Vogue #406 - Year 1900

ao Sep tem ber, 1900 VOL. X V I., NO. 12 (WHOLE NUMBER 406).

PRICE

TEN

CENTS

PUBLICATION OFFICE, J WEST 2C olla rlrss Eton. N o. 6? G ir l’ s W ash F r o ck . N o. 66 B a th in g Suit. No. 67 C ircu lar S k irt w ith tu ck ed flounce. N o. 68 F a n cy C a pe. N o. 69 K im o n a D ressing S ack. N o. 70 Short W a lk in g S k irt. No. 71 N orfolk J a c k e t. N o. 7 1 N ew Corset C o v e r s. N o. 7 } T h r e e - P ie c e S k irt w ith platted flouncc. N o. 74 F a n cy P e ttico a t. No. 75 Short-Sleeved N ig h tgo w n . N o. 76 Y o u n g G ir l’ s D ress. N o . 7 7 Sim ple D ressin g G o w n . N o. 78 C losed D raw ers. N o. 79 F lan n el S hirt. N o. 80 T a ilo r S k ir t. N o. 81 T a ilo r J a ck e t to be w orn w ith N o. 80. N o . 82 Sho rt P ettico a t. THK NEXT PATTERN WILL BB N o. 8{ F a n cy B louse.

o f coupon with remittance o f fifty cents.

VOGUE To sleeves are also most convenient for informal dinners, etc. A pretty house gown for a woman in mourn­ ing is made o f black crepe de chine, fine chif­ fon and white embroidered mull. T h e skirt is either shirred to the depth o f ten inches or tucked to the depth o f the knees ; from there the fullness is allowed to flare. T h e under­ skirt is o f black taffeta finished with several ruffles. T h e belt is o f black chiffon with a knot and long ends on the left side. T h e bodice is made with elbow sleeves finished with full ruffles o f embroidered mull. T h e front is slightly bloused, the back is plain, collar and vest o f shirred white chiffon, sailor collar square over the shoulders and running down to the waist line in a point o f embroidered mull.

Broadcloth o f a very fine quality promises to be very popular again this winter, and it de­ serves to be, for it is universally becoming, wears well, and even if it is more expensive at first, lasts much better than the rougher cloths. On dit, that the long coat will be as popular T a n , black, blue and brown all seem to be worn as much as they were last season. T h e next season as it was last, and for a woman

with wider pieces at the corners o f the openings, which are laced together over the plaited chiffon with narrow black velvet. T h e bodice is o f plaited blue chiffon with high collar and a lownecked short bolero o f cachemire appliqued with lace. T h e yoke, front and sleeves are elbow length, slashed and laced together with black velvet like the skirt over the plaited blue chif­ fon.

PATTERN

COUPON

V o gue , 3 W e s t 29TH S t r e e t N ew Y ork

g N clo se d please find fifty cents, for which send by mail to my address below : Vogue Pattern N o. These patterns are made in medium size only.

FO R T H E H O STESS M e n u for F o r m a l D i n n e r

Sauteme

Celery

192

Martini cocktails Canapes de caviare Oysters on the half-shell Rolled brown bread Green turtle soup . Sherry Hors d’ oeuvres Olives Radishes Pimolas

N am e................................................................... Address................................................................

T h i* coup on must b e filled in an d m ailed V o ft ie , w hen rem ittan ce is m ade for pattern.

to

ABOUT

SH OE

Opening of “ T h e L in e n S t o r e ’s ” New Salesroom.

B U Y IN G

Here exists in the minds o f many people the idea that to purchase their furnish­ ings from Fifth Avenue shops is to pay in exorbitant prices the high rents which such establishments are obliged to pay. W e speak o f this lest there be any one who entertains such fallacious ideas concerning our business. W e maintain our handsome establishment on Fifth Avenue, where the very finest and most exclusive styles in shoes are to be found, but we rely upon large business rather than large profits to pay for our excellent location. A t Arnold’ s one-pays no more for the finest shoes that can be made than for a good shoe at any o f the so-called cheaper houses. It is this fact, together with the convenient location o f our establishment, that secures for us the patronage o f the most fastidious and dis­ criminating buyers and the excellence o f our shoes has caused us to be recognized as the regulators of shoe fashions.

T

There are doubtless many persons who upon their return to town will make their selections for the season’ s footwear, and to them we ex­ tend an invitation to visit our rooms, feeling certain that in the extent and variety o f our styles there may be models to suit them. Everything in foot wear for M en, Women and Children. W i l l i a m A r n o l d , 240 Fifth Avenue.

W e co rd ially in vite y o u r in spection o f our new and com m odious sale s­ room in the S p in n in g W h e e l B u ild in g, 3, 5, and 7 W e s t T w e n ty -s e c o n d S tre et. It is im m ed iately in the rear o f and connects w ith our T w e n ty -th ird S tre e t store, w hich has been co m p letely reo rg an ized and refitted. A ll o f our retail d ep artm en ts are now lo cate d on th e g r o u n d floor o f these tw o bu ild in gs — a floor o f g o o d ligh t, broad aisles, and p erfect ven tilation . H e re our in com parable asso rtm en t o f T a b le and B e d L in en s, D ress L in ens, A r t L in ens, T o w e ls and H a n d k erch iefs m ay be ca re fu lly and leisu rely in sp ected — an inspection, w hich, w e feel assu red , w ill fu lly ju s tify o u r rep uta­ tion as lead ers in the distribution o f fine flaxen products. O u r d ep a rtm en ts o f B ed C o v erin g s, F a n c y A r t M aterials, F re n ch and S co tch F lan n els, and rea d y m ade S ilk and F lan n el W a is ts are, likew ise, m ost co m p reh en sive. In e v e ry w ay, o u r facilities fo r p e rfe ctly sa tisfy in g th e n eeds o f o u r p atrons, are g r e a te r and b e tte r than e v e r before. To those who cannot call and view these goods— a word about our mail order departm ent: Through it the superior service and special advantages of “ The Linen Sto re” m ay be enjoyed in all parts of the country— a letter, at all times, receiving the same careful attention as a personal inquiry. On request we w ill mail free, our illustrated catalogue

JAMES McCUTCHEON & CO., 14 West 23d Street.

3, 5, and 7 W est 22d Street, N. Y.

P A T T E R N S

PERIODICALS Year

L ’ A rt de la Mode, - $3.50 Robes de Luxe, - - 8.00

o f any design in any

6 mo*.

$2.00 5.00

journal, also special

T h e leading French

unpublished

fashion

imported

designs for all pur­ poses ...........................

journals

or

A m erica.

Send ten

cents

sample

for

c o p ie s .........................

T he

M o r s e - B r o u g h t o n

Paris

3

EAST

19 T H

C o m p a n y

STR EET

M I L L E R ’S Autumn Sporting Hat

New York

L a B e l l e H e l& n e

A

SM ART

CO RSET

is an ab solu te essen tial tor th e w om an w h o w ould be m o d ishly dressed , bu t alter securing a corset th at l i rea lly sm art it is no less n ecessary to k n o w h ow ta set and fasten th e o u ter garm ents upon it. A w om an w h o does not k n o w h ow p ro perly to adjust h er clo th in g w ill never ap p ea r rea lly c h ic , no m atter w h o m a y be h er corsetiere. T h e above figure represents a corset w h ich has b een d esigned w ith a due regard to th e req uirem en ts o f fash io n , bu t at the sam e tim e allow s freedom and com fort to th e b o d y , and its w e arer w ill b e e n tir e ly free from an y sen se o f pressure and co n fin e m en t.

M R S. M . H. W R I G H T , CU STO M CO R SETS, 22 W est 22d Street, - N ew Y o rk . T h e A rt o f P ro p e r D ressing T a u g h t .

Laces.

Mcj

C lu ny and G old M edal Laces Novelties in Fancy Tuckings, Hemstitchings, and Revers on Mousseline and Taffetas.

Irish and Renaissance Lace Collars.

L a c e S carfs, V eils Pom padour Ruchings.

ScHoacHvaij/ dS K)t6^Stxe&t,

T he n ew est fashion in a Severe H a t for W alking, Driving, Golfing. Plain or Trimmed, from $7.00 upward.

E. M I L L E R 46 W e s t 34th Street, N . Y . NOTE.— Out-of-town patrons are requested to remit by cheque or mail order, upon receipt of which hats will be sent, securely packed, express charge* collectable upon delivery.

Th e above article w as printed in th e E v e n in g W orld of March 30th, 1900, and the cu t used sh o w s M m e. Gard­ n er’s French H ygienic C orset, as advertised in Vogue. T H E L A T E S T FR ENCH HYGIENIC C O R S E T

S U N D A Y . F E B R U A R Y 11. A V O ID IN G

ITS

E V IL S .

New York.

M illil lr!^ iS S s.vsrrsa

m m &Etm

flTme#

A p r il IX, 1900

Gardner, 52 Vest 21st S tre e t, City

Dear Madam: We take pleasure in c a llin g your atten tion to the attached complimentary mention

S rr !S:k S: rir I

r e la t iv e to your c orsets, which appeared in The Tribune o f February XI, 1900* Very re s p e c tfu lly ,

Adv. Mgr*

MME. G A R D N E R Corsets made to order 52 W est 21st Street

All the newest models. Corsets for reducing corpulence and lengthening the waist. Perfect fit guaranteed.

(C ontinued from page iii>

chine, blousing a little over the crossing; wide draped girdle o f the same, which fastens with a large shield-shaped buckle in Russian enamel, in petunia shades, with green and gold. T h e bolero is o f an openwork jet over cream taffeta veiled with mousseline. In the larger spaces glimpses of gold cloth are seen and a band of the jet net work borders it. T h e sleeves are o f velvet with a pointed jet-cap on shoulder and finished in points below elbow with netwoik bands. Bishop’ s puff o f cream chiffon drawn into jetted wrist-band ; high collar o f network with rows o f black velvet ribbon fastening at back with small stiff bows.

J\9te— Answers to Lorretpondentt omttted this -week, -will appear in Pogue o f 2 7 Sepu m b e r,

YOUMANS

MIDDLE PACK B e g i n n in g a t t h e L e f t . — Tailor gown o f gun metal broadcloth. T h e skirt is opened at the side over a panel o f black velvet, strapped across at intervals, and fastened with rather large gun metal buttons. T h e smart little coat is piped on all the edges with white cloth, and has, besides, a narrow band o f black velvet, edged with gold braid. T h e large collar and bell cu ff are o f white panne velvet, stitched with white. T h e under sleeve is o f black vel­ vet gathered into a long pointed cuff, which is wrinkled about the wrist. T h e chemisette is o f panne velvet in a Persian design in blue, gold and white. S e c o n d F ig u r e . — Gown o f cafe au lait crepe de chine. T h e skirt is cut in panels with small gores o f Renaissance inset. About the knees the skirt is strapped with three bands o f deep golden-brown velvet ribbon, ornamented with small cream-colored straw buttons. T h e bodice is draped over a small waistcoat o f the lace over doth-of-gold. T h e collar has three rows o f the velvet ribbon ending in front under the straw buttons, which continue down the front, forming a trimming. T h e sleeves are o f the lace with a small cap o f the crepe de chine at top finished with the velvet ribbon. T h e Finished in the new R I K K I - T I K K I - T back is slightly draped, and is fastened under a style. Trimmed or untrimmed from double row o f the buttons. T h e bottom is $6.50 to $10.00 bound with brown velvet ribbon, caught with a gold clasp and ribbon ends. T h ir d F ig u r e . — Panne velvet gown in a On and after September 23d there Persian design o f blue and pink, the blue pre­ will be displayed the latest imported dominating. T h e skirt is laid in v e ry shallow double-box plaits all the way around. T h e FASHIONS IN M ILLIN ERY .smart little bolero is bound with deep rose taffeta stitched. T h e collar and vest are o f in that department. Second floor. white shirred chiffon. T h e lower part o f sleeves are also o f the chiffon. T h e bolero is & SO N strapped across the vest and tied at the side E . A . M O R R I S O N with a bow o f the rose taffeta. 893 Broadway F o u r t h F ig u r e . — Bridal gown o f white satin Watteau plait starts from under th e lace yoke in back, and is slightly draped at the waist line, falling from there in soft folds to the bottom. APPLICATIONS DE JEUNESSE T h e bodice has a deep yoke o f point lace, and a AND BANDELETTES DU DR. DYS high girdle o f the same, a small space o f P repared b y V . D arsy plaited satin showing between. T h e front o f 54 F au b ou rg St. H o n o r* , P aris skirt is trimmed with a succession o f point lace 1 19 East z6th S tre e t, N ew Y o tk M adam e V . D a rs y w ill g iv e e x p ert fac ial flounces; the upper flounce continues down the treatm ent w ith D r . D y s ’ s co m p lex io n sp ecialties sides and entirely around the bottom o f traine. a t the follo w in g rate* p er ap p lica tio n : Long veil o f tulle caught with orange blossoms. Trtatmtnt with Bandthtttt at client' 1 r tiiF ir T H F ig u r e . — Opera cloak o f delicate dtnct Sf-OO. sit M m i. D ir ty 't htutt, f J O O . Trtatmtnt with Application dt Jtunust at green panne velvet, spotted with a darker (lltnt’s rtiidtnrt $10.00. A t M m t. D a n j't shade o f green to correspond with the plain htutt, $6.00. velvet yoke and sleeve tops. A silver spangle T h e results o f these treatm ents are rea lly marvelous and t h ii s yite m o f fa c ia l reju venation is fastened in the centre o f each polka-dot. is p o iitiv e ly follow e d b y no reaction . T h e trimming is o f heavy cream applique MM E. V . D A R S Y lace. 1x9 East z 6 th S tre e t, N e w Y o r k S i x t h F ig u r e . — Empire evening gown o f pale blue chiffon over blue silk. T h e flounce is o f a chiffon o f a deeper shade o f blue, and is spangled with blue and silver. T h e bolero and trimming are o f spangled passementerie. A large bow o f white tulle is caught at the bust with diamond buckle. of F all and W in t e r business. S e v e n t h F ig u r e . — Very smart driving or traveling coat o f tan-colored cravenette cloth. T h e back is extremely loose, and is buttoned provides a door to y o u r e sta b ­ from the side back seam to the bottom. T h e front is double-breasted. T h e lining is o f red lish m ent accessible to the and white plaid taffeta. T E N S O F T H O U S A N D S of E ig h t h F ig u r e . — Gown o f tabac-brown possible custom ers in N e w velvet. T h e skirt is cut in six gore*, which Y ork w h o areT e lep h o n e U sers flare very much at the bottom. T h e back it laid in two small box-plaits at the waist line. Rates for Telephone Service in T h e waist is tight-fitting; very long sleeve, Manhattan from $5 00 a Month. wrinkled from the elbow to the wrist. T h e One«Year C o n tracts. H o n thly P aym en ts bodice is draped with a scarf o f tan satin, spot­ ted with tabac-brown and finished with fringe. Hat o f cream-colored folded chiffon, trimmed with a large bow o f tabac-brown 15 Dey S tre e t. I ■ i W est 38th Street. velvet and a gold button.

M O R R I S O N ’S

CELEBRATED HATS ROUND HATS AND BONNETS CORRECT

IN

H ATS

F O R A L L O C C A S IO N S

Now on Exhibition

W rite for Booklet o f Styles Authorized A gents in Principal Cities

SPO RTIN G A N D OU TIN G H AT

,

STYLES

AUTUM N

1107 and 1109 Broadw ay Madison Square West

158 Broadw ay Near Liberty Street

105, 107, 109 Oxford Street, W .

,

440 M I L E S

Get Your Share

I N 495 M I N U T E S

The Telephone Service

every business day in the year between New

NEW YORK TELEPHONE CO.

Y ork and Buffalo, on the New Y o rk Central's

“ E m p ir e F

a stest

St a t e T

E x p r e s s ,”

r a i n in t h e

W

o rld.

It has imitators on both sides o f the Atlantic, but no equal anywhere. F o r a co p y o f th e “ L u x u ry o f M od e ra R a i w a y T r a v e l ," ten d a p ostage stam p t o G e o r g e H . D arn els, G e n e ra l P a s se n g e r A g e n t , G ra n d C e n tra l S ta tio n , N ew Y o r k .

p O L L O W I N G their announced plan, M essrs. L . D . Brown & Son Co. pre­ sent herewith a seasonable fashion for which their Silks are particularly suitable.

B R O W N ’S HIGH

GRADE

BLACK

SILK

TH E LATEST FALL N O VELTY

The following Parisian model is made from

Brown’s New Diagonal Serge Silk This model is a “ Princess ” gown with graduated plaits be­ ginning below the hip line, and extending to the bottom, allowing a flare six inches. The stock collar is cut with a high turret in back, bound with black velvet and stitched five times. The apron fron t is cut to fit the figure , the turrets are bound with black velvet, stitched five times and buttoned to the un­ der dress with black velvet buttons. The over sleeve is cut with turrets, bound with velvet, stitched and buttoned close around the tight-fitting under sleeve. The popularity o f this new fabric is assured. It combines the durability o f a wool serge with the elegance o f a silk gown. This silk is manufactured O N L Y by

TH E L. D. BROWN & SON CO. Silk Manufacturers,

598 Broadway, New Y o rk