Watchmakers and Jewelers Practical Handbook 1892

TS 545"

,H3S

:o

N

>

V

oo A,

off.

sizes,

% °f an

inch in diameter,

14",

when turned

Place a steel taper plug in the chuck of your and turn down a recess, leaving a shoulder on

the taper;

drill

a hole through one of the brass

i

Fig.

pieces already made, to

fit

26.

the steel taper tightly, and

remove from the lathe. Place the end of the taper on a lead block, proceed to rivet the brass on the and true, replace the taper in the chuck and proceed to turn the face and edge of

steel taper tightly

lathe

the brass perfectly true and of the proper

ceed the same with

all

size.

Pro-

the sizes until the whole set

is

watchmakers' and jewelers'

66 complete.

Every watchmaker knows how hard it is and drill a hole

to hold an article to a. drill in a lathe

perfectly straight.

By using

easily accomplished,

a drill rest this

by placing the rest

may

be

in the spindle

stock and placing the article flat against Loosen the screw on the tail stock spindle and gently move the article against the drill, and the whole will be perfectly upright and all danger of breaking drills will be avoided. Fig. 26 shows a front and side view of these very useful little attachments, which all watchmakers should have. Jewel Chucks. Jewel chucks, or jewel cement chucks as they are sometimes called, will also be found very useful, and any watchmaker can make a supply of them during his leisure moments. They should be made of brass and threaded to screw into the taper screw chuck of lathe and similar to Fig. 27 of the

the

in

tail

rest.

shape.

make

a

Ten

or twelve different sized faces will

good assortment

to select from.

They will

be

found very valuable for fitting odd-sized jewels. Once in a while you will find it impossible to select from your supply of jewels one that will fit the pivot properly, and at the same time fit in the recess in the cock or potance. Select a jewel that fits the pivot, and if the brass setting is too large select one of these jewel chucks that is a trifle smaller than the recess in the potance.

Cement

the jewel to the

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK.

67

end of the jewel chuck, bring to a dead center on the lathe, by means of a peg-wood, inserting it in the hole in the jewel, and as soon as the cement is cool

you can proceed the potance.

to turn

Cement

down

toward the chuck, so that

_

^^ gf

^

® E]fl|=:i -^illi

the brass setting to

the jewel

with the

flat

case the setting

in

also can be

is

-

-

these jewel chucks

it

down

to the exact thick »ess

With

ting.

you

too

thick

turned

of the original jewel's

Fig 27

fit

side

a

full

set-

set

of

many

will be able to utilize

odds and ends and fit a jewel perfectly in a short time, while otherwise you might be compelled to wait several days for the receipt of a jewel from some material house, and then find when it comes that it is not just what you wanted.

Screw Head Sink

Cutters.

These

the ones just described, can be

little tools, like

made by any

ingen-

ious watchmaker, and they will be found well worth

the time and labor bestowed

upon them.

Very

often

broken end-stone or cap jewel. The jewel is set in a brass setting and is held in place by two screws on opposite sides, the screw heads being let in or sunk even with the surface, and half of the screw head projects over on the end stone. The end stones which are purchased from the material houses are not sunk from these screw heads, a watch

is

brought

in that has a

watchmakers' and jewelers'

68*

but are just as

left

by the jewel lathe; and when they

are fitted into position

space

left for

makers use

they

fill

the screw heads.

up one-half

of the

Now many

watch-

a graver or small rat-tailed

file

to cut

out

these recesses for the screw heads, and the natural is a bungling one when screw head sink cutters like that shown in Fig. 2S will do this work on the various movements, and do it as well as it is done in the fac-

consequence finished.

A

is

that the job

set of

With a set of six, to fit the various makes of American watches, you will be able to do your work

tories.

in a first-class

manner.

Select a piece of Stubb's steel

wire of the proper diameter for the sized cutter you

Fig. 28.

and about one inch wire or split chuck in your require,

in length.

Place

it

in a

and turn one end to a center. Now reverse the wire in your chuck, being very careful that it is centered, and selecting a drill that will pass through the screw hole in the cock, proceed to

drill

lathe,

a hole in the center of the wire,

and in the flat end, making it about one-sixteenth of an inch deep. Remove from the lathe and with a sharp

file

or graver, proceed to cut a series of teeth,

like those in the rose cutter, as

possible.

Use a good strong

equal and as even as glass for this work,

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK.

69

and be sure you have every tooth sharp and perfect, upon this depends the quick and nice work that you expect from the tool. Now proceed to temper Select a nice it and give the outside a nice polish. as

piece of pivot wire, of a size that will nearly the hole in the end of the tool, and polish

it

into

fit

down

to

snugly into the hole and drive it home. Cut off this wire, allowing about one-sixteenth of an inch to project in the form of a pivot. Taper and polish this pivot and your tool is ready for use. You can now select an end-stone of a diameter to fit tightly into the cock or potance, as may be required, and first placing the hole jewel in position, proceed a size to

fit

to press the end-stone tightly against the hole jewel.

Now

place a sink cutter of the proper size in a

rest,

dle.

split

your lathe and select a medium-sized drill(see fig. 26), and place it in the tail stock spinHold the cock or potance, with the hole and

chuck

in

cap jewel in place as described, against the drill the lathe at a moderate rest, and proceed to run speed and slowly feed the cock or potance to the cutter in the lathe. The projecting pivot in the end of the cutter will pass

through the screw hole and be

a guide to keep the cutter in the center of the hole.

Be careful and do not cut the recess too deep, little

you

cutters are deceiving and cut

think,

if

much

you have never used them

as these

faster than

before.

If

watchmakers' and jewelers'

7^

the projecting pivot on the cutter

is

well polished

it

will not injure the thread in the hole in the least.

Hand Tongs. The sliding tongs generally used by the trade for holding minute hands while filing or broaching the hole large enough to fit the cannon pinion, are

poor,

awkward

tools

Fig. 29 illustrates a form of

found very convenient

for

for

the purpose.

hand tong* that will be this purpose, and which can be made in a very

Almost

little time.

every watchmaker has

an old sliding pin vise, that is perhaps well

worn out and which Fi«.

can

29.

verted into a useful

tool.

If

be

readily

con-

you have no such

tool

handy you can buy a new one for twenty-five cents and alter it over. Slide the ferrule towards the end tight, and file or saw a slot in the end, about onethirty-second of an inch wide, and up to the hole that

is

When

usually drilled through the sliding pin vise.

proceed to saw or cut three narrow grooves, lengthwise, on the inside of the jaws of the

this is done,

vise,

and of a width and depth sufficient to The grooves should

hold a minute hand securely.

be similar to those

made

tongs, and are used in the

in the

common

same manner.

sliding

Make

the

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK. slots

*ri

of three different widths, to accommodate the watch hands. The tool is oper-

different widths of

ated in the fact

is

same manner

as the sliding tongs,

simply a modification of that

a second-hand holder tion ready to broach.

is

tool.

At

shown, with a hand

and

in posi-

new

In order to broach out a

Fig.

in

Fig. 30

30.

hand, where the boss of the old hand has been pre. served, place a small slip of cork upon the end of the broach and insert the cork

is

it

in the old

hand

as far as

new hand may then be broached

go, and the

reached, before trying

it

for a

it

will

until

fit.

Mainspring Winders. The Stark patent winder, shown in Fig. 31, is a very superior tool, is simple and durable, and should last for a lifetime. The win der is fastened in the vise, the adjustable nut is then turned until the barrel will

fit

loosely over the jaws,

then removed and the spring wound on the arbor inside the jaws. Now let the handle turn the barrel

is

backward

until the arbor

the arbor back and turn

it

is

free

from the center, pull

half round, place the bar-

back again over the jaws and spring, and hold it tightly against the face of the winder with the left hand, at the same time push the arbor forward

rel

up

WATCHMAKERS' AND JEWELERS'

72

with the right hand until the barrel and spring are from the jaws, and the spring will be found in

free its

are

proper place without further operation. There two sizes of winding arbors, one for small and

Fig.

the other for large barrels.

31.

The

arbors are

easily-

changed by turning the thumb screw up until it is free, then changing the arbors and screwing the

thumb screw down

again.

Adjustment Heater. The Simpson heater, shown in Fig. 32, will be found invaluable when adjusting

movements

to temperature.

perature in this heater in

twenty- four hours.

is

It

The

variation of tem-

one and one-half degrees is designed to be heated by

gas, the cost of heating being but about three cents in

twenty-four hours.

the

A

small lamp can be used

watchmaker has no gas

at

command.

if

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK.

Fig.

32.

73

watchmakers' and jewelers'

74

Jewel Pfn

Setter.

Fig. 33

illustrates

Logan

the

an excellent tool and will save the workman considerable time

patent.

It is

and much annoyance by its use. Every watchmaker is aware what a difficult and tedious matter it is to set a jewel pin correctly.

With

this tool the job

is

accomplished quickly and accurately. The Snyder Patent Bezel Chuck. Bezel Chuck,

shown

originally intended

only, but

it is

holding bezels

now made

so that

hold watch plates, coins, etc adjustable to any to

,

it

will

and

is

can be

fitted

any lathe and requires very

little

practice to use

make

It

size.

it,

as

simple, and any one

can

was

Fig. 34,

in

for

it

who

is

extremely

uses a lathe

or repair bezels in a work-

manlike manner. It holds the work as in a vise, and no amount of turning or jarring will loosen the jaws, while it may be opened and closed instantly by simply turning the milled nut" behind the face plate, thus enabling the operator to turn Fig.

33.

necessary.

and

fit

a bezel perfectly by try-

ing on the case as It

many

times as

is

holds the bezel by either groove, so

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK.

may

that the recess

75

when

be turned out

too shal-

low or too small for the glass, or the bezel may be inverted and turned away when it rests too hard on the dial. It will be found especially useful in turning out the inevitable lump of solder from the recess in the bezel, after soldering and in fitting to case, as the process of soldering generally makes the bezel shorter, and consequently will not

fit

on the

case.

it

renders

It also

the operation of polishing bezels after

but a few minutes work. In turning out the recess for glass in

soldering,

bezels, especially

heavy nickel

bezels,

prove a friend indeed, when for instance, you look through your stock

it

Fig. 34.

of

have one that

know

that

if

is

will

flat

glasses and find none to

just too large.

but

fit,

All watchmakers

the groove in the bezel

is

imperfect

it is

The chuck is also useful as holding work while engraving, and

apt to break the glass.

a barrel closer,

many

other uses that will present themselves to the

watch or case repairer. Gemeilt Chuck. The Spickerman patent cement chuck, shown in Fig. 35, is a very handy device, as it holds and centers accurately any wheel in a watch while

drilling, polishing

pinions and

all

or

fitting

new

danger of injuring wheels

is

staffs

or

obviated.

watchmakers' and jewelers'

76

r

It fits all

lhe kinds of American or Swiss lathes. in Fig. 36 at «, is turned down to nearly

shown

holder

the size of the screw for the lathe and the screw cut so the holder will set as close as possible to the latne,.

The

face of the holder

is

then turned perfectly

triw*

Fig. 35.

Put wheel as

to be centered in cap

convenient and screw on

face of

chuck b against

holding

warm

the

the

chuck

to centei

place cement

on the

lathe,

c 36.

cement between the

sur-

Avith a stick against

the

pivot of wheel in the cap, and

exact center as soon as

as near

face of holder a

Fig.

faces,

c,

Then

b

a

and with a lamp,

b.

warmed

it

will

move

sufficiently.

to an

New

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK.

77

cement should be added occasionally between the surfaces, as it hardens and burns away and does not center as well as when new. Fig. 35 shows chuck with wheel inside ready for drilling. Filing

Block.

A

contrivance

place of the filing rest, which

or bone.

It consists of

which revolves upon

The

split socket.

which

size

groove is

is

in

turn enters a

cylinder

is

is

37.

sizes of

ferent sizes of wire, or to suit

socket

take the

surface of the steel cylinder

Fig.

The

to

a cylinder of hardened steel

a staff

grooved with various Fig. 37.

made

was made of boxwood

grooves for the

any work,

as

dif-

shown

in

revolved until the desired

brought uppermost, when the

split

placed between the jaws of a vise, and the

vise closed, thus holding the cylinder in the desired

Fig. 37 illustrates Mr. Ide's patent block which is well made and of superior material. Rounding Up Attachment. The Webster rounding up tool attachment, shown in Fig. 38, is a very useful position.

7S

watchmakers' and jewelers

adjunct to the lathe. slide-rest.

To

chuck is put rounded up

It is attached to the top of the

The wheel

to be put into the fixture and the wheel

in the lathe spindle. is

the taper

operate, a pointed taper in

adjusted vertically so that the point of

the lathe

Fig. 38.

center will be at the center of the thickness of the

wheel, after which the lower spindle of the fixture

should not be moved.

Now

remove the wheel,

also

the taper chuck, and put the saw arbor, with the

rounding up

cutter, in the lathe spindle,

and adjust

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK. the longitudinal

slide

79

of the slide-rest so

rounding up cutter will be back of and the center of the rounding up fixture,

that the

in line

after

with

which

the longitudinal slide of the slide-rest should not be moved. Now put the wheel and supporting collet in place,

Saw

and proceed with the rounding up.

The saw arbor or chuck, as shown in made with a projection turned to receive

Arbor.

Fig. 39,

is

Fig. 39.

a saw, diamond, or

emery

lap,

etc

They

are

manu-

factured by the various lathe manufacturers, though

the

patterns

vary somewhat from the illustration

here shown. Pivot Polisher. The pivot polisher is used for grinding and polishing conical and straight pivots

and shoulders.

It is also useful

for drilling, polish-

ing or snailing steel wheels, milling out odd places in plate or bridge where only a part of a circle is to be removed, etc. The circular base being graduated The spindle to degrees, it can be set at any angle. has a taper hole for drill chucks, which makes the

fixture very useful for drilling either in the center or

8o

WATCHMAKERS' AND JEWELERS'

eccentric,

and by using the graduations on the pulley

of the headstock an accurately spaced circle of holes

may be drilled. The polisher

Fig. 40

is

the Rivett pattern.

used as follows: After the pivot is turned to proper shape, put on your polisher (spindle is

Fig.

40.

back of pivot. Use (Square corners for square shoul-

parallel with lathe bed), with lap

cast-iron lap ders,

first.

and round corners for conical.)

Lap

for conical

shoulder can be readily cornered with a fine

file,

and

remove any lines Lines on end can be removed

cross-grind with fine

oil

stone to

made by graver. same way, or with slips rubbed on piece of ground glass which has on it a paste of oil stone and oil well mixed.

This will rapidly bring them up to a sharp corner by the graver. On the iron laps use No.

nicer than

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK. I

crocus or very fine

down

oil

stone powder, well ground

When roughened out to your

in oil to a paste.

wipe

Si

and with a

little oil touch second time. Then change lap for one of boxwood, and use crocus No.

liking,

the

4,

pivot

off the crocus,

gently repeat ;

the

very fine and well ground down to paste. Proceed first lap, being careful at all times to keep

as with

Fig.

the lap properly

oiled

41.

and not pressed

too

hard

against the work, particularly in the last operation.

Also be sparing of your grinding or polishing materials.

About

of a small knife

three specks of polish with point is

sufficient.

Bring the lap up

82

watchmakers' and jewelers'

carefully against the

work

until spread all the

way

around, then proceed, bearing in mind that grinding is not polishing, and that to polish nicely the work and lap must be very nearly the right shape. To thoroughly clean the laps, dip in benzine. Fig. 41 is the Johanson combined pivot polisher, milling and damaskeening machine. For use as a pivot polisher, it will fit any American lathe hand rest or can be used on slide rest. Cutters and polishing laps are furnished with the machine. Screw TailstOCk. This attachment shown in Fig.

Fig.

42, is

being

42.

very convenient for heavy drilling, the spindle moved by a screw with hand wheel attached.

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK.

83

Traverse Spindle Tailstock. This attachment be found very convenient for straight drilling.

will

Where to

the

watchmaker has a great

do he will find

this

deal of drilling

attachment invaluable.

These rests will be found Filing Fixture Or Rest. very convenient in squaring winding arbors, center, There are several makes of these tools, but they are all built upon the same principle, that of two hardened steel rollers on which the file rests, and

squares, etc.

Fig. 43 pattern

a fair example.

is is

made

rest after the

the other Fig.

The

T

fit

is

One

the hand

in

removed, while

attached to the bed of

the lathe in

43.

the slide rest. split

is

to

the

same manner

piece to be squared

is

as

held in the

or spring chuck in the lathe, and the index on

used to divide the square correctlv.

the pulley

is

Any

can be

article

or octagon, as

may

filed to a perfect square,

be desired.

The arm

the rollers can be raised or lowered

hexagon carrying

as required for

work of various sizes. These chucks are usually Step Or Wheel Chucks, made in sets of five, each chuck having nine steps, giving forty-five different sizes. These chucks are very useful in holding mainspring barrels, to fit in the cap of the barrel, should it become out of true. adjustment

to

WATCHMAKERS' AND JEWELERS'

84

They

are also valuable in trueing up barrels of Eng-

watches, that are damaged owing to the breakage of a mainspring. They are also very useful lish lever

|

Fig.

44-

holding almost any wheel in a watch, but particularly convenient in fitting a center wheel to a pinion,, in

making sure

that the hole in the wheel is in theij These chucks are made by the various lathe; manufacturers and are all similar to Fig. 44, and will hold wheels from .5 to 2.16.

or in

center.

The obvious Staff or Cylinder Height Gauge. advantage of this tool, which is shown at Fig. 45, is the automatic transfer of the measurement so that it may be readily applied to the work in hand. The tool, as the illustration shows, consists of a brass tube terminating in a cone-shaped piece. To the bottom of this cone is attached a disc through which a needle* plavs. Around the upper end of the tube is a collar

:

upon which

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK.

85

curved

A

is

fixed a

stee!

index finger.

which is free to move, works in a slot in The movable jaw is tapped and is pro

similar jaw,

the tube.

pelled by a screw that terminates in the needle point. This tool is very useful in making the necessary

measurements required putting in a

staff.

To

in

use

it

work, set the pivot of the gauge through the foot hole, and upon the end-stone project the needle such a distance as you wish the shoulder to be formed above in this

the point of the pivot. Next set

the gauge

in

the foot

hole as before, and elevate the disc to a height that shall be right for the roller, which is done by having the lever in place, the little disc showFig.

45,

should come.

ing exactly where the roller Finish the

staff

up

to that point, then

take the next measurement from the end- stone to

where the shoulder should upon.

be, for the balance to rest This point being marked, the staff can be

reversed and measurement

upper end-stone, by which

commenced from

to finish the

the

upper end of

watchmakers' and jewelers'

86 the

Distances

staff.

between

the

shoulders

for

pinions and arbors can be obtained with the same facility,

a

little

practice being requisite.

Staff Gauge.

The

tool

shown

in Fig. 46, the inven<

Mr. E. Beeton, is designed for measuring the height of the balance staff from the balance seat to the end of the top pivot. The illustration is enlarged to give more distinctness. E' is a piece of curved steel about g1^ of an inch thick, and fe of an inch wide. On the lower side fro E to the end the arm is filed down in width and thickness to correspond to an ordinary balance arm; C is a slot in the upper arm E, which allows A, B D' is £>, A* to be moved backward and forward. a round brass post drilled and tapped the part Z>' has a thread cut on it, and the part shown in the slot is a locknut, drilled and C fits with easy friction. tapped to fit the thread on D\ It is for the purpose of clamping against the arm E. A A' is a tion of

E

-1

y

D

;

B

D

V

small steel screw with milled head, and

is

made

to |

fit

the tapped hole in

D D\

Mr. Beeton describes his method of using this tool Take your measurement of the distance, the balance scat is to be from the end of the top pivot, as follows: remove the end stone in balance cock, and screw the cock on the top plate, (18-size full plate movement) then taking the plate in your left hand, as follows:

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK. and

tool in

your

H in position, so that A rests on the jewel in the

rignt, place

screw

the end of the

*7

balance cock, and notice the position of the arm JE' which corresponds to the balance arm, between the top plate and under side of balance cock.

arm

distance between the

E

If the

and end of screw

}

A

is

Fig. 46

too great, the plate;

if

arm E"

not enough,

the regulator pins. to

do

case

is

to

may

move

will it

be too low and touch the high and touch

will be too

Therefore,

the screw

A

be, sufficiently to

A

all

that

is

necessary

up or down

as the

ensure that the arm

E

1

assume the position the arm of the balance is to have. Take an iS-size balance with oversprung

will

hairspring; the that case.

arm

When

is at the bottom of the rim, in measuring, the screw is adjusted

A

WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS

8S

as to bring the

arm

E

1

close to the plate,

resting on the balance jewel,

arm

arm E' is

is

old

A

at top of rim, in

the

is

undersprung hairspring, the balance arm is adjusted so that which case

style with is

when A'

the balance

if

is

1

close to the balance cock;

in the center of the rim, as in

if

the balance

some English

and Swiss balances, the screw A' is adjusted so that the arm E' is midway between the plate and cock. / The reason the part A, B, Z>, is arranged to move laterally in slot C is because all balance shoulders are not the same distance from the center, and where, in some cases, the screw A would be in a line with the center of the staff when the arm was resting on the balance seat, in other cases it would

A

1

1

E

reach past the center, of course, short of therefore,

it is

made

adjustable to suit

it;

y

and,

all cases.

Douzieme. A measuring tool having two limbs hinged together similar to a pair of scissors. One of the limbs terminates in a pointer that indicates

upon

a scale

opened.

The

divided into

made

the extent to

which the jaws are

Douzieme gauge has a scale twelfths, though some patterns are now true

that have a scale divided into tenths

and hun-

dreds of an inch, and again there are others

that

measure the fractions of a millimeter. This tool is For useful for taking measurements of all kinds. example,

we

will

suppose that

the

watchmaker

is

PRACTICAL HAND BOOK.

Fig.

47.

89

watchmakers' and jewelers'

9o

new balance staff; we will take it for granted that the upper part of the staff is entirely finished and that he is ready to find the total length that the staff should be. He takes the top plate with putting in a

the balance cock and potance attached, and measures the distance from the top of cock hole jewel to top

of potance hole jewel by means of this gauge. He places the jaw a on potance jewel and b on cock jewel, and notes the number on the scale that the pointer

is

which is generally 30 American movement.

opposite,

size full plate

for

an 18

Drilling may be effected in Drills and Drilling. two ways, by rotating the drill and holding the work The most satisfactory stationary, or vice versa. results, however, are obtained by revolving the work

^7 AW Fig.

48.



of the

«

sell

Buy only

The well-known reputation

Spring, for which

we have had

the sole

United States for 3S years, has induced others to

an imitation as being "equally as good" as the "Robert

Spring," but which are of an inferior quality.

"CHAELES EQBEET SPEIN 2"

L.

H.

None others equal

KELLER

6,

There

is

it in finish or

but One

temper.

CO.,

Dealers in Fine Watch Materials and Tools,

64 NASSAU

ST.,

NEW

Agents for the Patek Philippe

&

YORK. Co.,

Watches.

One-Sixth Size of No.

You

will

2.

notice the manufacturers of

Watchmakers'

Lathes, the good, the bad and indifferent, to if

make

the best.

If

true

'tis

strange;

all

'tis

claim

strange

The word best seems to have lost its true We claim* to make one of the Best, of the Best. Can anyone claim more? When interested

true.

meaning. very

write your jobber for

new

list,

MOSELEY

or the &.

manufacturers.

CO., Elgin,

Full Size No.

2.

III.

Parsons' Horological

Institute,

FEORld, ILL. THE PIONEER SCHOOL. The

First.

The Largest.

Formerly

of

La

The Best.

Porte, Ind. but

now

of

PEORIA, ILL. By this change we have enlarged our facilities. No other school in the world has so

many Send

for Circulars

advantages.

giving terms and

mention The American Jeweler.

WATCHMAKERS

CHICAGO

Rooms

INSTITUTE.

1590-1591, Masonic Temple,

CHICHGO.

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P P

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PL t-3

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>

CD

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03

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c+

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p

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fill

Braises

of U/atel? U/orK

and Optics Taught Scienand Practically. Write for Terms.

Engraving, Jewelry Work tifically

FOOT POWER LATHES For Electrical and Experimental Work. For Jewelers and Watchmakers. For Gunsmiths and Tool Makers. For General Machine Shop Work.

High grade construction.

tools;

The

elegant in design, superior in

best foot

power

lathes made, and

quality considered, the cheapest.

SEND FOR CATALOGUE AND PRICES.

W.

F.

& JNO. BARNES CO

984 Ruby Street,

ROCKFORD, ILL.

- CHICAGO QoIIe,

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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

017 107 399 6

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