Work Aids and Sewing Machine Attachments

WORK AIDS & SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENTS

Arushi Srivastava Gopal Krishan Dixit Akhoury Abhishek Vaishali Rai BFT-IV

2011-15

NIFT, New Delhi

What are work aids? Additional devices that can be added to basic sewing machines. COMMON TYPES include  Guides  Specialized presser feet  Folders  Binders

USES  To improve productivity  Improve or maintain quality standards  Reduce training time of operator  Reduce fatigue of operator

Understanding FOLDERS… 

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Generally used in situations where fabric must be folded prior to sewing Can be used for folds ranging from simple to complex Mostly separate devices attached to machine Enable Great increase in productivity High standard of control over quality of finish obtained

1. SHOULDER and YOKE joining 7. SLEEVE PLACKET

2. POCKET hemming

Folders for Shirt

6. Closing SIDE SEAMS

5. PLEAT gauges

4. CUFF HEMMING Short sleeve

3. CUFF HEMMING Long sleeve

SHOULDER and YOKE joining… YOKING FOLDER 

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Turns down the top ply and joins it to two additional ply The bottom ply is then turned back to form the yoke Special foot is needed

SHOULDER JOINING FOLDER 

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Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead

POCKET hemming… 

Used to hem the top of pockets

CUFF hemming (short sleeve)… DOWNTURNED IMITATION CUFF HEMMER 

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Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts May be used on lockstitch or chain stitch machines Stripes and plaids are easily matched Piping and other types of trim may also be added

UPTURNED IMITATION CUFF HEMMER 

Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts

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Must be used on lockstitch machines

CUFF hemming (long sleeve)… DOWNTURNED CUFF HEMMER

UPTURNED CUFF HEMMER 

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Used on lockstitch machines with lining and face goods in short pieces Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods

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Used on chain stitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods

Closing SIDE SEAM…  

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Lap seam folders are used Folder with separate width adjustment are available Can also be made with a spring release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely

SLEEVE PLACKET…

Used to sew a continuous facing around the sleeve opening.

Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on side of sleeve.

Folders For JEANS… Folders For JEANS

1. BELT LOOPS

5. BOTTOM LEG hemming

3. Close INSEAMS

2. Close SIDE SEAMS

4. Set ZIPPERS

6. Join RISER SEAM

BELT LOOPS…

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Used for producing belt loops on double needle cover stitch machines from short strips of material

For blind stitch machines (overlap style)

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Close SIDE SEAMS… Flat Bed Style

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Feed Off The Arm Style

Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin Available with spring front to allow seam clearance Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity

Close INSEAM

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LAP SEAM FOLDER WITH PIPING Used to attach ready made trim or piping to leg seam

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IMITATION LAP SEAM Produces an Imitation Lap Seam for decorative effects

Set ZIPPERS…

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Used to attach and topstitch left zipper fly on jeans and corduroys Top and bottom scrolls adjustable to achieve desired stitch margin Available for all lockstitch, needle feed and compound feed machines

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Turns the lining down and stitches it to the fly in one operation Top Scroll and Bottom Guide adjustable

Join RISER SEAM…

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Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin Available with spring front to allow seam clearance Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity

Understanding Presser Foot 

The presser foot is required to hold the fabric down firmly against the throat plate, thus preventing the fabric rising and falling with the needle. At the same time, it holds the fabric against the teeth of the feed dog as it rises up to transport the fabric. It is normally held down by spring pressure in order to ‘give’ slightly whilst the fabric plies are being fed. Minimum pressure should be used consistent with correct feeding of the particular fabric in use. Unfortunately, in high speed sewing there is a tendency for the presser foot to bounce as the feed dog makes contact with it, and this reduces the effective contact between the presser foot and the fabric and thus the control of the fabric.

Types of Presser Foot 

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Lapseam Folders Piping Folders Hemmers Strap Folders

Lapseam Folders

Piping Folders

Hemmers

Strap Folders

Understanding BINDERS… 

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Generally used in situations where two seams must be folded prior to sewing Binding machines are either flatbed or cylinder machines, straight stitch lockstitch, zig-zag lockstitch or chain stitch, depending on the application. They can also fit into existing machines, in a wide variety of variations.

Types of Binders 

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Right Angle In Line C Type

Right Angle Binder Set

In Line Binder Set

C Type Binder Set

Lamps and Lights…

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Sewing - Serging - Reading Lights Two Pack - LED Lights - Its is amazing how much light the Light It Up Easy Bend LED places on your work area plus the bendable lead allows you to direct the light where it's needed the most. The Light It Up Easy Bend LED light operateson three LR44 1.5 Volt button cell alkaline batteries. The LED bulb will give yearsof service and with the energy efficiency of LED lighting you can expect these batteries to last a year or more. The Light It Up Easy Bend LED light attaches to your sewing machine or serger using hook-and-loop fastening pads. The light can easily be removed and used as a Clip-On book-light. Replacement batteries are readily available at most Hardware, Department and Drugstores.

References • www.rga.co.uk •Clothing Technology-Europa •Carr and Latham

Thank You