Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th edition Text copyright © 2010 by Lennard Zinn Illustrations copyright © 2010 by VeloPress
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Cover and interior design by Erin Johnson Composition by Erin Johnson and Jessica Xavier Cover photo by Brad Kaminski; bike built by Lennard Zinn Custom paint job on cover bike by Spectrum Powder Works, Colorado Springs, CO Title font Sign Production JNL; body text Caecilia Roman
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CONTENTS A Tip of the Helmet to . . . Introduction
ix xiii
Chapters 1
Tools
2
Basic Stuff: Preride inspection, wheel removal, and general cleaning
15
Emergency Repairs: How to get home when something big breaks or you get lost or hurt
33
4
Chains
51
5
Transmission: Front and rear derailleurs, cables, and shifters
71
Wheels: Tires, rims and spokes, hubs, cassettes, and freewheels
111
7
Brakes: Cables, levers, and calipers
147
8
Cranksets
195
9
Pedals
225
10
Saddles and Seatposts
243
11
Handlebars, Stems, and Headsets
257
12
Wheelbuilding
291
13
Forks
311
14
Frames
347
3
6
1
Appendixes A
Troubleshooting Index
371
B
Gear Development
377
C
Mountain Bike Fitting
383
D
Torque Table
393
Glossary
409
Bibliography
421
Index
423
Illustration Index
433
About the Author and Illustrator
437
Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
INTRODUCTION
Peace of mind isn’t at all superficial, really. It’s the whole thing. That which produces it is good maintenance; that which disturbs it is poor maintenance. What we call workability of the machine is just an objectification of this peace of mind. The ultimate test’s always your own serenity. If you don’t have this when you start and maintain it while you’re working, you’re likely to build your personal problems right into the machine itself. —Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
ABOUT THIS BOOK
ticular way, and to have one without the other
This book is intended for people who have an
would be missing out on half the fun.
interest in maintaining their own mountain
The romantic can appreciate how success at
bikes. I have written it for mountain bike owners
bike mechanics requires that the procedures be
who do not think they’re capable of maintain-
done with love, without which the care you imag-
ing their own bikes, as well as for those who do
ined putting into your mountain bike would be
and who want the how-to details at their finger-
lost. And even the pure romantic can follow the
tips. In Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance,
simple step-by-step procedures and “exploded”
Robert Pirsig explores the dichotomy between
diagrams in this book (of which Fig. I.1 is an
the purely classical and purely romantic views
extreme example and is the only one not intended
of the world, a dichotomy that also applies to
to be simple and clear!) and discover a passion for
mountain biking. Riding a mountain bike is
spreading new grease on old parts.
generally a romantic experience of emotion,
Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance is
inspiration, and intuition, even when solving the
organized in such a way that you can pick main-
complex physics of how to negotiate a technical
tenance tasks appropriate for you. The repairs in
section of trail without putting your foot down.
these pages require no special skills to perform;
Mountain bike mechanics, however, is a purely
anyone can do them. It takes only a willingness
classical structure of underlying form dominated
to learn.
by reason and physical laws. The two practices—
Mountain bikes are admirably resilient mach-
bike riding and bike maintenance—fit eloquently
ines. You can keep one running a long time just
together. Each is designed to function in a par-
by changing the tires and occasionally lubricating
Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
xiii
xiv
the chain. Chapter 2 is about the most minimal
my bike that I do not understand well enough to
maintenance your bike requires. Even if that is
know whether it is likely to last the ride or how to
the only part of this book you end up using, you’ll
fix it if it does not.
have gotten your money’s worth by avoiding some unpleasant experiences out on the trail.
There is an aspect of bicycle mechanics that can be extremely enjoyable in and of itself,
This book was originally intended for home
almost independent of riding the bike. Bicycles
enthusiasts, not shop mechanics. For that reason,
are the epitome of elegant simplicity. Bicycle
I have not included the long and precise lists of
parts, particularly high-end components, are
parts specifications that a shop mechanic might
meant to work well and last a long time. With the
need. Nonetheless, when combined with a speci-
proper attention, they can shine both in appear-
fication manual, this book can be a useful, easy-
ance and in performance for years to come.
to-follow reference for shop mechanics, too.
There is real satisfaction in dismantling a filthy part that is not functioning well, cleaning it up,
WHY DO IT YOURSELF?
lubricating it with fresh grease, and reassembling
There are a number of reasons why you would
it so that it works like new again. Knowing that
want to maintain your own mountain bike.
I made those parts work so smoothly—and that I
Obviously, if done right, it is a lot cheaper to do
can do it again when they get dirty or worn—is
yourself than to pay someone else to do it. This is
rewarding. I am eager to ride hard to see how
certainly an important factor for those riders who
they hold up rather than being reluctant to ride
live to ride and have no visible means of support.
for fear of breaking something.
Self-maintenance is a necessity for that crew.
Also, if you share my stubborn unwillingness
As your income goes up and the time available
to throw something out and buy a replacement
to maintain your bike goes down, this becomes
simply because it has quit working—be it a leaky
less and less true. If you’re a well-paid profes-
Waterpik; a torn tent; a duffle bag with a broken
sional with limited free time, it probably does
zipper; or an old car, dishwasher, clock, or chain-
not make as much economic sense to maintain
saw that is no longer running well—then this
your own bike. Yet you may find that you enjoy
book is for you. It is satisfying to keep an old piece
working on your bike for reasons other than
of equipment running long past its time, and it’s a
just saving money. Unless you have a mechanic
great learning experience!
whom you trust and to whom you take your bike
There is also something very liberating about
regularly, you are not likely to find anyone else
going on a long ride and knowing that you can
who cares as much about your bicycle’s smooth
fix just about anything that might go wrong with
operation and cleanliness as you do. You may also
your bike out on the trail. Armed with this knowl-
need your bike fixed faster than a local shop can
edge (which begins with learning to identify the
do during its busy season. And you need to be
parts of a mountain bike, shown in Fig. I.2) and
able to fix mechanical breakdowns that occur on
the tools to put it into action, you will have more
the trail.
confidence to explore new areas and to go farther
It is a given: Breakdowns will happen, even
than you might have otherwise.
if you have the world’s best mechanic working
To illustrate, an experience from way back in
on your bike. For this reason, it takes away from
1995 comes to mind, when I took a day to ride
my enjoyment of a ride if I have something on
the entire 110-mile White Rim Trail loop in Utah’s
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
Canyonlands National Park. It is as desolate as
possible. Exploded diagrams are purposefully
you can imagine out there, and I was completely
used instead of photographs to show more clearly
alone with the sky, the sun, and the rocks for long
how each part goes together. The first time you
stretches. I had a good mileage base in my legs, so
go through a procedure, you may find it easier to
I knew I was physically capable of doing the ride
have a friend read the instructions out loud as you
during the limited daylight hours of late October.
perform the steps.
I had checked, replaced, or adjusted practically
Obviously, some maintenance tasks are more
every part of my bike in the days before the ride.
complicated than others. I am convinced that
I had also tried out the bike on long rides close to
anyone with an opposable thumb can perform
town. Finally, I added to my saddlebag tool kit a
virtually any repair on a bike. Still, it pays to spend
few tools that I do not ordinarily carry.
some time getting familiar with the really simple
I knew that there was very little chance of
tasks, such as fixing a flat, before throwing your-
anything going wrong with my bike, and with the
self into complex jobs, such as building a wheel.
tools I had, I could fix almost anything short of a broken frame on the trail. Armed with this knowledge and experience, I really enjoyed the ride! I stopped and gawked at almost every breathtaking vista, vertical box canyon, colorful balanced rock, or windblown arch. I took scenic detours. I knew that I had a good cushion of safety, so I
xv
e LEVEL 1 e e LEVEL 2 e e e LEVEL 3
could totally immerse myself in the pleasure of
Tasks and tools required are divided into
the ride. I had no nagging fear of something going
three levels indicating their complexity or your
wrong to dilute the experience.
proficiency. Level 1 tasks need level 1 tools and
Confidence in your mechanical ability allows
require of you only an eagerness to learn. Level 2
you to be more courageous about what you will try
and level 3 tasks also have corresponding tool sets
on trails. And armed with this confidence you’ll
and are progressively more difficult. All repairs
be more willing to share your love of the sport
mentioned in this book are classified as level 1
with less experienced riders. Bringing new people
unless otherwise indicated. Tools are shown in
along on rides is a lot more fun if you know that
Chapter 1. The section at the end of Chapter 2,
you can fix their bikes and they won’t be stranded
“Performing Mechanical Work: A General Guide”
with an old junker that won’t roll.
(§ii-17), is a must-read; it states general policies and approaches that apply to all mechanical work. Each chapter starts with a list of required tools
Skim through the entire book. Skip the detailed
in the margin. If a section involves a higher level
steps, but look at the exploded diagrams and get
of work, there will be an icon designating the level
the general flavor of the book and what’s inside.
and tools necessary to perform the tasks in that
When it is time to perform a particular task,
section. Tasks and illustrations are numbered for
you’ll know where to find it, and you’ll have a
easy reference. Section references use the sym-
basic idea of how to approach it.
bol “§.” For instance, “§iii-6” means “see Section
Illustrator Todd Telander and I have done our best to make these pages as understandable as
iii-6 in Chapter 3.” Illustrations are referred to as “Figures,” for instance, “Fig. 3.3.”
INTRODUCTION Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
I NT R O D UC TI O N
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
xx
and 650B (27.5-inch) tires and wheels are gaining
your bike will transform itself from a mysterious
favor, particularly for tall riders. Smaller 24-inch
contraption seemingly too complicated to tamper
wheels and tires are found on small mountain bikes.
with to a simple, very understandable machine
Tire widths and shapes vary and include everything
that can be a genuine delight to work on. Just
from studded snow tires to smooth street tires. This
allow yourself the opportunity and the dignity to
book also covers “hybrid” bikes (Fig. I.5), which are a
follow along, rather than deciding in advance that
cross between road bikes and mountain bikes.
you will never be able to do this. All you have to
No matter how a mountain bike is configured,
do is follow the instructions and trust yourself.
even those who see themselves as having no
So, set aside your self-image as someone who
mechanical skills will be able to tackle problems
is “not mechanically oriented” (and any other fac-
as they arise if they study the steps necessary
tors that may stand in the way of your making
to properly maintain and repair their bike. With
your mountain bike ride like a dream), and let’s
a little bit of practice and a willingness to learn,
start playing with your bike!
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
TOOLS
1
Behold, we lay a tool here and on the morrow it is gone. —The Book of Mormon
Y
ou can’t do much work on a bike without
expensive), and they ensure that your riding bud-
tools. Still, it’s not always clear exactly which
dies will show up not only to ask your sage advice,
tools to buy. This chapter clarifies the tools you should consider owning on the basis of your level of mechanical experience and interest.
but also to borrow your tools. And if you really want to go all out and be set up like a pro (and even have mechanics wanting
As I mentioned in the Introduction, the main-
to borrow your tools), you can splurge on the set
tenance and repair procedures in this book are
shown in Figure 1.4. If you loan tools, you might
classified by their degree of difficulty. Nearly all the
consider marking your collection to help recover
repairs in this book are classified as level 1, unless
those items that might otherwise take a long
otherwise indicated. The tools for levels 1, 2, and 3
time finding their way back to your workshop.
are pictured and described in the following pages.
It wouldn’t hurt writing down the details about
Lists of the tools needed in each chapter are shown
which tool you lent to whom and on what date.
in the margin at the beginning of each chapter.
You would be surprised how easy it is to forget
For the uninitiated, there is no need to rush out and buy a large number of bike-specific tools.
who has one of your seldom-used tools such as snapring pliers or a metric tap.
With only a few exceptions, the Level 1 Tool Kit
i-1
(Fig. 1.1A) consists of standard metric tools. This kit is similar to the collection of tools I recommend later in this chapter to carry with you on
LEVEL 1 TOOL KIT
rides, though in a more compact and lightweight
e LEVEL 1
form (Figs. 1.5–6). The Level 2 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.2)
Level 1 repairs are the simplest and do not
contains several bike-specific tools, allowing you
require a workshop, although it is nice to have a
to do more complex work on the bike. The tools
good space to work. You will need the following
in the Level 3 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.3) are extensive (and
tools (Fig. 1.1A):
Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
1
2
• Tire pump with a gauge and a valve head
1.1A
Level 1 Tool Kit
to match your bike’s tubes (either Presta or Schrader valves—see Fig. 1.1B; most good pumps will fit both). A spare rubber valve-seal insert for the head is a good idea; these wear out. • Standard screwdrivers: small, medium, and
chain tool
large (one of each).
tire levers
• Phillips-head screwdrivers: one small and one medium. • Set of three plastic tire levers (Figs. 6.5–6). • At least two spare tubes of the same size and
15mm pedal wrench
valve type as those on your bike. • Container of regular talcum powder. It works well for coating tubes and the inner casings of tires. Do not inhale this stuff; it’s bad for the lungs.
grease
• Patch kit. Choose one that comes with sandpaper instead of a metal scratcher and patches with soft orange rubber backing to the black rubber (Fig. 6.11). At least every year and a half,
chain lube
check that the glue has not dried up, regardless of whether the tube has been opened or
spare tube
not. On rides, you might as well take a little packet of glueless patches; they don’t work as well as standard patches, but if the glue has dried up, you’ll be glad you have them. • One 6-inch adjustable wrench (aka “Crescent wrench”).
plenty of rags patch kit
• Pliers: regular and needle-nose. • Set of metric hex keys (aka “Allen wrenches” or “hex wrenches”) that includes 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm sizes.
modern shock pump
Folding sets are available and work nicely to keep your wrenches organized but are not strong enough or long enough in the big sizes (6mm and up); big bolts require more leverage.
• 15mm pedal wrench. This is thinner and lon-
I also recommend buying extras of the 4mm,
ger than a standard 15mm wrench and thicker
5mm, 6mm, and 8mm sizes.
than a cone wrench (Fig. 9.3). Your bike’s ped-
• Set of metric open-end/box-end wrenches that includes 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, and 17mm sizes.
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
als may accept only a 6mm or 8mm hex key (Fig. 9.4), so you may not need this tool. • Chain tool for disconnecting and reconnecting
3 chain-elongation gauge
spoke wrench noggin standard and Phillipshead screwdrivers
tire pump with gauge
talcum powder
6" adjustable wrench
rubbing alcohol
pliers talc
rubbing alcohol
metric hex keys
folding metric hex keys
Schrader valve adapter for old Marzocchi and RockShox forks
metric open-end/box-end wrenches needle-nose pliers
1.1B chains (Figs. 4.10–11). Older chain tools may
Valve types
Presta
be too wide for the narrow chains on newer bikes; read the Pro Tip in Chapter 4 before buying one.
Schrader
tion of the chain (Figs. 4.5–6).
CHAPTER 1 Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
T O O LS
• Chain-elongation gauge to monitor the condi-
4
• Spoke wrench to match the size of nipples
1.2
Level 2 Tool Kit
used on your bike’s wheels. • Tube or jar of grease. I recommend using
ball-peen hammer
grease designed specifically for bicycles; however, standard automotive grease is okay, except in suspension forks and twist shifters.
portable bike stand
• Drip bottle or can of chain lubricant (Fig. 4.1). Please choose a nonaerosol; it is easier to control, uses less packaging, and wastes less in overspray. • Rubbing alcohol for cleaning disc-brake pads, rotors, shocks, and internal parts and for removing and installing handlebar grips. • A lot of rags!
Channel-lock pliers
splined pedalspindle removal tool
Other useful items: • If you have an air-sprung suspension fork or rear shock, you need a shock pump. Get one with a no-leak head if the front or rear shock
snapring pliers
has standard Schrader valves (Fig. 13.10), and get the adapter you need if your bike’s fork requires either a ball needle or a special adapter to insert down inside a sunken Schrader valve.
i-2 LEVEL 2 TOOL KIT
e e L E V EL 2 Level 2 repairs are a bit more complex, and I recommend that you create a well-organized workspace with a shop bench. Keeping your workspace organized is probably the best way to make
rubber gloves duct tape
maintenance and repair easy and quick. You will need the entire Level 1 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.1A) plus the following tools (Fig. 1.2):
tire pressure gauge
% Portable bike stand. Be sure that the stand is sturdy enough to remain stable when you’re really cranking on the wrenches. If for some reason you can’t clamp your bike’s seatpost, you will need a bike stand that holds the bike by the bottom bracket and the front or rear end with one wheel out; see the one in Figure 1.4.
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
sound system
4
CHAINS A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. —Anonymous A sausage is only as good as its last link.
TOOLS
—Bluto
chain lubricant 12-inch ruler chain tool lots of rags
A
bike chain is a simple series of links connected
fancy about it, you can assess the type of condi-
by rivets. Rollers surround each rivet between
tions in which you ride and choose a lubricant
the link plates and engage the teeth of the cogs
intended for those conditions. Some lubricants
and chainrings. It is an extremely efficient method
are dry and pick up less dirt in dry conditions.
of transmitting mechanical energy from the ped-
Some are sticky and therefore less likely to
als to the rear wheel. In terms of weight, cost, and
wash off in wet conditions. Still others claim to
efficiency, the bicycle chain has no equal, and—
be “metal conditioners” that actually penetrate
believe me—people have tried without success to
and alter the surface of the metal. One of these,
improve on it for years.
ProGold’s ProLink, gives me longer chain life in all
rubber gloves
OPTIONAL chain-elongation indicator master link pliers solvent (citrus based)
To keep your bike running smoothly, you have
riding conditions, with daily use, than anything
self-contained chain cleaner
to take care of the chain. It needs to be kept clean
else I have tried, so that’s what I use. I’m not say-
old water bottle
and well lubricated in order to transmit your
ing that there aren’t other equally good products,
caliper
energy efficiently and shift smoothly. Chains need
but by recommending one that I know is good,
pliers
to be replaced frequently to prolong the working
I can cut down on the e-mails asking me what
solvent tank
life of other, more expensive, drivetrain compo-
chain lube I suggest.
Rohloff cog-wear indicator
nents because a chain gets longer as its internal
Chain lubes generally come in spray cans and
parts wear, thus contacting the gear teeth differ-
in squeeze bottles. Sprays should be avoided for
ently than intended.
regular maintenance chores because they tend to spew too much oil over everything, includ-
CHAIN SERVICE AND ASSEMBLY
ing in the air where you can inhale the lube. The chain needs oil only between contacting parts.
iv-1
On the outside, a thin film is sufficient to keep
LUBRICATING THE CHAIN
corrosion at bay; more than that will only attract
When lubricating the chain, use a lubricant
dirt and gunk without improving the function of
intended for bicycle chains. If you want to get
the chain.
Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
51
52
4.1
Lubing the chain
2. Wipe the chain off lightly with a rag. In wet conditions, expect to use more lubricant (after every ride or even during a long, rainy ride).
iv-2 CLEANING THE CHAIN BY FREQUENT WIPING AND LUBRICATION Cleaning the chain can be accomplished in a number of ways. The simplest method to maintain a chain is to wipe it down frequently, lubricate it, and then wipe off the excess lube. If 1. Drip a small amount of lubricant across each
you do this procedure before every ride, you will
roller (Fig. 4.1). Periodically move the chain so
never need to clean the chain with a solvent.
that you can easily access the links you are
The lubricant softens the old sludge buildup,
working on. To speed the process, turn the
which is driven out of the chain when you
crank slowly while dripping lubricant onto
ride. Of course, the lubricant also picks up new
the chain as it goes by. Yes, this method will
dirt and grime, but if you wipe them off before
cause you to apply excess lubricant, which
they’re driven deep into the chain and relubri-
will pick up more dirt. But overlubricating is
cate the chain frequently, it will stay clean and
far preferable to not lubricating, and if you
supple. Chain cleaning can be performed as fol-
wipe and lube the chain after each ride or
lows with the bike standing on the ground or in
two, it won’t build up excessive grime.
a bike stand:
4.2
Wiping the chain with a rag
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
4.3
Wiping the jockey wheels with a rag
4.4
Using a solvent-bath chain cleaner
53
1. Grab the chain with a rag. Grasp the lower
made of clear plastic and have two or three
length of the chain (between the bottom of
rotating brushes that scrub the chain as it moves
the chainring and the rear-derailleur lower
through the solvent bath (Fig. 4.4). The units offer
jockey wheel).
the advantage of letting you clean the chain
2. Turn the crank backward a number of revo-
without removing it from the bike. Regularly
lutions. Pull the chain through the rag (Fig.
removing the chain shortens any chain’s life;
4.2). Periodically rotate the rag to present a
moreover, with 9- or 10-speed chains unless you
cleaner section of it to the chain.
use a master link, you may find that the chain
3. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1. To encourage regular care, leave a pair of rub-
breaks under high load, thereby driving your foot, and perhaps your entire body, into the ground.
ber gloves, a rag, and some chain lube next to your
Most chain-cleaning units come with a non-
bike. Then, whenever you return from a ride, put on
toxic, citrus-based solvent. For your safety, and
the gloves, wipe and lube the chain, and put your
other environmental reasons, I strongly recom-
bike away. It takes maybe a minute, your hands
mend that you purchase nontoxic citrus solvents
stay clean, and your bike is ready for the next ride.
for the chain-cleaning unit, even if it already
If you can find time to take a shower after you ride,
comes with a petroleum-based solvent. If you
you can find time for this. Wipe the chainrings,
recycle used diesel fuel, then go ahead and use it.
cogs, front derailleur, and jockey wheels (Fig. 4.3)
In any case, wear gloves and glasses when using
while you’re at it, and the entire drivetrain will
any solvent. Citrus chain solvents often contain some
always work ideally.
lubricants, so they won’t dry the chain out. The combination of lubricant and solvent is why diesel
USING CHAIN-CLEANING UNITS
fuel has had such a following as a chain cleaner.
Several companies make chain-cleaning units
A really strong solvent without lubricant (acetone,
that scrub the chain with a solvent while it is
for example) will displace the oil from inside the
on the bike. These chain cleaners are generally
rollers. The solvent will later evaporate, leaving a
CHAPTER 4 Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
C H AI NS
iv-3
54
dry, squeaking chain that is hard to rehabilitate.
supplies special “subpins” for reassembly of its
The same can happen with a citrus-based solvent
chains that are meant to prevent this problem,
that does not include a lubricant if no lubricant is
but the chain is still not as strong there as if you
separately applied, especially if the chain is not
had left the original pin in place.
allowed to dry long enough. The procedure for using a chain-cleaning unit is straightforward: 1. Remove the top and pour in the solvent up
A hand-opened master link can avoid the problem of repeatedly opening and reassembling the chain. Master links are standard on SRAM, Wippermann, Taya, and KMC chains. An after-
to the fill line. 2. Place the chain-cleaning unit up against the
market master link, like Lickton’s SuperLink, can
bottom of the chain. Reinstall the top so that
also be installed into any chain so long as you
the chain runs through it (Fig. 4.4).
make sure that the master link is the right width.
3. Turn the bike’s crank backward. Run the
If you do disassemble the chain (see §iv-7
chain through the unit’s brushes until it is
or §iv-11 for instructions), you can clean it well,
clean.
even without a solvent tank. Just drop the chain
4. Remove the unit from the chain.
into an old jar or water bottle half filled with sol-
5. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1.
vent. Using an old water bottle or jar allows you
6. Let the solvent settle, decant the clear por-
to clean the chain without touching or breathing
tion, and discard the sludge.
the solvent—something to be avoided even when you are using citrus solvents.
iv-4 REMOVING AND CLEANING THE CHAIN
The procedure for cleaning the chain without using a chain-cleaning unit could not be simpler:
e L E V EL 1
1. Remove the chain from the bike (§iv-7 or
You can also clean the chain by removing it from
2. Drop it in a water bottle or jar.
the bicycle and cleaning it in a solvent. I do not
3. Pour in enough solvent to cover the chain.
recommend this procedure unless the chain has
4. Shake the bottle vigorously. Keep it low to
a master link, because repeatedly disassembling
the ground in case the top pops off or the jar
the chain by pushing rivets in and out weakens it.
breaks.
Mountain bike chains are prone to breakage because of the conditions in which they are used, but chain breakage is even more of an issue because of the narrow width of 9- and 10-speed
§iv-11).
5. Hang the chain to air-dry. 6. Reassemble it on the bike (see §iv-8 to §iv-11). 7. Lubricate it as in §iv-1.
chains. A chain that breaks during riding gener-
Whatever you do, don’t leave the chain to
ally does so when you shift the front derailleur
soak for extended periods in citrus-based sol-
while pedaling hard. This technique can pry a
vents, because these are water based and will
link plate open so that the head of a rivet pops
cause the chain to oxidize (rust), making it move
out of the plate, tearing the chain apart. Chain
with more friction and be more prone to break-
disassembly and reassembly expand the size of
age. (Some people believe in having two chains
the rivet hole where you put the chain together,
they rotate on and off the bike, leaving one soak-
allowing the rivet to pop out more easily. Shimano
ing in solvent while the other one is on the bike.
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
Although this would work with diesel fuel as the
1,000 miles, especially for bikes ridden in dirty
solvent, it won’t work with water-based solvents.
conditions by a large rider. Lighter riders riding
In any case, you gain nothing by soaking the chain
mostly on paved roads can often extend replace-
for extended periods, so just don’t do it.)
ment time to more than 2,000 miles.
55
After removing the chain, allow the solvent
iv-6
in the bottle or jar to settle for a few days so that you can decant the clear stuff and use it again. I’ll say this throughout the book: Use a citrus-based
CHECKING FOR CHAIN ELONGATION
solvent. It is not only safer for the environment;
e LEVEL 1
it is also gentler on your skin and less harmful
a. Chain-elongation gauges
to breathe. Wear rubber gloves when working
The simplest accurate method for checking chain
with any solvent, and use a respirator meant for
elongation is to use a gauge. Make sure you check a
volatile organic compounds if you are not using
number of spots on the chain; you’ll find variation.
a citrus-based solvent. There is no sense in fixing
The Rohloff gauge (Fig. 4.5) is simple, quick,
your bike to go faster if you end up becoming a
and reliable. It’s a go/no-go gauge. Brace the hook
slow, sickly bike rider.
end against a chain roller, and if the opposing curved tooth falls completely into the chain so
iv-5 REPLACING THE CHAIN
e
that the length of the tool’s body contacts it, the chain is shot. If the chain is still in good shape, the curved tooth will not go all of the way in. The tooth
LE VE L 1
marked “S” is for checking a chain running strictly
As the rollers, pins, and plates wear out, the
on steel rear cogs, and the tooth marked “A” is for
chain lengthens. That, in turn, hastens the wear
checking aluminum and titanium cogs, but I use
and tear on other drivetrain parts. An elongated
just the A side. I find that if the A edge comes down
chain concentrates the load on each individual
to the chain and I replace it right then, I get almost
gear tooth, rather than distributing it over all of
infinite life out of my chainrings and cogs, even
the teeth that the chain is wrapped around, and
titanium ones. That’s worth it to me.
as a result the gear teeth become hook-shaped
The ProGold chain gauge (Fig. 4.6) is also quick
and the tooth valleys become wider. If such wear
and accurate. Brace the hooked end against a
has already occurred, a new chain will not solve
chain roller, and let the long tooth drop into the
the problem. A new chain will not mesh properly with deformed teeth, and it is likely to skip whenever you pedal hard. So before all of that extra wear and tear hits your pocketbook, get in the habit of checking the chain on a regular basis
4.5
Checking chain wear with the Rohloff gauge. If the curved tooth with the S (steel cogs) falls completely into the chain, replace the chain (A is for aluminum cogs).
(§iv-6) and replacing it as needed. How long it takes for the chain to wear out will vary, depending on chain type, maintenance, riding conditions, and strength and weight of the
CHAPTER 4 Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
C H AI NS
rider. Figure on replacing the chain every 500 to
198
“Square taper,” “Octalink,” and “ISIS” are three
tighten the push bolt, and you will damage
different bottom-bracket and crankarm interface
the threads. Future crank removal depends
standards. Square-taper bottom-bracket spindles are
on those threads being in good condition.
square on the end (Figs. 8.1, 8.18, 8.21–23) and fit into
5. Tighten the push bolt clockwise (Fig. 8.6)
a square hole in the crankarm. The spindle ends are
until the crankarm pulls off the spindle. Use
tapered (at a 2-degree angle) to tighten into the crank
a socket wrench or the included handle.
as the arm is pushed into the spindle. ISIS (Fig. 8.19)
6. Unscrew the puller from the crankarm.
and Shimano Octalink (Fig. 8.20) are both oversized hollow spindles (aka “pipe spindles”) with longitudinal
Installation
splines on the ends.
a. Integrated-spindle cranks with two pinch bolts on the left arm
3. Unscrew the crank puller’s (Fig. 8.6) center push bolt so that its tip is flush with the
e LEVEL 1
face of the tool. Make sure the flat end of the push bolt is the right size for the bottom
1. Grease the spindle tip and the bore of each
bracket; the push bolt end is much smaller
bearing.
for a square-taper spindle than for an ISIS or
2. Push the spindle (which is attached to the
a Shimano Octalink splined spindle.
right crankarm) in through the bearings from the drive side.
4. Thread the crank puller into the hole in the crankarm. Be sure that you thread it in (by
3. Slide the left arm onto the end of the spindle.
hand) as far as it can go; otherwise, you will
Check that the crank is at 180 degrees from
not engage sufficient crank threads when you
the right arm.
8.5 Removing and installing a Shimano 2007–2010 XTR FC-M970 crankset
spacer
spindle
right bearing cup
spacer
left bearing cup
spindle cover with O-rings
left crankarm (Attention: left-hand thread!)
right crankarm
bolt TL-FC35 crankarm removal tool
TL-FC17 adjusting nut tool bolt washer retainer washer
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
adjusting nut
INDEX
Adjustable cups, 207, 215, 216, 221, 409 Air compressors, 11, 122, 154 Air pressure, 318, 320, 326–327 Air-sleeves, servicing, 353, 354, 355 Alignment tool, 10 Antiseize compound, 28, 200 Antitwist tool, 9 Automatic transmission fluid (ATF), 336, 337 Axle-clamp tool, 10 Axle nuts, 15, 20 Axles, 30, 212, 299, 409 checking, 19 cleaning, 130 removing, 129 replacing, 235 securing, 23–24 through-, 20–22, 23, 128 Ball bearings, 142, 174, 203, 204, 207, 218, 231, 234, 358, 359, 360, 361, 409 angular-contact, 272, 277, 278, 279, 281 ceramic, 136, 217, 219 cleaning, 130–131, 133, 221, 237, 277, 280 loose, 278, 279 lubricating, 131, 132, 281, 286 orienting, 218–219, 278 overtightening, 272 press-in, 211, 279 replacing, 130, 131, 217–220, 277, 280, 282, 359–360 sealed, 416 standard, 280 steel, 136, 217 See also Cartridge bearings Bar ends, 153, 154, 287, 409 installing, 95–96, 255, 257 position of, 390–391 replacing, 95–96, 257, 258 Barrel adjusters, 77, 78, 88, 89, 90, 92, 93, 149, 151, 152, 153, 154,
166, 409 BBT-39 tool, 200, 212 Bearing cups, 207, 211, 212, 409 Bearing pullers, 211, 219–220 Bearing removers, 11 Belt drives, 64–66, 101 Bike dimensions, 385 Bike fitting, 383–391, 385–393 Bike stands, 4, 9 Blankets, 14, 48 Body measurements, 385–388 Bosses, 176, 180, 181, 183, 186, 188, 191, 194, 309 brake, 148, 150, 345, 348, 410 cantilever, 148, 311, 312, 313, 348, 350, 351, 411 disc-brake, 312, 313, 350, 351 Bottom-bracket cups, 30, 83, 213, 217, 223, 350 Bottom-bracket shells, 11, 58, 66, 81, 83, 207, 208, 209, 210, 212, 213, 214, 215, 216, 220, 222, 223, 252, 352, 387, 410 cleaning, 211, 212 full-carbon, 204 tapping, 350 unthreaded, 203 Bottom-bracket tools, 6 Bottom brackets, 65, 102, 108, 109, 110, 191, 195, 198, 203–216, 231, 345, 388, 409 adjusting, 201, 222, 223 BB30: 220 BB86: 204, 205, 206 BB90: 204, 206 BB92: 204–206, 210–211, 220 BB95: 204–206, 210–211, 219 cartridge, 212–213, 216, 220–221, 223–225 cup-and-cone, 213–216, 221, 222, 223 eccentric, 58, 66 external-bearing, 203, 205, 206, 209–210 height, 384, 386, 410
Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
installing, 83, 208–216, 221 integrated-spindle, 216, 217 ISIS, 198, 213 ISO, 206 noise in, 221–224 overhauling, 109, 216–221, 223 PF24: 205, 210–211, 220 PF30: 204, 220 Shimano, 207, 209, 213, 215 square-taper, 198, 203, 208 threaded, 206–207, 217–220, 350 threadless, 204, 210–212, 219 Box-cutter knife, 6 Brake boosters, 189, 194, 410 Brake hoses, 46, 164, 166, 173 installing, 189 Brake levers, 96, 152–155, 177, 184, 255 positioning, 152–154 removing, 96, 152–154, 258 shift cables and, 88 squeezing, 15, 163 Brake pads, 23, 42, 126, 164, 174, 299, 410 adjusting, 151, 177, 180, 181, 188–189, 193 checking, 15, 156 cleaning, 156 cottered, 155, 156, 157 disc, 155–157 offset of, 177–178, 182 removing, 166, 171 replacing, 166, 179–180, 181, 191, 192, 193 rims and, 40–41 spacing, 149, 158, 166 toeing in, 183, 191, 193–194 worn, 148, 150, 193 Brake reach, adjusting, 154–155 Brakes, 23, 24, 152, 154, 170–171, 173, 183, 185, 186, 410 bleeding, 168–170 checking, 15, 16, 22 curved-face, 183 cylindrical-arm, 183
423
424
cylindrical-clamp, 182 disconnecting, 328, 331 feel of, 184 Hayes, 157, 159, 168–170, 173 hub, 414 linkage, 148, 190, 194 mounting, 162-163 opening, 40–41 options for, 147–148 releasing, 16–17, 23, 148, 150 rim, 16, 149, 150, 301 rubbing, 370 Shimano, 88–89, 95, 167, 185 troubleshooting with, 192–194 See also Cantilever brakes; Disc brakes; Hydraulic brakes; Roller-cam brakes; U-brakes; V-brakes Braking, 291, 322 chattering/vibration when, 183, 369, 372, 374, 375 problems with, 369–370 Brushes, 24, 26 Buckets, 24 Bushings, 180, 181, 211, 231, 234, 330, 334, 335, 353, 354, 355, 356, 358, 361, 410 replacing, 359–360 Cable cutters, 6, 86 Cable stops, 348, 410 Cable tension, 72, 76–78, 107 adjusting, 71, 74, 85, 148–149, 151, 152, 186, 230–231, 396 Cables, 76, 97, 148–154, 178, 185, 190, 251, 311, 410 broken, 45–46 clamping, 40–41 Gore-Tex, 86, 94, 95, 178 installing, 22, 74, 92–93, 94, 150 loose, 40–41, 85 lubricating, 30, 94–95, 107, 149, 150 maintaining, 103, 149, 152, 192 replacing, 30, 85, 87–92, 149, 150, 152 shift, 80, 85, 88, 89–90 Shimano, 89–90 sticky, 68, 107 tying, 43 worn, 151, 193 Calipers, 11, 41, 150, 156, 163, 170, 313, 410 cleaning, 171–173 disc-brake, 31, 161, 162, 173–174
hydraulic, 156, 171–173 measuring, 415 mounting, 161–162 overhauling, 173–174 postmount, 163 Cantilever brakes, 16, 22, 31, 41, 147–148, 149, 150, 151, 175–180, 411 curved-face, 183 overhauling, 180–187 sidepull, 417 Cantilevers, 147, 148, 150, 151, 152, 194, 417 Carbon-grip compound, 9 Cartridge bearings, 103, 133–136, 208, 219, 231, 276, 279, 280, 286, 358, 359, 411 angular-contact, 277, 278, 281 cleaning, 133–134 lubricating, 31 See also Ball bearings Cartridge-removal tool, 340 Cartridges, 208, 352 air inflation, 35 Centering, 126, 178–179, 301–303 Chain cleaners, 26, 53–54 Chain elongation, checking for, 55–56, 67, 69 Chain-elongation gauges, 3, 55–56, 69 Chain gap, 78–79 Chain keepers, 7 Chain length, determining, 57–59, 73 Chain links, 411 loosening, 67 replacing, 38, 56, 60 spacing between, 66 spare, 13 tight/stiff, 66, 67 twisted, 36–38 Chain retention devices, 100–101 Chain stops, 110 Chain suck, 66–67, 107, 201, 370, 411 Chain tensioner, 101 Chain tools, 2–3, 12, 33, 38, 42, 56, 59, 61, 62 Chain whips, 6, 7, 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 411 Chainlines, 85, 107–108, 224, 411 measuring, 108–110 Chainring bolts, 195, 201, 202, 222 Chainring-cassette removal tools, 6 Chainring-nut tools, 6, 202, 411 Chainrings, 27, 37, 42–45, 51, 53, 55, 57, 58, 60, 64, 65, 195, 197–202,
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
216, 411 bent, 201 chainstays and, 223–225 cleaning, 26, 66, 200 inner, 109, 223 inspecting, 66, 200–201 installing, 66, 202 jammed chains and, 36 loose, 221 maintaining, 200 middle, 10 spindles and, 209 worn, 200 Chains, 411 assembling, 51–52 broken, 38, 54, 56, 57, 59 cleaning, 26–27, 52–55, 66 connecting, 57, 59–61 dropping, 110, 370 jammed, 15, 36–38, 370 lubricating, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30, 51–54, 66, 67, 74, 105, 254 maintaining, 152 measuring, 140 removing, 27, 44, 45, 54–57, 63 replacing, 55, 62, 67, 68, 74, 150 Shimano, 26, 56, 59, 60–61, 62 skipping, 67, 107, 370 slapping, 370, 372 squeaking, 67 SRAM, 54, 56, 61, 62 troubleshooting, 66–69 with twisted link, 37–38 wiping, 25, 26, 27, 30, 52–53, 67 Wippermann, 37, 54, 56, 62, 67, 69 Chainstays, 23, 40, 43, 65, 66, 74, 81, 102, 103, 109, 159, 213, 349, 361, 367, 411 chain suck and, 67 chainrings and, 223–225 jammed chains and, 36 Circlips, 208, 211, 212, 220, 313, 327, 336 Clamps, 58, 81, 82, 83, 254, 255, 276 cylindrical, 182 saddle, 245, 246 seatpost, 31, 46, 253, 254 split, 153 See also Stem clamps Cleats, 226, 230 adjusting, 227–229, 240 installing, 227–229 loose, 239–240 Clunking noises, problems with, 222–223, 372
Cog-wear indicator gauge, 11 Cogs, 51, 55, 58, 64, 73, 74, 75, 77, 78, 79, 108, 111, 127, 137–146, 209, 411 cassette, 138–141 checking, 67–68 cleaning, 26, 53, 138, 139, 140 removing, 68, 102, 138, 139, 140, 145–146 replacing, 68, 139, 140, 141 worn, 67, 139, 140 Compression, 316, 357, 358, 361 Compression damping, 321–322, 362, 365, 366, 411 adjusting, 316, 323, 325, 364 Compression rings, 273, 276, 278 Concentric-pivot systems, 43, 65, 102 Cones, 6, 127, 128–133, 213–216, 221, 222, 223, 236, 237, 409, 411 Crank bolts, 195, 197, 199, 200, 222, 411 Crank extraction tools, 197 Crank pullers, 6, 195, 198 Crankarms, 84, 195, 197–202, 210, 211, 216, 217, 221, 225, 226, 227, 244, 363, 385, 411 length/determining, 388 loose, 222–223 removing/installing, 202, 212, 215, 218 Cranks custom, 388 hard-to-turn, 223 integrated-spindle, 195, 197, 198–199, 203, 204, 205 length, 390, 411 removing/installing, 195, 197–200 Shimano, 197, 199, 202, 207 square taper, 197, 199 troubleshooting, 221–224 Cranksets, 195, 210, 412 BB30: 204, 219 external-bearing, 207 lubricating, 31 three-piece, 197, 199, 203, 204, 207–209 Truvativ, 209, 210, 218, 219 two-piece, 203, 207 Creaking noises, 372 bottom bracket, 221–222 crank, 221–222 handlebar, 287 pedaling, 207, 239–240 seatpost, 254
Crowfoot sockets, 11, 412 Crown-race punches, 285 Crown-race removers, 11, 283, 284 Cup removal tools, 7 Cups, 412 adjustable, 207, 215, 216, 221, 409 bearing, 207, 211, 212, 409 bottom bracket, 30, 83, 213, 217, 223, 350 fixed, 214, 413 Damping, 318, 357, 412 adjusting, 325–326, 327, 334 changing oil and, 336–338, 355–356 compression, 316, 321–322, 323, 325, 362, 364, 365, 366, 411 hydraulic, 262, 309–310, 314 preload, 363–364 pressurizing, 358 rebound, 318, 320–321, 323, 325, 361, 362, 364, 365, 366, 416 Damping adjusters, 326, 327, 334, 365 Damping systems, 325, 336–338 Derailleur cages, 42, 68, 84, 107 Derailleur-hanger alignment tools, 11, 68, 349 Derailleurs, 23, 27, 47, 57, 71–80, 80–85, 209, 412 adjusting, 68, 71, 74–80, 83–85, 200 bent, 43, 68, 107 bottom-pull/top-pull, 82 broken, 71, 103 bypassing, 44 cables and, 82, 85, 92–94 chain length and, 57 disassembling, 88, 106 down-swing, 81 E-type, 81, 82–83, 209, 213, 223 installing, 73–74, 82–83 lubricating, 30, 105 maintaining, 26, 53, 103–106 positioning, 83, 84, 107 repairing, 42–44 replacing, 69, 79, 105, 106 Shimano, 45, 46, 71, 73, 74–75, 76, 77, 79, 82–83, 84, 87, 88, 92, 106, 107, 213 spokes and, 370, 372 SRAM, 78, 82, 87, 106, 107 top-swing, 81, 224 troubleshooting, 107–110 worn, 67, 107
Disc-brake pads, checking/replacing, 155–157 Disc brakes, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148, 152, 155–164, 166–175, 192, 412 adjusting, 158–164, 166 cable-actuated, 155 installing, 158–164, 166 overhauling, 171–174 Dishing, 301–303, 349, 367, 412 Dishing tools, 7, 301, 302, 412 Drills, 11 Drivetrains, 60, 65, 74, 101, 107, 292, 412 cleaning, 24–26 wear/tear on, 55 Dropout-alignment tools, 11, 341– 343, 342, 344, 367–368 Dropout Saver, 351 Dropouts, 18, 20, 23, 24, 65, 66, 71, 73, 78, 102, 109, 128, 309, 311, 349, 412 aligning, 68, 342–343, 344, 366 aluminum/titanium, 368 bent, 80, 312, 344 bolt-on, 367 inspecting, 348 sliding, 58 spacing, 341, 342 thickness of, 351 Duct tape, 14 Dust caps, 144, 199, 200, 236, 237, 239, 412 Dust covers, 143, 237 Easy-outs, 354, 412 Elastomers, 249, 262, 309, 311, 314, 315, 318, 319, 324–326, 327, 331, 361, 412 End caps, 86, 152, 410, 412 Fasteners, torque for, 396–407 (table) Feeler gauges, 11 Files, 6 Firmly tightened, 29, 395 Foot pounds (ft-lbs), Newtonmeters and, 397 Fork braces, 311, 315 Fork-crown race punch, 7 Fork-crown race remover, 283 Fork-crown races, 281, 282–284, 285–286 Fork crowns, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313, 315, 413 clamping, 268
INDEX Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
425
426
fork legs and, 316, 327–328 Fork legs, 40, 309, 311, 315, 325 damaged, 313 fork crowns and, 316 removing, 327–328 telescoping, 310 Fork rake, 309, 413 Fork travel, 319 changing, 323, 338-339 measuring, 315–317 Forks, 16, 18, 115, 289, 310, 317, 413 air-sprung, 312, 326–327 alignment of, 312, 313, 314, 318, 341–344 aluminum, 314, 343 carbon-fiber, 314, 343 coil-spring, 311, 319, 324–326, 327 double-crown, 327, 328, 330 failure of, 311, 312 headset installation and, 284–285 high-end, 321, 331 inspecting, 311–313, 313–314 linkage, 312, 314 lubricating, 31, 314 maintaining, 313–314, 314–315 Manitou, 34, 159, 331 movement of, 321, 322 overhauling, 314, 330–331, 334–336 rebound damping and, 321 removing, 277, 280, 282, 330–331, 341 rigid, 309, 313–314, 344 RockShox, 326, 327, 328, 337, 338–339, 340, 357 SID, 326, 327, 337 single-crown, 327, 328 steel, 341, 344 stuck stems in, 287 suspension, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189, 263, 282, 284, 309, 310, 313, 314, 314–315, 317–324, 330, 384, 386 telescoping, 310, 312, 314 threaded, 265–266, 267, 312 titanium, 314, 343 triple-clamp, 327–328, 330 tuning, 314, 315, 317–327 upside-down, 419 Frame size body measurements and, 385–388 correct, 384–385 finding, 383, 386–387 Frames, 31, 208, 212, 289, 413
alignment of, 366–368 carbon, 347, 348 cleaning, 348 designing, 345, 347 diamond, 345, 412 headset installation and, 284–285 suspension, 101–102, 347, 358– 361, 368, 386, 389, 390 types of, 249, 347 Freehubs, 78, 134, 137–146, 413 disassembling, 144 lubricating, 142–146 overhauling, 111 removing, 144, 146 seized, 47 solvents and, 142, 144 Freewheel removers, 7, 141 Freewheels, 127, 137–146, 413 lubricating, 30, 146 maintaining, 111 replacing, 68, 111, 141 seized, 47 Front triangles, 345, 347, 349, 413 Gauges, 56, 57, 68 Gear development, 375–381 for 26-inch wheels, 376–378 (table) for 29-inch wheels, 381–383 (table) Gloves, 13, 55 Grease, 4, 13, 137, 201 molybdenum disulfide, 94 nonlithium, 6, 92, 97, 335 silicone-based, 6 Slick Honey, 251, 335, 355, 357, 359 Teflon, 92, 97 Grease guns, 6, 136, 142 Grip Shifts, 29, 78, 94, 95, 107, 258, 413 long/short, 97, 98 overhauling, 91–92 replacing, 96–97 Grips, 111, 255, 266 installing, 95–96, 257–258 removing, 95–96, 153, 257, 258 trimming, 258 Hacksaw, 6 Hammers ball-peen, 6, 7 soft, 7 Handlebar height, 385, 388, 389–390 adjusting, 266, 392
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
Handlebar position, 242, 244, 263, 266, 388–391 Handlebar reach, 384–385, 388, 390 Handlebar slips, 286–287 Handlebars, 251, 255, 257, 258–260, 273, 315, 325, 413 broken, 47, 260, 287 carbon, 154, 260, 393 drop, 384–385 installing, 258–259 knees and, 383, 384 maintaining, 16, 259–260 overtightened, 259, 393 replacing, 258, 259–260, 266 riser, 255, 391 saddles and, 390 troubleshooting, 286–287 twisting, 259, 266, 267 types of, 260, 266 undertightened, 393 Hangers, 13, 43, 69, 78, 80, 366, 410, 412 alignment of, 349–350 bent, 68, 107, 349–350 brake-cable, 271, 281 derailleur, 348, 349–350, 351 straddle-cable, 184 Head angles, 309, 413 Head tubes, 277, 278, 282, 284, 286, 367, 388, 413 measuring, 268, 270 Headlights, 14 Headset cups, 286 removing, 276, 282 Headset presses, 7, 11, 285–286 Headset rockets, 282 Headsets, 255, 263, 270–286, 312, 313, 413 adjusting, 265, 268, 272–276, 279, 282, 286, 287 cartridge-bearing, 272 cupless, 268, 277, 278, 282 installing, 284–286 integrated, 270, 271, 274, 278, 284, 414 loose-ball, 278, 281 loosening, 274–275 overhauling, 276–282 overtightening, 275 pitted, 275, 287 press-in internal with lipped cups, 268 replacing, 281, 282–284, 287 semi-integrated, 270 threaded, 273–276, 279–282, 418
threadless, 269, 270–272, 276– 279, 285, 387, 390 tight, 272–273, 274–275, 287 traditional, 168, 270 troubleshooting, 286–287 Hex keys, 12, 29, 47, 414 metric, 2, 7, 20, 40, 41, 42 HG-IG check tool, 68, 139 Hose cutters, 11 Housing, 76, 77, 82, 89, 90, 92, 148– 152, 185, 193, 273, 410 cutting, 11, 86, 153 friction and, 150 index-shift, 86 installing, 74, 87 lower-knuckle, 79 lubricating, 30, 85, 94–95, 151, 152 replacing, 30, 152 sticky, 68 Teflon-lined, 150, 151 Hubs, 102, 103, 127–137, 231, 306, 414 assembling, 131–132 cartridge-bearing, 127, 128, 132–136 cup-and-cone, 127, 128–133 DT Swiss, 28, 125, 133, 134, 142, 145 front, 127, 292 Grease Guard, 136–137 high-end, 128, 136 internal-gear, 101–103 lubricating, 131–132 overhauling, 111, 127–136 replacing/flipping, 141–142 sealed-bearing, 127, 128 wheelbuilding and, 289, 291, 292, 299 Hydraulic brakes, 42, 99, 107, 148, 150, 158, 166–173, 187–190, 192, 193, 194, 414 bleeding, 31, 166, 168, 170, 171, 189–190 disconnecting, 328 replacing pads on, 189 Hydraulic fluid, 158, 166, 167, 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 194 Hydraulic oil, 325 Inertial valves, 322, 325, 327, 365, 414 adjusting, 323, 364 Inner legs, 310, 314, 327, 334, 335, 336, 337, 339, 414 installing, 328, 330
Inner tubes, 114, 122, 123, 251 finding leaks in, 115–116 inflating, 35, 36 installing, 36, 118–120 patching, 36, 116 removing, 111–112 spare, 2, 12–13, 34–35 tying knots in, 35 International Organization for Standardization (ISO), 117, 159 Interrupted-seat-tube configurations, 387, 388 Jockey wheels, 27, 43, 58, 59, 68, 73, 74, 78, 80, 414 bolts, 106 cartridge-bearing, 104–105 lost, 44–45 maintaining, 68, 103–105 wiping, 26, 53 Knee clearance, 384 Lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299, 306 checking, 299, 307 radial, 304–305 three-cross, 304–305 Leaks finding, 115–116 sealing, 122, 123, 124 Leverage, 154–155, 166, 176, 177, 414 Levers, 89, 90, 150, 170, 173 lockout, 362, 364 Shimano, 87–88, 99–100, 107, 155 split-clamp, 153 SRAM, 87, 95, 97, 155 See also Brake levers; Quickrelease levers; Tire levers Lickton’s SuperLink, 61 Limit screws, 73, 107 adjusting, 46, 71, 74, 75–76, 78, 84, 85 Locknuts, 58, 133, 145, 146, 149, 152, 237, 271, 273, 275, 281, 414 loosening, 128–129, 132, 151, 274 removing, 236, 280 tightening, 132 Lockouts, 316, 362, 364, 414 Lockring tools, 6, 160 Lockrings, 78, 140, 160, 207, 213, 224, 414 adjustable-cup, 223 removing, 139, 221 tightening, 215–216 Loctite, 28, 68, 77, 136, 212, 222,
231, 313 Lubrication, 30–31, 128, 330 ball bearing, 31, 131, 132, 281, 286 cable, 30, 94–95, 107, 149, 150 chain, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30, 51–54, 66, 67, 74, 105, 254 crankset, 31 derailleur, 30, 105 fork, 31, 314 freehub, 142–146 freewheel, 30, 146 housing, 30, 85, 94–95, 151, 152 hub, 131–132 pedal, 31, 239–240 piston, 173, 190 quill, 281 saddle, 31 seatpost, 31, 254, 266, 348 shifters, 30 wheel, 30 Magnet, 7 Master cylinders, 173, 415 Master links, 13, 33, 42, 54, 57, 59–60, 61, 63–64, 67, 69, 415 Matches, 14, 48 Money, 14 patching sidewalls with, 36 Morningstar Drumstix tool, 175 Morningstar Freehub Buddy, 7, 142, 143, 144 Morningstar Freehub Soup, 142, 143, 144 Morningstar Rotors on Center (ROC) dial-indicator tool, 10, 174–175 Mounting bolts, 69, 105, 192, 415 Mounts broken, 348 disc-brake, 309, 351 IS, 159, 313 ISCG, 101 Multitools, 12, 38 Needle bearings, 279, 280, 415 Newton-meters (N-m), foot-pounds and, 397 Nipples, 124, 127, 290, 292, 293, 294, 307–308, 415 tightening/loosening, 125, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303 types of, 126, 291, 308 O-rings, 144, 158, 164, 172, 337, 354, 355, 357, 362–363 Off-center rims (OCR), 292, 293, 308
INDEX Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
427
428
Outer legs, 310, 312, 315, 323, 328, 330, 334, 415 Oversteering, 319, 322, 324 Overtightening, 259, 272, 275, 393 Pad spacers, 12, 190 Pad swing, 182 Pad-to-rim adjustment, 176–178, 187, 189, 192 Pad twist, 182 Parts washer, 7 Patch glue, 116 Patch kits, 2, 12, 34–35, 36, 116 Patches, 35, 36 applying, 116–118 Pedal overlap, 385, 415 Pedal platforms, 317, 321, 322, 325, 362 Pedaling, 308, 311, 317, 322 creaking with, 207, 375 knee/joint pain while, 240 resistance while, 58, 371 stance, 415 Pedals, 235, 415 cage-type, 225 cartridge-bearing, 238–239 clip-in, 225, 226, 227–231,234, 236, 240, 371, 411 clunking by, 371 Crank Brothers, 228, 229, 230, 234, 238, 239 flat, 225 installing, 226–227, 239 Look, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232–233, 234, 235, 238 loose-bearing, 31, 236–237, lubricating, 31, 239–240 Onza, 230–231, 238 overhauling, 231–232, 234–239 play in, 223, 371 release tension for, 227, 229–231, 371 removing, 226–227 Ritchey, 232, 235, 238, 239 Scott, 235 Shimano, 231, 232, 234, 235 Speedplay, 229, 231, 234, 235, 240 Time, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 234, 235, 238, 239, 240 troubleshooting, 239–240 Pedro’s Green Fizz, 24 Pedro’s Ice, 31 Pedro’s Syn Lube, 30 Phil Wood Tenacious Oil, 145 Pin spanners, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221,
415 Pistons, 166, 337, 338, 356, 358 cleaning, 172–173 disc-brake, 157–158 lubricating, 173 pushing back, 157–158 Pivot bolts, 415 Pivots, 154, 155, 194, 312, 313, 415 bushing, 31 derailleur, 69, 79 loose, 107 lubricating, 152, 190 maintaining, 106, 358–359 overhauling, 105 Pliers, 2, 14, 37 Channel-lock, 6 master-link, 7, 63, 64 snapring, 6 Vise-Grip, 63 Postmounts, 159, 161, 163, 309, 313, 351 PowerLink, 61, 63, 64 Preload, 319, 322, 324, 362, 363 Preload adjusters, 331, 362, 363–364 Press fit systems, 204, 205, 220 ProGold ProLink, lubricating with, 51, 67 Pulling, problems with, 369 Pumps, 2, 12, 35, 124 floor, 120 shock, 4, 12, 326 Punctures, 15, 16 fixing, 34–36 preventing, 33–34 snakebite, 34, 35, 120, 124 Quick-release (QR), 416 Quick-release (QR) levers, 148, 188 Quick-release (QR) seatpost binders, 248, 388 Quick-release (QR) skewers, 20, 22, 34, 45, 139, 142, 342 checking, 15 installing, 132 opening, 17–18 removing, 128, 141 tightening, 19 Quills, 265, 416 lubricating, 281 Race Face, 197, 199, 210, 416 Races, 127, 136, 409, 416 fork-crown, 281, 282–284, 285–286
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
Rags, 4 Rattling noises, 287 Really tight, 30, 396 Reamers, 11 Rear triangles, 43, 65, 102, 342, 345, 416 Rebound damping, 318, 320–321, 361, 362, 364, 416 adjusting, 321, 323, 325, 365, 366 Release tension adjustment, 227, 229–231, 240, 371 Ride height. See Sag Rim strips, 35, 118, 121 Rims, 16, 121, 149, 150, 416 bent, 41, 111 brake pads and, 40–41 cleaning, 192–193, 303 deep-section, 112 disc-brake, 301 drilling, 308 examining, 120 off-center, 292, 293, 308 replacing, 291 scraping, 125, 299, 300 spokes and, 124–127 tubeless, 293 wheelbuilding and, 289, 292, 294 Roller-cam brakes, 17, 150, 190, 191–192, 194, 416 Rotors, 127, 304 bent, 175 bolting, 160–161 cleaning, 193 installing/removing, 159–161 splined, 159, 160, 161 truing, 41–42, 174–175 Rubbing alcohol, 4, 257 Rubbing noises, problems with, 373 Saddle height, 240, 243, 248, 388 Saddle position, 242, 244, 246, 247, 253, 388–389 Saddles, 391, 416 adjusting, 243 choosing, 241–242 clamping, 245 handlebars and, 390 installing, 245–246, 247–248 lubricating, 31 maintaining, 242 shape/design of, 242 troubleshooting problems with, 253–254 Sag, 315, 319, 324, 361, 366, 416 measuring, 316–317, 318
setting, 362–363 Saw guide, 263 Scraping noises, problems with, 373 Screwdrivers, 12, 42, 43, 45, 46 bent-shaft spoke-nipple, 10 Phillips-head, 2 Sealants, 9, 16, 34, 35, 120, 122–124, 417 aerosol, 123 glycol-based, 122, 123 latex-based, 122 tubeless tires and, 121, 123–124 Seals, 173, 178, 216, 217, 328, 330, 356, 357, 359 bearing, 136, 277 cleaning, 354–355 installing, 278, 281 quad, 355 removing, 218, 355 square, 158, 355 Seat bags, 33, 42 Seat tubes, 45, 80, 82, 248, 249, 254, 367, 416 length of, 386, 387 Seatpost clamps, 31, 46, 253 lubricating, 254 Seatposts, 241, 243, 384, 389, 417 adjusting, 249–251 aluminum, 245, 252, 253, 254 broken, 47 carbon, 245, 251–252 Crank Brothers, 249, 250, 251, 388 extensions, 244 GravityDropper, 249, 250, 251, 388 height-adjustable, 249–251, 388 installing, 246, 248–249 lubricating, 31, 254, 348 maintaining, 244–245 Maverick, 249, 250, 251 position of, 244, 250 removing, 46, 244, 248, 251–253 single-bolt, 246 stuck, 251–253 suspension, 244–245, 249, 254 troubleshooting problems with, 253–254 two-bolt, 246, 247 Seatstays, 23, 65, 349, 367, 417 Setscrews, 29, 79, 98, 106, 133, 185, 186, 191, 248, 331, 349 Shifters, 92, 95–103, 255 adjusting, 74–80, 83–85 derailleurs and, 107 dual-lever trigger, 152 friction, 413
indexed, 76–78, 414 lubricating, 30 maintaining, 97–103 removing, 258 replacing, 90–91, 96 Shimano, 77, 88, 96, 177, 416 SRAM, 90–91, 95, 107 thumb, 87–88, 97, 100, 418 troubleshooting, 107–110 twist, 90–91, 96–97, 98, 99, 103, 153, 154, 419 Shifting, 371 adjusting, 73 checking, 16 optimizing, 78, 95 ramps, 200 Shimano Pedaling Dynamics (SPD), 226 Shimmying, 369 Shims, 78, 82, 163, 356, 417 Shocks, 310, 356, 358, 363 air, 361, 362 coil spring, 361 deflating, 353 downhill courses and, 365–366 elastomer, 361, 362 inspecting, 348–349 installing, 355 maintaining, 352, 353 removing, 353–354 saddle, 241 Shoes, 225, 228 Shop, well-stocked, 9–11 Shuddering, while braking, 183 Sidewalls, 114 patching, 36, 121, 122, 124 Skewers, 133, 135, 417 bolt-on, 18, 20 quick-release, 15, 17–18, 19, 20, 22, 34, 45, 128, 132, 139, 141, 142, 342 tightening, 19, 20 Slick Honey grease, 251, 335, 355, 357, 359 Slime, 34, 417 Snug, 29, 395 Solvents, 130 citrus, 53, 54, 55, 105, 135, 221, 277, 280 freehubs and, 142, 144 using, 26–27, 54 Spacers, 128, 132, 157, 159, 213, 263, 265, 274, 276, 278, 279, 315, 323, 417 adding, 209
internal, 339–340 removing, 129 Spacing, 66, 149, 166, 341, 342, 344, 349 brake pad, 158 crank-to-frame, 224 pad-to-rotor, 163 problems/remedying, 77–78 Spanners, 417 pin, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221, 415 toothed-lockring, 29 Spiders, 102, 201, 417 Spindle removal tool, 6 Spindles, 109, 210, 227 bottom-bracket, 66, 203, 209, 211–212, 223 chainrings and, 209 installing, 212 integrated, 195, 197, 198–199, 203, 204, 205, 216, 217 pedal, 6, 227 splined, 207 square-taper, 207 upgrading, 239 Splines, 29, 140, 141, 160, 207, 417 Spoke calculator, 290, 291 Spoke-prep compound, 291 Spoke tension, 10, 124, 292, 301 reducing, 308 Spoke-tension gauge, 10 Spokes, 76, 290, 417 adjusting, 39, 40, 127, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303 broken, 39–40, 41, 124, 126–127 converging parallel, 299 crossing, 299, 307 derailleurs hitting, 370 first set of, 293–294, 305 fourth set of, 297–299, 306 Kevlar, 40 lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299 length of, 290 prestressing, 302, 303 pulling, 293, 303, 308 radial, 308 replacing, 38–40, 126–127, 291 rims and, 124–127 second set of, 294–295, 305–306 spare, 13, 40 thickness, 290, 307–308 third set of, 296–297, 306 twisted, 125 weaving, 126–127 Spoking patterns, 308 one-cross, 289, 291, 306–307
INDEX Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
429
430
radial, 291, 293, 303–305 three-cross, 289, 291, 297, 304– 306, 418 two-cross, 289, 291, 306–307 Spring preload, 318, 319, 324, 363, 417 Spring rate, 318, 319, 320, 324, 362, 365 adjusting, 108, 323, 366 Spring tension, 178–179, 191 adjusting, 185–186 Springs, 230, 356, 365, 366, 417 air, 251, 314, 324 coil, 314, 315, 319, 320, 324–325, 331 increasing tension of, 66 negative, 326, 327, 363 positive, 326 removing, 315–316 soft, 318 stiff, 318 Squeaking noises, 372, 373 with saddles, 254 Squealing noises, 373 with breaking, 157, 373 Stand-over height, 345, 383, 384, 386, 387, 418 “Stan’s No Tubes” tubeless system, 120–121, 418 Star-nut installation tools, 7, 274 Star nuts, 263, 264, 274, 279, 418 Steering axis, 309, 418 stiff, 372 systems, 111, 255 Steering-tube overlap, 263, 278 Steering tubes, 267, 268, 270, 271, 273, 275, 276, 278, 279, 280, 281, 283, 284–285, 309, 310, 311, 418 carbon, 263, 264, 274 clamping, 282 cutting, 285 fork alignment and, 341, 342–343, 344 lubricating, 266 stripped threads on, 313 stuck stems in, 287 threaded, 260, 312, 313 threadless, 260, 262–265, 312 Stem bolts, 265, 282, 287 Stem clamps, 259, 262, 263, 265, 268, 270, 279, 287, 312 spreading, 267 tightening, 274
Stem length, 263, 285, 388, 390, 418 Stem wedges, 265, 270 Stems, 255, 260, 262–268, 273, 275, 278, 285, 418 adjusting, 262–266, 268, 385 broken, 266 checking, 16 clamp-type, 262, 267 front-opening, 258 installing, 262–266 quill-type, 265, 281, 416 removing, 260, 262, 265, 266–268, 280 stuck, 266–268, 287 suspension, 262 torque on, 393 troubleshooting, 286–287 Stopscrews, 45, 80 Straddle cables, 190–191, 418 adjusting, 184–185 Subpins, 57, 59, 60, 61 Suspension, 111 aligning, 343 cables and, 150 fork, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189, 263, 282, 284, 309, 310, 313, 314–315, 317–324, 330, 384, 386 frame, 101–102, 347, 358–361, 368, 386, 389, 390 maintaining, 249 problems with, 372 rear, 43, 47, 81, 108, 128, 147, 318, 347, 361–365 seatpost, 244–245, 249, 254 stem, 262 tuning, 361–365 Swingarms, 23, 82, 347, 348–349, 351, 358, 363, 367, 418 Syringes, 7, 171, 189, 190, 338 Talcum powder, 2, 118 Tension gauge, 66 Third Eye Chain Watcher, 110 Threadlock compound, 201, 293, 313, 330, 394 Threads fixing damaged, 350 prepping/tightening, 27–28 Through-axles, 20–22, 23, 128 quick-release, 20, 21 removing/installing wheels with, 20 Thumb shifters, 97, 100, 418 replacing cable in, 87–88 Tight, 29, 395
ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
Tightness, 29–30, 393 Tire beads, 114, 115, 119, 120, 121, 418 Tire inflators, 13, 267 Tire levers, 2, 12, 114, 158, 418 Tire pressure, 6, 16, 120, 318 Tires checking, 16, 118 deflating, 113, 116, 120, 123, 124 diameter of, 375 flat, 15, 16, 33–34, 112, 372, 374 inflating, 113, 120, 122, 124 installing, 36, 118–121 removing, 111–112, 114, 115, 342 size of, 117 standard, 120–121, 122 tubeless, 34, 111, 114, 115, 116, 120–121, 122, 123–124 Toeclips, 225 Toeing in, 183, 191, 193–194 Tool kits Level 1: 1–4, 14 Level 2: 1, 4, 6 Level 3: 1, 7, 9 Tools, 1, 31, 54, 90, 163, 223, 417 carrying/while riding, 11–14, 33, 48 Enduro, 218, 219 Mavic, 216 Phil Wood, 218 Shimano, 61, 62, 199, 285 terminology of, 72 Top tubes, 387, 388, 419 Torque, 199, 200, 419 for fasteners, 396–407 (table) measuring, 393, 395 recommendations on, 397 setting, 394 tightening, 29–30, 395 Triple-clamp forks, 327–328, 330 Truing, 41, 124, 127, 303 lateral, 125, 299–301 radial, 301 side-to-side, 301 Truing stands, 7, 124, 126, 299, 300, 301, 302 Tubes. See Inner tubes Tubing cutters, 11 Twist shifters, 90–91, 96–97, 98, 99, 103, 153, 154, 419 U-brakes, 16, 22, 148, 190–191, 194, 419 Understeering, 322, 324 Undertightening, 393
V-brakes, 16, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148, 149, 152, 154, 155, 183, 190, 194, 419 adjusting, 176–179 installing, 176–179 overhauling, 175–180 parallel-push, 178, 179 Valve core removers, 7, 357, 358 Valve cores, 113, 123, 356, 357 Valve extenders, 112, 113 Valve stems, 113, 114, 115, 119, 120 Valves, 115, 120 broken, 35 Presta, 34, 45, 112, 113, 114, 115, 118, 121, 123, 415 Schrader, 4, 34, 112, 115, 251, 320, 326, 327, 353, 416 Vibrations, braking and, 369 Vise, 6, 7 Vise grip, 6 Vise whips, 7, 138, 139, 141, 142, 419
Wheel-retention devices, 21, 419 Wheelbuilding, 40, 289–290, 303, 307–308 custom, 289 disc-brake, 291 front, 291, 293, 294 rear, 291, 293 Wheels, 343 bent, 38–41, 369 for big riders, 307–308 centering, 301–303 disc-brake, 291, 292, 294, 303, 305–306 heavy-duty, 289 lubricating, 30 prestressing, 302 removing/installing, 16, 17–24, 111, 115, 128, 133, 150, 163, 166, 341, 342, 367 straightening, 38–41 truing, 40, 124–126, 299–301
Wire, 14 Wrenches adjustable, 2, 37, 113 Allen, 29, 409 cone, 6, 128, 132 crowfoot, 11, 412 fixed-cup, 223 headset, 6, 14, 274 metric, 2, 20 open-end/box-end, 2, 12, 29 pedal, 13-14, 226 socket, 6, 29, 417 soft, 7 splined, 7, 9, 29 spoke, 4, 7, 13, 39, 40, 41, 124, 291, 299 torque, 7, 20, 200, 210, 229, 312, 393–394, 419 Torx, 6, 12, 29, 42, 201, 202, 419 Y-, 9
INDEX Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
431
About the author Lennard Zinn is a bike racer, frame builder, and technical writer. He grew up cycling, skiing, whitewater rafting, and kayaking—as well as tinkering with mechanical devices—in Los Alamos, New Mexico. After receiving his physics degree from Colorado College, he became a member of the U.S. Olympic Development Cycling Team. He went on to work in Tom Ritchey’s frame-building shop and has been producing custom mountain, road, and triathlon frames, as well as custom cranks and stems, at Zinn Cycles since 1982 (www.zinncycles.com).
Zinn has been writing for VeloNews since 1989 and is the magazine’s senior technical writer. Other books by Zinn are Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance (VeloPress, 3rd ed. 2009), Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes (VeloPress, 2007), Zinn’s Cycling Primer (VeloPress, 2004), Mountain Bike Performance Handbook (MBI, 1998), and Mountain Bike Owner’s Manual (VeloPress, 1998).
ABOUT THE ILLUSTRATOR Todd Telander is a former mechanic and bike racer who devotes most of his time these days to artistic endeavors. He attended the University of California at Santa Cruz, and while earning degrees in Environmental Studies and Biology, he completed a graduate-level program in scientific illustration. He has since studied fine art in several western states and was awarded an artist’s residency at Rocky Mountain National Park. In addition to drawing bike parts, he paints and draws wildlife and landscapes for publishers, museums, design companies, and individuals. You can see more examples of his work on his website, www.toddtelander.com.
Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
Also available from VeloPress Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance 3rd Edition Lennard Zinn applies his prodigious powers of mechanical expertise to the art and science of road bike repair. Newcomers and experienced mechanics alike will benefit from the book’s hundreds of illustrations (including exploded views of how components go together), its step-bystep instructions for basic and advanced repair, and Zinn’s practical, time-saving maintenance tips. Covers new and old bikes alike. 440 pages • $24.95 ISBN 978-1-934030-42-4
Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes Aerodynamics, Bike Fit, Speed Tuning, and Maintenance More than a repair manual, Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes presents proven techniques to wring more speed from today’s triathlon bicycles. With clear advice on bike fit and comfort, getting aero, tuning for speed, and choosing wisely among equipment upgrades, the tips in this book virtually guarantee faster bike splits. Of course, Zinn includes comprehensive maintenance and repair instructions too, accompanied by more than 300 illustrations and step-by-step directions to ensure trouble-free rides. 352 pages • $24.95 ISBN 978-1-931382-97-7
Zinn’s Cycling Primer Maintenance Tips & Skill Building for Cyclists Drawing upon the research of cycling experts around the world, Zinn’s Cycling Primer is a onestop guide for improving your riding skills. Covering all aspects of road and mountain cycling, Lennard Zinn shows you how to improve your bike fit and bike handling skills, as well as your training and recovery, injury prevention, core strength, and nutrition. Zinn also includes step-bystep instructions for basic road and mountain bike maintenance, repair, and upgrades. 232 pages • $24.95 ISBN 978-1-931382-43-4
Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed. Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved
