Wines - Henri Fluchere

$1.95 A GOLDEN GUIDE

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HENRY GASSER'S GUIDE TO PAINTING KITES

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CASINO GAMES

THE SKY OBSERVER'S GUIDE ANTIQUES

GOLDEN, GOLDEN HANDBOOK, a n d GOLDEN PREss® are tra d e m a r k s of Western Publ i s h i n g C o m p a n y , I n c.

by

HENRI FLUCHERE Illustrated by the author U n d e r the g e n e ra l ed itors h i p of VERA R . WEBSTER

GOLDE N PRESS

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NEW YORK

Western P u b l i s h i ng C o m p a ny, I n c . Ra c i n e, Wiscon s i n

FO R E W O R D

I have tasted n early a l l the w i n e s described i n this boo k at o n e ti m e o r a n oth e r . Some are, a l a s, either g eog raphically o r economically b eyo n d my rea c h . For these I have b a sed my reporti n g o n the o p i n ion of fri e n d s a n d experts whose wine sense a n d d i s c ri m i n at­ i n g pal ates I trust co m pl etely. S i n ce, in the fi n a l a n a lysis, a wine is eva l u ated sub­ jectively , I h ave trie d to refra i n from m a k i n g statements refl ecti n g my ve ry perso n a l l i kes a n d d i s l i kes, leavi n g th e ultim ate j u d g e m ent o f a n y wi n e t o you, d e a r rea d e r a n d fellow-adventurer i nto the delig h tfu l wor l d of wine. A v o tr e sante! H . F. Copyr i g h t © 1973 by Weste rn P u b l ish i n g Compa n y , Inc. A l l r i g h ts reserved, i n c l u d i n g r i g hts of reprod u c t i o n a n d use i n a n y form o r b y a n y mea n s , i n c l u d � i n g t h e mak i n g of c o p i e s by a n y p h o to process, o r by a n y e l ectro n i c o r mec h a n i ­ c a l d e v i c e , printed or w r i tten or o ra l , or record i n g fo r so u n d or v i s u a l reprod u c t i o n or f o r u se i n a n y k n o w l e d g e ret r i e v a l system o r dev i c e , u n l ess permission in w r i t i n g is o b ta i ned from t h e copy r i g h t p r o p r i e t o r . Prod u ced in t h e U . S . A . P u b l ished by G o l den Press, New Y o r k , N . Y . l i brary of Co n g ress Cata l o g Card N u mbe" 72-85934.

C O N T E NT S WINE MAKING T H E GRAPE • Ma j or Varieties • The Grape Be rry . . . . • . . BAS I C STEPS TO W I N E MAK I NG • H a rvest i n g • C ru s h i n g • S u l f u r i n g • Pres s i n g • Ferm e n tation • C l a r i f i c a t i o n • Ag i n g . • • . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . .

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26 THE WINE MAKERS ............................... . U N I T E D STAT ES • C a l i fo r n i a a n d its W i n e D i stricts • Read i n g 28 a C a l i f o r n i a L a b e l • N e w York • Other Sta les . . . . . . . . FRANCE • Bordea ux • Burg u n dy • Alsace • Prove n c e • T h e R h o n e Volley • C h a m pa g n e • The L o i r e a n d Ot h e r Reg i o n s 5 2 G E RMANY • G e r m a n W i n e Laws • L a b e l s • T h e Great Reg i o n s . . . • . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 L UXEMBOU RG • • . . . . . . . • . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 I TA LY • Gove r n m e n t Controls • W i n e s a n d W i n e Reg i o n s . . 78 S PA I N • Place- n a m e s • Sherry • T h e Sclera System . . . . . . 82 86 PORTUGAL • Reg i o n a l W i n e s • Port . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . 89 GREECE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 AUSTRA L I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . 94 CANADA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • • . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . H U NGARY . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . • . . . . . • . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . 96 AUST R I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 YUGOS LAV I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • • • . . . . . . . . . . . 99 T H E SOUTH E R N N E I GH BORS • Mex i c o • Arg e n t i n a • C h i l e • Bra z i l • Urug uay . . . . . . . . . . . . • . .... ......... . 1 00 . • . A N D MOR E D I STANT N E I G H BORS • Russia • North Africa • South Africa • Japan . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 04 ENJOYING WINE • • . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S H O P P I NG, STOR I NG, A N D S E R V I N G . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . T H E WI N ET AST I N G PA RTY . .......... .... . ......... W I N I N G A N D D I N I NG OUT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W I N E A N D W E D D I NGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W I N E AND FOOD • A p petizers • Sou p s • S i m p l e D i s h es • Beef • La m b • Veal • Fresh Pork • H a m • Fowl • Seafood • Game • Salads • Desserts • C h e e s e • Fruits • Nuts • Wine Punches • B u ffets • Picnics . .. .... ... W I N E R I ES A N D M U S E UMS . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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WINE LANGUAGE . . . . . . . . . . . • . . • . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . GLOSSARY . . • . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . .. . .. S U GGESTED READ I N G . .................. ......... ACKNOW L E D GMENTS . . . . • . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . • . ...... I N D EX . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . • . .

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INTRODUCTION I n the fortu n ate regions of the wo rld where favorable con d itio n s for g ra p e cultivation exist, g e n e ration s of men and wo m e n h ave en joyed win e, without fuss or postu ri n g , a s p a rt of their d a i ly m e a l s . In the coun tries of these regions wine is consid ered a foo d . Most o f the wi n e produced throu g h out the world i s a good, p l a i n , a n d rel atively i n expen sive b everage, much l ik e the plain food it usually acco m panies so a g reeably. Fa ncy, pre m i u m wines a re ra rer, s o m ewhat mlew'