Wroclaw In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Wrocław No. 35, January - April 2016

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2016 European Capital of Culture

Contents

Feature 2016 Capital of Culture

6

Arrival & Transport

8

City Basics Basic History

12 14

Culture & Events

16

Restaurants Cafés

72

Shopping

74

Directory

80

Hotels

82

Maps & Index Street Index

88

22

Listings Index

90

42

Features Index City Map

91 92

City Centre Map

94

Nightlife

44

Sightseeing

52 54 63 64 67 70

The Old Town Gnomes Ostrów Tumski Centennial Hall & Parks Jewish Wrocław

Leisure

IN PRINT  ONLINE  ON YOUR MOBILE 

Head to Barbara (p.7) to put your finger on the pulse of Wrocław’s Capital of Culture campaign, and learn more about Wrocław’s love of © Press materials ESK Wrocław 2016 neon on p.62. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

January - April 2016

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Foreword With the powder keg of 2016 ready to erupt as we write this, it’s a time of milestone moments and great excitement in Lower Silesia’s capital city. As we at IYP send our landmark 35th issue of Wrocław  In Your Pocket   to press (huzzah!), the city is celebrating our accomplishments in grand style by kicking off a year-long programme of special cultural events. Okay, so there’s also the small official matter of Wrocław being European Capital of Culture  in 2016 (page 6), but we like to think we’ve played our part in bringing prestige and tourist interest to Wrocław during the twelve year spotlight we’ve put on this city. As we’ve been saying for the past decade-plus, it’s no surprise that Wrocław has been selected to stand out amongst Europe’s great cities. Situated sublimely on the Odra River, Wrocław easily holds its own with its more-celebrated neighbours Vienna, Kraków and Prague in terms of aweinspiring architecture, postcard panoramas and dawnbreaking parties. Everything you need to know for a most memorable time has been meticulously transcribed within these pages, so please reward our hard work by giving it a good read and keeping it securely in your pocket  as  as you go out and feel the Wroclove this season.

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Company Office & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 Accountant:  Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716 Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Editorial Editor: Garrett van Reed; Contributing writer: Janina Krzysiak; Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Anna Żbikowska; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak;  unless otherwise Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket  unless stated; Cover © sinuswelle | Dollar Photo Club Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warsaw Manager: Klaudia Briss 606 749 643 Poznań/Wrocław Manager:  Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642 Gdańsk/Łódź Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824

FEATURE

Copyright Notice & Editor’s Editor’s Note  Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa Rek lamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No N o part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket  is  is used under license from UABIn Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, 9 -4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).  The editorial editor ial content of In Your Pocket  guides  guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

2016 is finally upon us as Wrocław proudly dons the prestigious mantle of European Capital of Culture. With literally hundreds of events scheduled to take place, there’s certainly never been a better time to visit the city. Turn to page 6 to find out more.

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Wrocław In Your Pocket

Our new digital platform, online at inyourpocket.com, is a radically redesigned and restructured resource which places the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover. The new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop, tablet or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats. Meantime, back in the world of print, we are close to completing the first issue of Kaliningrad IYP: watch this space for more info.  To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket , follow us on Facebook  (facebook.  (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter   (twitter. com/inyourpocket). wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

2016 European Capital of Culture

Even as opposing views on politics, monetary policy, immigration, and various contemporary crises challenge the European Union, there’s there’s one thing seemingly everyone can agree on - there’s a wealth of culture and history to be celebrated on the Old Continent. With that in mind, the European Capital of Culture programme was proposed in 1983 by Greek Minister of Culture Melina Mercouri, who wanted a greater emphasis placed on cultural matters in order to build togetherness and a shared identity between EU member states. Two years later, Athens became the first title-holder; since then, each year has seen one or two cities put in the spotlight for twelve months of special cultural events, which help to raise the visibility visibilit y of often-underrated (or little-known) places, give them a bit of pride and prestige, and effectively bring about urban regeneration.  This last point has become one of the most successful and valued aspects of the programme - to the point that the predicted level of improvement is now considered as a main criterion when poring over candidates. Poland has had one Capital of Culture representative already, with Kraków (a rather obvious choice) holding the title in 2000. Now, sixteen years later, it’s Wrocław’s time to shine as the city dives into a year of cultural appreciation and contemplation together with 2016 co-capital San Sebastián, Spain. It really is past time to put this dame of a city on the wider European tourist radar. A place with a rich and tragic history, Wrocław was established in the 10th century by Bohemian duke Vratislaus I, and found itself bouncing between the Bohemians, Poles, Habsburgs, and Prusso-Germans throughout the ages. Mix in a sizeable Jewish population before the tragedy of the Holocaust, and you’ve got a place where cultures meshed, and shared Central European history was created. What resulted was a splendidly beautiful beautifu l agglomeration of Gothic and Baroque architecture, with what is quite possibly the most striking Main Square in 6 

Wrocław In Your Pocket

present-day Poland, depending who you ask. Sadly, WWII brought large-scale devastation to Wrocław, with half of the Old Town and 90% of the suburbs turned to rubble, and the communist times weren’t much kinder, with drab, concrete Socialist architecture mushrooming outside the centre and invading space opened up by destroyed historic buildings.  The post-war years saw a cultural cultural metamorphosis metamorphosis take place as German inhabitants were forced out of the newly-Polish territory and newcomers flooded in, pushing the city’s Jewish and German heritage out of sight and out of mind. It was time for Wrocław to take on a new identity to fit the needs of a new people - and much time would pass before the city would proudly embrace its complex, convoluted roots once more. With a vibrant cultural scene, openness to diversity, and ongoing rejuvenation projects - especially in the north-of-the-Oder Nadodrze district, which is rising out of post-war poverty like a phoenix from the ashes Wrocław is now ready to present itself to the world and be appreciated for the remarkable place that it has been and continues to be.  The goals goals for 2016 are simple - the city wants to enhance its visibility, boost local pride, increase the number of tourists, improve access to culture, stimulate artistic initiatives, and create an open, dynamic space to conduct dialogue about Wrocław’s cultural evolution in the past and future. But mostly, for tourists and Vratislavians alike, the European Capital of Culture title will mean a year chock-full of shows, concerts, conferences, exhibitions, meetings, and other cultural events organised into eight disciplines: opera, theatre, visual arts, music, film, performance, literature, and architecture, each managed by a different prominent curator. The overarching theme will be to view Wrocław in four contexts - by itself, as the capital of Lower Silesia, as Poland’s fourth-largest city, and as a point of interest on the European and global map. Here’s to the start of an engaging and enriching year! wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

2016 European Capital of Culture With literally thousands of events scheduled to take place in the next twelve months, 2016 promises to be the biggest year in Wrocław’s recent history, and there’s certainly never been a better time to visit. Though the most marquee events will take place in the spring and summer, there is still plenty to be excited for in the first third of the year, beginning with the Opening Weekend on January 15-17, which promises almost 100 events in just three days. Below we list some of the highlights from the first four months, but you’ll find even more in our Events section starting on page 16; more info and full programme details in English can be found online at the city’s official Capital of Culture website: wroclaw2016.pl

16.01 SATURDAY � 20.03 SUNDAY MADE IN EUROPE: E UROPE: 25 YEARS OF THE MIES VAN DER ROHE AWARD Also known as the European Union Award for Contemporary Architecture, the Mies van der Rohe Award is one of the most prestigious recognitions an architect can get in this part of the world. Given biennially, in 2015 it was awarded to Barozzi Veiga for his design of the Szczecin Philharmonic Hall. This exhibition will feature architectural models, project documentations, and multimedia presentations.QC-3, Architecture Museum, ul. Bernardyńska 5, www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 17:00, Wed Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Ticket 10/7zł, Wed free.

15.01 FRIDAY � 17.01 SUNDAY MERCOURI/XENAKIS  This interdisciplinary festival is dedicated to the memory of Melina Mercouri (creator of the European Capital of Culture programme, talented actress, and former Greek Minister of Culture) and French-Greek composer / music theorist Iannis Xenakis. Planned events include a photo exhibition, three concerts (symphonic, chamber, electro-acoustic), Wolności and a show.QA-4, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, www.nfm.wroclaw.pl. Ticket price depends on the event.

16.01, 25.01, 30.01, 06.02 MUSEUM OF DREAMS  This special painting-literature-music-theatre project will kick off Wrocław’s year as the European Capital of Culture.  The National National Museum exhibition space will be acting as the stage for nine performances inspired by paintings such as Wassily Kandinsky’s Evening and Władysław Podkowiński’s Podkowiński’s Meeting  (directed by Jacqueline Kornmüller).QD-3, National Museum, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, www.mnwr.art.pl. Event starts at 16:00. Tickets 10-20zł. Available at National Museum box office (Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon).

17.01 SUNDAY SPIRITS OF WROCŁAW �AWAKENING� �AWAKENING� � OPENING CEREMONY  The Capital of Culture year will kick off in grand style with a dramatic performance and parade directed by Chris Baldwin, with costume design desi gn by Philippe Geffroy. Four giant Spirits of Wrocław - the Spirit of the Flood, the Spirit of Many Faiths, the Spirit of Rebuilding, or the Spirit of Innovation will awaken and gradually make a 5-7 km journey from the Wrocław suburbs to the market square, where the four will come together in a spectacular multi-media show that will not only tell the rich history of the city but also completely transform the market square and surrounding buildings as part of the set. Further details of the event have not been disclosed in an effort to surprise and stimulate the audience, which everyone is invited to become a part of. Promising to be one of the biggest events of any kind in the city’s history, ‘Awakening’ will include over 1300 artists, 200 singers, 50 soldiers, 20 outstanding musicians, 300 cyclists, 30 light installations, 30 gigantic effigies and five trams.QA/B-3, Market Square. Event starts at 16:00. 15.01 FRIDAY � 13.03 SUNDAY SOUNDS � EDUARDO CHILLIDA As a gesture of dialogue and solidarity with Wrocław’s partner Capital of Culture, San Sebastián, this exhibition of works by Basque abstract sculptor Eduardo Chillida will be on display at the BWA Awangarda Gallery from January until March.QB-3, Galeria Awangarda, ul. Wita Stwosza 32, tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, www.bwa.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Admission 8/4zł, Wed free. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

FORGOTTEN CITY Unconventional artistic events and concerts will take place throughout the entire year in “forgotten” spaces including townhouse stairwells, historic courtyards, and dingy underpasses. The programme is undisclosed at press time, so keep close watch. QEvent takes place in various locations.

INFO & MEETING POINT BARBARA Launched last summer as the official information centre and meeting point for Wrocław’s Capital of Culture tenure, this modern, minimal and versatile space functions as a cafe, gallery, concert venue and cultural centre. With a welcoming atmosphere thanks to huge street-side windows, here you’ll find helpful staff, plenty of free promotional materials and events programmes, plus computers with access to more information online. Barbara will also host exhibitions, lectures, workshops, concerts and other happenings, so it’s absolutely the first place you should go to get plugged into what buzzing in Wrocław as part of the Capital of Culture programme.QB-3, ul. Świdnicka 8C, tel. (+48) 717 12 75 75, www.wroclaw2016.pl. Open 08:00 20:00. January - April 2016

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 Arrival & Transport Transport

Served by it’s own airport (with a new 3-storey terminal) only 13km from the city centre, a gorgeous, recentlymodernised train station and one of the country’s best highways connecting it to Berlin to the west and Kraków to the east, it’s it ’s never been easier to get to or from Wrocław. Wrocław. Several trains depart to Germany and Czech Republic each day, the city is a hub for Polski Bus, and also boasts a comprehensive and easy to use tram system. In this section you’ll find all you’ll need to know about getting to and getting around Wrocław.

BY TRAIN Wrocław is well-designed for train travel, boasting a gloriously renovated main train station that was at one time the largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before the Euro Cup, today Wrocław’s Dworzec Główny is arguably the nicest train station in Poland, making a wonderful impression on all those who arrive via the rails. Located just south of the market square, from here it is possible to catch quick domestic connections to Kraków (3.5hrs), Warsaw (4hrs) and Poznań (2.5hrs), but international destinations like Berlin and Prague require a changing of trains. Miłej  podróży! 

WROCŁAW MAIN TRAIN STATION  The beneficiary of a massive modernisation project, Wrocław’s main train station has never looked better. Completed in 1857, this grandiose Neo-Gothic building, with its decadent exterior of turrets and crenellations, looks more like a storybook palace than a modern transportation hub. Just south of the Old Town, Wrocław Główny is 8 

Wrocław In Your Pocket

preceded by a public square dotted with benches and two playful fountains flanking the front entrance. Inside, all the elegant architectural details of the original design have been brought back to life, while new digital displays give you all the arrival and departure info you need. Modernised to be completely handicap accessible, there are even handy conveyors to put your luggage on if you chose the stairs. Other amenities include 24-hour ticket windows, automated ticket machines inside and out, an information desk (open 07:00 - 21:00), lockers and a left luggage service, ATMs (bankomat), currency exchange offices (kantor), comfortable waiting rooms, and a plethora of shops, restaurants and cafes. Overall it adds up to the most convenient, comfortable, and easy to navigate train station in Poland. Visit the Polish railways website at rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English language functionality to check the departure times ahead of travelling, and the large digital display board in the station for the number of the platform (peron). As for getting into town, you are basically in it, with most of the city’s hotels and hostels within 15mins walking distance. You can take a tram two stops north to Galeria Dominikańska to get a bit closer to the market square (head west from there), or hop in one of the taxis waiting of front of both station entrances. QB-6, ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www. rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

 Arrival & Transport Transport BY PLANE Wrocław can boast one of Poland’s most efficient and modern airports, thanks to the shiny new terminal built a few hundred metres from the old one and opened in March 2012. Completed ahead of the Euro 2012 Football Championships the new terminal can handle over 3 million passengers annually and is Ryanair’s first hub in Poland. WROCŁAW AIRPORT Wrocław’s modern airport does a fine job of ushering people in and out of the city. Just 13km west of the city centre you should be through passport control and baggage claim rather quickly, at which stage you will probably start thinking about local cash. We recommend using an ATM (‘bankomat’) as the airport’s currency exchange desk offers what we might politely call ‘NOT the best exchange rates in town.’ At the airport you’ll also find press stores, tourist and airport information desks, a restaurant, bars and a coffee shop.

 The city is finally finally developing a rail link between the airport and the Old Town, but at the moment the most sensible way to get to the centre is via bus 406, which runs roughly every 20mins between 05:00 and 24:00 from the airport to the train station (B-6), with central stops also at Pl. Orląt Lwowskich (E-4) and Renoma (A-4). Night bus 249 departs the airport for the centre at 00:37, 03:18 and 04:19. Bus tickets cost 3.00zl during the day, 3.20zł at night, and can be bought from the press store inside the terminal building or from the machine next to the bus stop. The journey takes 30-40mins. Alternatively, you can jump into one of the taxis sitting outside the terminal and expect a 20min ride to the centre. Pick-ups are restricted to three vetted firms (but others are waiting nearby): EcoCar (tel. 12 345 67 89), Taxi Taxi Plus (tel. 601 70 07 53) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196 27). The tariffs are similar, but Partner Taxi seem to have the best rates: about 50zł weekdays, 70zł weekends. For live arrival and departure information call the number given or visit the airport’s ai rport’s excellent website.Qul. Graniczna 190 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 358 14 10, www.airport. wroclaw.pl.

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January - April 2016

9

 Arrival & Transport Transport BY CAR

BY BUS

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.

A stop on the Eurolines international coach network, Wrocław is also a hub for Polski Bus (polskibus.com), with regular connections to Kraków, Prague, Łódź and Warsaw.

 The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr  in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr  outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/ hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention Convention (tsk, tsk t sk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). One of the only major highways in the country, the A4 connects Wrocław with Berlin (via Legnica) and Kraków (via Opole and Katowice). Much of Wrocław’s centre is pedestrianised, and one-way and permit-only streets only help to make driving in the centre an absolute nightmare. Poor planning and limited traffic patterns mean congestion is a major, major problem as well; call a cab and it might take as much as twenty minutes to get to you, though it’s only a few blocks away. As such, we suggest you ditch your vehicle at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it. Parking lots are marked on the map in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines; in the city centre it’s 3zł for the first hour, 3.60zł for the second hour and 4.30zł for the third.  Thereafter you’ll you’ll be forking out 3 zeds an hour. hour. 24HR PARKING Monitored parking for cars and buses near the Racławice Panorama.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90 70. CENTENNIAL HALL PARKING Above and below ground guarded parking for passenger cars and buses in front of Centennial Hall. QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1 (entrance from ul. Kopernika), tel. (+48) 71 346 14 22, www.parkinghalastulecia.pl. 10  Wrocław In Your Pocket

TEMPORARY BUS STATION STATION Set-up to temporarily serve as Wrocław’s bus station until 2017 while the city’s original PKS station gets a muchneeded renovation, this make-shift station is performing its function admirably. Located in the parking lot of an administration building directly behind the platform access tunnel of Wrocław’s train station, only 100 metres from the former bus station, the temporary station is well-marked and travellers should find navigating the inconvenience created by the construction both simple and speedy. Most ticket windows are open 06:00 - 22:00, but an international ticket desk and Polski Bus window are open 24 hours.  Toilets,  Toilets, a cash machine and a few food vendors vendors are also onhand for your gastro and gastral needs, and more services can be found across the street in the train station. A 24hour infoline has also been established: call 703 400 444 from domestic numbers and (71) 373 28 46 internationally. Overall, we’d call the temporary arrangements an improvement over the former station, with the exception of limited waiting room space when it’s it ’s raining. raining.

Most hotels and hostels are within a 15min walk, but to catch local transport to the centre you’ll need to walk back towards the old station and the ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ stop (A-6) from which tram 15 will take you as close to the market square as possible (get off at ‘Rynek’); or walk through the train station for more options from the ‘Dworzec Główny’ stop (B-5). Alternatively, jump in a Partner Taxi (71 196 27) to avoid the fuss.QB-6, ul. Joannitów 13.

CAR RENTAL Internationally trusted service offering a range of vehicles from sedan to mini-vans. Avis also has a desk at the airport but you must arrange in advance to pick up or drop off a car there.QA-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel. (+48) 601 35 48 11, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun open on request. A wide range of cars from the baby Fiat Panda to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website.QB-5, ul. Kościuszki 34 (Pałacyk), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 69, www.joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sun open on request. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

 Arrival & Transport Transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT Wrocław’s public transport system is easy to use and fairly extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines. You’ll You’ll rarely need trams or buses to get around the Old Town, Town, but many affordable hotels and some sights (like Centennial Hall) are located outside the centre. Major hubs for trams and buses b uses include the main train station (B-6), Pl. Dominikański (C-3), and Pl. Jana Pawła II (E-4). Buses and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 00:00, with night buses running less frequently after that.  Tourists  Tourists should have no trouble using the English option on the ticket machines now stationed at most transit stops and on all trams and buses. Note, however, that while ticket machines at transit stops accept coins and cash, those on board trams and buses only take plastic. p lastic. A single fare ticket is 3zł, but be aware that night buses cost 3.20zł. ISIC or other non-Polish student IDs are valid for a significant student discount, but you must carry your ID. Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid until you stamp them  once inside the tram or bus. Sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines to those without valid tickets; being a foreigner will not excuse you, it will only mean you’ll have to pay in cash on the spot. Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the money. ‘W dni robocze’ means Monday through Friday and ‘W dni wolne’ means Saturday and Sunday. For route planning, check out the super helpful website www. wroclaw.jakdojade.pl.

TAXIS LUX TAXI Comfortable and reliable, Lux Taxi prides itself on its competitive rates, clean cars and well-mannered drivers, all of whom speak English or German, and some are even licenced tour guides. 6-8 person taxi vans are available, and you can conveniently pay with by credit card.Qtel. (+48) 71 196 23, www.luxradiotaxi.pl. PARTNER TAXI Operating clean, recognisable cars of the same distinctive make (Volkswagen Passats or Skoda Superbs), from Partner you can request an Englishspeaking driver or carseat for your child, and when you’ve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a credit card to get home. Qtel. (+48) 71 196 27, www. partner-taxi.pl. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

SPECIAL WEEKEND OFFER FOR YOUR CAR RENTAL. ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL PRICES FROM 98 PLN*.

* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED, ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE. CONTACT: tel: +48 22 572 65 65 www.avis.pl

January - April 2016

11

City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

TERRITORY Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania (103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of December 16, 2015 based on €1 = 4.33zł 9.70 zł € 2.35 McDonald's Big Mac 1.69 zł € 0.39 Snickers 23.99 zł € 5.54 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.99 zł € 0.69 8.00 zł € 1.85 0.5ltr beer (bar) 3.69 zł € 0.85 Loaf of white bread 15.00 zł € 3.46 20 Marlboros 4.49 zł € 1.04 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.00 zł € 0.69

Wrocław has an area of 292.82 square kilometres, and is the largest city in Lower Silesia (Dolny Śląsk). LONGEST RIVER  The river Vistula Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’ Poland’s longest longest river at 1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Wrocław sits on the Oder (Odra) River which flows 854km through western PL and forms 187km of the Polish-German border before reaching the Baltic at Szczecin, PL. POPULATION �2014� Poland - 38,478,602 Warsaw - 1,735,442 Kraków - 761,873  Łódź - 706,004 Wrocław - 634,487 Poznań - 545,680 Gdańsk - 461,489 LOCAL TIME Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Wrocław it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

HEALTH HEAL TH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112  to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a land-line or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.  The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency Rooms can be found in the Directory on page 80. If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic (p.81), thus avoiding the hassle of the 12  Wrocław In Your Pocket

notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which you’ll find on page 80.

LAW & ORDER In general Wrocław is safer than most West European cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Perhaps the biggest danger in Wrocław is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be heard coming a mile away and easily avoided. Petty crime does exist, so don’t leave your belongings laying around while in public places (like bars), and be mindful of pickpockets. Robberies on overnight trains are also not unheard of, especially on the routes connecting Wrocław with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or sleeper cabin and keep an eye on your things. Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to complete prats who’ve thought it’s perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience of local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to the drunk tank, where you can expect a strip search, se arch, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants; not to mention a hefty fine. Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops is by riding public transport without a ticket (see page 11), and (silly as it may seem) jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised surpr ised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

City Basics waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this seemingly silly rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being bei ng a foreign visitor. You You are subject to the law too and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot.

MONEY  Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list of kantors in Wrocław that won’t rip you off, see page 80. Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist destination, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was five years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically costs 15-25zł, while admission to most museums usually costs between 5zł and 15zł.

RELIGION According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against pagan invasions and looking to religion for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for solace; during the t he communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches.  The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand.  Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm for religion a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.  Tourists  Tourists should remember while visiting Wrocław’s many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

LANGUAGE SMARTS Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Wroclaw and may even win you friends and admirers. On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.  This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia  (Good luck)! Basic Pronunciation ‘ą’ sounds like li ke ‘on’ on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like li ke ‘en’ en’ as in the th e French ‘bien’ ‘bi en’ ‘ó’ is an open o pen ‘o’ ‘o’ sound like lik e ‘oo’ oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘boot ’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘  j ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ ‘w ’ in ‘win’ ń ‘ ’ like the t he ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the th e ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the th e ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the t he ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me me/Sorr y

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobr y Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh- ch choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... I’m from England. Do you you speak speak Engl English ish?? I don don’t spea speakk Polis olish. h. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where ar are th the to toilet lets? You are beautiful. I love you. Pleas Pleasee take take me me home home.. Call me!

Mam na imię... Jestem z An Anglii Czy mówis mówiszz po angi angiels elsku? ku? Nie Nie mówi mówięę po pols polsku ku.. Nie rozumiem. Dwa piwa proszę. Na zdrowie! Gdzie są są to toalety? Jesteś piękna. Kocham cię. Pros Proszę zę zab zabie ierz rz mnie mnie do domu. Zadz woń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee -myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che (Che moomoo-vee veesh sh po po an-gye an-gyel-s l-skoo koo?) ?) (Nye (Nyehh moomoo-vy vyeh eh po polpol-sk skoo oo.) .) (Nyeh row-zoo-me -ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrov yeh!) (Gdjeh sa sawn to toe-l e-letih) (Yes-tesh pee -enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads- dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

Lotnisko Dworzec PKP Dworzec PKS Jeden bilet do…

(Lot-nees-ko) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) (Yeh- den bee -let doh…)

January - April 2016

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Basic History Wrocław has always been the dominant capital of Silesia, a region whose story begins with the establishment of a stronghold along the Amber Road and Via Regia trading routes on what is today Ostrów Tumski (p.64) by the Slavic Ślężanie tribe in the 8th century. Absorbed into Czech Bohemia, the expanding fortress was first recorded in the 10th century under the name ‘Vratislavia,’ thought to be derived from the name of the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. In 990, however, the Piast duke Mieszko I conquered the region and by 1000AD the city had expanded to 1,000 inhabitants, prompting Polish king Bolesław I to establish Silesia’s first bishopric on the site of today’s Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (p.66). Over the next century, religious and political conflict saw the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia numerous times, before finding some stability under the Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so called ‘Age Age of Fragmentation’ (1138-1320) when Poland was divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in 1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from Ostrów Tumski (which became the city’s religious centre) to the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive walls around it, and laying out the market square (p.55) as it appears to this day. Settlers flocked to the city, and ethnic Germans soon became the most dominant demographic.  The Piast line petere peteredd out in 1335 1335 when when Duke Duke Henryk Henryk VI died died without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance of the merchant class, which controlled the Town Council, lead to strife with the church and lower classes resulting in outright revolt in 1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town Hall and beheaded the mayor. Printing with movable type began in 1475, with many variations of the city’s name appearing, including Wretslav, Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay and Bresslau (p.53). By 1526 - when Bohemian King Louis Jagiellon’s death ended prolonged fighting over Bohemian succession and transferred the city to the Austrian Habsburg dynasty  - the Reformation had reached the Silesian capital and Protestantism had become the dominant religion. During the Thirty Years War  (1618-48), the city fought to maintain its Protestantism, and though occupied, eluded physical destruction, emerging from the conflict as one of the only Silesian cities to remain Protestant under Habsburg rule. However plague and war had taken their toll on the population, cutting it in half. During the Counterreformation, many Catholic orders were encouraged by the emperor to settle in Silesia’s capital, including the Jesuits who founded the Wrocław Jesuit Academy in 1702, which would later grow into today’s Wrocław University (p56). 14  Wrocław In Your Pocket

During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of Prussia laid claim to much of Silesia and Prussian troops entered what was then known as ‘ Breslau’ without a conflict in 1741. Though heavily taxed and having lost the self-rule the city had enjoyed since the Middle Ages, Protestants could now express their faith freely in the new kingdom and Prussian authorities allowed for the establishment of a Jewish community. After the demise of the Holy Roman Empire, Breslau capitulated to Napoleon’s army in 1807; led by King Frederick III of Prussia - who lived in Breslau - the city was the centre of the liberation movement against Napoleonic rule. The tearing down of Breslau’s defensive fortifications by the French allowed the city to begin expanding and state reforms helped it prosper in the 19th century as it grew into a major administrative, ecclesiastical, military, industrial and science centre. Over the course of the century the population increased 8-fold (including the third largest Jewish population in Germany) and Breslau grew into the second largest city in Prussia; when the German Empire was consolidated in 1871, Breslau entered as the third largest city after Berlin and Hamburg. The construction of the Centennial Hall (p.69) in 1913 perhaps best represents the ambition and achievement of this part of the city’s history. By being behind the frontlines of WWI, Breslau avoided damage and was even able to recover quickly from the economic impoverishment that came with the end of the conflict. In 1930 it was chosen to host the ‘Deutsche Kampfspiele’ - a showcase of German G erman athletics after Germany was banned from the Olympic Games. The Nazi Party developed one of its largest support bases in Breslau, which played a large role in voting them to power in 1933. In 1938 state-organised persecution against the city’s minorities, particularly Poles and Jews, began in earnest and those who did not escape were killed or sent to the network of concentration and forced labour camps set up around Breslau, where many would die later. Safely removed from the frontlines of WWII, Breslau became a haven for refugees and its population swelled to close to one million. In August 1944, with the Soviet Army approaching, the city was declared ‘Festung Breslau’ - a closed fortress for tress to be held at all a ll costs. When Nazi Commander Karl Hanke lifted a ban on the evacuation of civilians in January 1945 19 45 it was too late: railway connections had been destroyed or were overcrowded and tens of thousands froze to death in minus 20 degree ice storms. Some 200,000 civilians remained in the city as the Soviet siege began in February; the Siege of Breslau lasted 82 days before capitulation occurred on May 6th, 1945. It was one of the last German cities to fall, outlasting Berlin by four days and the war in Europe officially ended only two days after Breslau’s defeat. 50% of the Old Town was in ruin and the western and southern suburbs were 90% obliterated.  Tens  Tens of thousands thousands had had died defending defending it. it. Under the terms of the Potsdam Conference, Conference, Lower Silesia passed to Poland and its largest city became known as ‘Wrocław.’ Poles began arriving immediately as forced deportations from Eastern Polish lands annexed by the wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Basic History HISTORICAL TIMELINE

 The flood of 1997.

Photo by Piotr Hawałej 

Soviet Union and the forced expulsion of Wrocław’s German population took place simultaneously, simultaneously, leading to a huge influx of Eastern Poles into Wrocław, particularly from Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine); Polish cultural treasures from Lwów   came with them including the Fredo monument on the market square, the Racławice Panorama painting (p.60) and the collection of the Ossolineum library (p.62). A long period of reconstruction followed, followed, characterised equally by Polonisation and deGermanisation; all German monuments and inscriptions were removed and Wrocław’s non-Jewish cemeteries were destroyed. destroyed. At the same time Sovietisation was also beginning: businesses were nationalised, Polish political and religious leaders were imprisoned and following rigged elections the full communist takeover of Poland was complete by 1948. The Communist authorities took full credit for restoring Lower Silesia and boasted of their success rebuilding the city and incorporating it into the Soviet system; this was typified by Wrocław’s hosting of the propaganda parade known as the Recovered Territories Exhibition in 1948. By the late 1950s Wrocław had returned to its former population level and established itself as one of Poland’s main urban, economic, cultural and academic centres despite being hamstrung by the political and economic conditions of the People’s Republic of Poland. In August of 1980, Wrocław’s workers joined the general strike called by Gdańsk’s Solidarity  Trade Union led by Lech Wałęsa. Martial law went into effect from 1981 to 1983, and Wrocław remained a centre of anti-Communist opposition throughout the 80s until Communism crumbled in 1989 and Wałęsa became Poland’s first freely elected president since WWII. In 1990, Wrocław’s first post Communist city council restored the city’s historical coat of arms, symbolising the city’s acceptance of its entire history (even the German bits). In July 1997 the city sustained the worst flooding in post-war Central Europe when the Odra River overflowed its banks leaving one third of the city under water. Poland joined the European Union in 2004 and Wrocław has emerged as one of the country’s leading cities, attracting significant foreign investment. The city was chosen to host matches during the 2012 European Football Championships, is the 2016 ‘ European Capital of Culture’ and will host the World Games in 2017. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating it into Poland 1000: A bishopric is established on Ostrów Tumski Tumski 1163: The city becomes capital of the Duchy of Silesia 1241: Mongols devastate the city, the market square is laid out, Germans become the dominant ethnic group 1335: Silesia is incorporated into the Kingdom of Bohemia 1418:  The city’s guilds revolt, beheading the mayor and six members of City Council 1453: John of Capistrano leads inquisition against Jewish population who are executed or forced to convert to Christianity 1526: The Austrian Habsburg dynasty absorbs Bohemia, including Silesia 1702: Founding of the Jesuit Academy, Academy, today’s Wrocław University 1741: Breslau becomes part of Prussia 1807:  Napoleon captures the city and its medieval defences are destroyed 1871: Unification of the German Empire; Breslau enters as its third most prominent city 1913: The Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) is built 1933: The Nazis comes to power in Germany 1938: Kristallnacht - Jewish synagogues torched, homes looted and burned 1944: Festung Breslau - the city is declared a closed fortress and prepares for Soviet bombardment 1945: Breslau capitulates on May 6th, WWII ends and Lower Silesia becomes part of Poland 1947: Communists consolidate power after rigged elections 1948: Wrocław hosts the Recovered Territories Exhibition 1980: The Solidarity trade union initiates strikes across Poland 1981: The Polish military imposes Martial Law. Law. Solidarity activists are arrested and interned 1983: Martial Law lifted 1989: First free post-war elections in PL 1997: The Odra and Oława rivers overflow flooding a third of downtown Wrocław 1999: Poland joins NATO 2004: Poland joins the EU 2010:  President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk, Russia 2012: Wrocław hosts the Euro 2012 Football Championships 2016: Wrocław is ‘European Capital of Culture’ January - April 2016

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Culture & Events

 ART GALLERIES GALLERIES FOOD ART GALLERYQA-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, lok.1, tel. (+48) 885 51 54 04, www.foodartgallery.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. GALERIA AWANGARDAQB-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 32, tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, www.bwa.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. From March 14 open 11:00 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, Wed free. MIA ART GALLERY Mia is a bright and modern art gallery that recently popped up on Wrocław’s cultural map thanks to the “All  That Art!” Foundation. The exhibitions here are constantly changing, with a new one opening every 2-3 weeks. The gallery also aims to connect art and business by hosting special lectures, training courses, and presentations.QF-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www. miaartgallery.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. POLISH POSTER GALLERY QE-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, www.polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. U

CINEMAS LOWER SILESIAN FILM CENTRE QA-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 64a, tel. (+48) 71 793 79 00, www.dcf.wroclaw.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 10-26zł. 16  Wrocław In Your Pocket

MULTIKINO QA-5, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4 (Arkady Wrocławskie), tel. (+48) 71 758 32 24, www. multikino.pl. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 19-35zł. NOWE HORYZONTY QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. s how. Tickets 13-28zł.

BALLET 09.02 TUESDAY SUKHISHVILI GEORGIAN NATIONAL BALLET  The National Nation al Ballet Balle t of Georgia Georgi a was founded founde d in 1945 as the Georgian State Dance Company, a Soviet-era name that was shed in time. ti me. The group managed to popularise traditional Georgian dance and music at such prestigious prest igious venues as the Met, La Scala, and the Coliseum. And now for a mind-blowing fact for all you Doctor Who fans: it was a performance by Sukhishvili Ballet that inspired  Terry Nation to create Daleks Dalek s - apparently appa rently the longskirted female performers looked mighty robotic?QI-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-180zł. Available at www.eventim. pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00). 10.04 SUNDAY BOLSHOI BALLET BALLE T LIVE: DON QUIXOTE Don Quixote in ballet form? Why not. Originally choreographed by French ballet master Marius Petipa in 1869 (to music composed by Ludwig Minkus), this wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events comic show has been a hit since it premiered in Russia the same year. Now the Bolshoi Theatre is at it again, with fresh choreography by Alexey Fadeechev. Q A-3, Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Event star ts at 16:45. Tickets 60zł. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show.

NATIONAL MUSEUM

CONCERTS 14.01 THURSDA THURS DAYY ETHNO JAZZ FESTIVAL: BALKANOPHONIA  This Serbian Serbi an folk band founded by guitarist guitar ist Nikola Starcevic play Balkan music with Gypsy, Latino, classical, and pop influences; melodies that will sound even better in the interior of Wrocław’s Wrocław’s Stary Klasztor (Old Monastery). QC-3, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 25-40zł. Available at www.ticketpro. pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00). 01.02 MONDAY TRICKY PRESENTS SKILLED MECHANICS English trip hop musician Tricky is returning to Poland with a new album and a new group - both called “Tricky presents Skilled Mechanics”. His new collaborators are DJ Milo of The Wild Bunch and drummer Luke Harris. QC-3, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 85-100zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00). 11.02 THURSDA THURS DAYY ETHNO JAZZ FESTIVAL: CARMEN SOUZA & THEO PASCAL Portuguese - Cabo Verdean singer Carmen Souza, considered to be Cesária Évora’s successor, will be presenting her newest album   Epistola, recorded with bassist Theo Pascal.QC-3, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 45-80zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00). 20.02 SATURDAY ADRIAN BELEW POWER TRIO It’s a bird! It’s a plane! It’s... Adrian Belew! Also accompanied by drummer Eric Slick and bassist Julie Slick in what’s known as the Adrian Belew Power Trio. Formed in 2006, this group headed by American multiinstrumentalist and music producer Belew, who is known for his impressionistic guitar playing p laying and frequent use of animal- and machine-like sounds, released their first studio album, e, in 2009; for the most part, though, they simply tour around the US and Europe. QSala Koncertowa Radia Wrocław, ul. Karkonoska 10 (Krzyki). Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 109-129zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00). facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

NATIONAL MUSEUM �MUZEUM NARODOWE� Paintings, sculptures, engravings, photographs and handicrafts are exhibited in a Dutch Neo-Renaissance building from the 19th century. Both permanent and temporary exhibitions show precious items from the Middle Ages to the present day from Lower Silesia, Poland and Europe.QD-3, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From April open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, children under 7 free, Sat free for permanent exhibitions. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama. 12.11 THURSDAY � 28.02 SUNDAY CHAIRS, STOOLS, ARMCHAIRS. A BRIEF HISTORY OF SEATS Enjoy an exhibit revolving around seats, and their place in the history of furniture. Learning about the evolution of the chair, along with its related counterparts, visitors will have the opportunity to learn and explore the evolvement of armchairs, stools, sofas, chaise lounges etc...Pieces have been taken from the collections of the National Museum, which boasts one of the largest collections of antique furniture in Poland. 14.10 WEDNESDAY � 31.01 SUNDAY S UNDAY MASTERPIECES OF JAPANESE ART IN POLISH COLLECTIONS 250 examples of Edo (1600-1868), Meiji (1868-1912), and Taisho (1912-1926) period art will be on display in Wrocław after similar exhibitions in Kraków and Warsaw. Warsaw. 08.12 TUESDAY � 31.01 SUNDAY PETIT TOUR. SILESIAN VIEWS Let a collection of 18th- and 19th-century painted German/Silesian porcelain take you on a “little tour” around the Lower Silesian region, including Mount Śnieżka and parts par ts of Wrocław. Wrocław.

What’s going on? facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket January - April 2016

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Culture & Events 23.02 TUESDAY ENNIO MORRICONE Have you enjoyed the film scores to The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly , Once Upon A Time in the West , The Mission and Django Unchained ? The man behind them is Italian composer and conductor Ennio Morricone, who is credited with writing music for over 500 films and TV shows. He can also boast an Oscar, several Grammys, two Golden Globes, and sixty years in the business. For this special anniversary concert, the maestro will be conducting a orchestra and choir totaling 200 musicians. QI-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Ticket prices undecided at press time. 24.02 WEDNESDA WEDNES DAYY PASION DE BUENA VISTA Cuban artists Pasion De Buena Vista are returning with their signature brand of peppy Caribbean music that brings a blast of island warmth to Poz. The atmosphere is like a breezy Havana club complete with saucy dancers and Latin rhythms r hythms - - it’s almost more like a vacation to Cuba than just a concert. QI-4, Wrocław Congress Center, ul. Wystawowa 1, www. makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 139199zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00). 27.02 SATURDAY BRITISH ROCK SYMPHONY Naturally, British rock requires no specific endorsement; just mention names like The Beatles, Queen, The Rolling R olling Stones, Pink Floyd, U2, Led Zeppelin, Bee Gees, The Police, Depeche Mode, Eric Clapton, Elton John, Tom Jones, Rod Stewart, David Bowie, George Michael, Adele, or Amy Winehouse, and you’ve got any music fan drooling. The British Rock Symphony show will feature hits by ALL these legends performed by talented vocalists.QSala Koncertowa Radia Wrocław, ul. Karkonoska 10 (Krzyki). Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 99-119zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00). 09.03 WEDNESDA WEDNES DAYY PARIS! THE SHOW SHO W  The Frenchest of the French: this light, late-winter concert will feature thirty songs that absolutely evoke Paris - the greatest hits of Charles Aznavour, Jacques Brel, Edith Piaf, Maurice Chevalier, Lucienne Boyer, Charles Trenet, Josephine Baker, and Yves Montand. QOrbita Hall, ul. Wejherowska 34 (Fabryczna). Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 90-170zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00).

EXHIBITIONS 23.10 FRIDAY � 31.05 TUESDAY INTERACTIVE EXHIBITION � IN THE EARTH  This open, interactive space is part of Patrycja Mastej’s “Self-service Museum” series, with seeks to deliver a multi18  Wrocław In Your Pocket

sensory experience to visitors of all ages - in hopes that it will prepare them to intuitively understand the rest of the Contemporary Museum exhibitions (certainly worth a try if you usually find yourself completely lost when it comes to contemporary art).QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Tue. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Thu free. 03.12 THURSDAY � 31.01 SUNDAY TWO STICKS  The differences in Polish and Japanese approaches to drawing are scrutinised in this outdoor exhibition of works by nine Polish and nine Japanese artists, as par t of the Think  Tank  Tank lab Triennial International Festival of Contemporary Drawing. QC-3, Architecture Museum, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 17.12 THURSDAY � 30.01 SATURDAY ECHO. VALERIA VALERIA FLORESCANO

Mexican artist Valeria Florescano explores her country’s troubled past by creating artistic objects in wood, ceramics, and glass - including beautiful upside-down goblets reminiscent of frilly, traditional female attire.QA-5, Glass & Ceramics Gallery, Pl. Kościuszki 9/10, tel. (+48) 71 784 39 00, www.bwa.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. 09.01 SATURDAY � 23.01 SATURDAY HAŁAS’16 � MEMORIES  This exhibition exhibition showcases showcases sketches sketches and paintings paintings created created by the late Professor Józef Hałas of the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts in the 1960s; the award-winning painter was considered one of the most influential figures in modern wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Polish art.QF-4, Mia Art Gallery, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www.miaartgallery.com. Open 12:00 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. 15.01 FRIDAY � 29.02 MONDAY POLA DWURNIK. A SONG ABOUT A DOCTOR DOC TOR AND OTHER DRAWINGS DR AWINGS Pola Dwurnik, daughter of renowned Polish artist Edward Dwurnik, does drawing and painting in her two workshops in Berlin and Warsaw. This exhibition will showcase sketches based on real and imagined stories. QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2a 2 a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne. pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket ti cket 15zł. Thu free. 05.02 FRIDAY � 03.05 TUESDAY MARLENA KUDLICKA Berlin-based artist Marlena Kudlicka does sculptures kept in a black-and-white, constructivist aesthetic, achieving designs that look as if they are drawn on paper.QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2a 2 a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne. pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket ti cket 15zł. Thu free. 18.03 FRIDAY � 30.05 MONDAY THE SILENCE OF SOUNDS In this exhibition, contemporary artists examine the concept of silence in various contexts: as a potentiallyparadoxical entity that can’t be heard or verified, as means of political oppression, as empty emotional space, and as an expression of melancholy and transience.QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2a 2 a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne. pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket ti cket 15zł. Thu free.

FESTIVALS 06.02 SATURDAY TRANCEFORMATIONS Get ready to be put in a trance at the Centennial Hall. The line-up includes Markus Schulz, Mark Sixma, Mark Sherry, Photographer, Photographer, Matt Bukovski, DJ ALEX, onTune, onTune, DJ Kros, and DJ Smart.QI-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 79zł. Available at www.ticketpro. pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00). 08.04 FRIDAY � 16.04 SATURDAY MUSICA POLONICA NOVA It’s the 30th anniversary of the “New Polish Music” festival!  This year’s line-up includes Cellonet, defunensemble, LUX:NM, Musiques Nouvelles, {oh!} Historical Orchestra, the National Forum of Music Symphonic Orchestra, and the New Music Orchestra.QA-4, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, www.nfm.wroclaw. pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Culture & Events 120 Minutes, his self-named talk show, on the set of Sons of Anarchy,  as author of columns written for  LA Weekly and Rolling Stone Australia, on a plane as a potential

terrorist (remember never to take books about the history of militant Islam onboard), or on the stage as a successful musician and activist. The former Black Flag frontman is currently on another one of his “spoken word” tours, titled  The Charmingly Obstinate Tour Tour..QSala Koncertowa Radia Wrocław, Wrocław, ul. Karkonoska 10 (Krzyki). Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 85-95zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00). 04.02 THURSDAY � 07.02 SUNDAY CARNAVAL CARNAVAL CUBANO As a dreary Polish February rolls around, fiery Cuban rhythms will warm things up for Vratislavians and visitors during this year’s Carnaval Cubano. With dance and music workshops, lectures, and culinary presentations during the day and dance parties lasting long into the night, this is a festival that will get everyone moving. Qwww. carnavalcubano.pl. Tickets 20-150zł, festival pass 150400zł. Available at www.carnavalcubano.pl.

26.04 TUESDAY � 28.04 THURSDAY CLARIMANIA It’s clarinet mania at this aptly-named music festival that seeks to both promote young musicians and host worldrenowned guests. This year’s big star will be Paul Meyer performing with the Meccore String Quartet; other guests include Guy Dangain, Alessandro Carbonare, Philippe Berrod, Justo Sanz, Florent Héau, and Shirley Brill. Qwww. clarimania.pl. Full schedule undecided at press time. ti me. 26.04 TUESDAY � 30.04 SATURDAY JAZZ ON THE ODER Ah, jazz festivals - where would Poland be without them?  They might be mushrooming all over the place, but Jazz on the Oder stands out among them as one of the oldest and most respected, right up there with Warsaw’s Jazz Jamboree and Kraków’s All Saints’ Day Jazz Festival. It was founded back in the sixties, and for a long time provided one of the best shots young musicians had at early fame and recognition. This is the fifty-second edition. See the website for the full programme.Qwww.jazznadodra.pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time.

MISC. EVENTS 24.01 SUNDAY HENRY ROLLINS Like a true modern Renaissance man, Henry Rollins pops up in almost too many places - be it on  Jackass, MTV’s 20  Wrocław In Your Pocket

17.04 SUNDAY � 25.04 MONDAY 48 HOUR FILM PROJECT Strict time constraints sometimes bring out the most creative side of people - no time to second-guess, in any case. Both amateurs and professionals are invited to take part in this whirlwind weekend of filming and submit their creations to the jury for a chance to be screened at the Cannes Festival Short Film Corner.Qwww.48hfppoland.pl. 30.04 SATURDAY WORLD JAZZ DAY  The  The entir entiree city city will will be aliv alivee with with the the soun sounds ds of jazz jazz from from morn morning ing until night; the main venues include the Centennial Hall, the National Music Forum, the Main Square, S quare, and Capitol Theatre.This year’s guest of honor will be Polish jazz vocalist Urszula Dudziak.

BAZAR SMAKOSZY Every Sunday join the fun at the Bazar Smakoszy, to enjoy gourmet foods both locally and regionally sourced; as well as, appearances of deliciousness from within Poland and internationally. Expect everything and anything related to food!QG-6, Browar Mieszczański, ul. Hubska 44. Open 10:00 - 16:00.

SPECIAL EVENTS 10.01 SUNDAY GREAT ORCHESTRA OF CHRISTMAS CHARITY It’s that time of year again - the day when literally every single person you encounter on the street will be sporting a red heart sticker (and those who don’t will be endlessly harassed by unnaturally cheerful people with collection boxes). What are they for? They’re proof proof that you donated to the Christmas Charity to purchase medical equipment for children and seniors in need. A great cause, surely; the day will be wrapped up with a concert and fireworks.QB-3, Pl. Nowy Targ, www.wosp.org.pl. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events SPORT

WROCŁAW OPERA 

15.01 FRIDAY � 31.01 SUNDAY EUROPEAN HANDBALL CHAMPIONSHIP Yes, Poland is hosting the European Handball Championship in 2016, and Wrocław will see group C teams (Spain, Germany, Sweden, and Slovenia) fighting to advance to the next stage. Match days are Jan 16th, 18th, and 20th (preliminaries); Jan 22nd, 24th, 26th, and 27th (main round), and Jan 29th (finals - placement matches 5 to 8).QI-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, pol2016. ehf-euro.com. Ticket prices undecided at press time. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00). © Marek Grotowski 

What’s going on? facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket 06.03 SUNDAY WROCŁAW TEN Simple 10K run around the Millennial Mi llennial Park (Park Tysiąclecia) Tysiąclecia) to warm you up on an early-March day. Make the podium and you’ll be rewarded with a trophy and some pocket change.QPark Tysiąclecia (Fabryczna), www. wroclawska-10.pl. Event starts at 11:00. Registration fee 30-50zł.

10.04 SUNDAY HALKA If you’re planning on visiting the opera during your stay in Poland, we recommend going for something authentically Polish - in this case, Halka, an 1848 opera by composer Stanisław Moniuszko, with a libretto by poet Włodzimierz Wolski. A tale about the tragic love of highlander girl Halka’s love for noble-born Janusz, it depicts scenes of 19th-century Polish highlanders and nobility.QA-4, Wrocław Opera, ul. Świdnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 370 88 80, www.opera.wroclaw.pl. Event starts at 17:00. Tickets 30-110zł. Available at Wrocław Opera box office (Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00).

THEATRE 20.02 SATURDAY NATIONAL NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE IN HD: BEHIND THE BEAUTIFUL FOREVERS Step (metaphorically) into modern-day Mumbai with this National Theatre staging of Behind the Beautiful Forevers , a play by English playwright and screenwriter David Hare, based on the 2012 non-fiction book by Katherine Boo. Directed by Rufus Norris, starring Sartaj Garewal, Tia Palamathanan, Stephanie Street, Hiran Abeysekera, and Vincent Ebrahim. Shown live on the big screen. QA-3, Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Spectacle starts at 18:00. Tickets 40/30zł. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. 25.02 THURSDA THURS DAYY NATIONAL NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE IN HD: AS YOU LIKE IT IT In true 21st-century fashion, Shakespeare will be transmitted live from London in HD quality. This version of the Bard’s romantic comedy comedy in five acts, directed by Polly Findlay, will star Rosalie Craig, Jonathan Dryden Taylor, and Patsy Ferran. Keep in mind that the performance will last an entire four hours! QA-3, Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Spectacle starts at 19:45. Tickets 40/30zł. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Restaurants

 The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocław is ever improving - as is the quality of service - and the city’s respectable number of international restaurants reflects its status as a thriving urban centre. While In Your Pocket  once  once tried to list every eatery in the city centre, the expansion of the market and sheer redundancy of many restaurants now make that pursuit impractical. In our dining section you’ll find reviews of the most noteworthy and high-profile establishments in town, from those well-hidden places you shouldn’t shouldn’t miss, to prime locations you should swerve. While our print guide carries a large selection of restaurants, if you can’t find it here you’ll most certainly find it on our website (wrocław.inyourpocket.com ), where we list dozens more reviews and encourage you to leave your own comments about the places you’ve visited. All IYP  reviews   reviews are completely subjective, unsolicited and updated regularly to ensure accuracy at press time. The figures we quote in brackets represent the least and most expensive main courses on the menu. The hours we list are not necessarily the opening hours, but rather the times between which you can expect the chef to be working. Below are some specific recommendations depending on what you might be looking for. Smacznego!  SPLURGE By common consent JaDka remains Wrocław’s best Polish restaurant, while Le Bistrot Parisien  (French), Brasserie 27, and relative newcomers Food Art Gallery   and Sukiennice 7 (all International) round out the city’s top 5 (in our esteem, anyway). For fine dining in i n an unforgettable location head to the Monopol’s rooftop Restauracja Acquario (International). 22  Wrocław In Your Pocket

CHEAP Wrocław is full of cheap eats. Try BLT & Flatbreads (American), and see our Quick Eats section (p.26) for local highlights like Las, and Patelnia. If it’s Polish you’re after, head to Chatka Przy Jatkach or Konspira, and later on hit any Polish Snacks & Shots bar (p.49) for a late night refuel. LADS Bernard  (International) offers litre steins of Czech beer and plates piled high with hot snacks for sharing, while the costumed gents of Pod Fredra (Polish) will keep you plied with beer and brats until you burst your buttons. Alternatively, Alternatively, head to The Winners Pub (p.49) for precision steaks with a view of the match. COUPLES See our picks under ‘Splurge,’ all of which will impress with their high quality food, go for dinner and a concert at Vertigo (International), or wine and dine on the water in OK Wine Bar (International). FAMILIES Kids get a kick ki ck out of dining on the water in Barka Tumska (International), where they get their own menu and play area. Alternatively, have fun watching them search for the ‘secret room’ in Konspira (Polish). For further options look for the Child-friendly symbol T at the end of each listing. SPECIAL DIET Vegans have it good in Wrocław, just see our Vegetarian section (p.40). Vega  is right on the market square, raw foodies have Machina Organika, and fine gluten-free dining can be found in La Maddalena (Mediterranean). wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY Child-friendly

G

No smoking

6

Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted

B

Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled

 Take away S  Take V

Home delivery

E

Live music

T

X Smoking room available W Wi-fi connection

Get to know the original and chic character of French cuisine

 AMERICAN BLT & FLATBREADS  This upscale American-inspired (free ketchup without asking! large sodas!) sandwich and salad bar deftly balances a somewhat grimy dive-bar location (that’s a good thing) with a sharp, clean, high-ceilinged interior to great effect. The menu would hardly be inventive if not for the fact that a decent sandwich is a rare thing in this country; as such it’s it ’s a revelation. revelation. Choose from a wide range of quickly-served variations on the burger, BLT and taco.  The pizzas are delicious, the salads served on flatbread are creative, the presentation is top notch and the prices are fair and affordable across the board. Open late, so you’ve got time to get a couple cheeky ones in with the crowd stumbling past the window before stopping by, or just do your drinking here.QA-3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48) 71 796 33 44, www.blt.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (19-28zł). GSW MOABURGER Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography all over the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, they’ve certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate just wouldn’t do) piled high with the topping of your choice, and you might even consider splitting one with a friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day. Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though you’ll discover it’s not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries, and drink coming in over 30zł. QA-3, Pl. Solny 10, tel. (+48) 71 330 74 82, www.moaburger.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (11-28zł). T6GSW RODEO GRILL STEAK HOUSE Hardly the kitsch cowboy cuisine you might expect from the name, this steakhouse maintains the high standards of Galeria Italiano - Wrocław’s modern restaurant corridor. Burgers are sequestered to only a brief requisite mention at the end of the placemat menu, which is primarily a range of steaks including T-bone, porterhouse and ribeye, prepared in the open kitchen in the corner. Our roast beef was commendable, but if you want your meat other facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

ul. Nożownicza 1D 071- 341-05-65 [email protected] www.lebistrotparisien.pl

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!  (Enjoy your meal!) śniadania zupa przystawki dania główne dodatki ziemniaki kapusta ser chleb warzywa owoce mięso kurczak wieprzowina wołowina ryba deser ciasto lody napoje kawa piwo

breakfast soup appetisers main dishes side dishes potatoes cabbage cheese bread vegetables fruit meat chicken pork beef  fish dessert cake ice cream drinks coffee beer January - April 2016

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Restaurants than medium rare, make sure you say so (no one asked us). An excellent beer list includes Svyturys Baltas, La Trappe, Bishop’s Finger, Opat and others specifically selected to complement steak. The simple, airy interior is neither too classy nor too casual and has a friendly family atmosphere that keeps its tables as full as its patrons.QA-2, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (14-99zł). 6GSW SOCZEWKA A wide and nuanced assortment of delicious gourmet burgers on the market square, including the guac- and nacho-loaded chipotle burger, a chorizo burger, beet burger, salmon burger and more. Couples can order the mini-burger set for 52zł, or plonk down with your friends for a platter of worldly whiskies. There’s also a wide array of mojitos and beer cocktails, and seating opposite the Town Hall, or in the sharp interior. When we’re going through cheddar cheese withdrawal, this is our sanatorium; in fact, it’s hard to over-praise this place - it’s just that  good.   good. QA-3, ul. Rynek 20/21, tel. (+48) 516 01 51 65, www. soczewka.wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (27-83zł). TU GSW

SZTRASS BURGER  Though  Thou gh elusi elu sively vely located, loca ted, the word is defini def initely tely out on the cleverly-named Sztrass Burger, which stays packed all afternoon with students, hipsters and families alike, eager to get their mouths around Wrocław’s tastiest burgers. The menu is curt and creative; be bold and try a ‘Karolburger’ whose patty is a mix of beef, anchovies, blue cheese and chives, and comes topped with arugula, caramelised pear with ginger, and a pepperlemon sauce. Burgers conveniently come in two sizes for varying appetites, vegetarians have some killers options as well, and don’t miss the sweet potato fries. With a simple interior free of the feeble attempts to be American that other burger places make, this is pure Wrocław; bear in mind, however, that you may have to wait not only for your food, but also a table. QA-3, ul. Psie Budy 7/9, tel. (+48) 503 93 79 87. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. (15-22zł). 6UGS W

FRENCH LE BISTROT PARISIEN One of our local favourites for a long time running, this casual modern bistro openly pays homage to Paris with framed period photography, fine wines and a lunch menu redolent of dining in the French capital. The food - from the steak in Roquefort sauce to the fresh mussels and creme brulee - is of exceptional quality across the board, making the relaxed atmosphere all the more refreshing. A perfect place for convincing your company that you have good taste, Le Bistrot is a popular congregation point for ex-pats as well. The staff are very friendly, flirty and accommodating, and therefore in no way reminiscent of 24  Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants the eating out experiences we’ve had in the real Paris. We’ We’d rather be here.QA-2, ul. Nożownicza 1d, tel. (+48) 71 341 05 65, www.lebistrotparisien.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (2959zł). GSW

GREEK AKROPOLIS Wrocław has a surprisingly sizable Greek population, which explains the number of upscale Greek restaurants right around the Rynek, Akropolis foremost among them. No breezy seaside villa decor here - Akropolis is all dark wood, wine-warm elegance almost compelling you to buy an obligatory bottle of red. The atmosphere is a bit of a throwback and has a certain Cosa Nostra appeal, with welldressed patrons wining and dining their dames in what is still one of the best ethnic restaurants in the region. The menu of seafood and Greek meats from the grill hits the mark - we ordered lamb and were not disappointed.QA-3, Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 343 14 13, www.akropolis. wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (2060zł). GSW

INDIAN MASALA INDIAN RESTAURANT RESTAURANT Well-positioned just off the market square, Masala does traditional Indian food in a more contemporary European style as Indian chefs work in plain view behind two long bars in the offbeat granite grey interior full of comical, conical hanging lamps, pop art elephants and colourful seat cushions. The 22-35zł Express Lunch (served 12:00 - 15:30, Mon-Fri ) fills the seats and represents not only a great bargain, but a great deal of delicious food. The regular menu hits all the marks and portions are larger than most places, earning our earnest recommendation. For those travelling with little ones, note that a babysitter is on hand 12:00 - 18:00 on weekends. QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza 3, tel. (+48) 71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-70zł). TUGSW

INTERNATIONAL AQUARELLE  The flagship restaurant of Wrocław’s Radisson Hotel, and famed for its immaculate breakfast buffet (Mon - Fri 06:30 - 10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 11:00). Elegant and extremely professional, ala carte diners can choose from a diverse menu of dishes ranging from the pricey but proven veal tenderloin, to fish and pasta, and will notice a good selection of cheap, simple kids’ dishes (all priced around 20zł): a rarity in Poland. A seasonal courtyard terrace complete with lawn is also an added bonus for families searching for somewhere to eat.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 10 (Radisson Blu Hotel Wroclaw), tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. Open 06:30 23:00. (24-95zł). TUGW facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Restaurants QUICK EATS For more fast dining options, get away from the fast food franchises and get adventurous by visiting a milk bar (p.40), Polish Snacks & Shots Bar (p.49), or one of the fantastic local institutions listed below.

Enjoy a taste of traditional greek food & Excellent wines

SEAFOOD

LAS/ZUPA Building off the runaway success of their soup kitchen at ul. Szewska 24/26 (B-3), Zupa has opened a second, more proper location to purvey their delicious soups - this one featuring more tables, an expanded (but concise) menu of entrees, and open later. Dubbed ‘Las’ (Forest), the interior offers plenty of nice design touches and a mezzanine, but the space is somewhat poorly organised, and its popularity means it can be  just as packed as the original location. It’s not hard to understand why - the food is cheap and delicious, and there’s a certain camaraderie between the clients and staff that makes you feel like you’re supporting your friends just by being here. Note that the soups (5 veggie, 5 with meat) are served till they run out and after 17:30 they are half price. Recommended.QA-3, ul. Igielna 14, tel. (+48) 733 87 33 07, www.zupa. wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (4-20zł). 6GS W

PATELNIA One of our favourite spots in Wrocław, this tiny food hatch next to Kalambur purveys fine fast food at fabulously affordable prices. For winter they’ve basically changed everything and are now focussed on soup - namely steaming bowls of Asian noodles and veg. Choose between 350 or 800ml(!) of ramen, udon or sen mee noodles with the veggie and meat components of your choice (pork, tofu, dumplings, shrimp), select your spice quotient, grab your chopsticks and go. Screw table service, this is gourmet street food that you’ll love, and it’s open late on weekends.QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29A. Open 11:00 - 17:00. (8-18zł). GS

e most popular greek restauran restaurantt located on Main Square Rynek 16/17 reservation (+48) 71/343 14 13 www.akropolis.wroc.pl 26  Wrocław In Your Pocket

ZZ TOP  The ‘Z’s stand for ‘zupa’ (soup) and ‘zapiekanki’ - a filling Polish fast food specialty that is essentially the bottom half of a baguette with mushrooms, cheese and the additional toppings of your choice. This is definitely the place to try one, as the bread and other ingredients are actually fresh, not frozen (sadly, this is not the norm elsewhere). As for the soups, they change daily and can be ordered in 3 sizes; during our visit spicy chilli, apple-onion, split pea, and bean-bacon were on offer. Wrocław’s fast food culture is steadily improving, and this is one of the places leading the charge.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 25/1A, tel. (+48) 518 29 42 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. NS wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants BARKA TUMSKA Nestled between the proliferation of islands and bridges  just near Ostrów Ostrów Tumski, Tumski, this fantastic fantastic river barge offers offers five unique dining spaces over three levels, including the Captain’s mess and (in spring and summer only) the outstanding upper deck - ideal for taking in the sights and sunshine. The diverse menu of breakfast eats (served all day from 09:00), budget sandwiches and seasonal Mediterranean-inspired cuisine (the menu changes every 3 months or so) makes Barka ideal for brunch, stowing away with a hot date, or bringing the entire family: kids get their own menu and play area and will love exploring the corridors of this unique river diner. QC-1, ul. Wyspa Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 77, www.hoteltumski.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (25-38zł). TUG BERNARD We’ll go along with the crowd and admit that this trendy brewery/restaurant is one of the most alluring locales on the market square. A stylish, airy, three-level interior with a long inviting bar, Bernard is characterised by closely arranged tables which don’t offer any privacy but contribute to the casual atmosphere where the menu is your placemat and it’s perfectly acceptable to just enjoy a drink without eating. To that end, they have their own beer in dark and light, as well as bottled choices including a decent amber and four alcky-free flavours which we wouldn’t know anything about; enjoy their draughts in glasses growing from 0.4 to 2 litres. The food is nothing to overlook with a menu ranging from nachos to Polish classics like golonka and the upper level tables in the window are a great place to take your date, but reserve ahead.QB-3, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54, www.bernard.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:30. (31-89zł). T6UEGSW BRASSERIE 27 Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is owned by the hotel Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A mega modern, glass fronted appearance is complemented by designer hanging lights and dark woods. The reassuringly short menu starts with Italian and spans steak and also fish dishes, staying mostly within the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine. Friendly service and an award winning chef make this one of the better places in the city cit y to eat.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a (Europeum Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.brasserie27.com. Open 07:00 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (30-72zł).UGSW CZARY MARY Inside the new Ibis Styles hotel, the design of this charming restaurant is modern and somewhat minimal, enhanced by high contrast colours, floor to ceiling windows looking onto the train station across the street, and - most of all - delightful  Alice in Wonderland  Wonderland   murals by local artist Szur Szur. The service is classy and the menu is a concise list of beautifully presented entrees that combine unique flavours into creative creations. For such a seemingly casual, almost whimsical, environment, this is surprisingly upscale dining, and a great choice for planning meetings or a meal immediately upon arrival by train.QC-5, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 20, www.czarymary-restauracja.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (24-74zł). TUGSW facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Restaurants DOBRA KARMA  This health-minded health-minded and and socially conscious slow food food eatery eatery turns out popular whole-meal pizzas and delicious dinners that differ each day, depending on the season. Though not strictly vegetarian, caveman diet deniers will have plenty to choose from, and there’s always at least one vegan and gluten-free entree. In accordance with the name, good vibes abound, and you’re likely to find it packed with students, young families and hipsters from the Nadodrze neighbourhood.QA-1, ul. Cybulskiego 17, tel. (+48) 517 65 67 50. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (18-30zł). T6GSW

Perfect location Polish and international inter national cuisine

Aquarelle Restaurant Purkyniego 10, Wrocław Phone: 71 375 00 00 [email protected]

FOOD ART GALLERY Plenty of restaurants use their wall space for ‘promoting young artists,’ but Food Art Gallery’s high-art earnestness ensures that this sophisticated contemporary art gallery is also one of the most exclusive restaurants in town. Though the simple and refined decor aims to keep your attention on the painted canvas above your table, the artists ar tists probably feel upstaged by head chef Mariusz Kozak’s outstanding presentation of mouth-watering dishes like pan-fried monkfish ragout with mussels, leeks, potatoes and chives.  The food is both minimal and imaginative, with overriding local and French influences, and the wine list and service are unimpeachable, earning Food Art Gallery two hats in the first Polish edition of Gault & Millau. Located in a modern apartment complex on the Oder with two seasonal terraces, FAG is the perfect place for impressing and conveying seriousness to potential partners, be they in business or bedroom matters.QA-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, lok.1, tel. (+48) 885 51 54 04, www.foodartgallery.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (3689zł). T6EGW LE CHEF One of the hippest looking locales on ul. Więzienna thanks to the beach chairs all over the pedestrianised street in summer, this small locale is a fashionable tapas and cocktail destination, offering daily lunch specials, finger foods, salads and mixed drink pitchers for the committed.  The chefs certainly know what they’re doing, as do the bar staff who have invented several signature cocktails anyone would be proud of. With few tables inside the slick s lick interior, most of the space is outside in nice weather, and this is the perfect place to people-watch and be seen while also getting off the market square. Note that the opening hours we list are for the kitchen, but the bar at Le Chef stays open later.QB-2, ul. Więzienna 31, tel. (+48) 667 45 85 09. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (10-49zł). T6UGSW

ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Wrocław  Phone: +48 71 733 48 20 28  Wrocław In Your Pocket

LWIA BRAMA One of the few places you’ll actually find anything to eat if you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Lwia Brama offers some great sidewalk seating in the warmer months from which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for the lamplighter to come round and perform that most romantic of Wrocław rituals - the daily lighting of the district’s gaslamps. In winter the historic underground wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants cellars aren’t as cold and sprawling as you might expect, and they also serve as a gallery for local artists (all ( all paintings are for sale). The menu here sticks to Polish and European standards, with some dishes prepared in the sous-vide method.QC-2, ul. Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 880 00 27 42, www.lwiabrama.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (26-69zł). GSW MARINA Seafood and pasta on Wroclaw’s mini-marina, with a small terrace offering views over the canal. They’ve re-styled the interior into more of an upscale bar/lounge and the outdoor garden area is great in the evening for pleasant views and quiet conversation plus a new exclusive VIP room. If the weather is too chilly head inside for a cosy cocktail and pay close attention to their wine list as bottles are available for take away as well.QB-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08 93, www.marina.wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (33-80zł). T6UGSW NEW NADODRZE CAFE RESTO BAR Another hip addition to the ever-improving Nadodrze district, this is a modernly-decorated cafe-resto-bar combo serving AeroPress coffee, wine, draught beer, a bunch of good lunch options (including fish, pasta, burgers, and steak), and even breakfast pancakes and eggs. If you’re feeling whimsical, sit on one of three swings hanging near the front window and wave to random passers-by.QB-1, ul. Drobnera 26a, tel. (+48) 885 02 03 03. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (20-49zł). T6UG

DINING VENUE

SW

OD KOOCHNI Full to the brim during lunchtime, this cosy and friendly hole-in-the-wall restaurant offers ever-changing vegetarian and omnivore meals of the day, plus delicious coffee and cake. The open kitchen lets you sneak a peek at food prep, and the layout (long table + windowside counter seating) compels you to get friendly with fellow diners. If you’re re thirsty, grab a glass and fill it up with water from the conveniently located tap - Od Koochni is taking part in an initiative to popularise the consumption of Wrocław’s safe and clean municipal water (and it’s one of the only Polish food establishments where you don’t have to pay for your H2O).QG-3, ul. Oleśnicka 7A, tel. (+48) 603 88 63 98, www.odkoochni.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (22-29zł). TGS OK WINE BAR Elegant, glitzy, and now located right on the waterfront, OK Wine Bar has used an address change to emphatically establish themselves as one of the city’s most refined destinations for business and romance. The decor is white, bright and modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows letting in lots of natural light by day, and an intoxicating city shimmer after dark. The seasonal menu emphasises local products and includes hors d’oeuvres and a daily three-course lunch from 12:00-16:00 for 36zł (or limit it to two courses for 29zł). facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

BUSINESS MEETING SPOT

SET LUNCH MENU (12:00 - 16:00)

OK WINE BAR  WINE BAR / RESTAURANT / SHOP

Wrocław, ul.Księcia Witolda 1 tel. 71 714 21 26 | www.okwinebar.com

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Restaurants Like the menu, the wine list is surprisingly short but resoundingly robust (with glasses beginning from 10zł), but OK also operates as a shop with over 2000 world vintages you can take home. QB-3, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, tel. (+48) 71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (40-90zł). 6UEGXW NEW POCHLEBNA Be it a lazy Saturday morning or a gentle ease into a busy work day, Pochlebna is a good breakfast option (served until 12:00, weekends 13:00), offering fresh-out-of-theoven baked goods, a selection of homemade spreads, organic eggs, French toast, and tasty coffee in a bright and modern two-level interior. Traditionally-baked breads and pastries are the specialty here, but also indulge in a selection of health-minded soups, salads, and main courses throughout the day, not to mention all the delicious desserts and wine. From the same team behind the excellent Szynkarnia next door, these two venues are teaming up to bring some s ome much needed manners to Pasaż Niepolda.QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 733 03 50 81. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (1833zł). T6UGSW

Can’t find it here? 150+ restaurant reviews online: wroclaw.inyourpocket.com POD PAPUGAMI Long known as a default Wrocław drinker, it shouldn’t be forgotten that ‘the Pod’ - in the plummest of plum locations on the Rynek - serves up some rather good food too. Take advantage of the three-course 28zł lunch menu, served Mon-Fri until 17:00, or wait until evening when the terrific pork steaks will set you up very nicely for a night of cocktails and live music inside this classy tourist-friendly venue full of classic movie memorabilia.QA-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (36-80zł). TEGSW PRZYSTAŃ PRZYSTAŃ �THE HARBOUR� HARBOUR � Decked with tall blonde wood chairs and tables and decorated with old nautical illustrations and knot-tying charts, Przystań nonetheless remains thoroughly modern matching the design of the well-placed new building it occupies. Across the river from the main university building, the real reason to dock in this harbour is the deck seating over the water which offers great views and actually feels like you’re re on a boat. The concise menu offers pastas, risottos and gorgeous salads - including the very brave chicken liver salad with apple, avocado, orange and parmesan.QA-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08 93, www.przystan.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (30-78zł). TUG SW 30  Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants WROCŁAW IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent content we have on Wrocław and the surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Kraków, Gdańsk, Poznań, Katowice  and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small sampling of great Wrocław-related content we didn’t have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!  GROSS�ROSEN

Located 65km from Wrocław, the small village of GrossRosen (today Rogoźnice) was the site of one of the largest concentration camps in the  Third Reich, famous even then for its harsh conditions and high mortality rate.  Today  Today the site is a museum and memorial to the victims; learn more here: iyp.me/grossrosen THE BEER BEE R WAR OF 1380 In the city’s city ’s early Bohemian days, a quibble between the Church and City Council over beer sales blew up into a Chicago gangland-style turf war, with absurd and disastrous results: Ostrów Tumski burned, the mayor was lynched, and beheadings were rife. Learn the bizarre and fascinating story of the Vretslav Beer War: iyp.me/beerwar THE RED BARON

Born in Breslau/Wrocław, Manfred von Richthofen was the top fighter pilot in the aerial dogfights of ‘The Great War.’ A legend in his own time, he was awarded Germany’s greatest military honour after his 16th kill en route to upwards of 75, and his death remains controversial. controversial. Learn more in our feature: iyp.me/redbaron FESTUNG BRESLAU In 1944 Hitler declared Breslau a ‘closed closed military fortress’ to be defended from the advancing Soviet army at all costs. The ensuing siege lasted for 80 days, cost thousands of lives and left the city a smouldering heap of ruins. IYP tells the full story, including where to see traces of wartime Breslau in Wrocław Wrocław today: iyp.me/festungbreslau facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Restaurants RESTAURACJA ACQUARIO  The upscale upscale restaura restaurant nt on the rooftop rooftop terrace terrace of the legendary legendary Hotel Monopol, Acquario offers an enticing, eclectic menu with a special flair for seafood and innovative tasting menus with 3, 5, 7 or 9 dishes to choose from. If you’re anything like us, however, you’ll be just as interested in the world-class wine list. There’s really no better way to relax than with a bottle of red enjoying the fabulous views over Wrocław through rosetinted glasses.QA-4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com. pl. Open 18:00 - 23:00. 3 dishes (120zł), 5 (150zł), 7 (210zł) and 9 (290zł). UGW

Fusion Cuisine • Wine • Coffee Fresh Fr esh Breads, B reads, Cakes & Cookies

Św. Antoniego 15, Wrocław  # Pochlebna

RESTAURACJA EUROPEJSKA  This newly renovated renovated restaurant restaurant on the ground floor of the Hotel Europejski has gone through a similar rebirth. The classic environs are highlighted by the same inviting orange and warm wood tones of the hotel which match the modern Polish and transcontinental European menu perfectly. The mix of classic dishes transcends the usual Hotel Restaurant fare and the presentation and service is truly exceptional. Even if you’re not a guest we suggest stopping in for their comprehensive breakfast buffet (06:30-10:00) - a great way to start any day.QB-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 88 (Europejski Hotel), tel. (+48) 509 35 67 92, www.europejskiwroclaw. pl. Open 06:30 - 21:00. (12-59zł). TUGSW RESTAURACJA PATIO PATIO An absolutely excellent restaurant, well worth visiting whether you’re staying in the upstairs hotel or not; in fact walk-ins would be wise to take advantage of the business lunch (served Mon-Fri, 12:00-16:00), which offers a delicious meal that shows off the skill and craft of the chef and is worth much more than the 28zł you pay. Choose between two dining areas - the bright, open building atrium, or the more elegant burgundy and black dining room with arm chairs and creative glass chandeliers adding a bit of class. Also they now offer gluten free dishes and a kids menu. Recommended.QA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375 04 17, www.restauracjapatio.eu. Open 06:45 - 22:30. (30-100zł). TUGW STARY STARY KLASZTOR �THE OLD OL D MONASTERY�  Though rebuilt after the the war, war, this former former Dominican convent convent dates back to the early 14th century and was previously the site of a very upscale restaurant - a fact which hints at the ‘wow’ factor of its interior. Full of gorgeous architectural details and high arching ceilings, it’s a bit like dining in a cathedral, but don’t be mistaken mis taken - you won’t be cloistered cloiste red off from society here. Aimed at Wrocław’s student population, there’s an eclectic concert schedule with live music three nights a week on average in the gothic cellars (check their FB page for details), and a large year-round beer garden. On top of that, the full menu of European eats is quite good and the beer selection is great. If you’re really pinching pennies, the attached Bistro Nowy Targ is super cheap. Worth investigating for eats, drinks and hijinks.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, www.staryklasztor. com.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. (20-89zł). 6EGSW

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Restaurants SUKIENNICE 7 Certainly one of the most elegant, upscale dining establishments to open in Wrocław in some time, Sukiennice 7 offers an outstanding menu of modern Polish and Mediterranean culinary creations served on slabs of slate or thinly-sliced tree trunks. A certain theatricality exists here as the chefs in their funny hats put on a show in the open kitchen (surrounded by a long bar), and the waitresses scurry about wearing in something akin to folk costumes, while a pianist plays in the evening - during which time you can expect this place to be packed despite the ample size of the modern interior. A great place for large group reservations, keep costs down Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 with their lunch specials.QA-3, ul. Sukiennice 7, tel. (+48) 71 342 74 56, www.sukiennice7.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (26-69zł). TUGBSW VERTIGO JAZZ JA ZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT RESTAURANT How about dinner and a concert? Head to the best jazz venue in the region for a sophisticated evening of rhythmic music, killer cocktails (none of which are called ‘Hot ‘Hot Sax’) and a range of modern fusion-influenced European dishes, like duck breast marinated in fresh thyme and red pepper with blackberry sauce and grilled pear - whoa, Daddio. Concerts are WedSun beginning at 20:00, during which time reservations are recommended.QB-3, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00 01:00. Closed Mon. (22-45zł). UEGW WODNIK RESTAURANT RESTAURANT Within walking distance of the Zoo, the restaurant of the Wodnik Hotel certainly isn’t a bad option in an area where choices are limited (and therefore crowded). In keeping with the nautical theme of the hotel, the emphasis here is on fresh fish, which they prepare in their own smokehouse and enhance with herbs from their own garden. Enjoy tempting dishes like salmon teriyaki or the exotic halibut lasagna with mussels, shrimp, marinara sauce, capers and zucchini in the white-scrubbed interior or sunny seasonal terrace. Get there by taxi, or by walking across the Zwierzyniecka Footbridge from the south side of the Zoo (I-5).QH-5, ul. Na Grobli 28 (Wodnik Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67, www.wodnik-hotel.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (42-68zł). T6GW

ITALIAN CAPRI RISTORANTE PIZZERIA Found inside the Galeria Italia complex the style here is clear and simple, with visual distractions essentially limited to the streetside views and the theatrics of other diners. Choose from an ambitious range of Italian dishes, with the real emphasis placed on spaghetti, while the proprietors’ Italian origins are unmistakable in their influence on the end product. Prices remain pegged at sensible levels, providing prospective diners with all the more reason to visit.QB-2, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71, www.capripizza.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (11-120zł). T6GSW facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Restaurants LA DOLCE VITA  This new intimate intim ate Italian Ital ian restaurant resta urant oozes authentici authe nticity, ty, but you don’t need us to tell you that - your nose knows best. Although it’s official name is La Dolce Vita, locals refer to it as Giovanni’s Place - after the charismatic owner and head chef. He has a lot of specialties, but his thin crust pizza with a wide range of fresh imported toppings will blow you away. They also have a great selection of seafood and pasta dishes, plus a great wine selection, but it’s the pizza that is truly perfecto!QB-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. (+48) 71 319 45 59, www. dolcevita.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (25-60zł). T6GSW

LA SCALA  Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big reputation amongst locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices and uneven service from the bow-tied staff. That’s That’s down to the food no doubt, with arguably the best Italian in town in the exclusive upstairs eatery, while the ground floor trattoria offers guests a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the menu amongst red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural Italy and strings of garlic.QA-3, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372 53 94, www.lascala.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (20-150zł). TXS

JAPANESE

REAL IT I TALIAN FOOD

DAREA SUSHI KOREAN � JAPANESE RESTAURANT RESTAURANT A huge open plan space that does little in i n the way of décor, but plenty for the reputation of Korean food. Overseen by a Korean chap who settled in Poland over a decade ago Darea offers a cracking menu of both Japanese and Korean dishes including tangsuyuk (sweet and sour beef baked in pastry), bulgogi and five grill options where the cooking is left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a confirmed favourite of Wrocław’s expats. Take-away on offer at a 15 percent discount.QB-2, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71 343 53 01, www.darea.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (20-100zł). TVGSW

JEWISH

La Dolce Vita ul. Wita Stwosza 16 tel. 71 319 45 59  / ladolcevitawroclaw ladolcevitawroclaw

SARAH Located near the White Stork Synagogue and Jewish Community Centre, Sarah can make as claim as Wrocław’s Wrocław’s most Jewish restaurant, for whatever that’s worth. The budget menu is not kosher, but features traditional Jewish dishes, and though reports of their quality and that of the service is a little uneven, this is still a great place to spend time in our opinion. With plenty of atmosphere thanks to earthy colours, menorah candlelight and loads of antiques, Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes found in Kraków’s old Jewish district and teams with Mleczarnia to create one of the best seasonal beer gardens in the city. QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 609 99 01 97, www. sarah.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (13-39zł). 6U GS

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Restaurants Wrocław, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45 reservation reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01 [email protected] www.darea.pl

korean - japanese restaurant

THE BEST SUSHI IN THE CITY

STEINHAUS Endeavouring to capture the scholarly, sophisticated spirit of inter-war society, the main feature of Steinhaus’ smart dark wood interior is the large chalkboards, casually scribbled with daily specials, mathematical equations and humorous quips attributed to the restaurant’s longbeaked namesake - Hugo Steinhaus - a well-known Polish-Jewish mathematician, professor and aphorist. In his honour, the owners have created a place where the humanities, science and humour gather at the same table to share some conversation, libations, and outstanding Jewish Galician dishes like lamb shank with porridge and dumplings. Appropriately placed in the District of 4 Denominations, this multi-faceted venue has character to spare.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 11, tel. (+48) 512 93 10 71, www.steinhaus.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (16-58zł).

date destination. An enticing menu of Mediterranean dishes, ranging from light tapas to expertly prepared pastas, makes the art of deciding a challenge and with the big emphasis on presentation you may be tempted to take out your camera when they arrive. Portions are small but delicious, and you’d never guess that 80% of the entrees are gluten-free.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 782 60 90, www.lamaddalena.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (29-79zł). TU

UGSW

VA BENE TRATTORIA Looking to rise above the recent rash of upscale Italian restaurants all across the country, Va Bene has diversified to offer more Mediterranean dishes and a seasonal menu to continue their credible claim as some of the best food in town. The interior is suitably sharp and features the original ceiling, which is worth taking a peek at whether you’re hungry or not. Sneak in for the 23.90zł daily lunch menu, and in summer enjoy people-watching from their market square patio.QB-3, Rynek 51, tel. (+48) 71 343 83 50, www.vabenerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (2678zł). TGSW

MEDITERRANEAN LA MADDALENA With a great location next to the Mleczarnia beer b eer garden, and including seasonal outdoor seating overlooking the White Stork Synagogue, La Maddalena offers upscale dining in Wrocław’s former Jewish, currently hipster district. The creme-coloured, conservatively elegant interior includes homely touches like wicker lampshades and quilted seat covers, and can accommodate large groups as well as couples looking for a more intimate facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

GSW

Leave your own comments & reviews: wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants POLISH FOOD

POLISH NEW BOUTIQUE BRAJT RESTAURANT Located in the Boutique Brajt Hotel, this restaurant is a fittingly classy, white-tablecloth affair serving fancy takes on traditional Polish cuisine in a bright veranda-like interior. Since regional products are used as much as possible, the menu is seasonal. Meals begin with complimentary fresh bread and their own pumpkin pesto before warm bowls of traditional żurek (Polish rye soup) and platters of roast duck or pork chops arrive. QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 18, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 81, www.brajt.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (26-62zł). T6UW

Barszcz

 Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following to the test: Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Stew. Though  Though there’ there’s no standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days. If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default. Gołąbki:  Translating  Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served with a tomato or mushroom sauce. Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman. Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made from everything from turkey to bison. Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere. Placki:  These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true t rue hangover cure. Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek . A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’ in a mug for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl. 36  Wrocław In Your Pocket

CHATKA CHATKA PRZY JA J ATKACH  This  This small, small, popular popular Polish Polish eatery, eatery, across across from the ul. Jatka gallery stalls, achieves the trick of appearing like a rustic village cottage if you don’t notice the ceiling ductwork. Enhancing the illusion is the genuine Bolesławiec folkware on the tables (begging to leap into someone’s handbag), stout wooden tables, timber fittings and a thatched awning over the bar.  The menu - conven convenient iently ly availab available le in Polis Polish, h, English English,, German German and Spanish - features all the Polish classics, but take note that almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average food, it can be hard to score a table in this veteran chow house, which makes a fine place for a fast, local lunch, or late evening meal if you were busy drinking when the dinner bell rang. And they conveniently accept Euros.QA-3, ul. Odrzańska 7, tel. (+48) 530 23 08 11. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (10-30zł). GS DWÓR POLSKI One of the most regal-looking restaurants on the Rynek, Dwór Polski is stuffed full of stuffed falcons, Hussar wings and enough medieval armour and weaponry to start a museum. Those looking for a royal feast however, may be disappointed. Despite the upmarket prices and palatial interiors, the food - mostly game dishes like pheasant, hare, boar and venison carved up with pewter cutlery - doesn’t always live up to expectations. Gamey indeed, i ndeed, and if you’re a vegetarian, get away quickly.QA-3, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 48 96, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (30-65zł). T6GSW GALICJA Formal, elegant, and fitted with portraits of Emperor Franz Joseph glaring down on diners, this restaurant really goes for the Galician theme. The extensive menu of Polish, Jewish, and generally Central European dishes includes such entrées as “Polish Kings’ Duck” and “Delicacy from the Emperor’s Table”, and the slightly nostalgic ambiance will take you way back to a by-gone era. QA-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 66 (Polonia Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 342 21 75, www.restauracjagalicja.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (25-60zł). TGSW JADKA Faultless modern and traditional Polish cuisine with a Lithuanian influence served inside an ornate, imperial backdrop featuring vaulted brick ceilings, timber and starched wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants linen. The concise menu won’t bowl you over, but the class and quality will. Choose from roasted duck with apples, black currant sauce, potato dumplings and fried beetroot, or seize the moment by ordering wild boar. Expect an expansive wine list, professional service and a commitment to excellence. One of the few world class dining options in the city. QA-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64 61, www.jadka.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (27-92zł). 6GSW KARCZMA LWOWSKA  Translating  Translating to ‘Lviv Tavern’ Tavern’ and dedicated not only to that formerly Polish city now lost in the wilds of the Ukraine, but also to that thought-to-be lost Polish ideal of a simple country lifestyle, this nostalgic restaurant’s immaculately decorated interior is decked out in rustic, rural artefacts, antiques, old photos and seems to have a stuffed pheasant on almost every table. Designed for day-long feasting, the menu of traditional Galician specialties looks like an outstanding bargain before you notice that all side dishes are charged separately, however the result is still a decent value and evidence that not everything on the market square is a tourist trap.QA-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343 98 87, www.lwowska.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (3080zł). T6EXW

Polish cuisine Restaurant Terrace & Garden Reservation

Phone +48 71 346 29 81 • www.brajt.pl

KONSPIRA Recreating the 1980s with newspapers, political cartoons, posters, and other communist era imagery, Konspira calls itself a ‘Centre for Historical H istorical Education’illuminating Wrocław’s role in the Solidarity movement. With some English info it could do a better job, but as a restaurant it’s absolutely brilliant with enormous portions of tasty local grub and absurdly cheap prices seemingly straight from the old days.  The killer location includes a huge garden full of gorgeous gorgeous trees(!), a historical exhibit (Polish only, unfortunately) and even an outdoor play area for kids. Make sure you ask to see the ‘hidden room’ - a clever artefact-laden recreation of what a Polish apartment might have looked like in the mid80s. Completely unique, worth checking out and worth the bill twice over.QA-3, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira.org. www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (10-30zł). TGSW PIEROGARNIA STARY MŁYN  Taking  Taking pierogi - a traditional staple s taple of Polish cuisine - and turning them into a tourist-fleecing cash crop, Pierogarnia Stary Młyn specialises in baked dumplings, as opposed to your traditional steamed variety. The menu is a meandering visual mess, but offers a range of savoury, sweet, meat or veg fillings, with your choice of sauces on the side. Choose from overpriced sets of 3, 5 or 9, where adding an additional individual ‘pierog’ costs an absurdly exact 8.96zł (baked) or 5.46zł (steamed). To their credit, the dumplings are very large (start (star t with 3) and tasty, but hardly traditional.  The textbook tex tbook definition of a tourist trap, there t here are dozens of other places in Wrocław where you can taste your first pierogi.QA-3, Rynek 26, tel. (+48) 71 344 14 15, www. pierogarnie.com/wroclaw. Open 11:03 - 22:57. (1432zł). TGSW facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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January - April 2016

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Restaurants

Karczma Lwowska 

Wrocław, Rynek 4  Rezerwacje / Reservations  +48 / 71 34 39 887  [email protected]   www.lwowska.com.pl  

29.99 ZŁ 

GET TO KNOW THE TASTE

OF TRADITIONAL  POLISH CUISINE

KONSPIRA - CAFE REST RESTAURANT AURANT CLUB Pl. Solny 11, Wrocław | konspira.org

38 

Wrocław In Your Pocket

PIWNICA ŚWIDNICKA Seems things have gone downhill a bit since this place was opened over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar in Europe. Named after the Schweidnitz (Świdnica) beer brewed in the basement back in those days, today it serves ser ves primarily as an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth of historic Town Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into ordering rather average overpriced traditional food served by uncaring staff. Nonetheless an Old Town Town landmark, and well worth a look at the very least. QA-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 369 95 10, www.piwnicaswidnicka.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-75zł). G POD FREDRĄ A perfect introduction to traditional Polish cuisine, from a perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval Town Hall, Pod Fredrą ably covers the spectrum of Polish classics and even boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The music, walls, and meaty menu combine to create the appearance of an old Polish village and the staff will dutifully serve you in at least three languages (Polish, German or English). The extensive country fare is complemented by a large and international wine list, and you need not worry about your eyes being too big for your stomach as they’re quite happy to doggy-bag whatever you’re unable to put away of the large portions.QA-3, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13 35, www.podfredra.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł). T6UXS RESTAURACJA RESTAURACJA MONOPOL MO NOPOL Known under communism as the most exclusive restaurant in Wrocław, queues would stretch outside the revolving doors as the staff shooed away anyone not wearing a tie, and menus menu s and tableware frequently disappeared into the pockets of souvenir hoarders banking on the Monopol’s rep as a culinary masterpiece. With With the historic building renovated and under the savvy stewardship of Likus, today that excellence excellence is back in place with master chefs preparing a wide range of traditional Polish dishes, and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting each day. A modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you go. go.QA-4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl.. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:30 - 10:30, 12:00 22:00. (65-75zł). UGW SETKA � BAR POLSKI LUDOWEJ For those who miss the Communist system, and those who simply missed miss ed it altogether, this ‘Polish Folk Bar’ recreates the Soviet-era diner experience in the mould of the currently trendy 24hr Polish snack and shot bar. The loud, time-warp interior is plastered floor to ceiling with fine historical images of PRL life, while the menu is a bit more than the typical romp through cold dishes that complement vodka - the ribs are arguably the best in town, and we also recommend the potato pancakes with goulash. The prices here are precious more than pocket change, and Setka is certainly more popular than we ever remember any other aspect of the communist system being in this country. QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www. setkabar.com. setkabar.com. Open 10:00 - 06:00. (8-12zł). GW wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SPANISH TAVERNA ESPAÑOLA Six types of paella, a good range of tapas and tortillas, fish in abundance, a superb veggie selection and a coveted location (including terrific Rynek-side seating in season) all ensure that this Spanish eatery stays stoked with happy patrons. Inside you will find a vaulted room full of gloomy corners and a scary mannequin dressed like a matador. QA-3, Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 71 344 65 62. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (23-50zł). TGS

THAI NEW PHATHATHAI  This  This typical typical hole-in-t hole-in-the-w he-wall all establis establishme hment nt has perhap perhapss four four tables and an open kitchen, meaning you can peer right into the Thai cooks’ woks as they stir-fry together delicious concoctions. The very fairly-priced menu includes curries, spring rolls, fried rice, and - of course - pad thai. Care to learn some Thai phrases while chowing down? Look no further than the blackboard on the back wall.QB-2, ul. Więzienna 5c, tel. (+48) 534 79 88 63, www.phathathai.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (15-25zł). 6SW

UKRAINIAN HORTYCA With the historical and cultural connection that post-war Wrocław shares with Ukraine, you would expect Ukrainian food to be more prevalent locally, but we’ll happily settle for Hortyca. With a radio playing from behind the bar and a simple menu of traditional dishes, this casual, cheap and tiny restaurant offers a surprisingly authentic experience of Ukrainian dining, enhanced by the folksy decor, flatware, and dress of the plump-faced waitress. If you’re not wellversed in Ukrainian food, it’s basically what you might have surmised: a blend of Polish and Russian cuisine; as such, the short menu is populated with dumplings, blinis and borscht. Our Plov - a rice dish with meat and ‘traditional seasonings’ - was delicious, and we capped it off by toasting PL’s eastern neighbours with a shot of Nemiroff. QB-2, ul. Więzienna 18/1, tel. (+48) 71 318 75 66, www.hortyca. com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (10-20zł). T6GSW KNAJPA KRES ‘Kres’ refers to the former eastern provinces of PL lost after WWII (today in Lithuania, Belarus and Ukraine), though they seem to be using the term more liberally here, with Czech beers and Georgian wine, though the food is decidedly Ukrainian with the house specialty being Chicken Kiev. The menu may pose a challenge for those unfamiliar with obscure Eastern dishes, but the staff will help you figure out that most of the food is fairly familiar.

Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A Wrocław  Tel .: +48 +4 8 71 715 60 60 www.setkabar.com

@InYourPocket facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

 / setkabar

Bar Polski Ludowej January - April 2016

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Restaurants MILK BARS A lot has changed since communism got kneecapped and Poland  joined the EU. While many of the old ways of the old days have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied in today’s tourist-laden Kraków, one relic remains resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar, or bar mleczny. These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom. We We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put the Racławice Panorama on hold, a visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for anyone who has just set foot in the country. As restaurants were nationalised across the country by PL’s communist authorities after WWII, milk bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible, apparently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were often included in a worker’s salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. pi erogi. Times were so desperate under communism that many milk bars chained the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning you’ll notice that most milk bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashen-faced, allbusiness babcias (Polish grannies), and the food is as inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, however, some of these feed museums were saved s aved and continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. JACEK I AGATKA QB-3, Pl. Nowy Targ 27, tel. (+48) 71 344 24 55. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (3-10zł). NG MIŚ Named after the classic Polish comedy film which caricatured milk bars during the communist era.QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza 48, tel. (+48) 71 343 49 63. Open 07:00 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (5-14zł). NG 40  Wrocław In Your Pocket

 Though primarily a cheap restaurant, the atmosphere here is that of an alternative bar/cafe with a young crowd and more hipster hallmarks (unfinished floors, plywood bar, neon sign) than interwar nostalgia. With frequent events and film screenings, Kres wants to be a bit of everything, but it’s surprisingly friendly for a place that exudes cool. QA-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 884 15 10 45. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 21:00. (10-25zł). 6EGSW

 VEGETARIAN  VEGET ARIAN AHIMSA REST RE STAURANT AURANT & CLUB Okay, first things first: these people really do know their spices, and it’s hard to believe that someone can inject this much flavour into lowly tofu. You won’t leave hungry, either; the all-vegan menu offers huge portions of veggie sizzlers, masala dosa, stir-fry vegetables in peanut sauce, thali and sushi of the day, falafel, and veggie burgers. While the delicious smell might just be the deciding factor when choosing to dine here, the warm minimalist ambience entices you to sit a while longer.QE-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 22, www.ahimsa.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (14-25zł). T6G SW

BASZTA Centuries ago (eight of them to be exact), this gloomy brick tower was part of the city’s medieval defensive fortifications, and today it houses one of the most unique alternative hang-outs in town. Offering an outstanding menu of vegan and vegetarian food, choice from outrageously cheap curries, pad thai, tempeh and tofu satay, ramen and other Pan-Asian delights, plus a range of vegan and gluten-free desserts. Baszta also doubles as a gallery for surreal graphics over its three t hree ancient storeys, and achieves a low-key, romantic, bohemian vibe perfect for bean bag conversation or burying your nose in a book. Getting there is an adventure, and you’ll surely make an impression on anyone you navigate through the dark courtyard behind Hala Targowa to Baszta’s door (most easily achieved from ul. Piaskowa). Seek it out.QC-3, ul. Kraińskiego 14, tel. (+48) 603 51 08 35, www.baszta.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, 23:0 0, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (18-22zł). T6GSW MACHINA ORGANIKA Hidden behind an azure facade is a beautifully tiled interior that might as well be a Moroccan courtyard or bathhouse. As the name implies, this locale specializes in all that is healthy, organic, and plant-based, with the everchanging menu proving that vegan cuisine does in fact go beyond seaweed and grass. It seems that this might just be the first place in Wrocław to dabble in the raw food trend - but those who prefer their food cooked won’t leave disappointed, either.QA-3, ul. Ruska 19, tel. (+48) 733 53 72 10. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. (1025zł). T6GSW wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants POWOLI With a name that means ‘slowly’ in Polish, this pleasant breakfast and lunch spot has latched onto the slow lifestyle trend, offering carefully-made, unfussy, healthy food in an interior whose style we’d like to call ‘homey minimalism.’ Perhaps the best thing about this lil’ place is the community atmosphere you feel right through the door, with locals hanging around reading, having a morning cuppa, and/ or discussing medical problems (the hospital across the street is especially conducive to this). Powoli offers twists on popular Polish dishes like pierogi, potato pancakes, crepes, casserole - all made with unorthodox, nutritious ingredients - and we gotta say the food is delicious; though not strictly vegetarian, most of their dishes are meat-free. QB-1, ul. Rydygiera 25/27, tel. (+48) 732 52 34 07. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (7-17zł). T6UGSW

VEGA  This veteran establishment earns honours honours for being the the first in the country to commit to going all vegetarian when it opened way back in 1987. Now, following a needed renovation, Vega has upped its own ‘anti-’ by going 100% vegan. Set over two floors right on the market square, the modern makeover has done wonders for the interior and the food is good as ever, especially the amazing cakes, desserts and vegan ice cream. Enjoy daily specials, meatless cutlets and Eastern-inspired dishes, with plenty for diabetics, those going gluten-free and even raw foodies. Full of flyers and activist info, this place is a veritable counter-culture centre, and probably the cheapest, most alternative place you can eat on the market square of any major city in Poland. Way to go, Wrocław.QB-3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39 34, www.barvega.wroclaw.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (925zł). T6GSW

youtube.com/inyourpocket ZŁE MIĘSO �EVIL �EV IL MEAT� After some rather nomadic beginnings, Evil Meat (bless its tofu heart) has dropped a squat deep in a courtyard off of ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich and looks inclined to stay. Featuring plenty of home-made tattoos, dreadlocks, DIY decor (milk crate light fixtures, mural art) and always a dog or too, this place has remained an underground institution, and is one of the city’s best vegetarian eateries. Despite being a gathering place for the Great Unwashed, enticing smells hit you as soon as you step inside; choose from daily specials, curries, casseroles, veggie cutlets, falafel, pizza, tofu and two things we’ve never seen before in PL - seitan and tempeh(!). Hard to find, and even harder to believe how good it is, look for the green neon sign and go veg out. QA-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 667 94 78 04, www.zlemieso.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. (15-23zł). 6GS facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

BREAKFAST

A cigarette and coffee for some, the key to a successul day for others, below we list the city’s best breakfasts. BARKA TUMSKA One of the best breakfast menus in town, served all day, on a boat - can you beat it? Choose between several full breakfast platters (which include tea or coffee), pancakes, drop scones, eggs your way, bread and cheese platters, porridge, toasted sandwiches and more. Orders are flexible, the options are enormous, and there are also fresh-squeezed juices and healthy cocktails available.QC-1, ul. Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (8-39zł). TUG BREADWAY While the rest of the market square is still sti ll sleeping, this bunch is up baking fresh bread, baguettes, pastries pastr ies and other sweet and savoury treats to start your day. Enjoy a coffee and a croissant, or fresh-squeezed orange juice and a plate of tapas, in i n their outside terrace across from the Town Hall, and watch Wrocław slowly wake up before your eyes.QA-3, Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 532 06 21 89, www.breadway.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. (10-14Zł). GSW CENTRAL CAFE  This American-style bakery and cafe is open early for breakfast, offering pastries, cupcakes, quiche, yoghurt, oatmeal and over a dozen bagel sandwich possibilities; big appetites can also order eggs their way and even pancakes (with maple syrup, fruit, powdered sugar, however you want). QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun S un 09:00 - 16:00. Breakfast served 07:00 - 14:30; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:30. (8-20zł). TUGSW

GISELLE FRENCH BAKERY CAFE One of the best breakfast menus we’ve seen in PL, and it’s served all day. Choose from a range of tasty egg concoctions (like fried eggs on toast with avocado, tomatoes, olives and almonds), quiches, pastries and French specialties like Croque Madame, Monsieur and their own excellent Croque Giselle. The delicious coffee comes in huge mugs and all the bread is i s baked fresh on site daily. Unbeatable.QB-3, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48) 71 725 55 62. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (15-20zł). T6GSW January - April 2016

41

Cafés

AMORINIO  This colourful Italian cafe offers enough sundaes, shakes and other sweet treats to make all the teeth of a shark fall out in ecstasy. Seriously, the sheer variety of desserts available here is awe-inspiring and makes deciding a challenging conundrum (don’t worry, there’s no incorrect choice). The modern design is eclectic, but smart, with exposed bricks, wallpaper disguised as tile mosaic, and a subtle angel theme that gets less so when applied to the cute teenage girls in vintage red dresses working here, while the clientele is largely their peers and grandmothers. A great place to take the kids, if you’ve overdone the sweets there are also a range of savoury soups, quiches, crepes and breakfast until 12:00.QB-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 44, www.amorinio.pl. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Fri 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. TGSW

CENTRAL CAFE Around the corner from Pasaż Niepolda and open early - here’s a good place to start your day. This Americanstyle bakery cafe offers a blackboard menu (in Polish and English) with plenty of familiar breakfast options, including pancakes with maple syrup, bagels and cream cheese, yoghurt with granola and honey, oatmeal loaded with yummy toppings, pastries, cupcakes, quiche and more - all of it made on site we’re told. Of course, there’s coffee and smoothies as well, plus plenty of space to park it and observe the cute clientele enjoying their oatmeal until your eyes are sufficiently wide enough to take your sightseeing back into town. The spacious, high-ceilinged, 42  Wrocław In Your Pocket

classic black-and-white interior also serves as a great place to work or discuss business.QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. www.centralcafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. TUG SW

CHARLOTTE CHLEB I WINO Bucking the city’s craft beer obsession, Charlotte is focussed on fresh baked bread, pastries, French classics like Croque Madame and creme brulee, and gourmet cheese and meat platters - all accompanied by great coffee or wine (no beer!). As such, it’s great for breakfast, whether in the sunny patio or spacious, stylish interior. The hipster quotient of the clients here is off the charts, and only outmatched by the staff, who look like they’re posing for a Paris-themed street fashion shoot while you wait for your order, or even a place to sit. It took Kraków’s Charlotte some time to get their act together, and we assume they’ll get over their growing pains here as well, but by the looks of it, Charlotte is an instant success.QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasaż Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 608 64 69 66, www.bistrocharlotte. com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. T6UGSW COCOFLI  The name is a strain str ained ed acronym acro nym for co existence, co operation, f riendship, riendship, love and identity, but we would have gone with something along the lines of ‘cobobaga’ (co ffee, bo oks, ba r and ga llery) to better get at the many facets of this friendly establishment. C ulture should probably be in there somewhere as well, wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Cafés since this place has become a bit of a meeting place for it. Creating an antiquated intellectual aesthetic thanks to a mish-mash of furnishings including a walllength bookshelf, old telephone switchboard, and unique decorative art with portraits of luminairies from Wrocław’s Jewish past, Cocofli’s selection of comics and children’s books will make you wish you spoke Polish. Here they’re hip to all the alternative coffee brewing techniques and offer rice, soy or almond milk, or enjoy a glass of wine or a local microbrew. QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 756 99 90. Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. GW CZEKOLADZIARNIA WROCŁAW Formerly known as ‘Chocoffee,’ this is still one of the best cafes in Wrocław. Found on the corner of Igielna, the exterior is painted with phrases and variations of the word ‘chocolate’ in a dozen different languages. Inside find a quiet, cosy cafe with fine marble tables, classy wallpaper and comfy couches. A tantalising number of chocolate and coffee concoctions are available, hot or cold, to stay or to go. Not to mention the display full of small sweets, truffles, fudge and other treats. Their chocolate coffee with a scoop of vanilla ice cream? - the only reason we get out of bed some days. A gem.QB-2, ul. Więzienna 31, www.czekoladziarnia-wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 6GS

NEW PANATO CAFÉ  This hippie co-op charges guests for time spent at the cafe, offering in return an open space to make free coffee and sandwiches, help yourself to freshly-baked cake, play board games, take advantage of the wi-fi, read books and magazines, and chat to fellow free spirits. The minimum time is 15 minutes (3.75zł); an entire day will cost you 35zł. QB-1, ul. Jedności Narodowej 68a, tel. (+48) 71 735 16 35, www.panato.org/panato-cafe. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. T6UN SW

VINYL CAFE  This groovy groov y little litt le cafe is an obvious obvi ous labour labo ur of love, and old school audiophiles will literally feel right at home with the living room arrangement around the hi-fi record player. Full of cosy armchairs, crates of vinyl LPs and shelves of books, come in, pick out a 45, curl up with a coffee or beer and a book and you’ve got yourself the perfect afternoon. The sound system is state-ofthe-art, their extensive record collection ranges from Dizzy Gillespie to Devendra Banhart, and bonus points for the policy of making sure a side plays all the way to the end before it gets changed. The coffee comes in big mugs, sweets are on hand, there’s a strong selection of Czech beers, wine and cider, and you can also buy and trade records here. A second home to many. QB-3, ul. Kotlarska 35-36/1a, tel. (+48) 508 26 02 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

COFFEE

ICE CREAM

PANCAKES

TARTS

CAKES

SOUPS

amorinio - ice cream & grand cafe ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, Wrocław

www.amorinio.pl

HOT BEER?  Though the Polish Polish winter winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up, but who wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ – or mulled wine – as you’ll notice by the outdoor stands selling cups of it during the holiday season. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over... and Na zdrowie! 

T 6U GS W facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Nightlife

Wroclaw bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most will stay open until the last customer has crawled out. The lion’s lion’s share are concentrated around the market square, but for more alternative drinking destinations also check out the divey tippler’s strip below the ul. Bogusławskiego  train tressle (F-5), and destinations west of the market square, namely the hip cafe/bars of Pasaż Pokoyhof  (A-3,   (A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4) and ul. Włodkowica (E-4), and the hedonistic courtyards off ul. Ruska, including Pasaż Niepolda (E-4, ul. Ruska 51, p.50). Recently, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich  (A-3) has also emerged a one of the city’s most happening alternative streets. For clubbing, the main hedonist hangouts are ul. Św. Św. Mikołaja M ikołaja (A-3) and the famous Pasaż Niepolda (E-4, p.50), where the parties last until morning even if you don’t. don’t. Expect cover charges of anywhere from 5-20zł at the door on weekends, and don’t don’t expect to find toilet paper in any of the bathrooms after 22:00. Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so visit our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com   (of which there’s also a mobile version) - to read reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Read on for some recommendations to start you on the path to drunken delinquency. Na zdrowie, and happy hangover. COCKTAILS Shake it up in local stalwarts Papa Bar and Pod Papugami, or get fresh and fruity in newcomer Coctail Bar Max. Domówka  and PRIV  (Clubs) are currently the most exclusive catwalks for celebrity spotting and being seen. 44 

Wrocław In Your Pocket

CRAFT BEERS Discover the depths of Polish beer culture in Kontynuacja, Marynka, Szynkarnia  and Pod Latarniami, or try newcomer Browar Złoty Pies (Breweries, p.48) where they brew their own. STUDENTS As beer prices go up, cheap shot bars (p.49) are appearing all over, sustained by Wrocław’s student population. Wicar’s has a definite frat party appeal while Szajba and Manana (Clubs) are the best locales for spontaneous booty-shaking. LADS Winners is the civilised choice for football, food and beer, but you can do that at home. Instead, make friends over Pro Evo in Padbar, challenge the locals to foosball in Wicar’s, and don’t miss trying one of the Polish Snacks & Shots (p.49) spots in town like Setka. COUPLES Show off by starting the night with a romantic dinner in OK Wine Bar (p.29), or a fancy drink in Papa Bar. Enjoy a classy jazz concert at Vertigo (Live Music, p.46), continue the conversation by candlelight in Mleczarnia, or take a turn on the dance-floor in Manana (Clubs). ALTERNATIVE Regular presentations on how to be a Polish hipster are given in Szklarnia and KRVN; Nietota (Clubs) has a darker side, Neon Side illuminates the city’s edgy urbanity, and Art Cafe Kalambur   (Clubs) is the heights of opiatic art nouveau decadence. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted

G

No smoking

U Facilities for the disabled

6

Animal friendly

X Smoking room available

E

Live music

W Wi-fi connection

BARS & PUBS NEW BLACKBOARD PUB Located in the trend-setting Ibis Styles Hotel across from Dwórzec Główny, the location may not be ideal for a pub crawl, but if you’ve got some time to kill between connections, or if you’re craving craving a pint straight off the train, then this surprisingly hip hotel bar is definitely worth a visit. It’s got a touch of industrial chic, black-and-white decor, neon and mood lighting, walls covered in blackboard paint and chalk renderings, live sports on the TV, and a laid-back ambience - what more do you need? QC-5, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 21. Open 17:00 - 02:00. UGW

COCTAIL COCTAIL BAR MAX & DOM WHISKY  The search for the letter ‘k’ continu continues es at this upscale, upscale, roomy and inviting locale featuring tall windows, exposed brick, and a well-stocked 360 degree bar at the centre. Busy and chatty in the evenings, Coctail Bar Max nevertheless draws a calmer crowd, making this the place for getting one or two elegant drinks without stepping on other patrons’ feet or having to yell over dubstep. For a fancier experience, allow the white-smocked waiter to gingerly guide you into a glasspartitioned room of cigars and rare whiskeys, some dating back to the 1960s.QA-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 28-31, tel. (+48) 691 96 00 00, www.barmax.pl. Open 11:00 - 05:00. UXW

ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Wrocław Phone: +48 71 733 48 21

Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky ul. Rzeznicza 28-31 50-130 Wroclaw tel. + 48 691 960 000 [email protected] www.Barmax.pl www.domwhisky.pl

KONTYNUACJA Wrocław might be the best beer city in PL, and this is its best craft beer house. With 25 beers from PL and abroad on draught (including two hand-pumps), the ales are inscrutable, though the atmosphere isn’t always there. Here you won’t find the loud din of a beer hall, but low music and a discerning, overly civilised crowd of connoisseurs. What exactly it’s missing, we’re not sure, but the modern, minimal decor with a few street art touches is apparently neither alternative nor cosy enough to create the buzz you’d expect from the bar with the best brews in town. Still, if you want to find praise for Polish beer - this is the place.QA-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 17, tel. (+48) 792 40 00 84. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 03:00. GW

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Nightlife LIVE MUSIC All venues that can claim to offer live music are marked with a saxophone icon E, but in addition to those below, Stary Klasztor (p.32), Pod Papugami (p.48) and Nietota (p.51) are particularly worthy of investigation.  To  To find out what what specific concerts concerts are happening when when you’re in town, check our Events section (p.16). ETER CLUB If you’re sick of brick cellars, head to this thoroughly modern marvel for a lesson in grand dance-club design. One of the city’s top venues, Eter looks the part with dazzling professional lighting and an incredible sound system - put to good use while hosting some of Wrocław’s best concerts and events. Spread over two underground levels with four(!) bars, chill out on the splendid upstairs mezzanine overlooking the stage/dance-floor sofas before heading down into dance-floor carnage with an unpretentious crowd determined to take full advantage of the night. Check their website to see what’s on. QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19, tel. (+48) 796 62 29 11, www.eterclub. pl. Open hours depend on the event. For concerts open 20:00 - 03:00, for clubbing open 21:00 - 05:00. UEG

RAGTIME  This veteran venue has grown some grey hairs, but remains an engaging endeavour that refuses to follow fashions and retains a charismatic personality of its own. Vermilion walls are home to all manner of visual diversions, from framed pics of jazz gods to musical instruments. A wrought iron mezzanine allows the opportunity to admire all the clutter and the Wed - Fri  jazz concerts are free to enter and not to be missed. QA-3, Pl. Solny 17, tel. (+48) 71 343 37 01, www. ragtimecafe.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. EXW VERTIGO JAZZ JA ZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT RESTAURANT  This esteemed music entertainment outfit boasts its own record label, and finally its own venue for hosting almost nightly jazz concerts. Modern in its slick design and acoustic precision, but classic in its intimate atmosphere and Cotton Club appeal, Vertigo is the best jazz club in the region and a nirvana not only for earnest jazz enthusiasts, but also the players, who are complimented with a high-profile ‘Artists’ Lounge’ at stage left. The cocktail prowess of the bar staff is almost over-the-top, and there’s a nice menu of creative European eats to accompany the live music Wed-Sun starting at 20:00; most concerts are free, and while reservations aren’t necessary, they would be wise.QB-3, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00; closed Mon. UEGW 46  Wrocław In Your Pocket

KRVN Shorthand for ‘Karavan’ (obviously), this odd and amiable bar/bistro combines a smart post-modern aesthetic with a street art edge and deliberate traces of urban decay: think steel doors and subtle neon, plus strange Sharpie scribbles on unfinished walls. In the evenings it’s a total hipster hangout full of fanny packs, plug earrings, ironic moustaches and fast electronic music. The drinks menu is unique, inventive and nothing short of excellent, with a long list of original cocktails and hot concoctions for weathering the long Polish winter. By day natural light filters through the street-side windows and KRVN is more of a bistro with a great menu of hot sandwiches, Polish pancakes, burgers, pasta and salads (served until 22:00, FriSat 23:00). An ideal place to pretend you’re not a tourist, this is essentially the perfect Wrocław hangout.QE-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 40/1A, tel. (+48) 575 79 17 57, 57 , www.krvn. pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GSW MARYNKA PIWO I APERITIVO Marynka essentially takes the idea and atmosphere of a wine and tapas bar and applies it to choice ales. Here you can select from upwards of 75 beers from all over the world, including 8 regularly changing taps, while snacking on tasty appetisers (which come free with your beer between 16:00 and 21:00!), and they’ve they ’ve now added delicious woodfired pizza to their bag of tricks thanks to a cooperation with Happy Little Food Truck Truck parked out back. Hidden in an obscure courtyard behind Graciarnia near the Royal Palace, this is a refined place for beer lovers to relax without the snobbery you might associate with connoisseur culture. Worth seeking out. QA-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39, tel. (+48) 504 31 49 01. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. GW MLECZARNIA We’ve been mainstays at this dusky, back-street, candlelit pub since our first days in town. Hidden in an enchanting courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue and a glorious oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic, while the sepia interior of wobbly furnishings and framed sketches captures an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better than anywhere else in Wroc’s former Jewish district. A bohemian mix of local academics, hipsters and hostelers drink through the debate topics of the day while an excellent mix of ethnic and indie music (always played at just the right level) drifts through t hrough the air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the kind of place we could live in, and some regulars appear to actually do so. With a hostel upstairs, you can too.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 788 24 48, www.mle.pl. Open 08:00 - 04:00. XW NEON SIDE CLUB & GALLERY  This passageway between ul. Ruska and ul. Antoniego Antoniego is now not only a living gallery for street art, but also salvaged neon art from the Soviet era. Not only is the interior of this alternative venue densely laden with neons (in various states of condition and working order), but the facade is also hung with historic neon signs, thus making the entrance rather hard to miss. Part bar/club and part wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife museum/gallery, inside Polish speakers will find some info about the history of each sign alongside where it shines down on the retro furnishings of this hipster clubhouse with choice beers, weekend DJs, and a general counter-culture vibe. Absolutely worth seeing, even if just for a look around in the evening.QE-4, ul. Ruska 46C, tel. (+48) 604 26 12 20. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. UGW NIEBO CAFE As long as you keep drinking, Niebo will stay open, and this has become an after-hours cult classic packed with students obliterating scholarships well after dawn; when one drops off there’s three more to replace them. A long, dog-eared, scarlet and blue bar full of random art photos and oddities, Niebo is the start and finish point for many neighbourhood pub crawls, so you’ll have to step over a few casualties on your way to the dance-floor, pumping your fist to the classic rock and 90s anthems. QE-4, ul. Ruska 51b (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71 342 98 67. Open 13:00 - 05:00, Mon 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 08:00. 6UXW PADBAR With a beer in one hand and a joystick in the other, Padbar is a concept club for gamers (not gay men, sorry for the confusion). The investment here obviously went into equipment, not decor, which consists of black sofas, bean bags, plywood tables...and dozens of flatscreen  TVs where you can play seemingly every video game, for every gaming system, ever created. But Padbar isn’t limited to video games - there are plenty of board games as well, plus the obligatory Warhammer and Magic: The Gathering crowds. With stencil art of Rambo and Einstein holding game consoles, and a cocktail menu with names like ‘Princess Zelda’ and ‘Crash Bandicoot’, this place is impressively thought out, wildly popular and loud with laughter. Perfect for making new friends, getting nostalgic and having a blast, few places are as fun and friendly as Padbar. Game on.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 1, tel. (+48) 883 75 17 14, www.padbar.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. UGW PAPA BAR One of Wrocław’s most stylish and chic bars, how much you favour Papa Bar really depends how much you fancy yourself a fit with the jet set. Filled with foreign and local hotshots in collars and cufflinks beside blonde beauties and botox cougars drinking cocktails and single malt whiskeys around an endless rectangular bar, grand colonnades support the ceiling while red carpet shots of smiling Hollywood hunks and starlets dress the walls.  The space is enormous and has been entirely given over to smokers, with the exception of a small corner. Though the tedious house music is hardly original, Papa Bar still provides many of the comforts other places lack - including competent mixologists, sports on the flatscreen and a menu of great eats served late. Recommended. QA-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71 341 04 85, www.papabar. pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, 02:00 , Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. UXW facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Nightlife BREWERIES Wrocław has a long and illustrious history of brewing beer thanks to its past allegiances and current proximity to both Germany and Czech Republic. While craft beers are all the rage at the moment, the venues below are taking it to the next level by actually brewing their own. BIERHALLE In a battle with Spiż for best local microbrewery, do your drinking under the parasols of their prime Rynek real estate during the sunny season, retreating into the restaurant during those six months of the year when willful impairment is forced indoors. Continuing Wrocław’s long brewing tradition, this outfit does it all onsite with wheat, pilsner and dark beers among those on draught. Prices are aimed at German tourists, and lager lovers that they are you’ll find plenty of them happy to pay for the privilege of a good ale. If it’s game day, you’ll find Bierhalle’s plethora of teles to be one of your best bets for catching the match.QA-3, Rynek Ratusz 24-27, tel. (+48) 601 67 74 52, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. GW NEW BROWAR ZŁOTY PIES �GOLDEN DOG BREWERY� A place where beer keeps no secrets from beer drinkers - the “live brewing” going on in this establishment means that all stages of the process take place right in front of visitors’ eyes, and you might even be allowed to chuck in some malt or hops. Situated in a beautiful main square tenement house with a golden dog emblem (giving rise to the name of course), Złoty Pies offers five types of beer - lager, IPA, wheat, amber and porter - and a selection of modern Polish dishes which draw upon local products and change with the seasons. Stop by during lunch (Mon-Sat 11:00 - 16:00) for soup, an entree and a beer for only 29zł. QB-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 570 22 12 12, www.zlotypies.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. UXW SPIŻ BREWERY After losing some ground in the Breslau best beer debate to Bierhalle, Spiż seems to have picked up the slack by unveiling a few new brews which combined with their caramel and honey beers, should be enough to convince your ladyfriend to give it a go. With seven unpasteurised, unfiltered brews in total, you should find something to your taste, though beer enthusiasts are a bit split about the quality. quality. Despite service ser vice that is largely lacking, a free table in the summer beer garden is still a rarity, while an Oktoberfest atmosphere prevails in the dark cellars of the Town Hall. Spiż is still considered a must-visit by locals and remains perhaps Wrocław’s most recognisable bar.QA-3, Rynek-Ratusz 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 72 25, www.spiz.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. XW 48 

Wrocław In Your Pocket

POD LATARNIAMI A warm, elegant, yet perfectly casual pub with a retro turn-of-the-century interior full of mirrors, marble and fine woodwork, including a long bar fitted with lanterns. In addition to great atmosphere, there’s are 8 craft beers on draught, rows of bottled ales and whiskies, and a mercifully short menu of local specialties and grilled meats (including a very good breaded pork chop), which are not only tasty, but represent a great value. One of the few places in Wrocław to earn mass approval from high-collared businessmen, British tourists, wind-creased geasers and first-dating students. We like it too.QA-3, ul. Ruska 3/4, tel. (+48) 71 344 03 24. Open 10:30 - 02:00, Thu 10:30 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 05:00. UGW POD PAPUGAMI Packed with wasp-waisted blondes Pod Papugami still rates as one of the top venues in town for terrific food, smart drinks and live music. Squeeze among the local stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid film reels, projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Champagne-voiced chanteuses take the stage most nights, and the performances are usually very good indeed.QA-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. EGW

SZAJBA Hidden one courtyard east of Mleczarnia, this large, versatile high-ceilinged club/gallery caters to Wrocław’s large demographic of hipsters who create happenings. Old O ld 50s and 60s radios with glowing gummy bear lamps atop them line the walls above old framed advertisements and prints by local artists. The furnishings, as you can guess, are more of the same attic antiques you find in many such places, with candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty of room for large groups. Seasonal outdoor seating, an eclectic alternative playlist, extensive exotic drink list and free wifi are just a few more of the reasons Szajba is a great place to pass time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying themselves, as our coffee came with a near-complete tictac-toe board drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the winning stroke. A great find. QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasaż Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 660 40 42 70, www.szajba. wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UGW

SZKLARNIA Ofiar Oświęcimskich Street has exploded with hip new venues to become one of Wrocław’s most exciting streets and this may be its most popular hangout at the moment. Bearing all the hallmarks of hipster paradise - pricey craft beers, cool cocktails, groovy music, DIY design and good eats - they’ve basically taken all the best aspects of their neighbours and combined them here. There’s even a club in the basement on weekends. Dubbed ‘Greenhouse’ (as Szklarnia translates in English) thanks to a glass ceiling, this large space features a long wrap-around bar, lots wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife of natural light, and plenty of plywood and pallets (naturally). A delight by day, things get crowded in the evening when it basically turns into a urban lifestyle blog. QA-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 575 24 24 56. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. GW SZYNKARNIA Another in a recent flurry of craft beer houses in Wrocław, Szynkarnia is a hog of a different colour, however. Doing unique double-duty as an ale house and deli counter stocked with fine meats and cheeses, this place is more of a low-key neighbourhood hangout than party headquarters, despite a location bookending Pasaż Niepolda. In addition to the 14 craft brews on draught, try the tasty ‘podpłomyki’ - a healthy wrap made on their own bread and filled with the local deli fixings of your choice - delicious! The whitewashed timber-fitted space features a cosy antresol and basement as well, and the breakfast and lunch specials warrant return visits to this completely original and relaxed establishment at all times of day. QE-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 733 80 81 34, www.szynkarnia.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. UGW THE WINNERS PUB As far as sports bars go, this is the best in Wrocław. A nice balance is struck between the intimate, modern interior of creme-coloured booths, all with a good view of one of the 10 flatscreens (they also have a projector), and the antiquated black and white sports photo wallpaper and outdated athletic equipment on the walls. There’s also a simple, sparse and not at all cheap menu of modern American food, with the specialty being steaks fried on a hot volcanic stone. Very professional service comes from young ladies who are clearly runway models on their off  days, and the pub atmosphere is only let down by the lack of good beer. Nonetheless, with sidewalk seating as well as a share of Wrocław’s best beer garden in front of the White Stork Synagogue when the weather is cooperative, we’d say Winners has got Guinness Pub beaten handily. QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 519 54 18 94, www. thewinnerspub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. GW WICAR’S PUB Located underground in the catacombs of Partisan Hill, this is one of the most unique venues in Wrocław, Wrocław, not only for its singular location, but the plethora of pursuits they offer in addition to pizza and 70 types of beer (as if you need more). A wonderland for lads (and ladies too), Wicar’s features 6 flatscreen TVs streaming matches, 7 free foosball tables and 2 free electronic dart dar t boards. On top of that they host concerts and karaoke nights, have an outdoor grill in warm weather, and there was a large group poker game going on when we dropped in. Foosball tournaments take place on Tuesdays, as do workshops for honing your skills. Get your game on. QB-4, ul. Piotra Skargi 18A, tel. (+48) 887 56 66 65, www.wicars-pub.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Thu 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. GW facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

Photo by Karol Grzenia

AMBASADA Yet another glorious Zakąski Przekąski, and not even 10 metres from Nagi Kamerdyner. In this case, everything from beer to whiskey, coffee to Burn energy drink, tartar to herring - costs a slim 5zł coin, making Ambasada so packed at night that you might not even get a glimpse of the slightly upscale interior covered in old travel agency adverts and transatlantic posters. High ceilings, soft lighting and a long bar, this embassy draws a slightly older crowd and the high volume makes new acquaintances that much more attainable.QA-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 337 38 18. Open 24hrs. UGW NAGI KAMERDYNER An absolutely fantastic boozer that also operates as an esteemed photography gallery (galeriajadalnia.pl), ‘The Naked Butler’ captures the outlaw elegance of Prohibition-era America with music from the 1920s and ‘30s and interrogation lamps. With above-average hot and cold Polish dishes for 8zł and an all-too-convenient all-too- convenient location in the courtyard underneath the legendary Manana Cafe, you never know when we might be stool pigeoning at the bar with our brim pulled low over a plate of bigos and a beer, or mingling with high society at one of their art openings. QA-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342 00 11, www.nagikamerdyner. pl. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Thu 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UG SETKA � BAR POLSKI LUDOWEJ As unlikely as the combo may sound, Setka (the Polish name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) is where Las Vegas meets the former People’s Republic of Poland in a brash, loud, and fun drinking den that’s bursting at the seams on most nights. With a slot-machine-esque backlit menu board featuring the likes of herring, lard, and goulash displayed smack dab in the middle, a garishly multicoloured ceiling, and a slightly irritated female voice reading the order numbers over the mic, this is a blast from the past dressed to please presentday bar-hoppers.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www.setkabar.com. Open 10:00 - 06:00. GW January - April 2016

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Nightlife PASAŻ NIEPOLDA 

CLUBS ART CAFE KALAMBUR An artsy bohemian headquarters by day, this tiny Seccessionist space becomes one of the sloppiest, most unhinged student clubs in Wrocław on weekends, with the party going on until dawn o’clock. As drunken revellers bump into the DJ booth, the masses writhe to skipping recordings of everything from classic MJ to the Doors to Goran Bregovic. So chock-a-block with shimmying students and hipsters that dancers obstruct the door, so start testing your moves on the approach ‘cause you’re going right into the frying pan, friend. QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 68, www. kalambur.org. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 04:00. UNXW

 This raucous courtyard (or ‘passageway’) five minutes from the market square is one of Wrocław’s most popular and legendary clubbing destinations. Packed with over a dozen bars and clubs inside a space of less then 50 metres, you almost expect it to be fair game to take your drink with you as you go door to door exploring each one (it’s not). While the venues here change often, some mainstays like Niebo  and Bezsenność have been highlights of the city’ city ’s drinking scene for what seems like forever. Once a somewhat offbeat alternative to drinking on the market square, in recent years this historic passageway has been renovated and gone full mainstream with banners that welcome tourists and young girls who seem to have forgotten to finish dressing handing out leaflets. An obvious effort to keep some order and crack down on outside drinks is also now being made; to this end gates have been installed at both ends, where you can expect guards to tell you to lose that vodka bottle, and even frisk your purse for whatever else you’ve got squirrelled away. As a result, the neighbouring space in front of the bank at the corner of ul. Kazimierza Kazimier za Wielkiego and ul. Ruska (A-3) has become a total free-for-all of preentry binge drinking. If you favour a quiet drink in sophisticated surroundings, you’ll want to stay as far away from this hedonist haven as possible; Pasaż Niepolda parties part ies all night, sustaining an unprecedented level of energy, noise and sloppiness all al l the way through to morning. It’s a spectacle that has to be witnessed, though may not be to everyone’s taste, particularly since the quality of bars here has declined of late. Officially addressed at ul. Ruska 51  (E-4), Pasaż Niepolda is  just west of the centre in a courtyard cour tyard connecting connec ting Ruska and Św. Antoniego Streets. To find it make your first left off Ruska after crossing ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (A-3). 50  Wrocław In Your Pocket

BEZSENNOŚĆ �INSOMNIA� Pasaż Niepolda’s longest tenured club and arguably still its best. Wrocław’s sophisticated singles gather amid a decadent background of comfy sofas, stark concrete walls and thrift-store furnishings that balance the romanticism of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of an underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance parties, while work days are more low-key with everything from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers, as well as the common occurrence of some of the city’s top concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go out of their way to try and play in. A must visit. QE-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 570 66 95 70, www. bezsennoscklub.com. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. UEX DOMÓWKA If you come on a popular night Domówka is not so much a club, but an experience. Once you’ve gotten past the facecontrol, entrance, entrance, security and coat-check you’ll stroll into a packed ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means there’s eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices. The tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic at the same time, and the coordinated light displays that continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a Friday or Saturday night. Bring your camera, your weekend wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domówka will deliver you to dance party paradise.QA-3, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508 15 69 12, www.klubdomowka.pl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Thu 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Tue, Sun. XW MAÑANA CAFE Reckoned by many to be the best night out in Wrocław, Mañana is certainly reliable for a raucous weeknight raveup and well-loved by all those who live for long nights. Don’t let the lack of a proper dancefloor prevent you from doing your Travolta - spontaneous outbreaks of disco fever are rife and encouraged. The scruffy furnishings, red lighting and cheeky photos on the wall exemplify the wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife balance between sexiness and silliness embodied by the randy retro-chic clientele, and Mañana’s down-to-earth attitude and funky playlist of favourites from the last 50 years make it one of the most appealing places in the city to squander your brain cells. With With the addition of a VIP room and the opening of the large summer terrace there’s now even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocław’s lookers.QE-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 343 43 70, www.mananacafe.pl. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. G NIETOTA One of Wrocław’s most original venues, Nietota is a place for artsy discourse, self-destructive decadence and debauchery. An awful lot of time has gone into the decor with almost every surface covered in highly-illustrative original artwork that gives the space a grotesque, creepycool nacht-cabaret atmosphere where concerts and theatre troops take the stage between weekend DJ nights. Completely unique in style and atmosphere, the drinks list is also exceptional with Lindeman’s cherry lambic to candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Czech Litovel on draught. Well worth seeking out.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 664 00 76 10. Open 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. EGW

youtube.com/inyourpocket PRIV  The scene of some of the hottest weekend parties in Wrocław at the moment, the newly renovated PRIV directly collaborates with a network of clubs in London, resulting in the regular appearance of some of the biggest names in the UK’s club scene handling the DJ decks. Of course it can feel a bit unfriendly at the door, but once inside you’ll find an intimate club with a modern greyscale design, amazing sound, VIP room (for up to 20 peeps), lights and eye-candy convulsing on two dance floors - one devoted to house music, and the other R’n’B.QB-3, Rynek 36/37, tel. (+48) 609 66 96 96. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 04:00. XW

 ADULT  ADUL T ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT NEW MALAWI NIGHT CLUB Describing themselves as “high-end and ultra-modern,” Malawi offers all the pleasures you’d seek in this type of locale: that is, pole dancing, striptease, massages, and a six-person bath, where you’d presumably be accompanied by attractive women and not just your mates. Located a 12-minutes away by foot from the market square.QE-4, ul. Aleksandra Zelwerowicza 18A, tel. (+48) 508 50 83 93, www.malawi.wroclaw. pl. Open 21:00 - 06:00. X facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Wrocław Sightseeing Built upon dozens of islands, the river is never far away - nor is an eye-opening view (see above). From ancient architecture to modish murals and Soviet-era neons, Wrocław Wrocław has it all and more; so put that drink down and go discover all there is to see and do in this incredible inc redible city. city.

Sightseeing Of all the cities in Poland, Wrocław possesses perhaps the most convoluted and turbulent history of them all. Known under dozens of different names as it was passed repeatedly between four countries (and the numerous kingdoms that preceded them), Wrocław was one of the most culturally and architecturally diverse cities in Central Europe before being reduced to rubble a mere 65 years ago. As the city proudly and painstakingly rebuilt itself, the post-war period saw a new wave of migrants from today’s western Ukraine enrich not only Wrocław’s ethnic makeup, but also its cultural wealth as many cultural treasures from Lwów were transplanted here. Since shedding the yoke of communism in 1989 and being ‘rediscovered’ by the west, Wrocław has firmly established itself among Prague and Kraków as one of Eastern Europe’s top tourist destinations and one of the undisputed highlights of Poland. Poland.

WHAT TO SEE If we think about Wrocław’s Wrocław’s city centre in terms of districts, there are three essential areas that visitors shouldn’t allow themselves to miss. The first is obviously the Old Town, with the marvellously restored Market Square at its centre and its maze of cobbled streets, canals, bridges and church spires. Essentially bound by the Odra River to the north and the Fosa Miejska - or city moat - to the south, this area that was once encircled by the city’s medieval defensive walls is where you’ll find the bulk of Wrocław’s historical monuments and museums, as well as many beautiful University buildings, soaring churches, and the city’s infamous gnomes. The Old Town also includes the ‘District of Mutual Respect’ (E/F-4) - a unique neighbourhood southwest of the market square which includes almost side by side the places of worship of four different denominations, including the city’s only surviving Jewish synagogue.

/polandinyourpocket  The Old Town may be the heart of Wrocław, Wrocław, but its soul is in ‘Cathedral Island’ within Ostrów Tumski (C/D-2, p.64). This ‘Cathedral easy walking distance northeast of the market square was the first part par t of Wrocław to be settled by Slavic tribes in the 9th century. Since a bishopric was built there in 1000AD it has remained an important place of royal and religious significance, and home to the city’s most important Cathedral. Finally, no visit to Wrocław is complete without a trip east of the Old Town to Centennial Hall (I-4, p.67). The city’s only UNESCO World Heritage site, this outstanding piece of architecture turned 100 in 2013 and is surrounded by beautiful parks and gardens, including Wrocław’s Wrocław’s Zoo and a spectacular multimedia fountain (closed for winter). Enjoy exploring Wrocław. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

WAIT, WHERE AM I?

Woodcut of ‘Bressla’ from the Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493

As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocław has been known by many names throughout its history. In fact, the national status of Wrocław has changed more often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Habsburgs (1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia (1741-1871), into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945), and finally back to Poland (1945-today, and hopefully tomorrow as well), Wrocław cannot be claimed as the by-rights homeland of any one nation or people (despite the past efforts of politically motivated revisionist historians to prove otherwise. The city’s makeup has always been culturally and religiously diverse, with Poles, Germans, Bohemians, Austrians and Jews all making significant contributions to Wrocław’s development. With With so many influences and upheavals, Wrocław (as we know it today) has seen more than its fair share of names used in common parlance Vratislava, Wrotizla, throughout the years, including Vratislava, Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav, Presslaw  and Bresslau (to name but a few). It’s not uncommon today to still see and hear Wrocław referred to by its old German name, ‘Breslau’, particularly by and for the German nostalgia tourists who come here to seek their roots. The Polish name ‘Wrocław’ apparently predates the German name, and is thought to have been derived from the name of the Czech sovereign ‘Vratislav’. ‘Vratislav’. Variants of the German name began appearing in documents shortly after Poland lost control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim that Frederick the Great changed the city’s name to Breslau in 1741, though this is subject to historical dispute.  The problem of Wrocław’ Wrocław’ss complex complex titular nomenclature nomenclature was a challenge historian Norman Davies tackled when writing his thorough history of the city; Davies eventually settled on ‘Microcosm’ as the title of his excellent book in acknowledgement of the city’s standing as a constant crossroads for Eastern European cultures and concerns, and the unfairness of putting such a wide-ranging study under a title with a limited representation of its history. And while the temptation to re-title this little tome ‘Microcosm In Your Pocket ’ is ever-present, we’ve got enough connotative problems as it is… January - April 2016

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 The Old Town Town

 The market square and Town Hall

If there’s room for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, you’ll find no more rewarding experience than meandering around the Old Town. While you’re at it, keep your eyes peeled for Wrocław’s adorable and elusive gnomes (p.63); there are over 300 of these little rascals running about the city centre, but you’ll only spot them if you’re paying attention. Kids love them so if you want to keep the little ones engaged as you explore the city, set them to gnome-hunting.  The first port of call in Wrocław, Wrocław, and that which the entire city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek (A/B-3, p.55). This is not only the city’s municipal centre, but also the social and cultural centre of Wrocław: a place of happenings, concerts and performance art, lined with terraced cafes and restaurants. Note that while the Rynek was originally built in the 13th century, much of what you see today is in fact a façade, quite literally. The square was ravaged by fighting in World War II and had to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s. Though strict attention was given to original details, particularly those of the frontage, much of what lies behind them experienced understandable updating (though a medieval cellar never stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly square-shouldered in the square’s centre stands the Town Hall - a miraculous survivor from the 13th century and the city centre’s centre’s defining landmark. After exploring the three passageways packed with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall you should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3) - known these days as the Flower Market, and always a bright sight thanks to the scores of flower sellers on call here twentyfour hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency, ready to meet the requirements of empty-fisted empty-fi sted Romeos. From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St. Elizabeth’s Church (A-3, p.56), the city’s tallest. Stunning views of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that the climb can be crippling for those who haven’t seen a 54 

Wrocław In Your Pocket

© Gosiek-B, istockphoto.com

Stairmaster for some time. Only a block north from there you’ll find Wrocław’s smallest and most engaging street Stare Jatki (A-2, p.61) - en route to the stunning University (B-2, p.56), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush for grotty students; don’t move on before seeing the University Church (yes, even the university has a church), Aula Leopoldina - the grand Baroque ceremonial hall, or the panoramic city cit y views from the Mathematical Tower. Tower. From Plac Uniwersytecki take a walk east to investigate the Baroque majesty of the Ossolineum   palace and gardens (B-2, p.62) - home to one of the most important libraries and national archives in the country (and open to the public) - before dog-legging on to Plac Nankiera (B-2). This lovely street (not ‘plac, ‘plac,’ as you’ll notice) is lined with churches and leads you straight to Wrocław’s Wrocław’s amazing indoor mar ketplace, Hala Targowa (C-2, p.76). Here you can pick-up fresh produce and sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy bargain b argain brica-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping needs you have while getting a colourful look at locals living their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap pierogi (what, your radar ’s not going off?). From there, locals will not forgive you for missing out on the Racławice Panorama  (C-3, p.60), especially after all the trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A 140m-long canvas depicting Kościuszko’s legendary (and short-lived) victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of the only remaining panoramic paintings in the world - a genre that was actually quite popular in the 19th century. If you follow the Fosa Miejska - the remnants of the Old  Town’  Town’s medieval moat - you’ll end up at Partisan Hill (B/C-4, p.61), a spooky windswept ruin that once made up part of Wrocław’s defensive fortifications. Follow it a bit further and you’ll end up just behind the restored Royal Palace (A-3, p.60) - Wrocław’s most modern and essential museum. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing GUIDED TOURS

MARKET SQUARE

FREE WALKING TOUR FOUNDATION FOUNDATION  This outfit out fit offers off ers free  English-language walking tours of the Old Town every day at 10:00, and ‘Jewish Wrocław’ every Monday and Thursday at 14:00, Fridays at 17:30. All tours leave from beside the Fredro monument on the market square, or nearby in front of Bank Zachodni WBK (Rynek 9/11) if the monument is obstructed;  just  jus t look for the ‘Free ‘Fre e Walking Walk ing Tours’ sign si gn and have some cash ready to tip these fine people at the tour’s conclusion. Additional tours are also available, so check their website. Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com. WRATISLAVIA TOUR  This outfit organises airport airpor t transfers, walking tours and also golf cart tours of the Old Town. Tours around Lower Silesia and out of town are also available, as are less traditional tours and activities like shooting, laser tag, culinary workshops, bird watching and much more. Reservations can be made by phone or online. Qtel. (+48) 793 15 43 30, www.wratislaviatour.com. Tours in English, 350zł. WROCŁAW CITY TOURS With over 30 different tours of Wrocław and Silesia available, these folks can arrange golf cart tours, river cruises, whatever you want. Tours available in English, Spanish, German, Russian and Polish starting at 219zł. Call one day in advance. Qtel. (+48) 513 94 69 46, www.wroclawcitytour.pl.

© badahos, Dollar Photo Club

While you’re taking in the medieval majesty of the Wrocław’s market square (Rynek), bear in mind that it was almost totally rebuilt from a pile of ruins after the Siege of 1945. Such was the remarkable dedication to detail of Wrocław’s ‘pioneers’ - those who resettled here from the east after WWII - that today tourists can even admire a replica of the stone pillory (south east of the  Town  Town Hall, B-3) used to flog people from 1492 to well into the 18th century. In the post-war period the statue of famous writer Aleksander Fredro (seated southwest of the Town Town Hall, A-3) was also brought from f rom Lviv in 1956 to replace the statue that had previously occupied the space up till the end of the war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm.

WROCŁAW � SILESIA TOURS Demonstrating Wrocław’s diversity with theme tours that trace the city’s different cultures and religions, Wrocław Silesia Tours offer tours around the city in golf carts, mini-vans, historic trams, or on foot. They can also take you to places a bit further afield such as Książ, Świdnica, Jelenia Góra or Auschwitz. Tours available in English, German, Spanish and Portuguese. Call one day in advance to negotiate prices.Qtel. (+48) 509 96 00 34, www.wroclawsilesiatours.pl.

Wrocław’s market square and much of the urban grid around it was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was then and remains even now one of the largest squares of its kind in Europe, and the magnificent Town Hall (Ratusz) at its centre is a masterpiece of medieval architecture. Work began on the city’s administrative seat in the late 13th century and continued for 250 years, resulting in the eclectic edifice covered in decorative embellishments that we see today. Today the beautiful ensemble contains the Museum of Burgher Art (p.60), as well as numerous restaurants, cafes and bars.

Michał Filarowski - tel. +48 793 154 330

Ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau, the impressive facades of the townhouses lining the market square also deserve closer inspection, one notable exception being the drab ten-storey office building at Rynek 11. Completed in 1931 the structure was designed by Heinrich Rump and offers a glimpse of how the market square may have looked had a ludicrous project to modernise the historic centre come to fruition. It was the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete bliss called Centennial Hall (p.68) - to demolish the buildings surrounding the Rynek, replacing them with 20 storey concrete towers. After much deliberation city authorities abandoned the plan, in the process saving the Wrocław loved by all today. QA/B-3.

office@ wratislaviatour.com - www.wratislaviatour.com

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Sightseeing WROCŁAW UNIVERSITY

© Paweł Mruk | dollar photo club

Founded by the Jesuits in 1670, the magnificent Baroque main building of Wrocław University and the adjacent Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus (p.56) were built on the site of a derelict Piast castle after a land grant from Emperor Leopold. In 1811, Prussia secularised secular ised all church property and took over administration of the university. The dying days of WWII saw the university library turned into a makeshift HQ for the occupying Nazis, and at the war’s end the German faculty were all but exiled, with the replacement professors who arrived from the University of Lwów forming the first Polish faculty to teach here. Past professors include Alois Alzheimer (who gave his name to the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who didn’t invent the Bunsen burner but improved it to such a degree that it was named in his honour). Since the start of the 20th century the university has produced a remarkable 9 Nobel Prize winners, and over 40,000 new students are enrolled each year. Despite its ongoing function as an academic institution, the main university building is open to tourists as a museum. Three tickets are available, giving you access to 2, 3 or 4 rooms, plus a free audioguide (available in English, Polish, German, Russian, Spanish or Italian). We recommend you splash out for all four rooms, but be aware that they are laid out over four floors and there is no elevator.  The first of the University’s main highlights is Aula Leopoldina - a ceremonial hall exploding with cherubs and Baroque swag. The painting on the ceiling depicts the apotheosis of God’s wisdom, while portraits of the university’s founding fathers ring the walls; years ago four of them were stolen and two have yet to be returned. Winding upstairs past the odd exhibition and a line in the floor demarcating the 51st parallel which runs right through the building - your visit to the museum ends on the terrace of the university’s ‘Mathematical Tower’ which affords panoramic views of the Old Town and Odra River. QB-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375 26 18, www. muzeum.uni.wroc.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:30; closed Wed. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10-12/6-8zł depending on how many rooms you wish to visit. N 56  Wrocław In Your Pocket

CHURCHES ST. ST. ELIZABETH’S CHURCH CH URCH Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and the tallest buildings in the Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable. A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the current Gothic structure dates to the 14th 14t h century. This This is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529 by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII and then was the victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church serves as a military garrison church. Inside you’ll find impressive Gothic and Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of once prominent citizens. From April to September (weather dependent), the highlight is the 91m tower (the original tower was 128m), but don’t underestimate the climb of over 300 steps. The view from the top is more than worth the arduous journey and 5zł. QA-3, ul. Św. Elżbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.kosciolgarnizon. wroclaw.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please. ST. MARY MAGDALENE’S CHURCH  This massive church was the second to be built on the left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalbert’s. During the Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and was not returned to the Catholic Church until after WWII. Its most striking features are the 12th-century Romanesque portal that was moved here from the Benedictine Abbey considered to be Wrocław’s most valuable relic from that era er a - and the unique ‘Penitants’Bridge’ spanning the two soaring, so aring, yet stunted towers whose cupolas were never replaced after WWII. Climb the tower for thrilling views of the Old Town while traversing the open-air bridge 46m above ground. QB-3, ul. Szewska 10, www.mariamagdalena.wroclaw. pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please. UNIVERSITY CHURCH OF THE BLESSED NAME OF JESUS  This Late Baroque church has been ranked among the most beautiful in Central Europe, and makes a worthwhile visit. Built by the Jesuits as part of the university complex in the late 17th century on the site of the Piast castle, a section of the original castle structure can still be seen in the northern sacristy - the alcove at the far end of the church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is very well preserved and most of the furnishings f urnishings are original. Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18thcentury depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa, Asia and Europe. Visitors are even given an audioguide which is available in seven different languages. Unfortunately the church is closed for visiting until March, after which it will be open 11:00 - 15:00. Donations suggested, but not required.QB-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MONUMENTS MONUMENT TO THE VICTIMS OF THE KATYŃ MASSACRE Anyone who has an unindoctrinated knowledge of World War II history or who has spent more than 15 minutes in Poland, is probably familiar with the subject of this memorial which remembers the 22,000 Polish military officers, policemen, intelligentsia and POWs murdered by the NKVD on Stalin’s orders in 1940. Designed by Warsaw sculptor Tadeusz Tchórzewski, the striking monument depicts the sword-wielding Angel of Death on a high pedestal over the figure of Katyń Pieta - the Matron of the Homeland despairing over the body of a murdered prisoner of war. Symbolic granite walls/graves flank the scene, with the names of the POW camps and places of mass murder inscribed on them. Anguished, terrifying and gruesome in turn, with detail down to the bullethole in the back of the fallen officer’s head, this evocative monument was unveiled in 1999 and can be found in the park next to the Racławice Panorama.QD-3, Słowacki Park. THE ANONYMOUS PEDESTRIANS When you’re tired of gazing at Wrocław’s multitude of cherubs, gargoyles and bearded national heroes clutching important pens and looking frightfully serious, hike on down to this intersection to have a look at an entirely different take on public art. The wonderfully lifelike bronze statues descending into the earth are a memorial to the introduction of martial law on December 13, 1981, and the hordes of people who disappeared (‘went underground’) in the middle of the night courtesy of the militia. The work of Jerzy Kalina, the 14 statues were erected here in the middle of the night in 2005 on the 24th anniversary of the introduction of martial law, though the prophetic moulds were actually made several years before the events they commemorate.QA-5, Corner of ul. Piłsudskiego and ul. Świdnicka. THE NAKED SWORDSMAN  The University of Wrocław presents plenty of superb photographic opportunities, but the most popular has to be the naked swordsman proudly exhibiting himself at the entrance of the main building. The work of Hugo Lederer, the splendidly anatomical sculpture was erected in 1904 and prompted complaints from parish priests that students would be morally corrupted by the statue’s naked form. Early grumblings were countered by the legend that the statue represents an extravagant gambler who squandered all but his sword in drunken card games - thus serving as an example to the university’s 30,000+ students. Town mayor George Bender agreed and the statue has stood ever since. QB-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

TOURIST INFORMA INFORMATION TION INFOWRO JATKI JATKI WROCŁAW QA-2, ul. Jatki 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 41 16. Open 10:00 - 18:00. LOWER SILESIAN CULTURAL CULTURAL INFORMATION INFORMATION CENTRE QA-3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91, www.dcik.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TOURIST INFORMA INFOR MATION TION QA-3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 31 11, www. wroclaw-info.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. W

Full contents online: wroclaw.inyourpocket.com SKY TOWER Completed in 2012, Wrocław boasts the tallest building in Poland, which rises some 212m into the atmosphere. Comprising a small city in and of itself, with residential apartments, offices, shops, restaurants, entertainment and more over its 50 floors, tourists have plenty of reasons to visit this modern architectural marvel, including the largest pool hall in PL, a 24-lane bowling alley (see Leisure), an oversized Salvador Dali sculpture, and an amazing interactive installation of 60 screens that react to the movement of visitors as they engage the 40m2 exhibit on the first floor (note though that this isn’t always running).  The highlight, however however,, is the year-round indoor indoor viewing point on the 49th floor. At a height of 200 metres, this is the highest panoramic view point in Poland, and accessed by an elevator which whisks you to the top in less than a minute. Located only minutes from the Old  Town,  Town, take trams 7 or 20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’QE-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 95, www.galeria.skytower. pl. View point open Mon-Thu 09:00 - 20:30, Fri-Sat 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Access is granted every 30mins on the :00 and :30 marks. View point admission Mon-Fri 11/6zł, Sat-Sun 15/8zł; children 3 and under free. Ticket office on level +1; clearly marked signs will guide you there. N January - April 2016

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Sightseeing WROCŁAW CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM

© sidbradypus / Dollar Photo Club

 This old air raid shelter just west of the Old Town has been resurrected as a place for contemporary art in Wrocław. The round and concrete above-ground bunker has been cleverly adapted with an elevator at its centre which whizzes you up to the fantastic 6th floor cafe, which features a terrace and great views, and may just be the highlight of visiting here. As for the art, the permanent exhibit focuses on contemporary art from the 20th Century with a strong Wrocław presence and they have numerous temporary exhibitions (see our Culture & Events section to see what’s on).  The most striking pieces in the whole collection are outside the museum itself. Local artist Stanisław Dróżdż’s Hour-glass  on the facade of the building and the amazing and enormous   Train to Heaven sculpture of a vertical locomotive nearby will make you get your camera out .  To  To get there, hop on trams 3, 10, 20, 23, or 33 (quite a bit of choice there) at the ‘Rynek’ stop, getting off 3 stops later at ‘Pl. Strzegomski.’ Keep in mind that this is only a temporary location - a new museum headquarters is set to spring up on ul. Purkyniego (C-3), near the Racławice Panorama, the Museum of Architecture, and the Academy of Fine Arts. Ar ts. QPl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibit; temporary exhibits 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł, Thu admission free. U 58 

Wrocław In Your Pocket

MUSEUMS ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM Like all the best museums in Poland, Wrocław’s Archaeological Museum is located inside a building that’s that’s a museum in itself. In this instance the city ’s former 15th-century Arsenal plays host to the usual suspects found lurking in most museums of its type. There are English captions now for many exhibits, while others, such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched house fascinate without the need to know more. With four free permanent exhibits - Stone Age and early Bronze Age, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Medieval Silesia, displays include everyday objects from these times such as weapons, ornaments and tools; note that temporary exhibits sometimes require an additional paid ticket. In the same building you’ll also find the Military Museum. QA-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits. U ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM Located inside a gorgeous 16th century monastery, the city’s ‘architecture museum’ is actually more of a decorative and applied arts museum, with much of the collections consisting of decorative details from the built environment that were lost during WWII. Permanent displays include beautiful examples of stained glass from the 12th century to the Art Nouveau era, a collection of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door handles, a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles, and a large model of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly shows its status as a fortress surrounded by water. Keeps your eyes peeled for occasional temporary exhibits as well, which usually require an admission fee. Q C-3, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free for permanent exhibits. U ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Located outside the Old Town in the gorgeous 18thcentury Neo-Baroque summer palace of Wrocław’s bishops, this under-appreciated museum traces Silesian folk culture and customs. The best part may be the top floor where life-sized dolls are arranged in quaint scenes of life in the region before 1945. It won’t take you long to see it, but the national costumes and farm equipment offer a glimpse of life you won’t find in urban Wrocław. And the museum’s strange fondness for the definite article in the English labels is i s worth a giggle. To get there take tram t ram 3 from ‘Rynek,’ ‘Rynek,’ getting off at ‘Pl. Zgody.’QH-5, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www. muzeumetnograficzne.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł, children under 7 free, groups of over 10 pay 2zł per person, Sat free. Admission free with a ticket to the Racławice Panorama. UN wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MILITARY MUSEUM

 The other half of the 15thcentury arsenal that houses the Archaeology Museum is, appropriately, the Military Museum. Not surprisingly, the medieval halls are filled with arms and weapons of all sorts, many of them dating to the 18th century. Helmets, swords and guns are the forte here, and you probably know better than we do if it’s worth the hour of your time it’ll consume.QA-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibit; temporary exhibits 15/10zł. NATIONAL NATIONAL MUSEUM Wrocław’s National Museum houses one of the largest collections of Polish art. Before the 18th century this means almost exclusively religious art: altarpieces, urns for relics, busts of saints and the like. Later parts of the collection also include applied arts and quite a few pieces on national themes (uprisings and saints figure heavily in Polish history). Unfortunately, the best bits are moving to the ‘Four ‘Four Domes Pavilion’ at Centennial Hall - which will open as a new branch of the National Museum dedicated to contemporary art sometime in 2016 - and aren’t on view at the moment. QD-3, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From April open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, students under 26 (with ID) 1zł, children under 7 free, Sat free for permanent exhibitions, groups of over 10 people 5zł per person. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama. U POST & COMMUNICATIONS MUSEUM Housed inside 1929’s former Central Post Office, this magnificent building was one of the first high-rises in Wrocław and is easily recognisable from the Old Town thanks to the crown of satellite dishes on its roof. Today it houses one of the city’s most idiosyncratic and fascinating museums, displaying the complex history of Poland’s postal service and the development of communications technology from the 16th century to the present day. Over two floors you’ll see a wealth of paintings and graphics, postage stamps, mailboxes, mail carriages, uniforms, decorative letter scales and other instruments including early telegram machines, telephones, radios and computers. The unique and engrossing experience even includes information in English and is a great way to change your att attitude itude towards PL’s PL’s postal service from one of frustration to admiration and wonder. Visiting takes about 1 hour and is recommended. English language guided group tours are available if arranged in advance.QC-3, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 65, www.muzeum.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission 8/6zł, Sun free, Weds 15:00 - 17:00 2zł; family ticket 15zł. Groups over 10 people 5zł per person. N facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

FEEL THE HISTORY!

See how Wroclaw fought against communism.  Ask about the possibility possibility of seeing seeing the hidden room! room!

KONSPIRA - CAFE REST RESTAURANT AURANT CLUB Pl. Solny 11, Wrocław | konspira.org

KONSPIRA  In addition to being a fantastically cheap Polish restaurant, Konspira is a self-declared ‘Centre for Historical Education.’ The interior is designed to emulate the 1980s, while giving guests a glimpse into the Soviet era via newspapers, posters, political cartoons and other iconography on the walls. None of this would be particularly useful to naive non-Polish speakers, but Konspira has another rabbit in its hat that’s worth revealing. One of the restaurant’s wardrobes is actually a secret passageway into a hidden room that recreates an ‘80s Polish apartment, filled with everyday household items, toys, appliances, and even police batons and riot gear from the martial law days. It’s a unique look into the past, and the fact that the staff  isn’t that forthcoming about it (you might have to ask) almost makes the act of entry feel cooly clandestine.  This entire establishment is a bit of a museum, and though you’ll get more out of it with a local guide, even without one it’s worth investigating; and the food is certainly worth staying for. QA-3, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. January - April 2016

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Sightseeing RACŁAWICE PANORAMA   This unique 15 by 140m panoramic painting depicts the first battle of the Kościuszko Uprising, in which General Tadeusz Kościuszko orchestrated and led an armed peasant rebellion against Russian rule in a heroic bid for Polish independence in 1794. Kosciuszko’s rag-tag scythe-wielding troops won the day, but the Uprising was ultimately doomed and Poland wouldn’t be truly self-governing until the 20th century. That hasn’t stopped the short-lived victory from being an enduring source of Polish pride to this day, however.  The Panorama was created created in a burst of patriotic fervour by Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak in Lwów over 9 months, and completed in 1894. Their work, displayed in a rotunda built especially for it, was a popular and financial - success. After WWII, the Soviet Union, which absorbed Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine), sent the painting to Wrocław. Wrocław. Its subject, however, was a bit too nationalistic for the local Communist authorities, who rejected several bids to display it. The current building was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was not installed for display until 1985. Unfortunately almost nothing has changed since then, and the overpriced attraction is run in the same manner it was 30 years ago. Still, an unbelievable 1,600 people (including dozens of school groups) file through each day, so don’t expect to just walk right in; admission occurs every half-hour and you’ll very likely have to wait. The painting is augmented with lights and artificial terrain to make the experience more ‘real’ as you are narrated through the battle by a taped lecture on your own private headset which is available in an astounding 17 languages (including Esperanto). Poles will consider it their patriotic duty to come here, but the experience may resonate less positively with other tourists, unless you’re a fan of obscure and forgotten genres of 19th century art.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344 23 44, www.panoramaraclawicka.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 30/23zł, family ticket 23zł per person, children under 7 free. U

Detail of Kościuszko directing his hi s rag-tag army. 60  Wrocław In Your Pocket

THE ROYAL PALACE, HISTORY MUSEUM

 The main branch of the Wrocław City Museum, housed inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace, is Wrocław’s most modern, most essential, and, quite frankly, best museum. Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia in 1750, the palace was converted to become the royal residence of the Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function which it served from the 17th to 20th century. Badly damaged during WWII, only half of the structure survived and now houses four free  permanent exhibitions: ‘1000 Years of Wrocław’, tracing the complex history histor y of the Lower Silesian capital from the Middle Ages to the modern day through its art and artefacts; The Gallery of Art in Wrocław; the meticulous recreated royal apartments; and the unique Beyersdorf Room, decorated entirely in Dutch tiles from the 17th century. It takes the better part of a day to see it all, but there’s a nice cafe when you need a break, and make sure you don’t miss the regal Baroque gardens behind the palace.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71 391 69 40, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. English-speaking guided tour 400zł. Audio guides in English and German 10 zł. U TOWN HALL, MUSEUM OF BURGHER ART  The first firs t thing thin g you’ll probab p robably ly notice noti ce about abo ut the Town Hall (Ratusz) is that it seems to be patched together from bits and pieces of a dozen different buildings, and in many ways it was. Construction began at the end of the 13th century and continued - through all the changing political and artistic forces - for about 250 years. The  Town Hall was the centre of city life up until the early 20th century, housing the Town Council, merchants’ stalls and (most importantly?) a beer cellar. The building escaped relatively unscathed after World War II (an estimated 10% was damaged). After reconstruction work, it was re-opened as the Museum of Burgher Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczańskiej). Inside you can see the remarkable Gothic interiors, a collection of silver and other city artefacts. Unfortunately these exhibits are poorly marked and finding your way around can be a bit of a stab in the dark . For us, the most fun part of the Town Town Hall is exploring the elaborate exterior decoration; see if you can find scenes from Aesop’s fables, or grotesque scenes of medieval pub life. QA-3, Rynek, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 90, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits. U wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing PLACES OF INTEREST PARTISAN HILL HIL L If you’re walking along ul. Ks. Skargi it’s impossible to miss the grandiose crescent-shaped structure rising above Most Skargi. One of the few remaining ancient fortifications that once protected the Old Town from invasion, Partisan Hill was built between 1594 and 1598, and originally awarded the name ‘Bastion Sakwowy’ (Saddlebag Bastion). The buildings you see today date from the 19th century, however, when the area was redeveloped as public recreational space. A fearsome tower designed by Berlin architect Carl Schmidt was added in 1867, though this was demolished during WWII to prevent advancing Russian troops from using it as a reference point for artillery shelling. At the start of the Siege of 1945 the subterranean bunkers and catacombs were used as HQ by Nazi high command, though they relocated in March 1945 as the Red Army drew closer. After the war the hillock was oddly re-christened ‘Partisan Hill’ and the old cellars temporarily housed a museum. Sadly sold to private investors in the 1990s, and having since been occupied by beer gardens, strip clubs and restaurants, today the area lies in complete disarray, forlorn and forgotten - a once gleaming construction littered with smashed bottles and spray can squiggles. At the moment a fence feebly attempts to cordon off the crumbling arcades, while two bars keep parts of this complex accessible to the public - Wicar’s Pub in the cellars, and Colloseum Jazz Club in the old observatory at the top. Partisan Hill’s legends of Nazi tunnels and medieval torture chambers, combined with the creepy, wind-swept loneliness of the site today, make this place a must for those who enjoy the thrill of urban trespassing.QB-4, ul. Ks. Skargi.

/polandinyourpocket STARE JATKI One of Wrocław’s most engaging streets, ul. Jatki is no more than one city block long, connecting ul. Kiełbaśnicza with ul. Odrzańska. It’ It ’s picturesque charm is no doubt due to the fact that it has retained its medieval character throughout the ages; though most of the structures on Stare Jatki date from the 17th and 18th centuries, the line of low level buildings were constructed on medieval foundations and some elements from the 13th century are still visible on the south side of the street. Though in past times the principal industry here was meat - butchered beasts filled the wooden stalls, today the alleyway is home to numerous artists’ studios and souvenir stalls. The defining feature of Stare Jatki is the collection of cast iron farm animals at the start of the street. Sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek Wieczorek and erected in the 1990s this ‘Memorial to Slaughtered Animals’ was funded by the local government, and in addition to being one of Wrocław’s most photographed attractions, also serves as an obstacle course for party casualties pouring out of Klub Na Jatkach. QA-2, ul. Jatki. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

STREET ART

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art (check out Wrocław’s Polish Poster Gallery  at ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, E-4, if you want proof), but when it comes to public street graffiti, too often it steers closer to ‘vandalism,’ rarely graduating beyond slurs, gang signs and football allegiances. Thanks Thanks to a strong underground art community, however, visitors to Wrocław will encounter encounter plenty of urban space that has been elaborately decorated with street art that strives to be just that: art. In fact, thanks to its own initiative of embracing rather than rejecting the trend, Wrocław has made itself a veritable destination for large-scale street art. Today the city is decorated with dozens of highly visible murals in public space, and with that number growing all the time, urban art has emerged as a legitimate attraction in the city. Formerly a strictly underground art form, things started to change in 2008 when the curators of the city’s vanguard Galeria Awangarda organised Poland’s first Out of Sth’) by inviting 20 of street art festival (dubbed ‘Out Europe’s biggest names in urban art to do installations throughout Wrocław. A year later cult culture hangout Niskie Łąki helped organise the first Pink Piknik Festival , filling the entire courtyard between ul. Ruska and ul. Św. Antoniego (E-4) with colourful art. Further editions of Out of Sth followed in 2010 and 2012, and with Wrocław University  and the city itself (as part of its European Capital of Culture 2016 programme) also contributing commissions, Wrocław has strongly secured its status as Poland’s street art ar t capital.  Those with with an interest in street art will will have no problem tracking down some of the city’s finest examples and we’re making it even easier. In the maps of our print guide you’ll find many of Wrocław’s most visible murals marked with spray paint can icon so you can literally use them to give yourself a self-guided tour of the city’s mural art. We encourage you to do just that and check out some of Wrocław’s alternative artistic visions. January - April 2016

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Sightseeing NEON WROCŁAW

Communist Poland typically calls to mind a cold, colourless landscape of uniform concrete drabness - essentially the antithesis of energetic and illuminated Times Square or Las Vegas, the very pinnacles of capitalist decadence and indecency. The little known irony here, however, is that neon signage - which is most closely associated with American commercialism and consumerism - was actually prolific in the People’s Republic of Poland during the Cold War era. After Socialist Realism died with Stalin in the late 50s, a new, less restricted period of creative expression began in Poland, and neon rather oddly became the favoured medium of city authorities looking for an inexpensive way to brighten the grey urban landscape and create a veneer of economic prosperity at a time when stores shelves were practically bare. During the ‘neonisation’ programme of the 1960s and ‘70s, the country’s most gifted architects and graphic designers were commissioned to create unique neon advertising for everything from Polish products and state-run companies to cultural landmarks like cinemas, theatres, nightclubs and train stations. Vibrant, stylish and often incredibly creative neon signs were an integral part of the urban landscape of communist Poland.  Though  Though the collapse collapse of the the communi communist st economy economy meant the plug got pulled on the country’s countr y’s neons back in the late ‘70s, today neon is back in vogue and the country’s signs are being restored. Wrocław is still home to some of PL’s most iconic and most photographed neon signs. Neon greets visitors immediately upon arrival throughout the Wrocław train station  (B-6), and the famous ‘Dobry Wieczór we Wrocławiu’ (Good Evening in Wrocław ) sign across the street is there to welcome you as soon as you step foot outside (B-5). Other famous Soviet-era neons include the entrance gate of the Wrocław Zoo (I-4) and the animated antics of the burglar atop the PZU building on Plac Kościuszki (A-4), while the modern, hand-scripted sign of the Academy of Fine Arts   (ul.  Traugutt  Trauguttaa 19/21, C-4) encapsulate encapsulatess the comeback comeback this art form has made in recent years. The opening of Neon Side Club & Gallery  (E-4, p.46) now gives visitors the opportunity to admire dozens of salvaged neon signs all in one place, while directly connecting neon to local hipster culture. On our website you’ll find all of Wrocław’s most electrifying neons listed with GPS coordinates so you can use the mobile version of our website (wroclaw.inyourpocket.com) on your smartphone to easily go out and get your ne-on. 62  Wrocław In Your Pocket

THE OSSOLINEUM  This  This stunnin stunningg Baroq Baroque ue palac palacee compl complex ex on on the the Odra Odra riverban riverbankk was rebuilt to its late 17th century designs after being damaged heavily during WWII and is today one of the most outstanding works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnificent grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an important research centre and national archive, the country’s oldest still-running publishing centre and one of its largest library collections. Established in 1817 by Józef Maksymilian Ossoliński when he began collecting Polish manuscripts and cultural documents in his Vienna flat, recognising their importance to national culture after Poland was wiped from the world map, Ossoliński’s private library became a national institute and was eventually moved to Lviv where it expanded generously. After post-war border changes the collection was moved to Wrocław, however communist authorities confiscated over 80% of it which presumably remains in Lviv today. The collections of the Ossolineum are some of the most valuable in the country and include manuscripts by Polish bards Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, writings by Copernicus, and drawings by Rembrandt and Durer. The site of regular free exhibitions (which have their own opening hours), the Ossolineum is otherwise worth a look around for the building itself, with the library and inner and outer courtyards all accessible to the public.QB-2, ul. Szewska 37, tel. (+48) 71 344 44 71, www.ossolineum.pl. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. WATER WATER TOWER Modelled on a medieval castle, this architectural masterpiece only a short tram ride south of the centre shouldn’t be missed. Originally designed by Karl Klimm, an eminent Breslau architect and the brains behind the Zwierzyniecki Bridge (J-4), the 63m tower was completed in 1905 and supplied water to the residents of southern Wrocław, with the base of the building used to house employees. From its beginnings this fairytale tower was equipped with an electric lift to whisk visitors to the top for panoramic views; costing 10 pfennigs, a clear day would afford sightseers uninterrupted views of the Sudety Mountains 100kms away, and a red flag would wave from the top whenever viewing was deemed particularly good.  The sculptors Taschner and Bednorz added several intricate carvings to the sandstone, including medieval style bas reliefs depicting winged beasts engaged in gruesome scenes, and a spectacular fountain spouting water from the underground spring below the building. During the 1945 Siege of Breslau the tower served as a military observation point, and in spite of heavy shelling in the immediate vicinity survived largely unscathed. Up until the ‘80s it continued to function as a water plant, though black with soot and pockmarked with bullet holes. In 1995 it was purchased by Stephan Elektronik Investment and restored it to its former glory. Unfortunately there’s no viewing platform at the top today, but if you make the trip you can dine inside at the Wieża Ciśnień bistro and restaurant. To get there hop on tram numbers 2, 6 or 7, getting off at the ‘Pl. Powstańców Śląskich’ stop.QE-7, ul. Sudecka 125a. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Wrocław’s Wrocław’ s Gnom G nomes es After the eventual fall of communism in Poland, gnomes remained a symbol of Wrocław, repurposed by the new government to be a tribute to the Orange Movement, as well as playful, family-friendly ambassadors of the city.  The first gnome statuette was Papa Krasnal (the largest of his progeny), who was placed on the corner of ul. Świdnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (A-4), where Orange Alternative demonstrations often took place, to celebrate the history of the Orange Alternative in 2001. Things really took off in 2005, however, when local artist Tomasz Moczek - a graduate of the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts - was commissioned by Wrocław City Council to create five more gnomes. The little devils proved so popular that envious local businesses quickly got in on the game by contracting other local artists to produce more, and in almost no time Photo by Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office, at all gnomes had proliferated around Wrocław to the point Muncipality of Wrocław  that they now constitute a veritable ‘sub-population’ of the One of Wrocław’s most popular, memorable and iconic city. The little buggers are currently rumoured to be running attractions is not a cathedral, castle or monument, but rampant to the score of over 300(!), making it literally a legion of little people: gnomes, or ‘krasnale’ (in local impossible for us to try and keep track of them, or for visitors parlance), to be precise. In Wrocław’s city centre these to try to find all of them on their own. Seeing how many merry munchkins are simply ubiquitous - dotting doorways, door ways, gnomes you can spot while you’re in Wrocław, however, is alleyways and street corners; constantly underfoot but an incredibly fun alternative to traditional sightseeing, and a only seen by the observant. You may well overlook the great way to keep the kids involved while tramping around first dozen or so that cross your path, but inevitably - town. To help you out we’ve included 25 of our favourite and often literally - you will stumble upon these popular gnomes on our website, with the exact address and GPS local residents. Keep your eyes peeled and you’re bound coordinates of their location; head to iyp.me/gnomes to to notice the little fellas engaged in a variety of activities easily find some of the city’s most popular gnomes on your about town - from guarding public space to passed-out smartphone. drunk. Beloved by locals and tourists alike, and the object of more photos than the towering Cathedral, these prolific If that’s not enough, you can also pick up a special map pranksters have become the unlikely symbol of one of PL’s from tourist information (Rynek 14, A-3) showing where to most picturesque cities. find 30 of the most centrally located gnomes, and there is even a special, dual-language (Polish and English) website Although it sounds like little more than a twee tourist dedicated to Wrocław’s gnomes - www.krasnale.pl gimmick, Wrocław’s gnomes actually have a direct - where you can find their history, photos and other correlation to the political climate of the 1980s. Under information, including downloadable maps of their various communism gnomes became the absurdist calling card locations. Spend an afternoon as a gnome-watcher and see of the ‘Orange Alternative’ - an underground protest how many of these mischievous miscreants you can spot as movement that used absurdity and nonsense to stage you stroll around town. Happy hunting! peaceful, yet subversive protests. Armed with paint cans and led by Waldemar ‘Major’ Fydrych, an artist and student at Wrocław University, the group started out by ridiculing the establishment’s attempts to censor public space. During communism, any anti-establishment graffiti or public art was quickly painted over by the militia; upon seeing fresh daubs of paint, the pranksters of the Orange Alternative quickly painted over them yet again...with gnomes. As the cheeky movement gained popularity, gnomes began to appear in demonstrations as well, with Major Fydrych handing out iconic peaked orange gnome hats to passing pedestrians and leading nonsensical marches for gnomes’ rights. TThe he resulting arrests ar rests of orangeclad and ridiculous-looking gnomes, plus dozens of bystanders detained for also wearing red, often made the nightly news and succeeded in making the authorities look idiotic. The movement caught on across the country, and Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office, O ffice, soon gnomes were appearing in other major cities as well. Muncipality of Wrocław  facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Ostrów Tumski

Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, Ostrów Ost rów Tumski Tumski is the gem at the centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, after all, is where the city began, making it one of the most historically significant parts of town, in addition to its most archaically picturesque. The district’s history has always been closely tied to Catholicism and today you’ll find an incredible concentration of religious buildings across the river, r iver, making it an incredibly peaceful place to explore and relax. During the latter part of the 9th century what is now known as Ostrów Tumski (the name means ‘Cathedral Island’ in Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the Ślężanie, who considered the island impregnable. The first bishopric in Lower Silesia soon followed in 1000, and for the next two and a half centuries Ostrów Tumski was the centre of Wrocław before the marauding Tartars proved they could indeed make it pregnant (so to speak); pregnant with fire and ruin, that is. After its destruction, the city’s nucleus shifted across the river where its development would be less restricted by rivers. Ostrów Tumski, meanwhile, became a place of almost exclusively religious and royal (the Piast Dynasty built a castle here in the 1260s) significance. With a few exceptions it remains primarily a place of worship and reflection to this day; as such, there are few shops, dwellings, cafes, bars and restaurants, and the Wrocław Archdiocese occupies almost all of the beautifully maintained classical buildings you will see. One of the first things observant visitors may notice is that though Ostrów Tumski is indeed accessed from central Wrocław by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until the 19th century, but persistent flooding led town planners to fill in one of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (though the 64  Wrocław In Your Pocket

city has sadly seen its share of floods since then as well). Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek, perhaps the real  joy of Ostrów Tumski is its other-worldly feel. Katedralna and Idziego Streets both provide cobbled reminders of the past - Idziego especially, though it lacks the postcard worthy sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit today by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll. Keep your eyes peeled at dusk for the district’s famous lamplighter  as he goes about his daily duty of lighting Ostów Tumski’s Tumski’s gas lamps by hand.

WHAT TO SEE A visit to this lovely, peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins at Most Piaskowy  (Sand Bridge, C-2). This is the oldest bridge in Wrocław, built in 1861 and an engineering marvel, if no great shakes on the design front. The original bridge, built back in the 11th century, century, was part par t of the ancient trade route - the Amber Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to Vienna, and thence to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the Baroque-era University Library, and the Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous for its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern nave. From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski (Tumski Bridge, C-2) leads you across to the oldest part of the city; look out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig), Silesia’s patron saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocław’s patron, at the head of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks placed on the bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the unbreakable bond they share going forward in life together. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Ostrów Tumski Following ul. Katedralna from there you’ll first come across the Church of Saints Peter & Paul before reaching the impressive monument of John of Nepomuk standing beneath the Church of the Holy Cross, a rare two-level church with two separate parishes. Continuing down picturesque ul. Katedralna you’ll pass two of the neighbourhood’s only places to rest and refuel - Cafeterie Chic at Katedralna 6 and Lwia Brama at Katedralna 9 - before standing beneath the beautiful Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (D-2), famous for its stunning stained glass windows and 16th century altarpiece. To the right of the Cathedral’s main portal is the Archbishop’s Palace, now the Archdiocese Museum  (the Archbishop lives elsewhere these days).

THE LAMPLIGHTER

CHURCH OF SAINTS SA INTS PETER & PAUL Crossing Tumski Bridge from Wyspa Piasek (Sand Island), this is the first church you’ll encounter on Ostrów Tumski. Original construction of this Gothic brick church took nearly 50 years between 1404 and 1452, only to see it destroyed by two fires, rebuilt, and then 40% obliterated during Festung Breslau. Reconstructed in the 1950s, the accuracy of the interior has since been disputed. Though you’ll find the front doors open in the summer, you won’t get past the inner gates to see the church in detail, and generally it is closed tel. (+48) 71 327 13 33. to the public.QC-2, ul. Katedralna, tel. ST. ST. MARTIN’S CHURCH  This tiny and somewhat irregularly shaped brick church is all that remains of the Piast dynasty’s 13th-century Royal Castle, which once stood on the island. St. Martin’s too, however, however, was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries. Before WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture in a primarily German city. cit y. Poles gathered here to hear sermons and sing hymns in their own language. The last Polish mass under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. A plaque outside reads in part, par t, “We “We are Poles... A Pole is a brother b rother to a Pole... Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our mother.” Outside St. Martin’s stands a massive monument to Pope John XXIII, placed here in 1986. QC-2, ul. Św. Marcina. Open only during mass (Sundays at 10:00). CHURCH OF THE HOL HO LY CROSS / ST. ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S BA RTHOLOMEW’S One of Ostrów O strów Tumski’s Tumski’s most beautiful and a nd iconic structures, thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase, this curious sanctuary is actually ac tually two churches in one. Split over two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows of the Church of St. Bartholomew beneath the soaring windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross. The first two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in all of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act of reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus of Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy Cross, however today it can be seen on display in the National Museum. Standing outside the church is a large sculpture of John of Nepomuk dating from 1732. QC-2, Plac Kościelny, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74. Upper level closed; lower level open during mass only. o nly. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

Lamplighter has to be one of the world’s most charmingly antiquated, unique and romantic occupations, right up there with town crier, court jester, lighthouse keeper, castle drawbridge operator and… well, IYP editor, of course. Up until and even throughout the 19th century, when candle or gas streetlamps st reetlamps were still the norm, lamplighter was a prolific and wellrespected job. In those pre-Edison days it was the lamplighter’s job to go around town at dusk igniting a city’s streetlamps, and then extinguishing them again at dawn; while on patrol, the lamplighter often served a dual role as town watchman. Today Today having a degree in lamplighting won’t won’t do much for your CV; in fact, to our knowledge, Wrocław Wrocław is one of only two t wo cities in Europe that still employs a lamplighter (the other being Brest, Belarus). The first gas lantern was lit in Wrocław in 1846 and gas streetlamps were common throughout the city cit y even after the war and up until the 1960s when they were replaced in the Old Town. Fortunately those on Ostrów Tumski Tumski – Wrocław’s Cathedral Island – survived modernisation and the tradition of the Wrocław lamplighter is carried on to this day. 365 days a year this gentleman can be seen at dusk in his unique cape and top hat lighting the 103 gas lamps in the district. With a butane cartridge discreetly hidden under his cloak, the lamplighter uses a pole to ignite the lamps and a hook attachment to extinguish them each morning. Catching him in the jolly act is not only easy to do if you’re exploring the area in the evening, but also a prerequisite for camera-wielding tourists. January - April 2016

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Ostrów Tumski CATHEDRAL CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST One of Wrocław’s most enduring icons, the elegant double-spires of this Gothic building stands like a sentinels at the end of ul. Katedralna, and its elaborate portal one of the most valuable medieval artefacts in Wrocław. What we see today is in fact the fourth church to be built on this site. When construction began in 1244, this was the first brick building in Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued for five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing the Virgin Mary having a nap. You’ll also see the largest organ in Poland, which prior to the war was also the largest in the world. The real highlight of the Cathedral, however, is the panoramic view from one of its towers, which can be yours for 5zł during the warm months (weather dependent); unlike the arduous climbs required for Wrocław’s other church towers, here an elevator takes you to the top where you’ll find a small exhibition in addition to the wonderful views. QD-2, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.katedra. archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 09:45 - 17:30, Sun 14:00 16:00. No visiting during mass please.

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

© efektstudio80, Dollar Photo Club

EAT & DRINK CAFETERIE CHIC  This might just be the quintessential quintessential Wrocław Wrocław café. Search for it (which you must, it is well-disguised) near the Church of the Holy Cross on Ostrów Tumski, and enter a world of marbled floors, tiny little tables, period lamps and the dreamiest apple pie with raspberry sauce in Poland. Popular with ladies of a certain age who have little to do except visit cafes and eat what they would call ‘naughty’ cakes, it’s nonetheless one of our favourite places in i n Wrocław. Wrocław.QC-2, ul. Katedralna 6, tel. (+48) 71 327 13 55, www.hotel-jp2.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00. G LWIA BRAMA One of the few places you’ll actually find anything to eat if you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Tumski, Lwia Brama offers some great sidewalk seating in the warmer months from which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for the lamplighter to come round and perform that most romantic of Wrocław rituals - the daily lighting of the district’s gaslamps. In winter the historic underground cellars aren’t as cold and sprawling as you might expect, and they also serve as a gallery for local artists (all paintings are for sale). The menu here sticks to Polish and European standards, with some dishes prepared in the sous-vide method.QC-2, ul. Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 880 00 27 42, www.lwiabrama.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (26-69zł). GSW 66  Wrocław In Your Pocket

ST. ST. GILES CHURCH Built in the 13th century, this is the only church in Wrocław Wrocław to have survived the Tatar invasions and is today the oldest active church in the city. QC-2, ul. Św. Idziego. Open during mass only. ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM  To  To the right of the Cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese Museum, a do-it-yourself museum that throws rooms full of religious art at you and you’re left to decide for yourself what to make of it. Much of the art is recent - the work of local religious orders, but the largest room is filled with invaluable medieval works from around Poland. Art historians will no doubt find plenty of interest.QD-2, Pl. Katedralny 16, tel. (+48) 71 327 11 78, www.muzeum. archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10zł. N NATURAL NATURAL HISTORY HI STORY MUSEUM Halls full of massive skeletons, stuffed animal corpses posed on fake landscapes, butterflies pinned to boards all natural history museums are gloomy places and this is no exception. The collection was founded as part of the University of Wrocław in 1811 and moved to its own building in 1906. The entire collection was destroyed in World War II, but has been replaced since and now numbers about three million animals and half a million plants. You won’t find much info in English, but for bio-buffs it’s the Latin that matters, right? Four permanent exhibits in total - World of Plants, World of Animals, Insects & Humans, and lastly, the recently renovated Skeletal System exhibit. QD-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 21, tel. (+48) 71 375 41 45, www. muzeum-przyrodnicze.uni.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł. N wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Centennial Hall & Parks

Once you’ve finished ogling the Old Town and Ostrów  Tumski, there’s one more distric dist rictt of this fine city that visitors will be poorer heading home without having seen. Just east of the city centre lie a clutch of outdoor attractions surrounding Szczynicki Park and the Centennial Exhibition Complex, including Wrocław’s only UNESCO site, the country’s oldest zoo, the Japanese Garden and the city’s latest ‘tell-me-that-you-loveme’ tourist lure, the Pergola Fountain. Intended as a city showpiece since its creation, the area east of the Odra long held a somewhat lukewarm public standing thanks to dubious historical connotations and debatable aesthetic appeal; however recent renovations, the UNESCO nod and the addition of the magnificent multimedia fountain (operating May-October) have made it a favourite place of locals and cemented its place as a Wrocław must-see. WROCŁAW ZOO Cross the picturesque Zwierzyniecki Bridge and you find yourself immediately alongside the cagey enclosure of the Wrocław Zoological Gardens. A product of the city’s dynamic development in the late 19th century, Wrocław’s zoo dates back to 1865 (celebrating 150 years in 2015!) and became the oldest in the country when Poland inherited it after World War II. Suffering severe wartime damage, many of the zoo’s elegant historic buildings were reconstructed and can be found in the southern part of the park; also don’t miss the splendid Soviet-era neon sign at the entrance. Brand-new to the zoo is the impressive African aquarium complex - or ‘Afrykarium ’ - three levels of exhibits focussed on the facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

diverse water environments of Africa, including hippos, sharks, manatees, crocodiles, penguins (in Africa? Who knew?) and more. With over 12,000 critters of some 1,100 different species, the zoo is one of Wrocław’s most visited attractions (don’t be surprised by long entry queues on sunny weekends) and also provides foreigners with an opportunity to pick up a few phrases from one of the only Polish-speaking macaws in the world. QI-4, ul. Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 348 30 24, www.zoo. wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From April 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 40/30zł. A family ticket (valid for up to 2 adults, 3 kids) is also available for 120zł (Mon 80zł).

Photo by Janusz Krzeszkowski 

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Centennial Hall & Parks CENTENNIAL HALL & DISCOVERY CENTRE With Wrocław developing rapidly in the late 19th century it was determined that the city required an exhibition hall and the hundred year anniversary of Napoleon’s defeat at the Battle of Leipzig (1813) was deemed a timely occasion for an expensive, over-the-top exhibition hall that would figuratively flex the architectural muscle of the German Nation. Max Berg, who had been appointed as official city architect in 1909, quickly set about designing his career-piece, and (what-do-ya-know?) his proposal was chosen over 42 others by city council despite abject objection from almost everyone who laid eyes on the design, which resembled a colossal concrete hatbox and would cost an enormous 1.9 million Reichmarks. Teaming with eminent architect Hans Poelzig, the two personally oversaw the project which was completed in 1913 and has endured to become hailed as one of the most important architectural monuments of the early 20th century. With an inner diameter of 69 metres, a height of 42 metres and a 10,000 person capacity, the Jahrhunderthalle (as it was then called) became the highest structure of its type in the world; that type being a gigantic multi-purpose structure of radial reinforced concrete ribs unlike anything the world had ever seen. Though routinely left off lists of the world’s most attractive buildings, one thing is undeniable: the Centennial Hall is an engineering marvel. IGLICA �SPIRE� Leaving the animal house antics of the zoo, turn onto ulica Wystawowa (Exhibition Street) and you’ll soon find yourself staring down the Centennial Hall promenade, including the ivy-covered columns leading to the towering ‘Iglica’ monument and with monolithic Centennial Hall behind it.  The iconic 96 metre tall steel spire was erected on the Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948 as part of the propagandic ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition.’ Meant to symbolise the soaring achievements of the country’s newly acquired western territories since they were ‘returned’ to Communist Poland, like many of the Party’s ideas, this one quickly went wrong. Originally 106 metres, Iglica’s peak was adorned with a spinning contraption of mirrors which would create a dazzling ‘umbrella of light’ at night. The apparatus was ominously struck by lightning only hours after completion with much of it crashing to the ground in dazzling catastrophe; the remaining dangling bits posed quite a hazard to the expected thousands who would attend the exhibition. To the rescue came two college students who were part of a climbing club and volunteered to dismantle the top of the structure for free after the military proved unable to sort the situation due to the inclement weather. weather. Scaling the Iglica took 24 hours and 15 minutes, dismantling it another six, but the boys succeeded in becoming heroes of the enormous media spectacle. In 1964, the spire was reduced by 10 metres for safety reasons. During Martial Law, another daredevil climbed the tower and attached a Solidarity flag to its zenith. Today the ugly ribbed structure continues to stand outside Centennial Hall and is probably one of the tallest pieces of useless bolted metal in the world. QI-4, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1. 68  Wrocław In Your Pocket

Building a structure of such size out of steel and concrete was both revolutionary and extremely daring; in fact the workers that helped build the behemoth were afraid to go inside, so certain were they of its eventual collapse. On the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably survived two world wars and hosted countless large scale events including monumental operas, concerts and sporting events. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies and Pope John Paul II held services during his famous visit in 1997. Renamed ‘Hala Ludowa’ (the People’s Hall) following World War II, the structure and surrounding grounds were the site of the People’s Republic of Poland’s ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition’- the most expensive and publicised propaganda event in the history histor y of Poland. Added to the UNESCO World World Heritage List in 2006, until its total renovation in 2010, the Centennial Hall complex hadn’t really lived up to its reputation for locals and tourists alike, with busloads of the latter often standing in front of the concrete monstrosity wondering how difficult it would be to get the pants they’re wearing to qualification for the once exclusive list.

wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Centennial Hall & Parks However, that’s no longer the case; Centennial Hall has been scrubbed clean and features an interior exhibit that not only transforms the structure from a dubious photoop to a bona fide tourist attraction, but also does much to explain and justify its reputation as a modern architectural masterpiece. Known as the Discovery Centre  (Centrum Poznawcze), this exhibition gives visitors an overview of Centennial Hall’s construction, its history and its place in the pantheon of modern architecture. Most of the information is conveyed via nifty touch-screen displays covering topics as varied as Breslau architects, skyscrapers, various world exhibitions, Polish UNESCO sites, and a lot more related to architecture and Wrocław specifically. In addition to the permanent exhibit, Discovery Centre includes a gallery for temporary exhibitions and the option of a light and sound show under the dome. Using video-mapping technology, the dome of the Hall comes to life with a stunningly complex light show that emphasises the uniqueness of the structure and is creatively choreographed to original music. Between the light show, the computerised displays of the permanent exhibit and the adjacent Wrocław Fountain - there is some serious multimedia wizardry in this corner of town that is sure to delight architect buffs and technophiles alike. Despite its size (the permanent exhibition only covers two small rooms), there is much to learn and discover, so allot almost two hours for your visit.QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 50, www.halastulecia.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed the first Monday of every month. Admission 12/9zł, permanent exhibit plus gallery 14/11zł, permanent exhibit plus gallery and light show 19/15zł. PERGOLA ICE RINK  Just left of Centennial Hall’s main entrance you’ll find the ‘Pergola’ - a colossal, semi-circular colonnade winding around one of the city’s most popular attractions - the multimedia fountain. Though the fountain is shut down for the season, in winter part of the space is transformed into a 900m2 outdoor outdoor ice rink. Pay once and you get unlimited ice time, but note that

GETTING THERE

 The easiest way to reach the Centennial Exhibition Complex is via public transport. t ransport. Tram 10 can be caught from the ‘Rynek’ (A-3), ‘Świdnicka’ (A-4) and ‘Galeria Dominikańska’ (C-4) stops, or take buses 145 or 146 east from the train station (B-5), getting off at ‘Hala Stulecia.’  The area is also easily accessible by car, with parking available right in front of Centennial Hall. CENTENNIAL HALL PARKING Above- and underground ground guarded parking for nearly 800 passenger cars and 20 buses, right in front of Centennial Hall, within easy walking distance of the Zoo, Wrocław Fountain and Japanese Gardens.QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1 (entrance from ul. Kopernika), tel. (+48) 71 346 14 22, www.parkinghalastulecia.pl.

once you leave you have to pay all over again if you want to return. Oh, and if you didn’t pack skates on your holiday, you’ll need an outrageous 200zł cash deposit to rent them (plus 6zł for the actual use of the skates).QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 50 56, www.halastulecia.pl. www.halastulecia.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00 with 1hr maintenance breaks at 15:00 and 19:00. Closed from mid-March. Admission 8/5zł.

EAT & DRINK PERGOLA RESTAURANT RESTAURANT  The renova renovatio tionn of of Cent Centenn ennial ial Hall Hall incl include udedd the the opening opening of Pergola: a modern restaurant and cafe with two separate dining areas, entrances, kitchens and menus. Though in winter the cafe side closes down, you can still watch the local ice queens taking their twirls on the seasonal ice rink just beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows of the restaurant proper. Pergola features swanky booths, a propane fireplace and the type of table settings that include starched white napkin origami and wine glasses.  The extensiv extensivee menu menu ranges ranges from from plebian plebian pizza pizza and pierogi pierogi to pricey steaks, and since it’s one of the only places to eat within a very tourist-trodden area of one-kilometre or so, you can expect it to be plenty busy.QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 50 22, www.restauracja-pergola.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. (15-69zł). TUGSW facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

Inside the Church of St. John of Nepomuk

Photo: B. Maliszewska

SZCZYTNICKI PARK  A stroll beyond the Pergola colonnades put you in Szczytnicki Park, the oldest and largest recreation space in the city. Covering 115 hectares and laid out in 1785, the once well-groomed former estate park suffered devastation during the Napoleonic Wars and WWII and today largely resembles a natural landscape within the city borders. While there, keep your eyes peeled for the small Church of St. John of Nepomuk   - a marvellous 14th century wooden church moved to the park from the Opole region and miraculously undamaged during the war.QI-3/4. January - April 2016

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Jewish Wrocław

Wrocław’s Jewish community is one of the oldest in today’s Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though consistently confronted with persecution, Jews have steadily played a role in the development of the city. By the end of the 19th century, in fact, the Jewish community was so well integrated into Breslau society that many Jews had achieved leading positions in academic and scientific circles; at the time, these men were not considered any less German than they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was then known) possessed the second largest synagogue in Germany and its Jewish community was the third largest in the country with numbers that had risen to 30,000 by the time Hitler came to power. power. It doesn’t require much detail from us to know what befell Breslau’s wartime Jewish population. The city’s once magnificent main synagogue - torched on Kristallnacht (November 9, 1938) - says enough, with only a small memorial remembering where it once stood at ul. Łąkowa 6 (A-4). What less people are aware of is that after the war when German Breslau became Polish Wrocław, the city’s Jewish population actually increased dramatically beyond its pre-war levels as the city accepted some 70,000 Jews displaced by the war many from the Soviet Union. Ironically I ronically,, Wrocław’s Jewish population reached its peak immediately after WWII; however, the anti-minority politics of the Soviet Union slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced out of Poland completely by 1968. Since the fall of the Soviet Union that number has been resurgent again and today there are some 1,000 Jews living in Wrocław, Wrocław, part of 70  Wrocław In Your Pocket

a gradual transition from tracing the past to plotting the future which culminated in May 2010 with the symbolic reopening of the White Stork Synagogue. NEW JEWISH CEMETERY Located northwest of the centre, the New Jewish Cemetery was founded in 1902 when the Ślężna Street cemetery became too small, and is still in use by Wrocław’s Jewish community today. That hasn’t saved it from the ravages of time however, however, and like the cemetery it succeeded, it stands in sharp contrast to the well-kept Catholic cemeteries across Poland. Comprising 11 hectares and approximately 8,000 graves, this is the fifth largest Jewish cemetery in Poland, and as such carries an even more powerful aura of secret beauty among its maze of ivy-coved headstones and crumbling vaults. Likewise registered as an historical monument for its rich diversity of aesthetic and architectural styles, the most noteworthy tomb here is dedicated to the Jewish soldiers of the German Army who fought and died in WWI; their 432 names are etched into the top of the monument. The cemetery is currently the subject of slow renovation work and is only open to the public from mid-April to mid-November , on Wednesdays (14:00 - 17:00) and Sundays (09:00 - 13:00), with parts of the cemetery cordoned off altogether. Still, about 80% (this place is huge, remember) is accessible, with about 50% having already undergone restoration. We advise that you contact the Jewish Information Centre / CIŻ Cafe for updated information. To get there catch trams 10, 33, 20 or 3 from Pl.Jana Pawła II and get off at ‘DH Astra;’ it’s about a 12min ride. Qul. Lotnicza 51 (Fabryczna), www. wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Admission 8zł. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Wrocław OLD JEWISH CEMETERY Established in 1856, this 4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps the most well-preserved testament to the former strength of Breslau’s pre-war Jewish community, with over 1200 gravestones. Closed in 1942, the cemetery quickly fell into deep neglect: in 1945 it was turned into a fortress by the Nazis and saw fierce fighting as evidenced by the eerie bullet holes in many of the gravestones. Preservation began in the 1970s and in 1991 it was opened as the Museum of Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to the craftsmanship of its sepulchral art. Indeed the beauty and diversity of styles and symbols on display is perhaps unmatched anywhere. Many noteworthy figures are buried here, including the renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the historian Heinrich Graetz (author of the first complete history of the Jews), Clara Immerwahl (first female PhD student at the University of Breslau, and wife of Fritz Haber, who committed suicide in objection to her husband’s work developing chemical warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader of the first labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and the parents of Edith Stein; using old records some of their tombstones are slowly being restored. However, despite these modest efforts the Ślężna Street Cemetery remains a completely mysterious and evocative sanctuary of decaying vine-covered monuments, the broken pieces of which are stacked against each other, giving shelter to stray cats and shade to wildflowers. Well worth a visit, a highly informative accompanying booklet (in Polish, English or German) makes it even more so, despite being overpriced at 15zł.QE/F-7, ul. Ślężna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04, www.mmw.pl. Open 09:00 till dusk. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free.

that members of the Jewish community were rounded up for deployment to the death camps during WWII. Badly damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only to its proximity to residential buildings), the synagogue was literally left to rot after the war, before the Jewish community was finally able to recover it from the Polish government in 1996 and initiate restoration. Re-opened in May 2010, the synagogue now serves as a worship space, cultural centre and branch of the Jewish Information Centre, with a new multi-functional hall in the synagogue’s basement and two exhibition spaces on the balconies. One houses a permanent exhibition about the History of Jews in Wrocław and Lower Silesia, while the second balcony is for temporary exhibitions. Guided tours takes place every Sunday at 11:00 in Polish (10/5zł) and at 13:00 in English (20/10zł). QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 7, tel. (+48) 504 90 53 58, www.wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 -16:00. Closed Sat. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.

TOURS & INFORMA INFORMATION TION

THE WHITE STORK SYNAGOGUE  The only synagogue in Wrocław to escape the torches of Kristallnacht, the White Stork was built in 1829, taking its name from the inn that once stood in its place. Following the design of prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand Langhans, it is ironically considered a sterling example of 18th century Protestant sacral art. Discreetly hidden from view in a courtyard between ul. Antoniego and ul. Włodkowica, today the surrounding grounds are full of beer gardens, bohemians and tourists; touris ts; however it was here facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

CIŻ CAFE After renovations, the Jewish Information Centre has reopened as CIŻ Cafe - a kosher coffeehouse, bookshop and tourist info centre. In addition to being a new venue for Jewish-related lectures, workshops and other events, this outfit also arranges Jewish walking tours of Wrocław. While you’re there enjoy coffee, tea, cakes and muffins. Q E-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 787 39 02, www.wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 until dusk, Sat 17:00 - 22:00. GW THE BENTE KAHAN K AHAN FOUNDATION FOUNDATION Founded in 2006 to accomplish the renovation of the Synagogue, this outfit organises the monthly events that take place there, including exhibitions, film screenings, workshops, lectures, language courses, concerts, theatre performances and more. For info about Jewish events in Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) Wrocław, start here.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 71 782 81 23, www.fbk.org.pl. January - April 2016

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Leisure

 Thoug  Thoughh skirt-wa skirt-watch tching ing and spirit spirit-si -sippi pping ng in the city’ city’s cafés cafés and bars is perhaps the most popular local leisure activity, our Leisure section is more designed to help you get out and make the most of a sunny day, or stay active during a dreary one. Known as one of Poland’s greenest cities, Wrocław offers plenty of recreation opportunities on top of its great architecture, nightlife and culture. With a scenic location on the Odra River and its many tributaries, the city boasts copious kilometres of river boulevards and bike lanes, as well as centrally located parks. Whatever your interest, the area has something to offer you, so use the listings below to stay active in every season.

BOWLING & BILLIARDS SEZAM Just off the main square, this billiards bar covers 600m2 with 17 professional pool tables, one professional snooker table and plenty of beer and spirits.QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 71 344 85 46, www.sezambilard.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. 10-26zł/h. SKYBOWLING Full of shiny surfaces, planetary paintings and a unique colour changing ceiling, this enormous, new state-of-theart bowling alley on the 2nd floor of Sky Tower features 24 lanes, plus a restaurant/bar and VIP room. Pricing is quite complex and depends on the time of day and day of the week, ranging from 20zł Monday mornings to 90zł Friday nights per lane for an hour of play (shoe rental included). QE-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky Tower), tel. (+48) 71 712 83 33, www.skybowling.pl. Open 08:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 72  Wrocław In Your Pocket

ICE SKATING PERGOLA ICE RINK  Wrocław’s best outdoor ice rink, this year the Wrocław Fountain has once again been converted into a 900 square metre(!) ice patch, and shall remain so until mid-March. mid-M arch. Note that there is a one-off one- off entrance fee which gives you unlimited time as long as you remain on the ice; if you leave you have to pay all over again.QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 50 56, www.halastulecia.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, with 1hr maintanance breaks at 15:00 and 19:00. Admission 8/5zł. Skate hire 6zł/hr (plus a crazy 200zł deposit!). WROCŁAW STADIUM STADIUM ICE RINK  Located just north-west of the city centre, Wrocław’s impressive stadium was raised in the build-up to the Euro 2012 football championships. In the deep winter (December until end of February) the grass gives way to the city’s largest ice floe. Public ice time is weekdays 15:00 22:00, weekends 09:00 - 22:00 (note that the ice is cleaned from 13:00 - 14:00). Admission is 9/8zł/hr and skate rental is an additional 6zł. Get there easily via trams 10 and 20.QAl. Śląska 1, tel. (+48) 71 776 80 00.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS BOBOLANDIA Located just north of the city centre, Bobolandia is the largest family amusement centre in Poland, offering 3000 square metres of fun and attractions. Pretty much every kid’s dream, this family funhouse includes all kinds of plush p lush and inflatable play areas and jungle gyms, trampolines, ball pits, slides, sandboxes and more, plus pool tables, air wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Leisure hockey and arcade games. There’s also a restaurant. As you could probably spend all day here (and your child will no doubt want to), tickets are sold at a flat day rate of 29zł per kid on weekdays (19zł if you arrive after 17:00), 32zł per kid on weekends (21zł after 17:00). The nice part is adults only pay 5zł and are likely to have a great time also. Qul. Jana Długosza 59-75 (Psie Pole), tel. (+48) 71 793 77 44, www.bobolandia.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. NEW EXIT ROOM  Think you can escape from from a locked, puzzle-filled room room in 60 minutes using only your wits? Escape games have gotten rather popular of late as a more intellectual alternative to say - bowling or billiards, so grab a few friends, take a deep breath, and put your collective problem-solving skills to the test as the timer ticks down to your demise. You You can choose from one of four themed rooms: Saw, Cube, Sexmission (named after the Polish cult film), and Paranormal. QA-3, Rynek 2/4, tel. (+48) 790 36 97 96, www.exitroom.pl. Open 13:15 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:15 - 21:00. KWATERA GŁÓWNA Organised laser tag in a specially designed maze arena for 2-10 person groups. Reservations recommended.QC-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 8a, tel. (+48) 531 63 80 00, www. kwateraglowna.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. 40zł per person per hour.

SWIMMING WROCŁAW AQUAPARK 

Completed in 2008, Wrocław’s water park is easily one of the finest in the country and makes for a nice respite from the city’s confoundingly complex history and highminded cultural attractions. And it’s probably the only place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip to Wrocław. While the main attractions are surely the indoor and outdoor recreational swimming pools with their water slides (including the most recent addition - a multimedia slide involving lights and music to distract you as you plummet), wave machines, ‘lazy river’ and other wonders, a fitness centre, restaurant, cafe, bar and shop are also on hand, making a trip to the Aqua Park a full day’s outing, just south of the train station. From the city centre you can take trams 8, 9, 15, 31 or 32, and bus numbers 113, 145, 146 or 612. QF-6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71 771 15 11, www.aquapark.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 23:00. Fitness Centre, saunas and sport pool all have independent hours. Check the website for exact times. Admission 19/17zł per hour, 49/39zł for a day pass on weekdays; 22/18zł per hour, 55/45zł for a day pass on weekends.

SPA & BEAUTY CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical and mental tension, strengthen the immune system, improve joint flexibility and remove toxins from your body with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple Temple in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Note that reception is only open until 20:00.QA-3, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 667 75 53 87, www.tajskimasaz.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. Massages 120-300zł.

GUEST ROOMS, APARTMENT , HOSTEL Te Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.

vine.co/inyourpocket MONOPOL SPA & WELLNESS CENTRE Descend beneath the grandeur of the Monopol hotel to find one of the city’s premier spa and wellness centres including a gym, counter-current swimming pool, fountain and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy steam bath and salt and iodine cave. Massages, face and body treatments are also available.QA-4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50, www.monopolwroclaw. hotel.com.pl. Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness Centre Centre 06:00 - 22:00. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław  tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl e-mail: [email protected]

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Shopping

Retail opportunities have come a long way since the days of queuing around the corner for the off-chance of buying a crust of bread. Today Wrocław’s shopfronts are stocked with everything you’d expect to find in a cosmopolitan metropolis, with bountiful pedestrian shopping opportunities around the market square, ulica Świdnicka and ulica Oławska. Odrzańska, Kiełbaśnicza and Mikołaja streets are home to upmarket boutiques and galleries, while the popular Jatki (A-2) is k nown for its row of artisan galleries and souvenir stalls. For familiar international labels and big brands, look no further than one of Wrocław’s glistening new shopping malls - there are no less than five  comfortably within the city centre. Lastly, don’t miss visiting Hala Targowa  (C-2) for a truly Polish cultural experience while catching a bargain. As this is PL, remember most shops close early on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether.

 ALCOHOL & TOBACCO TOBACCO OLD HAVANA HAVANA CIGAR SHOP SH OP & LOUNGE  This small shop offers hundreds of cigars from Cuba and elsewhere, cutters, fancy ashtrays and other accessories, plus a wide variety of whiskies, rum, wine, port and cognacs. The staff is very knowledgeable and happy to help you make a decision, or why not stay and sample the selection on-site? Well versed in the finer things in life, they also have great coffee. QA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 790 80 22 81. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 74 

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PIWOCZAS A convenience store for beer connoisseurs, here you can deliberate over your decision as long as you like, and take as many beers home with you as you can fit under your arm (or in your suitcase). There are over 600 choice brews from Poland and abroad, and they stay open late on the weekends so you can have a nightcap in your room when the bars wear you out. Second location at ul. Tęczowa 22 (E-4). QE-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 27/29, tel. (+48) 506 16 28 42, www. piwoczas.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.

 AMBER & JEWELLER JEWELLERY Y Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in i n Poland. Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. GALERIA SCHUBERT Located in the Town Town Hall, World of Amber has an impressive and reasonably priced array of amber-themed jewellery and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they also offer other precious stones and metals and took a page out of the Bohemian book with a small section of crystal-ware. If amber is on your Wroclaw to-do list, Schubert will do nicely without killing your travel budget or drawing you away from the heart of the city.QB-3, Rynek-Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48) 71 343 95 51. Open 09:00 - 19:00. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Shopping  ART & ANTIQUES ANTIQUES Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and you’ll find no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocław. Wrocław. As you walk about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with the inscrip in scriptions tions ‘Antyki, Antyk i,’‘Antykwariat’ ‘Antykwariat ’ and ‘Starocie’ (junk); ul. Kiełbaśnicza (A-3) is a good place to start. Knowledgeable dealers offer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value out of the country, you’ll have to get some papers in order first. Most proper dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to check before opening your wallet. For artisan galleries in Wrocław, head straight to ul. Jatki (A-2). In addition to being Wrocław’s oldest, most narrow, and most charming street, this row of former medieval butcher stalls is today home to numerous artist studios and galleries. For non-commercial art gallery listings, visit our Culture section. ANTYKI PRZY SZEWSKIEJ A very professional and absolutely gorgeous antique shop uniquely located under the Gothic arches of St. Mary Magdalene’s Church. With over 5000 items for sale from all over the world - including furniture, furniture, lamps, paintings, paintings, graphics, porcelain, glass silver and more - it’s also the largest antiques salon in Wrocław. All items also available for sale online - visit the website.QB-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 71 341 81 84, www.antykiszewska.pl. Open 14:00 - 19 00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. INNY ŚWIAT W PIWNICZCE GOTYCKIEJ 76 square metres of art and antiques from all over the world located in a Gothic brick cellar. The extensive collection includes a large range of silver, porcelain, Art Nouveau glass, Art Deco furniture, Polish and German graphics, paintings 3 44 and sculpture.QA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 61 03. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:15 - 15:00. Closed Sun. POLISH POSTER GALLERY Poland has a proud tradition of graphic art design for film and theatre, which has basically developed into its own genre. This fantastic gallery is the place to check it out by browsing through binders full of hundreds of designs, many of them in stock and others available to order. Find alternative film posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks, plus amazing propaganda and theatre posters. A great place for souvenirs and gifts, if you aren’t into travelling with a poster tube, check out the amazing postcard collection. Anyone who appreciates graphic art will be glad to discover this place; recommended.QE-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, www. polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

@WroclawIYP facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

POLISH VODKA 

 The Poles have been producing producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill skil l into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below. WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit  juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice. KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ January - April 2016

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Shopping MARKETS HALA TARGOWA

SHOPIQ If you’re interested in checking out some local art and supporting the local scene, drop by this very cool gallery full of graphics, photos, illustrations, screenprints, paintings and more by local artists. ar tists. They also have quite an assortment of new and used records to peruse, which you can trade for your own if you happened to leave home with some of your least essential es sential records in your suitcase.QE-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 28, tel. (+48) 512 48 22 94, www. shopiq.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM Designed by Max Berg, the same innovative concrete engineer behind Wrocław’s UNESCO-listed Centennial Hall, this unique market hall has a handsome, traditional-looking facade, while the interior is a concrete cathedral of elliptical arches. Worth a look from an architectural, cultural and practical standpoint, in Hala Targowa you’ll find earnest locals hawking top quality fruit and vegetables on the t he ground floor, floor, as well as a wide selection of local cheese, salami and hams. Upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon underwear and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. To your right as you enter the market is one of the city’s best little no-name, no-fuss pierogi bars. Essential. Es sential.QC-2, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 31. Open 08:00 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PLAC TARGOWY TARGOWY ŚWIEBODZKI ŚWIEBOD ZKI If you want a real cultural adventure that you’ll remember for a long, long time, head to the no-man’ssland behind the Świebodzki train station on a Sunday afternoon and check out this unbelievable open-air flea market sprawling endlessly west over the train tracks. A truly mind-blowing scene, the size and scope of this market is almost hard to comprehend; from the main entrance near Plac Orląt Lwowskich it unfolds through an endless maze of blue and white striped tents, before devolving into acres of rubbish laid out on dirty blankets over the train tracks or the t he muddy, barren earth. Here you can buy literally anything under the sun at prices about 50% lower than those you might expect to find anywhere so audacious as to have a floor or a roof. Some of it is perfectly legit, of course, some of it quite dodgy, and most of it complete rubbish. We’re not mentioning it for the shopping though; amateur photographers and cultural anthropologists will have a field day here. Surprisingly close to the market square, get there while you can, because the city authorities intend to eliminate this ‘blemish which spoils the image of the city.’QE-4, ul. Robotnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 717 12 54. Open on Sundays only; working hours vary, but most vendors arrive before 08:00 and are packing up by 15:00. 76  Wrocław In Your Pocket

DE’ MOLIKA  The closest thing thing in Wrocław to the indie indie record record store you’ve always wanted to open. Run by two devoted owners, this tiny shop has all the new and vintage vinyl you won’t find in the ‘megastores,’ plus tonnes of CDs.QB-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48) 71 346 89 26. Open 11:00 - 19:00, 19:0 0, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. EMPIK MEGASTORE  This massive store selling books, music, movies, video games, coffee, greeting cards and more, also has the best selection of foreign papers and magazines in town, though you can expect to pay a hefty mark-up for the privilege. Dictionaries, phrase books, maps and a limited English language fiction section are also inside. Other locations in Magnolia Park, Pasaż Grunwaldzki and Renoma (see Shopping Malls).QB-3, Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 695 73 07 24, www.empik.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

youtube.com/inyourpocket TAJNE KOMPLETY Wrocław’s finest bookstore, located right in the Town Hall. With a bit of an alternative bent, and a surprisingly good English language selection, Tajny Komplety is the kind of place you could spend the entire day nosing through comics, art books and even vinyl records. It twins as a cafe, so don’t expect to be the only one there taking advantage of the free wifi, coffee, tea, cakes and more.QB-3, Przejście Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71 714 23 80, www. tajnekomplety.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. WINYLOVE Under the arcades near Plac Kościuszki, this vinyl retailer is actually located on the half-floor above/inside the Pod Arkadami bookstore (not much of an English section, but go ahead and ask them to show you). Find crates of used records at good prices and there’s even a record player where you can actually listen before buying.QA-5, ul. Świdnicka 49, tel. (+48) 796 46 68 12, www.winylove. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Shopping FASHION & ACCESSORIES FU�KU Located Located inside Galeria Na Czystej Cz ystej - a small modern building hidden behind the Renoma shopping mall - you’ll find one of Wrocław’s best swag shops for the fashionable young urbanite. Peruse the piles and racks of fannypacks, handbags made from vinyl records, LEGO earrings, zipper jewellery, asymmetrical sweaters and so much more - all of it totally trendy, hip, hand-made and designed in Poland. Second location inside Sky Tower (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 95, E-6). QB-5, ul. Czysta 4, tel. (+48) 795 27 88 39, www.fu-ku.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. MOHER VINTAGE & DESIGN Located in a highly enviable retail space just off the market square down ul. Więzienna, this large and beautiful boutique/’concept store’ features upscale vintage clothing, designer shoes, signature furnishings, hip fashion accessories and more. Come to browse the racks, stay for a coffee, conversation and style tips from the fashionable young ladies working here.QB-3, ul. Igielna 14/15 (entrance from ul. Więzienna), tel. (+48) 71 341 80 77, www.moher.com. pl. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. UBIERALNIA  This small shop on one of Wrocław’s most engaging streets sells high-quality women’s fashion and accessories by top young local designers. Girlfriends love it.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 19, tel. (+48) 508 10 78 73, www.ubieralnia. pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD & SWEETS CUKIER LUKIER Despite being very, very, way too similar to Słodkie Czary Mary, this adorable little sweets shop will still seem just as much like Wonkaville to your adorable little ones. Filled with handmade candies, suckers, and plenty of handsomely wrapped gift packages, candy-making demonstrations take place regularly at 11:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00 MonFri; every hour on the hour from 11:00-17:00 on weekends. QA-2, ul. Odrzańska 8/1, tel. (+48) 505 45 11 41, www. cukierlukier.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. SŁODKIE CZARY MARY A small, charming hand-made sweets shop on the Rynek, where you watch the candy being made right before your eyes. Most of the interior is occupied by the long work counter where young ladies are busy rolling out the colourful candies that cover the shop shelves as children and their parents watch in wonder. Proper candy-making demonstrations are conducted at 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00 weekdays, and every ever y hour from 12:00-17:00 on weekends. Not only a great local gift idea, but a unique experience for children, choose from a range of reasonably-priced lollipops and hard candies that come in dozens of flavours from rhubarb to whiskey-cola.QB-3, Rynek Ratusz 27, tel. (+48) 601 46 15 61, www.slodkieczarymary. pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

Gifts & Souvenirs Geschenke Regalos Подарки

RYNEK RY NEK 3 MAIN SQUARE WROCŁAW January - April 2016

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Shopping GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIA For over 55 years, this well-recognised company has been promoting and preserving Polish folk art and handicrafts with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings, knitwork, wickery and much more. A lot of it’s touristy rubbish, but we’ve always fancied the folk costumes (our birthday’s coming up). This shop is huge and seamlessly conjoined to a folk art gallery. Also at ul. Wita Stwosza 55 (B-3).QB-2, Pl. Biskupa Nankiera 5/6/7, tel. (+48) 71 343 59 79, www. cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. WROCŁAW SOUVENIRS Large and perfectly placed on the market square, it’s no surprise that this is one of the longest-running and most successful souvenir shops in town. With all manner of local Wrocław and Polish souvenirs, including an impressive collection of amber and other jewellery, gnome figurines, photo albums, t-shirts, bags, magnets, mugs, keychains, postcards, paintings and more, there’s even a couch for taking a rest when all those shopping bags start weighing you down. QA-3, Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 74. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 18:00. VENA POTTERY �GALERIA VENA� If you aren’t familiar with the universallyloved Bolesławiec style of Polish ceramic, which hails from a little town not far to the west of Wrocław, then make sure you drop into this shop on the market square and educate yourself. Hand-painted in traditional folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not only looks unique and beautiful, but is also practical for everyday use. This is one of the best collections we’ve we’ve seen anywhere and a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone with a kitchen.QA-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 344 43 70, www. vena-ceramika.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

The Global Blue Card Your Passport to Great Savings, The World Over (more information at gb’s website) 2. In

1. You are a non-EU traveler the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN 3. You export the purchased goods outside of the EU

YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE SHOPPING SERVICE

www.globalblue.com 78 

Wrocław In Your Pocket

SHOPPING MALLS ARKADY WROCŁAWSKIE

One of Wrocław’s most centrally located shopping malls, find Arkady Wrocławskie tucked not far behind the train station. With 110 stores across 30,000 square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail centre include Marks & Spencer, Benetton, H&M, New Yorker, Alma (the country’s upscale grocer) and more. Other diversions you can seek out are the restaurants and cafes, Multikino cinema, cushy children’s playpen and a truly impressive two-storey aquarium. Within walking distance of most places and easily accessed by tram, once you’re inside Arkady Wrocławskie, good luck making your way out again. QA-5, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22, www.arkadywroclawskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. GALERIA DOMINIKAŃSKA Wrocław’s most accessible and well-known retail monolith, Galeria Dominikańska is a mere five minutes east of the Rynek, meaning you’re likely to cross paths with it by accident and you’re probably going to get sucked in. Among the 100 shops (including Zara, Pull & Bear, Max Mara, VAN VAN GRAAF, GRAAF, Media Markt and an iSpot) you’ll also find some restaurants (Pizza Hut, Ohh! Sushi & Grill), a beauty salon (ManiPedi), and we don’t even need to tell you what else because you’re already inside, you’re on an escalator, you’re making eyes with a mannequin, you want to touch everything, taste it, try it on. The guide is going back in your  pocket , the wallet is coming out...QC-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 95 17, www.galeria-dominikanska.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. GALERIA HANDLOWA HANDLOWA SKY TOWER You may have noticed Wrocław has beefed up its skyline, realising the arrival of its first bona fide skyscraper with Sky Tower Tower,, the sparkling 212m three-tiered behemoth you see looming over the city just minutes south of the centre. Comprising a small city in and of itself with residential apartments, office and retail space, the ‘podium’ ‘podium’ level alone boasts three floors full of boutique shops, restaurants, cafes, services and sports facilities. Here you’ll find over 80 top name brands, over a dozen restaurants and cafes, a supermarket, fitness centre and spa, Banda Club - the largest billiards club in the country, a 24-lane bowling alley, and plenty more. The design is flat gorgeous and features an incredible interactive wall gallery on the first floor and a surreal Salvador Dali sculpture outside the front entrance. Park your vehicle in one of the 1500 spots or take trams 7 or 20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’QE-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11, www.galeria.skytower.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

RENOMA One of the largest pre-war department stores in Europe, this magnificent consumer showpiece was added to the Register of Historical Monuments in 1977 and has now been restored and modernised for today’s retail market.  The unique 1930s facade of ceramic tiles and gilded heads has been returned to its former glory while inside you’ll find today’s most cutting-edge brands, plus a third floor restaurant with fine views of the Old Town. Town. Along with the original building’s building’s refurbishment, a new modern wing was added on Plac Czysty. Easily outclassing the city’s other shopping malls and smack in the centre, if it was in our disposition to call a shopping mall a must-see attraction, this would fit the bill. QA-4, ul. Świdnicka 40, tel. (+48) 71 772 58 20, www.renoma-wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

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Directory CURRENCY EXCHANGE Currency exchange offices (‘ Kantor’) are easy to find in Wrocław, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission. KANTORQE-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel. (+48) 71 338 53 65. Open 09:00 - 21:00. KANTORQB-3, ul. Oławska 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 78. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. KANTOR CENT QB-3, ul. Świdnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71 372 35 02, www. centkantor.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

24HR PHARMACIES

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES AUSTRIAQul. Gagarina 34, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl. BULGARIAQAl. Ujazdowskie 33/35, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 629 40 71. DENMARK Qul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk. Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 FRANCE Qul. Piękna 1, Warsaw, 00, www.ambafrance-pl.org.

GERMANYQC-4, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27 00, www.breslau.diplo.de. MEXICOQAl. Jerozolimskie 123A, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 29 00, sre.gob.mx/polonia. NETHERLANDSQul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl. Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525 SLOVAKIAQul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, 81 10, www.mzv.sk/varsava.

KATEDRALNA QD-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71 322 73 15.

Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 89 SWEDENQul. Bagatela 3, Warsaw, 00, www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.

POD LWAMI QA-2, Pl. Jana Pawła II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 24.

Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 622 47 UKRAINEQAl. Szucha 7, Warsaw, 97, poland.mfa.gov.ua.

24HR SHOPS DELIKATESYQA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27.

UNITED KINGDOM Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www. Qul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, gov.uk/government/world/poland.

DELIKATESY 24 QA-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 72, tel. (+48) 71 794 77 68.

DENTISTS

DELIKATESY REWEX QA-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 69, tel. (+48) 71 367 06 81.

BUSINESS ASSOCIA ASSOCIATIONS TIONS BRITISH POLISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QE-4, ul. Legnicka 51-53, tel. (+48) 71 733 13 75, www. bpcc.org.pl. LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QA-4, ul. Świdnicka 39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www. dig.wroc.pl. THE LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF CRAFT QA-3, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71 344 86 91, www.izba. wroc.pl. WESTERN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QA-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 41/43, tel. (+48) 71 795 06 56, www.zig.pl. 80  Wrocław In Your Pocket

DENTAL ARTQA-6, ul. Komandorska 53a/3b, tel. (+48) 71 373 22 66, www.dental-art.pl. PRESTIGE DENT QB-3, ul. Oławska 9, tel. (+48) 663 67 77 77, www. prestigedent.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

EMERGENCY ROOM 4 WOJSKOWY SZPITAL KLINICZNY Qul. Weigla 5 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 261 660 373, www.4wsk.pl. DOLNOŚLĄSKI SZPITAL SPECJALISTYCZNY � CENTRUM MEDYCYNY MEDYCYNY RATUNKOWEJ QH-5, ul. Traugutta 116, tel. (+48) 71 789 02 00, www. szpital-marciniak.wroclaw.pl.

@InYourPocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Directory INTERNET CAFES CZATERÓWKA QB-3, ul. Szewska 75/77, tel. (+48) 609 57 53 34. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. INTERMAX QA-3, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71 794 05 73, www. imx.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, 4zł/hour.

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKA QB-3, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 38, www.pocztapolska.pl. Open 24hrs. POCZTA POLSKA QC-3, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 81. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

PRIVATE CLINICS LUX�MED �LUX�MED CENTRUM MEDY M EDYCZNE� CZNE� QE-4, ul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www. luxmed.pl. MEDICOVER QE-6, Powstańców Śląskich 7a, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.com. VITA CLINIC QB-3, ul. Oławska 15, tel. (+48) 71 343 35 56, www.vitawroclaw.com.pl.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES ROMAN CATHOLIC PARISH OF ST. CHARLES BOROMEUSZ Home of the Pastoral Centre for English Speakers, St. Charles Boromeusz in Fabryczna is essentially the headquarters of Wrocław’s international Catholic community. Englishlanguage masses take place Sundays at 16:00. The parish also offers confession and priest services in English, Englishlanguage wedding ceremonies, etc. Visit their website for more information.Qul. Krucza 58 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 361 52 65, www.pastoralcentre.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES UNIVERSAL EXPRESS EXPRE SS RELOCATIONS RELOCATIONS QAl. Jaworowa 14/2, tel. (+48) 71 357 17 87, www.uer. pl.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERS EXPRESS QE-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 92, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 65, www. tlumaczy.pl. facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Hotels

No matter what end of the price spectrum you’re able to entertain, in Wrocław you have plenty of options from 5-star presidentials to budget boarding houses, boutique B&Bs to boisterous hostels, historic apartments to business suites. The market is positively flooded with hotel rooms (well over 3,500), with several new options opening each year. On our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com - we list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and around the Lower Silesian capital, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include all of that content here as we once did, however we still provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and hostels below b elow.. Sleep well.

CREAM OF THE CROP MONOPOLQA-4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 77, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. 121 rooms (107 singles, 107 doubles, 14 suites). PH 6UFKDXCw hhhhh

PLATINUM PALACEQul. Powstańców Śląskich 204 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 327 06 00, www.platinumpalace. pl. 46 rooms (41 singles, 41 doubles, 5 suites). PH6

SOFITEL WROCŁAW OLD TOWN QA-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67, tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, www.sofitel-wroclaw.com. 205 rooms (189 singles, 173 doubles, 15 apartments). PH6UFKDw hhhhh

THE GRANARY LA SUITE HOTEL WROCLAW CITY CENTER QB-4, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00, www. thegranaryhotel.com. 46 rooms (39 singles, 39 doubles, 7 apartments). PH6UFK hhhhh

UPMARKET ART HOTEL QA-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 787 74 00, www. arthotel.pl. 80 rooms (17 singles, 55 doubles, 6 suites, 1 apartment). PH6UFLKX hhhh BEST WESTERN PRIMA QA-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 16-19, tel. (+48) 71 782 55 55, www.bestwestern-prima.pl. 78 rooms (77 singles, 65 doubles, 1 apartment). PH6UFLKD hhhh

UFKDw hhhhh

RADISSON BLUQC-3, ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. 162 rooms (13 singles, 144 doubles, 5 apartments).

DWÓR POLSKI QA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 372 34 15, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. 28 rooms (24 singles, 22 doubles, 4 apartments). H6K hhhh

PH6UFKD hhhhh 82  Wrocław In Your Pocket

wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P

Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted

F

Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K

Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D

Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6

Animal friendly w Wellness

C

Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

Your home in Wroclaw EUROPEUM QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, tel. (+48) 71 371 44 00, www.europeum.pl. 36 rooms (36 singles, 33 doubles). PHUFKDw hhh HOTEL JANA PAWŁA II QC-2, ul. Św. Idziego 2, tel. (+48) 71 327 14 00, www.hotel-jp2.pl. 45 rooms (1 single, 43 doubles, 1 apartment). PHULKD hhhh HP PARK PLAZA QB-1, ul. Drobnera 11-13, tel. (+48) 71 320 84 00, www.wroclaw.hotelepark.pl. 177 rooms (156 singles, 156 doubles, 19 suites, 2 apartments). PH6UK

Purkyniego 10, Wrocław Phone: 71 375 00 00 [email protected]

Dw hhhh

MERCURE WROCŁAW CENTRUM QC-3, Pl. Dominikański 1, tel. (+48) 71 323 27 00, www. mercure.com. 151 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles, 7 apartments). PH6UKw hhhh PARK HOTEL DIAMENT WROCŁAW Qul. Muchoborska 10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 735 03 50, www.hotelediament.pl. 132 rooms (127 singles, 115 doubles, 3 suites, 2 apartments). PH6UFK hhhh

PURO HOTEL WROCŁAW QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 6, tel. (+48) 71 772 51 00, www. purohotel.pl. 102 rooms (102 singles, 97 doubles). PH6ULK hhh

QUBUS HOTEL WROCŁAWQB-3, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny 2, tel. (+48) 71 797 98 00, www.qubushotel. com. 83 rooms (83 singles, 62 doubles, 3 apartments). PH6UFKDC hhhh

SCANDIC WROCŁAW QA-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57, tel. (+48) 71 787 00 00, www.scandichotels.com. 164 rooms (164 singles, 164 doubles). PH6UF KDX hhhh

SLEEPWALKER BOUTIQUE SUITESQE-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 733 35 55 35, www.sleepwalker. pl. 12 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 9 apartments). PHU facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

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Hotels MID-RANGE BUGATTIQul. Kosmonautów 328 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 349 35 23, www.hotelbugatti.pl. 20 rooms (17 singles, 17 doubles, 3 triples). PH6K hhh NEW BOUTIQUE BRAJT HOTELQE-4, ul. Pawła Włodkowica 18, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 81, www.brajt.pl. 8 rooms (8 singles, 4 doubles). P6UX hhh CAMPANILE WROCŁAW STARE MIASTO QA-1, ul. Jagiełły 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www. campanile-wroclaw.pl. 110 rooms (109 singles, 109 doubles, 1 apartment). PH6UK hhh

MONOPOL HOTEL

 A pleasant stay in Wrocław’s Old Town • convenient location

• comfortable for work and relaxation • fre free e wi-fi wi -fi • welcome package in each room • TV with Canal+ • restaurant serving Polish Polish and International cuisine • conferences, trainings trainings and banquets

ul. Jagiełły 7, 50-201 Wrocław Tel. +48 71 326 78 00, Fax: +48 71 326 78 01 [email protected], www.camp www.campanile-wroclaw anile-wroclaw.pl .pl

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Wrocław In Your Pocket

Standing on the former site of a 14th-century Franciscan church & monastery at ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (A-4), illustrious banker Wallenberg-Pachaly and architect Karol Grosser tore down the crumbling ruins in 1890 and built a neo-Baroque hotel and neo-Renaissance trading house here, officially opening it as the ‘Hotel Monopol’ in 1892. The decades that followed saw the Monopol become the most famous hotel in town with Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and even Hitler himself staying here; a special balcony was added to room 113 so that Der Fuhrer could use it to address the crowds below. In 1948, Pablo Picasso came to town for the ‘International Congress of Intellectuals in Defence of Peace’ and painted ‘Dove of Peace’ in his room. Zbigniew Cybulski - the Polish James Dean - also shot several famous movie scenes in tthe he hotel. Closed in 2006 and sold to the Likus Hotel & Restaurants Group, the Monopol was thoroughly renovated and reopened in 2009. Rooms are immaculately decorated with turn-of-the-century antiques, and the building features two fabulous restaurants (Acquario and Monopol), as well as two seasonal rooftop terrace bars (La Terazza Terazza and Sky Bar). Once more the most exclusive and luxurious hotel in town, if you can afford to sleep in this historic locale you’ll find that the experience is worth the money. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Hotels CENTRUM DIKULQA-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 17-19, tel. (+48) 71 796 77 66, www.dikul.pl. 32 rooms (11 singles, 19 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). PU hhh DUETQA-3, ul. Św Mikołaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785 51 00, www.hotelduet.pl. 39 rooms (34 singles, 34 doubles, 5 apartments). PH6K hhh EUROPEJSKI QB-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71 772 10 00, www. europejskiwroclaw.pl. 95 rooms (19 singles, 64 doubles, 12 apartments). PH6UK hhh IBIS STYLES WROCŁAW CENTRUM QC-5/6, ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 00, www.ibis.com. 133 rooms (133 singles, 108 doubles, 21 triples). PH6UL hhh LOTHUS QB-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 22/23, tel. (+48) 71 341 97 38, www.lothus.pl. 63 rooms (23 singles, 40 doubles). H6UK hhh

Wyścigowa 35 (Krzyki), (Krz yki), tel. (+48) 71 339 NOVOTELQul. Wyścigowa 80 51, www.accorhotels.com. 145 rooms (145 singles, 145 doubles). PH6UK hhh

PATIOQA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375 04 00, www.hotelpatio.pl. 50 rooms (42 singles, 42 doubles, 8 apartments). H6KX hhh POLONIA QA-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343 10 21, www. poloniawroclaw.pl. 107 rooms (28 singles, 79 doubles). 6UK hhh

QUALITY SYSTEM HOTEL H OTEL WROCŁAW QH-1, Al. Kromera 16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www. quality-hotels.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 77 doubles, 7 apartments). PH6UKDCw hhh SOFIA QB-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 104 (entrance from ul. Gwarna 23), tel. (+48) 71 372 32 00, www.hotelsofia.pl. www.hotelsofi a.pl. 31 rooms (31 singles, 31 doubles). PH6UKDw hhh TUMSKI QC-2, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 99, www. hotel-tumski.com.pl. 57 rooms (14 singles, 38 doubles, 3 triples, 1 apartment). H6UK hhh WODNIK  QH-5, ul. Na Grobli 28, tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67, www. wodnik-hotel.pl. 18 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles, 2 suites). HK hhh

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January - April 2016

85

Hotels BUDGET AKIRA BED & BREAKFASTQF-2, Pl. Strzelecki 28, tel. (+48) 71 323 08 88, www.hotelakira.pl. 21 rooms (21 singles, 17 doubles, 2 triples). 6U B&B HOTEL QB-4, ul. Piotra Skargi 24-28, tel. (+48) 71 324 09 80, www.hotelbb.pl. 140 rooms (140 singles, 140 doubles, 2 triples, 2 quads). PH6UX hh BOOGIE HOSTEL DELUXE QA-3, ul. Białoskórnicza 6, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www. boogiehostel.com. 13 rooms (12 singles, 12 doubles, 1 quad). 6 CILANTRO BED & BREAKF BRE AKFAST AST QA-1, ul. Pomorska 32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82, www.cilantro.pl. 9 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 3 triples). 6L

HOTEL PIAST QB-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 71 343 00 33, www. piastwroclaw.pl. 92 rooms (80 singles, 74 doubles, 12 suites). PH6UK hh IBIS BUDGET BUDGE T WROCŁAW STADION STADION Qul. Lotnicza 151 (Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84 48, www.ibisbudget.com. 122 rooms (118 singles, 118 doubles, 4 triples). P6U h SAVOY QA-5, Pl. Kościuszki 19, tel. (+48) 71 344 30 71, www. savoy-wroclaw.pl. 26 rooms (20 singles, 17 doubles, 4 triples). 6

 APARTMEN  AP ARTMENTS TS ART APART QD-4, ul. Walońska 7/1, tel. (+48) 667 71 71 71, www. artapart.pl. 50 rooms (50 apartments). 6 EXCLUSIVE WORLD APARTMENTS QB-3, ul. Krawiecka 6/4, tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www. exclusiveapartments.pl. 70 rooms (70 apartments). P LEOAPART QB-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 330 71 21, www. leoapart.com. 55 rooms (55 apartments). 6LK LUCKY APARTMENTS Wita Stwosza 15, tel. (+48) 730 89 8 9 99 88, www. QB-3, ul. Wita luckyapart.pl/en. 20 rooms (20 apartments). 6 SILVER APARTMENTS QB-3, ul. Krawiecka 3, tel. (+48) 698 68 83 44, www. silverapartments.pl. 33 rooms (33 apartments). P6

86  Wrocław In Your Pocket

wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Hotels HOSTELS ABSYNT HOSTEL QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 71 798 96 36, www.absynthostel.pl. 132 rooms (2 singles, 17 doubles, 6 triples, 6 quads, 93 apartments, 34 dorm beds, 1 fiveperson room, 4 six-person room, 3 eight-person room). BOOGIE HOSTELQE-4, ul. Ruska 34, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www.boogiehostel.com. 20 rooms (19 singles, 19 doubles, 19 triples, 2 quads, 8 dorm beds). P6 CINNAMON QB-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48) 71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. 10 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 44 dorm beds). 6 GRAMPA’S HOSTELQF-3, Pl. Św. Macieja 2/1, tel. (+48) 71 321 92 40, www.grampahostel.com. 9 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles, 48 dorm beds). HOSTEL BEMMAQF-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 15, tel. (+48) 531 53 15 98, www.hostelbemma.pl. 17 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 25 dorm beds). 6 HOSTEL KOMBINATQA-4, ul. Świdnicka 24/4, tel. (+48) 71 344 66 77, www.hostelkombinat.pl. 5 rooms (2 doubles, 1 triple, 13 dorm beds).

Comfortable stay in the city center  Świdnicka 24/26 lok. 2, Wrocław tel. 0048 602-50-66-47 [email protected], www.stdhostel.pl   St.Dorothys.hostel.apartments

MLECZARNIA QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. 8 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad, 34 dorm beds). MOON HOSTELQA-3, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance from Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00, www.moonhostel.pl/wroclaw. 26 rooms (10 doubles, 7 triples, 3 quads, 3 5-person rooms, 2 6-person room, 1 8-person room). 6L NEW ST. DOROTHY’SQA-4, ul. Świdnicka 24/26 lok.2, tel. (+48) 602 50 66 47, www.stdhostel.pl. 6 rooms (2 apartments, 15 dorm beds).

HOTEL |  CONGRESS CENTRE |  RESTAURANT 

THE ONE HOSTELQB-3, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71 337 24 02, www.onehostel.pl. 22 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles, 2 quads, 106 dorm beds). H WRATISLAVIAQC-5, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel. (+48) 71 360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. 33 rooms (2 singles, 5 doubles, 3 triples, 16 quads, 10 apartments, 40 dorm beds). 6U

 www.terminalhotel.pl  www.terminalhot el.pl

 AIRPORT HOTEL HOTEL TERMINAL HOTEL Qul. Rakietowa 33 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 773 55 75, www.terminalhotel.pl. 52 rooms (52 singles, 52 doubles). PH6UK hhh facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

ul. Rakietowa 33, Wrocław

tel.: + 48 71 773 55 75, [email protected]

January - April 2016

87

Street Register Al. Armii Krajowej F-7, H-7 Al. Boya-Żeleńskiego H-1 Al. Kochanowskiego I-3 Al. Kromera H-1 Al. Matejki G-3 Al. Słowackiego G-4 Anny, św. C-2 Antoniego, św. A-3 Arrasowa B-4 Bałuckiego A-5 Bałuckiego F-5 Barlickiego G-2 Barycka D-1 Barycka G-3 Baudouina de Courtenay I-2 Bema G-3 Bema, gen. C-1 Bema, gen., pl. C-1 Benedyktyńska F-3, G-3 Berenta H-1 Bernardyńska C-3 Bernardyńska G-4 Białoskórnicza A-2 Biskupia B-3 Biskupia F-4 Bogusławskiego A/B-5 Bogusławskiego F-5 Bohaterów Getta, pl. A-3 Bolesława Chrobrego F-2/3 Borna, pl. A-1 Borowska A-6 Borowska F-6 Bożego Ciała A/B-4 Bożego Ciała F-5 Braniborska E-4 Brodatego Henryka B-1 Browarna G-1/2 Brzeska D-6 Brzeska H-6 Bulwar Dunikowskiego G-4 Bulwar Włostowica G-4 Ciepła F-6/7 Cieszkowskiego I-2 Cieszyńskiego A-2 Cieszyńskiego F-4 Curie-Skłodowskiej H-4, I-4 Cybulskiego A/B-1/2 Cybulskiego F-3 Czerwonego Krzyża I-3 Czesława, bł. B-3 Czysta B-4/5 Czysta F-5 Czysty, pl. A/B-4 Dąbrowskiego G-5 Dąbrowskiego, Dąbrowskiego, gen. C-5 Daszyńskiego G-2, H-2/3 Dawida G-6 Dębickiego F-2 Długa E-3 Dmowskiego E-3 Dobra E-4 Dobrzyńska D-4 Dobrzyńska G-4 Dolna G-2 Dominikański, Pl. C-3 Doroty, św. A-4 Drobnera B/C-1 Drobnera F-3, G-3 Druckiego-Lubeckiego A-4 Druckiego-Lubeckiego F-5 Drukarska E-6/7 Drzewna E-4 Dubois A/B-1 Dubois F-3 Dworcowa B/C-5 Dworcowa G-5 Dyrekcyjna B/C-6 Dyrekcyjna F-6 Elżbiety, św. A-3 Flisacka E-2, F-2 Franciszkańska A-4 Franciszkański, pl. A-4 Frycza-Modrzewskiego C-2/3 Gajowa C-6 Garbary A/B-2 Garncarska C-3 Gdańska H-3 Gepperta A-3 Gliniana F-6, G-6 Gnieźnieńska E-2 Górnickiego H-3 Grabiszyńska E-5 Grodzka B/C-2 Grodzka F-4, G-4 Grunwaldzka H-3/4, I-3 Grunwaldzki, pl C/D-3/4 Gwarna B-5

88 

Gwarna F-5 Hauke-Bosaka G-5 Haukego-Bosaka C/D-4 Henryka Brodatego F-3 Henryka Pobożnego Pobożnego F-3 Henrykowska G-7 Hercena C-5 Hercena G-5 Hlonda, kard. D-2 Hoene-Wrońskiego H-4 Hubska C-6 Hubska G-6/7 Chemiczna H-3 Chudoby H-6 Idziego, św. C/D-2 Igielna A/B-3 Igielna F-4 Inowrocławska E-3 Jadwigi, św. C-2 Jagiełły E-3 Janickiego C-3 Janickiego G-4 Janiszewskiego H-4 Jatki A-2 Jęczmienna E-5 Jedności Narodowej B/C-1 Jedności Narodowej Narodowej F-3, G-2/3, H-2 Joannitów B-6 Joannitów F-6 Jodłowa B-3 Joliot-Curie D-2/3 Joliot-Curie G-4, H-4 Józefa, św. D-2 Kamienna E-7, G-7 Kanonia C/D-2 Kapistrana, św. C-3 Kapitulna D-2 Kard. Hlonda G-3 Kard. Wyszyńskiego G-3/4, H-2/3 Kaszubska F-3 Katarzyny, św. B/C-3 Katedralna C/D-2 Katedralna G-3/4 Katedralny, pl. D-2 Kazimierza Jagiellończyka F-3 Kazimierza Wielkiego A/B-3/4 Kazimierza Wielkiego F-4 Kaznodziejska B-3 Kiełbaśnicza A-2/3 Kiełbaśnicza F-4 Kilińskiego C-1 Kilińskiego G-3 Kleczkowska F-2 Kluczborska G-2 Kniaziewicza C-5 Kniaziewicza G-5 Kolejowa E-5 Kołłątaja B-4/5 Komandorska A-5/6 Komandorska F-6 Kominka, kard. D-2 Komuny Paryskiej C/D-5/6 Komuny Paryskiej G-5 Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl. B/C-5/6 Kościelny, pl. C-2 Kościuszki A-5 Kościuszki F-5, G-5 Kościuszki, pl. A/D-4/6 Kotlarska A/B-3 Kotlarska F-4 Kraińskiego C-2/3 Krakowska H-6, I-7 Krasińskiego B/C-3/4 Krasińskiego G-5 Kraszewskiego F-2 Krawiecka B-3 Kręta F-2, G-2 Krowia B-3 Krowia F-4 Krupnicza A-3 Krupnicza F-4 Krzysztofa, św., pl. B-4 Krzywa H-3 Księcia Witolda F-3 Kurkowa A-1 Kurkowa F-3 Kurzy Targ B-3 Kurzy Targ F-4 Kuźnicza B-2/3 Kuźnicza F-4  Łaciarska B-2/3  Łaciarska F-4  Ładna H-3/4  Łąka Mazurska H-1, I-1  Łąkowa A-4  Łąkowa F-5  Łazienna A-2

Wrocław In Your Pocket

 Łazienna F-4 Ledochowskiego D-1 Legnicka E-4 Lelewela E-5 Leszczyńskiego A-3 Lniana G-7  Łódzka F-6/7  Łokietka Władysława B-1 Lubuska E-5  Łukasińskiego D-5  Łukasińskiego G-5 Macieja, św., pl. B-1 Małachowskiego C-6 Małachowskiego F-5, G-5 Malarska A-2 Marcina, św. C-2 Marii Magdaleny, św. B-3 Marsz. Piłsudskiego E-5, F-5 Matejki, al. D-1 Mazowiecka D-3/4 Mazowiecka G-4/5 Mennicza A/B-4 Mennicza F-5 Miernicza D-5 Miernicza G-5 Mieszczańska A-1 Mieszczańska E-3, F-3 Mieszka I C-1/2 Mieszka I G-3 Michalczyka E-3 Mikołaja, św. A-3 Miła H-3/4 Minkowskiego H-3/4 Młoda H-6 Młodych Techników E-3 Modrzejewskiej A-4 Modrzejewskiej F-5 Muzealna A-4 Muzealna F-5 Myśliwska F-3 Na Grobli H-5 Na Niskich Łąkach H-6, I-6 Na Szańcach C-1 Na Szańcach G-3 Nabycińska E-4 Najświętszej Marii Panny C-2 Namysłowska G-2 Nankiera, bp., pl. B/C-2 Nasypowa A-5 Nasypowa E-5, F-5 Nauczycielska H-4 Nehringa H-4 Niemcewicza C-1 Niemcewicza G-2/3 Nobla F-3 Norwida H-4 Nowa B/C-4 Nowa F-5, G-5 Nowowiejska H-3 Nowy Świat A-2 Nowy Świat F-4 Nowy Targ, pl. B-3 Nożownicza B-2/3 Nożownicza F-4 Nyska G-7, H-7 Odrzańska A-2/3 Odrzańska F-4 Ofiar Oświęcimskich A/B-3 Ofiar Oświęcimskich F-4 Oławska B-3, C-4 Oławska F-4, G-4 Ołbińska G-2/3 Oleśnicka G-3 Orzeszkowej H-2/3 Otmuchowska G-7, I-7 Otwarta A-1 Otwarta F-3 Owsiana E-5 Pabianicka F-6 Pasterska E-1, G-1, H-2 Paulińska A/B-1 Paulińska F-3 Pawła Włodkowica E-4 Pawłowa E-5 Pestalozziego G-3 Piaskowa C-2/3 Piaskowa G-4 Piastowska H-3/4 Piłsudskiego, Piłsudskiego, marsz. A/B-5 Piwna H-4 Plac Bema G-3 Plac Borna F-3 Plac Dominikański G-4 Plac Franciszkański F-4 Plac Grunwaldzki H-4, I-4 Plac J. Szeli E-5 Plac Jana Pawła II E-4

Plac Katedralny G-4 Plac Legionów E-5 Plac Nowy Targ B-3 Plac Orląt Lwowskich E-4 Plac Polski G-4 Plac Powstańców Śląskich E-7 Plac Powstańców Warszawy G-4 Plac Powstańców Wielkopolskich F-2 Plac Rozjezdny E-5 Plac Słowiański G-2 Plac Solny F-4 Plac Strzelecki F-2 Plac św. Krzysztofa F-4 Plac św. Mikołaja E-3 Plac Teatralny F-5 Plac Uniwersytecki F-4 Plac Westerplatte H-3 Plac Wróblewskiego Wróblewskiego G-5 Plac Zgody H-5 Podwale A/C-3/5 Podwale E-4, F-3, G-4/5 Podwórcowa F-3 Polaka H-4 Polski, pl. C-3 Pomorska A-1 Pomorska F-3 Poniatowskiego G-3 Poniatowskiego, Poniatowskiego, ks. C-1 Portowa E-2 Powstańców Śląskich A-5/6 Powstańców Śląskich E-6 Powstańców Warszawy pl. D-3 Prądzyńskiego G-5, H-5 Prądzyńskiego, Igancego, gen. D-5/6 Pretficza E-6/7 Probusa F-3 Probusa Henryka B-1 Prosta E-5 Prusa C/D-1 Prusa G-3, H-3 Przejście Garncarskie A/B-3 Przejście Żelaźnicze A/B-3 Przeskok D-1 Przeskok G-3 Ptasia F-3 Psie Budy A-3 Psie Budy F-4 Pszenna E-5 Pułaskiego G-5/6 Pułaskiego, gen. C/D-4/6 Purkyniego, Jana Ewangelisty C/D-3 Rakowiecka I-5/6 Reja H-3/4 Rejtana B-5 Rejtana F-5 Reymonta F-2 Roentgena H-3/4 Roosevelta G-2/3 Rostafińskiego B-1 Rostafińskiego F-3 Rozbrat H-3 Ruska A-3 Ruska E-4, F-4 Rybacka E-4 Rydygiera B-1 Rydygiera F-3 Rychtalska G-2 Rynek A-3 Rynek F-4 Rzeźnicza A-2/3 Rzeźnicza F-4 Sądowa E-5 Siemieńskiego F-2 Sienkiewicza C/D-1 Sienkiewicza G-3, H-3, I-3 Sikorskiego E-4 Skargi F-5 Skargi, ks. B-4 Składowa A-1 Składowa F-3 Skwerowa A-6 Ślężna A/B-6 Słodowa C-2 Słowackiego, al. C/D-3 Słowackiego, wybrzeże D-3/4 Słowiańska G-2 Smoluchowskiego H-4, I-4 Śniadeckich I-3 Solny, pl. A-3 Sopocka H-3, I-3 Srocza F-3 Środkowa E-4 Śrutowa B-1 Staromłyńska C-2

Stawowa B-5 Strażnicza A/B-2 Stysia E-5 Sucha B/C-6 Sucha F-6, G-6 Sudecka E-7 Sukiennice A/B-3 Św. Anny F-3, G-3 Św. Antoniego E-4, F-4 Św. Doroty F-4/5 Św. Ducha C-2 Św. Ducha G-4 Św. Jadwigi G-3/4 Św. Józefa G-4 Św. Katarzyny F-4, G-4 Św. Mikołaja E-4, F-4 Św. Wincentego F-2/3 Świdnicka A/B-3/5 Świdnicka F-5 Świebodzka E-5 Świętokrzyska C/D-1/2 Świętokrzyska G-3 Świstackiego D-6 Świstackiego G-5/6 Swobodna A-6 Swobodna E-5, F-5/6 Szajnochy A-3 Szajnochy F-4 Szarzyńskiego H-3 Szczepińska E-4 Szczytnicka D-2 Szczytnicka G-4, H-4 Szewska B-2/4  Teatralna na B-4  Teatralna na F-5  Teatralny, ny, pl. A-4  Traugutta C/D-4/5  Traugutta G-5, H-5  Trzebnicka cka B-1  Trzebnicka cka F-2/3 Ukryta H-3 Uniwersytecka B-2 Uniwersytecka F-4 Uniwersytecki, pl. B-2 Ustronie G-2 Walecznych H-3 Walońska D-4 Walońska G-5 Warzywnicza C-1 Wąska A/B-1 Wesoła F-6 Widok B-4 Widok F-4/5 Więckowskiego H-5/6 Wieczysta F-7, G-7 Wierzbowa B-4 Wierzbowa F-4/5 Więzienna B-2 Więzienna F-4 Wita Stwosza B-3 Wita Stwosza F-4 Wita, św. B-3 Witolda, ks. A/B-2 Władysława Łokietka F-3 Włodkowica E-4 Wodna B-2 Wolności, pl. A-4 Worcella C/D-4/5 Worcella G-5 Wróblewskiego, Wróblewskiego, pl. D-4 Wrocławczyka H-4 Wybrzeże ConradaKorzeniowskiego F-2 Wybrzeże Słowackiego H-4/5 Wybrzeże Wyspiańskiego H-4 Wygodna G-2 Wyspa C-2 Wyszyńskiego, kard. D-1/2 Zachodnia E-3 Zakładowa F-2, G-2 Zaolziańska A-6 Zaolziańska F-6 Zapolskiej A-5 Zapolskiej F-5 Zaporoska E-5/6 Zaułek Wolski A-5 Żeromskiego D-1 Zgodna H-5 Zielińskiego E-5/6 Żiżki E-3 Zyndrama z Maszkowic A-1/2 Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3, F-3 Żytnia E-5

wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Index Absynt Hostel 87 Ahimsa Restaurant & Club 40 Akira Bed & Breakfast 86 Akropolis 25 Ambasada 49 Amorinio 42 Antyki przy Szewskiej 75 Aquarelle 25 Archaeology Museum 58 Archdiocese Museum 66 Architecture Museum 58 Arkady Wrocławskie 78 Art Apart 86 Art Cafe Kalambur 50 Art Hotel 82 Barka Tumska 27, 27, 41 Baszta 40 B&B Hotel 86 Bernard 27 Best Western Prima 82 Bezsenność 50 Bierhalle 48 Blackboard Pub 45 BLT & Flatbreads 23 Bobolandia 72 Boogie Hostel 87 Boogie Hostel Deluxe 86 Boutique Brajt Hotel 84 Boutique Brajt Restaurant 36 Brasserie 27 27 Breadway 41 Browar Złoty Pies 48 Bugatti 84 Cafeterie Chic 66 Campanile Wrocław Stare Miasto 84 Capri Ristorante Pizzeria 33 Cathedral of St. John the Baptist 66 Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre 68 Centennial Hall Parking 69 Central Cafe 41, 41, 42 Centrum Dikul 85 Cepelia 78 Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre73 Centre 73 Charlotte Chleb i Wino 42 Chatka Przy Jatkach 36 Church of Saints Peter & Paul 65 Church of the Holy Cross / St. S t. Bartholomew's 65 Cilantro Bed & Breakfast 86 Cinnamon 87 CIŻ Cafe 71 Cocofli 42 Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky 45 Cukier Lukier 77 Czary Mary 27 Czekoladziarnia Wrocław 43 Darea Sushi Korean - Japanese Restaurant 34 De' Molika 76 Dobra Karma 28 90  Wrocław In Your Pocket

Domówka 50 Duet 85 Dwór Polski 36, 82 36, 82 Empik Megastore 76 Eter Club 46 Ethnographic Museum 58 Europejski 85 Europeum 83 Exclusive World Apartments86 Apartments 86 Exit Room 73 Food Art Gallery 28 Free Walking Tour Foundation 55 Fu-Ku 77 Galeria Dominikańska 78 Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower 78 Galeria Schubert 74 Galicja 36 Giselle French Bakery Cafe 41 Grampa's Hostel 87 Hala Targowa 76 Hortyca 39 Hostel Bemma 87 Hostel Kombinat 87 Hotel Jana Pawła II 83 Hotel Piast 86 HP Park Plaza 83 Ibis Budget Wrocław Stadion 86 Ibis Styles Wrocław Centrum 85

Iglica 68 Infowro Jatki Wrocław 57 Inny Świat w Piwniczce Gotyckiej 75 Jacek i Agatka 40 JaDka 36 Karczma Lwowska 37 Knajpa Kres 39 Konspira 37, 37, 59 Kontynuacja 45 KRVN 46 Kwatera Główna 73 La Dolce Vita 34 La Maddalena 35 La Scala 34 Las/Zupa 26 Le Bistrot Parisien 24 Le Chef 28 Leoapart 86 Lothus 85 Lower Silesian Cultural Information Centre 57 Lucky Apartments 86 Lwia Brama 28, 28, 66 Machina Organika 40 Malawi Night Club 51 Mañana Cafe 50 Marina 29 Marynka Piwo i Aperitivo 46 Masala Indian Restaurant 25 Mercure Wrocław Centrum 83

Military Museum 59 Miś 40 Mleczarnia 46, 46, 87 Moaburger 23 MOHER Vintage & Design 77 Monopol 82 Monopol Spa & Wellness Centre 73 Monument to the Victims of the Katyń Massacre 57 Moon Hostel 87 Nadodrze Cafe Resto Bar 29 Nagi Kamerdyner 49 National Museum 59 Natural History Museum 66 Neon Side Club & Gallery 46 New Jewish Cemetery 70 Niebo Cafe 47 Nietota 51 Novotel 85 Od Koochni 29 OK Wine Bar 29 Old Havana Cigar Shop & Lounge 74 Old Jewish Cemetery 71 Padbar 47 PANATO Café 43 Papa Bar 47 Park Hotel Diament Wrocław 83 Partisan Hill 61

Street art abounds abound in Wrocław, including this mural on ul. Pomorska (A-2) by Erica Il Cane. For more turn to p.61. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

Index Patelnia 26 Patio 85 Pergola Ice Rink 69, 69, 72 Pergola Restaurant 69 Phathathai 39 Pierogarnia Stary Młyn 37 Piwnica Świdnicka 38 PiwoCzas 74 Plac Targowy Świebodzki 76 Platinum Palace 82 Pochlebna 30 Pod Fredrą 38 Pod Latarniami 48 Pod Papugami 30, 30, 48 Polish Poster Gallery 75 Polonia 85 Post & Communications Museum 59 Powoli 41 PRIV 51 Przystań 30 PURO Hotel Wrocław 83 Quality System Hotel Wrocław 85 Qubus Hotel Wrocław 83 Racławice Panorama 60 Radisson Blu 82 Ragtime 46 Renoma 79 Restauracja Acquario 32 Restauracja Europejska 32 Restauracja Monopol 38 Restauracja Patio 32 Rodeo Grill Steak House 23 Sarah 34 Savoy 86 Scandic Wrocław 83 Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej 38, 38, 49 Sezam 72 Shopiq 76 Silver Apartments 86 SkyBowling 72 Sky Tower 57 SleepWalker Boutique Suites 83 Słodkie Czary Mary 77 Soczewka 24 Sofia 85 Sofitel Wrocław Old Town 82 Spiż Brewery 48 Stare Jatki 61 Stary Klasztor 32 St. Dorothy's 87 Steinhaus 35 St. Elizabeth's Church 56 St. Giles Church 66 St. Martin's Church 65

St. Mary Magdalene's Church 56 Sukiennice 7 33 Szajba 48 Szczytnicki Park 69 Szklarnia 48 Sztrass Burger 24 Szynkarnia 49  Tajne Komplety 76  Taverna Española 39  Terminal Hotel 87  The Anonymous Pedestrians 57  The Bente Kahan Foundation 71  The Granary La Suite Hotel Wroclaw City Center 82  The Naked Swordsman 57  The One Hostel 87  The Ossolineum 62  The Royal Palace, History History Museum 60  The White Stork Synagogue 71 Synagogue 71  The Winners Pub 49  Tourist Information 57  Town Hall, Museum of Burgher Art 60  Tumski 85 Ubieralnia 77 University Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus 56 Va Bene Trattoria 35 Vega 41 Vena Pottery 78 Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant 33, 46 33, 46 Vinyl Cafe 43 Water Tower 62 Wicar's Pub 49 Winylove 76 Wodnik 85 Wodnik Restaurant 33 Wratislavia 87 Wratislavia Tour 55 Wrocław Aquapark 73 Wrocław City Tours 55 Wrocław Contemporary Museum 58 Wrocław - Silesia Tours 55 Wrocław Souvenirs 78 Wrocław Stadium Ice Rink 72 Wrocław University 56 Wrocław Zoo 67 Złe Mięso 41 ZZ Top 26

Not listed here? More listings online: wroclaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

Neon is back and buzzing in Wrocław. Check out the signage at Neon Side Gallery (p.46), and learn more on p.62.

FEATURES FEA TURES INDEX 2016 Capital of Culture Breakfast Breweries Currency Exchange Decoding the Menu Facts & Figures Hot Beer? Konspira Language Smarts Live Music Market Square Market Values Milk Bars Monopol Hotel Neon Wrocław Pasaż Niepolda Polish Food Polish Snacks & Shots Polish Vodka Quick Eats Racławice Panorama Sky Tower Street Art  The Lamplighter Wait, Where Am I? Wrocław contemporary museum Wrocław Historical Timeline Wrocław IYP Online Wroclaw University

6 41 48 80 23 12 43 59 13 46 55 12 40 84 62 50 36 49 75 26 60 57 61 65 53 58 15 31 56

January - April 2016

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