Use of Herbs in Skin Hair and Health Care Products...
The Aromantic Guide to the use of ...
Herbs in Skin, Hair and Health Care products
Kolbjorn Borseth
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
The Aromantic Guide to the use of ...
in Skin, Hair and Health Care products Kolbjorn Borseth
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Precaution The information published here is not intended as a substitute for personal medical advice. Before making any decision regarding your health, please consult a physician, medical herbalist or other qualified health care practitioner. Pregnant women, the elderly or those with difficult medical conditions should be particularly careful when taking herbs internally or applying them externally. It’s a good idea to let your GP know that you are considering the use of herbs as some herbs may cross-react with some of the conventional drugs you are taking. Report any side effects to your health care practitioner.
Disclaimer This information is provided for our customers and is obtained from a variety of sources, including: the research, knowledge and experience of Kolbjorn Borseth; Lilly Johansson; books; and the Internet. While we have obviously done our utmost to provide correct information, there may be errors. USA: These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form including digital reproduction without the prior written consent of the Publisher. Published by Aromantic Ltd 17 Tytler Street, Forres, Moray, IV36 1EL, Scotland. Tel: (01309) 696900 Fax: (01309) 696911 E-mail:
[email protected] Website: www.aromantic.co.uk © Copyright 2006 - Aromantic ISBN No: 978-0-9554323-0-9 2
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Welcome… Welcome to the revised, updated and much expanded ‘Aromantic’s Guide to the use of Herbs as in Skin, Hair and Health Care products. Formerly known as Aromantic’s Education Pack 3, this updated Guide will help you to maximise the use of 37 common herbs in the making of your own Natural Skin, Hair and Body Care products. It is an excellent addition to the other Aromantic Guides as it again helps you to take your health and beauty into your hands. While I recommend that you attend an Aromantic education course or consult other Aromantic Guides or Recipe Brochures to gain the necessary know-how, this Guide contains the basic information and general methods you need to make many fantastic products. For our American readers, we have included Metric-US conversion tables. The measurement that most of our American customers have trouble with is ‘ml’, which stands for millilitre. I understand that most measuring jugs in America have ml on one side and oz (fluid ounces) on the other side. Also we refer to ‘g’ for grams. Buying a sensitive gram scale that can detect 1g may prove to be very helpful to all of our readers and customers, wherever you may live. I hope you will find this Guide useful in making your own professional, natural products with the real healing benefits that herbs can offer, whether you’re making gifts for friends or for selling to your clients. Enjoy the adventure.
Acknowledgements... I would like to thank the people who made this book possible. My great Swedish mentor, Lilly Johansson, who taught me so much about complementary health and natural healing methods. Many of the Compress Recipes in this book I owe to Lilly’s knowledge. Over 30,000 patients attended Lilly’s hospital, Follingegaarden for 30 years, from the mid-1960s. I wish to thank Susan Kemp, the researcher, editor, proofreader and my ‘ghost writer’ – another job done with your usual high standards. Of course, even the most interesting information can be boring if not presented correctly. Stewart Noble, who has worked closely with me for many years, has done great justice to the information with his beautiful and clear design work. Last but not least William Youssi, who, in his lovely drawings, captures the spirit of the stars of the book itself, the plants. Thank you all for your hard work and dedication. Kolbjorn Borseth, Founder of Aromantic
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Contents... Welcome and Acknowledgements… Herbal medicine traditions… Constituents of herbs… The skin, hair and nails… How to prepare your Herbs for use in Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products… How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your recipes… Tinctures… Herbal CO2 Extracts… Hydrolates… Macerated Herb Oils… Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty… Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems… Skin Toners… Compresses, Poultices and Plasters… Poultices… Gels and Creams… Ointments, Shampoos, Conditioners, Toothpastes, Deodorants and Insect Repellents… A description of Herbs and their application… Aloe Arnica Birch Chamomile Chickweed Cleavers Comfrey Coltsfoot Cornflower Dandelion Echinacea Elderflower Eyebright Ginkgo Ginseng Horse Chestnut Horseradish Horsetail Hyssop Lady’s Mantle Lavender Lemon Balm Marigold Myrrh Nettle, Stinging Orris Root Peppermint Plantain Rose Rosemary Sage St. Johns Wort Thyme Tormentilla Root Wild Pansy Witch Hazel Yarrow Glossary… Metric US Conversion Tables… Bibliography… Biographies and List of Suppliers… 4
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The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Herbal medicine traditions... Herbalism is the oldest form of medicine and extends right back to the earliest history of mankind. All cultures have long folk medicine traditions that include the use of herbs and plants. Even in ancient cultures, people methodically collected information on herbs and developed welldefined herbal pharmacopoeias. The ancient Egyptian priests, who were the physicians in that culture and time, prescribed many remedies used today, such as Olive Oil, Myrrh and Juniper Berries. The first European botanical author in our recorded history was probably the Greek, Theophrastos Eresios, who lived from about 370BC - 285BC. Many other famous European authors followed, such as Galen, Paracelsus, Gerard, and Culpeper, to name a few. Well into the 20th century, and still today, much of the pharmacopoeia of scientific medicine was derived from the herbal lore of native peoples. Many drugs commonly used today are of herbal origin. Indeed, about one-quarter of the prescription drugs dispensed by community pharmacies in the United States contain at least one active ingredient derived from plant material. So, the roots of herbalism lie in the ancient past and still play an essential role in our healing traditions and will continue to do so on our journey into the future.
Constituents of herbs... The active constituents of herbs are those substances, which perform a specific therapeutic function. Herbs are very chemically complex and they contain thousands of biologically active compounds over and above their everyday components and metabolites, which are called primary compounds. The primary compounds, such as carbohydrates, lipids, nucleotides and peptides are shared by all living organisms and are central to life processes. The secondary compounds are derived from primary compounds, but are not central to metabolism, hence their name. These chemical constituents of plants, often called phytochemicals, act in synergy, creating a greater therapeutic power together than if on their own. This synergy also tends to counteract the possible side effects of an individual component. Where there are several active ingredients, a herb may be used for different purposes. St John's Wort, for instance, enhances mood and is also anti-inflammatory and antiviral. Numerous studies indicate that phytochemicals in herbs and spices may be accountable for their health effects. Different herbs each contain a wide variety of active phytochemicals and constituents. The chemically distinct, but often overlapping, classes of constituents are mainly: Terpenoids – such as monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes, triterpenes, tetraterpenes, saponins, iridoids, carotenoids and steroids. Phenolic Acids – such as tannins, gallic acid, ellagic acids, capsaicin, rosmarinic acid, quinones, salicylates and lignins. Glycosides – such as flavonoids, glucosinolates and cyanogens. Phytosterols – such as beta-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, brassicasterol, delta-7stigmasterol and delta-7-avenasterol. Alkaloids – such as caffeine, theobromine, theophylline. -5-
Polysaccharides – such as gums and mucilages. Peptides – combinations of amino acids. Peptides combine to make proteins, including antigens. Also of interest are Essential Oils, Resins, Vitamins, Minerals, Acids, Antibiotics and Heterosides, which often contain several of the above constituent classes. Despite the widespread use of medicinal herbs, much research is still required to identify the active constituents and understand their mode of action but the medical and folk herbalist traditions from around the world have gone through a lot of trial and error to discover the wellaccepted benefits of herbs we know about today.
More about some of the constituents found in herbs... Alkaloids Usually derivatives of amino acids, an alkaloid is a nitrogenous organic molecule that has a pharmacological effect on humans and other animals. The name derives from the word alkaline; originally, the term was used to describe any nitrogen-containing base (an amine in modern terms). Alkaloids are found as secondary metabolites in plants (e.g. in potatoes and tomatoes), animals (e.g. in shellfish) and fungi, and can be extracted from their sources by treatment with acids (usually hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid, though organic acids such as maleic acid and citric acid are sometimes used). Even though many alkaloids are poisonous (such as strychnine or coniine), some are used in medicine as analgesics (pain relievers) or anaesthetics, as sedatives, vasoconstrictors and as antispasmodics particularly morphine and codeine. Other well-known alkaloids are morphine, cocaine, strychnine, quinine, codeine, solanine, and of course, nicotine. Most alkaloids have a very bitter taste and act primarily on the central nervous system. Alkaloids are approximately 2/3 fat-soluble and are readily absorbed by the body through the mucous membranes and also partly through healthy skin. Herbs with a high alkaloid content should not be used in Skin Care products. Bitter Principle Herbs that taste bitter act as stimulating tonics for the digestive system. Bitter principle is a group of chemicals that have a severely bitter taste. Bitter tasting compounds cause a reflex in the taste buds which stimulates the secretion of saliva, digestive juices and secretions from the gall bladder and also to stimulate the liver, helping hepatic elimination. Bitter herbs offer excellent health benefits and should be taken for that reason every day as a tonic. The taking of bitter herbs as a daily tonic is not as popular as it once was, leading to a craving for sweet tasting foods. Examples of herbs with a high bitter principle are Devil’s Claw, Hops, Burdock, Dandelion, etc. and are easily dissolved in warm water. Herbs with a high Bitter principle content should not be used in Skin Care products. Glycosides Consist of a sweet and non-sweet component. The non-sweet component determines the glycoside's pharmacological properties. Some of the better known glycosides include cardiac glycoside found in foxglove and lily of the valley and flavonoid glycoside found in buckwheat. Glycosides are normally not absorbed by the skin. They are generally either water or alcohol soluble. 6
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Saponins are glycosides with a distinctive foaming characteristic, which are particularly useful in Skin and Hair Care products. Saponins are natural surfactants, or detergents, found in many plants, and so are used in Shampoos, as well as Toothpastes, Mouth Washes and Gargles. Saponins are also used as foaming agents in drinks such as root beer (popular in America), in improving the head in beer, etc. They are also used in fire extinguishers as a foam producer and in photographic emulsions. They can be used in industry and mining for activities such as ore separation. They reduce the surface tension in a water solution and have cleansing, antifungal, antibacterial, emollient and emulsifying properties, which are important properties for cosmetic applications. They can be used to increase reabsorption of substances (e.g. medicines and minerals) in the mucous membranes and partially in the skin. Saponins are antiseptic and dissolve carbohydrates and scabs. They help other glycosides to dissolve in water and are themselves water soluble. Generally they are not absorbed by the skin when it is unbroken. Saponins are found in Birch Leaves, Cowslip, Wild Pansy, Horsetail, Yucca, Soapbark and Soapwort. To extract saponins from herbs and roots they must be boiled for 15-20 minutes. Carbohydrates These are fructooligosaccharides (FOS), immunomodulating polysaccharides, gums, mucilages, dietary fibres, cellulose, pectin, & organic acids. When combined with water, carbohydrates form viscous compounds producing a variety of runny to more solid Gels. They can be used externally for infections and inflammations and internally in the mouth, throat, stomach and digestive tract where they coat the skin or mucous membranes with a protective film or barrier against mechanical or chemical damage. They relieve pain, are cooling and emollient (softening). They are easily dissolved in water. Some are used as Emulsifiers and Thickening Agents. Some examples of herbs with a high carbohydrate content are: Coltsfoot, Lime Blossom, Linseed, Agar-agar, Carrageen, Gum Tragacanth, Gum Arabic, Guar Gum, etc. Tannins A group of chemical compounds that occur naturally in some herbs, teas, fruits, such as red grapes, and in tree bark and wood – part of a larger group of substances called phenolics. The most important common property of tannins is that they form insoluble bonds with proteins. They bind (chelate) albumen, a protein which is found in both the skin and mucus membranes, forming a layer of protection against infection and irritation. This in turn prevents infecting organisms from invading the body, and helps to hasten the healing process. They increase the affected tissue's ability to resist infections and reduce its vulnerability to chemical or mechanical damage. They also reduce redness and swelling in cases of inflammation. Tannins are antiseptic because they inhibit bacterial growth. They reduce sensitivity in the skin and mucous membranes and therefore alleviate pain. This shuts out bacteria and hastens the healing of sores and inflamed mucous membranes and skin. Used in its pure form, at full strength, it tans leather. In lower concentrations in plants, and in their natural context together with other substances such as sugars, starches and other viscous substances, tannins normally have a mild and superficially astringent effect on the skin and mucous membranes. Their astringent and antiseptic properties make them ideal for sore throat Gargles, diarrhoea, Wound Compresses, weepy rashes, and more. Tannins also offer antioxidant protection. Some herbs high in tannins are Witch Hazel, White Oak Bark, Tormentilla, Plantain and Red Raspberry, Condurango, Willow, Cinnamon, Queen of the Meadow, and black or green tea.
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Some examples of herbs high in tannins in more detail: Oak Bark: highly astringent and used for haemorrhoids and, internally, for diarrhoea. Witch Hazel: mildly astringent, used for Skin Toners, skin infections and haemorrhoid preparations. Tormentilla Root: used in Mouth Washes and Gargles and in Toothpaste for bleeding and inflammation of the gums. Blueberries: used internally for diarrhoea (needs to be boiled first). There are also smaller quantities of tannins in St. John's Wort, Peppermint and Sage. The most common tannins found in e.g. Oak Bark and Witch Hazel are water soluble. Others are more difficult to dissolve. Tannins are not usually absorbed through the skin, but where there are large open sores or burns they can be absorbed in quantities which can damage the liver, kidneys and blood circulation. Herbs containing tannins are used mainly for skin infections (acne), small sores, burns and chilblains, to staunch bleeding (e.g. in haemorrhoids), for bleeding gums, inflammation in the mouth and throat, and for weeping eczema. Herbs high in tannins should not be used for extensive burns. Other constituents Apart from those already mentioned, there are other substances found in herbs which are of lesser pharmaceutical importance. These are substances which can have a certain application or which can negatively affect a Herbal Extract or finished product, e.g. certain pigments which produce greys or lighter or darker green pigmentation in, for example, Shampoos or Skin Creams. One example is the way too much Nettle in a Shampoo will produce a greyish-green colour. Fats and Waxes Fats are esters which occur between fatty acids and the alcohol Glycerine. Waxes are esters which occur between fatty acids and high molecular weight alcohols such as cetyl and myristyl alcohols. Fats and Waxes are alcohol soluble (96%) and partially soluble in other Fats and Oils. They are not water soluble but will melt in warm water. Not all of the components will dissolve and those that do, will float on the surface of the water. Resins and Balsams Resin is usually a yellowish brown plant secretion of vegetable origin. Resins are soluble in Ether, Alcohol, and Essential Oils, but not in water. Resins exude from trees along with Essential Oils, Gums, etc, and are found in a liquid or semi-liquid state. They are composed of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and are supposed to be formed by the oxidation of the Essential Oils. When mixed with Gum they form Gum Resins. A Balsam is a solution of Resin in Essential Oil with a syrupy consistency. When a Balsam is distilled in most cases a Resin and Essential Oil are produced (e.g. Gum Benzoin and Benzoin). Balsams are alcohol soluble (96%), partially soluble in oil but difficult to dissolve in water. Types of Balsam include Balsam Peru, Balsam Tolu and Galbanum Oil. Some of the Essential Oils produced from Balsams include Myrrh, Frankincense and Benzoin.
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The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Pigments Pigments can be fat soluble, e.g. carotenoids, which are natural fat-soluble pigments found in certain plants. Carotenoids, another name for carotenes, provide the bright red, orange, or yellow coloration of many vegetables, serve as antioxidants, and can be a source for Vitamin A activity. Another fat-soluble pigment is xanthophyll, a yellow or orange pigment in plants that is responsible for the production of carbohydrates by photosynthesis and when found in to be found in certain plants in concentrations which produce certain pharmaceutical effects, as in Marigold (Calendula). Other pigments are water soluble, e.g. chlorophyll, which in normal Herbal Extracts has barely any effect on the skin. Salicylic Acid A glycoside, salicylic acid is a mild acid that works as a keratolytic agent i.e. it encourages the sloughing of dead skin cells. It stimulates the peeling of the top layer of skin and the opening of plugged follicles, which helps re-establish the normal skin-cell replacement cycle. For milder acne, salicylic acid helps unclog pores to resolve and prevent lesions. Herbal Extracts containing salicylic acid used topically in the right dosages have a pain-relieving, antibacterial effect. Plants containing salicylic acid are mostly used internally for inflammations and externally in liniments for rheumatic aches and muscle pain. The highest concentration of salicylic acid is to be found in Wintergreen. Smaller quantities are found in plants like Meadowsweet and Willow Bark in the form of phenol glycosides which become converted into salicylic acid in the body. Some people are very sensitive to salicylics and can react strongly even to small doses. Minerals All plants contain different quantities of minerals. These can be extracted into water, for example the silica from Horsetail and the iron from Stinging Nettles. Due to the size of their molecules, Minerals are not always absorbed by unbroken skin. They can have a superficial, slight moisturebinding effect and certain minerals such as silica can soothe itchiness. Vitamins Most of the B vitamins are water soluble. Vitamin C is water soluble but is altered when boiled. Water-soluble vitamins do not penetrate very far into the skin. They can have a certain moisturebinding effect. A and E vitamins are fat soluble and cannot be dissolved in water. In the quantities in which they are to be found in the most common herbs, vitamins have hardly any effects on the skin. The fat-soluble vitamins are very easily absorbed by the skin. Proteins Can have a certain moisture-binding effect on the skin. They do not penetrate the skin. Enzymes Become inert at temperatures between 50-70 ºC. They become altered when boiled. Hormones Most hormones are water soluble and tolerate heat. Other hormones such as oestrogen, e.g. in Hops, are fat soluble and are best extracted into oil or alcohol. Fat-soluble hormones are easily absorbed by the skin. -9-
The Skin… The skin is a very important organ from the therapeutic and health and beauty standpoint. The skin has two coats: Epidermis – the outer layer of skin you can actually see. This layer consists of stratified epithelium in two sub-layers: the outer layer of dead keratinised cells; and the inner layer, which is composed of epidermal living cells, gradually growing outwards to form keratin. This inner layer of the epidermis also contains melanocytes, which are responsible for producing the pigment, which gives rise to the colour of your skin. Dermis – the tough elastic layer that lies underneath the epidermis. Also known as the true skin, it consists of an upper and lower dermis. Composed entirely of living cells, it consists of bundles of tough elastin and collagen fibres which give your skin its elasticity, firmness and strength. The dermis is also richly supplied with blood vessels and nerves, which feed vital nutrients to feed the outer skin layer as well as regulating and facilitating body temperature. The most important function of the dermis is respiration. The dermis also determines the tone of the skin. The Lower Dermis is the innermost layer of the skin and where the various glands such as the oil (sebum) and sweat glands originate. From here, they rise to the surface of the skin to eliminate waste matter and also regulate temperature. The lower dermis also acts as a cushion for the rest of the skin and contains the finely distributed muscles of the skin, which regulate body temperature. Beneath these two coats lies a layer of fat cells, the Subcutaneous Layer. The skin has a slightly acidic coating of oil at the surface. This coating protects the skin against some bacteria. Below the surface is a complex of sweat and oil glands, hair follicles, blood vessels, nerves, and muscle tissue. These are held together by tough connective tissue called collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin are very important in determining the health of the skin. The relative health of the collagen determines the contour of the skin, how wrinkled and lined it is. Healthy collagen is often called soluble collagen, because it can absorb and hold moisture. The problem of skin aging is not considered a medical problem. Since dermatology is restricted to medical treatment in cases of skin diseases, cosmetics deal more with the maintenance and improvement of skin condition.
The Hair... The hair consists of modified eptihelium, growing from hair follicles in the skin. At the base of the follicle, epithelial cells form the root, maintaining growth of hair. The sebaceous glands are small saccular glands attached to the hair in the dermis. They secrete an oily substance called sebum, which serves to lubricate the skin.
The Nails... The nails are hard plates of modified epithelium, protecting the ends of fingers and toes. They grow from the roots at the bases of the nails. Note: Epithelium is a tissue composed of a layer of cells and can be found lining internal (e.g. endothelium, which lines the inside of blood vessels) or external (e.g. skin) free surfaces of the body. Functions of epithelial cells include secretion, absorption and protection. 10
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
How to prepare your Herbs for use in Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products... In this Guide you may find that I ask you to add a ‘Herbal Infusion’, a ‘Herbal Decoction’, or ‘CO2 Extract’ of a certain herb as one of the ingredients in your products such as Shampoos, Creams, Skin Toners, Pet Care products, Ointments, Hair Treatments, Toothpastes, etc. In addition, you may be asked to make a ‘Poultice’ or a ‘Compress’. Below you will find definitions of these terms and, if appropriate, how to prepare them. Infusions An Infusion is made like a tea. If using a Herbal Infusion instead of boiling water in your Recipe, make it as follows: Allow 2-3g dried herbs per 100ml water (please note that sometimes the amount of dried herb used will vary according to strength needed). Pour boiling water over the herbs. Cover and allow to stand for 10-20 minutes. Strain and use according to the Method in the Recipe. Decoctions When using Horsetail, or the tougher parts of a plant like the roots, seeds, berries or the bark of a plant, make a Decoction rather than an Infusion. Making a Decoction involves boiling the herbs. Put around 2-3g or more of the dried, or 20-30g of the fresh, herb parts into 100ml of water and cover the saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and continue to boil for about twenty minutes. You may need to add a bit more water if steam escapes. Steep and strain the mixture and use according to the Method in the Recipe. When making Decoctions and Infusions do not use an aluminium pan – use a stainless steel, glass, ceramic or enamel (make sure it’s not chipped, though) pan.
How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your Recipes... You can replace the water content in your Cream, Lotion, Foam Bath, Gel, Shampoo, and Conditioner Recipes with a Herbal Decoction or Infusion. Infusions and Decoctions are usually added to the Recipe at the Water Stage of making Creams and Lotions. Don’t use Infusions or Decoctions in Ointment Recipes – use the Tincture and/or Essential Oil and CO2 Extract instead. Use the Infusion or Decoction as it is, or combined with other ingredients, for Wound Washes, Mouth Washes, Eye Baths or Washes, Compresses, and in Whole Body Baths. See individual herb listings for any variations, as well as for the strength of Infusions and Decoctions. , Higher amounts of Preservatives are needed when using Herbal Infusions & Decoctions You need to double the amount of Preservative in your product when you substitute Herbal Infusions for Boiling Spring Water in Recipes that contain Boiling Spring Water. Because natural herbs are not radiated, they naturally carry bacteria and fungi. For this reason, use 0.8% of Parabens, or 1.2g of Preservative K, if using a Herbal Infusion or Decoction in your products. Please note that Sodium benzoate is an inappropriate Preservative to use in products that contain Herbal Infusions and Decoctions as you would have to use a very large amount of it for it to work effectively. , Do not double the amounts of Preservatives found in this Guide as they have already been adjusted!
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Tinctures... A Tincture is an extraction of a fresh or dried herb using alcohol. The alcohol serves two purposes: preservation and extraction of active, healing ingredients in the herb. When using these in your Recipes, you do not have to make an Infusion or Decoction, just follow the instructions on the Recipe for how much to add and when. You can make Tinctures using any part of the plant that is appropriate for your use e.g. roots, leaves, flowers, etc. Simply chop up the herb or part of herb and pack it in a jar half filled with the strongest vodka you can buy. Use 80-100g fresh herbs, or 8-10g dried herbs to 150ml alcohol. Seal the jar and leave it in on a sunny windowsill for 2-3 days. Then store in a dark place at room temperature for 2-3 weeks, shaking it every day. Strain through muslin cloth and store in a dark bottle. The Tincture will keep for 2-3 years. Of course, you don’t have to make your own Tinctures; they are available to buy from health food shops, herbalists and other suppliers such as Aromantic. (See list at the end of the book.) , When making a Tincture it is important to make sure that the alcohol totally covers the herbs. Add more alcohol if necessary. How to use Tinctures in your Recipes You can replace some of the water in your Cream, Lotion, Gel, Foam Bath, Shampoo and Conditioner Recipes with up to 10% of a Tincture. Use up to 10% in Ointments, Wound Washes, Mouth Washes, about 5% Compresses and 1-2% in Eye Baths/Washes. For Whole Body Baths, use about 15ml for the whole bath. Note: Some Mouth Wash Recipes require more than 10% of the Tincture. See individual herb listings for any variations.
Herbal CO2 Extracts... Not all of our ‘Herbal’ CO2 Extracts are herbs, some are plants, so should rightly be called Botanical CO2 Extracts. Whatever we call them, they have healing and beneficial properties that make them ideal for making powerful, effective and healing Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products. In the cosmetic field, CO2 Extracts are used as bioactive components in Creams, Skin Oils, Body Milks and Lotions, Before and After Sun products, etc. Supercritical CO2 fluid extraction is an established process for the decaffeination of tea and coffee, as well as for hop ingredients, of perfumery and aromatherapy. Botanical CO2 Extracts are becoming more and more popular. The intention is to eliminate harmful organic solvents used in the past for the production of oil-loving Botanical Extracts, to avoid environmental pollution and to have a high grade extract composition very close to the natural raw material. They are free of any solvent residues and diluting agents and are composed almost exclusively of the raw material's ingredients without any dilution and accordingly can be used in a fairly low dosage. This low dosage means that a high quality, active cosmetic product can be created at a reduced cost. For more information about the Botanical CO2 Extracts please see Aromantic’s Education Pack 2. How to use Botanical CO2 Extracts in your products Add 1-3% to your products. If using more than one CO2 Extract, the total percentage used in your product doesn’t need to exceed 6%. CO2 Extracts can be added even when you have already used Infusions, Decoctions or Tinctures to your product. They will greatly enhance the benefits of the product. 12
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Hydrolates... Herbal and Floral Waters, also known as Hydrosols or Hydrolates, are by-products of the process of making Essential Oils. During that process, the herbs and flowers are distilled with Spring Water. The water is heated and presses itself through the plants as vapour, which collects the Essential Oils and other ingredients present. The Essential Oils - which float on the surface of the water - are removed, leaving the Herbal or Floral Water, which contains a small quantity of Essential Oil and other water-soluble agents from the plant. Nothing else, e.g. Preservative, is added. , Some companies add up to 10% alcohol to preserve the Hydrolate. How to use Hydrolates in your products Hydrolates can sometimes be used as they are, as Skin Toners, Facial Cleansers, Hair Rinses, for Aromatic Baths, Baby Baths, on Compresses or in Sprays for freshening up the skin. They can also be used to replace, or partially replace, water in various Skin Care products along with other ingredients, in e.g. Skin Toners, Facial Cleansers, Face Masks, Creams, Lotions or Shampoos. , Some Hydrolates are too strong to use undiluted – please follow the Recipes.
Macerated Herb Oils... Dried or fresh plant material (fresh plants are best because volatile oils are still intact) is macerated by being steeped in a Vegetable Oil and agitated (shaken vigorously) daily for anything from several days to 6 weeks. An effective method is to leave the jar or bottle in the sun for 3-4 days and then storing it in the dark for the rest of the maceration period. Plant material is then removed by filtering the Oil, leaving the Oil with some of the therapeutic constituents and properties of the plant material, including traces of Essential Oils, and even the colour of the plant material. Examples of Macerated Oils commonly available are: St. John's Wort Oil; Carrot Oil; Marigold Oil; Arnica Oil; Aloe Vera Oil; Comfrey Oil; Chamomile Oil; and others. Macerated Oils should not be confused with Essential Oils. Most Macerated Oils contain extracts of these plants in a Vegetable Oil base such as Sunflower, Sesame, Olive, Peanut or Soy Oil. None of these plants contain Essential Oils in any significant quantities when prepared this way, which their price should reflect. In the case of St. John's Wort, Chamomile, Marigold and Arnica the flowers are steeped in Oil and the fat-soluble ingredients 'migrate' from the plant to the Oil. In Carrot Oil, various extracts from the Carrot are mixed with a Base Oil. , It is very important to make sure that the Vegetable Oil is covering all of the parts of the fresh or dried herbs you are using to make the Macerated Oil.
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Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty... Herbal Teas – Internal use Make an Infusion or Decoction and drink when cool enough to do so. , If unsure whether to take any herb, please consult your doctor or find a qualified medical herbalist in your area. There are many herbs that are not suitable for use during pregnancy, especially herbs that are abortifacients, emmenagogues and strong laxatives. Please make sure that you check with an appropriate authoritative guide or consult a medical herbalist. As a general guideline, don’t take the same herb internally for more than 2 weeks in a row. You can alternate it with another herb. Herbal Baths – Whole Body, Foot and Hand Method 1 - The simplest way is to make a strong Infusion or Decoction of herbs and allow it to stand for 20-30 minutes. Once strained, this can be added to the bath water or water you’re using for your Foot or Hand Bath. Method 2 - You can also place the herbs in the bath. This method is preferable for the use of such herbs as Plantain and Lady's Mantle for the treatment of eczema and itchiness. When placing the herbs directly into the bath, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the herbs, leave for 10 minutes, before adjusting the temperature to allow the person to enter the bath. The person should stay in the bath for at least 20 minutes, adding more hot water if necessary in order to keep the water as hot as possible. The person should not rinse or towel-dry the body and should allow the body to air-dry instead. Method 3 - Place fresh or dried herbs in a muslin bag, tie the bag up with string and place in the bath. As in the above example, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the bag, wait ten minutes and then follow the same procedure as above. Method 4 - To use herbs in your Foam Bath Recipes, make a strong Infusion or Decoction of the herbs and strain them. Quantities of herbs to Use in Herbal Baths For a Whole Body Bath use approximately 50-100g of dried herbs or 500-1000g fresh herbs. For a Foot or Hand Bath use 15-20g of dried herbs or 150-200g of fresh herbs. If using Method 1 above to make an Infusion or a Decoction, then use: 1 litre of water per 15-20g of dried herbs 2-3 litres water per 150-200g of fresh herbs 3 litres of water per 40-50g of dried herbs 6-7 litres water per 400-500g fresh herb After letting it stand, you would strain it and add the resulting Infusion or Decoction to the Bath. Tips x x
You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers or leaves or roots you are using. Please follow instructions for exact amount listed under each herb in this Guide.
14
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Base Recipe for Foam Baths (This Recipe makes approximately 1 litre.) 200-250ml of Foam Bath Emulsifier 750-800ml Boiling Water/or Boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction 1 teaspoon (5ml) of Preservative (or double if using Herbal Infusions or Decoctions) 10-20ml Essential Oils (Maximum 2%) If using Preservative K, add 1 teaspoon Lactic Acid (or 2 teaspoons if using 2 teaspoons of Preservative K) Method for making Foam Baths 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Measure the Foam Bath Emulsifier in a measuring jug and pour into an oven-proof bowl. Measure the boiling water or boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction and pour into the bowl with the Foam Bath Emulsifier. Add the Preservative. Stir well until the mixture becomes thick. Place the bowl in a sink of very cold water, stirring the mixture occasionally. When it is cooled to below 30°C, blend in your own Essential Oils and add Lactic Acid if using Preservative K. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature and then, if you prefer, add more cold water to achieve the consistency you require. Pour into bottles and label.
Adding Essential Oils to Foam Bath Recipes Adding different types of Essential Oil blends to your Foam Bath will affect the consistency of your Foam Bath. Adjust once made by: adding more Foam Bath Emulsifier if too thin; or more cold water if too thick. The next time you make the same Recipe, adjust your Recipe so that you add more Foam Bath Emulsifier or water, whatever the case may be, from the start. When using Essential Oils in your Baths, it is important that the Essential Oils are dispersed evenly throughout the whole bath and that the drops are not floating on the surface. This ensures that the Essential Oils penetrate the skin correctly. This is especially important for sensitive skin types or with conditions such as eczema. Using Essential Oils in Foam Baths is the easiest way to ensure that they are evenly dispersed in the bath. Quantities of herbs to use in your Foam Bath Recipes To make the Infusion or Decoction to use in your Foam Bath Recipe, use approximately 1 litre per 15-20g of dried herbs or approximately 3 litres of water per 150-200g of fresh herbs for each 1 litre of Foam Bath that you are making. Tips x
x x
When boiling or infusing your herbs, you need to start off with more water than your eventual Recipe states you need of an Infusion or Decoction as water will evaporate or be absorbed by the herb, e.g. if you need a 65ml Decoction, you may need to use 100ml water. You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers or leaves or roots you are using. Please follow instructions for exact amount listed under each herb in this Guide.
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Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems When using Baths to treat specialised skin problems such as eczema it is important to start with calming herbs such as Chamomile. This is especially important if the skin is very infected. You can use Chamomile in your Baths for a whole week, but if using other herbs, use them only for one night at a time and alternate with one or more herbs. After using the Chamomile or other calming herbs, you can continue with a drawing and activating herb such as Wild Pansy and then alternate with Chickweed, for example, if the problem is itchy skin or eczema. Eye Baths You can buy plastic Eye Bath cups from the local pharmacy and put the Infusion, Decoction or diluted Tincture (1-2% diluted in water e.g. 1-2ml of the Tincture in 100ml of water) in the cup before placing the eye over the cup and tilting the head back to wash the eye. Make sure you have covered the neck and chest area with a towel or something similar as the liquid will run down your face. , Never use hot liquid in your Eye Bath – make sure the liquid is cold, cool or lukewarm. Herbal Facial Steams Boil water and add enough to almost fill a plastic, ceramic or stainless steel basin. Add a few pinches of the dried herbs of your choice to the water in the basin and allow to draw for a few minutes. Sit at a table with a towel over your head and cover the basin of hot water in front of you. Keep your head at a comfortable distance above the water so the steam reaches your face. Sit for 5-10 minutes with your head in the 'tent' and allow the herbs and the steam to do their work. Essential Oils can be used instead of herbs. You can use the bathroom sink instead of a basin – just take a chair into the bathroom so that you can sit comfortably while taking the steam.
Skin Toners... Base Toner Recipe (Makes approximately 250ml) 5 drops Essential Oil 20ml Herbal Tincture 10-20 ml Moisturiser – either Glycerine, Honey Moisturiser, Sorbitol or NFF Moisturiser 210ml Still Water, Aloe Vera, Water or Hydrosols General Method for making Toners 1. 2. 3.
Blend all of the ingredients together in the order of the Recipe into a bottle. Shake the bottle every time you add a new raw material. Top up with Still Water, Hydrolate or Infusion. Use the different Hydrolates, Tinctures, Essential Oils or other Active Ingredients which suit you best.
Note: The shelf life of the Toners in this Guide without added Preservatives is 6 months. If Preservatives are added, the shelf life is increased to 2 years. Simply add 10 extra drops of Preservative per 100ml of any Still Water added. If using Preservative K, add 1g of Lactic Acid at the end of your Recipe. 16
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Compresses, Poultices and Plasters... Compresses, Poultices and Plasters are an excellent way to apply a treatment externally to a specific part of the body. This reduces the necessity for internal medication. Compresses There are three main types of Compresses: Hot; Cold (varying from room temperature to ice cold); and Heating Compresses. There are also many different ways of applying Compresses, such as using botanical material itself e.g. Plantain leaf; dipping a cotton cloth in an Infusion, Decoction, Tincture (5% diluted in water) and then applying it to the affected area; using Clay; herbal tea bags; dried herbs, etc. Essential Oils are also often mixed with these substances to be used in a Compress. Cold Compresses Cold Compresses (room temperature) are used on wounds, eczema, psoriasis and similar problems where the skin is broken (not inflamed). Cold Compresses (ice cold) can help relieve the pain of gout and minimise swelling from bruises and sprains. Ice cold Compresses can also be used to prevent or relieve congestion and to reduce blood flow to an area. Experts suggest limiting ice cold applications to 20 minutes at a time to prevent damage to the skin. How to prepare a Cold Compress Follow the methods for Wet or Dry Compresses below. For Sprains and Bruises you can wrap a pack of frozen peas with cotton cloth and apply to affected area. You can also add ice cubes to your Infusion, etc. to make it colder. Hot Compresses Hot Compresses are used when the skin is not broken, for example with rheumatism, sprains, inflammations, accidents, pains and swellings (but not to treat shingles). Hot Compresses can also be used to lessen the discomfort of menstrual cramps and irritable bowel syndrome, and to increase blood flow to a particular part of the body. Large Hot Compresses applied to the chest are also helpful for respiratory problems. Smaller Hot Compresses are used for localised pain relief from muscle spasms and certain types of arthritis. , Remember: never use Hot Compresses on broken skin. How to prepare a Hot Compress Follow the ‘Method for Wet Compresses’ below. Heating Compresses Combining the basic Cold Compress Method with adding extra insulating layers over it, you can make a Heating Compress. The body will gradually warm the Compress and the transition from cold to warm adds to the therapeutic value. They are left in place until the body's heat warms them, usually for several hours or overnight. Used for sore throats, ear infections, chest colds, joint pain and digestive problems, the Heating Compress creates soothing warmth in the affected area and attracts an influx of nutrient- and oxygen-rich blood to speed healing. - 17 -
How to prepare a Heating Compress A Heating Compress can be a Dry or Wet Compress. For a Dry Heating Compress see ‘Method for Dry Compresses’ below. For a Wet Heating Compress see ‘Method for Wet Compresses’ below. How to Make a Compress You will need: A cotton/muslin cloth 30x50 cm for suitable Compress for chest, throat, knee, elbow Compress or tube bandage for smaller Compresses Clingfilm (never use tape or clingfilm directly on the skin) Surgical tape or freezer tape Elastic Bandage Woollen cloth (for Heating Compress) Method for Dry Compresses
1
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
2
3
4
Spread a cotton or muslin cloth approximately 30x50cm on a clean and smooth surface. Evenly place 35-50g of the dried herb in the middle of the cotton cloth (see Fig 1). Then cover with clingfilm. Fold each side of the cloth over the content (Fig 2). Lastly tape everything so the content is secure (Fig 3). Place the Compress on the area to be treated with the cloth side towards the skin (Fig 4). The clingfilm is facing out, so the healing content is close to the skin. Wrap around with an elastic bandage and secure with tape. You can also add a last layer of insulating material, such as a woollen scarf to create a Dry Heating Compress.
Method for Wet Compresses 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Make a strong Infusion, Decoction or use a Tincture (mostly diluted but not always, depending on the use and the herb) of your selected herb/s. Soak a clean cotton or muslin cloth in either a hot or cold (depending on the use) Infusion, Decoction, Tincture, Hydrolate, Water, etc. and then squeeze out the cloth so that the desired amount of liquid remains in the cloth. Apply gently and loosely to the affected area of the body. Now, you can either go directly to step 5 below or continue by soaking the cloth in the herbal solution every 15-30 minutes and applying it to the body. Repeat as often as necessary. Wrap the soaked cloth over the affected area and cover the cloth and area with clingfilm. Then secure both the cloth and the clingfilm with a stretch bandage. Discard the solution. To make a Heating Compress of a Cold Wet Compress or to keep your Hot Compress warm, add a layer of insulating material, such as a woollen scarf between the clingfilm layer and the stretch bandage. You can also keep a Hot Compress Warm by placing a hot water bottle on the bandaged area. 18
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Kolbjorn’s Tips for Compresses x x
x
x
x
When onion is used in a Compress, it is important that it doesn’t come in direct contact with the skin; put it in a cotton cloth. Never use raw garlic in a Compress. If you want to use garlic, then crush the garlic and mix into a vegetable oil, leaving it for 3-4 days and shaking twice a day on those days. Strain twice, making sure no bits of garlic are left in the oil. Soak a cotton cloth in the oil and use according to the instruction for Wet Compresses. Never use Hot Compresses on wounds, as the ingredients will be absorbed into the body. As a rule Compresses should be left on the person overnight, but not for more than 8-10 hours at a time. However, if the area of the body starts to itch under the Compress, remove it immediately. This will apply more specifically to children or when the Compress contains onions or arnica or when it is being used on burns. Compresses on a wounded surface can first appear much worse. This is because the Compress draws out pus and impurities through the wound. Change the Compress often, wash and clean the area with a strong Chamomile Infusion. You will soon see a big improvement and the wound will heal. Don’t use the same type of herb in your Compress two nights in a row, alternate with different types herbs in your Compresses. An exception is the Dry Chamomile Compress, which you can use every night for up to a week. You can make a Chamomile Heating Compress (see ‘Method for Dry Compresses’ opposite) using dried Chamomile flowers and place a hot water bottle on top of the woollen material if you wish.
Poultices... A Poultice is a wad of chopped, fresh plant material that is applied directly to a wound or infection on the skin and usually held in place by a Wet Compress that is covered by a bandage. Poultices & Plasters Poultices and Plasters are used much like Compresses except they are made with fresh (or dried, but re-moistened), solid herbal or plant material rather than an Infusion or Decoction. Poultices are generally a wad of bruised or chopped plant material applied topically to an area of the body, such as a wound or infection. Poultices work primarily at the application site, typically preventing infection and hastening the healing of wounds. But there are doubtless many compounds in Poultice plants that pass through the skin and have internal benefits as well. They become Plasters when using finely ground herbs or adding ingredients such as cornmeal or wheat flour to assist their cohesiveness. Generally Plasters are placed in layers of thin material to protect the skin as well. Plasters tend to be stronger in nature and should be monitored to avoid any skin reactions to strong herbs such as garlic or mustard. It is advisable to massage oil over the skin prior to placement of the Plaster. Both Plasters and Poultices are wonderful for their action of ‘drawing out’ toxins. You can bandage and cover a Poultice in the same way as you might with a Compress (described in section on Compresses on page 18). , When using Baths, Compresses and Poultices to treat skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis, it is very important to start with calming or soothing herbs e.g. Chamomile Baths and Compresses for a week. Then you can continue the treatment with herbs which have properties of drawing out infections, e.g. Wild Pansy.
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Gels... Recipes for Gels are beyond the scope of this Guide and can be found in other Aromantic Guides. Always remember that if you add any alcohol-based herbal preparations, such as Tinctures, to your Gel, you should compensate for the drying effect of the alcohol by adding 34% Vegetable Oil to your Recipe.
Creams... You can replace the water content in your Cream Recipes with a Herbal Decoction or Infusion or replace some of the water with up to 10% of the Tincture. We have included the basic Recipe for Herbal Cream, as well as the Method for making all Creams below. This Cream is especially suitable for Dry or Mature skin, but can be used for all skin types except oily skin. Refer to Aromantic’s Education Pack 1 for further Cream, and Lotion Recipes, as well as for troubleshooting tips. Note: Adding herbal infusions or Decoctions to your Creams, Lotions and Gels will discolour these products. Carotene is used in the Recipe below to colour the Cream in order to mask the less attractive colouring caused by the herbs. Herbal Cream Recipe (Makes 100gr/ml of Cream. Multiply if you want to make larger quantities e.g. x10 for 1 litre of Cream.) Fat Stage 2g Cocoa Butter 3ml Olive Oil 7ml Almond Oil 3ml Thistle Oil 2g Cetyl Alcohol 2.5g VE Emulsifier Water Stage 4.5g MF Emulsifier 70ml Boiling Infusion and/or Decoction of herbs of your choice 2ml Glycerine (Moisturiser) 20 drops Preservative 2 drops Carotene Third Stage 0.5ml Vitamin E 2ml/g NFF Moisturiser [10ml Herbal Tincture of your choice - optional] , If using the Herbal Tincture mentioned in the Third Stage above, then reduce the Boiling Infusion/Decoction in the Water Stage to 60ml. Because of tinctures’ dissolving properties, you must also add an extra 0.5g VE Emulsifier as well as 0.5g MF Emulsifier to your recipe. Fourth Stage 20 drops Essential Oil (0.5g/10-12 drops Lactic Acid – if using Preservative K as your Preservative) , If you wish to make the Dry Skin Care Cream fluffier, add 20-30 ml Aloe Vera Gel to this amount of Cream and reduce the Boiling Spring Water accordingly. (See Aromantic’s Recipe Brochure: How to make Gels.) 20
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Basic Method for making all Creams 1.
Fat Stage: Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double boiler until all of the ingredients have melted and the temperature has risen to 75-80°C. There is no need to use a whisk at this stage.
2.
Water Stage: After carefully straining the Infusion or Decoction, measure it according to the Recipe and pour it over the MF Emulsifier, the Glycerine, and the Preservative, which you have put into a separate double boiler.
3.
Whisk the Water Stage ingredients well together, making sure that the MF Emulsifier powder is fully dissolved in the water and that you don’t have any lumps. Then allow the mixture to heat to 75-80°C.
4.
When both Fat and Water Stages are over 75°C (check with a thermometer), remove both double boilers from the hob, keeping the Water Stage mixture hot by leaving it on the top half of the double boiler.
5.
Now pour the melted Fat Stage into the Water Stage in a thin, steady stream, while continuously whisking the mixture from side to side for 5 minutes. If necessary, use a spatula to scrape the mixture from the sides of the saucepan (or bowl).
6.
Allow the mixture to cool, stirring all the time. You can speed up by the cooling process by replacing the hot water in the double boiler with very COLD water. In the process of cooling down, the mixture becomes a Cream and will reach its thickest consistency when it is has cooled down to room temperature.
7.
Third Stage: Stir in the Third Stage ingredients when the mixture has cooled to under 40C.
8.
Fourth Stage: Continue stirring until the mixture has cooled to under 25°C, then thoroughly mix in the Essential Oils.
9.
Pour the Cream into one big jar or smaller jars and label.
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Heating the Fat and Water Stages
Mixing the Fat and Water Stages
Pouring the Cream into a jar
Ointments... Ointments are used to protect the skin. They are for use on dry, cracked skin and for minor injuries to the skin. To make Ointments you will need a stainless steel saucepan, a bowl, a whisk, a spatula, and a thermometer (optional, up to 110°C) as well as the ingredients. A simple Base Ointment can be made from Vegetable Oils and Beeswax. The Vegetable Oils nourish the skin while at the same time softening and protecting it. The Beeswax protects the skin while giving the Ointment its consistency. The more Beeswax you add, the harder the Ointment will be and the more Vegetable Oil you add, the softer it will be. Base Ointment Recipe (Makes 100g/ml.) 15g Beeswax 85ml Vegetable Oil of your choice (e.g. Sweet Almond Oil*) *
There are many Vegetable Oils to choose from, everything from a simple Olive or Sunflower Oil to a more luxurious Avocado, Apricot Kernel or Peach Kernel Oil.
Method for making Base Ointments 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Melt the Beeswax and Vegetable Oil together in a double boiler. When the Beeswax is completely melted, remove the bowl or saucepan the ingredients are in from the double boiler. Whisk the Ointment until it has cooled to approximately 40-45°C. Whisk, or stir in, appropriate active raw materials such as Tinctures (up to 15%); Botanical CO2 Extracts; Vitamins (A &E); and Essential Oils. Remember to reduce the amount of Vegetable Oil in your Recipe accordingly. Pour into jars.
Shampoos, Conditioners,Toothpastes, Deodorants and Insect Repellents... Recipes for these products are beyond the scope of this Guide and can be found in other Aromantic literature. Simply replace the water in the recipes found in those Guides with Herbal Infusions, Decoctions, or Tinctures, whichever is specified in the entries for each herb listed in this Guide.
22
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Aloe
Aloe barbadensis (Although not strictly a herb, we have included Aloe Vera because of its many useful properties for Skin, Hair, Body and Pet Care.)
Aloe was also mentioned in ancient Chinese transcripts. It was used for eczema in China under the name ‘lu hui’ and in India under the name ‘musabbar’.
Synonyms: Barbados Aloe, Coastal Aloe, Curaçao Aloe, Indian Aloe, Jaffarabad Aloe, Medicinal Aloe, Mediterranean Aloe, Star Cactus, True Aloe (Aloe Vera), West Indian Aloe.
Aloe was also mentioned in the writings of the well-known Latin writer, Aurelius Celsus, in the year 1378. In America, Aloe was mentioned in Columbus' journals. The earliest record of using Aloe's bitter material as a drug in America was 1697. Central and South American Indians used it to treat burns, kidney and bladder infections, dysentery, stomach and intestinal disorders.
Parts used: Gel from the leaves (can be grown as a pot plant). Traditional use & history, description and properties: Also known as Aloe Vera, the clear Gel of this plant has been used medicinally since the time of the ancient Egyptians. The bitter yellow aloe latex obtained from the base of the leaves has also been used as a traditional remedy for constipation and used on warts. Ancient records of the Egyptians, Arab, African, Asians and Americans have discussed the different uses and pathological cases in which Aloes were administered. The Arabs had taken Aloe Vera plants to India and the Indian people called it ‘savari’, a name from which the name ‘savila’’ (Spanish for Aloe Vera) might have been derived. The Indians, who use it as one of the Ayurvedic medicinal herbs, named Aloe ‘ailwa’, from which the Greek word ‘alon’ might have been derived.
Description & properties: Aloe plants belong to the liliaceae family which contains over 200 ‘genera’. Aloe, with its different species composes 1/10th the size of the lily family. Aloe can be separated into two basic products: a gel, which is pressed out from the core of the leaves; and a latex, which is a sticky, bitter yellow exudate from just below the outer skin of the leaves often called Aloe juice. A powerful laxative called aloin is found in the juice of the Aloe leaf, but only found in small quantities in the Gel. A note of clarification: when I refer to Aloe Vera Gel, I am referring to a Skin Gel made with Aloe Vera Concentrate (from the substance called Gel, which is pressed from the Aloe leaves and 90% of its water content removed) added to a Thickening Agent; Water; and other ingredients to reconstitute it. The enzymes contained in the Gel are affected by heating above 70ºC. The fresh leaves and liquid Gels or Extracts are more effective than the powdered, dehydrated Aloe, which is heated. Aloe Gel can be bought in health food shops and the quality will depend on where it is made. Often Guar Gum, Xanthan Gum or extra glucomannan is added to create the correct consistency.
Aloe barbadensis - 23 -
Internal use: Aloe Vera has many uses internally, such as for treating: constipation; indigestion; diarrhoea and other intestinal problems; low energy; cancer; ulcers; hangovers; diabetes; diverticulosis; diverticulitis and peptic ulcers; sore and bleeding gums; fungal growth such as Candida albicans; asthma; heartburn; haemorrhoids; ulcers; and to speed up and improve general healing, to name but a few.
Main constituents: 96% water, lignin, saponins, anthraquines, carbohydrate glucomannans (of particular importance is acemannan), tannins, steroids, enzymes, growth hormones, aloin, glucommannans, salicylic acid, and fatty acids. Aloe Vera also contains twenty amino acids (including all eight essential amino acids), at least nine minerals i.e. calcium, sodium, iron, potassium, zinc, chromium, magnesium, manganese and copper, and a number of vitamins, including B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, A, C, E, folic acid, and choline.
Pet Care: Cuts and scrapes: Freshly cut Aloe or Aloe Vera Gel is an excellent application for cuts and scrapes. It is a natural antiseptic, and will keep the area moist until the cut can heal. Skin problems: Aloe Vera is an excellent preparation to use for skin conditions such as allergies, abscesses, fungal infections, pyoderma, and many types of dermatitis. Wounds and Burns: These respond particularly well to Aloe Vera. Aloe Vera can aid the natural healing processes and help to keep the wound or burn moist and supplied with nutrients. Internal use: The Aloe Vera Gel can be used for stomach problems and digestive upsets.
External use for Skin, Hair and Body products: A lot of research has been done on Aloe Vera and clearly shows that the Gel: has anti-inflammatory properties; reduces scarring in burns; skin ulcers and other lesions; relieves pain from sunburn and burns and helps these to heal quickly by stimulating fibroblast and connective tissue formation, and by stimulating the epidermal growth and repair process; has rejuvenating effects; and has also been shown to have an invigorating effect on skin when applied on a regular basis. It is an excellent emollient, making it soothing and calming to the skin, is antiseptic and antibacterial, acting against a number of different bacteria and fungi (staphylococci, streptococci, salmonella and Candida albicans).
Usage and preparation of Aloe Vera in your products: For healing purposes, add up to 10% Aloe Concentrate to Creams, Lotions, Gels, Preand After-Sun Protection products, Shampoos, Conditioners, Toothpastes, Mouth Washes and Gargles, Vaginal Douches, Skin Toners, and Baby products.
Aloe Vera is used in Skin Care products that help to treat: Sunburn; overexposure to radiation (it also helps to protect against solar radiation); burns; scars on the skin; irritation of the skin; nappy rash; acne spots; small sores; haemorrhoids (piles); herpes; shingles; insect bites; eczema; psoriasis; wounds; varicose ulcers; and other sores which are slow to heal; itchy scalp; and dandruff,.
For how to make your own Aloe Vera Gel from 1:9 Liquid Aloe Vera Concentrate, refer to Aromantic’s Education Pack 1.
Aloe Vera Gel can be used in the following Skin, Hair and Body Care products: Compresses; Poultices and Plasters – use the Gel, or the fresh botanical material; Lotions; Creams; Pre- and After-Sun Protection products; directly on the skin; Shampoos; Gels; Mouth Washes and Gargles; Toothpastes; Vaginal Douches; Toners and Facial Sprays; and Baby products. 24
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Arnica
Arnica montana Synonyms: Leopard’s bane. Parts used: Flowers and roots. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Arnica montana or Leopard's Bane is a perennial herb, indigenous to Central Europe, in woods and mountain pastures, and also native to Siberia and North West North America. It has also been found in England and southern Scotland, but it is probably not indigenous to Britain. In countries where Arnica is indigenous, it has long been a popular remedy for bruises, wounds, pain, swellings, rheumatic pain, the pain and inflammation of phlebitis and similar conditions. In North America the flowers are used in preference to the roots. Arnica has been used extensively in folk medicine. The German philosopher and poet Goethe (17491832), claimed that Arnica helped to ease his angina in old age. Whilst the internal use of Arnica is restricted to homoeopathic use as it is potentially toxic, the herb provides us with one of the best remedies for external local healing and is mainly used in a Compress for bruises, swellings, inflammations and other tissue damage caused by sprains, bumps, bangs and
crushing. Also good for pulled muscles and torn ligaments, for gout, lumbago and rheumatic ailments. Arnica montana contains 10 different constituents (including the immuno-stimulant Helenalin, its most active sesquiterpene lactone), which have anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving effects. The plant’s Essential Oils (which are antiseptic and anti-inflammatory) and carotene promote healing. The Essential Oil stimulates the mopping up and reabsorption of blood from the bruised tissue and hastens the replacement of damaged tissue with new cells. Main constituents: Essential Oils and volatile oils, containing thymol and various ethers of thymol, which are mostly found in the roots and root stock; sesquiterpene lactones; mucilage and polysaccharides; and other substances such as resins, bitters (arnicin), tannins and carotenes. For external use: Arnica is used almost exclusively in Tincture form and then mainly in a Compress, Cream or Ointment. Arnica Tincture must always be diluted in some way, as prolonged contact with the skin can cause severe redness and tissue damage and must not be used on broken skin or open wounds. Arnica Tincture should be diluted with up to 9 parts water (use approximately 10%) and the Compress dipped into this and then applied wet to the affected area. This should be held in place with a cloth bandage. Do not use any plastics as it is important that the area should not be made airtight. The bandage should be changed regularly, as soon as it dries. For more comprehensive instructions, follow the Method for Wet Compresses on page 18.
Arnica montana - 25 -
For acutely inflamed haemorrhoids, use Cold Arnica Compresses and replace these hourly. You can also add the Tincture or Infusion to Creams and Lotions or the Tincture to Ointments. Arnica Cream or Lotion is a favourite of athletes and others participating in active sports.
Arnica Recipes Arnica Compress Use on sprains, bruises, swollen skin, pains, and herpes blisters. Using Arnica on burns increases the bleeding-through and reduces scar formation.
Homoeopathic Arnica can be taken internally to promote healing from bruising, sprains, inflammations, internal injuries and also for shock and trauma.
, The skin should not be in contact with Arnica for more than 6 hours a day as any longer contact can create skin irritation. Never take Arnica internally, except in homoeopathic doses.
Pet Care: Use Arnica externally for bruises, wounds, contusions, etc in the same way as for humans – in Compresses, Ointments, Creams, etc.
You will need: 50ml warm water at blood temperature, 37°C 1 teaspoon Arnica Tincture
, Remember not to apply Arnica products to an open wound or broken skin.
Method
Homoeopathic Arnica can be given to animals internally to promote healing from bruising, inflammations, sprains, internal injuries and also for shock and trauma.
Follow the Method for Wet Compresses described on pg 18 and also follow the instructions in step 8 for keeping Hot Compresses warm.
Usage and preparation of Arnica in your products:
Arnica Healing Ointment
The Tincture can be made with fresh or dried Arnica flowers and alcohol. Use 10g of the dried flowers, or 50g of the fresh flowers, to 150ml alcohol.
Stage 1 Stage 2
To make an Infusion use 15-20g of the dried flowers, or150-200g of the fresh flowers, to 1 litre of water and allow to infuse for 30 minutes. Use up to 10% pure Arnica Tincture mixed into a Base Ointment, or add to Creams or Lotions.
15g Beeswax 34ml Olive Oil 20ml Avocado Oil 10ml Thistle Oil 5ml Borage Oil
Stage 3
10ml Arnica Tincture 5ml/g Vitamin E Oil
Stage 4
15-20 drops healing Essential Oils of your choice
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 26
Melt Stage 1 ingredients first in a double boiler. When melted, add Stage 2 ingredients and stir well. Then stir in Stage 3 ingredients. Finally add the Essential Oils and stir in thoroughly. Place in jars and allow to settle.
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Birch
Betula alba Synonyms: Lady of the Woods (AngloSaxon), Common Birch, Silver Birch.
for it's white colour. Found in all parts of Europe and Northern Asia, all parts of the Birch tree have also long been used in folk medicine, for ritual healing and purification, magical protective and creative talismans.
Parts used: The leaves, but also the bark and tar. The leaves are picked in early spring, the bark either early in the spring or in the autumn. Traditional use & history, description and properties: The name is a very ancient one, probably derived from the Sanskrit ‘bhurga’, 'a tree whose bark is used for writing upon'. Traditionally, Birch has been used for many ailments ranging from headache to fever, cramps, gout, wounds and skin ailments. Today researchers are focusing on the possible anti-cancer and HIV properties of betulinic acid a pentacyclic triterpene which is synthesized or derived from betulin found in the shredding bark of the tree and accounts
The production of Birch tar oil is a Russian industry of considerable importance and apart from being used for skin complaints, it is also used in the preserving of leather and in photography. Birch wine has been made for a long time in parts of Europe. The tree has been used for many more purposes, such in boat-building, roofing, the manufacture of bobbins for thread mills, herring-barrel staves, broom handles, various fancy articles, thatching, wattles, broom making and in the manufacture of cloth, as well as asphyxiating gases and gunpowder. Native Americans of northern New England regions in North America are well known for making Birch-bark canoes but there are also records of these canoes being made in Europe. In Britain, the Birch tree was used for making the May pole used in folk festivities as it was very much associated with fertility and sexuality until the 19th century, when people considered themselves to be married if they jumped across a Birch broom. In Sweden, Birch poles are still used to make May poles. The bark has also long been used as a source of tannin for tanning leather. In Estonia, the leaves are still considered one of the three most important ‘whisking’ herbs to use for sauna treatments. With regard to Natural Skin Care and Beauty, Birch leaves disinfect wounds and are considered to alleviate most skin complaints, including cellulite.
Betula alba
Main constituents: Approximately 3% saponins (concentration is highest in the spring), 0.05-1% Essential Oil, 5-9% tannins. Betulin (also known as Birch Camphor), a component richest in the Birch bark, is being studied for its hepatoprotective (liver - 27 -
protecting), anti-ulcer, and anti-inflammatory activities. In high concentration, it may inhibit viruses and cancer cell reproduction. The leaves contain flavonoids that may be responsible for the anti-inflammatory activity; one of the components is hyperoside, which is also found in St. John's Wort. Birch is also high in vitamins A, C, E, B1, B2 and in the minerals calcium, chloride, copper, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, silicon and fluoride.
natural aspirin, those who are allergic to aspirin should not use Birch-based herbs. Skin and Body Care: The leaves are used externally as an astringent and antiseptic (the bark is even more effective) for inflammations of the skin and for strengthening the skin tissue. Birch tar, which is extracted through the dry distillation of the bark and wood and is a brown-black, with a thick, runny, sticky, syrupy consistency, is used in an Ointment base to treat scabies, skin parasites, eczema, psoriasis and chronic diseases of the skin. Because of the high tannin contents, Birch leaves have an astringent effect on weeping eczemas and other skin problems. In addition, Birch leaves contain betulin, which curb or kill viruses, such as the papillomavirus, which causes warts. ,Birch Essential Oil is recommended for use by professional aromatherapists only.
Internal use: Birch leaves have a strong, diuretic effect, which is mainly caused by the saponins found in the leaves. The diuretic effect with normal dosages has been questioned but when adding a little Sodium Bicarbonate to the Birch tea will increase its diuretic effects. This is because the active betulorentic acid in the leaves is easily dissolved by the Sodium Bicarbonate. In a similar way, Birch leaves taken as a hot Infusion have both diuretic and sudorific (sweat-producing) effects as the hot water increases the effects. Boil for 15 minutes if you want to release the saponins. Birch leaf is usually taken as a tea or in capsule form for Arthritis; blood purifying; boils; gout; bladder problems; kidney stones; oedema; worms. , Since its chemical make up is very similar to
Use a strong Birch leaf Decoction for Compresses for warts and eczema. Soak a cotton cloth in the Decoction and apply as a Compress to eczema and warts. Hair Care: Birch leaf is considered to strengthen skin tissue, tone the scalp and prevent hair loss and make hair soft and shiny. To use, make a strong Decoction and add it to your Shampoo Recipe. A Birch leaf Decoction is an excellent addition to your Nettle Shampoo recipe as the saponins in the Birch opens up the pores to allow the minerals in the Nettle to penetrate the scalp. Oral Care: It can also be used as a Tooth Powder to brush teeth. Preparation and usage of Birch in your products: For Compresses, make a strong Decoction by boiling 15-20g dried Birch leaves per 1 litre of water for 15 minutes to release the saponins before use. For Shampoos, add a Birch leaf Decoction to your Recipe. Add 10-20% of the total volume of your Shampoo e.g. if using 20%, then you would use 20ml of the Decoction in 100ml of Shampoo. 28
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Chamomile Matricaria recutita
To make the Birch leaf Decoction, use 15-20g of dried Birch leaves per 1 litre of water or 150-200g of fresh Birch leaves per 2-3 litres of water. For Whole Body Baths, use either 50-100g of dried Birch Leaves or 500-1000g fresh Birch leaves or use a strong Decoction. Use a 15% concentration of Birch tar in an Ointment base only to treat scabies and skin parasites and a maximum of 8% concentration for eczema, psoriasis and chronic diseases of the skin. Grind the dried leaves in a coffee grinder and use as a rough Powder by dipping your toothbrush in it and brushing the teeth.
Birch Hair Rinse Recipe (Makes approximately 1 litre.) You will need: For the Decoction 25g dried Birch leaves 1200ml Still Water Other Hair Rinse Ingredients 1-1.2gr Preservative 20ml D-Panthenol 20ml Bio-energiser 5g Lactic Acid (if you are using Preservative K as your Preservative) , If you are using this Hair Rinse within a week of making it, you don’t need to use a Preservative. Method: 1. 2.
Make 1 litre of a strong Birch Decoction and strain. Mix the rest of the ingredients into the Decoction and use as a Hair Rinse.
Synonyms: Chamomilla recutita, German Chamomile, Blue Chamomile, Sweet Chamomile, Sweet Feverfew, Whig-plant, Manzanilla and too many more to mention here. Note: Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) is a close relation, used in a similar way. Parts used: Flowers. Traditional use & history, description and properties: This herb is one of the best known of the garden herbs and is widely cultivated in Europe. In the middle ages, Chamomile used to be regarded as the 'Plant's Physician,' and it has been stated that nothing contributes as much to the health of a garden as a number of Chamomile herbs distributed around it, and that if another plant is drooping and sickly, in nine cases out of ten, it will recover if you place a herb of Chamomile near it. Its value as a medicinal herb has been recognised for many hundreds of years and its use has even been recorded in ancient Egyptian manuscripts. It is said that the Egyptians dedicated Chamomile to their sun god and valued it over all other herbs for its healing qualities. Due to its sedative and relaxing properties Chamomile was an ingredient in some love potions in the middle ages. The fresh plant is strongly and agreeably aromatic, with a distinct scent of apples - a characteristic noted by the Greeks, on account of which they named it 'ground-apple'; - ‘kamai’ (on the ground) and melon (an apple) - the origin of the name Chamomile. The Spaniards call it 'manzanilla,' which signifies 'a little apple', and give the same name to one of their lightest sherries, flavoured with this plant. Anglo-Saxons believed it was one of the nine sacred herbs given to humans by the god Woden.
- 29 -
Main constituents: The flowers of Chamomile contain 1–2% volatile oils including alpha-bisabolol, alpha-bisabolol oxides A & B, and matricin (usually converted, when heated through distillation or Infusion, to chamazulene, which is blue). Other active constituents include the flavonoids apigenin, luteolin, and quercetin. These active ingredients contribute to chamomile’s antiinflammatory, antispasmodic, and smoothmuscle relaxing action, particularly in the gastrointestinal tract. Also present are bitter principles, glycosides and carbohydrates.
Crohn’s disease; Irritable Bowel Syndrome; infantile teething pain (usually homoeopathic doses); and infantile convulsions (usually as a weak Infusion). External use: Chamomile is used externally for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and healing effect. The active ingredients in Chamomile flowers can detoxify certain bacterial toxins, affect the composition of substances in the skin and have a locally astringent effect on the arteries. They also increase blood circulation in the tissue. Chamomile is used externally to ease or treat: Inflammation; sore skin; blisters and sores in the mouth and nose; gingivitis; varicose ulcers; irritation and infections of the skin; haemorrhoids; fistula; burns; insect bites; washing wounds to prevent infections; weeping eczema; colds (inhaled, Steam Baths); psoriasis (Steam Bath and Creams); haemorrhoids and vaginal and bladder infections (Bath or Steam Bath). Bisabolol and chamazulene are both anti-inflammatory. Chamazulene is found only in the Essential Oil and is hardly present when the flowers are infused.
Internal use: The Essential Oil found in Chamomile flowers has anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic and anti-microbial activity. It is an excellent herb for many digestive disorders and for nervous tension and irritability. For safe internal use, only the Infusion or the Tincture is recommended. Chamomile is used internally to ease or treat: indigestion; heartburn; nervousness; depressions; headaches; emotion-related problems; insomnia; peptic ulcers; colitis; spastic colon; nervous indigestion; diarrhoea;
Matricaria recutita 30
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Chickweed Stellaria media Chamomile Tip:
Synonyms: Starweed, Starwort.
It is recommended that both the Essential Oil and the Infusion be used in external applications. Chamomile Tincture can also be used, as well as Chamomile CO2 Extract. This is a powerful form of Chamomile and very little is needed to be effective.
Parts used: Whole above-ground plant. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Chickweed use has most likely not changed much since Neolithic man. It has been gathered in India and used by man for untold centuries. The early Greeks and Romans used Chickweed as one of the few edible greens available for food during the winter months.
Skin, Hair and Body Care: Chamomile has cleansing and refreshing properties and it soothes delicate, sensitive skin. It is used in a number of ways for a number of purposes: For swollen skin and eyes - Facial Steam Baths; Compresses. For stress and nervous tension - Soothing Bath; Massage Oil (Base Oil with Essential Oil and CO2 Extract). For scalp irritation/giving lighter shine Shampoos; Conditioners; Hair Packs. To lighten hair - Hair Rinses. For red, sensitive and/or irritated skin Creams, Skin Oils, Foam Bath. To help treat Acne and eczema - Facial/Steam Baths, Creams, Ointments, Compresses. Preparation and usage of dried Chamomile flowers for your products:
In the middle ages, Chickweed was popular as a salad green, pot herb, and as a medicinal for curing rashes. Chickweed has also been used as feed for poultry, a custom from which Chickweed derives its name. Chickweed seed is still added to commercially prepared poultry feed to stimulate the appetites of chickens raised in confinement. Chickweed was praised by most medieval herbalists as an excellent anti-inflammatory medicinal herb. It is said to have been taken to North America by the Puritan immigrants. It is also found in Central and South America. Chickweed Poultices are still used to combat rheumatism by people who continue to use folk remedies and is widely used in Antiitching Creams by herbalists.
For Foot and Hand Baths, use 15-20g per 1 litre of water. For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g. For Foam Baths, add 1-2% of either Chamomile CO2 Extract, or add 75-80% of a strong Chamomile Infusion to your Recipes. For Wet Compresses and Wraps, use 25-30g per 1 litre of water to make an Infusion. For Dry Compresses, see section at the beginning of the Pack for instructions. For Shampoo and Conditioners, make an Infusion to use in your Recipe. Use 1 litre of water per 15-20g to make the Infusion.
Stellaria media - 31 -
Chickweed Cream Recipe
Most important active ingredients: Triterpene saponins, hentiacontanol, coumarins, mucilage, phytosterols, tocopherols, Gamma Linoleic Acid (GLA), minerals, flavonoids (mainly apigenin cglycosides and rutin), organic acids (carboxylic acids) and Vitamin C.
(This is an excellent Cream for treating itchy skin and generally good for sensitive skin. Makes approximately 100ml/g.) Fat Stage 75-80°C
Internal use: Internally, Chickweed is used for rheumatism as well as chest infections. Fresh Chickweed is also used in salads or cooked as winter greens. When liquidised, it makes a good tonic juice, especially when it is combined with other herbs and vegetables.
6ml Apricot Kernel Oil 2g Shea Butter 2g Cetyl Alcohol 2.5g VE Emulsifier 2-3 drops Carotene
Water Stage 4g MF Emulsifier 75-80°C 48ml Boiling Infusion of Chickweed (use 2-3g dried, or 25-30g fresh Chickweed per 100ml of water) 5ml Comfrey Glycerol Extract 2g Lechitin 0.8-1.2ml Preservative (NB Use the higher amount if using Preservative K)
External use (Skin Care): Best known in its use for treating pruritus and itchy skin, it is also used to treat: eczema; acne; ulcers; haemorrhoids; varicose veins; psoriasis; Inflammation; vaginitis; urticaria (hives, solar rashes, nettle rashes, etc); boils; wounds; abscesses; skin allergies; and other skin problems. Preparation and usage of Chickweed for your products: For Healing Creams, make an Infusion to use in your Recipe. Use 1 litre of water per 1520g of dried, or 150-200g of fresh, Chickweed to make the Infusion. See the Chickweed Cream Recipe opposite as an example.
Third Stage 40-35°C
2ml Vitamin E Oil 5ml Borage Oil 1ml/g Vitamin A Palmitate 7ml Aloe Vera concentrate 1ml/g Rosehip Seed CO2 Extract
Fourth Stage
10ml runny Aloe Vera Gel 10-15 drops Essential Oils (optional) 1g Lactic acid (Only add if you are using Preservative K as your Preservative)
25°C
Use up to 10% of the Tincture in Creams or Ointments.
For Method on how to make a Cream, see page 21.
32
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Cleavers
Galium aparine L Synonyms: Goosegrass, Catchweed, Cleavers Goosegrass, Zhu Yang Yang.
Most important active ingredients: Galiosin, an anthraquinone glycoside, other glycosides such as asperuloside, a variety of tannins, citric acid and flavonoids.
Parts used: Aerial parts (gathered before flowering).
Skin Care: The variety of Tannic Acids in Cleavers have an astringent and antiseptic effect and this makes the herb good for healing wounds. In Skin Care it is useful for dry skin conditions such as psoriasis as it purifies the blood and is often used in combination with Yellow Dock and Burdock in Baths, Compresses, and Creams for this purpose. Cleavers are also useful also for burns and wounds that are hard to heal.
Traditional use & history, description and properties: Cleavers is one of numerous plants considered in ancient times to act as a diuretic and has also long been used for treating ulcers and tumours. It is still used to relieve oedema and to promote urine formation during bladder infections or when there the prostate is irritated. It has also been used very effectively by people with lymph swellings, jaundice, and wounds. It reduces inflammation and tones the lymphatic system. It is often included in herbal ‘detox’ formulas.
Preparation and usage of dried Cleavers in your products: Use an Infusion 15-20g per litre of water in Foam Bath Recipes and Wet Compresses. For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g for the whole bath. For Creams, make an Infusion to use in your Recipe. Use 1 litre of water per 15-20g dried Cleavers to make the Infusion. Remember that it generally combines well with Burdock and Yellow Dock.
Galium aparine L - 33 -
Comfrey
Symphytum officinalis Synonyms: Ass Ear, Black Root, Blackwort, Boneset, Bruisewort, Consound, Gum Plant, Healing Herb, Knitback, Knitbone, Salsify, Slippery Root, Wallwort.
The carbohydrates provide protective, soothing and rejuvenating properties. The tannins and rosmarinic acid have an astringent and anti-inflammatory effect.
Parts used: Leaves, Root.
The Essential Oil reinforces the tannins' antibacterial action.
Traditional use & history, description and properties: Comfrey's name derives from the Latin ‘con firma’, i.e. ‘with strength’, from the belief that it could heal broken bones. Long used to heal wounds, the Comfrey leaves and roots have been used to cure ailments ranging from stubborn leg ulcers to broken bones, and hence its common name of ‘boneset’ or ‘knitbone’.
, Comfrey root and young leaf preparations should not be used internally because of its pyrroliziden alkaloid content. Trials with rats using 4% Comfrey root reported the development of malignant tumours in the liver and skin.
Since 400 BCE, early Greek physicians have used Comfrey to stop bleeding, treat bronchial problems, heal wounds, and mend broken bones. During the Irish potato famine of the 1840s, an Englishman named Henry Doubleday became convinced that the world could be saved from hunger and suffering by using Comfrey. He was so intrigued by its possibilities as a useful crop that he devoted the rest of his life to popularising it. The Henry Doubleday Research Association (HDRA), which still exists in England today, was set up in 1954 by Lawrence Hills, who in turn was inspired by Henry Doubleday and his introduction of Russian Comfrey to Great Britain.
Main constituents: Allantoin, approx. 30% carbohydrate, tannins and small quantities of Essential Oil. Comfrey Root contains mucilage (fructans), pyrrolizidine alkaloids, triterpenes, allantoin, rosmarinic acid, tannins.
Comfrey has been used for centuries for its wound healing properties. Comfrey is mainly used externally to treat inflammation and to stimulate wound and bone fracture healing. It is also used for treating: tissue damage; bone infections; gout; inflammations; sprains; tendonitis; aches and pains; haemorrhages; post-operative wounds; sores which do not heal; eczema; psoriasis; varicose ulcers; boils; and varicose veins. The phytochemical allantoin is known for its stimulation of cell proliferation, healing wounds and stimulating the growth of healthy tissue. Symphytum officinalis 34
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Skin Care: Plants like Comfrey, which have a high carbohydrate content, are considered to rejuvenate the skin and to have healing, soothing and moisture retaining properties. They are good for rough, damaged skin and can, with time, alleviate wrinkling and enable skin tissue to regain its youthful elasticity.
Ointment and Face Toner Recipes. You can also add 3-6% of the water-based Comfrey Glycerol Extract to these Recipes in addition to using the Decoction or the Tincture. Kolbjorn’s suggestions for the use of fresh Comfrey Root Decoction:
Allantoin promotes skin cell regeneration, stimulates the growth of new cells and helps sensitive skin to become more resilient, counteracting dryness and cracking.
Adding the Decoction to an Ointment or Cream Recipe and using it to treat tendinitis yields very good results, which makes it ideal for people actively involved in sports.
Comfrey Glycerol Extract can also be added to products already containing other Comfrey preparations such as Tinctures or Decoctions. This will enhance the healing, moisturising and soothing effects of your product. It is particularly good to add the Glycerol Extract to Compresses, Shaving products, Shampoos, Foam Baths and Skin Toners.
Adding 5% Arnica Tincture to the gel-like Decoction is excellent in a Compress for healing fractures and sprains. See method for Wet Compresses on page 18. Kolbjorn’s method for making and using an effective Comfrey Decoction from fresh Comfrey root:
Preparation and usage of Comfrey in your products:
Fresh Comfrey roots get the best results and it is easy to grow in your own garden as it grows like a weed. To prepare the Comfrey for boiling, peel the fresh roots, removing any rotten or bruised parts.
Comfrey is used in Baths, Poultices, Compresses, Macerated Oils, Ointments, Creams & Lotions, Skin Toners, Shampoos, Foam Baths, and Shaving products.
Chop the roots up into small pieces and boil for 2-3 hours until the brown mucilage starts to appear in the water. Use 100g-150g of fresh Comfrey root per litre of water.
Add a strong Decoction to your Foam Bath and Cream Recipes. Either make a fresh root Decoction (see below) or use approximately 1 litre of water per 20-25g dried Comfrey Roots to make a Decoction from dried roots. For a Wet Compress, boil 20-25g dried Comfrey roots or leaves, or make a fresh root Decoction (see below) to apply overnight for fracture and sprain healing. For Whole Body Baths use 200g-300g fresh root or 50-100g dried roots for the whole bath. Or use 400-500g of the fresh leaves or 50-100g of dried Comfrey leaves. For Poultices, use as much of the freshly chopped root as you need to sufficiently cover the affected area. Add up to 10% of the Tincture to your
Once boiled, strain and use it in your Recipes. You can store the Decoction for a few days in the fridge. When adding this to a Cream or Ointment (maximum 8% to an Ointment, otherwise it separates), make sure you add double the Preservative usually required for your Recipe. Add a natural colouring such as, for example, Carotene, to your products to cover up the brownish colour caused by Comfrey root.
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Coltsfoot
Tussilago farfara Synonyms: Galax, Galaxy, Wandflower, Beetleweed.
Main constituents: Mucilage, carbohydrates (approximately 8%) and up to 17% tannins. Small quantities of Essential Oil and flavonoid glycosides. These are thought to give the herb anti-inflammatory and antitussive (cough suppression) activity. Coltsfoot also contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids, potentially toxic constituents. The flowers do not contain tannins but contain the yellow xanthophyll pigment related to carotene which, when used externally, has wound healing properties.
Parts used: Leaves and flowers. Flowers are picked in early spring and the leaves are picked in May/June, cut and dried. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Coltsfoot leaves have historically been used by herbalists to alleviate coughs due to all manner of conditions. It was considered particularly useful for people with chronic coughs, such as those due to emphysema or silicosis. It is said to have tissue-healing properties. Lilly Johansson used it for this reason at her naturopathic hospital in Follingegaarden, Sweden with very good results. It has been used effectively for coughs in mixtures with Icelandic Moss and Liquorice Root.
Skin, Hair and Body Care: Considered to be good for sensitive, spotty and also oily complexions. Soothes, cleanses and softens the skin and is considered to be especially good for inflammations of the skin and for holding moisture in the skins. Use as a Tincture or strong Decoction in Moisturising and Healing Creams, in Compresses, in Baths, Skin Toners, Hair Treatment, including Hair Packs, and Shampoos.
, Coltsfoot should not be used internally as it can cause liver tumours. Note: the presence of pyrrolizidine alkaloids, which are toxic to the liver in quantity over a prolonged period, require caution for use of this herb. However, normally applied doses used for a short period of time will present little risk if you have no history of liver problems or disease. People should not use Coltsfoot for more than one month consecutively unless on the advice of a qualified herbalist. Preparations guaranteed to be pyrrolizidine-free can be used indefinitely and are preferable.
Coltsfoot’s mucilage from its leaves forms like a gel on the skin and acts as a ‘helpMoisturiser’. The mucilage is actually a carbohydrate-lipid complex capable of holding large amounts of water and so is an excellent hydrator. Because the Coltsfoot molecules are too large to penetrate the skin, and so lie on top of the skin, they help to ‘fill in’ small lines and wrinkles, making the skin look smoother. This also serves to create a protective mucous coat on the skin. Preparation and usage of dried Coltsfoot leaves: Make a strong Decoction of the leaves by boiling the leaves for 10 minutes. For Compresses, Foam Bath Recipes, Creams, Skin Toners, Shampoos and Hair Treatment use 15-20g dried leaves and flowers (if you can obtain the flowers) per 1 litre of water for the Decoction. For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g dried leaves and flowers (if you can obtain the flowers) for the whole bath.
Tussilago farfara 36
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Cornflower Centaurea cyanus
Synonyms: Bachelor’s Button. Parts used: Flowers. Traditional use & history, description and properties: The Blue Cornflower has been the national flower of Estonia since 1968. The Latin name, ‘cyanus’, was given to the Cornflower after a youthful devotee of the goddess Flora (Cyanus), whose favourite flower it was. The name of the genus is derived from the Centaur, Chiron, who taught mankind the healing virtue of herbs. It has long been cultivated as a garden plant, in several colours. Traditionally it has been used to improve digestion, regulate the gall bladder, liver and kidneys as well as for menstrual disorders and to increase resistance to infections. The flower of the Cornflower was taken up in the French Pharmacopoeia since 1884 because of its anti-inflammatory properties, specially used in ophthalmology (diagnosis and treatment of disorders and diseases of the eye) and in treating the area around the eyes.
Main constituents: Bitter principle, flavonoid, glycosides potash salts, chichorigenin, resin and tannins. The tannins are astringent. Cornflower purportedly has an antibiotic effect against staphylococci. Skin Care: Used as a Skin Toner and in Baths for its soothing and astringent effect on the skin as well as for its antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Eye Care: Cornflower’s major application is for the treatment of the eye area and it is used in Eye Baths and Washes for corneal ulcers, conjunctivitis and as a Wash for minor wounds. Add to Eye products such as Gels, since it has a gentle astringent effect, but also soothes inflamed and irritated skin. Oral Care: Cornflower works well as a Mouth Wash for mouth ulcers. Hair Care: Cornflower is also used as Hair Rinse. Some sources claim that it deepens the colour of fair and greying hair. Preparation and usage of dried Cornflower: For Foam Baths, Mouth Washes, Eye Baths and Wound Washes, and as a Hair Rinse, make an Infusion of 15-20g flowers per 1 litre of water. For Shampoos and Skin Toners, use 15-20g per 1 litre of water and use the Infusion instead of water in your Recipe. For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g of the dried flowers (or 200g of the fresh flowers for the whole bath). For Eye Gels, add 1-2% of the Tincture to your Recipes.
Centaurea cyanus - 37 -
Dandelion
Taraxacum officinale
Synonyms: Lion's Tooth, Bitterwort, Wild Endive, Priest's crown, Doonheadclock, Piss-abed, Irish Daisy, Blow Ball, Yellow Gowan, Puffball, Clock Flower, Swine Snout, FortuneTeller, and Cankerwort.
used as a coffee substitute and Dandelion wine is made from the fermented flowers. The first mention of the Dandelion as a medicine is in the works of Arabian physicians of the tenth and eleventh centuries. In medieval times, it was planted in the medicinal gardens of monasteries and 13th-century Welsh medicine praises its properties.
Parts used: Roots and Leaves. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Dandelion has a long history. People have carried the seeds from place to place for cultivation since before written history and the plant’s leaves and roots have been used for centuries to treat liver, gall bladder, kidney, and joint problems.
Today it is popular as a ‘detox’ herb and general tonic, though it is often used in combination with other cleansing and strengthening herbs. It helps to detoxify the body by strengthening the kidneys and liver, cleansing the blood, and stimulating the secretion of bile; thus aiding digestion and acting as a mild laxative and stool softener.
Romans, Gauls and Celts enjoyed young Dandelion leaves as a delicious food. AngloSaxon tribes of Britain and the Normans of France continued to use the plant as food and as medicine to control scurvy and as a diuretic. Dandelion is still eaten today, with the green leaves being used in salads or cooked as a pot herb; flowers are often dipped in batter and fried; dried roots are
It is a powerful diuretic but does not deplete the body of potassium like many diuretics as it itself has a high potassium content. It is used in many countries around the world for the treatment of: gall bladder, kidney and urinary disorders; gallstones; hepatitis; jaundice; cirrhosis; hypoglycaemia; dyspepsia with constipation; oedema associated with high blood pressure and heart weakness; anaemia; chronic joint and skin complaints; gout; eczema; and acne. Dandelion may be taken as an Infusion of the leaf, a Decoction of the root, Tincture or a juice extraction. Fresh leaves may be added to salads. The juice extraction is the most potent for medicinal purposes. Main constituents: Potassium, Sodium, Calcium, Phosphorus and Iron. Leaves: Are a richer source of Vitamin A than carrots and contain some amounts of Vitamins B, C and D. Roots: Bitter glycosides, tannins, triterpenes, sterols, volatile oil, choline, asparagin, and Inulin. Internal use: Used internally for its blood cleansing ability to treat: rashes; psoriasis; eczema; cancers; chicken pox; measles; infections; inflammations; boils; intestinal and breast abscesses; red, swollen painful joints, eyes, and skin; as well as fever. It is a good idea to take Dandelion internally while you are
Taraxacum officinale 38
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Echinacea
Echinacea purpurea treating these conditions with external Skin Care products. External use: Fresh Dandelion juice will fight bacteria and help heal wounds. The plant has an antibacterial action, inhibiting the growth of Staphococcus aureus, pneumococci, meningococci, Bacillus dysenteriae, B. typhi, C. diphtheriae, proteus. Dandelion has reportedly been used to eradicate warts and corns and to soothe calluses, bee stings, or sores. Preparation and usage of Dandelion: The Infusion or Tincture is used in skin preparations for its astringent and detoxifying properties. Add to Creams and Ointments as well as to Baths. For Foam Bath Recipes make an Infusion of 15-20g dried flowers or 150-200g fresh flowers, or 10-15g dried root or 100g fresh chopped root per 1 litre of water.
Synonyms: American coneflower, black Sampson, black Susan, cock-up-hat, combflower, hedgehog, igelkopf, Indian head, Kansas snake root, kegelblume, narrow-leaf purple coneflower, purple coneflower, red sunflower, rudbeckia, scurvy root, snakeroot, solhatt, sun hat. Parts used: Leaves and aerial parts. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Echinacea has a rich tradition of use by North American Plains Indians who used it medicinally more than any other plant. It was introduced into US medical practice in 1887 and was touted for use in conditions ranging from colds to syphilis. It continued to be prominent in modern American medicine in the early 20th century, and was discovered by Europeans, who have used it extensively since the 1930s, when modern research on Echinacea started in the 1930s in Germany. Today millions of Europeans use Echinacea as their primary therapy for colds, ‘flus, infections, and for general immune-boosting effects.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g dried flowers or 400-500g fresh flowers, or 25g dried root or 150-200g fresh chopped root for the whole bath. For Creams and Ointments, add up to10% Tincture to your Recipes.
Echinacea purpurea - 39 -
Preparation and usage of Echinacea:
Echinacea is antibacterial, inhibits the spread of local infections, promotes the healing of wounds that are slow to heal and strengthens the body's natural immune defences against viruses and bacteria. Used externally for infections (persistent sores and formation of pus), boils and other troublesome skin ailments. Echinacea's antibacterial properties can stimulate wound healing and are of benefit to skin conditions such as burns, insect bites, ulcers, psoriasis, acne and eczema. Its antiinflammatory properties may relieve arthritis and lymphatic swelling.
To make an Infusion for use in your Skin Care products use 15-20g dried herb to 1 litre of water. To add Echinacea Infusion to your Creams, Lotions or Skin Toners, replace the water with the Infusion in your Recipes. For Compresses, use 15-20g dried herb to 1 litre of water or 5% of the Tincture diluted in water. Add 5-10% of the Tincture to your Ointment Base.
Used for spots (where there is a bacterial infection) and for staphylococcal and streptococcal infections. Bathe affected area with cotton wool dipped in Lactic Acid (3-4% diluted in water) and apply Echinacea Tincture after 5 minutes. Also used for cradle cap and inflammation of the veins and gums. Echinacea Tincture is used as a Mouth Wash and to massage the gums. Main constituents: Echinacein, approximately 1.2% Essential Oil, Resin, the alkaloid echinacoside 0.1% and other constituents. Also contains betaine, sesquiterpenes, caryophylene, polyacetylene, rosmarinic acid, glycosides, echinacoside, chicoric acid. Skin Care: Considered to regulate and soothe the skin and to enhance overall immunity. Use in Ointments, Creams, Compresses and Toners for wounds, skin regeneration, skin infections, inflammatory skin conditions and conditions such as psoriasis and eczema. It is used primarily in Tincture form, but an Infusion can also be used. The Tincture is handy and easily diluted for use in Compresses to dress (fresh) wounds.
40
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Elderflower Sambucus nigra
Synonyms: Black Elder.
Today, it is also used externally for Mouth Washes and as a Gargle for inflammation and infections of the oral cavity and throat. It is also commonly taken internally as an effective fever-reduction remedy. Make a strong Infusion of the tea and serve or drink at blood temperature.
Parts used: Flowers, picked in June/July. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Popular these days as a cold and ‘flu medicine, the Elder tree has been called 'the medicine chest of the common people' and has been an important folk remedy for centuries. Egyptians discovered that using its flowers improved the complexion while the Greeks used a tea from the root as a laxative. The Roman naturalist Pliny wrote about the therapeutic value of this flowering tree in the 1st century AD, using its generic name Sambucus nigra. Native Americans used Elder internally as a treatment for respiratory infections and constipation as well as externally in Compresses for healing wounds. In 17th century Britain, people drank homemade wine and cordials that were thought to prolong life and cure the common cold. It is still a British favourite today, with many people still making their own Elderflower cordial or wine. In older times, Elderflower was a common ingredient of Facial Waters and Skin Toners.
For an even more efficient fever-reduction method, you can cool down some of the Infusion in the fridge and then apply to the calves in the form of a Cold Compress. Simply soak towels in the cold Infusion and leave them wrapped around the calves for 5-10 minutes. Repeat the process until the body temperature has been reduced to a ‘more healthy’ fever. This method was repeatedly used successfully at Lilly Johansson’s naturopathic hospital in Sweden. Main constituents: The flavonoids (composed mainly of flavanol glycosides) and triterpenes appear to be the main biologically active constituents. Elderflower also contain free aglycones; minerals, mainly potassium; phenolic compounds; triterpene; sterols (volatile oils; mucilage; pectin; plastocynin (protein); sugar, tannins and small amounts of Essential Oil. Skin Care: Elderflower soothes, heals, protects and tones sensitive skin and stimulates its blood circulation. It is particularly good for older, tougher, rugged skin. It softens and evens out wrinkles and eases sunburn. Oily, spotty skins are cleansed, softened and toned. It soothes tender and inflamed skin and certain kinds of eczema. It is used in Baths, Face Toners, Compresses, Masks, Eye Compresses and in Creams and Lotions. It is used in Eye Compresses for swollen and puffy eyes.
Sambucus nigra - 41 -
Eyebright Euphrasia spp Preparation and usage of Elderflower:
Synonyms: Euphrasia.
Make an Infusion of the flowers for use in your Skin care products.
Parts used: Dried aerial parts. Traditional use & history, description and properties: The word ‘Euphrasia’ is of Greek origin, deriving from ‘Euphrosyne’ (gladness), the name of one of the Three Graces who was well known for her joy, mirth and gladness, and these qualities are thought to be given to this plant for the valuable properties attributed to it as a an eye medicine preserving eyesight and so bringing gladness into the life of the sufferer. Although known by the ancient Greeks, it was not until 14th century that it is mentioned for 'all evils of the eye'. In Scotland the Highlanders made an Infusion of the herb in milk, dipped a feather in it and applied it to weak or inflamed eyes. The dried herb is an ingredient in British herbal tobacco.
For Creams, Lotions, Shampoos, Foam Bath Recipes, Face Toners and Eye Compresses, use 15-20g dried flowers per 1 litre of water or 150-200g of the fresh flowers per 2-3 litres of water. For Compresses, use 30-40g dried flowers or 200g of the fresh flowers per 1 litre of water. For Whole Baths use 50-100g dried flowers or 250g of the fresh flowers for the whole bath.
A fluid extract is prepared from the plant in the fresh state, gathered when in flower and cut off just above the root. Euphrasia is best collected in July and August when in full flower and the foliage is in the best condition.
Euphrasia spp 42
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Modern herbalists use this herb for weaknesses of the eyes such as opthalmia, often combining it with Golden Seal is said to be excellent for general eye disorders. Eyebright was and continues to be used by herbalists primarily as a Poultice or Eye Wash for the topical treatment of eye inflammations, including conjunctivitis/blepharitis, styes, the treatment of eye fatigue and other disturbances of vision. Traditionally, a Compress made from an Infusion of Eyebright is used to give relief from redness, swelling, and visual disturbances due to eye infections. It acts specifically on the mucous lining of the eyes and nose and the upper part of the throat to the top of the windpipe and herbalists have recommended Eyebright for problems of the respiratory tract, including sinus infections, coughs, and sore throat. The homoeopathic dose of Eyebright is used to treat hayfever and related conditions.
Preparation and usage of Eyebright: For Eye Baths, use an Infusion made with 1 litre of water per 15-20g dried herbs, or 1-2% of the Tincture diluted in water. If adding Golden Seal Tincture, use maximum 1% plus 1% Eyebright Tincture. Use 1-3% of the Tincture in your Eye Gel or Eye Cream Recipes. Dilute 1-2% of the Tincture in water and apply it directly to the skin around the eyes. Make a strong Infusion of the dried herbs (15g-20g per litre of water), strain it thoroughly and use it as Eye Drops. For general eye problems, you can also drink 15-20 drops of Eyebright Tincture in water 3 times a day as well as using it externally.
Main constituents: Iridoid glycosides, including aucubin. Tannins, both condensed and hydrolysable gallic acid types, phenolic acids including caffeic and ferulic volatile oil. Also contains an unidentified alkaloid, sterols, amino acids and choline. Eye Care: Eyebright Infusion or Tincture is used in Eye Baths for simple inflammation of the eyes. Use 2-4% in Eye Gels or Eye Creams or you can dilute the Tincture (2%) in water and apply it directly onto the skin around the eyes. For puffiness around the eyes, combine with 1-2% Arnica Tincture. For general eye problems, you can alternate Poultices made from Ribwort (Plantain) or Green Cabbage. On alternate nights use a Clay Compress or Horsetail Decoction Compress. Leave the Compresses or Poultices on overnight. Whichever Compress you are using, in the morning rinse your eyes with an Infusion of Chamomile and Eyebright. You can use the same Infusion to rinse your eyes throughout the day if needed.
- 43 -
Ginkgo
Ginkgo biloba Synonyms: Maidenhair tree.
The Extract taken from the Gingko leaves is used for circulation, memory and numerous other reasons and is very effective in aiding the circulatory system. Two Ginkgo trees that were situated near to the atomic bomb blast in Hiroshima are still alive; and when a temple that was destroyed during the blast was rebuilt after the war, it was done so with its staircase around one of the trees, so that it would not have to be disturbed.
Parts used: Leaves and seeds. Traditional use & history, description and properties: The Ginkgo tree first appeared on the earth some 190 million years ago, and since that time it has survived all the changes that have occurred. It is thought that the Ginkgo tree has probably existed on earth longer than any other tree. The tree itself can grow 30 metres in height and to a breadth of 7 metres.
It is used for a wide range of purposes mostly related to its ability to improve circulation and act as an antioxidant. Ginkgo biloba maintains the supply of blood to the brain and other extremities, consequently supplying these areas with more oxygen and sugar for their needs. It is believed to help sustain blood fluidity. It is believed to protect cells from damage because certain active parts have antioxidant effects. , It dilates blood vessels and thins the blood, so should not be used for people with extremely low blood pressure. It is also not suitable for insulin-dependent diabetics.
The tree has beautiful fan-shaped leaves, which have led it to be known as the 'Maidenhair tree'. The fan-shaped leaves are bilobed (the leaf has two lobes); hence, the plant was given the name Ginkgo biloba. The uses of Ginkgo in Chinese medicine date back around 5000 years, and have been well documented over the centuries.
Main constituents: Leaves: flavone glycosides (including ginkgolide) bioflavones, sitosterol, lactones, anthocyanin. Seeds: fatty acids, minerals, bioflavones Skin Care: Ginkgo biloba is known for its great revitalising, stimulating, firming and powerful antioxidant qualities. It has been found to improve circulation by helping to increase healthy blood flow to skin, and is therefore good for bringing nutrients to the skin, ultimately improving the appearance of the skin. All of its qualities make Gingko a good choice to add to anti-aging Skin Care properties. Take the Tincture internally and/or add it to Creams and Gels. For internal use, take 10-15 drops three times a day in a glass of water. Preparation and usage of Gingko: For Creams and Gels, add 5-10% of the Tincture to your Recipes. Ginkgo biloba 44
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Ginseng
Panax ginseng Synonyms: Five-leaf ginseng, Ginseng radix, Hakushan, Hungshengjenseng, Jenshen, Man Root, Oriental ginseng and too many more to mention here.
different parts of plant to the different organs (in colour, shape, etc.) should be used for treatment of these specific organ systems) Ginseng can be used to strengthen any part of the body.
Parts used: Root. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Asian Ginseng has been a part of Chinese medicine for over 2,000 years. The first reference to the use of Asian ginseng dates to the 1st century A.D. Ginseng is commonly used by elderly people in the Orient to improve mental and physical vitality. The word ‘panax’ comes from the Greek ‘panacea’ or ‘all-healing’, while ‘shen-seng’ translates as ‘man-root’ describing what its most useful medicinal part looks like. According to the ‘Doctrine of Signatures’ (theory that states resemblance of
Ginseng acts in the following ways: Adaptogen – adaptogenic herbs increase resistance and resilience to stress, enabling the body to adapt around the problem and avoid reaching collapse. Tonic – nurtures and enlivens the body. They are used frequently in Traditional Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine, often as a preventative measure. Tonic herbs like Ginseng build vital energy, or qi. Ginseng combats the physical effects of stress. Stimulant – quickens and invigorates the physiological and metabolic activity of the body, including the immune system. Hypoglycaemic – decreases blood sugar level. Antioxidant – lowering the levels of free radicals in the blood, contributing to anti-aging effects. Main constituents: Saponin glycosides these are referred to as the ‘ginsenosides’ by Japanese and ‘panaxosides’ by Russian scientists; at least 13 ginsenosides have been isolated; volatile oil, containing b-elemene, a diene panaxynol, and two acetylenic compounds, panaxydol and panaxytriol, falcarinol and falcarintriol; and Vitamins. Note: Siberian Ginseng (Eleutherococcus senticosus) is not considered a true ginseng; instead of a fleshy root, it has a woody root; instead of ginsenosides, eleutherosides are present.
Panax ginseng - 45 -
Horse Chestnut Aesculus hippocastanum
Synonyms: Buckeye, Bongay, Chestnut, Conkers, Conquerors, Eschilo, Fish poison, Hippocastanum vulgare, Hippocastabi folium, Hippocastani semen, Spanish chestnut and many more.
Skin Care: Ginseng is used in natural Skin Care products for its toning and vitalising effects on the skin. Ginseng helps to balance the oil gland production and improves the skin texture by preventing the formation of wrinkles. Add to Toners, Gels, Creams and Lotions.
Parts used: Seeds. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Horse Chestnut leaves have been used by herbalists as a cough remedy and to reduce fevers. The leaves were also believed to reduce pain and inflammation of arthritis and rheumatism. In traditional herbal medicine, Poultices of the seeds have been used topically to treat skin ulcers and skin cancer. Other uses include the internal and external application for problems of venous circulation, including varicose veins and haemorrhoids.
Note: Siberian Ginseng Extract is added to Gels, Creams, Lotions and Skin Toners for its cleansing, rejuvenating, toning, moisturising, anti-wrinkle and skin cell stimulant properties, although it is most effective in Gels. Siberian Ginseng Extract makes an effective combination with Panax ginseng. For internal use, take 10-15 drops of the Tincture three times a day in a glass of water. Preparation and usage of Ginseng in Skin Care products:
Horse Chestnut is still used as an astringent with particular effect on the venous circulation. It is also diuretic and prevents oedema. Aescin, the saponin found in the seeds, has been shown to: promote circulation through the veins; foster normal tone in the walls of the veins, thereby promoting return of blood to the heart; possess antiinflammatory properties; and to reduce oedema (swelling with fluid) following trauma, particularly following sports injury, surgery, and head injury. This has made both topical (externally on the affected area) and internal Horse Chestnut
Add 5-10% of the Panax Ginseng Tincture to your Recipes for Toners, Gels, Creams and Lotions. Add 5-10% of the Siberian Ginseng Extract to your Recipes for Gels, Creams and Lotions. See Aromantic’s Education Pack 2 for more extensive information about Siberian Ginseng Extract.
Aesculus hippocastanum 46
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Horseradish Armoracia rusticana
Synonyms: Red cole.
extracts popular in Europe for the treatment of chronic venous insufficiency and, to a lesser extent, varicose veins. In addition, topical aescin preparation is very popular in Europe for the treatment of acute sprains during sporting events.
Parts used: Root. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Horseradish, known for its pungent taste, has been used as a medicine and condiment for centuries in Europe. Its name is derived from the common practice of naming a food according to its similarity with another food (Horseradish was considered a rough substitute for radishes).
Most important active ingredients: The seeds are the source of a saponin known as aescin (see more in properties below). Horse Chestnuts also contain tannins, oils, resin, pectin, flavonoids and sterols. Internal use: Make an Infusion or take it as a Tincture: 10-15 drops three times a day in a glass of water. Remember to follow the instructions given by the manufacturer or seek the advice of a qualified herbalist when unsure whether to take herbs internally. External use: Horse Chestnut is used externally in Compresses, Baths and Sun Care products. Horse Chestnut is a very important ingredient for treating varicose veins. Add to Creams, Gels and Compresses for this purpose. Aesculin found in Horse Chestnut absorb harmful UV rays, which makes it an excellent addition to your Sun Care products.
Horseradish was utilised both internally and externally by European herbalists. Internally, it was considered to be a diuretic and was used by herbalists to treat kidney stones, urinary infections or oedema. It was also recommended as a digestive stimulant and used for its antibacterial and diuretic effect to treat worms, coughs, bronchitis, toothache, sore throats and even migraines.
Preparation and usage of Horse Chestnut: Use a Tincture or make a Decoction using 15-20g of the dried seeds or 100-150g of the fresh leaves per 1 litre of water by boiling for 10-15 mins and allow to infuse for 30 mins. Use a Decoction (see paragraph above) instead of water in your Foam Bath Recipes. For Varicose Vein Compresses, use a Decoction or 4-5% of the Tincture diluted in water (1 teaspoon to 100ml of water). For Varicose Vein Creams and Gels, add 2-5% Horse Chestnut Tincture. To add up to 10% of the Tincture to Sun Protection Cream, use 10ml of the Tincture per 100ml of the Cream.
Armoracia rusticana
For Whole Body Baths, use 50g-100g dried seeds or 300-400g fresh Horse Chestnut leaves. - 47 -
Preparation and usage of Horseradish:
Main constituents: A number of antibiotic constituents, mainly Essential Oil and other volatile oils. Horseradish contains volatile oils that are similar to those found in mustard. These include glucosinolates (mustard oil glycosides), gluconasturtiin, and sinigrin, which yield allyl isothiocynate when broken down in the stomach. In test tubes, the volatile oils in Horseradish have shown antibiotic properties.
The Oxymel can be made by mixing approximately 100g freshly grated Horseradish Root with 600g honey and 100ml vinegar. Mix it thoroughly and leave to stand for 2-3 weeks. The Tincture is made with 100g freshly grated root to 300-400ml alcohol.
External use: Applied to the skin, it causes reddening and was used on arthritic or painful joints, sciatica, old wounds, irritated nerves or swellings. Horseradish is a very strong antiseptic, and makes an excellent replacement for garlic for those who can’t use garlic for whatever reason. Garlic must never be used on the skin, for example, but Horseradish can be used on the skin.
For Compresses, use 4-5% Tincture diluted in water. A fresh Root Poultice can be prepared by grating the fresh root and spreading it on a linen cloth or thin gauze. You can also use a Horseradish Oxymel instead of the fresh, grated root. This is then applied to the skin once or twice per day until a burning sensation is experienced, at which point it is removed immediately.
For best results use the fresh root, grated or sliced into thin strips or in the form of an Oxymel or Tincture. According to Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine, the combination of vinegar and honey called Oxymel was used as a base for many medicinal herbal formulas. Horseradish Oxymel used in the form of a Poultice is used for sore throats and old wounds. The Tincture or fresh root is used in Poultices for wounds that are difficult to heal. The Tincture is somewhat strong but effective for fresh wounds. Also good for herpetic whitlow (an infection of the herpes virus around the fingernail) and other persistent and complicated injuries.
, If used in amounts higher than
recommended, Horseradish can cause stomach upset, vomiting, or excessive sweating.
, Direct application to the skin or eyes may cause irritation and burning.
, Horseradish should be avoided by
people with hypothyroidism, gastritis, peptic ulcer disease, and kidney disorders.
, Horseradish should not be used by
women during pregnancy or breastfeeding or by children under four years of age.
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The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Horsetail
Equisetum arvense Synonyms: Bottle-brush, Horse Willow, Paddock-pipes, Pewterwort, Scouring Rush, Shave Grass, Toadpipe. Parts used: Whole plant. When collecting Horsetail it is important to gather the right variety (Equisetum palustre is poisonous). Traditional use & history, description and properties: In folk medicine, Horsetail has been used for tuberculosis, profuse menstrual bleeding, brittle finger nails, hair loss, water retention, bed wetting, rheumatic diseases, gout, swelling, fractures, frostbite, and nasal, pulmonary, and gastric bleeding. Reportedly first recommended by the Roman physician Galen, several cultures have employed Horsetail as a folk remedy for kidney and bladder troubles, arthritis, bleeding ulcers, and tuberculosis. In addition, the topical use of Horsetail was used traditionally to stop the bleeding of wounds and promote rapid healing. It is a good spring cleaning detoxification herb. There is evidence that Horsetail builds the immune and nervous systems. It is recommended for urinary tract infections. In addition, the plant can incorporate dissolved gold and other minerals into its structure and is used in Europe as a treatment for arthritis.
Horsetail contains the highest amounts of Silica of all known herbs. In addition to Silica, Horsetail contains large amounts of potassium as well as starch and many fatty acids. Use Horsetail in a Compress for sores, psoriasis, eczema, chilblains and varicose veins. It will soothe and reduce itchiness. Main constituents: Silica (5-8%), saponins (5%), tannins and flavonoid glycosides. Large amounts of silicic acid and silicates (about 15%), flavonoids, phenolic acids, alkaloids (including nicotine) sterols and phytosterols, saponins, bitter principle, minerals (potassium, manganese, magnesium, calcium, chromium, iron, phosphorus, and selenium), tannins. Skin and Body Care: Often called the ‘Beauty Herb’, Horsetail is considered to strengthen connective tissue and skin. It: is clarifying; is astringent; closes the pores; and stimulates production of new skin cells when used to treat eczema. Because of its high silica content the whole plant is used as an abrasive. A strong Decoction is used externally for Baths, Foot Baths and Compresses in the treatment of problematic sores, psoriasis, eczema, athlete's foot and other fungicidal ailments. Hair and Nail Care: Because of its high Silica content, Horsetail is excellent for adding strength, thickness and shininess to hair. Simply add a strong Decoction of Horsetail to your Shampoo recipes. Add to a Hair Rinse and use regularly for an effective tonic against dandruff and fungi. Take internally to improve the condition of your skin and nails. Dental Care: The dried herb is ground to produce an abrasive powder used to remove tartar on the teeth. The Decoction or diluted Tincture is used as a Gargle for throat infections.
Equisetum arvense - 49 -
Hyssop
Hyssopus officinalis Synonyms: None.
A personal note about Horsetail from Kolbjorn Borseth:
Parts used: Aerial parts. i.e. stem, leaves and flowers.
While talking to the retired managing doctor of the Dr. Hauschka skin care company in the 1990s, he very much stressed the use of Horsetail preparations for healing psoriasis, due to the herb’s high silica content. So, I recommend that you always use Horsetail in your products for psoriasis. You can also take silica tablets internally while using external psoriasis products.
Traditional use & history: The name ‘Hyssop’ is derived from the Hebrew ‘ezob’ meaning ‘holy herb’. A member of the mint family, whose flowers and evergreen leaves have long been used as a stewing herb or flavouring for foods and beverages and as a folk medicine, Hyssop reportedly originated in the area around the Black Sea in central Asia and today is widely cultivated in other arid regions, partly because it thrives even in the most desolate soils.
, Don’t pick your own Horsetail without knowing being absolutely sure that you can identify it properly. You may easily mistake it for a poisonous type.
It is found native in the Mediterranean region and is commercially cultivated in Europe, Russia and India. In the past, Hyssop was so highly esteemed it was regarded as a virtual cure-all. Once widely cultivated for medicinal uses, it is now grown mostly as an ornamental shrub. Currently an undervalued medicinal herb, Hyssop is potentially useful, as it is both calming and tonic.
Preparation and usage of Horsetail: Make a strong Decoction that will extract parts of the Silica from the Horsetail. NB The herb has to be boiled for 20-30 minutes so that the Silica is extracted. For Hair Rinses, Shampoos and Foam Baths, use a Decoction made with 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of water.
Hyssop has long been used as a folk medicine for colic, flatulence, and indigestion; or taken as a hot tea for bronchial infections; or used topically on cuts & burns. The antimicrobial properties of Hyssop have been subjected to controlled studies and it is one of the more
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g of the dried herb, or 500g of the fresh herb for the whole bath. For Wet Compresses use 25-30g dried herb per 1 litre of water. For use as an abrasive Tooth Powder, grind the dried herb in a coffee grinder, dip toothbrush into the rough powder and brush teeth. Add the dried ground herb 2-5% to Toothpaste Recipes. For Gargles or Mouth Washes, use a strong Decoction of 25-30g per litre of water or up to 10% of the Tincture diluted with water and/ or other ingredients.
50
Hyssopus officinalis
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
credible medicinal herbs. An ancient medicinal cleansing herb, it was also used for its flavour and aroma to preserve meat. It is mentioned in both the Old and New Testaments of the Christian bible as a cleansing agent, including David’s prayer in Psalms, ‘Purge me with Hyssop, and I shall be clean’. The East Indians knew it, and both the Arabs and Jews venerated the plant. Dioscorides recommended boiling it with rue and honey for a cough. In Sicily it is believed to ward off the evil eye and evil magic. Early 20th century doctors who recommended herbs in the United States used the herb externally to soothe burned skin. Today, France is the major producer of Hyssop and Hyssop is used to flavour various liqueurs, including Chartreuse.
the same way as Sage, with which it is sometimes combined to make a Gargle for a sore throat. Hyssop tea can be used for poor digestion, breast and lung problems, coughs due to colds, nose and throat infections, mucous congestion in the intestines, flatulence, scrofula, dropsy, jaundice, and even asthma. Hyssop serves not only as a culinary herb but in many countries including Hungary, where it is used as a folk medicine against certain respiratory diseases and winter colds. External use - Skin Care: According to famous 20th century herbalist Maurice Mességué, Hyssop contains substances which protect the skin against sunburn so makes and excellent addition to Sun Protection Creams. Hyssop is antiperspirant and astringent, like Sage, and can be used in Deodorants. Used as a Compress for varicose ulcers and other infected sores, which are difficult to heal, and for eczema and burns. Also for fungal infections and insect bites. An Infusion in a Compress together with Arnica makes an effective Compress for treating superficial bruises. Hyssop is used in Whole Body Baths to heal ulcerated or irritated skin.
Possible future uses: Test tube studies have found that certain fractions of Hyssop (one being a polysaccharide designated as MAR-10) may inhibit the activity of the human immunodeficiency virus (HIV). Yet, there have been no studies in humans to determine whether Hyssop or any of its constituents are effective in treating HIV infection or AIDS.
Hair Care: Adding an Infusion of Hyssop to Hair Rinses and Shampoos will help to get rid of lice and also to cure beard itchiness.
, The Infusion and Tincture of Hyssop are unlikely to cause adverse effects. Although the volatile oil present in Hyssop, particularly its constituent pinocamphone, has been reported to cause seizures in laboratory animals as well as in humans. So, Hyssop should not be used for those with epilepsy or any other seizure disorder or during pregnancy. Check with a qualified herbalist to check which doses are safe or whether to make use of it at all.
Oral Care: Use in Mouth Washes and Gargles for inflammation of the oral cavity and throat. Preparation and usage of Hyssop: Make a strong Infusion to use in your products.
Main constituents: Its active constituents are volatile oil, flavonoids, tannins and the bitter substance, marrubin. Also contains 0.3-1% Essential Oil, including thujon, 5-8% tannins, flavonoid glycosides, diterpenoid lactones, triterpenoids, diosmin, oleanolic acid, pinocamphone, isopinocamphone, and hyssopin. , Pinocamphone can cause seizures (see end of Hyssop section for more details).
For Compresses, Washes, and Deodorants, Hair Rinses, Shampoos, Conditioners and Creams and Lotions, particularly Sun products use 15-20g dried Hyssop per 1 litre of water. For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g of dried Hyssop. Use 1% Essential Oil of Hyssop in the same product as you are using the Infusion.
Internal use: Hyssop is used in essentially - 51 -
Lady's Mantle Alchemilla vulgaris
Synonyms: Bear's Foot, Lion's Foot, Nine Hooks, and Stellaria.
Internal use: It is used internally for excessive or irregular menstruation, as well as menopausal problems. Lady's Mantle is a great herb to use in cases of mild diarrhoea and cankers and a Gargle is effective for sore throats. It also has venotonic properties, which makes it useful to treat vascular (vein) problems.
Parts used: Leaves and Root. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Lady's Mantle is a perennial herb found in Europe, North America, and Asia that has been used medicinally since the middle ages. In the medieval period Lady’s Mantle was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The herb came to be known as Lady's Mantle because of the scalloped shape of its leaves, which were thought to resemble the mantle of the Virgin Mary. The crystal dewdrops on the leaves have long inspired poets and alchemists and it is said that they used to the dewdrop to transform lead into gold. That is why the flower is called ‘alchemilla’. It was said to have healing and magical properties, even to preserve a woman's youth.
External use - Skin and Body Care: Used in Skin Care products for its healing effects. It is said to soothe, cleanse and heal dry, sensitive skin. It reduces swellings, is good for chapped and broken skin on the hands and feet. In addition, it has an astringent effect on the skin and protects newly formed elastin fibres. Elastin is required for skin elasticity, and is a protein in the skin, which together with collagen and glycosaminoglycans, makes up the connective tissue. Its astringent properties also make it effective for treating skin with large pores. Its venotonic properties help with vascular health. It can furthermore be used to treat sores (including those on the scalp), septic wounds and inflamed skin such as eczema and psoriasis.
In folk medicine, Lady's Mantle has also been taken for menopausal complaints, painful menstrual periods, mouth and throat infections, eczema, and skin rashes. The leaves can also be boiled to make a light, green dye.
Add Lady’s Mantle to Anti-Wrinkle Creams, Whole Body and Foot Baths, Compresses, Facial Steam Baths, Face Toners and Cleansing Creams and Lotions.
Main constituents: 6-8% tannins, consisting mainly of glycosides of ellagic acid; flavonoids, bitter principles, traces of Essential Oil; and a trace of salicylic acid.
Eye Baths: It is used as Eye Baths for the inflammation of the mucous membrane in the eyes. Oral Care: It is also used as a Mouth Wash after tooth extraction. Preparation and usage of Lady’s Mantle: Make an Infusion to use in your products. For Creams, Lotions, Compresses, Facial Steam Baths, Mouth Washes, Skin Toners, Foam Baths, Shampoos and Eye Baths use 15-20g dried, or 150-200g fresh, herbs to 1 litre of water. For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g, or 5001000g fresh leaves, for the whole bath. NB For treating eczema, leave the herbs in the bath for the best results.
Alchemilla vulgaris 52
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Lavender
Lavendula angustifolia/officinalis Synonyms: English Lavender, True Lavender.
Lavender has been prized for its wonderful perfume since Elizabethan times when it was used for sweetening washing water and disguising smells. The reverence for its perfume still continues today and Lavender Essential Oil is very, very popular for use at home by people who use it for its relaxing properties. Apart from its medicinal uses, it has culinary and cosmetic uses as well. You can use Lavender to make Lavender sugar, jellies, ice cream and vinegars. It can also be crystallised for use as a cake decoration.
Parts used: Flowers. Traditional use & history, description and properties: The name Lavender comes from the Latin root ‘lavare’, which means ‘to wash’. Lavender has been used for centuries as an herbal remedy for its antiseptic, antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, anticonvulsive, as well as antidepressant properties. The Romans introduced Lavender and its uses into England and Europe. They used the flower heads in their communal baths not only for their fragrance but probably also as an antibacterial agent. The ancient Greeks are also thought to have used Lavender for treatment of throat infections and chest complaints. In medieval times herbalists used Lavender to prevent head lice. For many centuries Lavender flowers have been tied into small bundles and placed into pillows or laundry to make them smell pleasant and to keep bugs away.
There is a lot of folklore surrounding Lavender for e.g. the belief that putting the flowers between the bed sheets will ensure that a couple will never quarrel. Lavender is native to the Mediterranean region and is cultivated in large quantities in France, Spain, Britain, Australia, Russia, and Eastern European countries, particularly Bulgaria. Recent studies bear out years of anecdotal evidence showing that Lavender produces calming, soothing, and sedative effects and it is very widely used both internally and externally for a number of reasons. Although it is the Lavender Essential Oil that is most often used, the fresh or dried flowers and the Tincture made from Lavender flowers are all still popular for both internal and external use. The dried flowers are used in sleep and dream pillows, in pot pourris, sachets and tucked in drawers to freshen clothing and repel moths. Main constituents: The most abundant constituents are the Linalyl esters predominately Linalyl-acetate - with lesser amounts of linalyl-butyrate, linalyl-caproate, linalyl-isobutyrate and linalyl-valerate. Also present are linalol, cineole, geraniol, borneol, camphor, pinene, limonene, b-Ocimene, tannins, flavonoids, phytosterols, and caproic acid. The most fragrant and valuable Essential Oil preparations have the highest concentration of linalyl-acetate, sometimes up to 70%.
Lavendula angustifolia/officinalis - 53 -
Internal use: Internally, Lavender as an Infused Tea or as a Tincture, is believed to be of benefit for a multitude of problems, including allergies, asthma, bronchitis, inflammations, throat infections, stress, nervousness, anxiety, palpitations, exhaustion, irritability, headaches, migraines, insomnia, depression, colds, digestion, flatulence, upset stomach, liver and gallbladder problems, nervousness, and for loss of appetite, etc.
Oral Care: Used as a Mouth Wash, it makes an excellent breath freshener. Hair Care: Infusion of Lavender flowers makes a good Hair Rinse to help reduce hair loss and dandruff. Add also to Shampoos. Preparation and usage of Lavender: Add Lavender to Compresses, Whole Body and Foot Baths, Facial Steam Baths, Creams, Ointments, Lotions, Face Toners, Cleansers, Hair products, Deodorants, Mouth Washes and Insect Repellents.
External use - Skin and Body Care: Lavender is considered to be a Beauty product. Lavender has many sedative compounds that can penetrate the skin. Especially good for normal and dry skin, Lavender is also used as a tonic for all types of skin. As a treatment for wounds, the Tincture is considered to be the most effective (contains both the Essential Oil and tannins). When using pure Essential Oil it is best to mix it with an Oil, Lotion or Cream base. A Macerated Oil can be made using the fresh flowers and used as a relaxing Face or Body Massage Oil.
Make an Infusion, then keep the lid on and allow to draw for 30 minutes. Then combine with the Essential Oil or Hydrolate during the making of the product. For Creams, Lotions, Shampoos, Mouth Washes, Cleansers, Toners, Facial Steam Baths, use 15-20g dried flowers per 1 litre of water. For a Whole Body Bath use 50-100g of dried Lavender Flowers or 500-1000g of fresh flower heads.
All types of Lavender have excellent healing properties and it is applied topically to treat cuts, sores, scrapes, sprains, wounds, burns, bee, wasp, and insect stings, rashes, muscle aches, lumbago, rheumatism, arthritis, cold sores, canker sores, fungal infections, acne, eczema, blisters, bruises, athlete's foot, or rubbed directly into the temples in case of headache or migraine. You can also use a Hydrolate and Still Water mixture instead of an Infusion, which is especially effective for treating acne, inflammations, eczema and wounds.
For Baths, Mouth Washes, Compresses, Skin Toners, Insect Repellents and Deodorants, use a strong Lavender Infusion by using 25-30g dried flowers per 1 litre of water or you can use a mixture of 20% Lavender Flower Water (Hydrolate) and 80% water. Use 5-10% Lavender Tincture in Ointments.
A Whole Body Bath is an excellent way to both enjoy the relaxing benefits of Lavender and also to calm skin after too much sun. To maximise the relaxing and soothing effects, combine with Chamomile flowers in an Infusion for the Bath.
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The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Lemon Balm Melissa officinalis
Synonyms: Melissa, Common Balm, Sweet Balm, Balm. Parts used: Whole plant (leaves). Traditional use & history, description and properties: The word Balm is an abbreviation of ‘Balsam’, the chief of sweetsmelling oils. It is so called from its honeyed sweetness. It was highly esteemed by Paracelsus, who believed it would completely revivify a man. It was formerly esteemed of great use in all complaints supposed to proceed from a disordered state of the nervous system. Charlemagne (714-814AD) once ordered Lemon Balm planted in every monastery garden because of its beauty. The London Dispensary (1696) says: 'An essence of Balm, given in Canary wine, every morning will renew youth, strengthen the brain, relieve languishing nature and prevent baldness.' John Evelyn wrote: 'Balm is sovereign for the brain, strengthening the memory and powerfully chasing away melancholy.' Balm steeped in wine we are told again, 'comforts the heart and driveth away melancholy and sadness.' Formerly a spirit of Balm, combined with lemon-peel, nutmeg and Angelica Root, enjoyed a great reputation under the name of Carmelite Water, being deemed highly useful against nervous headache and neuralgic affections.
Today, Lemon Balm is mainly used for its soothing effect, to strengthen the nervous system in cases of depression, melancholy, migraine etc. The Infusion is supposed to be antiviral. Main constituents: Essential Oils (mainly citral and citronellol, eugenol, flavonoids, triterpenoids, rosmarinic acid, ferulic acid, methyl carnosoate, hydroxycinnamic Aacid, polyphenols, and tannins. Skin Care: Effective in Creams and Toners for mildly oily skin. It cleanses and closes open pores, has an astringent and soothing effect when used as a Face Toner or a Facial Steam Bath for tired, sensitive skin. Used externally for pain associated with the nervous system, rheumatic pain, healing of wounds (enhances scar tissue formation) in Compresses, in Baths, Creams and Lotions. Lemon Balm is also used in Baths for melancholy and insomnia. Hair Care: Add to Shampoos for a soothing effect. Tip: Genuine Essential Oil of Lemon Balm is very expensive. All of the less expensive Essential Oils are mixtures containing other Essential Oils with similar constituents, such as citronellol. Preparation and usage of Lemon Balm: Make an Infusion to use in your products. Prepare Infusion, cover with a lid, and allow to draw for 30 minutes. You can also use the Tincture in your products as this is the best way to preserve the Essential Oil content. The Essential Oil evaporates very easily with drying and storage; once gone the herb has a different effect as the tannins become dominant and the soothing effect disappears. For Creams, Lotions, Shampoos, and Foam Baths infuse 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of water, or use 100-110g fresh herb per 2 litres of water.
Melissa officinalis
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g of the dried herb or 400-500g of the fresh herb for the whole bath. - 55 -
Marigold
Calendula officinalis Synonyms: Calendula, Pot Marigold.
Formerly its bright orange flowers were used to give cheese and other foods a yelloworange colour in the absence of saffron. Marigold is an excellent remedy for cuts and wounds, and their antiseptic and healing properties help to prevent the spread of infection and speed up the rate of repair.
Parts used: Flowers. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Calendula is one of the best known and versatile healing herbs and is rich in herbal history, widely used by herbalists throughout the centuries. Calendula is believed to have originated in or near the Mediterranean and is now naturalised all over the world. The herb is also known as common Marigold or ‘pot Marigold’ because the dried flowers were traditionally used in soups and stews to help ward off illness.
Used externally in the treatment of chronic, slow healing sores such as bed sores and varicose ulcers. Also for frostbite, burns and eczema. Marigold, through the combined action of its Essential Oil, which is antibiotic, and other constituents, stimulate the immune system and enhance the body's fight against infection. It rapidly promotes skin tissue repair and minimises scar formation, is antiinflammatory, and promotes granulation. Other key actions of this plant are the following: astringent, heals wounds, antiseptic, antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral, constricts the capillaries, (an action that explains its effectiveness for cuts, wounds, varicose veins, and various inflammatory conditions).
Ancient Egyptians and Romans valued Calendula highly, and, noticing that in their warm, temperate climates it was always in bloom on the first day of each month, called it ‘calends’, after the calendar. It is known as the flower of the sun, with its petals of golden orange. They have also been associated with the sun's journey across the sky because they open when the sun rises and close as it sets. The herbalists Culpeper and Gerard refer to Calendula as a comforter of the heart and spirits. In some traditions, Calendula is a symbol of endurance.
Calendula provides effective treatment for most minor skin problems. It is used for cuts, scrapes, wounds, red and inflamed skin, including minor burns and sunburn, for acne, rashes, and fungal conditions. It is helpful for nappy rash and soothes nipples that are sore from breast-feeding. Also used as a Hot Compress in the treatment of, and to draw out, boils and carbuncles (infection of the hair follicle) and used externally for varicose veins and as a Mouth Wash for gum infections. Main constituents: Essential Oil 0.02%, calenden, calendulin, mucilage, saponins, organic acids, enzymes, resins, carotene pigment xanthophyll, salicylic acid, carbohydrates, cadinol, isorhamnetin, triterpenes, sesquiterpenoids, scopoletin, flavonoids, quercetin, kaempferol. Skin, Hair and Body Care: Used for its healing and tissue regenerating properties for all skin types and conditions, including sensitive skin and for babies. Marigold is good to use in all cases where cell regeneration is
Calendula officinalis 56
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
required such as in cases of sunburn, sores, where skin has been removed and also where the skin is red and irritated. Also good as a regular Wash for spots, acne and boils. Use either a strong Infusion or the Tincture combined with Arnica Tincture for sprains, bruises, burns, frostbite and cold sores.
picked just after opening (not when they are old). Marigold should be picked when the flower is completely dry e.g. at the end of a sunny day. Use them as they are, or dry them, and make a Tincture or Infusion. You can add 2-3% of Marigold CO2 Extract to your products too.
For excellent Healing Ointments, add Marigold Tincture with Marigold CO2 Extract to your Ointment recipe. Due to its carotene content, in Marigold Ointment is excellent for healing chapped skin on hands and feet. The carotene is a powerful antioxidant and so works well to fight the free radicals, the cause of the chapped skin.
, Marigold CO2 Extract will colour your
A simple Marigold Ointment Compress can be made by applying a generous amount of Ointment onto the affected hand or foot, cover it with a cotton gloves or cotton socks, then a plastic glove or bag, and finally with another cotton glove or cotton sock. Leave on overnight, repeat a few nights in a row and you will see an improvement in less than a week. A strong Infusion is helpful for use in Wound Compresses and you can dilute the Tincture in water for an especially effective Wound Wash.
, If you are going to use a Marigold
Compress to help treat eczema, never leave it on the affected area for more than 1 hour as some people may have an allergic reaction to it if left on for a longer period of time.
Hair Care: A Calendula Hair Rinse adds shine to the hair and can also be used to highlight the hair slightly red – simply use a strong Infusion. Oral Care: Marigold makes an effective antiseptic Mouth Wash to treat inflamed gums. Preparation and usage of Marigold: Marigold does not grow in the wild but is very easy to grow. The whole flower head is used,
product yellow.
For use in Foot and Hand Baths, use 15-20g dried flowers, or 100g of fresh flowers, per 1 litre of water. For an Antiseptic Mouth Wash, use a strong Infusion or up to 10% Tincture diluted in water or other ingredients. For Shampoos, Conditioners and Creams, use 10-15g dried flowers, or 80-100g of fresh flowers, per 1 litre of water. In addition to the Infusion, you can add 2-3% Marigold CO2 Extract. Add 3-5% Tincture, or 1-3% CO2 Extract, to an already-made Cream base. For Healing Ointments, add 5-10% Marigold Tincture together with 2-3% Marigold CO2 Extract to your Ointment recipe. For use as a Cleanser or in Compresses, either use or make a strong Infusion by using 15-20g dried flowers per 1 litre of water, or 150-200g of fresh flowers per 2-3 litres of water and use accordingly. For an effective Wound Wash, dilute 3-6% of the Tincture in water. Marigold Tips: In Skin Care products it is a good idea to use the Botanical CO2 Extract and the Tincture or Infusion or so as to gain the benefits of both the fat-soluble (Essential Oil, carotene and resin) and the water-soluble (viscous and saponins) constituents of the plant. The combined action of these constituents produces better results. Genuine Essential Oil of Marigold is not available and what is mistakenly sold as Oil of Marigold is in fact made from Tagetes (African Marigold).
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Myrrh
Commiphora myrrha Synonyms: Gum Myrrh, Sweet Cicely.
stimulate macrophages (key players in the body’s immune system) in test tube studies.
Parts used: Gum Resin and Oil.
Myrrh is an astringent, healing, tonic and stimulant. It is also: a direct emmenagogue; a tonic in dyspepsia; an expectorant in the absence of feverish symptoms; a stimulant to the mucous tissues; a stomach carminative; an appetite and gastric juice stimulant; an astringent wash; an antiseptic for topical use; an antiparasitic used to treat schistosomiasis (also known as ‘bilharzia’).
Traditional use & history, description and properties: The red-brown resin and oil of Myrrh has been used since ancient times as an ingredient in incense, perfumes, etc and in the holy oil of the Jews and of the Kyphi of the Egyptians for embalming and fumigations. It was also used as a remedy for numerous infections, including leprosy and syphilis. In addition, Myrrh was recommended by herbalists for relief from bad breath and for dental conditions. In Traditional Chinese Medicine, it has been used to treat bleeding disorders and wounds.
Studies continue on the potential anticancer and pain-relieving actions of Myrrh resin. Human clinical trials are lacking to confirm most uses of Myrrh and yet it has been wisely used since ancient times.
Myrrh grows as a shrub in desert regions, particularly in north-eastern Africa and the Middle East. The resin obtained from the stems is used in medicinal preparations.
Main constituents: Volatile oil, resin (myrrhin), gum, polysaccharides, benzoates, sulphates, malates, ash, triterpenoids, triterpene acids, and an Essential Oil containing sesquiterpenes and furano sesquiterpenes.
The three main constituents of Myrrh are the resin, the gum, and the volatile oil. All are thought to be important in Myrrh’s activity as a herbal medicine. The resin has reportedly been shown to kill various microbes and to
Oral Care: Myrrh is widely used in oral care for its excellent antibacterial and pain-relieving properties. Use of Myrrh Tincture, Infusion, or diluted Essential Oil as a Mouth Wash or Rinse is good for soothing and helping to heal spongy, infected, inflamed and diseased gums, tooth disease, halitosis, promoting general dental health, ulcerated throat and ulcerative colitis, sore throats; cold sores, canker sores. Myrrh Resin is a common ingredient of Tooth Powders.
Mouth Wash Recipe
(Good for killing bacteria, and fungi such as Candida albicans, increasing the circulation and healing wounds.) 30 ml Myrrh Tincture 20 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil 10 drops Peppermint Essential Oil 5 drops Sweet Fennel Essential Oil Method 1. 2.
Commiphora myrrha 58
Measure ingredients and mix together. Place 5ml of this mixture into a glass of
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Nettle, Stinging Urtica dioica, urens.
Synonyms: Common Nettle, Stinging Nettle.
lukewarm water, stir and then use as a Mouth Wash or Gargle. Skin and Body Care: In addition, Myrrh Tincture is used internally and externally for skin disturbances, including boils. The Tincture has also been used extensively in Wound Ointments and can be used undiluted as a Wound Wash. Add Myrrh Tincture to Skin Care products such as Creams, Lotions and Ointments for mature, dry or chapped skin. Nail Care: As a powerful antiseptic and antifungal, Myrrh is an excellent ingredient for Nail Baths to be used for finger- and toe- nails.
Antifungal Nail Bath Recipe
Excellent for treating fungus nail condition, and is also good for adding to any of your Nail products. 40ml Water 10ml Myrrh Tincture 20 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil 10 drops Myrrh Essential Oil 5 drops Lavender Essential Oil This Nail Bath will last for 1 year without Preservatives. Method 1. Measure and mix together. 2. When ready to use, put some of the solution in a bowl and dip your nails in it for 10 minutes.
Parts used: Whole plant, including the roots, but mainly aerial parts such as leaves are commercially available. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica and the closely related Urtica urens) has a long history of use. The tough fibres from the plant stem have been used to make cloth, and have been traditionally used as a cleansing spring tonic and a nourishing vegetable if gathered when the leaves are young. The plant takes minerals from the soil, making them a good remedy for anaemia; and, with the high Vitamin C content, the iron in the herb is easier to absorb. From ancient Greece to the present, Nettle has been documented for its use in treating coughs, tuberculosis, and arthritis, rheumatism, eczema, gout, and anaemia and for stimulating hair growth. Dioscorides, the 1st century Greek physician, listed a range of uses for Nettle, including the fresh, chopped leaves as a Plaster for septic wounds, the juice for nosebleeds, and the cooked leaves mixed with Myrrh to stimulate menstruation.
Preparation and usage of Myrrh: (See Recipes for Mouth Wash and Nail Care). In addition: Use Myrrh Tincture, Infusion, or diluted Essential Oil or a combination of them all as a Mouth Wash, Rinse or Gargle. Add up to 15% of the Tincture to Creams, Lotions and Ointments. You can also add 0.5% (about 12 drops per 100ml) of Myrrh Essential Oil to your products that already contain the Tincture or Infusion. Use undiluted Myrrh Tincture for an excellent antiseptic Wound Wash. Urtica dioica - 59 -
Main constituents: High chlorophyll content, xanthophyll (yellow pigment), carotene, tannins, carbohydrates, amines (histamine, choline, acetylcholine, serotonin), formic acid, glucoquinones, minerals (including silicic acid, calcium, potassium, iron, chromium, magnesium, and zinc), Vitamins A, B, C, K, protein, mucilage, sterols and phenols (root), flavonoids (including rutin), volatile oil, nitrates (1-3%), 5-HTP.
The Aztecs made medicinal use of the several species native to Mexico. The Aztec Herbal of 1552, recommended sniffing a mixture of crushed Nettles in milk to stop a nosebleed. It also prescribed a combination of Nettles crushed in water and boiled as a Poultice for arthritis. In medieval Europe, diuretics and remedies for joint problems were made from Stinging Nettle. Healers in several traditions used the branches of Stinging Nettle to strike the arms or legs of paralysed patients in order to activate their muscles. This whipping technique, also known a whisking, is used in some healing traditions to stimulate the organs and relieve the pain of sore muscles. Medieval monks would flagellate themselves with Nettle for penance. This was also done by Roman soldiers, but to warm themselves. They are said to have introduced the plant to Britain to help them better adapt to the cold, damp, climate. For stimulating hair growth, the European herbalists recommended combing the hair daily with expressed Nettle juice.
Uses of Nettle: Astringent; anti-allergenic; circulatory stimulant; diuretic; lowers blood sugar levels; nutritive; promotes milk flow (leaf); prevents scurvy; reduces prostate enlargement (root); stops bleeding; tonic. Infusions are taken to stimulate the circulation and to cleanse the system for arthritis, rheumatism, gout, and eczema, as well as to increase milk flow in nursing mothers. Fresh shoots make a revitalising spring tonic and are often used just as a vegetable. Tinctures are used in combination with other herbs for arthritic disorders, skin problems, and heavy uterine bleeding.
The plant has long been valued for its sturdy stem, similar to flax and hemp, which can be used to make fabrics ranging from fine linen to burlap and rope. In the remote Asian mountain kingdom of Bhutan, yarn is made from Himalayan Nettles. It has been said that, up to the 19th century, half of the farmers of Bhutan dressed in Nettle cloth.
Compresses soaked in diluted Nettle Tincture are applied to painful joints, sprains, neuralgia, tendonitis, or sciatic areas. Ointments, Creams and Gels are used to treat haemorrhoids and eczema. Washes are applied to burns, insect bites, and wounds.
Native Americans used it to treat bronchitis and other respiratory problems and for digestive problems, urinary tract disorders, diarrhoea, and gout.
The stinging hairs on Nettle are sharp, polished spines that contain histamine and formic acid, irritating chemicals that are released when the plant comes in contact with the skin. While the hairs, or spines, of the Stinging Nettle are normally very painful to the touch, when they come into contact with an area of the body that is already in pain, the chemicals can actually decrease the original pain. This is why Stinging Nettle is called a counterirritant. Applying juice from the Stinging Nettle to the skin can actually relieve painful Nettle stings or insect bites. Today, many people use it to treat urinary
The common Nettle is one of some 500 species that can be found growing in temperate regions throughout the northern hemisphere, southern Africa, the Andes, and Australia. Young shoots are picked in spring for use as a tonic and vegetable. The aerial parts are harvested while flowering, and the roots are unearthed in the autumn.
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The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
problems during the early stages of an enlarged prostate (called Benign Prostatic Hyperplasia, or BPH), for urinary tract infections, for kidney stones, for hay fever (allergic rhinitis), or in Compresses or Creams for treating joint pain, sprains and strains, tendonitis, and insect bites. In fact, some small but well-designed studies are beginning to confirm that certain traditional uses (particularly to treat BPH and osteoarthritis) have scientific validity, especially when used in conjunction with other anti-inflammatory medications. Plus, recent laboratory studies are offering plausible explanations for the reason that Stinging Nettles might help rheumatoid arthritis, as well as several of the conditions already mentioned. In previous animal studies, Nettle has been shown to relieve pain, have mild antiinflammatory effects, and to lower blood sugar levels. Active compounds in Stinging Nettle may act as expectorants (meaning that it can loosen and break up a cough) and have antiviral properties.
stimulates the blood circulation, reducing the secretion of fat and generally drying out the scalp. Its daily use will incidentally colour the hair a dark, red colour. However, washing the hair with the Infusion works better for this purpose. Kolbjorn’s Tips for Hair Care products: When adding Nettle to Shampoos, Hair Rinses and Hair Packs, its advisable to add herbs with a high saponin content, such as Birch leaves or Horsetail. The saponins open up the pores so that the minerals in the Nettle can penetrate the scalp easier.
Nettle Hair Rinse (Recipe makes approximately 100ml Rinse.) 120ml Vodka 3-4g dried, or 20g fresh, Nettle Leaves 1g dried Birch leaves or 10g fresh Birch leaves 3ml D-Panthenol 1ml/g Sorbitol 10-15 drops Essential Oil (add last) Method for making Nettle Hair Rinse 1. Allow the Nettle to soak in the alcohol for 2 weeks. 2. Shake the bottle every other day during the 2 weeks. 3. Strain off the leaves. 4. Add the other raw materials and bottle. 5. Use 2-3 times a week.
Nettle may also be effective for treating certain individuals with allergic rhinitis (hayfever). This traditional use has had a lot of historical value for individuals. Early studies of people suggest that this historic use is very likely scientifically valid. Skin Care: Used in Compresses, in Lotions and Creams for oily skin, it is cleansing, clarifying and emollient and soothes sensitive skins with surface blood capillaries. The Tincture can have a positive effect on dry, sensitive skins with eczema or allergic rashes. This is because of the antihistamines and sulphur found in the Tincture. Hair Care: Used extensively in Hair Care products where it is supposed to counteract hair loss, prevent and cure dandruff, reduce oily secretions and improve the quality of dry, lifeless hair and stimulate the scalp. Best results for hair care are achieved through Rinses and Hair Packs (better than Shampoos). The Tincture has been used often as an alcohol-based Hair Rinse. It works well for treating dandruff and an oily scalp as it
Preparation and usage of Nettle: When using Nettle in a water solution, it works best when used as a Decoction. To make a Decoction, boil 5-15g of dried Nettle in 1 litre of water, or 50-150g of the fresh leaves in 2-3 litres of water for 10 minutes and then leave for 30 minutes. The Decoction will be very green and will colour Shampoos and Creams.
, Nettle has a strong odour and colour, so
do not use too much and use Essential Oils to mask the smell if necessary and colour the product with your choice of Colour or Pigment.
Use the Decoction or diluted Tincture in Compresses (15-20g per 1 litre of water), Lotions, Creams and Shampoos.
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Orris Root
Iris - florentina, Germanica, or pallida Synonyms: Iris Root.
commercially in Tooth Powders, Toothpastes and snuff because of its pleasant smell. It tempers bad breath. The dried root is good for babies to chew on while teething. The carbohydrates, Essential Oils and tannins work together to produce an astringent, protective and healing effect..
Parts used: Decorticated rhizome. Traditional use & history, description and properties: From ancient times the stately Iris has stood as a symbol of power and majesty. It was dedicated to Juno in Roman times and the Egyptians placed it on the brow of the Sphinx and on the sceptre of their kings, the three leaves of its blossoms typifying faith, wisdom and valour. The Iris flower (‘fleur de lis’) has represented the French monarchy since medieval times.
Iris continues to be used in the preparation of essences for Soaps, Perfumes and Skin Care products (e.g. in Weleda's Iris collection). Is also used as a fixative in Perfumes and pot pourris. Main constituents: Essential oil containing 10% iron (violet-smelling constituent), glycoside (iridin), tannins, more than 50% starches and carbohydrates.
The root has also been extensively used historically as a healing agent for coughs, dropsy, internal parasites and snake bites. It has played a major role in the history of many countries, in magic, religion and medicine. The smell and taste are aromatic. The fresh root contains a sharp, acrid substance which induces vomiting and colic with diarrhoea. This substance is converted when the root is dried. In the past it has been used
Skin and Body Care: Considered to have a positive effect on the moisture content and elasticity of the skin. Mildly refreshing and astringent, it regulates moisture exchange in the skin which helps the skin to rid itself of dead particles and other toxins. Genuine Essential Oil of Orris Root is very expensive. A strong Decoction of the root can be used. Boil with the lid on for 15-20 minutes. For Skin Care products use 20g of the root per 1 litre of water. Add the powdered Orris Root to Peeling Creams and as Peeling Grains to soap. Oral Care: Use Orris Root Powder as it is for a Tooth Powder. Simply dip toothbrush into the Powder and brush teeth. Add 10% of the finely ground root to Toothpaste recipes. Other fragrant ideas: To make your own Iris perfume, you can add 30g of Orris Root powder or 60g of fresh, chopped roots to 100ml of Vodka. Leave for 2 weeks, shaking daily, and then strain. Bottle in a perfume bottle – it’s as simple as that! Orris Root powder is also a lovely choice for fragrant wardrobe sachets or incense, or to use the freshly chopped root in pot pourris.
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Peppermint Mentha piperita
Synonyms: Brandy Mint.
Peppermint is used externally as an antibacterial, astringent and anti-inflammatory for healing wounds. The Essential Oil is used for itchiness (itchy eczema, insect bites). Analgesic (pain-relieving) for headaches and migraines. Its menthol content has a stimulating effect on the skin's cold receptors giving it a cooling (pain relieving/analgesic) effect on the skin.
Parts used: Leaves. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Peppermint is a hybrid of Watermint and Spearmint and was first cultivated near London in 1750. Recognized in the early 18th century, the historical use of Peppermint herb is not dramatically different than its use in modern herbal medicine. Classified as a carminative (prevents and relieves intestinal wind) herb, Peppermint has been used as a general digestive aid and employed in the treatment of indigestion and intestinal colic by herbalists. Peppermint is now cultivated widely, particularly in the U.S. and Europe. The two main cultivated forms are the Black Mint, which has violet-coloured leaves and stems and a relatively high Oil content, and the White Mint, which has pure green leaves and a milder taste. The leaves are used medicinally.
Menthol and Peppermint Oil should be used with care when taken internally especially with children (in whom it can cause respiratory distress). There are many different kinds of Mint all with similar actions, apart from Spearmint, which contains only small quantities of Menthol, and Japanese Mint, which contains a high level of Menthol. The Essential Oil is widely used in foodstuffs, natural products, sweets and chewing gum. It is used to flavour Toothpaste and in Mouth Washes for its pleasant taste and smell and for its antibacterial properties. It is valuable in the treatment of Irritable Bowel Syndrome (combination with Caraway Oil); strokes; periodontal disease; shingles; chronic candidiasis; colic; common cold; gallstones; injuries, infections; inflammations; back pain; painful attacks of gout and rheumatism; and as a Gargle for painful gums and teeth. Main constituents: 1-3% Essential Oil (5080% menthol), 3-12% tannins, bitter principles, flavonoid glycosides and carotene. Approximately 0.1–1.0% volatile oil which is composed primarily of menthol (29–48%) and menthone (20–31%).
Mentha piperita
Skin Care: Peppermint cools, refreshes, stimulates and revitalises. It is considered to restore elasticity to the skin, to tone tissue, close pores, reduce swellings, counteract bad smells, reduce redness and irritation and clarify the skin. Peppermint Water (a Hydrolate) is often used in combination with the Essential Oil and an Infusion of the dried herb. The Hydrolate diluted in water used as a Skin Toner is especially effective for oily and large pored complexions. It is also commonly - 63 -
Plantain
Plantago major L. Synonyms: Ribwort. (This is NOT the banana-like vegetable of the same name.)
used for its cooling and soothing qualities in Ointments and Creams for the feet. An Infusion used in Whole Body Baths is excellent for treating itchy skin.
Parts used: Leaves. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Plantain leaf has a long history of traditional use as a medicine, dating back to ancient Roman and Greek times. The leaves, seeds, and roots are highly mucilaginous and Plantain has a rich history of traditional use, particularly in the treatment of: sores; wounds; cuts; and skin ailments and inflammations of all types including eczema and dermatitis; insect bites; diseases related to the respiratory organs, digestive organs, reproduction, and circulation; cancer; earache; for pain relief; and infections.
Summer Skin Care products: Add a strong Peppermint Infusion along with Peppermint Essential Oil and Aloe Vera to your Cooling Summer Creams, Lotions and Gels and in Creams for treating itchy skin. Eye Care: Use a Peppermint Infusion, once cooled, as a soothing, cooling Eye Compress. Around the house: A strong Peppermint Infusion or the Hydrolate both make a cooling and uplifting Air Freshener Spray. Kolbjorn’s Peppermint Bath Tip… Due to its menthol content, Peppermint has a cooling effect in a Bath. It is wise to use it with caution in a Bath as the menthol can make you feel cold. So it is therefore only recommended for itchy skin.
In addition, it was considered by herbalists to be a gentle, soothing expectorant and was most used traditionally internally to suppress coughs and soothe mucous membrane inflammation associated with bronchitis, colds and upper respiratory congestion. These green, weedy plants are native to Europe and Asia, but now grow practically anywhere in the world where there is sufficient water.
Preparation and usage of Peppermint: For most products, use either the Essential Oil, the Hydrolate or a strong Herbal Infusion, or a combination of them. To make an Infusion for Foam Baths and Compresses use 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of water or 150-250g of the fresh herb per 2-3 litres of water. For Whole Body Baths, use 50g of the dried, or 200-250g of the fresh, herb for the whole bath. To make a Skin Toner, dilute a maximum of 20% Hydrolate with water. Add up to 5-6% Tincture and 0.5% Essential Oil to Foot Ointments and Creams. For Cooling Summer Creams, Lotions and Aloe Vera Gels and in Creams for itchy skin, use 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of water or 150-200g of the fresh herb per 2 litres of water (allow to infuse for 20 minutes) together with Peppermint Essential Oil.
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Plantain should not be confused with the banana-like vegetable of the same name. The leaves of Plantain are primarily used as medicine. The seeds of Plantain can also be used medicinally, having mild laxative effects similar to the seeds of psyllium, a close relative of Plantain.
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Main constituents: 2-6.5% mucilage; 6.5% tannins; iridoid glycosides; phenylethanoids; over 1% silicic acid; phenolic carboxylic acids; flavonoids; vitamins A, C, and K and several minerals, including calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, phosphorous, zinc, copper and cobalt.
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Today, Plantain is used in much the same way as it has been traditionally has with more uses: Internal use: Used as a special children’s remedy for coughs and diarrhoea; for postpartum bleeding or haemorrhaging; it is also mentioned in many European pharmacopoeias as an emollient and for curing inflamed gums. Its mild astringent effect is said to help remedy haemorrhoids or bladder infections with mild amounts of blood in the urine; coughs; asthma; bronchitis; ulcers; diarrhoea; haemorrhoids; cystitis; liver tonic; ulcers, including malignant ulcers; and hayfever. External use - Skin Care: Plantain is an effective topical treatment for a number of conditions, namely: wounds of all kinds – particularly effective at removing the itch from bites and the sting from cuts and grazes (Poultices, Gels, Creams); most skin disorders including psoriasis, cracked skin, eczema, and pimples (Creams, Gels, Baths); haemorrhoids (Ointments, Creams, Gels); nappy rash (Ointments, Creams, Baths, Gels); minor burns including mild sunburn (Compress, Oils, Creams, Gels); insect bites (Creams, Poultices, Gels); Conjunctivitis (Eye Washes); gum disease and inflammation, and mouth ulcers (Mouth Washes). Kolbjorn’s Tips for Plantain Poultices: x If you pick your own Plantain leaves, be sure they haven't been sprayed with chemicals and remember to thoroughly
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rinse the earth or dirt from the leaves before using them in Poultices. This is very important. When using fresh leaves as a Drawing Poultice on a wound, use the underside of the leaves (the side that grows towards the ground and on which the veins are visible) in the first stage of the treatment. Once the infection has been drawn out, apply the top side of the Plantain leaf to the wound. This side of the leaf stimulates the wound to heal. Another way to use the leaves as a Poultice, is to put the leaves in a blender and apply the green ‘porridge’ to the affected area, cover with a cotton cloth, then clingfilm, and lastly wrap with a stretch bandage. Some prefer to mash, chop or blend the leaves; others prick the leaves with a needle before using them as a Poultice. You can also use the dried leaves for Compresses during winter. Simply moisten them before use on the skin.
Preparation and usage of Plantain: For Creams, make an Infusion by using 15-20g per litre of water and use instead of water in the Cream Recipe. For Drawing Poultices: finely chop or blend a Plantain leaf then mix with a pinch of cayenne powder. Apply directly to the affected area and bandage lightly. Change every 4 hours. Whole leaves can also be used for Drawing Poultices – see Kolbjorn’s second Tip above. For Oils and Ointments, use up to 10% of the Tincture. For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g dried herb or 500-1000g fresh leaves for the whole bath. NB For treating eczema, leave the herbs in the bath for the best results. For Eye Washes, use an Infusion (10-15g dried leaves per 1 litre of water). For Mouth Washes, use up to 10% of the Tincture diluted in water or other ingredients of your choice; or use a strong Infusion along with other ingredients of your choice.
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Rose
Rosa alba, Rosa centifolia, Rosa gallica, Rosa damascena having special properties, namely sweet, cool, pungent and yet slight bitter. In that tradition it is prescribed as a cooling tonic for a variety of conditions i.e. as a heart tonic, to combat fatigue, lethargy, muscular aches, biliousness, itching, and heat, as well as improving digestion and metabolism and helping to heal pimples and old blemishes.
Synonyms: There are many synonyms for the different types of Roses – too many to list here. Parts used: Flowers and buds. There are several different varieties of Rose and all of them can be used, although different varieties will have different properties. Red rose petals of Rosa gallica, for example, are mildly astringent. Pale Rose petals are obtained from the cabbage rose, Rosa centifolia, and contain a small quantity of volatile oil and a trace of a bitter principle, to which slightly purgative properties have been attributed.
Western herbal medicine doesn’t use the Rose petals in the same way as Ayurveda does, but it has been used for many medicinal purposes in the past, namely as a heart, stomach, and liver tonic and a remedy to prevent vomiting, stop tickling coughs and to heal consumption. Rose Baths have also been used to ease rheumatic and joint ailments.
Traditional use & history, description and properties: Sappho, the Greek poetess, writing about 600 BCE, selected the Rose as the Queen of Flowers and perhaps no flower is more recognizable and no aroma more evocative than that of the Rose. Its rich fragrance has perfumed human history for generations, from ancient Persian gardens, where the Rose was probably first cultivated, to extravagant Roman banquets whose revellers feasted amongst soft piles of Rose petals. Fresh Roses were also macerated in hot fat to produce fragrant pomades in ancient India, Greece and Egypt.
Main constituents: Essential Oil 0.02-0.03% with other constituents, tannins, glycosides and pigments. It contains more than 300 known compounds, yet the main chemical components of Rose Oil can be listed as: citronellol, phenyl ethanol, geraniol, nerol, farnesol and stearpoten with traces of nonanol, linalol, nonanal, phenyl acetaldehyde, citral, carvone, citronellyl acetate, 2phenylmenthyl acetate, methyl eugenol, eugenol and rose oxide.
The healing tradition associated with the Rose is no less remarkable than its fragrance and beauty. The 17th-century English physician Culpeper wrote that red Roses strengthen the heart. He may have been referring to a physical action, but anyone who has inhaled fresh roses or their Essential Oil knows that the aroma strengthens the heart emotionally, and on a deeper level, as well. Culpeper attributed other properties to the Rose that foreshadowed its current use in aromatherapy and cosmetics. He recommended extract of Rose for its cooling and astringent benefits, useful for headache and tired eyes. He also suggested an Ointment of Roses to ‘cool and heal ‘pushes’, wheals and other red pimples rising on the face’. Rosa alba, Rosa centifolia, Rosa gallica, Rosa damascena
Today, Ayurvedic medicine recognises Rose as 66
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Skin Care: Rose Oil, Rose Water and an Infusion made from Rose Petals are used in Skin Care products for tender, dry, sensitive skin and have a cleansing, astringent, toning, moisture retaining, stimulating, antibacterial, healing and soothing effect. When Rose is included in a Cream or Lotion, it stimulates and protects the skin, while moisturising and hydrating it. It gives a boost to all skin types, and is particularly beneficial to dry, mature and sensitive skin. Of course, Rose has the added benefit of its wonderful fragrance, which makes it popular in Skin Care products. It helps to reduce skin redness, fight inflammations, as well as to fix broken capillaries on the skin. It also acts as a general skin tonic with its astringent properties. Rose has remarkable harmonising and balancing Skin Care qualities and Rose petals have long been used for softening and rejuvenating skin. A Wash made from strong Infusion of Rose petals is excellent for treating acne, blackheads, small sores, bumps, oedema and boils. Rose Water (Hydrolate), recovered from the distillation of Rose Essential Oil, is mildly astringent and beneficial for cleansing and refreshing dry, sensitive skin. Hair Care: Use Rose petal Infusion or the Hydrolate as a substitute for water in your Shampoo or Hair Rinse Recipes.
Preparation and usage of Rose: If making an Infusion from the Rose petals, use the amount recommended for each product and allow to stand for approximately 20-30 minutes before using. Rose Water (Hydrolate) and Rose Essential Oil (Rose de mai or Rose Otto) can also be used either in combination with the Rose Infusion, or on their own. For Foam Baths and Shampoos, use a strong Infusion plus Essential Oil. To make the Infusion, use 15-25g dried Roses per 1 litre of water, or 150-250g fresh Rose petals per 2-3 litres of water. For Whole Baths use 50-60g dried, or 500600g fresh, Rose petals, for the whole bath. For Face Washes, Eye Washes and Skin Care products such as Creams, Lotions, etc use 1520g dried Roses per 1 litre of water, or 150200g fresh Rose petals per 2-3 litres of water. When making an Infusion of Rose petals, add Lactic or Ascorbic acid to deepen the red colour of the Infusion. Adding alkaline raw materials make it blue to green. For a Room Spray or Skin Toners, just add Rose Hydrolate to a bottle with a spray cap. You can also mix it with smaller amounts of other Hydrolates according to your preference.
Eye Care: Use the Infusion in an Eye Compress to reduce swollen skin around the eyes.
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Rosemary
Rosmarinus officinalis Synonyms:: Rosmarinus prostratus, Rosmarin, Old Man.
weak heart, reducing palpitations; a good remedy for dropsy and for headaches caused by feeble circulation. It has also been used historically for culinary purposes and in Oil for muscle liniments.
Parts used: Leaves. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Traditionally, Rosemary has been used by herbalists to improve memory, relieve muscle pain and spasm, stimulate hair growth, and to support the circulatory and nervous systems. It is also believed to affect the menstrual cycle, act as an abortifacient (inducing miscarriage), relieve menstrual cramps, increase urine flow, and reduce kidney pain (for example, from kidney stones).
Its use as a massage remedy to treat rheumatism and sciatica goes back 700 years ago. In Hungary, in 1235, Queen Izabella was stricken with a paralysing illness. A hermit came to court with a preparation of Rosemary steeped in distilled wine [Rosemary Tincture], which cured her. The rumour spread throughout Europe of the benefits of this ‘water’ and it became popular with its use expanding for the treatment of gout and baldness too.
Rosemary has long had a reputation for strengthening the memory. On this account it became the emblem of fidelity for lovers. Not only was it used at weddings, but also at funerals, for decking churches and banqueting halls at festivals, as incense in religious ceremonies, and in magical spells. Rosemary was one of the cordial herbs used to flavour ale and wine and was said to be quieting to a
Main constituents: 1-2% Essential Oil, approximately 8% tannins, saponins, bitter principles and flavonoid glycosides, borneol, iso-bornyl acetate, carnosol, cineole, pinene and camphor, linalol, rosmanol, terpeniol and verbinol, rosmarinic acid, flavonoids, and limonene. Internal use: Rosemary is still used as a culinary herb; for increasing circulation; as a muscle relaxant; for reducing headaches; to treat colic; to treat colds; to treat nervous conditions; to improve food absorption by stimulating and soothing the digestion, the liver, the intestinal tract, and the gallbladder and to treat stomach cramps and flatulence; as a menstrual tonic; as a tonic, invigorating herb; for its antibacterial and antifungal properties; as an antioxidant (for medicinal use and as a preservative in food and cosmetics); for its antispasmodic effects; in the preparation of Eau-de-Cologne; and as an ingredient in Benedictine. Rosemary and Coltsfoot leaves are considered effective when rubbed together and smoked for asthma and other throat and lung problems. Recently, Rosemary has been the object of laboratory studies investigating its potential in the prevention of cancer and its antibacterial properties.
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External use: Used externally primarily for its stimulatory effect in increasing blood circulation in the skin which can affect the body in many ways. Used in aromatherapy (Essential Oil only) as a stimulus for nervous disorders (poor memory, heart and circulatory problems), for gout and muscular aches. It is warming, slightly analgesic and is also used for headaches, tiredness, disturbances of the circulatory system and to increase virility. Use of undiluted Essential Oil of Rosemary on the skin for prolonged periods can produce extensive rashes and blisters. Rosemary is used as a fragrant additive in Soaps, Shampoos, Creams and other cosmetics. Skin Care: Considered to stimulate blood circulation and to restore elasticity to the skin, Rosemary is also effective for lifeless and oily skin, for blackheads and spots (antibacterial). An Infusion can also be used as an invigorating Skin Toner and astringent. Rosemary added to a Bath strengthens and refreshes, especially when used following an illness. Make a very strong Infusion and combine with 10ml Arnica Tincture and add to Whole Body Baths to treat oedema and swollenness due to sprains and bruises. A strong Infusion (without the Arnica) is excellent for easing joint pain. Use an Infusion for bathing wounds; it is especially effective for infected and hard-toheal wounds. Apply also to insect bites, burns and eczema. Hair Care: It is used in Hair Care products to counteract dandruff, hair loss, and for oily hair. Use an Infusion as a Hair Rinse to lighten blond hair, and to condition and tone all hair. It has long been used in Shampoos and traditional Hair Lotions to promote hair growth and to prevent premature baldness by increasing the circulation in the scalp, thus improving nourishment to the hair follicles. Oral Care: Rosemary is also used in Toothpastes, Mouth Washes and Gargles as an antibacterial, antiseptic, astringent and
healing agent. The Mouth Wash or Gargle can help to treat sore throats, gum problems, and canker sores. Make a refreshing, antibacterial Mouth Wash by adding 5-10% Myrrh Tincture to a strong Infusion of Rosemary. Around the home: Make a refreshing and stimulating Air Freshener Spray by using either Rosemary Hydrolate on its own or combining it with a strong Rosemary Infusion. Preparation and Usage of Rosemary: It is added to and used in Baths, Steam Baths, Compresses, Ointments, Liniments, Creams, Mouth Washes, Shampoos, Conditioners, Hair Packs, etc. It is primarily the Essential Oil which is used but in Skin, Body and Hair Care products it can be beneficial to use both a strong Infusion of Rosemary (contains saponins and tannins) and Rosemary Essential Oil. For Foam Baths, use Rosemary Infusion in your Recipes. To make the Infusion, use 2025g dried Rosemary per 1 litre of water or 200-250g of fresh Rosemary per 2-3 litres of water, plus Rosemary Essential Oil. For Whole Body Baths, use 25g of the dried, or 100g fresh, leaves for the whole bath. For Compresses or Wound Washes use 1015g dried Rosemary leaves per 1 litre of water or 50-100g of fresh Rosemary leaves per 2-3 litres of water plus Rosemary Essential Oil (just a few drops). For Skin Care products such as Creams and Lotions and for Shampoos, add an Infusion and Rosemary Essential Oil (just a few drops) to your Recipes. To make the Infusion, use 1015g dried Rosemary per 1 litre of water or 50-100g of fresh Rosemary per 2-3 litres of water. For Mouth Washes or Gargles, use either a strong Infusion (use 15-20g dried Rosemary per 1 litre of water or 80-100g of fresh Rosemary per 2-3 litres of water) or up to 10% of the Tincture diluted in water or other ingredients of your choice. - 69 -
Sage
Salvia officinalis Synonyms: Garden Sage, Red Sage, Broadleaved White Sage, Narrow-leaved White Sage.
Kolbjorn’s Rosemary Tincture-making Tip: To make your own Rosemary Tincture:
Parts used: Leaves, which can be picked both before and after flowering.
Step 1 In a glass jar, add 10-15g of dried, or 50-60g of fresh, Rosemary leaves to 100ml Vodka.
Traditional use & history, description and properties: The botanical generic name for all the Sage family is derived from the Latin ‘salvere’, to save, cure or thrive, a lasting testament to its ancient reputation as a medical cure-all. Sage has one of the longest histories of use of any culinary or medicinal herb. So strong was the faith in Sage that, by around the 10th century CE, it had acquired the reputation of being able to confer immortality.
Step 2 Leave in the glass jar and shake the mixture vigorously once a day, every day for 2 weeks. Step 3 Then strain. It is ready to use and will keep for 2-3 years.
Sage was the herb originally used in Europe for making tea long before the introduction of Indian tea and the Chinese traded their own green tea with the Dutch in return for supplies of the herb. The Chinese healers considered it to be strengthening to the digestive system and calming to the nerves. It was used by herbalists externally to treat sprains, damaged tissue, swelling, ulcers,
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chilblains, bruises, ringworm, fungicidal attacks and bleeding. Internally, a tea made from Sage leaves has had a long history of use to treat sore throats and coughs - often used as a Gargle. It was also used by herbalists for rheumatism, excessive menstrual bleeding, and to dry up a mother’s milk when nursing was stopped. It was particularly noted for strengthening the nervous system, improving memory, and sharpening the senses. Sage was officially listed in the United States Pharmacopoeia from 1840 to 1900.
An unpublished, preliminary German study with people suffering from excessive perspiration found that either a dry leaf extract or an Infusion of the leaf reduced sweating by as much as 50%. This cooling property also makes it an ideal remedy for fevers and flushes, especially those experienced during the menopause.
Sage has had its cosmetic uses too; the ancient Romans used a strong Infusion of the herb to darken their hair. It has also been used for moth proofing. Sage is very attractive to bees and Sage honey is highly regarded by aficionados. Native to the Mediterranean region, Sage is now grown in all of Europe and North America.
, Because of its thujone content, it is advised not to use too much during pregnancy and in not too large an amount on a regular basis for all. Even when consumed in small amounts for long periods of time, thujone may cause increased heart rate and mental confusion. Very high amounts may lead to convulsions or epileptic fits. Sage should be avoided when fever is present. Extracts of Sage made with alcohol are likely to be higher in thujone than those made with water. These concerns do not extend to the use of Sage as a Gargle or Mouth Wash.
Main constituents: 0.5-2.5% Essential Oil (30-50% thujone), tannins, saponins, flavonoid glycosides, monoterpenes, carnosol, rosmanol, rosmarinic acid. Internal use: Infusion or Tincture of Sage has antiseptic and antibacterial properties and has traditionally been used as a Mouth Wash to cure mouth ulcers and gum infections and as a Gargle for sore throats. Some herbalists use Sage to aid digestion of heavy, rich foods and can help to combat a tendency to sweating. Sage is also approved in Germany for mild gastrointestinal upset and excessive sweating.
External use: Sage is an astringent and has an antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral effect. Also for washing, bathing and wrapping varicose ulcers and other sores, which do not heal easily. Skin and Body Care: Use Sage for: treating oily, spotty skin and for wrinkled, sagging complexions (Skin Toners, Lotions, Creams, Gels); cleansing, stimulating blood circulation, closing pores and restoring elasticity (Skin Toners, Cleansers, Lotions, Creams, Gels); treating eczema, spots and rashes (Skin Toners, Cleansers, Lotions, Creams, Gels); antibacterial properties in Deodorants, as well as Baths for treating sweaty feet. It is astringent and the thujone is antibacterial and antiperspirant (it takes about 1 hour for it to become effective). Sage Oil inhibits the action of glands like the sweat and saliva glands. Hair Care: Sage helps to prevent hair loss by strengthening and disinfecting the scalp. (Hair Rinses, Shampoos and Conditioners). When used as a Hair Rinse it may darken the colour of the hair (not everybody’s hair responds to this). Oral Care: The Infusion or diluted Tincture is used as an excellent antiseptic Mouth Wash and Gargle for inflammations of the oral cavity and throat. Preparation and usage of Sage: For Foam Baths, Compresses, Face Washes and Sore Washes use approximately 10-12g dried leaves per 1 litre of water or 30-40g of fresh leaves per 2-3 litres of water. For Whole Body Baths use 20-25g dried, or 70-100g fresh, Sage for the whole bath.
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St. John's Wort Hypericum perforatum For Lotions, Skin Toners, Creams, Gels and Shampoos, use an Infusion in your Recipe. To make the Infusion, use 8-10g dried leaves per 1 litre of water or 30-35g of fresh leaves per 2-3 litres of water.
Synonyms: Amber touch-and-heal, Balm of warrior’s wound, Devil’s scourge, Lord God’s Wonder plant, Hierba de San Juan, Witcher’s herb, Hypericum millepertuis, etc. Parts used: Aerial parts or if for a Macerated Oil, then only the flowers, or justopened buds of the flowers.
For Mouth Washes or Gargles, use a strong Infusion (15-20g of dried Sage per 1 litre of water or 40-60g of fresh leaves per 2-3 litres of water) or up to 10% of the Tincture diluted in water and/or other ingredients of your choice.
Traditional use & history, description and properties: This plant is named for St. John, the Baptist, and the word ‘wort’ comes from an Old English word meaning ‘root’. Sometimes called the 'sunshine herb', it has a 2400-year history of safe and effective usage in folk, herbal, and ancient medicine. Hippocrates himself prescribed Hypericum as medicine. In ancient Greece, St. John’s Wort was used to treat many ailments, including sciatica, fever (refer to Elderflower in this Guide) and poisonous reptile bites. In Europe, St. John’s Wort was used by herbalists for the topical treatment of wounds and burns.
For Deodorants use a strong Infusion and/or Essential Oil of Sage and other Essential Oils such as Lemon and Lavender. To make the strong Infusion, use 15-20g dried leaves per 1 litre of water or 40-60g of fresh leaves per 2-3 litres of water. For Hair Care products use both the Infusion and Essential Oil. There are several varieties of Sage. Kolbjorn’s Tip for buying dried Sage… When buying the herb always buy the kind which contains thujone, recognisable by the smell of Sage associated with the culinary herb.
Recipe for Sage Mouth Wash 10ml Sage Tincture 5ml Myrrh Tincture 5ml Marigold Tincture 1ml Peppermint Essential Oil 1ml Tea Tree Essential Oil 10 drops Sage Essential Oil Method 1. 2. 3.
Measure and mix together. Place a teaspoon of this blend in a glass of lukewarm water. Gargle well.
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It is also a folk remedy for kidney and lung ailments as well as for depression. Ancient Europeans believed it had magical protective powers against disease and evil. It is native to many parts of the world, including Europe and the United States of America. In more recent times, St. John's Wort achieved instant fame in the USA and in Europe when clinical studies confirmed its effectiveness in the treatment of mild-tomoderate depression. The news came as no surprise to herbalists, who have long used St. John's Wort not only for depression, but also for the treatment of wounds, burns, injured nerves, inflammations, ulcers, anxiety, and other ailments. In Germany, more than fifty percent of depression, anxiety, and sleep disorders are treated with St. John’s Wort. According to Norman Rosenthal, the author of ‘St. John's Wort: The Herbal Way to Feeling Good’, St. John’s Wort enjoys more than ten times the sales than Prozac. The herb has also been shown to help people with seasonal affective disorder (SAD), a common form of depression believed to be caused by lack of light during autumn and winter. Recent research suggests that St. John's Wort has potential in the treatment of premenstrual syndrome (PMS), obsessive compulsive disorder, menopause symptoms, and viral infections. Main constituents: St John's Wort contains about 50 active constituents, but research indicates that the pigment, hypericin, which is found in the flowers, is the ingredient that can help depression. The other major constituents in St. John’s Wort include Essential Oil (Oleum hyperici), dianthrones, flavonoids, xanthones, tannins (mainly found in the leaves), glycosides, saponins and hyperforin. Numerous studies show that hypericin appears to act similar to drugs that are Monoamine Oxidase (MAO) inhibitors and selective serotonin-reuptake inhibitors, elevating mood and acting as a mild sedative.
Skin Care: St. John’s Wort soothes irritations of the skin, with generally beneficial effects as the herb has calming properties. St. John's Wort is mostly used externally in the form of a Macerated Oil, an Infusion or a Tincture, but these preparations are increasingly been added to Creams and Ointments. In Skin Care products it is advantageous to use both the Macerated Oil and Infusion so as to benefit both from the water- and fatsoluble constituents. The active constituent hypericin is found in the flowers and is what gives the Macerated Oil its characteristic red colour or this can be reddish brown if olive oil is used for extraction. Many of the St. John's Wort Oils available for sale are a green colour (e.g. those extracted with CO2). This is because the whole plant is used, which means the chlorophyll content is higher and the hypericin content lower. The plant has also generated intense scientific interest because of its potential as an antiviral, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and astringent agent. It is particularly effective when applied topically (in the form of an Ointment, Cream, or Gel) for the treatment of sunburn, first degree burns, cuts, scrapes, bruises, boils, minor skin irritations and inflammations, eczema, rheumatic and muscular aches and pain associated with the nervous system, e.g. myalgia. St. John's Wort Cream, Ointment or Gel can also soothe the pain, burning and itching of haemorrhoids. To treat oral herpes (herpes simplex), apply the St. John’s Wort Tincture to the lips and sit out in the sun for a while. Ways to use St. John’s Wort Macerated Oil: The Macerated Oil is excellent for sensitive skin, easily irritated skin and infected acne or spots. For a warming effect for stiff and tense muscles, neuro-inflammations, sciatica, and back pain massage with warm St. John’s Wort Oil or use warm Oil soaked in a cotton cloth as a warm, relieving Compress. - 73 -
Thyme
Thymus vulgaris Synonyms: Common Thyme, Garden Thyme, Rubbed Thyme, French Thyme.
For a cooling effect - which is appropriate when stretching cramped or pinched muscles and easing pain - use unheated Macerated Oil in a Compress or to massage the affected area.
Parts used: Leaves and Flowering Tops. Traditional use & history, description and properties: This valuable and still wellused culinary and medicinal herb was known to the Sumerians and used by the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans as a flavouring agent and as a fumigant (in incense), but became known in the 17th century as a treatment for lung diseases and digestive disorders. The herbalist Nicholas Culpeper (1616-1654) praised Thyme as ‘a notable strengthener of the lungs’. The name is derived from ‘thumus’, the Greek word for courage. In medieval times, knights wore sprigs of Thyme on their armour as a sign of courage. The scent of Thyme was thought to give them strength in the midst of battle, as well as relief from pain.
As St. John’s Macerated Oil is antiviral as well as pain-relieving, the Oil works well for healing shingles and associated blisters. Apply the Oil up to 3 times a day. Ways to use St. John’s Wort Infusion... Thanks to the tanning agents found in the herb, St. John’s Wort Infusion has excellent anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and wound healing properties. It can be used to wash wounds, bruises and smaller burns. Use 15-20g dried, or 150-200g fresh, herbs per 1 litre of water to make the Infusion.
Thyme is indigenous to the Mediterranean region and cultivated widely. Many current formulas for well-known brand Mouth Washes and Vapour Rubs contain thymol, one of the constituents found in Thyme.
Use an Infusion in a Whole Body Bath to calm irritated skin. Use 50-100g dried, or 5001000g fresh, herbs for the whole bath. Hair Care: The Infusion makes a good Hair Rinse for blonde highlights. Use 15-20g dried, or 150-200g fresh, herbs per 1 litre of water to make the Infusion. , While St. John’s Wort is soothing to the skin, it also makes the skin photosensitive so the skin should not be exposed to sunlight after St. John's Wort has been applied externally, such as in a Cream, Ointment or Macerated Oil. Even taking it internally may make fair-skinned people more sensitive to the sun. Hypericin promotes blood circulation in the skin and activates the finer capillaries. , Research shows that taking St. John’s Wort internally can counteract the effects of antidepressive drugs. If taking these drugs, consult with your health care professional before using St. John’s Wort internally.
Thymus vulgaris 74
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Main constituents: The Essential Oils are the main active constituent, with the phenolic compounds, thymol and carvacrol being dominant. It also contains resin, tannins, gum, saponins and organic acids.
Oral Care: Use Thyme in Mouth Washes to ease sore throats and to soothe irritable coughs or to Gargles to help alleviate the symptoms of laryngitis and tonsillitis. Add to Toothpaste for its antibacterial properties.
Internal use: Thyme is useful in treating oral and respiratory infections, upset stomachs, sluggish digestion, flatulence, colic, hysteria, pain or discomfort experienced just before or during a menstrual period, headache, to promote perspiration, and as a stimulating tonic in convalescence from exhausting diseases. It is also an excellent expectorant cough remedy, clearing congestion and reducing unnecessary spasm. It is often used to treat bronchitis, whooping cough and asthma. As a gentle astringent it has found use in childhood diarrhoea and bed-wetting.
Preparation and usage of Thyme: Use an Infusion (6-10g of the dried leaves per 1 litre of water, or 25-30g of the fresh leaves per 2-3 litres of water) for Wet Compresses, Wound, Cut and Scrape Washes, Foot Baths, Facial Steam Baths, Hair Rinses, as a Mouth Wash or Gargle and use instead of the water in your Toothpaste Recipe. For Mouth Washes and Gargles you can also use up to 10% of the Tincture diluted in water and/or other ingredients of your choice. Use 6-10g of the dried leaves, or 25-30g of the fresh leaves for a Whole Body Bath. You can also add up to 0.5% Thyme Essential Oils to these products.
Due to its strong antiseptic qualities, Thyme destroys intestinal parasites. Research has demonstrated Thyme's properties as a booster to the immune system.
, If using in a Whole Body or Foot Bath, make sure that the Essential Oil is dispersed properly, and is contained in, for example, Foam Bath or Turkey Red Bath Oil.
External use - Skin and Body Care: A Strong Infusion of Thyme together with the Essential Oil in Creams, Lotions, Gels and Compresses makes an effective treatment for neuralgic and rheumatic pains. Use in an antiseptic Compress or Wash for infected wounds, cuts and scrapes. Add Thyme to Foot Baths to treat fungal infections such as athlete’s foot and also to Whole Body Baths or your Foam Bath Recipes to alleviate vaginal yeast infections. Thyme contains tannins that cause proteins in skin to cross-link, forming a barrier to infection. Use a strong Infusion and/or Thyme Essential Oil in a Facial Steam Bath to treat coughs and colds. Add to your Deodorant Recipes for its strong antibacterial properties. Hair Care: Thyme is used as antiseptic Hair Rinse to treat dandruff; use it twice a week until it has cleared up. You can also add 15-20 drops of Tea Tree, and 2-3 drops of Lavender, Essential Oil per 100ml of Hair Rinse.
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Tormentilla root
Potentilla erecta, Potentilla tormentilla Synonyms: Tormentil Root, Bloodroot, Biscuits, Earthbank, English Sarsaparilla, Ewe Daisy, Flesh and Blood, Septfoil, Shepherd's Knapperty, Shepherd's Knot, Thormantle.
Germany in the Wiesental valley in Baden and no salvation was in sight, a bird is said to have come from the sky and chirped the following song: ‘Eat Tormentil and pimpernell and keep away the deathly knell’. The herb priest Johann Künzle wrote in 1911: ‘Gargling for 8 days with Bloodroot water makes loose teeth gain a hold again. For this purpose, decoct the chopped Bloodroot with hot water.’
Parts used: the root, which is dug up in the spring or autumn. Traditional use & history, description and properties: The word ‘Tormentil’ is derived from the Latin ‘tormentina’ meaning intestinal cramps or colic and the use of Tormentil Root for these symptoms, as well as the twinges of toothache, goes back a long way. ‘Potentilla erecta’ literally means an upright powerful being (‘potentia’ = power, ‘erectus’ = upright). The astringent and antibacterial action of Tormentilla Root was known in antiquity.
When the dried Peruvian Rhatany Root arrived in Germany in the late 18th century, Bloodroot faded into oblivion. In the First World War, Rhatany - coming from abroad was in short supply, so people turned back to the indigenous Bloodroot, which actually contains more tannins than Rhatany. In the Western Isles of Scotland and in Orkney, Tormentilla roots were used for tanning leather and considered superior even to Oak Bark, being first boiled in water and the leather steeped in the cold liquor. The Laplanders employed the thickened red juice of the root for staining leather red.
Hildegard von Bingen was aware of the benefits of this healing root and in the days of the plague a heavenly voice is said to have drawn people's attention to Bloodroot, which is what Tormentilla Root was called then. In 1348-49, when the plague was raging in
The dye, Tormentil Red, extracted from Tormentil Root is used to make a red ink. Traditionally, Tormentilla has been used as an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiviral, and astringent to treat allergies, colitis, diarrhoea, dysentery, gastroenteritis, gingivitis, heart health maintenance, immune system, mouth and throat inflammation, skin problems, and vascular disorders. In modern herbal medicine it is used extensively as an astringent in diarrhoea and other discharges, operating without producing any stimulant effects. It also imparts nourishment and support to the bowels. According to the Doctrine of Signatures, which according to medieval herbalists and alchemists, was the idea that God has marked everything he has created with a sign (signature). This sign was an indication of the purpose of the creation of the item. Tormentilla Root is good for treating problems or conditions involving the blood. According to the Doctrine of Signatures, this
Potentilla erecta, Potentilla tormentilla 76
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Wild Pansy Viola tricolor is because the fleshy part of the root becomes red after it has been cut. In this case, the Doctrine of Signatures theory is correct, as Tormentilla is good for stopping blood flow. Main constituents: High concentration (1522%) tannins (pyrogallol, catechin derivatives, ellagic acid derivatives). Other main constituents are the pseudosaponin tormentoside, quinovic acid, phenylpropanes such as caffeic, p-coumaric, and sinapic acids, as well as traces of Essential Oil. Skin, Oral and Eye Care: Today Tormentilla Root is mainly used externally for its highly astringent properties due to its high tannin content. The red pigment is able to penetrate bacteria and inhibit their development and it is also anaesthetic. Preparation and usage of Tormentilla: To use, make a strong Decoction of 20-30g dried Root per 1 litre of water or use the Tincture.
Synonyms: Heartsease, Garden Violet, Bonewort, Love Idol. Parts used: Whole plant. It is important to collect the roots when harvesting. Can be picked throughout the summer. Main constituents: Mainly saponins, especially in the roots. Also violine, flavonoid glycosides (rutin, or Vitamin P – which helps to increase the permeability of the blood – also found in garlic), resin, methyl-salicylic acid, bitter principle, tannins, carbohydrates and small quantities of Essential Oil in the flowers. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Wild Pansy has long been used as medicinal herb for cleansing toxins, relieving pain and as a healing herb used both internally and externally.
Use a strong Decoction or up 15% of the Tincture diluted in water and/or ingredients of your choice as an astringent Mouth Wash or Gargle for loose or bleeding gums, infections and inflammations of the oral cavity (gums) and throat. Add up to 3% of the Tincture to your Toothpastes. As a strongly-made Decoction, it is recommended as a good Wash for piles or an eye Bath for inflamed eyes. If a piece of cotton wool is soaked in the Decoction and kept applied to warts, they often disappear. In Compresses for eczema, chilblains and haemorrhoids.
Viola tricolor - 77 -
Wild Pansy has been used to treat skin diseases, eczema, asthma and epilepsy. It was also believed that the flowers were good for the heart, hence its popular name of Heartsease. Today, Wild Pansy is used to treat eczema, psoriasis, acne, pruritis and impetigo (skin infection around the nose and mouth). It is also said to be effective for ‘cradle cap’.
with Comfrey, it is said to reduce the size of pores and to rejuvenate the skin. * A feverish condition in which there are alternating periods of chills, fever, and sweating. Hair Care: Used in Hair Care products such as Hair Rinses, Shampoos and Conditioners for conditions where sores are present or there is eczema of the scalp.
The herbalist John Gerard (1545-1612) states: 'It is good…for such as are sick of ague*, especially children and infants, whose convulsions and fits of the falling sickness it is thought to cure. It is commended against inflammation of the lungs and chest, and against scabs and itchings of the whole body and healeth ulcers.'
Kolbjorn’s Skin Care Tips for Wild Pansy: Studies show that Wild Pansy has a clear, positive effect on acne, eczema, impetigo, pruritis and baby’s Cradle Cap. To make sure that you derive the best benefits from Wild Pansy for these conditions, it is important to use the roots, which contain the highest concentration of saponins in the plant. The saponins seem to exfoliate the eczema and any scaly skin from the skin.
The flowers were considered cordial and good in diseases of the heart, from which may have arisen its popular name of Heartsease as much as from the belief in it as a love potion.
Preparation and usage of Wild Pansy: For all kinds of Skin Care products, including Eczema Creams and Gels. Make a strong Decoction of 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of water by boiling for 15-20 minutes and allowing to draw for 1 hour.
On the European Continent, the herbaceous parts of the plant have been employed for their mucilaginous, demulcent and expectorant properties. The root and seeds are also emetic and purgative, which properties, as well as the expectorant action of the plant, are doubtless due to the presence of the violine. Pansy leaves are also used on the European Continent in place of litmus in acid and alkali tests.
Eczema Ointments are best made with a Tincture. Use 5-10% in your Recipes. For Shampoos, Conditioners, Foam Baths and Hair Rinses use 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of water.
Wild Pansy was formerly official in the United States Pharmacopoeia, and is still employed in America in the form of an Ointment and Poultice in eczema and other skin troubles, and internally for bronchitis. Its external application seems to be especially effective and safe to use on babies and children.
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g dried herb for the whole bath. For Steam Baths and Compresses use 20-25g dried herb per 1 litre of water. , When using Baths, Compresses and Poultices to treat conditions such as eczema or psoriasis, it is very important to start with calming herbs for a week. Then you can continue the treatment with herbs that draw out infections, e.g. Wild Pansy.
Skin Care: Wild Pansy is healing, cleansing and soothing and is used in Compresses, Baths, Steam Baths and in Creams and Ointments for Skin Care. It is especially effective in helping to treat problem skin, acne, eczema, psoriasis and rough skin. Wild Pansy can be used in Tincture form as an ingredient in a Facial Toner. When combined 78
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Witch Hazel
Hamamelis virginiana Synonyms: Hamamelis macrophylla, Spotted Alder, Striped Alder, Tobacco Wood, Winterbloom, Snapping Hazelnut.
itching eczema, bruises, etc. Its high tannin content has a strengthening astringent effect on veins and is therefore very useful for treating varicose veins and minor capillary problems.
Parts used: Leaves. Traditional use & history, description and properties: Witch Hazel is a winter blooming tree indigenous to Canada and the eastern United States. It is a traditional remedy of North American Indians, who used it as a Decoction in poultices for bruising, inflammation and venous problems (including haemorrhoids). Its use spread to Europe after Europeans settled in North America in the 18th century.
The external skin forms a protective covering after the tannins have tightened the proteins and underlying blood vessels, thus reducing inflammation. Unlike Arnica, Witch Hazel can be used on broken and damaged skin. It is mildly antiseptic and soothing. Witch Hazel is also said to stimulate the formation of new epithelial cells and is often used cold or with ice to reduce the pain of sprains and athletic injuries and to reduce swollen bruises. For this purpose, combine with up to 5% of Arnica Tincture.
Main constituents: Tannins (up to 10%) and volatile oils are the main active constituents in Witch Hazel. These constituents contribute to the strong astringent effect of Witch Hazel. Also contains saponins and glycosides. Skin Care: Witch Hazel is well used in the cosmetic and toiletry industry in Face Toners, Shaving Creams, Face Packs, After Shave Creams and Haemorrhoid Ointments, Creams and Gels. The Hydrolate, Infusion or Tincture of fresh leaves and twigs of Hamamelis are all used because of the herb’s astringent and antiinflammatory effects, and has also been recommended for certain skin conditions, such as boils, bed sores, insect bites, ulcers,
It is the classic Facial Toner, but don’t use more than 10-30% in your Toner Recipes because it is so strong that it can sting your skin. Because of its skin-tightening and astringent properties, it is ideal for treating oily skin types, controlling minor pimple formation, and skin with large pores. Hair Care: Use as an effective Hair Rinse to combat dandruff. Make a strong Infusion or 30% Hydrolate diluted in water. Eye Care: Use Witch Hazel Infusion or 5% Witch Hazel Hydrolate diluted in water in combination with 5% Chamomile Hydrolate or 1-2% Eyebright Tincture in an Eye Compress to reduce swollen and puffy eyes. Don’t use more than 10% of Witch Hazel Hydrolate diluted in water around the eyes. Oral Care: Add 5% Witch Hazel Tincture to water and/or other ingredients or 20-30% Witch Hazel Hydrolate to water /and or other ingredients and use as a Mouth Wash or Gargle to counteract gum or throat inflammations. You can also add other ingredients to the Mouth Wash or Gargle, such as Myrrh Tincture, Tormentilla Decoction or Tea Tree and Peppermint Essential Oils.
Hamamelis virginiana - 79 -
Yarrow
Achillea millefolium Synonyms: Milfoil, Millefoil, Nosebleed, Staunchgrass, Thousand-leaf, Soldier's woundwort, Sanguinary, Bloodwort, Noble Yarrow, Old Man's Pepper, Knight's Milfoil, Herbe Militaris, Thousand Weed, Carpenter's Weed, Staunchweed, Devil's Nettle, Devil's Plaything, Bad Man's Plaything, Yarroway, Angel flower.
Pet Care: Witch Hazel is commonly used for treating horses, but can be used on dogs and cats as well. Use a Decoction made from the bark externally on varicose veins, inflammation and bruising.
,The Witch Hazel Water sold today in
Parts used: Flowering tops.
chemists very often does not contain authentic Witch Hazel extracts but rather traces of Wintergreen oil in distilled water and alcohol. Wintergreen needs to be used with caution as it is very strong.
Traditional use & history, description and properties: Yarrow grows widely in Europe, North America, and Asia and has traditionally been used in Europe, India and China to help stop minor bleeding and to treat wounds; to treat inflammation in a number of conditions, especially in the intestinal and female reproductive tracts; and as a mild sedative. The ancient Chinese fortune-telling system known as the I Ching first used dried Yarrow stems, then later replaced them with coins.
Witch Hazel After Shave Toner Recipe (Makes 100ml) 44ml Still Water 30ml Witch Hazel Hydrolate 25ml Vodka 10 drops Peppermint Essential Oil Normally this will keep for at least 1 year without any Preservative. To keep it longer, add a Preservative.
Main constituents: A number of chemicals may contribute to Yarrow’s actions. The volatile oil, which is rich in sesquiterpene lactones and alkamides, has been found to have anti-inflammatory properties in test tube studies.
Method 1. 2.
Simply measure the ingredients and blend everything together in a bottle. To keep for more than 8 months, add a Preservative.
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Internal use: Yarrow is used internally for: Colic; common cold; sore throat; Crohn’s disease; indigestion and heartburn; inflammation; premenstrual syndrome; ulcerative colitis; smooth muscle spasms.
hair. Used as a Hair Rinse, it is effective for treating dandruff, itchiness and small wounds on the scalp. It has also been shown to help counteract hair loss. Regular use of the Hair Rinse will gently bleach the hair.
External use: Used as a universal remedy in the treatment of: a wide range of wounds and sores; malignant sores; bruises and bumps; swellings; cracked skin, nose bleeds; boils; small burns; haemorrhoids; and varicose veins. It also staunches bleeding and tones the skin. Used externally mainly for its antiseptic, antiinflammatory and astringent properties in the healing of sores as it stimulates granulation through the combined action of the Essential Oil, alkaloids and tannins.
Oral Care: Yarrow makes an excellent astringent Mouth Wash to tighten gums.
Skin Care: Yarrow is used for its astringent, healing and soothing effects on the skin. It strengthens skin tone. It can be used for oily skin, acne, large pores, wrinkles and eczema. To make a Facial Toner, add 2.5% Yarrow Tincture to your Recipes (see example of Recipe below). Yarrow is often an ingredient in certain products for dandruff, itchiness and sores of the scalp, eczema-type rashes with sores and itchiness.
2 drops Lavender Essential Oil 4ml Sage Tincture 4ml Yarrow Tincture 5ml Glycerine/Sorbitol 87ml Still Water
Pet Care: The alkaloid obtained from Yarrow, known as achilletin, reportedly stops bleeding in animals. Make a strong Infusion and either apply topically or let the animal take it internally.
Skin Toner for Oily Skin (Makes approximately 100ml)
For Method see page 16. Kolbjorn’s Yarrow-gathering Tip… Take care when gathering the flowers as the fresh juice can cause photosensitivity in people with sensitive skins.
Due its astringent, haemostatic (bloodstopping), antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, Yarrow Tincture has a wide range of uses. It is used as a Wash and in Compresses to treat wounds, boils, burns, bruises, bumps, cracked skin and other skin problems.
Usage and preparation of Yarrow: For use in Skin Care products it is best to use the pure Essential Oil, as well as a strong Infusion or Tincture.
Yarrow Tincture or Infusion together with the pure Essential Oil can be added to Compresses, Skin Toners, Baths, Ointments, Gels and Creams. For Whole Body Baths, use a strong Infusion of Yarrow to help treat weeping eczema and other skin problems. Hair Care: Use Yarrow in Hair Care products for its strengthening, drying and healing properties. Yarrow has a drying effect on the scalp, so only use in products for oily
For Hair Rinses and Foam Bath, Shampoo and Cream recipes, use the Infusion. Use approximately 15-20g dried Yarrow flowers per 1 litre of water or 150-200g fresh flowers per 2-3 litres of water. For Whole Body Baths use 50g dried flowers for the whole bath. For Compresses use 20-25g dried Yarrow flowers per 1 litre of water or 200-250g fresh flowers per 2-3 litres of water. For Mouth Washes, use up to 10% of the Tincture diluted in water and/or other ingredients of your choice.
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Glossary... Acne:
a skin disorder caused by excess production of oil from sebaceous glands causing the hair follicles to become plugged. Hormone changes during teenage years can cause oil glands to become overactive. Acne is characterized by black heads, pimple outbreaks, cysts, infected abscesses, and, sometimes, scarring.
Alterative:
a medicine that gradually restores the healthy functions, hastens the renewal of tissues and changes a bad condition in the blood.
Anodyne:
a medicine that eases pain by lessening nervous sensitivity.
Antibacterial:
has the same action as an antiseptic, but only acts against bacteria.
Antibilious:
combats and stops biliousness (upset stomach caused by a disorder of the liver or gall bladder).
Antifungal:
has the same action as an antiseptic, but only acts against fungi.
Antimicrobial:
Antiseptic:
same as antiseptic i.e. a substance that inhibits the growth of micro organisms including bacteria, viruses and fungi, though some antimicrobial herbs work for specific areas of the body only and may be used internally or externally. a substance used to prevent or reduce the possibility of infection, sepsis or putrefaction by germs. An antiseptic is a substance that kills or prevents the growth and reproduction of various micro-organisms, including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses on the external surfaces of the body.
Antiviral:
have the same action as antiseptics, but only act against viruses.
Aromatic:
having a fragrant smell.
Astringent:
a medicine which causes contraction of tissue, restraining discharges. Externally applied astringents, which cause mild coagulation of skin proteins, dry, harden, and protect the skin. Mildly astringent solutions are used in the relief of such minor skin irritations as those resulting from superficial cuts, allergies, insect bites, or athlete's foot.
Balsamic:
a term usually applied to substances containing resins and benzoic acid.
BCE:
this stands for Before the Common Era, which is an alternative notation for AD (Anno Domini, or the Year of our Lord). It is considered to be more respectful to non-Christians.
Bitter:
bitter tasting substances, used to stimulate the appetite, or aid digestion.
Carbuncle:
infection of the hair follicle.
Carminative:
a medicine which prevents or relieves flatulence.
Cholagogue:
stimulates the production of bile. 82
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CE:
this stands for Common Era, which is an alternative notation for BC (Before Christ). It is considered to be more respectful to non-Christians.
Demulcent:
soothes the alimentary canal.
Dermatic:
acts on the skin.
Detergent:
cleansing agent
Digestive:
aids digestion.
Diuretic:
a medicine that stimulates elimination of water from the body by increasing urine output.
Eczema:
an inflammation of the skin, usually causing itching and sometimes accompanied by crusting, scaling or blisters. A type of eczema often made worse by allergen exposure is termed ‘atopic dermatitis’.
Emollient:
softens and soothes, reduces inflammation and irritation.
Epithelial cells:
the cells that form the outer layer of the skin, and the membranes lining the digestive tract, bladder and uterus, as well as the tubes and ducts that run through the body's organs.
Expectorant:
promotes the expulsion of secretions from the lungs and so is used for loosening and breaking up a cough.
Febrifuge:
reduces fever.
Granulation:
the newly formed vascular tissue normally produced in the healing of wounds of soft tissue. Some herbs can help this new tissue to grow quickly, helping wounds to heal faster.
Haemorrhoid:
distended, varicose vein either inside or at the opening of the rectum, usually involving the discomforts of itchiness, pain and bleeding. Can be treated externally with e.g. tannins and essential oils but better long-term results are achieved through dietary changes which increase fluid intake and fibres in the form of grains and fruit and vegetables.
Hayfever:
is an allergic condition affecting the mucous membranes of the upper respiratory tract and the eyes with a collection of symptoms. It is most often characterized by nasal discharge, sneezing and itchy, watery eyes. Hayfever is generally caused by an abnormal sensitivity to airborne pollen or dust.
Hepatic:
stimulates the function of the liver.
Infection:
caused by bacteria, fungi or parasites invading the skin. Under normal circumstances the skin is impenetrable but access can be gained, also by small micro-organisms, wherever the skin is broken or there is damaged tissue. Once invaded the tissue will react by becoming inflamed.
Immunostimulant: increases the ability of the immune system to fight infection and disease. - 83 -
Impetigo:
a bacterial skin infection characterized by microscopic, pus-filled blisters.
Inflammation:
normal defensive reaction of body tissue or organ which has been subjected to invasion or damage of some kind, e.g. bacterial infection, physical blow, bruising or burning. The symptoms are a rise in temperature, reddening, swelling and (painful) tenderness of the affected area.
Irritant:
causes irritation.
Laxative:
mild bowel stimulant.
Narcotic:
produces deep sleep or unconsciousness.
Nervine:
restores normality to the nervous system.
Nutritive:
supplies nutrients.
Parasiticide:
destroys parasites.
Phlebitis:
Inflammation on the wall of a vein, usually in the legs.
Psoriasis:
a common disorder of the skin in which scaly, often itchy, pink patches form on the arms, knees, back and scalp. It will often reoccur and its cause is not fully understood, although it is generally considered to be an auto-immune disease. An auto-immune disease is one where the body has an immune response against one of its own tissues or types of cells.
Purgative:
causes evacuations of the bowels (more forceful than a laxative).
Pyoderma:
an infection of the skin, which is often the result of a bacterial invasion.
Resolvent:
reduces swellings.
Resorptive:
reabsorbs blood from bruises.
Sedative:
calms nervous excitement.
Stimulant:
temporarily stimulates nervous or muscular activity.
Stomachic:
gastric stimulant.
Styptic:
helps to clot blood, preventing bleeding.
Tonic:
a substance that invigorates or strengthens the system (also called adaptogen); often acting as stimulants or alternatives.
Vasoconstrictor:
causes constriction of the blood vessels.
Vulnerary:
promotes the healing of the wounds.
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The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Metric-US Conversion tables... These are for our American readers and customers. The millilitres and grams have sometimes been rounded off to make it easier for you to work with the Recipes in this book. I have used American spelling in these tables. If you get stuck, can’t see the measurement you need, or would like to be more precise in your calculations, a very useful metric conversion site with online calculators for temperature, weight and volume is www.metric-conversions.org. Note: I use grams to weigh raw materials because it’s much easier to work with and more accurate than measuring cups and spoons. This is because the volume (the space something takes up) of different raw materials will vary in relation to weight e.g. 2 ounces of Shea Butter in weight will be smaller in size (take up less volume) than 2 ounces of Dried Herbs in weight (there’ll be a lot more of the Herbs i.e. it would take up more space in a measuring cup). This is why I always recommend that my students and customers buy a sensitive gram scale.
Volume (Dry) American standard 1
/8 teaspoon /4 teaspoon 1 /2 teaspoon 3 /4 teaspoon 1 teaspoon 1 tablespoon 1 /4 cup 1
1
/3 cup /2 cup 2 /3 cup 3 /4 cup 1 cup 2 cups or 1 pint 3 cups 4 cups or 1 quart 1 /2 gallon 1 gallon 1
Volume (Liquid) American standard (cups and quarts) 1 /8 teaspoon
Metric (millilitres ) 0.5ml 1ml 2ml 4ml 5ml 15ml 59ml
American standard (fluid ounces)
0.5ml
1
1ml
1
2ml
3
4ml
/4 teaspoon /2 teaspoon /4 teaspoon
1 teaspoon 1
79ml 118ml 158ml 177ml 225ml 450ml 675ml 1 litre 2 litres 4 litres
Metric (millilitres and litres)
5ml
/2 tablespoon
1
/4 fl. oz
8ml
1 tablespoon
½ fl. oz
15ml
2 tablespoon
1 fl. oz
30ml
1
/8 cup
1
/4 cup
35ml 2 fl. oz
65ml
1
85ml
3
95ml
/3 cup /8 cup
1
/2 cup
4 fl. oz
125ml
5
160ml
2
/3 cup
170ml
¾ cup
190ml
/8 cup
7
/8
1 cup
220ml 8 fl. oz
250ml
1 /2 cups
12 fl. oz
375ml
2 cups or 1 pint
16 fl. oz
500ml
4 cups or 1 quart
32 fl. oz
1 litre
1 gallon
128 fl. oz
4 litres
1
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Weight/mass
Temperature
American standard (ounces)
Metric (grams)
½ ounce
15g
1 ounce
30g
3 ounces
85g
3.75 ounces
100g
4 ounces
115g
8 ounces
225g
12 ounces
340g
16 ounces or 1lb
450g
Celsius (C) 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
Fahrenheit (F) 50 59 68 77 86 95 104 113 122 140 149 158 167 176 185 194 203 212
Bibliography... Books Borseth, K. 2005. Aromantic, Forres.
Aromantic Education Pack 1, 135 Hair and Skin Care Recipes, Second Edition.
Borseth, K. 2005. Aromantic, Forres.
Aromantic Education Pack 2, An A-Z of 160 Raw materials for Making your own nature-friendly Skin Care products and Cosmetics, Second Edition.
BHMA. 1983.
British Herbal Pharmacopoeia, BHMA, Bournemouth.
Johansson, L; Spångberg, A. 1982. Tofters, Ostervala.
Vital Kur.
Hoffmann, D. 1990 Element, Shaftesbury.
The New Holistic Herbal, Second Edition.
Wickes Felter, H; Uri Lloyd, J. 1898. King's American Dispensatory. Websites www.wars-grin.gov/duke/plants.html - Dr. Duke's Phytochemical & Ethnobotanical Databases. www.botanical.com - A Modern Herbal, Mrs M. Grieve. www.wikipedia.org - Wikipedia, the free online dictionary. www.aromantic.co.uk - Aromantic’s website including other publications and recipes. 86
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
Biographies...
Kolbjørn Borseth Originally from Norway, Kolbjørn Borseth is the founder of Aromantic and has been working with and developing Natural Skin Care products since he started his factory in Sweden 20 years ago. His mission is to reveal the secrets that the cosmetic industry would rather hide from us. He now teaches others how to make their own products using natural raw materials tailor-made for their clients through providing recipes, educational guides and educational courses. Susan Kemp Born in South Africa in a country that still places a strong emphasis on folk remedies today and into a family with more than its fair share of herbalists, homeopaths, healers and humanitarians, Susan has seen and enjoyed the benefits of nature’s medicine her whole life. Her professional training and experience in areas as diverse as advertising and marketing and kinesiology, massage therapy and natural health retail has resulted in most of her editing and writing work being in the fields of natural health. Susan has worked on a variety of Aromantic writing and editing projects with Kolbjorn Borseth since 1998. Herbalism is a favourite subject of hers. Stewart Noble Stewart Noble is a social entrepreneur and is now widely known for his work developing LETS communities (Local Exchange Trading System) to promote the use of interest free local currencies. Stewart has worked for Aromantic since 1998, contributing to the overall success of the company. He has also produced most of the Aromantic printed materials, Recipe Brochures and Newsletters. William Youssi William was born in Paris and was visiting Scotland when we met him. He is a carpenter by trade and loves to travel with his art, sculpting, illustrating, painting and story telling. Of this project he said, “I enjoy to follow the line and shape of these plants with my eyes and pen and try to capture the spirit of each herb”.
Companies that sell Herbs,Tinctures and/or Essential Oils... The Organic Herb Trading Co, Somerset
Tel: 01823 401205
www.organicherbtrading.co.uk
Phoenix Apothecary, Findhorn
Tel: 01309 691044
Aromantic Natural Skin Care
Tel: 01309 696900
Neal’s Yard Remedies
Tel: 0845 2623145 www.nealsyardremedies.com
Essentially Oils
Tel: 01608 659544 www.essentiallyoils.com
www.aromantic.co.uk
To find a herbalist in your area, contact: National Institute of Medical Herbalists
Tel: 01392 426022 www.nimh.org.uk
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Learn how to make your own Natural Skin, Hair, Body and Health Care products that have real healing benefits! Featuring recipes for you to try at home, this Guide contains the basic information and general methods you need to make natural products for yourself, your family and friends. If you’re a Complementary Therapist you may even want to tailor-make them for, and sell them to, your clients. Learn how to make Natural Creams, Ointments, Macerated Herb Oils, Skin Toners, Nail Baths, Hair Rinses & Tonics, Mouth Washes, Foam Baths, Pet Care products and how to use herbs in Shampoos, Gels, Body and Foot Baths, Facial Steams, Compresses and Poultices...and more! A comprehensive and illustrated reference guide on 37 common, easily available herbs will help you to decide which herbs to use for different purposes. Enjoy taking your health and beauty into your own hands!
Published by Aromantic Ltd 17 Tytler Street, Forres, Moray, IV36 1EL, Scotland. Tel: (01309) 696900 Fax: (01309) 696911 E-mail:
[email protected] Website: www.aromantic.co.uk © Copyright 2006 - Aromantic Ltd ISBN No: 978-0-9554323-0-9
RRP £12.95
