Vegetable Production Guides - Prime Seedco Booklet (2020)

 

 

VEGETABLE GROWING GUIDES

 

 

VEGETABLE GROWING GUIDES Index Baby Corn Broccoli -

-------------------- ----

-------

------ -------------

----------

---

Cabbage- - - - - - - - - - ------------------

------

-- 1 --- ------ 5

- --- ---------

10

Carrots - - ------------------- - ------------- --Cauliflower - - - - - - - - - - - - ---------- - - - ------ -------

14 19

Cucumber

24

------------- ----------

- - - -- ------- -----

Field Tomato - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -----Green Bean

------------

Lettuce - - -

------------ ---------

Okra - - - - - ----------Onion - - - Pea - - - -

----- --------------- ------- 35

-----

---- ------

---------- 64

------- ------ ----- ---- ---- 71 ------ ---------- -------- ----

Rape - - - --------- -------- -----

-- -------------

Tunnel / Greenhouse Tomato-

Watermelon --- ----

75

--------

Spinach- - - --------- -------- ----- -------- ------

Sugar Bean - - - - - - - -

----- ---- 49 - - 56

-----

Squashes / Butternuts-

44

----- -------- -----

---- ---- ---

Potato Tubers - - - - - - ----

----- ----

----- ------- -----

--------- -- --- -----

Potato TPS - - - - - - - -

------- -- --- ----- 39

----- -------

------------

Pepper - - --------

---- -------- -- 29

------ -

84 -

89

---------------- ------ - 94

-- ------

---------- ----- - - - 99

-- --------------------------- - - --103 ------ ---- -----------------------------------------------------------------109 ------------109

 

Baby Corn Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution 

General Baby corn are the unfertilized and undeveloped cobs of the maize plant. The crop is relatively quick and inexpensive to grow making it well suited as a rotational crop in any horticultural operation.

Cultivars Only use recommended cultivars supplied by Seed Co such as Thaigold, Prime Gold   & SG18. NB: Seed Co also supplies excellent sweetcorn varieties including Sentinel and Mint .

Soil and Fertilizer Most soils are suitable for Baby corn production. As a general guideline if your soils are in the following range, yields will be maximized. pH 5.0-6.4 P205 (ppm 30-40 K2O (meq 0.2-0.4  A general recommendation for baby corn fertilization fertilization is: 350-400 kg/ha Compound D or Z should should be banded 5 cm below and to the side of the seed. On very light sandy soils use 200 kg / ha AN as topdressing split application at knee height and waist height. On heavier soils less AN may be used.

Population  A population of 120 000 plants per per hectare is ideal. This may be achieved achieved by several methods. methods. a. Machine planting. Rows 75cm apart with one seed every 11 cm apart. b. Hand planting. Rows 75cm apart with 3-4 seed every 22cm apart thinned to 2-3 plants at two weeks. c.) Hand planting. Beds 1.5m center to center. Two rows per bed +/-30cm apart. Intra row spacing either one seed per 11cm or 2-3 seed per 22cm stations. Quantity of seed used depends on the cultivar used and can vary from 30-60 kg/ha. Count the number of seeds per 1kg in order to accurately establish the quantity of seed required per hectare. Baby Corn | Page 2

 

Irrigation It is important to keep the surface of the soil moist during germination, thereafter 24 to 32mm per week should be applied depending on the weather. The crop should never be stressed at any time as this adversely affects yield.

 Agro-chemicals for Baby Corn Maize Streak Virus: Gaucho 600 FS @ 5,5ml per kg seed Weeds: Grasses and Broadleaf: Bateleur Gold @ 1,2lts per ha Cutworm: Karate Zeon @ 100ml per ha Stalk borer and pink bollworm: Karate Zeon @ 200ml per ha

De-tasseling Plants must be de-tasseled just after tassels have emerged. This is important to ensure that pollination does not take place and result in seed growth causing excessive cob size. It also brings on harvesting faster, increases the number of cobs and gives better cob development. labor for de-tasseling is approximately 5.5 labor days per hectare. de -tasseling. Note: Some Baby Corn varieties are male sterile so do not require de-tasseling.

Harvesting Reaping starts within a week of de-tasseling. It is crucial to harvest at the correct stage as cobs become oversized very rapidly and then have no market value. As a very rough guideline the cobs must be harvested when 1cm of silk is exposed. This, however, varies with the different varieties as well as the cob number being removed from the plant. There can be up to three cobs picked per plant. The unsheathed cobs should be between 1 and 2.5cm in diameter and between 7 and 12cm in length. Plants should be harvested daily to ensure that one does not get behind picking. Harvesting continues for a period of two to three weeks. At the peak of harvesting 10 pickers per hectare should be enough and should be able to pick well over 100kg per person per day. The gross yield (including the sheaths) should amount to about 11t/ha which will give an average 10% net export yield.

Baby Corn | Page 3

 

Post Harvesting Handling Cobs must be placed in the shade immediately after harvesting. The cobs can be covered with wet hessian to keep cool. They must then be stored in a cool place like a shed and will not deteriorate while the husk is still on. Cobs can be sent to the pack house either in the complete sheath, or as cigars, where the outer layers of the sheath have been removed and the bottom of the sheath cut off. This reduces transport costs.

Grading and Packing If grading and packing are to be done on farm then the cobs must be checked for worm damage, deformities and other blemishes. All silks must be removed as any remaining on the cob soon turn brown. A guide for grading and packing is to start with 40 punnets per person per day and to increase to a target of 60. Once the husk has been removed it is essential to place the cobs into cold storage as soon as possible (3 degrees).

Silage The tassel, silks, husks and stalks are all a good source of nutrition rich in protein. approximately 50 tons of fresh leaf and stalk per hectare will be available at the end of picking. It will have the following breakdown: 22.7% dry matter containing: 5.7% total protein 1.8% fat 26.45 ber 59.9% nitrogen free extract (NFE) 6.2% minerals (0,31% calcium and 0.04% phosphorus) 57.3% total digestible nutrient 2.2% digestible protein The nutrition is similar to that of fresh para-grass

Baby Corn | Page 4

 

 

Broccoli Production & Spray Guide

Broccoli | Page 5

 

Broccoli Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

General Broccoli is a vegetable rich in vitamin C, protein, fiber and flavor. It is also known as a “Super Food”. Broccoli belongs to the “Brassica – Genus” closely related to Cabbage, Brussels sprouts and Cauliflower. Broccoli types are, Large headed varieties, Sprouting varieties and Romanesco varieties. Large headed are the standard type with heads weighing from 400grams up 850 grams. Sprouting broccoli like Purple Sprouting and Green sprouting broccoli produces numerous heads on long stalks and Romanesco varieties produce elegantly swirled heads composed of symmetrically pointed spirals. These large plants need plenty of growing space. The Broccoli is grown during the cool weather conditions of winter. During the hot, wet conditions of summer the head sizes tend to be smaller. Consult a Seed Co Agronomist on which are the best varieties for winter and summer production. Broccoli is easier to grow than its relatives Cauliflower and Brussels sprouts and can produce bountiful crops. Broccoli is always in high demand on the dinner table.

Site Selection Broccoli grows very well in medium to medium heavy clay loam soils with good water holding capacity. It can be grown however in more sandier soils but will require more frequent irrigations and higher fertilizer rates. PH levels should be form 5.8  –  6.5 as broccoli likes to have an alkaline soil. Broccoli responds very well to compost and organic enriched soils. Levels round 25  – 35 tons per hectare of well- prepared compost or farmyard manure will benefit the crop and

help reduce the levels of costly fertilizers. Make sure compost and manure are well broken down when put in the fields or root burn may occur. Chicken litter can also be used at 2  – 5 tons per hectare but must be well composted. If ploughing, plough to a depth of 30  –  35cm which will make sure that the soil is prepared for good root development, but make sure any old plough pan is broken up. If ripping, then discing is preferred to prepare a fine tilth. The soil should not be too cloddy, also not to fine. During winter months, if possible, plant on North facing slopes to achieve better soil warmth.

Spacing If planting on beds which are at 1.5m center to center the in row should be 30cm apart and two rows placed on the bed 50  –  60cm apart. This should give approximately 44,000 plants per hectare. Planting on the flat, rows can be 40cm apart and in row of 35cm apart. Higher plant populations give smaller heads so populations should be governed by market requirements. r equirements. Broccoli | Page 6

 

Fertilizer Broccoli can be susceptible to hollow stem problems caused by a Boron deficiency. If there is a Boron deficiency in the soil, apply Solubor as a foliar spray every 2 weeks at a rate of 10grams/ 1 liter of water. A balanced Basal type fertilizer of either “A” “B” or “C” should be applied before planting. A vicon spreader can be used to broadcast the fertilizer on the flat or a ridger type applicator to apply the fertilizer if the crop is to be grown on beds. Cupping with fertilizer cups by hand into the pre-marked planting holes can also be done but the fertilizer must be well mixed in the hole with the soil to prevent root burn. Based on soil analysis results, the rates of fertilizer f ertilizer can be adjusted to the rate to be applied and if compost or manure have been applied the rate can also be reduced. Fertilizer rates of 500kg  – 750kg per hectare can be applied. Broccoli requires around 400kg per hectare of A.N. split

into 3 applications from 3 weeks up to 6 weeks after transplanting. If the crop is being planted on sandier soils and during the rainy season, extra top dressings might be required after heavy leaching rains. Plantings going into mid-winter should be top dressed with Calcium Nitrate, instead of A.N. as it works quicker in cool soils.

Seedlings Planting with seedlings is the most practical method. Use a recognized nursery where strong and healthy seedlings are produced. Transplanting good seedlings this gives a base for a more uniform crop, which reduces costs at harvest time. Order around 10% more seedlings for your selected plant population from the nursery to ensure best seedling selection when transplanting. When using seedlings or speedlings as they are most commonly known, at transplanting make sure that good plug to soil contact is made so the root system can leave the plug and quickly enter the soil enriched with either fertilizer or compost. Plant the speedlings as soon as possible after collecting them from the nursery to avoid the tiny hair roots from drying out. Plant the plugs/speedlings into pre-irrigated soils in which the field has been brought up to field capacity.  After transplanting a light settling-in irrigation is required to remove tiny air pockets between the plug and the soil.

Varieties Selection of a variety depends if it is to be marketed as fresh or frozen. Broccoli is usually a cool weather crop but can be grown year-round with correct variety selection, this is where your Seed Co Agronomist can advise. Seed Co has a range of well adapted broccoli hybrid varieties including Cigno F1, Form Form oso F1 F1,, Montop F1 and a summer variety called Corato F1. Broccoli is quite frost tolerant. There are two types, heading and sprouting. Sometimes selected varieties mightmaturity producedates side varying shoots once the –main head has been harvested. Variety selection will also have from 60  75 days.

Broccoli | Page 7

 

Harvesting Time of harvest is primarily determined by the tightness of the florets and not by the size of the head. The head should be firm and compact, not opening and loose. If leafy points have come through the head before harvesting it shows harvesting is late, or the plant has been under stress. This is more common in hot summer weather conditions when head size is generally smaller than in winter production. When harvesting cut the central stalk at a 45-degree angle, 13  – 20cm below the head. This will keep water from pooling inside the cut stem and causing rot.

Broccoli has a poor shelf life at ambient temperatures so the harvested heads will require cold storage or to be delivered to the fresh market in the shortest possible time. Brown or Purple beads is a physiological problem that is more prevalent under hot humid conditions.

Irrigation Regular water applications during the dry winter months is essential. Overhead irrigation or center pivot irrigation is the most common followed by flood and more recently drip irrigation, which is becoming more affordable. Broccoli like cauliflower, the irrigations must be spot on or “Hollow stem” will occur due to fluctuations of water levels in the soil. Approximately 600mm – 

750mm of irrigation should be allowed to produce a quality Broccoli crop. Therefore, planning water usage from dams, rivers and boreholes can be worked out to match hectares to be planted. As the plant increases in size and leaf area, and the head starts to form, the amount of water required also increases. Irrigation should be planned on a weekly basis and the soil depletion area checked regularly to plan for the next irrigation cycle. A quick test is to take a fist full of soil in your hand, squeeze it to form a ball then tap the “ball” with your finger, if it collapses it is becoming dry and irrigation should be applied immediately. Preferably it should not have gone as far as this stage. The use of an evaporation pan should help with scheduling.

Rotations In rotation planning do not follow with Broccoli if the previous crop has been a Brassica type i.e. Cabbage, Cauliflower or Rape. Always rotate with a legume or root crop.

Broccoli | Page 8

 

Broccoli Spray Guide Stage

Nursery

Days:

0-30

Transplanting & Establishment 30-35

Floret

Rapid Leaf Growth

Formation

40-60

50-70

Floret / Head Expansion

65-90

Harvest

 Agrochemical

Rate/ha

90-130

grams or ml/100 Lts water @ 500 Lts water/ha

EU MRL mg/kg

Days to Harvest (phi)

Pest Problems Soil Pests & Aphids

 Actara Soil drench or Dip

Cutworms

Karate Zeon / Ampligo

Diamond back Moth  Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

General Caterpillars

 Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim  Actara Soil drench

Disease Problems Damping off & Black Leg  Apron Star Seed Seed Dress

Bacterial Black Rot

Bion / Copper Oxy

Downy Mildew

Revus / Ridomil / Folio Gold / Bravo

Club Root

Quintozene

Alternaria, Powdery Mildew, White Blister &

Actara 25 WG drench

500gm

5 g/1,5Lts water/100m

0.2

n/a

Actara 25 WG foliar spray

250gm

50

0.2

7

Karate Zeon 5CS

100ml/ha (cutworm) 200ml/ha (bollworm)

20/40

0.1

2

Proclaim 05SG

250gm

50

0.01

2

Ampligo 150ZC

250ml

50

1

3

Match 050 EC

600ml

120

0.2

14

Polo 500SC Apron Star

600ml 2.5gm/kg seed

120

3kg

600

20

2

Bion 50 WG

30-60gm

6-12

0.02

14

Amistar op 325 SC

750-800 ml

150-160

1

21

Revus

500ml

100

2

2

2Lts

400

0.2

7

Bravo 720 SC

1,4 Lts

250

5

7

Ortiva 250 SC

500-600 ml

100-120

5

14

Dual Magnum 960 EC

1,25 Lts

250

0.05

n/a

Fusilade Forte

1 Lt

200

0.2

28

Gramaxone

2 Lts

400

0.02

na

Touchdown

2lts

400

0.1

na

T  Folio Gold

Weed Problems Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals |B ro co li

Pre-emergence: grasses P

 

Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown Dual Magnum

a g e 9

 

Post-emergence: Post-emerge nce: grasses

3 At Planting

Copper Oxychloride

Bravo / Ortiva / Score

Ring Spot

0.1 Seed Dress

Fusilade Forte

 

 

Cabbage Production & Spray Guide

Cabbage | Page 10

 

Cabbage Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

Site Selection Soils can be medium to heavy with good water holding capacity. Sandy soils tend to require more frequent irrigation cycles and require higher levels of fertilization. PH levels should be between 5.5 and 6, so soil samples need to be taken prior to planting. Cabbages respond very well to compost enriched soils. Levels of 20 to 30 tons per hectare of well-prepared compost will benefit and reduce levels of fertilizer. Manure and chicken litter can also be used but must be well broken down and composted or root burn will occur. Manure 10 to 20 tons per hectare and chicken litter 2 to 5 tons per hectare. Ploughing should be done to a depth of 30  – 35cm making sure the old plough pan is broken up. Ripping then discing is also a way to prepare a tilth for planting. Final tilth must not be too cloddy or too fine. It is recommended that you dip your seedlings in a solution of Actara to give the plants 6 weeks protection from aphids and whitefly.  Also apply a foliar spray of Bion to t o the seedlings to activate the plants' own defense mechanism against bacterial and virus attack.

Spacing

Planting can be done on beds during the rainy season which helps with drainage and on the flat during the winter period. If beds are made, they should be 1.5m center to center with 2 rows on the top of the bed between 50 to 60cm apart and planting stations 30 to 35cm in row. Planting on the flat rows can be 50 to 60cm apart and planting stations 35 to 40cm in row. Plant populations should be between 33,000  –  40,000 depending on market requirements. Higher plant populations tend to give smaller head sizes.

Fertilizers  A balanced basal Compound type fertilizer of either “A”, “B” or “C” should be applied prior to planting. This can be done using a Vicon spreader if growing on the flat or a ridger type applicator if planted on beds. Cupping with fertilizer f ertilizer cups by hand into the planting hole can also be done but the fertilizer must be well mixed in the hole to prevent root burn. Based on soil analysis results and soil types, rates of fertilizer can be applied ranging from 600kg  –  1,000kg per hectare. Cabbages will require around 400kg a hectare of AN split into 3 applications between weeks 2 and 8 after transplanting. During the rainy season if the crop is planted on lighter soils an extra top dressing might be needed after heavy leaching rains.

Cabbage | Page 11

 

Seedlings Planting with seedlings is the most practical method as seedlings which are strong and healthy at transplanting is the base for a uniform crop helping with reduced costs at harvest. Plant around 10% more plugs per hectare of your selected plant population, this should ensure good seedling selection. When using seedlings or speedlings as they are also known, at transplanting make sure good plug to soil contact is made so the root system can leave the plug and quickly enter the fertilizer enriched soil. Plant the speedlings as soon as possible after pulling them from the trays to avoid the tiny hair roots drying out. Plant into pre irrigated soils in which the soil has been made up to field capacity. After transplanting, a light settling-in irrigation is required to remove air pockets between the plug and the soil. It is recommended that you dip your seedlings in a solution of Actara to give the plants 6 weeks protection from aphids and whitefly.  Also apply a foliar spray of Bion to the seedlings to activate the plants own defense mechanism against bacterial and virus attack.

Varieties Selections of a variety depends on where it is to be marketed. Cabbage varieties vary in size from 2.2kg up to 7kg per head. Varieties must be selected if to be grown in summer or winter. Summer varieties must be “Black Rot Tolerant”; this disease comes in during hot humid  weather and can decimate a crop if not resistant to “Black Rot”. Varieties need to have a waxy layer to deter “Diamond Back Moth” from damaging the crop. Seed Co supplies a good range of

varieties that can be planted in summer during the rains, with amazing black rot and Fusarium yellow tolerance like the hybrids   Fabiola F1,  Delight   and  Marcanta.  A good “self -wrapping -wrapping”  type of cabbage is necessary to retain quality and freshness. Color of the head is important for the market and the shape. Contact a Seed Co Agronomist for advice of which variety to plant and at which time of the year and for market advice.

Harvesting Cabbages are ready for harvest when the head is firm to the touch when pressed and the veins on the outside leaves just begin to crack. Ideally about 60% - 70% of the heads should be cut at first harvest, ensuring maximum yield potential. Depending on variety selection and time of year, cabbages mature from about 65 – 130 days after transplanting.

Irrigation During the dry winter months irrigation is essential. Overhead sprinkler irrigation is the most common, followed by flood and more recently “drip” irrigation. During summer production, being able to apply irrigation during long dry spells will ensure a good even viable crop. Approximately 600mm  –  750mm of irrigation should be allowed to produce a good crop. So, planning water usage from, dams, rivers, and boreholes can be worked out to match hectares to be planted. As the plant increases in size and leaf area, the amount of water required also increases. Irrigation should be planned on a weekly basis and the soil depletion area checked regularly to plan for the next irrigation cycle. The use of an “Evaporation Pan” should help with this. On medium to heavy clay soils irrigation should be given when approximately 25% of available water has been used. Cabbage | Page 12

 

 

Cabbage Spray Guide Stage

Nurser y

Days:

0-30

Transplanting & Establishment 30-35

Rapid Leaf Growth

40-60

Floret Formation 50-70

Floret/Head Expansion

65-105

Pest Problems Soil Pests & Aphids

 Actara Soil drench drench or Dip

Cutworms

Karate Zeon / Ampligo

Diamond Back Moth

 Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

General Caterpillars

 Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim

Aphids

 Actara / Ampligo / Polo

 Actara So il drench

Disease Pr oblems oblems Damping off & Black Leg

 Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Black Rot

Bion / Copper Oxy

Downy Mildew

Revus / Ridomil / Folio Gold / Bravo

Club Root

Quintozene

Alternaria

 Amistar Top/Bravo / Ortiva / Score

Weed Problems

C

Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals Pre-emergence: grasses |

e

g

a

b

b

a

Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Dual Magnum

e

g

a

P

Post-emergence: grasses

3

1

Nutgrass (Yellow)

Fusilade Forte Dual Magnum

Harvest 105-135

 

 

Carrots Production & Spray Guide

Carrots | Page 14

 

Carrots Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

General Carrots are a very popular vegetable as they are rich in Carotene (Pro Vitamin “A”). Carrots are produced for the marketplace and are used as a fresh cooked vegetable, also raw in salads. They are either sold tied in bunches with the leaves attached, in packs of sliced or diced and in packs plain with leaves removed. The main demand in color for carrots is the orange to orange red. Novelty colored varieties such as purple, yellow, red and white are also available from seed houses. Carrots are also used in mixed vegetable packs in supermarkets. Carrot shape mostly needed in the marketplace is for a cylindrical to longish tapered root. There is also a market for conical baby carrots, longer more cylindrical fine baby carrots and to a lesser degree round carrots. For type, color and where the carrot is to be marketed, the time of the year, ask a Seed Co Agronomist for this information. Carrots are hardy and can stand winter cold and medium frosts. They do best in a temperature range of 10° C to 28° C. Carrots will germinate slower in cool soils so if plantings are sequential take this into consideration. Germination is quicker in warm soils. In most areas of the country carrots can be grown year-round.

Soils  A sandy loam to loam soil with a deep, well drained friable structure is highly preferable. Lighter textured soils are also used because the carrot seems to be smoother, straight, has a good appearance and the roots are easily washed. Soils should be free from stones, no restricting layers and not prone to capping. If organic matter is being used in the rotation, do not plant carrots immediately after this application, better plant carrots as a second crop in the rotation as soils with fresh humus or compost tend to make the roots hairy or forked, rough and course on the outside and develop excessive leaf growth. The soil should have a PH value of 5.5  – 6.5 so have the soils checked and follow the soil analysis recommendation. The soil should be deep ploughed or deeply sub soiled to break up any root obstructing layer. After this the soil should be harrowed once or twice to achieve a level, fine, loose, slightly firm soil surface ready for planting. Beds should be 1.5m  – 1.8m center to center with at least 1m -1.2m top section for planting on and around 30cm  – 35cm high. Ridges can also be made up 50cm or 75cm apart, 30cm  – 35cm high with one row planted on the 50cm ridge and two rows on top t op the 75cm ridge.

Varieties Chose the best Seed Co varieties that give you the best yield, quality, disease tolerance and uniformity such as the hybrid He Hekl kla a F1 and Nantindo Nanti ndo F1. Carrots | Page 15

 

Seeding Planting is normally done with a precision planter direct drilling the seed into the grown. Seed can be obtained coated which is preferable or uncoated. Seed can also be graded to achieve even stands. Seed size can be between 1.25mm and 1.75mm. The advantage of the larger size seeds is that they germinate more uniformly and produce stronger plants. With pre sized seeds very good results can be obtained as uniform spacing can be managed with precision planters. Seed can also be bought in weight units (Kgs or number of seeds in a packet i.e. 10,000 up to 100,000 seeds. Depth of planting needs to be between 7mm  – 20mm. Green shoulders caused by the sun can be prevented by paying attention to the depth of planting in relation to soil types and irrigation used. If it does occur carrot shoulders must be covered with soil using a small hoe. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the plants. This can be done at the 6  – 8 leaf stage.

Seeds need to be spaced about 2cm apart in row. Depending on the number of rows per bed a population of 90  – 160 plants per square meter should be aimed for. On beds 1.8m bed center to bed center this figure comes to 162- 288 plants per running meter. At 1.5m bed center to bed center this figure will be 135  – 240 per running meter. Target populations of between 1000,000 –  1500,000 plants per hectare but can be higher depending on what the market requirement is or to specific orders for carrots i.e. very long for processing, normal size for supermarkets or smaller size for specialized orders. The amount of seed required for 1 hectare of large carrots in usually between 2  –  3 kgs with baby carrots nearly 7kgs. With open-pollinated cultivars seed losses through poor germination can be as high as 50% whilst in hybrid cultivars the germination is usually around 90%, so seeding rates need to be calculated accordingly. Carrots that are hand sown tend to be uneven as in some areas the density is too high, resulting in carrots twisting around one another, being small with lower quality making saleable yields lower than expected. Where lower densities occur, carrots are normally too big. Thinning is possible but very labor intensive - not practical at large scale.

Fertilization Carrots do not require high levels of Nitrogen as high levels stimulate top growth at the expense of root growth, delays harvesting and promotes development of leaf diseases. Most of the nitrogen is applied at planting or as a side dressing very early on if grown on sandy soils. Compound “D” at 600kg - 800kg per hectare or Compound “L” at the same rate both applied pr e planting at bed making.

Top Dressings First top dressing starts 2 weeks after germination, with 50kg of AN or 100kg Potassium Nitrate per hectare. Next top dressings in weeks 3  – 4  – 5 - 6 use Potassium Nitrate at 25kg a hectare, Calcium Nitrate at 40kgs per hectare and Magnesium Sulphate at 10kg a hectare. From weeks 7  – 8  – 9 – 10 apply Magnesium Sulphate Sulphate at 14kg per hectare, Potassium Sulphate at 50kg a hectare and Calcium Sulphate at 25kgs a hectare. About 2 weeks before harvest apply Magnesium Sulphate at 14kg a hectare and Potassium Sulphate at 50kg a hectare. High Potassium applications ensures a better quality, crisper, better colored carrot and enhances the keeping quality.

Carrots | Page 16

 

Irrigation If possible, the use of a solid set sprinkler system can be used to apply up to 4 light cycles per day from planting to emergence, it can then be moved to the next planting. Normal sprinkler irrigation can now take over. From planting the soil should not dry out and the top 30  – 40mm of soil kept moist. This will provide constant moisture for rapid and uniform germination. In hot weather it helps to cool the soil, also prevents fertilizer accumulation due to evaporation in the topsoil layer. From emergence to a root diameter up to 7mm watering is progressively reduced and smaller light irrigations giving way to larger less frequent amounts. This is to induce deeper rooting. Monitor irrigations by reducing amounts until the crop is close to but not wilting. Make sure irrigations always place moisture beyond the growing root to around 45cm soil depth. At this stage stressing is now finished as the crop grows from 7mm diameter to harvest, enough irrigation is required to keep the entire soil profile wet. Soil moisture should be maintained at above 50% of available moisture after stressing. Generally, 25mm of irrigation per week should be adequate but in warmer to hot weather go up to 50mm. Check the evaporation pan figures.

Harvesting Large size carrots require around 110  –  130 days to mature, and slightly longer during the colder months. Carrots are harvested when they obtain the required size, are still tender and succulent before they get woody and fibrous. Normally the market requires a size of around 20mm to 30mm diameter. Harvesting can be done mechanically or by hand. Mechanically, a blade is drawn under the bed below the carrot roots. Once loose they are pulled from the soil by hand. Carrots required without the leaves for the market, the leaves are broken off and left in the field. Those required for bunching the leaves are left on and the carrots put into crates. Once the carrots are in the crates, they are taken in for washing and grading. Carrots lifted by hand with a fork require very careful placement or otherwise too many carrots will be damaged by the spikes of the fork. The soil should be moist but not over wet at pulling to help reduce soil stick. Last irrigation should be timed to around a week before intended date of lifting. Do not lift carrots that have been under water stress or post-harvest keeping quality will be reduced. At harvest handle carefully as wounds can lead to bacterial infections and rot. Do not tip carrots from excess heights onto other carrots on the shed floor or in crates as damage will occur. Washing can be done in a bath, but regular changing of water must be done to avoid soil particles scratching the skin. Carrots can also be put in a concrete mixer type drum with brushes instead of metal bars and slow revolving to wash carrots. If carrots have to be stored keep the temperature at 2°C to 3°C with a R.H. of 90% to 95% in the refrigeration room. Carrots grown in light soils do not store as well as those grown in heavier soils.

40tons per hectare are now common and with Hybrid varieties, y ields Yields fr om 20tons - 40tons can  get up to 60 tons or mor more e per hectare. hectare. These yields are being achieved by successful

farmers who pay attention to detail. Baby or small carrots will generally be half the yield of that for large carrots. Carrots | Page 17

 

C

  a rr o ts | P a g

Carrots Spray Guide e 1 8

Stage

Pre-Plant

Days:

-7

Sowing & Emergence 0-14

Seedling Establishment & Root

Rapid Leaf Growth

14-28

Root Thickening

21-56

Pest Problems Nematodes

Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids

 Actara Soil drench

Cutworms

Karate Zoom / Ampligo

Aphids

 Actara / Proclaim / Polo

Disease Problems Damping off  Apron Star Seed Dress

Cavity Spot

Revus / Ridomil Gold MZ / Folio Gold

Alternaria Ortiva / Score/Amistar Top

Powdery Mildew

Weed Problems Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals Pre-emergence: grasses

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage. Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses Post-emergence: grasses & broadleaf

Fusllade Forte

Codal Gold

 

 

Cauliflower Production & Spray Guide

35-70

Mature 75-120

Cauliflower | Page 19

 

Cauliflowe Cauliflowerr Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

Site Selection Soils can be medium to heavy clay loam with good water holding capacity. Sandy soils tend to require more frequent irrigation cycles and require higher levels of fertilization. PH levels should be between 5.5 and 6, closer to 6 on sandy soils. It is best to take soil samples and have them checked prior to planting. Cauliflower responds very well to compost enriched soils. Levels of 20 to 30 tons of well-prepared compost will benefit the crop and reduce the levels of fertilizer. Manure and chicken litter can also be used but must be well broken down and composted or root burn will occur. Manure 10 to 20 tons per hectare and chicken litter 2 to 5 tons per hectare. Ploughing should be done to a depth of 30 to 35cm deep making sure to break down the old plough pan. Ripping then discing is also a good way to prepare the tilth for planting. Not too cloddy or too fine tilth is necessary. During winter months if possible, plant on north facing slopes to achieve better soil warmth.

Spacing Planting can be done on beds during the rainy season which helps with drainage and on the flat during the winter period. If beds are made, they should be 1.5m center to center with 2 rows on

the top of the bed, 60cm apart and 40cm in row. Planting on the flat rows can be 60cm apart and planting stations 40cm in row. Plant populations should be between 33,000  –  40,000 depending on market requirements. Higher plant populations tend to give smaller curd sizes.

Fertilizers  A balanced basal Compound type fertilizer of either “A”, “B” or “C” should be applied prior to planting. This can be done using a Vicon spreader if growing on the flat or a ridger type applicator if planted on beds. Cupping with fertilizer cups by hand into the planting hole can also be done but the fertilizer must be well mixed in the hole to prevent root burn. On soil analysis results and soil types, rates of fertilizer can be applied ranging from 500kg  – 750kg per hectare. Cauliflowers will require around 400kg a hectare of AN split into 3 applications between weeks 2 and 6 after transplanting. During the rainy season if the crop is planted on lighter soils an extra top dressing might be needed after heavy leaching rains. Cauliflower plantings going into winter should be top dressed with Calcium Nitrate, instead of AN as it is quicker acting in cool soils. Cauliflower is susceptible to Boron deficiency which causes “Hollow Stem” so be vigilant 

Cauliflower | Page 20

 

Seedlings Planting with seedlings is the most practical method. Use a recognized Nursery where strong and healthy seedlings are raised. At transplanting good seedlings give a base for a uniform crop helping with reduced costs at harvest. Plant around 10% more plugs per hectare of your selected plant population, this should ensure good seedling selection. When using seedlings or speedlings as they are also known, at transplanting make sure good plug to soil contact is made so the root system can leave the plug and quickly enter the fertilizer enriched soil. Plant the Speedings as soon as possible after pulling them from the trays to avoid the tiny hair roots drying out. Plant into pre irrigated soils in which the soil has been made up to field capacity.  After transplanting a light settling in irrigation is required to remove air pockets between the plug and the soil. It is recommended that you dip your seedlings in a solution of Actara to give the plants 6 weeks protection from aphids and whitefly. Also apply a foliar spray of Bion to the seedlings to activate the plants own defense mechanism against bacterial and virus attack.

Varieties Selection of a variety depends on where it is to be marketed. Cauliflower is mostly a cool weather crop. Varieties vary in Curd size from 600grams up to 1kilo. Varieties must be selected for summer or winter production. Be careful in summer as cauliflower is susceptible to “Black  Rot”. Varieties need to have a waxy leaf  to  to deter Diamond Back Moth from destroying the crop.

 A good self-wrapping type cauliflower is necessary such as hybrids Twister F1 and Nevada F1 and Spacestar F1 supplied by Seed Co, which saves on labor costs for tying the leaves over the head to prevent discoloration. Cauliflower is also frost tolerant. Contact a Seed Co  Agronomist for advice on which variety you need for different times of the year. The hybrid Twister , with an excellent head wrapping can be grown throughout the year.

Harvesting Cauliflower heads are ready for harvest when the curds start to expose themselves through the natural leaf wrapping, so careful monitoring of head size is important. Exposed heads will turn yellow to cream or brown, making them unsalable. Harvest period is normally 10  – 14 days but growers should aim to do as few cuts as possible, which saves on labor. Depending on variety selection and season, Cauliflowers take 75  – 90 days to mature after transplanting. Once the heads are cut cooling down in field shelters with wet walls or refrigeration is advised. Quick transport to market is a must. Cauliflower heads bruise easily so be careful and pack properly.

Cauliflower | Page 21

 

Irrigation During the dry winter months irrigation is essential. Overhead sprinkler irrigation is the most common, followed by flood and more recently “drip” irrigation. If growing Cauliflower during summer, irrigation must be spot on or “Hollow Stem” will occur due to fluctuations of water in the soil. Approximately 600mm  – 750mm of irrigation should be allowed for to produce a good crop of cauliflower. So, planning water usage from, dams, rivers, and boreholes can be worked out to match hectares to be planted. As the plant increases in size and leaf area, and the start of the “Curd” forming, the amount of water required also increases. Irrigation should be planned on a weekly basis and the soil depletion area checked regularly to plan for the next irrigation cycle. The use of an “Evaporation Pan” should help with this. On medium to heavy clay soils, irrigation should be given when approximately 25% of available water has been used. Water stress can cause the self-wrapping protection to fail exposing the “Curd” to sunlight turning it cream or yellow also making it nonmarketable

Rotations Never plant a Cauliflower crop following another Brassica crop i.e. Cabbage, Broccoli or Rape. Rotate with a legume or root crop.

Cauliflower | Page 22

 

 

Cauliflower Spray Guide Stage

Nursery

Days:

0-30

Transplanting & Establishment 30-35

Rapid Leaf Growth 40-60

Floret Formation

Floret / Head Expansion

Harvest

65-105

80-155

50-70

Pest Problems Soil Pests & Aphid

 Actara Soil drench or Dip

Cutworms

Karate Zeon / Ampligo

Diamond back Moth

 Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim Proclaim

General Caterpillars

 Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim Proclaim

Aphids

 Actara Soil drench

Actara / Ampligo / Polo

Disease Problems Damping off & Black Leg

 Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Black Rot Downy Mildew

Bion / Copper Oxy

Revus / Ridomil / Folio Gold / Bravo

Club Root

Quintozene

Alternaria

Bravo / Ortiva / Score/Amistar Top

Weed Problems Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals Pre-emergence: grasses |C a u w li f e lo r

Post-emergence:grasses

Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

u si a e

 

Dual Magnum

P a e

g

Nutgrass (Yellow) 3

2

 

Dual Magnum

ore

 

 

Cucumber Production & Spray Guide

Cucumber | Page 24

 

Cucumber Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

General Cucumber (Cucumis

sativus)

is a member of the

Cucurbitaceal 

family native to Africa.

Cucumber is an annual deep-rooted crop with plenty of tendrils and has hairy leaves. Optimum growing temperatures are between 20° C to 25° C. At temperatures below 16°C growth slows down and cucumbers are frost sensitive. Most cultivars are monaecious, they have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. They are not parthenocarpic like greenhouse cucumbers which do not require pollination of flowers for fruit production. As monaecious cucumbers are dependent on bees for pollination it is recommended that two to three hives per hectare are placed near the field. Up to 8 bee visits per flower is required to ensure pollination for fruit formation.

Varieties Consult your Seed Co Agronomist for best varieties to grow. For greenhouse production, the hybrid Drea Dreamli mli ner F1, supplied by Seed Co produce vigorous plants that give high yields. For open yield production, Seed Co supplies hybrids Olympian F1 and Stonewall F1 with excellent disease tolerance and adaptability.

Spacing Spacing: - Rows can be 1.2m - 1.8m apart on the flat and 50cm  – 1m apart in row, depending on what plant population is needed and varieties selected. Plastic mulch can be applied where drip irrigation is used. Plastic mulch helps control weeds, improves the use of water and fertilizer. It also reduces incidents of fruit rot where the fruits are not in contact with the soil. If cucumbers are to be grown on beds a spacing of 1.2m  – 1.8m bed center to bed center, then 2 rows can be put on the top of the beds. The rows can be 40cm apart, and in row of 50cm  –  80cm apart. Cucumbers can be direct seeded in the ground or seedlings grown in a nursery for transplanting. If direct seeding is used, then the soil temperature must not be below 13°C or poor uneven germination will take place. With W ith direct seeding the depth of the seed should be 20 mm  – 28mm deep. Speedlings need to be covered when transplanted up to the top of the plug. Plant populations can vary from 14,000 per hectare up to 40,000 per hectare.

Cucumber | Page 25

 

Trellising Cucumbers can be trellised in order to achieve better yields with better quality of the fruits. If trellising is used it should be 1.6m up to 1.8m in height. Strong poles are spaced every 4m apart. A twelve-gauge wire is placed about 12cm off the soil level and an 8-gauge wire is pulled on the top. Twine or netting can be strung between the wires so plants can be trained up. Planning for rotation purposes, if the trellising is used say for a tomato crop then the cucumber crop can follow the tomato crop using the same trellis system saving on double work. Training needs to be done on a weekly basis to ensure all the vines are tied onto the netting or twine. Pinch out the side shoots from the bottom up to around 50cm, after this leave them to grow out.  Advantages of trellised cucumbers cucumbers are: 1) Increased picking efficiency. 2) Better yields. 3) Straight fruits 4) Uniform color, not like fruits grown on the soil which have a white/yellow area where it has been lying on the soil surface. 5) Reduces fruit loss to soil diseases. 6) Better pest management. Disadvantages: 1) Extra cost of trellising materials. 2) Extra labor costs to erect, dismantle and training t raining of the vines. 3) Plants are prone to wind damage therefore wind breaks need to be put in, in wind prone areas by putting up 50% shade cloth of 2m height up wind of the crop. crop.  

Field preparation Ploughing or sub soiling needs to be done to a depth to break up a hard pan if present in the soil. The PH should be between 5.5  –  6.0. Cucumbers are adapted to a wide variety of soil types that have good drainage and adequate water holding capacity. Soil should be harrowed to a reasonable tilth after ploughing or sub soiling so direct seeding can have good soil to seed contact.

Cucumber | Page 26

 

Fertilization Rates can be based on soil sample analysis results. Basal: - Compound “D” at 600kgs – 750kgs per hectare can be used. Top dressing: - Apply first application two weeks after germination or transplanting of 50kg per hectare AN. Then every two weeks until first fruit set, then add 35kgs per hectare Muriate of Potash and every two weeks from then on both the AN and Muriate of Potash. Potassium helps to produce a deep green color to the fruit as well as firm flesh and helps to produce good yields. Manure or Compost applications improve quality and yields. Up to 20tons per hectare is recommended, as this helps to improve soil texture and improves root growth.

Irrig Irri gation Cucumbers need a constant water supply to enable a good yield of quality fruits. Generally, soils must not dry out at planting or transplanting. Soil types will determine the frequency and amount. From flowering to fruit development depending on the weather, amounts should be supplied by checking on evaporation pan figures. Roughly 50 mm irrigation is required per week. Normally drip irrigation is recommended for cucumbers.

Maturity Generally, first harvest from planting takes 45  –  55 days. Depending on disease and pest control cucumbers can normally carry on producing for 14 weeks. At harvest the fruit must have reached full diameter and while the seeds inside are still soft and small. Normally the average length is between 15cm  –  20cm and a diameter 4cm  –  7cm. From pollination to harvest is normally 15  –  18 days. Cucumber plants set fruits and develop over a long period of time, therefore marketable fruits extend over a period.

Harvesting Cucumbers are handpicked. When picking, the fruits should be clipped or snapped near the stem and not pulled off or damage to the vine will occur. Once picked place gently in the picking crate and keep cool and covered with a damp cloth. Once transported to the pack shed, keep the fruits cooled down to 10°C for best shelf life. Remove any oversize fruits left on the vine by mistake from the previous harvest as they will drain the plant of all nutrients and can cause yield loss. Damaged or decaying fruit should also be removed. If cucumbers have to be stored the average shelf life is about 10  – 14 days at a temperature of between 10° C  – 13° C, and 90% to 95% RH.

Cucumber | Page 27

 

C

u c

  u m b

Cucumber Spray Guide e r | P a g e

Stage 2

Pre-Plant

8

Days:

-7

Sowing & Emergence 0-10

Early Flowers

Seedling & Vegetation

10-28

28-35

Pest Problems Nermaiodes

Solvigo

Soil Pests

 Actara Soil Drench

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Leafminer

Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo

Aphids &Whitefly

 Actara / Ampligo / Polo

Pumkin Fly

Lebaycid

Disease Problems Damping off

 Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex

 Amistar Top/Score

Powdery Mildew

Reus/Ridomil/Folio Gold

Anthracnose

 Amistar Top/Bravo

Virus Complex  Actara Soil drench

Weed Problems

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.

Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post

Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

emergence annuals Post-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum

 

 

Field Tomato Production & Spray Guide

Early Fruits

35-42

Fruiting & Picking

45-60

Field Tomato | Page 29

 

Field Tomato Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

General Field Tomatoes are a very important crop in the country sold mainly as fresh tomatoes, used in salads or used as an ingredient in soups, stews, sauces and various other dishes. Some production is grown and sold for processing or pulping under contract. There are several varieties available for specific markets or uses so contact a Seedco Agronomist for the best cultivar for the purpose intended for example, Fresh Market Tomato or “Jam” or Processing t ype. Seed Co has the country's best hybrid processing tomato varieties including Pietrarossa F1 and HTX 14 and fresh market tomatoes including Daisy F1, Chibli F1 and  Nash F1. Tomatoes are a warm  

season mainly summer crop but can be grown in certain low veld areas in winter that are frost free. A few degrees above freezing will result in damage to both plant and fruits. Optimum temperature range is between 20° C to 28° C. Temperatures below 12° C or above 35° C can result in flower shed and big losses of yield. Continuous moist or rainy weather favors the rapid increase in leaf diseases and makes control difficult. For best results the crop should be finishing before the onset of winter though however at this time and mid-winter prices are highest as there is always a shortage. Determinate type varieties are normally shorter plants than indeterminate varieties which can result in big savings on trellising and spraying costs. They also normally produce a concentrated

yield over a shorter space of time, however, could be a disadvantage if it comes in during a price drop so plan carefully. The final size of the plants is dependent on climatic and cultural conditions as well as the specific cultivar selected. Processing cultivars possess high solid content required for such use. Their keeping quality is normally better than normal field tomato types.

Soils Tomatoes like growing in deep, fertile, humus rich, good draining soils. Soil types can vary from sandy loam to clay loam with a clay content of between 15% to 35%. Sandy soils can also be used provided soil moisture content can be maintained at the desired level. The roots can penetrate to a depth of over 2 meters, but the greatest root concentration is in the top 600mm of soil. Deep ploughing or sub soiling must be done to ensure any old plough pan is broken up, so roots are free to go down deep. A PH of 5.0  – 5.8 is ideal. Tomatoes must also be grown in a rotation of one crop every three or four years to reduce nematodes and disease problems and should not follow potatoes, peppers or tobacco which belong to the same family. Tomatoes will do very well after a green manure crop which has been ploughed in and well-rotted down.

Field Tomato | Page 30  

Fertilizer Depending on soil analysis results the following is a general guide. Basal: 750kg per hectare up to 1,000kg per hectare of Compound “C” or “B”  Top dressings -: One week after transplanting 25kg/hect Mono Ammonium Phosphate (M.A.P). ( M.A.P). Second week after transplanting 50kg/hect AN Third week after transplanting 50kg/hect AN Fourth week onwards 50kg/hect AN plus 50kg/hect Sulphate of Potash (S.O.P. Stop all fertilization two weeks prior to final harvest. Micronutrients are also necessary to obtain top yields. These are Calcium (Ca, Magnesium (Mg, Sulphur (S, Boron (B, Iron (Fe, Copper (Cu, Zinc (Zn, Manganese (Mn and Molybdenum (Mo. These can be obtained in micronutrient mixes like Nutrifoil, Liberal, BMX, Omniboost etc. These should be applied every two weeks or as per the instructions on the label. Calcium is very important to the crop as a shortage of Calcium will result in Blossom End Rot. This can be sprayed on using Calcium Nitrate from first flower on a weekly basis at a rate of 10g/ 1lt of water using 250l to 300l water per hectare.

Irrigation Best results have been achieved using drip irrigation as water can be applied as often as

required when using tensiometers in the soil which measures the soil moisture content. Also, no foliage gets wet thus minimizing leaf diseases. Overhead sprinkler irrigation can be used where there is no rainfall in the dryer months up to the fruiting stage. Sprinkler irrigation can dramatically increase the incidents of various diseases in medium rainfall or misty areas. Any method of irrigation which does not wet the foliage is the preferred method. Furrow irrigation or flood irrigation is also good but uses high volumes of water. Amounts of irrigation needed depends on soil type and growing conditions like temperature and humidity. Normally around 400mm to 600mm is required. Lateral roots can spread up to one meter or more, so soil moisture needs to increase with plant growth. During the first month when the plants are relatively small, and the roots may not have spread this far so keep the water applied to the planting area. After one month increase irrigation as the plant and its root system start to develop.

Planting Propagated speedlings are the preferred method of establishing the crop. Good, strong, healthy well rooted seedlings will give the best results so get speedlings done professionally in a nursery. Plant speedlings into moist soil and firm the soil around the plug to achieve good soil to plug contact so roots can develop quickly into the fertilizer enriched soil. Irrigate as soon as possible after transplanting to settle in the seedling. Field Tomato | Page 31

 

Spacing Rows generally 1.2m- 1.8m apart I n row spacing can vary between 40cm – 50cm apart Population can be from 16,000 – 22,000 plants per hectare.

Trellising For table tomatoes plants are invariably trellised. This is because the incidents of various diseases, pests and sun burn is generally lower than crops that are not trellised. Trellised crops have shown a significant advantage in higher marketable yield, better quality and makes harvesting easier. The newer processing cultivars are now generally shorter vined, have a more concentrated harvest and have fruits with thicker and tougher skins, which don ’t damage easily, are therefore are seldom trellised. Poles of between 50mm  – 70mm in diameter are dug into a depth of +/- 600mm and spaced every 3m apart leaving 1.4m  – 1.8m above ground. The end poles should be stronger and well anchored to prevent them being pulled over by the weight of the crop. Wires are put in early to avoid damage to the small plants while they are getting established. Two wires of between 14gg  –  16gg are pulled and attached to either side of the poles so the crop is between the wires. Wires can be placed up the poles at intervals of 300mm  –  400mm. The number of pairs of wires will depend on the growth, height and vigor of the

cultivar being grown. All plant growth is trained to grow between the two wires. Some growers do a single stake method where a stake is driven in next to the plant and as it grows up the plant tied at intervals to the stake.

Pruning This is not recommended for outdoor growing of tomatoes. It is labor intensive and often increases the incidents of disease like Botrytis, Pseudomonas and Phytophtora which enter the scar wounds. The incidences of virus diseases and other disorders is also possible

Harvesting  Avoid picking green fruits as these will ripen with poor quality and affect the marketing of the crop. Fruits should be harvested when a pink color first shows at the blossom end. At this stage the tomato is mature and already red inside. Indicators are as follows: f ollows: -

a)

Pick when cream colored streaks are noticed at the blossom end. At this stage fruits will last about a week after picking.

b)

If the color is dark pink going red at the blossom end it will have a shelf life of about 4 days.

c) d)

When the tomato is pink it is 1 or 2 days to full ripe. Full ripe nice red color but still firm, need to sell immediately.

Field Tomato | Page 32

 

Reap into boxes that hold +/- 5.5kgs. Ripe tomatoes can be stored for about 7 days at 5° C  – 10 °C with a RH of 80% - 85%. Tomatoes are sensitive to chilling. Temperature management is crucial to maintaining quality. Fruits must be graded to uniform size and maturity in the packing box. Mixing sizes and maturity can result in rejection or price drop at the marketplace. Fruits need to be free from any blemishes e.g. insect, disease or mechanical damage. Remove all diseased and damaged fruits from the plant as soon as they are seen. Remove them totally from the field, do not discard in the field on the ground near the plants. To help with picking use shorter rows or provide pathways to get across long fields to the waiting truck or trailer. trai ler.

Field Tomato | Page 33

 

F ie

  ld

Field Tomato Spray Guide T o m a to | P

Stage

Nursery

3

Days:

0-35

g

a e 4

Vegetative

Transplanting

28-36

First Flowers

30-60

First Fruits

60-65

Pest Problems Nematodes

Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids

 Actara Soil Drench / Solvigo

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Leafminer

Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo / Curacron

Fruitworm & Caterpillars

 Ampligo / Matish / Karate Karate Zeon / Proclaim

Aphids & Whitefly  Actara Soil Drench

 Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Chess

Disease Problems Damping off

 Apron Star Seed Dress Dress

Bacterial Complex

Bion / Copper Oxychloride

Early Blight

Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight

Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold

Leaf spots; Powdery  Amistar Top

Mildew Virus Complex

Weed Problems

 Actara Soil Drench / Dip Dip

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.

Before planting - post emergence perennials

Touchdown

Before planting - post emergence annuals

Pre-emergence: grasses

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses Post-emergence: grasses & broadleaf Post-emergence: grasses & broadleaf

 

Fusllade Forte

Codal Gold

Codal Gold

65-70

Fruiting 70-125

 

Green Bean Production & Spray Guide

Green Bean | Page 35

 

Green Bean Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution 

General Description French Beans which may otherwise be known as ne or dwarf beans are grown year round in frost free areas. Yields are maximized when temperatures lie between 15 - 28C and some pollination problems may occur if temperatures fall to 4C or go above 35C.

Soils Deep, well drained soils are preferred with an ideal pH of 5,5 to 6,5 (CaC12. All soils must be analyzed before planting, so that corrective measures may be taken before a problem becomes noticeable.

Fertilization  As a general guide, apply 800 – 1000kg/ha Compound A, B, C on lighter soils and 400  – 500kgs/ ha on heavier soils. The amount of top dressing used, and frequency of application varies depending on soil type. On sandy soils up to 300kgs/ha. AN can be applied split on a weekly basis starting from week 3 or 4 and should continue well into flowering and pickling. Less AN would be required on heavier soils and the time between applications may be longer. Additional potash may be required and 75  – 100kgs per ha. MOP or SOP in total should be applied split between flower bud stage and early production. French beans are sensitive to several micronutrient deficiencies particularly on anthill areas in the lands. Application of foliar sprays containing zinc and iron as well as other elements will be of some benefit to the crop.

Varieties Rust resistant varieties like the fine beans Moonstone, Lomami, and Salima, supplied by Seed Co are the order of the day now. Seed may either be mechanically, or hand sown to achieve a population of 300,000plants per hectare. The approximate weight of seed will vary according to variety but is normally in region r egion of 60-65kgs/ha. Green Gree n beans yield 6 tons to 12 tons per hectare, but yields can be even high if properly managed.

Sow seed to a depth of 25mm into moist pre-irrigated soil. Always plant upwind when a series of planting are to be in the same field so that the older plantings are downwind of emerging crop. This will reduce pest and disease pressure especially thrips, Heliothis and rust. Green Bean | Page 36

 

Irrigation It is preferable to pre-irrigate to field capacity prior to planting. As the seedlings are emerging a light irrigation will help them to push through. Once all plants are through the ground approximately two weeks after planting, it is advisable to withhold irrigation to enable the plants to root well and reduce the chances of damping off. After this initial dry period do not allow soil to dry out as this will cause stress to the plants and stimulate premature flowering. Over watering will encourage disease development. There are no hard and fast rules about timing and quantity of irrigation, which are dependent on soil type, prevailing climatic conditions and crop maturity. As a rule of thumb 6000m3 is required to see one hectare through to completion during the hottest time of the year.  Any water stress (too much or too little) during flowering and pod pod set will cause flower abortion to occur as well as bent cured beans.

Pests and Diseases Before using any chemicals please check that it is on the Freshtex Declared Pesticide List and read the label for the manufacturer’s instructions.

Green Bean | Page 37

G

 

e

re

 

n B

Green Bean Spray Guide e a n | P a

Stage g e 3 8

Pre-Plant

Days:

Planting to Emergence

-7

0-10

First Flowers

Vegetative

10-40

30-40

Pod Development

& First Picking 40-60

Pest Problems Bean Stem Maggot

 Apron Star Seed Dress

Beetles

Karate Zeon

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Leafminer

Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo

Podworm & Caterpill Caterpillars ars

 Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim Proclaim

 Aphids & Whitefly Whitefly

 Actara / Ampligo / Polo

Disease Problems Seed/Soil Disease

 Ap on rStar Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex

 Amistar Top / Score

 Anthracnose

Bravo / Amistar Top

Rust

Weed Problems Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence ann uals Pre-eme rgence: grasses

 Amistar Top/Bra vo / Co pper Ox y

Below are off-lab suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Dual Magnum

Post-emer gence: grasses Pre-emer gence: grasses +

Broadleaf Post-emergence: Nutgrass

Fusilade Forte Bateleur Gold

Servian

 

 

Lettuce Production & Spray Guide

Peak Picking

+65

Lettuce | Page 39

 

Lettuce Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

Soils Lettuce is tolerant of soil type but do well on light sand to sandy loams. As Lettuce has a very shallow root system it can be grown on relatively shallow soils, provided a good irrigation system is in place so favorable soil moisture can be maintained. Due to the shallow root system of Lettuce, most of the roots only go to a depth of 300mm. Therefore, nutrient and water requirements need to be concentrated in this small volume of soil. If planting in soils that stain i.e. red soils, a mulch between the soil and the bottom leaves will keep the soil stain from spoiling the heads and making them difficult to sell. Washing off soil stain causes bacterial rot so is not recommended. Soil PH should be between 5.5 - 6.

General  As lettuce is normally a cool weather crop demand for it in the cooler months is quite low. Consumer ’s ’s main demand for lettuce is during the hot summer months when salads are very desirable. Lettuce heads produced in summer receive a higher price than those grown in the cooler months. Summer production of Lettuce can be done; however, some precautions need to be addressed to safeguard the viability of the crop. Varieties need to be chosen carefully for the cool winter production and hot humid summer production. Summer varieties need to have a

good tolerance to bolting and good disease resistance. Most varieties perform equally well in the cooler months so ask to advise of a Seed Co Agronomist who will give you the best variety for your planting program. The most favorable temperature for production is a daily mean of between 15° C and 18° C. Lettuce, however, will perform in a range of 17° C  – 27 °C during the day and 2° C to 12° C night temperatures, with careful variety selection.

Cultural Practices For best results soils need to be prepared in advance and beds made up for summer production. Raised beds of at least 20cm  – 30cm high need to be made to help drainage with excess rainfall. Planting on the flat in winter is acceptable. Drip irrigation is the preferred method to irrigate lettuce as there is no soil splash and soiling of the heads. If overhead irrigation is to be used a smaller nozzle size should be fitted to the sprinkler head to avoid big droplets hitting the soil surface and splashing the heads with soil particles. As soil moisture is an important factor in lettuce production the level of available water in the root zone should not get below 50% holding capacity before the next cycle. Careful planning of irrigation is necessary regarding soil types and the time of year. Amounts of water to be applied vary from 18mm on sandy soils to 50mm on heavy soils per cycle. Lettuce needs lighter and more frequent irrigations more so than many other crops. Frequent irrigations however, especially in summer production favor conditions for development of several diseases. Lettuce | Page 40

 

Planting The use of quality speedlings is highly recommended to achieve a good uniform crop. For planning purposes seedlings normally take about 5 weeks in the nursery in the winter months to  just under 4 weeks in the warmer months. Seedlings must be well hardened before planting during the summer as they will be subjected to high temperatures in the field after transplanting. Mulching of summer production is recommended. After transplanting the seedling, a mulch using wheat straw, grass or saw dust is advisable. This will assist in lowering the soil temperature, cooling the crop, conserving moisture and preventing soil splash.

Spacing During summer because of heavy rainfall which cannot be controlled planting on raised beds is recommended. These beds can be made with 1.5m  –  1.8m bed center to bed center. Three rows marked out on the top of the bed at 30cm apart with seedlings placed 25cm in row, giving round 80,000 plants per hectare. For larger size heads distance in row can be increased to 30cm giving a lower plant population in order to achieve a larger head size. On the flat, rows can be between 35cm  – 45cm apart and in row spacing between 25cm  – 35cm. This gives a plant population of about 60,000 to 100,000 plants per hectare. Head size for specific large head orders use the wider spacing.

Fertilization

Get a soil analysis done before planting. A general recommendation is to use a basal dressing of Compound “B” at a rate of 500  –  600kg per hectare applied pre-planting. If the fertilizer is cupped in by hand to a planting hole for a seedling, make sure the fertilizer is well mixed in the hole with the soil to prevent root burn of the seedling.

Harvesting This takes place about 8  – 10 weeks after transplanting. A visual inspection is done to check if the heads have reached the desired firmness and size. Loose leaf or frilly lettuce types are harvested when the leaves have grown to a reasonable size. Using a long blade knife cut the stalk just above the level of the soil and retain most of the wrapper leaves. Harvest when the plants have dried out and in the cool of the early morning before the day temperature gets too hot and the plants begin to wilt. Do not harvest the heads just after rain or irrigation as this makes the leaves crisp and brittle because they will have absorbed a lot of water and the leaves will break easily. After cutting, damaged, diseased and discolored leaves can be removed, and the cut end tidied up before placing in the crate. Do not over pack the crates and if possible, not to stack more than 2 high. Move heads quickly once harvested into a field shelter with wet walls to prevent dehydration before transport to the packing area. Once at the pack shed storage under refrigeration with a temperature of 0°C and a R.H. of 95% lettuce heads can be stored for up to 3 weeks if there is a glut in the market. However quicker Lettuce | Page 41

 

movement to market is preferable. If there is no refrigeration the crop will have to be moved to market the same day it is cut. Lettuce heads can weigh from 500g to over 1.2kg depending on the time of the year. Yields can be from fr om 25  – 30 tons p er hectare. If properly grown lettuce heads should be firm,  

fresh, clean and crisp and not have a bitter taste.

Transport During transport to market if the heads are being delivered in an open vehicle it is very important to cover the lettuce heads with a damp cloth type cover to prevent wind burn and dehydration. If the delivery vehicle has an insulated covered back be sure that the temperature inside does not go too high as this can cause dehydration and wilting.

Lettuce | Page 42

 

 

 

Lettuce Spray Guide Stage

Nursery

Days:

0-42

Vegetative

Transplanting

40-70

25-42

Pest Problems Nematodes

Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids

 Actara Soil drench / Solvigo

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Leafminers

Dynamec / Trigard

Snails & Slugs

Mesurol

Thrips

snail pellets

 Actara / Ampligo

Disease Problems Damping off

 Apron Star Seed Dress Dress

Downy mildew

Revus / Ridomil Gold MZ

Sclerotinia Drop

Ortiva/ Amistar Top

Viru s complex

Weed Problems L

Before planting - post e tt

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage. Touchdown

 

emer ence erenn erennials ials u c e

Before planting - post emergence annuals Post-emergence: grasses | P a g e 4 3

 

 Actara Soil D rench / Dip

Gramoxone

u

ti/ Touchdown Dual Magnum

 

Okra Production & Spray Guide

Okra | Page 44

 

Okra Production Guide

General Okra is a warm season mainly summer crop. Optimum temperature range is between 20° C to 28° C. Temperatures below 12° C or above 35° C can result in flower shed and big losses of yield. Continuous moist or rainy weather favors the rapid increase in leaf diseases and makes control difficult. Okra is prone to nematodes, hence, should not follow crops prone to nematode attack including tomatoes and butternuts. Preferably, okra can follow grassy crops like baby- or sweet corn that do not share common pest and diseases.

Soils Okra grows well in deep, fertile, well-draining soils. Soil types can vary from sandy loam to clay loam with a clay content of between 15% to 35%. Okra does not do well in very light sandy soils or too heavy clays that with poor drainage and prone to hardpan formation. Deep ploughing or sub soiling must be done to ensure any old plough pan is broken up, so roots are free to go down deep. A PH of 5.8  – 6.5 is ideal. Okra will do very well after a green manure crop which has been ploughed in and well-rotted down or application of 25 000kg to 30 000kg of manure per hectare.

Okra | Page 45

 

Fertilizer Depending on soil analysis results, the following is a general guide.  Add basal dressing of 750kg to 900kg per hectare of Compound “D”. Top dress with 200 kg of  AN split into 4 applications at weeks 2, 4, 6 and 8. Okra responds very well to composite manure applied at a rate of 40 000 kg per ha.

Irrigation  Any method of irrigation is suitable for okra production, producti on, though irrigation which does not wet the foliage is the preferred method to reduce disease pressure. Furrow irrigation or flood irrigation is also good but uses high volumes of water. Sprinkler irrigation can dramatically increase the incidents of various diseases in medium rainfall or misty areas. Amount of irrigation needed depend on soil type and growing conditions like temperature and humidity. Normally around 500mm to 700mm is required. Lateral roots can spread up to one meter or more, so soil moisture needs to increase with plant growth. Increase irrigation as the plant and its root system start developing.

Planting Direct sowing at a depth of 0.5cm to 1cm or seedlings can be used for establishing the crop. Germination occurs within 7 to 15 days depending on soil temperatures. Good, strong, healthy well rooted seedlings will give the best results. Plant seedlings into moist soil and firm the soil around the plug to achieve good soil to plug contact so that roots can develop quickly into the fertilizer enriched soil. Irrigate as soon as possible after transplanting to settle in the seedling.

Okra | Page 46

 

Spacing Space between rows should be generally 70cm-80cm. In-row spacing should be 40cm  – 50cm depending on variety. Plant population will be 25,000  – 35,000 plants per hectare.

Harvesting Harvest pods when they are still tender once they reach the preferred market size, which is ideally 5 to 10 cm long before they become fibrous. Harvesting normally starts from 60 to 120 days after transplanting depending on the variety. Fresh tender and undamaged pods can be picked using a knife 3 to 4 times a week depending on market size requirements. If you are targeting the fancy types, harvesting can be done on daily basis. Any delayed picking will cause a direct loss of yield and quality. Harvested pods should be sent to the fresh market under shade or refrigerated as soon as possible to t o avoid wilting and market should be readily available to avoid loss of produce. Yields can range from fr om 5 to 15 tons p er hectare.

Okra | Page 47

 

 

Okra Spray Guide

O k ra

Stage

Nursery

a

Days:

0-35

4

Pest Problems

| P g e 8

Nematodes

Vegetative

Transplanting

28-36

30-60

First Flowers

First Fruits

60-65

Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids

 Actara Soil Drench / Solvigo

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Leafminer

Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo / Curacron

Fruitworm & Caterpillars

 Ampligo / Matish / Karate Zeon / Proclaim

Aphids & Whitefly

 Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Chess Polo/Chess

 Actara Soil Drench

Disease Problems Damping off  Apron Star Seed Dress Dress

Bacterial Complex

Bion / Copper Oxychloride

Southern Blight

Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top

Bossom Blight

Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold

Leaf spots; Powdery  Amistar Top

Mildew Virus Complex  Actara Soil Drench Drench / Dip

 

 

Onion Production & Spray Guide

65-70

Fruiting 70-125

Onion | Page 49

 

Onion Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

General Onion requires cool conditions for good vegetative growth with a temperature range of between 12° C and 24 °C. Winter months provide these conditions as the long cool  cool  winter months gives better vegetative growth before bulbing, resulting in better and higher   yields. As the summer months approach and high daily temperatures of 25° C to 27° C accelerates the bulbing process. If a cold snap occurs with temperatures of around 13°C while bulbing this can trigger bolting. The bulbs need a month of dry weather towards the end of its growing period for maturity. Onions are sensitive to length of daylight. Certain cultivars like “Texas Grano” an open pollinated variety have short daylight requirements that is why they are termed short day cultivars. Cultivars that can form bulbs in less than a 12-hour  12-hour  day  day length must be grown. Late or indeterminate day cultivars require longer day length, therefore should not be planted above the 28 Degree latitude, as the closer to the equator the shorter the day length. Choice of cultivar is determined by whether long term storage is required or not. Some Seed Co hybrids such as Elad, Dina, Ada and Saturn  will store for up to 5  – 6 months whereas open pollinated varieties do not have good storage properties. As onions remain in the ground for a long time weed control is very important because the soil should not be worked deeper than 50mm to 75mm then, only during the early growth. Leaf disease control is also very important.

Variety sowing windows NB: Sowing windows differ with varietal maturity and day-length requirements. E.g. growers in Zimbabwe will be advised to sow some Seed Co varieties from the beginning of the year

as follows: Regent F1 (weeks 4-11 and 16-22), Elad F1  (weeks 5-22),  Ad  Ada a F1  (weeks 5-17) Satur turn n F1 (weeks 9-18). Consult Seed Co Agronomists.  and Sa

Site & Soil Selection Onions have a relatively shallow root system to a depth of about 200mm to 300mm. Onions can be grown on a wide range of soils. Heavy clay soils however are difficult to work with and can cause serious problems at harvest. Soils prone to capping i.e. T factor should be avoided. Onions respond to well composted kraal manure at a rate of up to 20 tons per hectare which has been incorporated into the soil. Soil PH of 5.5  –  6.5 is optimum as at a low PH; certain diseases like white rot become more prevalent. Soil analysis is important and needs to be done for fertilizer application and to understand the cation balance e.g. Ca: Mg: K:Na ratio should be 65%:23%:10%:2%. Soils should be deep ripped to achieve good drainage, with a good fine to medium seedbed tilth with no large clods. Onion | Page 50

 

Fertilization Soil analysis will help to decide how much fertilizer to apply. Onions generally do well with 1,000kg to 1,300kg of compound “C” (6:17:15). Calcium nitrate can be used as a top dressing at the rate of 300kg per hectare starting at 3 weeks after transplanting or emergence. Another top dressing at 5 weeks, 7 weeks and 9 weeks up until seventh or eighth leaf stage. Micronutrient sprays of Nutrifoil every 2 weeks at the rate on the label should be done until the bulb starts to form. Avoid late or excessive Nitrogen top dressings as this will cause “Bull necks”, it will also cause the plant to go back to vegetative mode if Nitrogen levels are high at bulb formation.

Production Methods Onions can be produced in the following way: a) Production of seedlings in an open field seedbed for transplanting. b) Doing seedlings in trays with up to 3 or 4 seeds per plug. c) Seeding direct in the field with a precision planter. d) Onion sets for transplanting.

Field Seedbeds  A common method used. Sowing is done from early February to mid-April for transplanting from May to June. Harvesting is then normally done from September to mid-October. Seed is sown in rows 150mm – 200mm apart and seed sown to a depth of 10mm to 12mm. About 7 grams to 10 grams seed is used per square meter. Allow 3kg to 5kg of seed to produce 600,000 seedlings to

be planted per hectare. Transplant seedlings when pencil thick about 6  – 8 weeks after sowing.

Seed Trays Sowing time is similar to open seedbeds. Seedlings normally only get to 3.0mm to 3.5mm in diameter. Once the plug is pulled, separate the seedlings and plant individual plants. Some growers plant the plug without separating the seedlings but at slightly wider spacing. This is not normally suggested as these clusters do not develop sufficiently and some bulbs are malformed with flattened sides.

Transplanting seedlings from field seedbeds or plugs. Seedlings are planted in shallow furrows which have been made on top of the bed. The number of rows will depend on variety and the growers decided final population. Roughly 5 to 6 rows on a 1,2metre bed top is the normal. Seedlings are placed at a slant on the sides of the furrow and the roots are covered with soils to a depth of 1cm to 2.5cm. After transplanting, the seedlings will lie flat but will recover in a few days after the settling in irrigations and will start growing upright. Onion | Page 51

 

Direct Seeding Direct seeded crops are normally 6 weeks earlier to maturity and avoids the labor-intensive practice of transplanting. A big disadvantage is that the entire field must be kept weed free, seedlings are still very small, weak and vulnerable. Weed control pre and post emergence is very important. Irrigation is a problem as it needs to apply small amounts often and evenly over the entire crop until germination is complete. Seed requirement is between 6kg to 8kg per hectare.

Sets Sets are more robust after they have been transplanted and therefore easier to manage. Seed is sown in an open field nursery on beds that are 1.2metre to 1.6metre on top with 6 or 8 rows per bed 20cm apart this figuration depends on if a planter is being used or being done by hand. Seeding is normally done in June in the hotter parts of the country and July  –  August in the cooler areas as a rule of thumb one hectare of seedbeds should supply enough seedlings for 10 hectares of crop. It is very important that not too much Nitrogen is given to the growing seedlings. Approximately 30kg  –  50kgs of Nitrogen needs to be applied per hectare. After germination the bulbs will start to form within 4  –  6 weeks. Bulbs will continue to grow until November when their size gets to 20mm  – 25mm in diameter, then will begin to lodge. Lifting will be done in late November to Mid-December. After the sets have been lifted allow the necks to start drying off for 2  – 3 days then the sets can now be dried in bulk bins, on wire racks or cages. Make sure that the necks of the sets are completely dry before storage. It is important that the storage facilities are adequate to hold all the sets as they need to be kept

for between 2  – 3 months before planting out. Before storage, sets can be graded into roughly 3 sizes, 15mm  – 20mm  – 25mm so immature and over size bulbs can then be discarded so they do not take up storage space. If sets are stored in bulk do not go higher than 1metre  –  1.5 meter in the drying room. There are two methods of storage, either cold or warm. Cold storage needs temperature ranges from 1° C to 4° C with a R.H of 65% - 75%. Warm storage has a temperature of 26 °C  – 27° C with a R.H. of 60% - 75%. Sets can be stacked on a slatted or perforated floor so that an air flow can then pass through. There are problems with cold and warm storage. High temperatures can result in slow emergence after planting out the sets due to the lack of the breakdown of the inhibitor (diallyl-disulfide) which is formed in the sets during the latter stages of growth.  After planting out frequent light irrigation of 1mm to 2mm can be applied twice a day to help cool the soil down. Warm storage is best for sets larger than 25mm, as large sets are prone to bolting with cold storage conditions. Cold storage can lead to unwanted flowering if sets are kept for the whole period of storage. The inhibitor is broken down by cold storage. Before storage contact your Seed Co Agronomist to recommend a fungicide to prevent disease and decay during storage and how best to apply it. Remember to dry the bulbs again if dipped in a chemical solution. Onion | Page 52

 

Make sure at transplanting time that the sets must be completely covered with soil as any part left exposed will probably get sun scorched resulting in possible pathogen attack. After transplanting out the sets the smaller size sets just start enlarging in size and begin to become normal onions. Large sets over 35mm in diameter often split. The idea of using sets is to get a crop to mature earlier than the normal plantings thereby catching higher prices on the market. However, this method does result in a rather uneven crop. The percentage of bolters, thick neck bulbs and split bulbs is often quite high. Spacing of the sets in the field is the same as for planted out seedlings or direct seeded crops. Planting is done by hand or a specially designed planting machine. Seed count is normally 270,000 seeds per kilo.

Spacing Plant density can be from 600,000 to 800,000 plants per hectare. This gives yields of 80  000kg 000 kg t o 120 000 000kg kg per p er hect are of fresh market bulbs.

Plant on beds of 1.2m  – 1.6m beds center to center. Five to eight rows per bed 20cm apart and seedlings or seeds 5cm to 10cm apart. Planting depth is critical as this has a noticeable effect on the bulb shape. The onion stem plate forms at the point that the seed germinates. The entire bulb forms above this point thus the bulb may form below or above the soil surface depending on the placement of the seed.

Irrigation  After sowing the seed direct in the field or in the field nursery seedbed the soil surface should

not be allowed to dry out. This entails short irrigation cycles two to three times a day depending on weather conditions. After transplanting seedlings, they should be watered daily until the plants stand up. Onion roots can penetrate up to 800mm but most roots feed in the top 200mm  – 300mm of soil. Care of irrigation management in the first 9  – 10 weeks is important, before

bulb formation and the next important period is just before harvest. No stress should be allowed during bulb formation; however, no irrigation should be applied for the final 3 weeks before maturity to allow the bulbs to cure properly. A good onion crop will require 600mm  – 700mm of irrigation.

Harvesting Some growers harvest a small portion of the crop once the bulbs are a good size and sold as green onions tied in bunches. Mostly growers start harvesting when the tops of over 50% of the crop have collapsed and fallen over, even though the leaves still show a green color. A good way to lift is to loosen the soil with a blade pulled below the root zone. Leave the onions for 3  –  4 days to dry then pull them out by hand. Even if the crop is not going to be stored, the bulbs should be dry before marketing. Pull up to about 10 rows at a time and place in a single windrow in the field with the leaves being put over the bulbs to stop sun burn. Onion | Page 53

 

These are left for a further 2  – 3 days to dry and then the roots and leaves are cut off. If rain should fall before the onions have been removed from the field the windrows should be turned over and opened to dry before re doing the windrow. Once off the field and in the shed onions can be graded to size before pocketing for marketing. If onions are to be stored the keeping quality is related to the number of cells per volume of the bulb, the amount of growth inhibitor (diallyl disulphide) is formed in the leaves then translocate to the bulb at maturity. Make sure the onions have lodged properly for this process to take place to enhance the keeping quality. Effective drying is when the temperature is around 27° C and low humidity of 75% R.H. with good ventilation. This temperature also reduces sprouting in the stored onion. Where long term storage is required it is important that high relative humidity of 75% - 80% R.H. are avoided as this is the enemy of stored onions. High R.H. promotes root growth and the development of storage pathogens that could result in big losses. Low relative humidity of less than 65% R.H. leads to excessive moisture loss resulting in shriveled bulbs and big losses in weight. For long term storage good management of the shed is vital. Before filling the shed it should have been cleaned thoroughly to prevent fungal and bacterial infections. All damaged onions should be removed at grading before coming into the building. Good ventilation, temperature control and humidity control of all the bins should be checked regularly, and any onions with Basal, Neck and Soft Rots which are common storage problems must be removed. Keep the floor clean of debris and sweepings.  A well cured onion will store and remain in a good state state for a long time.

Onion | Page 54

 

 

Onion Spray Guide Stage

Nursery

Transplanting &

Vegetative

First blubs

Blub expansion

Mature

seeding establishment

Days:

0-49

42-56

50- 90

90 - 110

Pest Problems Nematodes

Solvigo

Soil Pests  Actara Soil drench

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Thrips

 Actara / Ampligo

Disease Problems Damping off

 Apron Star Seed Dress

Downy mildew & white tip

Ortiva/Ridomil/Foilo Gold/Revus

Purple blotch (alternaria)

 Amistar Top / Bravo

Neck Rot

Weed Problems

Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post O n io n

Below are off-labe off-labe suggestions; grower must do own own tests tests for for crop damage. Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Dual Magnum

Post- transplanting ; pre-emergence: grasses Fusilade Forte + broadleaf | P a g e 5 5

 

emergence annuals Pre-emergence: Pre-emergenc e: grasses

 Amistar Top / Ortiva

Pre-emergence: grasses + Pre-emergence: Broadleaf

Servian

110 - 170

150 -200

 

Pea Production & Spray Guide

Pea | Page 56

 

Pea Production Guide

“Integrated Crop Solution” 

Mange tout and sugar snap peas are cool weather legumes which give maximized yields when air temperatures range between 7 - 24 degrees Celsius. It is possible to grow the crop outside of this optimum range by subtle use of irrigation. In areas prone to severe frost it is advisable that the crop should not be in production during these times. Flowers will abort resulting in a poor set and loss in yield as well as young pods being severely damaged.

Soils Peas can be grown on a wide variety of soils but, in general, heavier clay soils are preferable as they tend to result in higher yields. Well-aerated and well-drained sandy loams of pH 5,5 to 6,0 (calcium chloride) should be chosen. On soils with a pH of less than 5,3 must have lime applied with preference given to dolomitic lime.

Fertilization  All soils must be analyzed prior to planting so that any corrective measures may be taken before a problem becomes noticeable. Light sandy soils require more fertilizer than heavier soils. As a rule of thumb, apply 800  – 1000 kg/ha of compound A or B and in heavy clay soils use 400  – 500 kg/ha. If there has been a history of zinc deficiencies in the sandy soils compound Z may be used to substitute for half the compound B. The quantity and timing of AN top dressing is again dependent on soil type. On sandy soils up to 300 kg/ha AN can be applied on a regular basis starting from +/- 4 weeks after germination and should continue well into flowering f lowering and picking. Less AN would be required on heavier soils and the time between applications may be longer. Additional potash may be required and 75  –  100 kg/ha of muriate will help color and flavor. fl avor.

Varieties There are only two main commercial varieties in each group: Variety

Days to Maturity

Plant Ht

Resistances

Snow Wind

72

60 – 70 cm Powdery Mildew, Pea Enation Mosaic Virus  

Snow Green

70

75 – 80 cm Powdery Mildew, Common Wilt

Sugar Lady Cascadia Super Sugarsnap

75

75 –90 cm Fusarium Wilt, Wilt, Powdery Mildew Common Pea Wilt Virus, Pea Enation Mosaic 75-90 cm Virus 

60 66   66

150 cm cm  P Powdery owdery Mildew, Pea Leaf Roll Virus Virus   Pea | Page 57

 

Seed  All Pea Seed is treated with Apron Star Seed Seed Dressing

Population Seed can either be hand or mechanically sown to achieve a population of about 160 000 plants per hectare. The approximate weight of seed sown per hectare will vary according to the variety but is normally in the region of 40  – 50 kg/ha.  As a general guideline plant two t wo rows per bed on beds that are 1,5 m center to center. A builtup bed is advisable as it reduces chances of water logging from occurring thus improving soil aeration. During the dry winter months this may not be necessary, and planting can be done on the flat. In-row spacing is 8 cm and between the rows on the beds it is 15  – 20 cm. The rows are close together for ease of trellising.  As an alternative, single lines can be planted at 1m apart and with 6 cm in -row spacing. No less than 5 cm should ever be used as the in-row spacing as this will result in plants not tillering due to excessive competition. Minimum distance between the rows is approx. 90 cm which is determined by the ease of picking, spraying etc.

Planting Sow seed to a depth of 25 to 40 mm into moist pre-irrigated soil. Always plant upwind when a series of plantings are to be in the same field so that the older plantings are downwind of emerging crops. This will reduce the pest and disease pressure especially of Heliothis,  Ascochyta, Powdery mildew and Mycosphaerella. Boron deficiency is indicated by a clear yellowish to light green rim to the leaf. Copper sprays can cause similar symptoms and stunt leaves so be careful with excess copper sprays.

Pea | Page 58

 

Pests and diseases Before using any chemicals please check that it is on your exporter ’s Declared Pesticide List and read the label for manufacturer’s instructions.

Weeds Great care should be taken to follow label instructions, with reference to depth of planting, restrictions related to soil type and range of weeds likely to be controlled. Peas are generally a winter crop so broadleaf weeds are likely to be a greater problem than grasses.

planting to wet soil or follow with a light irrigation. Terbutryn:  Apply within 48 hours of planting Controls mainly broad leaf weeds and has a residual action of 6  – 8 weeks. Rates :

0 - 10 % clay 10  – 20  % clay 20 c ay over 30 % clay

2 l/ha 2,5 l/ha 3,0 l/ha 4,0 l/ha

Dual Magnu m 960EC

 Apply within 48 hours of planting and irrigate it controls grass, weeds. Pre-emergence application rate is 1,2-1,5lt per ha Fusilade Forte

This may be used up to 3 l/ha over the top of peas when they are 50  – 150 mm high to control certain broadleaf weeds and yellow nutsedge. Do NOT exceed this rate on peas  – nor should it be used on frost damaged crops or when frost is imminent. Weeds must be at a susceptible stage. This will control most emerged true grasses and will also suppress Upright Starbur when sprayed at 1  – 1.5 l/ha dependent on height and species of grass. It can be safely applied over the top of peas at any stage. Weeds must be growing vigorously, and herbicide effect may not be noticed for some time after spraying. Fusilade Forte becomes rain fast within 1  – 2 hours.

Pea | Page 59

 

Insects Nematodes

Solvigo 108SC at 3lts/ha into planting furrow before covering. Will also control soil borne insects and early sucking pests (Aphids/Thrips). PHI 45 days Oxamyl @ 4l/ha split into 2l /ha at planting followed by 2 l/ha two weeks later. Soil must be wet at the time of application or irrigation to follow within two hours. It must be applied in a high volume of water (1000 l/ha) applied with the nozzle of the knapsack removed and drenched as close to plants as possible.

Cut worm

Karate Zeon@ 100 ml/ha applied over the crop at germination. Soil must be moist.

Heliothis bollworm

This can be quite a problem particularly during warm spells. Spray with :Karate Zeon @ 200ml/ha in 500lt volume of water (PHI 2days).  Ampligo @ 250ml/ha in 500lt volume of water water (water PH1 3days). Proclaim @ 250gm/ha in 500lt volume of water (PHI 2days). Match @ 600ml/ha in 500lt volume of water (PH1 14days) Do not use Karate Zeon as a foliar application between 1 June and 1 August

Thrips

This small insect is difficult to control as it lives mainly in the growing points and flowers. The use of sugar as a form of bait has been found to give better control (100g/100l). Use: DDVP @ 1lt/ha (PHI 1day) Proclaim @ 300gm/ha (PHI 3days)

Diseases In all instances good leaf cover is essential for effective control and good spraying techniques are imperative.

Pea | Page 60

 

Damping Da mping off

Newly emerged young plants are susceptible to damping off and root rot r ot diseases, especially under conditions unfavorable for germination and early growth. Apron Star 42 WS as a seed dressing @ 3gm/kg seed prior to planting. Benlate @ 1 kg/ha drenched along plant bases. This is the only time that Benlate should be used in the crop due to overseas restrictions. Powdery Mildew

This disease thrives in hot dry weather. Sulphur @ 1  – 2 kg/ha is a cheap preventative chemical that should be sprayed on a weekly basis. This product must not be mixed with other chemicals and only sprayed during the cool of the day.  Amistar Top @ 500ml/ha (PHI 14days) Score @ 350ml/ (PHI 14days  Are systemic curatives

Downy Mildew

It is more prevalent in cool wet conditions where the plants are covered by dew until midmorning. Preventative sprays of Copper @ 2kgs/ha will help and curative sprays of Ortiva @ 600ml/ha once the disease has been seen. Black Spot (Ascoch yta pisi and Mycosphaerella Mycosphaerella pinodes)

 Ascochyta only attacks the leaves and pods whilst Mycosphaerella also attacks the stem and root crown. Circular lesions appear on the leaves and tiny raised spots form on the pods. Overwatering exaggerates the problem and encourages the spread of the disease. Control in the field is achieved with: Use of disease-free certified seed Good crop rotation (at least three years) Irrigate in mornings only to allow plants to dry out before night fall. Copper Oxychloride @ 2 - 3 kg/ha as a preventative spray weekly Bravo 720SC @ 1,4 lt/ha (PHI 14days) Ortiva 250SC @ 500-600ml/ha (PHI 3days) .

 

Pea | Page 61

Harvesting During the summer months the picking starts eight weeks after planting but this will be as much as twelve weeks during mid-winter. The crop is generally harvested for 3  – 4 weeks in hot weather and up to six weeks in winter. Picking must be daily as the peas become over mature and unmarketable very quickly. One woman should be able to pick 25 kg in one day but where there is a bonus incentive over 50 kg per person has been achieved.  As soon as the pod is picked it is essential that field heat is removed as quickly as possible to ensure that shelf life is kept to a maximum. The containers that the peas are picked into must be small bowls which are emptied into waiters ’ crates and placed into a nearby field hut to be kept in the shade. If the hut is made of hessian sacking, then it is advisable to keep it wet during the day. These crates must be labelled according to the field number from which they have been picked and transported to the cold store every two hours. The cold store should be kept at approximately 3 degrees.

Pea | Page 62

 

Pea Spray Guide

Stage

Nursery

Transplanting & Establishment

Days:

-7

0-14

Rapid Leaf Growth

14-50

Floret Formation 35-45

Floret / Head Expansion

50-70

Harvest

Product

Rate/ha

60-120

grams or ml/100 Lts water @ 500

EU MRL mg/kg

Days to Harvest (phi)

Lts Pest Problems 3 Lts

600

0.01 

45

100ml/ha (cutworm 200ml/ha (bollworm)

20/40

0.02 

2

Trigard 75 WP

150 gm

30

5

3 

Dynamec 018 EC

560 ml

115

Proclaim 05 SG

250gm

50

Ampligo 150 ZC Match 050 EC

250 ml

50

600ml

120

0.01  0.01  0.01  0.02 

2.5gm/kg seed 500 -800 ml

60 - 120

Bravo 720 SC

1.4 Lts

Amistar Top 325SC

500 ml

Copper Oxychloride

3 kg

600

Dual Magnum 960 EC

1.3 Lts

100

Fusilade Forte

1.25 Lts

Solvigo

Nematodes

Solvigo

Karate Zeon 5Cs

Cutworm

Karate Zeon

Leafminer

Trigard/Dynamec

Pod Bollworm

Karate Zeon/ Proclaim/Ampligo/Match

Thrips

 Ampligo / Proclaim/

Red Spider Mites

Apron Star Oritiva 250 SC

Dynamec

Disease Problems Damping off

 Apron Star Seed Dress

Ascochyta Ortiva / Bravo / Copper/Amistar Top

Downy mildew  Amistar Top/ Ortiva

Powdery mildew

|P e a

 

Pre-emergence: grasses +

 

3

Broadleaf

6

2 

14

100

1  20  0.05 

7 2

250

Touchdown

2 Lts

400

0.05na

*  No of appl’ns appl ’ns = Number of applications per crop cycle; depend on problem pressu re,  weather conditions conditions and crops chemical chemical alternations. alternations.

Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses g

280

400

Gramoxone / Touchdown

e

a

2-4 3

2 Lts

Touchdown

P

3 

Gramoxone

Weed Problems Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals Pre-emergence: grasses

Fusilade Forte Codal Gold/ Terbutryn

 

 

Pepper Production & Spray Guide

3 14

Seed Dress

1  0.02na

 Amistar Top/ Ortivah

7 3

na

28

Pepper | Page 64

 

Pepper Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

General Peppers can be grown outdoors but most pepper production is in Greenhouses under glass or plastic. Bell types have the largest share of the market. Fruits are large, blocky, three or four lobed, thick fleshed, nice dark green when immature turning either red, orange, yellow, and some black when fully ripe. Open pollinated and hybrid cultivars are available at Seed Co. Hybrid F1 cultivars have combined resistance to several diseases. Hybrid seed is more expensive and gives bigger fruits and higher yields than open pollinated cultivars. As a Pepper plant grows and flowers, the growth of the plant is reduced while those fruits that have been set are filled to maturity. When these fruits have been harvested a new flush of growth takes place and the next lot of fruits are set. This process continues for as long as the plant is well cared for regards to nutrients and no disease or virus allowed to affect the plant. A pepper plant has a growth rate of about 25% slower than a tomato plant. Peppers have a slow production of leaf area as their leaves are much thicker and harder than tomatoes so have to expend more energy to produce the same leaf area. Because of the slow growth rate this makes peppers sensitive to any stress and are slow to recover. Successful and on-going production lies in a steady, regular growth rate throughout the life cycle. Avoid planting peppers in the same fields or greenhouses and tunnels previously planted with Tomato, Eggplant, Peppers or other Solanaceous crops as they share the same pest and disease problems. Peppers are generally self-pollinating. Planting time in important as there will be no pollination of flowers if the temperature is below 12° C. Fruit

will set but there will be no seeds in the fruits. Good seed set is important to achieve a good yield.

Varieties Seed Co supplies a rich diversity of peppers for both greenhouse and open field production including Re   (yellow). Consult your Red d Prim e (red), Springbok  (yellow), Hercules (red), Solanor  (yellow). Seed Co Agronomist for best varieties.

Soil Peppers like a PH range of 6.0 – 6.5. Soils can be from heavy loam to medium clay loam have a good structure, well aerated so good drainage can be achieved. Deep ripping to a depth of 40cm-45cm will allow for a good deep-rooted crop as pepper plants are sensitive to excess water around the root system, but at the same time are susceptible to water stress.

Pepper | Page 65

 

Fertilization Basal: The main nutrient requirements are in a range of N 160-250kgs per hectare, P2O5 200-300kgs per hectare, K2O 200kg per hectare. This can be checked against the soil analysis done to decide on the rate of fertilizer to be applied to the crop. As a rule, a compound or blend fertilizer can be used at a rate of 750kg  – 1000kg per hectare of compound “B” or “C” depending on the soil analysis result. Top Dressing: Two weeks after transplanting start top dressing with 35kg per hectare Calcium Nitrate for the first two top dressings then up to 45kg per hectare Calcium Nitrate every week till first harvest. Then apply Potassium Nitrate 30kg-40kg per hectare- e per week two weeks before final harvest. Magnesium sulphate and Boron should be applied regularly after harvesting begins to prevent deficiencies. Ask your agronomist for advice on rates, or after sap test results. Blossom end rot can be caused by moisture stress, root damage or low PH. and a deficiency of Calcium. Blossom end rot is not only confined to the blossom end in peppers but can also occur on the sides of the fruits, often in combination with sun scorch.

Irrigation Peppers do not like wet feet but are very susceptible to water stress. The well-prepared bed will help with drainage and encourage deep rooting. Irrigation requirements range from 600mm  – 

700mm. Peppers require a soil moisture content of around 80% of field capacity. Frequency of irrigation will depend on soil type. During the summer months soils need to be irrigated every 5  –  7 days and if drip irrigation is used normally every day of about 0.5lts. Drip irrigation is preferable to furrow irrigation or sprinkler systems. Overhead irrigation is not normally recommended for a pepper crop. Wet leaves and fruits promote disease development. If overhead sprinkler irrigation has to be used avoid irrigating towards evening and make sure plants are dry before night fall. With drip irrigation the salt concentration around the roots must be washed out from time to time. Enough soil moisture should be maintained during fruiting which will promote large, more numerous fruits.

Growth & Development The pepper plant grows upright with a single stem for 8  – 10 leaves. A “Y” shoot now forms and a flower bud forms in the split of the “Y”. As these two branches grow out, they also develop into a “Y” form and a flower bud appears in the split of that “Y”. This pa ttern is repeated for about 5 nodes always splitting into two after the formation of a terminal flower. As the first fruits set, they take all the energy from the plant inhibiting further growth, flowering and fruit set. Once the first fruits are harvested the energy is then channeled to new growth, flowers and fruits. Pepper | Page 66

 

 Agronomy Peppers planted in the open fields can be transplanted into beds 30cm high with a top section of 1.2m  – 1.5m wide. A soft seed bed with a fine texture will also promote active root growth. At transplanting plants are spaced 50cm apart and 50cm between the two rows on the top of the bed. This gives a population of approximately 26,600 plants per hectare. Beds can either be covered with grass mulch or wheat straw or thin plastic sheeting. Mulching helps to conserve moisture and reduce weeds. Plant populations in a greenhouse or tunnel can be from 22,000  –  25,000 plants per hectare. A normal method is to use a tram line system, planting staggered or off set double rows with 40cm  – 60cm between plants. A pathway is left between the tram lines for easy access. This can be 40cm  – 60cm. Plants in row can be 50cm  – 60cm apart. A 60cm tram line with 60cm in row spacing with a one-meter pathway gives a plant density of around 2 plants per square meter. The tram line system makes better use of available greenhouse space than single rows. Varieties must be well selected as this is vital for success. There are many factors to consider, this includes fruit type, color, wall thickness and fruit size which will be best suited in the marketplace. A Seed Co Agronomist can help with variety selection. Disease resistance is also of importance.

Seeding and Planting Germination of Pepper seed needs optimum day temperatures of 24° C  –  28° C with night temperatures 20° C  – 21 °C. The minimum temperature a pepper seed will germinate is 13° C. Pepper seed may be seeded directly or in a well-prepared seed bed or done as a speedling by a professional nursery. As F1 hybrid seed is expensive the seed should be propagated as a

speedling in 128 cell trays or 200 cell trays or in pots. The bigger the surface area of the cell or the pot the seedling will be thicker with a sturdier stem. The ideal seedling should be 15cm  –  18cm tall with 5  –  6 true leaves. If seedbeds are used a plant density of approximately 200 plants per square meter is optimal. Normally seedlings will be ready in about 60 days depending on temperature. Seedlings in seedbeds, trays or pots need to be hardened off well prior to transplanting. Just before pulling top dress with a balanced nutrient solution. If seedbeds are being done do not over water after sowing as lack of oxygen will inhibit germination. At transplanting, if the weather is very hot then transplant the seedling in the cool late afternoon or under cloud cover if any. This ensures that the transplanting shock of the seedling is minimized. Irrigate as soon as possible after transplanting.

Pepper | Page 67

 

In field peppers that are not pruned the normal fruit set is about 8 fruits per plant. If the weather permits a second, much later flush is possible after the first fruits have been harvested. By removing the first terminal flower and developing a stronger plant before setting the first fruit this will allow more splits and more regular fruit setting resulting in a rise of 10  –  15 more fruits. Some outdoor growers of F1 hybrid production can achieve yields o f 80  – 90 tons  per hect are fro m 25 25,0 ,000 00 plants.

Production in Greenhouse or tunnel structures makes space very expensive therefore growers must achieve the highest possible yields to pay for the structures. This means cropping for as long as possible from one planting and to avoid non-productive down time, maximizing the yield potential from every plant and from every square meter of surface. Production in these structures normally produce the best quality. To achieve maximum yields, one must balance the crop yield with available leaf factory. For a pepper crop to re-establish its production it takes too long and can lead to big losses in income. A pruning program is aimed at suppressing early fruit set and promoting the establishment of a strong plant factory. By ensuring that all available energy goes into leaf and root growth, and thereafter maintaining equilibrium between leaf growth and fruit development. The grower must be able to manage all stages of fruit development on the plants, from a mature green or colored fruit at the bottom of the plant, through all stages of green to an open flower and new flower development at the top of the plant. It will also be necessary to prune side shoots until the start of flowering. When grown in Greenhouses and tunnels the plants are normally supported by strings attached to a cross member above the plants and the string wound around the stem to support it or by using

individual stakes. Light shade cloth of 12% white will also promote bigger leaves, lowers temperature in hot climate areas and slightly reduce light intensities. All these factors promote growth and fruit set in peppers.

Harvesting Tweet pepper fruits should be harvested when they reach full size and firmness. In general, a good size fruit would weigh between 150grams  – 180grams the fruit at this stage should have nice thick walls, be firm and the blossom end well formed. Sweet or Bell peppers should be large, blocky, 3 -4 lobed, sweet and thick fleshed. They are usually harvested before they begin changing color, that is if it is to be sold as green fruits. One can pick the early green fruits to reduce the stress of the first load on the plant. Remove excess fruits as needed to stimulate regular bearing. Colored fruits are picked before they have turned completely red or yellow because as they mature, they become soft more quickly. Shelf life is shorter for fully colored peppers compared to green peppers. When the peppers are about 75% colored, they are ready for harvesting. Stems of pepper plants are very fragile so use a sharp knife when harvesting. Be careful not to damage the plants. Do not pick if the exterior of the fruits is moist as this will encourage disease. Some stem MUST be left on the fruit. Pepper | Page 68

 

Post-harvest, peppers should be stored at a temperature 8° C  – 10 °C and RH of 90% - 95%. Under these ideal conditions you can store the harvested peppers for up to three weeks.

Temperature control is important as below 5 °C they will suffer chilling injury though from 7° C and above they will continue to ripen. The time scale from planting to production may vary from 80  –  90 days in warm weather conditions and from 110 - 120 days in cool weather conditions. The harvesting period varies between 10 – 12 weeks depending on how well pests and diseases are controlled.

Pepper | Page 69

 

  P e

Pepper Spray Guide Stage

Nursery

|

Days:

0-35

g

Pest Problems

p p e r P a e 7

Transplanting

Vegetative

28-36

30-60

First flowers

First Fruits

60-65

65-70

0

Nematodes

Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids

 Actara Soil drench

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Fruitworm & Caterpillars

 Ampligo / Match / karate karate Zeon / Proclaim

Aphids & Red Spider Mite

Polo / Actara / Dynamec

Disease Problems Damping off

 Apron Star / Maxim

Bacteria spot & rot

Bion / Copper Oxychloride

Cercospora (Frogeye)

 Amistar Top / Ortiva

Anthracnose

Bravo / Amistar Top

Powdery mildew

 Amistar Top

Phytophthora rootcrown

Ridomil Gold MZ / Folio Gold / Revus

Virus complex

Weed Problems Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals Pre-emergence: grasses Post-emergence: grasses Pre-emergence: grasses + Broadleaf

 

 Actara / Ortiva

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop crop damage. Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Dual Magnum

Fusilade Forte

Codal Gold

Mature +75

 

Potato TPS Production & Spray Guide

Potato TPS | Page 71

 

Potato TPS Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

Nursery Bed - 1 metre in width and 50metres in length. - This is enough area for 1 hectare of seedlings.

Fertilizer

- Compound “S” at 1kg per square meter. - Or 1kg Cow Manure per square meter. - Or 1.5kg Compost per square meter.

Dig or chop in fertilizer to 10cm in depth. Make sure the soil has a fine tilth. Open a furrow 5mm deep across the width of the bed. Furrows will be at 10cm intervals across the bed. Sow the T.P.S. at 2 grams per square meter, 100grams should do 500 lines. Cover the seed in the furrow with sieved compost.

Cover the bed with vlei grass to form a mulch so the soil is just visible through the mulch. Water by rose at least three times a day until germinated. Keep soil moist. After 8  – 10 days the seed should germinate. Apply Karate over the bed to control cutworm. Once the first leaves are about match head size remove mulch. Keep watering at least twice a day.  At the 3-leaf stage or at 14 days after germination top dress with A.N. at 5gr. Per meter square. Dissolve the A.N. in a can of water and then apply through the rose. After top dressing with A.N. wash fertilizer off the leaves with water to prevent burning the small plants with A.N. Do this as require if seedling color is pale. Seedlings should be ready about 42 days after sowing or when 4-5 true leaf stage.

Transplanting - Prepare the main field and make sure there is a fine tilth. - Soil PH 5.0 to 5.5 Do not Lime prior to planting - Basal 1500 – 2000kg Compound “S” Depending on the soil type. t ype.  - Make furrow 8 – 12 cm deep and 90cm apart. Place the seedling in the pre irrigated furrow f urrow 25cm apart in the furrow. Cover the seedling up to the 1st node. - Irrigate the field immediately after transplanting. - After 3 weeks do the earthing up. After the next 3 weeks do the second earthing up. You should now have a ridge about 30cm in height. Potato TPS | Page 72

 

Top Dressing

- Apply 150-200kgs/hect. A.N. depending on soil soil type at 3 weeks after transplanting. - Apply 75-100kgs/hect A.N. at 5 weeks Also apply 200kg Sulphate of Potash at 1st flowering and another 200kg Sulphate of Potash two weeks after 1st flower.

Irrigation - Light soils 25-30mm every 3 – 4 days in hot months and 5- 7 days in cool months - Heavy soils 30-35mm every 4 – 5 days in hot months 8 – 9 days in cool months

Harvesting  About 90 – 100 days after transplanting, cut haulms.  Allow 10 days for for Potato tuber skin to harden harden then lift. lift.

Fungal Disease Control recommendations Early Blight: - Amistar Top 100ml/100lts water. Start at 1st sign of the disease Or Bravo 720 1lt/100lts water. Start at 1st sign of the disease. Late Blight: - Revus 100ml/100lts water. Start when weather conditions favor disease development i.e. rains Or Folio Gold 400ml/100lts water. Start when weather conditions favor disease i.e. rains. Broad Spectrum Control Leaf Blight Spot. Copper Oxychloride 2kg/100lt water. Spray weekly after rain or each irrigation.

Virus Disease Control Bion 30g/100lt water. Important if seed is to be kept for commercial plantings. Start 3 weeks after transplanting and every 3 weeks with the maximum of 3 applications.

Pests Cutworm - Karate 50mls/100lts water. Band spray over the rows. Potato Tuber Moth - Ampligo 60mls/100lt water. When pest seen.  Aphids - Actara 40gm/100lt water. When pests seen. Leaf Miner - Dynamec 250mls/100lts water. Control adults. Spray when seen. Trigard 75grs/100lts water. Spray when Mines seen on leaves.

Yields 30 to 45 tons p er hectare. Potato TPS | Page 73

 

 

Potato TPS Spray Guide

P o

T

ta to

Stage

Pre-Plant

Planting to

Rapid Canopy

Tuber

Complete canopy Maturation

P S

emergence |

Days: 7

e

Pest Problems

g

a

P 4

-7

0-14

Early Leaves

14-28

to flowering

initiation

and growth

28-42

 Agrochemical

35-49

70-91

91-120

Solvigo

Soil Pest & Aphids

 Actara Soil Drenc h

Cutworm

Karate Zeon

Leafminer - Lyriomyza

Trigards / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Actara 25 WG drench

400 gm

Actara 25 WG foliar spray

200 gm

40

Ampligo 150 ZC

200-400 ml

Amistar Top 325 SC Bravo 720 SC

Dynamec Folio Gold 537,5 SC

Dynamec / Polo

Karate Zeon 5CS

Spray EU Interval MRL (days) mg/kg

Days to Harvest (phi)

 Ampligo / Match / Proclaim

Aphids

Polo / Ampligo / Actara

Disease Problems

n/a

1

n/a

7-14

1-2

7

40-80

14

2-4

7

500 ml

100

7-14

2-4

1.5 Lts

300

7-10

4-6

3

560 ml

115

14

3-4

3

2Lts

400

10

2-3

100 ml in 150 Lts water 600 ml

na

1

120

10-14

2-4

500 ml / ton tubers

Oritiva

600 - 800 ml

60 - 120

Polo 500 SC

500 ml

100

Proclaim 05 SG

250 g

Ridomil Gold MZ 68 WG

Maxim / Ortiva Drench

70

Maxim XL 035 FS

Revus 250 SC

Black &SilverScurfs: Soft

4 g/1,5Lts water/100m furrow

Match 050 EC

Potato Tuber Moth

50

14 3

7

na

1

na

10

2-1

7 21

7

2

7-14

2

1

500 ml

100

7-14

2-4

3

2.5 kg

100

7-14

1-2

14

n/a

1

n/a

14

3 Lts

Solvigo

50

Copper Oxy / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight

Foilo Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold

Trigard 75 WP

150 g

30

7-14

3-4

Dual Magnum 960 EC

1 Lts

200

na

1

na

250

na

1

28

Fusilade Forte

virus complex

 Actara Soil Drench

Weed Problems

1.25 Lts

Gramoxone

2 Lts

400

na

na

Touchdown

2 lts

400

na

28

* No of appl’ns appl’ns = Number of applications ap plications per crop cycle; depend on problem pressure, weather conditions and crops chemical alternations.

Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals Pre-emergence: grasses

grams or ml/100 Lts water @ 500 Lts water/ha

 

Nematodes

rot, common scab Early blight / Alternaria

Rate/ha

and tuber growth & Senescence

Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Dual Magnum

Post-emergence:: grasses Post-emergence Fusilade Forte

Dessication Gramoxone

 

 

Potato Tubers Production & Spray Guide

Potato Tubers | Page 75

 

Potato Tubers Production Guide op Solution”  “Integrated Cr op

Climate Potatoes thrive under warm day temperatures and cool nights. The optimum mean temperature ranges from 16-20 C. Severe frost will kill a crop. A minimum of 400mm of water is required to grow the crop

Soils Potatoes can be grown on a wide range of soil types. Being shallow rooted and fast-growing potatoes are generally grown on heavier textured soils. However, with suitable fertilization and good management the lighter soils can produce good yields. A well-drained soil is essential.

Soil pH  A wide pH range of 4.2-5.8 (Calcium chloride) method) is tolerated. The optimum pH lies between 5.0-5.5. It is not advisable to lime just prior to planting a potato crop as this can increase the incidence of potato scab (related to high soil pH). Lime should therefore be applied at some other stage of rotation.

Land Preparation Good, deep ploughing is essential. A depth of at least 30cm is recommended. A ne tilth is necessary for good tuber development. In the case of grass leys, virgin soils or following leguminous green crops, the land should be ploughed several months before planting to enable

the organic matter to rot down. This is important as soils rich in organic matter may aggravate the occurrence of Potato Scab. Under these conditions an application of 100kg/Ha Ammonium Nitrate will assist the breakdown of organic matter. Should a potato crop follow other crops a single ploughing and harrowing is all that’s necessary. 

Seed The use of high-quality seed is of vital importance. The risk of virus infection makes the choice of seed a major consideration. Certified seed will usually produce 15-20% higher yields than standard seed and will cover the additional costs. Three grades of seed are available to growers. Grade AA and XX is available for a limited period (May-July) in anyone-year. Grade A is available throughout the year.

Potato Tubers | Page 76

 

Grade AA – produced in Nyanga Varietal Purity: 99.5% Health: Not more than 0.25% leaf roll or severe mosaic virus. Not more than 2% visible mild mosaic. No bacterial wilt at any stage of growth. Grade A Varietal Purity: 99.5% Health: Not more than 1% leaf roll or severe mosaic virus. Not more than 2% visible mild mosaic Grade XX – produced in Nyanga  As for Grade AA but tubers have been been subjected to a limited amount of mechanical mechanical damage.

Fertilization Requirements Potatoes require relatively large quantities of fertilizers because of their shallow roots and because of their need to bulk up within a short growing period. Macronutrients: (N)Nitrogen: This is an important im portant nutrient; however excessive dressings lead to excessive vegetative growth at the expense of yield. Excessive dressings or late applications of nitrogen result in tuber initiation and may result in i n physiological disorders of the tubers such as hollow heart. Potatoes require about 5kg of nitrogen per ton of tubers produced. (P25) Phosphate:  Potatoes have reasonably high requirement for this nutrient over a short

period. Potatoes require about 4kg of phosphate per ton of tubers produced. (K2) Potash: The crop requirements for potash are very high. An adequate supply of this nutrient can increase resistance to drought, frost and disease. Potash aids tuber quality and should be applied in the sulphate or nitrate forms, as potatoes are relatively sensitive to chlorine. Positive results r esults have been obtained using Potassium Nitrate foliar sprays to increase yield and increase frost resistance. Potatoes require about 9.12kg of potash per ton of tubers produced. Calcium: 

Potatoes respond well to calcium as it plays a role in tuber development. Most compound fertilizers contain 10-12% calcium but if the Calcium status of the soil is very poor, additional nutrient can be applied as Gypsum before planting or as foliar sprays of Calcium Nitrate. Potatoes require about 3.25kg of calcium per ton of tubers produced.

Magnesium: This nutrient is required for a potato crop but not in large quantities. Magnesium deficiencies are unlikely to occur where a liming material has been applied. A magnesium deficiency can be corrected by a foliar spray of 2kg Magnesium Sulphate per 100L water + 30ml Sanawett (wetter). Potato Tubers | Page 77

 

Sulphur: 

 Adequate quantities of sulphur are applied when using a compound compound fertilizer such as compound C or compound S as a basal fertilizer. Sulphate of Potash used as a top dressing also contains adequate sulphur.

Trace Elements: These are required in very small quantities by the crop. Most soils contain adequate levels of micronutrients but in the past specific instances of zinc and boron deficiencies have occurred. These deficiencies can be recognized and rectified as follows: Zinc: Leaves develop develop irregular grayish grayish brown or bronze spots. spots. Affected leaves are usually half way up the plant, but in severe cases all leaves show symptoms. In extreme cases internodes remain short and leaves small and thick. Spots develop on petioles and stems; top leaves assume a slightly vertical position and margins of leaves may curl upward so that growth resembles that of a fern. To rectify this deficiency mix 200g Zinc Oxide in 100L water and apply 300 – 400L of solution per Ha as a foliar spray while crop is young. This treatment is unnecessary where regular sprays of Dithane M45 are being used. Boron: Deficiency symptoms are indicated by deaths of growing points and lateral buds develop. The internodes remain short, giving the plant a bushy appearance. The upper leaves tend to be dark green, tough, with a shiny surface and with an upward curling of the leaf margins. Tuber symptoms show show the vascular rings turning partially or completely compounds

brown and rapid discoloration of the cat surface. As the fertilizer recommended for use use on potatoes contain boron this should be enough enough

for the plants requirements.

The symptoms of excess boron are poor stands due to indifferent sprouting. Sprouts die off after some growth has taken place. Roots fail to develop satisfactorily. Leaves become bleached or develop marginal yellowing. Do not exceed application of 2kg elemental boron per Ha.

Timing and Application of Fertilizers To ensure that the soil can supply adequate nutrients a carefully planned fertilizer program is needed. The required rates of fertilization vary considerably according to land history, soil type, variety, climate and yield expectations. To establish the correct rate of fertilization it is advisable to have a soil sample analyzed by a laboratory and to discuss the result with your local ZFC agronomist, whose knowledge of local conditions will be of great assistance. All the phosphate and most of the nitrogen and potash should be applied at or before planting. This is usually done as a basal dressing of a compound fertilizer. The remaining nutrients are applied as a top dressing. Potato Tubers | Page 78

 

The traditional recommendations have been to use Compound S (7:21:7). This fertilizer is high in phosphate and low in boron (0.04%). Compound S should be used on sandy soils and on soils that are low in phosphate, however the potash content is inadequate, and the crop will require further top dressings of potash if S is used. The other alternative is to use Compound C (6:17:15). This is probably the better compound to use for potatoes as the potash pota sh content is relatively high and phosphate is adequate. Standard suggestions for potato fertilization are: 1

Apply 1300 – 1500kg/Ha Compound S at planting, rate depending on the sandiness and

phosphate status of the soil. At three weeks after emergence apply 150  –  200kg/Ha AN as a top-dressing. Top dress with 400  –  500kg/Ha Sulphate of potash split into two equal applications, one at flowering and the other two weeks after flowering. (Potassium Nitrate at 450kg/Ha can be used in place of AN and Sulphate of potash). OR 2 Apply 1300  –  1500kg/Ha Compound C at planting. Apply 200kg/Ha AN 3 weeks after emergence as a top dressing. Top dress with 200  – 300kg/Ha Sulphate of potash split into two equal applications, one at flowering and the other two weeks after flowering. (Potassium Nitrate at 450kg/Ha can be used in place of AN and Sulphate of potash). When applying the basal Compound S or C applications, it is preferable to band the fertilizer to the side of the seed. If suitable banding equipment is not available, it may be placed in the furrow with the seed. A degree of fertilizer burn can result from this practice. To reduce this

possible effect a single line may be drawn along the bottom of the furrow to mix it with the soil, or a fertilizer covered with a thin layer of soil before planting the seed.  Another efficient method of application is i s to broadcast the fertilizer after ridging, set the seed in the furrow then split the ridge back over the seed. When tubers are in direct contact with the fertilizer a good initial irrigation will reduce the chances of burn occurring.

Planting Depth Seed should be set 7.5cm below the t he surface of heavy soil and 10 – 15cm in lighter soils. Deep plantings take longer to emerge and are more prone to attack by cutworm and other soil pests. However, the deep plantings are better protected against tuber moth attack and tuber greening.

Potato Tubers | Page 79

 

Under irrigation the crop will emerge more quickly and will mature earlier when planted shallow and the seed covered by leveling the soil. Alternatively planting deeper but covering the seed with 2.5  –  5cm of soil then re-ridging two- or three-times during growth will produce similar results. It should therefore be noted that most tubers develop above the seed, care should therefore be exercised to make adequate soil available for tuber t uber development.

Seeding Rate and Spacing Seeding rate is determined by the mass of seed to be used. The recommended rates are as follows: Summer crop: Ware 70pockets/Ha Seed 85pockets/Ha Irrigated winter crop: Ware Seed

-

85pockets/Ha 110pockets/Ha

The distance between rows will depend on available equipment – usually 90cm. This spacing in the rows will depend on the seed size. The following table gives the in-row in -row spacing at various row widths and various seeding rates:

Planting Distance Table

NOTE: Spacing is r elated elated to hollow heart – large tubers tend to be more prone to this physiological disorder, therefore varieties which tend to produce larger tubers should be planted at closer spacing to reduce tuber size.  A pocket of seed weighs 30kg The average number of tubers per pocket is as follows: Small: average number of tubers tubers   Medium:   Medium:

1085 – 1200 (typical mass 30g each)

average number of tubers tubers  

Large: average number of tubers tubers  

450 – 500 (typical mass 60g each)

250 (typical mass 120g each)

Potato Tubers | Page 80

 

It should therefore be noted that when a seed tuber is planted the sprouts give rise to several stems above the ground. These stems are in fact individual plants. Large seed tubers produce many sprouts and so more stems or plants than small tubers. Only where extra-large seed tubers are involved should cutting of the seed be necessary to achieve the desired seed rate.

 Adjustments to the seed rate should be made for variations in soil fertility and variety. Varieties noted for producing large numbers of tubers per plant will benefit from lower seed rates and vice versa. Tuber sprouting can be improved by using Gibberellic Acid. Uncut tubers can be dipped in a solution of 16ml Gibberellic Acid per 100L of water and cut tubers can be dipped in 3.2ml Gibberellic Acid per 100L of water. Leave the tubers to dry in a cool place and then plant as soon as the first sprouts start to t o appear.

Time of Planting  Although potatoes can be grown all year round, high temperatures in summer and frost in winter are limiting factors. Three times of plantings are the most common in Zimbabwe. First winter crop: This is planted pl anted from February through to April. The chosen time will be dictated by the rainfall pattern and the frost incidence. Late blight can be excessive and varieties with good resistance to this disease should be given preference. In lower altitude frost-free areas, planting should be delayed until March/April to take advantage of the cooler climate in winter. Supplementary irrigation is essential. Preventative spraying for late blight should be practiced during periods of overcast or wet weather. When heavy frost is anticipated a 1  – 2% solution of

potassium nitrate applied as a foliar spray early in the evening may reduce frost damage.

Second winter crop: This is planted in July/august as soon as the main danger of frost is over. Full irrigation is required. With flood irrigation late blight is unlikely to be a problem. The risk of late blight is increased when overhead irrigation is practiced, and spraying will be necessary after the blossom stage. Rising temperatures and longer days in spring and early summer improve yields in the medium to high altitude areas. In the lowveld lifting should be timed to occur before the very high temperatures of September/October as this affect tuber quality.

Planting Method  A good tilth is necessary if a good uniform stand is to be obtained. Ridging is essential when flood irrigation is used. Under overhead irrigation planting can be carried out on the flat and then ridged up later. Potato Tubers | Page 81

 

Planting by hand can be practiced behind a tractor drawn ridger, which opens the furrows. When no ridger is available a 3  – furrow plough can be used. The tubers are placed in an open furrow and are closed by the soil thrown during the following pass. The wheels of the tractor cannot run in the open furrow when using this method of planting.

Cultivation Potatoes are extremely sensitive to root damage. Cultivation should be kept to a minimum. As tubers must be well covered and protected from greening and tuber moth, ridging up is essential. Re-ridging should be completed by the time the plant is 25cm high. Care should always be exercised to ensure that no tubers are exposed. This will reduce the incidence of tuber moth. The ridges should be made as low as is consistent with good coverage for the tubers and for efficient flood irrigation where practiced. High steep ridges are subject to greater erosion and more rapid drying due to the greater surface area exposed to the sun. Wide flat-topped ridges, making adequate soil available for tuber development and tuber protection are the most satisfactory.

Irrigation Obviously for good yields of high-quality adequate water is required. Potatoes are sensitive ton drought from tuber initiation to tuber maturity. Potatoes are shallow rooted with a maximum root depth of 60cm. Lands should be brought up to field capacity to this depth at planting. No further irrigation should be necessary during

emergence. From the start of the tuber development (first flower buds) the crop should be watered regularly ensuring that all stress is avoided until the plants turn brown at maturity.  A guide to irrigation frequency and water water requirements for fully canopied crops crops is given below:

Excessive watering should be avoided since this leads to undue leaching of plant nutrients and reduces the keeping quality of potatoes. It is important to avoid bursts of growth (either through t hrough irrigation of fertilization, as this tends to increase the incidence of hollow heart. Drip irrigation on potatoes is i s becoming widely used – please contact Seed Co agronomist for more technical advice on this subject. Potato Tubers | Page 82

 

Potato Tubers Spray Guide Stage Days:

Pre-Plant -7

Planting to emergence 0-14

Early Leaves

14-28

Rapid Canopy

Tuber

to flowering 28-42

and Growth

Complete canopy

Maturation

and tuber growth

& Senescene

Initiation

35-49

70-91

Solvigo

Soil Pest & Aphids

 Actara Soil Drench

Cutworm

Karate Zeon

Leafminer - Lyriomyza

Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

 Actara 25 WG drench

400 gm

 Actara 25 WG foliar spray

200 gm

 Ampligo 150 ZC

1

n/a

40

7-14

1-2

7

200-400 ml

40-80

14

2-4

7

Amistar Top 325 SC

500 ml

100

7-14

2-4

Bravo 720 SC

1.5 Lts

300

7-10

4-6

Dynamec

560 ml

115

14

3-4

3

2Lts

400 70

10

2-3

14

120

10-14

Match 050 EC

 Ampligo / Match / Proclaim Polo / Ampligo / Actara

Disease Problems Maxim / Ortiva Drench

Early blight / Alternaria

Copper Oxy / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight

Foilo Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold

virus complex

 Actara Soil Drench

Weed Problems emergence perennials

to rs

e

Pre-emergence: grasses

a

Post-emergence: grasses

8

Dessication

u

T

Before planting - post emergence annuals

b

500 ml / ton tubers 600 - 800 ml

P

Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Fusilade Forte

g e 3

 

 

60 - 120 100

na

Gramoxone

3

3

1

2-4

7

na

1

na

10 7

2-1

7

2

21

2

1

Polo 500 SC

500 ml

Proclaim 05 SG

250 g

50

Revus 250 SC

500 ml

100

7-14

2-4

3

Ridomil Gold MZ 68 WG

2.5 kg

100

7-14

1-2

14

Solvigo

3 Lts

n/a

1

n/a

7-14

Trigard 75 WP

150 g

50 30

Fusilade Forte

1.25 Lts

200 250

Gramoxone

2 Lts 2 lts

400 400

1 Lts

7-14

3-4

14

na

1

na

na

1

na

na

na

28

* No of appl’ns appl ’ns = Number of applications per crop cycle; depend on problem pressure,  weather conditions and crops chemical alternations. alternations.

Dual Magnum

|

600 ml

Oritiva

Touchdown

Before planting - post

ta

100 ml in 150 Lts water

Maxim XL 035 FS

Dual Magnum 960 EC

o

4 g/1,5Lts water/100m furrow

,

 Aphids

P

grams or Spray EU Days to ml/100 Lts Interval MRL Harvest water @ 500 (days) mg/kg (phi) Lts water/ha n/a

Folio Gold 5 5 SC Karate37Zeon 5CS

Dynamec / Polo

Potato Tuber Moth

Black &SilverScurfs: Soft rot, common scab

Rate/ha

91-120

Pest Problems Nematodes

Agrochemical

28

Rape Production & Spray Guide

Rape | Page 84

 

Rape Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

Soils Rape performs well on in fertile loamy soils that have good drainage prepared to a fine tilth. The soils should be worked deeply to about 45cm as the roots can penetrate up to 600mm deep. Provide adequate irrigation and fertilization to maintain favorable soil moisture and nutrient supply across the rooting zone. Soil PH should be between 5.5 - 6.5.

General Rape can be grown throughout the year in Zimbabwe and favors day temperatures in the range of 18° C – 30 °C and night temperature of 10 to 15 ° C.

Cultural Practices For best results soils need to be prepared in advance and beds made up for summer production. Raised beds of at least 20cm  – 30cm high need to be made to help drainage with excess rainfall. Planting on the flat in winter is acceptable. Soil moisture is an important factor in rape production, hence, the level of available water in the root zone should not get below 50% holding capacity before the next cycle. Careful planning of irrigation is necessary regarding soil types and the time of year. Amounts of water to be applied vary from 18mm on sandy soils to 50mm on heavy soils per cycle. Rape needs lighter and more frequent irrigations more so than many other crops.

Rape | Page 85

 

Planting The use of quality speedlings is highly recommended to achieve a good uniform crop. For

planning purposes seedlings normally take about 5 weeks in the nursery in the winter months to  just under 4 weeks in the warmer months. Seedlings must be well hardened before planting. Mulching of summer production is recommended. After transplanting the seedling, a mulch using wheat straw, grass or saw dust is advisable. This will assist in lowering the soil temperature, cooling the crop, conserving moisture and preventing soil splash.

Spacing Planting on raised beds is recommended, and the beds can have 1.5m  –  1.8m bed center to bed center. Rows should be marked out on the top of the bed at 30cm to 40cm apart with seedlings placed 20cm to 30cm in row, giving 80,000 to 130 000 plants per hectare.

Fertilization  A general recommendation is to use a basal dressing of compound “B”, compound  "C", of 500  –  800kg per hectare compound "L" or compound "S" at a rate applied

pre-planting. Preferably,

broadcast

and

incorporate the

basal

fertilizer into

the soil before planting. Top dress with Ammonium Nitrate (AN) at a rate of 200 to 250kg per hectare applied in three to four splits before first picking (day 7, 14, 21 and 28 after transplanting). Avoid excessive Nitrogen fertilizer application, particularly after harvesting begins, as this can cause Nitrogen accumulation in the leaves, which affects the taste of the leaves? Rape also responds very well to manure (compost, chicken, goat or cattle), which can be applied at a rate of 10 000kg per hectare. hecta re.

Harvesting Harvesting starts about 30 days to 60 days after transplanting and period

will

depend

on

the

variety and

season.

For

the picking example, harvesting

of

Seed Co's Rape Rampart , can start from 30 days after transplanting and is picked about eight times for almost 45 days. Rape is harvested when the leaves have grown to a reasonable size. Harvest early morning before the day temperature gets too hot or late in the evening when the leaves are not showing any signs of wilting. Yield 20-25 leaf bundles.

stretches from 70

000 to

110 000 saleable

Rape | Page 86

 

Transport and storage If rape is being

delivered in

an open vehicle it should be

covered

with a

damp cloth-type cover to prevent wind vehicle has an insulated covered back

burn and dehydration. If be sure that the temperature

not go too high as this can cause dehydration and wilting. wilti ng. Always cool shade to minimize wilting at the marketplace.

store

the delivery inside does rape under

Rape | Page 87

 

 

 

Rape Spray Guide e

p

a

R

g

a

P

Stage

Nursery

Days:

0-42

Transplanting

Vegetative

|

25-42

40-70

e 8 8

Pest Problems Nematodes

Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids

 Actara Soil drench / Solvigo

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Leafminers

Dynamec / Trigard

Snails & Slugs

Mesurol

Thrips

snail pellets

 Actara / Ampligo

Disease Problems Damping off

 Apron Star Seed Dress Dress

Downy mildew

Revus / Ridomil Gold MZ

Sclerotinia Drop

Ortiva/ Amistar Top

Viru s complex

Weed Problems Before planting - post

 Actara Soil D rench / Dip

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.

 

Touchdown

emer ence erenn erennials ials

Before planting - post emergence annuals Post-emergence: grasses

Gramoxone/ Touchdown

Dual Magnum

 

 

Spinach Production & Spray Guide

Spinach| Page 89

 

Spinach Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

Soils Spinach performs well on a wide range of soils but favors fertile loam to sandy loam soils that have good drainage prepared to a fine tilth. The soils should be worked deeply to about 45cm as the roots can penetrate up to 600mm deep. Provide adequate irrigation and fertilization to maintain favorable soil moisture and nutrient supply across the rooting zone. Soil PH should be between 6.0 - 7.0 as spinach is sensitive to acidic soils.

General Spinach can be grown throughout thr oughout the year in Zimbabwe but favors  cool day temperatures in the range of 7 °C  – 24 °C and night temperature around 5 °C to 7 °C. Temperatures above 30 °C reduces leaf size and quality.

Cultural Practices For best results soils need to be prepared in advance and beds made up for summer production. Raised beds of at least 20cm  – 30cm high need to be made to help drainage with excess rainfall. Planting on the flat in winter is acceptable. Soil moisture is an important factor in spinach production, hence, the level of available water in the root zone should not get below 50% holding capacity before the next cycle. Careful planning of irrigation is necessary regarding soil types and the time of year. Amounts of water to be applied vary from 18mm on sandy soils to 50mm on heavy soils per cycle. Spinach needs lighter and more frequent irrigations more so

than many other crops.

Spinach | Page 90

 

Planting The use of quality speedlings is highly recommended to achieve a good uniform crop. For planning purposes seedlings normally take about 5 weeks in the nursery in the winter months to  just under 4 weeks in the warmer months. Seedlings must be well hardened before planting. Mulching of summer production is recommended. After transplanting the seedling, a mulch using wheat straw, grass or saw dust is advisable. This will assist in lowering the soil temperature, cooling the crop, conserving moisture and preventing soil splash.

Spacing Planting on raised beds is recommended, and the beds can have 1.5m  –1.8m bed center to bed center. Rows should be marked out on the top of the bed at 40cm to 50cm apart with seedlings placed 25cm to 30cm in row, giving about 60 000 to 100 000 plants per hectare.

Fertilization  A general recommendation is to use a basal dressing of compound compound

applied

"L" or compound pre-planting. Preferably,

the soil before per hectare

“B”, compound 

"C",

"S" at a rate of 500  –  800kg per hectare broadcast and incorporate the basal fertilizer into

planting. Top dress with Ammonium Nitrate (AN) at a rate of 200 to 250kg applied in three to four splits before first picking (day 7, 14, 21 and 28

after transplanting). Avoid excessive Nitrogen fertilizer application, particularly after harvesting begins, as this can cause Nitrogen accumulation in the leaves, which affects the taste of the leaves. Spinach also responds very well to manure (compost, chicken, goat or cattle), which can be applied at a rate of 20 000kg per hectare.

Harvesting Harvesting starts about 90 days to 130 days after transplanting and the picking period goes up to five months depending on the variety and season. Spinach is harvested when the leaves have grown to a reasonable size which goes up to 35cm length by 25cm width. Harvest early morning before the day temperature gets too hot or late in the evening when the leaves are not showing any signs of wilting. Yield stretches from 80 000 to 100 000 saleable 15-20 leaf bundles.

Spinach | Page 91

 

Transport and storage If spinach is being delivered in

an open

vehicle

it

should be

covered

damp cloth-type cover to prevent wind burn and dehydration. If vehicle has an insulated covered back be sure that the temperature

with a

the delivery inside does

not go too high as this can cause dehydration and wilting. Always store spinach under cool shade to minimize wilting at the marketplace.

Spinach | Page 92

 

 

 

spinach Spray Guide Stage

Nursery

Days:

0-42

Vegetative

Transplanting

40-70

25-42

Pest Problems Nematodes

Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids

 Actara Soil drench / Solvigo

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Leafminers

Dynamec / Trigard

Snails & Slugs

Mesurol

Thrips

snail pellets

 Actara / Ampligo

Disease Problems Damping off

 Apron Star Seed Dress Dress

Downy mildew

Revus / Ridomil Gold MZ

Sclerotinia Drop

Ortiva/ Amistar Top

Viru s complex

Weed Problems

S p

Before planting - post

in a

 Actara Soil D rench / Dip

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.

 

Touchdown

emer ence erenn erennials ials c h

Before planting - post emergence annuals Post-emergence: grasses | P a g e 9 3

 

 

Gramoxone/ Touchdown

Dual Magnum

Squashes / Butternuts Production & Spray Guide

Squashes / Butternuts| Page 94

 

Squashes / Butternuts Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

Soil requirements Butternuts prefer well drained sandy loam to loam soils with a high calcium content. Butternuts like growing in soils with a PH value of between 5.5 to 6.3. If less than 5.5 agricultural lime should be applied in accordance with soil analysis results. Low PH soils have Molybdenum and Calcium deficiencies which reduce the keeping quality of the fruits. Soil temperatures are important for good germination. Germination takes up to 3 weeks in soil temperatures between 10°C and 13°C, which makes the growth and management of the crop difficult. Soil temperatures around 15°C will result in good germination of around 7 days. 20°C gives maximum root development and even crops. Fields need to be prepared either by ploughing or rip and disc. If direct seeding, soil should be worked to a good tilth without too many big clods. It should be as level as possible to ensure even plant emergence, so irrigation or rainfall cannot form puddles. Be careful of crusting at emergence a light irrigation may be necessary.

Climatic conditions Butternuts are far less sensitive to unfavorable growing conditions than most other cucurbits. Butternuts prefer a warm dry climate and best growing conditions are when the temperature is between 20°C - 25°C with a maximum of 32°C, night temperatures not lower than 10°C. At higher temperature range as indicated female flowers can abort and young fruit can wilt and shrivel. There is a tendency for plants to produce fewer female flowers with high temperatures and long days.

Planting time For advice on varieties for seasons and the marketplace contact a Seed Co Agronomist for his recommendations. Butternuts can be planted as soon as the risk of frost is over, and temperatures are between the ranges stated earlier. Timing is important when planting so crops can mature before the hot humid summer rainfall conditions form as this can result in serious leaf disease problems. Aphids are usually a problem also at this time and can spread virus diseases very quickly. Direct seeding makes the germinating seed susceptible to attack by pathogens such as Fusarium and Rhizoctonia. Also rats and mice are a huge problem as they dig up and eat the germinating seed. Baiting with rat poison for these pests is most important to avoid heavy seed losses. A recommendation is for F1 hybrid seeds to be raised in a recognized nursery because of the high cost of the seed. By doing speedlings early while soil temperatures warm up the crop will be 2  – 3 weeks earlier than if direct seeded. Depth for direct planting of seed is 25  – 30mm, for speedlings just cover to level of the top of the plug. Make sure good plug to soil contact is achieved to ensure rapid take off seedlings in the fertilized enriched soil. Squashes / butternuts | Page 95

 

Spacing This depends on the cultivar, if it is a semi bush or vine type, the marketplace and the irrigation

system to be used. With overhead irrigation a single row 1.5m to 1.8m between rows and plants 0.5m to 0.8m in row. This gives a population of approximately 11,000  –  16,000 plants per hectare. Semi bush types can be planted in double rows 0.5m- 0.6m apart with plants 0.5m apart in row and 1.5m to 1.8m between the double rows. This gives 16,700  – 20,000 plants per hectare. This can help with weed control and gives smaller fruits where this is desirable for the marketplace.

Irrigation  As the butternut plant is of desert origin it has a determined root system. system. Butternut plants have a deep tap root to utilize water deep down in the soil whereas the shallow fibrous root system draws the water just below the surface. Butternuts irrigated by overhead sprinklers have root systems which spread at much the same rate as the vines on the surface. Calcium will not be easily available in over irrigated soil leading to calcium deficiency and blossom end rot. It is usually preferable to under irrigate the crop while young except at the critical stage of fruit set when the water amount should be increased. Clay soils tend to waterlog easily so let them dry out to some extent between irrigations, to allow oxygen to re-enter the root zone. Sandy soils require more regular irrigation to keep the soil moist. Loam to clay loam soils need only to be watered every second day.

Fertilization For a good crop of Butternuts, the plant will require some 200kg N: 50kg P: 500kg K, 120kg Ca and 70kg Mg per hectare. A guide is to use 600/800kgs compound “D” per hectare. 3 top dressings of 75kg per hectare AN at 3-5-7 weeks. All cucurbits are sensitive to Molybdenum deficiency. Symptoms are stunted growth and overall yellowing of the leaves. If the PH is above 5.5 more Molybdenum will be available. Seedlings can be sprayed with Sodium Molybdate at 120g in 500 liters water per hectare, which should be enough, but a second spray can be done at fruit set. Boron is essential for root hair growth through which Calcium is taken up. Boron can be sprayed on shortly before fruit set and 2  – 3 weeks later. Boron deficiency is indicated by a clear yellowish to light green rim to the leaf. Copper sprays can cause similar symptoms and stunt leaves so be careful with excess copper sprays.

Squashes / Butternuts | Page 96

 

Under irrigation the crop will emerge more quickly and will mature earlier when planted shallow and the seed covered by leveling leveling the soil. Alternatively planting deeper but covering covering the seed with 2.5 – 5cm of soil then re-ridging two- or three-times during growth will produce similar

Pollination Bees are the main pollinators of the Butternut crop. Bees are thought to be responsible for over 90%of its pollination. The female flower must be visited several times for efficient pollination. The use of 2 to 3 beehives per hectare is recommended.

Harvesting Butternuts usually take 85 to 100 days to harvest. Before the fruits are ready for harvest the stage of ripeness should show the rind an even beige in color, with no green ground color or blotches, the stalk hard but not dry. There may still be green stripes at the stem end. At this stage the fruits are suitable to the local market, but the internal color will be slightly pale and keeping quality poor. To achieve a high sugar content and a dark orange flesh leave the ripen on the vine. Once the green stripes on the fruits have almost gone, plants can be left to dry out. If irrigation continues at this stage the fruits will swell and crack. When harvesting cut the stalk 10 to 15mm above the thickened attachment to the fruit, this cut must not leave sharp edges or a point which could pierce other fruits during handling and storage. Yields ranges fr om 30 to 45 tons per hectare.

Squashes / Butternuts | Page 97

 

/S q u a

Butternut Spray Guide

 

s h e s |B u tt

Stage

Pre-Plant

Days (Courgettes):

-7

Days (Butternut):

-7

Planting to Emergence 0-10

Vegetative

First Flowers

Pod Development & First Picking

Peak Picking

10-28

28-35

35-42

45-60

s

10-42

42-49

49-56

100

e t

u

n

r

0-10

8

Pest Problems: 9 P a g

Soil Pests Nemetodes e

Solvigo

 Actara Soil Drench

Cutworm

Karate Zeon

Leafminer

Trigard/Dynamec/

Red Spider Mites Curacron/dynamec/Polo

Pumkin Fly

Lebaycid

Disease Problems Damping Off

 Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex

 Amistar Top / Score

Powdery Mildew

Revus/Ridomil Gold/Folio

Anthracnose

Bravo / Amistar Top / Score

Virus Complex

 Actara Soil Drench

Weed Problems Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals Post-emergence: Post-emerge nce: grasses Nutgrass (Yellow + Purple)

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage. Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Fusilade Forte

Servian

 

 

Sugar Bean Production & Spray Guide

Sugar Bean | Page 99

 

Sugar Bean Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution” 

General Description The dry bean is an important field crop because of its high protein content and dietary benefits. Dry Beans are a warm season legume being upright or bush type plants. Small flowers are produced in clusters at various nodes on the stalks and can be either white or lavender in color. The flowers are self-pollinating. Flowering continues for 2  – 3 weeks, so there can be a mixture of new pods, half developed pods and pods nearing full development. This calls for good scouting for pest management. The first half of the growing period is vegetative development and the latter half is reproduction. The crop matures in 85 to 120 days from planting. As the pods mature, they change from green to light brown or tan. Each pod can contain 2-4 seeds. Yields can vary fr om 600kg 600kg per h ectare up to 1.5 ton s per hect are.

Planting Generally early January to late February in the Highveld and right through to mid- August in the Low veld frost free areas. The soil temperature must be above 13°C for optimum germination results. Dry Bean production requires a warm climate with temperatures between 18° C - 24° C. The maximum temperature during the flowering period should not exceed 30° C as high temperatures will cause flower drop and thus low pod set, resulting in depressed yields. Beans require a minimum of 400mm to 500mm rain fall during its growing season but totals of 600mm to 650mm is considered ideal. Irrigation is also required where the crop is growing out of the rains and in winter production in the Low Veld area. The critical growth stage requiring rainfall or irrigation is during flowering and pod set. Irrigation should stop when roughly 25% of the bean

pods have turned yellow.

Soil Preparation The soil needs to be ploughed or ripped to a depth of 300mm then disced to get a good tilth, the soil needs to be firm at planting and a level seedbed prepared to ensure even germination. A level firm seed bed ensures good surface contact between the seed and soil. Planting depth of the seed should be 2.5cm to 4.5cm below the soil surface

Spacing The optimum spacing between rows is 75cm. A spacing of 90cm is also used when agricultural machinery is set up for maize planting. Seed spacing in row is between 60mm to 75mm. Generally, around 177,000 to 200,000 plants per hectare will give good results.

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Fertilization Beans will do best with a soil PH of 5.5  – 5.8. Beans are very sensitive to acidic soils. If the PH is not at these levels, then apply lime as per the soil sample recommendations. Beans can be planted into soils which have been well fertilized for previous crops though slight top ups at planting will be beneficial. A rate of 250kg per hectare of Compound “D” drilled in with the planter or broadcasted with a Vicon before the final discing before planting. Calcium Sulphate (Gypsum) at 250kg per hectare as a top dressing just prior to flowering will help with pod set. If a previous crops residue has been ploughed or disced in, then extra Nitrogen will be needed to help composting or breaking down of the material. Discuss this with your Agronomist regarding rates. Beans are not capable of satisfying all their Nitrogen requirements through Nitrogen fixation hence the need for a basal fertilizer with good levels of N.

Weed Problems This is very important in growing a dry bean crop. Bean plants compete poorly with weeds as they are low growing and do not overshadow weeds. Weeds that are not controlled will interfere with the harvesting and threshing of the crop.

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Sugar Bean Spray Guide

S

Stage

Pre-Plant

Days:

-7

|

n

e

B

Pest Problems

u g a r a P a g e

Bean Stem Maggot 10 2

Planting to Emergence 0-10

First Flowers

Vegetative

10-40

30-40 30-40

 Apron Star Seed Dress

Beetles

Karate Zeon

Cutworms

Karate Zeon

Leafminer

Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo

Podworm & Caterpillars

 Ampligo / Match / Karate Zeon/ Proclaim Proclaim

Aphids & Whitefly

 Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Chess

Disease Problems Seed/Soil Disease

 Apron Star Seed Dress

Bacterial Complex

 Amistar Top / Score

Anthracnose

Bravo / Amistar Top

Rust

Weed Problems Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals Pre-emergence: grasses

 Amistar Top/Bra vo / Cop per Oxy

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must must do own tests for crop damage. Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: Post-emerge nce: grasses Pre-emergence: grasses + Broadleaf

Post-emergence: Nutgrass

 

 

Pod Development & First Picking 40-60

Fusilade

Bateleur Gold

Servian

Forte

Peak Picking

+65

Tunnel Tomato Production & Spray Guide

Tunnel / Greenhouse Tomato | Page 103

 

Tunnel / Greenhouse Tomato Production Guide “Integrated Crop Solution''

Varieties This first step in tomato production is generally determined by market requirements, i.e. size, truss, shelf life and marketers will need to be consulted before you make your decision.

 Any variety chosen should ideally ideally be an indeterminate type which means the plants will continue continue growing indefinitely as long as pests and diseases are kept to a minimum and they have an adequate nutrient supply. The bush or determinate type of tomatoes, traditionally grown outdoors, are not recommended for growing in tunnels. Indeterminate varieties can last up to 8 months in a greenhouse. Seed Co recommends long shelf life tomatoes because they reduce losses incurred by growers, supermarkets, hawkers, wholesalers etc. Long shelf tomatoes are a must for most populations. Seed Co indeterminate tomato hybrids Oasis, Alambra  and Candela meet the yield and quality requirements of the Zimbabwean market.

Seedlings Seedlings used for transplanting in tunnels must be strong, healthy and free from virus and diseases. Seed planted during winter months will take a minimum of 8 weeks before transplanting and those in summer months will take 5-6 weeks before they are ready for transplanting. Timing of planting is determined by when the highest prices are achieved on the fresh market. (In general, it takes 10-12 weeks from transplanting to first harvest). As soon as seedlings are 12-15cm tall they are ready for transplanting. There are several different options that may be used such as pine shavings (NOT sawdust or pine bark). The most commonly used growing media is pine bark. It is a good inert media that provides adequate aeration and due to the t he composting process is free of diseases. Pre-enrichment of pine bark. Per one m3 of 12mm pine bark (15 x 66-liter bags add the following: 1 kg gypsum 0,88kg single super phosphate 2 kg calcitic lime

Tunnel / Greenhouse Tomato | Page 104

 

Containers Tomatoes may be grown in a variety of different containers. The ones most popular are the black grow bags (10-15 liter) and sausages.

Order them without holes and then perforate at 1.5 ” above the ground. This acts as a reservoir in case of electricity interruptions or other delays in irrigation. This is a tube of black plastic of 150200 micron thick and diameter of 37cm. Cut into 2,1m lengths and tie at one end. Pine bark must be well compacted into the bag before tying the other end and cutting the planting holes. Seedling holes cut every 40cm apart using a jam tin will give 5 plants/sausage. Drainage holes must be placed 1 1⁄2” from the ground using a pencil or wire. These holes should only be inserted on one

side of the sausage which then drains into a furrow. This prevents the pathways becoming flooded and reduces the clean-up operation required to mop up stagnant water.

Planting The growing media should be well irrigated with stage 1 nutrient solution prior to planting in the bags. The twine should be planted under the seedlings where the roots will soon anchor it down. This is not necessary in the case of the sausages where twine can be tied around the bag. Plant spacing in row is 40cm with 60cm between double rows. The pathway between double rows varies between 1,3  –  1,6m. In an 8m wide greenhouse the maximum number of rows is 8 (4 double rows).

Fertilizer Growing tomatoes in a soilless media requires greater management than those grown in soil. There is very little margin for error as there is no clay portion to act as a buffer or store for residual nutrients. An essential management tool is an EC meter which gives the grower an indication of fertilizer going into the bag and a measure of how much is coming out in the leachate. Every time water is applied it must contain fertilizer. Before giving a fertilizer recommendation it is important that the irrigation water is analyzed. A good laboratory to use is Analytical Laboratories 11A Downing Road, Greendale, Harare. Fertilization is split into 2 stages: 1. Stage 1: Planting to 3

rd

 flowering

truss. Target level (ppm)

Bicarb

N

P

61

160

20 5

K 20

100

270

Ca

 Mg + Micronutrients

130

60

Tunnel / greenhouse Tomato | Page 105

 

2. Stage 2: Third flowering truss onwards. (ppm) Bicarb

N

P

20 5

K 20

Ca

 Mg + Micronutrients Micronutri ents

Target level 61

160

90

320

130

65

Regular sprays of calcium nitrate @ 10g per liter to prevent blossom end rot will also be necessary. These solutions can be made up from water soluble products obtainable from horticultural outlets. The micronutrients are supplied in a pre-mixed state called Omnispoor @ 20g/1000 liters. Concentrated stock solutions must be made up in separate tanks as calcium cannot be mixed with phosphates and sulphates.

Electrical Conductivity (EC) The EC of the fertigation solution must be checked regularly in order to monitor the fertilizer going onto the plants is correct and that there has not been a mistake in making up of stock solutions. When the leachate EC is 0,2 of a unit higher than fertigation EC, then the fertilizer must be reduced by 20%. If the leachate EC is 0,2 lower than the fertilizer must be increased by 20%.

Irrigation There are numerous irrigation designs that may be used but the only container that lends itself to using drip tape is the sausage. The system must be able to give the plants 2,5 –3 liters per day at maximum production in summer. Young plants will use 300-500mls per day. This is usually applied in two applications. As the demand for water increases so the number of applications per day will also increase. Water usage by the plants is monitored by collecting the t he amount of leachate draining from the bag. The minimum quantity of leachate should be 10% of the water given to the plant. A maximum of 20% emittance is required to prevent loss of expensive fertilizer, e.g. if 500mls is applied to each plant then the quantity of leachate l eachate should be 50-100 mls.

Sanitation This is vitally important in order to maintain a healthy crop for a long period of time. Simple measures may be put in place to prevent devastation of a crop by virus and diseases. A selection of different chemicals may be used such as Sodium Hypochlorite, Sporekill and Terminator. Personnel from Cernol Chemicals give good advice on rates and selection of chemicals.

Tunnel / greenhouse Tomato | Page 106

 

Removal of leaves/fruit It is important to remove leaves at the bottom of the plant as they interrupt the flow of air and are a source of infection by Botrytis. The removals should be done on a fortnightly basis and

not more than 2 leaves at a time to be removed. When the first cluster shows signs of ripening, the leaves may be removed right up to the cluster. There should always be 1,5m of healthy, functioning leaves on the plant. Some varieties of tomatoes may produce many flowers per truss. It is important to prune small fruit to maintain size and quality of the remaining tomatoes. In truss tomatoes such as Ikram, normally fruit are pruned to 6 tomatoes per truss. tru ss.

Pollination Bee activity in tunnels is restricted so mechanical pollination is required. This can easily be done twice a day by tapping the overhead wire along its length. It ’s important not to try and pollinate too early in the morning as pollination does not readily occur below 20° C.

Picking and Post-Harvest Handling Tomatoes should be picked when the bottom tip of the fruit have turned orange pink. The fruit will then turn light red in 2-3 days. In summer, picking will be 2 or 3 times a week but only once a week in winter. Picking should be done in the cool of the day and the tomatoes then stored at cool temperatures. Temperatures below 7oC can result in poor fruit quality with a short shelf life.

Tunnel / Greenhouse Tomato | Page 107

 

 

l

e

n

n

u

T

Greenhouse Tomatoes Guide Stage Days:

e

Pest Problems e

s

u

o

h

n

re

G

/

Nematodes

Nursery

Transplanting

0-35

28-36

Solvigo

Vegetative 30-60

First Flowers 60-65

First Fruits 65-70

Fruiting 70-125

T

Soil Pests & Aphids |

to

m

o

Cutworms

a P a g e

 Actara Soil Drench / Solvigo

Karate Zeon

Leafminer 1

Trigard / Dynamec

0 8

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo / Curacron

Fruitworm & Caterpillars

 Ampligo / Match / Karate Karate Zeon / Proclaim

Aphids & Whitefly  Actara Soil Drench

 Actara / Ampligo / Polo/Polo

Disease Pr oblems oblems Damping off

 Apron Star Seed Dress Dress

Bacterial Complex

Bion / Copper Oxychloride

Early Blight

Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight

Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold

Leaf spots; Powdery  Amistar Top

Mildew Virus Complex

 Actara Soil Drench / Dip Dip

Weed Problems Problems Before planting - post emergence perennials Before planting - post emergence annuals Pre-emergence: grasses

Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must must do own tests tests for for crop damage. Touchdown

Gramoxone / Touchdown

Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses Post-emergence: grasses

Fusllade Forte

Codal Gold

& broadleaf

 

 

Watermelon Production & Spray Guide