Your Crochet - Christmas 2016

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Crochet

find me on page 26!

Cr SiFmAVOURITYOUR ocply ES FROM he t

C H R I S T M A S Patterns to crochet today!

BRIGHT CHRISTMAS!

elf SerVice fun IdeAs for Kids

HOOK YOURSELF A HAPPY HOLIDAY SEASON

FesTive StyLe LuxUry to Wear

SeaSonal SpaRkle get the ParTy Look

ScaNdi Chic TraDiTion With a TwiSt!

QuiCk MakEs Easy DecOrAtiOns

Crochet C H R I S T M A S

96 Crochet C H R I S T M A S

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DisTrIbuTion

Hello W

elcome to YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS, a very merry collection of over 60 of our favourite patterns to inspire your festive crocheting, whether you’re hooking a gift for a loved one or treating yourself to some cosy new winter accessories. We’ve compiled quick makes and larger projects, grouping them so you can find the right make for you. If you’re looking for GIFTS FOR ALL THE FAMILY, turn to page 8. Or if you want to deck your home with yarn, from page 79 we’ve got dozens of ideas for DECORATIONS AND HOMEWARES. And take a look at page 37 if you’re after a new WINTER WARDROBE. We’ve got hats, mitts, wraps and more! Plus, if you’re new to crochet, there are also STEP-BY-STEP GUIDES to the basics as well as workshops to help you master more advanced techniques. Here’s to a very crochet Christmas!

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Crochet CONTENTS C H R I S T M A S

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Luxe Lace

87 92 PerfecT PresentS

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4 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

GorgeOus gIfts 8

FESTIVE CROWN A bright crown for kids of all ages. 10 ELF ON A SHELF Hook Santa’s little helpers! 13 RUBY SPARKLE Fab gift for stylish gals! 18 DRUMMER BEAR Smart amigurumi nutcracker bear. 22 LITTLE STRIPES Super-snuggly baby blanket. 24 SANTA PAWS Kit out the cat with a Santa hat! 26 SUGAR ‘N’ SPICE Cute amigurumi gingerbread. 29 COOL YULE A polar bear pal to hook today. 32 BABY CROCS Unique bootees for little feet. 34 STARRY NIGHT Hook a cosy, classy blanket.

WinteR warDrobe 37

SNOW STYLISH! Scandi-style hat and mitts. 41 IT’S A WRAP Snuggle up with a stripey wrap. 43 WINTER SUN Your choice of bright bobble hats. 46 THE BIG CHILL An ultra-cosy chunky cardi. 51 LET IT SNOW A Christmas jumper with style! 53 MAKE A WISH Accessorise with glittery stars. 56 TOP TOPPERS Keep warm with welly toppers. 57 JEWEL PURPOSE Hook a delicate diamond shawl. 60 DOUBLE CREAM A versatile wrap for every day. 63 RASPBERRY BERET Get ahead with this chic hat!

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99 34 NordiC DininG 115

66 FRIEND OR FAUX Get the party look with this stole. 69 FIGGY PUDDING A hat that’s good enough to eat! 72 CRANBERRY LACE Treat yourself to a luxury cardi. 76 RUBY SLIPPERS Super-sweet slipper socks.

DecorAtionS 79 SPELL IT OUT Bunting to celebrate your home. 82 BRIGHT BAUBLES Our bright cover star wreath! 84 SUPER STOCKING Gather your gifts in Scandi style. 87 TWINKLE, TWINKLE A set of shimmering coasters. 92 PRESENT PERFECT Unique gift wrap ideas and a decorative skirt for your tree.

96 COSY CALENDAR An Advent calendar with a difference! 99 BRANCH OUT A beautiful table runner. 101 JOLLY HOLLY Quick-to-make holly leaf motif. 103 SPRUCED UP Hook tiny trees for your table. 105 LUCKY STARS Deck the halls with a star garland. 108 LET’S PARTY Pompom glass markers. Neat! 109 CHRISTMAS DOLLS Scandi friends for your Christmas table or mantlepiece. 111 WINTER TIME Crochet a cuckoo clock! 115 FINE PINE Hook a mini-spruce or two! 120 SO SCANDI Nordic-inspired baubles.

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6 KAT’S JOURNAL Designer Kat Goldin on crocheting for Christmas.

how To… 15

ZIPS WORKSHOP Finish bags perfectly 89 EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP Embellish your makes 117 POPCORN WORKSHOP Master the art of popcorn stitches 125 THE GUIDE Step-by-step technique tips.

All our patterns use UK terms. If you usually crochet from US patterns, turn to page 130 for a conversion table.

T e rn s to Make!

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L A N R U O J S ’ T KA ...FROM THE STUDIO Handmade giving can be tricky at any time of year. Designer Kat Goldin helps you get sorted for Christmas. he days are turning shorter and the weather is turning colder, so inevitably my mind turns to the C word. I feel slightly embarrassed to bring it up because I’m not one of those people who looks forward to Christmas throughout the year. In fact, I sort of dread it. Not being an organised person by nature, the sheer amount of thinking ahead required puts me in a bit of a panic-induced stasis, where I know I need to get my act together but simply can’t, and end up buying everything last minute online. Historically this inertia has made me, quite frankly, a terrible handmade gift giver. It’s probably not the best thing to admit, having written a book about giving crochet gifts, but, you know, the good intentions have always been there. I have a Ravelry queue as long as my arm solely made up of things I would like to make and give to the people I love. I have stockpiles of wool bought with the sole purpose of making something specific for my children, husband, best friend or mother. I just can never get my act together to make more than a few of the gift items that are on my list.

Photograph of Kat Goldin by Xanthe Berkeley.

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MAKING TIME Even when I do have enough time available for the making, in the past I have found the act of handmade giving a bit of a tricky one to navigate. There is nothing worse than spending your time and money making something for someone and then getting a lukewarm response. Being the melodramatic sort,

“I HA VE A RA VE LRY QU EU E AS LO NG AS MY A RM O F G IFTS TO MA KE.”

I may have told my eight-year-old son recently that it was like a “dagger in my heart” when he told me that my proposal for his handmade winter hat would “make him look like a dork”. And then my father’s unenthusiastic response to a pair of socks I made for him even rendered me a wee bit tearful. There is no question that making for giving is a special kind of journey. You give up your most precious resource – your time – to make something that it could well have been easier or cheaper to buy. It’s not just about the finished

object though, it’s about the love, thought and care that goes into each step in the process, from picking out the yarn to sewing in the final ends. Experience has taught me to think carefully about a couple of things when planning my handmade gift giving. Here are my top hooking-to-give tips. Be organised. There is nothing worse than deciding to make something at the last moment and pulling an all-nighter to get it done. It’s always super-stressful and it never gives great results. Instead, organise your gift-giving thoughts and

on. “Think about the pers Do they love handmade, one-of-a-kind things?”

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“Fit your gifts to your yarn stash.” make sure you have enough time to get all of your projects done. IT’S GOOD TO GIVE Think about the person. Do they love handmade, vintage or one-of-a-kind things? Do they wear a lot of knitwear, scarves or accessories? Do they comment on your own or other people’s crocheted items? If so, then it’s a great indication that they would love to receive a handmade gift. Unless you are confident that the person knows how to wash 100% wool

items, it’s best to choose yarns that are pretty hard-wearing and ideally machine washable for gift-giving. I speak from experience – a friend of mine felted her Christmas jumper two years running. You can buy sweet sew-in labels that tell the receiver how to care for their items. Check out www.nakedlabelsuk.etsy.com for some great examples. Be realistic. While I would dearly love to knit my mother a jumper for Christmas and she would love to receive one, it is simply not going to happen and the time I could spend starting and not finishing a

SEASONAL MOOD BOARD “Wool full of kinks (I can’t stand it), a new design in the works, and ‘tis the season for chopping wood and making little Christmas stars.”

garment would be better spent starting and finishing a smaller accessory. Set a budget. Christmas is expensive, so, as with all Christmas gifts, set a budget for your projects and your overall spend and stick to it. If the budget is tight, choose a less expensive yarn or buy everything you need in a sale. As much as possible, fitting your gifts to your existing yarn stash is a good way to make room in your budget. Most importantly, start now! Don’t shoot me for saying it, but Christmas will be here before we know it!

feStive crowN Hook a cheery gift for little ones. By Cara Medus and Becky Skuse.

GIFTS

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QPatons Fab! DK (100% acrylic,

100g/274m), 1 ball of Red 02323 (one crown uses approx 30g of this yarn) QDMC Lumina (60% viscose, 40% metalized polyester sinflex, 20g/150m), 1 ball of Gold 3821 (one crown uses approx 5g of this yarn) QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook QElastic, 1cm wide, 10cm long QTapestry needle For yarn stockists, contact Coats Crafts 01484 681881 www.coatscrafts.co.uk and DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk

TENSION 18 sts and 10 rows to meas 10x10cm (4x4in) over treble patt using 3.5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Finished crown measures 54cm circumference To fit head circumference of 51-54cm (child aged 4-8 years)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

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hether it’s for Nativity plays, dressing up or simply to signal the start of the festive season, every child will need one of these sparkling crowns this Christmas! Using from a cheery red yarn (although you can choose your child’s favourite colour, of course), you’ll get three crowns out of one ball, so it’s a valuefor-money treat that’s finished off with a metallic yarn for a seasonal sparkle. Made with treble stitches, this crown has a simple construction, with points added around the edge and then trimmed with gold yarn. Stretchy elastic is then sewn inside to ensure a perfect fit for every child!

C CROWN BASE With red yarn, ch98. Row 1 Beg in 4th chain from hook, tr95, ss to top of ch-3 at beg of row to join into the round. [96 sts] Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr95, ss to beg ch-3 to join. [96 sts] Repeat Round 2 until crown base measures 7cm high. Do not fasten off. Continue to work first point. CROWN POINTS Each crown point is worked over 12 sts, making 8 points in total. Row 1 Ch3, tr2tog, tr to last 3sts, tr2tog, 1tr, turn. [10 sts] Rows 2-4 Repeat Row 1 another 3 times. [4 sts] Row 5 Ch2, skip first tr, begin a tr2tog in next st but work second part of

tr2tog in 4th st (missing 3rd st). Fasten off and weave in ends. Rejoin yarn to the next available tr and work a point over the next 12 sts, following the instructions above. CROWN EDGING: LOWER Join gold yarn at the lower edge. Round 1 Ch1, work dc evenly around edge, ss to first ch to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. CROWN EDGING: UPPER Join gold yarn to the upper edge. Round 1 Ch1, work dc evenly around edge and at each point, work (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) into the point stitch. Continue in this way all around and ss to the first ch to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH To sew in the elastic, first decide which part of the crown will be at the back of the head (the round join point is a good place). Place elastic on the WS of this part of the crown, 3.5cm up from the lower edge, with the centre of the elastic at the join point. Pin the centre of the elastic in place. Now work on each side at a time, stretching the elastic from the centre outwards and pinning in place. Once you’re happy with the placement, sew the elastic in place around the outside edges to secure. Once sewn in, the elastic should neatly pull the crown in to a 51cm circumference, but stretch out to 54cm.

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Elf oN a sHelf No Christmas will be complete without these cute helpers by Hannah Cross.

GIFTS

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED King Cole Baby Alpaca DK (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Cranberry (510) Yarn B Fawn (501) Yarn C Grey (502) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Polyester toy stuffing Q Small amount of wool roving in cream and white for felting the nose and beard Q Craft glue (to attach beard if you do not want to needle felt it in place) Q 100g beans to fill the body For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.co.uk Q

TENSION 23 sts and 25 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over double crochet worked in the round – tension is not critical, but match the stated tension to achieve a similar finished size

MEASUREMENTS Large Elf measures 12x45cm (4¾x17¾in) Small Elf measures 10x39cm (4x15¼in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

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he story of the ‘elf on a shelf’ may be relatively new, but the idea of an elf in your home who’s observing the family’s goings on and reporting back to Father Christmas has quickly established itself as a favourite tradition. Now you can crochet your own version of Santa’s little helpers with Hannah Cross’s adorable amigurumi versions. Resplendent in striped stockings and with luxuriously bushy white beards, these elves are full of quirky character and are sure to brought out every year to watch over your festivities!

NOTES The pattern is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off the round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work.

C LARGE ELF HAT With Yarn A, ch2. Round 1 (RS) 3dc in second ch from hook. [3 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [6 dc] Round 3 *Dc in next st, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [9 dc] Rounds 4-7 Dc in each st around. Round 8 *Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [12 dc] Rounds 9-10 Dc in each st around. Round 11 *Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [15 dc] Rounds 12-13 Dc in each st around. [15 dc] Round 14 *Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [18 dc] Rounds 15-16 Dc in each st around. Round 17 *Dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [21 dc] Rounds 18-19 Dc in each st around. Round 20 *Dc in each of next 6 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [24 dc] Round 21 Dc in each st around. Round 22 *Dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [27 dc] Round 23 Dc in each st around. Round 24 *Dc in each of next 8 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [30 dc] Round 25 Dc in each st around. Round 26 *Dc in each of next 9 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [33 dc] Round 27 *Dc in each of next 10 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around.

The elves’ legs are stuffed with the tails left over from your crocheting.

[36 dc] Round 28 *Dc in each of next 11 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [39 dc] Round 29 Dc in each st around. Round 30 *Dc in each of next 12 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [42 dc] Round 31 Dc in each st around. Round 32 *Dc in each of next 13 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [45 dc] Rounds 33-40 Dc in each st around. [45 dc] Fasten off. BODY With Yarn C, ch4, ss to first ch to form a ring. Round 1 (RS) 6dc into ring. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc] Round 3 *Dc in next st, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [18 dc] Round 4 *Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [24 dc] Round 5 *Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [30 dc] Round 6 *Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [36 dc] Round 7 *Dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [42 dc] Round 8 *Dc in each of next 6 sts, 2dc WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 11

GIFTS in next st; rep from * around. [48 dc] Round 9 *Dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [54 dc] Round 10 *Dc in each of next 8 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [60 dc] Round 11 *Dc in each of next 9 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [66 dc] Round 12 *Dc in each of next 10 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [72 dc]

each st around. Rounds 16-18 Change to Yarn C, dc in each st around. Repeat Rounds 13-18 five more times, ending with Yarn C. Fasten off.

Continue working in the back loops only. Rounds 13-16 Dc in each st around. Round 17 *Dc in each of next 10 sts, dc2tog; rep from * around. [66 dc] Rounds 18-20 Dc in each st around. Round 21 *Dc in each of next 9 sts, dc2tog; rep from * around. [60 dc] Rounds 22-24 Dc in each st around. Round 25 *Dc in each of next 8 sts, dc2tog; rep from * around. [54 dc] Rounds 26-28 Dc in each st around. Round 29 *Dc in each of next 7 sts, dc2tog; rep from * around. [48 dc] Round 30 Dc in each st around. Round 31 *Dc in each of next 6 sts, dc2tog; rep from * around. [42 dc] Round 32 Dc in each st around. Round 33 *Dc in each of next 5 sts, dc2tog; rep from * around. [36 dc]

Sew together the top of the Leg and sew to the base of the Body.

Stuff with two thirds beans and one third toy stuffing, then continue. Round 34 Dc2tog around. [18 dc] Round 35 Dc2tog around. [9 dc] Fasten off, sew top together and weave in ends. LEGS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, ch2. Round 1 (RS) 3dc in second ch from hook. [3 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [6 dc] Round 3 *Dc in next st, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [9 dc] Round 4 *Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [12 dc] Rounds 5-7 Dc in each st around. Now shape heel as follows: Rounds 8-9 Htr in each of next 6 sts, dc in each of next 6 sts. [12 sts] Round 10 Tr in each of next 6 sts, dc in each of next 6 sts. Continue working leg as follows: Rounds 11-12 Dc in each st around. Rounds 13-15 Change to Yarn B, dc in 12 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

Instead of stuffing the legs with toy stuffing, just stuff with the tails left over from changing colours.

ARMS (MAKE 2) With Yarn B, ch2. Round 1 (RS) 3dc in second ch from hook. [3 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [6 dc] Round 3 *Dc in next st, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [9 dc] Rounds 4-5 Dc in each st around. Change to Yarn C. Rounds 6-12 Working in back loop only: Dc in each st around. Fasten off, sew together the top of the Arm and sew in place on the Body. SMALL ELF HAT Work as for Large Elf in Yarn C, but omit Rounds 6, 7, 39 and 40. Fasten off and weave in ends. BODY Work as for Large Elf Body in Yarn A up to Round 10. [60 sts] Then work the following rounds: Rounds 11-14 Working in the back loop only: dc in each st around. Rounds 15-23 Work Rounds 25-33 of Large Elf Body. [36 sts after Round 23] Round 24 *Dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog; rep from * around. [30 sts] Stuff with two thirds beans and one third toy stuffing, then continue. Round 25 Dc2tog around. [15 dc] Fasten off, sew top together and weave in ends. LEGS (MAKE 2) Work as for Large Elf Legs, using Yarn C for the feet, and Yarns B and A for the stripes, but only repeat Rounds 13-18 four more times. ARMS (MAKE 2) Work as for Large Elf Arms, using Yarn

Wool roving makes a wonderfully soft beard for these cute characters.

The amigurumi method creates a circular base, so your elf will sit securely on the shelf.

A for the Sleeves, but stop at Round 10. TO MAKE UP (BOTH ELVES) Using some unworked white wool roving, create the beard and then needle felt or glue it onto the top of the body. Sew the hat in place, over the top of the beard so it looks like it’s covered up his eyes. Using a small amount of cream wool roving, create a ball for the nose – go as big as you like. Sew nose into place.

GIFTS

IMPROVE YOUR SKILLS! Turn to page 15 for our workshop on how to attach zips and linings

ruBy spArkle Glittery yarn and a bold scarlet lining make Becky Skuse’s purse the perfect party piece.

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GIFTS

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e’re loving the bold scallop shapes and hint of sparkle in this design (Gatsby vibes anyone?), but really it’s the beautifully finished zip and linings that makes it a winner. Put your sewing skills to the test. NOTES You can use the same or different fabrics for the inner and outer linings.

TAKE ON A CHALLENGE

DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QMarriner Sparkle DK (97%

acrylic, 3% lurex, 100g/300m), 1 ball of Black (purse uses approx 20g of this yarn) QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook QInner lining fabric, approx 42x14cm (16½x5½in) (we used a grey and white print) QOuter lining fabric, approx 42x14cm (16½x5½in) (we used a red cotton) QZip, approx 18cm (7in) long (excluding tape ends) QPiece of paper For yarn stockists, contact Marriner 02920 837613 www.marrineryarns.com

TENSION Not vital for this project, although if your finished purse is smaller or larger than finished measurements, you may need more yarn and more fabric

MEASUREMENTS Finished purse measures approx 20x12cm (7¾x4¾in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

C PURSE SIDE (MAKE 2) Ch35. Row 1 (RS) Tr in fourth ch from hook (skipped ch counts as st), and each ch to end, turn. [33 tr] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first 3 tr, (ch5, skip 3 tr, dc in each of next 5 tr) 3 times, ch5, skip 3 tr, dc in next 2 tr, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. [Four ch-5 sps, three 5-dc groups] Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, (11tr in next ch-5 sp, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, skip 2 dc) 3 times, 11tr in next ch-5 sp, dc in last dc, turn. [Four 11-tr shells] Row 4 Ch6 (counts as dtr, ch2), skip 3 tr, (5dc, ch5, skip 3 tr, skip 1 dc, skip 3 tr) 3 times, 5dc, ch2, skip 3 tr, dtr in last dc, turn. [Three ch-5 sps, two ch-2 sps, four 5-dc groups] Row 5 Ch3 (counts as tr), 5tr into first ch-2 sp, (skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, skip 2 dc, 11tr in next ch-5 sp) 3 times, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, skip 2 dc, 6tr in final ch-2 sp, turn. [Three 11-tr shells, t wo 6-tr half shells] Row 6 Ch1 (does not count as stitch), dc in first 3 tr, (ch5, skip 3 tr, skip 1 dc, skip 3 tr, dc in each of next 5 tr) 3 times, ch5, skip 3 tr, skip 1 dc, skip 3 tr, dc in next 2 tr, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. [Four ch-5 sps, three 5-dc groups] Rows 3-6 form pattern. Repeat Rows 3-6 once more, then work Row 3 one more time. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO MAKE UP Block purse sides to same size. Place purse sides wrong sides tog. Using a matching black yarn or cotton thread, seam tog down one side, along the bottom and up the other side. LINING TEMPLATE Place your purse on a piece of paper and draw around the outside. Remove the purse and cut out the paper shape.

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Choose a suitably fabulous print to line the inside of your clutch bag. We love florals.

You will need to keep the curves of the bottom corners, but not the individual scallops so cut off each scallop to straighten out the bottom. Fold the piece in half so the sides meet and trim off any excess so the piece is symmetrical. Unfold and insert the paper piece into your purse to check the fit. It will probably be too wide, so remove the paper, fold in half again and trim the sides slightly. Repeat until your paper shape fits well inside the purse. Once you’re happy, place your paper shape onto your inner lining fabric and draw around it twice. On both shapes, draw another line 1cm away from the first line all the way around (this is your seam allowance). Cut out along the outer line. Repeat this process with your outer lining fabric. SEW LINING Sew together your lining pieces as described in the workshop (page 17, steps 1-6), to form an inner lining pouch and an outer lining pouch. Before attaching the zip, you need to sew the outer lining into place. This will be visible on the outside of the purse so you need to keep all your seam allowances on the inside of the purse (these will be covered up by the inner lining). Turn the outer lining right sides out and keeping seam allowances on the inside, sew to the inside of the purse, as described in the workshop (page 17, steps 7-10). Now sew the zip in place as described in the workshop (page 16, steps 1-4). Finally, sew the inner lining in place as described in the workshop (page 17, steps 7-10).

Workshop

ziPs anD liNings Grab a sewing needle and thread – we’ll show you how to add zips and linings to your crochet creations.

When WouLd i Need to add Zips or LinIngs? Want to create makes that are practical and pretty? We’ll show you how… From purses and bags to garments and cushions, lining fabrics can add a fantastic extra design dimension to your makes, while zips are a great fastening option. Both are surprisingly simple to insert and we’ll show you how to do it. With a bit of practise, you’ll be able to line your makes and then you can use lacy stitch patterns on any project. Once you’ve mastered the technique, use your new skills to make our clutch purse on page 13.

ADD A LINING

ADD A ZIP It’s pretty straightforward to add a zip to your makes, especially if your crochet fabric is made up of dense stitches, such as double crochet. Perfect for adding finesse to crochet bags and purses.

For bags and purses with lacy crochet stitch patterns, you’ll need to add a fabric lining. This will help it to keep its shape and make sure there’s no chance of losing items through the gaps.

What Sort of zip do i Need? Master these clever fastenings and reap the rewards.

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Zips are genius inventions and compared with buttons or poppers, they’re much more effective at keeping small items like coins safe within a closed space. However, zips do take a little more effort to sew in correctly. It is possible to crochet directly onto a zip, but here we’re going to look at how to sew a zip into a finished purse. First, you need to finish your purse neatly. To do this, make sure that the pieces of your crochet purse or bag are blocked to size – quite often with a purse, you will have two identical pieces that you will need to seam together. However, there may be small differences in the size and shape of your pieces, so it’s always best to block individual pieces to the same size before seaming them together. Blocking also gives you the chance to tug your pieces into shape,

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tidy up any messy stitches or open up a lacy stitch pattern into its full glory. Once blocked, seam your purse on three sides, leaving the top open – you can use either a visible, decorative crochet seam or an invisible crochet or sewn seam. Now you’ll be ready to attach the zip. Make sure you have a sewing needle and cotton thread that matches the yarn you’ve used. Step 1 Start by getting a zip that fits the opening of your purse. If the opening doesn’t correspond to a standard zip length, just pick a slightly longer zip and tuck the zip’s closed end inside your purse. Step 2 A closed zip is usually best – this is one with a little stopper at the closed end so that the zipper can’t fall off. The open end should also have a little stopper on each side to stop the zipper. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 15

how do i InsErt a zip? Here’s a quick and easy way to sew in a zip. You’ll need some dressmaker’s pins and a pair of scissors handy. Step 1 Open the zip and, starting at the open end, pin it to the inside of your purse, aligning the opening stopper with the edge of your purse. Make sure the zip is face up and the teeth lie above the edge of your purse so the fabric doesn’t catch. Step 2 Pin all the way across. Carefully test that you can easily move the zipper. Step 3 Repeat the process on the other side of the purse and zip, ensuring the sides line up. Step 4 Once you’re happy with the fit, open the zip and slowly sew each side of the zip to each side of the purse, removing pins as you go. Use a handsewing needle, thread to match the yarn and backstitches. Or you could use a sewing machine, but the stitches may be visible.

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why do i Need to add a LinInG? A nifty way to give any make a whole new functionality. 18cm

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If your crochet fabric is made out of dense stitches like double crochet then you might not need to add a lining. However, adding a lining will really help your purse or bag to keep its shape and make absolutely sure that you won’t lose any of its contents. If your crochet fabric is made out of lacy stitches then it will definitely need to be lined, otherwise you might find that items go missing. Before attaching the lining, make sure you’ve blocked your pieces to size, seamed them together and added your fastening, such as a zip (see above). Lining a purse or bag isn’t as tricky as you might think – there’s no fancy equipment required and you don’t even need to own a sewing machine because you can easily attach the lining fabric with a simple hand-sewing needle and thread. 16 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

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Step 1 You’ll need to choose some lining fabric that suits your design, thinking about the use of your purse – perhaps something silky for an evening purse or a printed cotton fabric for an everyday bag. Iron out any wrinkles in the fabric before you start. Step 2 Lay your purse out flat and measure it. You will need to allow at least 1cm (½in) as a seam allowance on all sides of the fabric, so cut two pieces of your lining fabric that are 2cm (1in) larger than your actual purse measurements – 20x12cm for our example, above. If you’re working with a purse that’s a unique shape, like a circle, you’ll find it easier to draw around your purse and work from a template. Use your template to mark a shape onto your lining fabric that measures 1cm (½in) larger than your purse all the way around.

workshop

Once you’ve cut your templates, you’ll be ready to get sewing. Step 1 Place your two pieces of lining fabric right sides together. Using a fabric pen, mark the 1cm seam allowance and pin the two pieces together using straight pins. Step 2 Carefully sew around three sides at the pen marks, leaving the top open. If you have a sewing machine, this will speed up the process, but it’s a great chance to practise your hand sewing, too. Steps 3-4 To ensure the corners of the lining will be well-defined inside the purse, trim off the corners of the fabric, as shown. Be careful not to cut into your stitches. Step 5 To make sure the lining lies flat, press the seam allowance back on one side of your lining pouch, using an iron. Step 6 Turn over and repeat. Step 7 Take the lining and place it inside your purse – it should fit snugly to the three seamed edges while the raw edge will poke out of the top. If you’re adding a zip to your purse then you will achieve a neat result if you’ve sewn the zip to the purse before adding the lining – you’ll also be able to use the lining to hide the raw edges of the zip inside the purse. Measure the amount of lining fabric that pokes out of the top of the purse – you’ll want the lining to sit inside the purse a little below the top edge so add a couple of millimetres to your measurement. If you’ve inserted a zip, measure the amount of fabric from about 1cm (½in) below the teeth so the fabric won’t get caught. Step 8 Remove your lining once more and fold over the top edges to the wrong side by this amount, so the raw edge will be hidden once sewn into the purse. Iron the edge to give a nice, crisp finish and make the job of sewing it into the purse a little easier. Step 9 Pop the lining back into your purse and wiggle it into position, making sure the corners are in place and the edges lie flat. Now pin each side of the top edge of the lining to the top edge of the crochet purse. You have little choice here but to whip out a needle and thread, especially if you want the seam to be invisible from the outside of your purse. Carefully sew around the top edge of your lining with small stitches. For a really professional finish, make sure you don’t push the needle through to the outside of the purse or your stitches will be on show. Step 10 Make sure the zip moves freely, then fasten off securely and neatly.

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Written by Lucy Croft and Becky Skuse

how do i AttAch my LinInG? Brush up on these simple sewing skills to give your makes a professional-looking finish.

GIFTS

DrummEr beaR Brighten up the holiday season with this dapper nutcracker bear by Ilaria Caliri.

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triking the perfect balance between sweet and stately, our toy soldier is a great make for the festive season. Ilaria Caliri has captured in crochet a long tradition of nut-cracking at Christmas, using carved wooden fairytale figures. Our bear has just as much military charm and he looks very handsome in his highly decorated uniform – not only does he have epaulettes, but his jacket also has gold frog fastenings and his hat has gold braiding. He makes a wonderful gift and will bring delight for years to come, so make him now – and that’s an order!

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GIFTS

IMPROVE 4PLY YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QDMC Natura Just Cotton

(50g/155m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Canelle (37) Yarn B Passion (23) Yarn C Star Light (27) Yarn D Noir (11) Yarn E Tournesol (16) Yarn F Ivory (02) QA 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook QSafety eyes or black beads (approx 4mm diameter) Q2 skewers QPipe cleaners (optional) QToy stuffing For yarn stockists, contact DMC Creative 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS 25cm (10in) tall

NOTES The pattern is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off the round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work. Legs and body are worked as one piece starting from the feet. Other pieces are sewn to body. Hat and Drum are not sewn on. If desired, cut shapes from plastic to strengthen the top of the hat, drum sides and foot soles.

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

20 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

C HEAD Worked from nose to back of head. With Yarn A, ch4. Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and next ch, 3dc in the last ch, rotate to work in the other side of the foundation ch, 1dc in next ch, 2dc in the last ch. [8 sts] Round 2 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [12 sts] Round 3 (1dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [16 sts] Round 4 (1dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [20 sts] Round 5 (1dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [24 sts] Rounds 6-7 Dc in each dc around. Round 8 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (2dc in next st) 4 times, 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 16 sts. [30 sts] Round 9 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times, 1dc in each of next 18 sts. [36 sts] Round 10 (1dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [42 sts] Rounds 11-18 Dc in each dc around. Round 19 (1dc in each of next 5 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 20 (1dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 21 (1dc in each of next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts] Secure the eyes, between Rounds 7 and 8, approx 9 sts apart. If you’re using black beads, sew them on once the Head is finished. Stuff the Head with toy stuffing and continue stuffing as you go. Round 22 (1dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 23 (1dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Round 24 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew on black beads for eyes, if using. Stitch the nose and mouth using Yarn D and long, straight stitches. EARS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, ch3. Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, 3dc in next ch, rotate to work in the other side of the foundation ch, 2dc in the last ch. [6 sts] Round 2 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2 sts) twice. [8 sts] Rounds 3-4 Dc in each dc around.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the long tails to sew the Ears onto the Head, between Rounds 15 and 16, approx 10 sts apart. Weave in ends. BOTTOM OF JACKET With Yarn B, ch36. Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [36 sts] Rows 2-6 Ch1, 36dc, turn. Fasten off. FIRST LEG With Yarn C, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Rounds 3-20 Dc in each dc around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. SECOND LEG AND BODY Work as for First Leg, do not fasten off. Ch2. Put First Leg next to Second Leg and work the next round starting on First Leg. Round 21 1dc in each of next 10 sts, skip the last 2 sts of the First Leg, tr in each of next 2 ch, skip the first 2 sts of the Second Leg, 1dc in each of next 10 sts, dc in each remaining loop of the next 2 ch. You may need to use the tail from the First Leg to sew together any gaps in the stitching. [24 sts] Round 22 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 23 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 sts] Rounds 24-30 Dc in each dc around. [36 sts] Fasten off Yarn C. Stuff the legs and continue stuffing as you go (insert a pipe cleaner if you want to be able to bend the legs). Place the Bottom of Jacket piece around the waist – with the open part at the front – and fix in place with pins. Join Yarn D in the middle of the back. Round 31 Dc in each dc around, working each st through one st of Round 30 and one st of the Bottom of Jacket piece to join. [36 sts] Round 32 Dc in each dc around. Change to Yarn B. Rounds 33-39 Dc in each dc around. [36 sts] Round 40 (1dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts]

GIFTS Round 41 (1dc in each of next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 42 (1dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 43 (1dc in next st, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Round 44 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew the Head to the Body. JACKET FASTENERS (MAKE 3) With Yarn E, leave a long tail of yarn and ch6. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Fix each piece to the chest with pins. Use the long tails to embroider a big French knot on each side of each piece, to fix each chain piece to the chest. BOOTS (MAKE 2) With Yarn D, ch4. Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and next ch, 3dc in the next ch, rotate to work in the other side of the foundation ch, 1dc in next ch, 2dc in the last ch. [8 sts] Round 2 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [12 sts] Round 3 (1dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [16 sts] Round 4 Working in back loop only: Ch1, 1dc in each dc around. Rounds 5-6 1dc in each dc around. Round 7 1dc in each of next 6 sts, (dc2tog) twice, 1dc in each of next 6 sts. [14 sts] Rounds 8-15 1dc in each dc around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Insert Leg inside Boot and sew in place using long tail.

work in the other side of the foundation ch, 1htr in each of next 2 ch, turn. [8 sts] Row 2 Ch1, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, (2dc in next st) twice, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, turn. [10 sts] Row 3 Working in back loop only: Ch1, 1dc in each st. [10 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Cut 10 pieces of yarn, each approx 6cm (2¼in) long, fold each piece in half and pull through each st of the last row using a crochet hook, to make a tassel. Repeat for the other Epaulette. Sew on the Epaulettes at the shoulders. HAT With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 Working in back loop only: 1dc in each st around. [30 sts] Rounds 7-16 1dc in each dc around. Change to Yarn D. Round 17 1dc in each dc around. Cont with the visor working in rows. Row 1 (RS) Working in front loop only: Ss in first st, dc in next st, htr in next st, tr in each of next 4 sts, htr in next st, dc in next st, ss in last st, turn. [8 sts] Row 2 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts. [10 sts] Fasten off.

Take your time over the details on the drum – they’ll make your finished bear look fab! DRUM With Yarn F, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 sts] Change to Yarn C. Round 7 Working in back loop only: 1dc in each st around. Rounds 8-13 1dc in each dc around. Fasten off. DRUM BASE With Yarn F, work Rounds 1-6 of Drum. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the Drum and sew the Base in place.

ARMS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 5dc into loop. [5 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 sts] Rounds 3-5 1dc in each dc around. Change to Yarn D. Round 6 1dc in each dc around. [10 sts] Change to Yarn B. Rounds 7-21 1dc in each dc around. Stuff with toy stuffing (insert a pipe cleaner if you want to bend the arms). Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew the Arms to the body using the long tails.

HAT BASE With Yarn D, work Rounds 1-5 of Hat. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the Hat and sew the Base in place.

DRUM STRING With Yarn F, ch55. Row 1 (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. [54 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

HAT STRING With Yarn D, ch33. Row 1 (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. [32 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew each end of the Hat String to the Hat, 3 sts from each side of visor.

Use the tail to sew the Drum String to the sides of the Drum, at an angle. With Yarn E, embroider the drum with long stitches, using the photo above as a guide. With Yarn E, add 2 French knots to each side of the Drum String, where they meet the Drum.

EPAULETTES (MAKE 2) With Yarn E, ch5. Row 1 1htr in third ch from hook (skipped ch do not count as a st), htr in next ch, 4htr in the next ch, rotate to

HAT DECORATION With Yarn E, ch16. Fasten off. Add a tassel at each end, approx 2cm long. Sew each end of Hat Decoration to front of Hat, using photos as a guide.

TO MAKE UP Cut two lengths of skewer measuring 3.5cm (1½in) each to form drumsticks. Insert each one into a stitch at the centre of the bear’s hand. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 21

liTtle StripeS Treat a new arrival to Emma Potter’s sweet blanket for their first Christmas.

GIFTS

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QSublime Baby Cashmere

Merino Silk DK (75% wool, 20% silk, 5% cashmere, 50g/116m), 5 balls of Yarn A Vanilla (003), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Buttercream (437) Yarn C Little Duck Egg (436) QA 4mm (US G/6) hook For yarn stockists, contact Sublime 01924 369666 www.sublimeyarns.com

MEASUREMENTS 60x45cm (23½x17¾in)

ABBREVIATIONS

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rochet designer Emma Potter describes this lovely creation of hers as “An heirloom newborn baby blanket, made using a stretchy, staggered shell stitch and super-soft luxury yarn for a happy, snuggly baby.” What more could you want in a little one’s blanket? The simple stitch pattern repeat makes it ideal for beginners, and it’s so easy to change the colours if you’d like to try something different.

C BLANKET With Yarn A, ch98. Row 1 (RS) (Dc, ch2, 4tr) in the second ch from the hook, *skip next 3 ch, (dc, ch2, 4tr) in the next ch; repeat from * across to the last 4 ch, skip next 3 ch, dc in the last ch, turn. Row 2 Ch3, 2tr in st at the base of ch-3, *skip the next 4 tr, (dc, ch2, 4tr) in the next ch-2 sp, skip 1 dc; repeat from * across to the last 4 tr, skip 4 tr, dc in ch-2 sp, turn.

When changing colour, work the final part of the last double crochet in the new colour.

For a full list, see page 130. Repeat Row 2, changing colour as follows: Row 3 Use Yarn A. Rows 4-5 Use Yarn B. Rows 6-25 Use Yarn A. Rows 26-29 Use Yarn B. Rows 30-31 Use Yarn A. Rows 32-35 Use Yarn C. Rows 36-37 Use Yarn A. Rows 38-41 Use Yarn B. Rows 42-67 Use Yarn A. Fasten off and weave in ends.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR IN ROWS

1 Start working the last stitch of the last row of the old colour, but stop before you work the final yrh of the stitch. Cut off the old yarn, leaving a tail about 7cm long.

2 Now loop your new yarn colour around the hook, leaving a long tail of yarn (about 7cm long).

3 Pull the new yarn loop through the remaining two loops to finish off the stitch. Pull the old and new yarn ends to tighten the loop on the hook.

4 Now you can work the turning chain of the new row in the new colour, for example, ch3. Then work the stitches of the new row in the new yarn colour.

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Santa paws Hook Sara Thomas’s pompom hat for a cool cat this Christmas.

GIFTS

EASY-PEASY TO MAKE

ARAN WEIGHT

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ake sure your mog looks cool this yule with a hat St Nick would certainly approve of! Any aran-weight yarn in red or white will do the trick here, and you’ll have a Christmassy cat in no time!

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QAran yarn

Yarn A Red 27m Yarn B White 9m QA 4mm (US G/6) hook QPolyester fibre filling Q2.5cm pompom maker (optional) QTapestry needle

MEASUREMENTS Ear opening: 5cm (2in) Width of hat between ears: 6cm (2½in)

ABBREVIATIONS

C CAT HAT BASE With Yarn A, ch2, leaving a 64cm (25in) tail. Row 1 (RS) 3dc in 2nd ch, turn. Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 3dc, turn. Row 3 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 1dc, 2dc in last st, turn. [5 dc] Row 4 Ch1, 5dc, turn. Row 5 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in each st to last st, 2dc in last st, turn. [7 dc] Row 6 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 7-10 Repeat Rows 5 and 6. [11 dc] Row 11 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 9dc, 2dc in last st, turn. [13 dc]

For a full list, see page 130. This purrfect pompom hat is from Cats In Hats by Sara Thomas (Hamlyn, RRP £9.99). To buy a copy visit www. octopusbooks.co.uk or call 020 3122 6400.

HAT

FIRST EAR HOLE Row 12 Ch1, 1dc, ch11, skip 11 dc, 1dc in last st, turn. MIDDLE SECTION Rows 13-22 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.

BASE

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SECOND EAR HOLE Row 23 Ch1, 1dc, ch11, skip 11 dc, 1dc in last st, turn. Row 24 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. [13 dc] Row 25 Ch1, dc in first st, skip next st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, skip next st, dc in last st, turn. [11 dc] Row 26 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 27-34 Repeat Rows 25 and 26. [3 dc] Row 35 Ch1, skip 2 sts, dc in last st. Work 25ch, fasten off and pull through loop tightly. Trim tail. Work 25ch using 64cm (25in) tail at beg of base. HAT TOP Work in the round in a spiral without closing each round with a ss. If necessary, place a marker to show start of round. With Yarn A, ch2. Round 1 4dc in 2nd ch. Round 2 1dc in each st around. [4 dc] Round 3 2dc in each st around. [8 dc] Rounds 4-5 1dc in each st around. Round 6 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [12 dc] Rounds 7-9 1dc in each st around. Round 10 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc] Rounds 11-13 1dc in each st around. Round 14 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 9 times. [27 dc] Rounds 15-17 1dc in each st around. Round 18 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 9 times. [36 dc] Round 19 (8dc, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [40 dc] Rounds 20-21 1dc in each st around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail, and pull through loop tightly. TO MAKE UP With Yarn B, make a 2.5cm (1in) pompom and two 1cm (¼in) tassels. Attach pompom securely to top of Hat. Attach one tassel on end of each tie. Lightly stuff Hat Top with fibre filling, being careful to evenly distribute filling. Stitch Hat Top onto centre of Base using the long tail.

Read the Base chart from bottom to top. All rounds on the Hat chart are read in an anti-clockwise direction.

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Sugar ‘n’ spicE This festive gingerbread doll, by Sara Mackin for DMC, would make a lovely gift!

GIFTS

IMPROVE 4PLY YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QDMC Petra size 3 (100% cotton,

100g/280m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Brown (5434) Yarn B Cream (53901) Yarn C Dark Brown (5938) QDMC Pearl Cotton thread, 1 skein of Yarn D Red (666) QA 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook QStitch markers QToy stuffing For yarn stockists, contact DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk

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s well as eating gingerbread this Christmas, why not craft some out of yarn, too? This cute doll will make a lovely gift for a young one (or someone young at heart). Just delicious! NOTE The pattern is worked in the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off the round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work.

C HEAD With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next st; rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts] Round 4 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [24 sts] Round 5 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 3 TENSION sts; rep from * 5 times more. Tension is not critical as long as [30 sts] you are prepared to accept a Round 6 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 4 slight difference in size in the sts; rep from * 5 times more. [36 sts] finished project Round 7 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 5 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [42 sts] MEASUREMENTS Round 8 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 6 Approx 24cm (9½in) tall sts; rep from * 5 times more. [48 sts] Round 9 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 7 ABBREVIATIONS sts; rep from * 5 times more. For a full list, see page 130. [54 sts] Round 10 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 8 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [60 sts] Round 11 1dc in each st around. [60 sts] Round 12 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 9 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [66 sts] Round 13 1dc in each st around. [66 sts] Round 14 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 10 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [72 sts] Rounds 15-19 1dc in each st around. [72 sts] Round 20 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 10 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [66 sts] Round 21 1dc in each st around. [66 sts] Round 22 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 9 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [60 sts] Round 23 1dc in each st around. This Christmassy amigurumi [60 sts] pattern is from DMC. To find Round 24 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 8 sts; more crochet patterns and rep from * 5 times more. [54 sts] see the full range of DMC Round 25 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 7 sts; yarn (and to find a stockist) rep from * 5 times more. [48 sts] visit www.dmccreative.co.uk Round 26 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 6 sts; or call 0116 275 4000.

The eyes and buttons are made with a mini version of an amigurumi spiral.

rep from * 5 times more. [42 sts] Round 27 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 5 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [36 sts] Round 28 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 4 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [30 sts] Round 29 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 3 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [24 sts] Round 30 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts] Round 31 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next st; rep from * 5 times more. [12 sts] Stuff irmly before inal round. Round 32 Dc2tog around [6 sts], ss to next st. Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, pass the yarn through last 6 sts and pull tight before neatly sewing in end of yarn. BODY AND LEGS With Yarn A, make a magic loop, leaving long tail. Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next st; rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts] Round 4 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [24 sts] Round 5 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 3 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [30 sts] Round 6 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 4 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [36 sts] Round 7 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 5 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [42 sts] Rounds 8-9 1dc in each st around. [42 sts] Round 10 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 6 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [48 sts] Rounds 11-14 1dc in each st around. [48 sts] Round 15 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 7 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [54 sts] Rounds 16-19 1dc in each st around. [54 sts] Round 20 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 8 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 27

GIFTS body and irst leg around Round 38, then stuff the second leg before inal row. Note: Don’t worry if you ind you are missing, or extra, by 1st on this leg; follow the pattern instructions plus or minus 1dc. The slightly thinner/thicker leg won’t be noticeable at the end.

This little fellow is a great introduction to amigurumi if you’re new to the method.

sts. Rep from * 5 times more. [60 sts] Rounds 21-26 1dc in each st around. [60 sts] Round 27 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 9 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [66 sts] Rounds 28-32 1dc in each st around. [66 sts] Round 33 1dc in each st except last st. On last st 1dc through this st and 33rd st to split body shape in 2. These 2 shapes will be continued to make the legs. *Round 34 1dc in 33 sts up to the join – do not work the other 33 for now. [33 sts] Rounds 35-36 1dc in each st around. [33 sts] Round 37 *Dc2tog, 1dc in 9 sts; rep from * twice more. [30 sts] Round 38 1dc in each st around. [30 sts] Change to Yarn B. Round 39 1dc in each st around. [30 sts] Round 40 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 8 sts; rep from * twice more. [27 sts] Round 41 1dc in each st around. [27 sts] Change to Yarn C. Round 42-46 1dc in each st around. [27 sts] Round 47 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 7 sts; rep from * twice more. [24 sts] Round 48 Work in bl, *dc2tog, 1dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts] Round 49 *Dc2tog, dc in next st; rep from * 5 times more. [12 sts] Round 50 Dc2tog to end. [6 sts] Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, pass the yarn through last 6 sts and pull tight before sewing in end of yarn. For second leg, join Yarn A at joining st between 2 legs. Follow pattern from Round 34 (marked with a *). Stuff the 28 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

ARMS (MAKE 2) With Yarn C, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 *2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next st; rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts] Round 4 *2dc in 1st st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [24 sts] Rounds 5-7 1dc in each st around. [24 sts] Change to Yarn B. Rounds 8-9 1dc in each st around. [24 sts] Change to Yarn A. Round 10 *Dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts] Rounds 11-15 1dc in each st around. [18 sts] Round 16 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next st; rep from * 5 times more. [12 sts] Rounds 17-26 1dc in each st around. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving long tail. EYES (MAKE 2) With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 *2dc in 1 st, dc in next st; rep from * 5 times more [18 sts], ss to next st. Fasten off. Pull centre thread tight and secure neatly. Leave other end to stitch Eyes to Head later. CENTRE OF EYES With Yarn C, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around [12 sts], ss to irst dc. Fasten off. Thread spare yarn at centre through 6 sts and pull tight before sewing in end. Use other end to stitch centre onto ‘whites’ of eyes. BUTTONS (MAKE 3) With Yarn D, make a magic loop.

Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 1dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 4 Dc2tog around [6 sts], ss to next st. Fasten off. COLLAR Work this piece in rows. With Yarn B, ch30. Row 1 (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook, cont in dc to end, turn. [29 sts] Row 2 1dc in irst st, *ch5, skip a st, ss in next st; rep from * to end. Fasten off, leaving long tail, and use ends of yarn to stitch collar to neck. TO MAKE UP FACIAL FEATURES With Yarn C. Row 1 1 row of surface crochet around Head (follow central row around circumference), leave gap at base of head where Head and Body are joined. Row 2 When you reach other end, turn and 1dc back in 1st row of Yarn C sts. Fasten off and sew in ends. Alternatively, make a long enough ch to reach around circumference of Head, turn and work 1dc back along chain and stitch onto head. With Yarn D, follow same method to create lips. Sew centre of Eyes onto whites of Eyes. Sew Eyes onto face using excess thread left on ‘whites’. HEAD AND BODY With Yarn A, sew Head to top of Body. Lightly stuff hands and flatten tops of Arms before stitching to either side of body. Sew Collar between Head and Body. Flatten Buttons before sewing them evenly spaced onto Body.

Cool Yule Liz Ward’s Arctic critter will add the cuddle factor to your Christmas!

GIFTS

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QJames

C Brett Cotton On (50% acrylic, 50% cotton, 50g/145m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A White (01) Yarn B Pale Blue (011) QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook QStitch markers Q9mm black safety toy eyes QToy stuffing QTapestry needle and sewing needle QBlack embroidery thread QWhite iridescent sequins For yarn stockists, contact James C Brett www.jamescbrett.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Approx 20x15cm (8x6in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

30 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

T

his sweet polar bear is a great seasonal project. His cosy scarf is keeping him warm and the cascade of sparkles and stars on his side means he’s quite a dapper little chap! This amigurumi figure is worked from the nose to the tail in mainly one piece, making it ideal if you aren’t keen on sewing up and like your toys to take shape as you go. We’ve chosen ice blue for his accessories, but you can use any colour you like for this perfect wintry gift.

NOTES The head and body is worked together in one piece. Stuff the head and body as you go along. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off the round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work.

C HEAD AND BODY With Yarn A make a magic loop, 6dc into loop. [6 sts] Round 1 *Dc in irst st, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [9 sts] Round 2 *Dc in irst 2 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [12 sts] Round 3 *Dc in irst 3 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [15 sts] Round 4 *Dc in irst 4 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [18 sts] Round 5 *Dc in irst 5 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [21 sts] Round 6 *Dc in irst 6 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [24 sts] Mark this round with a stitch marker. Round 7 *Dc in irst 5 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [28 sts] Round 8 *Dc in irst 6 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [32 sts] Round 9 *Dc in irst 7 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [36 sts] Round 10 *Dc in irst 8 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [40 sts] Rounds 11-13 Dc in each st to the end. [40 sts] Round 14 *Dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts; rep from * around. [35 sts] Round 15 *Dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts; rep from * around. [30 sts] The next 2 rounds create the bend in the neck. Rounds 16-17 Htr in next 6 sts, dc in next 10 sts, ss in next 4 sts, dc in the last 10 sts. [30 sts] Round 18 Dc in each st to the end. [30 sts]

Take your time to embroider the facial features and give your bear a happy grin!

Sequins and embroidered stars add a hint of Christmas sparkle to this cuddly chap.

Round 19 *Dc in irst 9 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [33 sts] Round 20 Dc in each st to the end. [33 sts] Put your working loop on a stitch holder and attach the toy eyes at the top of the Head, 9 sts apart on Round 6. Stuff the Head with toy stufing. Put your working loop back on your hook and cont as folls: Round 21 *Dc in irst 10 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [36 sts] Round 22 Dc in each st to the end. [36 sts] Round 23 *Dc in irst 11 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [39 sts] Round 24 Dc in each st to the end. [39 sts] Round 25 *Dc in irst 12 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [42 sts] Round 26 Dc in each st to the end. [42 sts] Round 27 *Dc in irst 13 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [45 sts] Round 28 Dc in each st to the end.

GIFTS [45 sts] Round 29 *Dc in irst 14 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [48 sts] Round 30 Dc in each st to the end. [48 sts] Round 31 *Dc in irst 15 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [51 sts] Round 32 Dc in each st to the end. [51 sts] Round 33 *Dc in irst 16 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [54 sts] Round 34 Dc in each st to the end. [54 sts] Round 35 *Dc in irst 17 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [57 sts] Round 36 *Dc in irst 18 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [60 sts] Rounds 37-39 Dc in each st to the end. [60 sts] Round 40 *Dc2tog, dc in next 18 sts; rep from * around. [57 sts] Round 41 *Dc2tog, dc in next 17 sts; rep from * around. [54 sts] Round 42 *Dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts; rep from * around. [48 sts] Round 43 *Dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts; rep from * around. [42 sts] Round 44 *Dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts; rep from * around. [36 sts] Round 45 *Dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts; rep from * around. [30 sts] Round 46 *Dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * around. [24 sts] Round 47 *Dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * around. [18 sts] Round 48 *Dc2tog, dc in next st; rep from * around. [12 sts] Round 49 (Dc2tog) repeat to end. [6 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the Body irmly with toy stufing. Thread the cut yarn onto a tapestry needle and weave through the last 6 sts. Pull the yarn to close the hole at the base of the Body, weave in loose ends. LEGS (MAKE 4) ALL LEGS With Yarn A, make a magic loop, 6dc into loop. [6 sts] Round 1 2dc into each st to the end. [12 sts] Round 2 *Dc in irst st, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [18 sts] Round 3 Working in back loops, dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in last 5 sts. [16 sts] Round 4 Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in last 4 sts.

[14 sts] Rounds 5-7 Dc in each st to the end. [14 sts] Round 8 Dc2tog, dc in each st to the end. [13 sts] Rounds 9-10 Dc in each st to the end. [13 sts] Round 11 Dc2tog, dc in each st to the end. [12 sts] Rounds 12-14 Dc in each st to the end. [12 sts] LEFT LEGS ONLY Rounds 15-16 Dc in irst st, tr in next 4 sts, dc in next st, ss in next 6 sts. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Take care not to overstuff your bear so that the filling doesn’t show through the stitches.

RIGHT LEGS ONLY Round 15-16 Ss in irst 6 sts, dc in next st, tr in next 4 sts, dc in last st. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff Legs irmly with toy stufing. Using the photo as a guide, sew Legs to Body. Weave in loose ends. EARS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, make a magic loop, 6dc into loop. [6 sts] Round 1 *Dc in irst st, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [9 sts] Round 2 Dc in each st to the end. [9 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using the photo as a guide, sew Ears to Body. Weave in loose ends. TAIL With Yarn A, make a magic loop, 4dc into loop. [4 sts] Round 1 *Dc in irst st, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [6 sts] Round 2 *Dc in irst 2 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [8 sts] Rounds 3-5 Dc in each st to the end. [8 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using the photo as a guide, sew Tail to Body. Weave in loose ends. SCARF Work in rows. With Yarn B, ch4. Row 1 Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each st, turn. [3 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st, turn. Repeat the last row until the Scarf is 35cm long. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Knot short lengths of Yarn B onto the

Wrap a scarf around the bear’s neck and he’s ready to brave the snow and ice!

ends of the scarf to form tassels and cut to length. TO FINISH With black embroidery thread, stitch facial features. Using the photo as a guide work a V for the nose, then ill it in with long stitches. Add a small stitch down from the centre of the nose and 2 line stitches either side to form the mouth. With Yarn B, embroider small star shapes on the rear flank of the polar bear’s side. Sew on sequins in between and around the stars. Tie the scarf round the polar bear’s neck.

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Photography by © Geneve Hoffman Photography. Used with permission of Storey Publishing.

Baby CrocS Keep little ones snug in Gwen Steege’s fab crocodile stitch bootees.

GIFTS

TAKE ON A CHALLENGE

DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QDebbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino

(55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere, 50g/125m), 2 balls of Coral (086) QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook For yarn stockists, contact Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarns.uk.com

B

ootees make a great gift for little ones at any time of year – babies always find a way to wriggle out of socks, so you can never have too many pairs! These eye-catching bootees have a fantastic crocodile stitch cuff. It’s quite a tricky technique but the results are worth it, plus the edging means it’s less likely that the bootees will fall off, keeping toes warmer for longer!

C BOOTEES (MAKE 2) Ch10. Round 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 7 ch, 5dc in last ch (toe); working on opposite of foundation ch, dc in next 7 ch, 2dc in last ch (heel), join with ss to first dc. [22 dc] TENSION Round 2 Ch2 (counts as htr here and 20 sts (either dc or htr) measure throughout), htr in same st, htr in next 7 10cm (4in), Rounds 1-4 (the sole of dc, 2htr in each of next 5dc, htr in next the Bootee) measure 4.5cm (1¾in) 7 dc, 2htr in each of last 2 sts, join with by 8cm (3¼in) ss to top of beg ch-2. [30 htr] Round 3 Ch2, htr in same st, htr in next MEASUREMENTS 11 sts, 2htr in each of next 5 sts, htr in 9cm (3½in) foot length, 9cm next 11 sts, 2htr in each of last 2 sts, (3½in) tall join with ss to top of beg ch-2. [38 htr] Round 4 Ch2, htr in next 14 htr, 2htr in ABBREVIATIONS each of next 5 htr, htr in next 16 htr, 2htr For a full list, see page 130. in next 2 htr, join with ss to top of beg ch-2. [45 htr] Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc bl in same st and each st around, join with ss to first dc. Round 6 Ch1, dc in each dc around, join with ss to first dc. Round 7 Ch2, htr in next 15 sts, (htr2tog) 6 times, htr in next 15 sts, htr2tog, join with ss to top of beg ch-2. [38 htr] Round 8 Ch1, dc in same st, dc in next 15 sts, (dc2tog) 3 times, dc in next 16 sts, join with ss to first dc. [35 dc] Round 9 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each st to last 4 sts, (dc2tog) twice, join with ss to first dc. [31 dc] Round 10 Ch2, htr in each dc around, join with ss to top of beg ch-2. Round 11 Ch1, dc in first 9 dc, (dc2tog) 7 times, dc in last 8 dc, join with ss to first dc. [24 dc] This project is from the Rounds 12 and 13 Ch1, dc in each st book Crochet One-Skein around, joing with ss to first dc. Wonders For Babies (Storey Round 14 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in next Publishing, RRP £12.99). Your 3 dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc; Crochet Christmas readers repeat from * around. [30 dc] can buy a copy of the book for just £11.99 Work Rounds 1-6 of Crocodile Stitch as (with free P&P in the UK). To order, call follows. EFC Bookshop on 01872 562327 or visit www.efcbookshop.com.

CROCODILE STITCH PATTERN Round 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip 1 dc, tr in next 2 dc, *ch1, skip 1 dc, tr in next dc, ch1, skip 1 dc, tr in next 2 dc; repeat from * around to last st, ch1, skip 1 dc, join with ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. Round 2 *Holding piece with first st to be worked rotated 90º to the right and working from right to left, 5tr around post of next tr; ch1, rotate piece 180º, 5tr around post of next tr, ss in next tr; repeat from * around, ending with ss in same place as Round 1 joining ss. Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr here and throughout), tr in same st, *ch1, tr in next space between 2 tr at centre of Crocodile Stitch, ch1**, 2tr in next ss; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join with ss to top of beg ch-3. Round 4 Working around posts as for Round 2, ch1, 5tr around starting ch of row below, ch1, 5tr around post of next tr, ss in next tr, *5tr around next tr, ch1, 5tr around next tr, ss in next tr; repeat from * around. Round 5 Ss in next space, ss between 2 tr at centre of Crocodile Stitch, ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), 2tr in next ss, *ch1, tr in next space between 2tr at centre of Crocodile Stitch, ch1, 2tr in next ss, ch1; repeat from * around, join with ss to top of beg ch-3. Round 6 Repeat Round 2. Fasten off and weave in ends.

BABY CROCS

Abbreviated crocodile Stitch Pattern

Read the chart from bottom to top, and all rounds are read from right to left.

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StarrY nighT Give the gift of warmth this winter with Helen Ardley’s stellar blanket.

GIFTS

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

ARAN WEIGHT

5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QCascade 220 Heathers

(100g/200m, 100% Peruvian highland wool), 6 hanks of Indigo Frost QA 5mm (US H/8) hook For yarn stockists, contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Each square measures 26x26cm (10¼x10¼in) Finished blanket measures 80x108cm (31½x42½in)

ABBREVIATIONS 5-tr cl (Yrh, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 5 times, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh and draw through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 130.

W

hen the weather turns icy, there’s nothing for it but to cosy up with your favourite film and this blanket project. The lacy treble rounds are quick to work, and as it grows it’ll keep you warm while the temperature drops. In fact, you might not even notice the cold while you’re hooking the pretty heathery yarn from Cascade, which has warm flecks of grey mixed with frosty blue. A perfect blend.

C SQUARE (MAKE 12) Ch4, ss to first ch to form a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), 7tr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-3. [8 sts] Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into st at base of ch-3, 2tr into each tr around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [16 sts] Round 3 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into st at base of ch-3, 2tr into each tr around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [32 sts] Round 4 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), 5-tr cl into next tr, (ch1, tr into next tr, ch1, 5-tr cl into next tr) around, ss to third of beg ch-4. [16 tr, 16 5-tr cl] Round 5 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 2tr into st at base of ch-3, *(ch3, dc into top of first 5-tr cl, (ch6, dc into top of next 5-tr cl) 3 times, ch3, 3tr into top of next tr; rep from * twice more, ch3, dc into top of next 5-tr cl, (ch6, dc in next 5-tr cl) 3 times, ch3, ss to top of beg ch-3. [3 ch-6 sp each side, 3 tr each corner]

Round 6 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into st at base of ch-3, tr into next tr, 2tr into next tr, *2tr into ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into ch-6 sp, (ch6, dc into next ch-6 sp) twice, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, 2tr into next tr, tr into next tr, 2tr into next tr; rep from * twice more, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into next ch-6 sp, (ch6, dc into next ch-6 sp) twice, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, ss to top of beg ch-3. [2 ch-6 sp each side, 9 tr each corner] Round 7 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into next tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into next tr, tr into each of next 4 tr, *2tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into next ch-6 sp, ch6, dc into next ch-6 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, tr into each of next 4 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into next tr, tr into each of next 4 tr; rep from * twice more, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into next ch-6 sp, ch6, dc into next ch-6 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, tr into each of next 2 tr, ss to top of beg ch-3. [1 ch-6 sp each side, 14 tr and ch-3 sp each corner] Round 8 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into each of next 2 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into ch-3 sp, *tr into each of next 7 tr, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into next ch-6 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, tr into each of next 7 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into ch-3 sp; rep from * twice more, tr into each of next 7 tr, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into next ch-6 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, tr into each of next 4 tr, ss to top of beg

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GIFTS ch-3. [2 ch-3 sp each side, 20 tr and ch-3 sp each corner] Round 9 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into ch-3 sp, *tr into each of next 10 tr, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, tr into each of next 10 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into ch-3 sp; rep from * twice, tr into each of next 10 tr, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, tr into each of next 6 tr, ss to top of beg ch-3. [1 ch-3 sp each side, 26 tr and ch-3 sp each corner] Round 10 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip 1 tr, 5-tr cl into next tr, ch1, skip 1 tr, tr into next tr, *(tr, ch3, tr) into corner ch-3 sp, tr into next tr, (ch1, skip 1 tr, 5-tr cl into next tr, ch1, skip 1 tr, tr into next tr) 3 times, ch1, 5-tr cl into next ch-3 sp, ch1, tr into next tr, (ch1, skip 1 tr, 5-tr cl into next tr, ch1, skip 1 tr, tr into next tr) 3 times; rep from * twice more, (tr, ch3, tr) into corner ch-3 sp, tr into next tr, (ch1, skip 1 tr, 5-tr cl into next tr, ch1, skip 1 tr, tr into next tr) 3 times, ch1, 5-tr cl into next ch-3 sp, (ch1, tr into next tr, ch1, skip 1 tr, 5-tr cl into next tr) twice, ch1, ss to third ch of beg ch-4. [31 sts each side, ch-3 sp each corner] Round 11 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc into each st and ch around, working 3dc into corner ch-3 sps, ss to first dc to join. [136 sts] Round 12 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into each st around, working 3tr into each corner st, ss to top of beg ch-3. [144 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends.

TO MAKE UP Place two squares WS tog and rejoin yarn to back loop of one corner st. Ch1 (does not count as st), insert hook in back loop of first tr and back loop of opposite tr on other square and work 1dc. Work dc sts through the back loops of each stitch – at the end of this one edge, pick up another two squares and join in the same way as above. Repeat to join another two squares. Repeat the above to join the rem 6 squares. Join the rem edges as above, to form a blanket 4x3 squares. When all squares are joined, rejoin yarn to any outer stitch. Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st around, with 3dc in each corner st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

The combination of treble clusters and lacy chains creates different levels of texture.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK A CLUSTER STITCH (3-TR CLUSTER)

1 Start a treble in the next stitch or space in the usual way: yrh, insert hook, yrh, pull loop through (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through first 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Stop here, without finishing.

36 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

2 Start a 2nd treble in the same stitch/space: yrh, insert hook in the same stitch again, yrh, pull loop through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through first 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Stop here.

3 Start a 3rd treble: yrh, insert hk in same stitch, yrh, pull loop through, yrh, pull through first 2 loops (4 loops on hook). Now finish all three part tr tog: yrh, pull loop through all 4 loops on hook.

4 This is how your completed 3-tr cluster should look. For a 5-tr cluster, work 2 more part treble sts before you finish the cluster. On the next row, work a stitch into the top of the cluster as usual.

Snow StyliSh! Sara Huntington’s cosy hat and mittens duo are inspired by Fair Isle patterns.

WINTER WARDROBE

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he inspiration for Sara’s gorgeous pair of garments came from the cheeky, fun hats worn on ski slopes the world over. The chunky pompoms add a wonderful finishing touch that will brighten any grey winter’s day!

TAKE ON A CHALLENGE

DK WEIGHT

2.5, 3 & 3.5MM

YOU WILL NEED FOR THE HAT Q DROPS Karisma (100% wool, 50g/100m), 2 balls of Blue Turquoise (60), 1 ball of each: Off White (01), Red (18) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A small amount of toy stuffing Q Stitch markers FOR THE MITTS DROPS Karisma (100% wool, 50g/100m), 2 balls of Blue Turquoise (60), 1 ball of each: Off White (01), Red (18) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A 2.5 mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q A small amount of toy stuffing For yarn stockists, contact Wool Warehouse 0800 505 3300 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Q

TENSION Hat: 17 sts and 24 rows of dc to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) with a 3.5mm hook Mitts: 18 sts and 24 rows of dc to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) with a 3.5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Hat: 56cm (22in) circumference Mitts: 19cm (7½in) long, 9cm (3½in) across ‘fingers’ part of mitten

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

38 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

NOTES This hat is worked from the top down in the round and the mittens are worked from the cuff up. Work stitches continuously in a spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work. Change colour with the last yrh of the previous stitch. Where more than one colour is used during one round, carry the unused colour across the back of the work. While working the Stripe Pattern, leave Blue Turquoise joined and carry it up on the inside of the work for a couple of rounds. STRIPE PATTERN Round 1 With Red, 1dc in each dc around, change to Off White. Fasten off Red. Round 2 With Off White, 1dc in each dc around. Round 3 Pick up Blue Turquoise. (1dc in Off White, 1dc in Blue Turquoise) rep to end of round. Round 4 Cont in Off White only, 1dc in each dc around, change to Red. Fasten off Off White. Round 5 With Red, 1dc in each dc around, change to Blue Turquoise. Fasten off Red.

C HAT BODY OF HAT With 3.5mm hook and Blue Turquoise, make a magic loop, 12dc into the loop and ss into first dc. [12 sts] Rounds 1-4 (RS) 1dc in each dc around. [12 dc] Round 5 (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) repeat to end of round. [18 dc] Rounds 6-18 1dc in each dc around. Change to Red. Rounds 19-23 Work the Stripe Pattern. Rounds 24-29 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc in each dc around. Change to Red. Rounds 30-34 Work the Stripe Pattern. Round 35 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc in

each dc around. Round 36 (1dc in each of next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. [24 dc] Rounds 37-40 1dc in each dc around. Change to Red. Rounds 41-45 Work the Stripe Pattern. Round 46 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc in each dc around. Round 47 (1dc in each of next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. [32 dc] Rounds 48-57 1dc in each dc around. Round 58 (1dc in each of next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. [40 dc] Rounds 59-68 1dc in each dc around. Round 69 (1dc in each of next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. [48 dc] Rounds 70-73 1dc in each dc around. Round 74 (1dc in each of next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. [56 dc] Round 75 1dc in each dc around. Round 76 (1dc in each of next 6 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. [64 dc] Round 77 1dc in each dc around. Round 78 (1dc in each of next 7 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. [72 dc] Round 79 1dc in each dc around. Round 80 (1dc in each of next 8 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. [80 dc] Round 81 1dc in each dc around, change to Red. Round 82 (1dc in each of next 9 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. [88 dc] Rounds 83 & 84 Work Rounds 2 and 3 of the Stripe Pattern. Round 85 Cont with Off White only, (1dc in each of next 10 dc, 2dc in next dc) rep to end of round. Change to Red. Fasten off Off White. [96 dc] Round 86 With Red, 1dc in each dc around. Change to Blue Turquoise. Fasten off Red. CHART Rounds 87-103 Continue working in the round and follow the chart for the next 17 rows. There are 32 stitches on the chart to be repeated 3 times in total for each round. [96 dc] Change to Red. Rounds 104-108 Work Stripe Pattern. Fasten off and weave in ends. CROCHET POMPOM With a 3mm hook and Red, make a magic loop, 8dc into the loop and ss to the first dc to join into a ring. Round 1 2dc in each dc around. [16 dc]

WINTER WARDROBE Round 2 1dc into each dc around. Round 3 (1dc into next dc, 2dc into next dc) rep to end of round. [24 dc] Round 4 (1dc into next 2 dc, 2dc into next dc) rep to end of round. [32 dc] Round 5 (1dc into next 3 dc, 2dc into next dc) rep to end of round. [40 dc] Round 6 1dc into each dc around, change to Blue Turquoise, do not fasten off Red. Round 7 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc into each dc around, change to Off White. Fasten off Blue Turquoise. Round 8 With Off White 1dc into each dc around. Round 9 Pick up Red, (1dc in Off White, 1dc in Red) rep to end of round. Round 10 Cont in Off White only, 1dc in each dc around. Change to Blue Turquoise. Fasten off Off White. Round 11 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc in each dc around. Change to Red. Fasten off Blue Turquoise. Rounds 12-13 With Red, 1dc in each dc around. Round 14 (1dc into next 3 dc, dc2tog), repeat to end of round. [32 dc] Round 15 (1dc into next 2 dc, dc2tog) rep to end of round. [24 dc] Round 16 1dc into each dc around. Stuff the ball firmly. Round 17 (1dc into next dc, dc2tog) rep to end of round. [16 dc] Round 18 (dc2tog) 8 times. [8 dc] TO FINISH Sew the top closed, leaving a long tail to attach the pompom to the hat. Sew pompom in place. MITTENS CUFF With a 3.5mm hook and Blue Turquoise, ch32. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), 1tr into each chain around. [32 tr] Round 2 (1FPtr, 1BPtr) repeat around. Repeat Round 2 until the cuff measures 6cm. Do not fasten off. Round 1 1dc in each stitch around. [32 dc] Round 2 (Eyelet round) (3dc, ch1, skip next dc) 7 times, 3dc, ch1, skip last dc ready to work next st in the first st of the next round. [8 eyelet holes] Round 3 Working into dc stitches and ch-1 sps alike, 14dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc,

2dc in next st, 14dc. [34 dc] Round 4 1dc in each dc around. Round 5 15dc, 2dc into next dc, 2dc, 2dc into next dc, 15dc. [36 dc] Round 6 1dc in each dc around. Round 7 16dc, 2dc into next dc, 2dc, 2dc into next dc, 16dc. [38 dc] Round 8 1dc into each dc around. Round 9 17dc, 2dc into next dc, 2dc, 2dc into next dc, 17dc. [40 dc] Round 10 1dc in each dc around. Round 11 18dc, 2dc into the next dc, 2dc, 2dc into the next dc, 18dc. [42 dc] Round 12 1dc into each dc around. Round 13 19dc, 2dc into the next dc, 2dc, 2dc into the next dc, 19dc. [44 dc] Round 14 1dc into each dc around. Round 15 20dc, 2dc into next dc, 2dc, 2dc into next dc, 20dc. [46 dc] Round 16 1dc into each dc around. Round 17 21dc, 2dc into the next dc, 2dc, 2dc into the next dc, 21dc. [48 dc] Round 18 1dc into each dc around. SHAPE THUMB Round 19 17dc, skip 14 dc, 1dc into each of next 17dc. [34 dc exc thumb] Rounds 20-24 1dc into each dc around. Rounds 25-29 To hide the ‘jog’ in the pattern that will occur at the start of a new round, work 17dc in Blue Turquoise, which will take you up to the thumb crease. Take the next stitch as the new start of the round from this point onwards, and work the 4 rounds of the Stripe Pattern, as written for the Hat. Round 30 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc into each dc around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

BOBBLES (MAKE 4) With a 2.5mm hook and Red, make a magic loop, 8dc into the loop and ss to the first dc to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) 2dc into each dc around. [16 dc] Round 2 1dc into each dc around, change to Blue Turquoise, do not fasten off Red. Round 3 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc into each dc around, change to Off White, do not fasten off Blue Turquoise. Round 4 With Off White, 1dc into each dc around. Change to Blue Turquoise. Fasten off Off White. Round 5 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc into each dc around. Change to Red. Fasten off Blue Turquoise. Round 6 With Red, 1dc into each dc around. Round 7 (Dc2tog) 8 times. [8 dc] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the bobble firmly with a small amount of toy stuffing. Using a darning needle, thread the tail of yarn in a running stitch around the top of the bobble and pull tight to close. Fasten off and weave in ends. TIE With a 2.5mm hook and Red, ch85. Fasten off. TO FINISH Thread the Tie through the eyelets above the ribbing. Sew a Bobble to each end and tie in a bow.

Read the chart from bottom to top, and all rounds are read from right to left (left to right if you are left-handed).

Diagram C 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 30

25

20

15

10

Key Blue Turquoise Off White

5

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Discover all the ideas, inspiration and crafting supplies you could ever dream of!

S 2016 W O H S N M U T U A

Crafts for Christmas/ Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts

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It’s A wrAp! Bundle up in Hannah Cross’s jumbo-sized woolly scarf.

WINTER WARDROBE

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o cosy, so cuddly, so soft, so comforting. What more could you want? This giant scarf easily doubles as a wrap and will keep your neck and shoulders warm in chilly temperatures. Wear it for evening parties or every day when you’re out and about. It’s crocheted in a stripy combo of warm, neutral and rich colours in 100% wool yarn, which together gives a sumptuous look and feel. Though the bobble rows may at first look challenging, in fact they’re easy to achieve using treble stitches.

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

CHUNKY WEIGHT

10MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Twilley’s Freedom Wool (100%

wool, 50m/50g), 12 balls of Yarn A Oyster (1122), 4 balls of Yarn B Misty Morning (1120) Q Erika Knight Maxi Wool (100% wool, 80m/100g), 2 skeins of Yarn C Pretty (212), 2 skeins of Yarn D Artisan (206) Q A 10mm (US N/15) hook For yarn stockists, contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk

TENSION 10sts and 10 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in)

MEASUREMENTS Approx 40x175cm (15¾x69in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

42 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

C SCARF With Yarn A ch41. Row 1 (WS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [40 dc] Row 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in back loop only of each dc across, turn. Rows 3-9 Rep Row 2. Rows 10-12 Change to Yarn B, rep Row 2. Rows 13-14 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 15 Change to Yarn B, rep Row 2. Row 16 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 17 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2. Row 18 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 19 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2. Row 20 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 21 Change to Yarn B, rep Row 2. Row 22 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 23 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2. Row 24 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 25 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2. Row 26 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 27 Change to Yarn B, rep Row 2. Rows 28-29 Change to Yarn A, rep

Row 2. Rows 30-32 Change to Yarn B, rep Row 2. Rows 33-41 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Rows 42-43 Change to Yarn D, rep Row 2. Row 44 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 45 Change to Yarn D, ch1, ss in first 2 dc, *3-tr cl in next st, ss in next 3 dc; rep from * across to last 6 sts, (3-tr cl in next st, ss in next 2 dc) twice, turn. Rows 46-48 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 49 Change to Yarn C, ch1, ss in first 4 dc, *3-tr cl in next st, ss in next 3 dc; rep from * across, turn. Rows 50-51 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Rows 52-53 Change to Yarn B, rep Row 2. Row 54 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 55 Repeat Row 49. Rows 56-58 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Row 59 Repeat Row 45. Row 60 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Rows 61-62 Change to Yarn D, rep Row 2. Rows 63-113 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2. Rows 114-174 Starting at Row 62, repeat the rows in reverse order, working backwards to Row 2. When you reach Row 9 you will need to change to Yarn A. Row 175 Rep Row 2. Fasten off and weave in ends.

WinteR sun Beat the chill with Kath Webber’s chunky, slouchy hats and mitts.

WINTER WARDROBE

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hese supersized hats can be worn two ways: turn up the chunky cuff for a snug bobble hat, or leave it down for a slouchy beanie. The ribbed cuff is worked first, using rows of half treble stitches in the back loops only. This strip is then joined and the rest of the hat is worked along the long edge in the round. Team your hat with a pair of textured mitts, complete with bobbles made from contrasting yarn, then hit the slopes, high street or wherever else you plan to stand out from the crowd!

IMPROVE CHUNKY YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

8MM 10MM

YOU WILL NEED FOR THE STRIPY HAT Q Twilley’s Freedom Wool (100% wool, 50g/50m), 2 balls each of: Yarn A Oyster (1122) Yarn B Misty Morning (1120) FOR THE SPOTTY HAT Knight Fat Maxi Wool (100% wool, 100g/80m), 2 skeins of Yarn A Pretty (212), 1 skein of Yarn B Artisan (206)

Q Erika

FOR BOTH HATS 8mm (US L/11) hook for small/medium size Q A 10mm (US N/15) hook for large/extra-large size Q 8.5cm (3¼in) pompom maker Q Tapestry needle Q An

FOR THE SPOTTY MITTS Q Erika Knight Fat Maxi Wool

(100% wool, 100g/80m), 1 skein of Yarn A Artisan (206) Q Twilley’s Freedom Wool (100% wool, 50g/50m), 1 ball of Yarn B Misty Morning (1120) Q A 10mm (US N/15) hook For yarn stockists, contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Hats (ex pompom): 32cm (12½in) tall, S/M 53cm (20¾in) circ, L/XL 60cm (23½in) circ. Mitts: 14cm (5½in) long, 21cm (8¼in) circ

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130. 44 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

NOTES Change colour in the last yrh of the previous stitch. When changing colour mid-row, twist ends of two colours together. Rather than cutting the yarn after each colour change, leave it hanging on WS, ready to pick up at next colour change. Use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round to help count rows.

C STRIPY HAT CUFF With an 8mm hook for S/M size or a 10mm hook for X/XL size and Yarn A, ch12 to begin ribbed cuff. Row 1 (RS) Htr into 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch do not count as st), htr into each ch across, turn. [10 sts] Row 2 (WS) Ch2 (does not count as htr), htr into back loop of each htr across, turn. Rows 3-31 As Row 2. Row 32 (WS) Place short edges tog, ch1, htr into front loop of each st across, and into the ch row of short end at same time. Do not fasten off. BODY OF HAT Turn cuff piece so you’re now working on long edge. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), work 35tr evenly around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [36 sts] Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc into back loop of each st around, ss to first dc. Change to Yarn B. Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr into each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. Round 4 Ch1, dc into back loop of each st around, ss to first dc. Rounds 5-6 As Rounds 3-4 in Yarn A. Rounds 7-8 As Rounds 3-4 in Yarn B. Rounds 9-10 As Rounds 3-4 in Yarn A.

Rounds 11-12 As Rounds 3-4 in Yarn B. Round 13 With Yarn A, ch3 (counts as tr), tr into each of next 3 sts, tr2tog, (tr into each of next 4 sts, tr2tog) 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [30 sts] Round 14 Ch1, (dc into each of next 3 sts, dc2tog) 6 times, ss to first dc. [24 sts] Change to Yarn B. Round 15 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next st, tr2tog, (tr into each of next 2 sts, tr2tog) 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-3. [18 sts] Round 16 Ch1, dc2tog around. [9 sts] Fasten off Yarn B. Change to Yarn A. Round 17 Ch1, (tr2tog) 4 times, tr in last st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. TO MAKE UP Using a large, blunt tapestry needle, pass the tail end of yarn through the rem sts and pull tightly to close. Use an 8.5cm (3¼in) pompom maker or cardboard disc method to make a large pompom, and sew to hat top. Weave in ends. SPOTTY HAT NOTES The hat is made using tapestry crochet. There is a chart to refer to on page 45. CUFF With an 8mm hook for S/M size or a 10mm hook for X/XL size and Yarn A, work Cuff as given for Stripy Hat. Fasten off Yarn A. BODY OF HAT Round 1 (RS) Join in Yarn B in any stitch, ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc into each row end around, ss to first dc. [32 sts] Round 2 Ch1, dc into each dc around, ss to first dc. Rounds 3-13 Work as given for Round 2, following the chart for each round, beginning at bottom-right edge. Round 14 Cont with colour changes as given in chart, this row begins to decrease. Ch1, dc into each of next 3 sts, skip 1 st, (dc into each of next 7 sts, skip 1 st) 3 times, 1dc into each of next 4 sts, ss to first dc. [28 sts] Round 15 Cont in Yarn B only, ch1, dc into each of next 2 sts, (dc2tog, dc into each of next 5 sts) 3 times, dc2tog, 1dc into each of next 3 sts, ss to first dc.

WINTER WARDROBE Turn up the chunky ribbed cuff on this hat for a snug fit

[24 sts] Round 16 Ch1, (dc into next st, dc2tog) 6 times, ss to first dc. [18 sts] Round 17 (Dc2tog) 9 times. [9 sts] Round 18 Ch1, (dc into next st, dc2tog) 3 times. [6 sts] Round 19 (Dc2tog) 3 times. [3 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. TO MAKE UP Using a large, blunt tapestry needle, pass the tail end of yarn through the rem sts and pull tightly to close. Use an 8.5cm (3¼in) pompom maker or cardboard disk method to make a large pompom, and sew to hat top. Weave in ends. SPOTTY MITTS SPECIAL ABBREVIATION Foundation dc (fdc) Worked instead of foundation ch: Ch2, dc in second ch from hook, adding ch1 before last yrh of dc. *Dc in ch-1 of previous st, adding ch1 before last yrh of dc; repeat from * until you have the number of dc stated. NOTES The mitts are made in the round from the top down, with a contrast bobble on back of each one plus a thumbhole. LEFT MITT With a 10mm hook and Yarn A, place a slipknot onto hook leaving a 15cm (6in) tail. Foundation round 1 15fdc, ss into first fdc to join into the round, being careful not to twist. Use tail to sew the gap at the base of the round closed. [15 sts] Rounds 2-4 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Round 5 Ch1, 2dc, ch5, skip 3 dc, 3dc, change to Yarn B, 3-tr cluster in next dc, change to Yarn A, dc in each st to end, ss to first dc. Round 6 Ch1, dc in each st and ch around, ss to first dc. [17 sts] Round 7 Ch1, 8dc, change to Yarn B, 3-tr cluster in next dc, change to Yarn A, 3dc, change to Yarn B, 3-tr cluster in next dc, change to Yarn A, dc in each st to end, ss to first dc. Rounds 8-9 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Round 10 Ch1, 4dc, dc2tog, 11dc, ss into first dc. [16 sts] Round 11 Ch1, 3dc, dc2tog, 11dc, ss

into first dc. [15 sts] Round 12 Ch1, 3dc, dc2tog, 10dc, ss to first dc. [14 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. RIGHT MITT Rounds 1-4 Work as for Left Mitt. Round 5 Ch1, 6dc, change to Yarn B, 3-tr cluster in next dc, change to Yarn A, 3dc, ch5, skip 3 dc, dc in each st to end, ss to first dc. Round 6 Ch1, dc in each st around ch around, ss to first dc. [17 sts] Round 7 Ch1, 4dc, change to Yarn B, 3-tr cluster in next dc, change to Yarn A, 3dc, change to Yarn B, 3-tr cluster in next dc, change to Yarn A, dc in each st to end, ss to first dc. Rounds 8-9 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc. Round 10 Ch1, 11dc, dc2tog, 4dc, ss to first dc. [16 sts] Round 11 Ch1, 11dc, dc2tog, 3dc, ss to

first dc. [15 sts] Round 12 Ch1, 10dc, dc2tog, 3dc, ss to first dc. [14 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends.

CHART FOR SPOTTY HAT 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3

Key Yarn A Yarn B No stitch

5 Pattern repeat

Each square represents 1dc st. Read all rows from right to left. Begin at bottom right. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 45

WINTER WARDROBE

thE big chilL Envelop yourself in an oh-so wearable, relaxed-fit jumbo cardi designed by Simone Francis.

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WINTER WARDROBE

W

hat happens when you mix relaxed, everyday style with dressing gown levels of comfort? A rather marvellous snuggly cardigan, that’s what. This understated design by Simone Francis boasts three-quarter-length sleeves, a chic shawl collar, and super-chunky wool and alpaca mix softness. You’ll be using front and back post trebles to achieve the scrumptious ribbed texture around the cuffs and hem, and half trebles to create the rest of the garment. What are you waiting for? Get your hooks out!

IMPROVE SUPER YOUR SKILLS CHUNKY

10MM 12MM

NOTES The main body of the cardigan is worked sideways: one front side and half of the back, then repeated for the opposite side. A seam is worked to join the back sections. The sleeves are then worked separately, from the bottom up. Once sewn together, a rib welt is then picked up around the lower edge and then a shawl collar added. Each row is started with (ss, ch1) into the first st – this forms the first st with a neat st. The final htr st is worked into the ch-1 of the (ss, ch1).

YOU WILL NEED QDebbie Bliss Roma

(70% wool, 30% alpaca, 100g/80m), Steel (53003), see table for yarn quantities and measurements QA 10mm (US N/15) hook QA 12mm (US O/17) hook QTapestry needle For yarn stockists, contact Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarns.uk.com

C LEFT FRONT AND BACK When finished, this piece will be folded at the shoulder with the foundation chain joined to form the side seam.

TENSION 6½ sts and 5½ rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over htr using a 12mm hook or size needed to obtain tension

ABBREVIATIONS

75 (76: 78: 79)cm 29¼ (30: 30½: 31)in

28cm 11in

ACTUAL BUST

LENGTH FRONT

SLEEVE LENGTH 54.5 (62: 69: 76.5)cm 21½ (24½: 27¼: 30)in

YARN

DIVIDE FOR BACK Row 1 (RS) (Ss, ch1) into first st, 37 (38: 39: 40) htr, turn leaving remaining sts unworked for Front. [38 (39: 40: 41) sts] Row 2 (Ss, ch1) into first st, htr in each st to end, turn. Repeating Row 2, work two more rows in htr st. Fasten off, leaving a long end for sewing the Back seam. RIGHT FRONT AND BACK Work as given for Left Front and Back to **.

S

M

L

XL

cm

81-91

97-102

107-112

117-122

in

32-36

38-40

42-44

46-48

cm

109

124

138

153

in

43

48¾

54½

60

SIZE TO FIT BUST

SHOULDER SHAPING Row 1 (WS) (Ss, ch1) into first st, 36 (37: 38: 39) htr, (2htr into next st) twice, htr in each st to end, turn. [78 (80: 82: 84) sts] Row 2 Work in htr st, without shaping: (Ss, ch1) into first st, htr into each st to end, turn. Repeat Rows 1-2. [80 (82: 84: 86) sts] Row 5 Work as Row 2.**

DIVIDE FOR BACK Break yarn and skip 42 (43: 44: 45) sts, rejoin yarn to the following st with a ss and cont as follows:

With a 12mm hook, ch 78 (80: 82: 84) with a loose and even tension. Foundation row (WS) Htr into the 3rd

For a full list, see page 130.

ch from hook (skipped ch do not count as st), htr in each st to end, turn. [76 (78: 80: 82) sts] Row 1 (RS) (Ss, ch1) into first st (counts as a st throughout), htr into each st to end, turn. Repeating Row 1, work 4 (6: 8: 10) more rows.

cm

75

76

78

79

in

29¼

30

30½

31

cm

28

28

28

28

in

11

11

11

11

100g balls

11

12

13

14

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.

48 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

WINTER WARDROBE Row 1 (RS) (1dc, ch1) into first st, htr in each st to end, turn. [38 (39: 40: 41) sts] Row 2 (Ss, ch1) into first st, htr in each st to end, turn. Repeating Row 2, work 2 more rows in htr st. Fasten off, leaving a long end for sewing the Back seam. SLEEVES (MAKE 2) RIB WELT With a 10mm hook, ch30 (32: 34: 36). Foundation row Tr into the 4th ch from hook (counts as 2 tr), tr in each st to end, turn. [28 (30: 32: 34) sts] Row 1 Ch2 (counts as first st), *1FPtr in next st, 1BPtr in next st; repeat from * to end, working 1tr into turning ch, turn. Repeat Row 1, four times more. MAIN SLEEVE Change to 12mm hook. Row 1 (RS) (Ss, ch1) into first st, htr in each st to end, turn. Row 2 (Ss, ch1, htr) into first st (increase st), htr in each st to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [30 (32: 34: 36) sts] Rows 3-4 Work in htr st, without shaping, as Row 1. Row 5 (Ss, ch1, htr) into first st, htr in each st to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [32 (34: 36: 38) sts] Repeat Rows 3-5 once more. [34 (36: 38: 40) sts] Work 2 rows in htr st, without shaping. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up.

TO MAKE UP Join Back and Side seams using your preferred seaming method. Set in Sleeves, carefully pinning in place before sewing them in. LOWER RIB WELT With RS facing and 12mm hook, join yarn with a ss to lower Left Front corner. Foundation row Ch2 (counts as first st), tr evenly 73 (83: 91: 101) sts around lower edge, turn. [74 (84: 92: 102) sts] Change to a 10mm hook. Row 1 Ch2 (counts as first st), *1FPtr in next st, 1BPtr in next st; repeat from * to end, working 1tr into turning ch, turn. Repeat Row 1 eight times more. Fasten off. COLLAR With RS facing and 12mm hook, join yarn with a ss to lower Right Front corner. Foundation row Ch2 (counts as htr), htr 8 sts evenly along Rib welt, 44 (45: 46: 47) htr up Right Front, 14htr around Back Neckline, 44 (45: 46: 47) htr down Left Front, 9htr along Rib welt, turn. [120 (122: 124: 126) sts] Row 1 (Ss, ch1) in first st, htr into each st to end, turn. Repeat Row 1 five times more. Fasten off.

The generous, relaxed fit of this cardigan means you can really wrap up warm in it.

The cardigan’s three-quarter-length sleeves are topped off with wide ribbed cuffs.

TO FINISH Weave in all ends neatly.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK A FRONT POST TREBLE STITCH

1 Identify the post of the next stitch. Then work yrh (as usual for a treble stitch) and insert hook into the front of the fabric, around the back of the post, and bring out hook on other side of post.

2 Work the rest of the stitch as you usually would for a treble, so yrh and carefully pull the loop of yarn out of the fabric – it should loop around the post of the stitch.

3 Work yrh again and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops. Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops to complete the front post treble stitch.

4 You’ll see how the stitch is raised up, compared to the rest of the fabric. Work more front post treble stitches in the same way, repeating from Step 1.

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FREE! 28 GIFT TAGS & GREETINGS CARDS

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order your copy today! Call 0844 844 0388 and quote ‘Mollie Christmas 16’ Online www.buysubscriptions.com/craftspecial Lines open weekdays 8am to 8pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm. Overseas please call +44 (0) 1795 414 676. EUR price £12.99, ROW price £13.49. All prices include p&p.

WINTER WARDROBE

So

UPCY cool! SWEACLE A TER

leT it Snow Customise your own Christmas jumper with Louise Smith’s pretty appliqué project.

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WINTER WARDROBE

L

ove them or hate them, it seems Christmas jumpers are here to stay. Why not put your own handmade twist on the trend by decorating an old plain jumper to make a new festive favourite? A flurry of fairly simple motifs is arranged to create a subtle bauble shape. There are six different shapes to make, each one worked in white cotton DK yarn with a hint of sparkle. As novelty jumpers go, this one is firmly at the stylish end of the spectrum – something you’ll be proud to wear. Get hooking!

EASY-PEASY TO MAKE

DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QWendy Supreme Luxury Cotton

Sparkle DK (100% mercerised cotton, 100g/201m), 1 ball of 1910 (White) QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook QA plain jumper For yarn stockists, contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Overall motif measures 25cm (9¾in) diameter Snowflake motifs measure 4cm (1½in), 5cm (2in), 6cm (2¼in) and 9cm (3½in) diameter from Small to Extra Large

ABBREVIATIONS Front and Back loop stitch (fbl) Insert hook in the front loop of the next st, yrh and draw yarn through, insert hook in the back loop of the same st, yrh and draw yarn through, yrh and draw through all loops on hook. You can replace this stitch in the pattern with a double crochet stitch if you find it easier. Picot stitches Work the number of ch stated (eg 5 ch for a ch-5 picot), ss in the first of those ch. For a full list, see page 130.

C SMALL SNOWFLAKE (MAKE 4) Make a magic loop and ch1 into loop to secure. Round 1 (RS) *Ch4, tr in second ch from hook, ss in each of 2 ch down to first ch, ss in magic loop; repeat from * 7 times more. Fasten off and weave in ends. MEDIUM SNOWFLAKE (MAKE 3) Make a magic loop and ch1 into loop to secure. Round 1 (RS) *Ch2, (ch-2 picot) twice, ss at base of picots, dc into magic loop, ch1, (ch-2 picot) twice, ss at base of picots, dc in magic loop; repeat from * 4 times more, omitting the very last dc, ss to the first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. LARGE SNOWFLAKE (MAKE 3) Make a magic loop and ch1 into loop to secure. Round 1 (RS) *Ch2, (ch-3 picot) 3 times, ss at base of picots, ss in each of beg ch-2 towards loop, dc in magic loop; repeat from * 7 times more, omitting the very last dc, ss to the first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. EXTRA LARGE SNOWFLAKE (MAKE 3) Ch5, ss to first ch to form a ring. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), 17tr into ring, ss to the top of the beginning ch-3. [18 tr] Round 2 *Ss in next 3 tr, ch-5 picot, ch-7 picot, ch-5 picot, ss at base of picots, ss in next 3 tr, ch-7 picot, ch-9 picot, ch-7 picot, ss at base of picots; repeat from * twice more. Fasten off and weave in ends. SNOWDROPS (MAKE 16) Make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as

52 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

st), 6dc in magic loop, ss to the first dc. [7 dc] Fasten off and weave in ends. BAUBLE TOP (MAKE 1) Ch10. Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook and each ch to end, turn. [9 dc] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), fbl in each st to end, turn. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice more. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc, ch13, ss in the first ch of ch-13, dc in same st as previous dc, dc in each st to end. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Block the Snowflakes before sewing on – this will give a neater finish. Or you could just gently iron the jumper on the reverse afterwards. Arrange each Snowflake and Snowdrop to form a circle on the jumper. You might find it helps to tack a temporary circle onto the jumper, using a plate as a guide, and then arrange the snowflake shapes within the circle. Sew each Snowflake and Snowdrop to the jumper, then sew the Bauble Top at the top of the circle.

Make A wisH

A

ith sweet and simple shining w e s i r o star ccess

s.

use metallic y a r n fo r e ! extra sparkl

SPECIAL ABBREVIATION Picot Ch3, ss in the st at the base of the ch just worked. BASIC STAR PATTERN Make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as htr, ch2), (2htr into the loop, ch2) 4 times, htr into loop, ss into the beg ch-2 sp. Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), *(dc, htr, tr, picot, tr, htr, dc) in the ch-2 sp, ss in the sp between 2-htr

of the previous round; repeat from * 4 times more. Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), *2dc, htr, (htr, tr, picot, tr, htr) in the picot of the previous round, htr, 2dc, skip ss; rep from * 4 times more, ss into the first dc. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

LARGE STAR To make a large star, follow Rounds 1-3 Basic Star Pattern.

SMALL STAR To make a small star, follow Rounds 1-2 of the Basic Star Pattern.

Turn over for creative ideas for what you can make with your twinkly star pattern.

You may wish to block your star so it lies completely flat. Pattern by Jennifer May.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 53

make a shape Rare and beautiful, a shooting star is quite a sight to behold.

Have you ever considered wearing a constellation?

ShootIng sTar pUrse siLver oriOn’S belT Update your go-to party clutch bag with a bit of glitz. One simple star makes a world of difference. This project uses unusual memory wire – it’s fun to work with something new.

Highlight your waist and jazz up a dress with this easy peasy, stylish belt, adorned with three silver stars. Silver is our favourite metallic shade. Q Yeoman

Q DMC

Color Infusions Memory Thread (40% copper, 34% viscose, 23% cotton, 3% polyamide, 2.7m), 3 skeins of Silver (6210). For stockists, call 0116 275 4000 QA 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook QA sewing needle and thread MEASUREMENTS Star motif meas 9cm (3½in) diameter STAR Using Silver, follow the Basic Star pattern to make one Large Star. TAILS Cut five varying lengths of Memory Thread. Using the image as a guide, fold the lengths in half and twist them. TO MAKE UP Again, using the image as a guide, stitch the five tails securely onto the back of the star along one edge, making sure the longest is at the top and the shortest is at the bottom. Sew the star onto your bag. 54 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

Angelina 4ply Lurex ribbon (61% polyester 39% nylon 100g/300m), 1 cone of Silver (01) For stockists, call 0116 240 4464 Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A plain elastic waist belt Q A sewing needle and thread MEASUREMENTS Large star: 8cm (3in) diameter Small star: 5cm (2in) diameter

stArdusT shoE clipS Whether or not you can wow with your Charleston, you’ll certainly be able to dance the night away in style with a pair of pretty shoe clips. Just the ticket for your everyday ballet pumps or your best dancing shoes. Q DMC

Metallic (100% polyester, 8m), 2 skeins of Light Gold Precious Metal Effects E677 Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q A pair of shoe clips Q A sewing needle and thread MEASUREMENTS Each motif measures 6cm (2¼in) diameter

STARS Using Angelina, follow the Basic Star pattern to make one Large Star and two Small Stars.

STAR Using Light Gold, follow the Basic Star pattern to make two Large Stars.

TO MAKE UP Using the sewing needle and thread, and the image as a guide, sew the three stars securely to the centre back of the belt, with the large star in the middle and the two smaller stars either side of it. Your belt will now fasten at the back. For an even bigger constellation, simply make more stars (there’s a lot of yarn on the cone).

TO MAKE UP Using the sewing needle and thread, sew one star securely to each of the shoe clips, making sure that the RS is facing up. To use your shoe clips, simply attach them to the front of your shoes. The beauty of them is that they can be put on any pair. You could make sets in different colours to match your whole shoe collection!

make a shape

Is there anything that wouldn’t look better studded with a host of crochet stars? Now you’re kitted out and ready to shine on into the night. Twinkle, twinkle, little star.

WINTER WARDROBE

EASY-PEASY TO MAKE

CHUNKY WEIGHT

9MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q Twilley’s Freedom Wool (100%

wool, 49m/50g), 1 ball of Yarn A Oyster (1122) Q Erika Knight Maxi Wool (100% wool, 80m/100g), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Pretty (212) Yarn C Artisan (206) Q A 9mm (US M/13) hook For yarn stockists, contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk

super speedy make!

TENSION 11 sts and 7 rows to 10x10cm (4x4in)

MEASUREMENTS Each topper measures 26x40cm (10¼x15¾in) around with plenty of stretch

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

Top tOpperS Hannah Cross’s chunky boot toppers are the perfect stocking filler.

A

dd some pizzazz to your boot collection this winter with these decorative toppers. Made in big and bold chunky yarn, they’re ideal for keeping calves warm and looking stylish in the park or on the piste. They make a quick and easy gift idea, too!

C TOPPERS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, ch29. Row 1 (RS) Htr in 2nd ch from hook and next 13 ch, dc in next 14 ch, turn. [28 Bold brights or pale and interesting pastels – just pick three shades and get hooking! sts] 56 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

Row 2 Change to Yarn B, ch1 (does not count as st), htr in back loop only of first 14 sts, dc in front loop only of rem 14 sts, turn. Row 3 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2. Rows 4-24 Repeat Row 2 working through each colour in this order: A, B, C. Do not fasten off. TO MAKE UP Fold the topper in half and dc into the foundation ch to join into a tube. Fasten off and weave in ends.

WINTER WARDROBE

So p retty! DEL ICA STYL TE E

Jewel purposE Drape yourself in diamonds with this beautiful scarf by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz.

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WINTER WARDROBE

IMPROVE 4PLY YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

NOTE The shawl is made from individual motifs, which are worked from bottom to top in rows. These are then joined together and an edging is added all the way around.

4MM HOOK

C DIAMOND MOTIF (MAKE 28) Ch3, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Row 1 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), (100% wool, 100g/361m), 4tr into ring, turn. 2 skeins of Vermillion (011) Row 2 (RS) Ch3, 4tr in first tr from QA 4mm (US G/6) hook Row 1, skip next tr, dc in tr, skip next tr, For yarn stockists, contact 5tr in last tr, turn. Loop 020 7288 1160 Row 3 Ch3, 4tr in first tr from Row 2, www.loopknittingshop.com skip next tr, dc in tr, ch5, skip 4 tr, dc in next tr, skip next tr, 5tr in last tr, turn. TENSION Row 4 Ch3, 4tr in first tr from Row 3, One motif meas 10x12cm (4x4¾in) skip next tr, dc in next tr, ch5, 5-tr cluster in ch-5 sp, ch5, skip 2 tr, dc in MEASUREMENTS next tr, skip next tr, 5tr in last tr, turn. Finished shawl meas 80x145cm Row 5 Ch3, 4tr in first tr from Row 4, (31½x57in) after blocking skip next tr, dc in next tr, ch5, dc in first ch-5 sp, ch5, dc in next ch-5 sp, ch5, ABBREVIATIONS skip 2 tr, dc in next tr, skip next tr, 5tr in 5-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in space last tr, turn. indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and Row 6 Ch3, 4tr in first tr from Row 5, draw through 2 loops) 5 times, inserting the skip next tr, dc in next tr, ch5, dc in next hook in the same space each time, yrh and ch-5 sp, ch5, 5-tr cluster in next ch-5 sp, draw through all loops on hook. ch5, dc in ch-5 sp, ch5, skip 2 tr, dc in Picot Ch3, ss in first ch. next tr, skip next tr, 5tr in last tr, turn. For a full list, see page 130.

YOU WILL NEED

QMadelinetosh Tosh Sock

JOINING SHAWL MOTIF

Join the seams in this direction

For the seam joining detail see the diagram to the right

Row 7 Ss in next 2 tr, dc in next tr, skip 2 tr, 5tr in dc, (dc in next ch-5 sp, ch5) 3 times, dc in next ch-5 sp, 5tr in next dc, skip next 2 tr, dc in next tr, turn. Row 8 Ss in dc and next 2 tr, dc in next tr, skip 2 tr, 5tr in dc, dc in ch-5 sp, ch5, 5-tr cluster in ch-5 sp, ch5, dc in ch-5 sp, 5tr in dc, skip 2 tr, dc in next tr, turn. Row 9 Ss in dc and next 2 tr, dc in tr, skip 2 tr, 5tr in dc, dc in next ch-5 sp, ch5, dc in next ch-5 sp, 5tr in next dc, skip next 2 tr, dc in next tr, turn. Row 10 Ss in dc and next 2 tr, dc in next tr, skip 2 tr, 5tr in dc, dc in ch-5 sp, 5tr in next dc, skip 2 tr, dc in next tr, turn. Row 11 Ss in dc and next 2 tr, dc in next tr, skip 2 tr, 5tr in next dc, skip next 2 tr, dc in next tr. Fasten off. HALF DIAMOND MOTIF (MAKE 6) Repeat Rows 1-6 of Diamond Motif. Fasten off. JOINING MOTIFS Lay out motifs: 1 motif at bottom, 2 motifs on second row, 3 on third row, and so on, until you have placed all 28 motifs and have a triangle with a total of 7 motifs along the top. Place the 6 half motifs along the top to form a straight edge. The motifs are joined using the zigzag chain method (see opposite). With RS facing, *dc in the edge of motif 1, ch2, dc in the corresponding point of motif 3, ch2; repeat from * a total of 12 times evenly spaced along the join of these two motifs. Continue the seam in the same fashion, joining motifs 2 and 5 next, and repeating for further motifs in these two rows. Fasten off once you have joined the half motif at the top. Repeat the process to join the rest of the motifs, working the seams in the direction of the black arrows on the diagram first. Repeat, starting at the bottom-left edge of the shawl to work the seams in the other direction. BORDER Join yarn at one of the points of the shawl and dc evenly all around, working a picot at each point of every motif. TO FINISH Weave in ends.

58 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

WINTER WARDROBE

So s nug! WIN T WRAPER

doUble creaM Indulge yourself with the sumptuous woven texture of this wrap by Lisa Richardson for Rowan.

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WINTER WARDROBE

S

ay hello to the must-make winter accessory: Rowan’s Shivery Wrap. It’s made in super-soft and chunky Cocoon yarn, using simple crossed treble stitches for a gorgeous textured effect and a double layer of warmth. It’s also wide enough to wear in all sorts of ways: draped over your arms like a stole, wrapped around your shoulders, or just knotted into a scarf. The styling options are endless, so have fun with it!

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

CHUNKY WEIGHT

7MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QRowan Cocoon (80% merino

wool, 20% mohair, 100g/115m), 10 balls of Frost (806) QA 7mm (US K/10½ or L/11) hook For yarn stockists, contact Rowan 01484 681881 www.knitrowan.com

TENSION 12 sts and 4 rows (2 patt repeats) to 9.5x9cm (3¾x3½in) using a 7mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Finished scarf measures 39x200cm (15¼x78¾in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

This elegant wrap designed by Lisa Richardson is from Rowan’s Knitting & Crochet Magazine Number 58. To find your nearest stockist, visit www.knitrowan.com or call 01484 681881.

62 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

C WRAP FIRST SECTION Ch51. Foundation row (RS) Skip 4 ch (counts as 1 tr and 1 ch), *over next 3 ch work (3tr into third of these 3 ch, ch3, 3tr into first of these 3 ch), skip 1 ch, 1tr into next ch**, skip 1 ch, rep from * to end, ending last rep at **, turn. [8 patt reps] Now work in patt as folls: Row 1 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), 3tr into st at base of ch-3, skip 3 tr, *1dc into next ch-sp**, skip 1 tr, over next 5 sts work (3tr into fifth of these 5 sts, ch3, 3tr into first of these 5 sts), skip 1 tr, rep from * to end, ending last rep at **, skip 3 tr, 4tr into top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 2 Ch3, skip tr at base of ch-3 and next tr, *over next 5 sts work: (3tr into fifth of these 5 sts, ch3, 3tr into first of these 5 sts), skip 1 tr**, 1dc into next ch-sp, skip 1 tr, rep from * to end, ending last rep at **, 1tr into top of beg ch-3, turn. Rows 1-2 form pattern. Repeat these two rows until work measures 100cm. Fasten off. SECOND SECTION With RS facing, rejoin yarn to ch at base of last st of Foundation Row of First Section and work into foundation chain as follows:

This wrap is so versatile, you can even wear it like a cardigan by securing it with a belt.

Foundation row (RS) Ch3, skip ch at base of ch-3 and next ch, *over next 3 ch work (3tr into third of these 3 ch, ch3, 3tr into first of these 3 ch), skip 1 ch, 1tr into next ch**, skip 1 ch, rep from * to end, ending last rep at **, turn. [8 patt reps] Beg with Row 1, work Rows 1-2 as given for First Section until work measures 100cm from foundation chain. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block gently. SIDE EDGINGS (BOTH ALIKE) With RS facing, rejoin yarn to corner of either long side edge. Ch1 (does not count as st), work one row of dc evenly into row ends, stopping at next corner. Fasten off. Repeat above process along the other long side edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.

WINTER WARDROBE

So s

EASY mart! -H STYL OOK E

raSpberRy bereT Lucy Croft’s simple but super-cool hat is the ultimate accessory – and so quick to make!

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ive any outfit a certain handmade je ne sais quoi with Lucy Croft’s easy-peasy beret, which is cosy and stylish. The simple hat pattern is worked with half treble stitches in a spiral, making it the perfect fun and achievable project for

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

ARAN WEIGHT

5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QSublime Natural Aran

(100% wool, 50g/100m), 2 balls of Dilly (423) QA 5mm (US H/8) hook For yarn stockists, contact Sublime 01924 369666 www.sublimeyarns.com

TENSION Rounds 1-4 measure 8cm (3¼in) in diameter

MEASUREMENTS Hat measures 27cm (10½in) in diameter

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

NOTES The pattern is worked using the amigurumi method. Work stitches continuously in a spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work.

C BERET Ch4, ss to first ch to form a ring. Round 1 Ch2 (counts as htr), 5htr into ring. [6 htr] Round 2 2htr into each htr around. [12 htr] Round 3 Repeat Round 2. [24 htr] Round 4 *Htr in next st, 2htr in next st; repeat from * around. [36 htr] Round 5 *Htr in next 2 sts, 2htr in next st; repeat from * around. [48 htr] Round 6 *Htr in next st, 2htr in next st, htr in next 2 sts; repeat from * around. [60 htr] Round 7 *Htr in next 4 sts, 2htr in next st; repeat from * around. [72 htr] Round 8 *Htr in next 3 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next 2 sts; repeat from * around. [84 htr] Round 9 *2htr in next st, htr in next 6 sts; repeat from * around. [96 htr] Round 10 *Htr in next 4 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next 3 sts; repeat from *

This classic beret is worked in a simple spiral. Keep your tension even for a smooth finish. around. [108 htr] Round 11 *2htr in next st, htr in next 8 sts; repeat from * around. [120 htr] Round 12 *Htr in next 5 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next 4 sts; repeat from * around. [132 htr] Round 13 *2htr in next st, htr in next 10 sts; repeat from * around. [144 htr] Round 14 *Htr2tog, htr in next 4 sts; repeat from * around. [120 htr] Round 15 *Htr in next 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 4 sts; repeat from * around. [108 htr] Round 16 *Htr2tog, htr in next 7 sts; repeat from * around. [96 htr] Round 17 *Htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts; repeat from * around. [72 htr] Rounds 18-19 Dc in each st around. Round 20 Dc in each st around, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO MAKE A HALF TREBLE

1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

64 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).

4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.

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WINTER WARDROBE

So c h WINT ic! E GLAM R

frIend Or fauX Super-glamorous and unbelievably soft, this stole by Nicky Hale is the height of winter luxury.

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EASY PEASY TO MAKE

DK WEIGHT

9MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QLouisa

Harding Luzia (50g/39m, 80% viscose, 20% nylon), 4 balls of Golden (10) QA 9mm (US M/13) hook For yarn stockists, contact Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarns.uk.com

MEASUREMENTS Length 170cm (67in)

TENSION 8 sts and 9 rows measures 10x10cm (4x4in) over double crochet using a 9mm hook

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

or vintage-inspired glamour, you can’t go wrong with this wonderfully simple furry stole. “I’ve always admired the vintage stoles worn by stars of the silver screen,” says designer Nicky Hale. “The design is easy, using just simple double crochet stitches increased and decreased to create the shape. The beauty of this gorgeous yarn is that it does all the work for you and sits so well, it’s hard to tell that it’s a crochet piece.”

The fur yarn will obscure your work a little bit so try to feel your stitches as you work.

C STOLE Ch81. Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook, dc into each ch to end, turn. [80 dc] Rows 2-4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc into each ch to end, turn. Row 5-7 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc into the next dc and in each dc across to the end, turn. [Decreasing by 2 dc each row] Row 8 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc into the next 25 dc, *(2dc into the next dc, dc into the next 4 dc) twice, 2dc into the next dc; repeat from *, dc into the next 25 dc, turn. [78 dc] Row 9 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc into the next dc and in each dc across to end, turn. [76 dc] Row 10 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does not count as a st), dc into the next 23 dc, *(2dc into the next dc, dc into the next 5 dc) twice, 2dc into the next dc*, dc into the next 2 dc; repeat from * to *, dc into the next 23 dc, turn. [80 dc] Row 11 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does

not count as st), dc into the next 22 dc, *(2dc into the next dc, dc into the next 6 dc) twice, 2dc into the next dc*, dc into the next 4 dc; repeat from * to *, dc into the next 22 dc, turn. [84 dc] Rows 12-13 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc into each dc to the end, turn. Row 14 Ss into the first 3 dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc into the next 18 dc, *(2dc into the next dc, dc into the next dc) 6 times*, 2dc into the next dc, dc into the next 4 dc, 2dc into the next dc, dc into the next 5 dc, 2dc into the next dc, dc into the next 4 dc; repeat from * to *, 2dc into the next dc, dc into the next 18 dc, turn. [93 dc] Row 15-19 Ss into the first 3 dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc into each dc to the end, turn. [Decreasing by 3 dc each row] Row 20 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc into the next dc and each dc across to the last 2 dc. Fasten off, leaving the last 2 dc unworked. [74 dc] Weave in ends.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK CHAINS 6

1 Hold the hook and yarn end in your right hand, and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anti-clockwise.

68 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

2 Pull the hook towards the slip knot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pull it through the slip knot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Rep steps 1 and 2 to form a chain.

3 A row of chains looks like this. Hold the chain with your right hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains stated on your pattern.

5

4

3

2

1

4 Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Don’t count your slip knot or the loop on the hook (the ‘working loop’). Ensure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.

WINTER WARDROBE

So f FEST un!

NOVE IVE LTY

figgY puDding Get any Scrooge into the festive mood with Becca Parker’s cute Christmas pudding hat.

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ressing up in silly outfits is an essential part of festive fun, no matter what your age. So what could be more fun than a hat that makes you look like a Christmas pudding? Becca Parker’s novelty hat embellishment is easy to make and is sure to bring a smile to everyone’s face. The topper includes seemingly random droplets for an authentic ‘drizzled cream’ look – finished off with a sprig holly. This really is one accessory that looks good enough to eat!

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

4PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QDROPS Baby Merino (100%

wool, 50g/175m), 1 ball of each: Red (16), Vibrant Green (31), Off White (02) QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook QA plain beanie hat QSewing needle and thread For yarn stockists, contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Christmas pudding topper measures approx 37cm (14½in) circumference Holly leaves measure 8cm (3in) long

ABBREVIATIONS Leaf Point (Dc, ch4, ss into first ch, dc) into st or sp as indicated For a full list, see page 130.

NOTES The Cream Topper and Berries are worked using the amigurumi method – work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a ss. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work.

C CREAM TOPPER With Off White, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into ring. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [12 dc] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [18 dc] Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [24 dc] Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [30 dc] Round 6 (4dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [36 dc] Round 7 (5dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [42 dc] Round 8 (6dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [48 dc] Round 9 (7dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [54 dc] Round 10 (8dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [60 dc] Round 11 (9dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [66 dc] Round 12 (10dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times around. [72 dc] Do not fasten off. CREAM DROPLETS The droplets of cream are worked one by one, back and forth in rows, as part of the final round. When you rejoin the yarn to work Droplet 2 and all subsequent Droplets, the first dc you are instructed to work will be worked in the same stitch as the last stitch on the end of the row of the previous droplet.

70 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

DROPLET 1 Working in next 5 sts only: *dc in each of next 5 dc, turn, ch1 (does not count as st); repeat from * until droplet measures 3cm long. Next row 6tr in third of 5 dc, ss to last dc. Fasten off. DROPLET 2 With RS facing, rejoin yarn in st at bottom-left edge of droplet just worked. Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in same st, ss in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, turn. Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip 1dc, dc in each of next 2 dc, turn. [3 dc] Working in next 3 sts only: *Ch1, dc in each of next 3 dc, turn; repeat from * until droplet measures 2cm ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Ch1, 5dc into second of 3 dc, ss to last dc. Fasten off. DROPLET 3 With RS facing, rejoin yarn in st at bottom-left edge of droplet just worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts, turn. Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip 1dc, dc in each of next 4 dc, turn. [5 dc] Working in next 5 sts only: *Ch1, dc in each of next 5 dc, turn; repeat from * until droplet measures 4cm ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Ch1, 6tr into third of 5 dc, ss to last dc. Fasten off. DROPLET 4 With RS facing, join yarn in st at bottom-left edge of droplet just worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in next st, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 6 dc, turn. Next row Ch1, dc in each of next 7 dc, 2dc in next dc, ss in side of last droplet, turn. [9 dc] Next row 2dc in each of next 2 dc, 7dc, turn. [11 dc] Next row Ch1, dc in each of next 11 dc, ss in side of last droplet, turn. Next row Dc in each of next 11 dc, turn. Next row Ch1, dc in each of next 11 dc, ss in side of last droplet, turn. Next row Ss in each of next 4 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 6 dc, turn. [8 dc]

WINTER WARDROBE Working in next 7 sts only: *Ch1, dc in each of next 7 dc, turn; repeat from * until droplet measures 4cm ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Ch1, 9ttr in fourth of 7 dc, ss to final dc. Fasten off. DROPLET 5 With RS facing, join yarn in st at bottom-left edge of droplet just worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in next 2 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 dc, turn. Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip 1dc, dc in each of next 2 dc, turn. [3 dc] Working in next 3 sts only: *Ch1, dc in each of next 3 dc, turn; repeat from * until droplet measures 3cm ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Ch1, 5dc in second of 3 dc, ss to last dc. Fasten off. DROPLET 6 With RS facing, join yarn in st at bottom-left edge of droplet just worked. Ch1, dc in same st, dc in next st, ss in next 2 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 dc, turn. Working in next 5 sts only: *Ch1, dc in each of next 5 dc, turn; repeat from * until droplet measures 2cm ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Ch1, 6tr in third of 5 dc, ss to last dc. Fasten off. DROPLET 7 With RS facing, join yarn in st at bottom-left edge of droplet just worked. Ch1, dc in same st, dc in next st, ss in each of next 3 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 dc, turn. Next row Ch1, dc in next st, skip 1dc, dc in each of next 4 dc, turn. [5 dc] Next row Ch1, dc in each of next 5 dc, turn. Next row Ch1, 6tr in third of 5 dc, ss to last dc. Fasten off. DROPLET 8 With RS facing, join yarn in st at bottom-left edge of droplet just worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in next 2 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 dc, turn. Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip 1dc,

dc in each of next 4 dc, turn. [5 dc] Working in next 5 sts only: *Ch1, dc in each of next 5 dc, turn; repeat from * until droplet measures 4cm ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Ch1, 6tr in third of 5 dc, ss to last dc. Fasten off. DROPLET 9 With RS facing, join yarn in st at bottom-left edge of droplet just worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in each of next 3 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 6 dc, turn. Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip next dc, dc in each of next 6 dc, turn. [7 dc] Working in next 7 sts only: *Ch1, dc in each of next 7 dc, turn; repeat from * until droplet measures 1cm ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Ch1, 9tr in fourth of 7 dc, ss to last dc. Fasten off. DROPLET 10 With RS facing, join yarn in st at bottom-left edge of droplet just worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in each of next 3 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 dc, turn. This should leave 1 st remaining between this droplet and the first. Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip next dc, dc in each of next 2 dc, turn. [3 dc] Working in next 3 sts only: *Ch1, dc in each of next 3 dc, turn; repeat from * until droplet measures 5cm ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) Ch1, 5dc in second of 3dc, ss to last dc. Fasten off and weave in all ends. HOLLY LEAF (MAKE 3) Using Vibrant Green, ch14. Round 1 Starting in second ch from hook, dc in each of next 3 ch, htr in each of next 2 ch, tr in each of next 3 ch, htr in each of next 2 ch, dc in each of next 3 ch, ch2, rotate to work into other side of foundation ch: dc in each of next 3 ch, htr in each of next 2 ch, tr in each of next 3 ch, htr into each of next 2 ch, dc in each of next 3 ch, ch2, ss into first dc. [16 sts and 2 ch-2 sps] Round 2 Ss into next dc, dc in next dc, Leaf Point in next htr, dc in next htr, ss in next tr, dc in next tr, Leaf Point in next tr, ss in next htr, dc in next htr, Leaf

Try not to squash the berries when sewing them on – they should look plump and juicy.

If the whole pudding is too much, just make a few simple holly leaves to decorate your hat.

Point in next dc, ss in next 2 dc, Leaf Point in next ch-2 sp, ss in next 2 dc, Leaf Point in next dc, dc in next htr, ss in next htr, Leaf Point in next tr, dc in next tr, ss in next tr, dc in next htr, Leaf Point in next htr, dc in next dc, ss in next 2 dc, ss in next ch-2 sp, ch4, (skip first ch, dc in each of next 3 ch) working back along ch-4, ss to ch-2 sp. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up. BERRY (MAKE 3) Using Red, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into ring. Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [10 dc] Rounds 3-4 1dc in each dc around. Round 5 (Dc2tog) 5 times around. [5 dc] Round 6 (Dc2tog) twice, 1dc. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up. TO MAKE UP Using the needle and thread, carefully sew the cream topper to the top of the hat. Arrange the leaves and berries on the top of the hat. Once you’re happy with the placement, sew them in position using a needle and the long tails. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 71

WINTER WARDROBE

So p r SEAS etty! ON CARD AL I

crAnberRy lacE Fran Morgan’s stylish and cosy cardigan is a must-have for the Christmas party season.

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BORDER PATTERN Worked over a multiple of 12 + 5 sts. Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in first st, *ch3, skip each of next 3 sts, (dc in next st, ch1, skip next st) 4 times, dc in next st; rep from * to last 4 sts, ch3, skip next 3 sts, dc in last st, turn. Row 2 Ch1, dc in first st, *(dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch3, skip next 3 sts, dc in next ch-sp, ch1, skip next st, dc in next ch-sp, ch3, skip next 3 sts; rep from * to last 4 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-3 sp, dc in last st, turn. Row 3 Ch1, dc in first st, *ch1, dc in next ch-sp, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch3, skip next 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * to last 4 sts, ch1, dc in next ch-sp, ch1, dc in last st, turn. Row 4 Ch1, dc in first st, *dc in next ch-sp, ch1, dc in next ch-sp, ch3, skip next 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch3, skip next 3 sts; rep from * to last 4 sts, dc in next ch-sp, ch1, dc in next ch-sp, dc in last st, turn. Row 5 Ch1, dc in first st, *ch3, skip next 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch1, dc in next ch-sp, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * to last 4 sts, ch3, dc in last st, turn. Rows 2-5 set pattern.

ade for yourself or someone special, our festive cardigan will transform anyone into the perfect Christmas hostess. Cut high at the waist, it’s a wonderful little cover-up to wear over a dress or just a plain top. It’s the little details you’ll love though: the rib at the cuffs and hem, and the lacy pattern that runs around the yoke and down each front. Yuletide bliss.

TAKE ON A CHALLENGE

ARAN WEIGHT

NOTES Cardigan is worked top down in one piece, dividing at base of armholes for Sleeves and Back/Front. If you prefer a looser waist fit, work with either less dec or no dec, adjusting accordingly so the stitch count for Border is a multiple of 12 sts plus 5. Stitch patts you need are written out below. Length stated is from shoulder to hem (without top rib).

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QWest Yorkshire Spinners Aire

Valley Aran (75% British wool, 25% nylon, 100g/200m), Red (549), see table for yarn quantities and measurements QA 4mm (US G/6) hook Q6 buttons For yarn stockists, contact WYS 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com

MOSS STITCH PATTERN Foundation row (Dc in next st, ch1, skip next st) repeat to end, turn. Row 1 Dc in every ch-sp, ch1 above every dc, skipping that dc, unless stated otherwise. Row 1 sets pattern.

TENSION

Increasing in Moss Stitch Patt (Dc, ch1, dc, ch1) in ch-sp to work one inc. Each inc worked increases by 2 sts.

20sts and 16 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over moss st patt using a 4mm hook or size required to achieve tension

Decreasing in Moss Stitch Patt (Dc, ch1) in next ch-sp, skip next ch-sp, dc in next ch-sp. Each decrease worked decreases by 2 sts.

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

8-10

b

SIZE (UK DRESS)

c

TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST a FRONT & BACK

WAIST

a: 43 (47: 53.5)cm, 16¾ (18½: 21)in b: 34 (35: 36)cm, 13¼ (13¾: 14¼)in c: 42cm, 16¼in

LENGTH

SLEEVE LENGTH YARN

C BODY RIB Ch113 (121: 139). Foundation row Tr in third ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn.

12-14

16-18

cm

81-86

91-97

102-107

in

32-34

36-38

40-42

cm

86

94

107

in

33½

36¾

42

cm

67

77

87

in

26¼

30¼

34¼

cm

34

35

36

in

13¼

13¾

14¼

cm

42

42

42

in

16¼

16¼

16¼

5

5

6

100g balls

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.

74 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

WINTER WARDROBE [112 (120: 138) sts] Row 1 (RS) Ch2 (counts as st for Rib section), *FPtr around each of next 2 sts, BPtr around each of next 2 sts; rep from * to last 3 sts, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sts, tr in last st, turn. Row 2 Ch2, *BPtr around each of next 2 sts, FPtr around each of next 2 sts; rep from * to last 3 sts, BPtr around each of next 2 sts, tr in beg ch-2, turn. Rows 3-4 Rep Rows 1-2 once more. YOKE Row 5 Ch1 (does not count as first st throughout), 1dc (2dc: 2dc) in first st, dc in each st to end, turn. [112 (121: 139) sts] Row 6 (Inc row) Ch1, dc in next st, (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts) repeat to end, turn. [149 (161: 185) sts] Rows 7-12 Work Rows 1-5 of Border Patt, then rep Row 2 of Border Patt. Row 13 (Inc Row) Work 10 sts as for the beg of Row 3 of Border Patt, work the Foundation Row of Moss Stitch Patt beg with a dc to last 10 sts, increasing 24 (26: 30) times evenly over these Moss sts, work the last 10 sts of Row 3 of Border Patt, turn. [Inc by 48 (52: 60) sts, total st count of 197 (213: 245) sts] Row 14 Work 10 sts as for the beg of correct Border Patt row, work central stitches as for Row 1 of Moss Stitch Patt, work the last 10 sts as for the end of the correct Border Patt row, turn. Cont working 10 sts in Border Patt at beg and end of each row, keeping Patt correct, and working the centre sts by repeating Row 1 of Moss Stitch Patt: Work 6 (7: 8) more rows as the last row. Next row (Inc row) Work 10 sts in Border Patt, work 33 (35:40) inc evenly along Moss St centre, ending with 10 sts in Border Patt. [Inc by 66 (70: 80) sts, total st count of 263 (283: 325) sts] Work 6 (7: 8) plain rows (as Row 14). DIVIDE FOR FRONT AND BACK Next row (WS) Work 10 sts in Border Patt, 29 (32: 38) sts in Moss St, ch8 (10: 10) for underarm, skip 54 (58: 66) sts for first sleeve, Moss St 77 (83: 97) for Back, ch8 (10: 10) for underarm, skip 54 (58: 66) sts for second sleeve, Moss St 29 (32: 38) sts, work 10 sts in Border Patt. [171 (187: 213) working sts] Next row Work in Border Patt as set over first 10 and last 10 sts, and Moss St in each remaining st and chain. Fold work flat and place a stitch marker in

the ch-sp closest to each side fold, at the centre of each underam. Work 4 more rows in pattern as set. WAIST DECREASES Next row (Dec row) Work in pattern as set up to first marker, decreasing by skipping marked ch-sp as explained in Moss Stitch Patt Notes. Move marker up to second ch-sp of this dec. Work in patt up to second marker and dec as before, moving marker up to first ch-sp of this dec, work in patt to end, turn. [167 (183: 209) sts] Next row Work in patt as set without shaping, moving markers up. Repeat the last 2 rows 4 (5: 6) more times. [151 (163: 185) sts] Work 9 (7: 5) rows without shaping. Next row Work in patt as set with 1 (1: 0) decreases placed centrally in the Moss St section. [149 (161: 185) sts] If you are adjusting the waist, your sts need to be a multiple of 12 +5 at this point. Work Rows 1-5 of Border Pattern. Next row Work in patt as set (using Foundation Row of Moss St Patt) with 7 (3: 5) dec placed evenly across the Moss St section. [135 (155: 175) sts] RIB Work Rows 1-3 of Rib Patt. You’ll need to adjust to an even number of sts for first row, so dec one st by skipping one st at the beginning of the next row. [134 (154: 174) sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. SLEEVES Work out which sts of the underarm ch need to have a dc worked into them in order for the Moss Stitch patt around the Sleeve to remain correct. Rejoin yarn in most central of those underarm sts with RS facing ready to work in rounds. Do not close off each round with a ss, but continue working in a spiral. Use a st marker in the first st of each round, moving it up as you work. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st and continue in Moss st across underam chain, skipped Sleeve sts and underam ch at end of round. Once you’ve worked last ch1 of round, work an extra dc in same st as first dc of round. This is to make total number of Sleeve sts an odd number, which is required in order to work Moss Stitch in

the round. [63 (69: 77) sts] Round 2 Ch1 (this is first st of Moss St of round, so mark this st), dc in next ch-sp, cont working Moss St around. Rounds 3-11 Continue working in Moss St in the round. Round 12 (Dec row) Continuing in Moss St, work a dec at the beg and end of the round. [59 (65: 77) sts] Work a Dec row on every following 12th row, 4 times more. [42 (48: 56) sts] Next row Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st and ch around, ss in next st to smooth edge. RIB Rounds 1-4 Ch2 (counts as st), *FPtr around each of next 2 sts, BPtr around each of next 2 sts; rep from * to last 3 sts, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sts, tr in last st, ss to top of beg ch-2. Fasten off and weave in ends. BUTTON BAND Rejoin yarn with RS facing at top corner of Left Front. Work 60 (62: 64)dc evenly down Left Front. Next row Ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn. Repeat the last row 5 more times. Fasten off and weave in ends. BUTTONHOLE BAND Rejoin yarn with RS facing at bottom corner of Right Front. Work 60 (62: 64) dc evenly up Right Front. Next row Ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn. Repeat the last row twice more. Next row (buttonhole row) Ch1 (does not count as st), work 2 (3: 2) sts in Moss St beg with a dc, dc in next st, ch3, skip 3 sts, dc in next st (buttonhole made), *5 (5: 6) sts in Moss St, dc in next st, ch3, skip 3 sts, dc in next st; rep from * 4 more times, Moss St to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn. Next row Ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn. Repeat last row. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Sew on buttons to match buttonholes. Block to measurements.

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ruBy slIpperS Treat your tootsies to a pair of magical socks designed by Sara Huntington.

WINTER WARDROBE

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QDebbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino

(55% wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere, 50g/125m), 2 balls of Red (34) 1 ball of Ecru (101) QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook QTwo small ribbon bows (optional) QStitch markers For yarn stockists, contact Designer Yarns 01535 664222 www.designeryarns.uk.com

TENSION 21 stitches and 23 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over double crochet worked in the round with a 3mm hook

MEASUREMENTS See table

ABBREVIATIONS

T

Round 3 Dc in each st around. Rounds 4-9 Repeat Rounds 2-3 three times more. [38 (40: 42) dc] Round 10 Repeat Round 2. [42 (44: 46) dc]

hese slipper socks are something special. They look like a pair of Mary-Jane-style ballet slippers worn with frilly socks – that’s two unique elements combined in one clever make. The pretty pair is finished off with a couple of dainty bows. They’re fun and feminine, and great fun for Christmas, so get yourself some soft baby cashmerino yarn and start those continuous double crochet rounds!

Retaining only the marker in the last st of the round, continue working in the round on these 42 (44: 46) sts until the work measures 6.5 (7: 7.5) cm from the foundation chain. FOOT This section of the sock covers the main body of the foot over the sole and the sides of the foot. It is worked back and forth in rows. Flatten the toe and identify the central 7 (8: 9) sts on the top of the work. This will become the instep gap on the top of the foot, which will later be filled in with Ecru. Mark these sts with st markers.

NOTES These socks are worked in the round for the toe, back and forth for the Foot and Heel sections, and then in the round again for the Leg section.

C SOCKS (MAKE 2) TOE Work this section in the round without closing off each round with a ss. With Red, ch12 (13: 14). Round 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook, dc in the next 10 (11: 12) sts, marking the last stitch with a marker. Working along the other side of the foundation chain, dc in the same st as the marker, dc in each remaining st, marking the last st with a marker. [22 (24: 26) dc]

You will now work back and forth in rows on the 35 (36: 37) rem sts, leaving the central 7 (8: 9) sts unworked. Dc to the first marked st of the central sts, turn. Row 1 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), ss into first st, dc to marker on the other side of the marked central sts, turn. [34 (35: 36) dc] Remove markers. Row 2 (RS) Ch1, ss in first st, dc in each remaining st to end, turn. [33 (34: 35) dc] Rows 3-4 Repeat Row 2. [31 (32: 33) sts] Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.

For a full list, see page 130. Continue as follows, moving markers up on each round as you work: Round 2 2dc in the first st, dc in each st up to st before marker, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in marked st, 2dc in the next st, dc in each st up to st before marker, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in marked st. [26 (28: 30) dc]

Small

Medium

Large

3-4

5-6

7-8

cm

23.5

24.5

25.5

in

9¼

9½

10

cm

21

22

23

UK SIZES TO FIT LENGTH TO FIT FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE ACTUAL LENGTH ACTUAL FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE

in

8¼

8½

9

cm

22.5

23.5

24.5

in

8¾

9¼

9½

cm

20

21

22

in

7¾

8¼

8½

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 77

WINTER WARDROBE Repeat Row 5 until work measures a total of 16.5 (17.5: 18.5) cm from the foundation chain, ending on a WS row. Rotate your work so you are able to work down the side of the instep gap. With WS facing, work 1 row of dc down the side of the instep gap, working 1dc into the end of each row worked in the Foot section; work 1dc into each of the 7 (8: 9) sts at the bottom and 1dc into the end of each row on the other side of the instep gap, turn. Next row (RS) Ch1, ss into each dc along the inside of the instep gap. Fasten off. INSTEP This section covers the top of the foot and is worked back and forth in rows. Using Ecru, attach the yarn to the right-hand corner ss of the 7 (8: 9) bottom stitches. Working into the slip stitches only: Row 1 (RS) Dc in each of the 7 (8: 9) bottom stitches, turn. [7 (8: 9) dc] Row 2 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st, 1dc into the first ss from the instep gap on the RH side of the work, turn. [8 (9: 10) dc] Row 3 Ch1, 1dc in each of 8 (9: 10) dc, skip one ss on the left-hand side of the work, dc into the next ss above, turn. [9 (10: 11) dc] Row 4 Ch1, skip the first dc, dc in each st to end, skip one ss on the side, dc into the next ss above, turn. [9 (10: 11) dc] Repeat Row 4, ending with a RS row, until there are 3 ss remaining at the top-right side of the instep gap. To make the ‘strap’ of the shoe, change to Red on the last step of the last st and repeat Row 4 for a further 2 rows. You should now have reached the top of the sock formed in the Foot section, do not turn or fasten off. Next round (RS) Work one complete round of dc on the 31 (32: 33) sts of the Foot and each of the 9 (10: 11) dc at the top of the instep gap, working an additional dc in the ‘seam’ at each side of the instep gap, giving a total of 42 (44: 46) dc. Flatten the sock so that the foundation chain is flat and the instep is on the 78 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

centre top. Identify the 21 (22: 23) sts which make up the Front of the sock, and the 21 (22: 23) sts which make up the Back. Place a stitch marker in the first and last sts of the Back and continue to work a dc in each st up to and including the last st of the Back, turn, do not fasten off. HEEL This section forms the ‘cup’ of the heel and is worked back and forth in rows on the 21 (22: 23) sts of the Back of the Sock.

The upper edge of the sock has a subtle frill made up of dc and half treble stitches.

HEEL FLAP Row 1 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st up to the first st (marked) of the Back, turn, leaving the marked st unworked. [20 (21: 22) sts] Row 2 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st leaving the last st unworked, turn. [19 (20: 21) sts] Rows 3-10 Repeat Row 2. [11 (12: 13) sts] On each of the following 10 rows, you will pick up 1 stitch from the outside edge of the heel flap already worked: Row 11 (WS) Ch1, dc in each st, dc in unworked dc from row below, ss in row end of dc just worked, turn. [12 (13: 14) dc] Row 12 Skip ss, dc in the next 12 (13: 14) dc, dc in unworked dc from row below, ss in row end of dc just worked, turn. Rows 13-20 Repeat Row 12, working one additional st on each side of the heel flap until there are a total of 21 (22: 23) dc, do not turn or fasten off at the end of Row 20. LEG This section is worked in the round. The next st to be worked will be the first st of the Front of the sock. Remove any existing markers and place a marker in the first st of the Front to mark the first st of the round and move it up on each round as you work. Round 1 (RS) Dc in each st across the Front of the sock, and each st of the Heel, changing to Ecru on the last yrh of the last st of the Heel. [42 (44: 46) sts] Following rounds (RS) Using Ecru, continue working in rounds in double

These toe-up socks are crocheted in both rows and rounds to achieve this shape.

crochet until Leg measures 6cm (or required length). FRILL Next round *(1dc, 1htr, 1dc) in the next st, ss into the next st; repeat from * around. Fasten off. TO FINISH Weave in ends and press. Sew a ribbon bow to the front of the sock, if desired.

DECORATIONS

So b ri WAR ght!

WELC M OME

Spell it ouT Celebrate your family space with DMC’s fun and festive alphabet hanging.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 79

DECORATIONS

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QDMC

Natura Just Cotton (100% cotton, 50g/155m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Green Valley (N14) Yarn B Passion (N23) Yarn C Chartreuse (N48) QA 3mm (US C/2-D/3) hook QTapestry needle For yarn stockists, contact DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Each square measures approx 16x16cm (6¼x6¼in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

This festive decoration is from DMC. To find more crochet patterns and see the full range of DMC yarn (and to find a stockist) visit www. dmccreative.co.uk or call 0116 275 4000. 80 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

S

pell out your favourite place in yarn! This sweet hanging is made in double crochet, so it’s a great project for both beginners and intermediate crocheters. This 100% cotton 4ply yarn from DMC is super soft to craft with and gives a lovely matt finish. We’ve used classic shades of red and green, but as there are 60 colours of Natura Just Cotton, you can easily change them to match your décor.

C HANGING BACKGROUND PANEL With Yarn A, ch27. Row 1 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in next 25 ch, turn. [26 sts] Rows 2-30 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each dc, turn. EDGING Continue working in Yarn A. Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 24 dc, 4dc in next dc, working in row ends, miss 1st row, (1dc in next 5 rows, miss next row) 4 times, 1dc in next 4 dc, miss next row, working along other side of starting ch in unused loops, 4dc in next ch, 1dc in next 24 ch, 4dc in next ch, working in row ends, miss 1st row, (1dc in next 5 rows, miss next row) 4 times, 1dc in next 4 dc, 2dc in last row. Change to Yarn B or C for border (to match letter), ss to 1st ch to join round, do not turn. [112 sts]

Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), working in back loops only, 2dc in next dc, (1dc in next 26 dc, 2dc in each of next 2 dc) 3 times, 1dc in next 26 dc, 2dc in next dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [120 sts] Row 3 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 29 dc) 4 times, ss to 1st ch, turn. [124 sts]. Row 4 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 30 dc) 4 times, ss to 1st ch. [128 sts] Fasten off and sew in ends. LETTER H Row 1 With Yarn B, ch33, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in next 8 ch, 10ch, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in next 8 ch, 1dc in next 14 ch, 10ch, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in next 8 ch, 1dc in next 9ch, turn. [53ch and 50dc] Row 2 Ch1, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 16 dc, 3dc in next dc, working along other side of ch in unused loops, miss 1st ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 7 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 10 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 7 dc, 3dc in next dc, working along other side of ch in unused loops, miss 1st ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 8 ch, 1dc in next 8 dc, 3dc in next dc, working along other side of ch in unused loops, miss 1st ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 7 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 10 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 7 ch, 3dc in next ch, ss to 1st ch, turn. [108 sts] Row 3 Ch1, 1dc in next dc, *3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 7 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 8 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 7 dc, 3dc in

DECORATIONS

next dc, 1dc in next 2 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 18 dc, 3dc in next dc, ** 1dc in next 2 dc, rep from * to **, 1dc in next dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [116 sts] Fasten off and sew in ends. LETTER O With Yarn C, ch36, taking care not to twist, ss tog to form a loop. Row 1 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 5 dc) 6 times, ss to 1st ch, turn. [42 sts] Row 2 Ch1, 1dc in next 2 dc, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 6 dc) 5 times, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 4 dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [48 sts] Row 3 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 7 dc) 6 times, ss to 1st ch, turn. [54 sts] Row 4 Ch1, 1dc in next 3 dc, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 8 dc) 5 times, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 5 dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [60 sts] Row 5 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in next 9 dc) 6 times, ss to 1st ch. [66 sts] Fasten off and sew in ends. LETTER M Row 1 With Yarn B, ch54, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 16 ch, 2dc in each of next 2 ch, 1dc in next 6 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 6 ch, 2dc in each of next 2 ch, 1dc in next 17 ch, turn. (54ch and 55dc). Row 2 Ch1, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 16 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 5 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 2

dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 16 dc, 3dc in next dc, working along other side of ch in unused loops, miss 1st ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 14 ch, dc5tog, 1dc in next 6 ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 6 ch, dc5tog, dc in next 14 ch, 3dc in next ch, ss to 1st ch, turn. [114 sts] Row 3 Ch1, 1dc in next dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 13 dc, dc5tog, 1dc in next 5 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 5 dc, dc5tog, 1dc in next 13 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 2 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 18 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 5 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 3 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 18 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [120 sts] Fasten off and sew in ends. LETTER E Row 1 With Yarn C, ch41, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 11 ch, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 14 ch, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 12 ch, turn. [41ch and 44dc] Row 2 Ch1, 3dc in next dc, dc in next 12 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 16 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 12 dc, 3dc in next dc, working along other side of ch in unused loops, miss 1st ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 10 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 6 ch, 5ch, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in next 3 ch, 1dc in next 6 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 10 ch, 3dc in next dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [5ch and 96dc]

Row 3 Ch1, 1dc in next dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 10 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 4 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next dc, 3dc in next dc, working along other side of ch in unused loops, miss 1st ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 4 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 10 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 2 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 14 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 18 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 14 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [108 sts] Fasten off and sew in ends. TO MAKE UP Lay your finished green squares on a flat surface and carefully position each letter centrally on a square. Using the same coloured yarn as each letter, carefully sew in place with small neat stitches (it might help to pin or tack them on first). Try to make sure the stitches do not show on the reverse of the squares. Using Yarn B, make a long enough ch to hang your hanging. With RS facing, dc a row from the top right hand corner of the E square working into the back loops for each dc. Continue across the top straight edge. Then work 7ch for the space. Repeat for letters M, O and H squares. Make another ch the same length as the first for hanging. Turn. Continue to work dc across the chain and the other dc. Fasten off and sew in ends. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 81

BrighT bauBles Tracey Todhunter’s bauble wreath is a welcome splash of winter colour.

DECORATIONS

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

DK WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QRico

Essentials Cotton DK (100% cotton, 50g/130m) in: Banana (063), Light Blue (027), Pistachio (086), Fuchsia (014), Pumpkin (087), Red (02) QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q17cm polystyrene half wreath (available from craft stores) Q1.5m grosgrain ribbon in any colour Q30cm narrow ribbon in any colour QTextile glue or glue gun QHollow fibre toy stuffing QTapestry needle QLocking stitch marker (optional) For yarn stockists, contact Rico www.rico-design.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Each ball is approximately 8cm diameter, finished size depends on your choice of wreath

Pile your crocheted balls onto your wreath base so that the base is hidden. For more festive cheer, add a bell to the hanging ribbon so it jungles when your door is opened and closed.

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

is the season to be creative and we can’t get enough of the vivid shades that make up this jolly wreath. You can really go to town with colour on this project. Brights will offer wow factor, while pastels will provide a subtler, but equally pretty effect. While tension is not essential, ensure you’re using the right hook by making a test bauble first – you don’t want the stuffing to poke through and spoil the finish.

T

Round 2 2dc in each dc around. Pull yarn tail tight and secure end. [12 dc] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times. [18 dc] Rounds 5-6 1dc in each dc around. Round 7 (1dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 dc] Round 8 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 dc] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff bauble and, using a tapestry needle, draw yarn tail through remaining stitches and draw tight to close.

NOTES Make at least 7 balls in each colour. The pattern is worked in the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off the round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work.

TO MAKE UP Weave in all ends. Wrap wide ribbon around the polystyrene wreath, ensuring no polystyrene is left exposed. Wrap narrow ribbon around wreath to form a hanging loop. Glue each bauble to the wreath in a random assortment of colours. Remember to leave the back uncovered so the wreath will hang flat on a wall. You may need to make a few extra baubles to achieve your desired finish.

C WREATH BALL (MAKE 42 OR MORE) With chosen yarn, make a magic loop. Round 1 6dc into loop. [6 dc]

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Super stocKing Who can resist this gorgeous stocking by Julie Mnemosyne and Jenny Phin?

DECORATIONS

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

4MM

YOU WILL NEED Q DROPS

Karisma (100% wool, 50g/100m), 3 balls Off White (01), plus Yarns A, B and C: 2 balls of each Dark Mustard (52), Blue Turquoise (60), Forest Green (47) For joining motifs: 1 ball Red (18) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook For yarn stockists, contact Wool Warehouse 0800 505 3300 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

TENSION A hexagon motif measures 18x16cm (7x6¼in)

MEASUREMENTS 54x44cm (21¼x17¼in)

ABBREVIATIONS Spiked dc Work a dc st into the st of the previous round and pull yarn up to the level of the current round when pulling the yarn through the stitch Hdtr Half double treble crochet Yrh twice, insert hook into stitch, yrh, pull up a loop, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, yrh, pull through 3 remaining loops PL Petal Loop See Diagram A on p86. Ch3, ss into same st as first dc of Round 5, ss into space between dc and first tr of petal on Round 4, ss across the same dc into the space on the other side of the dc before the last tr of the petal on Round 4, ss into same st as dc above last tr of same petal, ch3, which will lie over the first ch-3 of the Petal Loop For a full list, see page 130.

O

ne of the most important Christmas decorations is surely a bright and sturdy stocking for Santa to leave your presents in. And this colourful creation by Jenny Phin using a motif by Julie Mnemosyne is sure to catch Father Christmas’s eye! You can mix and match the colours as you want, and because the motifs are made separately this is a great project to make on the go – keep a motif in your bag for instant crocheting and you’ll soon have enough for this mantlepiece accessory! NOTES Yarns A, B and C are colours of your choice from the shades listed. The final 2 rounds of each motif are always Off White.

C HEXAGON MOTIF (MAKE 16) With Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc into ring, ch3) 6 times, ss to first dc to join. [6 dc, 6 ch-3 sp] Round 2 Ss into first ch-3 sp, ch2 (counts as first htr), (tr, ch1, tr, htr) into same ch-3 sp, (htr, tr, ch1, tr, htr) in next ch-3 sp) 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-2. Fasten off Yarn A. [24 sts, 6 ch-1 sp] Round 3 Join Yarn B with a spiked dc into 1 of the dc sts from Round 1. *Ch2, (dc, ch4, dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch2, spiked dc into next dc in Round 1; rep from * 5 more times, omitting last spiked dc on final repeat, ss to first spiked dc. [18 dc, 6 ch-4 sp, 12 ch-2 sp] Round 4 Ch1 (counts as first dc), *(3tr, hdtr, dtr, hdtr, 3tr) into ch-4 sp (petal made), dc into spiked dc; rep from * 5 more times, omitting last dc on final repeat, ss to beg ch-1. [6 petals, 6 dc] Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in each of first 2 tr of petal, htr in each of next 2 sts, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in dtr, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 2 sts, skip next st; rep from * 5 more times, ss to first dc. Fasten off Yarn B. [72 sts, 6 ch-2 sp] Round 6 Join Yarn C in ch-2 sp with a ss, ch3 to count as first tr. *Tr in each of next 4 sts, PL, skip all dc sts, tr in each of next 2 htr and next 2 tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp; rep from * 5 more times, omitting last tr on final repeat, ss to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off Yarn C. [72 sts, 6 PLs, 6 ch-2 sp]

The motifs are all made separately and then joined with a dc seam at the end.

The motif is so pretty you’ll want to use it in lots of makes. Why not try some coasters?

Round 7 Join Off White with a ss in a ch-2 sp. Ch1 (does not count as st), *(dc, ch2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 4 sts, htr in next st, tr in next st, ch1, skip PL, tr in next tr, htr in next st, dc in next 4 sts; repeat from * 5 more times, ss to first dc. Round 8 Ch1 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, *3dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next 2 sts, htr in next 2 sts, tr in next 3 sts, tr in ch-1 sp, tr in next 3 sts, htr in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 5 more times, omitting last dc on final repeat, ss to first dc. Fasten off. DIAMOND MOTIF (MAKE 1) With Yarn A, ch6, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 *Ch2 (counts as first htr), tr, hdtr, dtr, hdtr, tr, htr in ring; repeat from * replacing beg ch-2 with htr, ss to top of beg ch-2. [14 sts] Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), *2dc, htr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in dtr, htr, 2dc; rep from *, ss to first dc. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 85

DECORATIONS Fasten off Yarn A. [20 sts, 2 ch-2 sp] Round 3 Join Yarn B in the first st of the round. Ch7, dc in the second ch from the hook, (dc, 2htr, 2tr) working back down the chain, ch3, spiked dc in the first st from Round 1, ch3, skip the first dc of Round 2, *tr in each of the next 4 sts, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in each of the next 4 sts, ch3, spiked dc in the next htr from Round 1**, ch7, 6ss back down chain starting with the second ch from the hook, ss in the same st as the last spiked dc, move the ch7 just worked to the left of the hook to work back up the stitches of this chain: ch3, tr in each of the next 2 ch, 2htr, 2dc (reached top of ch-7), ch3, skip 1 ch at the top, working back down the chain: 2dc, 2htr, 2tr (reached bottom of ch-7), ch3, spiked dc in the next htr of Round 1, ch3, skip dc from Round 2; repeat from * to **, ch3, working up the sts of the first ch-7: 2tr, 2htr, 2dc, ch3, ss to the first dc. Fasten off Yarn B. Round 4 Join Off White in the first st of the round. Ch1 (does not count as st),

*4dc, htr, tr, ch1, skip top of both ch-3, tr in next tr, htr, 4dc**, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch-2 sp; repeat from * to **, (dc, ch3, dc) in ch-3 sp; repeat all from *, ss to first dc. Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc, *2htr, 3tr, tr in ch-1 sp, 3tr, 2htr, 2dc, 4dc in ch-sp, 2dc: repeat from * 3 more times omitting the last 2 dc on the final repeat, ss to the first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. JOINING MOTIFS Refer to Diagram B below for arranging the motifs. Join the motifs with Red and a dc seam as follows: Holding 2 motifs WS together, dc through both layers, working through the front loop only of the motif held at the back and the the back loop only of the motif held at the front for each stitch. Rejoin Red to the top opening edge, ch3 (counts as tr) tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off.

DIAGRAM A

Turn down the points of the top-most motifs to create a pretty cuff for the stocking.

DIAGRAM B FRONT AND BACK

6

Key Fold line of motif Hexagon motif

Diamond motif

4 5

3

Key Slip st (ss)

Half Double treble crochet (dtr)

Chain (ch) Chain over chain (ch)

Double treble crochet (dtr)

Double crochet (dc) Half treble crochet (htr)

Spiked double crochet

Treble crochet (tr)

g Direction of workin

86 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

DECORATIONS

IMPROVE YOUR SKILLS Show off your embroidery by making a set of glitzy winter coasters.

TwinkLe, twinklE Add sparkle to the Christmas morning tea round with these embroidered coasters by Becky Skuse.

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DECORATIONS

W

hether your Christmas morning breakfast involves scrambled eggs, bacon and Bucks Fizz or a mince pie warm from the oven and a cup of tea, a coaster is essential to take care of any accidental spills. Once you’ve hooked this pretty pair, turn to our handy technical feature on page 89 and learn how to embellish your crocheted fabric with a few simple stitches. In fact, you can give all sorts of makes the star treatment with a little embroidery – just let your imagination and your thread run free! IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QElla Rae Cozy Soft (75%

acrylic, 25% superwash wool, 100g/195m), 1 ball of Pale Blue (38) (each coaster uses only 15g of this yarn) QAnchor Artiste Metallic No 5 (80% viscose, 20% polyester, 25g/100m), 1 ball of Turquoise (312) QDMC Lumina Metallic Thread No 3 (60% viscose, 40% metalized polyester Sinflex, 20g/150m), 1 ball of Silver (L168) QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook QTapestry needle (large eye and sharp point) For yarn stockists, contact www.intercontinentalyarns. co.uk, www.makeitcoats.com or www.dmccreative.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Finished coaster measures approx 11.5cm (4½in) square

TENSION Tension is not important for this project – just make sure your coaster is square by working more or less than the 23 rows

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

NOTES When working embroidery with metallic thread, cut lengths no longer than 50cm (19½in) – any longer than this and the thread tends to get tangled up. Weave each end into the back of the crocheted coaster to secure it before working the embroidery. The dc fabric forms a natural grid of gaps to work the embroidery stitches into, but you may need to split stitches in places to get true straight lines.

C COASTER (MAKE 2) With 3.5mm hook and Pale Blue, ch21. Row 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [20 dc] Rows 2-23 Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), dc in each dc to end, turn. Row 24 Work as Row 2, but do not turn. Rotate piece to work dc edging around coaster, working 3 dc in each corner space, 1 dc into each row end and 1 dc into each chain of foundation chain. Ss to first dc of Row 24. Fasten off and weave in ends. Make more coasters as desired. COASTER 1 EMBROIDERY Use lengths of Silver thread throughout. Work blanket stitch around the edge of the coaster, 1 dc wide and 1 dc tall, using the instructions given in the technical feature on page 89. You will need to use more than one length of thread, knotting the ends together at the back to secure them. Work a large star at the centre of the coaster, 12 dc tall and 8 dc wide, using the couching instructions given in the technical feature. Work two medium stars elsewhere on the coaster, 5 dc tall and 3 dc wide, using the couching

88 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

Coaster 2 lets you practise working running stitch, chain stitch and Lazy Daisy stitch.

Making Coaster 1 involves using blanket stitch, Lazy Daisy stitch and couching. technique (just work one couching stitch at the centre of each star). Work a small star elsewhere on the coaster, 2 dc tall and 2 dc wide, using the Lazy Daisy instructions given in the technical feature. Weave in all the ends. COASTER 2 EMBROIDERY Use lengths of Turquoise thread throughout. Work running stitch around the edge of the coaster, 1 dc wide and 1 dc in from the edge, using the instructions given in the technical feature. Work a large star at the centre of the coaster, 12 dc tall and 8 dc wide, using the chain stitch instructions given in the technical feature on page 89. For a neat look, start each line of the star from the centre, working outwards. Work two medium stars elsewhere on the coaster, 4 dc tall and 4 dc wide, using the Lazy Daisy stitch technique. Work two small stars elsewhere on the coaster, 2 dc tall and 2 dc wide, using the Lazy Daisy technique. Weave in all the ends.

Workshop

hoW do i adD emBroideRy? Grab a hook and some yarn – we’ll show you how easy it is to add embroidery to your crochet fabrics.

What Sort of StiTches CouLd i Work? We’ll show you how to work these five embroidery stitches. Embroidery is a great way to embellish your crochet fabric. With a few simple stitches you can create colour and texture in your makes well after you’ve fastened off. You can use embroidery to create interesting patterns on a plain background, or to add a small detail to a pocket, collar or bag. On page 87 you’ll find our pretty Christmas coasters, and if you need any tips on how to work the stitches, the next few pages are full of expert advice!

RUNNING STITCH

BLANKET STITCH

CHAIN STITCH

LAZY DAISY

COUCHING

how do i Work RunNing StiTcH? Master this stitch and you can create various lines and effects. Running stitch is a very handy technique to learn, both for embroidery and seaming together your crochet fabrics. It’s often used for outlining other motifs for appliqué, or forming straight lines. To start off, weave the thread or yarn into the back of the crochet fabric so it’s secure. Step 1 Bring the needle through from the back to the right side of the fabric. Push the needle into the fabric one stitch to the right 01 . Step 2 *Bring the needle from the back to the front one stitch to the right and then push the needle into the fabric one stitch to the right 02 . Step 3 Repeat from * to form a line 03 . You can work the technique in any direction on your fabric.

A

B C

01

D

02

03

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how do i Work a ChaIn StiTcH? A quick and easy way to create shapes and motifs. Chain stitch is a versatile stitch that’s great for creating motifs, outlines and decorations. You may need to split the double crochet stitches so use a sharper tapestry needle. To start off, weave the thread or yarn into the back of the crochet fabric so it’s secure. Step 1 Bring the needle to the front of the fabric. *Insert the needle back into the fabric, in the same hole or very close to it – pull gently and leave a small loop of your thread or yarn 01 . Step 2 Bring the needle to the front one stitch to the right, making sure the needle passes through the loop you made 02 . Step 3 Repeat from * to make more loops 03 . Step 4 Continue working in any direction. After the final loop, make a small stitch over the loop to secure it 04 .

A B

01

02

03

04

01

02

03

04

how do i Work a Lazy DaiSy StiTcH? A nifty way to form little flower or star shapes in your fabric. A dainty Lazy Daisy is a pretty, decorative stitch that’s great for adding a floral look. It’s worked in a similar way to chain stitches. To start off, weave the thread or yarn into the back of the crochet fabric so it’s secure. Step 1 Bring the needle to the front of the fabric. *Insert the needle back into same hole and pull gently to form a loop 01 . Step 2 Bring the needle to the front, two stitches up, making sure the needle passes through the loop. Take the needle over the loop and then insert the needle back down into the same hole 02 . Step 3 You will have secured the loop with a small stitch 03 . Step 4 Bring the needle to the front at the original hole and repeat from * working to the left, right and downwards to make three more loops 04 . 90 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

workshop how do i Work BlaNket StiTcH? A stitch used regularly for edging fabrics and motifs. One of the most useful stitches for crocheters, blanket stitch can be used anywhere on your fabric, but is traditionally used at the edge. Once mastered, you can use it to form loops at the edge of any fabric, which you can then crochet into. To start off, weave the thread or yarn into the back of the crochet fabric so it’s secure. Step 1 Bring the needle to the front of the fabric. *Insert the needle one stitch down and one stitch to the right. Bring the needle out of the fabric one stitch up, making sure you keep the thread or yarn underneath the needle tip 01 . Step 2 Repeat from *, pulling the thread gently to create a half-square stitch 02 . Step 3 After the final stitch, make a small stitch over the last loop to secure it 03 .

02

01

03

01

02

03

04

This is a brilliant way to create lines and lettering, or to form shapes and motifs. You can use one or more strands of thread or yarn to achieve different effects. To start off, weave your working thread or yarn (the one making small stitches) into the back of the fabric so it’s secure. Step 1 Lay your couching thread across the front of the fabric, in the shape you want 01 . Step 2 Thread the needle with your working thread (we used a contrasting colour so you can see it). Bring the needle to the front of the fabric, near your couching thread and make a small stitch over it 02 . Step 3 This will work to secure the couching thread 03 . Step 4 Make more small stitches, evenly spaced, to hold the couching thread in the shape you want 04 .

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Written by Becky Skuse

how do i Work CouChing? A nifty way to form lines and shapes in your fabric.

DECORATIONS

PreseNt peRfect Display gifts in style with Rebecca Reid and Sarah Huntington’s unique parcel-wrap and tree skirt.

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DECORATIONS

quIrky Gift Wrap Make your parcels look pretty with Rebecca Reid’s sweet embellishments worked in chic, Scandi shades. NOTES Each shape uses two or three colours, Yarns A, B and C, from the listed shades.

EASY-PEASY TO MAKE

DK CHUNKY

3.5MM 6MM

YOU WILL NEED FOR THE GIFT WRAP Q DROPS Karisma (100% superwash wool, 50g/100m) 1 ball of each: Off White (01), Blue Turquoise (60), Red (18) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook For yarn stockists, contact Wool Warehouse 0800 505 3300 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk FOR THE TREE SKIRT Q Wendy Supreme Luxury Cotton Chunky (100% cotton, 100g/83m), 5 balls of White (1420) Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook For yarn stockists, contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS Gift wrap: each motif measures Tree skirt: approx 9.5cm (3¾in) 80cm (31½in) diameter

ABBREVIATIONS dc3tog (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) 3 times, yrh and draw through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 130.

94 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

C CIRCLE WITH POINTS Using Yarn A, ch6, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 15tr into ring, ss into third ch of beginning ch-3. [16 tr] Round 2 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1) (1tr into next tr, ch1) 15 times, ss into third ch of beginning ch-4. Fasten off. [16 tr, 16 ch-1 sp] Join Yarn B in any tr of previous round. Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), (2tr into next ch-1 sp, 1 tr into next tr) 15 times, 2tr into next ch-sp, ss into third ch of beginning ch-3. [48 tr] (If you want to make a three-colour version of this motif then join in Yarn C here – if not, continue with Yarn B) Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc, *ch5, ss into fifth ch from hook, skip next 2tr, 1dc into next tr, ch2, skip next 2tr, 1dc into next tr, ch3, skip next 2 tr, 1dc into next tr, ch2, skip next 2 tr**, 1dc into next tr; repeat from * twice and from * to ** once again, ss into first dc. [4 ‘points’ and 12 ch-sp] Round 5 Ss into next ch-5 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), (4tr, ch3, 5tr) into same sp *1dc into next ch-2 sp, 5tr into next ch-3 sp, 1dc into next ch-2 sp**, (5tr, ch3, 5tr) into next ch-5 sp; repeat from * twice and from * to ** once more, ss into top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends. DOILY CIRCLE Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 10tr into loop, ss to top of beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off. [11 tr] Join Yarn B in any tr of previous round. Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into st at base of ch, 2tr into each tr of previous round, ss to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off. [22 tr] Join Yarn A in any tr of previous round. Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into st at base of ch, 2tr into each tr of previous round, ss to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off. [44 tr] Join Yarn C in any tr of previous round.

Round 4 Ss into first tr, skip 1 tr, *4tr in next tr, skip 1 tr, ss into next tr, skip 1 tr; repeat from * 10 times, ss to first ss. Fasten off and weave in ends. HEART Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch2, 3dtr, 4tr, 1dtr, 4tr, 3dtr, ch2, ss into loop. [15 sts, 2 ch-2 sp] Round 2 1dc in ch-sp, 2htr in next st, 3htr in next st, 2htr in next st, 1htr in each of next 3 sts, 2htr in next st, (1htr, 1tr, 1htr) in next st, 2htr in next st, 1htr in each of next 3 sts, 2htr in next st, 3htr in next st, 2htr in next st, (1dc, ss) in ch-sp. [29 sts] Round 3 1dc in each of next 2 sts, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 6 sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 6 sts, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st) three times, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, ss to first dc. Fasten off. [37 sts] Join Yarn B in top of heart. Round 4 1dc in next dc, 2tr in each of next 8 dc, 1tr in each of next 9dc, 3tr in dc at lower point of heart, 1tr in each of next 9dc, 2tr in each of next 8 dc, 1dc in last dc at top of heart, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. SNOWFLAKE Using Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into ring, ss to first dc. [6 dc] Round 2 Ch5 (counts as tr and ch2), 1tr in st at base of ch, *(1tr, ch2, 1tr) in next dc; rep from * 4 times more, ss into third ch of beg ch-5. Fasten off. [12 tr, 6 ch-2 sp] Join Yarn B in any ch-2 sp of previous round. Round 3 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (1tr, ch3, 2tr) in same ch-2 sp, *(2tr, ch3, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * 4 times more, ss into third ch of beginning ch-5. Fasten off. [24 tr, 6 ch-3 sp] Join Yarn A in any ch-3 sp of previous round. Round 4 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (2tr, ch3, 3tr, ch1) in first ch-3 sp, *(3tr, ch3, 3tr, ch1) in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * 4 times more, ss into top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. [36 tr, 6 ch-3 sp, 6 ch-1 sp] Join Yarn B in any ch-3 sp of previous round. Round 5 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (3tr, ch3, 4tr) in first ch-3 sp, *1tr in next ch-1 sp, (4tr, ch3, 4tr) in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * 4 times more, 1tr in next ch-1 sp, ss into top of beginning ch-3.

DECORATIONS Fasten off and weave in ends. ROUND FLOWER Using Yarn A, ch10, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 23tr, ss into top of beginning ch-3. [24 tr] Round 2 Ch5 (counts as dc and ch4), skip 2 tr, 1dc into next tr (ch4, skip 2 tr, 1dc into next tr) 6 times, ch4, ss into first ch of beginning ch-5. Fasten off. [8 dc, 8 ch-4 sp] Join Yarn B in any ch-4 sp of previous round. Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), (1tr, ch2, 2tr, ch1) into same ch-sp, *(2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch1) into next ch-4 sp; repeat from * 6 times more, ss into top of beginning ch-3. [32 tr, 8 ch-2 sp, 8 ch-1 sp] Round 4 Ss into next tr and first ch-2 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), 6tr into same ch-sp, 1dc into ch-1 sp, (7tr into next ch-2 sp, 1dc into next ch-1 sp) 7 times, ss into top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends. C DIAMOND Using Yarn A, ch11. Row 1 (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [10 dc] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each dc across, turn. Rows 3-9 As Row 2. Fasten off at the end of Row 9, turn. Join Yarn B in first st of next row, ready to work around the outside of the shape. EDGING Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in st at base of ch, 8tr, 3tr in last dc (corner made), 8tr evenly spaced across row ends of shape, 3tr in corner stitch, 8tr, 3tr in last dc, 8tr evenly spaced across row ends of shape, ss to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends. GRANNY DIAMOND Using Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), 2tr in ring, ch2, (3tr in ring, ch2) 3 times, ss into top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off. [4 3-tr groups, 4 ch-2 sp] Join Yarn B in any ch-2 sp of previous round. Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (2tr, ch2, 3tr) in ch-2 sp at base of ch (right side corner made), ch1, (2tr, 1dtr, ch2, 1dtr, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp (top corner made), ch1, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in next ch-2 sp (left side corner

made), ch1, (2tr, 1dtr, ch2, 1dtr, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp (bottom corner made), ch1, ss into top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. [4 corner groups, 4 ch-1 sp] Join Yarn C in ch-2 sp of right corner. Round 3 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (2tr, ch2, 3tr) in ch-2 sp at base of ch, ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, (2tr, 1dtr, ch3, 1dtr, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp (top corner), ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in next ch-2 sp (left side), ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, (2tr, 1dtr, ch3, 1 dtr, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp (bottom corner), ch1, 3tr in next ch-2 sp, ch1, ss into top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends.

doIly tRee sKirt Make sure your Christmas tree takes pride of place with Sara Huntington’s giant doily-style mat worked in chunky cotton. It’s like a giant snowflake! DOILY Make a magic loop, ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), 11 tr into loop. [12 sts] Round 1 (RS) Ch3, tr into st at base of ch, 2tr into each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [24 sts] Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as first st throughout), 1dc, (ch13, skip 3 dc, 1dc into next dc) 5 times, ch13, ss to first dc. [6 ch-13 sp, 6 dc] Round 3 Ss into each of first 2 ch, ch1, dc into same ch and each of next 4 ch, *3dc into next ch, dc into each of next 5 ch, dc3tog over next (ch, dc and ch), dc into each of next 5 ch; repeat from * 4 times more, 3dc into next ch, dc into each of next 5 ch, dc into next dc, ss to first dc. [84 sts] Round 4 Ch1, skip first dc, *dc into each of next 5 dc, 3dc into next dc, dc into each of next 5 dc, dc3tog over next 3 dc; rep from * 4 times more, dc into each of next 5 dc, 3dc into next dc, dc into each of next 6 dc, ss to first dc. [84 sts] Round 5 As Round 4. Fasten off. Round 6 Rejoin yarn to a dc in centre of any 3-dc group. Ch1, dc into same st, (ch13, dc into centre dc of next 3-dc group) 5 times, ch13, ss to first dc. [6 ch-13 sp, 6 dc] Round 7 Ch1, (dc in next dc, dc in each of next 13 ch) 6 times, ss to first dc. [84 dc] Round 8 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 6dc) 12 times, ss to first dc. [96 dc]

Round 9 Ch3, (tr into each of next 7 dc, 2tr in next dc) 11 times, tr into each of next 7 dc, tr in st at base of ch-3, ss to top of beg ch-3. [108 tr] Round 10 Ch1, (dc into each of next 8 tr, 2dc in next tr) 12 times, ss in first dc. [120 dc] Round 11 Ch1, (dc into each of next 9 dc, 2dc into next dc) 12 times, ss in first dc. [132 dc] Round 12 Ch1, dc in same st as ch, (ch15, skip 10 dc, dc in next dc) 11 times, ch15, ss in first dc. [12 ch-15 sp, 12 dc] Round 13 Ss into each of first 2 ch, ch1, dc into same ch and each of next 5 ch, *3dc into next ch, dc into each of next 6 ch, dc3tog over next (ch, dc and ch), dc into each of next 6 ch; repeat from * 10 times more, 3dc into next ch, dc into each of next 6 ch, dc into next dc, ss to first dc. [96 dc] Round 14 Ch1, skip the first dc, *dc into each of the next 6 dc, 3dc into the next dc, dc into each of the next 6 dc, dc3tog over the next 3 dc; repeat from * 10 times more, dc into the next 6 dc, 3dc into the next dc, dc into the next 7 dc, ss to the first dc. Rounds 15 & 16 As Round 14. Fasten off at end of Round 16. Round 17 Rejoin yarn to the centre dc of any 3-dc group, ch1, dc into the same st, (ch15, dc in the centre dc of the next 3-dc group) 11 times, ch15, ss to the first dc. Round 18 Ch1, (dc in next dc, dc in each of the next 15 ch) 12 times, ss to the first dc. [192 dc] Round 19 Ch1, (2dc in the next dc, dc in each of the next 15 dc) 12 times, ss to the first dc. [204 dc] Round 20 Ch3, (tr in each of the next 16 dc, 2tr in the next dc) 11 times, tr in each of the next 16 dc, tr in st at base of ch-3, ss to the top of the beginning ch-3. [216 tr] Round 21 Ch1, (dc in each of the next 17 tr, 2dc in the next tr) 12 times, ss to the first dc. [228 dc] Round 22 Ch3, (tr in each of the next 18 dc, 2tr in the next dc) 11 times, tr in each of the next 18 dc, tr in the st at the base of ch-3, ss to the top of the beginning ch-3. [240 tr] Round 23 Ch1, (dc in each of the next 19 tr, 2dc in the next tr) 12 times, ss to the first dc. [252 dc] Round 24 Ch1, (dc in each of the next 20 dc, 2dc in the next dc) 12 times, ss to the first dc. [264 dc] Fasten off and weave in ends. Press with a cool iron over a clean cloth. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 95

Cosy CalendaR Count down the days with Advent bunting from Debora Bradley and Tanya Kalyan.

DECORATIONS

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

4PLY WEIGHT

2¾MM 3MM

YOU WILL NEED

S

tart your own family tradition with a special handmade Advent calendar. These little stockings and mittens are easy to crochet, and are a great on-the-go project to keep in your handbag. Fill each shape with sweets or little toys, and let everybody take a turn at delving into one each day!

QDROPS Alpaca (100% alpaca,

50g/167m), 1 ball of each: Dark Turquoise (2918) Pink (2921) Goldenrod (2923) Red (3620) Maroon Mix (3650) Tomato (3900) Dark Purple (4400) Dark Olive Mix (7238) QWendy Luxury Supreme Cotton 4ply (100% mercerised cotton, 100g/267m), 1 ball of Cream (1851) QA 2¾mm (US C/2) hook QA 3mm (US D/3) hook QStitch markers QTapestry needle For yarn stockists, contact Wool Warehouse for DROPS 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk, and TB Ramsden for Wendy 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS

NOTE The main part of the mitten and stocking is worked in a spiral without closing off each round, so you may want to use a stitch marker in the first st of the round to keep track.

C MITTENS (MAKE 12) CUFF The rib for the Cuff is worked back and forth in rows. With a 2.75mm hook, ch7. Row 1 (RS) Dc into back bump of the second ch from hook and in each remaining ch, turn. [6 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc bl into each st of row, turn. Row 3 Rep Row 2, 19 more times. Fold the rib section in half and line up the short edges with the hook to the right. Ss together through the back loops of the foundation chain and the stitches of the last row worked. Turn rib so ss row is on the inside.

HAND Change to 3mm hook. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), work 23dc evenly into the row ends of the rib, ss to first dc. [23 sts] Now continue working in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. Round 2 10dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc, 2dc into next st, 9dc. [25 sts] Round 3 1dc into each st. Round 4 11dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc, 2dc into next st, 10dc. [27 sts] Round 5 1dc into each st. Round 6 12dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc, 2dc into next st, 11dc. [29 sts] Round 7 1dc into each st. Round 8 13dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc, 2dc into next st, 12dc. [31 sts] Round 9 1dc into each st. Round 10 14dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc, 2dc into next st, 13dc. [33 sts] Round 11 12dc, skip the next 10 sts for thumb, 11dc. [23 sts not including thumb] Round 17 1dc into each st around. [23 sts] Repeat Round 17 for 8 rounds more. Next round (6dc, dctog) twice, 5dc, dc2tog. [20 sts] Next round (3dc, dc2tog) 4 times. [16 sts] Next round 1dc into each st. Next round (Dc2tog) 8 times. [8 sts] Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using a

Length of each mitten or stocking approx 13cm

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

SIMPLE STEP CHAIN STITCH

22

11

A series of loops, chain stitch is used for the numbers on the mittens and stockings. Come out of the fabric at 1, where you want to begin, and leaving a loop, go back down again in the same hole at 1. Bring the needle out again at 2, keeping the thread under the needle. Repeat. Make a small stitch over the last loop to fix it in place.

Keep the tension, and distance between stitches, as even as possible so they’re all the same size.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 97

DECORATIONS yarn needle, thread tail through front loop of remaining 5 sts and pull tight. Fasten off and weave in ends. THUMB Join yarn to any thumb stitch and make 12dc around thumb opening. Next round 1dc into each st. Repeat last Round 4 times more. Next round (Dc2tog) 6 times [6 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using yarn needle, thread tail through front loop of remaining 5 sts and pull tight. Fasten off and weave in ends. HANGING LOOP Rejoin yarn to the Cuff with a ss, ch16 and ss to the st at the base of the ch. Fasten off and weave in ends. STOCKINGS (MAKE 12) With a 3mm hook, ch3, join to first ch with a ss to make a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 8dc in the ring, ss to first dc. [8 sts] Now continue working in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [16 sts] Round 3 2dc in each dc around. [32 sts] Round 4 1dc in each dc around. Rounds 5-20 Repeat Round 4. HEEL FLAP Now working back and forth in rows: Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 16dc, place a marker in the last of these sts, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [16 sts] Rows 2-8 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc

98 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

in each st to end, turn. Fold heel flap in half matching row ends with row ends. Ch1, dc through both layers of each st of the last row worked to join. [8 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. With RS facing, rejoin yarn in the marked st from Row 1 of the Heel. Round 21 Now working in rounds, continue to work a dc st in each of the 16 unworked sts from Round 20, then work 18dc evenly around the row ends of the heel flap to bring you back to the marked st, ss to first st and remove marker. [34 sts] Now continue working in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. Next round 1dc in each st around. Repeat last round until whole stocking meas 13cm or required length. Do not fasten off. Ch16, ss to st at base of ch to make a hanging loop. Fasten off and weave in ends. NUMBERS Thread a needle with a length of Wendy Luxury Supreme Cotton and chain stitch a number on to each mitten and stocking. CHAIN Using a 3mm hook and Wendy Luxury Supreme Cotton, make a length of chain to suit where and how you want to hang the bunting. Fasten off. Thread the chain through the hanging loops.

Work the numbers by embroidering them on the mitts and stockings in contrasting yarn.

They’re just the right size for a chocolate bar, a small cracker or a special little gift.

BrancH out Make Anne Egan’s runner to fit your festive table, embroidered with a snowy branch design.

DECORATIONS

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3.5MM

YOU WILL NEED King Cole Baby Alpaca DK (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), Yarn A Cranberry (510) (see Notes for quantities), Yarn B Fawn (501), 1 ball Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A wide-eyed needle For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.co.uk Q

MEASUREMENTS 27x78cm (10½x30¾in) or make to fit your table

ABBREVIATIONS Spiked dc Instead of working the next dc into the dc on the row directly below, work the next dc into the dc one row below that. For a full list, see page 130.

C

hristmas dinner is the most important meal of the year, so don’t forget to decorate your dining table when you’re decking the halls. Made in rows of half treble, this ruby-red runner, with its embroidered Scandi-style design, will add a burst of colour to your festive feasting, and it can be made as long (or short) as you want it to be. And once the plates have been cleared away, your runner can be rolled up, ready for next year’s festivities! NOTES You can make this table runner as long as you like to fit your table. The amount of Yarn A you will need depends on the desired length of your table runner. The sample shown uses four balls of Cranberry, and based on this sample, one ball will yield approximately 19cm (7½in) length in this pattern. The runner is made in rows of half treble with contrasting trim added at each end afterwards. Always join a new yarn ball on the WS.

C TABLE RUNNER Using Yarn A, ch56. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [55 dc] Row 2 (RS) Ch2 (counts as first htr throughout), htr in each st to end, turn. [55 htr] Repeat Row 2 to desired length, ending on a RS row, then work one more row of dc. Fasten off. EDGING With RS facing, join Yarn B at beginning

100 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

The contrasting trim is added after making the runner, using a row of double crochet.

Use the photo as a guide or embroider your own abstract design in a contrasting shade.

of row, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, (spiked dc in next st one row below, dc in next st) to end. Fasten off. Repeat the above edging at the other end of the table runner. TO MAKE UP Weave in all ends. Using a wide-eyed needle and Yarn B, embroider an abstract fir tree pattern with straight stitches and backstitch, using the photos as a guide.

jollY hollY

n pattern with Lucy Croft’s fest e e r g r ive tr n eve a i a ng k o les. o H

ngles ia r t e s e h t e in Co mb skirt y c a l a m r o f to se o f a b e h t d n u o r a s t re e your christma

Make a motif

C

hristmas day wouldn’t be the same without holly, but with this simple motif you won’t need the real thing – and it’ll last for years! This design has loads of creative potential and is perfect for place mats, bunting, a tree skirt... the list is endless!

EASY-PEASY TO MAKE

DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QUK Alpaca Alpaca Baby DK

(80% baby alpaca, 20% superfine merino, 50g/112m), Yarn A Grass Green Yarn B Cherry Red Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook For yarn stockists, contact UK Alpaca 01884 243579 www.ukalpaca.com

ABBREVIATIONS Picot Ch2, ss to the second ch from the hook For a full list, see page 130.

NOTE When working Round 2, you will be working up one side of each chain/ss ‘arm’, and then down the other. You will need to find loops to work into on each side of this arm, so work into the remaining loop of the ch when you work out from the centre, and then into the ss of the previous round when you work back towards the centre.

(tr, picot, tr) in next ss, (htr, dc) in next ss, ss to next 2 ss and first ch on next arm; repeat from * twice omitting last ss. Fasten off. Round 3 Join Yarn B in any picot at the tip of a holly leaf, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same picot, *ch3, dc in next picot, ch3, (tr in next picot, ch3) twice, dc in next picot, ch3, (dc, ch3, dc) in picot at tip of leaf; repeat from * twice more omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. Round 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), *(3tr in ch-3 sp, tr in next st) 5 times, (tr, ch3, tr) into ch-3 corner sp, tr in next dc; repeat from * twice more omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off. BERRIES (MAKE 1 FOR EACH MOTIF) With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew berry to the centre of the motif using the long tail.

C TRIANGLE MOTIF Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) *Ch11, ss into bump on reverse of second ch from hook and bump on reverse of each of next 9 ch; TO MAKE UP rep from * twice more. [3 chain ‘arms’] Join motifs using whip stitch. Round 2 Working out from the centre: ss to first ch of Round 1, *ss to next ch, (dc, htr) in next ch, (tr, picot, tr) in next On the chart, all rounds are read in an ch, (htr, dc) in next ch, ss to next ch, dc anti-clockwise direction. in next ch, (htr, picot, htr) in next ch, dc Key in next ch, ss to next ch, picot, skip next Slip st (ss) Treble crochet (tr) ch (this is the ch at the top of the arm, Treble crochet (tr) Chain (ch) before the first ss), working back Double crochet (dc) towards the centre (mirror the stitches Magic loop Half treble crochet (htr) on the other side): ss to next ss, dc in Half treble crochet (htr) next ss, (htr, picot, htr) in next ss, dc in next ss, ss to next ss, (dc, htr) in next ss, Berry

102 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

SprucEd up Create a festive centrepiece for your dining table with a forest of tiny trees by Anne Egan.

DECORATIONS

W

hat could be more festive than a Christmas tree? A whole forest of them, of course! These dinky potted pines make the perfect table decorations or, if you’re decorating a small space, a crafty alternative to a traditional tree! NOTES The trees are made from the top down. An increase of 1 st is made in the centre of the row, and 2 sts evenly either side of the centre, unless specified otherwise. IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3.5MM

C LARGE TREE TREE SIDES (MAKE 2) Use both Cranberry and Fawn as main (Yarn A) and contrast (Yarn B) colours.

YOU WILL NEED King Cole Baby Alpaca DK (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Cranberry (510), Fawn (501), Grey (502) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Plastic plant pot, 9cm (3½in) diameter for Large Tree Q Tiny clay pot for Small Tree Q Play clay Q Polyester toy stuffing Q Various small buttons Q Small bamboo cane For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.co.uk Q

MEASUREMENTS Without stand and pot: Small Tree measures 11x11cm (4¼x4¼in) Large Tree measures 13x15cm (5x6in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

With Yarn A, ch2. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook. [1 dc] Row 2 Ch1, 2dc in next st. [2 dc] Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st to end. Row 4 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 1dc in last st. [3 dc] Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end. Row 6 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in last st. [4 dc] Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st to end. Row 8 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st, dc in each st to end. [5 dc] Row 9 Ch1, dc in each st to end. Row 10 Ch1, dc in each of next 2 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each st to end. [6 dc] Row 11 Ch1, dc in each st to end. Row 12 Ch1, dc in each st across, and increase by one stitch in the centre stitch, or the stitch as near to the centre as possible. [7 dc] Rows 13-23 Repeat Row 12. [17 dc] Rows 24-26 Ch1, dc in each st up to st before centre st, 2dc in next st, dc in centre st, 2dc in next st, dc in each st to end. [23 dc] Rows 27-32 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in last st. [35 dc] Fasten off. POT COVER With Grey, ch8, ss into first ch to form a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), 23tr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-3. [24 tr] Round 2 Ch3, 1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, (tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [32 tr]

104 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

Round 3 Working in back loops only: Ch3, tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. Round 4 Ch3, tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. Round 5 Ch3, 1tr in each of next 14 sts, 2tr in next st, 1tr in each of next 15 sts, 2tr in last st, ss to top of beg ch-3. [34 tr] Rounds 6-10 Increase evenly by 2 sts on each round. [44 tr after Round 10] Round 11 Ch3, tr in next 8 tr, tr2tog, (tr in next 9 tr, tr2tog) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [40 tr] Fasten off. SMALL TREE TREE SIDES (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, ch2. Rows 1-23 Work as for Rows 1-23 of Large Tree Sides. [17 dc] Rows 24-25 Work as for Row 24 of Large Tree Sides. [21 dc] Rows 26-27 Work as for Row 27 of Large Tree Sides. [25 dc] Fasten off. POT COVER With Grey, ch8, ss into first ch to form a ring. Round 1 (RS) Work as Round 1 for Large Tree Pot Cover. [24 tr] Round 2 Working in back loops only: Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. Round 3 Ch3, tr in each of next 6 sts, 2tr in next st, (1tr in each of next 7 sts, 2tr in next st) twice, ss to top of beg ch-3. [27 tr] Rounds 4-7 Increase by 3 sts evenly on each round. [39 tr] Round 8 Ch3, tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. Round 9 Ch3, tr in each of next 10 sts, tr2tog, (tr in each of next 11 tr, tr2tog) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [36 tr] Fasten off. TO MAKE UP (BOTH TREES) Weave in ends on WS. Embroider with Yarn B, and add small buttons, on both side pieces. Cut the plastic pot to fit the Pot Cover and slip Cover over pot. Cut bamboo cane to desired length, place between the WS of the two Tree Side pieces and surround with toy stuffing. With Yarn A, stitch the two pieces together around the stuffing and bamboo cane. Place a lump of play clay in the pot and push the other end of the ‘trunk’ into it. Top up the pot with a little toy stuffing.

Lucky starS Spruce up your branches with a colourful crochet garland designed by Anne Egan.

DECORATIONS

F

IMPROVE DK YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

3.5MM 4MM

or most of us, Christmas decorating means hunting for boxes of baubles in the loft and making sure those old faithful fairy lights still work. If you want to up your decorating game in time for 25 December then raid your stash for all that yarn you’ve been saving for a rainy day and hook it into a handmade garland! Transforming your tree has never been so easy. Making these motifs is addictive, and before you know it you’ll have hooked a whole stack. And they’re very versatile! Attach them to a wreath for a funky alternative to foliage, hang them from your mantelpiece, or customise a Christmas jumper with a scattering of snowflakes!

YOU WILL NEED Q DROPS

Karisma (100% wool, 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Off White (01), Dark Mustard (52), Blue Turquoise (60) Forest Green (47), Red (18) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook For stockists, contact Garnstudio www.garnstudio.com

MEASUREMENTS Solid star: 13cm (5in) diameter Open star: 12cm (4¾in) diameter Snowflake 1: 12cm (4¾in) diameter Snowflake 2: 14cm (5½in) diameter

ABBREVIATIONS htr2tog (Yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up loop) twice, yrh, draw through all loops on hook dc3tog (insert hook in next st, yrh, draw a loop through) 3 times, yrh, draw through all loops on hook 2-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in space/st indicated, yrh, pull up loop, yrh, draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting the hook in the same space/st each time, yrh, draw through all loops on hook 3-tr cluster As 2-tr cluster, but work brackets 3 times For a full list, see page 130.

106 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

NOTES Yarns A and B are colours of your choice from shades listed. Yarn A is used for the main star, and Yarn B for the edging and the points, if you wish. Make a centre pentagon first, then add points. Make as many motifs as you wish for your length of bunting.

C SOLID STAR CENTRE PENTAGON With Yarn A and a 3.5mm hook, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Dc in ring, ch1, (dc and ch1 count as first htr throughout), 9htr in ring, ss to top of beg htr. [10 htr] Round 2 Ch1, dc in ss, ch1, htr in the same st as the first dc, (htr in the next htr, 3htr in the next htr) 4 times, htr in the next htr, htr in the same st as the first dc, ss to top of the beg htr. [20 htr] Round 3 Ch1, dc in ss, ch1, htr in same st as 1st dc, (3htr, 3htr in next htr) 4 times, 3htr, htr in same st as 1st dc, ss to top of beg htr, do not fasten off. [30 htr] FIRST STAR POINT Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in next htr, ch1, 4htr, turn. [5 htr] Row 2 Dc in first htr, ch1, htr in each htr across, turn. [5 htr] Row 3 Dc in first htr, 2htr, htr2tog, turn. [3 htr] Row 4 Dc in htr2tog, ch1, htr in each htr across, skip last dc, turn. [3 htr] Row 5 Dc in first htr, htr2tog, turn. [1 htr] Row 6 Dc in htr2tog. Fasten off.

SUBSEQUENT STAR POINTS Skip the next unworked half treble from the final round of the central pentagon, and rejoin yarn so that the first stitch will be worked in the central half treble of the 3-htr group. Follow the instructions for the point as above, skipping the very first ch1 of Row 1. EDGING With a 4mm hook, join Yarn B just above the base of one of the points, ready to work up the point to the tip. Work 9dc evenly up to the point, ch3, work 9dc down the other side. At the base of the point, dc3tog by working the first part of the st in the base of the first point, the second part of the st in the skipped htr from final round of the central pentagon, and the third part of the st in the base of next point. Repeat for each point and ss into first st. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Block, and if you want a stiffer finish then spray with starch and iron on a wool setting. OPEN STAR CENTRE PENTAGON With a 4mm hook and Yarn A, ch5 and ss into the first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 10dc into ring, ss into beg dc. [10 dc] Round 2 Ch1, dc in ss, ch5 (dc and ch5 count as first tr and ch-3 throughout), tr in same st as first dc, *ch1, skip 1 dc, (tr, ch3, tr) in next dc; rep from * 3 more times, ch1, ss into second ch of beg ch-5. [10 tr, 5 ch-3 sp, 5 ch-1 sp] Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), *5dc in ch-3 sp, dc in next tr, dc in next ch-sp, dc in next tr; repeat from * 4 more times, ss into first dc. [40 dc] POINTS Change to Yarn B if you wish. Round 4 Ss in next 2 dc, (ch15, skip 8 dc, ss in next dc) around with last ss in dc at base of first ch-15. [5 ch-15 sp]

DECORATIONS

Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), *skip first ch of next ch-15 sp, dc in top 2 loops of next 7 ch, ch3, dc in same ch as last dc, dc in top 2 loops of next 6 ch, skip last ch of this ch-15 sp; rep from * 4 more times, ss into beg dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Block, and if you want a stiffer finish, then spray with starch and iron on a wool setting. SNOWFLAKE 1 (16 POINTS) With a colour of your choice and a 3.5mm hook, ch4, ss into first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as first st throughout), 8dc into ring, ss into first dc. [8 dc] Round 2 Ch2, 2-tr cluster in st at base of ch, (ch3, 3-tr cluster in next dc) 7 times, ch3, ss in top of 2-tr cluster. [8 clusters, 8 ch-3 sp] Round 3 Ch1, dc in top of 2-tr cluster, ch5, (dc in ch-3 sp, ch5, dc in 3-tr cluster, ch5) 7 times, dc in ch-3 sp, ch2, tr in first dc. [16 ch-5 sp, 16 dc] Round 4 *Ch6, ss in 3rd ch from hook, ch5, ss in same ss, ch3, ss in same ss, ch2, ss in next ch-sp; repeat from * around with final ss worked into top of last tr of previous round. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Block, and if you want a stiffer finish, then spray with starch and iron on a wool setting.

hook, ch5, ss into first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 12dc into ring, ss into first dc. [12 dc] Round 2 Ch1, dc in first st, ch6, (counts as tr and ch4), (skip 1 dc, tr in next dc, ch4) 5 times, ss into second ch of beg ch-4. [6 tr, 6 ch-4 sp] Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, (6dc in ch-4 sp, dc in tr) 5 times, 6dc in ch-4 sp, ss into first dc. [42 dc] Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first dc, *ch4, skip 3 dc, tr in sp before next dc, ch4, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc; rep from * 5 more times, omitting last dc on final repeat, ss into first dc. [6 tr, 6 dc, 12 ch-4 sp] Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), *6dc in next ch-4 sp, ch1, tr in next tr, ch3, ss in tr, ch3, dc in 2nd and 3rd ch from hook, ss in tr, ch3, ss in tr, ch1, 6dc in next ch-4 sp; repeat from * 5 more times, ss into first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Block, and if you want a stiffer finish, then spray with starch and iron on a wool setting.

Add a hanging loop and you can make these pretty stars into individual tree decorations.

These stars can be made using small amounts of yarn – perfect for hooking on the move!

TO MAKE UP With Red, make a length of chain as long as you need and thread it through the corner chain spaces of the motifs.

SNOWFLAKE 2 (6 POINTS) With a colour of your choice and a 4mm WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 107

DECORATIONS

EASY-PEASY TO MAKE

DK NO HOOK WEIGHT NEEDED!

YOU WILL NEED Q Small amounts of yarn in

assorted colours Q Double-sided satin ribbons in

assorted colours, each approx 3mm wide and 25cm (9¾in) long Q 2 gold bells, 1cm (¼in) diameter per marker Q Cardboard Q Fabric scissors Q Long, large-eyed sewing needle For yarn stockists, contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk

so quicke! to mak

W

ho doesn’t love a pompom? They can be put to an array of uses at Christmas time, from bunting to baubles, but our new favourite project has to be this smart idea of making glass markers. Pop one on each guest’s glass at your festive party and no one will lose their drink!

C HOW TO MAKE A POMPOM 1 Cut out two identical cardboard discs to the diameter of the intended pompom. Mark out a smaller circle in the centre of each disc. This will form a hole to allow yarn to be passed through. As a rule of thumb, this circle should be half the diameter of the outer circle. Cut the inner circles out. 2 Hold the two cardboard discs together and start to wind your chosen yarn round the rings. Cover the ring entirely until the hole in the centre has almost disappeared. 3 With fabric scissors, cut through the yarn between the cardboard discs round the outer edge. Cut round the entire circumference, releasing all of the yarn and revealing the cardboard discs inside. 108 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

let’S parTy! Make a rainbow of pompoms to spread festive cheer all around! 4 Tie a spare piece of yarn from your stash between the discs to secure the middle of the pompom. 5 Once knotted securely, tear the cardboard to release the pompom. 6 Finish by trimming the pompom into a neat ball. MAKING UP 1 Make as many pompoms in as many colours as you think you will need, and cut the corresponding number of ribbon lengths. 2 Trim the pompoms into neat balls and thread up a needle with a length of ribbon. Carefully thread the ribbon through the centre of the pompom and

remove the ribbon from the needle. Do this gently to avoid pulling yarn out of the pompom. 3 Tie a bell securely on to each end of the ribbon. This will add some festive cheer and stop the pompom coming loose. Repeat the above process until you’ve made enough wine glass markers to go around. This project is taken from 20 To Make: Pompom Christmas by Alistair Macdonald, published by Search Press, priced £4.99. For more information, visit www.searchpress.com.

chRistmaS dollS Add fun to the festivities with Santa’s little helpers, designed by Becky Garratt.

DECORATIONS

E

QKing Cole Baby Alpaca DK

nlist the help of these Scandi dolls to bring some festive cheer to your house this Christmas. Whether you choose to have them circling a table centrepiece or dancing across your mantlepiece, they’re sure to bring a smile to your visitors’ faces. Individual dolls could hold place cards on your Christmas table, perhaps.

(100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Cranberry (510), Fawn (501), Grey (502) QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook QPolyester toy stuffing QWooden beads (25mm diameter) QCraft glue QBlack pen to mark eyes For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670, www.kingcole.com

NOTES Each doll is made using a main colour for the body and hat (Yarn A), a contrast colour (Yarn B), and Grey for the Arms and Boots. The pattern uses the amigurumi method, where rounds are worked in a spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to use a stitch marker in the first st of each round, moving it up as you work.

EASY-PEASY TO MAKE

DK WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED

MEASUREMENTS Each doll measures 10x11cm (4x4¼in)l

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

C DOLL HAT (MAKE 1 FOR EACH DOLL) Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 4dc into loop, ss to first dc. [4 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [8 sts] Round 3 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [12 sts] Round 4 (Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [16 sts] Round 5 (Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [20 sts] Rounds 6-8 Dc in each st around. Change to Yarn B. Round 9 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. BODY (MAKE 1 FOR EACH DOLL) Using Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into loop, ss to first dc. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Rounds 4-6 Dc in each st around. Round 7 (Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts] Rounds 8-10 Dc in each st around. Round 11 (Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Rounds 12-14 Dc in each st around. Change to Yarn B. Round 15 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. ARMS (MAKE 2 FOR EACH DOLL) Using Grey, make a magic loop.

110 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

Little details like the plaited hair and embroidered dresses make all the difference. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into loop, ss to first dc. [5 sts] Round 2 2dc into each st around. [10 sts] Rounds 3-4 Dc in each st around. Change to Yarn B. Round 5 Dc in each st around. Change to Yarn A. Rounds 6-10 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. BOOTS (MAKE 2 FOR EACH DOLL) Using Grey, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 4dc into loop, ss to first dc. [4 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [8 sts] Round 3 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 4 times. [12 sts] Rounds 4-7 Dc in each st around. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Stitch a heart shape onto the front of the body using Yarn B. Plait some strands of Yarn B and sew into the Hat. Attach the Hat to the bead as follows: stitch the back of the Hat to the Body piece to hold in position, then glue the top of the bead to the inside of the Hat and the top of the Body. Mark eyes on the bead using black pen. Sew Arms onto Body. Keeping the Body relatively flat, add a little stuffing and sew across the bottom with the Boots in place so they are attached at the same time. Join each doll to the next doll with a few stitches through their hands.

wiNter Time Ring the changes with a Swiss-inspired cuckoo clock by Becky Garratt.

DECORATIONS

IMPROVE ARAN YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED QRico Creative Cotton Aran

(100% cotton, 50g/85m), 1 ball of each: Nougat (056), Nature (060), Tangerine (076), Red (005), Cherry (065), Light Pistachio (044), Light Green (040), Green (049); 2 balls of Brown (058) QA 4mm (US G/6) hook QToy stuffing QSmall amount of black felt For yarn stockists, contact Rico www.rico-design.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS 30cm (11¾in) wide by 40cm (15¾in) tall without pine cone weights, 65cm (25½in) tall with pine cone weights

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

H

ook a Christmassy wall-hanging that will make you smile year after year! This fun design is all about the details – there are icicles, snow-dusted evergreens, a redbreasted robin and even Father Christmas himself. For a real showstopper, how about swapping that crochet clock face for a real one?

C MAIN PIECE Using Brown, ch45. Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [44 sts] Rows 2-44 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 45-61 Ch1, skip next st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [Decrease by 2 sts on each row, 10 sts after Row 61] Rows 62-64 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off. BOTTOM BORDER Join Cherry to bottom-right corner of Main Piece. Row 1 (RS) 5htr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st, (skip next st, 5htr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) 10 times. Fasten off. ROOF SIDES (MAKE 2) Using Cherry, ch8. Row 1 (RS) 2dc in 2nd ch from hook, 4dc, dc2tog, turn. [7 sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc2tog, 4dc, 2dc in last st, turn. Row 3 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 4dc, dc2tog, turn. Row 4 As Row 2. Rows 5-22 Repeat Rows 3 and 4. Row 23 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 4dc, dc2tog. Fasten off. You can make 2 Roof Sides exactly the same, or reverse the shaping on the second piece (Row 1 would be dc2tog, 4dc, 2dc in last st) so that both of the pieces have RS facing. ROOF TOP Using Tangerine, ch21. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [20 sts] Rows 2-10 Ch1, skip next st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [Decrease by 2 sts each row, 2 sts after Row 10] Fasten off.

112 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

CLOCK FACE After Round 1, work in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. Use a marker in the first st of the round to help you keep track of rounds. Using Tangerine, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, 2dc) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (1dc, 2dc in next st, 3dc) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 7 (5dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 8 (2dc, 2dc in next st, 4dc) 6 times. [48 sts] Round 9 (Skip next st, 5htr in next st, skip next st, dc in next st) 11 times, skip next st, 5htr in next st, skip next st, ss in the first st of the round. Fasten off. Use Brown and backstitch to form the clock hands. Sew a circle of felt at the centre over the top of the stitching. FATHER CHRISTMAS BODY Work in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. Use a marker in the first st of the round to help you keep track. Using Red, ch7. Round 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, rotate to work into the other side of the foundation ch: dc in other side of each existing st. [12 sts] Round 2 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, 2dc) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 4 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Ss in the next st to smooth the edge. Fasten off. BEARD Work in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. Use a marker in the first st of the round to help you keep track. Using Nature, ch6. Round 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, rotate to work into the other side of the foundation ch, dc in other side of each

DECORATIONS existing st. [10 sts] Round 2 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times. [15 sts] Round 3 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times. [20 sts] Round 4 Dc in next st, skip next st, (5htr in next st, skip next st, ss in next st, skip next st) 4 times, 5htr in next st, skip next st, ss in first st of next round. [5 shells] Fasten off. HAT Join Red to the third htr of last shell on the Beard. Rows 1-2 Ch1 (does not count as a stitch throughout), 8dc, turn. Rows 3-4 Ch1, skip first st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [4 sts after Row 4] Row 5 Ch1, skip first st, 3dc, turn. [3 sts] Row 6 Ch1, skip first st, 2dc. [2 sts] Fasten off. BOBBLE Using Nature, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) 5htr into loop, ss to first htr to join. Fasten off and sew onto top of Hat. Sew the Beard/Hat onto the Body at a jaunty angle and add felt eyes. TREES LEFT TREE Using Light Green, ch9. Row 1 (RS) Dc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [8 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a stitch throughout), dc in each ch to end, turn. Rows 3-4 Ch1, skip first st, dc in each st to end, turn. [6 sts after Row 4] Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 6-7 As Rows 3-4. [4 sts after Row 7] Rows 8-9 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Change to Nature. Rows 10-12 Ch1, skip first st, dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off. With Nougat, join onto 4th st of foundation ch. Rows 1-4 Ch1, 3dc, turn. Fasten off. MIDDLE TREE Using Green, ch11. Row 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, 10dc, turn. [10 sts] Rows 2-7 Ch1 (does not count as a stitch throughout), skip first st, dc in

each st to end, turn. [4 sts after Row 7] Change to Nature. Rows 8-10 As Row 2. Fasten off. Join Nougat to 5th st of foundation ch. Rows 1-6 Ch1, 3dc, turn. Fasten off. RIGHT TREE Using Light Green, ch9. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [8 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a stitch throughout), dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 3-4 Ch1, skip first st, dc in each st to end, turn. [6 sts after Row 4] Row 5 As Row 2. Row 6 As Row 3. [5 sts] Change to Nature. Rows 7-10 As Row 3. Fasten off. Join Nougat to 4th st of foundation ch. Rows 1-5 Ch1, 3dc, turn. Fasten off. MAIN WINDOWS (MAKE 2) Using Nature, ch8. Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [7 sts] Rows 2-9 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off. SHUTTERS (MAKE 4) Using Light Pistachio, ch5. Row 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [4 sts] Rows 2-11 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off. Using Green, work long straight stitches across the width of each shutter, using the image as a guide. For the window frames, use Light Pistachio to make a length of ch to fit vertically and horizontally across each window. Sew into place. Make another length of ch to fit around the outside of each window. Sew into place. TOP WINDOW Using Nature, ch11. Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [10 sts] Rows 2-13 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Fasten off. For the window frame, use Light Pistachio to make a length of ch to fit

Instead of a traditional cuckoo, this festive version of the clock has a resident robin.

around the outside of the window. Sew into place. ROBIN After Round 1 on each piece, work in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. Use a marker in the first st of the round to help you keep track of rounds. BODY Using Nougat, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 5dc into loop, ss to first dc to join. [5 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 sts] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times. [15 sts] Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times. [20 sts] Rounds 5-6 Dc in each st around. Round 7 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times. [25 sts] Rounds 8-11 Dc in each st around. Round 12 (3dc, dc2tog) 5 times. [20 sts] Stuff. Round 13 (Dc2tog) 10 times. [2 sts] Fasten off, top up the stuffing and sew across the gap to close. BELLY Using Red, ch6. Round 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch to end, rotate to work into the other side of the foundation ch, dc in other side of each existing st. [10 sts] Round 2 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times. [15 sts] Round 3 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times. [20 sts] Ss in next st to smooth the edge. Fasten off. Sew the Belly onto the Body. Add circles of felt for eyes. Use Tangerine and straight stitches to sew on a beak. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 113

DECORATIONS ICICLES UNDER ROOF Using Nature: Row 1 Ch6, 3ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch3, 2ss, ch5, 3ss, ch8, 5ss, ch7, 3ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch7, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 2ss, ch5, 3ss, ch7, 5ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch4, 2ss, ch7, 4ss, ch6, 4ss, ch4, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch7, 4ss, ch2. Check that this length will fit under the apex of the roof and add more random ch and ss stitches if necessary. Row 2 Ss back across the top of this chain. Fasten off.

OUTER DETAIL Using Nougat, ch102. Row 1 (Skip 2 ch, 5tr in next ch, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch) 17 times. Fasten off. Wrap this around the main piece, sewing in place as you go.

ICICLES UNDER LEFT WINDOW Using Nature: Row 1 Ch6, 4ss, ch4, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch7, 4ss, ch2. Check the fit under the window. Row 2 Ss back across the top of this chain. Fasten off.

TO MAKE UP Pin Roof Sides onto the Main Piece so that they follow the roof apex (they might be a little curved before you pin them but they will pull straight). Sew into place. Sew Roof Top across Sides and Main Piece.

ICICLES UNDER RIGHT WINDOW Using Nature: Row 1 Ch6, 3ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch3, 2ss, ch5, 3ss, ch8, 5ss, ch7, 3ss, ch2. Check the fit under the window. Row 2 Ss back across the top of this chain. Fasten off.

Sew Clock Face centrally onto Main Piece so the bottom row is level with Row 9. Sew Father Christmas to the right of the Clock Face. Sew the Trees to the left of the Clock Face, with their trunks on the bottom row of Main Piece.

PINE CONES (MAKE 3) BASE Work in a spiral without closing off each round with a ss. Use a marker in the first st of the round to help you keep track. Using Brown, make a magic loop.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as a st), 6dc into loop. Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Rounds 3-11 Dc in each st around. Stuff. Round 12 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [2 sts] Top up stuffing. Fasten off, sewing the gap closed.

Sew on the Window and Shutter pieces so that the outside Shutter is about 2 sts in from edge and Shutters sit on Row 31. Place the base of the Windows slightly higher so that there are equal lengths of Shutter above and below each Window.

The three-dimensional pine cone weights have fantastic texture and are fun to hook.

Sew the Top Window into the centre of the space left at the top. Sew the Robin into the Top Window. Sew the Icicles onto the bottom of the Roof and under the Windows. To attach the Pine Cone Weights, use Green and ch25 for the central Pine Cone and ch20 for the outer two Pine Cones. Fasten off. Sew one end of the chain to the Pine Cone and the other end to the Main Piece of the clock. Sew on the central one first, so you can make sure it’s in the middle, and then attach the other two on either side. To hang the clock, use Brown and ch20. Ss back along this ch and fasten off. Sew onto the top of the Main Piece at the back, level with the top of the top window. Weave in any remaining ends.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK A MAGIC LOOP Working yarn Pull

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.

114 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

2 Insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook anticlockwise and pull the yarn through the loop.

3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Now work your sts into the Magic Loop, making sure you work over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).

4 Once you’ve worked the number of stitches you need, simply pull the tail end of the yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the first and last stitches and finish the first round.

DECORATIONS

IMPROVE YOUR SKILLS! Perfect your pretty popcorn stitches by making our super cute spruce

Fine Pine Becky Skuse’s dinky evergreen will have you hooking textured stitches lickety-split!

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 115

DECORATIONS

T

extured stitches are so much fun to play with, and popcorns are perfect for creating the bobbly texture of a tree! Leave yours plain to add a touch of greenery to your home or desk all year round, or add the puff stitch poinsettia to the top for a festive feel. The flower is quick and simple to crochet so you can use it to decorate other projects – make it in yellow and it looks just like a star! This mini make will help you master popcorn stitches and put you in a festive mood faster than you can say “pass the mince pies”!

EASY-PEASY TO MAKE

DK WEIGHT

3MM 4MM

YOU WILL NEED QAdriafil Classic Mirage DK (55%

wool, 45% acrylic, 50g/125m), 1 ball of each: Green (85), Red (17) Tree uses 12g of yarn, Flower uses less than 2g QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook QA 4mm (US G/6) hook For yarn stockists, contact Deramores 0800 488 0708 www.deramores.com

MEASUREMENTS Tree measures 8cm (3in) tall without flower

ABBREVIATIONS Picot Ch2, ss to first ch Puff stitch (Yrh, insert hook in stitch, yrh, pull up a loop) 3 times working into the same stitch as indicated, yrh, pull through all loops on hook Popcorn stitch Work 5tr into the next stitch, carefully remove working loop from hook, insert hook in top of first of the 5 tr from front to back, insert hook back into working loop and pull through the first tr, ch1 to secure popcorn. (On following rounds, work sts into the ch1 part of the popcorn stitch, not into the treble loops of the popcorn stitch.) For a full list, see page 130.

116 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

Forget the traditional star or angel – this tree is topped with a pretty poinsettia bloom.

NOTES The tree uses 12g of yarn and the Flower uses less than 2g. To make a larger tree, just add more rounds in the pattern as set. To make a larger flower, use a 4mm hook instead.

C CHRISTMAS TREE With Green and 4mm hook, make a magic loop. Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as stitch throughout), 4dc into the loop, ss to the first dc. [4 dc] Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), tr into st at the base of ch, 2tr into each remaining dc around. [8 tr] Round 3 Ch3, popcorn st in next st, (tr in next st, popcorn st in next st) around, ss to the top of the beginning ch-3. [4 popcorn sts, 4 tr] Round 4 Ch1, (dc in next st, 2dc in next st) around, ss to first dc. [12 dc] Round 5 Work as given for Round 3. [6 popcorn sts, 6 tr] Round 6 Ch1, (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts) around, ss to the first dc. [16 dc] Round 7 Work as given for Round 3. [8 popcorn sts, 8 tr] Round 8 Ch1, (dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) around, ss to the first dc. [20 dc] Round 9 Work as given for Round 3. [10 popcorn sts, 10 tr] Round 10 Ch1, (2dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts) around, ss to the first dc. [24 dc] Round 11 Work as given for Round 3. [12 popcorn sts, 12 tr] Round 12 Ch1, (dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) around, ss to the first dc. [28 dc] Fasten off and weave in ends.

The popcorn tree is completely hollow, ready to be filled up with tasty treats if you like.

POINSETTIA FLOWER Using Red and 3mm hook, make a magic loop, leaving a long tail. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 10dc into the loop, ss to the first dc. [10 dc] Round 2 (Ch2, puff st in next dc, picot, ch2, ss to next dc) 5 times, working final ss into dc at base of beg ch-2. [5 petals] Fasten off and weave in end. TO MAKE UP Use long tail from the magic loop to sew the flower to the top of the tree.

Workshop

puFfs aNd poPcornS Follow our step-by-step guide to add extra dimension to your crochet with textured popcorn and puff stitches.

What CouLd i LeaRn? Here’s the lowdown on what you need to know… Textured crochet stitches are one of the joys of hooking yarny fabrics. You can combine all sorts of stitches to create infinite effects of tempting texture. If you love our cute Christmas tree on page 115 but aren’t sure how to work the popcorn and puff stitches used in the project, our guide to these techniques will have you up and running in no time. And once you’ve mastered them you’ll have fun using them in all manner of makes!

POPCORN STITCHES

PUFF STITCHES These smooth stitches use a technique similar to working half trebles, so it will help to know how to work half trebles before trying puff stitches. They look similar on the front and back of the fabric.

These big, bumpy stitches use trebles, so you’ll need to know how to work trebles before trying popcorn stitches. You can work them so they ‘pop’ out on the front or back of the fabric.

WhiCh StiTch ShoUld i use? Take your pick from these four ‘lumpy’ stitches… There are various ways to create clumps and bumps in crochet fabric. The four most-used methods are puff stitches 01 , popcorns 02 , clusters 03 and bobbles 04 . Each stitch creates a slightly different look, making each one better for certain projects and stitch patterns. Each stitch uses a different technique to pack several stitches or part stitches into the width of one stitch, which tends to raise up away from the fabric to create a bump. Once you finish working each of these textured stitches, you’ll have one stitch to work into on the next row or round, so counting stitches is easy! Cluster and bobble stitches are both worked using part trebles. Start a treble in the usual way: *yrh, insert hook in

01

02

03

04

next st, yrh, pull up loop, yrh, pull through first 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Without finishing the previous part treble, work more part tr in the same way from *, into the same stitch. To work a cluster, you usually need to work 3 part tr. For a bobble,

work 6 part tr (or follow the instructions in your pattern). To finish the stitch, yrh, pull through all loops on hook. For a bobble stitch, you also need to work ch1 to secure it and form a neat st to work into on the next row. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 117

how do i Make Puff StiTches? Master this strokeable stitch with these simple steps. To practise puff stitches, make one row of 16 treble stitches (so ch18, work a treble into the 4th chain from the hook and in each chain to the end). On the second row, make the 3-ch t-ch. Now work a puff stitch into the top of the next stitch on the row below, as follows: *Work yrh, insert hook into next stitch, yrh and pull up a loop of yarn (3 loops on hook). Bring the loop of yarn up to the same height as a treble stitch (match the height of the turning chain and you should be fine) 01 . Now repeat from * twice more. You should have 7 loops on the hook. Now work one more yrh 02 and pull this through all the loops on the hook 03 . To secure the stitch, chain 1 (yrh and pull through one loop) 04 . Your puff stitch will be complete and you’ll be ready to work your next puff stitch.** To do this, repeat from * to ** but skip one stitch on the row below and work into the following stitch – this will help to space out your puff stitches. In this swatch, we’re going to count both the puff stitch top loop and the ch1 as stitches, so each puff stitch will count as 2 sts and skipping a stitch on the row below after each puff stitch will maintain the same stitch count. Some patterns may only count the ch1 as a stitch so follow the instructions in the pattern you’re working with. Make more puff stitches in the same way to the end of the row (make 7 puff stitches), then work a plain treble stitch into the top of the turning chain on the row below 05 . You’ll see how the stitches look like little puffs of yarn – if you lie your fabric flat, the puffs should stand out a little from the treble stitches in the fabric. Turn your work and then you can either make another row of puff stitches in the same way, or work a plain row of 16 treble stitches like

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we did. From the wrong side of the fabric 06 , you’ll see that the puff stitches look very similar, so you can work them on the right side or wrong side of your fabric – very handy! In a pattern, you’ll usually see a puff stitch like the one above written as follows: (Yrh, insert hook in next stitch, yrh, pull loop of yarn through stitch) 3 times, yrh, pull through all loops on hook. This sort of puff stitch has 3 repeats, which means you pulled a loop of yarn through the stitch on the row below 3 times. You can make larger puff stitches by increasing the number of times you work this part of the technique. Use the swatch you’ve already started to practise working a puff stitch that has 4 repeats. Start the next RS row with the 3-ch t-ch, then work a puff stitch into the top of the next stitch on the row below, as follows: (Yrh, insert hook in stitch, yrh, pull loop of yarn through stitch) 4 times. You should have 9 loops on the hook. Remember to pull the loops of yarn up to the same height as a treble stitch. Yrh, pull through all loops on hook. Chain 1. Now work yrh, skip 1 stitch and work another 4-repeat puff stitch into the next stitch. Continue in this way to the end of the row (make 7 puff stitches), and work a plain treble stitch into the top of the turning chain on the row below. Turn and make a row of 16 treble sts. Then try making a row of puff stitches with 5 repeats – simply work each puff stitch in the same way as before, but repeat the bracketed section 5 times instead of 4 times, as follows: (Yrh, insert hook in stitch, yrh, pull loop of yarn through stitch) 5 times. You’ll notice that the puff stitches get larger and closer together, which creates a slightly different effect in your fabric 07 .

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118 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

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workshop how do i Work PopCorn StiTches? Here’s how to work stitches that ‘pop’ out of your fabric.

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Space out your popcorn stitches by a working plain treble into the next two stitches. Then you can work a popcorn stitch into the next stitch in the same way as before, repeating from *. Continue the row in this way and make 4 popcorn stitches in total 05 . These popcorn stitches will all pop out on the front of the work as you make them, so if you work them on the right side they will ‘pop’ out of the front of the work. To make popcorn stitches that will ‘pop’ out on the reverse side of the work as you make them, you will need to work a back popcorn stitch. To do this, turn your work, make the 3-ch t-ch and treble into the next stitch. Now work a back popcorn stitch into the next stitch (this will be the ch1 part of the popcorn stitch on the row below, don’t work into the popcorn stitch loop that lies next to it). Now work in the exact same way as the front popcorn stitch above, from * 06 , but when you reach ^, you need to insert the hook from back to front, into the top of the first of the 5 trebles you made 07 , then back into the working loop 08 and pull through 09 . Chain 1 to complete the stitch, then work more back popcorn stitches and trebles across the rest of the row as before. Turn and you’ll find that this gives you two rows of popcorn stitches that all ‘pop’ out on the front or right side of the fabric 10 . Now try making our Christmas tree project…

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Written by Becky Skuse

These little stitches are so much fun, they ‘pop’ right out of your fabric. The small bumps look similar to bobble stitches, but you can work them using any stitch, even double crochet, so you can create much smaller bumps. We’re going to show you how to work them using treble crochet. You can make popcorn stitches on right side or wrong side rows, so that they ‘pop’ out of the front or the back of your fabric. We’ll show you how to work both types so that the bumps only show on the front or right side of the crochet fabric. To practise working popcorns, make one row of 14 treble stitches (so ch16, work a treble into the 4th chain from the hook and in each chain to the end). On the second row, make the 3-ch t-ch and work a treble into the next stitch. Now work a front popcorn stitch into the top of the next stitch on the row below, as follows: *In the next stitch, work 5 whole treble stitches as usual 01 . After the final treble is finished, carefully remove the hook from the working loop.^ Insert the hook into the top of the first treble you made in this group of 5 trebles. Make sure you insert the hook into the loop from front to back 02 . Insert the hook back into the working loop 03 and pull it through the top of the first stitch 04 . Finish the stitch by making 1 chain – this will form the top of the stitch that you’ll work into on the next row.

So scAndi Be inspired by a Nordic Christmas to hook these cute decorations by Hannah Cross and Anne Egan.

DECORATIONS

EASY PEASY TO MAKE

DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED King Cole Baby Alpaca DK (100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m), 1 ball of each: Cranberry (510), Fawn (501), Grey (502) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Polyester toy stuffing Q Various small buttons Q Ribbon for hanging For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.co.uk Q

MEASUREMENTS Tree: approx 10x7cm (4x3in) Bird: approx 9x7cm (3½x2¾in) Star: 6cm (2¼in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 130.

B

righten up your Christmas decorating this year with this trio of red and white Nordic ornaments. Anne Egan’s cute little padded tree is so simple to make, and perfect for crochet newbies. Her sweet bird is also sure to be a festive favourite – why not make a whole flock to hang from your tree or mantelpiece? Then Hannah Cross’s round star bauble is a safer alternative to glass ornaments on your tree – ideal if you have young children or pets to keep an eye on! TRIANGLE TREE NOTES Each Tree is made with a main colour, Yarn A, and a contrast colour, Yarn B. Use shades of your choice.

C TREE SIDES (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, ch8. Row 1 (RS) Dc in eighth ch from hook (to form hanging loop), turn. [1 dc] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 2dc in next st, turn. [2 dc] Row 3 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st, turn. [3 dc] Row 4 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st, increasing by 1 stitch in the centre st, or as near as possible to the centre st. [4 dc] Row 6 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 7-19 Repeat Rows 5 and 6. [10 dc] Rows 20-21 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st, dc in each st to end, turn. [12 dc] Row 22 Ch1, dc in first st , 2dc in next st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in last st, turn. [14 dc] Row 23 Ch1, dc in first st , 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in last st, turn. [17 dc] Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Weave in ends on WS. With Yarn B, embroider both Tree Side pieces using the images as a guide. Stuff and stitch together around the entire edge with Yarn B. Thread a piece of ribbon through chain loop to hang, if desired. FESTIVE BIRD NOTES The wings on the bird are optional. If you don’t want to crochet them, you

You could add some essentials oils to your toy stuffing so your decorations smell good, too!

The bird’s wings can be embroidered on instead, if you’re short on time.

can embroider a wing shape with contrast yarn instead. BIRD SIDES (MAKE 2) Make 2 pieces, 1 in Cranberry and 1 in Fawn. Ch7. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. [6 dc] Row 2 Ch2, 2dc in second ch from hook, dc in each dc to last st, 2dc in last dc, turn. [9 dc] Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 2dc in next dc, dc in each dc to last st, 2dc in last dc, turn. [11 dc] Rows 4-6 Repeat Row 3. [17 dc] Rows 7-12 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. HEAD Row 13 Ch1, dc in each of next 8 dc, WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 121

DECORATIONS the edge with contrast yarn to join, stitching the Beak in place as you go. Stitch on button for eyes. Thread ribbon through ch loop for hanging. ROUND STAR BAUBLE CIRCLE (MAKE 2) Each decoration uses 3 shades of yarn of your choice: Yarns A, B and C. With Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to form a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), 11tr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-3. [12 tr] Round 2 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [24 tr] Fasten off Yarn A. Join Yarn B. Round 3 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in next st, (2tr in next st, tr in next st) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [36 tr] Fasten off.

These sweet little squashy baubles are made up of rounds of treble stitches. Once you’ve mastered the pattern, you can experiment with colours to match your festive décor.

turn leaving rem sts unworked. [8 dc] Row 14 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in each st to end, turn. [7 dc] Row 15 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in each of next 4 dc, dc2tog, turn. [5 dc] Row 16 Ch1, dc in each of next 3 dc, dc2tog, turn. [4 dc] Row 17 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in next 2 dc, ss in last dc. [2 dc] Fasten off. TAIL Rejoin yarn with RS facing, 5 dc from end of Row 12. Row 13 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in next 4 dc to end, turn. [4 dc] Row 14 Ch1, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, turn. [3 dc] Row 15 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in next 2 dc to end, turn. [2 dc] Row 16 Ch1, dc2tog. [1 dc] Turn by 90 degrees and dc evenly around outside of entire motif, making a ch-8 loop just behind the Head on one of the pieces. Fasten off. WING (MAKE 2) With a contrast yarn colour of your 122 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

choice, ch2. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, turn. [1 dc] Row 2 Ch1, 3dc in next dc, turn. [3 dc] Row 3 Dc in each st to last 2 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in last st, turn. [4 dc] Rows 4-7 Repeat Row 3. [8 dc] Rotate on side and dc evenly to point of wing, 3dc in point and dc back down other side. Fasten off. BEAK With contrast colour, ch2, 2dc in second ch from hook. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Weave in ends on WS for one Wing and one Bird Side piece, and on RS for the other Wing and Bird Side piece. With contrast yarn, stitch each Wing in place to each Bird Side piece, with one Bird Side piece facing in one direction and the other Bird Side piece facing in the opposite direction. With Wings on the outside, place Bird Sides together, stuff and stitch around

STAR MOTIF (MAKE 2) With Yarn B, ch2. Round 1 (RS) *Dc in second ch from hook, ch3; rep from * four times more, ss in first st. [5 points on star] Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Sew each Star to the centre of each Circle using Yarn C. Place Circles WS together and work a dc seam around the outside. Before completing the seam, ch6, ss to first ch, stuff, and then finish the seam. Fasten off. With Yarn C, work a running stitch around the dc seam. Thread a piece of ribbon through the chain loop to hang.

You can also buy a copy in WHSmiths, leading supermarkets and major newsagents

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Ticket Offer: Quote CBOOK16 for £2.00 off*! Alexandra Palace, London 5th – 9th October 2016 Harrogate International Centre 24th- 27th November 2016 The deinitive event for anyone with a love of textile based crafts. Supplies, workshops and textile art. www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com 0844 581 1302 (+44 (0) 121 796 6100 from outside the UK) Image: Alice Kettle - Pause 2009 (detail) Photo: Joe Low

Workshops in association with:

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*Valid on adult tickets in advance or £1.00 off concessions. Terms and conditions and £1.50 fulilment fee applies.

The guide

Crochet essentials Over the next few pages you’ll find simple step-by-step guides to many useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook. HOLDING THE HOOK

HOLDING THE YARN

Try these methods and see which works best.

Even tension results in even stitches.

PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.

KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.

METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.

METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.

3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.

4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.

1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.

2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain.

How to count chains

9

1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.

2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.

3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains stated in your pattern.

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Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.

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1

SLIP STITCH (ss)

WORKING IN ROWS

This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds.

Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.

1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.

2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.

1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.

2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.

1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.

4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.

1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

126 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).

4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.

The guide TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.

1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.

2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.

3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.

4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet

This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook). 3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).

This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2

Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). 4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

TURNING CHAIN (t-ch) For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain. In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of

chains. The table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.

STITCH

Add to foundation chain before starting row

Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)

For turning chain (counts as first st)

Double crochet

1 ch

1 ch*

1 ch*

Half treble

1 ch

2 ch

2 ch

Treble

2 ch

3 ch

3 ch

Double treble

3 ch

4 ch

4 ch

Triple treble

4 ch

5 ch

5 ch

loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

How to count stitches Check your work is correct. Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).

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HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully. Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally.

INCREASING AND DECREASING Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.

INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.

DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.

1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.

2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.

How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension. Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.

128 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed. Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.

The guide HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR

FOUNDATION RING

Create stripes and other colour effects.

Create a foundation ring for working in the round.

1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and pick up the new one with your hook.

2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.

1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…

2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given below.

WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING Make circles, tubes and other shapes by working simple rounds of crochet stitches.

1 Make a foundation ring (as described above right) and then work the correct number of chains for the t-ch, for example, 3ch for a treble.

2 Now work the stitch as you would on a row, but insert the hook into the centre of the ring rather than each chain loop. For a treble, yrh, insert into the ring.

3 Continue with the treble stitch, working in the same way as you would on a row. So yrh and pull yarn through the loop. Then yrh and pull yarn through first 2 loops.

JOINING ROUNDS Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.

4 Finish off the treble stitch by working yrh and pull yarn through 2 loops. Continue making stitches into the ring as instructed in your pattern.

Rounds or spirals

1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.

2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.

3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless you pattern instructs you otherwise.

Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left). Other patterns are worked in a spiral so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.

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©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com

Check which technique to use.

Crochet hook conversions

Abbreviations across alt approx beg bl BPtr

ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) 3-tr cl

cont dc dc2tog

dec dtr dtr2tog fl foll/folls FPtr

to end of the row alternate/alternating approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post treble: yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as treble st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg ch-3 clusters (yrh, insert hook in sp/st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) 3 times, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh & draw through all loops on hook continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post treble: work in opposite way to BPtr

htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s) meas p or pc patt(s) pm prev rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) tbl t-ch(s) tog tr tr2tog

ttr WS yoh yrh * [] or ()

half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s) measures picot pattern(s) place marker previous remains or remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) through back loop turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 2 times, yrh and draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn over hook yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as directed work or repeat all instructions in the brackets as directed

Crochet abbreviation conversions Use this handy table to convert UK crochet terms to US crochet terms, or vice versa. Also see individual stitch explanations on previous pages.

UK

US

chain

ch

chain

ch

slip stitch

ss

slip stitch

ss

double crochet

dc

single crochet

sc

half treble

htr

half double

hdc

treble

tr

double

dc

double treble

dtr

treble

tr

triple treble

ttr

double treble

dtr

130 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

UK

METRIC

US

14

2mm

–

13

2.25mm

B/1

12

2.5mm

–

–

2.75mm

C/2

11

3mm

–

10

3.25mm

D/3

9

3.5mm

E/4

–

3.75mm

F/5

8

4mm

G/6

7

4.5mm

7

6

5mm

H/8

5

5.5mm

I/9

4

6mm

J/10

3

6.5mm

K/10½

2

7mm

–

0

8mm

L/11

00

9mm

M/13

000

10mm

N/15

Which hook do I use? Choosing the right size hook for the yarn you’re crocheting is important. Hook size

UK yarn weight

2.5-3.5mm hook

4ply yarn

3.5-4.5mm hook

double knitting yarn

5-6mm hook

aran yarn

7mm and bigger

chunky yarn

Crochet naturally

Work crochet stitches your own way. Everyone has their own style when crocheting, so if you find any of our instructions hard to follow, just practise with a hook and some yarn to find a style you’re comfortable with. Most people crochet with the hook in one hand and the working yarn in the other, but you don’t have to. To get some ideas, look at how other crocheters work, or watch some videos on the internet. As long as you have some tension between the working yarn and your work, your crochet results should work out fine.

Crochet C H R I S T M A S

o s fr i te r u vo y r fa pl You im S

m

et h oc r C

Crochet C H R I S T M A S Get ready for a cosy Christmas with this collection of festive projects from Simply Crochet. From gifts for all the family to unique handmade decorations, there’s something here to suit every crocheter and every home. Plus there are gorgeous patterns for accessories in every style from relaxed to glam, so you can treat yourself to a new winter wardrobe in time for Christmas!

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM