Wine Enthusiast Magazine - March 2014

MARCH

FEATURES 32

YOUR GUIDE TO HOMEBREWING BY LAUREN BUZZEO Now’s the time to go from suds fan to craft beer baron with our expert guide.

34

THE ACCIDENTAL WINE BY MICHAEL SCHACHNER Dark, idiosyncratic Carmenère has found a comfortable home in Chile’s warm valleys.

40

28

58

WINE’S EXOTIC ADDRESSES BY THE EDITORS From icy Sweden to tropical Southeast Asia, intrepid vintners push the wine world’s boundaries.

46

WASHINGTON’S RISE OF THE RHÔNES BY PAUL GREGUTT AND SEAN P. SULLIVAN These trailblazing wineries have turned Washington into America’s top source of Rhône-style wines.

52

ITALY’S BEST KEPT SECRET BY KERIN O’KEEFE Le Marche is everything travelers love about Italy, minus the crowds.

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DIVINE SWINE BY VIRGINIE BOONE Exploring the wonders of pairing Pinot Noir and pork.

COVER PHOTO: TODD HUFFMAN

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46

10

22

DEPARTMENTS

COLUMNS

OUT & ABOUT

EDITOR’S LETTER

10

6

Inside the Party Scene

THE CRUSH 13 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28

Syrups are the New Bitters What’s in Your Wine Q&A: Ray Walker Dining Trend: The New New South Drinking Endangered Grapes Cocktail of the Month: The Raisin Cane The Queen of NOLA Recipe of the Month: Okra Gumbo Central London Calling

LAST DROP 104 Take Two Sips and Call Me in the Morning

Welcome to the New Wine Enthusiast

VIEWPOINT 30

Bordeaux Is Back

BUYING GUIDE 66 82 86 89 90 92 95 99 102 103

Alsace Italy Austria Greece South Africa Chile California Washington Spirits Beer

13

WINEMAG.COM | 3

VOLUME 27, NUMBER 2

PUBLISHER & EDITOR Adam M. Strum VICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLISHING WINE ENTHUSIAST MEDIA Jay Spaleta EDITORIAL EXECUTIVE EDITOR Susan Kostrzewa MANAGING EDITOR Joe Czerwinski SENIOR EDITOR Mike Dawson WEB EDITOR/PRODUCER Marina Vataj ASSISTANT EDITOR Joseph Hernandez CALIFORNIA EDITOR Steve Heimoff EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Sean Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Alexis Korman CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen SPIRITS EDITOR Kara Newman CREATIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli ART DIRECTOR Julia Lea DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Megan Baggott DIRECTOR OF PRINT PRODUCTION Barbara Gianisis TASTING TASTING DIRECTOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING COORDINATOR Molly Sowers ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Alexander Peartree EDITORIAL OFFICES 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549 TEL: 914.345.9463 FAX: 914.218.9186 [email protected] CALIFORNIA Steve Heimoff [email protected] Virginie Boone [email protected] EUROPE Roger Voss TEL/FAX: +33 562 09 50 76 [email protected] ITALY Kerin O’Keefe TEL: +41 91 930.0080 [email protected] SOUTH AMERICA & SPAIN Michael Schachner [email protected] PACIFIC NORTHWEST Paul Gregutt [email protected] Sean Sullivan [email protected] ADVERTISING & MARKETING VP PUBLISHING Jay Spaleta 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY TEL: 914.345.9463 ext. 4611 FAX: 866.887.0943 [email protected] SOUTHEAST U.S. Denise Valenza TEL: 800.315.4397 [email protected] WESTERN U.S. Allison Langhoff TEL: 800.319.6920 [email protected] ACCOUNT MANAGERS Jennifer Gandolfi [email protected]; Debora Stein [email protected] ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Christine Bires [email protected] ADVERTISING SERVICES COORDINATOR Jen Cortellini [email protected] MANAGER OF COMMUNICATIONS Jacqueline Strum [email protected] ART DIRECTOR OF EVENTS Eileen Curran [email protected] MARKETING COORDINATOR Carlie Tynan [email protected] CIRCULATION PROCIRC 3191 Coral Way, Suite 510, Miami, FL CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Jim Motrinec [email protected] CIRCULATION ASSISTANT Susi Chapman [email protected] RETAILERS To carry Wine Enthusiast Magazine, call 800.381.1288 ext. 6048 SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES 800.829.5901 (International: 386.447.2397) [email protected] BACK ISSUES AND ADDITIONAL COPIES Jen Cortellini [email protected] REPRINTS Claudia Stachowiak [email protected] WINE ENTHUSIAST COMPANIES CHAIRMAN Adam M. Strum CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Sybil Strum PRESIDENT Hank Rosen CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Heidi Moore VICE PRESIDENT MARKETING Glenn Edelman Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly with one special issue, a total of 13 times per year. Subscriptions are $34.95 (International: Canada $59.95; Foreign $89.95). ©2014 Wine News, Inc. 333 North Bedford Road, Mount Kisco, NY 10549. Periodical postage paid at Mount Kisco, NY and additional mailing ofces. Manufactured and printed in the USA. Reprints: You must obtain permission to reproduce any material. Postmaster: Please send address changes to Wine Enthusiast, P.O. Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142.0234.

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Limited Production

The Great American Whiskey www.michters.com MICHTER’S DISTILLERY LLC ★ LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY

editor’sletter

WELCOME TO THE NEW WINE ENTHUSIAST We’ve redesigned the magazine to speak to you, the modern wine drinker.

T

IS THERE ANYTHING SEXIER THAN A DEEP G A R N E T- C O LO R E D GLASS OF WINE?

homas Jefferson once said, “A little rebellion is a good thing.” At Wine Enthusiast, we hope we’re challenging the predictable every time we put ink to paper or post a Web page. From the beginning, the magazine has championed progressive and realistic ways to live with great wine every day. We reject the notion that loving wine means joining the smoking jacket-and-cigar brigade of the past. Over the last three years we have refned our message of wine democracy, striving for the perfect balance of education and entertainment, and addressing today’s wine drinker in a way no one else does. With the March issue, we drive our fag into the ground for savvy and discovery-driven wine lovers everywhere. Welcome to the new Wine Enthusiast. What’s diferent? Our logo, to start. We’re refocusing on the reader, the “wine enthusiast” with clean, confdent type, and celebrating the global nature of our wine (and beverage) world with a new tagline, “The world in your glass.” We embrace wine as the ultimate entrée into other incredible experiences in life, like dining and travel. You’ll see more of them in our stories, in this issue and beyond. You’ll also fnd more beer and spirits…other passions we share with you.

Is there anything sexier than a deep garnet-colored glass of wine, or an artfully arrayed plate of seasonal food? Our new design showcases photography from top names in the feld, capturing topics in energetic, real-life settings that are graphic and playful. Yes, you can have fun with wine and still be serious about it. We think wine is beautiful and our new pages show you how alive it can be. A sense of humor is a trademark at Wine Enthusiast, and our new direction fully embraces the fun along with the informative. Our reimagined front section, “The Crush,” highlights trends with swagger, while features approach wine, spirits and beer in more joyful—and surprising—ways than ever before. Lively and adventurous, modern and enjoyable…we think the world of wine, spirits and beer is a Monday-throughSunday celebration, and we want you to feel the same way. Thanks for joining us as we move into the new phase of this exciting adventure we call wine. Cheers!

ADAM STRUM EDITOR & PUBLISHER

SUSAN KOSTRZEWA EXECUTIVE EDITOR

OUR EVOLUTION Founded in 1988, the publication has always sought creative ways to engage wine drinkers and the trade. Over the years,

wine consumers and the lifestyle of wine, including dining, travel, entertaining, spirits and beer—all inextricable elements of enjoying vinous culture today.

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

RICHARD FREEDA

our focus has shifted to discovery-driven

Call us crazy but in Lodi, we’re all for taking wine places no wine has gone before. That’s because after 150 years of growing, crushing, barreling and bottling, we’ve discovered that when you love wine as much as we do, it doesn’t matter where you are enjoying it, just that you enjoy it. What can we say, we’re...

lodiwine.com

winemag.com CLICK. DISCOVER. CONNECT.

YOUR CALI HIT LIST We know there’s a lot to choose from when it comes to visiting California’s wine regions. So to help you simplify your hit list, we asked our editors in the field for their favorite spots to sip, snack and explore while on the West Coast. Watch Wine Enthusiast TV’s behind-the-scenes report on where you should schedule a stop in the Golden State. Visit winemag.com/capicks >>>

@WINEENTHUSIAST followers

are busy drinking wine and snapping pictures of their vineyard visits, and now we’re regramming our favorite photos. Follow us and use #WineEnthusiast next time you post your scenic snapshot—and keep an eye out for our cool Insta-contests.

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

We asked our Twitter followers to tell us their favorite vodkas. Here’s what booze they stock in their home bar. Best vodka and underrated, hands down, is @Stoli —@RealToneEdmonds @Valtvodka for me —@SimonStorrie

SIPPING AND SHIPPING —we’ve

heard all about it. You visit a vineyard, discover a wine, and then—er—you can’t mail a box of your new favorite fruit juice to your home state. Don’t fret, because our wine-shipping guide tells you everything you need to know about how to get your bottles from A to B. Visit winemag.com/shipwine to use our comprehensive resource, and easily share it with your friends.

HASHTAGVODKA

Tito’s out of Texas for the price. Don’t let the label fool you. —@crspecketer Why, Finlandia of course. —@Finnfield Grey Goose and Snow Leopard —@Lostinmaremma @asiasolo, Jackson-Triggs Winery

KATIE NEWBURN; STYLING: NICOLE GREY; FOOD STYLING: LILLIAN KANG

FEATURED VIDEO

JOHNNIE WALKER ANNUAL HOLIDAY PARTY AT THE HUDSON HOTEL, NEW YORK CITY One of the hottest tickets of the season, the JW party kicked off early and went all night. The stars of the affair were the glittering gold bottles of the brand’s newly launched Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve.

BAR BORDEAUX OPENING PARTY AT THE CARLTON HOTEL, NEW YORK CITY The Collective Hospitality Team (Millesime) and the Bordeaux Region celebrated the opening of the hotel wine bar devoted to the 8,000 chateaus of Bordeaux.

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

JOHNNIE WALKER: LOUISA CARAGAN; MOET: ALEX J. BERLINER/AB IMAGES; BAR BORDEAUX: WILLCADENA.COM

71ST ANNUAL GOLDEN GLOBE AWARDS DINNER AT THE BEVERLY HILTON, BEVERLY HILLS Moët & Chandon celebrated its role as the ofcial Champagne of the Golden Globes for the 23rd consecutive year, serving Moët Imperial to the likes of Leonardo DiCaprio, Julia Louis-Dreyfus and Liev Schreiber.

Drink Montes Alpha style. Drink responsibly.

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ourcrush THIS MONTH

DON’T BE SO BITTER The art of mixology lies in balancing the bitter and sweet, but if you’ve been to a bar in the last five years (we suspect you have), you no doubt recognize that bitter is dominating. Cynar concoctions are commonplace, Campari negronis are on tap and you need Excel to track all the new artisanal bitter brands and flavors coming out of Brooklyn alone. We love the trend, but in this bitter revolution the sweet side of cocktails has been left behind. That’s why our Crush this month is Blue J Syrups’s fruit, flower and herb sweeteners, which are deliciously closing the bitter-sweet gap. With flavors like Spiced Pear, Mango Hibiscus and Lime & Sage, these pretty pours bring sophistication, subtlety and a dose of— gasp—fun back to the bar. Best part: On each label, there’s a cocktail and sno-cone recipe. Tasty fun for the whole family? We’re very sweet on that. —Molly Sowers

WINEMAG.COM | 13

thecrush WINE IQ

WHAT’S IN YOUR WINE

Beyond the sulfites, winemakers don’t have to tell you everything that goes into your wine. But often your bottle is packed and processed with a lengthy list of safe-to-drink preservatives, fining agents and even flavorings. As organic farming and biodynamic winemaking take hold of the industry—and with a few producers beginning to list every ingredient—it’s time to take a look at exactly what could be in your wine. Enzymes

tency. Winemakers can choose

Certain enzymes help cull com-

from American or French oak and

pounds from the skin and help

pick specific flavor profiles, from

clear out any impure, microscopic

vanilla and coconut to leather,

crud lefover from fermentation.

smoke and spice.

Sugar

Acids

Sulfur dioxide/Sulfites

When faced with underripe grapes,

Acid is a critical component in wine

Protects and preserves the integ-

winemakers may add sugar to still

that affects microbes, particle sta-

rity of the wine. Sulfur can stop fer-

wines to increase alcohol levels.

bility, color and aging potential.

mentation, if needed, and kills the

Sugar may also be added before

Tartaric acid is prevalent in wine

nasty microbes and bacteria that

bottling to improve mouthfeel and

grapes and is the most common

can harm a wine’s flavor or aroma.

lower astringency. Many regions al-

addition. Malic and lactic acids are

low the practice (known as chap-

also naturally occurring and are often

Potassium Sorbate

talization), but in California sugar

blended with tartaric into low-acid

Like sulfur, potassium sorbate (also

can’t be added to any still wine. The

wine. Citric acid can also be added

used in cheese and yogurt) wards

only time it's allowed in the Golden

before bottling to "lif" and add

off bad bacteria. In sweet wine, it’s

State is during the dosage phase of

brightness to white wines.

ofen used to prevent further fer-

sparkling winemaking—the stage

mentation once bottled.

just before it’s corked.

Tannin powder

Mega Purple

Ofen added to enhance structure

A brand of wine-grape juice con-

and astringency for varietals that

centrate,

are naturally tannin-deficient, or

both color and sugar level—with-

for grapes lacking them due to vin-

out technically adding pure sugar

tage conditions. The powder is of-

(hello, California). It's used in sev-

Yeast

ten a mix of grape seeds and skins,

eral name brand fruit juices. There

Yeast, the key ingredient in convert-

oak, chestnuts and nutgall, which

are similar grape concentrates for

ing grape juice to wine, is a one-cell

are small nut-like swellings on tree

white and rosé wines.

critter that gobbles up sugar and

Mega

Purple

boosts

branch bark.

makes alcohol. Yeast also impacts Oak chips, staves or powders

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Water

These incarnations are far cheaper

Used (where wine laws allow it) to

than barrels and provide for in-

restore water lost to dehydration or

creased surface contact with the

to lower sugar/alcohol levels.

wine, which can help with consis-

aroma, mouthfeel and flavor.

THE FOUR MAIN FINING AGENTS Suspended particles naturally occur when fermenting grapes and aging wine. These particles cause cloudiness and sediment. Winemakers clear wine by adding agents that glom onto these floaters and absorb them. While many of these agents may alarm, know that these chemical sponges are filtered out before bottling.

1. Fish Bladders

OTHER ADDITIVES

Known as isinglass, this pure

Yeast nutrients

form of protein can be used

When yeasts get sluggish and

to pluck out bitter tannins

winemakers don’t want to feed

and binds with haze-inducing

them sugar to boost fermentation,

particles.

they add nutrients. These additives are basically vitamin pills for yeast.

2. Mammal proteins Egg whites and gelatin are

Acid reducers

especially effective in clarifying

When a batch contains

red wines. Casein, a milk protein,

too much acid, minerals like

is used to clarify white and rosé

calcium carbonate come to the

wines.

rescue. Think of them as Tums for wine.

3. Bentonite Clay

—Deborah Grossman

In addition to absorbing, it helps reduce astringency. Mined in Wyoming, bentonite packs the most sponge power of all the clays. It’s common in toothpaste. 4. Plastic PolyVinylPolyPryrolidone, or PVPP, is a workhorse. It eliminates ugly colors and

PHB.CZ/VEER

helps stabilize the wine.

WINEMAG.COM | 15

thecrush Q+ A

5 QUESTIONS FOR RAY WALKER

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n Ray Walker’s recent memoir, The Road to Burgundy, he chronicles how he lef a comfortable life in fnance to try his hand at winemaking in France’s preeminent region. Now with his own label, Maison Ilan, we talk to the 32 year old on the decision, how he owes his newfound life to his wife and why he’s never looked back. Wine Enthusiast: You traded a career for your passion. Did your wife think you were crazy? Ray Walker: My wife made the irrational seem logical, so I felt safe in jumping into the business. She looked me in my eyes and believed in me, even when the words coming out of my mouth must have made me sound like a madman.

M AY B E P E O P L E W E R E J U S T TA K E N A B A C K BY HOW CRAZY I AM. ÔÔL E T Õ S G I V E H I M S O M E R O O M TO D O H I S T H I N G . . .ÕÕ W H O I S N Õ T CHARMED BY T H E FO O L?

Before Burgundy, you almost bought Petite Sirah grapes in California. What stopped you? I could have a crack at some grapes, but within the hour, they rescinded. When I brought it up to my wife, she said, ‘‘What the hell, you don’t know anything about these grapes. Why settle?’’ That’s one of the many times when my wife knocked sense into me. I just wanted a taste of the dream, and at each turn, my wife would say, ‘‘Wake up. Keep on going.’’

You make wine, but why do you call yourself a preservationist? Growing up, California’s vineyards felt accessible. In Burgundy, they’re sacred. It seemed silly to leave my mark on my wines. I’m very handsoI and don’t chase trends. There are so many diIerences between

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

the vineyards of Burgundy, so why not celebrate just that? As a newcomer, did any of the oldschool winemakers give you trouble for your approach? Locally, in Burgundy, I haven’t felt it. Everyone that knows about my wines knows what I’m doing and why I’m doing it. People in the U.S. have commented on my lack of experience when I started out, but besides that, I haven’t heard much. Not that I’d listen. —Joseph Hernandez

COURTESY OF MAISON ILAN

Anyone sneer at you when you, an outsider, arrived to make wine? No. Maybe people were just taken aback by how crazy I am. ‘‘ Let’s give him some room to do his thing...’’ Who isn’t charmed by the fool?

thecrush DINING TREND

SOUTHERN EXPOSURE Want to know what the next big trend in dining will be? Then look to the second cities below the Mason-Dixon line. BY ALIA AKKAM

Avo & Dram

F Roost

Rappahannock

Saison 18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

ried chicken and syrup-soaked wafes are the crux of eatery Sweet Chick in Brooklyn. Diners begin meals at Comstock Saloon in San Francisco with red pepper jelly-dressed chicken liver. At West Hollywood’s The Hart And The Hunter, you can order cheese grits and cornbread-fried catfsh for brunch. Clearly, the South’s gastronomic inHuence extends far beyond the MasonDixon line. Macaroni and cheese dot menus of fne-dining temples and take-out shacks alike, and BBQ joints are opening faster than you can say “ham hock.” Metro capitals like Atlanta have long been epicenters for this gourmet comfort food, but now it’s the second cities of the South—Greenville, South Carolina; Birmingham, Alabama; Richmond, Virginia; and Asheville, North Carolina—where chefs are taking this now ubiquitous, wholly American southern cuisine to new heights. At Richmond’s Rappahannock, executive chef Dylan Fultineer, a vet of Santa Monica’s Hungry Cat and Chicago’s Blackbird, bakes Chesapeake Bay oysters Southern-style with bacon, leeks, sunchokes and toasted breadcrumbs. OMen overlooked for nearby Charleston, Greenville is becoming a culinary powerhouse of its own, thanks to ventures like the Neue Southern Food Truck, which boasts pork meatballs bobbing in Vietnamese rice bowls. Further south, in Birmingham, Johnny’s has an elevated spin on the Southern “meat-and-three” with mouthwatering chipotle BBQ meatloaf and purple hull peas. “A lot of Southern cities are blowing up with great eating scenes.” says Fultineer. “There is camaraderie between chefs and restaurants, with everyone shooting for the common goal of raising the bar.” These restaurants still have to pay rent and make money, but it’s this exchange of ideas, along with a supportive local community—and the general quality of life—that allows chefs to be creative. The biggest pressure down here is one-upping your last culinary triumph. That’s a far diferent reality than in proGt-driven Atlanta or New York. That’s why chef Katie Buttons, a protégé of José Andrés and Jean-Georges, moved from NYC to Asheville, opening her Grst restaurant, Cúrate in 2011. At her forthcoming gastro pub, Nightbell, she’ll whip up a stufed-pastry grilled cheese with sherry-herb-truKe fondue, and a root-beer Hoat with vanilla and Bourbon mousse. “People here are passionate about what they do,” says Buttons. “These are cities that people move to—to create the life they want to live.”

Heritage

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN THE NEW NEW SOUTH RICHMOND Belmont Food Shop Heritage Rappahannock Saison GREENVILLE Dark Corner Distillery Neue Southern Food Truck Nose Dive Roost BIRMINGHAM Avo & Dram Johnny’s Restaurant Vittoria Macelleria ASHEVILLE Admiral Ben’s Tune Up Cúrate The Market Place MG Road Nightbell Seven SowsBourbon & Larder

Belmont Food Shop

Johnny’s Restaurant

Ben’s Tune-Up

MG Road

Seven Sows Bourbon & Larder

The Market Place

Nose Dive

Admiral

The Market Place

Neue Southern Food Truck

Cúrate

Dark Corner Distillery

WINEMAG.COM | 19

thecrush WINE

HOW YOU CAN SAVE ENDANGERED GRAPES There are scores of varieties facing extinction. Want to help? Then start drinking them. Here are the at-risk grapes to pour.

T

here are 1,368 known wine grape varieties. But 80 percent of the world’s wine production comes from 20. Of the remaining vitis vinifera, hundreds are at risk of going way of the dodo. For instance, 155 Mediterranean

endangered varieties are planted on less than 24 acres, according to the French Wine Mosaic Project, one of several institutions whose sole purpose is saving grapes from the abyss. Many grapes on the lengthy endangered list are at-risk for good

reason: They make lousy wine. But several are not just drinkable, but damn delicious and deserve to be tasted. Below are several rarities worth trying. Pour them and you’ll not only expand your palate, you’ll help bring these varieties back from the brink. —Joseph Hernandez

ABOURIOU: A high-tannin, low-acid red grape, it’s planted on 800 acres in southern France and a few acres in California. PRODUCER: Old World Winery (Russian River Valley) ABRUSTINE: So at-risk, researchers are unclear how many actual vines exist of this native Tuscan red grape. PRODUCER: Podere Santa Felicita (Tuscany)

CHARBONO: Grown on less than 250 acres in California, the grape is being revived by several notable producers. Charbono is the same grape as Argentine Bonarda and French Corbeau. PRODUCERS: August Briggs, Bonny Doon, Pacific Star, Robert Foley and Villa Helena ERBALUCE: This ancient variety from Piedmont was first written about in 1606, and it’s grown on 780 acres. It can be made in a number of styles, but seek it out as a passito-style dessert wine. PRODUCER: Luigi Ferrando (Piedmont)

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DAVID MALOSH; STYLING: ADRIENNE ANDERSON

ALTESSE: A white grape found in France’s mountainous Savoie region. PRODUCER: Domaine Nicolas Gonin (Savoie)

thecrush COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

THE RAISIN CANE

Dreamed up by Nick Detrich at New Orleans’s Cane & Table, this cocktail has dried-fruit and almond tones thanks to the oloroso Sherry, while the heavy dash of NOLA-native Herbsaint, an anise liqueur, provides a fun and funky herbal zing.

ABOUT THE BAR Entering the spartan interior of Cane & Table, with its weathered plaster walls and Shakerstyle stools, it's like stepping into a locals-only cafe in Old Havana. Run by the same team behind New Orleans’s game-changing bars Cure and Bellocq, Cane & Table’s focus is rum-centric cocktails, and has a Carribean-

DAVID MALOSH

inflected bar-bite menu to match.

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

MARDI GRAS

THE RAISIN CANE 1½ ounces Banks 5 Island Rum 1½ ounces El Maestro Sierra Oloroso Sherry 1 teaspoon vanilla syrup 2 dashes Angostura bitters 1 dash Legendre Herbsaint 1 orange peel slice

Combine all the ingredients except the orange peel in a mixing tin, add two handfuls of ice and stir 30 times. (Yes, 30.) Strain into a chilled coupe. Twist the orange peel over the drink and gently rub it around the rim of the glass.

WINEMAG.COM | 23

thecrush MARDI GRAS

MARDI GRAS MAVEN

THE QUEEN OF NEW ORLEANS

The life and ongoing good times of Ella Brennan, the Big Easy’s matriarch of all things food and drink.

You met tiki legend Trader Vic, yes? We met him. He walked in the restaurant. We went to San Francisco, and he became my guide and Hew us around California. Tell us some more rum stories. We used to go to Cuba, I think I went four or Gve times. We drank daiquiris at La Floridita. We brought back the rum, the sugar, the limes, even the ice—we always wondered, “Why does it taste so magniGcent? Why aren’t ours as good?” We never Ggured it out.

S

ome might describe Ella Brennan, owner of Brennan’s restaurant empire in New Orleans, as the Forrest Gump of cocktail culture. Brennan, now 87, has seemingly seen it all— including the current cocktail revolution going down in NOLA. —KARA NEWMAN

What’s your earliest cocktail memory? During Prohibition, I had an uncle who would make bathtub gin. I loved putting the cork in the jar when I was little. You were making drinks as a kid? That was my job when people came to visit my parents.

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

What’s your favorite cocktail? Sazerac. But I drink Old-Fashioneds… Don’t dare anyone put water in them! How did your family get into the bar business? My brother [Owen Brennan] bought a bar. My mother was disturbed that it was in the French Quarter! Do you remember when the drink The Hurricane was invented at Pat O’Brien’s? It was during World War II. I was purchasing whiskey for Absinthe House— women couldn’t work on Bourbon Street. I bought a carload of rum and Scotch. We kept the Scotch. Pat bought some of the rum and made it into this successful drink.

NOLA has come a long way from the days when women weren’t allowed to work in bars. What do you think of the current crop of female bartenders? They are wonderful. They teach me a lot. They’ve earned the respect of people. I just think they’re fabulous. It’s not a job anymore—it’s a career. Get Miss Ella’s favorite Old-Fashioned recipe at winemag.com/ brennan

COURTESY OF COMMANDER’S PALACE

BAM! Ella hanging with a young Emeril Lagasse

I DRINK OLDFA S H I O N E D S … D O N ’ T DARE ANYONE PUT W AT E R I N T H E M !

thecrush MARDI GRAS

RECIPE OF THE MONTH

BAYOU IN A BOWL SMOTHERED OKRA & GULF SHRIMP 1

pound (16–20) Gulf shrimp

1

cup diced tasso

1

cup diced onion

1

tablespoon minced garlic

2

tablespoons tomato paste

3

cups ripe diced tomatoes

1

cup tomato sauce

8

cups okra, cut into ½-inch pieces

1

bay leaf

1

tablespoon salt

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Peel and devein the shrimp (after the shell is off, run a knife along the back of the shrimp and remove the vein). Put the shells in a pot and cover with 2 quarts of water, bring to a boil and simmer while prepping the rest of the ingredients. Heat a 6-quart pot (preferably cast iron) over medium heat and add the tasso. Cook until it has started to crisp. Add the onions and cook for 5 minutes, or until the onions have begun to soften. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring constantly so that the tomato paste doesn’t burn. Strain the shrimp shells from the cooking liquid. Reserve all but 1 quart. Mix that quart with the tomatoes, tomato paste, okra and bay leaf. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer for 20–30 minutes, or until the okra is tender. If the stew becomes too thick, add more of your reserved stock. Add in the shrimp, salt and cayenne and cook for another 10 minutes. Season to taste. Serve over steamed rice. Serves 4–6.

PAIR IT 2010 CAVES DUPLESSIS CHABLIS “This wine is on the crisp side, but without being too austere,” says Ian Becker, wine director of The Boxing Room. “The mineral and citrus balance the richness of the okra without overpowering the sweet and delicate flavors of the Gulf shrimp.”

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

BEN FINK; FOOD STYLING: ERIN MCDOWELL; INSET: RITA MAAS; FOOD STYLING: ADRIENNE ANDERSON

Bead tossing, spring breakers and bad beer not your thing? Enjoy the best of the Big Easy on Fat Tuesday (minus the Mardi Gras mess) with this wine-friendly shrimp-and-okra dish from Louisiana-born Justin Simoneaux, head chef at The Boxing Room in San Francisco.

thecrush DESTINATION

CENTRAL LONDON CALLING

You may think Soho and its surrounds are only home to tourist destinations. But tucked within Central City are several spots quietly changing how the world drinks and eats. HereÕs your gourmet guide to its best-kept secrets.

Dean Street Townhouse

Bob Bob Ricard

Bob Bob Ricard

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Indulge in pure decadence at Art Deco mecca Bob Bob Ricard, where each table has a “Press for Champagne” button. Really. Push, and you’re delivered the Champagne and sparkling wine list, Petrossian caviar and traditional Russian-influenced fare, like smoky borsch with beetroot and venison tenderloin tartare. For traditional English pub grub with flair, try Dean Street Townhouse. The must-order: Twice-baked smoked haddock soufflé. Retaining its original Soho sex-shop facade, basement Mexican restaurant La Bodega Negra is the late-night stop for soft-shell crab tacos and tasty Tequila and mezcal cocktails. If you’re feeling homesick for the colonies, head to the nearby Mayfair neighborhood and drop some coin at diner-inspired Automat. It

ANNABELLE KIRKLAND

Eat

Experimental Cocktail Club

The Connaught

CENTRAL LONDON'S MUST-TRYS Automat Bob Bob Ricard

La Bodega Negra

Bourne & Hollingsworth La Bodega Negra The Connaught

boasts the best mac & cheese (cheddar, black truffle) this side of the Atlantic and several solid U.S. producers like Cakebread Cellars and Soter. For the big night out, go to the Sommelier’s Table beneath chef Hélène Darroze’s at The Connaught. Recipient of two Michelin stars, the seasonal tasting menu and pairings (culled from the 6,000-bottle cellar) are life changing.

Dean Street Townhouse Experimental Cocktail Club Mark’s Bar Meat Liquor Sommelier’s Table Terroirs

Meat Liquor

Drink For classic English charm, sip on Bourne & Hollingsworth’s Gardener’s Tea Break cocktail, a cucumber-and-gin tipple served with a cucumber sandwich. Hidden behind an unmarked door in the heart of Chinatown, Experimental Cocktail Club offers herb-and-spice infused drinks like the Stockholm Syndrome, a mix of cumin-and-dill vodka and aquavit. Mark’s Bar features “Early British Libations,” with cocktails dating back to the 16th century. There are also modern takes on old standbys like the mojito-inspired Dragon, made with barrel-aged Pisco, mint, lime juice, sugar and Plymouth Navy-Strength gin. Terroirs offers a worldly selection of organic and biodynamic producers. Try the 2005 Château Musar from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley. —Mariel Reed

Mark's Bar

WINEMAG.COM | 29

viewpoint

BORDEAUX IS BACK Why it’s time to give the world’s stodgiest wine region another chance.

F

or centuries, classified Bordeaux was what the upper crust drank: London diarist Samuel Pepys wrote about drinking “Ho Bryan” (Château HautBrion) in 1663, our own President Thomas Jefferson enjoyed Château Lafite, and Richard Nixon was known to have his glass filled with Château Margaux. More recently, it seems the stuff has become the favored tipple of Internet moguls, hedge fund managers and Chinese billionaires. So why should you care? Simply put, the vast majority of Bordeaux has never been better. Keep in mind that the wines from the 60 producers of red wine originally designated cru classé in 1855 represent a tiny fraction of the world’s biggest wine region (by volume). What’s left after removing the classified growths from consideration—most of those wines have gotten too expensive for regular consumption—is a vast sea of wine, some good, some bad, most somewhere in between. But lately there’s been more good than bad. For starters, most of the wines you’ll find in the market right now are from the excellent, superripe 2009 vintage, the more structured but still-ripe 2010 vintage or the charming 2011 vintage. Second, viticulture and winemaking have improved throughout Bordeaux. Yes, there are still some challenging vintages—2012 and 2013 come to mind— but for the most part, the days of thin, weedy, harshly tannic wines are past. Third, the wines are surprisingly affordable. Search Wine Enthusiast’s online Buying Guide, and you’ll find hundreds of wines from the 2009–2012 vintages rated Very Good or Excellent (87–93 points) for less than $40.

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Finally, because of their generally refreshing acids, balanced use of oak and moderate alcohol levels, the wines are impressively versatile at the table. No, these aren’t reds to serve alongside Dover sole (what red wines are?), but they can ably partner anything from mild poultry to wild game. In a world of wine that’s always focused on the latest and the greatest, it’s worth remembering that even a conservative wine region like Bordeaux changes over time. And now is the time to rediscover it.

3 REASONS TO DRINK BORDEAUX TONIGHT Merlot is the most commonly planted grape variety in Bordeaux, typically making supple, accessible wines that don’t require cellaring. CHÂTEAU CARIGNAN (PREMIÈRES CÔTES DE BORDEAUX): The 2009 is all suppleness and warmth, while the 2010 shows more structure. CHÂTEAU MAISON BLANCHE (MÉDOC): This Merlot-based wine is round and ripe. Superstar oenologist Stéphane Derenoncourt consults. CHÂTEAU DE SOURS (BORDEAUX): Another approachable wine marked by plenty of ripe fruit and finely balanced oak.

Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski bought his first case of Bordeaux for cellaring when Meyney and ChasseSpleen could be had for less than $15 per bottle.

800.356.8466 WINEENTHUSIAST.COM

YOUR GUIDE TO

Whether you’re simply a suds fan or want to be a craf beer baron, making your own brew has never been easier. And since this drinkable art was recently legalized in all 50 states, there’s no better time to give it a go. Your beer adventure starts here. BY

1

You’ll need special homebrewing equipment, like a hydrometer and airlock. The best way to start is to buy a beginner’s ale kit, which has everything you need for your first try, including the ingredients.

2

Clean & Sanitize

3

Boil

The No. 1 reason your homebrew will go bust (read: smell like diaper) is dust, specks of dirt or other particles (like naturally occurring yeast) infiltrated your batch or bottles. So: you need to wash and rinse all your equipment like crazy and sanitize anything that will come into contact with the beer afer boiling.

This may elicit a “duh,” but before firing up the brew kettle to make your wort, read through the entire recipe and have all your ingredients measured and at the ready. Scrambling to add stuff increases the risk of contamination and can lead to overboiling—a one-way ticket to terrible beer. Trust us.

4 Shock & Stir

You need to cool your wort in a hurry (shocking it) before you can add yeast. So prep an ice water bath in your sink as your pot boils. Once cooled, pour the wort into a fermentation bucket. Stir vigorously to aerate it, add the yeast and stir it again .

5

Ferment

6

Add Suds, Bottle, Shelve & Sip

LAUREN BUZZEO

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

B uy A Kit

Once the yeast is added, seal the fermenter and put an airlock into the lid so carbon dioxide can escape as the yeast works its magic and converts the fermentable sugars into alcohol. It should rest, undisturbed, for 7–10 days, then transfer it to a glass carboy for another week or so.

Before bottling, you need to add fermentable sugar so the yeast can create carbon dioxide. Afer bottling, shelve at room temperature in a dark place. (Light is beer’s biggest enemy.) Afer a couple of weeks it’ll be carbonated and ready to pour.

ILLUSTRATION: MICHAEL DELAPORTE

HOME BREWING

Brewing Minus The Mess

136

Like custom-crush facilities for winemaking, DIY beer-making outfts are popping up across the country. Here’s where you can go to batch your own brew.

Podcasts devoted to craf beer

325% Increase in American Homebrewers Association members since 2005

New York

409 Openings of new American breweries and brewpubs in 2012

Bitter & Esters Brooklyn bitterandesters.com

California Brew Bakers Huntington Beach brewbakers1.com

Oregon

Colorado

Minnesota

Florida

Connecticut

You Brew & Pub Portland portlandubrewandpub.com

Do Your Brew Westminster doyourbrew.com

Vine Park Brewing St. Paul vinepark.com

Longneck Brew House Stuart longneckbrewhouse.com

Cork & Brew Southington corkandbrew.com

Pennsylvania Copper Kettle Pittsburgh copperkettlepgh.com

Your Homebrewing Bible

The No. 1 rule to making beer: Use The Complete Joy of Homebrewing, by Charlie Papazian, President of the Brewers Association. It has step-by-step guides and provides the simple-to-understand science and reasoning behind the processes. Originally published in 1984, several craf beer biggies credit the book for helping them launch their empires.

You Could Be Next These founding brewers all began in their kitchens armed with Papazian’s book, a dream and a thirst for really, really good beer. Here’s a few of their brewing tricks.

JIM KOCH

KEN GROSSMAN

SAM CALAGIONE

TOMME ARTHUR

Samuel Adams

Dogfish Head

“Brew what you want to

Founder, Sierra Nevada Brewing Company

“Don’t be afraid to jump

The Lost Abbey and Port Brewing “Treat your yeasts like they

brew and the passion will

“Get your hands dirty,

from extract brewing to

come through. When i first

but keep your

partial-grain brewing. This

are your favorite child (not

began, I knew the ingredients

equipment clean.”

involves a bag of crushed

the red-headed stepchild),

I wanted were harder to find,

barley that you steep like

and your beers will be

but I didn’t want to skimp.”

tea before you boil.”

awesome.”

WINEMAG.COM | 33

the

accidental wine Grown in only a few of the world’s wine regions, dark, idiosyncratic Carmenère has found a comfortable home in Chile’s warm valleys. BY

MICHAEL SCHACHNER P H OTO S

T

D AV I D M A LO S H

wo decades ago, Jean-Michel Boursiquot, a French ampelographer hired to help wineries in Chile’s Maule Valley determine what grape varieties were in their oldest vineyards, dropped a bombshell on his clients. Thousands of acres that the Chileans had long thought were Merlot were actually an obscure variety called Carmenère. “Carmen-what?” the Chileans asked.

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

O

riginally imported from Bordeaux, Carmenère can be green and herbaceous if the grapes aren’t picked fully ripe—hence the uneven reputation of Chilean “Merlot” in the early 1990s. Yet today, Carmenère—known for its deep color, plush tannins and unique, spicy aromas and Havors—is poised to pass Merlot and become Chile’s second most widely planted red variety aMer Cabernet Sauvignon. Many winemakers are working hard to turn it into a signature wine for a country whose global sales hit a plateau in recent years. Given that about 98 percent of the world’s Carmenère exists here, the grape is already inextricably part of Chilean wine, for better or worse. It’s for the better if, like many in the Chilean wine community assert, Carmenère has positive attributes as a varietal red wine or as a component in Cabernet-led blends. Naysayers believe the wines are too loaded with olive and green characteristics to ever draw a serious following. The French were right to eradicate it, they say, and the Chileans are foolish for trying to make Carmenère into something it’ll never be: a world-class varietal wine. Carmenère requires sun-drenched,

THESE 12 EXAMPLES OF CARMENÈRE SHOW THAT

92 

Concha y Toro 2010 Terrunyo Block 27 Entre Cordilleras (Peumo). Mossy, lightly herbal aromas of blackberry and marzipan are attractive. This is rich and racy in the mouth, with vanilla, tobacco, plum and berry favors that fnish long and ride elegantly on a beam of slightly sharp acidity. Drink this fne Carmenère through 2016. Excelsior Wines. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92

Santa Carolina 2009 Herencia (Peumo). Keeping with past performances, Herencia is again one of Chile’s best Carmenères. This is bold, toasty and ripe on the nose, with tobacco and vanilla nuances. The palate is huge but in shape, while toasty, chocolaty Havors, along with herbal plum and berry notes, end chewy and

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

deep. Drink through 2016. Carolina Wine Brands USA. abv: 15% Price: $90

92

Viu Manent 2010 El Incidente (Colchagua Valley). LoMy from the start, this extracted Carmenère pumps out toasty, herbal aromas of smoked meat, leather and black fruits. The palate feels Hush and thick, while Havors of baked blackberry, herbs, spice, mint and pepper fnish with a warm wave of mocha and chewy tannins. Drink through 2017. Baystate Wine & Spirits. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91

Montes 2010 Alpha (Colchagua Valley). Everything about this mid-tier Carmenère seems right. The nose deals black-fruit aromas along with black olive, licorice and herbal notes. The mouth is round, friendly and

textured, with a mix of roasted plum, berry, herb, spice, olive and tomato Havors. On the fnish, it’s balanced. Drink now–2016. TGIC Importers. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91

San Pedro 2010 Tierras Moradas (Maule Valley). Plum, berry, licorice and balsamic aromas are earthy and classy. This feels chunky and heavy, but not ponderous. Flavors of prune, rooty spices, mint and chocolate Gnish with mocha and Gg notes. Enjoy this ripe, full-bodied wine anytime through 2017. Shaw-Ross International Importers. abv: 14% Price: $45

91

Santa Rita 2008 Pehuén (Apalta). With cool, herbal aromas of cola, pine, juniper, Gne oak and savory berry fruits, this is a Gne Carmenère. The palate is full, deep and still

fresh aMer several years in the bottle. Flavors of stewed cherry, baked plum and cassis come with no shortage of savory support, while the Gnish is saucy in taste, with raciness, gravitas and length. Drink through 2018. Palm Bay International. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

90

Errazuriz 2010 Kai (Aconcagua Valley). This absurdly priced Carmenère is always one of Chile’s best, and this vintage is just Gne, with cherry, cassis, graphite, herb and eucalyptus-like green aromas. The palate is chunky and round in feel, with solid acidity and plump, herbal Havors of berry fruits, olive and spice. But what justiGes a $235 price tag? You can be the judge. Vintus LLC. abv: 14.5% Price: $235

Carmenère’s History and Pioneers

THE VARIETYÕS FUTURE IS BRIGHT

90 

Lapostolle 2010 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). Opaque in color and superrich on the nose, it has dominant aromas of earth, leather, baked fruit and spice. It feels lush and chunky, maybe a touch sof, with earthy, naturally herbal favors of dark fruit, plum and chocolate. The fnish is smooth and warming. Terlato Wines International. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

90

Siegel 2012 Single Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). Minty plum and berry aromas are herbal but ripe, with a note of chocolate and black tea. This is lush and layered, with top-end mouthfeel and herbal, foral favors of berry fruits and plum. A smooth, herbal tasting

fnish is the fnale to a well-made, favorful wine. Kysela Père et Fils. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

90

Viña Bisquertt 2010 Ecos de Rulo Single Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). Although this smells a bit fat and earthy, cool, herbal berry aromas as well as coIee and spice make this inviting and easy to like. A fush, jammy palate maintains its pulse, while a mix of spicy black fruits, licorice, espresso and chocolate favors end long and lightly herbal. Drink this cuddly wine sooner rather than later. Prestige Wine Group. abv: 14% Price: $20

89

Undurraga 2012 Sibaris Reserva Especial (Colchagua Valley). Spicy, earthy cherry and

cassis aromas are true to the variety. This is juicy, bright and substantive in feel, with red berry, oak spice and herbal favors. A minty, chocolaty Gnish full of herbs and spices provides for a good ending. Testa Wines Of The World. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

85

Santa Alicia 2012 Reserva (Maipo Valley). Hard spice and minty green aromas heavily shadow the wine’s fruit character. In the mouth, it’s mildly creamy feeling, while the Havors suggest toast, herbs, chocolate and spicy berry fruit. This is a basic but honest representation of Carmenère. Halby Marketing. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $10

Once fairly common in Bordeaux but not replanted there after Europe’s 19th-century phylloxera plague because of its propensity for uneven ripening, Carmenère celebrates its 20th birthday as a named entity in Chilean wine this year. Following Carmenère’s unexpected discovery in Chile, only a few wineries wanted anything to do with the grape. Most felt the name was unheard of outside hardcore wine and agronomy communities (they were correct). They were also a bit chapped to have “lost” all their Merlot, a variety that reached its apex in popularity during the 1990s. Marcelo Retamal was a rookie winemaker at De Martino in the mid ’90s when he received management’s go-ahead to bottle Chile’s first varietally labeled Carmenère, the 1996 Santa Ines. “The vineyard had been planted in 1992 as Merlot, but we harvested it that year as Carmenère,” Retamal says. Tesco, the large U.K.-based supermarket chain, purchased the entire production of that vintage. But the Chilean government, which hadn’t updated its list of approved varieties, blocked the shipment. “They told us we couldn’t sell a wine that didn’t exist,” says Retamal. Shortly thereafer, Carmenère was entered into the books as a permitted variety. Alongside Retamal, I tasted this groundbreaking wine in December, and it was awful. It was dirty, slightly oxidized, leathery and, as Retamal himself said, “intomable,” which means “undrinkable” in Spanish. We then tasted another 10 or so vintages of De Martino Carmenère, noting that the wine went from rustic early on, to dark, extracted and overly tannic in the early 2000s, to a style today that emphasizes lower alcohol levels and more freshness. In general, such a style doesn’t fit what Carmenère inherently wants to be: big, muscular and chunky, with alcohol levels of at least 14.5%. But it’s a style that’s attainable, as evidenced by other modern Carmenères that do the category proud. Alvaro Espinoza, a contemporary of Retamal who bottled Carmenère under the varietal name Grande Vidure (a French synonym for Carmenère) for Viña Carmen in the 1990s, now produces a single-site Carmenère in Alto Maipo under his Antiyal label. It’s a smooth, natural, full-flavored wine with just a touch of sulfites and tartaric acid added for freshness. The wine sees no oak and is fermented in an egg-shaped cement tank. “In 1994, when I made the Grande Vidure for Carmen, I was told by the big guys to shut up,” says Espinoza. “‘You’re hurting the reputation of Chilean Merlot,’ I was told. My feeling was, if people have liked our Merlot when it was really Carmenère, let’s make Carmenère better and promote it.”

WINEMAG.COM | 37

dry growing conditions and minimal lateseason rains so that grapes can ripen well into May (the equivalent of November in the Northern Hemisphere). Also, if soils are too fertile, the vines can overproduce, leading to vegetal aromas and Havors. Carmenère ripens best in Apalta and Marchigue in Colchagua, Peumo in Cachapoal, Huelquén in the Alto Maipo, Pencahue in the Maule Valley and Panquehue in the Aconcagua Valley. “Low yields, along with dry conditions with easy draining soils, are the keys to getting Carmenère that’s ripe, round and not green,” says veteran winemaker Aurelio Montes, who has been working with the grape since the time when everyone thought it was Merlot. “Too much vigor and it’ll be green forever, while the best vineyards are rich in iron and loam; the red color indicates that the ground is getting plenty of air,” he says. Montes’s beliefs are shared by other winemakers who either dabble with or specialize in Carmenère, people like Andrés Caballero at Santa Carolina, Marcelo Retamal at De Martino, Marco Puyo at San Pedro, Francisco Baettig at Errazuriz, Alvaro Espinoza at Antiyal and Mario Geisse at Casa Silva. Baettig, whose high-priced Kai has consistently garnered some of Wine Enthusiast’s highest ratings among varietally labeled Carmenères, adds that vine age is important in harvesting ripe berries. As Chileans embarked on a learning curve to understand the grape’s characteristics and leanings, it has only been in recent vintages that winemakers have been able to work with vineyards in their prime. “There really aren’t any [pure] oldvine Carmenère vineyards,” Baettig says. “Even the oldest places like Apalta and Maule are Geld blends, where the Carmenère is mixed in with other things. “So, the good Carmenère vineyards are at most 10 to 15 years old, and more than almost any other variety, Carmenère needs to come from mature vines to be good.”

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Carmenère at the Table Today’s Chilean Carmenère is infinitely better than the early wines made by the likes of Retamal and Espinoza. It’s also one of Chile’s most foodfriendly red wines. During my recent visit, I met with Andrés Caballero of Santa Carolina, whose Reserva de Familia and Herencia Carmenères regularly rate 90 points and above. We tasted these wines and a number of singlevineyard Carmenères from various spots throughout Chile. Then we tried the wines with a table full of Indian foods—samosas, curried chicken, tamarind sauce, etc. The combinations were superb, the inherent spice and sauciness in the wines playing perfectly off mild spice flavors. “Cabernet Sauvignon has high acidity and hard tannins; it needs meat,” says Caballero. “But with Middle Eastern and Indian food, even some Asian foods like ramen or beef in black pepper sauce, Carmenère is a great pairing,” says Caballero. “The tannins and acidity don’t clash with the spices. It’s one of the best foodand-wine pairings we have.” Afer a week of trying more than 50 Chilean Carmenères, on top of years spent evaluating Chilean Carmenère, I concur. Carmenère definitely isn’t for everyone, but its good qualities—richness, spicy notes, smooth tannins and compatibility with food—make it well worth a try.

WINEMAG.COM | 39

From icy Sweden to tropical Southeast Asia, intrepid vintners are pushing the boundaries of the wine world. Bali Founded by Bagus Rai Budarsa in 1994, Hatten Wines is located near Bali’s arid northeast coast. Indonesia is overwhelmingly Muslim, and since 1990, it has outlawed any new alcohola successful rice-wine business prior to the ban, allowing him to continue making wine. The grapes used are Probolinggo Biru (possibly brought to Indonesia by the Dutch), the French grape Alphonse-Lavallée, and Belgia, a Muscat grape.

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

MANFRED GOTTSCHALK/ALAMY

producing enterprises. But Budarsa had

WINE’S

MOST EXOTIC ADDRESSES

Tahiti

Vin de Tahiti is the world’s only winery built on a coral atoll. Despite its tropical location at 15 degrees south latitude, the Rangiroa atoll, where the winery is based, has a relatively dry climate.

FRED GODEMET/VIN DE TAHITI

Vin de Tahiti makes whites and rosés from ungrafed Carignan and Muscat Hamburg vines, chosen for their ability to tolerate heat. Because there’s no cold-weather dormant season, the vines provide two harvests per year, in May and December.

WINEMAG.COM | 41

Kenya

Kenya, with two wineries, probably holds the record for the closest vineyards to the equator. South Africantrained winemaker James Farquharson runs Rif Valley Winery, whose vineyard is planted at 6,500 feet above sea level, 55 miles northwest of Nairobi. Kenya Wine Agencies Ltd. is the country’s other producer, making Yatta Wines. The Yatta vineyards were planted in October 1992, using cuttings imported from South Africa, including Ruby Cabernet. The first harvest was in 1995.

Tunisia

The Phoenicians likely introduced wine here more than 2,000 years ago. However, production languished under Arab rule afer the 9th century before being resurrected under French control in the late 1800s. Now, Tunisia boasts seven appellations growing mainly southern French varieties like Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault, although the whites and rosés are better to sip while visiting

FRANS LANTING/CORBIS; STOCKFOLIO/ALAMY

the country’s famous beaches.

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Japan Buddhist missionaries introduced grapes here in the 8th century, and in 1196, the local grape Koshu was given its name. The current winemaking industry dates to 1870, with 175odd wineries in 36 of Japan’s 43 prefectures. Notable producers near Mt. Fuji (and Tokyo) include Alps, Château Lumiére, Château Mercian, Grace, Hayashi Noen, Ikeda, Izutsu, Katsunuma, Kitanoro, Kizan, Manns, Obuse, Rubaiyat, Sadoya, Sapporo, Soleil, St. Cousair, Suntory and

JOHN WARBURTON-LEE/DANITA DELIMONT; LUIS MONTMAYOR/GETTY IMAGES

Villa d’Est.

Scotland In the spring of 2011, Scottish food writer Christopher Trotter planted 100 grapevines in the garden of his Upper Largo estate on the southern coast of Fife. His Rondo, Solaris and Siegerrebe vines are hardy enough to survive frigid temperatures. He aims to plant out a 2.4-hectare vineyard and produce his own Chateau Largo rosé this year.

WINEMAG.COM | 43

Vietnam Despite its French colonial heritage and long history of table-grape production in the Mu ˜i Né and Nha Trang regions, wine grapes were introduced to the highlands of southern Vietnam only about 20 years ago. Dalat Beco, a partnership of French viticulturist Daniel Carsol and the Dalat Beverage Company, planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah in 2007.

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Hawaii

Volcano Winery makes “wine” from guava and macadamia nut honey, but also features an estate Pinot Noir. Retired Oahu veterinarian Lynn “Doc” McKinney founded Volcano Winery in 1986 and planted the Symphony grape (a crossing of Grenache Gris and Muscat of Alexandria). Afer a fire destroyed many of the original Symphony vines in 2000, new owner Del Bothof replanted with Maréchal Foch, Chambourcin, Cayuga White and Pinot Noir. Maui’s

NGUYEN DUY PHUONG/SHUTTERSTOCK; IDREAMPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK; AXIOM/DANITA DELIMONT

Winery cultivates Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Syrah and Viognier.

Sweden

In Skåne, the wine-thirsty country’s southernmost province, wine production began in earnest during the mid- to late-1990s. Specially bred cold-resistant varieties like Solaris and Rondo are common, but there’s increasing emphasis on sparkling wines using the traditional varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Visit in the summer, when sightseeing can include golf outings and tours of historic castles. For more incredible wine destinations, visit winemag.com/bestdest.

WINEMAG.COM | 45

Washington’s

RISE OF THE

RHÔNES These trailblazing Washington wineries have made the state into America’s top source of Rhône-style wines. By Paul

I

Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan Photos Richard Duval

n the past decade, interest in Washington’s Rhône varieties has exploded. In addition to Viognier, relatively unknown white wine grapes like Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Picpoul are being commercialized. Red Rhône-style wines, notably Syrahs, but also Grenache, Mourvèdre and numerous blends, have taken the region by storm. The state’s 2012 statistics put Syrah at No. 3 among red wine grapes (behind Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). Grenache and Mourvèdre, meanwhile, have been broken out of the “Other” category for the Grst time. Although the total annual production of Rhône varieties is just a fraction of the state’s 188,000 tons, the market impact is substantial, ampliGed by the vast number of boutiques that make numerous small lots of diIerent wines. Duane Wollmuth, executive director of the Walla Walla Wine Alliance, estimates that over 60 wineries in the region—the epicenter of Syrah production—make at least one Syrah. “Since Cayuse was founded in 1997, Syrah has become the fastest-growing and, in many respects, the most widely recognized and highly rated varietal in the Valley,” Wollmuth says. “While the Walla Walla Valley’s reputation was built upon consistently outstanding Cabernets and Merlots in the 1980s and ’90s, Syrah has become the attention-getter over the past decade,” he says.

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

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K

Vintners (and its sister-label, Charles Smith) has specialized in Syrah and Syrahbased blends since opening in 1999. Up to a dozen smalllot, single-vineyard cuvées are made each year, including the Royal City Syrah, the frst Washington wine awarded a perfect 100-point score by Wine Enthusiast. It might seem that winemaker Charles Smith was taking a leap of faith with Syrah, but he doesn’t see it that way. “When I started back in 1999, there were 296 producers of Bordeaux varietals here in Washington, and just three producers of Syrah,” says Smith. “As a consumer, I know how great the Syrah grape is. I thought it would be more interesting to work with Syrah. “I saw a lot more possibility for Syrah,” he says. “To me, it seemed like it was going to be the most wide canvas to work with.” Along with Smith, the eforts of Frenchborn Christophe Baron have put the spotlight on the region’s Syrahs. His Cayuse winery, founded in 1997, built its reputation on estate-grown, biodynamically farmed Syrahs from a half-dozen estate vineyards.

“Finding different flavors from different vineyards from the same area is pretty difcult—there are only a few places in the world that can do that,” says Baron. Baron’s game-changing idea was to plant his vines in the cobblestone-strewn soils west of Milton-Freewater, Oregon, where only apple orchards had grown. The Walla Walla River once ran through there, and baseball-sized cobbles lie just inches below the soil’s surface. At frst, Baron’s vineyard and one other, belonging to vineyard manager Tom Waliser, were the lone outposts. But now dozens of small plantings are scattered throughout the region, and an application for an American Viticultural Area (AVA)—The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater—is in the works. “There is no recipe at Cayuse,” says Baron. “You taste every tank, every day. You taste and taste and taste—every year is a diIerent vintage. Every vineyard is diIerent. Authenticity and typicity is important.

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

“Finding diIerent favors from diIerent vineyards from the same area is pretty difcult—there are only a few places in the world that can do that,” says Baron. “That tells you that this area here in Walla Walla is very special. In our lifetime, we’ll see hundreds more acres of vineyards planted in this area.” That prediction, made just a few years ago, is proving true. But Columbia Winery winemaker David

Lake (now deceased) and Red Willow Vineyard owner Mike Sauer laid the foundation for Washington Syrah in the mid 1980s. In 1985, they put a few acres in the ground, using cuttings obtained from Joseph Phelps. As far as anyone knows, that was the frst time Syrah had been planted commercially in Washington. Columbia began releasing varietal Syrahs with the 1988 vintage. A decade later, how-

ever, only a handful of others were being made, notably by Doug Gore (at Columbia Crest), Doug McCrea (at McCrea Cellars) and Rusty Figgins (at Glen Fiona). Both Gore and McCrea made their Grst varietal Syrahs in 1994. McCrea’s came from vines planted along the Columbia Gorge in the spring of 1990. He was also sourcing Grenache from the same region—from vines planted in the early 1960s. His style—ripe, rich and seductive— was a Gne counterpoint to the more herbal, earthy Columbia wines. In the winter of 1996, an Arctic blast dropped temperatures in eastern Washington well below zero for days, killing the Grenache vines. Despite the prevailing notion that Washington winters were just too cold, the Syrah survived, proving that Rhône grapes could thrive here. Small Syrah vineyards started going in throughout the Columbia Valley. The surge was driven by winemakers’ curiosity. Figgins had learned his winemaking in Australia, and set up his Glen Fiona winery to focus on Syrahs. Glen Fiona’s Syrahs were the Grst to be labeled with a Walla Walla Valley AVA and to be cofermented with Viognier, “in the spirit of Côte-Rôtie,” said Figgins at the time. Growers cajoled into planting Rhône varieties, like Dick Boushey, owe a debt to the Haas family, founders (with the French owners of Château de Beaucastel) of California’s Tablas Creek winery. Thanks to them, approved, virus-free cuttings of these varieties were available in America. “We knew the vines we wanted to grow when we began our winery almost 25 years ago—Grenache Blanc, Grenache, Syrah, Counoise, Marsanne, Mourvèdre, Viognier and Roussanne,” says Jason Haas. But almost none were available. “Counoise and Grenache Blanc didn’t exist,” Hass says. “Mourvèdre and Grenache had really lousy reputations—suitable for jug wines only. And Roussanne was very suspect—it later turned out that what we thought was California Roussanne was actually Viognier. “So, the only way to go was to bite the bullet and bring in new cuttings.” AMer more than a decade of intense work, certiGed cuttings from French clones were Gnally available. Among Washington’s early buyers were the owners of Alder Ridge,

Sampling Washington Syrah Try these offerings, which range from world-class wines to great values.

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Gramercy Cellars 2011 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). In 2011, the alcohol drops a bit (to 13%) and the fruit comes forward, stepping slightly away from the strongly herbal Havors of the 2010. It’s reHective of the vintage, and perhaps more immediately approachable, without sacriGcing any of the complexity or structure that typiGes Gramercy wines. Strongly aromatic Havors of blackberry, black cherry, cola and licorice are all in play, backed with refreshing minerality. The wine should age beautifully for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $50

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K Vintners 2010 The Beautiful Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Cofermented with 3% Viognier, this Tablas clone Syrah oIers red- and purple-berry Havors, deep and pure. Snappy and focused, it layers in smoke, dust, citrus, blood orange, baking spices and a vein of pure mineral. Beautiful indeed. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $60

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Owen Roe 2011 Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). Sourced from arguably Red Willow’s Gnest block of Syrah, this is superbly balanced and remarkably concentrated for this cool site in a cool vintage. Cassis fruit is streaked with licorice and mocha, showing plenty of new oak inHuence without sacriGcing depth or fruit. Drink soon, or tuck it away for a few more years. Either way, it’s a gem. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

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Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Columbia Valley). If this wine carried a diIerent winery’s name on the label, it would sell for double or triple the price. So it goes in the wine biz. Cool-climate details of earth and herb join the peppery blue fruit, wrapped in sweet brown spices and toasty tannins. There is lovely concentration

and balance, with Rhône-like nuances of meat and pepper. Give this a little extra time and attention, and it will reward you. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $21

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JM Cellars 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). In this new vintage, the principal vineyard source is Boushey, with Stillwater Glling in the last third of the blend. Ripe, meaty and dense with a concentrated mix of blue and black fruits, this Glls out with dark Havors of espresso, cocoa, smoke, licorice and tar. The balance is maintained through a lingering, bakingspiced Gnish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $38

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Amavi Cellars 2011 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from the oldest blocks in the vineyard, this mélange of boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit is dotted with pepper and hints of brine and espresso. Young and compact, but complex and fascinating, this is a wine to tuck away for at least another Gve years. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

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Dunham 2009 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). One of a trio of Lewis vineyard reds, this opens slowly, seeming at Grst a little thin, with herbal accents outshining the fruit. Stick with it, because it evolves nicely in the glass, Glling in the plummy, peppery fruit, and adding barrel notes of clove, licorice and dusty earth. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

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Coyote Canyon 2011 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Tres Cruces Red Wine (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, it’s an immediately appealing wine with notes of coIee, black olive, blueberry and smoked meat. There’s a pleasing texture and richness running from head to tail, with

coIee and chocolate Havors that linger on the Gnish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

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Efestē 2010 Boushey Vineyard Jolie Bouche Syrah (Yakima Valley). The Jolie Bouche is dark and brambly, fully packed with blackberry fruit, baking spices and a dusting of black pepper. The supple tannins carry a streak of graphite and clean earth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

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Watermill 2009 Praying Mantis Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The instantly recognizable label, sporting a bright green praying mantis on a plain brown background, is a quirky choice for a Gne, estate-grown reserve. The fruit reaches blackberry concentration, with stiI, ripe tannins swathed in dark chocolate. Hints of earth and stem fade out through a lingering Gnish. It’s drinking well, but could be cellared for another Gve years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

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Southard 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Previously, this Syrah was sourced completely from Lawrence Vineyard grapes. But here, they are mixed with fruit from StoneTree. It’s a dark, smoky wine, with highlights of licorice around deep cassis fruit Havors. The chewy tannins Gnish with a pleasant streak of pretty cherry fruit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

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Snoqualmie 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Long a strong suit at Snoqualmie, this new vintage does not disappoint. It’s light and lively, with dusky Havors of plum and sweet tomato. Highlights of chocolate and cinnamon are delicately in focus. For the price, it would be hard to Gnd a better Syrah in Washington. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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Beyond Syrah

Try these standout wines made from other Rhône varieties.

Cinsault

out—what cropping level and when to

Cinsault (sometimes spelled Cinsaut)

pick it—but I think it’s the perfect oyster

is generally used as a blending grape in

and seafood wine because it retains its

Washington, but varietal bottlings do

acidity.” Syncline 2012 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc (Yakima Valley). Rich without being thick, fresh through the long and satisfying fnish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

exist. “Our first Cinsault from StoneTree Vineyard was one of the most aromatically seductive wines we’ve ever made,” says Chad Johnson of Dusted Valley. “It

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was so beautiful—like blueberry, floral bubble gum.” Dusted Valley 2011 Stone Tree Vineyard Cinsaut (Wahluke Slope). This rare (72-case) bottling of Cinsault is silky, with dazzling freshness and purity. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $32

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Grenache

Marsanne

The amount of Marsanne remains limited, although some attention-grabbing wines exist. “Marsanne exhibits razor-sharp minmonths afer its fermented to dryness,” says Sean Boyd, winemaker for Rôtie Cellars. “Up until bottling, you really

wines with abundant strawberry notes in

don’t know what you’ve got.” Rôtie Cellars 2012 Northern White (Washington). A racy, textural wine, tangy without turning sour, with a generous foundation of wet stone. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

with notes of white pepper and trufe in cooler locations. “Grenache, for me, is a lot like Pinot Noir in terms of how it pulls out its terroir,” says Jon Meuret, winemaker for Maison Bleue. Maison Bleue 2011 La Montagnette Upland Vineyard Grenache (Snipes Mountain). Complex, vivid and focused, with elegance and delicacy that evolves over time. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

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Grenache Blanc

Plantings are currently limited, but that could be changing. “I think it’s a sleeper grape for us,” says grower Dick Boushey, who has helped pioneer Rhône varieties in the state. “It’s taken me a while to figure it

Most frequently used in white blends, Roussanne remains an under-the-radar variety in the state. “The majority of people visiting the tasting room haven’t even heard of the grape,” says Kit Singh of Lauren Ashton Cellars, who says the variety displays notes of tea, pear and lavender. Lauren Ashton Cellars 2012 Roussanne (Columbia Valley). An elegant, precise wine with a refreshing baseline of wet stone. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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erality that masks all fruit until six-plus

The profile ranges from full-bodied warmer sites to lighter-bodied offerings

Roussanne

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Viognier

Styles of Washington’s most planted Rhône white variety vary from lean, stainless-steel-fermented offerings to full-bodied, oak-aged wines. In the vineyard, says Mike MacMorran of Mark Ryan Winery, “you have to walk that very fine line between retaining those beautiful floral and citrus aromatics, but not waiting until you start

Mourvèdre

Plantings of this variety—Washington’s third most common Rhône red grape— have doubled since 2006, although total acreage remains small. White pepper, meat and herb notes mark many examples.

getting into tropical fruit punch.” William Church 2012 Viognier (Yakima Valley). The lemon and lime, peach and apricot fruit really shines. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $23

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Southern Rhône-Style Blends

“More and more, I love wines that

In terms of reds, Syrah, Grenache and

have a savory aspect, and Mourvèdre

Mourvèdre take the lead. Blueberry and

definitely has that,” says Mantone. Mark Ryan 2010 Crazy Mary Mourvèdre (Red Mountain). Flint, plum, boysenberry and spice accented by light whifs of barnyard, earth and rock. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $48

strawberry fruit and peppery spices are

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common. Whites tend to be full-bodied, with notes of flowers, stone fruit and pear. Blends of Roussanne and Viognier are most common. Force Majeure 2010 Collaboration Series VI (Red Mountain). A spice rack of aromas, with favors of boysenberry and raspberry over crushed rocks. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

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For full reviews of these and other Washington State wines, visit winemag.com/washwines

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Boushey, Coyote Canyon, Elerding, Lawrence and Morrison Lane vineyards. Since then, many others have been added. What makes Syrah so popular in Washington is its versatility. High-scoring Syrahs have come from grapes grown in numerous AVAs: Lake Chelan, Wahluke Slope, Yakima Valley, Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain and Walla Walla. The grape ripens to interesting, though diferent, Havors in cool vintages, like 2011, and warm ones, like 2012. Sometimes cofermented with small percentages of Viognier (as in the northern Rhône), Washington Syrahs oMen show a streak of citrus—a zesty lemon-lime acidity that adds liM and life to the wine.

Syrah ripens to interesting, though different, flavors in cool vintages, like 2011, and warm ones, like 2012.

From certain sites, notably Boushey in the Yakima Valley and the Rocks region in Walla Walla, Syrah takes on intense umami Havors, along with cured meat, liquid rocks, mushroom broth, tightly wound berry fruit, earthy cofee grounds and even darker streaks of espresso, smoke and licorice. Given the wide range of styles possible with Washington Syrah, it helps to know the producer when matching with food. Some fruitier wines from warm locations like the Wahluke Slope will pair much as a rich, ripe Zinfandel from Paso Robles might. Pizza, barbecue, grilled meats and roast fowl are all good options. More complex, robust Syrahs, especially from single vineyards like Boushey, Lewis or Les Collines, complement the savory Havors of roast pork or lamb. Value, diversity, complexity and distinctive Havor proGles make Washington Syrahs especially compelling. But the best, says Smith, is yet to come. “I wish I had an opportunity to work with old vines,” he says. “When we get to that point, we’re going to see nothing but improvement across the board. And in other places, where the dirt has not been turned over yet, we’re going to Gnd great spots. So, we’re just at the beginning.”

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Italy’s Best-Kept Touring

Secret

Le Marche is a microcosm of everything tourists love about Italy—breathtaking landscapes, medieval architecture and terrific wine and food—minus the crowds. BY P H OTO S

S

KERIN O’KEEFE TRACY GRAHAM

andwiched between Emilia Romagna and a sliver of Tuscany to the north, and Abruzzo and Lazio to the south, Le Marche, (pronounced lay MAR-kay) shares the Apennines with Umbria on its west and stretches east to the Adriatic Sea. OMen translated as “the Marches,” this Central Italian region has it all. Pristine beaches and rugged shorelines hug the sapphire-blue Adriatic. Rolling hills lie covered with vines and olive groves. There are well-preserved medieval towns and cultural centers, wonderful cuisine and great wines. What you won’t fnd are the throngs of tourists that descend regularly on Tuscany, situated on the opposite coast, although crowds do show up at the main beaches in peak season.

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Umani Ronchi WINEMAG.COM | 53

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Urbino

Clockwise from right: trufes at Antico Furlo; Fattoria Mancini’s Focara, a rare Pinot Noir; Alberto Melagrana, the chef and sommelier of Antico Furlo in Acqualagna; traditional costumes on display at Albergo San Domenico.

erched on a steep hilltop, Urbino, whose historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site, is Le Marche’s most celebrated city. A cradle of the Renaissance, Urbino rivals even the most famous towns in Tuscany and Umbria for its grandiose architecture, rich history and impressive art collections. Many of Urbino’s elaborate stone buildings were constructed in the mid- to late1400s under the rule of Duke Federico da Montefeltro, one of the 15th century’s most dedicated patrons of the arts. During his reign, Urbino was one of Europe’s greatest cultural centers. VisUrbino rivals even the most famous iting scholars, painttowns in Tuscany and Umbria for ers and poets would its grandiose architecture. stay at Federico’s magnifcent Palazzo Ducale, now home to Le Marche’s national art gallery. Renaissance name-dropping here can bring art historians to their knees. Sandro Botticelli designed the intricate inlaid woodwork decorating the Duke’s private study. Among the masterpieces housed in the gallery are Piero della Francesca’s Flagellation of Christ as well as works by Raphael and Titian (known in Italy as Tiziano Vecellio). But Urbino’s Renaissance connection goes deeper than one palazzo. Leonardo da Vinci planned the 15th-century reconstruction of the city’s original Roman walls. In 1483, Raphael was born here. Visitors to the artist’s home can see a fresco that he painted at age 14. When visiting, stay at Albergo San Domenico. The 15th-century former monastery is ideally situated across from the Palazzo Ducale. For dining, go to Antica Osteria della Stella in the city center for homemade pastas The local wine is the generally simple and like tagliatelle with white trufes. quaffable Colli Pesaresi. Most common is a light, Urbino is just a short ride from Acqualfruity red made predominantly from Sangiovese. agna, which shares the title of Italy’s white In Pesaro, Fattoria Mancini makes wines trufe capital with the town of Alba in Piedwith greater elegance and depth, like its Colli mont. Set inside Acqualagna’s Gola del FurPesaresi Focara, a red made using Pinot Noir lo Nature Reserve, Antico Furlo is celebrated propagated from vines originally planted in the for its trufe-based dishes and other locally area during the Napoleonic administration in the sourced ingredients, including mushrooms early 1800s. from the nearby Apennines. There’s also a Mancini, whose spectacular vineyards hotel on site. overlook the Adriatic, also makes a Colli Pesaresi

Urbino’s Wines

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Roncaglia, a white blend of the native Albanella with Pinot Noir. But, according to Alberto Melagrana, chef and owner of the Antico Furlo restaurant, the best wine to pair with the local white trufe dishes is Verdicchio. “Contrary to popular belief, structured white wines pair better with trufes than reds,” he says. “A full-bodied 2 or 3-year old Verdicchio that’s been aged in casks and has good alcohol content is the best.”

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Jesi

estled between mountains and the sea, Jesi is home to one of Italy’s greatest white wines, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Though there are no vineyards in the city itself, Jesi is the ideal starting point to tour the surrounding wine country. It’s also not too far from the smaller Verdicchio di Matelica denomination. “In the last few years, Verdicchio has received more awards and mentions from the Italian wine guides than any other white wine in Italy,” says Alberto Mazzoni, director of the Istituto Marchigiano di Tutela Vini, the region’s largest growers’ union. During the 1960s, a cheap, cheerful version of Verdicchio was one of Italy’s bestselling white wines both domestically and in major export markets like the U.S. But by the 1970s, quality nosedived as large frms churned out industrial quantities to satisfy demand. Verdicchio’s newfound respect is the result of massive investments in the vineyards and improved winemaking. “In 1983, when I began bottling my production, I cut yields down to half of what the production code stipulates,” says Ampelio Bucci, one of the leaders of Verdicchio’s renaissance. “And instead of planting new vines or international grapes, I decided to work with old Verdicchio vines.” Aged in large Slavonian casks, Bucci’s full-bodied, complex and mineral-driven wines, especially his Riserva, soon caught the attention of wine critics and connoisseurs worldwide. Encouraged, other producers started focusing on quality over quantity. These days, Verdicchio quality has never been better. Besides acting as the gateway to Verdicchio, Jesi’s maze of cobbled streets and ancient buildings are worth a visit. Leave the industrial sprawl below and go directly to the walled medieval center, the birthplace of Frederick II, one of the Middle Age’s most powerful Holy Roman Emperors. The Palazzo Pianetti is a must see, noted for its rich collection of artwork, including those by 16th-century artist Lorenzo Lotto. Jesi also hosts the Enoteca Regionale, which carries more than 400 Marche la-

Beef—it’s what’s for dinner at Infinito. Below, owner Fabio Marchionni wields the pruning shears at Collestefano.

bels, making it an ideal introduction to the region’s dynamic wine scene. Just a short drive away in the seaside town of Senigallia is Uliassi, recipient of two Michelin stars. Chef Mauro Uliassi serves creative interpretations of local seafood spe-

Jesi’s Wines

cialties like smoked spaghetti with clams and grilled cherry tomatoes. If staying in Jesi, the large Federico II has all the modern amenities, while hotel and restaurant L’Infnito oIers more charming digs in wine country.

One of Italy’s premier white wines, Verdicchio

In the Verdicchio di Matelica region, higher

dei Castelli di Jesi features peach and almond

altitudes and a closed valley create a cooler

flavors brightened by crisp acidity. Riservas, aged

microclimate than in the Jesi denomination,

longer prior to release, offer moderate cellaring

yielding wines with intense aromas, brisk acidity

potential, up to several years. Top estates

and marked mineral accents. Collestefano is

include Villa Bucci, Umani Ronchi and Garofoli.

one of the area’s rising stars.

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Conero Riviera

e Marche’s most beautiful beaches are situated inside the stunning Conero Natural Park. Even though these seaside resorts draw crowds in July and August, you’ll have the beaches pretty much to yourself in May, June and September. Some of the more isolated and hard-to-reach beaches are never crowded, even during peak season. One of the most seductive spots along this strip of the Adriatic coast is Portonovo, once a simple fshing village. Located at the foot of Monte Conero, Portonovo’s white pebbly beaches, rocky shorelines and luminous green bay are set against a backdrop of the park’s woods and dense Mediterranean brush. Just between the beach and park are two small salt lakes that attract rare birds and other species that thrive in the pristine reserve. AMer soaking up the sunshine and swimming in the crystal clear waters, take a short walk to the ancient church of Santa Maria di Portonovo. Surrounded by old, twisted olive trees, the church overlooks the bay. Built by Benedictine monks in the 11th century, the perfectly preserved structure is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. For a delicious meal on the beach, try Clandestino, a sushi bar and casual restaurant that’s operated by star chef Moreno Cedroni. His main restaurant in Senigallia has received two Michelin stars. For unique lodgings in a superb setting, stay at Fortino Napoleonico. Located on the beach, the hotel was originally a fort built by the French during the Napoleonic era. It fell into ruin, but was revived as a hotel in 1969 aMer extensive restorations. Have dinner on the terrace overlooking the sea at the excellent onsite restaurant. Mezzavalle and Le Due Sorelle are two nearby destinations. From Portonovo, Mezzavalle is a 15-minute walk along a steep, rugged footpath, making it a haven for sea lovers and hikers looking for unspoiled beaches. Another wild, pristine beach, Le Due Sorelle is accessible only by boat. Heading away from the shore, Monte Conero oIers numerous walking and mountain bike paths of varying levels of diJculty, oIering stunning views of the sparkling sea below.

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Clockwise from lef: Antonio and Georgina Terni of Fattoria Le Terrazze; the bar at historic Fortino Napoleonico; the Fortino’s terrific tagliatelle.

Conero’s Wines

Monte Conero is home to Rosso Conero, a robust

enjoyed in its youth, especially if it hasn’t been

red wine that must be made from a minimum of

aged in wood.

85% Montepulciano and a maximum of 15%

More structured wines from the Conero

Sangiovese. Most producers use exclusively

Riserva DOCG are usually best afer four or five

Montepulciano.

years.

With its fruity sensations of black cherries and raspberries, Rosso Conero is usually best

Two producers to seek out are Moroder and Fattoria Le Terrazze.

I

Ascoli Piceno

n the south of Le Marche, near the region’s border with Abruzzo, Ascoli Piceno is one of Italy’s little-known jewels. The striking city center is made entirely of travertine, an ivory-colored stone that’s been used here since Roman times, frst to construct dwellings and temples, and later, churches, palaces and municipal buildings. Even the pavement tiles in the city’s main square, the Piazza del Popolo, are made of travertine. Any visit to Walking is the Ascoli Piceno should begin here, at the beating heart of the city. best way to Flanked by the imposing visit the city gothic Church of San Francesco, and take in the 13th-century Captain’s Palthe numerous ace and the 16th-century vaultRomanesque ed Merchant’s Lodge, the piazchurches and za seems to glow when the light hits a certain way. medieval Many residents still walk in towers. the square each evening to catch up with neighbors and friends, a custom now abandoned in most Italian cities. Stop in at Cafè Meletti, located in one corner of the square, for pastry and an espresso in the morning or an aperitivo in the evening. Its Liberty-style architecture is a nod to Old World refnement and charm. The recently reopened restaurant on the top foor serves delicious, creative interpretations of traditional cuisine, including olive all’Ascolana—fried olives stuIed with a mixture of meat, Parmesan cheese, vegetables and herbs. This delicacy is made with the Tenera Ascolana olive variety, which, as the name suggests, are tender and feshy. The local olive oils are among the best in Italy. Walking is the best way to visit the city Ascoli Piceno is in the Rosso Piceno denominaand take in the numerous Romanesque tion, which spans 120 towns in four provinces. churches and medieval towers. In Piazza Given the vast territory and the flexible blending Arringo, stop at the Cathedral of Saint Emiregulations (varying amounts of Montepulciano, dio, named aMer the city’s patron saint and, Sangiovese and other varieties), this red wine according to local legend, protector against generally lacks identity and also has variable earthquakes. Inside, marvel at the intricately quality levels. frescoed ceilings and vaulted crypt. One of the estates making good Rosso Piceno Outside of the town center, visit the Mais Le Caniette. Rosso Piceno Superiore hails only latesta Fortress and the Cecco Bridge, as well from the Ascoli province, which local producers as the temple of Sant’Emidio alle Grotte, maintain has the best growing conditions. built into the hillside. If staying in town, stay Yet, the most interesting wines from the at the charming Cento Torri. undulating hills around Ascoli Piceno are white,

Ascoli’s Wines

Clockwise from top: a canine outing; Cento Torri; a street in Ascoli Piceno; Cocci Grifoni’s top rosso.

especially the small production of Offida Pecorino DOCG. Nearly extinct in the early 1980s, the Pecorino grape was saved by local winemaker Guido Cocci Grifoni, who, afer years of experimentation, made his first vintage of 100% Pecorino in 1990. Because of its intense floral aromas of acacia and jasmine, rich white-fruit flavors, creamy texture and mineral notes, more wineries are now producing this fascinating wine, which pairs well with fish and white meats. Top estates include Cocci Grifoni and Ciù Ciù.

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Exploring the wonders of pairing

Pinot Noir and pork.

BY

VIRGINIE BOONE P H OTO S

BEN FINK

The allure of Pinot Noir and pork is more than alliterative. They share a sweet succulence and smoky undertone. Bright in acidity, with medium tannins and a velvety texture, Pinot complements both pork’s lean and fatty cuts. Meanwhile, the wine’s subtle strawberry, cherry and raspberry notes play well with the other-white-meat’s favorite favorings: the sweet, the savory and the tangy. These two tablemates match each other so well, there’s a festival in Sonoma County devoted solely around celebrating this perfect union—aptly called Pigs & Pinot—where top chefs and sommeliers from around the world gather and try to one-up each other with pork-and-Pinot pairings. To help you embrace this tasty wine-and-swine combination, we tapped three chefs from the upcoming festival to share their ultimate pork dish and its ideal partner.

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With Pinot Noir-Braised Dried Cherries, Riz Rouge & Violet Mustard Recipe courtesy Dustin Valette, chef de cuisine, Dry Creek Kitchen, Healdsburg, CA 1

pound bacon, skin off, whole slab

Kosher salt Fresh pepper 1

onion, peeled and diced small

1

fennel bulb, cut into eighths, reserving the fronds for garnish

1

garlic, whole head, cut in half

1

carrot, peeled and cut into eighths

1

bunch fresh thyme

1

tablespoon whole coriander seed

5

cups fresh chicken stock

4

ounces Pinot Noir

1

ounce red wine vinegar

3

ounces dried cherries

2

ounces olive oil

2

cups Riz Rouge rice

1

cup white wine

½

cup toasted marcona almonds

2

pounds pork tenderloin

1

ounce violet mustard

Riz Rouge rice and deglaze with the white wine. Add the remaining 3 quarts of chicken stock slowly and in small increments until the rice has absorbed all the liquid and is tender. Remove the rice from heat and gently stir in the toasted almonds and cooked dried cherries. Reserve and keep warm. Take the pork tenderloin and make a long slit down the center to make a hole inside without cutting through the sides (basically you’re making a sleeve). Take the precooked bacon and cut into 1-inch cubes. Place the bacon inside the slit you just make in the tenderloin. Season with salt and pepper and roast in a pan over medium heat until cooked to about 160˚F. Since the bacon is already cooked, it just needs to be heated through. Once the pork is cooked, reserve in a warm area. Start plating by placing a line of the Riz Rouge in the center of the plate. Slice the cooked tenderloin, placing a couple of slices on top of the Riz Rouge, stacking one by one. Put a couple of artistic dots of the violet mustard on the right side of the plate and sprinkle fleur de sel. Place the fennel fronds on top of the tenderloin and repeat with the remaining three plates. Serves 4. Pair It Rippon 2010 Mature Vine Pinot Noir (Central Otago); $40

Fleur de sel, for garnish

Season the bacon lightly with salt and pepper, and sauté in a large pan until it’s golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Remove the bacon from the pan and place in a deep casserole dish. Preheat an oven to 325˚F. Add half of the onions, as well as the fennel, garlic, carrots, thyme and coriander to the casserole dish. Bring 2 cups of the chicken stock to a boil in a separate pot and pour over the bacon. Wrap with aluminum foil and cook for 1–2 hours, or until the bacon is tender. Once cooked, allow the belly to cool in the liquid overnight, then discard everything but the bacon. In a medium-sized pot, bring the Pinot Noir and red wine vinegar to a boil, add the dried cherries and cook for 5 minutes at low heat. Reserve warm. In a medium-sized pot, add the olive oil and sauté the rest of the diced onion. Once the onions become translucent, add the

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Rippon’s powerful Pinot from some of Central Otago, New Zealand’s oldest vines is tightly textured, expressive in black cherry fruit, cola and brown spices. Its fine tannins will stand up to the bacon and completely complement the dried cherries, with a hit of herb on the finish racing neck and neck against the violet mustard for most-delicious honors.

Bacon-Wrapped Scallops With Creamy Mascarpone Polenta and Warm Roasted Pepper Salad

Recipe courtesy Charlie Palmer, chef and owner, Dry Creek Kitchen 6

sea scallops

6

bacon strips

1

clove garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

3

tablespoons olive oil

2

red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded and cut into thick strips

2½ cups chicken stock ½

teaspoon salt

½

teaspoon piment d’Espelette or paprika

¾ cup instant polenta 3

tablespoons mascarpone

2

tablespoons vegetable oil

½

cup dry white wine

4

large basil leaves, torn

Salt to taste

Wrap a strip of bacon around each scallop. Slide rosemary twigs or bamboo skewers into the scallops to secure the bacon and to make the scallops easier to turn when sautéing. Refrigerate until ready to cook. Toast the garlic in the olive oil until light golden-brown, swirling the pan constantly. Add the peppers and season with salt to taste. Cook just long enough to heat the peppers through, then tip them onto a plate and set aside. Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a medium-sized saucepan. Season with salt and piment d’Espelette. Whisk in the polenta and cook for 10 minutes, whisking constantly. Remove from heat and fold in the mascarpone. Adjust the seasoning. Set aside, covered, until ready to serve. If the polenta cools, it will stiffen up. If this happens, reheat the polenta over low heat as you vigorously whisk in a little more stock to restore the creamy texture. Heat the vegetable oil in a large nonstick sauté pan until smoking. Season the scallops (leave them on the skewers) with salt and pepper. Sear the scallops, and then reduce the heat to medium-high once they’ve begun to color around the edges. Shake the pan gently so the oil gets under the scallops; this helps them sear and color evenly. Flip after 3 minutes and cook for 3 more minutes. Remove the scallops from the pan and keep in a warm place loosely tented with aluminum foil. Pour the wine into the pan and simmer for 1 minute, scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the peppers, and cook until the wine has fully reduced. Remove from heat and toss in the basil. Spoon a pool of polenta onto heated

FOOD STYLING: ERIN MCDOWELL; PROP STYLING: BRIAN HEISER

Bacon Lardon-Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

plates. Lay a skewer of scallops over the polenta and then pull out the skewer. Serve the warm pepper salad on the side. Serves 2. Pair It Soter

Vineyards

2010

Mineral

Springs Ranch Pinot Noir (YamhillCarlton District ); $55

Fennel & Aleppo PepperSpiced Spare Ribs With Saffron-Tomato Stew and Crushed Fingerling Potatoes

Recipe courtesy Louis Maldonado, executive chef, Spoonbar, Healdsburg, CA

The scallops call out for an elegantly structured Pinot from Oregon or the

2

Sonoma Coast. The cooler imprint of

tablespoons toasted and crushed fennel seed

these regions will impart a smattering

1

tablespoon Aleppo pepper

of spicy pepper to the wines, subtly

2

tablespoons toasted and ground coriander

accenting the pepper salad without

3

tablespoons minced shallot

3

tablespoons minced thyme

1

cup diced carrot

4

ounces Red Boat Fish Sauce

4

ounces white wine

6

cups peeled plum tomatoes

1

teaspoon saffron

Combine the fennel seed, Aleppo pepper, coriander, lemon zest and 6 tablespoons of kosher salt. Heavily season the spare ribs and let sit overnight. The next day, preheat an oven to 400˚F. Pull the ribs out early so they can temper, wrap each rack tightly with foil and put into the oven for 2 hours. Remove and loosely open the foil to release the heat. Let the ribs cool to room temperature, and then cut the ribs individually. In a large pot filled with water, add the potatoes, garlic, 2 bay leaves and 4 tablespoons of kosher salt. Bring to a boil and then simmer until the potatoes are tender. Allow the potatoes to cool in the water. Remove and individually smash each potato like a pancake. Set aside. Cut the yellow onions in half. In a very hot cast-iron pan, burn the cut side until very black. In a large saucepot over medium heat, heat the olive oil and add the minced garlic, shallots, thyme, carrot and 3 bay leaves. Sweat for 25 minutes, deglaze with the fish sauce and white wine and reduce until nearly dry (au sec in French). Add the tomatoes, burned onions and 1 cup of water, bring to a boil then reduce to a low simmer. Add the saffron and continue to cook for 1 hour. Constantly check the seasoning and keep adjusting the salt. In a large casserole, lay down the spare ribs and pour the tomato stew over them. Place the potatoes throughout and cover with foil. Bake at 375˚F for 45 minutes. Serve family style. Serves 6. Pair It

overpowering the delicacy of the

Zest of 2 lemons

Rochioli 2011 West Block Pinot Noir (Russian

scallop.

10 tablespoons kosher salt, divided

River Valley); $72

Former

California-based

winemaker Tony Soter makes Pinot in Oregon these days. This one, from his estate vineyard, offers subtle richness and minerality, with scents of spice and sandalwood.

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

3

racks of St. Louis style spare ribs

36 French fingerling potatoes

To match the richness of the ribs and complexity of the saffron-tomato sauce, look for a velvety smooth, seductive Pinot from the Russian River Valley, like

2

cloves garlic

many by Rochioli, Merry Edwards or Kosta Browne.

5

bay leaves, divided

Rochioli’s River Block from the 2011 vintage has the

3

medium-sized yellow onions

appellation’s classic cola spice and mouth-coating

4

tablespoons olive oil

3

tablespoons minced garlic

wild cherry notes, with enough brightness and structure to remain interesting over many years.

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BUYINGGUIDE MARCH

The view of the vineyards from Wettolsheim in Alsace, home to three grand cru sites.

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE 66 ALSACE

+ 90 more reviews online

82 ITALY

+ 92 more reviews online

86 AUSTRIA

+ 78 more reviews online

89 GREECE

+ 5 more reviews online

90 SOUTH AFRICA + 12 more reviews online

92 CHILE

+ 93 more reviews online

95 CALIFORNIA

+ 278 more reviews online

99 WASHINGTON + 185 more reviews online

102 SPIRITS

+ 7 more reviews online

103 BEER

+ 4 more reviews online

ONLINE EXCLUSIVES BOLD PROVENCE

75 reviews from this classic region, including red wines from Bandol and Aix-en-Provence.

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More than 50 reviews of red wines from Central Italy.

EMPIRE STATE OF MIND

Discover a variety of wines from New York state.

WEST COAST CABS AND BLENDS

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WINEMAG.COM | 65

BUYINGGUIDE

ALSACE

acter Hoods the palate. It’s clearly a wine to age, so don’t drink before 2016. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $42

White wine for spring? Come to Alsace.

A

lsace is one of the best sources for deliIf you’re adding to your cellar, buy some 2010s cious, fruity white wines. As this month’s now and enjoy them aMer you have drunk the reviews show, there are dozens of great 2011s, although some of the top-scoring wines examples waiting to be bought and drunk, from the latter vintage will be exceptions to this in a variety of styles. Do you want fne dry Riesgeneral guideline. ling at a good price? Perhaps a sweet selection There’s another wine style from Alsace into enjoy for dessert? Maybe you’re looking for cluded in this month’s Buying Guide: Crémant some of the best Gewurztramind’Alsace. These sparkling wines ers in the world, or a unique style are incredibly popular in France “The 2011 vintage for the great values they typiof Pinot Gris? The answers to all of these needs are found in Alcally represent. Now it’s time has given us sace. for Americans to take notice. wines that are There are many wines from Although Alsace is centersof and ready to stage in this issue’s Buying 2011 reviewed this issue. It drink, with just the Guide, it also includes stunning wasn’t the greatest vintage in Alsace; 2010 and 2009 were betwhites from the Marche region right level of ter, as they were over almost all of Central Italy, as well as selecacidity. ” of France. But the 2011 vintage tions from Austria and Greece. has given us wines that are soM From the New World, check and ready to drink, with just the right level of out reviews of wines from Chile and South Afacidity. rica, plus hundreds of reviews from CaliforThe reviews also demonstrate that white nia, Washington and New York. And, as always, wines from Alsace can age beautifully in cerbe sure to check out our complete database, tain vintages. Wines (especially Rieslings) that with thousands more reviews, at buyingguide. are rated 90 points and above from the excelwinemag.com. lent 2007 vintage are still remarkably youthful. Cheers! —Roger Voss

RIESLING

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Domaine Weinbach 2011 Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). For full review see page 67. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

96

Trimbach 2007 Clos Ste Hune Riesling (Alsace). Clos Ste Hune comes from a small parcel in the Rosacker Grand Cru vineyard. It is a wonderful, ethereal paean to Riesling—crisp while intensely perfumed with aromas of fennel and licorice. It’s dry in style, with elegant citrus Havors and a straight line of steely acidity, but Gnishes with a hint of honey. While delicious now, it’s not quite mature and could continue to improve until 2025. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

95

Domaines Schlumberger 2009 Kessler Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). There is both wonderful bite and density to this great wine. It has a weighty texture full of ripe, rich fruit. At the same time, the wine is bone dry and crisp with acidity. It’ s just beginning to mature, and while enjoyable now, it’s better to wait until 2016. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

95

Trimbach 2007 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling (Alsace). For full review see page 67. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $65

94

Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Ste Catherine Riesling (Alsace). This is a beautifully perfumed wine, that, while rich with fruit, maintains a crisp, steely and tight youthfulness. It’s juicy char-

94

Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Saering Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a perfumed, complex wine that veers between showcasing the freshest fruit Havors and hints of maturity. It’s fresh with berry notes and intense with acidity, but rich in texture as well. This is a wine to age much longer, so don’t drink before 2017. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29

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Domaines Schlumberger 2008 Kitterlé Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). An astonishing wine, this showchases mature Riesling Havors with abundant fruit, a classic petrol character, and a strong, steely texture. It’s structured with tight texture and intense acidity that lingers on the Gnish. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

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René Muré 2010 Clos Saint-Landelin Vorbourg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). So intense and concentrated, this wine epitomizes the essence of Riesling. Steely, tight, very nervy and bone dry, it is packed with Havors of citrus, orange zest, grapefruit and green apple skins. The texture of this young wine is beautifully crisp. Drink from 2016. Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50

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Domaine Albert Mann 2011 Furstentum Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). While still young and fruity, this has the potential to be a complex, long-lived wine. It boasts stone fruit and white Hower aromas, a tight structure and a hint of sweetness. Drink from 2018. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Domaine Charles Baur 2010 Brand Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). The sand and granite soil of the Brand vineyard gives an intensely structured wine that’s tight and steely. It’s rich with apricot and pear Havors made crisp with refreshing acidity. Drink from 2015. Grape News Importing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27

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Domaine Ostertag 2010 Clos Mathis Riesling (Alsace). Full in the mouth, this is a warm style of wine. It has weight, ripeness and fruitiness with abundant apricot and pear Havors. It is enjoyable now although it will certainly age well. Drink until 2022. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $42

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Kuentz-Bas 2011 Pfersigberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a deliciously rich RiesContinued on Page 78

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; California Editor Steve Heimoff and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

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Gramercy Cellars 2010 Lagniappe Syrah (Columbia Valley). Sourced from Red Willow, Olsen and Les Collines, this is the fnest efort yet from Gramercy Cellars and one of the greatest Syrahs ever produced in Washington state. Think Hermitage with brighter fruit. It’s intensely aromatic, dense and seamless, stacked with rich Havors of mixed berries, layers of smoke, earth and herb, and punctuated by citrusy acidity. Highlights of oranges and tangerines sneak into the Gnish, which lingers for an astonishingly long time. Exceptional in every way. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

Joseph Phelps 2011 Quarter Moon Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Credit the cool vintage for this Pinot’s mouthwatering acidity. The wine is rich but pristine with fruit, a testament to Phelps’ superb viticultural practices and attention to detail at the sorting table. It’s dry and crisp, yet rich and delicious, with Havors of strawberry and raspberry jam, rosehip tea and cedar. The tannins give the wine a velvety grip. As good as it is now, it would be a shame not to cellar it. Your window of drinkability begins in 2019 and extends for 15 years afer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $75

ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: Superb 94–97: Excellent 90–93: Very Good 87–89: Good 83–86:

The pinnacle of quality. A great achievement. Highly recommended. Ofen good value; well recommended. Suitable for everyday consumption; ofen good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances. Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. Wine Enthusiast reserves the right to publish any reviews of products submitted to or purchased for our tasting and review program. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission form, which may be downloaded from our Web site. LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

Domaine Weinbach 2011 Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is, quite simply, great Riesling. It has all the subtlety that the grape can produce, as well as a sense of longevity. There’s an intensity of fruit—apples and citrus—that cuts through the texture, leaving a beautiful, lingering afertaste. Still young, drink from 2016. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

Stone The Crows 2011 Three Twins Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Afer a great inaugural 2010 vintage, this is another impressive Cabernet from this winery. The vineyard is in the Pritchard Hill area, and the wine is 95% Cabernet with 5% Petit Verdot. It’s a lush wine that’s rich in black currant, cocoa and plum Havors, enhanced by smoky oak. The wine shows enormous complexity, with layers of minerals and dried herbs that are hard to describe. It has a long life ahead of it, so drink now–2022, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

95

Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Laurence Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Laurence Faller is the family winemaker at Domaine Weinbach, and this wine is a tribute to her skills. It is a wonderful blend of rich fruits, warm spice and tight acidity, with a Gnish that lasts and lasts in the mouth. It is a very Gne wine, designed for aging, and would be best enjoyed afer 2016. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

95

Trimbach 2007 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling (Alsace). One of Trimbach’s top wines, this impressive Riesling, with all its bottle time, is maturing beautifully. It has that petrol character that is typical of aged Riesling, as well as a strong sense of steeliness and intense acidity on the Gnish. It is probably at its peak now, but will drink well until 2018. Esprit du Vin. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $65

WINEMAG.COM | 67

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Cornerstone 2010 The Cornerstone Red Wine (Napa Valley). This wine is massively ripe, with black currant, dark chocolate and anise favors. Cabernet Sauvignon brings a black currant note and tannic power, Cabernet Franc adds a cherried richness, and Merlot lends a soM, feminine touch. The result is noble, but big, thick tannins call for time in the cellar. Consider opening from 2017, although it will go for a decade or two longer than that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $150

Goldschmidt 2008 Game Ranch Single Vineyard Selection PLUS Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This 100% Cabernet is so rich with blackberries, black currants and oak, you might be tempted to drink it now. Don’t. It’s a wine that will develop over many years. The tannins are thick and structured, and the acidity balanced. Begin drinking this beauty in 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $150

94

Hunnicutt 2010 9-3-5 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A worthy followup to the splendid 2008 and 2009 vintages, this 100% Cabernet is a blend of grapes from St. Helena, Rutherford and Oakville. It defnes Napa Cabernet with lush, intricate and complex favors of blackberry jam, cassis liqueur, milk chocolate and caramelized oak that fnish dry and long. The tannins are refned, but thick. This is a wine for the cellar. Start enjoying it aMer 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $125

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Don’t look for this new producer to remain under the radar for long; this is the third successive vintage featuring beautifully craMed, distinctive wines. The Red Mountain fruit has that region’s stony minerality. Immaculate, tart red currant and cherry Havors, still tight and young, are wrapped with lightly toasty notes from barrel aging. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cuvée Arlette (Columbia Valley). Winemaker Kit Singh has tweaked this Right Bank-style blend, but it remains solidly anchored in 49% Merlot and 29% Cabernet Franc, with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Tart, young raspberry and pomegranate fruit Havors are set against vividly crisp mineral notes. Tannins are supple and proportionate and the Havors beautifully deGned. On the Gnish, a delightful detail of carpaccio appears. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

94

Owen Roe 2011 Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). Sourced from what is arguably Red Willow’s Gnest block of Syrah, this is superbly balanced and remarkably concentrated for this cool site from a cool vintage. Cassis fruit is streaked with licorice and mocha, showing plenty of new oak inHuence without sacriGcing depth or fruit. Drink soon or tuck it away for a few more years; either way it’s a gem. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

94

Sante Arcangeli 2012 Split Rail Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). With a pale color and mouthwatering acidity, this delicately structured Pinot goes well beyond its immediate Havors of raspberry tea, pomegranates, persimmons, orange peel, exotic spices and oak to oIer a Burgundian touch of earth and mushrooms. There’s also a Grm, stony minerality on the palate. This gorgeous Pinot was produced in tiny quantities of 300 cases and will drink well over the next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

93

Bella 2010 Rocky Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel (Rockpile). The vintage was a good one for Bella’s Zinfandels, and this one, which contains a splash of Petite Sirah and Carignane, is their best. It is quintessential Sonoma County Zin, dry, yet rich and heady, and Hoods the mouth with ripe raspberries, cherries, red licorice and exotic spices. Production was only 300 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

93

Cornerstone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Ripe, vivacious blackberry, black currant and oak Havors are folded into complex tannins in this dramatic Cabernet Sauvignon. Blended with 10% Merlot, it’s dry, Grm and noble, but severely immature at this stage and will require plenty of bottle age. Give it six more years, at the very least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $80

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Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cuvée Estelle (Columbia Valley). Merlot is the principal grape here, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot Glling out the blend. This is an elegant, sculpted wine, built upon a sturdy foundation of supple, ripe Columbia Valley fruit. Raspberry and cherry favors get a spicy liM from the Petit Verdot, while the Cabernet adds focus and heM to the tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

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Dunham 2010 XVI Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The sixteenth edition of Dunham’s benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon bears a strong scent of new oak—it’s aged in 70% French and 30% American. The wood is dominant, which is not surprising in a wine built for long term aging. Given plenty of time to breathe, bright red fruits, citrusy acids and a lovely mix of toast, caramel and clove accents emerge. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $45

Efestē 2012 Evergreen Riesling (Columbia Valley). Dry and crisply detailed, this delicious, bracing Riesling combines refreshing minerality with delicate yet complex fruit favors of apple, pear and tangerine. It’s full-bodied and drinking beautifully, but has the structure to develop over a decade or more. You decide whether to enjoy it now or tuck it away. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $20

Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Columbia Valley). If this wine carried a more prestigious winery’s name on the label, it would sell for double, even triple the asking price. Cool climate details of earth and herb join the peppery blue fruit notes, wrapped in sweet brown spices and toasty tannins. There is lovely concentration and balance, with Rhône-like nuances of meat and pepper. Give this a little extra time and attention and it will reward you magniGcently. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $21

ONX 2011 Praetorian (Paso Robles). This blend of Tempranillo, Malbec, Grenache and Mourvèdre oIers such generosity of fruit, but manages to Gnish dry and clean. Tannins are grippy in the mouth, but favors of dried currant, leather and black cherry jam burst through. What a great wine to decant for a few hours and serve up with rich beef dishes. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $45

Rodney Strong 2010 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). There’s a thick chocolate and blackberry-jam richness to this Cabernet that makes it delicious already. It’s blended with a little Malbec and Petit Verdot, and boasts good structural integrity and ample grape tannins, while new French oak lends wood tannins and a sweet smokiness. As good as it is now, you may want to lay this wine down for 6–8 years, to let it express even more of a sense of terroir. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $75

Woodward Canyon 2010 Estate Reserve Merlot-Petit Verdot-Cabernet Franc-Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). A blend of estategrown Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a juicy, liquorous wine wrapped up tightly around sweet and tangy blackberry and cherry fruits. The tannins are svelte and the Gnish long, while the barrel aging brings on substantial Havors of cedar, Bourbon and vanilla. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $79

Black Cat 2010 Family Cuvée (Napa Valley). This is a 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from Coombsville. It’s dense with tannins, but they’re very Gnely woven, and the wine has a gentle grace. The Havors of blackberries are pristine and ripe, and accompanied by a new oak smokiness. Good as it is now, it will develop bottle complexity aMer 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $48

Black Cat 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). This Syrah has a Gne, complex structure of tannins and acids, with Hashy black currant and oak Havors. Flavors of grilled meat sprinkled with black pepper lend a proGle that’s characteristically Syrah. Made from 100% Syrah from the winery’s Coombsville vineyard, it will develop bottle complexity over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

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Cornerstone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Everything about this Cabernet argues for cellaring. With a little Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it’s enormously complex, with fruit favors that range from blackberries and cherries to black currants. There’s also a pleasant herbaceousness that suggests sweet green peas. The tannins are signifcant, so let it develop bottle complexity until 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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Delgadillo 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A blend of grapes from St. Helena and Coombsville, this is a balanced combination of warm, ripe fruit and cool-climate acidity. The Havors are ripe with black currants and new French oak. It’s already throwing sediment, but it should reward additional time in the cellar. Give it until at least 2017, although it could still be rocking and rolling in 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $85

Efestē 2010 Big Papa Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The old blocks referenced in this pure Cabernet Sauvignon are sourced from a perfect pantheon of Washington’s Gnest vineyards: Klipsun, Bacchus, Sagemoor, Kiona and Red Willow. The wine has a charming delicacy, fragrant with tobacco and cherry, yet thick on the tongue with black cherry, cassis and cola. It Gnishes balanced, lively and deep. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $54

Efestē 2011 Emmy (Wahluke Slope). Made from 71% Mourvèdre, 16% Grenache and 13% Syrah all aged in neutral French oak, this pops aromatically, with abundant black pepper, rare meat and garrigue. It’s full bodied and richly Havored, with a supple feel. —S.S. abv: 15% Price: $45

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Efestē 2010 Upright Klipsun Vineyard Merlot (Red Mountain). This is the Grst vintage for Upright—100% Klipsun Vineyard and 100% varietal Merlot. Thick and syrupy, it’s a full throttle wine, with deep Havors of berry, cherry and cassis. Red licorice lightly streaks through the back end, and the wine makes a smooth landing on a strip of Bourbon barrel notes. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $39

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Hunnicutt 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). Ripe cherry, blackberry, red currant, cocoa and oak Havors mark this lush Merlot. The grapes hail from the Coombsville region. The structure is just beautiful, a graceful integration of acidity, tannins and alcohol. Drink now–2018. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

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Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Heritage Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This is a big, powerful yet well-mannered Zinfandel, blended with 16% Petite Sirah. The Zinfandel vines average 30 years of age, and it’s classically Dry Creek, with an exotic spiciness and briary, brambly notes of blackberry, raspberry and Dr. Pepper. The tannin-acid balance is just about perfect. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

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Efestē 2012 Feral Evergreen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). The Grst Feral made by new winemaker, Peter Devison, continues a tradition of excellence. Natural yeasts and fermentation in neutral oak, combined with a superb vintage and world class vineyard, equal a gorgeous bottle of wine. Creamy, leesy, textural and deeply imbued with mineral-soaked citrus fruit, Hesh and rind, this ultrarefreshing wine is a joy. Notes of cucumber and melon contribute further complexity through the long Gnish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Proprietor’s Cuvée (Columbia Valley). Lovely aromatics push scents of espresso, cassis, truKe and baker’s chocolate right up front. The wine is polished, Gne-boned and balanced, with taut cranberry and raspberry fruit. It brings in subtle accents of chalk, earth, rock and lead pencil, building to a Grm, beautifully structured Gnish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

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Ochagavia 2011 Racies Nobles Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Crisp, spicy aromas of red fruits matched against oregano, basil and olive notes give this Cabernet a lot of character and points of interest. The palate is tight and well structured, while dark berry, spice, herb and chocolate favors fow onto a toasty, minty, warm and tannic fnish. This is a bit aggressive now; give it two years and drink through 2019. Santa Carolina. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

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Prime 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Coombsville). This is an excellent Cabernet that’s dry, Grmly tannic, and has Gne acidity. It’s a bit less Hashy than the ’09 and ’10, but has better structure, and may well gain traction with six years or longer in the cellar. It’s 100% Cabernet blended from three Coombsville vineyards. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $64

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Simonsig 2011 Redhill Pinotage (Stellenbosch). A decadent blend of ripe berries and rich oak characterizes this wine; sweet smoke and baking spice mingle harmoniously with notes of mashed raspberry and blackberry, accented by hints of hickory-cured bacon and raw cocoa nibs. The medium-weight mouth is structured and bold, with chewy tannins and heady Havors of plum and berry preserves, roasted coIee and sweet licorice. The Gnish is long and dry, and although this would certainly beneGt from 5–10 years of cellaring time, it’s approachable now with decanting. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $36

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ONX 2011 Crux (Paso Robles). This blend is comprised of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon. The GSM combination gives it rich, accessible favors of cherries, raspberries and red currants, while the Cabernet, at just 7% of the blend, brings dark, brooding fruit notes, as well as depth and tannins. This rich wine combines power with elegance. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $45

Rodney Strong 2010 Alexander’s Crown Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This Cabernet is immediately succulent, with smooth tannins, gorgeous layers of oak, and intricate Havors of blackberries, black cherries, plums and mocha. The alcohol is high, giving this 100% Cabernet some heat, but it should pair well with char-broiled steak. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $75

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Viu Manent 2010 El Incidente Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). LoMy from the start, this extracted Carmenère pumps out toasty, herbal aromas of smoked meat, leather and black fruits. The palate feels Hush and thick, while Havors of baked blackberry, herb, spice, mint and pepper Gnish with a warm wave of mocha and chewy tannins. Drink through 2017. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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ONX 2011 Mad Crush (Paso Robles). This is one of ONX’s drier, leaner wines. Blended from Grenache, Tempranillo and Mourvèdre, the raspberry and red currant Havors are grounded with notes of roasted meat, leather and tobacco. It’s a fascinating, elegant wine to drink over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

Santa Rita 2008 Triple C (Maipo Valley). Dry, leafy, herbal aromas come with berry power and spice. Triple C stands for Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon as well as Carmenère. This is a wide load on the palate, with smooth tannins and savory, roasted berry Havors that lead to a Gnish boasting chocolate, leather, spice and baked berry notes. Drink through 2017. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Dunham 2012 Lewis Estate Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Valley). At a medium alcohol percentage, this is a sweeter-than-usual vintage for this Lewis Estate bottling. Rich and full-bodied, with Heshy peach, banana and papaya fruit, its sugar is buoyed by refreshing acidity, and the Havors persist generously through a long, satisfying Gnish. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $20

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Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This is so bold and rich, it could stop a tsunami of barbacue sauce and a herd of galloping babyback ribs. They say the age of the vines is between 90–110 years. This wine is sheer lusciousness, with favors of wild blackberries, cola and plums, along with a blueberry jam and black pepper fnish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Ferrari-Carano 2010 Trésor (Sonoma County). Big-time tannins make this blend of all Gve classic Bordeaux varieties tight in character. Underneath the astringency are intense Havors of blackberries, cherries and currants that are liberally oaked. Dry and reGned, the wine will develop bottle complexity aMer 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $52

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Goldschmidt 2010 Yoeman Vineyard Single Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). French oak inHuence is pronounced in this 100% Cabernet, lending notes of smoky, buttered cinnamon toast. Oak is oIset by a powerful tug of ripe blackberry and black-cherry jam. Oak and fruit court each other, but haven’t yet consummated the deal. With rich, Grm tannins and balanced acidity, it’s an immature wine than needs time in the cellar. It should be best aMer 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $85

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Efestē 2010 Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). The Jolie Bouche is dark and brambly, packed with blackberry fruit, baking spices and a dusting of black pepper. The supple tannins carry a streak of graphite and clean earth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $39

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Efestē 2010 Ceidleigh Syrah (Red Mountain). Pronounced Kay-lee, this is sourced from Red Mountain, hence the graphite and grain in the tannins. Lush cherry, tobacco and earth Havors combine, with a whif of smoke waMing through the wine from start to Gnish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $39

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Fox Run 2011 Riesling 11 Hanging Delta Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Fox Run’s Geology Series is a remarkable study of Finger Lakes terroir and winemaking, and the 11 Riesling is a particularly fantastic result. Inoculated using the pied de cuve method, this semisweet Riesling shows apple and Horal notes. A lush, textured palate is brimming with apricot and peach Havors. It’s a complex wine layered with minerality, fruit and Horal tones, and has an exceptionally long Gnish. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 7.8% Price: $40

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Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Merlot (Columbia Valley). This round, rich and spicy estate-grown Merlot greets you with all the right stuI (and stuJng) from the Grst sniI. Clean berry and cherry fruit, with a light touch of peppery herb, rolls into silky tannins and pretty baking spices. A Gne value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $21

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Glen Carlou 2010 Quartz Stone Single Vineyard Chardonnay (Paarl). Always a ripe and lush selection, this oIers forward aromas of orange oil, pressed yellow Hower, pear Hesh, oaky spice and a touch of honeycomb. Tropical fruit Havors of pineapple, mango and melon lend richness to the palate, but lively acidity keeps the mouthfeel from feeling too round or Habby. Spice and toasted-nut accents linger long on the Gnish. Hess Family Wine Estates. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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Hunnicutt 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Hunnicutt is known as a Cabernet specialist, but they know Chardonnay too, as evidenced by a string of successes since 2008. The 2012 is a rich, rewarding wine. It’s extraordinarily ripe in peach, green apple and tropical fruit Havors. The grapes were sourced from cool Coombsville and warm Rutherford, giving the wine exceptional balance. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

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Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cuvée Mirabelle (Columbia Valley). Grenache and Syrah are the anchors here, with just a splash of Mourvèdre. Lush red fruits, long and balanced, capture a pleasing whif of umami, along with nuances of cured meat, licorice and sea salt. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Longboard 2010 Dakine Vineyard Merlot (Russian River Valley). This Merlot, grown in prime Pinot Noir country in the northwestern Russian River Valley, shows bright black cherry, red currant and mocha Havors. It’s distinguished by its balanced complexity. There’s a mushroom earthiness that adds richness, while the acid-tannin balance is near perfect. A portion of new oak barrels brings a touch of smoke. This is Longboard’s best Merlot since 2006. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

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Les Belles Collines 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe cherry, blackberry and new oak favors mark this gorgeous Cabernet. The tannins are strong but reGned. Blended with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it’s a luxurious, elegant wine for drinking now and over the next eight years. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

Les Belles Collines 2010 Les Sommets Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Enormously ripe blackberry, cherry jam, cassis liqueur and oak Havors mark this Cabernet. The tannins are thick, but complex, giving the impression of a young wine that still needs time in the cellar. Give it until 2017 at the earliest. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $85

ONX 2011 Reckoning (Paso Robles). There’s a crazy mix of grape varieties in this blend— Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Grenache—but each grape brings its own unique voice to form a very complex chorus. While any of them, on its own, might be incomplete, the resulting whole is rich, full-bodied, warming and satisfying. The alcohol is admittedly high, but the wine carries it with style. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $45

R&A Pfaf 2011 Altenberg Reserve St. Laurent (Niederösterreich). There is something subliminally medicinal about these aromas—the ethereal liM of herbal tinctures alloyed with dark plum and a generous dash of white pepper. This is not for beginners looking for easy fruit notes, but rather for those who like to converse with their wine. This layered, compelling and balanced glassful will provide food for thought with its Gnely structured tannins, medium body and bundles of Havor. Palm Bay International. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $44

Santa Carolina 2011 Reserva de Familia Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This Cabernet delivers a complete package at an incredibly attractive price. Aromas of mocha, graphite and vanilla play nicely with core berry scents. Baked berry, vanilla and pastry Havors settle soMly, with mellow tannins. Drink through 2018. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Santa Rita 2008 Pehuén Carmenère (Apalta). With cool, herbal aromas of cola, pine, juniper, Gne oak and savory berry fruits, this is a Gne Carmenère. The palate is full, deep and still fresh aMer several years in the bottle. Flavors of stewed cherry, baked plum and cassis come with no shortage of savory support, while the Gnish is saucy in taste, with raciness, gravitas and length. Drink through 2018. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Silverado 2010 Mt. George Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Cabernet is a guaranteed cellar candidate. It’s enormously rich and extracted, with Havors of blackberries, currants, plums and mocha, but Gnishes Grm, dry and tannic. Give it at least four more years in a cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $56

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Viña el Principal 2008 Memorias (Maipo Valley). Olive and herb aromas suggest juniper along with baked plum and berry. This is a muscular, saturated blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère that ofers roasted, savory, saucy berry favors in front of a toasty, cofee-driven fnish. Drink through 2020. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $28

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Boundary Breaks 2011 No. 198 Reserve Riesling (Finger Lakes). Another winner amidst Boundary Break’s exciting new lineup of wines, the No. 198 Reserve is exuberantly spicy and Horal, with a beautifully concentrated palate full of ripe peach and tangerine Havors. Brisk and bright with citrus acidity, it Gnishes elegantly, with hints of jasmine tea and honey. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 8.9% Price: $25

Ferrari-Carano 2011 Siena Red Wine (Sonoma County). Blended with Sangiovese, Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a big, exuberant wine that’s full bodied and fruity. It oIers ripe Havors of black currants, licorice, mocha and black pepper, with hints of raisins. It’s luscious to drink now. Try with Szechuan beef or grilled pepper steak. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $23

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Walla Walla Vintners 2011 Sangiovese (Columbia Valley). Balance is what typifes all the latest Walla Walla Vintners’s reds. Here, the grape’s natural herbal highlights are linked to well modulated acids and tart rhubarb and berry fruit. Young and full of life and liM, this excellent Sangiovese should continue to improve for up to a decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

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Bella 2010 Lily Hill Estate Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Blended with a little Petite Sirah, this is fruitier than your average Dry Creek Zin, with jammy raspberry and cherry Havors. But it has the variety’s peppery spices and that briary, brambly character that suggests freshly picked summer berries. Great with Szechuan beef. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $40

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Dry Creek Vineyard 2010 The Mariner Meritage (Dry Creek Valley). This is a lovely wine, based on Cabernet Sauvignon, but comprised of all Gve classic Bordeaux varieties. It’s smooth in tannins and soM in acidity, with luxurious black cherry, blueberry, cassis, plum and new oak Havors. Drink now–2018. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Flying Horse Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Oak and ripe fruit combine to make this a Cabernet to drink now and over the next few years. It’s soMly tannic and frankly delicious, with blackberry, cherry, currant and sweet oak Havors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $65

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Ellman Family 2010 Jemma Red Wine (Napa Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon comprises 95% of the blend, along with 5% Merlot. Sourced from the BeckstoIer Georges III vineyard, this wine shows the enormous ripeness and soMness that vineyard is known for, with rich, opulent black cherry jam and mocha Havors, balanced by acidity and tannins. There’s a lot of new oak. Drink now– 2018. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $79

Foursight 2011 Charles Vineyard Clone 05 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Foursight’s 2011 Pinot, from a very cool vintage, is savory, with mushroom and herb alongside a streak of red cherry. Light in color and texture, it’s subtle yet expansive on the palate, with a peppery, juicy Gnish. It’s a wine that can be enjoyed now, but put some away for a couple of years and the seams will come together even better. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $49

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Katherine Goldschmidt 2011 Crazy Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). All the parts are here to make a good Cabernet. Flavors of chocolate, blackberry jam, cassis and smoky oak are framed in rich tannins. But the wine needs a little time to knit together. Should be drinking well by spring 2014. It’s a great value for the price, and easy to fnd with more than 15,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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Nelms Road 2012 Merlot (Washington). This is a Gne bottle of Merlot, released under Woodward Canyon’s second label, Nelms Road. Firm blackberry and cassis fruit Havors anchor a substantial wine that has accents of smoke, licorice, tar and toast. Delicious! —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

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Spier 2010 21 Gables Pinotage (Stellenbosch). This opens with a dense and intensely aromatic nose, boasting forward oak-derived fragrances of vanilla, caramel and sweet spice that are grounded by the black cherry and berry core. Firm tannins and a full structure lend power and grip to the palate, with skin-driven fruit Havors of plum, black cherry and currant. Hints of roasted cocoa nib and charred oak show good staying power on the Gnish, while ample Gnal acidity oIers a slight liM to the close. Drink now–2018. Total Wine & More. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

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Last Light 2012 Derbyshire Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo). With zesty acidity, this Pinot shows all the marks of a wine that wants two or three years in the cellar. Right now, it’s delicately structured, dry and tart, with cranberry, sour cherry candy and ripe tomato Havors. A few years in the cellar will bring out a mushroomy earthiness that will make the wine extremely satisfying. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $34

Peju 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A beautiful Cabernet for drinking now, this has soMly luscious tannins framing Havors of ripe, elegant blackberry, cherry jam and mocha. There’s an enticing herbal richness and the Gnish is sweetly oaky. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

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Spier 2010 Creative Block 5 (Coastal Region). This Bordeaux-style blend, which includes all Gve classic Bordeaux varieties, opens with herbal aromas of forest berry, black-currant leaf and tobacco, all grounded in ripe, fruity tones of blackberry and cassis. The palate is concentrated and dense, with a full yet Grm texture and Havors of black-plum skin, cherry, leather, bittersweet chocolate and anise that carry through to the long Gnish. Total Wine & More. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

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Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Reserve Syrah (Red Mountain). Penetrating aromas of baking spices, cocoa powder, cassis and black cherry, along with a hint of cherry cola, defne this reserve. It shows creamy, mocha-infused Havors that can’t help but appeal. The time in barrel is dominant here, as the fruit, though ripe enough, falls on the lighter side. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Rodney Strong 2010 Brothers Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This wine is 100% Cabernet, sourced from one of the winery’s vineyards in a warm part of Alexander Valley. It’s quite ripe, with Havors of cherry pie, red plum, currants, tobacco, cola and new French oak. The tannins are lush and soM, but the wine will develop for many years. Drink now–2020, at least. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $75

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Three Rivers 2012 Steel Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Named to reHect the unoaked style, with no malolactic fermentation, this hits the mark with good concentration and bright, snappy green apple, kiwi and cucumber Havors. There’s a pleasing push through the palate from the juicy acidity, and the Gnish remains focused and on point. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

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Les Belles Collines 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is an interesting wine for its earthy mushroom and tea favors accenting a backdrop of strawberry jam. In its youth, the wine is dry, tannic and acidic, but it may well be an ager; give it six years to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

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Lawer Family 2012 Three Coins Betsy’s Vineyard Cannon Block Chardonnay (Knights Valley). This Chardonnay is tight and concentrated, with ample acidity and Havors of citrus, peach, apricot and tropical fruit. There’s a hint of minerality, and the Gnish is touched with toast and vanilla. Don’t drink it too cold. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $26

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Muròla 2012 Verdicchio di Matelica. This greets the taster with a heady aromas of yellow spring Howers, as well as whiIs of tropical fruit. The palate delivers intense peach, apricot and citrus Havors accented by notes of mineral and brine. Soilair Selection. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

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Waterstone 2012 Pinot Gris (Napa Valley). Just a touch of French oak gives this 100% Pinot Gris a sof, toasty creaminess. The fruit veers towards mouthwateringly tart Meyer lemons, nectarines and Asian pears. It’s an elegant, versatile wine to pair with many diIerent kinds of food. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Centanni Giacomo 2012 Ofda Pecorino. Here’s a pert Pecorino, with bright citrus and tropical fruit sensations of lemon, tangerine and pineapple. A subtle note of Hinty mineral on the close jazzes this up a bit, but overall this is a simple and enjoyable wine to enjoy with everyday fare. Jonathan Zeiger. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

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Nodland Cellars 2009 Bad Attitude Red Wine (Walla Walla Valley). It’s tough to Gnd a Walla Walla wine at this price with this much concentration and power. In the mouth it has a plush, soM appeal, with a lush mix of fruits and generous barrel Havors of chocolate and baking spices. It was aged for two years in a mix of new and used French and American oak. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $15

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Murphy-Goode 2012 Pinot Noir (California). It’s nice to see veteran winery Murphy-Goode craM its most successful Pinot Noir in at least 15 years. Dry and polished, it’s ready to drink now. The palate boasts a soM, silky texture and delicious cranberry and raspberry Havors. With production of 49,000 cases, it’s easy to Gnd. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Centanni Giacomo 2012 Rosso di Forca (Rosso Piceno). A blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Montelpulciano, this oIers berry and mocha aromas that come across round and ripe. Raspberry and sour cherry Havors are layered with chocolate and vanilla, ending quick and clean. Not for ageing; drink soon. Jonathan Zeiger. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Mancura 2011 Guardián Reserva Carignan (Maule Valley). Hard spice, fresh-cut oak and dark berry aromas make for a serious, stout bouquet. This is bright and lively in the mouth, with mouthGlling tannins and Havors of boysenberry and vanilla. A quick, slightly hot Gnish is aggressive but sturdy. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

BEST BUYS

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Santa Carolina 2013 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Focused aromas of lime and green herbs are fresh and properly parceled. This shows nice acidity and punch, along with green fruit and mild bell-pepper favors. A long, dry, peppery fnish is tasty, like the rest of the wine. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

BEST BUYS

BEST BUYS

KWV 2011 Classic Collection Pinotage (Western Cape). A solid and well-made selection, this ofers a wide array of characteristics, ranging from ripe fruit tones of strawberry, plum and wild berry to earthy accents of forest foor, menthol and Thin Mint. Juicy berry favors unfold in the medium-weight mouth, framed by medium tannins that provide a crushed-satin texture. Hints of milk chocolate and toasted oak dust the lingering close. KWV Int’l. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

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Mandolin 2012 Chardonnay (Monterey). This is your basic California Chardonnay with oak, orange, Meyer lemon and papaya Havors. Produced without malolactic fermentation, the palate is vibrant with acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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Mandolin 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). For this everyday price, you’ll get a delicate, lightbodied, dry wine, with bright acidity and subtle cherry and tobacco Havors. Despite the county-wide appellation, the grapes were sourced from vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

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Charles & Charles 2012 Cabernet SauvignonSyrah (Columbia Valley). Charles Smith and Charles Bieler have grabbed a tiger by the tail, ramping up their brand while keeping quality high. This blend perfectly matches two shining stars in the pantheon of Washington grapes, delivering a tasty, accessible, lightly leafy wine, with sassy berry fruit front and center. Broad, open and delicious. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $12

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Beach Kite 2012 Pinot Noir (Central Valley). Fresh, minerally red-fruit aromas set up a light but good palate. Modest oak and red fruit Havors are earthy and a bit warm, while the Gnish is easy, clean and fresh. For $7, there’s almost nothing to take issue with. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $7

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Gnarly Head 2011 Authentic Red (Lodi). This is a rich, soM, decadent red, with favors of dark chocolate, juicy red fruit and a hint of leather. Made from Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec, Petite Sirah and a few other red varieties, this is a wine that will delight many. Stock up. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

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KWV 2011 Classic Collection Chardonnay (Western Cape). An attractive chalky accent graces the pure fruit aromas of white peach, watermelon rind and Grm pear. Lightweight and clean, the palate boasts additional Havors of orange and green pear, which lend a refreshing feel to the wine. The mouthwatering Gnish oIers a subtle hint of fynbos. KWV Int’l. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

Viña Requingua 2011 Puerto Viejo Single Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir (Maule Valley). Basic cherry aromas are fresh but scratchy. A spunky palate carries buttery, fatty oak Havors and generic red-berry fruit. Vanilla and buttery notes play oI modest redfruit leMovers on the Gnish. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

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BUYINGGUIDE ling that’s so ripe and full in the mouth, but dry in style. It has swathes of fruitiness, a sense of power and intense acidity. For such a complex wine it is surprisingly ready to drink. But waiting would be better, so hold out until 2016. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

of aged Riesling. It still shows a steely mineral quality contrasted with a complex mix of almonds, herbs, spice and honey. It’s ripe, full bodied and totally ready to drink now. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27

Domaine François Schmitt 2010 Paradis Pfingsberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a grand, complex wine, full of ripe apple, dried apricots and pear skins. It is just beginning to hint at more mature, complex favors. With great acidity that cuts right through the palate, this serious, dense wine will age well. Drink until 2022. Riahi Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

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Domaine Marcel Deiss 2011 Riesling (Alsace). Here is a wine that is slowly developing the most beautiful Havors. It is so perfumed with a waM of white Howers that translates onto the palate. It’s balanced by a frm, steely character and layer upon layer of acidity. Age this wine and don’t drink before 2017. Angel’s Share Wine Imports, LLC. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Domaine Ostertag 2010 Heissenberg Riesling (Alsace). This is a rich and round wine, full in the mouth with a youthful palate. There is a ripe, creamy texture full of apple and orange Havors that are balanced with an edgy, steely character. This promises good aging so drink until 2022. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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Domaine Pfister 2009 Engelberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Round, rich and maturing well, this is a complex, perfumed, honeyed wine. The apple and quince fruits are now gaining secondary notes of almonds and green herbs, lending elegance and grace. This is a wine that will improve further,so drink until 2020. Glass stopper Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $49

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Jean-Baptiste Adam 2011 Kaefferkopf Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes Riesling (Alsace). Old vines and a Grand Cru vineyard have produced an impressive wine. It is bone dry and very crisp, but also has swathes of dense fruit and texture. It’s very mineral and steely in style with youthful acidity and pink grapefruit Havors, but this is a wine to age. Drink from 2016. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $43

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Rieflé 2009 Steinert Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is an elegant wine that’s Gnely balanced with acidity and a chalky, steely texture. The wine is delicate, fresh and very perfumed. The acidity on the Gnish lends a highly-strung, tense aMertaste. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

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Sipp Mack 2008 Rosacker Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Now mature, this is Gne example

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Willm 2011 Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). With great intensity and structure, this is a wine that’s all about texture and potential. It’s expressive with white fruits and perfume, but there’s a richness that’s still to come. Drink from 2016 and see how the minerality and acidity will come into balance. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2010 Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a rich and full-Havored wine that still has plenty of aging ahead of it. It has a very Horal character that is followed by green fruit and spice, and sustained by a tight, steely texture. Drink from 2016. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28ne

Dirler-Cadé 2008 Belzbrunnen Riesling (Alsace). The wannabe Grand Cru of Belzbrunnen has produced this marvellously mature wine. It’s fully ripe and shows its perfumed Havors strongly. The acidity is still very present, giving a tight presence to this impressive wine. T. Edward Wines Ltd. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 Domaine Albert Mann 2011 Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a very mineral and structured wine. Strong citrus and white peach Havors are accompanied by a hint of toast, along with brisk acidity and a steely texture. It’s a complex combination that promises aging. Drink from 2018. WeygandtMetzler. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Domaine Charles Baur 2011 Cuvée Charles Riesling (Alsace). An aromatic wine with great depth, this is complex and concentrated. It brings out a great tangy, zesty, steely character that has freshness as well as richness in equal measure. White fruits and red currants leave a crisp, taut aMertaste. Grape News Importing. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

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Joseph Cattin 2011 Hatschbourg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Perfumed, and still quite youthful, this is a wine with potential both from its texture and its acidity. There is a strongly chalky, mineral element that lends structure to the aromatic, crisp white fruits. On the Gnish, the wine has a cool, elegant character. T. Edward Wines Ltd. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

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Sipp Mack 2010 Rosacker Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Developing well already, this is a textured, steely, very mineral wine that has also has

rich stone fruits that give the wine weight and Havor density. Apples and fennel lend freshness and spice. It should age longer, so wait to drink until 2015. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27

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Bott Frères 2009 Réserve Personnelle Riesling (Alsace). The Réserve Personnelle line from Bott Frères decidedly greater intensity than the Tradition range. This Riesling exhibits great fruitiness allied with a very mineral structure and tight acidity. The wine has a future, so drink now and until 2019. Esquin Imports. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

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Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2011 Praelatenberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). A serious wine that needs aging, this is full and ripe while also having a steely edge to it. Very perfumed, Horal and strongly textured, this is an impressive wine that does need extended aging. Drink from 2016. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

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Domaine Ostertag 2011 Vignoble d’E Riesling (Alsace). From vines around the village of EpGg (“E”), this is a wonderfully pure wine that’s fragrant and crisp. It has apple and citrus Havors lightly blessed by honey. Acidity cuts right through the fruitiness, giving the wine a tight and steely aMertaste. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. EditorsÕ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27

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Domaine Ostertag 2010 Fronholz Riesling (Alsace). This single vineyard wine has a Gne and fruity character that also has great intensity and fragrance. With a tight and taut texture, the wine is very straight, hinting at some toastiness. Drink until 2020. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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Domaine Pfister 2011 Tradition Riesling (Alsace). This is a delicate, deliciously fragrant Riesling with just the freshest of fruits. Lemon and bright zest notes leave the palate totally refreshed. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

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Gustave Lorentz 2010 Burg Riesling (Alsace). This is a beautifully perfumed wine that’s fragrant with white spring blossoms and Havored with bright fruit Havors. The palate has remarkable structure with intense acidity that lends zest and zing, and a Gne, lively feeling on the Gnish. Drink until 2020. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

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Hubert Meyer 2011 Winzenberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Not quite dry, this is an impressively rich wine. It has a strong mineral element that brings out the currant Havors and intense acidity. This is a wine that is still developing, oIering an impressive array of Havors while still needing time. Drink from

2015. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

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Léon Manbach 2010 Frankstein Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Crisp and very dry, this is a Horal wine with pure citrus Havors and some lively acidity. It is just turning towards maturity and away from its primary fruitiness. Drink now and until 2018. Astor Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

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Trimbach 2010 Riesling (Alsace). This is a fully mature wine with an attractive mix of fresh acidity and intense perfumes. Bright and crisp on the palate, this textured wine fnishes with white currant Havor. This is ready to drink now. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

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Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2010 Exception Riesling (Alsace). This is a ripe, delicately tropical and fruity wine with rich texture. It is smooth, rounded on the palate, but accompanied by a shot of acidity. The lemon aMertaste hints at a more steely character. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

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Hubert Meyer 2010 Riesling (Alsace). Already showing some maturity, this is a fnely perfumed wine, its fruitiness tempered by secondary aromas and Havors that bring out herbs and an edge of steel. The aMertaste with its juicy acidity, is totally refreshing. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

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Wunsch & Mann 2008 Hengst Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). A wine that is mature already, this Grand Cru has some weight and richness. There is a perfumed character and Havors of white fruits. The wine has intense acidity that gives it a steely, tight character on the Gnish. Drink now. Vintage Wine Marketing . —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

GEWURZTRAMINER

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Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Laurence Gewurztraminer (Alsace). For full review see page 67. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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wine that is also Gnely balanced. It’s sophisticated as well as rich, with spice and lychee Havors liMed by a crisp edge of acidity. It’s complex in texture and should age well. Drink from 2015. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $31

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René Muré 2011 Clos Saint-Landelin Vorbourg Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is a very Gne wine with sweetness tempered with a great sense of structure and concentration. Lychees dominate the fruit proGle but are supplemented with pineapple and pomelo Havors that are sprinkled with pepper. It is rich and full in the mouth. It needs some more time to age, so drink from 2016. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50

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Willm 2011 Clos Gaensbroennel Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). From a parcel within the Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru, this is a structured, serious Gewuztraminer. It has weight as well as sweetness, but it’s the potential and ageability that is so impressive. Spice and gingerbread notes, as well as Gne acidity, lend complexity to the honeyed, yellow fruits. Drink

Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Théo Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is a remarkably spicy

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BUYINGGUIDE from 2016. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

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Dirler-Cadé 2007 Kessler Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is sugary sweet with a rich spice-cake character, delicate acidity and a full, comfortable style. It’s an opulent but balanced wine for dessert with a pleasantly astringent, tight aMertaste. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Domaine Albert Mann 2010 Furstentum Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is a fnely balanced, ripe wine. It is medium sweet and ripe with fruit, but counterpointed with taut structure and acidity. It’s ready to drink, but will be better with some aging. Drink until 2020. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Joseph Cattin 2011 Hatschbourg Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Dense and opulently ripe, this is a hugely spicy wine. There is a dry edge to this otherwise sweet wine, bringing out favors of almonds and bright acidity. This is a wine to age, so drink from 2014. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2011 Furstentum Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Although the sweetness is not indicated on the label, this is a medium-dry wine, edging towards the sweeter end. It has intense spice, intense perfume, and favors of rosewater and tropical fruits. It should age well, so drink until 2019. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28

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Domaine Albert Mann 2010 Steingrubler Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). There is no mistaking the grape variety of this rich, medium-sweet wine. It has rosewater and lychee fruit favors, along with a touch of vanilla and acidity. It is also a powerful, concentrated wine that will age, so drink now and until 2020. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Domaine Gresser 2011 Kritt Gewurztraminer (Alsace). From the stony Kritt vineyard, this is a concentrated, youthful wine. It combines fresh acidity with fruity richness with a dry, frm character. It’s an impressive wine and certainly appropriate for aging further. Drink from 2015. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Klipfel 2009 Clos Zisser Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Certainly sweet, this is a rich wine that is maturing well. It has weight and spice and a soM, opulent texture. It’s sourced from grapes grown on the steep slopes above the city of Barr. Drink now and until 2018. Wein-Bauer Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

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Domaine Charles Baur 2011 Pfersigberg Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is a sweet, very perfumed wine with pleasant candy favors. Rich rosewater and spice notes add complexity, and chalk soils lend a crisp edge that cuts into the opulent character of the wine. It could age, not for long, so drink until 2018. Grape News Importing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $28

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Domaines Schlumberger 2011 Les Princes Abbés Gewurztraminer (Alsace). With its oI dry character and richly spiced fruit, this is a wine with some weight and density. There is a good synergy between the tropical fruit and the dry spiciness. It is maturing well, and will be ready to drink at the end of 2014. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Domaine François Schmitt 2012 Cuvée Marie-France Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This wine is all perfume, an astonishing medley of sweet fruits, with lychees dominating. It is totally over the top, but have fun with it now. It’s not likely to age. Riahi Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

wine that’s warm and rich due to the ripening abilities of the Spiegel vineyard. It is spiced, concentrated and full of a smoky character that contrasts with its fruitiness. It’s ready to drink now, although it will certainly age well. Drink until 2019. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

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Rieflé 2010 Steinert Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a textured wine with ripe and perfumed fruitiness. Honeyed in style and medium-sweet on the palate, it’s a complex, rich wine that’s ready to drink now, but could also improve with age. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $28

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Bott Frères 2009 Gloeckelberg Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). While this wine does have sweetness, its great character comes from its structure and spiciness. It is rich, full in the mouth, ripe and concentrated. Even at four years old, it is youthful and closed still, and needs some time in the cellar. Drink from 2015. Corkscrew Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

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Frédéric Mallo 2010 Cuvée Saint-Jacques Gewurztraminer (Alsace). With up-front spiciness, this is an attractive, light and fragrant wine. There is no complexity, just pleasant oI-favors of honey and lychees. Drink now. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 Trimbach 2010 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Intensely rich, this wine is packed with favors of spice, gingerbread and lychees. It has a full, rounded character with an intense spiciness that is anchored to a more structured texture. Drink now and until 2018. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

PINOT GRIS

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Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Ste Catherine Pinot Gris (Alsace). Characteristically perfumed, this Pinot Gris is full bodied with a richness of texture. It is complex on the palate with notes of nuts, spice and an edge of citrus fruit. Age this wine and don’t drink before 2016. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

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Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Kessler Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). This wine is medium sweet in style with a rich, complex character. It has notes of spice and honey that accent ripe peach and apricot favors. The richness of the wine comes from it’s dense texture. It is ready to drink now, but will also age well. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Domaines Schlumberger 2007 Spiegel Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a medium-sweet

Joseph Cattin 2011 Hatschbourg Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a full, perfumed wine that’s medium sweet in Havor. It is rich in spice, packed with honey and lychees, and well balanced with light acidity. The wine has an opulence and a warming aMertaste. Drink until 2022. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2011 Schlossberg Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a rich, opulent wine with ripe lychee Havors. Forward and spicy, it is showing its Hashy youth at the moment. While it will always be ripe in style, as it develops, it will become more sophisticated and complex. Drink until 2022. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28

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Kuentz-Bas 2011 Trois Châteaux Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a rich wine that has Havors of spice, apricot and almond, along with a touch of honey. Rich and full on the palate, it’s a meal in itself, but Gnely balanced with intense fruitiness and light acidity. Drink now. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Rieflé 2011 Côte de Rouffach Pinot Gris (Alsace). This rich, boldy alcoholic wine has a pepper character that dominates fragrant fruit and spice notes. It should age well, so drink until 2020. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $24

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Trimbach 2010 Réserve Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a rich, full wine that is spiced but retains remarkable freshness. Crisp citrus and acidity gives it a Gne sweet-and-sour character that min-

gles with favors of warm apricot and lychee fruits. Drink now. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

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Wolfberger 2008 Rangen Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a sweet Pinot Gris that is honeyed and very rich. Light spice notes are buoyed by explosive apricot and pineapple favors, yielding a wine that’s great for capping of a meal. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $32

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Bott Frères 2009 Réserve Personnelle Pinot Gris (Alsace). On the sweet side, this is a sof, fruity, perfumed wine packed with favors of baked apples, red currants and spiced pears. Bright acidity gives it a lif on the Gnish. It is now ready to drink. Esquin Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

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Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2011 Exception Pinot Gris (Alsace). There is an attractive spiciness here, yielding a wine that is warm and rich. It has favors of tropical fruits, lychees and rosewater. It’s full bodied, concentrated and dense in texture, but maintains a freshness through the Gnish. Drink now. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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Domaine Pfister 2011 Tradition Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a light, fruity wine that’s ripe with perfumed quince and tropical fruit favors. The palate is satisfyingly balanced with tight, bright acidity. This is wine that is not for aging, and ready to drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

LATE-HARVEST WINES

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René Muré 2007 Clos Saint Landelain Vorbourg Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Although certainly sweet, this wine is much more than that. Alongside the honey and syrup favors are intensely bright pineapple favors and lively acidity. It’s the balance of this wine that is so impressive, with all the elements properly in place. Drink now and until 2020. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $57/500 ml

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Rieflé 2011 Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru Sélection de Grains Nobles Riesling (Alsace). This is a very young wine with a long life ahead of it. It’s the ultimate Alsace combination of botrytis and Riesling. Brisk acidity and steely structure combine with favors of ripe honey and dried apricots to yield an impressive wine. Drink from 2016. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45/500 ml

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Rieflé 2011 Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Hugely perfumed, this is a ripe, very rich wine with stacks

of Havor piled upon each other. It’s a naturally opulent wine, that’s sweet with tropical fruits and honey in equal measure. It is very ready to drink, but will also age well, so drink until 2021. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Rieflé 2011 Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives Pinot Gris (Alsace). Gold in color and unctuously sweet, this is a dense wine. The sweetness is cut with a dry edge and some fresh acidity. It tastes delicious now with Havors of wild honey and apricot skins, but it will certainly age well. Drink until 2024. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Trimbach 2007 Vendanges Tardives Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Sweet and rich, this is a wine that combines honey with a touch of toast and smokiness. The mid palate is Glled with apricot and fresh lemon Havors. There is a Gne acidity on the Gnish that gives a delicious liM. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2008 Sélection de Grains Nobles Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Now gold in color, this is an opulent, Gnely made wine. With acidity transmuted into a memory of fresh fruit, it shows hints of its maturity. Honey and the rich texture dominate the palate. Drink now and until 2020. Vigneron Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $34/500 ml

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Rieflé 2010 Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives Pinot Gris (Alsace). Richly sweet, this is a wine that has traded primary fruitiness with deliciously balanced honey Havor and lively citrus acidity. It’s a wine that has richness, intense Havor and the ability to age further. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Willm 2007 Sélection de Grains Nobles Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The ultimate in spice and sweetness, this unctuous, full-bodied wine has developed a beautifully, smooth, honeyed texture that envelops and balms the palate. Yellow fruits are delicate in background, along with a touch of acidity. It’s a wine to drink now. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $33/500 ml

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Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2009 Sélection de Grains Nobles Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Unctuous texture is the telltale sign of quality in a rich, sweet, botrytized wine. This wine has traded the spice of a Gewurztraminer with a palate full of honey and delicate lemon acidity. It is a Gne, complex wine that is developing well. Drink until 2020. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $53/500 ml

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Joseph Cattin 2009 Vendanges Tardive Pinot Gris (Alsace). Although the producer indicates that this is a medium-sweet wine, it does seem to be sweeter than that. The concentration of berry, raisin and dried apricot favors, and the layers of honey accentuate the sweetness. It’s a wine to be drunk now, although it will age well until 2020. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

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Willm 2008 Vendanges Tardives Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is a seriously sweet, gorgeously opulent wine made from late-harvest fruit. Spice notes fringe favors of honey and fresh fruit. It’s a wine to drink now, although it will age well until 2020. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $38

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Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2010 Vendange Tardive Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is a richly honeyed wine that has favors of spice cake and sweet fruits that are balanced with a taut, frm texture. The wine is ripe, but has a delicate touch that makes it very attractive. Drink now. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $34

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Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2009 Vendange Tardive Riesling (Alsace). Notes of almonds and sweet fruit combine with steely acidity in this wine. It has both a bright, fresh character and honeyed smoothness. It is still quite youthful and could age well for 3–4 years. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $34

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Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2009 Late Harvest Pinot Gris (Alsace). More than just rich and sweet, this wine shows intense, complex favors. It is full of ripe lychee and spice favors, and boasts a rich, creamy texture with a fnish that hints of dryness. It is maturing well and already ready to drink, but it will also hold for several more years. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

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Joseph Cattin 2009 Vendanges Tardives Gewurztraminer (Alsace). As a Gewurztraminer becomes sweeter, it loses some of its spice. What it gains, as here, is a more intense, honeyed and fragrant character that also allows space for acidity. There is some dryness on the Gnish, as well as a pleasant astringency. Drink until 2019. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

CRÉMANT D’ALSACE

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Domaine Pfister NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). This is a Gne, fragrant wine that is fresh and very fruity. It has a good balance of green and white fruits, a refreshing layer of acidity and a touch of toast. It’s a great apéritif. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

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Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Eclipse Crémant Blanc Brut Nature (Crémant d’Alsace). Whether it’s the biodynamic vineyard or the ripeness of the fruit, this is certainly a rich, full-bodied wine. It’s fruity and forward, although it’s structure and minerality lendimpressive character. The aMertaste is fruity, fresh and bone dry. Superb Wine International LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17 Willm NV Blanc de Noirs Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). This is a deliciously ripe, full-bodied wine with all the red berry fruits, orange zest and acidity that you could want. It’s Gnely made with a creamy mousse and a fresh and fruity aMertaste. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg NV Exception Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). The wine has mature, ripe, tropical fruit and favors, as well as rich acidity and a smooth, toasty edge. It is a full-bodied, complex wine that’s full of acidity. This is a food friendly sparkling wine. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $28 Clément Klur NV La Crémant de Clément Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Made without any added sulphur, this sparkling wine shows maturity, a pleasant hint of oxidation, as well as spice and ripe apple favors. It is rich with a forward, bright, fruity character. A.I. Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $21 Jean-Baptiste Adam NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Citrus and apple favors dominate this tight, mineral, crisp wine. It has a refreshing feel with acidity that’s well integrated into the fruitiness, as well as a light texture. Drink now. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $18

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Joseph Cattin NV Brut Cattin (Crémant d’Alsace). Cattin has a speciality with sparkling wines and this is a good, fruity example. It has a lively, creamy mousse with apple and citrus favors that come through strongly and cleanly. It’s ready to drink. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20

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Klipfel NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). This is a ripe and fruity wine that’s deliciously fresh and fragrant. It has a lively, creamy texture with apple juice favors and a touch of nuttiness. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

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Wolfberger NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). This is a really fruity, really refreshing sparkling wine. It boasts apple, citrus and a touch of apricot favors, as well as tight acidity. It is fragrant, pure and clean, and very fresh on the Gnish. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $22

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Cave de Hunawihr NV Calixte Rosé Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). This light pink wine is warm, ripe and red-fruit favored. It is soM and creamy with just the right amount of acidity. There’s a refreshing, light aMertaste. Solstars Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

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Domaine François Schmitt NV Blanc de Noirs Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). There is deGnite structure to this wine, with its tight acidity and dry, apple skin and pear favors. There is also a touch of spice that gives the wine a unique twist. Drink now. Riahi Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $29

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Domaine François Schmitt NV Rosé Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Very pale in color, this spice and red-fruit favored wine is refreshing and crisp. It’s a light wine, cut through by acidity and foral undertones. Drink this attractive wine now. Riahi Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $28

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Gustave Lorentz NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). This is a delicious, ripe and fruity wine. It has all the right characters of freshness, a creamy mousse and tight, zingy acidity. It’s a wine to drink now and enjoy its lightly perfumed aMertaste. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $28

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Willm NV Brut Rosé (Crémant d’Alsace). With just a touch of bitterness and structure, this is a Gnely textured wine. It has plenty of fresh red and white fruit favors, a lively, busy mousse and a tight acidity on the Gnish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

ITALY MARCHE VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE

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Bucci 2009 Riserva Villa Bucci (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). From Verdicchio’s leading producer, this is the wine that started the denomination’s renaissance into Italy’s premier white. The ’09 is beautiful, with an intense perfume of yellow fowers and stone fruits. The palate delivers concentrated peach, apricot and creamy lemon favors, layered with mineral and spice accents. It already has stunning depth, but hold for more complexity. Drink through 2024. Empson (USA) Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

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Garofoli 2006 Selezione Gioacchino Garofoli (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Already seven years old when tasted, this stunning wine demonstrates the aging potential of

top Verdicchios. It has a layered fragrance of dried acacia fower, broom and beeswax, while the palate delivers a lovely depth of favors that recall ripe yellow peach, lemon drop, tangerine and sage, with a hint of honey on the close. Laird & Company. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Umani Ronchi 2012 Casal di Serra (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Notes of hawthorne, acacia and tropical fruit open this quintessential expression of Verdicchio. The fresh, juicy palate is loaded with pineapple, creamy white peach and lemon custard favors, accented by hints of balsamic herbs and ocean-like salinity. Energizing mineral adds to the depth. Hold for 2–3 years to develop complexity or enjoy now for the fruit purity. Bedford International. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

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Bucci 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore. This classic bottling opens with enticing Horal aromas of Spanish broom, acacia and a whiI of Hint. The palate delivers succulent yellow peach, citrus and almond along with mineral notes. It boasts impeccable balance and nice length. Empson (USA) Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

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Montecappone 2012 Federico II A.D. 1194 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Named afer the King of Sweden who was born in Jesi in 1194, this elegant expression of Verdicchio opens with a bouquet of dried Spanish broom, sage and stone fruit. The palate oIers peach, lemon zest and tropical fruit Havors alongside savory saline and almond notes, all supported by vibrant acidity. Salvia Bianca Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $26

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Pievalta 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore. Made from grapes grown with certifed biodynamic viticultural practices, this delicious wine opens with Horal and citrus aromas. The lush yet reserved palate oIers mouthwatering peach, lemon-lime and sea salt Havors, along with mineral and almond notes. A white with real character and depth. Vignaioli Selection. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

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Umani Ronchi 2011 Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s a polished Verdicchio made from 40-year-old vines. It opens with an attractive bouquet of Spanish broom and acacia Hower, along with hints of citrus and mineral. The palate delivers generous peach and apricot Havors accented by energizing mineral notes. Hold a few years for more complexity. Bedford International. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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Vignamato 2012 Versiano (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Opening with an alluring fragrance of acacia Hower, Spanish broom and beeswax, this boasts Heshy peach and

juicy pineapple Havors, along with mineral notes and a drop of honey. It has lovely depth and should evolve more complexity over the next 2–3 years. Specialty Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18

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Accadia 2011 Cantorì (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This opens with an alluring fragrance of Spanish broom, wild Howers and a whiI of sea breeze. The palate delivers creamy white peach, juicy pineapple and lemon accented by hints of saline and mineral. It’s still fresh and should develop more complexity. Drink now through 2015. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

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Garofoli 2011 Podium (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This opens with lovely Horal aromas accompanied by pure fruit sensations. The palate oIers ripe yellow peach, lemonlime and almond notes. This can be enjoyed now or held for a few years to develop more complexity. Laird & Company. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

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La Staffa 2011 Rincrocca (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This attractive wine opens with unusual but enticing aromas of spring Howers, dill and thyme. The palate oIers lemon peel, lime, apricot and almond alongside bright acidity. It will actually beneft with a little more bottle age to develop depth and complexity. Drink 2015–2018. Classica. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18

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Marchetti 2012 Tenuta del Cavaliere (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s a classic rendition of Central Italy’s premier white wine. It has a lovely fragrance of yellow spring Howers and spice, along with tropical fruit notes. The palate shows nice depth, oIering juicy peach, pineapple and tangerine notes alongside spice and dried herb sensations. August Wine Group. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

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Marotti Campi 2012 Luzano (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s a nice expression that opens with typical varietal aromas of Spanish broom, chamomile and hay. The bright palate delivers crisp green apple, citrus and ripe white peach, followed by a bitter almond note on the Gnish. Villa Italia. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

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Moncaro 2012 Verde Ca’ Ruptae (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s a lovely Verdicchio with an alluring Horal fragrance of acacia and hints of Spanish broom and sea breeze. The palate shows peach, citrus and pineapple Havors, along with notes of dried Mediterranean herbs and brine. Hold for 2–3 years to develop complexity. International Cellars. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

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Sartarelli 2012 Tralivio (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This attractive wine opens with Verdicchio’s typical aromas of Spanish broom and stone fruit, as well as a whif of fint. The palate ofers creamy ripe peach, citrus and pineapple favors, along with hints of salinity and minerality that are brightened by fresh acidity. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $17

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Tenuta di Tavignano 2012 Misco (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This lovely Verdicchio opens with an alluring fragrance of white spring fowers, Spanish broom and a whiI of sea breeze. The creamy palate delivers white peach, tropical fruit and lemon notes, all brightened by crisp acidity and mineral accents. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18

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Brunori 2012 San Nicolò (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This pretty wine oIers a fragrance of hawthorne, Spanish broom and a touch of tropical fruit. The palate delivers apricot, peach and citrus favors that are energized by steely mineral notes and bright acidity. It has a crisp, quenching Gnish. Sussex Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

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Colonnara 2012 Cuprese (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This bright wine opens with an intensely foral fragrance of yellow rose and chamomile. The palate oIers juicy peach, tangerine peel and green apple favors alongside crisp acidity. It closes on a bitter almond note. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Garofoli 2012 Macrina (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s an attractive wine that oIers a Horal fragrance of Spanish broom. It’s bright and enjoyable, with yellow peach and apricot Havors that are punctuated by hints of savory brine and mineral. The Grm structure is balanced by weightless texture. Laird & Company. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $15

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Tenuta di Tavignano 2012 Villa Torre (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This opens up with a heady fragrance of apricot and Spanish broom. The palate oIers Heshy peach and juicy lemon Havors, along with notes of pineapple and almond that support the wine’s bright acidity. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $14

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Monte Schiavo 2012 Pallio di San Floriano (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This opens with pretty Horal aromas of white peach and juicy pineapple accompanied by salinity and dried sage notes. Siena Imports, L’Amore di Vino. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Sartarelli 2011 Balciana (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This opens with aromas of butterscotch, lemon cream pie and ripe stone fruit. The palate starts oI with rich apricot, apple and peach Havors, but it has a very warm palate that’s dominated by evident alcohol sensations. It Gnishes on a bitter almond note. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $25

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO

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Andrea Felici 2010 Riserva Il Cantico della Figura (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This opens with a heady Horal fragrance of hawthorne and Spanish broom, with a whiI of stone fruit. It has delicious Havors of creamy peach, lemon and mineral alongside Verdicchio’s unique salinity. Peter/Warren Selections, Augustan Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Andrea Felici 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico. Here’s a delicious Verdicchio that opens with a Horal fragrance of Spanish broom and stone fruit. The savory palate delivers creamy white peach, apple and lemon Havors alongside mineral and saline accents. The Gnish boasts an almond note. Hold for two or three years to develop complexity. Peter/Warren Selections, Augustan Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $21

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Cantina Ma.Ri.Ca. 2009 Riserva Aurato (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This savory Verdicchio oIers freshness and Heshy fruit Havors of creamy white peach, lemon and tropical fruit, all accented by mineral notes. The round structure is brightened by crisp acidity that leaves a cleansing Gnish. Simply Stated Wines. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $22

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La Staffa 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico. Here’s a quintessential Verdicchio from one of the denomination’s rising stars that opens with a fragrance of spring Howers, hay and Hint. The palate delivers Heshy white peach, pear and almond Havors, along with mineral notes and bright acidity that results in a refreshing Gnish. Fun to drink now or hold 2–3 years for additional complexity. Classica. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $12

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Marotti Campi 2010 Riserva Salmariano (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This lovely Verdicchio has the wine’s trademark Horal fragrance of broom and acacia Howers, along with a whiI of beeswax. The rich palate boasts creamy apple, yellow peach and tropical fruit Havors accompanied by energizing mineral notes and crisp acidity. Villa Italia. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Montecappone 2012 Riserva Utopia (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Here’s a Grmly structured and suave Verdicchio that boasts alluring aromas of yellow Hower, tropical fruit and apricot. The juicy palate oIers up Havors of ripe white peach, citrus and slightly bitter almond. The rich Havors are freshened by crisp, cleansing acidity. Enjoy now or hold until 2016 for more complexity. Salvia Bianca Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $37

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Santa Barbara 2012 Le Vaglie (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This opens with intense fragrances of peach and apricot that carry over to the palate alongside a juicy lemon Havor. It also boasts mouthwatering salinity and mineral sensations and, while it’s delicious now, hold for 2–3 years to develop additional dimensions of Havor. Solstars Inc. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Umani Ronchi 2010 Riserva Plenio (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Aged partly in oak, this Grmly structured wine opens with lovely aromas of Spanish broom, hawthorne and tropical fruit, as well as a whiI of toasted oak. The palate delivers concentrated Havors of peach, lemon peel and apple layered with cinnamon-spice. Bedford International. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

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Brunori 2012 Le Gemme (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Here’s a delicious and structured white that opens with an intensely Horal fragrance of hawthorne and Spanish broom. The palate delivers Havors of Heshy white peach, apple and pear, along with a bitter almond note. The creamy fruit is brightened by crisp acidity that leaves a clean Gnish. Worldwide Cellars, Sussex Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

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Montecappone 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico. This opens with Horal aromas that recall white spring Howers while the palate oIers peach, apple and citrus notes, along with hints of mineral and sea salt. It’s bright and crisp on the close. Salvia Bianca Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

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Pievalta 2010 Riserva San Paolo (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Made from organically-farmed grapes, this structured Verdicchio has staying power. It opens with textbook aromas of yellow spring Howers, lemon and Hint. The palate delivers notes of peach, apricot and aromatic herbs, all restrained by vibrant acidity. This is still young, so drink from 2015–2018 when it’s more developed. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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Casalfarneto 2010 Riserva Crisio (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This opens with a Horal fragrance that recalls yellow spring Howers and exotic fruit. The linear palate oIers restrained

Golden Delicious apple and lemon zest notes, along with a mineral accent. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $30

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Lucchetti 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico. Here’s a pretty Verdicchio with the grape’s classic fragrance of white Howers and stone fruit. The linear palate oIers lemon, apple, white peach and mineral Havors alongside bright acidity that leaves a clean, refreshing Gnish. Columbia Distributing. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $12

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Monte Schiavo 2010 Riserva Le Giuncare (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This wine opens with sensations of yellow spring Howers and a whiI of citrus. The linear palate oIers lemon zest and tart apple Havors, framed by racy acidity. Siena Imports, L’Amore di Vino. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Vicari 2012 Del Pozzo Buono (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This attractive wine opens with intensely Horal aromas of white spring Howers accented by whiIs of stone fruit. It has a linear palate, with juicy Havors of peach and lemon alongside crisp, refreshing acidity. Southport Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Vignamato 2008 Riserva Ambrosia (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This wine opens with aromas of oak, butterscotch and dill that carry over to the palate alongside Havors of vanilla, lemon zest and apricot. This would be a nice alternative for fans of oaked Chardonnay. Specialty Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $22

odo classico, it has bright and delicious apple, tropical fruit and citrus Havors, with a walnut note on the Gnish. It’s enjoyable now and the silky mousse makes this extra drinkable. Zig Zagando. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

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Santa Barbara 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Here’s a charming wine that opens with delicate Horal aromas of white Howers and stone fruits. The palate oIers banana, pineapple and creamy white-peach Havors alongside freshening acidity. It Gnishes on a bitter almond note. Downey Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

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Conte Leopardi 2012 Castelverde (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). This opens with lemon, lime and tropical fruit aromas that carry over to the palate alongside Havors of yellow apples, citrus and peach. It’s linear, with freshening acidity and a drying Gnish. Pair it with lightly seasoned seafood. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $19

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Conti di Buscareto 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. This opens with a delicate and enticing fragrance of white and yellow Howers, hay and beeswax. The palate delvers Havors of golden apple, peach and lemon, with an almond accent. The smooth, weightless texture is brightened by fresh acidity. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

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Conti di Buscareto 2008 Ammazzaconte (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). This Verdicchio opens with Horal aromas of Spanish broom and acacia, along with a hint of petroleum that recalls Riesling. The linear palate is a bit lean but oIers up lemon, bitter almond and mineral notes alongside bright acidity. Zig Zagando. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $23

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Santa Barbara 2009 Tardivo Ma Non Tardo (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). Here’s a delicious late-harvested Verdicchio that oIers an intense bouquet of yellow rose and tropical fruit. The palate delivers juicy pineapple and Heshy peach Havors, with hints of Mediterranean herbs, clove and nutmeg. This boasts lovely depth and complexity. Drink through 2017. Solstars Inc. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

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Fattoria Laila 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Here’s a Verdicchio that shows oI the grape’s quintessential aromas of yellow spring Howers and whiIs of stone fruit. It oIers creamy peach and lemon Havors alongside hints of sea salt and almond. Crisp, refreshing acidity leaves the palate feeling cleansed. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $10

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Colonnara NV Luigi Ghislieri (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). This delightful sparkler shows the versatility of the Verdicchio grape. A met-

Pievalta 2011 Passito (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). Made from organically farmed Verdicchio, this dessert wine opens with apricot, pecan, tangerine and honey aromas that carry over to the syrupy palate alongside citrus, tangerine and almond Havors. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA/500 ml

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ColleStefano 2012 Verdicchio di Matelica. From one of the top estates in the Matelica denomination and made from organically farmed grapes, this stunning wine oIers a beautiful bouquet of acacia Howers, beeswax and stone fruit. The palate delivers Havors of creamy white peach, apricot and pear, all accented by aromatic herbs and mineral tones. Delicious now, with crisp acidity, this will develop complexity over the next few years. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $18

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Belisario 2012 Vigneti del Cerro (Verdicchio di Matelica). This textbook Verdicchio from Matelica opens with enticing aromas of yellow spring fowers, stone fruit and citrus. The delicious palate ofers peach, tropical fruit and mineral favors, with a hint of sea salt. Villa Italia. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Fontezoppa 2012 Verdicchio di Matelica. This beautiful wine opens with a heady foral fragrance of jasmine, broom, acacia and beeswax. The palate delivers succulent creamy peach and pineapple notes, with a hint of bitter almond. The creamy palate is brightened by mouthwatering acidity and, while delicious now, this will develop additionalcomplexity; drink 2014–2020. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $10

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Muròla 2012 Verdicchio di Matelica. For full review see page 76. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

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Belisario 2012 Terre di Valbona (Verdicchio di Matelica). This opens with attractive aromas of yellow spring fowers and an assortment of white tree fruits. The vibrant palate oIers lemon, tangerine, apple and pineapple favors alongside fresh acidity. Artisan Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

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Guido Cocci Grifoni 2012 Colle Vecchio (Offida Pecorino). From the estate that saved the Pecorino grape from extinction, this focused and refned wine intrigues from the start, with its foral aromas of jasmine and acacia, layered with whiIs of balsamic herbs. The palate demonstrates lovely energy and elegance, with peach and tropical fruit favors accented by mineral and almond. Empson (USA) Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $16

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Ciù Ciù 2012 Merlettaie (Ofda Pecorino). This opens with Pecorino’s classic foral fragrance of acacia and hawthorne, accented by whiIs of stone fruit. On the palate, it delivers ripe peach and apple favors, with notes of ginger, almond and a drop of honey. Energizing minerality marks the fnish. Villa Italia. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $17

Pecorino oIers juicy tropical fruit and lemon drop sensations accented by notes of mint and thyme. The ripe fruit is balanced by brisk acidity that leaves the palate feeling cleansed and refreshed. The Harvest Importing . —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

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Poderi San Lazzaro 2012 Pistillo (Ofda Pecorino). Attractive Horal scents of yellow Howers and Alpine herbs meld with juicy Havors of creamy peach, apple and lemon, all accented by hints of thyme and sage. Aging 25% of the wine in wood lends a touch of complexity to the savory Havors. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $25

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Villa Bizzarri 2012 Primo Cerchio (Ofda Pecorino). Here’s a delicious Pecorino that opens with appealing if unusual aromas of tilled soil alongside more classic Horal notes of Spanish broom and acacia. It boasts ripe white peach, juicy pineapple and lemon custard Havors, along with almond and mineral notes. Siena Imports. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

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Collevite 2012 Villa Piatti (Ofda Pecorino). This opens with variety’s signature Horal fragrance of acacia and jasmine, accented by tropical fruit. The Havors of creamy lemon, pear, tangerine and lime are accented with hints of dried Mediterranean herbs. This is linear and focused. Park Avenue Imports. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $22

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Saladini Pilastri 2012 Ofda Pecorino. Here’s a bright and delicious Pecorino, with sensations of white peach, pear, tropical fruit and lemon zest. The savory palate is upliMed by a vein of energizing minerality. Pair this with pastas topped with shellfsh. Saranty Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

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La Canosa 2012 Pekò (Ofda Pecorino). Made from 100% Pecorino, this oIers Horal aromas of acacia and jasmine. On the palate, it shows tropical fruit Havors of pineapple and banana, accented by notes of thyme, mint and a hint of vanilla. Vinum USA Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $13

AUSTRIA BLAUFRÄNKISCH

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Clara Marcelli 2012 IRATA (Ofda Pecorino). Made from organically farmed grapes, this lovely wine opens with intense aromas of acacia and hawthorne. The medium-bodied palate delivers tropical fruit, peach and pear favors alongside crisp acidity. A delicate mineral note marks the close. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

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Colli Ripani 2012 Rugaro Gold (Ofda Pecorino). Bright and savory, this foral scented

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Krutzler 2011 Perwolff Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). The combination of just-ripe cherry fruit and fresh blackberries with bracing acidity distinguishes this clean-cut red. A totally winning interplay of refreshingly tart fruit in a gentle structure, carefully framed by oak, this shows immense purity and is joy to drink. Drink aMer 2015. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Umathum 2011 Kirschgarten Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Flinty elderberry and crushed blackberry are the dark-fruited aromatics that pervade the nose and palate of this wine. There is a smoky smudge to the velvet tannins, making this intriguing and elegant. The tannic structure frames this medium-bodied charmer, and its superb balance and aromatic layers make you come back for more. Ready from 2016. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $46

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Birgit Braunstein 2011 Felsenstein Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Initially tight and closed, a few minutes in the glass reveal ballet-like elegance, slender but defned muscle and tightly-packed, dark cherry fruit, along with the aromatic allure of elderberries. This is sleek and spicy and totally worth the wait with its seductive, ethereal aromas. Drink from 2015. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2011 Alter Berg Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). This is a compelling red for those who like a bit of mystery: is it red or black cherry? Or possibly, dark, aromatic elderberry? Oak spicily supports this interchange of fruit, and frm tannins lend structure while the fresh acidity keeps it lively. It’s almost like a whole cast of characters were lined up in this wine for your entertainment. The lingering fnish is especially convincing. This will get even better with cellaring; drink from 2016. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $100

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Krutzler 2011 Reserve Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Alluring white-pepper spice, with nuances of dried thyme and seductive cherry fruit, make this a compelling choice with more depth than force. This is subtle and velvety, quietly convincing and very long. Firm yet ripe tannins provide structure and ageability. This will be even more elegant with a few years of cellaring; drink 2016–2020. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Birgit Braunstein 2011 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). Black cherry and ripe blackberry would sumptuously lull you in if it weren’t for that tender frame of acidity and soM, supple tannins, keeping everything in check and making this a versatile food wine. This has immense charm and pure, long, peppery fruit. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Muhr-Van der Niepoort 2011 Spitzerberg Blaufränkisch (Carnuntum). A great purity of liMed, wild blackberry, fringed by ivy leaves, makes a lasting impression on this mysterious, ethereal wine. Deeper down lurk darker notes of smoke, elderberry, tar and Hint. A slender body with fresh acidity destines this for the table: wherever intriguing aromatics are required, this is the wine. Martine’s Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

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Prieler 2010 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). Red cherry fruit, with edges of white pepper, plays charmingly on both the nose and palate. The svelte fgure of the wine belies its depth: this has subtle, Burgundian virtues and earthy undertones that provoke stimulating conversation and thought. An ideal accompaniment for subtle, nuanced dishes or a really good book. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $58

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Iby 2011 Chevalier Blaufränkisch (Mittelburgenland). If you expect coquettish firting you must go elsewhere: this amply layered red will not give up its secrets easily. But engage with it and it will reward with poised, polished structure, subtle pepper spice and ripe but reined-in cherry fruit. The more time you spend with it, the more you’ll discover. Ready from 2015. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

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Krutzler 2012 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Dark cherry, blackberry and ripe blueberries vie for attention on the nose. The palate is elegant and tight, with some oak spice and soM but palpable tannins and food-friendly acidity. This is ideal for subtle dishes that demand a red wine with depth and quiet power. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Wohlmuth 2011 Rabenkropf Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Red and black cherry and crushed blackberry unite with hints of cinnamon and clove in this medium-bodied wine. With ample depth and elegance, this takes time to open up but provides a lovely, velvety texture, with ripe but still textured tannins. This is ready now but will also beneft from cellaring. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $40

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Hafner 2012 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Rounded, ripe and luscious cherry and blackberry fruit boast a meaty edge for added interest. The body is ample without any heaviness, pierced by a lively, appetizing freshness and shades of darker, smoky berries in the background. Apollo Fine Spirits. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Iby 2011 Quintus Blaufränkisch (Mittelburgenland). Cinnamon and ripe blueberry fash out from this concentrated, almost broodingly seductive red. It takes time to open up but fulflls its promise with a supple, generous body. SoM tannins have their counterpoint in ripe, almost luscious fruit that is as warming and soM as a velvet blanket. This works well with or without food. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Pittnauer 2011 Ungerberg Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Ripe, sweet blueberries, black pepper and refreshing acidity make this an

incredibly appetizing wine. In sheer, unadulterated drinkability, this scores so well: It’s fresh-faced and uncomplicated but very moreish. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $59

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Prieler 2011 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). Initially reticent, with just a hint of ground white pepper that also persists on the palate, this elegant and sleek red convinces with concentration of forest berries rather than with power. Its fnetuned acidity makes it perfect for the table, while the soM tannins mean that it does not necessarily need fatty meat. Its peppery fnish is delicious. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $58

ST. LAURENT

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Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Frauenfeld St. Laurent (Thermenregion). A very intriguing nose of fresh dill and dried anise gives this plenty of aromatic liM, following through on the concentrated palate where ripe cherries join. Oak tannins lend additional structure but never dominate. While lovely now, this will certainly gain from a year or two in the cellar. Its soM, but full body is a triumph. Drink from 2016–2020. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Prieler 2011 Johanneshöhe Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). A concentrated palate of black cherry and wild blueberry combine to give a full-fruited midpalate, with supple tannins and a juicy, moreish freshness. This strikes a convincing balance between rounded richness and refreshing lightness. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $23

Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Holzspur St. Laurent (Thermenregion). The appetizing and enticing savoriness of freshly chopped dill runs like a faultline through this concentrated, yet elegant red. Ripe cherry hides behind the straightening tannins of oak and waits to burst out as this soMens with a little bottle age. Very fnely-knit tannins extend a gentle grip and frame a compelling, layered wine. Drink from 2016–2020. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $90

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Wohlmuth 2012 Hochberg Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Notes of juicy black cherries, a velvety texture and streamlined acidity make this a lip-smackingly lively wine, with a svelte but toned body. It is the sort of wine you are looking for when the food is hearty but not heavy—this red will be an elegant accompaniment. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Judith Beck 2012 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Tart morello cherries exert a strong, moreish pull on the nose and palate. The fruitiness is central but partnered with serious structure and food-friendly acidity. Ripe red-cherry favor shows on the palate, as do supple, ripe tannins that never overpower the fruit. VOS Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Nittnaus Anita und Hans 2011 Kalk und Schiefer Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). A very quintessential Blaufränkisch, this boasts a light-footed balance of cherry, dark berries, sprightly acidity and medium body in a sleek and elegantly silhouetted frame, with ripe, soM tannins. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Preisinger 2012 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Crushed blackberry and smoky blueberry show a vibrant presence. This is luscious and velvety, without ever losing its continental-climate freshness and poise. Really refreshing and uncomplicated, but defnitely not simple, this provides exciting fruit and is easy to drink on its own. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $23

R&A Pfaf 2011 Altenberg Reserve St. Laurent (Niederösterreich). For full review see page 73. abv: 13% Price: $44

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Birgit Braunstein 2011 Goldberg St. Laurent (Burgenland). A soM, light-footed entry is followed by extracted, yet still fnely-knit tannins— presently, black cherry fruit is hidden behind them, but a juicy acidity promises they will come to the surface before long. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Hafner 2011 Classique St. Laurent (Burgenland). Highly aromatic, black elderberries explode on the nose. Blueberry follows against a backdrop of graphite and plays the same delicious accords on the soM, supple and juicy palate of this appetizing wine. Kosher. Apollo Fine Spirits. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $12

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Kurt Angerer 2011 St. Laurent (Niederösterreich). Brooding and mysterious—giving away just a hint of white pepper, dark plum and Horal notes of peony—this richly purple wine gives up more of its secrets on the palate, revealing ripe plum fruit and sweeter spice from oak. Tannins are plentiful, ripe and supple, while lovely pepperiness carries through from start to fnish. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Stif Klosterneuburg 2011 Reserve St. Laurent (Thermenregion). Gentle and elegant red cherry and plum smooth out the structured body of this concentrated, medium-bodied wine. Initially closed, this invites further inspection and conversation with the promise of plush fruit and

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BUYINGGUIDE a subdued, velvety fnish. Leopold Imports LLC. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

liciousness. A versatile food wine, especially where there are fruity accents. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Bründlmayer 2011 Ladner St. Laurent (Niederösterreich). Subtle pepper and undergrowth notes play as strongly of a role as the gentle red currant fruit in this understated, lighter-bodied but spicy wine. Made in a very traditional vein, it is an unobtrusive, versatile red for lighter lunches where its pepperiness will score extra points. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

ZWEIGELT

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Netzl 2011 Haidacker Zweigelt (Carnuntum). A concentrated but restrained wine that is a bit like French couture: timelessly elegant, quietly confdent but incredibly well-made and ftting. The tannins provide structure without being obtrusive. Oak plays a sonorous supporting role and dark cherry beckons on the nose and palate, all concluding in a peppery, long fnish. Ready now but will keep till 2016. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $55

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Schloss Gobelsburg 2011 Haide Zweigelt (Niederösterreich). This is a Zweigelt with an identity crisis that thinks it may be Pinot Noir. It’s elegant and silky, with a gentle tannic touch, refreshing acidity and restrained but evocative redcurrant and cranberry fruit. Overtones of peony and iris make this more intriguing, while there is substance despite its light body. This is delicious now, but will reward cellaring for one to two years to let earthy, tertiary favors develop. Drink from 2014. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

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Leth 2011 Gigama Grande Reserve Zweigelt (Wagram-Donauland). An unusually rounded, fuller-bodied Zweigelt in a rather successful marriage with oak. Cinnamon, clove and vanilla fesh out the fresh cherry and blackberry favors to result in a harmonious, appetizing wine with supple, ripe tannins and a resonant fnish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $70

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Birgit Braunstein 2011 Goldberg Zweigelt (Burgenland). Crushed boysenberry is foremost on the nose and palate, while a rounded, supple but defned structure makes this a winning choice for subtle foods. There is both elegance and length and a lovely, integrated touch of well-handled oaky vanilla. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Kurt Angerer 2011 Granit Zweigelt (Niederösterreich). An inviting combination of aromatic cinnamon with primary plum fruit that resembles a spiced plum tart straight out of the oven—simply irresistible. There is tannic texture and a concentrated, aromatic core of plummy de-

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Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Luckenwald Zweigelt (Neusiedlersee). Toasty oak and backed structure appear frst, with lots of charming cherry fruit and savory notes of undergrowth, inside. Tightly knit and well made, with a dense core of red cherry and an appetizing length. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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Weingut Christ 2011 Bisamberg Zweigelt (Vienna). A deep smoky red in color, this exudes fresh but tart blackberry, with hints of cinnamon on the nose. These favors are pleasantly present on the palate, where low-level tannins are sleek and elegant. A juicy, concentrated, vibrant and refreshing wine from one of Vienna’s famous vineyards that delivers with its slender body, gentle tannins and good length. Carlo Huber Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $22

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Hannes Reeh 2012 Zweigelt (Neusiedlersee). An incredibly balanced wine where red cherry fruit marries with velvety tannins, medium body and clean-cut acidity and cinnamon hints in the background. This is an ideal, unobtrusive but delicious food wine that will perform no matter what. Acid Inc Selections. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

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Hannes Reeh 2012 Unplugged Zweigelt (Burgenland). Black, ripe elderberries, with a tart but supple body make this an appetizing, lighter wine that holds an unusual aromatic intensity. There is an intriguing hint of wilderness and a streak of fresh acidity that makes this soM wine an ideal match for lighter foods. Drink this while it’s young and vibrant. Acid Inc Selections. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $34

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Anton Bauer 2011 Alte Reben Zweigelt (Wagram-Donauland). Fresh, friendly, straightforward red cherry fruit on the nose and palate, extend with pleasing concentration and a supple, balanced body. Peppery spice lurks in the background against a tightly-knit, but soM tannic structure providing additional interest and making this a versatile, fruitful and refreshing wine. Prescott Wines. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $18

PINOT NOIR

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Umathum 2011 Unter den Terassen Pinot Noir (Burgenland). Once coaxed out of the glass, there is something ethereal about this Pinot Noir in its compelling, liMed nose of elderberry, wild raspberry and aromatic nettle. It is deceptively light on the surface with translucent veils of silky tannins that draw you in. While there is engaging verve right

now, this will come into its own once time has revealed the deeper layers of fruit. Drink from 2016. Winemonger. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

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Anton Bauer 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wagram-Donauland). Ripe, red cherry, with Horal notes of rose, iris and a hint of cinnamon introduce this ripe and luscious wine that is already surprisingly open and generous. Its gentle, fnely-knit tannic structure will allow this to age, but there is a pleasant, seductive mellowness already in the alternating layers of spice and cherry. Drink from 2014–2018. Prescott Wines. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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Fischer 2011 Premium Pinot Noir (Thermenregion). Everything about this wine is subtle—in an orchestra, this would be the harp. The balance between red berry and cherry, medium body and fne acidity is supreme. There are notions of peppery undergrowth and the frm hold of fnely woven tannin. This aromatic, disciplined wine will break out of its corset in time and display autumnal leaves and fruit—the persistent length is most promising. Ready to drink from 2016. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

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Fritsch 2011 ’P’ Pinot Noir (Wagram-Donauland). Very subtle but ultimately seductive wild cherry notes captivate on the nose, while the body is luscious, rounded, generous and inviting, without an ounce of fat. There are hints of clove and anise, a deep, mellow cherry core and haunting Horal hints. Drink 2015–2020. Monika Caha Selections. —A.K. abv: 15% Price: $NA

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Bründlmayer 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich). Smoky cinnamon dominates the nose, on the palate where notes of red currant and cranberry become apparent. The palate is tightly gathered in its fnely constructed, tannic frame. Time in glass reveals riper cherry fruit at the heart. In two to three years it will mellow and show its true aromatic colors. The substance is evident now, but the aromas bid you to wait. Ready from 2016. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $63

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Loimer 2011 Anning Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich). It is white pepper rather than fruit that pervades the nose and palate on this wine, displaying a tight grip and slender body—not to say that deeper berry fruit does not slumber in the depths. This still has to come out of its shell and is best served with subtle, nuanced food that will mirror its intriguing nature. This will certainly blossom in a year or two. Ready from 2015. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Markowitsch 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Carnuntum). The vanilla and cookie-dough lick of toasty oak lends soMness, warmth and spice

to the red currant fruit of this slender, but elegant wine. Slightly more bottle age is needed for fruit and wood to marry completely, but it fnishes with a wonderfully savory fourish of pepper and undergrowth. Ready from 2015. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Höpler 2011 Pinot Noir (Burgenland). Subdued notes of clove and pepper mixed with tart cranberry make this an appetizing, fresh-faced red. The body is light but packs lots of favor. What you see is what you get—in the most charming way possible. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Kurt Angerer 2011 Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich). Primary red-cherry notes charm the nose, while gentle vanilla and hints of oak, fowers and clove build a framework. There is some grip in this medium-bodied wine, thanks to the fnely-woven tannins. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 The Pinot Puzzle Pinot Noir (Burgenland). This is one of those Pinot Noirs that play hide and seek with you: is that violet or rose? Is it Bing cherry or Amarena? There is red currant and cherry fruit at the center, with overtones of oak, bright acidity and gentle tannins. This will perform best if served with food. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $30

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Wine Art Estate 2011 Idisma Drios Assyrtico (Drama). Spice, vanilla and cinnamon aromas speak to the oak aging on this fresh white. On the palate, robust, yet refreshing Havors of fresh white fruits and vanilla oIer complexity with food-friendly zest. Distinctive Imports LLC. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

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My Big Fat Greek Wine 2011 Assyrtico (Santorini). Aromas of pineapple, white fruit and apple start this likeable white from Santorini. Citrus, tropical fruit and apple Havors on the palate are fuller bodied but still lively. A solid white for everyday enjoyment. Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Papaioannou 2011 St. Elias Vineyards Dry White Assyrtico (Corinthia). Lemon preserve and melon aromas are followed by peach and tropical fruit Havors, all balanced with telltale Greek acidity. Balanced and well made, and a good pairing with fruit, salads and seafood. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

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Spyros Hatziyiannis 2011 Assyrtico (Santorini). Aromas of sea salt, pineapple and citrus start this lively Assyrtiko. It oIers a fresh mineral character rounded by tropical fruit. Friendly and not fussy. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

WHITE BLENDS

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Leth 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wagram-Donauland). Here’s a rather slender Pinot Noir, with soM cranberry fruit, hints of smoky mocha and a little clove. There is something chocolaty, and at the same time refreshing, about this wine, and the tannins are silky-soM in a light and restrained body. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $35

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Schloss Gobelsburg 2011 Alte Haide Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich). The gentle red currant and raspberry fruit in this subtly oaked red lurks amid notes of spicy pepper, undergrowth and autumn leaves. There is a gentle grip and a very natural, unforced sense of elegance to the structure. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $36

GREECE ASSYRTICO

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Greek Wine Cellars 2011 Assyrtico (Santorini). Fresh, clean and elegant aromas of citrus and Howers start this classic Assyrtiko. On the palate, balanced Havors of lemon, sea salt and white fruits oIer food-friendly, quaIable character. A fantastic house wine. Nestor Imports. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

(Agioritikos). Candied lemon and lush tropical fruits start this Assyrtiko, Athiri blend from an established producer in northern Greece. Fresh, fun and slightly sweet on the palate, the wine has a soMer, more feminine touch than many Greek whites. Great with lighter fare like salads and grilled seafood. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 12% Price: $25

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Estate Biblia Chora 2011 Ovilos White (Pangeon). Lemon zest, lime and melon aromas lead this elegant white blend. Zesty citrus and lush melon on the palate oIers a reGned character that is nonetheless Gne for everyday enjoyment. The Gnish is expressive and slightly Horal. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

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A. Parparoussis 2008 Les Dons de Dionysos Barrel Fermented Assyrtiko-Athiri (Achaia). A nose of fresh-cut Howers, tropical fruit and melon leads this barrel-fermented white blend . On the palate, the wine has a lovely Horal character but lacks some of the minerality that gives Greek whites their lively touch. Pair with Gsh or cheeses. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $25

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Oenogenesis 2011 En Oeno... Sauvignon Blanc-Assyrtiko (Macedonia). This Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc blend oIers a zesty, poppy Sauvignon Blanc nose with pineapple, fresh peach and a mineral spin on the palate. Balanced acidity keeps it steady. Likeable and enjoyable, but not intellectual. Eklektikon, LLC. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

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Tsantali 2011 Metoxi Chromitsa X Single Vineyard Assyrtico-Athiri-Sauvignon Blanc

AGIORGITIKO

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Papaioannou 2005 Microclima Agiorgitiko (Nemea). This is a delicious example of what Agiorgitiko should be—complex but delicate, fresh but full of Havor. The nose starts with vibrant cassis, cherry and plum aromas, followed by Havors of blackcurrant, pepper, cherry and cinnamon that are rounded and layered. The wine ends with a lively mineral spin. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Papaioannou 2004 Terroir Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Savory, smoked meat and clove aromas give this lively Agiorgitiko soul. Flavors of leather, smoke, spice and red berry are balanced and clean. A masculine pour that will pair well with dried meats, steak and burgers. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $50

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Papaioannou 2006 Old Vines Single Vineyard Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Violet, crushed herb and mint aromas start this Agiorgitiko. On the palate, coca, vanilla, red berry and a savory spin give it depth. Fresh and friendly but substantive, this wine can age. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Tsantali 2009 Agiorgitiko (Nemea). This wine has a savory overall character, with clove, cinnamon and plum on the nose and espresso, red fruit and leather on the palate. A balanced spin of minerals gives it liM. Pair with roast lamb or poultry. A great deal and a good wine. Fantis Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

RED BLENDS

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Tsantali 2010 Reserve (Rapsani). This appealing red starts with a nose bursting with exotic tobacco, cocoa and red berries, followed by a juicy palate of black fruit, cocoa and sweet smoke. The oak is obvious here, oIering vanilla and spicy notes, but the round fruit character keeps the wine in check. Elegant and fun. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

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Chatzivariti 2010 Staphylus XinomavroCabernet Sauvignon (Slopes of Paiko). This Xinomavro/Cabernet blend is elegant and approachable, with aromas of vanilla, tobacco and allspice and Havors of black cherry, cigarbox and wild

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BUYINGGUIDE black fruits. Integrated and smooth, with a leather spin on the end. Pair with grilled, spiced meats or ripe cheeses. Eklektikon, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $22

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Estate Biblia Chora 2007 Ovilos Red (Pangeon). Blueberry, vanilla and cedar aromas start this rich, luxuriant red. On the palate, savory cigarbox and caramel favors meld with bright red fruits and sweet vanilla. The wine fnishes dry and will pair beautifully with lamb and beef dishes. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $55

ers leads the nose on this poised Merlot/Limnio blend. On the palate, the wine is elegant and laced with clove, mushroom and bright berry favors. A unique wine at an unbeatable price. Fantis Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 12% Price: $8

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Tsantali 2008 Metoxi Chromitsa Limnio-Cabernet Sauvignon (Agioritikos). Leather, dry spice rub and crushed green herb aromas start this Limnio/Cabernet blend from northern Greece. On the palate, the wine is spicy and dry, with earthy undertones of spicebox and forest foor. Pair with lamb or robust cheeses. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

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Domaine Gerovassiliou 2008 Avaton (Epanomi). This Limnio, Mavrotragano and Mavroud blend is fun and fruity but at the same time, oIers some serious character. Smoked sausage, fennel and clove on the nose lead into favors of vanilla, red fruit and savory spice on the palate. Balanced, with good tannic and acidic structure. Ageable. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

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Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Biblinos Oenos (Pangeon). Blackberry, plum, balsamic and leather aromas give this red blend an indigenous, masculine character. On the palate, a heady blend of tobacco, spice and pomegranate favors are buoyed by balanced acidity. Pair with grilled meats, hearty soups, or charred dishes. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $35

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Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Red (Pangeon). Spicy black pepper, smoke and crushed herb aromas give this red an exotic feel. On the palate, lush red berry favors mingle with herbs, pepper and vanilla spice. A distinctive wine and a great partner to dried meats, olives and ripe cheeses. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $35

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Skouras 2008 Synoro (Peloponnese). This Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Agiorgitkio blend is both authentic and versatile, with aromas of strawberry, cinnamon and cedar and robust favors of mocha, cigarbox and red cherry balancing a frm acidity. A touch of smoke and leather adds earthy appeal. Pair with burgers or grilled lamb. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

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Tsantali 2009 Grand Reserve Hand Picked Grapes (Rapsani). Produced from indigenous red varieties grown on the slopes of Mt. Olympus, the Rapsani Grand Reserve starts with voluptuous aromas of blackberry, spice box and liquorice, oIering full-bodied favors of black fruit and olive on the palate. The fruit is well balanced by a spice and mineral backbone. A very good red for lamb, dried meats or stews. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Tsantali 2010 Limnio-Merlot (Halkidiki). Red cherry, vanilla, spicebox and a touch of fow-

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OTHER RED WINES

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Alpha Estate 2008 Alpha One Unfiltered Merlot (Florina). This Merlot from one of Greece’s most exciting producers oIers aromas of plum, black cherry and vanilla on the nose, followed by smooth, integrated favors of black fruit, cinnamon, pepper and a spin of mint on the Gnish. Layered and elegant, with good acidity for food pairing. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

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Hatzimichalis 2008 Kapnias Vineyard Zygos Cabernet Sauvignon (Atalanti Valley). Aromas of red fruit, vanilla and cigarbox start this Cabernet Sauvignon from Greece. Its favors are rich but balanced—cinnamon, cedar, cherry and savory spice—and the wine Gnishes clean and dry. Elegant with ageable potential. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $24

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My Big Fat Greek Wine 2011 Xinomavro (Imathia). This Xinomavro oIers red cherry, spice and black pepper aromas and layers of smoke, vanilla and plucky spice on the palate. Approachable and great for everyday drinking—think lamb gyros or short ribs. Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $15

SOUTH AFRICA CHARDONNAY

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Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Kaaimansgat Limited Edition Chardonnay (Overberg). This wine boasts a lot of character and evolution, and is layered and complex. The bouquet leads with aromas of hay, beeswax, orange oil, wood-grilled apple and sweet spice. Medium weight, but with ample acidity to keep it balanced, rich fruit Havors are accented by notes of toast and wood that carry through the long Gnish. It’s drinking perfectly now, but should last well through 2015. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

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Buitenverwachting 2011 Chardonnay (Constantia). Despite its age, this white still offers upfront ripe-fruit aromas of citrus, pear and

apple, but is graced with additional complex accents of hazelnut, toasted oak, orange blossom, lanolin and soM, chalky minerality. Pineapple, Gg and apple-Hesh Havors Gll the palate, with a smooth, creamy mouthfeel and ample acidic liM to the long, gently textured Gnish. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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Glen Carlou 2010 Quartz Stone Single Vineyard Chardonnay (Paarl). For full review see page 72. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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Hamilton Russell 2011 Chardonnay (Hemel en Aarde). Still in its infancy, this is a white that deserves some time in the cellar to truly harmonize and shine. Currently, it’s rich and woody, with assertive notes of creamy pear, apricot, red apple Hesh, honeycomb and baking spice. The round and lush mouthfeel oIers additional Havors of mango and orange oil, liMed by a Gne thread of acidity. Toasty spice lingers on the Gnish; drink aMer 2014. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $32

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Bartinney 2011 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). Bright aromas of crisp red apple and Anjou pear lead the nose of this wine, with touches of melon rind and clementine dancing in the background. It’s clean and well balanced, with lively citrus and apple Havors. A hint of beeswax adds depth to the palate, while the Gnish is clean and refreshing. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Missionvale Chardonnay (Walker Bay). Aromas of woodgrilled peach, baked apple and sweet orange oil waM from the glass, all laced with threads of toasted oak and baking spice. The ample acidity keeps the palate lively and the Gnish fresh, although the woody accents dominate the close once the ripe fruit Havors subside. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Bouchard Finlayson 2009 Crocodile’s Lair Kaaimansgat Chardonnay (Overberg). This leads with oak-derived aromas of sweet smoke, toast, vanilla and baking spice, immediately followed by notes of lemon custard, melon and pear Hesh. The mouthfeel is round and full, but zippy acidity rescues the Gnish from feeling Hat or overdone. An attractive toasted hazelnut Havor lingers well through the Gnish. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

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Springfield Estate 2009 Méthode Ancienne Chardonnay (Robertson). A mature selection by now, this oIers initial scents of cantaloupe, mango and yellow Howers, with secondary hints of toasted nuts and brioche. It’s balanced and layered, with subtle oak and leesy accents intertwined with pure, ripe fruit Havors. Enjoy this now while the

primary fruit is still shining. Vinecraf Distribution LLC. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $42

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Spier 2010 21 Gables Pinotage (Stellenbosch). For full review see page 75. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

on the lengthy Gnish. Drink now–2016. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $36

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Elgin Vintners 2010 Third Edition Chardonnay (Elgin). This is a ripe and seductive Chardonnay, with great opulence to the palate and lush fruit characteristics of red-apple fesh, clovespiked orange and creamy pear. Hints of toasted challah and sweet spice add depth and interest, while ample acidity keeps the generous mouthfeel in line and the fnish clean. Z Wines USA. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

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Springfield Estate 2009 Wild Yeast Chardonnay (Robertson). Despite the age of this wine, it’s still bright and lively, with clean and upfront aromas and Havors of orange citrus, white melon rind, white peach and frm pear. The palate is vibrant and fresh, with mouthwatering acidity that follows through to the toast-laced fnish. Vinecraf Distribution LLC. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $21

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KWV 2011 Classic Collection Chardonnay (Western Cape). For full review see page 77. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

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Neil Ellis 2011 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). A clean and bright selection, this leads with direct aromas of green apple, lemon and sof grass. The palate is brisk and lively, with pineapple acidity and a tart green-plum accent. Overall, this is light, refreshing and easy drinking. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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KWV 2011 The Mentors Chardonnay (Elgin). Direct aromas of lime, green apple, melon rind and pressed Howers unfold in the bouquet, while Havors of orange zest, sweet spice and melon Hesh develop on the palate. The medium-weight mouth could use a bit more lif, as could the Hat fnish. KWV Int’l. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $72

PINOTAGE

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Simonsig 2011 Redhill Pinotage (Stellenbosch). For full review see page 71. Editors’

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Simonsig 2010 Redhill Pinotage (Stellenbosch). Scents of ripe black cherry and raspberry are at the center of the bouquet, with attractive accents of fudgy brownie, caramel, coIee and baking spice. The palate boasts a velvety texture, with medium tannins and a lush, ripe blackfruit core. Hints of cured meat and toasty mocha linger long on the close. Quintessential Wines. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $36

Beyerskloof 2010 Reserve Pinotage (Stellenbosch). Ripe forest-fruit aromas are upfront, easily supporting the ample woody spice and toasted character. The palate is fruit-forward, with the black plum core taking center stage to the licorice and anise accents. The fne tannins and juicy fruit Havors make this approachable and enjoyable now. Total Beverage Solution. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Fairview 2010 Primo Pinotage (Paarl). Initial brambly berry aromas are partnered with hints of smoky bacon and caramel sauce. The Havors are solid and ripe but not overdone, with attractive notes of blackberry and wild cherry. The medium tannins and ample acidity lend good balance and texture to the wine, while a pleasant astringency lingers on the fnish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $29

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KWV 2011 Classic Collection Pinotage (Western Cape). For full review see page 77. Best

Buy. abv: 14.5%

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Simonsig 2011 Merindol Syrah (Stellenbosch). This wine is immediately attractive and seductive, with forward Horal notes of crushed iris and violet that are supported by a decadent ripe-fruit core of black raspberry, wild cherry and boysenberry. Woody tones of toasted coconut and vanilla add richness to the dense, fully structured palate, while hints of black pepper and cocoa nib blossom on the Gnish. Delicious now, but should age well through 2018. Quintessential Wines. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $42

Price: $11

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The Grinder 2011 Pinotage (Western Cape). This is a lush, opulent and oaky Pinotage, with assertive aromas of mocha, raspberry cream and chocolate-covered cherry. The texture is satiny and smooth, with medium yet fne tannins and a richness to the palate thanks to Havors of raspberry coulis, mocha sauce, sweet spice and just a hint of pepper. USA Wine West. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

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Mullineux 2010 Schist Syrah (Swartland). Part of Mullineux’s new lineup of singlevineyard Syrahs, this really expresses a sense of terroir, with a strong mineral streak that permeates throughout the wine. Pure, precise red-fruit aromas and Havors of small red berries and currants support herbal notes of white pepper, sous bois and savory herbs, with a hint of gaminess in the background. Still tight and reserved, this should shine aMer a bit more time; drink aMer 2016. Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $128

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Mullineux 2010 Granite Syrah (Swartland). Part of Mullineux’s new lineup of singlevineyard Syrahs, this is a nuanced wine, requiring time to fully open and thought to process the depth of character. Earthy tones of sous bois, fynbos and red forest fruit dance in the bouquet, while the medium-weight palate oIers Gne-grain tannins and tightly wound Havors of pepper, leather and cherry skin. There’s good acidic liM to the close, followed promptly by peppery spice. Drink now–2018. Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $128

Fairview 2008 The Beacon Shiraz (Paarl). This wine is immediately attractive, with initial aromas of ripe cherry, plum and berry fruits that are spiced with hints of Thin Mint, licorice and black pepper. Plush, but not overdone, the mouthfeel is like crushed velvet, with black cherry-skin and raspberry Havors and fne yet structured tannins. Glimmers of sweet smoke and black tea unfold

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Mullineux 2010 Syrah (Swartland). This wine opens with a strong herbaceous character, as scents of forest Hoor and menthol accent the red plum and cherry core. Fine tannins and medium weight make this an accessible wine now, with hints of black pepper and licorice spice that develop on the Gnish. Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $33

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Spier 2011 Vintage Selection Shiraz (Western Cape). Here’s a dense and concentrated selection at an attractive price point, with direct aromas and Havors of black plum, boysenberry, bramble and violet. The palate is slightly lush and creamy, but texturized by medium tannins and spicy accents of licorice and toast on the close. Total Wine & More. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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Backsberg 2008 Pumphouse Shiraz (Coastal Region). Herbal scents of briary berry and forest Hoor mingle with notes of mulled boysenberry, raspberry, sweet smoke and cured meat. The Gnish is dry and gripping, with a peppery note that stays through the close. Marquee Selections. —L.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $23

CABERNETS & BLENDS

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Ernie Els 2008 Signature (Stellenbosch). This is a dark, dense and brooding Bordeaux-style blend, comprised of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Franc. Notes of cocoa, cigar tobacco and leather jazz up the black-fruit core of

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BUYINGGUIDE cassis, black plum and berry. The palate is full and gripping, with frm tannins that hang on tightly through the long and slightly smoky fnish. Drink afer decanting now, or enjoy through 2018. Terlato Wines International. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $95

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Kanonkop 2008 Paul Sauer (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot, this is a dense and brooding wine, with dark notes of cassis, licorice, black plum, date and cigar-box spice on the nose and in the mouth. The palate is frmly structured, with medium tannins and balanced alcohol that lend the wine a crushed-velvet texture. Glimmers of charred oak and toasted spice linger long on the Gnish. Delicious now, but should develop more layer and nuance with time; drink through 2018. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

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Rust en Vrede 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). Attractive fragrances of mulled berries, cassis and black cherry lead the fruity bouquet of this wine, with added interest from supporting notes of sweet smoke, pepper and licorice root. The mouthfeel is creamy and full, but with ample tannin and acidity to provide structure and lend a gripping texture. Ripe favors of plum, Gg, cassis, black tea and leather food the palate and linger long on the Gnish. Drink now–2018. Terlato Wines International. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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Rustenberg 2010 John X Merriman (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). Rustenberg’s Bordeaux-style blend, made with 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc, is a complex and layered wine, with waves of black fruit and earthy spice that dance endlessly on the nose and mouth. Heady notes of blackberry, boysenberry, cassis and Gg are spiced by accents of cocoa, tobacco and sweet, charred wood. It’s balanced and well structured, with a velvety texture and a peppery Gnish. Drink now–2020. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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KWV 2010 The Mentors Orchestra (Western Cape). A ripe and sultry selection, this offers upfront oak-derived notes of vanilla, toasted nut, sweet cedar and chocolate sauce. Fruity tones of brandied cherry, mashed raspberry and blackberry preserve provide a solid backbone for the woody, spicy character. The lush, full palate oIers waves of tobacco and leather that carry through to the medium-length Gnish. KWV Int’l. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $72

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Raats Family 2010 Cabernet Franc (Stellenbosch). Pure and focused, Bruwer Raats’s love of and attention to Cabernet Franc results in a wine that always impresses, and is a bit of an anomaly in the South African wine world. Bright notes of red cherry and currant unfold on the nose and

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mouth, with accents of ashy tobacco, foliage, pepper and just the faintest suggestion of vanilla bean. Medium weight, with dry, dusty tannins that lend grip to the Gnish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $35

astringent tannins. The Gnish is short, but clean. KWV Int’l. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

CHILE

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Spier 2010 Creative Block 5 (Coastal Region). For full review see page 75. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

SAUVIGNON BLANC

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Excelsior 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Robertson). A fragrance of crushed violet adds interest to the jammy blackberry, plum and cherry fruit core of this wine. Hints of licorice root, bramble and peppery spice unfold on the creamy palate, with ripe yet gripping tannins that remain on the Gnish. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $10 Raats Family 2010 Red Jasper (Coastal Region). This Cabernet Franc-dominant blend, with additional splashes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec, leads with earthy tones of menthol, black-currant leaf and tobacco. There’s ample black-fruit Havors to support the herbal core—think blackberry, plum and cassis—all framed by medium tannins and a clean, peppery Gnish. Drink now–2016. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Riebeek Cellars 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Swartland). Vibrant and expressive, this oIers initial aromas of blackberry, cassis and boysenberry that are matched with spicy hints of licorice root, black pepepr and cigar-box spice. The palate is round and slightly creamy, but framed by medium tannins and a long, toasty Gnish. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $10

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Camberley 2009 Philosophers’ Stone (Stellenbosch). A blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a soM, red-fruited wine, with lively aromas and Havors of cherry, plum and currant, all laced with hints of tobacco leaf, toast and bittersweet chocolate. The mouthfeel is creamy and the tannins Gne and Heeting. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $26

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Robertson Winery 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Robertson). Powerful notes of tobacco leaf and curing spice lead the bouquet of this value wine, with a backbone of cassis, black cherry and plum. Medium tannins oIer grip and texture to the palate, while coIee and toasted oak Havors Hood the Gnish. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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African Passion 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Western Cape). Aromas of blackcurrant leaf, plum and pepper are apparent on the nose of this value-priced wine. The palate is light but Grm, with Havors of red plum and cherry wrapped in

Leyda 2013 Single Vineyard Garuma Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Snappy aromas of citrus and lime come with minerality on a bouquet that’s pungent but doesn’t punch. This feels clean, friendly and well built; Havors of lime, tangerine and mango Gnish persistent, with no breakdowns. This is what top Chilean SB is all about. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Leyda 2013 Classic Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Tropical more than green and pungent, this fragrant wine oIers powdery, sweet notes and stronger coastal ones. It’s lean and angular in feel, with oceanic Havors of nettle, tangerine and lemon. A light green Havor and a chalky feel make up the Gnish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

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San Pedro 2013 1865 Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Pungent and snappy up front, with grapefruit and nettle aromas, this is classic Leyda Sauvignon Blanc on the bouquet. On the palate, this is fresh, juicy and upright. Well-cut Havors of green pea, lime and tangerine Gnish pithy and Grm. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

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Garces Silva 2013 Boya Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Tight, gritty, steely aromas of nettle and ocean mist allow for a modest amount of citrus fruit to poke through. A narrow, high-acid palate may peel back the enamel on your teeth, while Havors of sour green apple and gooseberry Gnish shear and tart. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

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Santa Carolina 2013 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). For full review see page 77. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $12

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Quintay 2013 Clava Coastal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Crisp, spicy, grassy, citrus aromas are all good. This is acidic and cleansing; zesty Havors of orange and pineapple Gnish nervy, pithy and a touch bitter. For patio-ready SB, this is ideal. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

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Viña Bisquertt 2013 La Joya Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). Aromas of grass and green citrus fruits are just pungent enough. This is basic but lively in the mouth,

with grassy favors and citrus notes of grapefruit and lime. A chalky fnish is cleansing. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Viña Casablanca 2013 Nimbus Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Grassy aromas blend with tropical fruit notes to create a good but regular Casablanca bouquet. This feels lively and easy to take, while favors of green herbs, grass and citrus Gnish a touch bitter, evidence of a cool vintage. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

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Anakena 2013 Enco Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). This is a bit vegetal on the nose, where nectarine aromas compete with greener notes of canned beans and asparagus. In the mouth, this is oily in feel, while favors of green fruits trend toward herbaceous. A minerally Gnish with citrus favors and herbal leMovers is what you’d expect. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

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Anakena 2013 Tama Vineyard Selection Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). This is adequately pungent on the nose, with a touch of the veggies. The palate is modest in acidity but not fat or fabbby. Flavors of green fruits mix with a hint of asparagus, while controlled capsicum and bitterness work the Gnish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

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Arboleda 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Aconcagua Valley). Briny aromas of lime, jalapeño and minerals Glter into a juicy, acidic palate with favors that match the nose: briny citrus, lime and bell pepper. A narrow feeling Gnish turns pithy and bitter the longer this sits. Thiénot USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Máscara de Feugo 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Uncommitted aromas of citrus, generic green herbs and vanilla set up a fresh, slightly feshy palate with lemon-lime favors. Citrusy on the Gnish, this is good, functional SB to drink right away. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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Palo Alto 2013 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley). Every vintage this wine pulls the same score, so there’s something to be said about consistency. This bottling is neutral on the nose, with hints of dust and melon. The palate is clean and citrusy in feel, with melon and green herb notes. An easy Gnish seems right given the precedings. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

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Tololo 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Curicó Valley). With grapefruit and orange aromas, this is on the ripe side, but the feel is fresh and favors of citrus, white pepper, arugula and briny melon get the job done. Drink this quaIer soon and it will sat-

isfy; hold it too long and it will lose its fresh character. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

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William Cole 2013 Albamar Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Grassy, straw-like aromas oIer bits of lime and orange. This is light, juicy and tangy. Flavors of lime, tart apple, grapefruit and kiwi Gnish with stony minerality and lasting lemon-lime notes. Global Vineyard Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

CHARDONNAY

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Leyda 2012 Single Vineyard Falaris Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Leyda Valley). Peach, apple and oak aromas are true and good. This is full and ripe, but it also shows minerality and vital acidity. Melon and tropical fruit favors blend in tighter and juicier apple and nectarine notes, while the Gnish is woody but honest. Drink during 2014. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

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Château Los Boldos 2013 Cuvée Tradition Chardonnay (Cachapoal Valley). Dusty apple aromas are nice for this level of wine. A round, solid mouthfeel is a plus, while favors of melon, apple and nectarine come with light oak and vanilla oIsets. A pithy, melony Gnish concludes this easygoing Chardonnay. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

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Merino 2012 Limestone Hill Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). Resiny oak, cinnamon and white-fruit aromas are solid. This is juicy and minerally in the mouth, with plenty of barrel weight for cushion. Flavors of apple, citrus and oak Gnish minerally but with some dilution of favor. Drink during 2014. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

CARMENÈRE

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Concha y Toro 2010 Terrunyo Entre Cordilleras Peumo Vineyard Block 27 Carmenère (Peumo). Mossy, lightly herbal aromas of blackberry and marzipan are attractive. This is rich, loud and racy in the mouth, with vanilla, tobacco, plum and berry Havors that Gnish long and ride elegantly on a beam of slightly sharp acidity. Drink this Gne Carmenère through 2016. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Santa Carolina 2009 Herencia Carmenère (Peumo). Keeping with past performances, Herencia is again one of Chile’s best Carmenères. This is bold, toasty and ripe on the nose, with tobacco and vanilla nuances. The palate is huge but in shape, while toasty, chocolaty Havors of herbal plum and berry end chewy, stacked and deep. Drink through 2016. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $90

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San Pedro 2010 Tierras Moradas Carmenère (Maule Valley). Plum, berry, licorice and balsamic aromas are earthy and classy. This feels chunky and heavy but not ponderous. Flavors of prune, rooty spices, mint and chocolate Gnish with mocha and Gg notes. Enjoy this ripe, full-bodied wine anytime through 2017. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Santa Rita 2008 Pehuén Carmenère (Apalta). For full review see page 73. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Matetic 2012 Corralillo Chardonnay (San Antonio). Tropical fruit aromas come with nutty, oily grittiness. The palate is full and oaky, while core tropical Havors are barrel driven, honeyed and warm. This comes across as a warm-vintage wine, one with extra sweetness and an oily character. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Errazuriz 2012 Max Reserva Chardonnay (Aconcagua Valley). Hailing from a very warm vintage, this smells like buttered movie popcorn and baked apple. In the mouth, there’s adequate acidity and a touch of minerality. Flavors of tropical fruits run sweet and woody, while the Gnish drips honey and banana Havors. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Viu Manent 2010 El Incidente Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page

Chilcas 2010 Las Almas Carmenère (Maule Valley). Seductive aromas of blueberry, oregano and juniper are diIerent than the norm. This is concentrated and inky, with intense blackfruit Havors as well as notes of juniper berry and lemony oak. A lush, fruity Gnish is pure and jammy but not overly complex. Drink through 2016. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50 Concha y Toro 2010 Carmín de Peumo Carmenère (Peumo). Inky on the nose, with feral notes of animal fur, this is a concentrated fruit bomb from start to Gnish. Given that 2010 was a cold year, it’s not surpising that this wine would be closed at this early state; yet with mossy Havors and minty, oak-based notes of carob and mulberry, it’s showing good signs. Drink through 2017. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $200

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Siegel 2012 Single Vineyard Carmen•re (Colchagua Valley). Minty plum and berry aromas are herbal but ripe, with a note of chocolate and black tea. This is lush and layered, with top-end mouthfeel and herbal, foral favors of berry fruits and plum. A smooth, herbal tasting fnish is the fnale to a well-made, favorful wine. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

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Arboleda 2011 Carmen•re (Colchagua Valley). Raw-cut wood, vanilla, herbs and hard spice scents defne the nose on this quality Carmenère. In the mouth, tomatoey acidity is oIset by weighty berry fruit and creamy oak. Flavorwise, this is saucy, meaty, a touch stewy and herbal, just like the variety is known to be. Thiénot USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Concha y Toro 2011 Serie Riberas Gran Reserva Ribera del Cachapoal Carmen•re (Peumo). Olive, spice and black-plum aromas come with some grit and savory accents. This is well packed and voluminous; favors of olive, plum and wild berry fnish sturdy and smooth, with minty accents. For a good introduction to the positives of Carmenère, try this. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

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Undurraga 2012 Sibaris Reserva Especial Carmen•re (Colchagua Valley). Spicy, earthy cherry and cassis aromas are true to the variety. This is juicy, bright and substantive in feel, with red berry, oak spice and herbal favors. A minty, chocolaty fnish full of herbs and spices provides for a good ending. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

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Casa Silva 2012 Los Lingues Vineyard Carmen•re (Colchagua Valley). Herb, spice, wild berry and wood aromas set up a round palate that’s bigger than medium but not huge in size. Defnitive Carmenère Havors of herbs, wild berry and spiced plum fnish with moderate bitterness and tannic support. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Koyle 2011 Reserva Carmen•re (Colchagua Valley). Koyle Reserva shows the upside of Carmenère while not pushing too hard. Smoky aromas of roasted berry, graphite and olive are vociferous yet balanced. A layered, meaty palate is home to minty, resiny Havors of berry fruits, herbs and chocolate, while the fnish is oaky, toasty and attractive. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

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Montes 2011 Alpha Marchigue Vineyard Carmen•re (Colchagua Valley). Earthy, baked aromas of ripe berry, raisin and leather come with a tobacco note. This is nice given the cold weather that drove the 2011 vintage. Round tannins and overall balance provide bedding for spicy Havors of

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blackberry, herbal notes, licorice and oak. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Drink through 2015. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Ventisquero 2010 Grey [Glacier] Single Block Trinidad Vineyard Carmen•re (Maipo Valley). Aromas are drawn and mildly green in nature. In the mouth, this is soM and stewy, with as much green herb and mint as berry fruit and richness. On the Gnish, this feels syrupy but tastes a bit like salad, with candied sweetness thrown in. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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San Pedro 2011 1865 Single Vineyard Carmen•re (Maule Valley). Spicy, tarry, gritty aromas of asphalt and olive drive the bouquet. This feels ripe and full bodied, with stewed plum, herb and cardamom Havors. Toast, dark-berry Havors and mint are the key notes to the Gnish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Von Siebenthal 2010 Tatay de Crist—bal Carmen•re (Aconcagua Valley). Forgetting about the crazy price, this is a rustic wine with graphite, green herb, tobacco and marzipan aromas. The mouthfeel is hard and resiny, while Havors of blue fruits, graphite and oak Gnish green, candied and sweet. Overall, this is a particular wine that requires patience and digging. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $200 Santa Rita 2009 Medalla Real Gran Reserva Carmen•re (Colchagua Costa). Heady, oaky, pushy aromas of green-leaning red-berry fruits and coIee grinds are earthy and strong. This is concentrated in the mouth, and also pasty and resiny in feel. Flavors of lactic oak, cardamom and blackberry Gnish with vanilla sweetness and a lasting wave of wood. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

Vi–a Tarapac‡ 2011 Gran Reserva Carmen•re (Maipo Valley). Savory, spicy aromas of saucy fruit, fennel and sausage are gamy, herbal and interesting. This is plush and big on the palate, with weight and depth. Flavors of spiced plum and berry are ripe given that 2011 was a cool year for warm-weather varieties like this. Tre Vigne Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

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Vi–a Casablanca 2011 Neblus Syrah (Casablanca Valley). This cool-vintage Syrah is lightly herbal and complex up front, with blueberry and boysenberry aromas. Compact and tight in the mouth, this is Grm and shows no leaks or weak spots. Herbal plum and berry Havors Gnish toasty, and the overall feel is Grm, serious and in balance.

Koyle 2009 Royale Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Cassis, red licorice candy and leather are the key aromas on this full-bodied, ripe Syrah. Things run big but healthy on the tongue, while Havors of black fruits, toast, coconut and chocolate announce plenty of oak. A rich, persistent Gnish is just bright enough. Drink through 2015. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 Ventisquero 2009 Pangea Apalta Vineyard Syrah (Colchagua Valley). From a warm vintage, this Syrah is raisiny and jammy up front but more staunch and structured as it opens. Aromas of baked fruits arrive at a big, saturated palate full of blackberry, vanilla and coconut Havors. Cherry, chocolate and graphite work the Gnish on this ripe, warm wine. Drink through 2016. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Montes 2011 Alpha Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Meaty, dry, lightly herbal berry aromas are reserved and not too pushy. This is choppy feeling on the palate, with pointed acids. Flavors of herbal berry, dark plum, coconut, chocolate and oak Gnish fresh, long, juicy and oaky. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

Santa Rita 2009 Reserva Syrah (Maipo Valley). There’s a lot of fruit to this New World Syrah. Cherry, cassis and berry aromas are fresh and forward, while in the mouth, this is full but not overly demanding or exact. Flavors of cherry and plum come with creamy oak notes of vanilla, while the Gnish is crisp in feel but generic in Havor. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Santa Alicia 2012 Reserva Shiraz (Maipo Valley). Forceful aromas of pie crust and heavy berry fruits are clumsy but generous. There’s elastic tightness to the palate along with herbal berry Havors. The Gnish loses fruit while cranking up the toasty aMerburners. Halby Marketing. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

PINOT NOIR

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Veramonte 2011 Ritual Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Cherry, strawberry and light candied aromas are good but basic. This feels full and creamy, with oak, dry spice, cinnamon and earthy red-berry Havors. Spice notes and a Hat, chunky feel deGne the Gnish. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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Leyda 2012 Lot 21 Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). Medicinal, rubbery, oaky berry aromas are ripe by Leyda Pinot Noir standards. This is full in body and ofers much-needed grip and structure. Beefy, maximum-ripe favors of cherry and plum fnish earthy, leathery and a touch salty. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Leyda 2012 Single Vineyard Las Brisas Vineyard Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). Chunky cherry, cough drop and dusty aromas make for a ripe but alluring nose. This feels big and full, as will most 2012 Chilean Pinot Noirs; favors of baked black fruits and raspberry are about as rich and sweet as Pinot should ever get, while a smooth, chocolaty fnish is modest in terms of acidity. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

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Quintay 2012 Coastal Reserve Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Plum, cherry and strawberry aromas are light, true and minerally. This is a juicy, fresh, medium-weight wine with plum and raspberry. Nothing about this is pushy; overall, it’s a bright, liMed quafer that’s totally satisfying. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

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Undurraga 2012 Aliwen Reserva Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley-Maipo Valley). Leafy, dry, earthy aromas come in front of a bouncy, fresh palate. Plum, cherry and pomegranate favors drive this in the direction of red fruits, while the fnish is a little woody, dry and peppery. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

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Beach Kite 2012 Pinot Noir (Central Valley). For full review see page 77. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $7

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Indomita 2011 Duette Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Light strawberry aromas are a bit green and herbal. The mouthfeel is fresh but dilute, while favors of oak and creamy tasting red-berry fruits fnish frm but without a lot of depth. This is good for quafng but doesn’t go beyond that. Laird & Company. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

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La Playa 2011 Block Selection Reserve Block N. 16 Pinot Noir (Limarí Valley). Neutral aromas are clean but devoid of specifc fruit scents. This is regular in feel, with a bit of chunky weight. Baked, earthy favors of black fruits and cocoa lose steam on a fnish that turns soM and a little sticky. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

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Leyda 2012 Single Vineyard Cahuil Vineyard Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). Baked, leathery aromas of animal hide and sun-drenched berries set up a ripe, slightly out of shape palate with favors of raspberry, plum and apple skins. A sweet tasting, tutti-frutti fnish is short and basic. This reads like

a wine from a hot year, which 2012 was. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

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Santa Luz 2011 Reserva Encinos Pinot Noir (Central Valley). Earthy, leathery aromas include rubber and olive along with plum and raspberry. This is medium bodied and good in feel, while favors of earthy, slightly salty plum and berry fnish blocky and monotone. The Country Vintner-CraM and Estate. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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Undurraga 2012 U Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Maipo Valley). Leafy, spicy red-berry aromas suggest asphalt. This is pleasant on the palate, with rubbery tannins. Flavors of rose water, raspberry and plum are light and foral, while the fnish is easygoing. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $11

CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY

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Alta Maria 2012 Bien Nacido Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This bottling shows rich kumquat, peach, pear and mango favors, along with the brisk acidity of a well-grown Santa Maria Chardonnay. Yet it has the extra features of minerality and fintiness that make it especially memorable. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $38

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Rusack 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This reserve wine was made from grapes grown in the same Bien Nacido and Sierra Madre vineyards as Rusack’s regular 2012 Chardonnay, but it was produced in much smaller quantities, and it’s a distinctly richer wine. Aged in ample new French oak, it has a toasty, caramelized opulence that the underlying tropical fruit, apricot, pear and citrus Havors are easily able to handle. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

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The Gardener 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is a fne Chardonnay that’s brisk with acidity and dry, yet rich with Havors of tropical fruits, green apples, hazelnuts and toasty oak. There’s also a minerality that extends the fnish beautifully. You might want to give it a year or two in the cellar. The grapes are from Marimar Torres’s esteemed Don Miguel Vineyard. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $35

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Alta Maria 2012 Rancho Viñedo Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This classic cool-climate California Chardonnay shows intensely concentrated kumquat, lime and peach Havors, oI set by bright acidity. There’s quite a bit of oak on it, but it’s balanced, and adds a pleasant layer of buttered toast Havor. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

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Hunnicutt 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 72. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

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Fort Ross 2011 Fort Ross Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). This is a big Chardonnay that’s oaky and ripe with fruit. Flavors of cream, lees, toast, Mandarin oanges, apricots and stewed peaches all mingle together in a spicy, complex and dry wine. Four additional years in the cellar will allow it to integrate beautifully. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $60

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Fort Ross 2011 Fort Ross Vineyard Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Made from grapes grown in a coastal, cool-climate vineyard, this Chardonnay is gracefully minerally and acidic. It has all the tart, wet-stone tang you could want, along with intense quince, golden mango and Asian pear fruitiness. This lovely wine is worth every cent of its price. EditorsÕ Choice. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $42

Three Sticks 2011 Durell Vineyard Origin Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). This is possibly the richest, ripest unoaked Chardonnay ever made in California. It’s so powerful with tropical fruit, lemon drop, lime, peach and honey Havors, it might just blow your mind. High acidity adds balance and gives the wine mouthwatering tartness. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

Rusack 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Flashy and opulent in style, this Chardonnay is full of ripe apricot, Meyer lemon, white peach and oak Havors. It would be quite a fruit bomb were it not for superb acidity and a mineral tang—like a lick of cold steel. The grapes are exclusively from the Bien Nacido and Sierra Madre vineyards, two of the best in the Santa Maria Valley. EditorsÕ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $24 Sonoma Cuvée 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Put this Chardonnay in a blind tasting with Chards two or three times its price, and it will easily hold its own. It’s dry, crisp and balanced, with a creamy mouthfeel framing Meyer lemon, lime, pineapple and papaya Havors. What a great price for such a sophisticated Chardonnay. EditorsÕ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Manzoni 2012 North Highlands Cuvée Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Intensely ripe with fruit, this is Manzoni’s best Chardonnay yet. Previous vintages may have had greater elegance and precision, but this one shines spotlight on a rich mélange of tropical fruit Havors, along with peaches and cream. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

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BUYINGGUIDE

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Sonoma Cuvée 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). This Chardonnay takes favors of Meyer lemon, lime, papaya and buttered toast, and carries them over the fnish line with a drive of acidity, minerality and complexity. Finishing dry and crisp, it’s a wonderful wine with an everyday price that makes it a stunning value. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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Testarossa 2011 Cuvée Los Gatos Chardonnay (Monterey County). Although priced considerably less than Testarossa’s single-vineyard bottlings, this Chard is nearly as good. It’s rich with tropical fruits, vanilla custard, buttered toast and cinnamon spice Havors, all brightened by crisp acidity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $23

Chardonnay, enough to give it hints of smoke and buttered toast. The palate is dominated by Havors of tropical fruits, citrus, peaches and green apples, balanced with crisp lime-juice acidity. It’s an elegant, dry Chard at a good price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

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Three Sticks 2011 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). Aged in 60% new French oak and made with a good dose of malolactic fermentation, this Chardonnay is dominated buttered toast and popcorn Havors. It’s an opulent style of Chardonnay, but obscures pleasant Havors of tropical fruit, pear and apricot. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

VIOGNIER

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River Road 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The 2012 reserve costs only $3 more than the regular bottling, but it’s a richer wine balanced with bright, citrusy acidity. The palate is dry with Havors of Bosc pears, green apples, vanilla cream and toasted marshmallows. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $19

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Sante Arcangeli 2012 Bald Mountain Vineyard Chardonnay (Ben Lomond Mountain). This Chardonnay is almost Chablisian—it’s bone dry, bristling with acidity, and modest in alcohol. There’s a lick of minerality to the lemon peel, apricot and buttered toast Havors that makes the wine tangy. It’s ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

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Alta Maria 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Alta Maria’s appellation bottling is a bit leaner than the winery’s single-vineyard bottlings, but quite elegant, with Hint, pink grapefruit, mango and spearmint Havors, enhanced by a touch of oak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

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Bianchi 2012 El Camino Vineyard Signature Selection Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). There’s a little oak on this Chard, but you can hardly detect it. The Havors are all about ripe pineapples, oranges, peaches and apricots, accented by crisp acidity. A fne example of coastal California Chardonnay, it will marry well with grilled salmon. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

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Kobler 2012 Viognier (Russian River Valley). This is a very fne expression of Viognier, showing an intensity of Havors, but maintaining balance, elegance, and a dry profle. Waves of honeysuckle, oranges, limes, pears and oak are oIset by minerality and acidity. Richly extracted, it will pair well with scallop, lobster and crab entrées. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

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Miraflores 2012 Estate Viognier (El Dorado). While forward with stonefruit and honey, along with toasty oak and vanilla notes, this is a structured Viognier that’s crisp and fresh. Drink with Thai food or buttery lobster. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

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Stark 2012 Damiano Vineyard Viognier (Sierra Foothills). This wine was fermented half in stainless steel and half in neutral oak, and did not undergo malolactic fermentation. The result is a textured, rich explosion of honeysuckle, spice and lemon zest Havors that fnishes with a minerally, Hinty character. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

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Larner 2011 Estate Grown Viognier (Santa Ynez Valley). This dry, powerful 100% Viognier dazzles with intensely ripe Meyer lemon, lime, peach, honeysuckle and oak Havors. With crisp acidity for balance, it’s an opulent wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $28

SAUVIGNON BLANC

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MacRostie 2011 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). The frst impression this Chardonnay oIers is of sweet oak with powerful notes of buttered toast and butterscotch. Underneath you’ll fnd Havors of pineapple and pear jam. It’s not a subtle wine, but it is delicious. Drink now with lobster or crab. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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River Road 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). There’s just a touch of oak on this

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One Three 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This is the kind of wine that tastes like no eIort was spared in its production. It’s impeccably made, with clean, ripe fruit, crisp acidity and a nice touch of oak. The palate is full of California-ripe Meyer lemons and peaches with a touch of New Zealand gooseberry. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

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McFadden Vineyard 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Potter Valley). Aromatically reminiscent of creme brûlée, this delightful Mendocino-grown wine, made from organically grown grapes, is crisp, clean and bright with grapefruit Havor. Textured, and with some Hesh to its bones, it should pair especially well with wintertime shellfsh. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

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Shannon Ridge 2012 High Elevation Collection Sauvignon Blanc (High Valley). While creamy in texture, and with rich vanilla, honey and pear Havors, this SB has a cleansing citrus mid-palate where it’s crisp, bright personality shines through. Well priced and well made, this is a good representative of Lake County’s new High Valley AVA. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

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Alpha Omega 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Cabernet specialist Alpha Omega is increasingly showing a knack with Sauvignon Blanc. This vintage shows crisp acidity and a dry palate with Havors of citrus, tropical fruit, grass, honey and oak. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38

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Angel’s Secret 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (High Valley). There’s lots of grapefruit and kiwi Havor here, as well as a touch of creme brûlée. High toned in style, it has a rounded body, along with a suggestion of herbs. The fnish is long and satisfying. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $17

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El Roy 2010 Nelson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). With Havors of grass, grapefruits and tropical fruits, this is a lovely wine to drink now. It’s dry and savory, with a brisk hit of acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

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Merry Edwards 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). High-toned gooseberry, pear, papaya and fg Havors mark this dry, but creamy Sauvignon Blanc. It’s rich with fruit, yet dry on the fnish with brisk acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $32

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Wellington 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Valley). This beautiful Sauvignon Blanc is for drinking now. It’s brisk in acidity, with pineapple, lemon, grapefruit, grass and vanilla Havors that are honeyed but fnish dry. This tantalizing wine will nicely accompany today’s Asian fusion fare. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Kelly Fleming 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Some oak barrel inHuence lends a creamy, smoky note to the citrus and tropical fruit Havors in this 100% Sauvignon Blanc. It’s brisk with acidity and dry in style, making it a versatile wine at the dinner table. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $36

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Uppercut 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). This is a light, tropical Sauvignon Blanc that’s widely distributed. The palate is marked by pleasant layers of pineapple, guava and melon. On the fnish a streak of lemon lingers awhile. A great wine for parties, picnics and other casual gatherings. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

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Waterstone 2012 Pinot Gris (Napa Valley). For full review see page 76. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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River Road 2012 Reserve Un-Oaked Pinot Gris (Russian River Valley). A note of petrol might make you think this was Riesling, but no, it’s Pinot Gris, and a Gne one, with that oily note accompanying citrus, honey and white licorice favors, leading to a dry, spicy Gnish. A minor criticism is that the acidity could be higher. But it will be wonderful with pan-Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $16

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Ferrari-Carano 2012 Pinot Grigio (Sonoma County). There’s a touch of honeyed sweetness to this Pinot Grigio, but it Gnishes dry and clean with acidity. The Meyer lemon, honeydew, peach and green apple Havors are sunny and rip. It’s a nice wine to drink with southeast Asian and fusion fare. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $17

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Santa Barbara Winery 2012 Thompson Vineyard Pinot Gris (Santa Barbara County). Rich and extracted, this Pinot Gris is full of Havors of tropical fruit, pear jam, vanilla, honey and buttered cinnamon toast. It’s lush, if a little one dimensional, but brisk acidity gives it a bracing Gnish. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $17

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Terlato 2012 Pinot Grigio (Russian River Valley). This is an easy, fruity wine with sharp acidity that balances ripe Havors of citrus, tropical fruits, peaches, honeysuckle and vanilla bean. It Gnishes a little oI-dry. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

SYRAH

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Black Cat 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). For full review see page 69. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

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Joseph Phelps 2010 Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard Syrah (Napa Valley). Phelps’ basic 2010 Napa Syrah is good, but this single-vineyard bottling is considerably richer. It’s immense with Havors of Bing cherries, red currants, mocha and sandalwood, along with hints of bacon and black

pepper. The tannins are such that you want to age it for about six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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Porter Family Vineyards 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). This superb Syrah, is a great followup to the 2009 bottling. There are incredibly ripe Havors of blackberry jam, currant, chocolate and toast, along with notes of grilled bacon and black pepper. The tannins are so rich and Gne, you can drink this wine now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $49

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Peju 2011 Syrah (Napa Valley). The Peju style is of soM, ripe voluptuousness, making this the kind of wine that’s enormously attractive to drink now. This ’11 Syrah is immediately appealing for its raspberry, cherry and oak Havors, but it’s the mouthfeel that’s special. With modest alcohol, it feels smooth, silky and clean. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

Havors of cranberry, plum and pepper. On the Gnish is a hint of smoky oak. ProGts from sales of the wine go to the American River Conservancy Wakamatsu Colony Preservation and Restoration project. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $75

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Mi Sueño 2008 Syrah (Napa Valley). This 100% Syrah is drinking so lush and opulent now, it’s hard to see it developing any further. The fruit is from Coombsville vineyards, and the wine shows a brisk tannin-acid structure framing ripe Havors of cherries, currants, mocha and sweet new oak. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

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Ascension Cellars 2010 Mayhem Syrah (Paso Robles). There’s lots of upfront blackberry, currant and cherry fruit in this Syrah, along with savory, meaty notes of sweet bacon and charred meat. With complex tannins but fairly soM acidity, it’s an ambitious, delicious wine. —S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $56

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Joseph Phelps 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). This is a Gne Syrah from a producer with a long history of success with the Rhône variety. It’s inky and dark in color with a palate that’s tannic and dry, with long, deep, spicy Havors of blackberries, grilled meat, black pepper and toasty oak. It will provide good drinking with grilled meats and stews over the next two years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

Larner 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). The heat and glycerine of high alcohol are integral parts of this 100% Syrah. The wine is big, juicy, jammy and frankly delicious, offering endless waves of cassis, chocolate, blueberries, black licorice, black pepper and vanilla-scented oak that last through a long, spicy Gnish. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $38

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Morgan 2011 Double L Vineyard Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). The inky black color testiGes to the intensely extracted, tannic Havors of this Syrah. It’s gigantic on the palate with Havors of blackberry and blueberry jam, cassis and new oak that Gnish rich and fruity. Right now, it’s forward and brash, but give it a few years in the cellar to mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $42

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Signorello 2011 Estate Grown and Bottled Syrah (Napa Valley). This Syrah is exceptionally rich with Havors of cherries, blackberries, mocha and smoked meat, all touched with a hint of oak. It’s tannins and acids provide excellent structure. A deliciously complex wine to drink now and over the next few years. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $51

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David Girard 2010 Okei-San Syrah (El Dorado). This is a European-style Syrah, cofermented with 2% Viognier. It’s soM and round, medium in body, and has a savory midpalate with

Kobler 2010 Reserve Syrah (Russian River Valley). There’s lots to like in this Syrah. Although it’s severely tannic, it has Gne blackberry jam, cola and plum Havors, brightened with brisk acidity and enriched with smoky oak. It doesn’t seem like an ager, so enjoy now with beef. —S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $48 Richard Perry 2011 Syrah (Coombsville). You’ll Gnd plenty of crushed summer blackberries, black pepper and grilled meat Havors in this Syrah. It’s dry in style and elegant in structure. The wine has a grip of tannins that suggests pairing with rich game. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

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Sobon Estate 2011 Syrah (Amador County). This is a satisfying Syrah with profound notes of white pepper that ease smoothly from the nose to the palate. Beyond savory, earthy characteristics, there is also bright raspberry too. Priced fairly, there’s no reason not to give it a try. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

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Westerly 2011 Côte Blonde Syrah (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This wine makes reference to certain vineyards in France’s cult CôteRôtie. The Havors are immaculate, suggesting fully ripened blackberries and currants, grilled wild mushrooms, black pepper and sweet oak. The tannins are thick and tough, but beautiful enough to warrant aging. One troubling aspect is acidity. It’s very strong, and may take some time to smoothen out. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Acorn 2010 Axiom Alegria Vineyards Syrah (Russian River Valley). Hugely extracted with blackberries, cherries, blueberries and chocolate, this wine immediately impresses for its sheer power. Oak and high alcohol are key components to

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BUYINGGUIDE this powerful wine, but pour it with barbecue, and nobody will complain. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $34

growing earthier and more complex. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $52

can drink it now if you want, but give it an hour or so in a decanter. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $42

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Morgan 2011 GI7 Syrah (Monterey). This is a new bottling for Morgan, and appeals for it’s reasonable price. It’s blended creatively with Tempranillo and Grenache making it complex with Havors of cherry, currant, sweet tea, cola and exotic spices. It’s dry in style with big, tough tannins and high acidity, but it’s not likely to develop in the cellar, so drink it now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

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Vie Winery 2010 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Blackberry and blueberry jam and sweet oak Havors mark this young Syrah. It’s dry, tannic and juicy, but a little soM in acidity. Drink it now and over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

PINOT NOIR

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Merry Edwards 2011 Coopersmith Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). What’s so wonderful about this Pinot is the way it reconciles all sorts of opposites. It’s dry but sweet in fruit, and delicate yet potent at the same time. It’s totally accessible now, but enormously complex. Flavors of raspberries and cherries meld with pomegranates and persimmons, as well as mushrooms, tea and licorice. It’s a joy to drink now, and should develop in the cellar for at least 10 years. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $60

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Joseph Phelps 2011 Quarter Moon Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 67. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.4% Price: $75

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Sante Arcangeli 2012 Split Rail Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). For full review see page 68. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

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Fort Ross 2010 Bicentennial Bottling Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This commemorates the original Russian settlement of Fort Ross. The wine is dry, intense and delicious, showing brisk acidity and tannins that frame ripe raspberry, cherry and pomegranate Havors. It’s Gne to drink now, but will develop bottle complexity over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

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Fort Ross 2010 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Released a year aMer their spectacular Sea Slopes bottling, this small production Pinot shows the elegance of the far Sonoma Coast, and also the ageworthiness of a Gne wine. Dry and crisp, it has deep Havors of cherries, pomegranates and persimmons that are fresh and tart. It will have no trouble negotiating the next six years,

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Joseph Phelps 2011 Pastorale Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The vineyard is located in the western part of Sonoma County, near the little town of Freestone. The cool 2011 vintage lends mouthwatering acidity to the wine, brightening Havors of red apples, pomegranates and persimmons. Right now, it’s juvenile and tight, with primary fruits that are unintegrated with oak. Give it at least eight years in the cellar, and it could be going strong at the age of GMeen. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $75 Dutton-Goldfield 2011 McDougall Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This young wine needs some time in the cellar. Released at the age of two years, it’s mouthwatering in acidity with fresh, juicy cranberry, raspberry jam and persimmon Havors that Gnish spicy and long. The alcohol is refreshingly low, adding to the delicate mouthfeel. Drink 2017 and beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $58

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Merry Edwards 2011 Georgeanne Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The grapes are from the winery’s youngest vineyard, which may be why the wine, good as it is, is a little direct. It’s brisk in acidity, with appealing, jammy Havors of raspberries, blueberries and ripe persimmons. Yet there are great complexities lurking beneath the surface. This surely is a bottling to watch in future vintages. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $57

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Merry Edwards 2011 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The Havors are deep and delicious in this Pinot with notes of cherries, currants and raspberries, along with a hint of raisins. It’s tannic enough to warrant a little time in the cellar. Your window begins to open in 2016, but this isn’t an extended ager. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $62

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Black Kite 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The new oak on this Pinot Noir dominates now with aromas and Havors of buttered toast and caramel. But underneath all that is a wine rich with raspberries, cherries, red licorice and mocha, and balanced with vital acidity. Give it a few years to let everything integrate. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $55

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Fort Ross 2011 Sea Slopes Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). You’ll Gnd deliciously ripe raspberry and cherry Havors in this wine, making it instantly appealing. Yet it’s so bright with acidity, and so deeply complex with earthy, mushroomy notes, it’s sure to gain some traction in the cellar over the next few years. You

Merry Edwards 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This isn’t one of Merry Edwards’ single-vineyard Pinots, but who cares? It’s a magniGcent eIort, and a classic expression of Sonoma Coast in a good vintage. The wine is dry and tannic, yet lilting in the mouth, with Havors of raspberries, cherries, pomegranates and mushrooms. It’s not an ager, but an elegant, sophisticated Pinot to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $39

Patz & Hall 2011 Hyde Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros). The tannins and acids are pushy on this young Pinot, making it tough to appreciate now despite rich, savory raspberry, persimmon, rose and clove Havors. Give it three or four years in the cellar to let it mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $65

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The Gardener 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is the richest and most rewarding of the winery’s 2012 range of Pinot Noirs. It’s classically dry and silky, with brisk acidity and delicious raspberry jam and cherry pie Havors that have the earthiness of pomegranates and persimmons. It’s Gne to drink now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

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Davies 2011 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A likeable Pinot from a stalwart Anderson Valley vineyard, this Ferrington is light in color but rich with baked strawberry and violet. With a distinct woodsy component remniscent of forest Hoor, it’s an ideal wine for wintertime meals adorned in mushrooms and herbs. Its Gnish is particularly sauvage. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

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Foursight 2011 Charles Vineyard Clone 05 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see page 74. abv: 14.2% Price: $49

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Last Light 2012 Derbyshire Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo). For full review see

page 75. abv: 13.2%

Price: $34

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Patz & Hall 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). It’s hard to imagine any Pinot Noir being richer or riper than this one, which is made from a blend of vineyards from throughout the county’s cooler areas. It’s explosive with jammy raspberries, cherries, boysenberries and pomegranates, along with plenty of new French oak for buttery, toasty complexities. It will hold for a year or three. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

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The Gardener 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is a good value for a Sonoma

Coast Pinot of this quality. The wine is dry, crisp and clean, with complex favors of raspberry jam, pomegranates and heirloom tomatoes, which lend a satisfying earthiness to the fruit. New French oak is applied judiciously, and crisp acidity gives it delicious bite. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

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The Gardener 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). With a silky texture and mouthwatering acidity, this is a polished Pinot Noir. It’s dry and spicy, with raspberry jam, Dr. Pepper, red plum and sandalwood Havors that fnish with an earthy touch of mushrooms. Makes for lovely drinking now, and should age well for eight years. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $35

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Witching Stick 2011 Gianoli Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino Ridge). Former longtime Edmeades winemaker Van Williamson is oIering the world his take on cool-climate Mendocino Pinot Noir with this and his Cerise Vineyard bottlings. This one is light in color but weighty on the palate with rich, spicy notes of raspberry-vanilla wafers and earth. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

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Crossbarn by Paul Hobbs 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is a rich, Hamboyant Pinot for drinking now. The raspberry and cherry Havors express California heat and sunshine, but you’ll fnd brisk coastal acidity for balance, as well as a luxurious layer of oak. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

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Gary Farrell 2011 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This low-production Pinot shows oI the elegance and balance you expect from this famous vineyard. The wine is dry and tart in acidity, with drink-me-now cranberry, pomegranate, mushroom and new oak Havors. Decant it for an hour or two. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $70

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Les Belles Collines 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 76. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

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Three Sticks 2011 The James Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This vineyard blend shows the riper, oakier side of a Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir. Rich, fruity and direct, it has luscious raspberry, strawberry and oak Havors, with a touch of sautéed mushrooms and heirloom tomatoes. Drink over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $60

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Witching Stick 2011 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). The Cerise Vineyard is aptly named, producing wines that are fragrant with cherry, sage and earth. A soM, lightly structured wine, it’s still tight around the edges, but shows the potential to take on waves of voluptuous-

ness with age. Pair now with a pork roast smothered in mushrooms. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $48

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Artesa 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros). This wine, which hails from the Napa side of the sprawling Carneros appellation, is somewhat heavy and full-bodied for a Pinot Noir. Yet it’s dry in style and the tannins are light and silky. It might improve with a year or two in the bottle. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $40

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Davies 2011 Londer Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This Londer Vineyard Pinot exudes a faint aroma of rose water. It’s light in color and texture, but has a palate that’s meaty with notes of earth, raspberry and cherry, along with slight herbal undertones. On the fnish, ripe tannins impart a sense of strength. Enjoy with a BLT. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

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Kastania 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Accented with lime notes, this tart, young Pinot is dry and complex. Flavors of sour-cherry candy, pomegranate and persimmon are deliciously ripe, yet marked with acidity. Astringent tannins suggest two or three years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

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Lafond 2010 Lafond Vineyard Pommard Clone Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Pinots this soM and forward are unlikely to age, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a lovely wine to drink soon. Dry and fairly tannic, it has lush Havors of raspberry and cherry pie, cola and smoky oak, with a savory earthiness. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $50

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Artesa 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Bright and perky with acidity, along with a delicate, silky mouthfeel, this is a pretty Pinot for drinking now with steak or char-broiled salmon. It has delicious Havors of cherries and pomegranates, along with earthier notes of ripe heirloom tomatoes and sautéed wild mushrooms splashed with Balsamic. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $25

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Gary Farrell 2011 Stiling Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This bottling is curiously at odds with the winery’s other 2011 single-vineyard Pinots. It’s less ripe, with a mushroomy earthiness alongside Havors of raspberries and pomegranates. You might call that Burgundian, but it does cut down on the wine’s opulence, and seems to limit ageability. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Murphy-Goode 2012 Pinot Noir (California). For full review see page 76. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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River Road 2012 Stephanie’s Cuvée Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This Pinot is a little tough in the mouth, but the tart red cherry, cranberry, strawberry jam and sandalwood Havors are complex and enjoyable. Give it a few hours in the decanter and drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $23

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Schug 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Carneros). This Pinot is all about brisk acidity and ripe, jammy fruit. The Havors of raspberries and cherries, enriched with oak, are direct and luscious, and will drink well now with a great tuna or beef steak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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Three Sticks 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The fruity, jammy forwardness of this Pinot makes you think it will develop in the cellar, but it’s a little too soM for extended aging. So give it a good decanting, and enjoy the raspberries, cherries and opulent new oak over the next year or two. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $60 Truchard 2011 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This Pinot Noir is rich and elegant, but somewhat straightforward with Havors of raspberry and cherry wrapped in a pleasant coating of smoky oak. It’s less ageable than Truchard’s 2010 vintage so decant and drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

Terra Valentine 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Terra Valentine’s Pinot boasts fruit with long hangtime, and ripe Havors of raspberry and pomegranate. It’s rather soM and oaky though so drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $48 Testarossa 2011 Cuvée Los Gatos Pinot Noir (Monterey County). Testarossa blends this wine from grapes sourced from multiple vineyards. It’s pretty tasty with a palate that’s dry, silky and tart with acidity, along with Havors of cherry, cranberry, mushroom and lush oak. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $27

WASHINGTON

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Alta Maria 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This Pinot kicks oI with a burst of mouthwatering lime acidity, before Havors of cherry, cranberry and cola settle in. The palate fnishes richly with some new French oak, making it a great companion with steak. —S.H. abv: 12.7% Price: $28

CHARDONNAY

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Cloudlif Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Sourced from the Bacchus vineyard, this shows terriGc improvement from the previous vintage. Firm, focused, spicy fruit is framed by a mouth-cleansing minerality. A lick of toasted

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BUYINGGUIDE hazelnuts and a hint of butterscotch add to the fnish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $18

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Dunham 2012 Shirley Mays Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Excellent concentration and depth elevate this young, tight Chardonnay. Flavors of lemon custard and caramel-coated apples abound, making it downright irresistible. 30% was aged in French oak, the rest in stainless. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $24

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Tamarack Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). A well-integrated mix of grapes from a broad range of vineyards across the entire Columbia valley, this outstanding value proves that good Chardonnay does not have to be strengthened by age in new oak barrels. Stone fruits, hints of tropical papaya and banana, contribute to a complex, fruit-driven, well-balanced wine with medium-term aging potential. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $15

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Bergevin Lane 2012 She-Devil Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). No information was given as far as whether this was entirely stainless fermented, but that is the clear impression. Light fruit favors of apple, pear, and green banana combine in a crisp wine that is modest in scale, balanced and fresh. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

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Columbia Crest 2012 Grand Estates Unoaked Chardonnay (Washington). This is a new offering for Columbia Crest’s Grand Estates lineup. Fresh fruit favors emphasize lemon, lime and pineapple, backed with moderate acidity. A nice spicy lif informs the Gnish. Light and lively. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Vin du Lac 2012 Barrel Select Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Pleasing toasty notes greet your Grst sniI, followed by apple pie fruit favors with hints of plum and banana. It’s a light, creamy, easy-drinking confection. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $25

Three Rivers 2012 Steel Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 75. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $17 Woodward Canyon 2012 Chardonnay (Washington). Round and succulent, this nicely-deGned Chardonnay is built around a core of apple butter with a slight suggestion of pineapple. A streak of butterscotch Glls in the Gnish. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $44

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Dusted Valley 2012 Chardonnay (Ancient Lakes). Aged in 20% new French oak with half of the wine undergoing malolactic fermentation, it’s direct and appealing with peach, melon and buttery spices that lead to a warm Gnish. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $29

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Boomtown 2012 Chardonnay (Washington). This is spicy and sharp, with excellent focus and snap. Green apple favors dominate, aided by suggestions of pineapple and grapefruit. It’s crisp and refreshing, with a good, clean Gnish. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

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Efestē 2011 Lola Evergreen Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This 2011 Lola is light and creamy, with hints of buttered apple, from aging in 18% new French oak. It Gnishes sof, supple and lightly spiced. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $30

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Apex 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Barrel fermented in French and eastern European oak, this is lightly aromatic with noteēs of butter, vanilla and cardamom with a creamy feel, showing some heat on the Gnish. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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Bergevin Lane 2012 Love-Struck Viognier (Columbia Valley). The 8% splash of Roussanne in this blend, contributes to the lovely complexity of the opening aromas. Sweet citrus, honey and tea Havors combine, while keeping the palate light and focused. Complex hints of lemon meringue, vanilla cream and toasted coconut keep it lively and interesting through to the Gnish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

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Stottle 2012 Elerding Vineyard Viognier (Yakima Valley). This is bone dry, with a tongue-tickling minerality underscoring Horal highlights. The honeyed fruit Havors focus around peaches, with good length and a clean, fresh Gnish with gin-like, botanical complexity. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

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Efestē 2012 Feral Evergreen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 70. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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Charles Smith 2011 Lawrence Vineyard Viognier (Columbia Valley). The most foral and lemony of Charles Smith’s trio of Viogniers, this received extra time in barrel, yielding a more Burgundian mouthfeel—rich and creamy. Just 10% saw new oak, which seems to be exactly right, adding a hint of toast without clobbering the foral subtleties. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Tamarack Cellars 2012 Viognier (Columbia Valley). Sourced entirely from the Sagemoor vineyard, this richly endowed Viognier smothers the palate in a lush mix of fat, candied citrus and tropical fruits. Honeysuckle and orange pekoe tea Havors trickle into the lingering, lip-smacking Gnish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $24 Charles Smith 2012 Stoneridge Vineyard Viognier (Columbia Valley). This brings bracing minerality into the forefront, in a terroir-driven wine with excellent penetration and depth. A fresh mix of citrus and stone, this elevates Viognier into the top echelons of Washington white wines. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 K Vintners 2012 Viognier (Columbia Valley). Now one of three Viogniers produced by Charles Smith, this is from Art den Hoed’s Yakima Valley Vineyard, and was barrel fermented in neutral French oak. Clean and pure fruit aromas lead into fresh, natural, tree fruit Havors of peach and apricot. There’s a nice kick of citrus in the vibrant acidity. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Woodward Canyon 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Walla Walla Valley). A rare Walla Walla Sauvignon Blanc, this is rich and round in this new vintage, fully-ripened to lush Havors of apple, pear and papaya. Great concentration and length are in play, though the ripe fruit shows none of the lovely herbaceousness generally associated with this grape. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $26 Apex 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this 100% varietal wine is bright and focused with notes of herbs, citrus and kiwi. It’s ripe and full of juicy fruit Havors with a spine of citric acidity running throughout. Give this some time to open up. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.1% Price: $18 Bergevin Lane 2012 Linen Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). This lovely blend of Sauvignon Blanc, and 14% Roussanne, is as crisp and fresh as its name implies. Bright fruit Havors of lemon, lime, orange and pineapple speak to the success of this unusual blend. It’s a bracing, palate-cleansing white wine that will be appealing all year round. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

K Vintners 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). A Grst for K Vintners, this fruit was sourced from the Sunset and Evergreen vineyards, and supervised by winemaker, Brennon Leighton. Cool climate characteristics are shown in the form of unripe berry and juicy acid Havors. There’s a slight natural herbaceousness, as well. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Three Rivers 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). The fruit sources—Klipsun and Gamache—are excellently displayed in this white that includes 8% Sémillon. A bracing, cool blast of citrus, white peach, melon and cucumber is buoyed with crisp minerality. The wine spent seven months in 15% new French oak. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $16

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Snoqualmie 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Apple and pear fruit is set in a frame of citrus, grapefruit fesh and rind. Skin favors are well modulated, with a hint of minerality, as well. This is wine is drinking nicely—clean and persistent. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

SYRAH

my, peppery fruit and adding barrel notes of clove, licorice and dusty earth. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

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K Vintners 2010 Cougar Hills Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Dark and earthy, with a streak of soy and a hint of funk, this complex eIort opens powerfully, then turns more subtle, with plum and chocolate highlights. It’s one of those wines that never stops evolving in the glass. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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K Vintners 2010 Phil Lane Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Just one barrel was made from this vineyard, which suIered losses from frost and wildlife in 2010. A shame, because the wine is terrific, delicate for Syrah, with boysenberry, raspberry, piercing acidity and reGned tannins. Built to age. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $70

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Gramercy Cellars 2010 Lagniappe Syrah (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 67. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $55 Charles Smith 2010 Royal City Syrah (Washington). This wine headlines the Charles Smith lineup, and has established a breathtakingly complex and rich style, that varies in saturation with each vintage but remains consistent in its favors. Clove, baking spices and maple syrup favors trump the ripe fruits that remain more in the background. Delicious now, or cellar for a few more years. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $140

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Gramercy Cellars 2011 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). In 2011 the alcohol drops a bit and the fruit comes forward, stepping slightly away from the strongly herbal favors of the 2010. It’s refective of the vintage, and perhaps more immediately approachable, without sacriGcing any of the complexity or structure that typiGes Gramercy wines. Strongly aromatic favors of blackberry, black cherry, cola and licorice are all in play, backed with refreshing minerality. The wine should age beautifully for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $50

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Owen Roe 2011 Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). For full review see page 68. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

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Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 69. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $21

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Dunham 2009 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). One of a trio of Dunham’s Lewis vineyard reds, this opens slowly, seeming at Grst a little thin, with herbal accents outshining the fruit. But it evolves nicely in the glass, Glling in the plum-

Efestē 2010 Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). For full review see page 72. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.9% Price: $39 Efestē 2010 Ceidleigh Syrah (Red Mountain). For full review see page 72. abv: 14.6% Price: $39

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Bergevin Lane 2011 She-Devil Syrah (Columbia Valley). This excellent Syrah captures much of the depth and complexity of higher priced bottles. Boysenberry fruit provides a concentrated core of favor and rings of licorice, earth, coIee, smoke and vanilla circle through the lingering Gnish. Tannins are a bit on the crunchy side. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

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K Vintners 2010 M.C.K. Syrah (Washington). M.C.K. stands for Motor City Kitty, and along with the winery’s Milbrandt Syrah, this is the entry-level oIering in a vast portfolio of single vineyard bottlings. Tasty, toasty, supple and fruity, this carries slight hints of citrus, earth and stem and wraps its appealing, forward favors in a light coating of milk chocolate. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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K Vintners 2010 Morrison Lane Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The fruit is sourced from the Grst Syrah plantings in the Walla Walla valley. Tannic and dense, it marries plum fruit favors to streaks of earth, herb and licorice. A hint of green olive comes into the Gnish, bolstered by high alcohol and sharp acidity. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

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Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Reserve Syrah (Red Mountain). For full review see page 75. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

they are mixed with fruit from Stonetree. It’s a dark, smoky wine, with highlights of licorice around deep cassis fruit favors. The chewy tannins Gnish with a pleasant streak of lovely cherry fruit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

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Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). A solid, well-made example of Columbia Valley Syrah, this shows mixed boysenberry and raspberry fruit favors that are accented lightly with peppery spice. It’s a modest wine in terms of volume and density, but proportionate and true to variety. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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Dusted Valley 2011 Tall Tales Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). From the Stoney Vine vineyard, this shows the eIects of a cool vintage on young vines. There’s a lot of citrus and pineapple throughout, and the berry fruit favors, characteristic of Syrah, are present in the background. There are pleasing accents of carpaccio and peat moss, and just a hint of Bourbon from the third-use, Wisconsin oak barrels. This deGnitely needs extensive breathing time, or further bottle age. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $53

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Hawkins Cellars 2011 Reserve Syrah (Columbia Valley). Sourced from the Kiona vineyard on Red Mountain, and viniGed in Oregon, this features a brambly, berry-strewn mid-palate with dried leaves and spices adding further interest. It rolls pleasantly across the palate into a tart, fruity Gnish. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $30

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Knight Hill 2010 StoneTree Vineyard Syrah (Wahluke Slope). With 20% Petite Sirah blended in and aged in a mixture of American, French and European oak, barrel notes of vanilla and sweet spices play nicely against plump, jammy red fruit aromas and favors, with the oak leading the way on the Gnish. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

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Tildio 2009 Syrah (Lake Chelan). A fruit forward, appealing wine with notes of fresh cherry, cranberry and dried herbs. It’s soM and textured in feel with pure favors, an elegant styling and a tart Gnish. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

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Two Mountain 2010 Copeland Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). Fresh fruit favors of boysenberry grab your attention here, interwoven with peppery spices. There’s a suggestion of clean earth in the well-managed tannins. Not a big Syrah, so drink soon while it’s fresh and youthful. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

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Southard 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Previously this Syrah was sourced completely from Lawrence vineyard grapes, but here

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BUYINGGUIDE

SPIRITS

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Sláinte! Here’s to spring’s perfect spirit: Irish whiskey

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e know that St. Patrick’s Day is growing “Many serious cocktail bars don’t have even near when buzz about Irish whiskey starts one single bottle of Irish whiskey,” laments Sean to build, but this spirit deserves yearMuldoon, general manager at New York’s Dead round attention. Rabbit Grocery & Grog, noted for its outstanding Gentle, drinkable Irish whiskey has been collection of Irish whiskeys. “Even ‘Irish’ coIees building a fan base on American oMen are made with Bourbon.” shores. What’s the appeal? Sheer But there’s good news. YoungIrish whiskies are er drinkers are warming to Irish approachability, experts say. Goldlight and fresh, en Irish whiskeys are light and whiskey, driven in part by Jamefresh, ofen fruity and grassy, with son’s steady marketing push. ofen fruity and little peat infuence, if it’s even grassy... Yet, they’re Bartenders, too, are embracused at all. Yet they’re still coming the spirit for its mixability. A still complex plex enough to hold a drinker’s number of classic cocktails made enough to hold a using Irish whiskey have resurinterest. And they’re ofen reasondrinker’s interest, faced recently, such as the Tipably priced. not to mention, You’ll Gnd blends and single perary (equal parts whiskey, dry malts among the reviews below— vermouth and Green Chartreuse) they’re ofen yeah, you read that right, single reasonably priced. and the blackthorn (a Manhatmalt isn’t only for Scotch. In fact, tan-esque mix of whiskey, verBushmills, our Wine Star Spirit of mouth, Angostura bitters and a the Year for 2013, is near the top of this month’s splash of absinthe). At the same time, bartendreviews with several of its single-malt bottlings, ers are creating new libations that showcase Irish as well as its blended Black Bush. whiskey’s light, appealing character. Although the spirit has enjoyed enviable There’s never been a better time to have a growth over the past couple of years, there’s still drop of Irish in your glass. room to grow. Cheers! —Kara Newman

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Bushmills Black Bush (Ireland; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). This elegant, super-sof sipper is a blend of grain whiskey and malt whiskey that was fnished in oloroso Sherry casks—the emphasis on the latter. The Sherry infuence shows in the baked apple and dried apricot favors that round into caramel and butterscotch tones on the fnish. abv: 40% Price: $29

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Bushmills 16 Year Old Single Malt (Ireland; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). This robust single-malt whiskey is matured in Sherry and Bourbon casks before fnishing for several months in Port barrels. Look for a balanced mix of creamy caramel, maple, dried apricots, a subtle raspberry jam note and a rounded, spicy fnish. abv: 40% Price: $75

95

Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy (Ireland; Pernod Ricard, Purchase, NY). Intended as a tribute to Midleton Master Distiller Barry Crockett, this delicate, silky whiskey has a golden hue and a lovely

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

fresh-apple scent. On the palate, apple and ripe pear meld with butterscotch and a touch of banana on the long fnish. Meant for savoring straight up. abv: 46% Price: $249

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2 Gingers Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Beam Inc., Deerfield, IL). A newcomer to the marketplace, thi s velvety blended Irish whiskey oIers sweet, malty favors that incorporate baked apple, honey and warm butterscotch. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $20

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Jameson Select Reserve Black Barrel (Ireland; Pernod Ricard, New York, NY). Like a liquid (if boozy) apple pie, this blended whiskey oIers bold, rich aromatics, with lots of dried and stewed fruit favors and butterscotch. The drawn-out fnish incorporates touches of cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and even a mouthwatering sprinkle of salt. abv: 40% Price: $35

Tullamore D.E.W. Phoenix (Ireland; William Grant & Sons, New York, NY). Teasingly sweet on the palate, this easy-drinking blend has a dark gold cast and notes of honey, rich vanilla, fruit and spice. The fnish is long and warming—note the high proof. It’s delicious but not too precious to mix into cocktails. abv: 55% Price: $55

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Bushmills 21 Year Old Single Malt (Ireland; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). This aged spirit shows Irish whiskey’s dark side. It retains the enticing fresh-fruit aroma of younger bottlings, plus a luscious layer of butterscotch. On the palate, it’s oaky and drying, with complex notes of toIee, dark chocolate, toasted nuts, caramel and a spicy fnish. The whiskey is aged for a minimum of 19 years in former oloroso Sherry and Bourbon barrels, then transferred to Madeira casks for the fnal two years of maturation. Treat it like Scotch: add just a splash of water to open up the favors. abv: 40% Price: $125

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Bushmills 10 Year Old Single Malt (Ireland; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). Though it’s a workhorse whiskey, it’s still full of surprises. The sweet, bright aromas of honey, vanilla and pear and the velvety feel belie the rich, bold salted-butterscotch umami on the palate. abv: 40% Price: $40

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Kilbeggan (Ireland; Beam Inc., Deerfield, IL). Light and fresh, this golden beauty has a mild white-foral note in the aroma and a gentle soMness on the palate. Honey, vanilla and almond wash over the palate, with a moderately spicy fnish. Price: $24 abv: 40%

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Malloye Whiskey (Ireland; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). This light gold whiskey has fresh scents of apple and pear, followed by a light smokiness on the palate. Smoke accelerates into the fnish in a pleasing way, with a prickle of ginger. abv: 40% Price: $21

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Bushmills Irish Honey (Ireland; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). More of a honey-spiked whiskey rather than a liqueur, this is ideal for mixing or introducing beginners to the pleasures of Irish whiskey. Authentic honey richness comes through on the palate, but it’s subtle and not overly sweet, and doesn’t lose the pleasures of the fresh, lightly fruity base spirit. abv: 40% Price: $24

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Concannon Irish Whiskey (Ireland; The Wine Group, San Francisco, CA). This venture from Cooley Distillery and Concannon Vineyard brings a whiskey aged in ex-Bourbon casks for at least four years, then rested for at least four months in barrels that previously held Concannon Petite Sirah. The end result is light-bodied and silky, with smoky Havor and touches of vanilla and lemon zest on the fnish. Some might hope for a more wine-like profle, but it’s pleasing nevertheless. abv: 40% Price: $25

CLASSIFIEDS

BEER

Brown is the new black

B

rown ales are nothing new to the beer to expect from any given American brown ale. world. Traditionally an English style, Some may be brewed in a more traditional style, brown ales were spawned from mild ales while others might be more of a hybrid of the as sweet, malty selections of full body and brown ale and IPA styles, even though ofcial medium alcohol. The hop profle of these selecstyle guidelines for American-style brown ales tions is typically low—light on aroma, favor list low to moderate hop characteristics. Aland overall bitterness—allowing the malt charthough sometimes labeled as Brown IPA, your acteristics to take center stage best bet for knowing what to and truly shine. Some producexpect is to read the beer’s laTraditionally an ers prefer a leaner profle, with bel for indications of style or cleansing carbonation to lif the English style, brown IBUs, or check out the producroasty characteristics, while ales were spawned er’s Web site for more recipe others might drill down into the specifcs. from mild ales as rich, malty, nutty goodness that In addition to these brown sweet, malty some people can’t get enough of. beauties, we also reviewed a American versions are ofen handful of seasonal selections selections of full quite similar to their European body and medium for this issue’s Beer Buying counterparts, although they ofGuide. Some are winter releasalcohol. ten use American ingredients, es while others are scheduled to including hops. Like most Amerhit shelves this spring, but eiican beer styles, the hop profle ther way, they’ll get you through is ofen amped up a degree or two (or even three the change of season with plenty of ease and or four) from traditionally styled examples, and good taste. Becuase we didn’t have enough with that might also come an increase in alcoroom to share them with you here, be sure to hol, especially for producers looking to make visit buyingguide.winemag.com to check them imperial-style selections. out online. These hop additions can result in some Prost! blurred lines when it comes to knowing what —Lauren Buzzeo

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Smuttynose Durty Mud Season Hoppy Brown Ale (American Brown Ale; Smuttynose Brewing Company, NH). This new brew originally comes from one of Smutty’s Short Batch releases, but makes its seasonal debut this spring. It’s a wonderful balance of rich, toasty brown-ale characteristics and bright, citrusy hop notes. The hop profle leads on the nose, with forward scents of grapefruit peel and pine resin, while the malty core of caramel, toIee and brownbread favors fesh out the creamy palate. The fnish is dry and astringent, with good length and a kiss of bittersweet cocoa favor. abv: 8.4% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

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Karl Strauss Fullsuit Belgian-style Brown Ale (Belgian-style Brown Ale; Karl Strauss Brewing Company, CA). Aged on French oak chips, this leads with toasty aromas of roasted nuts, charred wood and vanilla-caramel sauce, with supporting notes of brown-bread dough, toasted malt, toIee and

dried hops. The spicy yeast notes of clove and pepper, as well as a touch of banana, unfold on the creamy mouth and linger through the close. Despite the rich, sweet aromas and favors, it’s well balanced, clean and easy to drink. abv: 6.3% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

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Uinta Bristlecone Brown Ale (English Brown Ale; Uinta Brewing, UT). A refreshing and well-balanced selection, this is a smooth and clean brown ale that also happens to be quite sessionable thanks to its easygoing profle and low alcohol. Flirty scents of caramel malt, peanut shells, weak coIee and brown bread dance in the bouquet and continue through to the light-bodied palate. Brisk carbonation keeps the mouthfeel bright and lively, with just a notion of bitter, earthy hop that unfolds on the fnish. abv: 4.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

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lastdrop

TAKE TWO SIPS AND CALL ME IN THE MORNING

A recent study (again) confirms what grandmothers have known for centuries: A drink can be good for you.

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104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014

A Carthusian Monk testing some long-life elixir.

The French liqueur Chartreuse, still produced by Carthusian monks, traces its complex herbal sip back to a recipe for the “elixir of long life.” Absinthe also began as a medicinal product. Its controversial ingredient is wormwood, which was used as far back as ancient Egypt to treat anything from indigestion and fever to menstrual cramps. “Patent” and side show medicines made during the 19th century were usually heavily alcoholic (sometimes

with other ingredients like opium and cocaine). Plenty of spirits are still categorized as digestifs, from Italian amaros to my mom’s beloved Underberg. While I can’t stand the taste of Underberg, preferring Rolaids to soothe my stuffed stomach, I relish the fact those white lab coats at Harvard are just now catching up to what my mother, and her mother before her, have long known. —Ingrid Steffensen

BERT HARDY/STRINGER/GETTY IMAGES

hen I first read the recent Harvard School of Public Health study declaring that a couple of drinks a day is not only not bad, but can actually improve your health, I imagined my non-cursing German mother muttering under breath, “No scheisse.” To this day when she overfills her belly with too much bratwurst and strudel, she takes a nip from an itty-bitty bottle of Underberg, an alcoholic German elixir that tastes like Fisherman’s Friend cough drops with a tinge of alpine meadow. Developed in 1846 using a secret herbal recipe and process mysteriously referred to by the brand as semper idem, Latin for “always the same,” it’s packaged exclusively in 2-centiliter bottles, each carefully wrapped in a twist of straw-colored paper like a grand cru Bordeaux. I myself was once given a homemade dose of high-proof pinecone-infused zirbenschnaps that cured my head cold while on a visit to Austrian ski country. For ages, alcohol was used to make water safe for drinking, and it was the top medicine in the Middle Ages— literally called aqua vitae, or “water of life,” a term preserved by the Danish caraway-flavored liqueur, aquavit.

©2014 Clos Du Val, Napa, California