Wine Enthusiast - May 2014

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THE WORLD IN YOUR GLASS

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THE BEST PLACES TO EAT, DRINK AND STAY IN THE VALLEY

$5.99 US & CANADA

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THE NEW RAW BAR WINES PAGE PA AGE

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GREAT SEAFOOD PAIRINGS

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T MARKET COCKTAIL RECIPES 9 FARMER’S

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Please enjoy our wines responsibly. ©2014 Black Stallion Estate Winery, Napa, CA 94558, ALC. 14.5% BY VOL.

EDITOR’S CHOICE MAY ISSUE 2014

Finding a new favorite wine has never been more exciting. With over 150 stores staffed with friendly beverage experts, BevMo! is ready to help you find your new favorite wine, beer or spirit. So no matter which beverage you’re looking for or whatever occasion you’re planning… Just Add BevMo!

BevMo.com

MAY

FEATURES 42

NAPA OFF THE GRID BY VIRGINIE BOONE Discover the hidden gems tucked away in the valley.

50

NAPA’S UNSUNG HEROES BY STEVE HEIMOFF Though often overshadowed by the region’s big reds, Napa Valley’s top white wines shouldn’t be overlooked.

56

MAKING SENSE OF MONTALCINO BY KERIN O’KEEFE Understanding the complex subregions of Montalcino.

62

RETHINKING WINES AT THE RAW BAR BY MIKE DESIMONE & JEFF JENSSEN Your guide on what to drink the next time you dig into your seafood smörgåsbord.

50

COVER PHOTO: MEG BAGGOTT

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42

62

22

34

DEPARTMENTS

COLUMNS

OUT & ABOUT

EDITOR’S LETTER

12

8

Baja Meets NYC

THE CRUSH 15 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34

Farmer’s Market Cocktail Club Wine IQ: Leftover Wine Dilemma A Label Gets Graffitied Q&A: Scribe’s Andrew Mariani Perfect Spring Pairings Entertaining: Vacation Buys Dining Trend: Artisanal Flour Recipe of the Month Cocktail of the Month Destination: Where Bartenders Drink in New York City

LAST DROP 120 My Favorite Winemaker

Napa Mountain High BY ADAM STRUM

VIEWPOINT 34

Drinking in Napa BY JOE CZERWINSKI

BUYING GUIDE 70 88 94 98 100 104 111

Tuscany Austria Bordeaux Spain Argentina California Washington

115 116 118 119

Idaho New York Spirits Beer

32

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Inglenook.com

© 2014 Inglenook. All trademarks used herein are exclusive property of Inglenook.

Heritage

VOLUME 27, NUMBER 4

PUBLISHER & EDITOR Adam M. Strum VICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLISHING WINE ENTHUSIAST MEDIA Jay Spaleta EDITORIAL EXECUTIVE EDITOR Susan Kostrzewa MANAGING EDITOR Joe Czerwinski SENIOR EDITOR Mike Dawson WEB EDITOR/PRODUCER Marina Vataj ASSISTANT EDITOR Joseph Hernandez EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Alexis Korman CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen SPIRITS EDITOR Kara Newman CREATIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli ART DIRECTOR Julia Lea DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Megan Baggott DIRECTOR OF PRINT PRODUCTION Barbara Gianisis TASTING TASTING DIRECTOR Lauren Buzzeo ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Molly Sowers TASTING COORDINATOR Alexander Peartree ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Raven Blake EDITORIAL OFFICES 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549 TEL: 914.345.9463 FAX: 914.218.9186 [email protected] CALIFORNIA Steve Heimoff [email protected] Virginie Boone [email protected] EUROPE Roger Voss TEL/FAX: +33 562 09 50 76 [email protected] ITALY Kerin O’Keefe TEL: +41 91 930.0080 [email protected] SOUTH AMERICA & SPAIN Michael Schachner [email protected] PACIFIC NORTHWEST Paul Gregutt [email protected] Sean Sullivan [email protected] ADVERTISING & MARKETING VP PUBLISHING Jay Spaleta 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY TEL: 914.218.9262 FAX: 866.887.0943 [email protected] SOUTHEAST U.S. Denise Valenza TEL: 800.315.4397 [email protected] WESTERN U.S. Allison Langhoff TEL: 800.319.6920 [email protected] ACCOUNT MANAGERS Jennifer Gandolfi [email protected]; Debora Stein [email protected] ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Christine Bires [email protected] MARKETING & EVENTS MANAGER Jen Cortellini [email protected] ADVERTISING SERVICES COORDINATOR Katrina Sharkis [email protected] DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Jacqueline Strum [email protected] ART DIRECTOR OF EVENTS Eileen Curran [email protected] MARKETING COORDINATOR Carlie Tynan [email protected] CIRCULATION PROCIRC 3191 Coral Way, Suite 510, Miami, FL CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Jim Motrinec [email protected] CIRCULATION ASSISTANT Susi Chapman [email protected] RETAILERS To carry Wine Enthusiast Magazine, call 800.381.1288 ext. 6048 SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES 800.829.5901 (International: 386.447.2397) [email protected] BACK ISSUES AND ADDITIONAL COPIES Katrina Sharkis [email protected] REPRINTS Claudia Stachowiak [email protected] WINE ENTHUSIAST COMPANIES CHAIRMAN Adam M. Strum CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Sybil Strum PRESIDENT Hank Rosen CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Heidi Moore VICE PRESIDENT MARKETING Glenn Edelman DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Erika Strum Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly with one special issue, a total of 13 times per year. Subscriptions are $34.95 (International: Canada $59.95; Foreign $89.95). ©2014 Wine News, Inc. 333 North Bedford Road, Mount Kisco, NY 10549. Periodical postage paid at Mount Kisco, NY and additional mailing offices. Manufactured and printed in the USA. Reprints: You must obtain permission to reproduce any material. Postmaster: Please send address changes to Wine Enthusiast, P.O. Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142.0234.

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editor’sletter

NAPA MOUNTAIN HIGH

Head to the hills to discover some of this famous region’s best bottles.

YOU’LL FIND AMAZING TA S T I N G R O O M S A N D G E M S PA C K E D I N TO N O O KS A N D CRANNIESYOU’VE L I K E LY N E V E R E X P LO R E D.

42, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone reveals the best experience-driven places in which to taste, sup and sleep throughout the valley. Steve Heimoff ’s article on page 50 outlines why Napa should be just as famed for its eclectic whites as it is for its robust reds. Similarly, our wine-pairing guide to that warm-weather staple, the raw bar, offers unique approaches to the fresh seafood that so defines the season. Check out the mouthwatering combinations chosen by Lifestyle and Entertaining Editors Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen on page 62. Also in this issue, Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe tackles the hot debate over subzones in Montalcino, home to Italy’s famed Brunello (page 56). Does understanding subzones help you choose a better bottle? O’Keefe talks to producers on both sides of the fence about why (or why not) knowing the GPS coordinates of the vineyard is vital. Cheers!

ADAM STRUM EDITOR & PUBLISHER

COMING NEXT MONTH CHAMPAGNE FOR ALL Summer’s celebratory occasions call for the best bubbly you can afford. Get our picks in each price tier.

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COMPLETE GUIDE TO CHILI These wine-friendly recipes will change the way you see this perennial favorite. Plus, the right way to make and serve it.

THE MUSIC ISSUE Many popular musicians are seriously into wine. Learn all about them and their vinous obsessions.

RICHARD FREEDA , MONICA STEVENSON

F

inding the road less traveled is a passion of mine, and in my personal and professional travels, I seek out experiences that are fresh and surprising. That’s not to say I always travel to unknown destinations. There are discoveries to be made in tried-and-true places, too. Napa, an obvious draw for me, is a perfect example. While I love iconic Napa experiences like tasting along the Silverado Trail, lunching on the patio at Auberge du Soleil, and hot-air ballooning over the vineyards, heading off the path and up the mountain roads of Napa is how I get my offthe-grid fix. Whether you climb to the heights of Mount Veeder or venture up roads in the Howell Mountain, Diamond Mountain, Spring Mountain or Coombsville AVAs, you’ll find amazing tasting rooms and gems packed into nooks and crannies you’ve likely never explored. CADE, Lakoya, Constant, Kuleto Estate… these are just a few of the incredible producers offering the kind of intense fruit for which the mountains of Napa have become known. Rediscovering Napa is the focus of two features in this month’s issue. On page

winemag.com CLICK. DISCOVER. CONNECT.

LEFTOVER WINE RECIPES

REWINED

HASHTAGWEdrink

Waste not! If you’ve popped one too many bottles at your last bash and you’re confronted with leftover wine that’s gone flat—we’ve got just the recipes for you. We tapped top chefs and beverage pros for tips on how to put that precious grape juice to good use. winemag.com/leftoverwine

Spottswoode

In honor of our feature about Napa’s top white wines (page 50), @WineEnthusiast tweeted at our editors: “What Napa whites did you enjoy while on your last trip to California?”

Truchard 2012 Roussanne —@suskostrzewa SUSAN KOSTRZEWA, EXECUTIVE EDITOR

I always love Spottswoode SB —@vboone VIRGINIE BOONE, CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, CALIFORNIA

One of my favorite #PNV14 lots was a barrel-fermented SB from

The onions in this decadent jam, created by chef Alex Guarnaschelli, are caramelized in red wine, then sautéed with a dash of honey and vinegar.

@lailvineyards —@JoeCz JOE CZERWINSKI, MANAGING EDITOR

TACOS THAT TANTALIZE Tacos are the ultimate Cinco de Mayo food. In celebration of the upcoming Mexican fiesta, we asked our Instagram followers to post a photo of their go-to #TacoPairings. Here are some of our favorite mouthwatering snapshots.

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@hi_spots

@mattiej

@simonshinyo

out&about

EMILY DRYDEN

BAJA MEETS NYC OPENING PARTY, AT HOTEL AMERICANO To celebrate the exciting wines coming out of Mexico, Wine Enthusiast and The Latin Kitchen hosted winemakers from Valle de Guadalupe for a threeday series. The events included tastings, dinners and parties and helped further expose this up-andcoming New World region to New York City and the world.

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Wines made passionately for your table. California vintner Jerry Lohr and the extended J. Lohr family invite you to celebrate the acclaimed tastes of Monterey and Paso Robles, captured from the vineyard to your table, in every glass of J. Lohr Estates wine.

© 2014 J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, San Jose, CA

ourcrush THIS MONTH

THE FARMER’S MARKET COCKTAIL CLUB Whether on your plate or in your punch bowl, nothing can top the flavors of freshly plucked produce. So when picking over the colorful bounty at your weekend greenmarket, don’t just think midweek meals—consider what may mix well with a 12-year-old whiskey, or what to infuse in vodka or gin. We’ve tapped some of the best minds in mixology to help inspire you to think “drink” when at the stands. Welcome to the Farmer’s Market Cocktail Club.

WINEMAG.COM | 15

TIME TO DRINK YOUR VEGETABLES Here are nine delicious, easy-to-make greenmarket cocktail recipes. RADISH • Miso Mule (BAR CONGRESS, AUSTIN, TX) 1½ oz Yamazaki Whisky 1 red radish, cut into chunks 1 tsp light miso paste ½ oz honey syrup 3 oz San Pellegrino

For syrup, combine equal parts honey and hot water, let cool. For the drink, shake all but the soda, strain over fresh ice. Top with soda and radish.

Limonata soda

CUCUMBERS • Queen’s Cup (ROUGE TOMATE, NEW YORK CITY) Pinch of mint 2 oz Pimm’s 1 oz cucumber purée 1 oz lemonade ¾ oz lemon juice

Muddle all but the soda, shake with ice, and strain into glass with fresh ice. Top with soda, cucumber slice and mint sprig

2 oz soda water

LAVENDER • The Lavender (HILLTOP KITCHEN, TACOMA, WA) 1 sprig lavender ½ oz simple syrup 1½ oz vodka ½ oz lemon juice, fresh ½ oz coconut cream

Muddle lavender and syrup, then shake everything with ice. Strain, garnish with lemon.

LETTUCE • Gordon’s Healthy Lunch (FORAGERS CITY TABLE, NEW YORK CITY) 2 oz Dorothy Parker Gin ½ oz mix of arugula and Boston lettuce ¾ oz lime juice ¾ oz simple syrup

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Juice lettuce. Shake everything with ice. Strain over fresh ice.

PEAS • Awww Snap (ROAST, DETROIT) 1½ oz sugar snap pea-infused gin ¾ oz lemon juice, fresh ½ oz simple syrup ½ oz Dolin Blanc Vermouth 2 dashes celery bitters

For the infused gin, combine 1 cup of sugar snap peas and 3 cups of gin. Refrigerate for two days and strain. For the drink, shake everything with ice. Strain over fresh ice.

CILANTRO • Mango En Fuego Paloma (BACKSTREET CAFÉ, HOUSTON) 1½ oz mezcal ½ oz lime juice Pinch of chile powder 1 tsp cilantro, roughly chopped

Stir everything but the soda in a collins glass. Add soda and ice. Pour into a shaker then back into the glass. Garnish with lime.

6 oz mango soda

BEETS • Action Bronson (POURING RIBBONS, NEW YORK CITY) 1¼ oz Irish Whiskey ¾ oz Plum Brandy ¼ oz beet juice

Shake everything with ice. Pour over fresh ice. Garnish with orange peel.

½ oz lime juice ½ oz grapefruit juice ½ oz simple syrup

CELERY • Celery “Bubbly” Cocktail (FORK RESTAURANT, PHILADELPHIA) ½ oz Cynar ½ oz Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur ¼ oz white verjus 1½ oz celery water

Purée a celery stalk and strain through cheesecloth. Stir everything with ice. Garnish with celery frond.

TOMATO & ROSEMARY • Breakfast for Dinner (THE BOILER ROOM, CHICAGO) 2 oz tomato water 1 sprig rosemary 1½ oz aquavit

For the tomato water, chop tomatoes and press through cheesecloth. For the drink, muddle everything, shake with ice, strain. Top with a cucumber slice and pinch of smoked salt.

WINEMAG.COM | 17

MONICA STEVENSON; STYLING: LINDEN ELSTRAN

3 oz Brut sparkling wine

thecrush WINE IQ

SOLVING THE LEFTOVER WINE DILEMMA To help you with this confounding problem, we polled our editors and other wine pros on the best ways to preserve the last few glasses of your open bottle.

RECORK IT RIGHT The first rule of preserving your wine is to replace the cork correctly. While the “clean” side may seem easier to fit in the bottle, resist. The stained side has already been exposed to the wine, and it tasted fine. That “clean” side may not be so clean, and it can taint what you’re planning to drink in a day or two.

USE HALF BOTTLES Air flattens your wine, lessening flavors and aromas. To minimize air exposure, use a funnel to pour the remaining vino into a screw-cap half bottle. Even if there’s a little air at the top, it’s far less than in a regular bottle.

REFRIGERATE IT It’s amazing how often people will keep leftover wine on the counter after they’ve recorked it. You wouldn’t do that with food, so don’t with wine. The cool temp can’t stop exposed wine from breaking down, but it can slow the process significantly.

DON’T “OPEN” IT If popping high-end bottles is what you call Wednesday (or you’re itching to taste those gems in your cellar), it may be time for a Coravin. This device, which looks much like a Rabbit opener, pierces the cork with a needle and tops the bottle with argon gas. Pour what you want, remove the needle and the cork will seal naturally. Many restaurants use it to sell topshelf wines by the glass. $299, wineenthusiast.com

FINISH IT Look, there are roughly five glasses of wine in a regular 750-ml bottle. If you and yours have two glasses each and split that last glass—all while eating a decent-sized dinner—it’s not bad. In fact, according to recent studies, 1–3 glasses a day may improve your heart health. —Mike Dawson

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DRINK ITALIAN

The California Way.

www.ferrari-carano.com Ferrari-Carano Vineyards & Winery Healdsburg, CA • 800.831.0381

thecrush WINE TREND

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS The new generation of young winemakers and drinkers are bent on making the wine world not only more accessible and more fun, but actually cool—and this bottle featuring the work of legendary graffiti artist Cope2 is a colorful sign of this welcome shift. In collaboration with 67Wine store in New York City, Bronx-born Cope2 created a work for this limited bottling of Bodegas Luzón’s 2009 La Caldera, a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Monastrell from Jumilla in Spain. Whether you like the juice or not, the label reminds us we’re trending toward a less stuffy era in wine.

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thecrush Q+ A

SCRIBE WINERY’S ANDREW MARIANI Since opening in 2009, the owners and vintners Andrew and Adam Mariani—and their stylish, photoready wine feasts—have been featured in GQ, Paper and countless design magazines and blogs. But what’s caught the eye of California producers isn’t the buzz, it’s that Scribe is part of a growing revolution of young winemakers who are sharing their wine in intimate settings (no giant tasting rooms, please) and pulling off one of the hardest feats in wine: Creating leagues of loyal fans.

THE BROTHERS SCRIBE Andrew, left, with his brother, and co-vintner Adam.

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Your relaxed hillside tastings are so popular. What made you decide to buck the tasting room trend? We actually weren’t reactionary at all. We were inspired by those unique experiences we’ve had on more rustic wineries in California and Europe. You walk up to these little wineries, hang with the winemaker, nothing formal, and really feel connected to the place. Coming from a California farming background, we thought maybe we can just strip all the BS away, and not have anything fancy

and just be a farm and be honest and authentic about what we’re doing here and share that. The reality of farming—the work, the land—is what my brother and I always thought was so cool, so we stay true to that. Yeah, and farms usually don’t have grand tasting rooms. It’s cool if you want to go to a tasting room bar—I love going to bars. It’s just not for us here. Some do it so amazingly well, but yeah in general we think it’s hard to appreciate wine’s real story in that kind of setting. If you take away the faux chateau, the fancy brochure and big tasting rooms and whatever romance that’s trying to sell, you’re left with the real, honest story: How this wine came to be. For me, and a lot of folks, that’s the real romance of wine. Have people tried to bite your style or recreate what you guys are doing? We definitely have people from other, larger wineries come here and ask questions, which we love. First, it’s such a big compliment because we’re hardly the first winery trying to stay true to being a farm first. Second, if more and more California wineries are offering cool, unique experiences, we think it’s great. There’s a good conversation happening right now in California about winemaking style and how wine is shared with people. I think how it’s shared is shifting, and we feel lucky and so honored to even be a part of that conversation. —Mike Dawson

ALLEN ZEPEDA

You’ve said before how some producers share wine is often out of context with how a lot of people want to experience it. In my opinion, the best way to experience wine is sitting down with somebody and eating, drinking and talking. That’s why wine is so amazing—it brings people to the table, and is one of the few ways people relate to the natural world. Man, that sounds super cheese ball, but it’s the truth, and really what it’s all about. We’re actually just doing what we’d want if we walked up to a winery. And that means sitting and connecting and having fun with people at a simple table under an oak tree, with a few bottles of wine, a little plate of food and some music. I mean, we’re so lucky to live and work on this amazing farm. We just try to have a good time, make good decisions and make quality stuff. I think if you’re doing that, people are going to want to be a part of it.

thecrush THE WINE LIFE

SPRING VIN Our editors handpicked the perfect wines to help you mark these glorious rites of the season.

PLANTING YOUR GARDEN Donkey & Goat 2012 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley), $35 Unearth  this refreshingly  light Chardonnay—with its crisp layers of green apple and lemon, and intriguing hints of Asian spices—which pairs well with the rich scent of overturned soil. So, be sure to sip it while still in your muddy gear, or better yet, downwind from your garden.

THAT FIRST BIG TROUT OF THE YEAR Dog Point 2010 Chardonnay (Marlborough), $38 The spring runoff made wading uncomfortably cold, but you stuck it out, and fooled that fish with a No. 12 stonefly emerger. Celebrate by dusting the fillets in cornmeal, then sauté and finish with pat of brown butter. This wine echoes the nuttiness and the acid balances the butter.

OPENING YOUR SUMMER HOUSE Pieropan 2011 La Rocca (Soave Classico), $30 Intense but refined, this Soave boasts layers of tropicalfruit flavors, alongside almond and light spice. These fruit flavors and the underlying mineral notes will harmonize well as the dust scent and stale air are at last swept away by the fresh-air breezes from your newly-open windows.

FIRST ALFRESCO BRUNCH Robert Weil 2012 Tradition Riesling (Rheingau), $20 There may be no better match for sunrays and spring's awakening than an ultra-clean-cut, citrus-scented Rheingau Riesling. Every sip refreshes, and with its rounded fruitiness this number plays well with all your brunch staples. Bonus: It's low in alcohol, so a second bottle may be in order.

MEMORIAL DAY COOKOUT Sweet and spicy red-fruit aromas and leather come to play in this big-boned, ripe Syrah. Flavors of black fruits, toast, coconut and chocolate announce plenty of oak, while the rich, persistent finish is just bright enough to cut through that prized piece of charred Angus.

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MONICA STEVENSON

Koyle 2009 Royale Syrah (Colchagua Valley), $26

This is not just a Prosecco. It’s Mionetto.

C A M PA I G N F I N A N C E D AS PER THE C O U N C I L R E G U L AT I O N (EC) NO. 1234/07

thecrush ENTERTAINING

ENDLESS VACATION

Your humblebrag shots on Instagram don’t tell the whole story. To truly share your getaway glow with friends, bring home a curated slice of hosting heaven. Skip the duty-free shop and scout out more intimate entertaining-friendly conversation pieces like these.

FRANCE > French Linens

THE CARIBBEAN > Scotch Bonnet Pepper Sauce

Those bright blue and sunflower yellow

Each island has its own special

tablecloths of Provence will always

hot sauce, but look for those

be classic, but if your tastes are more

made with Scotch bonnets,

modern, seek out Côté Bastide, a

among the hottest peppers on the

purveyor of high-end home goods. With

planet. Stir some into your jerk rub

stores in Paris and Aix-en-Provence,

and chutney for an island-style

it boasts French linens in soft breezy

barbecue, or add a dash or two

colors that will remind you of days

into your bloody mary and treat

lounging on the beach looking out on

your friends to tropical brunch. A

the Mediterranean, or in the shade of an

few drops work well with oysters,

olive tree soaking in the lavender fields.

and with a little mayo, it's great for topping crab cakes or pork sliders.

TURKEY > Tea Trays In the Grand Bazaar and restaurants of Istanbul, waiters bearing long-handled brass tea trays whizz by, never spilling a single drop. Great for bringing drinks to the yard or terrace, these hardy trays won’t tip even as you navigate stairs. They’re also beautiful enough to hang on the wall or use as a table centerpiece.

MEXICO > Molcajete Carved from a single piece of volcanic rock, a molcajete—originally used by the Aztecs to

SPAIN > Pimentón

grind corn—is an indispensible tool for mashing

Small tins of pimentón, or paprika, will

guacamole. The rough surface releases the

add Iberian flair to your next dinner party.

flavors of tomato, onion, cilantro and chilies

Tins marked dolce are sweet paprika;

before you add the avocado. Preparing

picante indicates heat. Spanish paprika

tableside is a fun way to showcase your

lends its rich red-orange color and smoky

culinary skills. Serve them alongside

flavors to paella, patatas bravas and

zesty white wine from producers like

sizzling shrimp with garlic and olive oil.

Casa de Piedra, Paralelo or Monte Xanic

The small, brightly colored cans are also

from Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe in Baja

great keepsakes. Look for the tins from Santo Domingo or El Colorin.

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California. —Mike DeSimone & Jeff Jenssen

ELEGANCE BRILLIANTLY CAPTURED. Clos Du Val’s estate-grown Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon brilliantly captures our hallmark finesse, elegance, and complexity. It represents over 40 years of distinctive, terroir-driven winemaking in a single bottle.

©2014 Clos Du Val, Napa, California

thecrush DINING TREND

FLOUR POWER The next ingredient to get the artisanal treatment in cutting-edge kitchens: baking flour. Whether this makes your mouth water or your eyes roll, here’s your proverbial Cliffs Notes on this new-age miller’s tale.

W

hen Jared Van Camp, the owner and executive chef of Nellcôte Chicago, walked away from the 2009 Slow Food conference in Turin, Italy, he had an ambitious goal: to make the most authentic pizza stateside. To do that, he knew store-bought flour wouldn’t cut it. “I was intrigued by the fact that in Italy, the flour used in restaurants was local to them,” he says. “Pizzerias in America were using that same flour, but the amount of miles and the carbon footprint inherent in that process didn’t make sense to me.” He searched locally, but came up short.

Searching for Superfine Finely ground double-zero flour is the key to proper pizza, so Van Camp had a North Carolina company build a custom flour mill with a pneumatic sifter that could yield those superfine results. In his restaurant’s basement, Van Camp uses this stone contraption daily to transform heritage wheat sourced from regional farmers into fresh batches of high-quality flour. In addition to his pizza crust, the flour also makes its way into house-baked baguettes, brioche and focaccia, and all the pastas.

Grain Solos Cooking requires consistency, one of the key benefits when you reach for a 5-pound sack of Gold Medal. Yet hand-milling (after a little practice) provides the same benefit, but with flavors that are fresh, more nuanced and truly original. Bob Klein, owner of Oliveto, in Oakland, feels so strongly about the cooking benefits of small-batch flour that he formed his own small milling collective, called Community Grains, in 2007. The mill churns out whole-grain pastas and stone-milled flour for his and a handful of other restaurants. “There is so little information about wheat out there: how was it farmed, who milled it, what was the temperature of the wheel,” Klein

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says. “With the flour you buy in the supermarket, or from a distributor, all you know is that the sack will behave like the last one.”

The Terroir of Wheat Flour milling is also gaining traction for its connection to the past, says Cathy Whims, chef/ owner of Nostrana in Portland, Oregon. “Getting closer to the source ties into the idea of slow food and finding a real-life connection to our history,” she says. “I was in Calabria recently, and was reminded that we always consider and grasp the idea of wine terroir, but not food terroir, which is what every family instills up there. They know: where it grows is hugely important to how it will taste”

Grist Gripes At Taquitoria, a gourmet taquito shrine on New York’s Lower East Side, partner Brad Holtzman takes a more cynical view of these artisanal inclinations, comparing them to Hollywood’s oversaturated film industry. “It’s rare to see something on the big screen that is essentially a new concept,” he says. “That’s why filmmakers are happy to take a successful film, and remake it with their spin. Farm-to-table re s t a u ra n t s , burger joints W E A LW AY S and modernist CONSIDER WINE’S concepts have TERROIR, BUT been opening and closing N E V E R T H E T E R R O I R OF FOOD. for decades.” Still, he admits these locavore leanings won’t disappear anytime soon. “Like movie studios, restaurateurs are taking a successful product like flour and are improving it—or at least trying to,” Holtzman says. “And if the market supports it, I guess don’t knock the hustle.” —Alia Akkam

IN HOUSE RESTAURANTS WHERE NEXT-LEVEL ARTISANAL INGREDIENTS ARE BEING BORN + NOMA, COPENHAGEN

The Ingredient: Spices made from woodruff and seaweed + GREY PLUME, OMAHA

The Ingredient: Buttermilk cheese + BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE CO., SAN FRANCISCO

The Ingredient: Sea salt made from San Francisco Bay water

thecrush RECIPE OF THE MONTH

GREEN SYMPHONY Mixed with fennel flowers and mustard greens, this vert-hued fava bean salad from Chef Roberto Ivan from Piccolo Venice in Venice Beach, California, strikes the perfect harmony between sweet, bitter and earthy.

FAVA BEAN SALAD WITH CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE 8 ounces fresh fava beans 1

bunch fennel flowers

1

bunch mustard greens

Pinch of salt and pepper 1

tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons wild flower honey 6 tablespoons Champagne vinegar 4 tablespoons olive oil

Clean and shell the fava beans. Place in a pot over high heat and boil for 3–5 minutes. Drain the beans and place into an ice bath. Allow to cool, then drain. Set aside. Rinse the fennel flowers, then toss together the fava beans, fennel flowers and mustard greens in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. To make the dressing, mix together Dijon mustard, honey and Champagne vinegar. Slowly pour in the olive oil while whisking until well combined. Pour over the salad and toss well. Finish with Pecorino cheese. Serves 2. —Alexis Korman

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

THE POUR Pietro Biondi, sommelier at Piccolo Venice, recommends Ermes Pavese’s 2011 Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle from Italy’s Valle d’Aosta. “The palate is fruity with a pleasant, fresh finish,” says Biondi. “It’s excellent for an apéritif and matches well with this salad.”

MONICA STEVENSON; STYLING: LINDEN ELSTRAN

2 ounces Pecorino cheese, shredded

thecrush COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

STRANGE BREW When we heard Matthew Biancaniello, bartender at Pot Lobby Bar in Los Angeles, was slinging a drink with hops-infused vodka and, um, carrot juice, we rolled our eyes. Then we sipped it. Savory yet subtly sweet, the mix of veggie juice, acidic lime and earthy hops creates a flavor that literally tastes the way a spring vegetable garden smells. Look out bloody mary, there’s a new brunch drink on the menu.

THE HOPS COCKTAIL 2

ounces Anchor Distilling Hophead Hop Vodka

2

ounces fresh carrot juice

¾

ounce fresh lime juice

¾

ounce agave syrup

Pinch of sea salt, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine all the ingredients with ice, except salt. Shake vigorously, and strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a pinch of sea salt on top.

ABOUT THE BAR Part of Roy Choi’s Pot restaurant inside The Line Hotel, Pot Lobby Bar is a must-visit for any cocktail aficionado. Be prepared to have your palate challenged well beyond mere carrot juice, with drinks infused with sea-urchin roe and even a

MEG BAGGOTT; CARRIE SHALTZ

Soju-kimchi mash-up.

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

Limited Production

The Great American Whiskey www.michters.com MICHTER’S DISTILLERY LLC ★ LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY

thecrush DESTINATION

WHERE BARTENDERS GO TO DRINK IN NYC

To help you navigate beyond the blogs, guidebooks and Yelp, we asked mixology master Naren Young—beverage director at Empellón, who’s also helmed bars at Saxon + Parole, The Dutch and The Daily—to share where he and his brethren like to go when off-duty. Here’s his insider’s guide to boozing in the Big Apple. Wine

The Daily Dutch Kills

Ten Bells

If you blink, you might easily pass by tiny Ten Bells wine bar. With an ever-rotating chalkboard of wines, ask for what they have off-menu and you’ll be treated to a pour that’s fun and often unusual. One of five in the city, Terroir in the East Village is the brainchild of local wine legend Paul Grieco, whose love for Riesling is unmatched in Gotham. Let the super-learned staff be your guide. Rooted in making wine accessible to all, Corkbuzz is part wine bar, part wine school. Come after 10 pm for half-price bottles of Champagne and you’ll likely overhear the city’s top sommeliers talking shop and dissecting each sip. While it should be on your list of places to eat, Maialino, in the Gramercy Park Hotel, has a treasure trove of Italian wine at its bar. Check out sommelier Jeffrey Kellogg’s occasional by-the-glass verticals.

Cocktails (Manhattan)

Attaboy

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

PDT (Please Don’t Tell) has garnered as much attention for its secret phone-booth entrance as for its cocktails. The order: the Benton’s Old Fashioned, made with bacon fat. Yes, bacon fat. What was once Milk & Honey— the bar that started the whole neo-speakeasy craze in 2000—is now Attaboy, which boasts one of the best drinks in the city: bartender Sam Ross’s Scotch-based Penicillin. The Dead Rabbit is the most buzzed-about bar on the planet right now among pro drink slingers. The must-have: Combatant. Even the city’s most hardened cocktail nerds can’t get bored with The Daily, my alma mater, since the entire menu changes, as the name implies, daily.

The Dead Rabbit

MUST-TRYS 7B Attaboy Basik Clover Club Corkbuzz Daddy O's Dead Rabbit Dutch Kills Long Island Bar Maialino Maison Premiere Mother's Ruin Old Town Ten Bells Terroir The Daily

Maison Premiere

7B 7B

MELISSA HORN; ISAAC ROSENTHAL; PETER SYLVESTER; ELLEN SILVERMAN

Cocktails (Brooklyn & Queens) Julie Reiner—NYC’s reigning mixology maven—forecasted Brooklyn’s thirst for serious cocktails when she opened Clover Club in Carroll Gardens in 2008. At Sunday brunch, try the bacon sampler and any of her cobblers. Just down the street, Long Island Bar, owned by writer and veteran bartender Toby Cecchini, is a simple, no-nonsense affair with killer Boulevardier cocktails. Some of the freshest oysters in New York are at Maison Premiere, where at happy hour, you can devour bivalves for $1 a pop. The Carondelet cocktail, with a tiny pinch of salt, is the perfect foil. Drink No. 2: any Julep on the menu. Basik, in Williamsburg, is a modest bar catering to locals and barkeeps who enjoy the simple pleasure of a well-made classic, like the negroni. Tip: There’s a hidden courtyard out back. Dutch Kills, in Long Island City (only a 15-minute subway ride from Midtown), is one of the darlings of the bartender world. It’s technically in Queens, which scares off the snobs, leaving a crowd of locals and cocktail geeks. Bartenders make their own block ice and ice-pick it for each drink.

Beer, etc. Mother’s Ruin has become the bartender’s post-shift hang, since it’s open until 4 am and serves grub until last call. Try the clam juice-

free Micheladas. 7B is one of the last authentic dives in New York. At the horseshoe-shaped bar, you get cheap beer, shots and a surly staff. Grab a P.H.O. Real sandwich from nearby bodega Sunny & Annie’s and bring it in. It’s the only food you’ll get here. Old Town has been open since 1892, so they’re clearly doing something right. Any visit should include a shot of Old Granddad, a Guinness (one of the purest in the city) and its lauded bacon cheeseburger—in that order. Brave Daddy O’s cranked-up-to-11 music and you’ll be rewarded with a great beer list and one of the best American whiskey menus in town. You won’t see them on the menu, but order the cheese-and-jalapeño tater tots.

Old Town

Maialino

WINEMAG.COM | 35

Special Specia cial P Promotion r om m o tion on

GÉRARD BERTRAND

South of France’s Leading Man

A

highly successful winemaker and international businessman, Gérard Bertrand has an athletic build and bearing. Tall, with a mane of unruly hair, a serious demeanor and piercing eyes, he cuts an imposing figure, but ask him about his southern French roots and his natural warmth shines through: “I was born and raised here in Languedoc, so the Mediterranean way of life is deep in my soul, it translates into all the wines I make,” he responds. The range of wines is as impressive as its creator, spanning varietals, blends, fortified, sparkling, organic and sulfitefree wines from across the vast and varied region of Languedoc-Roussillon. Gérard was given his first taste of grapeharvesting aged 10 by his father Georges at the family estate of Domaine de Villemajou, in Boutenac. Here, surrounded by rocky, sun-baked scrubland dotted with wild rosemary and thyme, father and son shared their passion for wine for over fifteen years. “The unique taste of aged wines made from hundred-year old Carignan, Syrah and Grenache vines is something I will never forget,” muses Gérard. On his father’s death, Gérard took over and continued the work of enhancing the quality and expressing the character of the 140 hectares (345 acres) and their ancient Carignan vines– a traditional Mediterranean variety that has found grace once again in the production of top Languedoc wines.

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Chateau l’Hospitalet

L’Hospitalitas

Ingrid, Emma, Gérard and Mathias Bertrand

Cigalus

Larzac area. Along with Villemajou and Domaine de la Soujeole in the Malepère area, these eight estates now comprise the heart of Gérard Bertrand’s winemaking operation, although he is quick to point out that “what we’re doing here is more than running a wine business, it’s a way of life.”

Indeed, it is the love of this laid-back, joyful Mediterranean lifestyle (shared with his wife Ingrid and two teenage children) that motivates this unofficial ambassador of the south of France wines. “We’re fortunate to live 90 minutes from Pyrenean ski resorts and only five minutes from

GÉRARD BERTRAND ESTATES TOP WINES

A gifted sportsman, in his early adult years Gérard played rugby at international professional level, reaching the peak of his career in 1993 as captain of the famous and successful Stade Français team in Paris. Although his stadium days are over, Gérard retains the drive and ambition of a top-level player, and no doubt it is this desire for excellence which continues to guide the Gérard Bertrand company he founded in 1992. Motivated by his visionary understanding of Languedoc’s potential, over the following decade he purchased selected estates the region’s very best wine-making areas: Domaine de Cigalus in Bizanet, Château Laville Bertrou in La Livinière, and in 2002, La Clape’s Domaine de l’Hospitalet, where he created a head office and an outstanding wine tourism destination that attracts 200,000 visitors from around the world annually. Recent years have seen the acquisition of Domaine de l’Aigle (Limoux), Château Aigues Vives (Corbières-Boutenac), and Château La Sauvageonne in the highly-prized Terrasses du

Special Promotion

golden, sandy beaches,” smiles Gérard, a keen chef and self-confessed BBQ ace who enjoys preparing fresh, locally-caught fish (sea bass and rock lobster are among his favorites).

WINE TOURISM AND CHÂTEAU L’HOSPITALET Kool & The Gang

WINES THAT REVEAL THEIR TERROIR If Gérard Bertrand wines are crafted to bring out the specific characteristics of each vineyard area and reflect Languedoc’s diversity, they also share a common identity: with their balance and elegance, they are an authentic expression of the south of France and speak of the outstanding quality of the sun-kissed soils which gave them birth. These wines aim to meet and exceed the expectations of wine lovers worldwide. Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot… each varietal wine gives a sensitive and true experience of the soil they grow in. The Terroir and Grand Terroir appellation wines, from specific appellation areas offer complexity and the imprint of terroir, that esoteric combination of vineyard characteristics, soil, climate and environment. The estates and single vineyards wines like Le Viala, La Forge and l’Hospitalitas are an illustration of Languedoc’s excellence, and the natural fortified and sparkling wines complement this exciting range of styles that offers wines to suit every palate and occasion. “I love wines with complexity and minerality, and the ability to age; wines with a message that really speak of their origins,” says Gérard, whose own creativity was partly inspired by several visits to Domaine de la Romanée Conti and tastings with owner Aubert de Villaine: “wine has this unique ability to help us understand culture and civilization,” he enthuses. When he’s not in the vineyard or working on the blending of his wines, Gérard Bertrand travels the world to promote his wines. He spends eight weeks every year in the US. where his wines are available nationwide. n It was during his first visit to Napa in 1988 that he saw how wine touris tourism was celebrated US-style,

Rosés R “Hap “Happily, in Languedoc we have ideal conditions for growing the Syrah, Grenache, grow Cinsault with which we make Cins wonderful rosés,” comments won Gérard, who is particularly Géra proud of his crystal-clear Gris prou Blanc (an original blend of Blan Grenache Gris and Noir with Gren a sh shimmering, ultra pale pink hue), “At the end of a balmy hue) summer’s day, a glass of chilled sum rosé is perfect as an apéritif, or w with oysters and shellfish, sushi or Asian food—it’s part of sush our way of life here.” Château La S Sauvageonne’s mineral rosé is ve very disctinctive, crafted from Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. Syra

T

en minutes from the ancient Roman city of Narbonne, Château l’Hospitalet is a 82 hectares vineyard surrounded by 1000 hectares of pine woods and rocky scrubland dotted with wild herbs; from its loftier vineyards visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the azure-blue Mediterranean sea. Although the origins of the site go back to the 6th century, the hotel, restaurant and tasting room offer the

ultimate in modern day comfort, ensuring unforgettable memories for those fortunate enough to sojourn here. Château l’Hospitalet showcases the very best of the Mediterranean lifestyle: fresh, local, seasonal fine food paired with carefully-crafted Gérard Bertrand wines. With their views across swathes of vines and a Mediterranean garden, the generouslyproportioned rooms embody charm and serenity.

and on his return to France he vowed to create his own project promoting Languedoc and its wine, gastronomy, culture, music and art: twelve years later, Château l’Hospitalet is the result of that vision. However, despite a hectic schedule and the demands of running one of the south of France’s most successful wine businesses, this former professional sportsman has never taken his eye off the ball. He remains a highly hands-on winemaker and is personally involved in the blending of each and every wine: “Every single bottle bears my name,” he confirms, explaining that the winemaking process is adapted each year, at each site, to suit the particular characteristics of the vintage. “At every stages in the production process we organize wine-tasting sessions to set the ideal moment for running the wine off from the vats and to get the blend right, with an eye on how the wine is likely to evolve,” he elaborates. “I taste the wines that are ready on a weekly basis,

Guests can take part in wine workshops and tastings in a friendly, relaxed atmosphere, or head off on foot or mountain bike to admire La Clape’s protected flora and fauna. In August, Château l’Hospitalet is host to worldfamous musicians who perform at its Jazz Festival, attracting an audience of hundreds. “Jazz is to music what the soil is to wine: it comes from the soul,” he comments.

and assemble them with my team. Each bottle that leaves our winery is an ambassador for the south of France, so it’s important that each is imbued with our message,” says this passionate perfectionist who demands the highest standards of excellence from his team and himself.

LEADING THE WAY IN LANGUEDOC Gérard Bertrand wines have received numerous awards for their excellent and consistent quality, and each year sees its harvest of medals from the major French and international wine competitions. In 2012, the group was awarded European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine, and Gérard Bertrand received in London the Best Red Winemaker Trophy at the International Wine Challenge.

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BUILDING SOUTH OF FRANCE’S WINES HISTORY

96 POINTS

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91 POINTS

91 POINTS

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TALKING TERROIR WITH

GÉRARD BERTRAND Your wines are from the Languedoc region’s most exciting wine-growing areas; how did this come about? The diversity of Languedoc’s soils and climate types never ceases to amaze me, and the desire to showcase them is something I inherited from my father Georges. I remember when I was a boy, walking with him in the Corbières surrounded by old Cathares Castles and vestiges of the Roman Civilization. His affinity for this land and its heritage were passed on to me. From there, I’ve never stopped looking at my region as a reserve of treasures. Can you describe these treasure areas and what makes them so special? Each area is peculiar! Can you imagine a region where fortified wines were invented in Roussillon and sparkling wines created by monks in Saint Hilaire Abbaye in 1531? Limoux vineyard is one of the highest in the Languedoc: the epitome of Chardonnay and Pinot

The celebrated CEO remains humble: “Making great wine is the result of paying utmost attention to 1001 tiny details, from the vineyard to the glass,” he comments, “but every year is different, and we have to be ever-vigilant. Naturally we’re delighted with these accolades, but it’s important to remain focused on our commitment to elaborate super premium world-class wines. This year we inaugurate a brand new winery.” This architectural masterpiece is fitted with state-of-the-art equipment. The project was

while In Pic Saint Loup the finesse of Syrah liaises with complexity of Grenache. In the huge limestone block of la Clape, wines are on the edge. Picpoul de Pinet is the name of an ancient Mediterranean varietal that gives its name to the appellation and to the village. In Château La Sauvageonne, Terrasses du Larzac, we benefit from the unlikely alliance between schist and volcanic soils. In Les Aspres, vineyards are located between the sea and the mountains and confer a surprising Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre blend. In Tautavel were found 450,000 year old archaeological remains of Homo erectus, so to say it is steeped in history is an understatement. Minervois is a kingdom for Syrah that benefits from the the freshness of the mountains. This is all the variety of Languedoc Roussillon I want to reveal in my wines. My oenothèque is now covering 3 centuries of History. Our oldest, Legend Vintage Rivesaltes is a 1875 vintage! Treasures need to be collected and kept for next generations.

entrusted to Jean-Frédéric Luscher–an architect who worked on the Dominus Estate in California– and designed in line with eco-construction principles. “Everything about this winery resembles us: it’s a perfect blend of tradition and modernity,” says Gérard Bertrand. No doubt that with 26 years of experience under his belt, this talented, driven yet spiritual player will continue to go from strength to strength. Moreover, a new project is announced to be revealed in June.

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ENVIRONMENT & BIODYNAMICS Gérard Bertrand has made a lasting commitment to the environment. Promoting biodiversity is key: 25 different grape varieties are grown across the Gérard Bertrand estates, along with a variety of trees such as olive and truffle oak. A sustainable development policy is in place, and sustainable, organic or biodynamic viticulture is practiced across all the Gérard Bertrand estates, with three (Domaine de Cigalus, Château La Sauvageonne and Château l’Hospitalet) biodynamic-certified or in conversion. “Ultimately, we want to farm all our estates according to biodynamic principles,” says Gérard, whose interest in this agricultural method was kindled by a meeting with a homeopathic doctor, the subsequent reading of biodynamics founder Rudolf Steiner’s text book and a 10-year series of experiments in the vineyard resulting in wines that have “more freshness, minerality and vibrancy,” according to their creator. With Domaine de Cigalus, Gérard Bertrand took quality to the extreme, setting the 185-acre estate on the ambitious road of biodynamics (Demeter certification was granted in 2010), and he has never looked back. “Protecting the environment, restoring balance and harmony to our ecosystems, fostering excellence in wine-growing techniques and thinking about the next generation are key issues for us,” says Gérard; as a father, he knows that the measures he puts in place today are part of his family’s future well-being.

viewpoint

DRINKING IN NAPA t the 2014 edition of Premiere Napa Valley, the region’s top trade event, more than 90 percent of the auction lots were big, hearty red wines. Of the 225 wines offered, only seven were white—including two sparklers—and seven were Pinot Noir. That adds up to a lot of tannin and, generally speaking, a fair bit off alcohol as well. To be fair, most visits to Napa aren’t quite that CabernetMORE THAN centric. Many wineries at least pour a Sauvignon Blanc or CABERNET a Chardonnay (sometimes both), which can help refresh ROBERT SINSKEY palates before diving into a lineup of red wines. VINEYARDS Still, the focus of almost any tasting trip to Napa will be $25 tasting includes four wines and small bites the region’s big reds, generally Cabernet Sauvignon. And after from the kitchen. a day of palate-staining tasting, you might be in the mood for something different come evening. NAPA SMITH BREWERY That’s certainly how I felt during a recent visit. Tours at 4 pm daily. Thankfully, the region’s restaurateurs seem to have Ten beers on tap. discovered the same thing. While most wine lists lean heavily GOOSE & GANDER on Napa offerings, many reach over the county line for their Extensive, inventive white wine offerings. Some restaurants do however feature cocktail list. Full menu. zesty local whites, like Sinskey’s Abraxas, a Carneros-grown blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer. Alternatively, visitors can do like the local winemakers do and refresh their palates with beer. Trumer Pils, originally from Austria but now made 40 minutes away in Berkeley, is the lightest, crispest local brew that visitors are likely to encounter. Even closer is Napa Smith Brewery, located across from the Napa airport. Its taproom is a bit out of the way if you’re in the heart of the valley, but the beers are available at numerous locations. Stop into Cantina on the main drag in St. Helena when you need the comfort off a Napa Smith Amber Ale served in a zero-pretension zone. Not a beer drinker? Aim your cocktail sights high at Goose & Gander (the former Martini House), also in St. Helena. Although star mixologist and 2013 Wine Enthusiast 40 Under 40 honoree Scott Beattie has joined Meadowood, the mixed-drinks program he started lives on. Exotic ingredients like Chinese five-spice powder and star anise mingle easily with fresh produce and Bay Area spirits from Hangar 1, St. George and Distillery No. 209, spun together in ingenious, palaterousing combinations. At almost every turn, Napa’s restaurants and bars offer exciting alternatives to the region’s wines, giving visitors even more reasons to drink in the valley.

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski has been visiting Napa since 1990, witnessing a world of change in the region’s culinary scene over the past 25 years.

ROBERT SINSKEY

Places to go when you need something different.

Hyde de Villaine

Solbar

Milliken Creek Inn & Spa

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

Lucy

An undiscovered world awaits wine lovers who venture off the valley’s beaten path. BY VIRGINIE BOONE P H O T O S B Y K AT I E N E W B U R N

PHOTO CREDIT

F

irst-time travelers to Napa Valley often appreciate the apparent simplicity of its infrastructure. Large, well-signed wineries line the backbone of Route 29, making each visit as easy as pulling into a driveway. But for seasoned visitors, as well as those seeking more authentic experiences closer to Napa’s rural roots, there are plenty of ways to get off the main drag. For one, the “valley” is home to as many mountains as pockets of valley floor. Those mountains, and their twisting side roads, are littered with vinous gold. At these small-scale wineries, a handful of people make the magic happen, but a polite phone call will often peel one of them away from their work. It’s a chance to taste through their wines and discover their individual dreams and terroirs. These experiences are worth savoring for their intimacy, proximity to one-of-a-kind vineyards and rare wine finds. The same applies to restaurants and inns, equally hidden away, which offer a chance to discover where the locals—or regulars, anyway— hang out. So turn on the GPS and turn off the highway. Here’s your guide to the roads less traveled.

Cain Vineyard & Winery

WINEMAG.COM | 43

Arkenstone Vineyards

Up the twistingly sloped, conifer-

lined narrows of Howell Mountain lies Arkenstone Vineyards, a relative newcomer that’s already making world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. Schedule an appointment to tour and taste ($45/ person), and enjoy structured Cabernet blends, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and the lovely, bone-dry Loupé Rose, made in miniscule quantities. The views of the valley are worth the price alone.

Larkmead Vineyards

Calistoga’s Larkmead is a respected

producer of allocated wines open by appointment daily from 10 am–3 pm. Taste the winery’s rare Tocai Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, a range of proprietary blends and the signature Firebelle, a Bordeaux-style blend ideal for cellaring.

Palmaz Vineyards

At Palmaz Vineyards in Napa, the

two-hour appointment includes a seated tasting with small hors d’oeuvres and a walk through the expansive caves (including the world’s largest underground reinforced structure, with a height of 54 feet and diameter of 72 feet) dug into the living rock of Mount George ($60/person). The gravity-flow winery and consultant Mia Klein make valley standards like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but also Riesling and Muscat Canelli.

Stony Hill Vineyard

On the rocky slopes of Spring

Mountain, Stony Hill is a breath of fresh air in a land of red wine. It’s a historic producer of elegant white wines, including crisp, minimally oaked, no-malolactic Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. Cabernet Sauvignon is a recent addition after 60 years of family ownership. Proprietor Willinda McCrea and longtime winemaker Mike Chelini give 90-minute tours and tastings ($45/person) at the ranch house by appointment Monday–Saturday from 9 am–3:30 pm. Hungry groups of four should consider the cooking classes ($175/person) by appointment from 11 am–3 pm.

The Grade Cellars

By definition, The Grade Cellars in

Calistoga is off the beaten path—its Winfield Vineyard is located on remote Old Toll Road Pass. Acclaimed winemaking consultant

Failla

Thomas Rivers Brown crafts The Grade Cabernet Sauvignon and

St. Helena

owners’ passion, the brand is named after a passage in Robert Louis

Sea-Fog Sauvignon Blanc from two single vineyards. Reflecting the Stevenson’s The Silverado Squatters. By appointment.

Failla, off the Silverado Trail in St. Helena, is personal project of Ehren Jordan, who toiled

Venge Vineyards

for years as the general manager/winemaker/

lies within the foothills of the Palisades Mountains. It’s the

viticulturalist at Turley Wine Cellars. Jordan

culmination of meticulous winemaking by Kirk Venge, who

makes Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, Pinot

learned the ropes from dad Nils. The focus is Cabernet Sauvignon,

Noir and Syrah, unlikely wines for this part

with smaller smatterings of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah.

of the world. Stop in, blow your mind and

Advance reservations are required to taste allocated wines at

freshen your palate. Tours and tastings are by

the winery ranch house, limited to eight guests at a time, from

appointment.

Wednesday–Sunday.

an unusual find in the Napa Valley. It’s the

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

Also in Calistoga, Venge Vineyards

Spottswoode St. Helena Another family-run winery, Spottswoode, occupies a very different setting near downtown St. Helena. The 90-minute tasting and tour ($50/person) includes stops at its estate vineyard, historic family home, gardens and “ghost winery” stone cellar. It offers tasters the chance to indulge in a more genteel side of the valley, plus supremely elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc.

Shafer Vineyards

Cain Vineyard & Winery

Hyde de Villaine

Stags Leap District

Spring Mountain

Napa

Shafer’s Hillside Select is one of Napa’s

Venture up to Cain Vineyard & Winery, remotely

Hyde de Villaine is unassumingly tucked

iconic Cabernet Sauvignons. Taste it

hidden atop Spring Mountain, to savor a view of

off a main road in downtown Napa. This

without being on the mailing list or

Napa’s valley floor from a western perspective.

partnership between Burgundy legend

dropping $300 by visiting family-run

Visitors are invited to climb Spring Mountain

Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la

Shafer Vineyards in the Stags Leap

Road to the even more winding Langtry Road

Romanée-Conti and long-respected

District. Tastings are by appointment

weekdays at 10 am and 11:30 am for a walk

Carneros grape-grower Larry Hyde

weekdays at 10 am and 2 pm ($55/

around the winery and tasting of current

produces gorgeously rendered Chardonnay,

person), limited to 10 guests at a time.

releases. Included is the estate’s signature Cain

Syrah and Belle Cousine, a blend of

The relaxed visits consist of five wines,

Five, a classic Bordeaux-style blend with plenty

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Tastings

including Hillside.

of mountain-hewn structure ($35/person).

by appointment.

WINEMAG.COM | 45

Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen St. Helena To eat where the locals eat, particularly winemakers, head to Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, situated literally on a back street behind the main drag in St. Helena. The combination of Chef Cindy Pawlcyn’s elevated comfort food (oysters, pork tacos, burgers, polenta fries and meatloaf), inspired list of wines (by the glass and halfbottle) and casual atmosphere is hard to beat.

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

tion caption caption

Lucy

caption caption cap-

Yountville

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Hidden in restaurant-heavy Yountville is Lucy Restaurant & Bar. Situated within the calming Bardessono Hotel, the menu and cocktails are inspired by the hotel garden and nearby purveyors, and the wine list focuses on smallproduction organic, sustainable and biodynamic

Farm

wines. The special, family-style Garden Table

Napa

around a chef-guided garden tour and cooking

Menu for 6–10 people is the star here, centered demonstration, followed by lunch or dinner.

Further off the grid is Farm Restaurant at The Carneros Inn outside of Napa, surrounded by Instagram-worthy swathes of vineyard and endless sky. Enjoy dinner near the fireplace or on the expansive patio—equally desirable destinations to take in a fresh cocktail or two or a glass of Carneros-made wine. It just feels like vacation.

Solbar

Alex Italian

Calistoga

Rutherford

For a true escape into swimming pool-and-palm-

In Rutherford, Alex Italian offers the chance to

tree-lined heaven, head to Solbar within the

indulge in fine Italian food in a small dining room,

confines of the Solage resort in Calistoga. Not only

just fancy enough to wear a tie or dress, but not

has the food deservedly earned a Michelin star,

otherwise ridiculously overstated. Grandly made

inspired by local, sustainably-farmed ingredients

pasta is on heavy rotation, with secondi centered

turned into California soul food, it’s the place to

on the likes of seared duck, wild-caught sea bass

while away an afternoon or early evening indulging

and Sonoma rabbit. The well-stocked half-

in ridiculously delicious cocktails (the Charbay

bottle list of Napa and international superstars

Green Tea Vodka-based Sex in the Valley is a

(Araujo, Opus One, Gaja) alone makes Alex well

favorite) or wines on tap. The wine list is inspired,

worth the stop—sample several from your wine

a place to discover small, local brands you haven’t

“bucket list.” The restaurant is attached to the

yet had the chance to try.

tranquil Rancho Caymus Inn, also worth a visit.

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Calistoga Ranch Calistoga Calistoga Ranch is hidden among the trees off a back road on the eastern edge of Calistoga. Sprawling over 157 acres, with 50 wellappointed rooms and lodges, spa services, forest and hiking trails, it’s a true getaway that’s not too removed from the action. The Lakehouse is the property’s onsite restaurant, overlooking Lake Lommel.

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

The Poetry Inn Stags Leap The Poetry Inn, perched atop a climbing Stags Leap District road, defines hideaway, a contrast to sister property Cliff Lede Vineyards down below. Rooms range from 960–1,450 square feet, with a three-course gourmet breakfast included in any stay. Rooms face west to take in the views of the Mayacamas range, and feature fine amenities like Italian linens, wood-burning fireplaces and outdoor showers. There’s an outdoor pool and hot tub, and much more. The entire property may be rented for larger groups or serious privacy.

The Poetry Inn

Milliken Creek Inn & Spa Napa Milliken Creek Inn & Spa lies hidden along the Silverado Trail behind the city of Napa along Milliken Creek. With 12 luxurious rooms, complimentary breakfast and soothing spa treatments, it emphasizes mental and physical renewal, a philosophy that includes wine, of course. The inn hosts the Magic Hour every night, a wine-and-cheese reception held at sunset, then pours premium Ports to close out the night. The Poetry Inn

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50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

NAPA’S

UNSUNG HEROES Though often overshadowed by the region’s big reds, Napa Valley’s top white wines shouldn’t be overlooked. BY

STEVE HEIMOFF

PHOTOS

FRÉDÉRIC LAGRANGE

lthough the second most planted grape variety in Napa is Chardonnay—and the region is famous for it—Napa’s white wines have often been knocked as lacking the fruit and vibrancy found in wines grown in cooler areas. foun And yet, these whites have a distinguished history. In the years following the repeal of A Prohibition, Napa Valley Sémillon, Sylvaner, Folle Blanche, Traminer, Pinot Blanc, SauPro vignon Blanc and many others, including Chardonnay, were esteemed on restaurant vig wine lists. w While great Napa Chardonnay remains rare, when it’s good, it’s very, very good. The same can be said of other Napa whites, especially Sauvignon Blanc, arguably the region’s most expressive white wine. Rhône-style white wines, including Viognier, are more questionable, but diligent searching will yield pay dirt. Among the aromatic whites like Albariño, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling and Pinot Gris/Grigio, at their best they display classic Napa elegance and balance. The catch? There aren’t a lot of them.

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Chardonnay The best Napa Chardonnays come from cool, southern sections—a broad corridor that stretches from Carneros through Oak Knoll and Coombsville. It reaches up into the southern Vaca Mountains, sweeps across the Stags Leap District and Yountville, and stretches up onto the slopes of Mount Veeder. It’s a stretch to assert that good Chardonnay can’t be grown north of Yountville or Stags Leap. Too many exceptions exist. Freemark Abbey has crafted fine versions from Howell Mountain, while Smith-Madrone’s bottlings from Spring Mountain have long been notable for their tight minerality. In the warmer parts of Napa’s flatlands, Chardonnay is pretty much a commodity grape, if grown at all. Carneros, with its wide-open exposure to the winds and fogs of San Pablo Bay, is the pivot point for Chardonnay in Napa Valley. Shafer’s Red Shoulder Ranch is a flagship, as are Chardonnays from Vine Cliff, Kazmer & Blaise, Baldacci, Donum, Patz & Hall, Pine Ridge, Failla and Artesa. These wines are marked not only by fruit, but crisp acidity and lingering minerality. These are streamlined wines, elegant rather than dramatic, that pair brilliantly with food. Ehren Jordan, who sources Chardonnay from the Hudson Vineyard for his Failla brand, doesn’t think that Carneros is quite as cool as people believe. “Compared to [Sonoma County’s] Petaluma Gap, it’s an oven,” he says. But Carneros’s deep clay soils, the result of the region’s estuarial origins along the shores of San Pablo Bay, play a key role in shaping the wines’ structures. The soils retain freshness in the grapes, even during heat waves that can exceed 100 degrees. Northeast of Carneros, Jarvis has one of Napa’s best track records for Chardonnay. The estate vineyard, in the Vaca Mountains south of Atlas Peak, has the perfect combination of warm days and cool nights. Chardonnay needs to ripen, yet retain mouthwatering acidity, and location plays a key role, says winemaker Ted Henry. “We’re close to San Pablo Bay, so we get that marine influence,” Henry says. Another fine Chardonnay from this region just north of the city of Napa is Signorello Estate’s Hope’s Cuvée bottling.

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The grapes come from the estate vineyard beside the Silverado Trail. While the resulting wine is lush in oak and lees, and creamy from full malolactic fermentation, a touch of Carneros briskness often shows up as saline minerality and keen acidity. Some of the best Napa Chardonnays are blends. Hunnicutt’s is a good example, combining fruit from a Coombsville vineyard with grapes from warmer Rutherford. Justin Stephens, the owner/winemaker, concedes that Rutherford, outside the “arc of coolness,” generally produces “insipid, flabby Chardonnay.” “But for some reason, our vineyard retains acidity, despite having fairly high pH,” he says. “It’s bizarre.” Stephens believes that the old vines used have become attuned to that environment. The Coombsville vineyard brings “a more linear component and a better acid profile,” he says, due to its more southerly location. “The two wines are pretty disparate, tasted on their own.” The combination of the two shows how divots from individual sites can be filled in through the art of judicious blending.

Napa’s Other White Wines Beyond Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, good bottlings tend to be individual efforts. While a winery might focus on a particular grape, success doesn’t generally translate to the valley as a whole. That doesn’t mean these wines aren’t worth seeking out. All of the following are worth trying—they may even become personal favorites. Albariño: Abrente, Artesa, Hendry Chenin Blanc: Ballentine, Chappellet Gewürztraminer: Stony Hill Grüner Veltliner: Von Strasser Malvasia Bianca: Ballentine Rhône-style blends: Krupp Brothers Riesling: Smith-Madrone, Stony Hill, Trefethen, V. Sattui Roussanne: Truchard Vermentino: Mahoney Viognier: Darioush, Freemark Abbey Other blends: Massican, Matthiasson, Robert Sinskey

Recommended Wines

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Jarvis 2012 Finch Hollow Estate Grown Cave Fermented Unfiltered Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This starts off oaky, which is understandable given that it was aged in 100% new French barrels. Then the acidity and lees hit you, a welcome parry to the woody sweetness. Lurking just below the surface are mango, pineapple, peach, kumquat and lime fruit flavors, as ripe as any Chardonnay on the market. It’s a flashy, opulent wine, but young. One of the few Chards that deserves a Cellar Selection designation, it will show better after 2016. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $130

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Failla 2011 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This precisely crafted wine lifts Carneros Chardonnay to a whole new level. Yes, it’s pricy, but it’s so complex and decadent that it’s worth it. The alcohol is refreshingly low, the acidity is bright, and there’s a lick of steel to balance the nectarine and mango fruit, buttered-toast and cream flavors. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

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Jeff Hill 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Here’s an example that Napa Valley really can produce great Chardonnay. It’s a terrific wine, utterly dry and crisp, with a flinty minerality and lime, peach and green-apple flavors. It was largely barrel-fermented, but the oak never feels heavy or tastes sweet. Instead, it provides a subtle perfume throughout. Don’t drink this wine too cold, or you’ll miss the nuances. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

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Shafer 2011 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay (Carneros). A huge Chardonnay, so full-bodied and rich, it’s almost like a red wine, but that’s the Red Shoulder personality. With flavors of buttercream, jammy tropical fruit, orange custard, vanilla, buttered toast and brown sugar, it would be over the top, except for vibrant acidity and a deep minerality. Drink now–2017. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

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Pine Ridge 2010 Le Petit Clos Chardonnay (Stags Leap District). Very rich and dramatic—the grapes used for this wine were grown in a tiny, cool block of the estate in this corner of Cabernet country. It’s full yet balanced, with crisp acidity, tangy minerality and lots of ripe tropicalfruit flavors. This did not undergo malolactic fermentation. abv: 14.2% Price: $65

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Hunnicutt 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Known as a Cabernet specialist, Hunnicutt also knows Chardonnay, as evidenced by a string of successes since 2008. The 2012 is a rich, rewarding wine. It’s extraordinarily ripe in peach, green-apple and tropical-fruit flavors. The grapes were sourced from cool Coombsville and warm Rutherford, giving the wine exceptional balance. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

Sauvignon Blanc Without an extra kick of sunshine, Sauvignon Blanc can have unpleasant vegetal aromas. Overcropping, which often exists with commodity Sauvignon Blanc, accentuates the problem, sacrificing quality for quantity. Although important exceptions exist, Napa’s southern arc of Chardonnay country is too cool for Sauvignon Blanc. The best sites are further northwest and inland—the western benches extending from Oakville and Rutherford, hopping across Highway 29 into the Rutherford flats and up to Calistoga. After tinkering with a barrel-fermented style in the 1990s that largely didn’t work, vintners have developed a more hands-off approach to Sauvignon Blanc. They pick earlier to maintain freshness and acidity, expose the wines to only limited oak and sometimes fatten them up with a little Sémillon. Many like to put Sauvignon Blanc through malolactic fermentation, but as consumer tastes have swung toward crispness, winemakers increasingly block it. The Oakville bench is home to the fabled To Kalon Vineyard. Robert Mondavi’s head of winemaking, Geneviève Janssens, says that while To Kalon is more famous for Cabernet Sauvignon, the vineyard’s gravelly, welldrained soil gives freshness and minerality to Sauvignon Blanc. But it’s also her winemaking technique that elevates and expresses the terroir. “We always put a little Sémillon in, and the oak varies,” says Janssens. “We test each individual barrel, and if one is too overpowering in oak, we don’t include it.” In cool years, Janssens says, she manages the pyrazines by letting the grapes hang longer, even at the risk of early rains. Kevin Morrisey, winemaker at Ehlers Lane a bit further north in St. Helena, recognizes that his terroir is quite warm. “I don’t have to worry about picking grapes green or unripe,” says Morrisey. “There’s never any of that pyrazine, bell pepper.” The warmth enables him to harvest at relatively low brix. “I keep pushing the envelope in terms of how early I pick,” Morrisey says. “Maybe someday, the wines will be good at 12.9 percent, and I’d get even more of that natural acidity.” Brian Kosi, at Atalon, took a classic ap-

proach with his 2012 Sauvignon Blanc. Blended with a splash of Sémillon, it was fermented in stainless steel, but partially aged in neutral oak, with exposure to the lees. However, Kosi blocked the malolactic fermentation. “We want to retain that natural acidity,” he says. The grapes hail from both warm and cool areas across the valley. “We can produce a much more complex wine by blending,” Kosi says, noting that it allowed Atalon to boost production to 10,000 cases. Yet, just as good Chardonnay can come from warm areas, quality Sauvignon Blanc can be produced from cool ones. Grgich Hills’ winemaker, Ivo Jeramaz, grows the grapes for his Essence Sauvignon Blanc in American Canyon, an unappellated area south of the city of Napa that he says is chillier than Carneros. So how does he avoid green notes? “We control yields,” says Jeramaz, neph-

The Sweeter Side of Napa With its warm, lingering autumns, Napa can produce extraordinary sweet wines. Here are three favorites. Beringer Nightingale (Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc) Far Niente Dolce (Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc) Joseph Phelps Eisrébe (Scheurebe)

ew of winery founder Mike Grgich. “Most of our vineyards are dry-farmed, so canopies don’t get gigantic.” Low yields focus flavors in the grapes, thereby concentrating the wine’s richness. Jeramaz’s techniques, which include aging on the lees in large French foudres, also help to round and soften the wine. Jeramaz doesn’t blend in Sémillon, but he uses some of the musqué clone of Sauvignon Blanc, which adds a Muscat-like spiciness and complexity to his wines.

Recommended Wines

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Grgich Hills 2012 Essence Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The “Essence” in the designation refers to the wine’s sources, which are selected blocks from the winery’s vineyards in the southern part of Napa. The wine is absolutely dry, mouthwatering in acidity and vastly complex. There’s a touch of smoky, vanilla-scented French oak, but the fruit flavors star. They suggest stone-driven minerals, Meyer lemons, limes, white peaches, pink grapefruits and a savory, umamirich note of figs. The wine is ideal now, and it should evolve for many years. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Ehlers Estate 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (St. Helena). This is one of the best Sauvignon Blancs of the vintage, from a winery with a fine track record for producing the variety. Maybe it’s the organic fruit that makes it so pure. Certainly, the absence of noticeable oak lets the citrus and tropical fruits shine. With refreshingly low alcohol and lots of mouthwatering acidity, it’s an absolute delight to drink now. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.2% Price: $28

Atalon 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Dry and crisp with acidity, this Sauvignon Blanc, with 3% Sémillon, was fermented in stainless steel but partially aged in neutral oak barrels. The palate shows complex flavors of citrus fruits, Asian pears, lychee, cashews, vanilla, minerals and white pepper, with a touch of honey. The grapes come from all around the valley, including the cooler Oak Knoll District as well as warmer St. Helena. A brilliant example of blending, and easy to find, with 10,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Robert Mondavi 2011 Reserve To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley). The cool vintage resulted in an unusually lean and streamlined wine, but by no means uninteresting. It’s subtly fruity, with hints of citrus zest and grapefruit. The main note, however, is gooseberry—barely ripe, acidic, mouthwatering and whitepeppery. The finish is absolutely dry. It should develop earthy, dried fruit notes over the next six years. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

Ziata 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The price makes this one of the more expensive Sauvignon Blancs on the market, but it’s also one of the best. The grapes come from a cool region in east Napa and from warmer Rutherford. The wine shows terrifically ripe, complex fruit flavors, with a superb structure of acidity and a minerally chalkiness that makes it tangy. It was fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral oak barrels. The formula is frequently copied, but few Sauvignon Blancs achieve this level of quality. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 B Cellars 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A lovely wine, wonderful to drink now, and can be paired with charcuterie, ceviche or even asparagus. The grapes were mostly fermented in stainless steel, with just a little neutral oak, leaving the tropical fruit, spearmint and peach flavors to star. Brisk in acidity, it’s a bargain at this price. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

WINEMAG.COM | 55

MAKING SENSE OF

MONTALCINO Producers in Tuscany’s flagship wine region are divided over splitting it into subzones, but the idea has merit.

BY

BRUNOMORANDI/ROBERT BRUNOMORANDI /R ROBERT HARDING

F

KERIN O’KEEFE

orget or rge get et recent rece re rece cent nt d debates ebat eb bat ates es ove over verr new oak, exve cessively ce ess ssiv ivel iv ely ly lo low w yi yyields iel e ds el ds aand nd n nd native ativ at i e ggr grapes rapes v vers ve versus ers rsus us iinternational nter nt erna er naati t on nal v varieties. a ie ar ieti ieti t es e . Toda Today, ay, tthe th he ho h hott hottest ott ttes e t topi es to topic opi picc in i IIta Italy t ly ta ly iiss th the he cr creation rea eati tion on n of ssubzones. ubzo ub bzo z ne nes. s. s. No Nowhere owh wher her e e do does es iitt st sstir tirr up more passsion si iion on ttha than haan in han i M Montalcino, o ta on t lc lcin ino, in o, h o, hom home omee to the om h Brun Br Brunello u ello un elllo od dii Mo M Mont Montalcino ont n aallci cino no D no DOC DOCG OCG OC G ((denomdeno de nomno m min inazione naz a io i ne d dii or ori origine igin igin ig ine co cont controllata ntro nt r ll ro llat ata at a e ga g garanara ranra ttita). tita ti ita ta). )).. “II u use used seed to gget sed et aask asked sked sk ed d aabo about bout bo ut w woo wood ood oo od ag agin aging iin n ngg wh when hen I v vis visited i it is i ed d diff iffer eerrrentt ma en mark markets,” rket rk ketts, s,”” sa ssays ays ys F Francesco rraanc nces e co M es Marone aron ar o e Ci on Cinz Cinzano, nzan nz ano, an o o o, own owner wner er o off th thee Co C Col ol d d’ d’Orcia ’Orci ’Or Orci Or c a es esta estate tate ta te aand n aan nd n av avid id d ssup supporter uppo up port po rter e o er off cr crea creating eati ting ng subzones ssub ub bzo zone ness ne in M Mon Montalcino. onta on talc ta lcin lc ino. in o. ““No “Now, Now, No w, I gget et m mor more oree an or and d mo more ore q questions uest ue stio st ions nss rregardegar eg ardar ding th ing in the he ph phys physical hys ysic icall location ic loc loc ocat a io at ion off the ion the he vineyards.” v vin iney in eyar ey ards ar ds.” ds .”” Cinzano’s Ciinz Cinz n an a o’ o’ss observations ob bse serv rvat atio ions ns refl reflect ect consumer ccon o su on s me merr ap appr appreciation p ec pr ecia iati tion ti on of of th the he gr grow growing owin ow ingg trend tren tr end d among amon am ongg Italian Ital It alia ian n winemakers wine wi nema ne make ma keers to to focus focu fo c s less cu less on on cellar cell ce l ar practices ll pra pra ract ctic ct ices ic es aand nd m more oree on v or vin vineyards—specifi iney in eyar ey ards ar ds—s ds —spe —s peci pe cifi ci fically, call ca lly, ll y, vineyard vin iney ney eyar ad ar location. lo ocati cati ca tion on.. on Barbaresco Barb Barb Ba bar ares e co and es and Barolo Bar arol o o led ol l d the le the way way in n 2007 200 2 007 00 7 and and 2010, 2010 20 10,, when 10 when the the two two denominations deno de nomi no mina mi nati na tion ti onss offi on offici cially cial ci ally al ly mapped map m appe ap ped pe d out out their thei th eirr vineyards ei vine vi neya ne yard ya rd rds ds into into “geographic “ge “ge geog ogra og raph ra ph phic ic mentions.” men m enti en tion ti ons. on s.”” In Chianti s. Chi Chian hian anti ti Classico, Cla C lass la ass ssic ico, ic o producers o, pro pro rodu duce du cers ce rs are are rallying rall ra llyi ll ying yi ng to to create c ea cr eate te subzones ssub ubzo ub zo one ness based b seed on that ba ttha hatt region’s ha regi re giion nine townships. tow owns nshi ns hiipss. Montalcino, Mo Mont ont ntal alci cino ci no,, however, no howe ho howe weve ver, r, is is a single sing si ngle ng lee township. ttow ow wns nshi hip. hip. hi p Most Mos ostt prod pr producrod duc uc-ers—with e s— er s—wi with wi th some ssom omee notable om nota no tabl ta blee exceptions, bl e cept ex ptio ions ns,, like ns like k Altesino’s Alt ltesin ltes ino’ o’’s Montosoli Mont Mont Mo ntos osol os oli oli bottling—don’t refer to to their th heiir single vineyards on labels or as distinct geographic locations. This has led to the perception that Montalcino is one big, happy denomination, with no need to highlight differences by adding another layer er of geographic precision. Producers Prod Pr oduc ucers here re are are divided div divid ided ed over ove o verr zoning. zoni zo ning ng. Opponents Oppo Op p nent ntss fear fear a that a classification system would penalize them, says Fabrizio Bindocci, president of the Brunello di Montalcino consortium. “Our 5,187 acres of Brunello represent the ‘premier cru’ of Montalcino, the best areas that you can find throughout every

part of the th he township, town to wn nsh hip p, with with no wi o distinctions,” d st di stin inct cttio ons ns,” ,” says ssay ayss Bindocci. Bind Bi ndoc occi c . “So ci “So far, no one has has put ha pu ut forth fort fo fort rth h a zoning proposal. pro ropo p sa po sal. l. If If producers prod pr oduc ucer ers do, do then we’ll we’’ll evaluate eva valu valu luaatte te it.” itt.”” For Fo Piero P ero Pi erro Antinori, Anti An tino ti in no orrii, zoning zo oning ng is is premature. prem pr emat em atur ure. e e. “Zoning “Z Zon oning runs runs the thee risk rris isk is k of o giving giv ivin ingg imprecise in imprec impr ecis isee and and misleading misl mi slea eadi d ng di evaluations,” ev valuations,” says Antinori. Anttin norri. “I “I think th hin ink k we still ssti till ll need n nee eed d more more years years ears of experience exp xper erie ienc ncee to carry ccar a ry out ar out a work wor ork k of solid ssol olid id scientifi ssci cien entiifi ficc value valu va luee that that this t is delicate th del elic icat ic atee matter at matt ma tter tt er requires.” rreq equi eq uire ui res. re s..” Other producers prod pr od o duc u er erss say say zoning zo oni ning n is ng is essential esse es sent ntia iall now. now. Sangiovese, Sang Sa ngio iove vese se,, the se the only on nly y grape ggra rape ra pe allowed aall llow ll owed ow ed in in Brunello, Brun Br unel un ello el lo,, is notorilo not otor oriiously ousl ou slly site-sensitive sly site si te-s -sen sen ensi siti si iti t ve and and nd performs per erfo f rm fo rms diff differently eren er entl en tly tl y depending depe de pend pe ndin ndin i g on its its environment. envi en viro vi ronm nmen en nt. In the the vast vas astt township town to wnsh wn ship sh ip p of of Montalcino, Mont Mo n al nt alci cino ci no,, growing no grow gr owin ow ingg conditions in c nd co dit itio ions io ns vary vary dramatically. d dra rama mati ma tica ti call ca lly. y Vineyard y. Vin iney eyar ard d altitudes alti al titu ti tude dess range de rang ra ngge from from fr om 300 300 to to over overr 1,640 1,64 1, 640 64 0 feet feet above aabo bove bo ve sea sea level, llev evel ev el,, there el ther th eree is er i a dizzying diz diz izzy zyin zy ingg array in arra ar ray ra y of soils ssoi oils oi lss and and summertime s mm su mmer erti er time ti me temperatures ttem empe em pera pe ratu ra t re tu ress can caan vary vaary more v mor oree than than seven ssev even en n degrees d deg egre eg rees re es from from o north nor n orth or th to to south. sout so uth. ut h h. Wine Wine styles ssty tyle ty less here le here can can range rran ange an ge from fro r m elegant eleg el egan eg antt and an a d ageworthy an agew ag ewor ew orth or th hy to muscular musc mu scul sc ullar and ular and immediate. iimm mm med edia iate ia te.. Subzone te Sub Su bzon zon onee supporters supp su ppor pp orte or teerss insist ters iins nsis ns ist that t at th a creccre re-re ating atin at in ng separate sepa se para pa rate ra te regions rreg egio eg ions io ns will wil w illl highlight il high high hi ghli ligh li ghtt the gh the characteristics char ch arac ar acte ac teri te rist stic st icss of each ic eeac a h ac and and help h lp consumers he ccon onsu on sume su mers me rs navigate nav avig iggat atee the t e minefi th m ne mi nefi fiel eld eld of Brunello B Bru rune ru nell ne llo ll o styles. s yl st yles es.. es “All “All the the great gre reat at wine w win inee denominations in deno de nomi no mina mina nati tion tion onss inn the the world w wor orld or l are ld are r divided div div ivid ided id ed into i to smaller, in sma mall ller er,, distinct disttin dist di nctt subzones,” ssub ubzo ub zone nes, ne s,”” says s, says Andrea An A ndre ndre reaa Costanti, Cost Co stan st anti an ti, ti i, a highly hiigh h ghly ly regarded regaard rega re rded producer. rded p pro rodu ro duce du cer. ce r. “Montalcino ““Mo Mont Mont Mo ntal alci al lcciino no can’t ccan an’t an ’tt avoid aavo void vo i the id the he situation ssit itua it uati tion ti on for for much much h longer. llon onge on ger. r. And And d a better bet ette terr knowledge te know kn now o le ledg dge of of Montalcino Mon nta talc l in lc ino o and and its is it wines wine wi ness will ne wiill only o onl nly nl y benefi ben be nefi nefi ne fitt everyone ever ev eryo er yone yo ne in in the the long long run.” lo rrun un.”” un Even Even though ttho houg ho ugh h some some so me subzones ssub ubzo zo one nes are clearly clearly l superior superior to to others, others, deciding deciding which which Brunello Brunello to to buy buy depends depends on on what what consumers consumers are are seeking. seeking. Those looking for ageworthy Brunellos that will develop layers layers of of complexity complexity should should concentrate concentrate on the origioriginal nal growing growing areas areas around around Montalcino’s ar Montalcin no o’s town town to wn center. ccen enter. r. For Forr more Fo more muscular mus uscu cula larr Brunellos, Brun Br unel elllos, s, consumers ccon onsu sume mers rs should sho shoul uld investiin inve vest stiigate gate bottlings bottlings from from Sant’Angelo. Sant’Angelo. For For combined combined elegance elegance and and power, power, look look to to Castelnuovo Castelnuovo dell’Abate. dell’Abate. Though Though unoffi unofficial, cial, the the following following breakdown breakdown is is widely widely reregarded garded as as the the most most sensible sensible initial initial zoning zoning for for Brunello. Brunello.

WINEMAG.COM | 57

Montalcino Many of Brunello’s 200 or so producers cluster near the town center. These estates are generally small and occupy the region’s most elevated vineyards, at 984–1,640 feet. With rich bouquets and ample complexity, these wines often need years to reach their prime, thanks to naturally high acidity and bracing tannins that yield the longestlived and most elegant Brunellos. Even this zone can be divided into distinct microzones. North of Montalcino, artisanal estates make enticingly aromatic Brunellos on soils dominated by limestone and clay. The best are remarkably complex, like those from Il Marroneto, Paradiso di Manfredi, Altesino, Canalicchio di Sopra and Baricci. This is also home to Montosoli—Montalcino’s most famous single vineyard. It consistently produces wines that combine heady aromas and elegance with ripe fruit and firm structure. South of Montalcino, infertile, calcareous soils encourage deep roots to reach underlying minerals that add depth and complexity. At the highest vineyards in the district, marked variations between day and night temperatures generate intense aromas. Most of the denomination’s storied producers are here, including Biondi Santi, Costanti and Barbi. Rising stars include Gianni Brunelli, whose Brunello includes grapes from Le Chiuse di Sotto in the north, which add elegance and perfume, and Podernovone to the south, which lend structure and depth.

Montalcino Long-lived, elegant wines. Recommended producers: Altesino, Barbi, Baricci, Biondi-Santi, Canalicchio di Sopra, Costanti, Gianni Brunelli, Il Marroneto, Paradiso di Manfredi

Castelnuovo dell’Abate Powerful yet graceful wines. Recommended producers: Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Mastrojanni, Uccelliera

Bosco

Montosoli Torrenieri

Montalcino

MONTALCINO Camigliano

Tavernelle Sant’ Angelo In Colle

Sant’ Angelo Sant’ Angelo Scalo

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

Castelnuovo dell’ Abate

Castelnuovo dell’Abate About six miles southeast of Montalcino’s town center, in the hamlet of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, producers make powerful, yet graceful Brunellos. The multifaceted soils of different geologic epochs impart layers of complexity. While the area benefits from warm temperatures that promote ripening, Montalci-

no’s ridge protects vines from scorching maritime breezes. “Castelnuovo also benefits from having a great amount of sunshine, and from the cooling effect of the Orcia River below,” says Paolo Bianchini of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona. Castelnuovo Brunellos have round, fine tannins and age well, thanks to moderate acidity generated by vineyard altitudes of 820–1,476 feet.

PECOLD/SHUTTERSTOCK; MICK ROCK/CEPHAS

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ue east of Cape Town, South Africa, the backdrop of the Langeberg Mountains highlights rows of perfectly situated vineyards spilling down gentle slopes to one of the country’s foremost wine producers, Robertson Winery, celebrated for producing wines of substance well beyond their price. In less than 75 years, Robertson Winery has developed into a leader in the South African wine industry, backed by years of experience, knowledge, and family tradition. Their story began almost three quarters of a century ago, when two grape growers, Giepie Rossouw and Alwyn Bruwer, convinced a number of local farming families to form a new venture, naming it after a Scottish minister, Dr William Robertson, who’d settled in the area. An abandoned missionary church served as their first winery, laying the foundation upon which the winery’s reputation rests today. As testament to their fierce pride and loyalty, many of the founders’ descendants continue to be part of the Robertson family, providing generation upon

generation of knowledge and expertise. The heart of Robertson lies in these families, who’ve situated their vineyards to take advantage of the cooling ocean breezes, as well as the wealth of soil types, from rich, alluvial banks of the Breede River, to shale and limestone on the mountain slopes. The breadth and depth of climates and soil conditions has allowed Robertson to produce an astonishing range of wines considered exceptional values as evidenced by the number of ‘Best Buy’ designations awarded by the top US wine magazines, including nine by the Wine Enthusiast since 2008. The quality to price ratio is especially strong in the Robertson Winery Range, comprised of Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Gewürztraminer. Robertson’s commitment to producing exceptional wines with a real sense of place is well represented by Robertson Vineyard Selection. Sourced from single vineyard sites, the range includes the Phanto Ridge Pinotage, no nota ota tage g , from ge from a fr vineyard located in the foothills off the the Langeberg Mountains and the Wolfkloof Shiraz, Shir Sh iraz ir az, az z, from from fr m a

vineyard owned by the same family since 1886. In 2004, Robertson Winery introduced Number One Constitution Road Shiraz to commemorate ten years of democracy in South Africa under the new constitution. Selected from a single premier Robertson vineyard producing the very finest Shiraz grapes of that vintage, the wine is aged in oak barriques for an extended period of time, and represents the pinnacle of the entwined ideals of grape growing and winemaking. With everything Robertson Winery has to offer, the world’s wine lovers have taken notice. As Johann Meissenheimer, Managing Director of Indigo Wine Group, Robertson’s US importer, stated, “As Robertson Winery approaches its 75th anniversary, it is important to note that the brand has evolved into a global presence, becoming the recognizable face of South African wine in 55 countries and across the United States.

Northwest (Bosco) and Torrenieri Only two sprawling estates, Tenute Silvio Nardi’s Casale del Bosco and Ferragamo’s Castiglion del Bosco, are located in the northwestern quadrant, where protected woodlands inhibit expansion. This area’s cool temperatures yield fresh, but generally less-structured wines than other zones. In the northeast of the denomination, dense, compact clays can result in excruciatingly tannic wines. That originally deterred the recent, widespread Sangiovese planting around the hamlet of Torrenieri. Growers now carefully choose rootstocks and select clones to match the soils. The best wines hail from a limited section of hilltop vineyards, where better soils produce full-bodied, well-balanced wines like those made by Citille di Sopra and SassodiSole.

Bosco & Torrenieri Fresh, but less-structured (Bosco) and full-bodied, tannic (Torrenieri) wines. Recommended producers: Castiglion del Bosco, Citille di Sopra, SassodiSole, Tenute Silvio Nardi

Tavernelle and Camigliano In the hamlet of Tavernelle, southwest of Montalcino, warm temperatures and mid-hill altitudes of 984–1,148 feet encourage even ripeness. The top Brunellos here, like those from Caprili and Armilla, boast structure, ripe fruit and depth. Other top estates include Gianfranco Soldera’s Case Basse. Further to the southwest, in the hot, arid subzone of Camigliano, wines can easily take on overripe characteristics if producers aren’t scrupulous in their vineyard management. Brunellos to try from this zone include Antinori’s Pian delle Vigne, grown in mineral-rich soils, and Marchesato degli Aleramici, which benefits from cooling breezes from the nearby Ombrone River.

Tavernelle & Camigliano Evenly ripe (Tavernelle) and potentially superripe (Camigliano) wines. Recommended producers: Antinori Pian delle Vigne, Armilla, Caprili, Marchesato degli Aleramici, Soldera Case Basse

Sant’Angelo

Given the many differences within the denomination, some producers blend Brunello from vineyards throughout the region, like Altesino, which owns property just north of Montalcino, in Sant’Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell’Abate.

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Sant’Angelo Muscular wines of variable longevity. Recommended producers: Banfi Poggio alle Mura, Col d’Orcia Poggio al Vento, Lisini, Sesti Phenomena

“We believe that our straight Brunello is a true expression of Montalcino because it incorporates grapes from very different areas throughout the entire production zone,” says Guido Orzalesi, Altesino’s assistant director. Having vineyards in three different sub-

zones helps ensure consistent quality, Orzalesi says, as harvests can vary tremendously. It will likely take years for zoning to become a reality. Until then, the producer’s name and reputation are the best guarantees when it comes to Brunello.

MICK ROCK/CEPHAS (3)

Made up of two distinct areas located in the extreme south-southwest, this is the hottest, driest part of the denomination. The highest vineyards beneath the hamlet of Sant’Angelo in Colle, where altitudes average 984–1148 feet above sea level, produce gripping wines with muscle, finesse and longevity. Sant’Angelo Scalo, situated on the plains far below, has broiling summertime temperatures in the low-lying vineyards, especially those just above the Orcia River, where soils are a combination of Pliocene clay and Alluvial deposits. This area produces dark, brawny Brunellos that are higher in alcohol and are generally more approachable upon release than those from other zones. Their relatively low acidity doesn’t support the marathon aging for which Brunello is famous.

While the sight of lobster, clams and crab stacked atop a bed of ice makes you want to grab the nearest three-pronged fork and dig in without pause, stop and consider switching up what to pair with your seafood smorgasbord. Sure, the safe choice is a crisp Chardonnay or a bottle of bubbly. But there are many other whites—and even a few reds and rosés— that can elevate and add even more nuance to the flavors on your packed plate. Here’s your guide to the other wines to drink the next time you step to the raw bar.

FRÉDÉRIC LAGRANGE

BY MIKE DESIMONE & JEFF JENSSEN

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

WINEMAG.COM | 63

BON APPETIT/ALAMY

Oysters+

Ceviche+ 64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

Mendocino Riesling

Crab+

Spanish Albariño

Sparkling Chilean Rosé

SQUIRE FOX/AUGUST; GS/GALLERY STOCK; MARIE JOSE JARRY/AGE FOTOSTOCK; JERRY ERRICO/CORBIS

Lobster+

Coastal Languedoc White

FRÉDÉRIC LAGRANGE

Ceviche + Mendocino Riesling

Crab + Sparkling Chilean Rosé

OUR PICK: Chateau Montelena 2012 Riesling (Potter Valley)

OUR PICK: Torres NV Santa Digna Estelado Pais (Central Valley)

Seafood platters often include ceviche, uncooked

Torres’s Santa Digna Estelado sparkling rosé is made

fish that’s finely diced and tossed with lemon or lime

from Pais, the grape that migrated from Spain to South

juice, chili peppers and other spices. Preparation can

America in the 16th century. The first fine wine made

vary, but dry Riesling will cover all the bases. Chateau

from Chile’s workhorse grape, it is pale pink in color with

Montelena’s Potter Valley Riesling is dry, with flavors of

persistent small bubbles. Its ripe strawberry and peach

nectarine, Gala apple, rose petal and a whiff of clove.

notes are a terrific match with the succulent texture

Its powerful acidity will stand up to citrus juice, while its

and sweet, lightly saline flavor of fresh crabmeat.

voluptuous mouthfeel cuts through even the hottest of

Meaty chunks and tender, flaky bits of crab are even

chilies. The nicely balanced fruit, floral and spice flavors

more delicious when followed by a sip of this refreshing

are worthy complements to this pan-American favorite.

sparkler.

Lobster + Coastal Languedoc White

Oysters + Spanish Albariño

OUR PICK: Gérard Bertrand 2011 Château L’Hospitalet La Reserve (La Clape)

OUR PICK: Terras Gauda 2012 O Rosal (Rías Baixas)

Whether enjoyed on its own or dipped in freshly drawn

Spaniards have been on to oysters and Albariño for

butter, steamed or boiled lobster has an ethereal quality

ages. In the town of Vigo, in Galicia, there’s an entire

that delights the taste buds. Château L’Hospitalet is a

street of open-air seafood restaurants where abuelas

blend of Bourboulenc, Vermentino and Grenache Blanc,

sell you a dozen oysters to accompany your wine

all grown in vineyards overlooking the Mediterranean.

and meal. Terras Gauda’s O Rosal is mostly Albariño,

This alluring wine offers flavors of lemon, orange,

blended with Loureiro and Caiño Blanco. Flavors of

apricot, lightly toasted brioche and a hint of honey. It

white peach, citrus peel and almond blossom, with a

works really well with lobster, and the wine’s soft wood

strong vein of minerality, are always right with the briny

notes and zesty acidity will hold up on the palate of even

goodness of oysters on the half shell.

the most hardcore butter devotee.

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Scallops + South African Chenin Blanc OUR PICK: Raats Family 2012 Original Unwooded Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region) Small bay scallops and larger sea scallops share a delicate sweetness and a burst of salinity, although size increases their firmness and bite. From South Africa’s Coastal Region, near the confluence of the Atlantic and Indian oceans, Raats Family’s Original Unwooded Chenin Blanc is a scallop’s ideal escort. The wine’s pureness of fruit and rich mineral backbone are unhindered by flavors from barrel aging. Notes of honeydew melon, Asian pear, ripe peach and lime zest are the consummate match to wash down scallops of any size.

Clams + Rioja OUR PICK: Palacios Remondo 2012 La Vendimia (Rioja) Made of equal parts Garnacha and Tempranillo, Palacios Remondo’s La Vendimia is a standout example of a joven, a young Spanish wine aged less than six months in oak. Vibrant fruit flavors of cherry, cranberry and Sevilla orange are even better when served slightly chilled alongside just-opened clams on the half shell lying in a bed of ice. Salty, sweet and with a touch of chewiness, clams transport the taste buds from boredom to bliss. Chase one down with this brisk red, and know that you have mastered the art of the bold pairing.

Mussels + New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc OUR PICK: Craggy Range 2012 Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc (Martinborough) New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a natural with the greenlipped mussels from the “Land of the Long White Cloud,” or anywhere, for that matter. Craggy Range’s Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc has flavors of Granny Smith apple and caramelized pineapple, characterized by a bright splash of acidity that cuts through the texture of the mussels and complements their slightly sweet flavor. Unlike grassier Sauvignon Blancs, the Craggy Range allows the fresh flavor of the sea to shine through.

Shrimp Cocktail + Morellino di Scansano OUR PICK: Fattoria La Pupille 2011 Morellino di Scansano Morellino di Scansano sits on the Mediterranean, so pairing the region’s fresh reds with just-caught seafood is a natural. Largely made from Sangiovese, with small amounts of Malvasia Nera and Alicante, this steel-aged red packs smooth flavors of ripe the salty-sweet combo that taste buds crave, but plunge one into cocktail sauce to add layers of heat and tanginess. The wine’s vivid fruit flavors and spirited acidity flow across the palate as a rich accompaniment to naked shrimp, or a wellmatched counterpoint to tomato and horseradish.

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

FRÉDÉRIC LAGRANGE

and tart cherry, backed by freesia and anise. Shrimp features

Clams+

Shrimp Cocktail+ Scallops+

IKONICA/GETTYIMAGES; AMY NEUNSINGER/CORBIS; RAMEN/SO FOOD/CORBIS; LISOVSKAYA NATALIA/SHUTTERSTOCK

South African Chenin Blanc

Rioja

Morellino di Scansano

Mussels+

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

WINEMAG.COM | 67

TIM GRAHAM/ROBERT HARDING

BUYINGGUIDE

Harvested Brunello grapes ready for sorting in Val d’Orcia, Montalcino.

IN THIS MONTH’S GUI GUIDE 70

TUSCANY

111

+ 119 more reviews online

88

AUSTRIA

WASHINGTON + 94 more reviews online

115

+ 76 more reviews online

IDAHO + 2 more reviews online

ONLINE EXCLUSIVES BRUNELLO BONANZA 75 additional reviews of Italy’s iconic wine.

94

BORDEAUX

116 NEW YORK

+ 200 more reviews online

98

SPAIN

+ 23 more reviews online

118 SPIRITS

+ 30 more reviews online

100 ARGENTINA

+ 21 more reviews online

119 BEER

+ 24 more reviews online

+ 2 more reviews online

BOUNTIFUL BORDEAUX Reviews from across the Right and Left Banks of Bordeaux.

WEST COAST CABS AND BLENDS Over 150 wines reviewed, with more than 60 rated 90 points or higher.

104 CALIFORNIA + 183 more reviews online

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

WINEMAG.COM | 69

BUYINGGUIDE

TUSCANY

ate delivers fleshy black cherry and raspberry in the forefront along with notes of cinnamon-spice, mocha and sage, all supported by a solid tannic backbone. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $40

The 2009 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino

I

n early January 2014, I was invited to an that need years to tame. exclusive tasting of almost 200 soon-toThe best ’09s are all about finesse and balbe-released 2009 Brunello di Montalcino ance and will be superb over the next few years. wines by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Their precocious accessibility makes them ideal Montalcino at their headquarters in the center on restaurant lists. However, those ’09s that are of the celebrated hilltop town. forcefully tannic but already lack fruit richness My tasting of the 2009 vintage revealed aren’t going to get any better. Vineyard location that it was another challengwas crucial during 2009, and ing year in Montalcino, and the fuels the raging debate over ofThe best ’09s main problem was the weather. ficially subdividing Montalcino. Scorching summer temperatures “Our older vineyards in the are all about and a lack of rain dominated crunorth, where it’s cooler, perfinesse and cial phases of the growing seaformed better in 2009, while balance and son. As a result, most wines are our younger vineyards in the will be superb prematurely evolved, and while warmer southern areas suffered this makes the best wines enjoymore,” says Guido Orzalesi, esover the next able now, many ’09s deliver sentate manager at Altesino. “Our few years. sations of cooked fruit, evident 2009 is extremely elegant and alcohol, low acidity and fleeting ready to be enjoyed.” tannins. Others have more acidity, but driedAlthough Brunello is the star of this issue’s up fruit and aggressive, astringent tannins. And Buying Guide, we also take a look at selections there are many styles in between, ranging from from Austria, Spain, France, Argentina, Califorsoft and sexy to lean and mean. The one trait nia, Washington and New York. And, as always, that distinguishes almost all the 2009s is a lack be sure to check out our complete database at of ageworthy structure—unusual for wines that buyingguide.winemag.com. are famous for racy acidity and bracing tannins Cheers! —Kerin O’Keefe

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Centolani 2009 Poggiotondo (Brunello di Montalcino). This bold, balanced wine opens with classic Sangiovese aromas of underbrush, dried tobacco leaf, red berries, blue flower and a waft of leather. The juicy palate shows depth, delivering ripe wild cherry accented with white pepper, licorice and a mineral note alongside solid but refined tannins. Drink 2016–2024. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $85

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Il Marroneto 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Elegant and structured, it unfolds with black berry, blue flower, spice and leather aromas. It has dense wild cherry flavors accented with notes of Mediterranean herbs, white pepper, sage and mineral alongside assertive tannins. This should develop nicely over the next few years. Drink 2016–2024. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $NA

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Le Macioche 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This outgoing Brunello opens with aromas that recall blue flower, leather, rose, black fruit, meat juices and Mediterranean herbs. The juicy, delicious palate delivers fleshy black cherry, soft raspberry, milk chocolate, licorice and grilled herbs. The wine is friendly and approachable. Drink through 2019. Vintner Select. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Marchesi Antinori 2009 Pian delle Vigne (Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see page 74. abv: 14% Price: $75

92 2009 BRUNELLO

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Il Marroneto 2009 Selezione Madonna delle Grazie (Brunello di Montalcino). This gorgeous Brunello proves that top producers can make outstanding wines even in challenging vintages like 2009. It opens with an elegant bouquet of violet, red berry, spice and a whiff of new leather. The delicious palate delivers fleshy black cherry layered with mint, licorice, balsamic herbs and cinnamonspice. It’s impeccably balanced with firm tannins and fresh acidity that give it an age-worthy structure. Drink 2016–2024. Montcalm Wine Importers. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $NA

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Altesino 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Structured but poised, it opens with balsamic aromas of menthol, red berries, blue flower, Asian spices and a hint of new leather. The succu-

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

lent palate offers dark cherry accented with notes of mint, lemon sage and chocolate alongside polished tannins and just enough freshness. It’s delicious and already approachable so enjoy soon. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

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Belpoggio 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. It offers earthy aromas of black berries, meat juices, Mediterranean herbs and a touch of leather. The juicy palate delivers ripe red cherry, black raspberry and black spices together with a mineral note on the close. Well balanced with firm, ripe tannins, it will develop complexity over time. Wine Worldwide, Vino Direct. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $52

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Casato I 2009 Voliero (Brunello di Montalcino). An earthy wine, it opens with aromas of black and red berries, toast, cooking spices and meat juices along with a whiff of farmyard. The pal-

San Polino 2009 Helicrysum (Brunello di Montalcino). It opens with intense red-rose aromas that carry right over to the palate. Bright red cherry and black raspberry flavors are accented with cinnamon, white pepper and lemon sage that add depth. It’s well balanced with brooding but refined tannins while fresh acidity gives it energy. Drink 2015–2024. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

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Altesino 2009 Montosoli (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine, from perhaps Montalcino’s most famous single vineyard, opens with fruit aromas of black plum, black berries, cake spices and a whiff of new leather. The ripe, round palate delivers sweet black cherry layered with notes of chocolate and hints of vanilla alongside friendly tannins. While it lacks its usual complexity, it’s juicy, delicious and extremely accessible. Drink 2015–2019. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

Continued on Page 80

The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; California Editor Steve Heimoff and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

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Jarvis 2008 Estate Grown Cave Fermented Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This low production, 100% Cab offers the most perfectly ripe black currant fruit, with complicating hints of pencil lead, violets, dark chocolate shavings and, of course, lots of toasty oak. The fact that it’s now more than five years old has helped to mellow it, but the tannins are still quite hard. The beautiful estate vineyard sits high in the Vaca Mountains, which helps to account for the wine’s intensity and concentration. This is truly a world-class Cabernet that will age through at least 2032. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $130

95

Col d’Orcia 2006 Poggio al Vento Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This iconic Brunello seamlessly combines power and finesse. It opens with earthy aromas of underbrush, tobacco, tilled soil and blackberries. The dense palate delivers juicy black cherry and raspberry alongside black pepper, licorice and a balsam note. It’s impeccably balanced but still very young, and still showing racy acidity and assertive tannins. Give it time to soften and develop more complexity. Drink 2016–2031. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $150

ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: Superb 94–97: Excellent 90–93: Very Good 87–89: Good 83–86:

The pinnacle of quality. A great achievement. Highly recommended. Often good value; well recommended. Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances. Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

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Ashan 2012 Kestrel Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). This barrel-fermented Chardonnay, from the oldest plantings (1972) in Washington State, displays exceptional concentration and palate weight. Apple pie, pear tart, baking spice, butter and caramel flavors abound. It’s rich and packed with fruit, along with the seductive flavors that aging in new French oak can provide. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

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Biondi Santi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. From the grandson of the inventor of Brunello, this iconic bottling opens with a classic bouquet of rose, violet, berry and spice. The vibrant palate delivers bright wild cherry, white pepper and energizing mineral notes along with impeccable balance and finesse. It’s very elegant, with firm but supple tannins and still-nervous acidity. Give it time to unwind and develop complexity. Drink 2016–2038. Vision Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $199

Fess Parker 2012 Ashley’s Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). This brilliant wine is dry and tart in acidity, minerally, and supremely refined in Meyer lemons, pears, limes and tart apples. It’s not one of those fat Chardonnays that melts in the mouth, but instead has firm texture and elegant complexity. It makes a beautiful accompaniment to grilled salmon, crab cakes, or a simple but glorious roasted chicken. Don’t drink it too cold. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $37

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Lachini 2011 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This Pinot seems to float weightlessly on the palate, yet the flavors sink in instantly and dazzle. Suggestions of raspberries and red cherries come spiced in white pepper and cinnamon, with richer levels of Dr. Pepper cola, mocha and red licorice, all highlighted with the most perfect acidity. It’s easy to fall in love with this wine and drink it now, but it can develop interesting complexities through 2020. The winery is Oregonbased and has a good history with Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $50

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Lineage 2010 Red Wine (Livermore Valley). This is Steven Kent’s fourth vintage of Lineage, his blockbuster Bordeaux red from carefully tended Livermore fruit. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), it includes 16% Cab Franc, 15% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. Layered in coffee and herbal cassis, and finely structured, it is an elegant, herbal-kissed, slightly coy wine, enjoyable now with a big meal or ready to sleep in bottle until 2024–2029. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $145

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a subtle difference between this Pinot and Loring’s eight other vineyard-designated 2012 Pinots. But by a hair, this is the best and most compelling, delicious in blackberries, blueberries and cherries. It’s hard not to drink the entire bottle now, with its tantalizing acidity and soft but intricate tannins. And yet this gorgeous wine will develop bottle complexity until 2020 or 2021. The vineyard is in the sweet spot of the Santa Rita Hills. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

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Marchesi Antinori 2010 Guado al Tasso (Bolgheri Superiore). Antinori’s blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc creates a vibrant, structured wine that shows tension and energy. It opens with aromas of black cherry, black currant, dark spices and leather that carry through to the palate alongside firm but refined tannins and vibrant freshness. It already has nice depth but give it time to develop complexity. Drink 2015–2030. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $110

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Barrister 2011 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). A high water mark for Barrister, this ripe and lush Merlot is sourced from the Dwelley vineyard. Chunky berry and cassis fruit is soaked in delicious baking spices, vanilla and chocolate. There’s nothing shy here, but it is thoroughly enjoyable. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

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Duckhorn 2009 The Discussion (Napa Valley). Even at more than four years of age, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot remains huge in primary cherry, blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavors. The tough, astringent tannins make it essentially undrinkable now. Yet its underling wholesomeness and balance guarantee development through 2021, and possibly longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

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Blue Hall Vineyard 2009 Camiana Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Blue Hall’s Camiana bottling of Cabernet is coming off a string of successful vintages, and this ’09 is right up there. You’d hardly know the wine is already more than four years old, it’s so fresh and fruity in blackberries, cherries, dark chocolate and cassis. This 100% Cab also is quite tannic, in the Howell Mountain way. Begin popping the cork in 2019, and the wine could still be amazing in the late 2020s. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $75

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Fess Parker 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This fascinating Chardonnay combines elegance with the opulence you expect from California. It’s ripe and forward in papaya, quince, mango, pear and pineapple fruits, but also shows a steely minerality that’s as fresh and pure as snowmelt water in a pebbly stream. It is never forward or over-the-top. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $37

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Cameron Hughes 2011 Lot 451 Cabernet Sauvignon (Coombsville). Coombsville has emerged as the hottest appellation in Napa Valley, and Cameron Hughes is right there, doing his negociant thing. The Cabernet was blended with Malbec and Merlot, and the wine is fantastically satisfying. Its rich, sturdy tannins frame elaborate blackberry, blueberry, red currant and smoky oak flavors that are wonderfully complex, with an elegant, balanced finish. This is an unbelievable price for a Cabernet of this high quality. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $27

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Jarvis 2012 Finch Hollow Estate Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Jarvis has assembled a great record with this bottling over the years. The 2012 fulfills all the basic California requirements for impressive Chardonnay, with ripe, flamboyant tropical fruit, pear and pineapple flavors, along with lots of sweet, buttery, vanilla-accented oak. This is one of the most decadent Chardonnays of the vintage, and while it’s a little soft, it is flashy. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $115

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MacPhail 2011 Sundawg Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). The Sequana Winery has had enormous success with this vineyard over the years, and now MacPhail dips into it, with impressive results. The first impression is of acidity, mouthwatering and tangy. Then the flavors explode into a rainbow of red cherries, pomegranates, persimmons and exotic spices. It will develop bottle complexity through at least 2021. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

Pepper Bridge 2011 Seven Hills Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley). Aromatic with crushed rock, raspberry, cranberry and hints of clove, this well-structured wine—53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot—will reward additional bottle age. The young, tart red fruits are steely and precise, the barrel influence perfectly balanced against the natural acidity. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $60

Sequum 2010 Four Soil Melange Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The four soils designation refers to the wine’s origins in different vineyards throughout the valley. A great followup to the marvelous 2009, the wine showcases artful blending. It’s incredibly rich and ripe in black currants, cassis liqueur and smoky oak, yet balanced in acids and tannins. Drink now and through 2022. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $55

Sequum 2009 Kidd Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The vintage was a good one for Sequum, which is assembling an impressive track record. The wine is dry and tannic, yet wonderfully forward in blackberries and black currants, and the oak application is perfect. Give it until 2020 or so in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $62

SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Reserva Malbec (Valle de Uco). Rich, loamy and ripe smelling, this wine opens in fine form, with accents of raisin, cassis and ink. The mouthfeel is deep and balanced, while flavors of toasty blackberry, cassis and chocolate are ripe and modern. Finishing notes of coffee, licorice, blackened toast and pepper bring a dark side to this long-lasting, deeply etched Malbec. Drink through 2018. Argentinean Wines, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15.3% Price: $50

Barrister 2010 Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). These Bacchus Cabernet vines were planted in 1972, and add old vine elegance to what is a dark, roasty-toasty wine redolent with new barrel scents and accents. Espresso, smoke and charred wood come out first, but the blueberry, black cherry and deep cassis fruit carries the wine through a long, supple finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $31

Black Stallion 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Here’s another fantastic value from Black Stallion, which has an uncanny ability to produce Cabernets of great depth and charm that can stand against more expensive wines. This 2011 is dry, full-bodied and rich in flavors of black currants. It might even age, but there’s no reason not to enjoy it now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

Cameron Hughes 2011 Lot 450 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a seriously good Cabernet, and the price makes it a relative bargain. Dry and tannic, it has complex flavors of blackberries, black currants, blueberries and plenty of new smoky oak. A tangy minerality lifts it above the ordinary. It will hold in the bottle until at least 2020. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $27

Cameron Hughes 2012 Lot 505 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). You won’t find many Santa Rita Hills Pinots this good, at this price. The wine is rich in leather-scented black cherries, pomegranates and cola, with sandalwood and exotic spice notes that linger into a long finish. Give it some time to breathe. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

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Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is the winery’s first Pinot of the vintage. Hence it’s a preview of their 2012s to come, and what promise it holds. The acidity is high and the alcohol is low, making for an elegant mouthfeel. But what’s especially pleasurable are the deep flavors of black cherries, blueberries, red currants and sandalwood. The wine is fine to drink now, and should hold in the bottle until 2022. What a superb barbecued steak pairing. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Krutz 2012 Magnolia Series Zinfandel (Napa Valley). This terrific Zin brings classic varietal character to the table, with a full body, robust alcohol, dryness and intensely concentrated flavors of blackberry, black currant, dark chocolate, Chinese plum sauce and black pepper. Showing a mastery of the art of blending, its grapes come from north to south in the valley, Calistoga to Atlas Peak and multiple appellations in between. This is one of the greatest Zinfandel values in recent memory. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Rosella’s Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). A wonderful minerality, like a lick of cold granite, grounds and complicates this Chardonnay. Without that stoniness, it would be just another tropical fruit and oaky Chard, good and dry and tart, but mainstream. Yet that taste of terroir lifts it above the ordinary. Don’t drink it too cold, and decant it if you can for an hour or two. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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MacPhail 2011 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The vineyard has been a fine one over the years for MacPhail and numerous other wineries. This ’11 is dry, delicate and rich. With plenty of new oak providing smoky wood notes, the underlying raspberries and cherries have a roasted edge. Enjoyable now, it will gain traction through 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

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MacPhail 2011 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This polished, savory Pinot successfully navigated the difficult 2011 vintage, coming out ripe and clean. Vibrant acidity accompanies raspberry, rhubarb and persimmon flavors, while new French oak brings a rich jacket of buttered toast. With refreshingly low alcohol, the wine will age well. Drink now–2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $49

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MacPhail 2011 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Because of the relatively low alcohol, this Pinot has a refreshingly delicate mouthfeel. It’s also tart in acidity, giving the flavors a bright bite. And those flavors are dazzling, suggesting sour red cherry candy, ripe Christmas persimmons and cranberry preserves. Such a pretty wine, and it will age well through at least 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $49

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Marchesi Antinori 2009 Pian delle Vigne (Brunello di Montalcino). This structured wine opens with aromas of black fruit, underbrush, mint and spice with an earthy touch of saddle leather. The juicy palate delivers a core of black cherry accented with notes of thyme, sage, espresso and mocha supported by a tannic backbone. It’s well balanced, with enough freshness to ensure it will develop complexity over the next few years. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $75

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MacPhail 2011 Rita’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The fruit on this Pinot Noir is flashier than anything that MacPhail has produced in their Sonoma County Pinots. That likely is due to the long hangtime of the Santa Rita Hills. The grapes got enormously ripe and rich in raspberries and cherries, and the wine would be a simple fruit bomb were it not for the excellent structure and a certain tangy minerality that will help it age through 2020 to 2022. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $49

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Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard Earthquake Block Unfiltered Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Although the tannins give this wine a hard astringency, they can’t mask the richness of the fruit. Once you get used to the tannins, you find a blast of cherry and blackberry jam fruit. This is a wine to put in the cellar until 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $52

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Sequum 2011 Kidd Ranch Zinfandel (Napa Valley). The vineyard is on the St. Helena floor, a warm area that helped the grapes ripen even in this cold vintage. The wine itself is dry, full-bodied, tannic and exceptionally pure in black currants, black licorice and black pepper, with great acidity and a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $38

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Duckhorn 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Hard tannins make this wine difficult to approach now, as they usually do for young Duckhorn Cabs. But it’s quite a success for the chilly 2010 vintage, showing lush blackberry and cherry fruits and fine acidity. As tough as the tannins are, they’re well structured, a strong suggestion that the wine, which includes Merlot, should have an easy time aging. Start drinking it in 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

Galerie 2012 Naissance Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Blended from vineyards ranging from Pope Valley to St. Helena, the wine was aged in neutral oak. It shows classic varietal notes of citrus fruits, gooseberries and lemongrass, with riper suggestions of white peaches. Low alcohol and brisk acidity results in a clean, savory wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

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TintoNegro 2012 1955 Vineyard Estate Grown Malbec (Mendoza). Bold blackberry and cassis aromas are inviting, dense and come with notes of moss and earth. The wine is wavy, smooth and rich in the mouth, with flavors of wild berry, cassis, chocolate and creamy oak. Long and full, the finish conveys structure and a sense of class. Drink through 2018. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $100

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DaMa 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). The 2011 and 2012 Chardonnays from DaMa are a study in contrasts, showing how very different the vintages were. Both come from Sagemoor and Conner Lee grapes, but in 2012 the wine has more floral highlights, and a vertical crispness to its structure. Flavors of anise, green apple and pear are wound up in the tight frame, and this would appear to have some years of life ahead. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $21

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Elsom Cellars 2009 Red Wine (Columbia Valley). Interesting highlights of English Breakfast tea and toasted grains complement the strawberry fruit in this blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Malbec and 8% Syrah. Layered and complex, it shows pleasing hints of lightly composted earth. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

Galerie 2012 Equitem Sauvignon Blanc (Knights Valley). This is one of the richer Sauvignon Blancs out there. Aged in neutral oak which brings a touch of buttery toastiness, it also was stirred regularly on the lees. That adds a creaminess that’s integral to your enjoyment of the lemongrass, peach, kumquat and gooseberry flavors. The acidity is refreshing, making this a distinctive, delicious white wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

Kirkland Signature 2011 Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This is a good price for a Cabernet this rich and satisfying. It’s dry, tannic and opulent in blackberries, black currants and mocha, with a complex note of green olives. It’s fully ready to drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Portia 2010 Triennia de Bodegas Portia Roble (Ribera del Duero). This is an earthy, ripe number. The nose is deep and dense, with aromas of prune, raisin, pastry and vanilla. The mouthfeel is lifted by acidity but overall this feels dense and heavy, with strong but controlled tannins. Flavors of lemony resin, loamy black fruits, molasses and spice finish smooth, long and under control. Drink through 2020. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

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Red Tail Ridge 2012 RTR Estate Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Intensely floral on the nose, this slightly off-dry Riesling is concentrated, with juicy citrus and stone fruit flavors. Hints of wax and fresh herb add complexity to the midpalate, along with a honed, steely minerality that carries through the long and dry fiunish. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $16

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Salentein 2011 Numina Spirit Vineyard Gran Corte (Uco Valley). Blackberry, dark plum, ink, coffee and graphite aromas comprise a ripe, clean, Bordeaux-esque bouquet. This five-grape blend is grabby and tannic but just elegant enough. Flavors of prune, blackberry and chocolate cake precede a dark, toasty, oaky finish that’s solid in feel. Drink through 2018. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $41

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TintoNegro 2012 Finca la Escuela Estate Grown Malbec (Mendoza). Berry, plum and raw oak are common aromas for a young, high-end Malbec from Mendoza. This has bright acidity to go with extracted berry power, while flavors of jammy black fruits, baking spices and chocolate offer intricacies like nutmeg and anise on the finish. Drink through 2019. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

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Bodegas Valdemar 2007 Conde de Valdemar Reserva (Rioja). This is a textbook traditional Rioja, with dry spice, earth, light herbal notes and leather on the nose alongside cherry and plum scents. The palate is crisp, elegant and pure, with raspberry, vanilla, plum and leathery flavors. Modest complexity and elegance rise up on the finish. Drink through 2018. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

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Brancaia 2010 Ilatraia (Maremma Toscana). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this brings forth earthy aromas of tilled soil, ripe black berries, plum and a touch of leather. The ripe palate offers fleshy black cherry and blackberry accented by cinnamon and white pepper notes, all alongside soft, round tannins. It’s ready, so enjoy soon. E&J Gallo. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

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En Garde 2012 Rosé (California). This exceptionally dry Rosé is blended from Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Snap this one up while you can, since only 142 cases were made. Delicate and structured, it exudes wild strawberry and a hint of mint, flavors that stretch through the midpalate well into the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $24

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Gordon Estate 2013 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Quick out of the chute, this 2013, estate grown Chardonnay is a winner. Clean apple, apricot and papaya fruit is set against balancing acidity, with a brisk minerality. Instantly accessible, it should drink well through 2017. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $17

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Cameron Hughes 2011 Lot 418 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Blackberry, black currant, cassis, blueberry, dark chocolate and oak flavors mark this dry, tannic Cabernet. It show sreal Oakville character, at a good price. Gets better and better as it breathes in the glass. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

MacPhail 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Although the label doesn’t say so, the wine comes from the Gap’s Crown vineyard. What differentiates it from the vineyard-designated bottling, to be released in 2015, is that the oak is minimal, allowing the fruit to shine. With mouthwatering acidity, it brims with pineapple, butterscotch, vanilla and roasted almond flavors that finish delicious and long. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Peter Cellars 2010 Syrah (Sonoma Valley). The grilled portobello, roasted meat-bone taste to this wine suggests pairing it with beef stew and mushrooms. The wine also is rich in spicy wild blackberries, fresh-picked and ripe under the summer sun, but the finish is dry and firm in tannins. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $29

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Rodney Strong 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This food-friendly Pinot Noir has a light body, dryness and crisp acidity that make it easy to pair with steaks, chops, salmon, mushroom risotto and similar fare. There’s nothing shy, however, about the flavors, which brim with ripe raspberries, cherries and pomegranates, accented with toasty, spicy oak. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

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Red Tail Ridge 2012 RTR Vineyard Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Lusciously ripe peach and nectarine on the nose of this Riesling belie a palate that’s remarkably herbal, elegant and dry. It’s concentrated, with flavors of apple skin and citrus, and finishes long, with refreshing tea-leaf astringency. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $19

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Rodney Strong 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). If you’re looking for a flashy, complex Cabernet to drink now and for the next few years, try this one. It’s rich and ripe in black currants, plums and toasty oak, with refined tannins and a full body that finishes dry and satisfying. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

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Martín Códax 2012 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Equal parts lemon blossom, minerality, peach and sea foam drive the nose of this Galician white toward a round, wide-bodied palate. Flavors of oyster shell, saline, nectarine and apple are all proper and pleasant, while saline and minerality control the finish. Martín Códax USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

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LangeTwins 2012 Estate Grown Musqué Clone Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). Offering aromas of sweet peach, this is a round, full Sauvignon Blanc with a pleasant texture. Light in alcohol but rich on the finish, it just begs for shellfish or melted goat cheese salad. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $15

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Macari 2010 Bergen Road (North Fork of Long Island). Notes of vanilla, cinnamon and chocolate lend spice and warmth to the ripe redcherry flavor of this Merlot-based Bordeaux blend. It’s unabashedly bold in style with big, chunky tannins and rich, supple fruit, but has enough structure to develop improve further through 2019. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 14.2% Price: $46

Murphy-Goode 2012 The Fumé Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). This is a good value for such a creamy, well-made wine, bright in citrus and tropical fruit. Textured and linear, with a clear beginning and end, it’ll go nicely with oysters or goat cheese. The 7% Sémillon blended in adds floral highlights. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

BEST BUYS

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Cameron Hughes 2012 Lot 429 Old Vine Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). Great price for a Zin so classic in Sonoma personality. While it’s totally dry, high alcohol gives it an edge of glyceriney sweetness that’s a nice accompaniment to the briary blackberry, boysenberry and spice flavors. Grill some ribs or chicken, liberally slather with barbecue sauce and enjoy. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $14

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Colter’s Creek 2011 Syrah (Snake River Valley). Blended with 10% Mourvèdre and 5% Viognier, this is an impressive offering with notes of smoke, vanilla, spice, and smoked meat. It’s light in style, silky soft in feel without an ounce of extra alcoholic fat to weigh it down. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $13

BEST BUYS

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HandCraft 2012 Artisan Collection Pinot Noir (California). Looking for a bargain in a good, coastal Pinot Noir? This one is silky, crisp in acidity and pleasurably rich in raspberries, cranberries and herb tea flavors, sweetened with a little brown sugar. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

HandCraft 2012 Artisan Collection Chardonnay (California). This is a seriously good Chardonnay, given its California appellation. But then, the Delicato family has superb grape sources. It’s rich and ripe in tropical fruit, orange, honey, vanilla and buttered toast flavors, balanced with crisp acidity. Production is an easy-to-find 12,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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Finca El Origen 2012 Reserva Malbec (Uco Valley). Toasty, smoky black-fruit aromas come with a fair amount of density and char. This is plush but balanced, with blackberry, blueberry and toasty oak flavors. A solid but quick finish isn’t complex but it does confirm the wine’s quality. The wine is 85% Malbec with the remainder Bonarda, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

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François Lurton 2012 Piedra Negra Alta Colección Malbec (Mendoza). Spicy, briary berry and leather aromas are full and firm. On the palate, this feels fresh, with good body and depth. Flavors of black plum, blackberry and black currant are spicy but not pushy, while the finish is not overly oaky or heavy. Atlas Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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Pacific Rim 2012 Dry Riesling (Columbia Valley). Penetrating aromas suggest lemon oil and citrus blossom, with a hint of terpene. This is the driest version of this wine to date, with residual sugar down around 0.5%. Pear skin, pear flesh and citrus carry it through a lengthy finish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

Pacific Rim 2012 Sweet Riesling (Columbia Valley). Sweet but not too sweet for some entrées, such as spicy Thai food, this brings a fruity mix of pear, pineapple and orange-creamsickle flavors. It’s smooth and soft, not at all sugary, and framed with fresh acids. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 8.5% Price: $10

Pacific Rim 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley). A solid effort, in the mainstream style that you’ll find on many restaurant-chain wine lists. Apricot jelly—not jam—flavors carry through all the way, with a clean, crisp, well-balanced finish. The residual sugar is just under 30 g/L. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

Trapiche 2012 Oak Cask Malbec (Mendoza). Dusty dark-fruit aromas are lusty and full of oaky notes including sawdust and chocolate. This value-priced winner is full, round, saturated and generous on the palate, where savory, resiny blackfruit flavors finish woody in flavor and firm in feel. The Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

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Bota Box 2012 Shiraz (California). Delicious and easy to drink, the wine carries rich, ripe flavors of raspberries, strawberries, cherries, brown sugar, vanilla and toast. At the equivalent of $5.75 for a regular bottle, it’s a great value. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $23/3 L

BEST BUYS

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J. Garcia Carrion 2012 Ópera Prima Shiraz (La Mancha). While this isn’t easy to identify as Shiraz, it still qualifies as a good, everyday red wine. Rubbery berry aromas come with a pinch of spearmint, while the palate feels juicy and racy. Berry and mild oak flavors finish with a chocolate note and a rubbery accent. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $7

BEST BUYS

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Bota Box 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel (California). This is a very Zinny Zin. It’s dry, fullbodied and, most of all, the wild cherry, licorice and cured tobacco flavors have a spicy, black pepper finish. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $23/3 L

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Acordeón 2011 Malbec (Tupungato). Candied cherry aromas are mildly rubbery and suggestive of nail polish. On the palate, this Malbec feels round, fair and balanced. Flavors of pasty fruit and oak accent red-fruit notes. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $9

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Conquista 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Mild, almost neutral aromas of cherry and herbs require some digging to discern. Medium in weight and concentration, it has flavors of red fruits that are fresh but basic. Raspberry notes carrry the finish to a quiet conclusion. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

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Kirkland Signature 2011 Médoc. A full and ripe wine, it is richly layered with black fruits, soft tannins and a juicy, warm aftertaste. The acidity at the end adds a little freshness. It’s made to be drunk now. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

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Bota Box 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This gets the Cabernet basics done, with ripe, jammy blackberry and cherry flavors, full-bodied tannins and a dry, spicy finish. It’s a good everyday Cab, and the bag-in-box packaging means you don’t have to rush to finish it. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $23/3 L

Bota Box 2012 RedVolution (California). Marked by forward flavors of raspberries, strawberries, cherries and brown sugar, this blend is easy to drink. It has good acidity, and finishes clean and off dry. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $23/3 L

SPIRITS

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Reserva Tequila Partida Blanco (Mexico; Partida Tequila, San Francisco, CA). This elegant blanco features gentle floral notes, agave sweetness and a refreshing touch of minerality, finishing crisp and peppery. Shows surprising finesse for an unaged Tequila. abv: 40% Price: $40

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Bolsignano 2009 Grazia (Brunello di Montalcino). This earthy wine opens with aromas of meat juices, baking spices and black fruit together with notes of leather and balsam. The rich palate delivers dark red cherry layered with mint and a tad of milk chocolate alongside dusty tannins. It’ well balanced and should age moderately well. Drink 2016–2024. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Tequila Platinum Baron Blanco (Mexico; MHW, Manhasset, NY). Mellow and sweet, this silky blanco is full of mint and other fresh herb flavors, balanced by a rounded vanilla note that veers into cookie-dough sweetness and finishes with a sprinkle of baking spice. Hefty, gift-worthy bottle embellished with two dragons flanking an agave plant. abv: 40% Price: $55

CORRECTION On page 37 of the March 2014 issue, the Lapostolle 2010 Cuvée Alexandre Carmenère was listed with a score of 90 points. The correct score for this wine is 91 points.

IN NEXT MONTH’S ISSUE CHAMPAGNE FOR ALL SUMMER’S CELEBRATORY OCCASIONS CALL FOR THE BEST BUBBLY YOU CAN AFFORD. GET OUR PICKS IN EACH PRICE TIER. COMPLETE GUIDE TO CHILI THESE WINE-FRIENDLY RECIPES WILL CHANGE THE WAY YOU SEE THIS PERENNIAL FAVORITE. PLUS, THE RIGHT WAY TO MAKE AND SERVE IT. THE MUSIC ISSUE THESE POPULAR MUSICIANS ARE INTO WINE. LEARN ALL ABOUT THEM AND THEIR VINOUS OBSESSIONS.

Capanna 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Classically crafted, it opens with a fruit-driven fragrance of bright red berries accented with whiffs of cooking spices and balsamic herbs. The juicy palate delivers fleshy black cherry, black raspberry, black pepper and exotic spices alongside big, velvety tannins. Soft and delicious, this is already accessible so enjoy over the next few years. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

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Caprili 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. One of Montalcino’s unsung heroes, this estate delivers a great wine from a challenging vintage. It opens with aromas of underbrush, white mushroom, tobacco, blue flower and woodland berries. The dense, structured palate offers dark cherry accented with clove and black pepper alongside big, brooding tannins. Drink 2015–2021. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $43

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Citille di Sopra 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. A hearty Brunello, it opens with aromas that recall meat juices, leather, mature black fruit cooking spices and turned earth. The juicy palate offers ripe black cherry accented with notes of black pepper, raspberry and lemon thyme with a hint of creamy vanilla. It’s velvety soft and already accessible so enjoy soon. Superior Wines . —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

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Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Underbrush aromas, mushroom, black berries, fennel, leather and tobacco aromas take center stage on this structured wine. The palate delivers rich black cherry, menthol, white pepper, vanilla and mocha alongside firm, dusty tannins. It already has depth but hold for complexity. Drink 2016–2021. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $60

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Gianni Brunelli 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine opens with aromas of ripe black fruit, earth, leather and a balsamic note. The juicy palate delivers fleshy black cherry, fruit, licorice and menthol accented with hints of Mediterranean herbs alongside big, round tannins. Drink 2015–2021. de Grazia Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $67

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Il Valentiano 2009 Campo di Marzo (Brunello di Montalcino). Focused and balanced, it opens with a fragrance recalling ripe berries, wet soil, red rose, blue flower and baking spices. The

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spicy palate delivers wild cherry, cinnamon-spice, white pepper, hot red pepper and a mineral note alongside brooding tannins and just enough fresh acidity. Drink 2016–2021. Vidalco International, LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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La Fiorita 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This bold wine begins with aromas of berry, spice, violet, leather and a hint of meat juices. The juicy palate offers wild cherry accented with cinnamonspice, white pepper and hints of mocha alongside solid tannins and the warmth of alcohol. Give this time to unwind and develop more depth and complexity. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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Sesta di Sopra 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. At first the nose is a bit closed, but the wine then opens to reveal lovely, subdued floral notes of blue flower along with red fruit and spice. The juicy palate delivers ripe red and black berries accented with clove, white pepper and sage supported by solid tannins. Still tightly tannic so give this time to unwind. Drink 2016–2021. Premier Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Armilla 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. A delicious, traditionally styled Brunello, it leads with aromas of meat juices, black plum, black berries and grilled Mediterranean herbs. The forward palate delivers juicy black cherry accented with cinnamon-spice, plum cake and a hint of vanilla alongside big, round tannins. It has nice depth and, reflecting the vintage, it’s already very accessible. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $62

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Canalicchio di Sopra 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Opening aromas recall underbrush, red berry, white mushroom, truffle and thyme with a whiff of leather. The palate offers restrained wild cherry accented with white pepper, mint and sage alongside tightly knit tannins. While the tannins need to unwind, this wine isn’t made for longterm cellaring. Drink 2015–2019. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $57

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Castello Banfi 2009 Poggio alle Mura (Brunello di Montalcino). A ripe Brunello, it has aromas of wild cherry, plum and spice together with whiffs of blue flower and leather. The palate offers fleshy black cherry accented with white pepper and chocolate alongside big, round tannins. It’s fast approaching its ideal drinking window so enjoy 2014–2019. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $85

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Conti Costanti 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine shows real depth, beginning with earthy aromas of underbrush, ripe berried fruit, blue flower and smidge of leather. The palate offers a core of black cherry accented with notes of baking spices and a hint of truffle alongside a solid tannic backbone and nervous acidity that restrains

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BUYINGGUIDE the berry richness. Drink 2016–2024. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

more years in bottle to fully develop. Drink 2016– 2020. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

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Corte dei Venti 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This earthy Brunello leads with aromas of underbrush, mushroom, bay leaf, cherry and Mediterranean herbs. The palate offers juicy black cherry and ripe raspberry punctuated with cinnamon-spice, vanilla, mocha and licorice alongside smoothed but fleeting tannins. It’s nicely crafted and boasts decent freshness for the vintage. Superior Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

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Crocedimezzo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This gem of an estate delivered a smooth and vibrant 2009 Brunello. It boasts aromas of chocolate-covered cherries accented with truffle, leather, mint and balsamic notes that all carry over to the palate alongside mocha on the back. The juicy fruit is supported by just enough fresh acidity and bracing tannins. Aventine Hill LLC. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

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Domus Vitae 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This small Brunello estate has a bright future. Their 2009 boasts a pretty floral fragrance with fruity undertones, hints of leather and tilled earth along with a toasted note. The forward palate reflects the hot, dry vintage. It delivers sweet and fleshy black cherry accented with cinnamon-spice supported by soft but persistent tannins and just enough acidity to give energy. Drink now–2019. Superior Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Donna Olga 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Intense underbrush aromas, black berries and baking spices lead the nose on this wine. The dense palate offers up juicy wild cherry, black pepper and cinnamon-spice alongside solid but velvety tannins. It’s well balanced and already shows depth but hold for complexity. Drink 2016–2021. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Donna Olga 2009 Le Cacce (Brunello di Montalcino). Starting with red and black berry aromas, the wine is accented with underbrush and tobacco notes. The palate delivers fleshy black cherry, cinnamon, white pepper, mint and balsamic notes alongside firm tannins that last through to the finish. Hold for complexity. Drink 2016–2021. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $79

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Fattoria La Lecciaia 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Opening aromas include forest floor, red berries, cooking spices and Mediterranean herbs. The juicy palate shows bright red berries, mint and thyme accented with notes of white pepper. It’s well balanced but will benefit with a few

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Il Poggione 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This forward Brunello opens with a fruit and spice fragrance of ripe black berries, cinnamon and hot red pepper. The dense palate delivers fleshy black cherry, ripe black raspberry, black pepper and cake spices alongside dusty tannins. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

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La Gerla 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas recall pine forest, balsam, black berries, sandalwood and menthol. The palate delivers rich red and black cherry layered with black pepper, toast and chocolate alongside bracing, teeth-coating tannins. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Le Chiuse 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Made from organically farmed grapes, it starts with aromas of mature black fruit, turned soil, blue flower and spice. The succulent palate delivers fleshy black cherry accented with notes of vanilla, Mediterranean herbs and cinnamonspice alongside fine but tightly-knit tannins. Drink 2015–2021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

estate are guided by famed Sangiovese expert Maurizio Castelli whose experience shines through in this classically crafted Brunello. It opens with aromas of plum cake, clove, licorice and hints of toast and espresso. The palate offers fleshy black cherry layered with mocha, tobacco, black pepper and Mediterranean herbs alongside velvety tannins. Drink 2016–2021. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

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San Lorenzo 2009 Bramante (Brunello di Montalcino). Dark berry and baking spice aromas emerge from the glass and carry over to the juicy palate together with fleshy wild cherry, plum, black pepper, cinnamon and vanilla alongside big round tannins. Well balanced with great length, this poised wine already is accessible, so drink 2015–2019. Total Wine & More. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $50

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San Polino 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with a floral and fruit fragrance of red rose, wisteria and berry. The floral sensation continues on the juicy palate along with ripe black cherry, raspberry, and white pepper. It has firm, round tannins and is already accessible so enjoy soon. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $69

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Le Potazzine 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. It opens with a fragrance that recalls mature black plum, wet soil, underbrush, balsamic herbs and a whiff of leather. The ripe palate delivers juicy black cherry accented with black pepper and thyme alongside bracing tannins. De Grazia Imports, Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $93

Tenuta di Sesta 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Although the color is an evolved garnet with brick edges, this wine offers a fresh nose of blue flower, gingerbread and ripe cherry with hints of toast and clove. The palate is evolved but still delivers ripe red cherry, vanilla and espresso along with smoothed tannins and soft acidity. Not much complexity and even though it’s forward, it’s also balanced. Drink through 2019. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

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Padelletti 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Hailing from the northern part of the growing zone, it leads with aromas of ripe black fruit, tilled soil, saddle leather and truffle mingled with hints of balsamic herbs. The palate delivers layers of dark cherry, mint, sage and mineral alongside firm tannins. Despite the forward vintage this is a bit austere but should soften up soon. Drink 2015– 2021. Holiday Beverage. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $80 Podere Brizio 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Floral, earthy fragrances recall red rose, tilled soil, red berries, spice and leather. The mouthwatering plate offers succulent black cherry accented with licorice, white pepper and balsamic herbs alongside firm but round tannins. Ready and very enjoyable now, this an approachable Brunello with some intensity. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

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Podere Scopetone 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. The new owners of this revamped

Tenuta Friggiali 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine starts off with typical Sangiovese aromas of blue flower, pipe tobacco, underbrush, black berries and baking spices. The dense palate shows fleshy black cherry, black raspberry, black pepper and a hint of coffee bean alongside forward, round tannins. Drink 2015–2019. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $75

Terre Nere 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Brawny and forward, it leads with alluring fragrances of blue flower, underbrush, forest berries, balsamic herbs and leather. The juicy palate delivers mature wild cherry layered with white pepper, cinnamon, thyme and mint. While already deliciously accessible, it should develop some complexity in the next few years but don’t hold too long. Drink through 2019. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $38

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Villa Le Prata 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine opens with aromas of woodland

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BUYINGGUIDE berries, forest floor and spice with hints of menthol. The ripe, low-acid palate delivers fleshy black cherry accented with thyme, sage and a hint of licorice alongside tight tannins. Drink 2015–2019. Vinity Wine, Artisan Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Agostina Pieri 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas recall meat juices, toasted oak, berries, espresso and cooking spices. The palate serves up wild cherry accented with cinnamon, sage, thyme, coffee and oak alongside just enough fresh acidity and assertive tannins. Drink 2015–2021. Rare Wine Company. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $NA

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Canalicchio Franco Pacenti 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas of ripe black fruit, underbrush, mushroom and forest floor come with a whiff of leather. The palate opens with ripe—almost sugary tasting—black cherry accented with white pepper, cinnamon and Mediterranean herbs alongside firm but fleeting tannins and soft acidity. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Caparzo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Red berry, spice and floral notes of rose and blue flower lead the nose on this wine. The palate delivers ripe red cherry and raspberry accented with thyme, sage and mint with hints of espresso and toast. Well balanced, it conveys just enough freshness and firm but fleeting tannins. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $40

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Casisano Colombaio 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello begins with a fragrance of mature black fruits, Mediterranean herbs, blue flower and espresso. The palate delivers rich red raspberry and black cherry layered with espresso, vanilla and chocolate alongside forceful tannins that generate an abrupt finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

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Castelli Martinozzi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Round and forward, it discloses aromas of mature red berry, plum cake and a whiff of Mediterranean herbs and meat juices. The palate offers ripe—almost sugary—wild cherry, vanilla extract, mint and thyme. It’s soft, ripe and ready to enjoy soon. Wine For All. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Castello Romitorio 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. A structured Brunello, it opens with aromas of forest floor, black berry, crushed flowers and mint. The palate delivers restrained wild cherry accented with clove and Mediterranean spices alongside bracing, tightly knit tannins that need to unwind. Drink 2016–2021. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas recall black plums marinated in spirits, red berries, toast and a hint of espresso. Reflecting the precocious nature of the vintage, the fleshy palate seems fast forwarded, offering sweet black cherry layered with baking spices alongside tame acidity and restrained, fleeting tannins. It’s savory and already accessible so enjoy soon. Indigenous Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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Col d’Orcia 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Col d’Orcia’s straight Brunello starts with aromas of leafy underbrush, mature black fruit, leather and a hint of grilled herbs. The ripe, forward palate offers black raspberry and dark cherry layered with notes of milk chocolate and coffee. It’s soft, round and very accessible, so enjoy sooner rather than later. Palm Bay International. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $55

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Fattoi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Opening aromas include black berries, toast and underbrush with whiffs of leather and eucalyptus. The palate delivers fleshy black cherry accented with vanilla, black pepper and coffee alongside dusty tannins. It closes on a sweet note of almost overripe fruit and is fast approaching its ideal drinking window. Tricana Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

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Fattoria La Lecciaia 2009 Vigna Manapetra (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine offers aromas of underbrush, meat juices and farmyard together with notes of overripe red berries. The palate delivers wild cherry accented with almost-sugary sweet vanilla extract sensations, mocha and cinnamon-spice alongside assertive tannins that carry through to the drying finish. Drink 2015–2019. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $48

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Fornacina 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Black fruit, chocolate, licorice and menthol aromas take center stage in this brawny, forward Brunello. The palate starts off with fleshy black cherry accented with notes of cinnamon-spice layered with bitter dark chocolate, but it finishes on a note of drying tannins. You’ll also notice the hefty alcohol on the close. Villa Italia. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $64

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Il Palazzone 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This estate continues to improve every year and has made an outstanding effort with the 2009 vintage. It opens with aromas of underbrush, violet, red berries, menthol, thyme and a hint of orange peel. The palate offers wild cherry layered with notes of chocolate and espresso alongside dusty, drying tannins. It ends on a licorice note. Domenico Valentino. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $90

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La Collina dei Lecci 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Ripe plum and red berry aromas

accented with hints of oak and white pepper lead the nose on this wine. The round, ripe palate delivers fleshy black cherry spiced up with hot cinnamon and a hint of licorice alongside tight tannins. Drink 2015–2021. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

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Mastrojanni 2009 Vigna Loreto (Brunello di Montalcino). Structured and concentrated, it opens with aromas of dark berries, Mediterranean herbs, cooking spices and a whiff of toast. The palate delivers ripe black and red cherries accented with licorice and notes of grilled herbs alongside tightly knit and aggressive tannins that generate an abrupt finish. This should improve with a little more age. Drink 2016–2021. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

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Mocali 2009 Vigna delle Raunate (Brunello di Montalcino). This brooding wine starts with aromas that recall underbrush, overripe black fruit, mint, iris and baking spices. The palate is tightly knit, with ripe red fruit, black pepper and black spices alongside solid tannins. It’s already accessible so enjoy over the next few years. Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

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Poggio Antico 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Earthy aromas quickly transition to ripe marasca cherry and cake spices. The palate delivers juicy red berry, mint and white pepper alongside polished but not very persistent tannins. It’s already accessible so drink now through 2019. The Sorting Table. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $80

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Salvioni 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. From one of Montalcino’s cult producers, this wine leads with earthy aromas of underbrush, truffle, stewed plums and prune. The palate offers overripe black cherries, baked plums, licorice and black spices. It’s fast approaching its ideal drinking window so enjoy soon. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $300

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SassodiSole 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Forward but structured, it delivers underbrush, leather and dark fruit aromas punctuated with hints of orange rind and spice. The palate offers fleshy black raspberry and red cherry sprinkled with white pepper, licorice and a note of mocha alongside firm but round tannins. Drink now–2017. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Uccelliera 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This brawny wine leads with aromas of blue flower, red berry, spice and a whiff of wet soil. The palate offers succulent wild cherry layered with notes of sweet vanilla, mint, espresso and thyme alongside rather angular tannins and evident alcohol. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $50

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STEVEN MORRIS GOVERNOR’S CUP TM CASE FINALISTS Barboursville Vineyard 2008 Malvaxia Passito

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Barren Ridge Vineyard 2009 Meritage

Fabbioli Cellars 2011 Tannat

Horton Vineyards 2010 Tannat

King Family Vineyards 2011 Meritage GOVERNOR’S CUPTM WINNER The Williamsburg Winery 2010 Adagio

When you uncork a bottle of Virginia wine, you experience more than the Old World fl avors of Viognier, Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot. You become part of a living history that dates back more than 400 years to when the first settlers arrived in Jamestown. Taste for yourself how Virginia wine stays true to our roots while igniting the passion of wine lovers from around the world.

©2014 Virginia Wine Board Marketing Office, 804.344.8200. All rights reserved.

North Gate Vineyard 2011 Meritage

Rockbridge Vineyard 2008 DeChiel Reserve Meritage

Sunset Hills Vineyard 2010 Mosaic

Two Twisted Posts Winery 2012 Chardonnay

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BUYINGGUIDE

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Baccinetti 2009 Saporaia (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine, which has a surprisingly evolved light garnet color with some brick on the edges, opens with a delicate floral perfume of violet, red berry and cinnamon. The spicy palate offers red cherry, white pepper, clove and cinnamon alongside fleeting tannins and a note of warm alcohol. Not much weight or complexity and extremely approachable for such a young Brunello. K&L Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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Bonacchi 2009 Molino del Piano (Brunello di Montalcino). This mid-weight Brunello starts with a pretty fragrance of wild berries, violet and baking spices. The juicy palate delivers red cherry and black berry accented with notes of mint and white pepper alongside tight tannins. It’s rather simple but very enjoyable. Drink 2015–2019. TriVin Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $49

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Capanne Ricci 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas of mature black fruit are accented with whiffs of violet, menthol and eucalyptus. The palate features rich red and black cherries layered with cinnamon, white pepper, espresso and dried sage. Reflecting the vintage, it seems shy on acidity and is already approachable. Drink 2015–2019. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

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Castello Banfi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. The wine opens with aromas of oak, espresso, and black plum. The palate delivers stewed plums, blackberries and cherry extract layered with toasted oak, roasted coffee bean and sweet vanilla. This is already accessible so enjoy over the next few years. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $65

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Centolani 2009 Pietranera (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello starts with subdued aromas of plum, red berries and baking spices. The palate is inexpressive at first but eventually reveals black cherry, white pepper and clove alongside velvety tannins. Reflecting the vintage, this is already rather evolved so best to enjoy it in the next few years. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Collemattoni 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas include leather, prune, plum, leather, sage and meat juices. The concentrated palate offers ripe black cherry mingled with notes of espresso, black pepper and coffee bean alongside brooding tannins. Not much complexity and it’s already accessible so enjoy soon. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Collosorbo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas of mature black plum, meat juices and Mediterranean herbs are punctuated by whiffs of leather and truffle. The palate reveals sour cherry, fruit tart and espresso alongside drying tannins. It

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lacks intensity so enjoy soon. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Cupano 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. It opens with aromas of toast, overripe black fruit, roasted coffee bean and melting chocolate. The dense palate delivers sweet black cherry extract, vanilla, anisette and oak. It has a round, ripe character and you’ll also notice the warmth of alcohol. Drink over the next few years. Verdeor Select Vintages. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $NA

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Fossacolle 2009 Fossobuio (Brunello di Montalcino). The wine starts with aromas of toasted oak, roasted coffee bean and whiffs of black fruit. The palate offers black cherry, plum, tobacco and espresso alongside somewhat drying wood tannins. It’s already a bit evolved so better to enjoy sooner rather than later. Drink through 2019. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Il Poggiolo 2009 Annata (Brunello di Montalcino). This plump Brunello offers layered aromas of black plum, mature berry, vanilla, and balsamic notes with a hint of leather. The ripe, one-dimensional palate first reveals rich, sweet black cherry, black pepper and cocoa but concludes rather abruptly with a drying finish. SPW Importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

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La Colombina 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. In this earthy wine, aromas recall wet soil, berry, leather and a hint of farmyard. The palate opens with dense wild cherry, cracked black pepper, prune and notes of bitter chocolate alongside velvety tannins but the wine fades quickly on the finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $50

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La Fortuna 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Fragrances of mature black fruit, violet, espresso and baking spices take the lead. The palate delivers ripe red berries, black cherry, vanilla and mocha backed up by assertive but somewhat drying tannins. It’s evolving fast so drink over the next few years. Vista Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

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La Magia 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine opens with aromas of wild cherry marinated in spirits, leather and dark chocolate. The palate offers juicy black cherry accented with white pepper, cinnamon and eucalyptus alongside round but fleeting tannins. It’s delicious but already extremely accessible so don’t leave this in the cellar for too long. Drink through 2019. Medallion Global. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $60

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La Mannella 2009 I Poggiarelli (Brunello di Montalcino). Ripe red cherry, red rose pet-

als and a hint of orange peel lead the nose on this wine. The forward palate delivers juicy wild cherry accented with white pepper and a hint of mineral alongside firm but fleeting tannins. It’s already accessible so enjoy in the next few years. Superior Wines . —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

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La Rasina 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine opens with animal and farmyard aromas that aren’t unpleasant and which burn off in the glass to reveal mature black fruit and leather. The sweet palate offers fleshy, almost overripe blackberry, black cherry, cinnamon-spice and balsamic herbs. It finishes on an astringent note of wood tannins. Montecastelli Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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La Togata 2009 Togata dei Togati (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello carries unusual fragrances of rose, sea breeze, overripe berries and the barest hint of earthy barnyard. The juicy palate delivers ripe black cherry, mint, espresso, clove and nutmeg alongside rounded, evolved tannins and soft acidity. Drink through 2019. Panebianco. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

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Lisini 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This ripe wine opens with aromas of stewed black fruit, underbrush, prune, and a just whiff of farmyard. The palate reveals nearly overripe black cherry, cinnamon and clove alongside bracing, astringent tannins. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $78

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Loacker Corte Pavone 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Made from grapes grown observing the principles of biodynamic viticulture, this forward wine has black fruit aromas punctuated with chocolate notes, meat juices, spice and a hint of leather. The dense, low-acid palate delivers rich black cherry layered with mint, toasted oak, espresso and coconut alongside tightly knit, assertive tannins. This isn’t an ager so enjoy over the next few years. Maverick Wine. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $75

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Mastrojanni 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Fragrances recall wet leaves, underbrush, forest berries and baking spices with a touch of espresso. The palate reveals black cherry accented with black pepper and espresso alongside bracing, tongue-drying tannins. This is a big wine, but the fruit isn’t quite rich enough to support the evident alcohol. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $50

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Mocali 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Opening aromas suggest underbrush, bay leaf, meat juices, plum and raisin. These carry over to the palate along with sour cherry, white pepper, cinnamon and espresso. Firm, drying tannins mark the close. Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

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Palazzo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. A brawny wine, it leads with ripe berry, underbrush, toast and leather aromas. The juicy palate offers sweet wild cherry and black raspberry accented with notes of mint, thyme, black pepper and hint of coffee alongside bracing tannins. Drink 2015–2021. Bedford International. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Piccini 2009 Villa al Cortile (Brunello di Montalcino). This forward wine opens with aromas that recall mature black plum, grilled herbs and meat juices with whiffs of farmyard and leather. The palate delivers ripe black cherry, sweet vanilla extract and round tannins. Even though it lacks complexity, it’s enjoyable drinking for the near term. Drink through 2019. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45 Pietroso 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. It shows earthy aromas of wet soil and leafy underbrush, as well as leather, dark berry and spice. The palate offers restrained black plum, sour cherry, espresso and licorice alongside firm yet drying tannins. The fruit richness is starting to fade so enjoy soon rather than later. Enotria Wine Import. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45

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San Giacomo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Balsam, menthol, spice and black and red berry aromas with hints of mint lead the nose on this wine. The palate offers subtle red cherry, prune, tea and tobacco alongside velvety but rather fleeting tannins. It closes on a drying, astringent note. Boutique Imports. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $50

Terralsole 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Ripe berry aromas are punctuated with touches of underbrush, wet soil and thyme. The palate offers up mature black plum, black cherry and espresso alongside bracing but fleeting tannins. A hint of powdered sage characterizes the close. Terralsole USA. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $78

Vasco Sassetti 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Underbrush, leather, ripe black berries and menthols lead the aromas. The palate offers fleshy red and black cherries accented with espresso, oak, sweet vanilla and thyme alongside drying, forceful tannins. Drink 2015–2019. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

Villa I Cipressi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas of turned soil, underbrush, spearmint, red berries and espresso carry over to the palate along with a mint note. The tannins are somewhat evolved, making the wine extremely accessible, so enjoy soon. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

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Villa I Cipressi 2009 Zebras (Brunello di Montalcino). Easily recognizable thanks to its label of multi-colored zebras, this wine opens with aromas of raspberry, black fruit, espresso, Mediterranean herbs and toasted notes. The palate delivers ripe red cherry, raspberry and mint alongside velvety but fleeting tannins. It’s ready, so drink now through 2019. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

2008 BRUNELLO

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Sesti 2009 Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino). Earthy and brawny, it opens with a fragrance of stewed black fruit, Mediterranean scrub, tilled soil and a hint of toast. The warm, forward palate offers wild cherry and black raspberry accented with black pepper and a coffee note alongside round tannins. This isn’t for cellaring so enjoy over the next few years. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $76

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Tenuta La Fuga 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine starts with whiffs of soil, mature black berries, spice and leather. The forward, lowacid palate offers juicy dark cherry accented with cinnamon-spice and chocolate alongside smooth, velvety tannins. It’s already extremely accessible so enjoy over the next few years. Kobrand. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $60

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Tenute Silvio Nardi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas of oak, exotic incense and asian spices come together together with a waft of black plum. On the palate, it shows black cherry layered with vanilla, toasted oak and espresso alongside drying tannins. Drink 2015–2021. Kobrand. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Biondi Santi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 71. Cellar Selection. abv: 13% Price: $199

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Mastrojanni 2008 Vigna Schiena d’Asino (Brunello di Montalcino). One of Montalcino’s most sought-out wines, this 2008 is an outstanding effort. It opens with earthy notes of black berries, tilled soil, underbrush, leather, tobacco and prune. The succulent palate reveals juicy wild cherry and black raspberry energized by notes of white pepper, licorice and thyme. Still young and tannic, it should develop beautifully. Drink 2015–2028. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

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Paradiso di Manfredi 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Intense, earthy aromas suggest truffle and leather. Smooth and fresh flavors focus on delicious berry and spice. Big, velvety tannins are uplifted by energizing minerality, delivering a finish with fantastic length. Drink 2015–2028. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Salvioni 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright cherry and blue floral aromas come with hints of leather and spice. The vibrant palate delivers succulent wild cherry and white pepper restrained by fresh acidity and bracing tannins. It has mesmerizing depth, finesse and balance. Drink 2015–2028. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $209

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Caprili 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). It opens with an earthy fragrance of black plum, underbrush, meat juices, thyme and bay leaf. The dense palate delivers juicy black cherry accented with licorice, black pepper and balsamic herbs. Big and concentrated, it has ripe tannins balanced by decent acidity. Hold for more complexity. Drink 2016–2923. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $73

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Fattoi 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). It conveys classic aromas of bright red berries, baking spices, leather and forest underbrush. The dense palate delivers juicy black cherry accented with notes of mint, fresh sage, thyme, licorice, black pepper and chocolate. It’s well balanced, with solid tannins that carry through to the finish. Drink 2016–2028. Tricana Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

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Castello Banfi 2008 Poggio alle Mura Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This structured wine opens with aromas that recall underbrush, blue flower, mature black plums, balsam and a whiff of leather. The palate delivers black cherry sweetened with vanilla, toasted oak, espresso and chocolate alongside bracing tannins. Drink 2015–2020. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $130

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La Poderina 2008 Poggio Abate Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Round and velvety, it has aromas of ripe berry, chocolate and exotic spices. The rich palate delivers juicy black cherry punctuated with ground black pepper, cinnamon, carob, pipe tobacco and mint. Forward and sweet, this is already extremely accessible so enjoy soon. Drink through 2018. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $78

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Uccelliera 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Andrea Cortonese makes ripe, structured Brunellos and this is an impressive effort from the variable 2008 vintage. It opens with aromas reminiscent of black plum, chocolate, vanilla and leather. These carry over to the palate along with toasted notes, spice and espresso. The fruit is supported by assertive tannins that need time to soften. Drink 2015–2023. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Coldisole 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This offers aromas of fragrant blue flowers, black berries, vanilla, and forest floor. The dense palate is rich with fleshy black cherry layered with chocolate, white pepper and coffee alongside

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solid tannins that carry through to the end. It closes on a sweet vanilla note. Not much complexity but it offers drinking pleasure for the near term. Drink through 2018. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $105

ers fleshy black plum, cinnamon, clove and licorice layered with a milk chocolate note. It’s not the most complex Brunello out there but it has succulent fruit and firm tannins. Drink through 2018. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $70

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Fattoria dei Barbi 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This delivers a classic Sangiovese nose of wild cherry, leather, violet, iris, flint and spice. The dense palate reveals fleshy black cherry uplifted by menthol, eucalyptus, black pepper and sage. It’s still young but should develop more complexity over the next few years. Drink 2016–2023. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

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La Gerla 2008 Gli Angeli Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Earthy aromas suggest tilled soil, leather, prune, balsam and dried cherries marinated in spirits. The palate offers ripe black cherry accented with sensations of white pepper, cinnamon, fig, black tea and a hint of chocolate. It has assertive but polished tannins and nice depth, but it already seems fully developed. Drink 2015–2023. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

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Podere Le Ripi 2008 Lupi e Sirene Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). It opens with aromas of underbrush, leather, fennel, prune and plum with just a whiff of rubber. The palate delivers dense black cherry accented with fresh mint, sage, espresso and mocha alongside fine but tightly-knit tannins that need time to unwind. Italian Wine Growers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

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Sesti 2008 Phenomena Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). With its intriguing label that changes every year to reflect the most important astronomical event that occurred during the harvest year, this wine leads with intense aromas of underbrush, woodland berries, black pepper and grilled herbs. The juicy palate delivers sweet red cherry layered with notes of balsam, toast, cake spices and a hint of vanilla alongside big, assertive tannins that need time. Drink 2016–2023. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $112

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Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Funky, earthy aromas dissipate in the glass to reveal mature black plum, espresso and vanilla. The forward, warm palate offers ripe—almost overripe—black cherry, layered with fleshy raspberry, coffee, and bitter chocolate sensations. It closes on a sweet, almost sugary note. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

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Il Poggiolo 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Structured but accessible, it opens with aromas of mature black cherry, raisin, leather, cake spices and coffee. The round, soft palate deliv-

PianCornello 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Warm, toasty aromas are punctuated with whiffs of mature black berries and chocolate. The palate offers tart red cherry, black pepper and cinnamon-spice alongside the warmth of alcohol. It lacks the complexity one expects from a Brunello Riserva but it’s well balanced and ready. Drink through 2020. Superior Wines . —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $NA Canneta 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Oak, exotic incense, mature black fruit and a hint of vanilla lead the nose on this straightforward wine. The one-dimensional palate delivers chocolate-covered cherries layered with notes of vanilla and coffee alongside dusty tannins. Orvino Imports & Distribution. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

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La Collina dei Lecci 2008 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Aromas recall underbrush, blue flower, mushroom and forest berries. The palate offers raw red cherries layered with milk chocolate and Mediterranean spices alongside assertive, drying tannins. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $52

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Tassi 2008 Franci Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Aromas of overripe black berries, prune, toasted oak accompany a whiff of farmyard that burns off fairly quickly. The palate delivers bright red cherry accented with vanilla, black pepper and espresso alongside assertive but rather astringent tannins. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

AUSTRIA RIESLING

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Josef Jamek 2012 Ried Klaus Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Lifted ripeness and candied lemon peel send their aromas heavenwards. These rounded aromas with a fetching touch of bitter fir and honey also appear on the palate where acidity is present but cushioned. Like honey parfait spiked with lemon peel, this is lovely and lingers long. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

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Rudi Pichler 2012 Wösendorfer Hochrain Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Powdery notions of white peony petals against a stony background suggest concealed aromas that need time to come to the fore. Right now the palate is tight, with buffered acidity at the core, long, lean and promis-

ing. Lime zest lurks amid suspicions of ripe peaches in a sherbety, lemony sharpness. The wine will blossom as of 2017. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

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Rudi Pichler 2012 Wösendorfer Kirchweg Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). The tightly closed nose only gives away a little ripe red apple. Even with the fruit locked underneath the stones, the sleek power, the impression of saltiness and lime-zest purity of this wine whisper promises. These will be kept, at least if you wait until 2017. This one will last and last. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $75

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Allram 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). A pure and spicy lift of bergamot promises refreshment while the palate whirls with peach, mandarin and blood orange. All are backed by a steely, mineral poise that cuts through the palate like a comet, shimmering with purity, deliciousness and length. Vias Imports. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Eichinger 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). At this point subdued, this wine promises future pleasures with a ripe, rounded but precise character. Right now, it’s citrus that shows, with ripe lemon zest and some grapefruit. Underneath riches of red apples, yellow peaches and apricots await. Purity and minerality are a bonus. This is a keeper; drink as of 2018. WeygandtMetzler. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $35

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Hirsch 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Still shy but invitingly soft, it has a charming peachiness that cushions both the lemony acidity and the streak of stony minerality. Edges of mandarin peel and flesh add to the allure, which will increase with age. Softly-spoken but very convincing and long. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $28

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Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). What to remark on first: those hints of mellow, luscious ripeness of plum, peach and apple, or that zesty, breezy lemon acidity? Together they make a complete and contrasting picture that focuses on full fruit expression and slender but concentrated linearity. Wein Bauer Inc.. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Loimer 2012 Steinmassl Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). This is definitely on the plumper, richer side of Riesling. Almost overwhelming peach fruit beckons on the nose. The palate is rounded but dry and tempered by freshness. It is rich and has intimations of dried sultana but remains dry and versatile. With all its spicy allure and long-lasting finish, the impression is almost exotic. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Mantlerhof 2012 Wieland Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Ripe peach, dried sultana and a touch of dried fig suggest superripe grapes. Nonetheless, the dry and mineral palate creates a firm, dry frame for all that fruit. Austere discipline contrasts with opulent fruit, and the tussle will please the lucky drinker. The length is astonishing. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Pichler-Krutzler 2012 Wunderburg Riesling (Wachau). Tightly coiled aromas of lemon and grapefruit peel on this seemingly delicate but in fact steely wine. Grown in ancient rocks this Riesling presents dryness, poise and purity. Drink as of 2018. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $55

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Salomon-Undhof 2012 Steiner Kögl Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Tight but gently touched with ripe apple, lime and grapefruit, this wine is refreshing now, although it is still too closed to show its fuller fruits. This will flesh out with time but the wine will always be among the slender, invigorating Rieslings with a precise touch of minerality. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $55

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Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Tight and slender on the palate, it has green and yellow citrus flavors in the foreground. Lime and grapefruit peel appear first, followed by stirrings of pink grapefruit flesh. It all adds up to a wine that offers concentration and depth plus exquisite purity. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $41

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Stift Göttweig 2012 Silberbichl Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Seductive notes of fragrant, red-cheeked peaches come together with notes of honeysuckle. The palate displays the same beguiling aromatics and is slender but deep. Concentration and finesse spell a great future. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Tegernseerhof 2012 Steinertal Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Tightly closed like a fist, the only intimation of flavor is the seam of lemon-zest acidity. Purity and precision are stony straightjackets that this wine will never escape, but its aromatic development will yield ample pleasure for the patient. Drink as of 2017. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $44

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Allram 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Rounded, plump little apricots are suggested in this clean-cut but ripe and dry Riesling with its straight, mineral backbone and impressive balance. A deep and rich core of fruit will unveil layers of fruit and complexity over years to come. Drink as of 2017. Vias Imports. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Arndorfer 2012 Strasser Winberge Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Hints of lemon peel rise shyly from the glass, becoming more intense with air. The palate is dry, buffered and has a savory undertow of wild thyme that interplays beautifully with sumptuous peach notes and that almost textured, zesty acidity that unites everything and brings extended, refreshing length. Indie Wineries. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $28

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Eder 2012 Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Initially restrained, this opens into whirls of lemon, lime and pink grapefruit peel with an almost fizzy zestiness. Refreshment travels along the palate in total precision and linearity, with a rush of citrusy excitement. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $30

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Eichinger 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Lime-zesty purity couples with an earthy, almost spicy edge. Pleasantly grippy phenolics speak of ripeness and plentitude while remaining streamlined, straight and long. This has yet to blossom but will be lovely. Drink as of 2017. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $30

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Hiedler 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Sassy and refreshing, this Riesling bursts with lime, mandarin, Seville orange and Amalfi lemon on a clean-cut but concentrated palate. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Jäger 2012 Achleiten Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). An aromatic allegiance of ripe apple, juicy peach, grapefruit, lemon and orange peel appears against stony minerality. Combining playfulness and severity, concentration and levity, it’s an ideal wine for those who delight in dichotomies. They will be even more delighted by the wine’s length and zesty refreshment. WeygandtMetzler. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Lagler 2012 1000 Eimerberg Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Flinty smoke and a faint streak of grapefruit peel constitute the scant aromatics of this tightly closed wine. Concentration, streamlined acidic structure and extended length assure quality but bid us to be patient. It will also last the distance, probably with more candied angelica and citrus peel. Enjoy as of 2017. MS Walker. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Mantlerhof 2012 Steingraben Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Mellow and peachy ripeness tempered by fresh grapefruit acidity make this a mineral white with incisive intensity. Right now it’s tight and spiky. With time in bottle it will soften into sumptuous fruitiness, but never lose its wonderful edge. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Nigl 2012 Senftenberger Hochäcker Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Crushed camomile leaves and fresh apricots beckon with ethereal lift. The palate oscillates between austerity and thrill with its uncompromising acidity. This is ready and open now but will continue to age. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Pichler-Krutzler 2012 Loibenberg Riesling (Wachau). A soft impression of ripe peach mellows the zesty concentration. The wine is still enigmatic at this point, but will open and reveal more fruit, more ripeness and even more citrus flavors. Enjoy as of 2017. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: NA Price: $42

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Proidl 2006 Senftenberger Ehrenfels Riesling (Kremstal). The wine begins with an ethereal lift of dried thyme coupled with candied orange and lemon peels. The palate is dry and intense, as though it were about to reveal the secrets of time held in the rocky slopes where it grew. As a late release, this is a prime example of the rewards of delayed gratification. The palate has taken on an almost oily texture but the tight acidity keeps it elixier-like. Stacole Fine Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Hermann Moser 2012 Kellerterassen Reserve Gelbling Riesling (Kremstal). Concentrated but still closed, this will need time to develop. For now there is zesty, layered promise of orange and lime peel and a streamlined dryness with an upright backbone of fine and pure acidity. Drink as of 2016. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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Hiedler 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Golden and restrained, this wine does not give too much away on the nose. But the spicily soft palate delivers with a brilliant, lemonzesty acidity well couched in mineral midpalate concentration with an enduring finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Hirsch 2012 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Clean-cut and zesty with the tang of grapefruit peel, a concentrated midpalate and a refreshing dryness, this Riesling shows elegance, power and lip-smacking lemon finish. Shy now, it will reveal more power with bottle age. Drink as of 2017. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

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Loimer 2012 Seeberg Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Juicy yellow peaches are invitingly soft on nose and palate, where the zesty acidity of lime and lemon rind lightens the fruit, leading to a lifted and refreshing finish. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Proidl 2012 Senftenberger Ehrenfels Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Ripe pear, peach and a

wild-thyme-scented edge play on nose. They continue on the slender, focused palate into a long trajectory of flavor that remains dry and refreshing throughout. Stacole Fine Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $43

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Felsner 2012 Gelbling Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Pale and interesting, it carries that arresting scent of Seville orange peel that somehow is herbal and citrusy at the same time. This generates energy and refreshment, tempered by a rich, dry and concentrated body with a super-clean and intensely lemony finish. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Josef Schmid 2012 Sunogeln Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). The charged scent of candied peach promises pleasure that the dry but deeply peachy palate keeps. The wine also conveys the pleasant bitterness of orange peel and refreshing crispness. Tastings Import Company. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Nigl 2012 Privat Senftenberger Pellingen Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). Perfumed and seductive, it leads with floral and peach notes. The citrus-like acidity is cushioned by lots of body, but freshness and linearity shine through beautifully. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Still restrained on the nose, this wine takes time to develop, but the underlying purity is most promising. There are stores of citrus, mandarin, orange and lemons together with juicy yellow pear and a clean vein of acidity. Drink as of 2016. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

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Stadt Krems 2012 Grillenparz Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). The enticing touch of Seville orange gets you at the very first whiff, combining sweet citrus with herb-scented ocean breeze. On the palate, notions of ripe peach join in, presenting a softer picture with a pliable, pleasing acidity. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Steininger 2012 Novemberlese Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). Ripe, sun-warmed peaches and a flash of lime zest frame the rich but wonderfully dry palate of this clean-cut, grown-up Riesling, which has enough concentration to balance that linear acid. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

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Arndorfer 2012 Die Leidenschaft Riesling (Niederösterreich). Soft notes of yellow pear and ripe red apple present a full-fruited but dry palate with rounded edges and easy likeability. Atypically, this Riesling spent a little time in oak barriques, which gives it a very different character

while preserving the pure, juicy apple fruit. Indie Wineries. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $60

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Zull 2012 Innere Bergen Riesling (Niederösterreich). Freshly cut green pears and crunchy, ripe apples have immediate appeal. This fruity freshness continues on the sleek and superclean palate, which leads to a refreshing, long finish. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $21

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Anton Bauer 2012 Alte Reben Riesling (Wagram-Donauland). Ripe red apples and an appealing, tangy grapefruit touch make this a delicious proposition for pairing with meals. Prescott Wines. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $35

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Fritsch 2012 Kapuzinerberg Riesling (Niederösterreich). Tight and spicy, it carries an underlying ripeness of apples and pears. A subtle Riesling, it shows breezy freshness and an acidityspiked texture that makes it invigorating. The slighest suggestion of pineapple lingers on the finish. Monika Caha Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Ebner-Ebenauer 2012 Alte Reben Riesling (Niederösterreich). Spicy herbal notes creep into a ripe nose of apricot and red apple. The same savory, earthy touch plays on the softened palate. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $47

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Kurt Angerer 2012 Ametzberg Riesling (Niederösterreich). Ripe yellow pear and apple juice notes spell plump ripeness, with a streamlined but well-cushioned body. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Lenikus 2012 Der Reisenberg Riesling Halbtrocken (Vienna). Plump and aromatically subdued with a touch of residual sweetness (halbtrocken), this shows some midpalate concentration and provides some citrusy refreshment. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

GRÜNER VELTLINER

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Salomon-Undhof 2012 Alte Reben Berglagen Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Rich aromas of late summer are here: the ripe peel of yellow pears, luscious peach and yellow Mirabelle plum plus some dried hayflower notes. There is power and depth, along with some alcoholic heat and balancing acidity—beautiful now but it will get even better. Drink until 2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

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Allram 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Pear, arugula, white pepper

and apricots take turns in dazzling nose and palate. A serious, concentrated and mineral vein of power also courses through this sleek wine, which holds even more future promise. Vias Imports. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Eichinger 2012 Gaisberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Lifted, lemony freshness mixes with lime zest on the nose. Underneath some pungent arugula also dances on the palate, where pepperiness and fresh acidity guarantee pleasure with this concentrated but toned white. WeygandtMetzler. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Eichinger 2012 Lamm Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Plump, ripe apricots play above a peppery, lemony core that bursts with juiciness and teases with salty minerality that keeps you wanting more. Delicious now, it promises lots of mileage. Drink until 2020. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

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Josef Jamek 2012 Ried Achleiten Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Red-cheeked apples, juicy pear and Mirabelle plums comes out to play here, tightly held by brilliant acidity. The undertone of herbal savoriness is glimpsed and will come to the fore as this ages. Drink as of 2016. Carlo Huber Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2012 Loiserberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Herbal touches of chervil and dill combine with grapefruit zest and a slender but muscular body. Shades of pepper spice are revealed on the tight palate that culminates in a long, delicious and savory finish. Drink as of 2016. Wein Bauer Inc.. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Lagler 2012 Steinborz Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Perfumed green pears, overlaid with the floral charm of summer blossom, characterize this concentrated yet lithe wine. Nonetheless, it is based on a firm core that suggests the ancient rocks where the vines grew. Little by little, a miso-like saltiness also reveals itself. MS Walker. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Salomon-Undhof 2012 Von Stein Berglagen Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). A spark of flint leaps out of the glass, followed by green plums and Conference pear. That stony touch also tempers the concentrated body and runs from start to pleasantly long finish, ending in a pleasantly bitter sting. Drink as of 2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

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Allram 2012 Hasel Alte Reben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). A hint of smoke plays about the nose; likewise, the palate is restrained.

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BUYINGGUIDE This tight, closed wine requires time to let ripe and concentrated pear fruit and lime appear. This long zesty grapefruit finish promises future pleasure. Drink as of 2016. Vias Imports. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Arndorfer 2012 Strasser Winberge Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Really ripe red and baked apples pervade nose and palate with their deep and juicy fruitiness. A lively acidic tang and midpalate concentration lead to a deeply satisfying, apple-charged finish. Indie Wineries. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $26

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Josef Schmid 2012 Kremser Gelbling Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Green pears announce themselves immediately, followed by riper pear flavors. This makes for a rich but still toned palate, where white pepper and leafy spice also come into play. Muscular but trim, this wine has the concentration to last. Drink until 2020. Tastings Import Company. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $35

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Aigner 2012 Privat Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Very ripe yellow pears set the scene. Richness continues on the palate, with the wine preserving a light touch without sacrificing concentration. Full marks for balance, charm and savory length. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2012 Käferberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Aromas of flint and meadow flowers mingle in this mineral but juicy and joyous wine. Grapefruit zest underlines the lively acidity. If you are after concentrated, zippy linearity, this is it. Wein Bauer Inc.. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Anton Bauer 2012 Grande Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland). Flint, ripe peaches and golden apricots with the merest hint of vanilla suggest the finest Viennese pastries. This well-judged and super-mellow wine is just rich enough, also giving hints of almond paste and lime peel. There is no heaviness, just velvety mouthfeel and sumptuous length. Prescott Wines. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $29

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Högl 2012 Schöne Alte Parzellen Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Wachau). The clean-cut lift of fresh green pear and grapefruit peel reveals fruity and juicy concentration on the midpalate, underlined by rocky minerality. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $66

Unger 2012 Oberfeld Alte Reben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). A touch of flintstone, a hint of soy-sauce savoriness and the ripe but fresh scent of green pears all bode well for a grippy, concentrated wine. It features a zesty, refreshing core and a lovely notion of wet pebbles. The body is slender and tight. Natural Selection Wines. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Eder 2012 Süssenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). The wine reveals savory depth that is almost soy-sauce-like, along with hints of nutmeg, white pepper and some arugula. They harmonize with ripe green pear fruit in this typically spicy white that finishes with lip-smacking and clean zest. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $30

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Gritsch Mauritiushof 2012 Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Ripe, round and savory notes emerge, almost with a touch of miso. The palate is a repository for zesty green citrus flavors and more of that enticing spice. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Gruber Röschitz 2012 Hundspoint Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Grapefruit zest dominates this wine right now, but ripe honeydew melon also is shining though. As the wine opens up, it also reveals peppery, tangy spice and a refreshingly clean finish. Total Wine & More. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $18

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Hager Matthias 2012 Seeberg Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Dried fruit flavors and the bitter tang of dark fir honey are spiked by concentrated lemony acidity. The nose and palate are round and rich, but tamed by acidity that runs through like an electric current. This rich, dry but distinctly late-harvest style wine, with just a touch of residual sugar, finishes with triumphant apple fruit and lemon zest. Acid Inc Selections. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

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Ingrid Groiss 2012 Sauberg Tradition Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). The delicate smoke and hazelnut scent of oak shines through and makes a frame for ripe apricot and Mirabelle plums. The palate is soft and rounded, set off by pizzazz from the lively acidity that underlines the juicy core. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $47

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Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2012 Lamm Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). While the nose discloses little, the palate displays an array of apricot, sharp arugula and white pepper with some grapefruit zest. Focused and streamlined, this wine delivers lip-smacking freshness, great concentration and a super-clean finish. Drink as of 2016. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Rudi Pichler 2012 Wösendorfer Kollmütz Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Subdued pear fruit is tightly coiled inside this rich and promising white. For now it has phenolic richness and wonderfully tangy acidity. In time the wine will show the luscious ripeness of this harvest. Drink as of 2016. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Unger 2012 Gotschelle Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). In this restrained wine, red apple and green pear flavors framed by a mineral backdrop suggest both austerity and longevity. There is well-controlled power here and surprising depth with just a twist of white pepper and a pure finish. Natural Selection Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Weixelbaum 2012 Alte Reben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). With the appetizing scent of lemon-spiked pear sorbet, it delivers breezy refreshment. A tight, linear body is displayed against a mineral backdrop. The finish is softer than expected, like a caress. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

Arndorfer 2011 Die Leidenschaft Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Bruised apple peel, ripe Golden Delicious apples and overtones of aromatic, dark fir honey are an unusual proposition, but a successful and intriguing one here. The palate is full and supple and highlighted by fresh apple acidity while the edges are framed by pleasant phenolic grip. This is a wine for grown-ups. Indie Wineries. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $55 Felsner 2012 Alte Reben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Hayflowers, summer meadows and ripe pears are conjured up by this wine. The palate is toned with a harmonious interplay of textural power and streamlined freshness. Grapefruit zestiness and herbal savoriness complete the tableau. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $27 Hermann Moser 2012 Hannah Reserve Gelbling Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). A little aeration and tropical notes of passion fruit add charm. This wine is restrained at first and stays streamlined along the way. Peppery spice enhances the wonderful refreshment edged with minerality. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Hiedler 2012 Thal Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Just faint touches of ripe, yellow pear appear on the nose, suggesting how tightly closed this wine still is. However, the generous palate is full of both green and yellow pears and injections of grapefruit acidity. Tight and long, it’s best kept for a while. Drink as of 2016. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA Hirsch 2012 Lamm Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). First a faint touch of flint and smoke appears, followed by subtle notes of green pear. Still fairly closed, the wine shows a tight body that will loosen into plumper ripeness. Intimations of orange peel and golden pear promise a great wine

with a rich mouthfeel and cleansing acidity. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $28

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Ingrid Groiss 2012 In der Schablau Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Luscious Mirabelle plums and honey melons are tempered by hints of smoke. The slender palate leaves an impression. Assertive but light, it finishes with a long, clean cut. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

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Jäger 2012 Achleiten Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Just a hint of ripe apricot is ready to appear. The rest of the fruit remains locked in a rich but concentrated midpalate where a pleasantly bitter phenolic grip gives extra character. Ripe but spiky acid forms a straight backbone and makes this a wine worth waiting for. Drink as of 2016. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Stift Göttweig 2012 Gottschelle Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). The quiet but full-fruited concentration of ripe yellow pears seems to be distilled here. While the aromatic expression is restrained, the palate shows concentration, warmth and phenolic grip—but an equally concentrated acidity provides backbone and lift. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Tegernseerhof 2012 Höhereck Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Lemon peel and yeast are in the starring roles for now, showing miso-like savor with smoky edges and glimpses of white pep-

per. The fruit will come later. For now, this is pure, textural pleasure, with a very clean-cut finish. KW Selection. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $44

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Türk 2012 Frechau Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). A little smoke, a little pear peel, some aloe vera... Nothing is overdone and all falls into place. On the palate a hint of rich, yeasty nuttiness jostles with ripe fruit, but all is under tight restraint. This wine will take time to show its glorious colors. Drink as of 2016. Niche Import Company. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

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Josef Schmid 2012 Alte Reben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Lifted and ultra-clean Conference pear signals a disciplined wine. The linear palate is equally pure, with zesty and fresh acidity against a background of these green pears and a mossy savoriness. Tastings Import Company. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Loimer 2012 Langenlois Spiegel Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). A touch of flint and hints of gunmetal show amidst yellow grapefruit and lime peel. The body is fresh and zesty but has a fullish core. Within a year or two the aromatics will fully open. Drink as of 2016. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $70

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Pichler-Krutzler 2012 Wunderburg Grüner Veltliner (Wachau). Dried hayflowers, juicy yellow pear and notes of dried coriander leaves are paired with a yeasty dollop of richness. Fruit recedes into the background while leaving layered aromatic play. Clean acidity underlies all, enhancing pairings with meals. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $55

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Rudi Pichler 2012 Wösendorfer Hochrain Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Grapefruit peel and ripe Mirabelle plums are just hinted at on this sleek white. Thrilling acidity counters alcoholic warmth and give poise to the concentrated body. It still needs to open up more but promises pleasure. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 15% Price: $80

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Stadt Krems 2012 Wachtberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). With a little air this wine will start flirting. Ripe white currant and sweet Golden Delicious apples appear on the palate. A lissom but fruity wine, it carries weight in all the right places. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $40

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Türk 2012 Kremser Sandgrube Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Tightly closed as a flower bud, this needs time to disclose its secrets. Gentle notes of ripe pear appear on the soft and supple palate. A core of lively acidity will keep the wine alive as it opens up. Niche Import Company. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

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Weixelbaum 2012 Wahre Werte Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Just-ripe green pears and scented spring flowers make this a charming proposition. Underneath, a firm and concentrated body unfolds into a refreshing and long finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

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Zull 2012 Äußere Bergen Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Intensely aromatic Williams Christ pear and minerality combine to make a sleek wine that leaves real impact. The palate is concentrated but toned. Fresh grapefruit zest amid ripe apricots makes this wine vivid and refreshing. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Forstreiter 2012 Tabor Die Rarität Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Ripe yellow plums and juicy yellow pears signal richness that is confirmed on the wonderfully textured, almost grippy palate. Fresh and zesty acidity saves this fullness and gives a lipsmacking finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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Hermann Moser 2012 Der Löss Reserve Gelbling Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Barely there but intriguing notes of pears draw you in first. The soft body promises refreshment and rounded pleasure, with just enough phenolic texture and a hint of salty minerality. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Hermann Moser 2012 Fortissimo Reserve Gelbling Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Grapefruit zest for now plays the starring role, but time will release riper stone fruit. Peppery edges already promise a great future, along with a long citrus finish. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

wonderful balance and length. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

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Martinshof 2012 Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Ripe Russet apples and a touch of the earthy, calming smell of wet hay introduce this rich, soft and supple white. Acidity tempers the roundness and channels the luscious apple fruit that has a pleasingly long but clean finish. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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R&A Pfaffl 2012 Hommage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Restrained notes of woodsmoke play around hints of ripe yellow pear. The palate boasts a backbone of acidity plus that famous varietal phenolic grip. Made for the long run, the wine will turn out rich and layered. Drink from 2016. Palm Bay International. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Tegernseerhof 2012 Bergdistel Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Aloe vera, green pear peel and ripe Mirabelle plums charm nose and palate on the soft and ripe palate. Despite the ripeness nothing is overdone and reaches a center of gravity. KW Selection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Mantlerhof 2012 Mosburgerin Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Ripe yellow pear, hazelnut and yeast form an alliance on nose and palate. They take turns and swirl in this slender yet concentrated and textured wine. A long finish brings breezy refreshment. T. Edward, The Age of Riesling. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Weixelbaum 2012 Ried Wechselberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Although the wine is tightly wound, it’s ready to spring into full-fruited apricot action. Mineral tautness runs through this rich, concentrated and seriouslyminded white. Drink from 2016. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $19

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Jäger 2012 Federspiel Selection Grüner Veltliner (Wachau). Conference pear and lemony acidity produce a clean-cut mouthfeel and real refreshment factor. The wine is concentrated but also is lean and soaring, supported by stony minerality. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

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Josef Ehmoser 2012 Georgenberg Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland). Touches of both flint and flowers come to the surface, later joined by gentle woodsmoke. All are held together with tight acidity on a linear but broad body. This achieves

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tannins, rich berry fruits and acidity. Drink from 2018. Wines & Beyond Import. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

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Château Potensac 2011 Médoc. Coming from the same stable as Léoville las Cases in SaintJulien, the wine is finely structured with firm tannins and dark fruit. Rich plum flavors are counterbalanced by solid tannins. It needs to age, so drink from 2018. Domaines Delon. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Château Preuillac 2011 Médoc. A strong Merlot element has produced a ripe, juicy wine, full of fruit balanced with a subtle use of wood. It’s a powerful, concentrated wine that has impressive

Château Grivière 2011 Médoc. Complex and solid, it holds rich berry fruits, a darkly tannic structure, dense texture and a juicy acidity. This firm wine has a good future, so don’t drink before 2017. Niche Import Company. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 Château La Branne 2011 Médoc. While the wine is dominated by flavors of wood aging, it also has fine fruit weight that will come through. Then it will be a powerful and concentrated wine, rich and full of blackberry and black plum fruits. The structure will keep this fruitiness in order. Drink from 2017. BNP Distributing. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 Château La Cardonne 2011 Médoc. It shows good weight, ripe fruit and well-judged wood aging. Berry fruit flavors are supported by dusty tannins and a dense texture. At the end, the juicy acidity gives a shot of freshness. Age this wellbalanced wine and drink from 2017. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

Château la Gravette Lacombe 2011 Médoc. An obviously wood-aged wine, it has smoky aromas and flavors that are covering the ripe blackberry fruits. Along with the firm tannins and structure, it makes for a rich, full wine that needs aging. Drink from 2017. Spec’s. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18 Château les Grands Chênes 2011 Médoc. A big, rich and juicy wine that is smooth and full of black plum juice flavors. It brings out firm tannins, ripe fruits and a generous texture. It’s dense, solid and ready for aging. Drink from 2017. Bernard Magrez. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

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Château Lousteauneuf 2011 Médoc. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a rich and solid wine, perfumed as well as structured. The ripe fruits are firmly tannic while also supporting ripe black currant and berry fruits, and lively acidity. Age this wine and drink from 2017. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Château Fontis 2011 Médoc. Half-and-half Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this is a dense and solidly tannic wine. It has a firm structure, ripe black currant juiciness and a dense texture. The flavors and richness promise good aging, so drink from 2017. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Grand Bertin de Saint Clair 2011 Médoc. While the wine shows plenty of wood

aging, dry flavors, it also has a good weight of fruit and richness. That gives both structure and weight that promise a good future. It has density, dusty tannins and good power. Drink from 2016. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Les Trois Manoirs 2011 Médoc. A finely perfumed wine, it has rich berry fruits, soft tannins and hints of spice from wood aging. It is well balanced, ripe and juicy. At the end, fresh acidity comes through strongly. Drink from 2015. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Château Chantemerle 2011 Médoc. A serious wine that is full of dark tannins as well as ripe berry fruits. It is dry, very firm, offering a solid structure and concentration. It needs aging, so drink from 2017. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Château Clément Saint-Jean 2011 Médoc. While the tannins in this wine are firm and dry, it also has attractive black fruitiness, sweet berry flavors and a refreshing acidity. That gives the wine balance and a lift. It is developing well but needs time, so drink from 2017. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Château Escot 2011 Médoc. While there are firm tannins here, the wine also has rich fruit. The two together, allied to the concentration, promise some good aging for a solidly made wine. Fine acidity cuts through in the aftertaste. Drink from 2017. Sommit Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Greysac 2011 Médoc. Showing considerable wood flavor, this wine has some tough tannins to overcome before it really shows its best. The fruit is ripe, full and packed with blackberry flavors. Once fully integrated, the wine should reveal more of a luscious side. Drink from 2017. By Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

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Château Haut Bana 2011 Médoc. An elegant wine, it has both fine structure and dense red berry fruits. The ensemble is balanced, rich while not overpowering. Drink this wine from 2016. Simonin N Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Château Leboscq 2011 Médoc. Big, bold and very fruity, this is a black-currant-dominated wine. It’s full of broad brush strokes of acidity and spice from wood aging. Still young, it needs to be aged. Drink from 2016. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

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Château Lestruelle 2011 Médoc. A perfumed wine, it’s full of soft, ripe black fruits. Spice and gentle tannins support the rich fruitiness. A touch of wood gives bitterness at this stage, and that needs to soften. The aftertaste though has the freshness of the vintage. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 Château Beauvillage 2010 Médoc. Showing the richness and structure of the 2010 vintage, this is an opulent wine, full of black fruits. It has a dark structure, smoky bacon flavors and powerful tannins. Ripe and generous, the fruit can cope with this structure. It does need to age, so drink from 2017. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Château Bessan Ségur 2011 Médoc. Strong wood aromas lead to a wine that is still very young. The smoky wood character dominates the red berry fruits and typical acidity of the vintage. It does have the weight to develop well, so give this structured wine until 2017. Grape News Importing. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

Château Blaignan 2011 Médoc. Already an easy, ripe wine, this is fruity, rich and developing well. Its black currant and berry fruits give a sense of freshness, while smoky tannins suggest structure. It’s not powerful, but will be very enjoyable. Drink from 2017. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

Château les Anguilleys 2011 Médoc. A fruity and juicy wine, it also has a stalky, herbal element. That gives a fresh character to the wine while also showing lightness. The black currant fruits are strong and forward, with a hint of maturity that suggests this is for medium-term aging. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

Château Pierre de Montignac 2011 Médoc. A gently perfumed wine, it has ripe, juicy black-fruit flavors and a backing of tannins. It’s balanced with the dry core surrounded by rich fruitiness and a burst of final acidity. It could be drunk now, but will be better from 2016. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château Poitevin 2011 Médoc. This is a bold, ripe and fruity wine. It has rich black currant fruits, solid tannins and a dense texture. Very aromatic, it is powered by its dry core that is showing signs of softening and rounding out. Drink from 2017. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Château Potensac 2011 Chapelle de Potensac (Médoc). Soft, round and juicy, this is a wine meant to be drunk young. It has light tannins, fresh with berry fruits and black currants. Drink now. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Château Ramafort 2011 Médoc. This perfumed wine is split equally between CaberWINEMAG.COM | 95

BUYINGGUIDE net Sauvignon and Merlot. Its tannins, already softening, support a juicy, black currant flavor, with fine acidity and a texture that only needs medium-term aging. Drink from 2016. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

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Château Tour Saint-Vincent 2011 Médoc. Still showing its wood aging, this is a complex and ripe wine. It has weight, ripe berry fruits and juicy acidity, all supported by a firm, dry tannic structure. It’s a wine for medium-term aging, so drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

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Château Tour Seran 2011 Médoc. Blended by top sommelier Andreas Larsson, this is a smooth, plush wine, attractively balancing acidity and black currant fruits with a core of smoky tannins. The wine has a fruity character, finished with acidity and a light structure. Drink from 2016. By Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Goulée 2011 Médoc. Cos d’Estournel’s Médoc property produces wines that are all fruit. This is typical, a medley of black and red fruits on a light bed of tannins. The downside is a rustic flavor that needs to blow away. Give the wine until 2015. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Château Bel Air 2011 Haut-Médoc. In this rich, full wine, impressive fruits and structure work together. It feels weighty, concentrated and tannic while also having layers of juicy ripe black currant fruits. Give this solid wine several years and don’t drink before 2018. Vino et Spiritus. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

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Château Beaumont 2011 Haut-Médoc. An impressive wine, it already shows signs of its potential. It is elegant, with ripe fruits and layers of dark tannins. As it opens, blackberry fruits come through strongly, balancing the firm structure. Drink from 2018. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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Château Clément-Pichon 2010 Haut-Médoc. The estate is under the same ownership as Château la Dominique in Saint-Émilion. This dense wine balances acidity with intense fruitiness. The tannins are now softening, giving a rich structure plus a concentrated leather and spice character. Drink from 2016. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Château Larose Perganson 2011 Haut-Médoc. Almost black in color, this is a solid, firm and ripe wine. It has a smooth wood character that is round and rich with black plum and berry fruit fla-

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vors. With its dark underlying texture, it will age, so drink from 2017. Votto Vines Importing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40

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Château Le Monteil d’Arsac 2011 Haut-Médoc. Produced by the same team as Margaux Château d’Arsac, this is a smooth, powerful wine. It has firm tannins, a solid structure and black plum fruits. Everything is in place for good aging. Drink from 2017. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Malescasse 2011 Haut-Médoc. It combines rich fruit and complex layers of wood and tannin. A concentrated wine, it’s packed with ripe berry fruits, touches of licorice and dark chocolate. A wine for aging, it needs to wait until 2018. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19

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Château Pontoise Cabarrus 2011 Haut-Médoc. Almost black, this dense wine is powered by dusty tannins that underly the ripe black plum fruits, intense juiciness and solid concentration. The considerable wood does not spoil the fruitiness of the wine. Drink from 2017. The Country VintnerCraft and Estate. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Château Cissac 2011 Haut-Médoc. This much-improved château is now performing well, as evidenced by this powerful and tannic wine. Showing ripe fruits, sweet tannins and tight acidity, it has weight, great spice from the wood aging and a deliciously juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2017. Elite Wines Import. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

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Château d’Agassac 2011 Haut-Médoc. The showpiece, moated Château of Agassac has produced a luscious, fruity 2011. It has both juicy blackberry fruits, warm tannins and just a core of dryness to promise aging. Elegant, ripe and fragrant, this wine should be drunk from 2017. MS Walker. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29

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Château de Malleret 2011 Haut-Médoc. A ripe and fruity wine that displays the natural fruitiness of the vintage. It has weight, richness, plenty of black currant and plum flavors. The structure is there, promising good aging potential. With both fruit and dark tannins, it shouldn’t be drunk before 2017. Esprit du Vin. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Château Devise d’Ardilley 2011 Haut-Médoc. A big, ripe and spicy wine, it is full of black currant and berry flavors. The wood aging gives a dry edge to the rich, juicy fruitiness. It’s a strong, full-bodied wine that will age. Drink from 2018. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Meyre 2011 Haut-Médoc. A smoky, dusty textured wine, it has good swathes of black fruits. It is rich and full in the mouth, lightly perfumed and with juicy acidity. Blackberries partner the firm tannins of this solid wine with good potential. Drink from 2017. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Bernadotte 2011 Haut-Médoc. Made by the same team as Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, this wine is ripe, full and satisfying. It has smooth red berry fruits that are sustained by subtle wood aging and given a final lift by the acidity. For medium-term aging, so drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Charmail 2011 Haut-Médoc. The initial sense of structure is rounded out by the ripe berry fruits. It’s a dense wine, full of firm tannins but with fine acidity, sweet fruitiness and a sense of brooding power. It will be a rich wine, so wait until 2018. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Doyac 2011 Haut-Médoc. Dominated by Merlot (75%), this is a ripe and smooth wine. At present, the 12-months wood aging shows strongly, leaving behind the black fruits and mineral texture. It’s a wine for some serious aging, so don’t drink before 2018. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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Château Hanteillan 2011 Haut-Médoc. The wine is closed up at this stage, just showing structure and only hints of dark fruit. However, there is a feeling of power and a dense texture that need time to open up. The result is a wine full of potential, finishing with some juicy fruitiness. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Château Lestage Simon 2011 Haut-Médoc. This is a dark, young-colored wine, its purple shade reflecting the dense wood and tanninladen flavors. It has spice and some bitter extract but these are balanced by ripe blackberry fruits and a rich texture. Drink from 2017. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29

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Château Liversan 2011 Haut-Médoc. A finely integrated and ripe wine that is full of rich fruits and solid, dusty tannins. It has good concentration, sweet black fruits and great acidity. It will age well; drink from 2017. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Château Saint-Paul 2011 Haut-Médoc. This wine, with its equal proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, is full of potential. With dark tannins and concentrated fruits, it’s a big wine that needs years to show its underlying freshness. Drink from 2018. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

Clos la Bohème 2011 Haut-Médoc. A dark and dense wine, it is full of black juicy fruits and has considerable weight. It shows some bitter extract but this is counterbalanced by the rich, blackberry juice flavors. It should be aged, so drink from 2017. Chartrand Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

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Château Bibian 2011 Haut-Médoc. In this still very young wine, the tannins dominate, but the fruitiness is there to come out later. With power, black fruits and touches of dark chocolate, it will be a fine, rich wine. Drink from 2017. Leonard Kreusch. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Château Cambon la Pelouse 2011 HautMédoc. This is a warm, soft and rich wine. Coming from vines close to Margaux, it has something of the light touch of that appellation. Fruity, with fresh berry fruits and already well-integrated tannins, it’s likely to mature over the medium term. Drink from 2016. Millésima USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Château Dasvin-Bel-Air 2011 Haut-Médoc. A big, ripe and smoky wine, it displays a fruity, juicy undertow. It is developing well, giving great black currant fruitiness, some dense tannins and final acidity. Drink from 2017. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

Château Barreyres 2011 Haut-Médoc. This is a dry, structured wine, with dry tannins and stalky fruit characteristics. However, it will develop into a fruity wine without great depth but with attractive berry flavors and acidity. Drink from 2016. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Château Belle-Vue 2011 Haut-Médoc. Very classic in style, it has firm tannins that come before black currant fruits. Its structure is dry, lightly smoky from wood aging and with a crisper fruit character underneath. The tannins need to soften before the wine can be drunk with pleasure, so wait until 2017. Signature Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Château de Gironville 2011 Haut-Médoc. Ripe, juicy and relatively soft, it’s a great wine for early drinking. The black currant fruits are rich, soft, just cut by the acidity and with smoky tannins that lie comfortably underneath. Drink from 2016. Signature Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

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Château de Sainte-Gemme 2011 Haut-Médoc. A soft, gently fruity wine, it has warm tannins, layers of smooth vanilla from wood aging and a finish that brings out the acidity of the vintage.

Fresh, fruity and ready to drink. Delbos Bouteiller. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Haut-Bellevue 2011 Haut-Médoc. With a majority of Merlot in the blend, this is a smooth and ripely rich wine. It has sweet berry fruits, soft tannins and good juicy acidity. At this stage, the wood shows strongly, but the fruit will soon develop. Drink from 2016. Blue Coast International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Château Hourtin-Ducasse 2011 Haut-Médoc. This wine is packed with fruit tannins and dense black currant fruits. It’s rich, structured, very dry with its tannins and firm. It’s a solid effort that is going to develop well. Drink from 2017. Cutting Edge Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

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Château Maucamps 2011 Haut-Médoc. A firm and structured wine, it has solid tannins to partner the black currant fruits. A bitter flavor comes from extraction, giving a burnt character that spoils this big wine. Drink from 2017. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Château de Braude 2011 Haut-Médoc. A wood-laden wine, it still manages to bring out its inherent fruitiness. It’s a ripe wine, showing spice from the wood and juicy blackberry flavors, well packaged and finished off with acidity. Drink this attractive wine from 2016. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

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Château La Lauzette 2011 Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Haut-Médoc). A firm and fruity wine, it has subtle wood flavors that give a polished feel. It is finely integrated, ripe with red berry fruits and black plum skins and likely to age over the medium term. Drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Château Lacour Jacquet 2011 Haut-Médoc. This is a warm and ripe wine with rounded berry fruits, soft tannins and layers of wood aging. It has a full, juicy character contrasted with a mineral texture that gives some edginess. It is still young, so don’t drink before 2017. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Château Ramage la Batisse 2011 HautMédoc. A firmly tannic wine, dry and concentrated, it will require aging. The juicy red berry fruits and acidity will need time to show through the powerful structure. Give it until 2018. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $54

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Château Peyrat-Fourthon 2011 Haut-Médoc. While the wood-aging flavors are strong and prominent, so is the ripe, berry fruit. That gives the wine a potential balance that will bring out richness, spice and freshness typical of the vintage. Drink from 2017. Free Run Partners, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Château Reysson 2011 Haut-Médoc. Rich already, this wine is darkly tannic and powered by solid tannins. The weight of fruit behind the tannins also brings out acidity and black currant flavors. It will remain dry but well structured and with good fruitiness. Drink from 2017. Thiénot USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Château Sociando-Mallet 2010 L’Autre de Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc). A second wine from Sociando-Mallet, this is ripe, soft and generously fruity. It has red berry fruits and a gentle structure that brings out some warm tannins. It’s ready to drink. Victoire Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

SPAIN RÍAS BAIXAS

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Granbazán 2012 Etiqueta Ámbar Albariño (Rías Baixas). In a solid vintage like 2012, there are always many good Albariños to choose from, but this one rises above the masses. Flower blossom and peach aromas are minerally and tight. In the mouth, the acidity is peachy more than citric, while flavors of nectarine and clementines finish with persistence. Drink now. Europvin USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

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Granbazán 2012 Etiqueta Verde Albariño (Rías Baixas). Dry white-fruit aromas come with nuances of cured Spanish ham and flower blossoms. This feels round and minerally, with a slight bit of spritz. Flavors of stone fruits and nottoo-sweet mango end with additional minerality. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

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Fillaboa 2012 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Typical apple and straw aromas are ripe and pure. In the mouth, this is lean, racy and spritzy, with elegance and fine lines. Flavors of pineapple, nectarine and pink grapefruit finish on a wave of citric acidity. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

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Pazo de Señorans 2012 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Melon, apricot and leesy vanilla notes work the bouquet on this juicy, fruit-forward white. In the mouth, this perennial favorite is citrusy and tight, with less creamy lees action than in years

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past. Flavors of nectarine, citrus and pith finish with force. European Cellars. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

through 2025. Grapes of Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

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Val do Sosego 2012 Albariño (Rías Baixas). With proper doses of orange rind, vanilla, minerality and melon on the nose, this opens in very good form. The palate is round, pithy and citric in feel, while flavors of white grapefruit, orange and melon finish with a mild oily mouthfeel and a touch of bitterness. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

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Condes de Albarei 2012 Salneval Albariño (Rías Baixas). Vanilla wafer, dusty apple and minerality combine to form a clean, true Albariño bouquet. The mouthfeel is solid, with acidic kick, while flavors of pastry, citrus, apple and spice meld nicely in front of a long, fresh finish that’s neither pointed nor acidic. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

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Maior de Mendoza 2012 Argos Albariño (Rías Baixas). Melon, peach, leesy vanilla and mineral aromas are what you want from this type of wine. The palate is juicy and fresh, with nectarine, orange and pineapple flavors. A racy finish is confirmation of this Albariño’s zesty character. Beacon Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

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Martín Códax 2012 Albariño (Rías Baixas). For full review see page 77. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

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Zarate 2012 Albariño (Rías Baixas). This shows stalky, corny notes on the nose along with mineral and white-fruit scents. There’s a lemony quality to an otherwise neutral palate, while saline, lemon and mild but increasing bitterness control the flavor profile and finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

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Lusco 2012 Albariño (Rías Baixas). After a flabby, gaseous and sulfuric opening, this moves on to a full, almost oily palate with citrus flavors, primarily grapefruit. Dried papaya notes and mild oxidation take over on the finish. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $35

RIBERA DEL DUERO

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Astrales 2010 Christina (Ribera del Duero). This dynamite Tempranillo hails from a top producer and a top vintage. Aromas of toasty oak, graphite, coffee and blackberry feed into a rugged but generous palate fueled by firm tannins. Dark, toasty flavors of blackberry, cassis and chocolate finish long, with mild heat and menthol notes that suggest aging is appropriate. Drink from 2015

Portia 2010 Triennia de Bodegas Portia Roble (Ribera del Duero). For full review see page

75. abv: 14.5%

Price: $75

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Viña Mayor 2010 Secreto Vendimia Seleccionada (Ribera del Duero). Raspberry and plum aromas are clean and welcoming. This is a firm, well-built wine, with crisp acidity and solid but not grating tannins. Flavors of toast, chocolate, blackberry and plum precede a chocolaty, warm, cushioned finish. Drink through 2018. Habarcelo North America. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Emilio Moro 2010 Ribera del Duero. Aromas of dried cheese, iodine and candied fruits settle with airing. In the mouth, this is firm and tannic, with savory, oaky flavors of hickory, blackened toast and roasted berry fruits. On the finish, there’s both weight and elegance. Best from 2015 through 2020. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

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Legaris 2010 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Smoky, toasty aromas ride comfortably on top of blackberry and cassis scents. This is a tannic, pinched wine with plenty of structure. Loamy berry flavors come with ample but not overpowering oak notes, while the finish is firm, healthy and tight. Drink through 2020. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

RIOJA

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Marqués de Murrieta 2009 Dalmau (Rioja). Lusty blackberry and cassis aromas ride onto a balanced, fresh palate, while flavors of red berry, chocolate, fig and various spices finish nicely, with a tobacco-like note. This could use another year or so to settle; drink from 2015 on. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $69

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Artadi 2009 Pagos Viejos (Rioja). Minerally aromas of iodine, charred beef and burnt coffee are dark and smoky. This modern, smoothbodied Rioja is freindly and complete on the palate, while flavors of dark berries, prune, chocolate and espresso push things in the direction of jammy. This is ripe to the max, with loads of fruit and flavor but a soft structure. Drink through 2020. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $100

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Bodegas Tobia 2009 Alma Tobia (Rioja). Black plum, licorice and cool green-herb aromas rest in front of a full-bodied, tannic, chunky palate. Flavors of herbal black fruits come with a salty edge and a meaty underbelly. A long, rolling,

deep finish is encouraging and stout. Best from 2018–2024. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

91

Vallobera 2009 Terran de Vallobera (Rioja). Bold berry, plum and floral notes are welcoming. This feels full and smooth, with weight and integrated yet present tannins. A ripe, creamy palate delivers a load of berry fruit touched up by mocha, while a vanilla note sweetens and softens the finish. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

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Bodegas Tobia 2007 Oscar Tobia Reserva (Rioja). This is a blocky, big Rioja, with coffee, earth and slightly stewed aromas that suggest warmth and ripeness. A deep, saturated palate is round and a touch jagged, while fig, prune and baked berry flavors finish earthy, slightly pruny and round. Drink this ripe wine now through 2017. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $28

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Finca del Marquesado 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Direct blackberry and cassis aromas are on the dark side and inviting. This feels fresh and a touch wiry, while flavors of vanilla, tobacco, brandied cherry and plum are traditional and true to the region. Finishing flavors of clove and spice run dry and toasty. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Marqués de Cáceres 2007 Reserva Especial Edición Limitada (Rioja). Dense black-fruit aromas are potent but limited in scope and elegance. In the mouth, this is saturated, creamy and oaky. Flavors of loamy, roasted berry fruits have a gamy, salty backing, while the finish is grabby, ripe and roasted in character. Drink through 2018. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $26

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Bodegas Valdemar 2007 Conde de Valdemar Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 76. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

Viña Salceda 2007 Reserva (Rioja). Dry berry, tobacco, herb and vanilla aromas create a classic Rioja nose. This is a direct, focused wine, with cherry and plum flavors backed by loam, vanilla and earthy notes. The finish is medium in intensity, with length and smooth tannins. Drink this easy-to-like wine now. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Contino 2009 Single Vineyard Graciano (Rioja). Judged against other modern, very ripe 2009 Rioja wines, this Graciano is austere. Minerally, gritty black-fruit aromas give way to a juicy, hard-driving, high-acid palate, with salty, roasted black-fruit flavors. A shearing finish with saline notes and zesty acidity is what you get from this single-vineyard varietal wine. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $130

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CVNE 2005 Imperial Gran Reserva (Rioja). Hailing from a warm year, this wine is still a brute. Smoky, rubbery aromas of cassis and strawberry vascilate between ripe and candied. This is full-volume, even pushy, on the palate, with blazing acidity and rocky, spicy, peppery berry flavors. Let this rest at least another five years; revisit in 2019– 2020. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

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Viña Herminia 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Sturdy black plum aromas feed into a dense, juicy, secure palate, with deep flavors of blackberry and loamy plum. The finish is smooth, mature and pure, with lasting berry flavors and integrated oak. Drink now. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

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CVNE 2007 Imperial Reserva (Rioja). Cherry aromas are firm and don’t evolve much in the glass. This is intense on the palate, with strong acidity that lends tartness to sinewy plum and berry flavors. Minor accents of spice and toast finish with espresso bitterness. Drink through 2020. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

Carlos Serres 2007 Reserva (Rioja). Light touches of dill and mint accent earthy redberry aromas. This is firm and healthy in the mouth, but generic as a whole. Flavors of berry fruits are anonymous, with briny, salty notes. Rasbperry and a touch of saline is what pushes the finish. Drink through 2017. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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CVNE 2007 Viña Real Oro Reserva (Rioja). Minerality and rosy notes of talcum powder and raspberry are red in character. In the mouth, this is tight as nails. Flavors of red fruits are tart due to blazing acidity, while blackened notes of toast and espresso fill out the finish. Drink through 2020. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Faustino Rivero Ulecia 2006 Black Label Reserva (Rioja). Plum, berry and a pinch of hard rubber make up the nose on this maturing Rioja. The mouth is firm and mildly astringent, while lightly baked, malty flavors of berry fruits and saline finish tight and with a lasting salty impression. Vinaio Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

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Dinastía Vivanco 2009 Colección Vivanco Parcelas Maturana (Rioja). Judged against more familiar varietal wines, this Maturana comes across as unusual, but not bad. Herbal aromas of juniper and briny berry are typical for the grape. Flavors of stewed blueberry, juniper and herbs are naturally green-leaning and a bit odd. This is something to explore. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $90

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Carlos Serres 2007 Onomastica Reserva (Rioja). Bring on the funk! This smells unsure and soapy, while the palate feels hard and spiky. Flavors of black cherry and bitter greens come with a woody lift, while the finish is abrasive and a bit hot. The 2004 version of Onomastica was better. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

PRIORAT

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Clos Figueras 2009 Font de la Figuera (Priorat). Cherry, cassis and plum aromas are clean as polished glass. This feels fruity and firm, with good flow. Peppery blackberry and minerally cassis are the lead flavors, whiile the finish brings schisty minerality and integrated but noted acidity. Best from 2016–2019. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Cellers Unió 2009 Roureda Llicorella Gran Selecció Vitis 60 (Priorat). Jammy, ripe blueberry and blackberry aromas belie a crisp, tight palate, with wild berry, licorice and peppery flavors. This is fresh, wiry, firmly structured and alert as well as comfortable and controlled. Think classic Priorat to drink through 2018. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

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Scala Dei 2009 Prior (Priorat). Minerally and focused on the nose, this smells of stony red fruits, oak and spice. In the mouth, Prior is firm, ripe and schisty. Flavors of minerally black fruits finish direct, long and pure, with character. Drink this handsome wine now through 2019. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $27

fruit scents. This is a tannic, grippy monster with a mix of licorice, medicinal and black-fruit flavors. The finish is staunch and tannic, with creamy oak notes and a borderline syrupy feel. Drink from 2016 through 2025. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $120

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Dominio Dostares 2007 Cumal Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Prieto Picudo is largely an unknown variety with a propensity for yielding weird wines. But this offering is made cleanly, and in an internationally familiar style. Aromas of licorice root, tobacco and cedar rest atop a base of black-fruit scents. The palate is juicy and tannic, while plum and berry flavors are surrounded by mocha, coffee and graphite notes. Drink or hold through 2018. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $48

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Mauro 2010 Red (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This firm Tempranillo-led blend is meaty and leathery on the nose, with minerally black-fruit scents. The palate is wide and tannic, while flavors of blackberry, cassis and chocolate flow into the toasty finish alongside solid but not fierce tannins. Give this another couple of years; best from 2016 through 2022. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

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Mas de Subirà 2009 Priorat. Stalky, somewhat rubbery aromas of plum and berry come in front of the grabby, tannic, staunch palate, with baked, leathery flavors of plum and berry. While this tastes stalky on the finish, the feel is good. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $30

TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEÓN

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Abadia Retuerta 2010 Pago Negralada Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Feral, rustic aromas of sweaty leather, tar, animal hide and dried cheese override core berry

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Paso a Paso 2012 Made with Organic Grapes Tempranillo (La Mancha). Big black-fruit aromas of plum and wild berry get this young Tempranillo off to a good start. This feels juicy and as fresh as basic Spanish red wine gets; flavors of blackberry, dark plum and a hint of chocolate are rolled into one and finish clean. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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Gran Castillo Royal 2008 Crianza Tempranillo (La Mancha). Friendly but standard aromas of berry fruits and creamy oak set up a mature, earthy feeling plate, with berry and coffee flavors. A soft, aged, mature finish is earthy in character and ultimately a bit hollow. Ecu Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Manuel Manzaneque Suárez 2012 ¡Ea! Tempranillo (La Mancha). Fruity and balanced up front, this is juicy and fresh on the palate, and just the slightest bit rich and chewy. Loamy darkberry fruit flavors are matched by chocolate and bitter coffee notes, while the finish is mellow, toasty and dark. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $21

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Paso a Paso 2012 Tempranillo (La Mancha). Robust black-fruit aromas suggest plum and blackberry. This everyday red is concentrated, generous and packed with power. Flavors of dark berry fruits, chocolate and espresso finish with verve and clarity. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $9

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Gran Castillo Royal 2008 Reserva Tempranillo (La Mancha). Dusty aromas of plum and cherry come with a slight note of celery leaf. This

J. Garcia Carrion 2012 Ópera Prima Shiraz (La Mancha). For full review see page 79. Best

Buy. abv: 12.5%

Price: $7

ARGENTINA

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Abadia Retuerta 2010 Pago Garduña Syrah (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Animal fur, roasted fruit and coffee grinds are the key aromas on this hefty, warm Syrah. In the mouth, this has a bullish, tannic personna. Flavors of baked berry fruits, herbs and ink finish with resiny oak and herbal-lactic notes alongside powerful tannins. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $120

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Los 800 2009 Priorat. After initial sharp, citric aromas, this settles on minerally redfruit scents. The palate is compact and tight, with fresh acidity and a good body. Flavors of cherry, cassis and raspberry feed into a firm finish that’s honest and appealing. Drink through 2017. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $22

Tempranillo is crisp, direct and tangy on the palate, with racy cherry and plum flavors that bring a touch of licorice. The finish is long, juicy and plummy. Ecu Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23

CHARDONNAY

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Viña Cobos 2013 Felino Chardonnay (Mendoza). Dusty apricot and melon aromas come with plenty of oak and vanilla. The palate is on the flat and creamy side, with peachy acidity. Flavors of mild citrus, vanilla and wood resin finish with additional vanilla notes and a hint of papaya. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

85

Salentein 2013 Portillo Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Basic apple and citrus aromas are dusty and straightforward. This feels citrusy and fresh, with little to no oak. Flavors of nectarine, white grapefruit and orange finish firm and fresh. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

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Domaine Jean Bousquet 2013 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Chardonnay (Tupungato). Apple and pear aromas are mildly oaky and basic. The palate offers some creaminess in front of short flavors of melon and papaya that finish hollow and with a touch of banana. Domaine Jean Bousquet. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Zuccardi 2012 Serie A Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Tropical fruit and vanilla-cookie aromas come with a note of nectarine. This feels juicy, racy and citric, with flavors of tangerine and nec-

tarine. Despite having tangy acidity, the wine turns heavy on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

TORRONTÉS

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Durigutti 2013 Torrontés (Mendoza). Aromas of tangerine and tropical fruits are clean as a whistle. This feels juicy and fresh as a mountain stream. Flavors of citrus are slightly pithy and bitter, while the finish flows on a beam of acidity toward a clean ending. Southern Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $13

side, with ample acidity. Flavors of stone fruits and papaya finish briny. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $15

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Salentein 2013 Portillo Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Uco Valley). A combination of white-fruit, citrus and matchstick aromas set up a light-bodied, wan-tasting SB. This offers flavors of nectarine, citrus and underripe mango in front of a cleansing, citric finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

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Mendel 2013 Semillon (Mendoza). A mix of tropical-fruit aromas blend with nutty, reduced scents that are harsh. This is bolstered by juicy, citric acids. The flavor profile is nutty and throws in blasts of green banana and papaya. Bitterness and oiliness characterize the finish. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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Santa Julia 2013 [+] Torrontés (Mendoza). Light, airy aromas of tropical fruits and kaffir lime are modest. In the mouth, the wine is tight and chalky. Flavors of lime, lychee and green apple finish firm, with nice acidity and a slight oily character. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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Valentin Bianchi 2013 Leo Torrontés (Mendoza). This is a mild, neutral Torrontés with yeasty notes and hints of tropical fruits. The palate is smooth but simple, while flavors of melon and green papaya finish with lingering lychee notes. Overall this is plump, fresh and good. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $17

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Zuccardi 2013 Serie A Torrontés (Salta). Crisp, minerally aromas suggest citrus pith and saltiness. This feels bright and zesty as it dances on the palate. Flavors of tropical fruits, lychee and melon are generic and turn slightly bitter on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Fat Gaucho 2012 Reserva Torrontés (Mendoza). Ocean water and green banana are the lead aromas on this mostly neutral white. A light body with modest structure houses lime and tangerine flavors. The finish is juicy in feel but turns bitter as it rolls out. Fat Gaucho Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

OTHER WHITE WINES

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Mil Piedras 2013 Viognier (Vista Flores). Light, clean, fresh aromas of tropical fruits and lychee resemble those of a Torrontés. The palate is light and mild, while flavors of melon, lychee and citrus pith are forward but don’t come with a lot of backing or complexity. Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

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Bodega Carmine Granata 2013 Estate Bottled Semillon (Mendoza). Nectarine, peach pit and a dusty, oily scent define the nose on this mid-level, quaffable white. The body is on the plump

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BUYINGGUIDE MALBEC

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SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Reserva Malbec (Valle de Uco). For full review see page 73. Editors’ Choice. abv: 15.3% Price: $50

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Kaiken 2009 Mai Malbec (Mendoza). This high-end Malbec defines maximum ripeness combined with balance. The color is opaque purple, the texture is chewy and silky, and the nose pumps out aromas of raisin, baked berry, pastry and chocolate. Flavors of herbs, baked berry, spice and generous oak land on a toasted, loamy, full-fruit finish that’s heavy but luxurious. Drink through 2016. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $90

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TintoNegro 2012 1955 Vineyard Estate Grown Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 75. abv: 14% Price: $100

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Trivento 2010 Golden Reserve Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Aromas of ripe blackberry, prune and minerality are upright and intense. The palate is lush, smooth and balanced, while blackberry and cassis lead the flavor assault. A deep, long and delicious finish confirms that this wine offes great value for just over $20. Excelsior Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

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Los Vencejos 2010 Malbec (Uco Valley). Floral hints, latex, vanilla, oak and ripe berry aromas all show up on a fine bouquet. Ripe and creamy in feel, it holds dark, hard-pushing flavors of licorice, anise, coffee and blackberry. There’s agility, elegance and complexity to this Malbec. Drink through 2017. Two Pines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

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TeHo 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Blackberry, blueberry and creamy vanilla aromas comprise a sweet, chunky, very ripe bouquet. The mouthfeel is full, succulent and bouncy, while flavors of creamy oak, baking spices and black fruits finish with juicy acidity and plenty of wood, chocolate and licorice notes. 150 cases made; drink through 2018. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $95

additional chocolate richness. Drink through 2018. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $79

carry the finish on this ready-to-drink Malbec. Two Pines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $23

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DiamAndes 2011 de Uco Malbec (Uco Valley). Chunky, slightly rubbery aromas revolve around black fruits and oak. This is a dense, thick wine with blackberry, plum, fig and bitter chocolate flavors. The finish is dark and weighty in this meaty Malbec. Wineberry America LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

Fabre Montmayou 2011 Phebus Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Solid plum and berry aromas come with mild chocolaty oak scents, while the palate is ripe and pure, with just enough beefy volume. Flavors of blackberry, mixed spices and herbal notes finish long and nice. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

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Finca Lalande 2012 Made with organically grown grapes Malbec (Tupungato). This wonderful under-$20 Malbec opens with a blast of black-fruit aromas as well as mild rubber scents and minerality. The palate is solid, with baked berry and integrated saline and mineral flavors. A bright, lively finish with a ton of berry essence closes this out. Domaine Bousquet. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

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Trapiche 2010 Finca Las Palmas Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Dusty, creamy aromas of milk chocolate are sweet, oaky and confected. In the mouth, this Malbec is rich and smooth, but also lactic and creamy. Flavors of oak-driven vanilla are backed by ripe, syrupy berry flavors, ink and graphite. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

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ZaHa 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Candied berry and sweet oak are draped all over a ripe, rich nose. This is bright, fruity and cleanly made. Flavors of blueberry and cassis run sweet and oaky, while milk chocolate and residual berry fruit push the finish. The wine balances oakiness and sweetness. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $65

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TintoNegro 2012 Finca la Escuela Estate Grown Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 76. abv: 14% Price: $50

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Trivento 2010 Eolo Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Dark in color, then jammy on the nose, this oaky specimen has heavily extracted berry aromas. In the mouth, there’s a level of freshness offset by heavy fruit content. Flavors of berry and plum are chocolaty up front and finish with spice, pepper and

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Finca El Origen 2012 Reserva Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 78. Best

Valentin Bianchi 2011 Famiglia Bianchi Malbec (San Rafael). Dark berry and lemony oak lead the aromas on this barrel-driven Malbec. In the mouth, it’s resiny and creamy, while blackberry and woody flavors yield to café mocha. A resiny finish is loaded with overt oak character. Drink through 2018. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $19 Domaine Jean Bousquet 2012 Reserve Malbec (Tupungato). Dark fruit and rubbery aromas set up a full-bodied, easygoing palate with depth and mild acidity. This Malbec is pumped full of wild berry, plum and chocolate flavors, while oak, peppery spice and more chocolate work a balanced, healthy finish. Domaine Bousquet. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

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Juana de Sol 2011 Reserva Single Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Toasty, minerally notes accent berry fruit aromas. In the mouth, it is fresh, crisp and medium in weight. Flavors of black fruits and oak are the slightest bit forced and medicinal, while the finish is balanced. Metrowine Distribution. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

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Trapiche 2012 Oak Cask Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 78. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $10

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Cupcake 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Raspberry, cherry and plum aromas are fresh but a bit raw. Racy and clean on the palate, it has ripe, sweetleaning flavors of blackberry and cherry. A slightly oaky, resiny finish with a chocolate flavor is appropriate. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

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Domaine Jean Bousquet 2012 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery, spicy berry fruit aromas carry a note of salinity. The wine is boldly structured, with hard tannins. Roast plum, blackberry and spice flavors lean toward syrupy, while a generous finish delivers ending power. Domaine Jean Bousquet. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Price: $12

François Lurton 2012 Piedra Negra Alta Colección Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 78. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Los Vencejos 2009 Malbec (Uco Valley). Generic berry aromas combined with oak and bath soap scents set up a jammy, soft, chunky palate with baked berry, plum, loam and savory flavors. Licorice, baked berry and an overriding ripeness

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Espuela del Gaucho 2012 Reserve Limited Edition Malbec (Mendoza). Blackberry and cassis aromas rest on top of an oaky base that brings a whiff of graham cracker to the game. The palate runs more snappy, with raw acidity providing pulse to otherwise loamy flavors of baked berry and cherry. A toasty, woody element reasserts itself on the finish. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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Sottano 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Earthy berry aromas come with a touch of compost and rubber. This feels juicy, racy and slick, with

red plum and raspberry leading the flavor charge. A fresh, lightly herbal finish is the final act. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $16

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Valentin Bianchi 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Slightly scratchy plum and berry aromas blend in a touch of green herbs along with chocolaty notes. This feels solid and full. Flavors of cassis, raspberry, herbs and cured meat lead to a slightly medicinal finish, with peppery spice notes. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $13

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Acordeón 2011 Malbec (Tupungato). For full review see page 79. Best Buy. abv: 13.9% Price: $9

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Argento 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Minty, herbal, lightly stalky aromas of plum and cherry lead to a blocky-feeling palate with lactic flavors of resiny plum and vanilla. Creaminess on the finish creates an almost cloying feel, while berry fruit leftovers run sweet. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

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Conquista 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 79. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $9

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Conquista 2011 Oak Cask Malbec (Mendoza). Red-fruit aromas operate solo on the bouquet. This feels tight, crisp and fresh, with plum, berry and peppery spice flavors. A dry, slightly abrasive and scratchy finish deals juiciness and lasting red-fruit flavors. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

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Lamadrid 2009 Single Vineyard Gran Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). Stewy, baked aromas of raisin and prune boldly announce that this Malbec is ripe to the point of overripe. The palate is syrupy and soft; cooked, baked flavors of blackberry syrup finish sticky, stewy and slightly bitter. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

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Mascota 2011 La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Aromas of graphite, lavender, licorice and cocoa accent core scents of blackberry on this nicely balanced value Cabernet. The palate is ripe, well oaked and deep, while flavors of toast, chocolate, baking spices and fruitcake finish with good feel and character. PL360 Beverage Partners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

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Hubert Weber 2007 Cellar Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This aged Cabernet is mild, mellow and earthy on the nose, with aromas of tobacco and baked berry fruits. Acidity is

pronounced on the palate; after that there’s a mix of spice, cherry and cassis flavors. Loud acidity on the finish freshens things up while creating citric scour. Drink now. Maximus Vinum. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

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Trapiche 2011 Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Narrow berry aromas are straightforward but not complex. This is a smooth operator with round tannins, plenty of body and a mix of black fruits, licorice, herbs and spices on the flavor profile. Flavors turn more herbal on the finish, where oregano and thyme accent tastes of cassis and berry. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

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Finca Los Maza 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). On the plus side, this is a full-bodied, ripe Cab with smooth tannins and not much bite. On the other hand, it’s prune-driven and stewy on the nose, palate and finish, which disrupt overall balance. Total Wine & More. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $14

BONARDA

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El Enemigo 2011 Bonarda (Mendoza). Ripe, floral aromas of blackberry and minerals filter into a grapy, grabby palate. Flavors of iodine, licorice, black plum and cassis finish salty and leathery tasting, with a firm tannic grip and rubbery notes. This is short on refinement but generous in terms of body and fruit content. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

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Trapiche 2011 Broquel Bonarda (Mendoza). A full-bodied, dark and meaty wine, it has ripe blackberry and cassis aromas. While lush upfront, it’s more racy and lively in the mouth, where a streak of acidity keeps things moving along. Flavors of saline and earthy blackberry finish roasted, chunky and still a touch salty in flavor. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

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Ruca Malen 2011 Yauquen Bonarda (Mendoza). Latex, leather and asphalt aromas compete with berry aromas on what amounts to a hard, tough nose. Narrow in the mouth, with tomato-like acidity, this tastes woody and salty, with modest berry flavors. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $14

RED BLENDS

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Durigutti 2009 10 Años Edición Limitada (Mendoza). With an opaque color and huge aromas of graphite, blackberry, cassis and creamy oak, this epitomizes modern Argentinean wine. The palate on this Malbec-and-Cabernet-Franc-driven blend is weighty, relaxed and deep. Flavors of baked blackberry, cassis and plum come with herb, chocolate and spice accents. Look for additional oak and

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BUYINGGUIDE chocolate on the chewy but smooth finish. Drink through 2018. Southern Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $60

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El Enemigo 2010 Gran Enemigo (Mendoza). With huge amounts of graphite, toast, wood grain, blueberry and blackberry aromas, this Cabernet Franc-led blend (with Malbec and Petit Verdot) is solid as granite, with a layered structure. Flavors of blackberry, chocolate and herbs dance together, while the finish is long, dark, minty and chocolaty. Best from 2016 through 2022. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $90

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Durigutti 2009 Familia (Mendoza). Loamy, rich, baked aromas of blackberry and cassis sit on the precipice of jammy and raisiny. In the mouth, tartaric acid sticks out, creating a tolerable inbalance between raisiny fruit and pushy zest. Meanwhile, flavors of coconut, vanilla, mocha and baked black fruits are hedonistic and rich. Drink through 2018. This is 85% Malbec with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $58

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Salentein 2011 Numina Spirit Vineyard Gran Corte (Uco Valley). For full review see page 76. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $41

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SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Assemblage Reserva (Valle de Uco). Loamy, smooth, inviting aromas of creamy blackberry and plum pave the way to a plump, rich palate loaded with rubbery flavors of baked black fruits and licorice. A chunky, sweet-tasting finish is soft, with lush tannins. Less than 100 cases of this Malbec-led blend were made. Argentinean Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $60

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Sur de los Andes 2010 Premium Blend Single Vineyard (Luján de Cuyo). Intense mineral and berry aromas show class and touches of mint and resiny wood. This feels crisp, electric and drawing, while flavors of graphite, mint, raw oak, vanilla, plum and raspberry run onto a lightly herbal, medium-length finish. Drink this tightly wound, fresh young blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot now through 2020. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $28

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Cruz Alta 2010 Chairman’s Blend MalbecCabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Mendoza). Waves of berry aromas matched by oak-based vanilla and a hint of violet comprise the nose on this Malbec-led blend that smacks hard in the mouth with tannic bite and acidity. Flavors of wild berry, cherry and hard spices finish juicy and lively. Drink through 2018. Total Wine & More. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $31

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Hubert Weber 2007 Winemaker’s Selection (Mendoza). Smoky aromas of bacon mix

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with tobacco, graphite and earthy berry scents. Offering a big, tannic mouthfeel, the wine has flavors of fig, tobacco and mature berry fruits. The finish is long and firm. Drink through 2017. Maximus Vinum. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

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Proemio 2009 Barrel Selection (Mendoza). Plum and raspberry aromas are wiry in nature and “red” in character. The wine feels healthy and not overly heavy, with roasted, slightly herbal flavors of berry fruits and creamy oak. A spicy, lightly herbal finish ends this Malbec-Syrah-Merlot blend in solid fashion. Drink through 2015. Vitis Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

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TeHo 2011 Red Blend Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Licorice, cardamom, blueberry and cassis aromas are subtle but complementary. A firm, healthy feel isn’t particularly hard or tannic, while candied berry and sweet oak flavors lead to a long, smooth finish. This blend of 67% Malbec and 33% Cab Sauvignon is ripe, ready and exemplifies Mendoza’s penchant for big wines with balance. Only 150 cases made. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $95

ly been producing the variety for years, with excellent results. This 2012 is certainly their best since at least 2006. The wine, which is unoaked, is dry and brisk in acidity, with a tangy minerality. But it’s the ripe, pure lemongrass, peach and papaya flavors that really star. Only 780 cases were produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

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Galerie 2012 Equitem Sauvignon Blanc (Knights Valley). For full review see page 75. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

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Galerie 2012 Naissance Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page 75. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

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Easton 2012 Monarch Mine Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Sierra Foothills). Easton’s classic Sauvignon Blanc stands out year in and year out and this is no exception. Complex in texture and flavors of lime and tropical papaya, it’s marked by minerality and a pronounced crispness. It calls out to be served as an apéritif or to enjoy while cooking. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Luigi Bosca 2010 Gala 1 Malbec-Petit Verdot-Tannat (Mendoza). This Malbec-heavy blend opens with forest floor and leathery aromas. The palate is firm and solid, with plenty of tannic grip. Flavors of roasted, herbal berry fruits finish with a leathery quality and some green character. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $39

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CALIFORNIA

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ZaHa 2011 Red Blend Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Lactic aromas of creamy oak, latex and plastic come with a hint of mocha. Resilient on the palate, it has oaky, lactic flavors of black plum and cassis. A candied tasting, creamy finish is fresh and firm. The blend is 78% Malbec and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $65 Andeluna 2007 Pasionado Cuatro Cepas (Tupungato). Slightly heavy, overripe aromas of prune and dessicated berry lead to a wide, blocky palate that’s fairly oaky despite all the time this has spent in bottle. Flavors of loamy berry, resiny wood and baked black plum finish earthy but a touch flat. Drink this blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc now. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $60

SAUVIGNON BLANC

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Babcock 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Sta. Rita Hills). The Santa Rita Hills isn’t exactly known for Sauvignon Blanc, but Babcock has quiet-

Murrieta’s Well 2012 Los Tesoros Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley). Pretty in orange blossom and jasmine highs, this is a small-production, complex and textured Sauvignon Blanc that’s floral through and through. Lengthy on the finish, it’ll linger on the tongue alongside buttery shellfish or creamy cheeses. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 Del Dotto 2012 Cinghiale Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Fort Ross-Seaview). Your first sniff of this wine reveals gooseberry notes, an impression confirmed when you taste it. It’s bone dry, and that green, herbal flavor is relieved by riper lemons, limes and mangoes. It’s a severe wine, dry and acidic, but deserves credit for elegance and varietal purity. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $49

Dutton Estate 2012 Dutton Ranch Kylie’s Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). The wine is fermented in steel tanks and aged for a few months in neutral oak barrels. The result is dry, tart and complex, with gooseberry, green grass and white pepper flavors, enriched with hints of golden mangoes and vanilla. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $21

Envy 2012 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Calistoga). An enormously fruity wine, it’s impressive in Meyer lemons, limes, apricots, mangoes and vanilla, succulent and savory, and brightened by acidity. With almost the weight of an oak-aged Chardonnay, it shouldn’t be opened too cold. Pair it with everything from ham and sausages and broiled

chicken to arroz con pollo and Thai pork and peanut curry. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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LangeTwins 2012 Estate Grown Musqué Clone Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). For full review see page 77. abv: 13.2% Price: $15

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Gainey 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This unoaked wine is enormously ripe in lemon, lime, green grass, tropical fruit and vanilla flavors. It’s basically dry, although you can taste honey in the finish. Brilliant acidity gives it a keen, mouthwatering quality. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $14

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Murphy-Goode 2012 The Fumé Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). For full review see

page 77. abv: 13.5%

Price: $14

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Wasted Grape 2012 Inn Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Suisun Valley). Opening with rich aromas of vanilla and lemon meringue, this barrelfermented Sauvignon Blanc is delightfully crisp and light with a clear sense of lemony-lime and tropical fruit goodness. It finishes bright in melon and another hit of vanilla. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $17

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Envy 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Just a touch of oak on this wine gives a welcome smoky-sweet edge of vanilla and toast. The grapes bring rich, ripe Meyer lemon, lime, orange and peach flavors, with a hint of savory green gooseberries. This will be a good companion to slightly sweet Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

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Tines 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Good price for a Sauvignon Blanc this brisk and clean. It’s tart in acidity and dry, with rich lemon, lime, grapefruit, mango and vanilla flavors. It will partner well with Vietnamese or Thai foods that are spicy and a little sweet. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $17

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Hanna 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). With ammonia, green pea, gooseberry and pink grapefruit flavors, it defines a grapy, dry, acidic style. Tasted in January, the wine was still a little bubbly from the fermentation process. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

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Hannah Nicole Vineyards 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Contra Costa County). With a touch of apricot fuzz and fresh-cut grass, the wine is high in acidity and clean, bright and layered. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $26

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Peltier Station 2012 hy.brid Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). Crisp with a taste of New Zealand grass, this wine offers pear, lemon and a pinch of fig on the finish amid layers of acidity. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $10

CHARDONNAY

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Fess Parker 2012 Ashley’s Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 71. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $37

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Fess Parker 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see page 72. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $37

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Jarvis 2012 Finch Hollow Estate Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 72. abv: 14.8% Price: $115

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Fess Parker 2012 Sierra Madre Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Crisp acidity and a cool minerality, like liquid granite, give this wine elegance and complexity. It’s rich in tropical fruits, peaches, pears, buttercream and vanilla, with oaky notes of buttered toast and caramel. What a fancy wine to have with Chardonnay-friendly fare, like lobster, crab or scallops in cream sauce. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

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Flora Springs 2012 Flora’s Legacy Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A long-time producer of great Chardonnay, Flora Springs hits a new level with this reserve commemorative bottling. The wine is spectacularly rich in tropical fruits, green apples and limes, with elaborate buttered toast and vanilla flavors from new oak, and a wonderfully creamy, leesy complexity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Rosella’s Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see page 74. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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ZD 2012 Chardonnay (California). The statewide appellation reflects the fact that the grapes were sourced from Napa Carneros, Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara. That makes it a master of the art of blending. Meanwhile, the great 2012 vintage, which was successful throughout the state, is responsible for the wine’s balance. It’s rich in tropical fruit, green apple, peach and nectarine flavors, with oak bringing richer elements of buttered toast and vanilla bean. With brisk acidity, it’s a gorgeous, versatile Chardonnay to drink now, and the alcohol is a refreshingly low. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $37

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Del Dotto 2011 Family Reserve Cinghiale Vineyard Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). The

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BUYINGGUIDE triple digit price is not a typo. This Chard is rich, ripe, high in alcohol and oaky, in the manner of the most opulent California Chardonnays. It holds concentrated tropical fruit, honey, butterscotch, toasty oak and cream flavors. With good acidity, it is ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

wine until 2015 or 2016 in the cellar to let the parts integrate. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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MacPhail 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 76. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). There’s lots of everything in this Chard. It’s enormously ripe in tropical fruits, peaches and pineapples, as well as new French oak. Malolactic fermentation and lees aging add richer toast and cream notes. Good as the wine is, it lacks subtlety. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

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Dutton Estate 2012 Kyndall’s Reserve Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Lots of oak and lees on this Chardonnay, but is never feels overworked. The acidity is brisk, and fruit flavors are rich in apricots, mangoes, tangerines and pears. Don’t drink this delicious wine too cold, as it picks up nuances in the glass. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

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Fess Parker 2012 Lazy F Ranch Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Give this Chard a year in the cellar to let the oak integrate with everything else. Right now, it shows a woody sappiness that dominates. Under that is a fine wine, dry, acidic and ripe in pears, Meyer lemons, green apples and golden mangoes. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). It’s risky to suggest aging a California Chardonnay, but you’d do well to stash this away until sometime in 2015. Right now, the wine is all about brisk acidity, oak and fresh, ripe tropical fruit, orange and pear flavors. All those parts need time to come together. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

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Godspeed 2012 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Mount Veeder). Chardonnays from Mount Veeder are rare, but the mountain can be a good home for that variety. Godspeed’s 2012 is dry, brisk in acidity and enormously rich in tropical fruit, pear and apricot fruit flavors, enhanced with oak. Drink this Chard now with fancy fare, such as wild mushroom risotto, ahi tuna tartare and chicken lasagna. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Parmalee-Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). The vineyard lies in that fuzzy area that also qualifies for a Carneros or Sonoma Valley appellation. The wine is ripe and forward in tangerine, apricot, mango and lime fruit, with fine acidity and a hit of buttery, toasty oak. It defines the ripe, opulent California coastal style of Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $40

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Sierra Mar Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). There’s a lot of oak on this Chardonnay, to judge by the buttered toast and butterscotch richness. Underneath all that is a wine ripe in tropical fruits and green apples, brightened by excellent, mouthwatering acidity. The oak stands out now, but give the

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Chalone 2012 Gavilan Chardonnay (Chalone). This is sort of a second wine from Chalone, but it’s a very good one. The grapes were grown in the Gavilan Mountains, where Chalone is located. It shows plenty of acidity, and the apricot, orange, mango and honey flavors are enhanced with a stony minerality that create elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

Grgich Hills 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This Chardonnay, which comes from the winery’s American Canyon and Carneros vineyards, shows modest alcohol levels. Oak brings toastiness, while malolactic fermentation was avoided to preserve acidity. Flavors veer towards lemon, lime and grapefruit, with riper note of mangoes. It’s a dry, elegant wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

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HandCraft 2012 Artisan Collection Chardonnay (California). For full review see page 78. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

MacPhail 2011 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Flashy enough, with ripe pineapple, green apple and tropical fruit flavors liberally enhanced with toasty new oak. But as tasty as it is, the wine lacks that extra something to lift it above the ordinary. It will appeal to fans of rich, oaky Chards. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $45 Poseidon 2012 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Carneros). This Chardonnay carefully straddles its price point. It offers plenty of rich, flamboyant tropical fruit, pear and oak flavors, with brisk acidity and a long, spicy finish, without offering much complexity. It’s ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

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Romililly 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The buttered toast and vanilla bean flavors of oak barrels dominate this Chardonnay. Underneath that is a good wine, crisp in acidity and ripe in lime, mango and apricot fruit flavors. It’s ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $32

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Bouchaine 2011 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). This is a fairly generic coastal Chardonnay. It’s rich in honeyed oak and balanced with acidity, while the flavors are enormously ripe in peaches, pears, oranges and golden mangoes. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Westerly 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Buttered toast, vanilla, orange, mango, apricot, lime and honey flavors mark this Chardonnay. The richness is partially balanced by vibrant acidity, but it’s still almost sweet. Drink it now with rich shellfish, mushroom risotto or a perfect grilled ham and cheese sandwich. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

Cameron Hughes 2012 Lot 427 Chardonnay (Carneros). Lots of rich flavors in this affordably priced Chard. It brims with golden mango, orange jam, buttercream, butterscotch, glazed donut and caramel flavors, finished with zesty acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

Andretti 2012 Montona Reserve Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Oaky flavors of buttered toast and vanilla bean dominate this Chardonnay. It’s also ripe in mango, pear, apricot and orange flavors allied with acidity. But the overall quality is average. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $50 Ca’ Momi 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Napa Valley). The wine offers a fantastic array of butterscotch, orange, pineapple, peach and vanilla bean flavors, brightened with vital acidity. But as rich as the wine tastes, it lacks a certain distinction. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 The Calling 2010 Jewell Vineyard Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). New French oak sticks out on this Chardonnay, making the co-stars buttered toast and caramel. Underneath the wine is dry and brisk in acidity, with lime and mango fruit flavors. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $50

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Del Dotto 2011 Cinghiale Vineyard Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Buttered toast and butterscotch flavors rule in this Chardonnay. The grapes bring ripe, pure flavors of mangoes, pineapples and tangerines. It’s delicious, if a bit obvious in its appeals. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $85

WHITE BLENDS

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Adelaida 2012 Version Reserve (Paso Robles). The blend is Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Picpoul Blanc, grown at a high altitude on Paso Robles’s west side. The wine is dense and

concentrated in apricots, oranges and mangoes, balanced with acidity and sweet oak. With a dry finish, it’s a complex wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Adelaida 2012 Version (Paso Robles). The blend is Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne. Dry and crisp in acidity, the wine offers smoky oak framing rich, ripe apricot, tangerine, mango and lime flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

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Vinum 2012 Chenin Blanc-Viognier (Clarksburg). Crisp and refreshing, this blend of 85% Chenin Blanc and 15% Viognier is high in acidity with a creamy midpalate. Guava is most notable flavor, followed by kiwi and honey. Oysters would be a good call. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

PINOT NOIR

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Brassfield 2012 Serenity (High Valley). David Ramey is the consulting winemaker for this wine, a blend of 46% Pinot Grigio, 33% Sauvignon Blanc and 21% Gewürztraminer. Smooth and crisp, the Sauvignon Blanc’s qualities are prominent, the wine a tempting mix of apricot, honey and lemon meringue. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $15

Montemaggiore 2012 3 Divas (Russian River Valley). This blend of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne is dry and crisp in acidity and shows ripe, complex flavors of peaches, limes and oranges. But the California fruit is balanced by minerality and dried herbs. Drink it now, but not too cold. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

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Novy 2012 Four Mile Creek (North Coast). A great value white, rich and thick in baked apple, mouth-filling and juicy. With aspects of Chardonnay and Viognier, the wine is textured, balanced and long-lasting on the finish. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $13

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Fenestra NV True White Lot 1 (California). From Livermore-based Fenestra, this blend includes Verdelho, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sémillon and Pinot Gris, swirling them into a medium-boded, balanced wine resplendent in peach and pear. With some heft on the finish, it ends satisfyingly clean. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

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Horse & Plow 2012 Farmstead White (North Coast). This wine blends 40% Pinot Blanc, 32% Pinot Gris and 28% Riesling to nice effect, producing a crisp, balanced wine soft in lemon and pear notes. With toned acidity, it’s a long-lasting quaff ready for shellfish or oysters plucked right out of the bay. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Gnarly Head 2012 Authentic (California). This blend of undisclosed varieties is a fine wine for drinking with a huge array of foods. It’s brisk in acidity and forward in lemonade, peach, pear and orange flavors that linger into a long, rich finish. The wine will pair especially well with Thai, Vietnamese and Cambodian fare. —S.H. abv: 11.5% Price: $12

Chanamé 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A tiny-production Pinot by a new producer, it makes a stunning debut. Owners James Hahn and Mila Chanamé are childhood friends with longtime Anderson Valley vineyard manager Norman Kobler and the shared roots have clearly put them in sync. The wine is perfumey in lilac and violet with a lightly textured and seductive mouthfeel that’s exotic in just-ripe cherry and raspberry. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 Lachini 2011 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 72. abv: 13.9% Price: $50

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 72. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

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Bucher 2012 Three Sixty Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The vineyard, founded in 1997, is familiar to Pinot lovers through its bottlings from Williams Selyem. Located in the heart of the valley’s Middle Reach, its wines are softer, riper and fullerbodied than those from the cooler south. With this bottling, the Bucher family has produced an ageworthy wine that amply displays the vineyard’s terroir. The raspberry and cherry fruits are wrapped into firm tannins, with new French oak bringing sweeter notes of toast and caramel. Drink 2018 through at least 2024. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

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Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Devil’s Gulch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Marin County). From one of Marin’s coolest and best-farmed vineyard sites, this offering is intoxicatingly pretty in violets and herbs, and fleshy in the mouth with gorgeous texture. Layered, structured and dancing in acidity, this is a Marin Pinot not to miss. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $58

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Richly textured and sumptuous, this Pinot has cherry, red licorice, cola, pepper and sandalwood flavors that go on into a long, spicy finish. The tannins are silky and integrated. The wine displays the fruit forwardness of the vintage, as well as the careful viticulture of the vineyard. Lovely to drink now with steak, and it will reward cellaring until 2020 to 2022. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Rosella’s is in some respects the quintessential Santa Lucia Highlands vineyard. It always shows ripe, concentrated raspberry and licorice fruit, with brooding, earthy notes of mushrooms, as well as thick tannins and bright acidity. Loring’s 2012 is a balanced, complex wine that brings hints of blueberries. It’s beautiful now, and will age well until at least 2020. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $50

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MacPhail 2011 Sundawg Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). For full review see page 73. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

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Del Dotto 2011 Cinghiale Vineyard Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). The vineyard produces everything from Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc to Chardonnay and Syrah for the winery, with generally good results. This Pinot shows the exotic notes of wildland herbs and pine that so often show up in Fort Ross-Seaview Pinots. But it’s also rich in cherries, and the acidity is just about perfect. With a delicacy of mouthfeel, it’s a fine example of coastal Pinot Noir, but it needs time. Give it until 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $75

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Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 74. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Fulcrum 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This is Londer Vineyard fruit though the vineyard is no longer a designation of its own. Still, like vintages past, Fulcrum has worked its magic with the long-coveted spot, crafting an herbal, savory Pinot that’s mouth-filling in blueberry fruit. Voluptuously soft, this is a great wine for the table, perhaps paired with a pork roast dripping in mushrooms. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $54

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Gainey 2012 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This Pinot Noir is silky smooth, with a delicate, airy texture. Yet the flavors are full-throttle, showing excitingly ripe cherries and persimmons, kissed with toasty oak, and made bright with vibrant acidity. Drink now through 2017. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Stash this one in the cellar unil 2019 or 2020. Tasted in January 2014, it’s tannic, tart in acidity and enormously rich in red cherry jam, pomegranate and persimmon fruit flavors, enriched with sweet, smoky oak. A real beauty from this well-respected vineyard. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Graham Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). The vineyard was planted in 2002 and the fruit shows young exuberance, to judge by the purity of raspberry, strawberry and persimmon fruit, accented with oak. The excellent 2012 vintage brings a superb balance of acidity, and while there’s some heat from alcohol, it’s nothing that a superb steak can’t handle. Give the wine until 2020 to let all the parts integrate and mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $50 Loring Wine Company 2012 Keefer Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). You’ll find fantastically ripe black and red cherry, cola, licorice, tobacco and spice flavors in this dry, medium-bodied Pinot. But it’s not really drinkable now because the tannins are too tough. Grown in one of the region’s most celebrated vineyards, it needs until 2019 or 2020 to begin its aging curve. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $50

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MacPhail 2011 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 74. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

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MacPhail 2011 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 74. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.1% Price: $49

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MacPhail 2011 Rita’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 74. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $49

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MacPhail 2011 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 74. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.1% Price: $49

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Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard Earthquake Block Unfiltered Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 74. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $52

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Bucher 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Since planting in 1997, Bucher Vineyard has been a renowned source of Pinot Noir for exceptional local wineries. Now the Bucher family is making their own wine, with good results. The wine is dry, fresh and keen in acidity, and has considerable weight, with ripe, forward raspberry, cherry, bacon, sautéed wild mushroom and exotic spice flavors. However, it’s still too young. Begin to enjoy it around 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Krutz 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The vineyard is famous for producing ripe, luscious Pinots stuffed with massive fruit. Many wineries have dipped into

it over the years. Krutz’s rendition is dry, balanced and full-bodied, with relatively high alcohol framing raspberry, cherry, cola, red plum, exotic spice and sandalwood flavors. It should age well through 2020–2022. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Aubaine Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). The vineyard is near if not entirely within the Arroyo Grande Valley appellation, and it shows that region’s tannins, acidity and ripe, long hangtime flavors. The balanced 2012 vintage has given it tremendously ripe cherry, raspberry, red currant and cola flavors, yet the wine retains an exciting sense of control and balance. Give it until 2018–2019 in the cellar to gain traction. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $50

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The raspberries, strawberries and cherries of this Pinot are so rich and ripe, it’s easy to like it now, especially given the silky smooth mouthfeel. But such are the tannins that the wine should develop additional bottle complexity through 2019–2020, although it doesn’t have the stuffing to go beyond that. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

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Manzoni 2011 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A rich barrel selection, this is a fine Pinot Noir that’s silky, brisk in acidity, dry and deeply flavored in raspberries, cherries and Dr. Pepper cola. Give it at least until 2018 in the cellar. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $60

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Testarossa 2012 Zinnia Grandiflora Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This new line from the well-regarded Testarossa Winery is a barrel selection emphasizing richness. The wine floods the mouth with succulent raspberries and cherries, with tarter notes of cranberries and red licorice. Earthiness provides extra complexity, and it could age well through 2020. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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Cameron Hughes 2012 Lot 505 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 73. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Rich in raspberries and strawberries, it couldn’t be any riper. Fortunately the fruit is nicely balanced by acidity, fuzzy tannins and a mushroomy earthiness that’s simply delectable. Drink this lovely wine through 2018. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

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Rodney Strong 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 77. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

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Waxwing 2012 Spring Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The fruit is gigantic on this rich, full-bodied and expressive young Pinot Noir. It discloses an explosion of raspberries and cherries, along with zesty acidity and a jacket of smoky oak. The wine is delicious to drink now with Pinot-friendly fare, such as grilled salmon or lamb. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $39

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Bouchaine 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This gentle Pinot is just beginning to lose its fresh strawberry, cherry and cranberry fruit. As it dries out, mushrooms emerge, giving a wild earthiness. Carneros acidity remains, however, making the wine tart. It will be a great partner for lamb. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

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De Loach 2011 Marin Pinot Noir (Marin County). A young, structured Pinot Noir exuding tart red cherry and pomegranate, clearly grown in a cool climate in a cool year with an undertone of brushy herbes de Provence. The finish continues the theme of tartness and acidity, a willing partner for something unexpected like oysters or baconwrapped dates. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $35

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HandCraft 2012 Artisan Collection Pinot Noir (California). For full review see page 78. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Misterra Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). J has taken the unusual step of blending Pinot Noir with Pinot Meunier, which is not so strange, but also with Pinotage, which is practically unheard of. The addition of the latter certainly makes the wine darker, heavier and more tannic than it ordinarily would be. It also brings an earthiness to Pinot’s vibrant cherries. It’s an oddball, but a charming one to drink with rich winter stews. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This Pinot shows the early promise of the exciting 2012 vintage. While it’s just a basic appellation wine, it’s rich in raspberries, cherries, blueberries and persimmons, with the fruit nicely balanced by crisp acidity. Enjoy this ripe wine now through 2016. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $32

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MacPhail 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The wine is a blend of eight vineyards located throughout the vast appellation, while the constituent clones include both newer Dijon versions and older California selections. The wine is designed as a representative sampling of Sonoma Pinot Noir, and it’s quite successful. Fruitier and more direct than MacPhail’s single-vineyard bot-

tlings, its raspberry and cherry flavors make it drinkable now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Chef’s Coat 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Lots of complexity in this dry, smooth Pinot Noir. It has ripe, bright cherry and persimmon flavors, with intriguingly earthy notes of mushrooms and dried woodland herbs. Drink now–2018. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

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Lachini 2010 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The wine shows the delicacy, dryness and crisp acidity of its far coastal origins. The fruit is nice and ripe in raspberries and cherries, with the vanilla bean and smoke of oak barrel aging. Rusticity in the texture will limit the wine’s ageability. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

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Loring Wine Company 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Succulent pomegranate, persimmon and raspberry flavors make this wine an instant delight. The richness is brightened by tart acidity, while oak brings just the right touch of buttered cinnamon toast. A lovely Pinot Noir for drinking now with upscale fare. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

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MacPhail 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This Pinot has a mixture of oak and earthy pastures going on, and is light in color and texture. Red cherry and blueberry intermingle in a reductive way, with a savory herbal quality most prominent on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

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Poseidon 2012 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Carneros). Dry and medium-bodied, this Pinot has nice raspberry, cherry and persimmon flavors, as well as brisk acidity. Toasted oak shows up as smoky, brown butter sauce. The earthiness suggests pairing with a rich risotto of butternut squash or wild mushrooms. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

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Waxwing 2012 Lester Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). The wine is so fresh and candied in fruit, it really needs to be aged for a brief time. Tasted in January 2014, it’s all about ripe, primary flavors of raspberries and cherries. But it has some interesting depths of mushrooms and spices. The next 12–15 months will begin to allow all the parts to mellow and evolve. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $39

SYRAH

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Drew 2011 Perli Vineyard Syrah (Mendocino Ridge). Drew is single-handedly making a case for the tiny Mendocino Ridge appellation and its ability to nurture intense Syrah with this per-

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BUYINGGUIDE fumed wine explosive in black pepper and cherry. Its fine, softly-hewed tannins keep things fresh and sinewy. Complex and dancing in acidity, this Syrah cries out for charcuterie, especially artisan salami, its perfect match in pepper. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $40

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Drew 2011 Valenti Vineyard Syrah (Mendocino Ridge). Drew has crafted something special here, a light-in-alcohol wine that manages to pack a punch with personality and give a proper nod to the Northern Rhône. Woodsy and herbal the Syrah is intensely aromatic in wild strawberries and blackberries, round and long-lingering, while offering subtle floral and gamey notes on the palate. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $40

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Stark 2011 Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah (Mendocino County). A bright, fresh Syrah delicious in restrained blackberry and blueberry fruit, it has a luscious mouthfeel, plenty of acidity and an undercurrent of wild herb. Stark managed to do good things with many varieties in 2011. This wine is a standout, ready to pair with something gamey dribbled in black pepper sauce. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

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Kale 2010 Alder Springs Vineyard Spirit Rock Syrah (Mendocino County). Lush in dark fruit, notably blueberry and blackberry, this is a soft, mellow, concentrated Syrah with a hint of forest floor and white pepper. With 4% Viognier blended in, it’s long on the finish, with acidity able to support years of aging. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Krutz 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah (Napa Valley). Krutz is developing a consistent reputation for their Stagecoach Syrahs. The vineyard sprawls from Atlas Peak into a non-appellated part of Napa Valley, in the Vaca Mountains, and the wine always shows a dark color, strong tannins and massively extracted blackberry and cassis fruit. This 2010, like its predecessors, is ageable. Give it until 2020 to mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

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Prospect 772 2011 The Instigator Syrah (California). Black as night and leathery, this is a generously savory, 100% Syrah that’s well put together in structured tannins and chewy texture. Let it breathe and the range of smoked meats it’ll go with are endless, matching the similar taste of grilled, gamey meat in the wine. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $36

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Kale 2009 Alder Springs Vineyard Spirit Rock Syrah (Mendocino County). Voluptuous and savory, this Syrah is blended with 10% Viognier and the aromatics benefit as a result, a minerally mix of floral raspberry and vanilla. Earthy and leathery on the palate, it shows a taste of baked

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plum on the finish, as well as tobacco, a nice balance between Syrah’s darker and brighter sides. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

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Montemaggiore 2010 Paolo’s Vineyard Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). Perfect ripneness has given this 100% Syrah the most savory blackberry, cherry, mocha and red licorice flavors, with hints of grilled bacon and black pepper. Its tannins are smooth and complex, while a burst of juicy acidity helps the wine finish clean. Pair this versatile wine with everything from lamb and steak to salmon and cheese. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

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Montemaggiore 2010 Syrafina Syrah-Viognier (Dry Creek Valley). You can really taste the 3% of Viognier in this estate-grown Syrah. It’s like a squeeze of lime juice, giving the blackberry, blueberry and mocha flavors a zingy, mouthwatering tang. The alcohol’s a little high, but you’ll hardly notice it with rich beef and lamb dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $42

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Peter Cellars 2010 Syrah (Sonoma Valley). For full review see page 77. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.6% Price: $29

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Waxwing 2012 Lester Family Vineyard Syrah (Santa Cruz Mountains). While this singlevineyard Syrah is too soft to age out the tannins, it is nonetheless a fancy wine for drinking now with Syrah-friendly fare such as game. The wine is dry, full-bodied and tannic, and the blackberry fruit has strong notes of crushed white and black pepper and charred meat. The alcohol is moderate, and the price is good for the quality. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $32

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Kessler-Haak 2011 Lafond Vineyard Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). You might want to stash this Syrah away for a year or so to let it mellow. Right out of the bottle, it’s tannic and fresh in red berry and stone fruit jam. Cool-climate complexities of pepper and grilled bacon enhance the pleasure. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $32

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Waxwing 2012 Flocchini Vineyard Syrah (Sonoma Coast). Dry and tannic, this Syrah has the rich, complex flavors associated with coolclimate regions. Black pepper and blackberries star, with complicating notes of roasted meats, like the sweet charred fat on a great steak. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $32

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Prospect 772 2011 The Brawler Syrah (Sierra Foothills). Made with a majority of Syrah and 4% Viognier, the Brawler is moody, dark, smoky, a mouthful of earthy tobacco and leather. Enjoy with Port or an after-dinner pipe, old-school. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $36

Bota Box 2012 Shiraz (California). For full review see page 79. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $23/3 L

Rock Wren 2009 Syrah (Solano County Green Valley). Dry in meaty tannins, this is a hardbound Syrah, all leather, not so much lace. Grown on a former cherry orchard in Solano County it shows its warm-weather roots, structured in a brawny way with a long, tobacco-like finish. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $25

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Adelaida 2011 Anna’s Estate Vineyard Syrah (Paso Robles). This 100% Syrah is rich and ripe in blackberry jam and new oak flavors. It’s dry, with a fruity sweetness, and the tannins are strong but yielding. High alcohol gives it a hot feeling. Barbecue is your best bet. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $32

MOURVÈDRE

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Cinnabar 2011 Sandy Lane Vineyard Mourvèdre (Contra Costa County). A pure Mourvèdre that’s earthy in wood, cinnamon spice and black cherry, the Sandy Lane Vineyard is an outpost of 100-year-old vines in sandy soils. Velvety and fullbodied, the wine is robust and rich, a fine one for aging until 2017–2021 and then pairing with wild boar sausages in mushroom ragout. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $40

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Andis 2011 Mourvèdre (Amador County). This blend of 80% Mourvèdre with 20% Syrah is aged in concrete egg. It offers soft, light layers of blackberry and currant, a tiny suggestion of cinnamon and a streak of peppery spice. Andis remains a fine producer of many varieties, Rhône and otherwise, one always worth seeking. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

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La Clarine Farm 2012 Cedarville Mourvèdre (Sierra Foothills). Hank Beckmeyer’s wines continue to confound. This one is young, still evolving and hard to completely decipher. First impressions include smooth layers of earthy mushroom and raspberry-cherry struggling for dominance. Light in texture and weight, while high in acidity, the wine finishes on a kirsch-like sour cherry note. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $26

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Miraflores 2012 Estate Mourvèdre (El Dorado). This 100% Mourvèdre is strong in cherry liqueur flavor, peppery spice and smooth tannins. It carries a weighty heftiness through the midpalate before finishing clean in smoke and tobacco. Young, give it a chance to breathe before serving. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $28

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Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Mourvèdre (Santa Clara Valley). A light wine with a hit of oak midpalate, this offers bright red cherry

and black currant fruit with a suggestion of thyme and toffee on the finish. Smooth to drink, it’s a fine choice for red-meat dishes like beef lasagne. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $28

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David Girard 2010 Estate Vineyard Mourvèdre (El Dorado). Oaky and earthy, this estate Mourvèdre is on the savory side of things, ripe in stewed plums, tobacco and black pepper, linear and soft. Barrel-aged for a year in French oak, 20% of it new, the wine’s oak imprint should continue to mellow with time. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $34

WASHINGTON CHARDONNAY

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Ashan 2012 Kestrel Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). For full review see page 71. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

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Ashan 2012 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Gorge). With the Wente clone from the original 1973 plantings at this vineyard, it’s a moderately aromatic, nuanced wine with candy corn, summer squash, lemon butter, mineral and spices. The palate is textured and rich yet restrained with a vein of lemony acidity that runs from head to tail with a lingering finish. Walks the balance beam exceptionally well. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $45

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Ashan 2012 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Conner Lee Chardonnays have become almost cultish among Washington winemakers, and this is another good one to add to the list. Tight, toasty and rich with flavors from barrel fermentation, it’s a riot of caramel, buttered apple, Asian pear and brioche, yet retains remarkable acidity despite alcohol topping 15%. If you like your Chardonnays full-blown and roasty toasty, this one’s for you. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $45

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DaMa 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 75. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $21

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DaMa 2011 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Sagemoor and Conner Lee grapes go into this soft, plush, totally drinkable Chardonnay. Pretty fruit flavors of banana, apple and pear mingle seamlessly, and the wine has both balance and texture to spare. Drink it now for its poise and freshness. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $23

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Gordon Estate 2013 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 76. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.7% Price: $17

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BUYINGGUIDE

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Helix by Reininger 2012 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This all-stainless-steel-fermented Chardonnay is loaded with plush fruit flavors of apple and pear, balanced with fresh and refreshing acidity. Flavors of pineapple and citrus thread on through it, with a lick of butter in the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $21

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Milbrandt 2012 The Estates Chardonnay (Ancient Lakes). A surprisingly ripe wine from this generally cool vineyard, it shows notes of toast, buttery spice, vanilla and tropical fruit. It’s medium-plus bodied, creamy in feel with a tart finish. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

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Columbia 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Fresh and aromatic, this is the first vintage for new Columbia winemaker Sean Hails. The creative blend includes 7% Sémillon and 3% Chenin Blanc, and the wine was fermented in stainless steel—no oak or oak treatments needed. It covers the palate with flavors of apple and pear, moving into hints of tropical. Clean and refreshing all the way through. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

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Canoe Ridge 2012 The Expedition Canoe Ridge Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills). This 2012 offering—100% Chardonnay that’s 40% aged in American, French, and Hungarian oak—has notes of tangerine, pear, and petroleum jelly. The stone fruit flavors are sweet and rich, occasionally leaning toward the tropical. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

VIOGNIER

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Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2012 Viognier (Washington). Generous, sweetly perfumed aromas of melon and lemon oil lead into a wine with precision and penetration. Spicy, candied ginger complements the citrus and tropical fruit, and barrel fermentation gives it a gently buttery mouthfeel. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

It’s front-loaded, fruit-driven, and drinking at its prime. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $33

vory flavors as they dance and tussle toward a long, graceful finish. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $27

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Milbrandt 2012 The Estates Viognier (Wahluke Slope). Though aged in just 20% new French oak, the wood still seems out front on this otherwise enjoyable wine that brings prominent notes of vanilla along with pear and peach. It’s medium bodied in feel and avoids seeming oily or overblown, with a tart, citrusy finish. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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SAUVIGNON BLANC

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14 Hands 2012 The Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Horse Heaven Hills). This reserve-designated wine aromatically calls out to New Zealand as much as Washington with its notes of gooseberry, asparagus and passion fruit. Considering the aromatic intensity, it’s surprisingly sleek yet still broad in style with a lower acid profile like many of the Washington whites from this vintage. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Eleven 2012 La Donella Sauvignon Blanc (Washington). Sourced entirely from the Artz vineyard, this Sauvignon Blanc is quite fruity, concentrated, slightly sweet, and drinking optimally. Flavors of melon and citrus carry on through a lush, well-rounded finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

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RIESLING

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DaMa 2012 Viognier (Walla Walla Valley). Sharply-defined flavors highlighted with citrus skin and rind introduce this wine. It’s loaded with gin-like botanicals, lemon oil and orange peel, with high-toned assertiveness through the finish. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $25

Helix by Reininger 2012 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Viognier (Columbia Valley). This limited-production Viognier reflects the ripeness of the 2012 vintage. Immediately appealing, it coats the tongue with thick, peachy/tropical fruit flavors. A hint of saline cracker comes through as well.

Naches Heights 2012 Guinevere Naches Heights Vineyard Gewürztraminer (Naches Heights). Although this is 100% Gewürz and aged in stainless steel, the aromas of lychee, citrus rind and spice seem light for the variety while the palate’s tart acidity lends a pleasing sense of vibrancy to this off-dry wine. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

Gamache Vintners 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Made from vines nearly 30 years old, this ultra-ripe Sauvignon Blanc was oak-aged in neutral barrels, and comes across with Chardonnay-like richness. It’s viscous, rich to the point of liquorous—not for all palates, but done well in its way. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

Analemma 2012 Oak Ridge Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge). An arresting, vibrantly aromatic wine with notes of rose petal, lychee, pink grapefruit and savory spices. It tingles the palate with just off-dry fruit flavors and brings a weighty, textured feel without ever seeming overburdened. A persistent, spice-filled finish that carries far into the distance serves as the capstone. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $27

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Pacific Rim 2012 Gewürztraminer (Columbia Valley). Soft and quite floral, this is textbook Gewürztraminer. The spice of the grape hits you like a warm breeze, bringing pretty lychee, melon and more floral flavors with it. Charming and rather deeply colored, this is pure Gewürztraminer but one quarter of the blend was done in the style of an orange wine. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $10

Analemma 2012 Atavus Vineyard Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge). More aromatically restrained than its Oak Ridge Vineyard counterpart, the Atavus Vineyard wine brings notes of rose petal, herbs, lees and spice. The palate is textured with tremendous energy and tension to the fruit and sa-

Pacific Rim 2012 Dry Riesling (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 78. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

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Pacific Rim 2012 Sweet Riesling (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 78. Best

Buy. abv: 8.5%

Price: $10

Milbrandt 2012 The Estates Ancient Lakes Riesling (Ancient Lakes). An intriguing wine with notes of lime leaf, green apple and wet slate. It drinks dry with tart, racy acidity and abundant mineral notes. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

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Pacific Rim 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 78. Best Buy. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

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Radius 2012 Riesling (Washington). An aromatic wine with notes of ripe nectarine, honey and jasmine. It’s medium sweet with an assortment of dried apricot flavors that display a pleasing sense of balance that continues through the lingering finish. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 10.7% Price: $11

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Mercer Canyons 2012 Riesling (Yakima Valley). This is a thick, almost syrupy Riesling, packed with fruit flavors of peaches and apricots. It’s tilting toward off dry, with residual sugar at 15 g/L, drinking well though somewhat one-dimensional. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $13

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Naches Heights 2012 Naches Heights Vineyard Riesling (Naches Heights). Displays a cooler climate profile with notes of lime leaf, qui-

nine, white peach and flowers. The palate drinks off dry, with well balanced acidity and a stone-fruitfilled finish. —S.S. abv: NA Price: $14

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Pacific Rim 2012 Wallula Vineyard Biodynamic Riesling (Horse Heaven Hills). Starting off quite reductive, it opens to reveal notes of lime leaf, mineral and freshly peeled tangerine. The palate drinks dry but doesn’t have the acid to entirely stand it up. —S.S. abv: 12.9% Price: $24

OTHER WHITE WINES

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Reininger 2012 Birch Creek Vineyard Sémillon (Walla Walla Valley). A wine this good makes you wish there were a lot more of it. Pure Sémillon from a single vineyard, fermented in stainless steel, it opens with lovely fragrances of linalool and citrus pith, softens up in the mouth, and brings grapefruit and a hint of wet stone. It has the power of Chardonnay with more complexity than most unoaked versions of that grape. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $36

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Rôtie Cellars 2012 Northern White Marsanne (Washington). This is 100% Marsanne, a racy, textural wine with cool, fresh, crisp flavors of cucumber, white melon and lemon pith. The framing acidity is tangy without turning at all sour, and there’s a generous foundation of wet stone. The wine is an immaculate expression of elegance and finesse. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

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Amavi Cellars 2012 Sémillon (Walla Walla Valley). Crystal clear, clean and fresh, this lovely wine mixes ripe citrus, tangerine and melon fruits, with a touch of barrel toast. It’s full-bodied and rich without being thick or tiring in any way; simply delicious. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $21

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Syncline 2012 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc (Yakima Valley). Syncline’s James Mantone has hit the bull’s-eye once again with this single vineyard, 100% varietal Grenache Blanc. It’s rich without being thick, loaded with luscious Asian pear and apple, hints of white peach and a splash of grapefruit. The texture and acidity add to the liveliness in the mouth, and keep the wine fresh through a long and satisfying finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

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Pacific Rim 2012 Chenin Blanc (Columbia Valley). Along with just a handful of others, this is a trend-setting Chenin, sourced from old vines and made in significant case quantities. The grapes are from a 1968 vineyard planted at Hahn Hill. It’s a round and floral Chenin Blanc that feels downright silky on the tongue. Classic flower and tree fruit flavors compound, with a lick of butterscotch as the wine rolls through the finish. There is

just a touch—10 g/L—of residual sugar. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

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Syncline 2012 Boushey Vineyard Picpoul (Yakima Valley). This tart, slightly waxy white wine has impressive weight and grip despite its sharp acidity. Lemons and apples are the fruit flavors here, and it’s a good choice for any kind of shellfish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

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Syncline 2012 Underwood Mountain Vineyard Grüner Veltliner (Columbia Gorge). One of the few varietal bottlings produced in the state, this concrete-fermented wine brings notes of straw, wet stone, herbs and citrus zest. It’s tart and mouthwatering with lemony acidity and a textured feel, screaming out for shellfish to be served alongside it. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $20

MERLOT

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Barrister 2011 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page 72. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

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Market Vineyards 2010 Alpha Merlot (Red Mountain). Alpha is a new offering from Market Vineyards, and boosts the flavor meter past the winery’s excellent, value-priced Benchmark Merlot. Tightly-structured and showing a barrel-heavy mix of dark, toasted flavors, this complex effort brings lead pencil, clove, charred meat and black fruits into play. Enjoy it with your thick grilled steak, or tuck it away until 2020–2022. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

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Gamache Vintners 2010 Estate Merlot (Columbia Valley). Consulting winemaker Charlie Hoppes has imprinted his benchmark style on Gamache fruit. This is a big, ripe, blocky but powerful wine—all Merlot as only Washington State can grow it. The ripe cassis fruit is enveloped in a mix of French and American oak, half new, yielding strong flavors of smoke, tobacco and mocha. A blockbuster style, ready to drink right now. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

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Market Vineyards 2010 Benchmark Merlot (Columbia Valley). An outstanding value, the newest Benchmark Merlot was sourced equally from Hightower (Red Mountain) and Weinbau (Wahluke Slope) vineyards. It offers plenty of rich barrel flavors, wrapped in a dark, toasty, smoky wine with fruit ripe enough to handle all the oak. Black cherry, cassis and dark chocolate coat the palate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

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Pepper Bridge 2011 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Here is a young, tight, firm Merlot,

WINEMAG.COM | 113

BUYINGGUIDE blended with 16% Cabernet Franc and 8% Malbec. Those two grapes pull it even tighter, framing the black cherry fruit with sleek, polished tannins. The acidity and natural minerality suggest that a bit more bottle age will add extra depth and flesh. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

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Mercer Estates 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). In a change of style, this is now 100% varietal, and much the better for it. Tart and juicy, with pure fruit flavors of cranberry and raspberry, it pushes deep into the palate and on through a clean, racy finish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

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Reininger 2010 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This excellent Merlot speaks to many of Reininger’s proven strengths. It’s quite smooth and supple, loaded with ripe plum and cherry fruit, seamless and chocolaty. The balance is right on, the length and texture captivating. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $39

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Burnt Bridge 2011 Les Collines Vineyard Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This captures the spicy vitality of Les Collines Merlot, with pretty cherry and plum fruit set against a smattering of new oak toast. It’s a clean, well-defined wine that continues into a tasty finish with highlights of roasted walnuts and clove. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $32

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Columbia 2012 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Merlot is usually the best wine in any budget lineup of Washington reds, and this excellent entry from the new regime (Gallo) at Columbia is no exception. Polished and flavorful, it has textural, detailed flavors built upon black cherry, plum and cassis fruit. There is a light dusting of fresh herbs, and the wine has real grip and presence in the mouth. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

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Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Block 3 Merlot (Columbia Valley). A very limited (three barrels) block selection, this is a tough, chewy wine that remains stubbornly closed even after being open a full 24 hours. Hard cherry candy is concentrated in a tannic casing, with streaks of licorice, dark chocolate, and slightly bitter herbs wrapped around it. But the power and stuffing are there for significant improvement over time. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $31

MALBEC

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Kerloo 2011 Stone Tree Malbec (Wahluke Slope). Coming from a mixture of blocks 17 and 24 at Stone Tree Vineyard, it’s a dark, glassstaining wine with notes of plum, crushed blueberries, coffee, tar and spice. The palate is silky soft, textured in feel with concentrated coffee flavors. An exquisite sense of balance carries through to a long, lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

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Gamache Vintners 2010 Estate Malbec (Columbia Valley). Dark cassis fruit dotted with peppery herbs hallmark this estate-grown Malbec. Tannins are chewy and substantial, and the wine overall is solid and blocky, but quite mouthfilling and flavorful. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

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Market Vineyards 2010 Merval Malbec (Columbia Valley). The excellent Olsen vineyards provided the fruit for this pure Malbec. It’s still quite young, showing clean and tightly-wound flavors. Berry and cherry fruit highlights the palate, with a light hint of chocolate woven through the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $39

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Eleven 2011 Malbec (Red Mountain). Fruity with black cherry and cassis, this includes 22% Lemberger; both grapes sourced from Kiona. It’s peppery and herbal, with a slightly pickly character, likely from aging in 30% new American oak. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

SYRAH

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Mercer Canyons 2011 Red Blend (Columbia Valley). The blend is 81% Merlot, and includes small amounts of four other Bordeaux grapes as well. It’s aromatic with dried herbs and tart berries and plums bringing fresh flavors and juicy acidity. It’s well-built for another few years of cellaring. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

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Columbia Crest 2011 H3 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Unmistakably Washington Merlot with its notes of milk chocolate, raspberry, espresso and cherry. It’s light in style but still sumptuous in feel with slightly rustic tannins framing a lingering chocolate and vanilla-filled finish. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

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Syncline 2011 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah (Red Mountain). This is a focused, riveting expression of Red Mountain Syrah from a great vineyard. It’s packed with juicy flavors of fresh raspberries, tinged with tangerine-flavored acids. Elegant and fascinating, it’s a pure, fruit-driven expression of the grape, bolstered by the natural minerality of Ciel du Cheval fruit. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

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Syncline 2011 Boushey Vineyards Syrah (Yakima Valley). Pure Syrah from a great site is on display here. A core of brambly black fruit is presented with particular attention to details of texture, spice and overall balance. Polished and full

of finesse, this is a charmer at an attractive price. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

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Amavi Cellars 2011 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from the oldest blocks in the vineyard, this is a mélange of boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit, dotted with pepper and hints of brine and espresso. Young and compact, but complex and fascinating, this is a wine to tuck away until at least 2019. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

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Amavi Cellars 2011 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Half was whole-cluster fermented, yielding dense scents and flavors with black olive, herb and a touch of mocha. Cranberry, raspberry and cherry fruit flavors are smooth and detailed, and the tannins firm and polished. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $29

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DaMa 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This spicy, elegant take on Syrah will reward your attention. Boysenberry and other purple/black fruits are expressed both aromatically and on the palate, with light touches of vanilla. The overall impression is of a pretty, structured, textural wine, with excellent length and balance. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

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Reininger 2010 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). A pure varietal Syrah, this opens with a mix of peppery herbs, a hint of stem, and a whiff of tomato leaf. Give it some breathing room and the red currant fruit fleshes out, melding with darker flavors of licorice, soy and espresso, in a wine of medium length, with natural acidity and crisp tannins. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $44

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Eleven 2011 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). Lovely aromatics introduce this single-vineyard Syrah. It shows excellent complexity, from the opening floral aromatics on through the dense mix of compost, black tea, cherry tobacco and clove in the finish. The grapy young fruit is succulent and fresh, and suggests that aging until 2017–2019 will improve this wine still further. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

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Gamache Vintners 2010 Estate Syrah (Columbia Valley). All Syrah from the estate vineyard, this robust and flavorful wine is a burst of pure raspberry and cassis fruit, heavily accented with cigar-box scents and flavors. There is sufficient acidity to balance out the alcohol. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

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Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2009 Boushey Vineyard Syrah (Washington). This lively wine is sourced from the excellent Boushey vineyard in Washington’s Yakima valley. The deep black-

berry fruit is ripe and tasty; and the tannins nicely smoothed out with a dusty, chocolaty finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

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Helix by Reininger 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This Syrah emphasizes herb and spice, keeping the peppery fruit in the background. Nice grip and a pleasing texture contribute to the enjoyment, though the light, grapy flavors make you wonder how well the wine will age. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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Market Vineyards 2010 Dividend Syrah (Columbia Valley). Big and juicy, this pure Syrah from the Gamache vineyard mixes blue and black berry fruit flavors. The acids are in proportion, and the tannins ripe and smooth. Too much oak influence from aging in French and American barrels mutes some varietal nuances. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $39

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Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2010 Scarlet Lake Syrah (Washington). This Syrah with no rough edges is sourced from Boushey, Stillwater Creek and Alder Ridge fruit. Red and blue berries, plums and a mocha-soaked finish make it an easy, enjoyable quaffer. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $26

GRENACHE

lent Red Mountain sites: Heart of the Hill, Ciel du Cheval and Grand Rêve vineyards. Tart, stony raspberry fruit carries a hint of cured meat and straw. The wine displays excellent length and a delicious purity. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

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Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2010 Mo Mourvèdre (Washington). Elements of granite and steel combine with scents of pork fat and flavors of wild berries. The tannins are smooth and supple, and the wine carries a streak of green olive through the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

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Syncline 2011 Mourvèdre (Columbia Valley). Pure Mourvèdre from a mix of Columbia Valley vineyards, this is clean, sharp and varietally accurate. Tart raspberry fruit is set in a balanced frame of clean earth, wet stone and mineral. It’s a fine-boned wine, well-structured and powerful. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

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Kerloo 2011 Upland Vineyard Grenache (Snipes Mountain). This small-production, single-vineyard Grenache is direct and appealing with notes of raspberry compote, strawberry, orange peel, violets and tapenade. The palate is pure silk, elegant in its styling with an extended finish. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $46

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Kerloo 2011 Grenache (Horse Heaven Hills). 20% whole-cluster fermented, this rich, brooding blend of Alder Ridge (86%) and Snipes Mountain Grenache brings notes of licorice, dark cherry, black pepper and mortared herbs. It’s broad in feel, tart, fruit filled, and tightly wound, needing time in the cellar to unfurl. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $40

MOURVÈDRE

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Syncline 2011 Mourvèdre (Red Mountain). This is pure Mourvèdre from three excel-

Angel Vine 2011 Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). The entry-level Zin from Angel Vine combines fruit from the three single vineyard cuvées, along with a splash of Petite Sirah. Rich, plush berry scents and grapey berry fruit flavors abound— boysenberry, blackberry and more, buoyed with natural acidity. There is no sense that the alcohol is intrusive, and the wine fades gently with hints of red licorice and cocoa. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $19

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Angel Vine 2011 Stonetree Vineyard Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). Despite its high alcohol, this high-toned Zin does not have the crushing weight and overall power you’d anticipate. Cranberry and raspberry juice fruit flavors carry balancing acidity, and there’s a suggestion of refreshing minerality. Although at first the wine seems disjointed, it smoothes out nicely with aeration. —P.G. abv: 15.7% Price: $20

IDAHO WHITE WINES

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Eleven 2011 Sugarloaf Vineyard Mourvèdre (Yakima Valley). Tart and brambly, this carries well-integrated streaks of earth and bark along with the light berry flavors. At first the tannins feel a bit rough, but the wine smoothes out and lightens up into a fresh, fruity finish. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

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Syncline 2011 Grenache (Columbia Valley). A sensational effort, this wine is 100% varietal, sourced from four vineyards scattered throughout the sprawling Columbia Valley. Fragrant and concentrated, its hallmarks are purity and intensity. Plum, cherry liqueur and cassis are the focus, with bright lemony acids adding lift and zip to the mouthfeel. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

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Sawtooth 2012 Estate Grown Pinot Gris (Snake River Valley). Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this is a direct and appealing wine that brings notes of freshly cut red apple and peach, with a dash of Muscat Blanc (1%) lifting the aromatics. It’s medium bodied with a pleasing interplay of citrus and stone fruit flavors throughout. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

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Angel Vine 2011 Alder Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). As the vines grow older, the Alder Ridge Zins gain complexity and gravitas with each new vintage. Tart and brambly, this is a berry-fest, with racy flavors of cranberry, strawberry, raspberry and hints of baking spice. The acidity and overall balance suggest that this can prosper through 2020. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $20 Angel Vine 2011 Avery Vineyard Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). Among the four vineyards used by Angel Vine, the Avery stands apart for its detail, grip and length. Blue fruits take center stage—plums and berries—along with a tasty lick of coffee and chocolate. You may pick up a hint of the tack room and a streak of fennel in the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $20

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Angel Vine 2011 Primitivo (Columbia Valley). Primitivo is a close relation to Zinfandel, and it slides easily into the Angel Vine lineup which includes four other Zins. This carries a touch more earthiness than the others, with darker fruits and a distinctive streak of espresso. Good grip and density mark this as the most muscular wine among the 2011’s. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $20

Sawtooth 2011 Sawtooth Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Snake River Valley). Fermented with 30% new American oak, it’s direct and appealing with notes of melted caramel, vanilla, and toast. The flavors are rich and medium bodied, finishing a bit short. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

Colter’s Creek 2012 Viognier (Snake River Valley). A lightly aromatic wine with notes of peach, melon, and toasted grapenuts. It drinks off dry, but lacks the stitching to hold it all together. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $15

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Ste. Chapelle 2012 Chardonnay (Snake River Valley). Aged in a mixture of French and American oak, it’s ripe and fruity with abundant notes of apricot and pineapple. The flavors are compact with their richness lending a sense of sweetness. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

RED WINES

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Colter’s Creek 2011 Syrah (Snake River Valley). For full review see page 78. Best Buy. abv: 13.6% Price: $13

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Koenig Vineyards 2010 Cuvée Amelia Reserve Syrah (Snake River Valley). Co-fermented with 5% Viognier and aged in new French oak for 18 months, it’s brightly aromatic with notes of Creamsicle, flowers, mint and herbs. The wood gives a slightly ponderous feel and the tart acids still need some time to calm down. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

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Koenig Vineyards 2010 Cuvee Alden Private Reserve (Snake River Valley). 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot aged two years in new French oak, the wood notes are quite prominent along with mint, cherry, and chocolate. True to the vintage, it’s lighter in style with tart fruit flavors, mouthwatering acids, and firm tannins that still need some time to come into their own. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

SWEET WINE

with a rich, luxurious mouthfeel. Finishes moderately long with a lingering slick of butter. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

it finishes with a lacy sweetness and just a hint of fresh herbs. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

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Sherwood House Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). Freshly pressed apples and lemon notes are accented with just a hint of floral notes. It’s texture is rich and full in body, adding opulence to the midpalate. Zesty acidity lends an edge towards the finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $30 Treleaven 2011 Vintner’s Cuvée Chardonnay (Cayuga Lake). Whiffs of smoke and dusty minerals add subtle complexity to soft apple and floral notes. It’s dry and delicately framed, but hints of cream and nut flavors add a tad of richness. Finishes briskly with a hit of lemony acidity. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $NA

RIESLING

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Koenig Vineyards 2011 Ice Wine Riesling (Snake River Valley). This is a über aromatic wine with a long list of notes that include orange marmalade, peach, citrus, and drizzled honey. Harvested at 42 brix and retaining a whopping 240 g/L residual sugar, it’s supremely rich and sweet with a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 10.5% Price: $20/375 ml

NEW YORK CHARDONNAY

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Lakewood 2011 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Vanilla and toast notes highlight concentrated apple and quince flavors in this supple, fullbodied wine. It’s dry in style and velvety on the palate with a moderately long, elegant finish. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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Belhurst 2011 Chardonnay (Seneca Lake). Leesy, yeasty notes lend a savory feel to freshly-pressed apple and herb flavors in this easydrinking Chardonnay. It’s dry in style with a delicate mouthfeel that’s accentuated by bright streaks of lemony acidity. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

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Red Tail Ridge 2012 RTR Estate Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). For full review see page 76. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12% Price: $16

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Red Tail Ridge 2012 RTR Vineyard Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). For full review see page 77. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12% Price: $19

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Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Bristling with lime zest and a steely, mineral tone, this dry, moderate-bodied Riesling is elegant and refreshing from start to finish. It’s packed with white peach and apricot flavors, but zippy and bright with hints of fresh herbs that linger on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

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Knapp 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Delicate whiffs of quince and white blossom lend an elegant flair to this dry, refreshingly tart Riesling. It’s juicy with peach and mango flavors, but maintains a zesty mineral quality that’s invigorating through the finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

Seneca Shore NV Amulet Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Herbal notes lend elegance and freshness to this bright, citrusy wine. Dry on the palate with a lean, linear style, it’s refreshing and quaffable with a moderately long lime-zest finish. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

Silver Thread 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). The faintest waft of marshmallow lends a pleasantly confectionery note to stone-fruit and blossom aromas on this dry, medium-bodied Riesling. The palate is elegant with brisk herbal tones and zesty lime acidity. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18

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Keuka Spring 2012 Humphreys Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). A bit smoky and savory in style, this slightly off-dry wine balances earthy mineral tones with flavors of pressed pear and apple. Sprightly acidity gives it a refreshing, easy-drinking quality. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $22

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Martha Clara 2012 Estate Reserve Riesling (North Fork of Long Island). Perfumed with notes of white flowers, melon and peach, this off-dry wine is delicate on the palate with sweet stone-fruit flavors offset by brisk lemon acidity. It’s straightforward in style but bright and fresh with a hint of honey that lingers. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $26

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Silver Thread 2012 Gridley Bluff Point Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Lime and lemon notes waft on the nose of this slightly off-dry Riesling, accenting flavors of apple and pear. It’s a bit dainty in profile, but refreshing on the palate with a hint of dried herb and brisk lime acidity. —A.I. abv: 11.8% Price: $25

MERLOT

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Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Estate Bottled Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Perfumed on the nose with intense aromas of flowers, tropical fruit and even vanilla, this heady wine might come off a bit cloying. The palate is dry and cut with acidity, making it refreshingly quaffable. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

Wölffer 2010 Christian’s Cuvee Merlot (The Hamptons, Long Island). Crisp, pristine blackberry notes are deeply penetrating on the nose and palate. It’s ripe and luscious on the palate with layers of savory herb, smoke and hay that add complexity and flair. Big, impenetrable tannins need time to mellow, but are likely to smooth out beautifully through 2019. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $100

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Hosmer Winery 2010 Limited Release Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Savory apple and spice notes mark this bright wine. Brisk lemon acidity cuts through the full-bodied palate, giving it a refreshing, balanced mouthfeel. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 Martha Clara 2010 Estate Reserve Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). Bright apple and lemon aromas, along with a hint of sweet creamed corn, introduce this generously oaked Chardonnay. It’s dry in style but bold on the palate

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Pindar Vineyards 2012 Estate Bottled Riesling (North Fork of Long Island). This intensely aromatic, off-dry Riesling jumps from the glass with a heady bouquet of flowers and tropical fruit. On the palate, flavors of peach and blossom are highlighted with brisk lemon-lime acidity. Pretty and pleasing,

Wölffer 2010 Lombardo Merlot (The Hamptons, Long Island). Deeply saturated with blackberry and plum flavors, this powerful, boldly structured Merlot balances rich fruit with complex shades of earth and mineral. Umami-rich whiffs of soy sauce and hay linger from nose to finish, hint-

ing towards its development. It’s pleasant now, but should meld considerably through 2019. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.7% Price: $35

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Raphael 2010 First Label Merlot (North Fork of Long Island). Bright and cheery with ripe red-berry and plum flavors accented with a hint of sweet spice, it’s soft and lushly textured. The palate is fleshy and yielding, but wraps up with big, chunky tannins. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $49

RED BLENDS

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Wölffer 2010 Fatalis Fatum (The Hamptons, Long Island). Whiffs of earth and mushroom against a backdrop of intensely aromatic red cherry, fresh herb and spice hint to the future of this bold, complex Bordeaux blend. The palate is juicy with fruit, but shaded with rustic layers of autumn leaves and wet soil, along with a bracing cranberry acidity. It’s quite nice now, but should improve further through 2019. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.3% Price: $40

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Lieb 2010 Right Coast Red (North Fork of Long Island). Quite youthful in style with bright, fresh cassis and crisp black-plum flavors accented with hints of menthol and bramble wood, this is an elegantly structured, intensely flavored Bordeaux-style blend. Supple on the palate, it has layers of penetrating but fine-grained tannins that linger long on the finish, along with a spray of violet perfume. —A.I. abv: 13.4% Price: $30

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McGregor 2010 Rob Roy Red (Finger Lakes). Rich black-cherry pie, vanilla and spice notes mark this intensely aromatic Bordeaux-style blend made of 60% Cabernet Franc augmented with equal proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The palate is bright with tart sour-cherry flavor wrapped in layers of velvety smooth tannins. Finishes moderately long. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

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Suhru 2010 Red (North Fork of Long Island). This kitchen-sink blend of red grape varieties balances fresh, ripe black cherry and berry notes with nuanced layers of smoke, earth and bramble. It’s concentrated on the palate with rich, juicy fruit but quite rigid with tannins still. It’s pleasant to drink now, but structured enough to improve through 2019. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Raphael 2010 La Tavola (North Fork of Long Island). Hints of earth and mushroom, soy sauce and brine add umami to succulent blackberry and cherry flavors in this Merlot-based Bordeaux blend. The palate is crisp with sour-cherry acidity, and finishes with bold, chunky tannins that linger. It’s showing quite a bit of maturity already, so drink now with a quick decant. —A.I. abv: 12.6% Price: $14

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Sherwood House Vineyards 2010 Sherwood Manor Estate Grown (North Fork of Long Island). This Bordeaux-style blend is enticing on the nose with bold scents of cherry-pie preserves, spice and menthol. It’s juicy and concentrated on the palate with soft, ripe cherry and plum flavors, but accompanied by raw, jagged tannins. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $45

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Macari 2010 Bergen Road (North Fork of Long Island). For full review see page 77. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $46

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Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard 2010 Horse Rescue Mirage (North Fork of Long Island). Blackberry and cherry notes are fresh and primary in this Merlot-based Bordeaux blend, but shaded with interesting notes of coffee and smoke. The palate is juicy and supple with soft, furry tannins that accentuate a velvety mouthfeel. It’s a boldly structured wine, but elegantly framed and long on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

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McGregor 2010 Black Russian Red (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of ripe black cherries, vanilla and spice, along with delicate hints of soil and barnyard, mark this unusual blend of Saperavi and Sereksiya grapes. Tart black-fruit flavors accented with swathes of fresh herbs are a bit lean on the palate, but the acidity is gentle. It’s dry and easy drinking in style with smooth, gentle tannins. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $55

OTHER RED WINES

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Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). This aromatic wine is lovely on the nose with notes of red cherries and blossoms. It’s dry in style but lusciously textured with a palate that intensifies and ripens with black plum and cherry flavors. Finishes long with a spray of delicate florals. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $22

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Damiani 2010 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Black pepper and rustic bramble notes accent tart black-cherry flavors in this dry, full-bodied wine. It’s lushly textured but elegantly balanced with brisk cranberry acidity and soft tannins that linger on the finish. —A.I. abv: 13.9% Price: $43

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Peconic Bay Winery 2010 Malbec (North Fork of Long Island). Fresh and youthful, it’s intensely juicy with flavors of black cherry and berry intensified with swathes of fresh herb and menthol. Supple and ripe on the palate, it holds just a mur-

mur of tannins. Finishes long with a delicate earthiness hinting at its future development. —A.I. abv: 12.4% Price: $36

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Osprey’s Dominion 2010 Malbec (North Fork of Long Island). Hints of hay and mushroom against a backdrop of crisp blackberry and plum lend attractive maturity and rusticity to this Malbec (blended with Merlot and Tannat). It’s robust on the palate with intense black fruit flavors, penetrating tannins and a warmth that lingers on the finish. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $40

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Standing Stone 2010 The Dark Red Saperavi (Finger Lakes). Crushed granite notes lend a distinct minerality to ripe black cherry and plum flavors in this wine made from the Georgian (the republic, not the state) Saperavi grape. It’s dry in style with a delicate frame marked by gentle tannins and soft acidity. —A.I. abv: 12.4% Price: $30

SWEET WINES

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Hermann J. Wiemer 2010 Noble Select Josef Vineyard Riesling (Seneca Lake). Saffron and honey notes are earthy and dusty in profile, but add striking complexity to a palate that’s concentrated with peach and orange flavors. Strong acidity cuts through layers of luscious honey and fruit, before finishing on a pleasantly floral note. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 6.8% Price: $95

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Hermann J. Wiemer 2009 Noble Select Josef Vineyard Riesling (Seneca Lake). Dusty mineral notes lend complexity to unctuously sweet flavors of preserved peach and marmalade in this late harvest, botrytized Riesling. Delicate on the palate, it balances tight citrus acidity with long streaks of honey and saffron that linger on the finish. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 6.3% Price: $95

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Heron Hill 2010 Bunch Select Late Harvest Riesling (Finger Lakes). Honey and almond notes lend a nutty earthiness to lifted citrus aromas. It’s concentrated with sweet tangerine flavor, and has a sharp, zesty acidity that drives a moderately long finish. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $34/375 ml

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Heron Hill 2010 Late Harvest Vidal Blanc (Finger Lakes). Citrus and peach aromas introduce this exotically floral wine. Sweet with honey and blossom notes, it balances rich, luscious texture with zesty acidity and a hint of minerals on the finish. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $18

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SPIRITS

Blanco margarita sodek much more dek goesTequila: here dek goes herematerial dek goesand here goes here

W

hether you call it blanco, silver or plata, category most often used in cocktails. Try adding these unaged (or barely aged) Tequilas crème de cassis and ginger beer to make a spicy are worth a second look. diablo, or grapefruit soda to top up a refreshing Layer on some barrel age, and you paloma. have reposado (“rested”) Tequila; a longer turn The go-to blanco cocktail is the classic marin the barrel yields anejo (“aged”) Tequila. But garita. Just add fresh lime juice, orange liqueur some purists believe that blanco and a generous scoop of ice, and Tequila is the only “real” Tequiyou’re good to go—fruity variaSome purists la—an unadorned distillation of tions optional. the agave plant. Try this blueprint from Amy believe that blanco It’s also an excellent canvas Zavotto’s The Architecture of the Tequila is the only for showcasing differences in terCocktail: 2 ounces silver Tequila, “real” Tequila— roir. Most Tequila originates in 1 ounce Cointreau and ½ ounce an unadorned Jalisco, Mexico. Those made from lime juice, shaken with ice and agave plants grown in the highstrained into a salt-rimmed mardistillation of the lands area tend to have a fruity, tini glass. agave plant. floral, herbaceous quality, while However you prefer your marin the lowlands, the volcanic soils garita, be sure that your Tequila yield an earthier, drier Tequila. Taking it a step is labeled 100% blue agave—anything less is confurther, some small producers specify particular sidered a mixto, often half agave, half random estates where the agave plants were grown. sources of sugar (read: hangover city). All of the Compared to reposados and anejos, blancos brands reviewed here are 100% agave, so grab a tend to be reasonably priced, making them the bottle and start mixing! —Kara Newman

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Reserva Tequila Partida Blanco (Mexico; Partida Tequila, San Francisco, CA). For full review see page 79. abv: 40% Price: $40

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Siete Leguas Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Sazerac/Gemini Wines & Spirits, Chicago, IL). Zesty and spicy, this highlands Tequila shows dried herbs, jalapeño, lemon peel and black pepper, all wrapped up in a clean finish. The alcohol levels feel surprisingly restrained for a blanco. Consider pairing alongside rich or fried foods. abv: 40% Price: $40

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Cruz Silver Tequila (Mexico; Los Diablos Intl, Scottsdale, AZ). A refined, classic take on blanco, this Tequila has a soft feel and rounded agave sweetness. The peppery heat—more cayenne and cinnamon than vegetal jalapeño—is muted at first, but builds with repeated sips. abv: 40% Price: $45

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Casamigos Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Serralles USA, Irving, TX). Co-owned by actor George Clooney and nightlife impresario Rande Gerber, this blanco is smooth and light. The aromas are restrained, but on the palate look for mild agave sweetness backed by lemon zest, ginger and white 118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

pepper sparks, plus a candied lemon-peel note on the gentle exit. abv: 40% Price: $43

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Tequila Don Ramon Silver (Mexico; ER Distributors, San Antonio, TX). Pleasantly peppery, this silver Tequila offers plenty of citrus, jalapeño and a clean finish. It provides a versatile backdrop for mixing a wide range of cocktails. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $24

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Tequila Gran Dovejo Blanco (Mexico; Mendez Imports, Dixon, CA). Inside the handsome, hefty bottle are spice-rack aromas. But the flavors are light and complex, interlacing honey with lime zest, mineral and faint white flowers that float off at the end. A top pick for pitchers of high-end margaritas. abv: 40% Price: $44

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El Charro Tequila Silver (Mexico; Sazerac/ Gemini Wines & Spirits, Chicago, IL). Given some time to open up, this silver Tequila almost reads like an eau-de-vie, with subtle plum notes, agave sweetness and a peppery zing on the brisk finish. That peppery presence builds with repeated sips. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $19

Milagro Select Barrel Reserve Silver (Mexico; William Grant & Sons, New York, NY). Delicate and light, and presented in a gorgeous bottle with a spiky glass piña (agave) blown inside. The mild, almost neutral aroma hints at vanilla. The feather-light flavors seem to float off the tongue, suggesting vanilla, jalapeño, granite and a flicker of cayenne sizzle on the exit. abv: 40% Price: $53

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Tequila Platinum Baron Blanco (Mexico; MHW, Manhasset, NY). For full review see page 80. abv: 40% Price: $55

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Tequila Reserva de Don Julio Blanco (Mexico; Diageo Americas, Norwalk, CT). The aroma is on the sweet side, mixing honeyed and grassy notes with a touch of fresh pear. It’s sweet and fruity on the palate as well, with a light, silky feel and a flourish of baking spice on the crisp finish. abv: 40% Price: $45

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Chinaco Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Anchor Distilling, San Francisco, CA). Look for mild, herbaceous aromas and a fleeting orange-peel note on the palate, concluding with a jalapeño snap. The alcohol is well balanced. abv: 40% Price: $30

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Tequila Arette Artesanal Suave Blanco (Mexico; Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA). Close your eyes and you might think that’s tomato juice in the glass. It’s clear, but the fragrance is zesty, lemony and yes, fresh tomato-like. On the palate, dried oregano and green pepper come forward, plus a trace of tomato savoriness, and it finishes light, with lively lemon zest. It’s mouthwatering, with moderate alcohol feel. abv: 40% Price: $40

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Tequila Corazon Blanco (Mexico; Sazerac/ Gemini Wines & Spirits, Chicago, IL). The super-fruity aroma suggests peaches and pears. On the palate, it’s more lean and green, with jalapeño pepper and black pepper smoothed with agave. The fruitiness just peeks out on the finish. abv: 40% Price: $40

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Tequila Corazon Expresione Blanco Artisanal Edition (Mexico; Sazerac/Gemini Wines & Spirits, Chicago, IL). Very different from the standard-issue Corazon Blanco, this joint effort between Tequila Master Distiller Miguel Cedeno Cruz and whiskey-barrel expert Harlen Wheatley is aged in former Bourbon and rye casks from Sazerac’s collection. Earthy yet fruity, this blanco brings mushrooms and bruised apples to mind. The finish displays some alcohol heat, and shows flashes of ginger, white pepper, eucalyptus and anise. abv: 40% Price: $70

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Tequila Terra Firme Blanco (Mexico; Double Eagle Imports, Alpharetta, GA). The sweet aroma layers agave and citrus with a faintly minty note. Look for that and more on the palate, as flavors of jalapeño and cayenne peppers round the bases into a citrusy, crisp finish. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $24

CLASSIFIEDS

BEER

INTERNATIONAL CORKSCREW AUCTION

Lagers to welcome in summer

Online Bidding Apr. 18 — May 10, 2014

A

cent mouthfeels. Both typically have moderate lthough we haven’t gotten to the truly hot alcohol (between 4.0% and 6.0% abv) and carmonths yet, May is a great time to take a bonation levels, and are frequently intended as look at some of the beer styles you should session beers. get to know ahead of all of the upcoming Then there are Pilsners (or Pilseners, or Pils season’s outdoor entertaining. Although perfor short). Overall, Pils are known for their light sonal preferences vary, the one beer style that’s color, low alcohol and immense drinkability. sure to quench your thirst on those hot days at Born in the 19th century city of Plzen in the the park, the barbecue or the poolside bash is Czech Republic (or Pilsen in lager. Bohemia), Czech Pilseners are Known for being crispThe one beer pale lagers, light straw to golder, cleaner and more refreshing than ales, lagers are lighter style that’s sure to en in color with a crystal-clear in body and alcohol while bequench your thirst appearance. One of the defining characteristics of these brews ing moderate to high in carbonon those hot days is the use of the noble Saaz ation. Two of the more common styles for summer entertaining at the park, the bar- hop, which can produce lovely, are Euro pale lagers and Ameribecue or the pool- spicy-bitter aromas and flavors. German Pilsners are simican adjunct lagers. side bash is lager. lar to Czech Pilseners but use a Euro pale lagers generally wider variety of hops. have low to moderate aromas, Here’s to the warm days ahead, and to being flavors and bitterness, and are backed by a solprepared with a fridge full of refreshing brews. id malt body, while American adjunct lagers ofProst! —Lauren Buzzeo fer little to no hop presence and light, efferves-

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Pilsner Urquell (Czech Pilsener; Plzensky Prazdroj, Czech Republic). Considered by many brewers to be the “original” Pilsner and a benchmark for the style, this is a highly refreshing and wellbalanced selection that’s very sessionable. Light gold in color, faint aromas of bready grain, fresh-cut grass and herbal hops lead the bouquet. The mouthfeel is smooth and bright, with moderate carbonation and subtle flavors of sweet malts and biscuit dough, with a tough of spicy hop character that carries through to the dry, clean finish. Pilsner Urquell USA. abv: 4.4% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

Herrmannsdorfer Schweinsbräu Gold Bavarian Lager (Munich Helles Lager; Herrmannsdorfer Schweinsbräu, Germany). This clean, highly refreshing selection pours a clear light-gold color, with a frothy off-white head that lingers. Initial aromas of mildly sweet malts open the bouquet, with secondary notes of grain, hay and subtle accents of grassy hops and honey. A hint of mineral adds character to the palate, which is clean and well balanced thanks to slightly tart and astringent notes that counter the sweet malt flavors. This would be an ideal match for a plate of cured meats and cheeses. Magellan Wine Imports. abv: 4.8% Price: $4/500 ml

Theresianer Premium Lager (Euro pale lager; HTS 1892, Italy). Clear yellow in color with a small but lingering white head, this looks bright, clean and refreshing right from the start—and it is. The aromas are very faint, with soft hints of husky grain, dried grass and herbal hops. A mild bitterness adds interest to the lightly flavored palate and a bit of texture to the otherwise smooth and light mouthfeel. This is highly drinkable, with a clean and malty finish. Magellan Wine Imports. abv: 4.8% Price: $2/12 oz Wolters Pilsener (German Pilsener; Hofbrauhaus Wolters, Germany). Here’s a sessionable Pils that pours a crystal-clear clean gold color with a thin white head. There’s a faint mineral and skunky edge to the nose that dissipates with time, leaving soft scents of grassy grain and malt. The palate is quite grainy and green, with flavors of husk, crushed malt and a touch of grassy hops. The body is light, with medium carbonation and a crisp, clean finish that makes this an ideal session selection. Iron Horse Beverage LLC. abv: 4.9% Price: $7/11.2 oz 6 pack

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lastdrop

THE WINEMAKER IN THE BASEMENT A writer remembers his grandfather’s homemade wine.

BY AL VUONA

120 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

In broken English he would insist madre natura bestowed upon him his winemaking gifts. And he was always saying how making wine at home was an Italian tradition, and a practically mandatory custom in his family. He was proud of his wine—sometimes a bit too proud. If a sip elicited anything but an oh-this-is-delicious smile, his thick, bushy eyebrows would rise as he muttered a few Italian curses.

But most of the time his pride was evident in his desire to share his creation with neighbors, friends and family. My grandfather believed wine was a rite of passage, especially for the men and boys in the family. By allowing me to assist him and even taste a little of his often-pungent batches, he hoped I would develop a lifelong appreciation for wine. It worked.

GS/GALLERY STOCK

M

y grandfather was a self-taught winemaker. The grapes he used weren’t wine grapes, but locally grown Concords. And his winery and cellar was the dark, cool basement of his two-bedroom house in a working-class neighborhood outside Boston. For bottles, he used mason jars that had once held everything from pickles to pig’s feet. And for the better part of 40 years he continued to churn out jar after jar of his barely drinkable, sweet red wine. Our traditional Sunday meal included mountains of pasta and meatballs, and homemade sauce. To my grandfather, the meal wasn’t complete without his homemade vino. After tearing into his food and washing it down with his red, he would lean back, belly full, and declare, “soddisfatto.” I once asked why he never bothered to label his jars, or keep track of vintages. He sat back in his favorite chair, with a big grin holding a glass of wine, and said over and over, ‘una bella cosa,’ which means a beautiful thing. Labels weren’t important, he explained, the proof of any wine is simply what’s in the glass.

Gran Reserva 2001

Top Wine of the Year 2013 97 point rating • January 2014•

©2014 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL

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