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 ARRIVING  ARRIV ING & GETTI GETTING NG AROUND  AIRPORTS VENICE MARCO POLO AIRPORT Venice Marco Polo is one of Italy’s main airports, serviced by world class airlines from Emirates to Alitalia - the national carrier, flights are available to over 60 international and domestic destinations. Marco Polo is also popular with budget travellers with Easyjet offering numerous domestic and European connections. Marco Polo airport is just across the lagoon from the floating city with water taxis and waterbuses shuttling back and forth between Venice and the airport. Regular taxis and buses also connect the airport with Venice and Me stre.  There are a wide range of shops at the airport o ffering airport st andards from perfume and electronics to international newspapers whilst the regional delicacies on offer including excellent local wines and grappa make for excellent gifts. Foodwise there are a couple of places offering quick pizza and pasta

meals whilst there are also a number of cafes and bars perfect for grabbing a sandwich and that last espresso/Campari of your trip to Venice.QVia Galileo Galilei 30/1, Tessera-Venezia, tel. +39 041 260 9260, www.veniceairport.it.

GONDOLA 

obsessively alike - we haven’t measured ourselves, but apparently they must be 10.87m long and constructed using eight specific woods. So the question is not which gondola to choose, but what you want to see. Tours can be prebooked or you can negotiate a personalised itinerary with your gondolier - we love exploring the narrow back canals where Venice’s hidden beauty can be seen. The other big question, is of course, how much you are willing to spend.  The official minimum fare is €80 per gondola (for up to 6 person s) for 40 minutes. Prices fluctuate seasonally and can also depend on ones haggling skills, though in general group tours during the day are the cheapest option. For those on tight budgets the seven Traghetto ‘gondola ferries’, which simply shuttle back and forth across the Grand Canal, are a great way to have a gondola trip very cheaply (€2) even if it lasts barely a minute.

 The gondola is surely the most famous symbol of Ven ice. Perfectly designed for shunting around the shallows of the Venetian lagoon and the city’s narrow waterways, these exquisite handcrafted vessels have been a mainstay of Venetian life and culture for centuries. The gondola may have lost its place as the workhorse of Venice, though fleets of them continue to punt tourists around and come the first Sunday in September they race along the Grand Canal in the classic Regata Storica. Skippered by the proud (occasionally arrogant), stripped shirt wearing gondoliers, today’s gondolas are basically just for tourists and yes they can cost an  VAPORETTO arm and a leg to ride in (though there are ways to keep costs down) however Vaporetto or waterbuses are the way the masses travel in Venice, whilst we must admit that a ride in a gondola is a quintessential Venetian experi- they are not quite as romantic as a gondola they are a fraction of the cost ence and great way to explore this wondrous city. The gondolas themselves are and are a great way to get around and see Venice. The vaporetto network

has some 22 lines (some of which run seasonally) including countless lines along the Canal Grande and connections with practically all of Venice’s surrounding islands such as Murano, famous for its blown glass. Single use tickets start from €7 for 60 minutes, while tourist travel cards offer a much better value for most visitors, allowing unlimited travel for periods from 12 hours to 7 days. Note: remember to stamp your ticket in the yellow machine before getting on the vaporetto.Qwww.actv.it

WATER TAXIS One of the best ways to see Venice is from the water, and while gondolas may be the traditional favourite (and also the priciest option) the stunning fleets of luxury wooden water taxis have always taken our fancy (and are significantly less pricey). Water taxis don’t just offer luxury airport transfers from Marco Polo, they also shuttle visitors around Venice and between its islands, whilst a water taxi guided tour of the sights is a great way to experience the Most Serene Republic.

E S S E N T I A L   CITY

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GUIDES

Publisher IQBATORLtd. Italy In YourPocket Drenikova33,1000Ljubljana,Slovenia  Tel.+39 328083 1957,+38630 316602 [email protected] Director Niko SlavnicM.Sc., [email protected]

Editorial Managingeditor  Y uriBarron Writers  Writers  J ohn Bills,WillDunn, JamesCosier,YuriBarron i Barron Research FlorenceMénard Layout & Design RadomirLa zović Consulting Craig Turp Photos Shutterstock,Flikr,WikimediaComm o ck,Flikr,WikimediaCommons Cover photo Sonsam/Shuterstock Sales & Operations Management EvaTrinca, Niko Slavnic +393280831957 [email protected]

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WHERE TO STAY UPMARKET BAUER PALLADIO HOTEL &SPA  The five-star Bauer Palladio offers an unbeatable location on the peaceful Giudeccaisland,just across thewater fromSan Marco.As such,the viewsof Venicearebreathtaking h taking,someroomslookingoutoverthe waterandotherover thehotel’stranquilgardens.Inaddition,there’sa450squaremetrespawitheight e metrespawitheight treatmentrooms,andthewholethingishousedina16thcenturyconvent u ryconvent.While . While severalof theroomslookdated,thedecoris impressive,withantiquatedtapestriesandpaintings.A freeshuttleboatrunsbetweenthe hotelandSanMarco. QE-6,Giudecca33,tel.+390412703809/+390415207022,fax+3904152 0755 7,[email protected],www.palladiohotelspa.com.Open every day24h/aday.50rooms.

CORTE DI GABRIELA Somewherearound100percentofthe hotelsin s in Veniceclaimto bebothclassic andcontemporary,butnonemanagethisquiteaswellas CorteDiGabrielainthe e lainthe SanMarcodistrict.Thebrea r ict.Thebreakfastisutterlyexquisite,ofte s ite,oftencookedbythemanager ofthehotelhimself.It’sthissortofhand f .It’sthissortofhands-onservicethattrulyencapsulatesthefeel We first visited Venice more than a decade ago. Attempting to make the ofCorteDiGabriela.Theyclaimthatnotworoomsarealike,andtheyaren’twrong. t wrong. drive from Paris in a single day, we arrived sometime in the early morning Oneeven hasa circularbed!Venetian furnishingsandfrescoes provideatrue 19thhours and ended up sleeping in our rental car (a tiny grey Peugeot 206) to centuryatmosphere,allbe ita 19thcenturywitha h centurywitha free-to-useiPadprovid o -useiPadprovidedin save money on a hotel. Unfortunately, it seems St Martha, the patron saint eachroom.QD-4,CalledegliAvvocat i Avvocati-SanMarco3836,tel i -SanMarco3836,tel.+390415235077, . +390415235077, of hoteliers, was watching over our incredibly uncomfortable few hours of fax+39041 2413339,[email protected],www.cortedigabriela.com. half-sleep, as we awoke to find a parking ticket on the windscreen! Failing to fully appreciate the irony of the situation, we grudgingly took the train from CIPRIANI Mestre on the mainland to the island(s) of Venice proper - definitely worse for Located on GiudeccaIsland,HotelCiprianireally is thedefinition of old world wear and not exactly in the best of spirits, but still intent on checking another luxury.Wi th gloriousviews of theVenicelagoon and thegrand Palladian church famous city off our bucket list. of San Giorgo,Ciprianiisan island of tranquility existing outsideof thechaosof thePiazzaSanMarco.Relaxation o nisthe onlyoptionwhenfacedwith thebeautiBut Venice is not just another famous city. You always remember your first fulgardens,Olympic-sized swimming pooland luxury wellnessfacilities.The trip here, your first glimpse of buildings rising up out of the lagoon as you roomandwaitingservicebordersontheunbelievabletoo,withnothingleftto cross the causeway or approach by boat. Regardless of the mood you’re in, chance.QE-6,Giudecca10,tel.+39041240801/+3901852678451,fax . +39041240801/+3901852678451,fax +39 it’s impossible not to be enchanted by the mere sight of the Most Serene 041520 3930,re [email protected], www.hotelcipriani.com. Republic. Even for us, the city is still every bit as charming as it was on that morning more than a decade ago. Venice is a truly magical place, and there DANIELI is simply nowhere like it in the world, which is our rather long-winded way  The Danieli promises convenience, comfort and atmosphere, and they aren’t of saying that we are very pleased to introduce our first, and much overdue, far wrong.The viewsare breathtaking a king and thelocation simply cannot be Venice In Your Pocket (mini) guide. On the pages below we’ve just begun to beaten.There’sa s a reason theDanieliwaschosen asthelocation forlargeparts scratch the surface of what Venice has to offer, and are currently preparing of The Tourist, aswell asbeing thehotel of choiceforDickens,Byron,Goethe reams more content for the release of our full guide later this year. Until then and Steven Spielberg.It’sall e lberg.It’sall elegant columnsand old style wooden floors, keep up to date on our progress online at venice.inyourpocket.com or on brining to lifethe Venicethat existsin theminds of most. QE-4,Riva degli Facebook. And if you have any questions, comments or feedback of any kind Schiavoni 4196,tel. +39041 5226480, fax +39041 5200208, danieli@ i@ we’d love to hear it at [email protected]. luxurycollection.com, www.danielihotelvenice.com.

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WHAT TO SEE

90 BRAND STORES D SCOUNTS

UP TO 70

ALL YEAR ESSENTIAL SIGHTS BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

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Whilethe magnificent Byzantine-styleBasilicaof San Marco is Venice’smost recognisablesight,mostpeoplearelikely unawareofthe ratherroguish s h history behind both thechurch’sconstruction and theway in which St Mark cameto bethecity’spatron saint.Theshort version of the story isthat it wasoriginally built in 828to house theremainsof Mark theEvangelist,which werestolen fromtheirresting place in Alexandriaby Venetian merchantsand smuggled out of Egypt hidden beneath porkand cabbage(to dissuade Muslim customs agentsfromfinding them).Thereason forthis holy heist? TheDoge wasconvinced that the burgeoning Venetian Republicwould greatly benefit fromthe supernaturalprotection bestowed upon it by possessing therelicsof oneof theoriginalapostles.And given what transpired in thefollowing ninecenturies,it’shard to arguewith theresults. Of course history aside, the basilica itself is truly a sight to behold both inside and out, with its trademark domes and golden mosaics dominating the eastern edge of its namesake square. Dating from the end of the 11th century, its current form follows the layout of a Greek cross and is based on the Church of the Holy Apostle in Istanbul. The ceilings are covered with an astonishing 8000 square metres of gold mosaics, while the most impressive single work is the high altarpiece (the so-called Pala d’Oro or Golden Cloth), which depicts the story of St Mark and is encrusted with nearly 2000 precious gems. All things considered, it’s not hard to see why it’s nickname is the Church of Gold.QE-4,San Marco 328, tel. +39 041 2708311, www. basilicasanmarco.it. Open 09:45-17:00, Sun and holidays 14:00-16:00, Bell Tower open 09:00-15:45 in winter, 09:00-19:00 in Oct and spring, 09:00-21:00 in summer. Admission to basilica free, museum €5, Pala d’Oro €2, Treasury €3, Bell Tower €8.

WHERE TO STAY 

MOLINO STUCKY HILTON VENICE

BUDGET CASA SANT’ANDREA Sometimes‘no frills’isjust whatthedoctorordered.CasaSant’Andreacouldbe defined assuch,an certainly considered basic,but asfaras affordableoptions in anotoriously expensivecity go it’soneof the best.Situated in an old monastery,it’sin agreat location i on forthebus to and fromtheairport aswellasbeing afrequently used stop on the vaporetto (waterbus) routes.Wake up to the old monastery belland exploreVenicebeforethecrowdsfillthestreets.QB-3, SestiereSantaCroce495/B,tel.+390412770945,info@cas e reSantaCroce495/B,tel.+390412770945,info@casasantandrea. a ndrea.it, i t, www.casasantandrea.it.

WHAT TO SEE

on par with its Parisian counterpart in terms of worldwide recognition, the comparison is not entirely accurate. For instance, you won’t find many BRIDGES shops, restaurants or pavement cafés lining its banks, as only short sections of the canal actually have pavement. Along much of the Grand Canal, PONTE DEI SOSPIRI �BRIDGE OF SIGHS� the turquoise waters gently splash up against the fronts of the some 200 Givenits peculiarnameby LordByron,Venice’sBridgeof Sighsstill emanateshistoryfromitseverysurface.Bu f ace.Builtin1602afterthedesignbytheneph e rthedesignbythenephewofAntonioda palaces and other historic buildings found along its path. Many of the residences were built between the 13th and 18th centuries Ponte(ofRialto bridgefame),thecovered stonestructure connectsthe NewPrison by wealthy families, who often competed amongst each other to see who withthe Doge’sPalace.Theview ofVenicethrough thebridgeswindows andstone grillswasthe lastthatconvicts sawbeforeserving theirsentences,and legendhasit could build the most splendid and ornate homes, with Venetian interpretathatifacouplekissesonagondolaunderneathdur n eathduringsunsetwhi i ngsunsetwhilethebellsofthe l ethebellsofthe tions of Byzantine, Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical architectural styles all Campanileareringing,theyshallbegrantedeter l begrantedeternalloveandblis n alloveandbliss.Takethetourat well-represented. Of course the undisputed winners of these noble rivaltheDoge’s Palacetosee thatgrave,sigh-inducingview foryourself.QE-4. ries are the modern day tourists who get to view magnificent façades while traversing the canal. In fact, you could likely spend a lifetime making daily trips on and down the waterway, and still find new sights to feast one’s PONTE DEI PUGNI �THE BRIDGE OF FISTS� In the 17th century,autumn in Venicewas fighting season.For many reasons, eyes on each time. bethey clashing romanticinterestsor c interestsor tradesquabbles,men would meet on neighbourhood bridgesin orderto settletheissue with theirfists.ThesefistiPIAZZA SAN MARCO cuffsweren’tapprovedby thelawenforcement,buttheywere deemedmuch  Theh eart and soulof h istoricVenice, thedrawin g roomof Europe (according to betterthanthesharpenedstickfightsthatwerethe normpreviously.Themost y .Themost Napoleon),ground , ground zero forthe millionsof touriststhat pourinto thecity each famousof thesebridgeswas PontedeiPugni,near Campo SantaBarnabain year-PiazzaSan Marco istruly one of theworld’smost famousand impressive Dorsoduro.Today o .Today fourwhitemarblefootprintsmarkthe position fromwhere squares.Not overwhelmingly n gly massivein size,it doesfeel quitelargerelative thefighterswould begin. QC-4,Campo San Barnaba. to the labyrinth n th of narrowstreets,passagewaysand canalsthat most visitors haveto navigateto arrivethere.When theBasilicaof San Marco wasfirst constructed at thebeginning of the9th century,the squarethat lay in front of it waslittlemore than agrassy patch of land no morethan 60metresin length, but asVenice’swealth and powergrewso to did itscentralpublicspace.  The pi azza wa s expan ded to its pre sent si ze durin g the late 12th century, when the Rio Baratario canal was filled in and the Church of San Geminiano was demolished and moved much further to the west. The instantly recognisable Campanile took its present form in 1514, while the three-story buildings that still stand to the north and south were slowly built and rebuilt during the 1500s. In 1810, the twice unlucky Church of San Geminiano was once again demolished from its position at the western end of the square to make room for what is now known as the Napoleonic Wing, on the personal orders of the Little Corporal himself.  The small er lagoon- facing squ are to the so uthwes t may be offici ally know n by the diminutive title Piazzetta San Marco, but it does have claim to just as many points of interest as its larger sibling, including the Doge’s Palace, the Biblioteca Marciana (one of Italy’s most important libraries), and two large granite columns topped by two greatly important symbols: the winged Lion of Venice and St Theodore, the city’s original patron saint.QE-4.

PONTE DI RIALTO One of Venice’s most iconic sights, the Rialto bridge is also one of only four spans that cross the nearly 4km length of the Grand Canal. Taking its name from the the historical financial and commercial district found in its immediate area (which itself is derived from the Italian for ‘high bank’), the bridge’s first incarnation was as a floating pontoon structure built at the end of 12th century, which was shortly upgraded to a more permanent wooden bridge in 1255. However, in the three centuries that followed, the bridge was destroyed and rebuilt no less than three times - once by the GRAND CANAL Following the path carved out by an ancient river that once flowed into great fire of 1514 that engulfed the whole Rialto neighbourhood, and twice the lagoon, the Grand Canal divides the main island of Venice roughly into collapsing under the weight of spectators watching a boat regatta. two halves on either side of a 3.8km long inverted S-shape, which leads In the mid-16th century, local authorities finally decided that the construcfrom Santa Lucia train station to the Giudecca Canal and the edge of Piazza tion of a more resilient stone bridge was called for, and received proposals San Marco. Its width varies between 30 and 90 metres, and in a testament from many of the top Italian architects of the period, including the none

WHERE TO EAT  

CÀ D’ORO ALLA VEDOVA

OSTERIA ALLE TESTIERE A simple trattoria both inside and out, this eatery becomes a Michelin acclaimed gem when their amazing food is tasted. Widely praised, we waited in anticipation for the 19:00 sitting, with 20 or so other lucky diners (the restaurant seats an exclusive 24), and weren’t disappointed. Of all the fine dining in Venice, nothing gives the satisfaction more than the understated. Perfectly cooked scallops, prawns in ‘busara’ sauce, and a divine pumpkin ravioli were all top notch. Located a few hundred metres north of Piazza San Marco.QE-3,Castello 5801, Calle del Mondo Novo, tel./fax 0039 041 52 27 22 0, [email protected], www. osterialletestiere.it e testiere.it. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

HARRY’S BAR Harry’sbarwasopened in 1931by former bartenderGiuseppeCipriani.It has sinceacquiredlegendarystatus,courtesyof apatronageincludingthe likesof CharlieChaplin,EarnestHemingway,Alfred Hitchcockand OrsonWelles.Still run by theCiprianifamily,Harry’scurrently hasa fullmenu including n g soups, sandwiches, scampiand veal mains(among others) and of course,Harry’s Dolcicake fordessert.If nothing else,comefor thecocktails;the Belliniand Carpaccio wereactuall y invented here.QD-4,San marco 1323,tel. +39041 5285 777,fax +39041 5208 822, [email protected] a ni.com,www.cipriani. com.Open 10:30-23:30.20€ -50€. €€€€.

THE WESTIN EUROPA ®INA Asstrange asit might sound fora hotelwhere youcan easily spend €500a night foradoubleroom,theremight not be bettervalueforlocation in Venice than theWestin.With rooms overlooking n g theGrand Canal,the addition o n of its own personalpierforawatertaxiarrivalembellishestheromanceof thishotel. BarTiepolo insideisa littleon the expensiveside,but when sipping n g in such grandiosesurroundin o sesurroundingsit’seasyto seewhy.Lateat nighttheterracebarcomes alive.Great bedstoo.QD-4,San Marco 2159,tel. +3904124 0001, fax +39 041523153 3,europa.regina@wes n [email protected],www.westin.com i n.com.Open every day24h/aday.185rooms.

WHERE TO EAT  Truth be told, there are only two things you truly nee d to k now about Alla Vedova:authenticity and meatballs.Don’t expect hoardsof touristshere,this truly isVenetian cuisineoff thebeaten track.It’sthe typeof restaurant that attractsmainly locals,most s ,most of whom seemto be instinctively v ely drawn hereby the sheerq uality of theirmeatbal ls.Full of flavour,wereally can’t recommend them enough. Onet hing to note,they don’t accept credit cards,so carry cash when visiting.QD-2,Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio e gio 3912,tel. +39041 528 5324. Open11:30-14:30,18:30-22:30,Sun18:30-23:00.ClosedThu.

Situated e d in a19th century flour mill,theHilton Molino Stucky describesitself b esitself asa ‘modern Venetian masterpiece’ and that might just bean understatement .  Timber beamed ceilings dominate the elegant bedrooms, and there is a 24hourfitnesscentrefree to useby guests.However,forus thereal starof this h is showisthe rooftop swimming pool,situated 35mabovesea-level.Thereisn’t abetterplaceto watch thesun go down (orgo for aswim) in thecity.QB-5, Giudecca810,tel.+3904127 23311, fax +390412723 308, info.venice@ v enice@ hilton.com,www.molinostuckyhilton.com. Open 24h/a day.

GENERATOR VENICE On thehistoricalGiudeccaisland in south centralVenice,GeneratorVeniceis oneof the best (and only) accommodation optionsin thecity forthose on a tighterbudget.Dorms,quadsand privateen-suiteroomsareall e en-suiteroomsareall availablehere, and each bed comeswith an individualplug and LEDlight for somelate-night reading.The realjoy isin the downstairs360bar r s360bar however,an , an areathat isperGRITTI PALACE fect forsocialising i sing overa beerortwo. Thesee-through showerdoorsarea bit WhenthinkingoftheGrittiPalace,onlyonewordspringstoourmind:totalluxustrange,but weallhave ourquirks.QD-6,FondamentaZitelle86,Guidecca, riouselegance.Okay,that’sthreewords,butthere’sno wayof trulydescribing b ing tel.+39 041877 8288, [email protected],gen eratorhostels.com. thishotelina singleword.It isgrand,itis lavishanditis exactlywhatthename wouldsuggest.Somehowarelaxedairismaintainedthroughout.Theroomsare spacious,the foodisexcellentandthe verandabar givesyouwonderfulviews OSTELLA SANTA FOSCA Italy is known for many things, and a long Catholic history is one of those. overVenicewithcocktailsto s to diefor,forwant ofa betterphrase.GrittiPalaceis Ostella Santa Fosca is located in an old church campus, giving you the opthedefinitionofopulence.QD-4,CampoSantaMariadelGiglio i adelGiglio,2467,tel.+39 portunity to sleep in this very same history. It’s also connected to a uni041794611, fax+39 0415200942, [email protected],www. versity residence hall, so the atmosphere is a bit more lively and youthful thegrittipalace.com. than your average church. Unlimited free tea and coffee can keep even the sleepiest going, and the staff are extremely adept at providing advice on LONDRA PALACE your time in Venice. One thing to be aware of however, the common room In acity fullof hotelsrenowned fortheirbeautifulviews of Venice’sendless closes at 20:00 and the reception times are quite strict.QD-2,Fondamenta canals,theones affordedto youby theLondraPalacereally takethebiscuit. Canal, Cannaregio 2372, tel. +39 041 715 775, [email protected], Whetheryou’resippingcoffeeat sunriseordowningcocktailsatsunset,Venice www.ostellosantafosca.it.

WHAT TO S EE

WHERE TO EAT  

comesalivefrom thevariousrooms of theLondraPalace.Speaking of those cocktails,they l s,they may be pricey but they also s o happen to befantastic.The restaurant offersgreat food with generousportions,something that should be applauded in ahotelof such class.QE-4, RivaDegli Schiavoni -Castello 4171, tel.+3904152 0053 3,fax +3904152 2503 2,[email protected] o ndra.it,www. t ,www. hotelondra.it.

AL BACCO FELICE Can afine-dining pizzeriatruly exist? AlBacco Felice suggeststhat it can.A GAM GAM KOSHER fantasticplacefora c placefora slow,relaxedlunch,thissmallunassumingeatery provides  TheonlyKosherrestaurantin allofVenice,GamGamis somethingspecial.Sittingright apleasant atmospherethat’sperfect e that’sperfect for watching the day go by.Thestaff ac- attheentrancetothe oldestghettointheworld,GamGamcooksuphomeyfood centuatethis, e this, with astress-freeattitudeto service that contrastswith many withhuge varietyandeven biggerportions- seriously,theseare somebigportions! otherplacesin thecity.There’sa €2cover chargeperperson, but don’t let It’sverypopular,so werecommendmakinga reservationaheadoftime. Headthere that stop youfrom enjoying someof the best pizzain town. QB-3,Colledeona SaturdayeveningforShabbat,wheremealsarefree,costingjustasugges s arefree,costingjustasuggested gli Amai 197/E,Santa Croce, tel.+39 041528 7794, [email protected]. donation.Therestoftheweekisstillinexpensive,wit i ve,withmostofthemainsunder€1 h mostofthemainsunder€15. Open 12:00-15:30,18:30-23:00,Sat,Sun 12:00-23:30. QC-2,GhettoVecchio,SestiereCannaregio1122,tel.+39041 2759256/+39366 2504505,[email protected],gamgamkosher.com.Open 12:00-22:00. ANTICO MARTINI  The Antico Martini started out as a coffee shop in 1720 and has since grown IL RIDOTTO into oneof Venice’stop restaurants,thesedaysserving up fine Venetian spe- Down a sidestreet just off PiazzaSan Marco,Il Ridotto (which w hich translatesas a tesas cialitieswith i eswith an emphasison seafood.Being on San Fantin square,theterrace ‘reduced’) isadelightfully romanticintimateexperienc c intimateexperience.Thetwo-courselunch istoo good to misswhen theweatheris nice,otherwisethereare thethree tasting menuisgood valueat €28,and theattentiveand well-humoured e d staff  elegantdiningrooms.TheFenicetheatreisadjacent,makingitperfectfor pre- willadd to your enjoyment.They’llalso . They’llalso help out with the ratherintimidating showdinnerorafter-showdrinks,whiletheproprietor’snearby s nearbypiano bar(San winelist,which hasa great selection of choicesby theglass.Thefood is fresh Marco 2007) isals o open from22:00. QD-4,San Marco 1983,tel.+39041 52 and fullof gutsy localflavours,and its popularity i ty with thelocalscan only be 3702 7/+39041 5224 121, [email protected],www.anticomartini. a good thing.Book ahead to avoid disappointment.QE-4, Campiello Santi com.Open .ClosedTue.€€€€. Filippo e Giacomo,Castello 4509, tel.+39 041520 8280,info@ilridotto. com,www.ilridotto.com. €€. AROMI  TheVe niceHilto n’sflagship restauran t Aromigoe sa long way towardsprovi ng MET RESTAURANT that thesouth of the country doesn’t havea monopoly on quality Mediter-  The chargeof s tagnation is something that Luca Veritti and his staff at the Met ranean food.Open fromApriluntil October,dinershavea , dinershavea choiceof eitherthe Restaurant can’t beaccused of.ThisMichelin starrestaurant isunique in that it interiordining n g roomor thepanoramicterrace- thelatterisquiteobviously the offersTra’Contemporar y cuisine,helping it tostand out brighterthan most.The betterchoice,affording guestsmagnificent viewsof the Giudeccacanaland ideaissimple enough:traditionalrecipesdeconstruct o nalrecipesdeconstructed e d with amodern spin. Venice’sskyline.Sure,thepricesaretypicalof theHilton name,but the sophis-  There sult can bring out some peculiarae sthetics, but thisis truly arare joy.The ticated setting n g makesyoufeel likeyou’reat least getting yourmoney’sworth. décorisall 17th century paintingsand n tingsand antiques,topping off thismost unique QB-5,Giudecca810,tel.+390412723311,www.molinostuckyhilton.com. of gastronomicexperiences.QF-4,Riva degli Schiavoni,Castello 4149,tel. Open 19:00-22:30.€€€€. +39041 5240034, [email protected],www.hotelmetropole.com. BACARO OSTERIA BARABABAO

MIRAI

Somemay callthedécorunconventional,but , but wethink it addsextralayersof enchantment to Barababao.Hidden down a narrowlanejust a fewminutes’ walkfrom Rialto bridgein the Cannaregio district,those who find it willbe l lbe rewardedwith acomplimentaryglassof Proseccoupon arrivaltheirarrival.All thefood is prepared e d to orderto guaranteesome of thefreshest mealsin the city,and theservingsare generousto say theleast.Plus anything with t h black squid inkon themenu isfine with us. QE-3,Cannaregio 5835,tel. +39041 5221061, [email protected],nuk e.barababao.it.

Ina sea,orratherlagoon,ofonlyVenetianandItaliandiningoptions,somewill o ns,somewill inevitablytireof allthepasta andseafoodsauces andcravefor somethingdifferent. Asiancuisineis n eis notverywellrepresentedherein Venice,butMiraioffersa more thanacceptablealternativ n ative.Withfreshmarketboughtfishtheychurnout some veryrespectablesashimi,maguroandtempura,whichdespitebeingexpensive, v e, aretoa comparablestandar e standardof d of theUSor othermoresushi-fondEuropeanciti o peancities. e s. Locatednearthetrainstation.QC-2,Rio TeràListade Spagna,Cannaregio227, tel.+39041 2206517,www.miraivenice.com.Open19:30- 23:00.ClosedMon.

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QUADRI  The onl y fine din ing expe rience to be had o n San Marco piazza itself, t he Quadri is one of the city’s top restaurants. Featuring some of the first dark wood furnishings and sparkling chandeliers that would come to characterise a quintessential Venetian dining room, it is presently run by the Alajmo family. Silvio Giavedoni and the sous chef Denis Mattiuzzi maintain a menu of increasingly traditional Venetian cuisine, the fish coming direct from the city’s lagoons and Rialto market every day. Tasting menus range from €180220 without wine.QE-4,720 Sestiere San Marco, tel. 0039 041 52 89 29 9, fax 0039 41 52 08 04 1, [email protected], www.quadrivenice. com. Open 12:00 - 14:30; 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon. €€€€.

TRATTORIA CORTE SCONTA Don’t let the unassuming façade fool you, inside this little restaurant is a beautiful courtyard perfect for outdoor dining. This is traditional food done well. It can be a little tough to find, down narrow alleys and anonymous streets, but it is worth the effort. Vegan and gluten-free choices are also available. The immense selection of antipasti can be daunting, but the attentive staff will help you out at a moments notice. QF-4,Calle del Pestrin 3886, Castello, tel. +39 041 522 7024, [email protected]. Open 12:30 - 14:30, 19:00-21:30. Closed Mon, Sun. VENISSA In Venice, fine dining isn’t restricted to the main island. Hop on the Motonave ferry and take a half-hour journey out to the little island of Mazzorbo. Formerly a spiritual retreat for the rich, Mazzorbo is now home to Venissa, an estate that is home to vineyards, a small guesthouse and this wonderfully elegant restaurant. To call it idyllic would be doing it a disservice. The setting is reflected in the delightful food, with ingredients almost entirely sourced from the surroundings. The seasonal nature of the cuisine means the menu changes almost daily. Venice simply doesn’t get any more tranquil.QFondamenta Santa Catarina 3, Isola di Mazzorbo, tel. +39 041 52 72 281, fax +39 041 52 72 323, [email protected], venissa.it.

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OSTERIA DA FIORE What isn’t there to love about eating in an old Venetian tavern? This odd yet charming space provides quality cuisine, all be it with often challenging ingredients. The subtle tastes on the menu might not fit all palettes, but the elegance of Da Fiore is undeniable. Book well ahead in order to secure the balcony table overlooking the canals, surely one of the most romantic spots in the entire city.QC-3,San Polo 2002, tel. +39 (041) 721308, [email protected], www.dafiore.net. Open 12:30 14:30, 19:30-22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€.

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CHURCHES BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA DELLA SALUTE In a city full of classic, instantly recognisable sights, it is the silhouette of what the locals lovingly refer to as La Salute that finds its way into the background of perhaps the most photographs and canvasses. Built in the 17th century to celebrate the ending of the plague, subtlety was not something on the artist’s agenda. The huge octagonal building was constructed on a platform of more than one million wooden piles, taking more than 50 years to complete. In contrast to the bright gold of the Basilica di San Marco, the interior here is much more austere, but it is home tto works

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