Uruguay the Owners Manual 5th Ed

Uruguay The Owner’s Manual

By Lee Harrison and the staff of International Living www.InternationalLiving.com

Uruguay The Owner’s Manual

By Lee Harrison and the staff of International Living www.InternationalLiving.com

Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual Authors: Lee Harrison and Julie Lowrey 5th edition First published: 2006 Editor: Nazareen Heazle Design: Lorie Drozdenko Cover photos: ©Lee Harrison ©iStockphoto.com/José Carlos Pires Pereira ©Dreamstime.com/Svx94 978-1-905720-54-5

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© Copyright 2012. International Living Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Ballytruckle, Waterford, Ireland. All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced by any means without the express written consent of the publisher. The information contained herein is obtained from sources believed to be reliable, but its accuracy cannot be guaranteed. Registered in Ireland No. 285214. Disclaimer: International Living Publishing, Ltd. works with Pathfinder Ltd., a real estate advertising company managed by Ronan McMahon and Margaret Summerfield. Ronan and Margaret are real estate investing experts who contribute to International Living magazine. Pathfinder Ltd. may receive an advertising fee from developers and real estate agents mentioned in these pages and International Living Publishing Ltd. may receive a portion of that fee.

TABLE OF CONTENTS FOREWORD............................................................................................................................ 1 INTRODUCTION: The Secret is Out: And the Move to Uruguay is on.................................. 4 A multi-faceted lifestyle.........................................................................................................................4 Uruguay offers a great location and a gentle climate........................................................................6 A stable, fair government free of political strife.................................................................................7 Uruguay’s European culture will make you feel at home................................................................8 What’s bringing expats to Uruguay in 2012?......................................................................................9 An in-depth look around Uruguay will help you pick your region...............................................9 You’ll get real insider information on how to get things done......................................................10 No matter what you’re looking for, chances are you’ll find it in Uruguay ................................. 11

CHAPTER ONE: A Brief History of Uruguay........................................................................ 12 The Spanish arrive in Uruguay…twice.............................................................................................12 The Portuguese move against Spanish dominance.........................................................................12 The revolution against Spain brings the return of the Portuguese from Brazil...........................13 Uruguay gains independence with the help of Argentina.............................................................13 The birth of Uruguay’s two traditional political parties.................................................................14 Uruguay enjoys a period of peace and immigration.......................................................................14 Uruguay becomes a leader in social reform as the 20th century unfolds.....................................15 A dark period of military rule gives way to a modern democracy...............................................16 The structure of today’s government.................................................................................................18 Today’s political scene..........................................................................................................................18

CHAPTER TWO: The Language of Uruguay......................................................................... 20 It’s Spanish…with a local twist...........................................................................................................20 Resources for language learning........................................................................................................21 Spanish audio courses.................................................................................................................21 Online Spanish dictionary...........................................................................................................23 Getting help from MS Word........................................................................................................23 In-country Spanish schools.........................................................................................................23 Don’t even consider leaving home without these items.................................................................25 Your Uruguayan real estate dictionary..............................................................................................26 Don’t be intimidated by the language...............................................................................................30 Already speak some Spanish? Here are some Uruguayan peculiarities......................................30

CHAPTER THREE: The Uruguayan Economy....................................................................... 33 Uruguay’s economic history...............................................................................................................33 The new millennium begins with a new economic crisis...............................................................35 Today’s economic picture in Uruguay ..............................................................................................36 Key economic statistics for the potential expat................................................................................36 Inter-country comparison of key indicators.....................................................................................37 A good economic climate for the expat.............................................................................................38

CHAPTER FOUR: Finding Your Region and Your Home...................................................... 39 Getting to know Uruguay: Our journey around the country.........................................................39

Montevideo: A world capital that can feel like a small town.....................................................39 Ciudad Vieja—Montevideo’s historic center............................................................................41 Property samples in Ciudad Vieja..............................................................................................45 Centro—A great-value neighborhood.......................................................................................46 Property samples in Centro........................................................................................................48 Some of Montevideo’s finest areas.............................................................................................48 Long-term rentals in Montevideo..............................................................................................51 Ciudad de la Costa...............................................................................................................................52 Property samples in Ciudad de la Costa...................................................................................53 Rentals in Ciudad de la Costa.....................................................................................................53 Costa de Oro..........................................................................................................................................54 Atlántida: The centerpiece of Costa de Oro..............................................................................56 Property samples in Atlántida....................................................................................................57 Arriving at the river Arroyo Solís Chico...................................................................................57 Rentals in Costa de Oro...............................................................................................................59 The Piriápolis area...............................................................................................................................59 Piriápolis—One of Uruguay’s oldest resorts............................................................................60 Property samples in Piriápolis....................................................................................................61 The nude beach at Playa Chihuahua.........................................................................................63 Portezuelo......................................................................................................................................63 Punta del Este—South America’s number one seafront destination.........................................65 Why the Punta del Este market is so popular..........................................................................65 Punta del Este’s lay of the land..................................................................................................68 Think Punta del Este is too expensive? Check this out...........................................................71 Punta del Este property examples.............................................................................................72 Punta del Este rentals...................................................................................................................77 Rocha—Home to Uruguay’s best beaches.......................................................................................78 José Ignacio....................................................................................................................................78 Property samples in José Ignacio...............................................................................................79 La Paloma......................................................................................................................................81 Property samples in La Paloma..................................................................................................82 Rentals near La Paloma...............................................................................................................83 La Pedrera......................................................................................................................................84 Property samples in La Pedrera.................................................................................................84 Barra de Valizas............................................................................................................................85 Property samples in Barra de Valizas........................................................................................86 Aguas Dulces................................................................................................................................87 Barra de Chuy...............................................................................................................................87 The Uruguayan Interior......................................................................................................................87 Chuy...............................................................................................................................................88 Treinta y Tres.................................................................................................................................89 Villa Serrana for a hilly vacation getaway................................................................................91 Tacuarembó—The heart of the pampas....................................................................................93 Mercedes—The little city on banks of the Río Negro..............................................................94 Property samples in Mercedes....................................................................................................97 Rentals in Mercedes.....................................................................................................................97 Dolores...........................................................................................................................................98 Uruguay’s river cities..........................................................................................................................99 Salto—A great alternative to Montevideo................................................................................99 Property samples in Salto..........................................................................................................101 Paysandú—For land parcels and low cost of living..............................................................102

Property samples in Paysandú.................................................................................................102 Fray Bentos—A new wave of prosperity................................................................................103 Property samples in Fray Bentos..............................................................................................104 Carmelo—Back to the 19th century.........................................................................................105 Property samples in Carmelo...................................................................................................107 Colonia—Uruguay’s World Heritage Site..............................................................................108 Areas of interest in Colonia.......................................................................................................109 Colonia property overview....................................................................................................... 110 Property samples in Colonia..................................................................................................... 111 Rentals in Colonia....................................................................................................................... 113 A waterfront alternative outside of Colonia........................................................................... 113 Building instead of buying........................................................................................................ 113

CHAPTER FIVE: Buying Property in Uruguay.................................................................... 115 Compared to “back home”, it’s a different world.......................................................................... 115 The fine art of price padding............................................................................................................. 116 A step-by-step purchase process...................................................................................................... 116 A summary of real estate transaction costs..................................................................................... 119 Title insurance.....................................................................................................................................120 Financing your purchase...................................................................................................................120 No foreign ownership restrictions....................................................................................................120 Categorizing farm land in Uruguay.................................................................................................120 Buying property at auction................................................................................................................121 Power of Attorney...............................................................................................................................121 Rental agreements...............................................................................................................................122 Be aware of renters’ rights.................................................................................................................123

CHAPTER SIX: Getting a Visa and Becoming a Resident................................................... 124 Common types of visas in Uruguay................................................................................................125 Retiring to Uruguay under Law 16.340...........................................................................................125 Begin preparations before you leave home.....................................................................................126 Your immigration status reflects the steps of the process.............................................................127 The step-by-step residency process..................................................................................................128 Taking advantage of Immigration’s branch offices........................................................................135 Immigration costs...............................................................................................................................135 Immigration consultants....................................................................................................................135 Immigration attorney.........................................................................................................................136 Obtaining your second passport......................................................................................................136 Immigration contact information.....................................................................................................137

CHAPTER SEVEN: Moving Your Household and Pets........................................................ 139 What you can bring with you...........................................................................................................139 The players in the moving process...................................................................................................140 Listen to the moving agent................................................................................................................141 Importing your car to Uruguay........................................................................................................141 Getting your things into the country...............................................................................................141 What action you need to take, and when........................................................................................143 When your goods arrive....................................................................................................................144 Collect your guarantee from Customs.............................................................................................144 Tips for an event-free customs clearance.........................................................................................144 Bringing your pets into Uruguay.....................................................................................................146 Getting your pets back to the U.S.....................................................................................................147 Traveling with pets.............................................................................................................................147

CHAPTER EIGHT: Cost of Living in Uruguay.................................................................... 150 The ups and downs of the U.S. dollar..............................................................................................150 A sample budget if you’re renting a house.....................................................................................150 Sample budgets if you own your home..........................................................................................151 Additional cost of living factors to consider...................................................................................153 The price of owning a car..................................................................................................................154 How to save on the monthly budget...............................................................................................154

CHAPTER NINE: Health Care For All................................................................................ 156 Uruguay’s public health care system...............................................................................................156 Private health care system.................................................................................................................156 The cost of health care........................................................................................................................157 Age limits and insurance alternatives.............................................................................................158

CHAPTER TEN: Learning the Tricks of the Uruguayan Culture........................................ 159 Greetings..............................................................................................................................................159 Excuse me?...........................................................................................................................................159 Punctuality...........................................................................................................................................160 Conflict.................................................................................................................................................160 Gift giving............................................................................................................................................160 Coffee time!..........................................................................................................................................160 Dress.....................................................................................................................................................161 Restaurants..........................................................................................................................................161 The spike..............................................................................................................................................162 Tipping.................................................................................................................................................162 The parking guys…and gals.............................................................................................................162 Personal titles......................................................................................................................................162 Telephone.............................................................................................................................................163 Smoking................................................................................................................................................163 Antique cars.........................................................................................................................................163 The jug on the car................................................................................................................................164 Music....................................................................................................................................................164 Bikes, scooters, and motorcycles.......................................................................................................164 The parrillada........................................................................................................................................164 Thanks to the Italians.........................................................................................................................165 Take a number.....................................................................................................................................165 Prostitution and gambling.................................................................................................................166 Crime....................................................................................................................................................166 Club de Remeros....................................................................................................................................166 National pastimes...............................................................................................................................166 Holidays and festivals in Uruguay..................................................................................................168 What you won’t like about Uruguay...............................................................................................169 What you’ll love about Uruguay......................................................................................................170

CHAPTER ELEVEN: Insider’s Tips for Uruguay................................................................. 172 Opening a bank account....................................................................................................................172 Getting a driver’s license...................................................................................................................172 If it’s priced in dollars, pay in dollars..............................................................................................173 Paying your bills.................................................................................................................................173 Home modifications and BPS...........................................................................................................173 Phones, cable, and Internet................................................................................................................174 Registration of cell phones................................................................................................................175 What you won’t find at the grocery store........................................................................................176

Finding outlets, bolts, wire, and other hardware...........................................................................176 The hairdresser....................................................................................................................................176 Tipping.................................................................................................................................................177 Clothing................................................................................................................................................177 Tips on appliances..............................................................................................................................177 At the post office.................................................................................................................................178 Public transportation..........................................................................................................................178 Hotels vs. motels.................................................................................................................................178 Nude beaches......................................................................................................................................178

CHAPTER TWELVE: Your Tax Guide to Uruguay............................................................. 179 Types of taxes in Uruguay.................................................................................................................179 Promotional investment tax breaks..................................................................................................182 Free trade zones..................................................................................................................................183 Uruguay’s offshore financial vehicles..............................................................................................183 Take a look at an example tax situation...........................................................................................184 Taxes paid to your home country.....................................................................................................184 Got a tax question?.............................................................................................................................185

CHAPTER THIRTEEN: Doing Business in Uruguay........................................................... 186 Uruguay offers a positive investment climate................................................................................186 Ease of doing business.......................................................................................................................188 Business resources for further information.....................................................................................189

CHAPTER FOURTEEN: Commercial Property Guide........................................................ 191 Buy your commercial property using the best vehicle..................................................................191 Categorizing farm land in Uruguay.................................................................................................191 Commercial property examples from around Uruguay ..............................................................192

CHAPTER FIFTEEN: Your Exploratory Visit..................................................................... 196 Getting to Uruguay.............................................................................................................................196 Traveling within Uruguay.................................................................................................................199 Staying in touch..................................................................................................................................200 What to pack........................................................................................................................................201 Suggested itineraries..........................................................................................................................201 What to do while you’re here............................................................................................................202 Enjoy Uruguay!...................................................................................................................................205

APPENDIX A: The Uruguay Rolodex.................................................................................. 206 APPENDIX B: Three Unique Spanish Verb Inflections....................................................... 224 APPENDIX C: Maps of Uruguay......................................................................................... 227

In our experience, there are few places that can match Uruguay’s combination of modern infrastructure, honest culture, and natural beauty… anywhere in Latin America. Jackie Flynn, Publisher, International Living

Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

FOREWORD

Dear International Living Reader, When you consider moving to Uruguay, keep in mind that there are a few things you might miss. In fact, expats who came to Uruguay since we began coverage in 2004 have missed out on a lot. First, they missed the U.S. housing bubble…but more importantly, they missed the subsequent property market crash. In sharp contrast, property values in Uruguay have continued to appreciate nicely...in some cases, dramatically. Next, the expats in Uruguay missed the recession, which just seemed to pass the country by. Unlike the hemisphere’s economic powerhouses—such as the U.S., Brazil, Mexico, and Argentina—Uruguay actually posted an economic gain during the depths of the recession, and has since broken all previous tourism and construction records. The economy overall, grew a stunning 8.5% in 2010; based on the latest statistics available. And of course they missed the war on terror…the threat of violence…the airport security that makes traveling a headache. Uruguay is not only missing out on much of the world’s turmoil, but it continues to offer some of the world’s best benefits. Uruguay’s banking system remains solid, appealing to investors and depositors from around the world who are seeking a safe haven that also offers tax advantages. So while almost 400 banks failed over the past three years in the U.S., Uruguay continued chugging along without a hitch. In our experience, there are few places that can match its combination of modern infrastructure, honest culture, and natural beauty…anywhere in Latin America. In Uruguay, you’ll find a First-World country with mile after mile of fast, modern highways…pure water coming from every tap…and reliable electricity, telephone, and Internet service. Foreword

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Uruguay offers a European culture—predominately Italian—with little Spanish colonial influence. A mild climate. And one of Latin America’s lowest level of corruption and poverty, with one of the region’s highest standards of living. And that’s not to mention the miles of beautiful, sandy beaches, colonial cities, and vast stretches of rolling pampas. And as it turned out, Uruguay is just what the doctor ordered for many IL readers. It appeals to people who are ready to retire, invest, or buy a second home abroad…but who are also looking for a country with similar cultural values to their home country; an environment that’s also safe, secure, and without natural disasters. Uruguay’s four moderate seasons are a plus too, given that there’s no ice or snow.

A lot has changed since we first covered Uruguay in 2004 During this time, the country has evolved in the eyes of the international community. Areas of Uruguay that were virtually undiscovered by international buyers have become well-known to the foreign homeowner and investor…while new parts of the country have emerged as today’s leading-edge places to watch. Some sections of the country have seen hefty increases in the price of properties, while other areas remain overlooked…areas that now represent a tremendous value. While there are still terrific deals throughout the country, several areas stand out. Colonia continues to be more and more popular with expats, second only to the famous beach resort of Punta del Este. The areas around this 17th-century Portuguese settlement are really on the move and are seeing ever-increasing numbers of North Americans. Also, the Costa de Oro remains the most overlooked area on the Uruguayan coast, with waterfront homes still available for less than $80,000. And the expat community in seaside Piriápolis continues to grow, as more and more people settle into the town reminiscent of 1950s America by the sea. Punta del Este remains South America’s premier beach resort, with a solid real estate market that boasts respectable gains and high liquidity. But the stunning northeast shoreline between Punta del Este and Brazil is also currently receiving the attention of foreign buyers, as they seek to find a place along Uruguay’s most beautiful stretch of coastline.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

So yes, there are things you’ll miss in Uruguay…but they’re things we could all do without. In their place, you’ll find a great country to enjoy life in a safe, First-World environment, where you still benefit from continued economic prosperity…with a terrific European culture and great property prices. Read on to get a unique, resident’s look at this “slice of Europe” hidden away in Latin America. Sincerely,

Jackie Flynn Publisher, International Living

About the authors Lee Harrison and Julie Lowrey are long-time International Living subscribers. Back in 2001, they followed the IL dream by taking an early retirement at the age of 49 and moving abroad to Cuenca, Ecuador. Permanent residents of Uruguay since 2006, they also maintain a second home in Colombia and a lakeside property near Granada, Nicaragua.

A note from the author Thank you for buying Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual. Please remember that all prices in this book reflect an exchange rate of 20 Uruguayan pesos per U.S. dollar. If the rate has changed since publication, costs may be higher or lower than they are as I write this. (This does not apply to properties, which are always priced in dollars in Uruguay.) You can see the current exchange rates, for the U.S. dollar, the Canadian dollar, the Australian dollar, the British pound sterling, and the euro at www.xe.com. If you come to Uruguay and discover a new city that we haven’t covered, we’d love to hear from you. Also, if things have changed—for better or worse— we’d like to hear that as well. E-mail us at [email protected] (using Uruguay OM 2012 as the subject line), and we’ll do our best to get your feedback into the next edition of this book.

Foreword

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INTRODUCTION The Secret is Out: And the Move to Uruguay is on Uruguay was a well-kept secret for a long time—at least with respect to North Americans—but it looks like the secret is out. Every year that goes by, I’m surprised to see more and more people coming down to call Uruguay home… along with a good number of second-homebuyers and investors. Some people come for the elegant city living…or perhaps life in a beautifullyrestored colonial setting. Still others come to settle among the vast stretches of rolling pampas, with gauchos still tending their herds…or maybe to live the high life at South America’s premier beach resort. And most recently, people are coming in search of a safe haven. They want a fertile country that’s free of conflict; with mild weather, sustainable agriculture, and a solid financial system. That’s the beauty of Uruguay…it’s all here, among First-World conditions, at reasonable prices.

A multi-faceted lifestyle City life in the capital of Montevideo has something to offer most anyone. One of my first experiences in Montevideo was a visit to the magnificently restored Teatro Solís. It’s an old-fashioned theater from a bygone era, where black-tie crowds still turn out to enjoy world-class orchestras when they come to town. But just a half block down the street, you can also join the local folks at a tiny tango club that looks more like an abandoned building during the day. The tango singing and dancing will go on here until well after Teatro Solís has closed for the night…

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

© Lee Harrison

Montevideo’s theatre Teatro Solís

Some of the city’s best fine-dining establishments are also near the theater…as are dozens of casual parrillas, whose giant grills and blazing wood fires await the arrival of Montevideo’s meat-lovers. But in the same neighborhood, you’ll also find an array of small bars and cafes, with crowds that won’t go home until 9 a.m. the next day…or you can join the elderly couples who come to the neighborhood park to dance tango, who will be home well before midnight. By the light of day, you may want to relax on one of Montevideo’s many popular beaches, taking in the sun, sand, and surf. This is life in the big city…a world capital. But it’s only one facet of Uruguay.

Introduction

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The country is also home to South America’s premier beach resort, Punta del Este. A town that boasts miles of sandy beaches and blue waters, along with the country’s hottest nightclubs, the best casinos and shows, and the highest concentration of fine restaurants. Not to mention its world-renowned property market. It’s another facet of Uruguay. And so is Colonia, with the faithfully restored 17th-century Portuguese architecture that earned its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And the department of Rocha, with its miles of unspoiled beaches…or Salto, with its thermal spas and treasure-trove of Art-Deco homes…or the Interior towns of Mercedes, Tacuarembó, and Treinta y Tres, separated by hundreds of miles of pampas, with traditionally dressed gauchos working as they have for centuries. They’re all facets of Uruguay; a country that truly offers a First-World lifestyle for everyone; whether it’s a home on the beach, an apartment in the city, or a thousand acres of ranchland. I find that the quality of life here in Uruguay is exceptional. True, there are plenty of cheaper places to live in the world. But remember, to a large extent you get what you pay for.

Uruguay offers a great location and a gentle climate Nestled along the coast between Argentina and Brazil, Uruguay sits between 30° and 35° southern latitude, which is about the equivalent of both the Carolinas and Georgia in the Northern Hemisphere. It lies two time zones east of Eastern Standard Time, at GMT-3, with daylight savings time observed during the South American summer. At roughly the size of Missouri, it’s the second-smallest country in South America after Suriname (which is formerly Dutch Guyana, for those of us over 50). Uruguay is home to almost 3.5 million people…the size of a large North American city. Almost half of the population lives in the capital city of Montevideo. The República Oriental del Uruguay (its official name) boasts 120 miles of beautiful Atlantic coastline, and 270 miles of coast bordering the Uruguay River (Río Uruguay), which helps to explain why tourism is such an important part of the Uruguayan economy. Once you get away from the beaches, you’ll find an interior with vast stretches of rolling grasslands spotted with small, attractive cities. The country consists of 19 “departments”, which are geopolitical entities like states or provinces.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

Uruguay’s 19 departments Uruguay is divided into19 departments, which are like states or provinces. In Spanish, they are departamentos. Here’s a list in alphabetical order: Artigas

Lavalleja

Salto

Canelones

Maldonado

San José

Cerro Largo

Montevideo

Soriano

Colonia

Paysandu

Tacuarembó

Durazno

Rio Negro

Treinta y Tres

Flores

Rivera

Florida

Rocha

Uruguay has four seasons, but does not have ice or snow. While the 41-inch rainfall is spread somewhat evenly throughout most of the year, rain is rare in the mid-summer months of January and February. In Montevideo, the statistical temperature average in the summer (December through February) shows an average high of 82° F, and an average low of 61° F (28° and 16° Celsius). In winter (June to August) the average high is 59° F, while the average low is 43° F (15° C and 6° C). Statistics aside, it has reached the mid-90s (34° C) on perhaps six days in Punta del Este in recent summers, and even in winter, most days have hit 60° F. Suffice to say that while you won’t need a snow shovel, you will use heat in the midwinter and occasional air conditioning in the summer.

A stable, fair government free of political strife The Uruguayan government is composed of three autonomous branches: legislative, judicial, and executive. The president is elected to a single, five-year term. Tabaré Vásquez of the Frente Amplio coalition was elected in October 2004, bringing the left to power for the first time in Uruguay’s history. He left office with a 70% approval rating—the highest in the Americas—and was succeeded by José Mujica in the October 2009 elections. President Mujica (also of the Frente Amplio party) has continued the economic policies that have made Uruguay such a popular expat destination.

Introduction

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Always a pioneer for social reform in the region, Uruguay doesn’t exhibit the rigid two-class society that exists in most of Latin America. One reason for this is that education is free through university and sometimes post-graduate level, so even people of limited means can get a degree and enjoy better opportunities. Another reason is that Uruguay has few Native Americans—who are the usual targets of discrimination in Latin America—so there’s not much of an ethnically defined boundary between the upper and lower classes. Uruguay is neither an aggressor nor the target of aggression on the international scene. We don’t need to worry about terrorism. And believe me, you won’t miss it…especially when you get to casually pass through security at the airport with your shoes on and your laptop in its case.

Uruguay’s European culture will make you feel at home The people of Uruguay are almost entirely of European descent, principally Italian and Spanish. Between the two, the Italians have easily left the bigger cultural footprint. Other immigrant groups include Portuguese, Armenians, Basque, Germans, and Irish, making the country somewhat of an ethnic melting pot, much like the U.S. What this cultural and ethnic diversity means to most North American and European expats is that you won’t stand out as a foreigner, since tall, fair, or blue-eyed people are not unusual among Uruguayans…unlike much of Latin America. The Uruguayan people are truly calm, laid-back, and non-aggressive— more so in fact, than any country I’ve visited. Violent crime and sex crimes are almost unheard-of, and I haven’t seen any evidence of racial or ethnic tension. Uruguayans tend to show unlimited patience—both in person and on the road— which adds to the relaxed feeling of the country. To help you get a feel for this country, in Chapter One we will look at the history of Uruguay. We’ll take you through its rather turbulent past, and we’ll trace how it emerged into one of Latin America’s most solid democracies. For some, the idea of living in a country that speaks a foreign language is intimidating. In Chapter Two we will help you get versed in the basics of Uruguayan Spanish and give recommendations for language schools to help you get your feet on the ground.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

What’s bringing expats to Uruguay in 2012? Uruguay draws a wide range of foreigners for a variety of reasons: entrepreneurs, travelers, foreign officials, diplomats, businessmen of all types, and of course, retirees looking for a high quality of life, while experiencing something new and different. Today, one of the biggest draws for Uruguay is its growing popularity as a safe haven; its abundant water supply, strong agricultural sector, electricity surplus, and financial stability…along with safe, private banking. Every year we meet more and more North American expats in Uruguay, and are seeing more and more expat groups springing up. So it’s now easier than ever for newcomers to get situated in their new country. But to be honest, Uruguay is not the place to settle if you want a large, wellorganized North American expat community, or if you intend to speak only English. There are other countries that are better suited to this lifestyle. The North Americans who do make it down here often give the same reasons for coming. Overwhelmingly, they cite the need for personal safety and security, political stability, and good infrastructure. A lot of people also come to escape the winter in the Northern Hemisphere, but want to enjoy a beautiful place with a civilized culture while doing so. Life in Uruguay, in many ways, is reminiscent of the simplicity of American life back in the 1950s. Author David Finzer once referred to Uruguay as “Eisenhower’s America with English subtitles”.

An in-depth look around Uruguay will help you pick your region While Uruguay is a small country, there is quite a bit of diversity. It offers the expat old colonial cities, sparkling beach resorts, and a world-class capital. But it also has huge expanses of rolling ranchland, miles of uncrowded and undeveloped beaches, and small towns of every size and description.

Introduction

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In Chapter Four, I’ll take you on a tour around the country so you can get to know the regions and see what properties cost. Here are the sectors we’ll be using throughout this manual: Montevideo Ciudad de la Costa Costa de Oro Piriápolis Punta del Este Northeast Coast

These zones are found as you follow the coast east from Montevideo.

Everything that’s not Montevideo, not on the coast, and not on the river.

The Interior

The Uruguay River cities

Following the Uruguay River to the northern border with Brazil.

The boundaries for geographical divisions in this manual are, for the most part, my own. Where a defined zone didn’t exist by name, I grouped the areas by their general character and their market characteristics. Once you have found your dream home, whether it be in the bright lights of the capital of Montevideo, or a home on the beach in Piriápolis, I’ll take you through the process for buying that property in Chapter Five.

You’ll get real insider information on how to get things done We’ll talk about how to get residency in Chapter Six. I’ll tell you all you need to know about visas, how to get them, and what documentation you will need. Having been through the process myself, I can tell you the pitfalls to avoid and some important time-saving tasks that will help you through this procedure. Moving an entire household overseas is never an easy task. There are customs regulations, special procedures, and restrictions on what you can bring in. And if Fido is coming too, you will need documentation to ensure safe passage for man’s best friend. Turn to Chapter Seven for all the information you’ll need to bring your household and pets to Uruguay. In Chapter Eight, you’ll see exactly how much it costs to live in Uruguay and also how you can save some money on everyday expenses…along with a number of sample budgets.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

One of the most important aspects of moving to a new country is its health care system. When you are far from home, it’s comforting to know that you will be in good hands should you get sick. In Chapter Nine, we’ll look at Uruguay’s excellent health care system and medical insurance options. Fitting in with the locals can be a difficult task in a new country…particularly if you’re not sure of the local customs. See Chapters Ten and Eleven for details on Uruguayan culture and some of my best insider’s tips for living in Uruguay. Here you’ll get to learn from my countless social mistakes and faux pas. Uruguay is a tax-friendly country, but there’s still a lot you’ll need to know. In Chapter Twelve, with the help of our resident tax expert, I’ll give you the rundown of the tax system in Uruguay as well as some investment tax breaks you can take advantage of. If you are planning on doing business in Uruguay, then Chapters Thirteen and Fourteen will provide you will all the information you will need. I’ll tell you why Uruguay is the perfect country to do business in and give you contacts that can help you out. I will also give you details of some commercial property that is currently available in the country. And now for the fun bit…in Chapter Fifteen, we’ll cover your exploratory trip to Uruguay. You’ll find out how to get here, how to get around, and what to see while you’re on the road.

No matter what you’re looking for, chances are you’ll find it in Uruguay If you’ve got your heart set on a world-class beach destination, Uruguay has one of the world’s finest at Punta del Este. And for city living, there’s Montevideo: the big city that’s not so big…the world capital that still retains somewhat of a small-town feel. If country living, farming, or ranching is more your style, then you’ll love the Uruguayan Interior, with its miles of open land and low prices, not to mention the small cities and towns that form Uruguay’s heartland. And let’s not forget historic Colonia, the bargain properties of Paysandú, or the colonial homes and hot springs of Salto. Whether you’re a retiree looking for a safe, secure environment…or an investor seeking out some of the world’s best property investments…or someone who’s always wanted to take on a home restoration, Uruguay will have a place for you.

Introduction

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CHAPTER ONE A Brief History of Uruguay

Uruguay has had a turbulent history. Over the years, Portugal, Spain, Brazil, and Argentina took turns ruling over this small country. It also survived civil wars and a period of harsh military rule. Today, however, Uruguay has emerged as one of the most stable democracies in Latin America.

The Spanish arrive in Uruguay…twice When the Spanish first arrived, an indigenous group known as the Charrúa, a war-like nomadic people, occupied present-day Uruguay. In 1516, Spanish explorer Juan Díaz de Solís was the first European to arrive, when his party sailed into the Río de la Plata. His entire party was killed that same year, which dampened the Spanish desire to colonize for a short time. (The famous Teatro Solís theatre in Montevideo was named for this unfortunate explorer.) The Charrúa continued to hold on throughout the 16th century, successfully resisting further attempts at colonization until 1624, when the Spanish founded their first permanent settlement at Soriano on the Río Negro. The Spanish introduced cattle, which became a source of wealth in the region. The down side however, was that the introduction of cattle made irreversible changes to the habitat, demographics, and customs of the native people.

The Portuguese move against Spanish dominance Between 1680 and 1683, contesting Spanish ownership of the region, Portuguese colonists from Brazil established several settlements in Uruguay such as the Novo Colonia do Sacramento—which is modern-day Colonia—located just across the river from Buenos Aires.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

At first, the Spanish ignored this colonization, and did little to try to evict the Portuguese. Their stronghold in the region since 1726 had been Montevideo, which the Portuguese were not threatening at the time. But then the Portuguese started fortifying the area around Montevideo, preparing to challenge the Spanish. The Spanish in turn went after them aggressively and eventually established their rule over the entire country in 1777. The Portuguese however, were not gone for good.

The revolution against Spain brings the return of the Portuguese from Brazil In 1810 and 1811 the Uruguayan territory was undergoing a period of unrest. Taking advantage of the situation, a group of Uruguayan revolutionaries led by General José Gervasio Artigas took the lead in the revolt against Spain. As a result, the Spanish governor was finally driven from Montevideo in 1814. But in 1816, the Portuguese sensed weakness in Uruguay after its struggle with Spain, and they invaded under the pretext of restoring order. The Portuguese managed to conquer Uruguay completely by 1821, and annexed it as part of Portuguese Brazil.

Uruguay gains independence with the help of Argentina In 1825, Uruguay—then commonly known as the Banda Oriental—and its provincial legislature declared independence from Brazil. (Brazil became independent from Portugal in 1822. So this time, the conflict was with Brazil rather than Portugal.) Argentina intervened to assist Uruguay, which then led to a war between Argentina and Brazil. On April 19, 1825, a band of 33 Uruguayan patriots led by Juan Antonio Lavalleja departed from Argentina near Buenos Aires, and landed at Playa de la

Chapter One: A Brief History of Uruguay

Juan Antonio Lavalleja, one of the major figures in Uruguay’s independence struggle from Brazil

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Agraciada in Uruguay’s Department of Soriano. This landing was widely seen as the opening volley in Uruguay’s war for independence from Brazil. The war that followed was somewhat of a stalemate. But in 1827, the British mediated a peace treaty (ratified in 1828) under which both Argentina and Brazil agreed to guarantee Uruguay’s independence. Why did the British care? They were doing a lot of trade with Uruguay, Argentina, and Brazil. So their objective was to keep Uruguay from reverting to Argentina’s control in order that the Río de la Plata would remain an international waterway. As a result of the treaty, the República Oriental del Uruguay was established in 1828, and its first constitution was signed on July 18, 1830. At the time, Uruguay had only 74,000 inhabitants.

The birth of Uruguay’s two traditional political parties During much of the 19th century, rival factional leaders within Uruguay would appeal to either Argentina or Brazil for help against their opponents. Civil war was frequent until 1872. In one such instance, the followers of José Fructuoso Rivera, the country’s first president (1830-1834) appealed to Brazil for support. His followers were distinguished by their red (colorado) hatbands. Then the followers of Manuel Oribe (the country’s second president) turned to Argentina. This group’s members were distinguishable by their white (blanco) hatbands. From these factions arose Uruguay’s traditional political parties, the Blancos and the Colorados, who managed to dominate the political scene all the way into the 21st century.

Uruguay enjoys a period of peace and immigration Between 1865 and 1870 Uruguay was allied with Brazil and Argentina in a war against Paraguay (the War of the Triple Alliance). But after that, the last decades of the 19th century were years of relative peace. European immigration increased after 1880 as Uruguay attracted many settlers with the prospects of peace and fertile soil. In total, the population of Uruguay multiplied 14 times between 1830 and 1900, a growth rate that was (and is) unparalleled in the Americas. There were four or five major immigration waves in the 19th century. During the first half of the century, the immigrants came from France, Italy, and Spain, while in the second half it was primarily Italy and Spain.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

In the early 20th century, membership in the two rival political groups ceased to be merely a matter of traditional loyalties. The Blancos became the conservative party, attracting chiefly the rural population and the clergy, and the Colorados became known as progressive and proponents of advanced social legislation.

Uruguay becomes a leader in social reform as the 20th century unfolds During President José Batlle y Ordóñez’s second presidential term (1911-1915), he enacted a program of unprecedented social legislation. Uruguay soon became the most progressive nation in South America.

Progressive legislation José Batlle y Ordóñez, son of President Lorenzo Batlle, introduced the eight-hour workday during his presidency, workers’ compensation, and the first divorce law in Latin America to recognize women’s rights.

©iStockPhoto.com/ Holger Mette

Batlle’s moderately socialist program included the establishment of many government-owned businesses in order to compete with the private sector to provide less expensive services. His agenda also promoted retirement and medical-aid programs; free education; extensive labor legislation; and public health measures. Many of these institutions remain in effect today, and are one reason why Uruguay had a high standard of living and a reputation for being “Europe-like” as far back as the 1930s.

Palacio Legislativo is Uruguay’s impressive government building in Montevideo

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In 1917, during World War I, Uruguay broke off relations with Germany. They then leased the German ships (which they’d seized in the harbor of Montevideo) to the United States. They joined the League of Nations in 1920. During this time, Uruguay was in its heyday economically. It had thriving industries built around meat, leather, wool, and clothing, along with a free trade agreement with Great Britain and Europe. Uruguay had a solid and prosperous economy and enjoyed world prominence until free trade ended during the world depression that began in 1929. During World War II, Uruguay severed diplomatic, financial, and economic relations with the Axis powers, and in 1945 the country joined the United Nations.

A dark period of military rule gives way to a modern democracy In the 1960s Uruguay was plagued with economic woes, including rampant inflation, causing President Jorge Pacheco to implement strict wage and price controls. Labor disputes ensued, and Pacheco then declared a state of emergency during which constitutional guarantees were suspended. Demonstrators were shot, hundreds of suspected dissidents were imprisoned, and the police began using torture during interrogations. A group of student revolutionaries called the Tupamaros responded with an urban guerilla campaign. Congress declared a state of “internal war”, and constitutional guarantees were further suspended until 1973. About this time, the military leaders decided to play a central role in the country’s politics. They ousted the civilian government in 1973 and harshly suppressed all dissent. The military powers ruled for almost 12 years.

America’s role The U.S. participated in the establishment and operation of the dictatorship in a supervisory role, as they did in other countries of the region. In 1976 however, a bill was introduced in the U.S. Congress to withdraw their support for the dictatorship. Unfortunately, the term “U.S.backed death squads” lived on into the 1980s, as part of the U.S. government’s policy against leftist activity and communism in the region.

Presidential elections were finally held in November 1984, with the armed forces exercising veto power over the choice of nominees. The winner was a moderate, Julio María Sanguinetti of the Colorado party. He took office in March 1985, and restored full political and civil rights.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

Sanguinetti won the presidential election again in 1994, but in legislative elections, his party ran into trouble. The Frente Amplio party (Broad Front) made significant inroads against the more traditional Blanco and Colorado parties for the first time. The Frente Amplio was a leftist coalition that included Communists, Socialists, and former Tupamaro guerrillas. This legislative electoral upset turned out to be a sign of things to come. In November 1999 the Colorado party’s Jorge Batlle defeated the Frente Amplio’s Tabaré Vázquez in Uruguay’s runoff presidential election. Vázquez had forced the runoff by winning the first round in October, and Batlle was only able to win after enlisting the Blancos’ support. The Frente Amplio won pluralities in both houses of the legislature in the legislative elections.

Uruguay’s guerrilla movement Tupamaros were members of a guerrilla movement active in Uruguay in the 1960s and early 1970s. They belonged to the Uruguayan National Liberation Movement and served as a model for other similar organizations in Latin America. Raúl Sendic founded the movement in Montevideo in 1963, taking its name from Tupac Amarú, an Inca leader of the 18th century who fought against Spanish domination. The Tupamaros began with bank robberies to obtain funds to help the neediest classes, but by 1968 they had begun to use assassinations, bombings, and kidnappings with the aim of ending the country’s system of government and establishing a Marxist state. Several spectacular kidnappings of prominent individuals (among them several British and American citizens who were later released) kept the Tupamaros at the center of public attention from 1968 to 1972. The Uruguayan government declared an “internal war” against the organization in 1972 and used the Uruguayan army to combat them; some 3,000 members were imprisoned and another 300 assassinated. In 1985, the year democracy was reestablished in Uruguay, the Tupamaros became a legal political party and most of its members were freed from prison. Uruguayan president José Mujica is a former member of the Tupamaros.

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The structure of today’s government Uruguay’s constitution provides for a republic with three autonomous branches of government. The president is elected by direct popular vote, and serves a single five-year term. He can be reelected after a five-year interval. The president appoints a cabinet made up of 12 ministers, and the heads of various state entities. The legislative branch consists of two houses. The Senate (30 members) is elected at large and the Chamber of Deputies (99 members) is elected proportionally from the 19 departments. Each department gets at least two deputies. The judicial branch consists of a five-person Supreme Court (members are nominated by the president), which interprets the constitution and deals with claims against the government. It also includes various appeals courts, criminal courts, and justices of the peace. Uruguay’s 19 departments are organized similarly to the national government. A departmental governor is elected by popular vote and is assisted by a departmental council chosen on a proportional basis. Montevideo is treated as one of the 19 departments and has a similar governmental structure.

Today’s political scene In the elections of October 2004, 170 years of two-party rule came to an end with the election of Tabaré Vázquez as president of Uruguay. Born in Montevideo in 1940, the oncologist and radiotherapist was the head of the Frente Amplio, still a progressive left-wing party. His closest rival (a Blanco) won 34% of the vote, but his Colorado opponent got only 10% of the vote, marking the end of an era. Vásquez left office with a 70% approval rating; the highest in Latin America.

The presidential runoff In most of Latin America, a presidential candidate must win more than 50% of the vote in order to be elected. Since there are usually more than two candidates, a 50% majority does not occur often. In these cases, a runoff election is held between the top two vote-getters, in order to declare the victor.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

In the 2009 general elections, Agriculture Minister José Mujica (Frente Amplio) won against former president Luis Alberto Lacalle, a Blanco. President Mujica’s remarkable political career began in the 1960s as a high-ranking member of the Tupamaros guerrilla group. He was shot six times by the police while being arrested, spent 14 years in jail, and was actually confined to the bottom of a well for two years.

For the most part, President Mujica has continued the policies of President Vasquez…policies that were good for expats and for business.

Chapter One: A Brief History of Uruguay

© Agência Brasil

The folksy Mujica first had the chance to participate in electoral politics in 1985. Since then, he’s enjoyed a steady political rise, thanks in part to his blunt and downhome style…and his knack for being politically incorrect. Uruguay’s current president José Mujica

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CHAPTER TWO The Language of Uruguay

It’s Spanish…with a local twist Spanish, of course, is the official language of Uruguay. All official government business is conducted in Spanish, including the processes for visas and immigration. The most commonly spoken second languages are English, Italian, and Portuguese. There is also a mixture of Spanish and Portuguese spoken in towns along the border with Brazil, particularly in places like Melo and Chuy. This mixture is often called Portuñol (por tu NYOL), combining the names Português and Español. Some guidebooks erroneously refer to this dialect as Brasileiro, which is actually the Portuguese and Uruguayan word for “Brazilian”. But even if you’re far from any border with Brazil, you’ll note a significant Portuguese influence on Uruguay’s Spanish. For those who already speak Spanish, I’ll have some examples later on. In both written and spoken Spanish in Uruguay, you’ll also note the Italian influence, with a number of Italian words having come into use here. Italian place names are also very common, and are usually pronounced using Italian phonetics. If you already speak Spanish from a different region, don’t worry: people will understand you. Remember that Uruguay is a big tourist destination, and people are used to hearing Spanish from the world over. Also, cable TV has introduced a lot of Uruguayans to Spanish as it’s spoken in Mexico, Colombia, and the U.S. (the places where soap operas and CNN come from). If you don’t speak any Spanish, bear in mind that there won’t be many English-speakers in your day-to-day life in Uruguay, so your experience here will be much more enjoyable if you learn. The chapter gives some useful ideas about language-learning that will help you on your way.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

“Spanish? I’ll just pick it up when I get there.” This is a myth…and it’s one that has misled many an expat. You won’t pick it up when you get there, unless you study it. And the more you study ahead of time, the better off you’ll be. Prior to coming to South America, I’d never had a formal Spanish class. But for two years, I had played Spanish courses on tape while driving to work or when working around the house, which served me well on arrival. While I certainly wasn’t very good, I was able to buy the house, buy a car, and open a bank account, etc., without using any English. When I first arrived, I attended the city’s best language school for a month, which helped a great deal; as did the fact that I didn’t know any English-speakers. Can you get by on English? You certainly can, and I know several expats who do. But their existence is limited to a small circle of fellow Englishspeakers (including premium-priced business people) and they miss most of what the country has to offer. The one piece of advice I would give to every expat—in any country—is that every minute you spend studying the language before arrival will be a worthwhile investment in your future.

Resources for language learning When you’re ready to tackle Spanish, there’s plenty of help available:

Spanish audio courses There are several language courses I have found to be quite good. Generally speaking, be prepared to invest up to $200 for a good, comprehensive course. This is well worth it if you’re planning on living full- or part-time in a foreign country. I’ve found, however, that, in general, all courses are valuable; even the low-end ones. Everything you study will add to the sum of your experience, and a variety of courses will broaden your Spanish knowledge and understanding of different accents.

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Here are a few to try: Pimsleur (www.pimsleur.com) This is a good choice for lessons “on the run”, as there is very little bookwork and the lessons can be played on an MP3 or CD player. In the long haul, you’ll need to catch up on grammar and writing after doing this course, but it’s an extremely fast vocabulary-builder and gets you up and running quickly. The Pimsleur website is not usually the cheapest place to buy Pimsleur courses, and you can easily find discounters on the Internet that will save you money. For example, Used Pimsleur (http://pimsleurmarketplace.com/used_pimsleur) has used CD-based courses starting at $129, and buyback programs. The Gift of Language (www.thegiftoflanguage.com) has courses starting at $165. And Catee’s has 30-lesson downloads for just $119, at www.cateespimsleurdownloads.com. (You can even buy single lessons here, for $4.95). Be sure to get the comprehensive courses, which include 30 lessons. When bundles are available—typically three courses—they’re a good deal, as you will need three courses anyway to get a good start. Rosetta Stone (www.rosettastone.com) The Rosetta Stone course is very popular, and is done interactively on a computer. Their comprehensive courses sell for $179 when sold separately, and for $369 if you buy a three-course bundle. The five-course bundle is $449. For years I was unable to find anyone offering discounts for this course, but I’ve recently noticed that Rosetta Stone has started discounting them on their website, so they’re now the same price as at Amazon.com (www.amazon.com). One advantage that Rosetta Stone has is that they offer Spanish courses that are specific to either Latin America or Spain. Personally, I would not consider buying any less than the three-course bundle if you intend on spending any significant time in Latin America. Berlitz (www.berlitz.com) I’ve long been a fan of the Berlitz language courses, and in fact started my Spanish study with one. But over the years, they have been easing out of the audio course business in favor of their live classes. If you live near a Berlitz center, this may be a good option if you have the time. (There are two in Montevideo. See below for details) If not, Berlitz also offers online classes. These are not self-study, on-your-own courses, but actual online classes, with classmates and a teacher. See their website for more details.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

Online Spanish dictionary There are a number of online dictionary services you can use from your computer, as long as you have Internet access. Here are a few to try: • www.wordreference.com • http://dictionary.reverso.net/spanish-english • www.ectaco.co.uk/English-Spanish-Dictionary Also, note that many of these sites offer dictionary software that can be downloaded to your computer. I’ve had this for years, and find it extremely valuable. There are some free ones out there on the Internet, with others costing as much as $50. My computer-based dictionary is MSDict, available from Brothersoft (website: http://mobile.brothersoft.com/msdict-concise-oxford-spanish-dictionary-englishspanish-11153.html). I use it for both Spanish and Portuguese.

Getting help from MS Word If you use Microsoft Word, you’ll find that Spanish is one of the languages that is pre-loaded in the software, along with English and French. The dictionary for Spanish is quite good, and it will also catch many grammar and gender errors.

In-country Spanish schools Regardless of what kind of preparation you do prior to coming to Uruguay, I’d set time aside to go to an actual language school after you get here. There’s no other way to efficiently learn the Uruguayan style of Spanish. Also, while in class, you’ll learn a lot about the country and how to make your way. There are very few Spanish schools in Uruguay when compared to places like Mexico, Ecuador, Costa Rica, or Guatemala. This is probably because the Spanish spoken in Uruguay and Argentina is so different that most beginners don’t want to learn it…unless they’re coming to Uruguay. Here are a few that I found around the country.

Chapter Two: The Language of Uruguay

What exactly is a plaza? The term plaza is used most often to refer to a park or town square, but it is also used to mean “place”. You’ll see this when real estate agents talk about how many people can sleep in a vacation home. Instead of “sleeps 8”, you’ll see “8 plazas”.

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Berlitz in Uruguay

Berlitz has a convenient language center in Montevideo, right on Plaza Independencia—where Ciudad Vieja meets Centro—as well as a center on Bulivar Artigas. They offer a total immersion class that’s very intense and very effective, due to the time you spend learning and practicing. Berlitz also has classes for individuals or groups that they’ll design to fit your needs. • Berlitz Plaza Independencia, Plaza Independencia 1380 bis, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-5535. • Berlitz Bulevar Artigas, Bulevar Artigas 1263, Montevideo; tel. +598 2403-0121; website: www.berlitz.com.uy/spanish_uy.htm#0. La Herradura

This school has a branch in Granada, Spain, as well as Montevideo. They have a variety of courses, and supplement them with lots of extracurricular activities. • La Herradura Centro de Enseñanza Español, Joaquín de Salteraín 1240, Montevideo; tel. +598 2409-7894; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.spanish-herradura.com. Area Ñ

If you’d like to learn Spanish as it’s spoken in Spain as well as in Uruguay, this school will be a good option. It’s the only one I could find in Colonia. • ĀREA Ñ – Escuela de Español, Calle de San Jose 140, Centro Histórico, Colonia del Sacramento; tel. +598 (95) 473-837 and (786) 272-9426 (in the U.S.); e-mail: [email protected]. Spanish Uruguay

They have a learning center in Montevideo as well as one in Atlántida. In addition to the normal beginner, intermediate, and advanced courses, they also offer special courses geared to specific business disciplines or industries. • Spanish Uruguay; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.spanishuruguay.com.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

Don’t even consider leaving home without these items These are things I consider to be indispensable if you’re moving abroad or traveling to a foreign country: A good Spanish phrase book

This is absolutely essential to making your way in a new country with a new language. A good phrase book is organized by topic, so that all the words and phrases you need for visiting a restaurant, laundry, pharmacy, hardware store, etc., are grouped together. I remember stopping outside a bakery in Madrid years ago, opening my phrase book to the “bakery” section, and memorizing what I was going to say when I went inside, along with what the baker’s response might be. Of course they never responded predictably, but nonetheless, I’d have been lost without it. And I still use it for seldom-used visits, like the doctor or dentist.

Where is that accent from? I found it strange that many people believe that I’m Brazilian when they hear my accent. A man once told me that he had a brother working in my country…and then proceeded to tell me about his brother’s job in São Paulo, Brazil. This is because Brazilian Portuguese has a large variety of vowel sounds and diphthongs—as English does—so English-speakers and Brazilians tend to mispronounce Spanish vowels in the same way. Plus, Uruguayans generally don’t hear many American accents so they don’t pick them out as easily as locals would in Mexico or Panama.

My favorite phrase book has always been Fodor’s Spanish for Travelers, but I’ll admit that I’ve had it since 1996, so I’m probably sentimentally attached to it. I also enjoy using the Berlitz Spanish Phrase Book, and like Lonely Planet’s Latin American Spanish phrase book. There are a lot of good ones on the market. They’re all under $10 and available on Amazon (www.amazon.com). A reputable travel guidebook

This Owner’s Manual will be great for familiarizing you with Uruguay as a potential expat needs to see it, but it’s not a travel guidebook. A good travel guidebook will not only tell you about the restaurants, hotels, and sights in your new country, but will also be an excellent resource for language quirks that are particular to the country. Lonely Planet is one of my favorites, and usually has a good language section.

Chapter Two: The Language of Uruguay

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An electronic pocket dictionary

An electronic pocket Spanish dictionary will be worth its weight in gold. I personally have used the Franklin dictionaries for years (www.franklin.com/dictionaries) and they continue to be my favorite. Several manufacturers also make dictionaries that pronounce the word for you, but I don’t use them for two reasons: One is that Spanish is written phonetically, meaning that the words are always pronounced as they’re written. The other, more important, reason is that most talking models won’t fit in my pocket—and a dictionary is of limited use if it’s not with you when you need it. If you’d like the speaking version to help you with pronunciation, I’d get the pocket version to go with it.

Your Uruguayan real estate dictionary When checking ads online, in the paper, or touring with a Spanish-speaking real estate agents, it’s useful to know the real estate terms used in Uruguay. These terms don’t vary too widely between countries, but you’ll see a few unique items here. The real estate agent

corridor = real estate agent dueño = owner en exclusividad = an exclusive real estate listing, which is rare in Uruguay but not unheard of inmobiliaria = real estate office (corretaje is not used) permuto = trade or exchange

Measurements

metros de construcción (or MC) = meters (square) of construction metros de terreno (or MT) = meters (square) of land hectárea = a hectare, which is 10,000 square meters or 2.47 acres

The house or apartment

aire acondicionado = air conditioning or air conditioned aljibe = water cistern

amoblada = furnished

azotea = roof; most frequently rooftop terrace

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

baldosa = tiles, usually of the antique type used in older homes

baño compartido = shared bathroom among two or more bedrooms baño principal = master bathroom

baño derecepción = the “half” bathroom used by guests bodega = storage room calefacción = heat cartel = sign

closet = closet (non-preferred, placar is more common)

cocina = kitchen, and also used for an electric or gas range

cocina con office = kitchen with built-in cupboards, or kitchen anteroom with cupboards

comedor = dining room

contrafrente = facing away from the front, normally away from the street or view

contribución inmobiliaria = property taxes

dependencia = service quarters (see also servicio) desayunador = breakfast room

dormitorio principal = master bedroom ducha = shower

empotrada = built-in, such as with closets or cupboards

escritorio = study, or home library (oficina and estudio are not used for this) estar = a small family room or sitting room estufa a gas = gas-burning stove

estufa a leña = wood-burning fireplace or wood stove

frente = front; describing an apartment that’s facing the street or view

gastos communes = condo or homeowners’ fees in a building or development

habitación = bedroom (dormitorio and cuarto are understood, but used less often) hogar = fireplace inodoro = toilet

lavandería = laundry room living = living room

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placar = closet/cupboard portero = doorman

pozo de luz (or pozo de aire) = an open space built into city buildings to provide interior light and air to living spaces with no outside windows. Literally, it translates to “light (or air) well”

riego = irrigation, or sprinkler system recepción = foyer rústico = rustic

saladejuegos = game room servicio = maid’s quarters

teja = roof tile, normally clay but sometimes ceramic in Uruguay terraza = terrace

toilette = half-bath (no tub or shower) normally used by visitors in living area vestidor = dressing room

vigilancia = security, by means of a guard or watchman vivienda = dwelling or home vista = view

Utility items and areas bomba = pump

cochera = carport

galpón = storage shed, normally on a rural property

garage = garage (pronounced like the English, with a softer “g”) perforación = fresh water well

pozo = normally a tank or area to catch rainwater, but could also be a cesspool or a well

subsuelo = basement taller = workshop The yard

arbolada = wooded

arboles frutales = fruit trees arroyo = stream

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

deposito = storage area or pantry (rather than bodega) lindero = border, or property line parquizado = park-like

parrilla = barbecue or grill (asador is not used)

portón = large door at the property’s entrance through which you enter the driveway

quebrada = a gulley generally for seasonal runoff, sometimes with a full-time stream

Santa Rita = Bougainvillea

Spanish history When the Iberian Peninsula was conquered by Rome in 19 B.C., Latin became the official language of present-day Spain. But because the Iberian version still retained some vocabulary from the Celts, Visigoths, and Carthaginians, the language was referred to as “Vulgar Latin” by the upper classes in Rome. During the 700-year Moorish occupation of Spain, the official language became Arabic, along with a variation called Mozarabic. But in the northern province of Asturias, Vulgar Latin survived. The Moors were expelled in the late 1400s, but today’s Spanish still includes over 4,000 words with Arabic roots. In 1492, the book Arte de la Lengua Castellana (The Art of the Castilian Language, by Antonio de Nebrija) became the first book to study and attempt to define the grammar of a European language. It began to formalize the Spanish language, almost as we know it today. There are two major dialects in modern Spanish, Castilian and Andalusian, which are fairly similar in nature. Both versions came to the New World, with Andalusian used more commonly outside the high-class cultural centers. In the Americas, Spanish has also picked up many words from the indigenous languages in the region. Spanish is spoken today by around 350 million people. It is the official language of 20 countries (if you count Puerto Rico), and it is widely spoken in many more. For example, 35.5 million people in the United States speak Spanish as their first language at home. And with a total of 45 million fluent Spanish-speakers, the U.S. has more than Spain, Argentina, and Colombia combined.

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Don’t be intimidated by the language All in all, Uruguay is not a difficult place to get used to with respect to the language, unless of course you don’t speak any Spanish at all. If this is the case, I’d suggest that you make a commitment to study it, either before you arrive or soon after you get here. But frankly, Spanish—even Uruguayan Spanish—is not really that hard. With a bit of work you’ll get good at it, regardless of your age or past performance at language-learning. I finally flunked out of French after five years, yet managed to learn Spanish in my mid-40s…and Portuguese in my 50s. So with the right motivation, you can do it too. After all, this time you’ve got the best incentive imaginable for language study: fully enjoying your new home and your new life abroad!

Already speak some Spanish? Here are some Uruguayan peculiarities While Spanish is the official language, be aware that Uruguayan Spanish is different; it won’t sound anything like the Castilian Spanish spoken in Spain or even the textbook versions spoken in places like Mexico, Ecuador, or Colombia. Unless you learned the language in Uruguay or Argentina, it will take a bit of getting used to. First of all, Uruguayan Spanish is often spoken with a melodic lilt or tonal quality, and to the casual listener may sound a bit like Portuguese. Also contributing to the local language is the Italian accent that some Spanish-speakers have here, which is sometimes strong. A number of Portuguese words have crept into the Spanish language in Uruguay, which may be distracting when trying to listen to someone. At times, these words coincidently exist in Spanish, but are often used as they would be in Portuguese. For example, pronto is used here to mean “ready” (as it is in Portuguese), not “soon” as it would be in Spanish.

Familiar or formal? Uruguayans use the familiar or tú form of Spanish almost exclusively, except in formal situations. Even on first meeting, most people skip the usted in favor of familiar Spanish. (For second person plural, however, stick with Ustedes. Vosotros is used only occasionally.)

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And even more familiar than addressing someone as tú is to use vos. In practice, vos is not simply used in place of tú—only in certain contexts. My suggestion here is to listen to how it’s used before trying it yourself.

The dreaded double-L The biggest hurdle that you’ll have to get over is the local pronunciation of the “LL” and the “Y”. These are both pronounced with a “sh” or “zj” sound (as in “measure”), which are generally not even part of the Spanish language. The word calle (street), for example, is pronounced “CAH shay” or “CAH zhey”, instead of the more common “CAH yeh” found elsewhere in Latin America. The word Uruguayo (Uruguayan) is pronounced “oo roo WASH oh”. This will make you stop and think for your first month or so as a resident or visitor in Uruguay.

Just what we needed: Three new verb inflections As if the 17 inflections for each Spanish verb weren’t already enough, you’ll find three new ones here in Uruguay (and in Argentina). When you hear words like ¡Tomá! or ¡Vení!, or mandás, don’t think you’re going crazy. These represent verb inflections that are exclusive to this region. I haven’t been able to figure out their origin, but they’re worth learning. But again, when in doubt, use the traditional verb forms; people will understand. If you already speak Spanish and would like to see how these inflections work, please refer to Appendix B.

Here are some of the notable vocabulary differences As with English, you’ll find many differences in Spanish between the homeland and the colonies, as well as among the colonies. Here are a few examples of cases where Uruguay differs from what you may have heard elsewhere: • For Brazilian the Portuguese Brasileiro is used rather than the Spanish Brasileño. • For a car, the preferred word is auto, while coche is acceptable. Carro is not used. • If something’s really cool, use impecable or bárbaro, not chévere. • A couple (male/female) is a matrimonio, not a pareja.

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• Good morning is buen día, not buenos días. • Here is acá, rather than aquí. • A hotel maid is a mucama, not a camarera. • How are you? is¿Cómo Andas? (How’s it going?) and rarely ¿Como estás? • The main course in a restaurant is the plato principal, never the plato fuerte. • To need follows the Brazilian-preferred precisar rather than the Spanishpreferred necesitar. (A common greeting from a store clerk is “¿Qué precisaba?” meaning “What did you need?” • Perhaps is normally capaz, and occasionally quizás, rarely tal vez. • If you’re ready, you’re pronto, not listo. • A sign is a cartel, not a letrero. • Your waiter is a mozo, not a mesero. • Wrong way on a one-way street is contramano, not contravía. • For you’re welcome use noooo, por favor (or maybe por nada), seldom de nada. These differences aside, you generally won’t have any problem using the terms you’re accustomed to if you already speak Spanish. The list above is a preference, but they often understand the words used in other countries. But be careful: I had a real estate agent refer to a pozo (which in Ecuador is a fresh-water well) and thought I understood. What he was talking about was a cesspool—an important distinction.

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CHAPTER THREE The Uruguayan Economy

When a retiring expat chooses a country, the country’s economy can be among the least-exciting criteria for making that choice. But that’s not true in Uruguay today. In fact, its robust economy, solid financial system and strong currency are among the biggest reasons for today’s popularity. Take look at these latest GDP growth rates, courtesy of the CIA: • Uruguay: 8.5% • Brazil: 7.5%

• Argentina: 7.5% • Germany: 3.5%

• United States: 2.8% • France: 1.5%

Uruguay provides the perfect environment to invest or do business. An exportoriented agricultural sector, a well-educated workforce, and high levels of social spending define its strong economy.

Uruguay’s economic history Uruguay began to play a role on the world economic stage early in its history. In 1860, the first foreign investments took place, with the largest investor being Britain. In 1900, Uruguay’s meat export business started adding significantly to the country’s bottom line. Two things aided the beef export industry. One was the presence of a strong saltpeter industry (used as a preservative) and the other was the development of an industrial refrigerator (in 1905), which made it possible to ship frozen meats to Europe. The worldwide economic crisis of 1929 reached its peak in Uruguay between 1930 and 1931, and prices of Uruguay’s exported raw materials and foods

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declined. Also, many countries began to impose trade restrictions, which further reduced exports. This generated an increase in unemployment as well as a lowering of wages. Uruguay’s recovery from the Great Depression lagged behind that of the U.S., and occurred between 1943 and 1947. During the 1950s—thanks to rising exports of agricultural products— Uruguayans’ incomes were among the highest in Latin America. But in the 1960s, Uruguay imposed its own trade restrictions in an attempt to protect local industry through high tariffs. While at first successful, the long-term results were high inflation, lagging productivity, and low GDP growth. At the same time, creation of the European Economic Community reduced market access to Europe for agricultural products, contributing to economic decline and political instability during the early 1970s.

Saltpeter: Fact and fiction Many of us have heard the rumors that saltpeter (potassium nitrate) has the ability to induce impotence. And everyone who has ever served in the military has heard the rumor that they added it to our food as an antiaphrodisiac. But if these effects were ever realized it was purely psychological, since saltpeter has no such properties. It is, however, used as a food preservative, the primary ingredient in black powder, and an agent to make cigarettes burn more evenly, as well as in the manufacture of ice cream, toothpaste, and treestump remover. Due to its use as a meat preservative, Uruguay’s saltpeter industry was important to its economic growth at the start of the 20th century.

In the mid-1970s, the government liberalized its trade policies and the financial sector, and began reducing public sector employment. This led to solid export and GDP growth. However, the economy suffered from an increasingly overvalued exchange rate and high public-sector deficits, financed by heavy borrowing from overseas. Global recession compounded Uruguay’s problems as exports and foreign investment declined. In November 1982, with the economy in recession, Uruguay abandoned the fixed-exchange rate, and the peso was devalued. The GDP declined 16% from 1982 through 1984 and unemployment soared to 14%. The economy started recovering in 1985 and grew steadily until the late 1990s, achieving a growth rate of 5% annually during the period from 1996 to 1998.

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The new millennium begins with a new economic crisis However in 1999, regional instability and the devaluation of Brazil’s currency started a new recession, aggravated by low commodity prices and an outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease from neighboring countries. Also, an economic and financial crisis was taking shape in Argentina, which led to massive withdrawals of Argentine deposits from Uruguayan banks. These withdrawals led to a plunge in the Uruguayan peso and subsequently a dramatic rise in unemployment.

Uruguayan social indicators are outstanding by Latin American standards, and are comparable to those of the U.S. It enjoys one of the lowest poverty rates, and it tied with Chile for the lowest level of corruption. Uruguay has one of most equitable income distributions in Latin America.

Declining central bank reserves forced the government to abandon its exchange rate policies, and the peso fell to almost half of its value (against the dollar) within a few weeks. Inflation, which was only 3.6% in 2001, rose significantly in 2002.

The total GDP—in the four years between 1999 and 2002—dropped by nearly 20%, with 2002 being the worst year due to the continuing banking crisis in Argentina. Unemployment rose to nearly 20% in 2002, inflation surged, and the burden of external debt doubled.

A bailout from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) limited the damage. The debt swap with private creditors carried out in 2003—which extended the maturity dates on nearly half of Uruguay’s $11.3 billion in public debt—substantially alleviated the country’s amortization burden and restored public confidence.

Should an expat care about corruption? While most of us don’t feel the need to get involved in the politics of our host countries, corruption does in fact have some effect on us. Keep in mind that most corrupt government officials didn’t become dishonest on election day, but rather are a part of a culture where honesty isn’t very high up on the list of virtues. Countries with high corruption levels are typically countries where you have to count your change, lock your car doors, and be careful that you’re not being over-charged. Uruguay has one of the lowest levels of corruption in Latin America (behind only Chile) according to Transparency International’s Corruption Perception Index. Have a look at the entire 2010 index (the latest available at this time) here: www.transparency.org/policy_research/surveys_indices/cpi/2010/results.

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Today’s economic picture in Uruguay Economic growth has been strong since 2004 as a result of high commodity prices for Uruguayan exports, a strong peso, growth in the region, and low international interest rates. Also, in recent years, services such as banking and tourism, as well as non-traditional exports such as textiles, shoes, and rice, have started playing a more important role in the economy. In 2007, Uruguay improved its debt profile by paying off $1.1 billion in IMF debt, and it continues to follow the economic plan established by the IMF back in 2005. The construction of a pulp mill in Fray Bentos—the largest foreign direct investment in Uruguay’s history, at $1.2 billion—came online in November 2007 and is contributing to Uruguay’s economic well-being. Economists believe the mill has added 1.6% to the GDP, boosting Uruguay’s already-rising exports. The economy grew an average of 8% annually between 2004 and 2008. And even in 2009, amid a world recession, Uruguay’s economy grew a respectable 1.7%…better than most of the western world, including neighboring Brazil. The Uruguayan Per-Capita GDP rose 8.5% in 2010, the latest year with final data available.

Key economic statistics for the potential expat I’ve sifted through a mind-boggling amount of economic statistics and selected a few key indicators that will be of interest if you are considering moving to Uruguay. Indicator

Uruguay

Consumer Price Index, 12 months ending October 2011

7.8%

Construction costs YTD September 2011

+3.2%

Salaries YTD October, 2011

+12.78%

Unemployment, 12 months ending September 2011

6%

This official data is courtesy of the Instituto Nacional de Estadisticas, and are the latest available as of December 13, 2011. Unemployment dropped once again since 2010, while inflation is higher. Note that, unlike the U.S., food and fuel are part of the Consumer Price Index in Uruguay.

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Inter-country comparison of key indicators Uruguay’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) stands at $48 billion. But to most of us, that in itself doesn’t mean a great deal, since much of a country’s GDP is a function of its size rather than its economic health. Likewise, even numbers adjusted to the country’s size may not be meaningful unless you can compare them to something. Here are some additional indicators, along with how they compare to other popular expat destinations: Indicator GDP per capita GDP real growth Poverty level (households) Public debt (percent of GDP) Trade deficit/ surplus Budget deficit/ surplus

Uruguay $13,700 () 8.5% () 20.9% ()

Mexico $13,900 () 5.5% () 47% (↔)

Panama $13,000 () 7.5% () 25.6% ()

Ecuador $7,800 () 3.2% () 33.1% ()

56.3% ()

36.9% ()

43.3% ()

23.2% ()

2.8% deficit () 1% deficit ()

40.8% deficit () 8.7 % deficit ()

4 % deficit () 11.2% deficit () 6.9% deficit ()

9.3% deficit ()

This data is courtesy of The World Factbook, published by the U.S. Central Intelligence Agency. They are the latest available as of December 13, 2011. To put these numbers in perspective, here are a couple of economic powerhouses…an old dynasty and a new one: Indicator GDP per capita

United States $47,200 ()

Brazil $10,800 ()

GDP real growth

2.8% ()

7.5% ()

Poverty level (households)

15.1% ()

26% (↔)

Public debt (percent of GDP)

62.9% ()

54.7% ()

Trade deficit/surplus

50% deficit ()

10% surplus ()

Budget deficit/surplus

37% deficit ()

7.9% surplus ()

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A good economic climate for the expat The Uruguayan economy is ideal for retirees and expats: even those who are no longer economically active. There are a couple of reasons for this. One is the low levels of poverty, along with Uruguay’s relatively high standard of living and large middle class. This results in lower levels of crime, and a generally more pleasant society in which to live. Another reason is that if you do want to actively invest, start a company, or do business here, Uruguay offers a good environment in which to do so.

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CHAPTER FOUR Finding Your Region and Your Home

With so many great lifestyle choices, your biggest problem in Uruguay may be deciding where to live. The country gives you several terrific options for city life, as well as perhaps the widest array of seaside alternatives that you’re likely to see, from small waterfront homes to sprawling oceanfront mansions valued in the millions. Uruguay is also home to one of Latin America’s most beautifully restored colonial cities, vast stretches of ranchland, and small towns that will remind you of the American Midwest. Regardless of the lifestyle you’re looking for, chances are you’ll find it in Uruguay.

Getting to know Uruguay: Our journey around the country We’ll start our in-depth tour in Montevideo. From there, we’ll head east and then north along the coast to Brazil. Then, leaving the Brazilian border, we’ll go inland to explore the cities of Uruguay’s Interior. Next, we’ll come down the Uruguay River and Río de la Plata while looking at Uruguay’s best buys on colonial homes and its lowest cost of living. In order to help you follow this tour of Uruguay, we’ve included some maps in Appendix A.

Montevideo: A world capital that can feel like a small town It’s mid-July—the dead of winter in Uruguay. Although it’s sunny and the temperature outside today in Montevideo is 65° F, the Uruguayans I see in the park outside my window are bundled up as if we were in International Falls, Minnesota. These folks definitely don’t have much tolerance for winter…but, as a former resident of Vermont, I’d say it’s pretty mild.

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Lunch today was at the Brazilian Club, about a half-block from my downtown apartment. The view from their thirdfloor window was great, as was the grilled sea bass entree, wine, flan dessert, and espresso. Well worth the $7.

Remember, a complete list of contact information can be found in Appendix A, including real estate professionals, tourist information, and medical facilities.

©Lee Harrison

This evening, we’ll decide between the orchestra at Teatro Solís and a jazz quartet at Sala Zitarrosa…or maybe we’ll just take our lawn chairs downstairs to Plaza Entrevero to join our neighbors, as everyone dances the tango to music in the park.

Contact information?

Tango dancers regularly show off their skills on the streets of Montevideo

Afterwards, we’ll have to choose between Panini’s—one of the best fine-dining venues that Montevideo has to offer—or a local parrillada, with its eight foot-long wood-fired grill, sizzling with delectable meats and vegetables, or one of the dozens of small neighborhood restaurants within a few blocks of our apartment. Tuesdays and Fridays are when our local street market arrives: when the vendors close the street to sell their fresh fruits and vegetables, and all the neighbors turn out to see what looks good. On Saturday I’ll look forward to the flea market at Plaza Constitución, followed by lunch at the old waterfront port.

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This lifestyle is just what I was looking for in a city apartment. Just about everything I need can be found on my block, and everything I want to do is within easy walking distance. This is city life in Montevideo, and is what attracted me to Uruguay in the first place.

Montevideo city map

For a map of the city of Montevideo, click here: www.nationsonline.org/oneworld/map/google_map_Montevideo.htm.

A capital city with beaches Within Montevideo, the beaches are surprisingly wide, clean, and well-kept… or at least most of them are. Crowds of bathers and sun-worshipers enjoy them throughout the summer and well into the fall. But the most cheerful sight in town is the beachfront “boardwalk”, with its multitude of people jogging, strolling, socializing, or walking their dogs along the shoreline.

©Lee Harrsion

The scene lends the city a bright and positive air that stays with you long after you’ve passed by.

Montevideo has some very nice, clean beaches, popular with the locals and tourists alike

Ciudad Vieja—Montevideo’s historic center This is the original Montevideo, where the city started centuries ago. And Ciudad Vieja is also the heart of Montevideo’s business and financial district. It has only about 16,000 permanent residents—and measures just seven by 13 city Chapter Four: Finding Your Region and Your Home

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blocks—while over 100,000 people come to work here on weekdays. Locals and tourists, on the other hand, own the weekends. It reminds me of Manhattan, which enjoys a totally different character between weekdays and weekends. Ciudad Vieja is where you’ll find the national theater, Teatro Solís, and a few of the city’s best bars and restaurants, as well as antique stores, bookshops, art galleries, and jewelry stores, all with reasonable prices. Bisecting the most popular section of Ciudad Vieja, Peatonal Sarandí is a pedestrian walkway (you’ll see the word peatonal often in Uruguay, it’s used to describe a pedestrian walkway). Construction began on the first phase in 1995, its second phase was completed in 2005, and its final phase was finished in 2010. In its wake, Peatonal Sarandí is creating a more-upscale environment, as high-end shops, restaurants, and artisans replace a somewhat run-down part of the city. The same is happening now with Peatonal Pérez Castillano.

©Lee Harrison

Plaza Zabala is located in the center of Ciudad Vieja, and it is Montevideo’s original central square. Shaded by tall trees, it is small, quiet, and residential, but located only one block from the now-famous Peatonal Sarandí, with its nice restaurants and cafés.

If you want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a while, relax in the shady Plaza Zabala

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But be aware that there are two sides to Ciudad Vieja, as is the case with most of Montevideo. The artisans, galleries, and theaters are one face of Ciudad Vieja. But on the other hand, parts of the west end of this sector look like they’ve been through an urban civil war, and appear to be many years away from any sort of urban renewal. Beautifully restored buildings can coexist just a short distance from crumbling heaps, and you’ve got to study the trends to know which way the gentrification is moving. Also, Ciudad Vieja has Montevideo’s worst crime, as the city’s pickpockets, thieves, and beggars come to welcome the tourists to the city, a situation that has improved quite a bit as Ciudad Vieja continues through its restoration.

Today’s investment picture in Ciudad Vieja At this time, Ciudad Vieja is a hotbed of investment. When I first wrote about it in 2005 it was on the verge of taking off, and now it has—in a much bigger way than I had imagined—thanks to an inrush of foreign property buyers, including a few dozen International Living readers. The majority of investors are Spanish, who are bringing their euros to Montevideo in search of added-value projects, or what I like to call “fixer-uppers”. According to Isidoro Kosak, owner of one of the zone’s biggest real estate companies, close to half of the sales in Ciudad Vieja are to Spanish investors, who are typically earning in excess of 300% on their projects. This huge influx of investment is being aided by Montevideo’s intrinsic value. It is a seaport city that’s well located, boasts an excellent infrastructure, hosts a regional financial center, and offers good city services. And what is even better is that the hot market has not really changed the entry-level prices of the “fixer-uppers” all that much. These properties are still reasonable, even though the prices for the finished product have risen sharply. Right now, there’s the newly-completed section of Peatonal Sarandí as well as a new section of Peatonal Pérez Castillano, which joins Sarandí to the famous Port Market. If I were investing in Ciudad Vieja today, I’d put my money into properties along one of those two projects.

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Two IL readers invest in Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja The grizzled barman took up station at his ancient, gleaming-brass espresso machine and started to operate the hand pump to make the aromatic and flavorful brew. I claimed a well-worn, wooden table next to the window in order to watch the morning crowd on their way to work in Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo’s historic center. At the next table, a group of old men who looked like they belonged on the movie set for Cannery Row chided the bartender for missing his turn at dominoes, and for failing to pour the next round of whiskeys. I figured they’d all be asleep by noon. “Buen provecho,” the barman told us, as he set down the steaming cappuccinos. He then proceeded to lumber outside, in order to arrange the now-obligatory little café tables and striped umbrellas in front of his small neighborhood café…in what used to be a somewhat-rundown area. But the neighborhood is not rundown anymore. A revival started a few years ago, and it’s still going strong. And as is often the case, International Living readers are right in the thick of it. There’s a lot to draw you to Ciudad Vieja these days. All-night tango clubs will compete for your attention with the symphony performing at the national theater. An open-air artisan market will hope to draw you from the high-end boutiques and art galleries, while tiny cafes—where old men sip cappuccino and argue world events—will be thriving a block from the city’s best fine dining. The choices are many, varied, and wonderful. And in the middle of all this, IL readers are here buying properties for restoration, second homes, and rental properties. Two of our most recent arrivals on the scene are Bernd Vey and Tim Sally. They came to Uruguay and had a look at the three major hotspots: Colonia, Punta del Este, and Montevideo. Montevideo is the one that caught their eye. Specifically, the sector that Tim referred to as the “quickly gentrifying Ciudad Vieja.” After looking at a good number of private homes and remodeled apartments, they came across a high-end renovation of a classic 1950s building…right on the pedestrian walkway that’s at the heart of Ciudad Vieja’s renovation. Tim tells me that they chose Uruguay for its climate, relatively low price of real estate, ease of banking, and its open, honest and tolerant culture. And their property is “a place to escape to during the Canadian winter that will also provide income at other times of the year,” he says.

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The contractor delivered their well-equipped, modern apartment, and they furnished and decorated it on the local market. It’s a rental property situated in the area that’s most sought-after by visitors to Montevideo. They did a super job…you can have a look at the property here: www.casasarandi356.com. I come to Montevideo every few weeks, and always enjoy the fine dining, music, and shows. But nonetheless, you shouldn’t come to Montevideo just for the upscale restaurants and entertainment. Come for the old neighborhoods and the local markets and swap meets set up in the street…come for the grizzled barman and his hand-operated espresso press. These are what the city is really about.

Property samples in Ciudad Vieja • There’s an apartment on a plaza in Ciudad Vieja. The 1,076-square-foot property is on the third floor, overlooking the shady and tranquil Plaza Zabala. Both bedrooms have this view, as does the living room and the maid’s quarters are in the back. The building was constructed in 1960 and is maintained in good condition. Price: $150,000. Contact CH Inmuebles at: e-mail: [email protected]. • Another good looking investment in Ciudad Vieja is a house built in 1950, with four bedrooms and two bathrooms in 1,614 square feet of living space. It is located on the pedestrian walkway just two blocks from the popular tourist destination Mercado del Puerto and is ready to be remodeled into an attractive home or B&B. Price: $115,000. Contact Tesouro Negocios Inmobiliariaos for further details; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.tesouro.com.uy. • A small, three-floor property with a storefront on the street level and a twofloor home above it. Built in 1920, the total floor space is 1,398 square feet and it includes three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a newly remodeled kitchen, and a rooftop terrace with views of the port and the bay. Price: $110,000. Contact Casco Antiguo Propiedades for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.cascoantiguopropiedades.com.

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English spoken here? Maybe not. While you may find English spoken in Uruguay’s tourism industry and among many professionals, you’ll find fewer real estate agents who speak English fluently. (An exception is Reynolds Properties in Ciudad Vieja…everyone on their staff that I’ve met speaks fluent English.) When calling the contacts given in this section and in Appendix A, first ask if the person you are speaking to speaks English. If they don’t, they will usually hand you off to someone in the office who does. Most offices have at least one person. Use the real estate terms given in Chapter Two, and you’ll be fine while looking at properties with a Spanish-speaking real estate agent, even if you don’t speak any Spanish.

• If you’re looking for a property that’s all ready to move into, there’s a nice studio apartment on Peatonal Walkway Sarandí. Built in 2001, it’s a second-floor unit, with 1,097 square feet of living area with a single bedroom and bathroom. Price: $102,000. Contact AC Propiedades at; e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://acpropiedades.com. A note on property prices: The properties listed in this chapter are ones that we chose because we’d personally consider living there…good properties at low prices. They are not the least expensive properties available.

Centro—A great-value neighborhood This is another good sector for city living…and in fact I’d say it’s better than its neighbor, Ciudad Vieja. Centro is bordered by Ciudad Vieja on the west, Cordón on the east, and mostly water on the north and south. Centro has several advantages over Ciudad Vieja for a resident. Tall sycamores line most of the streets, which make for a prettier environment. It does not have the tourists and visitors that Ciudad Vieja has, so it doesn’t have the attendant crime and annoyances. Yet there are beautiful plazas, historic buildings, and plenty of fine restaurants. Centro has much more of a neighborhood feel than I’d expected. My own apartment was located here, and it didn’t take long to get to know the local merchants, restaurant owners, and neighborhood characters. There is a wide selection of parrilladas, neighborhood restaurants, and local cafés, as well as the

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©Lee Harrsion

Brazil Club and the Basque Club, both of which are open to the public. Some of my favorites are tucked away so well that it took me a year to discover them.

Centro’s Plaza del Entrevero has a “neighborly” feel to it and is a good part of Montevideo for city living

Best of all, the property prices are usually less than what you’ll find in Ciudad Vieja for a “move-in condition” property.

Two names for each plaza I’m not sure how this came to be, but many of the plazas (parks) in Montevideo have ended up with two names. Plaza Matriz—today’s main square in Ciudad Vieja—is also known as Plaza Constitución. Centro’s Plaza del Entrevero is also called Plaza Fabini, and Plaza Cagancha is also Plaza Libertad. (I’ve given the name preferred by the locals first in each case.) This can cause confusion, and in fact it took me months to figure it out. The name that the plaza is known by locally is often not the one used in guidebooks, or even the name used on signs at the park itself.

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Property samples in Centro • San José is a great street for finding everything at your fingertips, from cafés to mom-n-pop hardware stores to wine and chocolates. There’s a nice property just a block away from the beautiful Plaza Entrevero. Built in 1960, the 1,614-square-foot apartment is on the fourth floor, with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, maid’s quarters, and rich parquet floors. Price $170,000. For additional information, contact Brodski Propiedades; e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://inmobrodski.com. • If you want to be close to the heart of Montevideo, there’s one really close to Plaza Independencia and has wonderful Centro views from its sixthfloor living room. Built in 1928, this bright apartment has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a terrace, and air conditioning. Price $110,000. Contact CD Propiedades for further details; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.cdpropiedades.com.uy. • On Libertador there’s an eighth-floor apartment with amazing views in several directions, including Montevideo’s bay and an attractive plaza. With 1,076 square feet of living area, it offers three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a well-equipped kitchen and central heating, as well as garage parking below. Price $172,000. Contact ARES Inmobiliaria for more information: e-mail: [email protected]. • A stylish apartment on Plaza Independencia, with 1,215 square feet of living space in impeccable condition. The three bedrooms and living areas have beautiful parquet floors from 1928, and the kitchen is big enough for a breakfast table. This sixth-floor apartment also has great views from its central position overlooking the plaza. Price $169,000. Contact the listing real estate agent Caputto & Gandolfo at: e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://caputtogandolfo.com. Important note: All properties in Uruguay are priced in U.S. dollars (written US$, or U$S), while condo fees, taxes, etc. will be in pesos ($). Be careful to notice the difference in symbols when you see prices—not only for real estate, but anywhere. All prices in this book are listed in U.S. dollars, unless otherwise stated.

Some of Montevideo’s finest areas If you are willing to spend a bit more, Montevideo offers some nice neighborhoods you’re sure to find attractive. The values are terrific, featuring classic buildings, large apartments and houses, excellent quality construction, and pleasant, treed neighborhoods.

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Most Uruguayans I know do not live in Centro or Ciudad Vieja, but rather in Montevideo’s more upscale areas. What’s nice about these neighborhoods is that they don’t feel like outliers or suburbs. While still part of the city, they are each fairly self-contained, with their own “downtown” areas, super restaurants and cafés, and a unique character.

© Dreamstime.com/Carlos Gregorini

Pocitos is an upscale community that’s a favorite among Uruguayans. Its restaurants and beaches are the best in the city. It also has become somewhat of a “branded” neighborhood. When you hear “Pocitos” in Montevideo, it’s synonymous with “exclusive, nice, and high-end”.

The neighborhood of Pocitos is a high-end area of the city with the best beaches and restaurants

Buceo, Malvin, and Punta Gorda are also pleasant seaside neighborhoods, which offer quiet sycamore-lined streets, good shopping areas, and access to nice downtown beaches. In any of these areas, you can expect to pay as high as $3,000 per square meter ($279 per square foot) for the nicest properties, although you can find low-end properties for much less. • A neat Pocitos 1950-vintage house with three bedrooms, one-and-a-half bathrooms, air conditioning, and alarm systems, completely remodeled and ready to go. It’s a cozy house, just 1,140 square feet but quite nicely remodeled, and the rooftop terrace is huge. Price: $186,500. Contact Janet Rosenchtein for details: e-mail: [email protected].

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• In a quiet area of Pocitos, there’s a 1960s apartment in very good condition on offer. A first-floor unit, it has a peaceful leafy view of the street with two bedrooms, two bathrooms and an office, as well as a nice terrace off the living area. Everything has been remodeled and air conditioning is installed. Price $160,000. For more information, contact Silvana Corsato Inmobiliaria: e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.crosato.com.uy. • A classic Pocitos house, well worth restoration, has arched wooden windows, period molding details, and high ceilings. This cozy two-story house has 1,431 square feet of living area, three bedrooms, and one-anda-half bathrooms. This would be a great investment in a high-end area. Price: $190,000. For more information, contact Prandi Grupo Inmobiliario at www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/. One of the nicest areas in the city is Carrasco, home to many foreign businessmen and diplomats. It’s near the international airport, and enjoys such amenities as bilingual schools, golf and tennis clubs, and a polo and equestrian club. Carrasco has a beautiful beach, it’s only 20 minutes from Ciudad Vieja or Centro, and just over an hour from the famous resorts at Punta del Este. • There’s an attractive house for sale in Barra de Carrasco. A brick two-story built in 2002, the house has 1,506 square feet of living area, with three bedrooms, one-and-a-half bathrooms, and a spacious living/dining area with fireplace. There’s also alarm and irrigation systems, a two-car garage, along with an electrical heating system with area controls. Price: $220,000. Contact Molla Profesionales Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: [email protected]. • In a quiet neighborhood of Carrasco, there’s a small brick house of 1,291 square feet with beautiful gardens and an interior patio. Built in 1986, the house has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, air conditioning, and a two-car garage. Price: $175,000. For additional information, e-mail: [email protected]. • There’s a beauty on the rambla of Carrasco. This house has a gorgeous waterfront view and 1,614 square feet of living area, including three bedrooms and three bathrooms on two floors. Floors are tropical hardwood and there’s a two-car garage and a nice sized yard. Price: $248,000. Contact Praino Propiedades for additional information at; e-mail: [email protected].

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• If you’re more interested in apartment living, there are plenty of classy new ones on the market in Carrasco, ready for move-in. For example, you can buy a 1,861-square-foot, three-bedroom, two-bathroom unit in the lovely Alamos de Carrasco. Complex amenities include heated pool, club house, gym, spa, tennis courts, and 24-hour security. Price: $208,000. Contact the broker at [email protected] for details.

Long-term rentals in Montevideo If you’re interested in a long-term rental in the Montevideo area, there is no shortage of apartments for rent, and prices are reasonable. Generally speaking, owners are charging between $1 and $1.50 per square foot for monthly rent, depending on the classiness of the view, the furnishings, and the neighborhood. What’s surprising is that this rate doesn’t seem to change much when you compare furnished to non-furnished apartments. However, in addition to the monthly rent, the long-term renter also pays the gastos comunes or monthly building maintenance fees, which range from $150 to $250 per month, depending mostly on the existence of central heating. • For example, a 968-square-foot apartment available in Ciudad Vieja right now costs $796 per month, but it also has gastos comunes of $131, for a total outlay of $927 per month. • The average cost to rent a two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment in Centro or Ciudad Vieja at this time is $750 per month, with average gastos just under $200. • In Pocitos or Carrasco, the average rental cost for a two-bedroom, twobathroom apartment is much higher at $1,300 per month, with gastos comunes around $200. If you rent the same apartment on the waterfront, it will average $1,900 per month, with monthly gastos around $400. If you’re looking for a furnished rental, they are not quite as plentiful, but there are some. I took a sample in the neighborhoods of Centro, Pocitos, Buceo, and Malvin, and found that of the 308 annual (or non-vacation) rentals, 23% are furnished. Is Montevideo for you?

Montevideo is perfect for those who are looking for good city living, which accommodates all budgets, tastes, and lifestyles. From the old city gates of Ciudad Vieja to the beaches of Carrasco, there’s sure to be something for you.

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Ciudad de la Costa Uruguay’s beaches begin in downtown Montevideo and continue all the way to Brazil, almost 200 miles away. As you can imagine, the character of the coast changes dramatically along the way. Ciudad de la Costa (“city of the coast”) is the first beach area that you’ll find when leaving Montevideo to the east. It begins at the Montevideo city limit and extends to the waterway called Arroyo Pando. It includes the balnearios (shore points, or beaches) of Lagomar, Shangrila, Solymar, and El Pinar. Ciudad de la Costa begins as a somewhat tired-looking suburb with a commercial feel, but don’t be discouraged; it soon turns into a nicely wooded seaside area, thick with pines and sprinkled with pleasant beaches and small towns.

The ocean is not ocean, and beachfront is not beachfront This part of the Uruguayan coast is technically not on the Atlantic Ocean, but on Río de la Plata, where this 186-milewide river joins the ocean. Geographically speaking, the Atlantic begins further up the coast at Punta del Este. As you move eastward, the often-murky Río de la Plata has less influence on the blue ocean waters, which get nicer as you move toward Punta del Este and beyond. Throughout Uruguay, “beachfront” properties are usually not directly on the beach, but on the other side of the beachfront road, known as the rambla. This leaves the beaches uncluttered and open to the public. Keep this in mind when looking at listings. In this book, if a property is located directly on the sand, I’ll mention it specifically.

The houses in this area feel like all-year homes, and in fact some people here make the easy daily commute to Montevideo, either driving on the coastal highway or using the frequent public transit. Ciudad de la Costa ends at the town of El Pinar, a small yet self-sufficient village that borders on the stream Arroyo Pando. El Pinar is at a point where the coastal road traffic must either turn away from the coast to get on the highway or dead-end into the wide mouth of Arroyo Pando. Consequently, it’s a quiet town with no through traffic, giving it a secluded feel despite its proximity to Montevideo.

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Property samples in Ciudad de la Costa • In El Pinar, there’s a neat three-bedroom, two-bathroom beach house. Built in 2000, this 1,398 square foot house has air conditioning, a single car garage, and a nice fenced yard. Price: $130,000. Contact Inmobiliaria Espacio for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.espacioni.com. • There’s a nice property right now in Shangrila Sur. Total living area is over 2,150 square feet, with a fenced yard and impressive brick building in the back, housing an oversized two-car garage and the barbecue and entertainment area. The main house is nicely laid out on two floors, with spacious rooms and double brick walls. The two-bedroom, two-bathroom house has plenty of space for a third bedroom. Price: $248,000. This one is listed with Costacasas Propiedades. Contact them at; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.costacasas.com.uy. • A solid little bargain of a house in Solymar Sur, with 1,506 square feet of living space, including three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a fireplace, and nice wood finishings. There’s also a garage and a small fenced yard with barbecue. Price: $125,000. Inmobiliaria Varela can supply more information at; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.sigaloavarela.com. • In Lagomar Sur, there’s a tempting property a block off the rambla with plenty of space for family and friends. There are three buildings included: a three-car garage, a guest house and barbecue, and a main house with three bedrooms and three bathrooms. Combined living area is 3,228 square feet. The house has a big eat-in style kitchen, two big fireplaces, a family room, and a swimming pool. Price: $230,000. Contact [email protected] for further details .

Rentals in Ciudad de la Costa If you’d like to rent in this area, it’s easy to find unfurnished houses available for long-term lease. Most of them are in Solymar, El Pinar, and Lagomar. To generalize prices, a small house (two bedroom, two bathroom, and approximately 750 square feet) rents for between $600 and $800 a month, while a larger one, or one on the rambla, goes for $1,000 to $2,000. The advantage of renting a house is that there are no gastos comunes to worry about. Is Ciudad de la Costa for you?

For those looking for a tranquil seaside spot within an easy commute to Montevideo, Ciudad de la Costa may just fit the bill.

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Costa de Oro This part of the coast—“gold coast” in English—goes between waterways Arroyo Pando and Arroyo Solís Grande. It includes the balnearios of Neptunia, Pinamar, Salinas, Marindia, Villa Argentina, Atlántida, Las Toscas, Parque del Plata, and La Floresta. The Costa de Oro was one of Uruguay’s early seashore destinations, harkening back to the days before coastal travelers had a fast, modern highway. But, once Piriápolis and Punta del Este began to develop (and became an easy drive from Montevideo), much of the vacation business migrated up the coast in their direction.

©Lee Harrison

What progress left behind on the Costa de Oro was a mature and wooded coastal setting free of highrises and with few casinos, but loaded with nowinexpensive properties.

The Costa de Oro is a wooded coastal area, without the highrises that you’ll find in the more popular coastal resorts

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This section of coastline does not have the reputation or the international traffic you’ll find in Punta del Este, so don’t look for Punta del Este’s impressive returns or highly liquid market. The ocean here is really the mouth of a river, so it will lose its blue color when upstream rains or Argentine currents bring runoff. Yet for seaside living, this stretch of coast now represents the best value in Uruguay. Yes, there are better investments if you want capital gain or rental returns. But Costa de Oro is where you’ll pay the least to be among nice surroundings on the water. The town of Salinas shares much of its service/commercial center with the nearby town of Pinamar, but also has a gym, day care center, and hardware store of its own, as well as a bus terminal on the beach where you can catch the bus to or from Montevideo. • On the rambla in Salinas, there’s a solid, four-bedroom, two-bathroom home for sale, with 1,345 square feet of living area and water views. The house, built in 1970, has fireplaces in both the living room and master bedroom. The property has irrigation and alarm systems installed. Price: $80,000. For more details, contact Elena Martinelli Inmobiliaria; e-mail: [email protected]. • Also on offer in Salinas is the largest and most fetching house in the area. Built in 1960, with over 130 feet of rambla frontage and 5,500 square feet of living area, the property would easily support a beautiful B&B, social club, or a very large family. There are six bedrooms, three bathrooms, and covered parking for eight cars and a half-acre lawn. Price: $195,000. For further details, contact Julieta Inmobiliaria; e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://julietainmobiliaria.com. Marindia is a quiet town at the end of the coastal road, with long stretches of beach and few dwellings. It’s hilly, so properties have unobstructed views over the dunes to the water. Marindia has a clinic, supermarkets, Internet cafés, a lawyer, bars, a vet, and a pharmacy. I also found a movie rental store and a bakery to round out the services. • In Marindia, there’s an attractive 3,000-square-foot, water view property on an elevated third of an acre lot, with four bedrooms, two-and-a-half bathrooms, and a garage. The house has two stories and is located less than 100 yards from the water. Price: $250,000. For details, contact Praga Negocios Inmobiliarios; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.praga.com.uy.

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Atlántida: The centerpiece of Costa de Oro Located about 28 miles east of Montevideo and 50 miles west of Punta del Este, Atlántida is 20 minutes from the international airport, with good public transportation available to both the airport and the city. Its permanent population of around 3,500 grows to almost 20,000 during peak periods in the summer. Atlántida was the most pleasant surprise of the entire coastal trip I made when researching this book.

©Lee Harrison

Summertime Atlántida is an upbeat, bustling seaside resort, popular with local residents, vacationers, and day travelers from Montevideo. The beaches are golden and sandy as they follow the curves of the shoreline around the point. The sheltered waters are typically calm with little wave action or undertow. The city maintains a shady, green waterfront park along most of the beach, where picnickers come to spend the afternoon.

Atlántida is a pleasant beach resort with golden, sandy beaches and an affordable range of real estate

Atlántida’s sidewalk cafés and restaurants are busy; they fill the air with smoke from their wood-fired grills, sizzling steaks, chorizo, chicken, and grilled vegetables.

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The town itself consists mainly of stately, larger homes, reminiscent of a bygone era. Most streets are lined with giant eucalyptus trees that provide a peaceful, shady setting. Atlántida is fairly self-sufficient, with a local movie theater, hardware and grocery stores, churches, a country club, and even a clinic. In the winter things quiet down and the town’s permanent residents go about their everyday lives. Atlántida doesn’t become a ghost town as do some resorts, but you certainly won’t find the level of activity that you will between the summer months of December and March. I’ve been there to see it on a weekend in mid-winter, and found it fairly active with most restaurants open. Considering its beauty, its beaches, and its prices, you won’t find a better deal than Atlántida.

Property samples in Atlántida • Not right on the rambla, but still enjoying nice water views from the terrace, there’s a two-story thatched-roof or quincho cottage built in 2005, but looking like something out of a fairy tale. The house has 1,183 square feet of living space, including three bedrooms and two bathrooms. There’s an alarm system, irrigation system, air conditioning, and attached carport. Price: $155,000. For more information, contact D&L Propiedades; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.dlpropiedades.com.uy. • On the waterfront road in Las Toscas, there’s a brick home for sale with 1,721 square feet of living area on two floors. It’s a well-maintained, four-bedroom, two-bathroom house. Notable in this house is an amazing fireplace, open on all four sides and attractive windows in the living and dining areas. Price: $145,000. Contact Viola Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. • My favorite property in Atlántida is a beautiful old classic overlooking the village beach at the high point of the rambla. Built in 1930, the 1,900-square-foot home on two floors is being sold furnished, and comes with five bedrooms, three bathrooms and complete maids quarters. Price: $220,000. This one is also listed with Viola Inmobiliaria; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy.

Arriving at the river Arroyo Solís Chico Parque del Plata lies at the end of the beachfront rambla, where it turns inland along Arroyo Solís Chico. It is a quiet area, with good boating on the wide river and the sea, and a local yacht club. Parque del Plata typically has the best bargains on this stretch of coast.

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• One of my favorite properties in this area is a two-story fixer-upper built in 1955, sitting on a corner facing the river. The house has 1,258 square feet of living area which includes two bedrooms and two bathrooms, a fireplace in the living-dining area, all with old fashioned, hand painted tile floors. The lot sets off the house really well, with a low wall and hedge surrounding it. There’s also a single-car garage and covered barbecue attached to a storage building. Price: $66,000. For details, contact Moreno Inmobiliaria; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmobiliariamoreno.com. • With incredible views of the beach dunes and flowers, there’s a roomy, well-maintained house for sale in Parque del Plata. It has 1,936 square feet of living area, with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a large eat-in kitchen, and a single car garage. Price: $220,000. For additional information, contact Viola Inmobiliaria; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy.

Should I buy directly from an owner? It’s easy and safe to buy directly from an owner in Uruguay. Unlike the U.S., the escribano in Uruguay takes care of most of the paperwork anyway (not the real estate agent). Looking at properties with a real estate agent is still much more convenient. But remember; when you buy directly from an owner, you save not only the 3% commission, but also the significant sum that real estate agents typically add to the owner’s asking price. La Floresta is located across the river on the east bank of Arroyo Solís Chico, just prior to a long stretch of mostly undeveloped coast heading towards Piriápolis. It has full services, including a centerpiece old hotel and country club. The shady, quiet, and clean streets provide a pleasant residential setting for its bright, sandy beaches. • If you’re not afraid of some simple repairs, there’s a bargain right on the rambla in La Floresta, just 10 yards from the dunes. It’s a two-story, brick house with 1,614 square feet of living area, three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a one-car garage. The water views from this one—along with its proximity to town and to the beach—are unbeatable. Price $120,000. For details, contact Voila Inmobiliaria; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. • Voila Inmobiliaria (contact details as above) also has a roomier house listed in La Floresta only a block back from the rambla. This 1,900-square-foot home is surrounded by beautiful grounds and includes four bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a garage. Price: $145,000.

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Rentals in Costa de Oro If you’d like to rent in this area, it’s easy to find unfurnished houses available for long-term lease. Most of them are in Atlántida. To generalize prices, a small house (two bedroom, two bathroom, and with less than 1,000 square feet) rents for between $400 and $650 a month, while a larger one, or one on the rambla, goes for $700 to $1,200. There are variations in both directions, of course. Is the Costa de Oro for you?

Costa de Oro has Uruguay’s best prices for seaside living. While it may not provide the rental returns or the glamour of many other destinations, it’s the best place to find a good home in a beach community at an economical price. It’s probably the most affordable seaside winter getaway you’ll find anywhere in Latin America.

The Piriápolis area This region of the coast doesn’t have a clever name like Costa de Oro, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t some great places to live and some super values. The anchor of this stretch of coastline is Piriápolis, one of Uruguay’s first destination seashore resorts. But there’s a lot more to see here as well. This section begins at the river known as Arroyo Solís Grande, and we’ll cover the towns of Solís, Bella Vista, Playa Hermosa, Piriápolis, Punta Colorada, Playa Chihuahua, and Portezuelo. Solís is located at Kilometer 83—some 51 miles from downtown Montevideo. It has a long, wide beach that borders a long, sweeping cove several miles in length. The beach has both sandy and rocky segments, and is bordered by grassy dunes. The town itself has a somewhat run-down feel, or perhaps the feel of a yesteryear beach town. Solís is home to a Colonia de Vacaciones (an old resort complex) as well as the Alcion Hotel. If you head west along the seafront, you’ll come to a beautiful area along Arroyo Solís Grande that is noted for big, stately homes, a yacht club, and a few large estates. Bella Vista, Las Flores, and Playa Verde are located along the rambla west of downtown Piriápolis and only extend about three blocks in from the water. I’d call them more neighborhoods of extended Piriápolis than actual towns, but the complete services of Piriápolis lie only five minutes farther along the coast. • On the rambla in Bella Vista, there’s a 1,400-square-foot house with a stunning water and beach view. Built in 1991, it includes three bedrooms sharing a single bathroom, all finished with lots of nicely arched wood framed windows and doors. Price: $175,000. For more information, contact real estate agent Nieto; e-mail: [email protected]. Chapter Four: Finding Your Region and Your Home

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• In Las Flores, there’s a neat thatched roof cabana for sale, just a block from the beach. It has 1,345 square feet of living space on two floors, with three bedrooms sharing one bathroom. Outside there’s a fenced yard with a covered barbecue. Price: $130,000. For more details, contact Alberto Prandi; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. • Playa Hermosa lies just down-coast of (and within sight of) Piriápolis. The neighborhood is actually on a loop road that runs along the water— rather than the main coastal road—so it’s very quiet with almost no traffic. There’s a tempting property here, with 1,484 square feet of living space, on two floors. There are three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a guest house with two additional bedrooms sharing a bathroom. The house is a brick contemporary, with beautiful water views from both the house and guest house. Price: $212,000. For more details, contact Hogares & Campos; e-mail: [email protected].

Piriápolis—One of Uruguay’s oldest resorts Piriápolis claims to be Uruguay’s first seashore resort, founded by Don Francisco Piria in 1893, almost 15 years before the founding of Punta del Este. It lies about a half hour from Punta del Este (about an hour from Montevideo), and has long been popular with Uruguayans for its sandy beaches, calm waters, and attractive seafront. Somehow, Piriápolis never achieved the international glitter of Punta del Este, which is part of the charm that draws people here. It reminds me of an old fashioned New Jersey seashore town from the 1960s, with its old buildings, nicely kept waterfront boardwalk, and busy seafood restaurants. In the summertime Piriápolis is jammed to the seams, as vacationers come to enjoy the friendly ambiance, casinos, and of course the beaches. In the wintertime it’s deserted, which is to be expected at a resort. Piriápolis is also popular with boaters, as it is home to two marinas on a coastline that has relatively few places to moor a boat. Among North American expats, Piriápolis is a popular destination, where most have bought homes in town, and blended into the community.

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©Creative Commons/Pablo Castro G

Piriapolis still retains the feel of an old-fashioned 50s seaside resort, and fills to the brim with vacationers in the summertime

Property samples in Piriápolis Property prices in Piriápolis are higher than on the nearby Costa de Oro, yet less expensive than in Punta del Este. • In a quiet San Francisco neighborhood, just a couple of blocks from the beach, there’s a big, bright yellow quincho for sale. Sitting on a small wooded lot, it has 2,152 square feet of space, with five bedrooms and three bathrooms. Price: $180,000. Contact the listing real estate agent Inmobiliaria Miramar for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.miramar.com.uy. • Two blocks from the beach, there’s a new, brick duplex with 730 square feet of living space, including two bedrooms and two bathrooms. It is located in the Los Angeles neighborhood of Piriápolis. Price: $160,000. This is listed with Los Angeles Inmobiliaria. Contact them at; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.losangeles.inmobiliaria.com.uy.

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• If you’re not afraid of a little cosmetic work, there’s an apartment in a 1950s building in the center of town. Less than a block from the beach, it has 968 square feet, including three bedrooms and three bathrooms. The property also has secure parking for two cars Price: $110,000. Contact Gonzalez Propiedades; e-mail: Piriá[email protected]; website: www.gonzalezpropiedades.com.uy. • There’s a recently-finished condo project in Piriápolis called Cerro San Antonio, where each condo has a scenic waterfront view of the marina and adjacent bay. A two-bedroom, two-bathroom unit (936 square feet) there is listed right now with real estate agent Eleven (e-mail: [email protected]). Price: $155,000. A three-bedroom, two-bathroom unit is available (1,400 square feet) through Inmobiliaria Playa (e-mail: [email protected]). Price: $245,000. Punta Colorada is a point that juts out into the ocean just up the coast from Piriápolis as you go towards Punta del Este. I particularly like this area because a well-situated house can have a 270-degree view of an awesome section of coastline. It’s about five minutes from downtown Piriápolis. One IL reader wrote a while back to tell me about a great deal he got here. He picked up a roomy, thatched-roof home high on the hillside of Punta Colorada, where just about every room has a view of the water. The large deck offers a commanding sea view of almost 270 degrees, and he paid just $110,000, with a financing arrangement. I went to see the house, and he wasn’t exaggerating; it was everything he said it was, and more. • There’s a thatched-roof bargain, sitting at the top of the peninsula with a great water view. It’s a two-story house with 1,076 square feet and a single loft bedroom overlooking the living and kitchen area. Also included is a small guest house and barbecue. Built in 1990, it’s a solid building, but it needs some generous TLC to make it into a nice home. Price: $110,000. Contact Alda Propiedades for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.alda.com.uy. • There’s a lovely property for sale right now on Punta Colorada. Three of the four bedrooms in this house have water views and the terrace has a commanding water and coastline view, all the way to Punta del Este. This single-floor house has 2,905 square feet of living area, with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a full barbecue on the terrace. Price: $240,000. Get more information from Ojeda Propiedades; e-mail: [email protected].

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The nude beach at Playa Chihuahua Playa Chihuahua is the site of a beautiful stretch of wide sandy beach that’s over 1.5 miles long. It is one of the nicer beaches in Uruguay, but it is best known as one of Uruguay’s two “official” nude beaches. People of all ages—including families—come to enjoy it on all but the coldest of days. You can find it easily, as the government has it marked with a cheerful “Playa Naturista” sign. This place is a world landmark, at least among nudists. Real estate agent Antonio Mieres is a good source of nice properties in this area. Right now, he’s offering a couple of attractive ones. See www.antoniomieres.com.uy for further details. • An attractive two-story contemporary house, with four bedrooms on a quiet wooded lot and lots of big windows. It has a great wraparound deck surrounding most of the second floor and is located 150 yards from the beach. Price: $170,000. • A stunning white contemporary house, surrounded by beautifully landscaped grounds, sitting high among the dunes. The house has three airconditioned bedrooms, two-and-a-half bathrooms and an office that could serve as a fourth bedroom. Outside, there’s an elegant pool and terraces. Price: $440,000. • If you prefer to build your own getaway on Playa Chihuahua, Antonio has quarter acre lots for sale right now in the second row back from the water. Price: $80,000.

Portezuelo As you drive from Punta del Este toward Montevideo, there is no more impressive sight than that of Portezuelo as viewed from the hillcrest at Punta Ballena. The wide, sandy beach curves away into the distance for some 20 miles, edged by blue waters and green forest. And Portezuelo is not only the site of a famous beach, but also one of Uruguay’s hottest jazz clubs, Medio y Medio. I’ve always felt that real estate in this area (Punta Ballena-Portezuelo) was quite undervalued. But the beauty of the sector has caught on, and prices have appreciated quite nicely in the past three years. • On the waterfront in Portezuelo, there’s a beautiful quincho for sale, in impeccable condition. With 1,936 square feet of living area on two floors, including four bedrooms and two bathrooms, it is only 20 yards from the beach. Price: $350,000. Contact the listing agent L&M Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: [email protected].

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©Lee Harrison

This is the stunning view over Portezuelo from the hillcrest at Punta Ballena

• There’s a great quincho right now in Portezuelo. Less than a block from the water and with ocean views, this property has 2,690 square feet distributed between the two-floor main house and the combined guest and barbecue house. All together there are four bedrooms, four bathrooms, and two kitchens. Price: $350,000. Contact Portico Inmobiliaria for details; e-mail: [email protected]. This area has a vacation rental market, and you should be able to rent a property during the high season. You should expect to get around 6% if you have a waterfront or near-waterfront view property, and you’ll probably get it all in January and February. The rents here are lower than Punta del Este, but the property prices are lower as well. If you’d like to rent a property, houses in Piriápolis cost between $600 and $1,800 per low-season month, depending on size, location, and amenities. Noel and Gonzalez Inmobiliaria has most of them, but you’ll have to ask for prices and availability for each one that interests you. Keep in mind that the prices listed here are for low season months (April through November). These same houses can rent for as much as $9,000 in January alone. Check them out at http://noel.inmobiliaria.com.uy or www.gonzalezpropiedades.com.uy.

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Is the Piriápolis area for you?

Piriápolis and its property market don’t get the international traffic that you’ll find in Punta del Este, so it doesn’t have the same liquidity. Accordingly, resales can be slower. But this zone has a lot to offer. It’s near Punta del Este—with its restaurants, shows, and nightlife—but far enough away from it to carry a lower price-tag. Piriápolis itself has a feel that is homey and comfortable. For old-fashioned seaside living at good prices, Piriápolis is a good choice.

Have you noticed the rise in prices? We hit a low-point for beachfront prices back on the Costa de Oro, and you’ve probably noticed that the prices have been steadily climbing as we approach the Punta del Este market. In Punta del Este, you’ll find good prices too, but to get them you’ll be a couple of blocks away from the beach.

Punta del Este—South America’s number one seafront destination Cresting the hill at Punta Ballena, the sight of Punta del Este off in the distance still makes me stop and marvel at the scene. Even though I’ve lived here since 2006, I still stop to photograph this same stretch of beach now and then, thinking that it can’t have looked that impressive last time I came home this way. The wide, gentle shoreline, curving for miles off into the distance, paints a beautiful picture, with the sparkling white sand providing a sharp contrast to the clear, blue waters. Punta del Este is—by far—the number one destination in Uruguay. It’s first with international buyers, first with tourists, and first with investors. And with good reason. Simply put, Punta del Este—while more expensive—is where I believe you’ll get the highest quality of life for the money.

Why the Punta del Este market is so popular I have lots of statistical information on the Punta del Este market, and plenty of never-ending sales data. But there’s no need to be overcomplicated; there are really only a few key factors that make the Punta del Este market what it is.

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©Creative Commons/Roxana Brongo

Punta del Este is Uruguay’s number one tourist destination…with beaches being a major attraction

Intrinsic value: Punta del Este is a naturally beautiful place. Situated on a point jutting out into the ocean, its old (highrise-free) historic center and lighthouse mark the spot where Río de la Plata becomes the Atlantic Ocean. The beaches are wide, long, and beautiful, with calm waters on one side of the point and normal ocean waves on the other. The trees in many places come quite close to the beach. Lifestyle: Punta del Este offers a variety of lifestyles. The town itself is home to more fine-dining establishments than you’ll find anywhere, offering cuisine from all over the world—although the fresh-caught seafood is what brings most people to their tables. There are highrise casinos, big-time shows, and concerts. The shopping is world-class, with everything from small boutiques to modern shopping malls. Yet if you go just a half-mile away, you’ll find yourself in a quiet residential setting, with large lawns and beautiful homes that don’t need fences, perimeter walls, or bars on the windows. A bit further away and you can live in a rural, wooded setting, yet still be close to all the town has to offer.

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Infrastructure: The department of Maldonado puts a lot of money into keeping things nice in Punta del Este in order to keep the visitors coming back. Crews walk the beaches every morning at daybreak, raking the sand, emptying trash receptacles, and picking up any stray refuse. The roads and streets are clean and well kept, and even the shrubs growing wild on the dunes are trimmed every year. New wooden walkways traverse the dunes here and there for people who may have difficulty walking in the sand. Liquidity: People come by the hundreds of thousands to visit Punta del Este every year, and lots of them have an eye out for property. They are led by visitors from Argentina and Brazil, but also include large numbers from Europe and beyond. This huge amount of international traffic is not found anywhere else in Uruguay, and it results in thousands of properties being sold every year—just what you need if you’re concerned about resale. And luckily, the Punta del Este market is not dependent on the U.S. economy. Dollars: Properties in Punta del Este are priced in dollars, as they are throughout Uruguay. This is terrific on the international market, since dollars are valued fairly low right now. While it’s a “break-even” for the dollar-holder, it’s a huge bonus for those holding powerful currencies, which helps again with resale. But there is no “free lunch”…

Potential buyers need to decide whether or not this increased cost is worth the lifestyle and market that comes with Punta del Este.

©Flickr.com/Vince Alongi

These amenities come at a cost. Punta del Este has the highest dayto-day cost of living in Uruguay, and everything is somewhat more expensive than elsewhere. Taxes are higher, restaurants charge more, and even groceries can cost more than in Montevideo or the Interior.

Punta del Este’s lighthouse is one of its oldest original landmarks

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Punta del Este’s lay of the land You can save a lot of time finding your way around by just knowing a few basics about the area. Remember that the coast of Uruguay runs generally east and west rather than north and south, with Punta del Este lying about two hours east of Montevideo. At the Peninsula of Punta del Este, the coast turns and heads northeast to Brazil. Punta del Este is actually part of the city of Maldonado, which sits about five minutes inland. For many residents, Maldonado is where you go for many everyday items, since it’s a fair-sized city and offers a wide selection of goods and services at (relatively) non-tourist prices.

©Lee Harrison

The Punta del Este region is centered on the Peninsula (the original resort) and extends along the coast in both directions for seven miles or so. Playa Mansa is the beach that extends towards Montevideo, and Playa Brava heads off to the northeast. Between these two, the Brava side is favored by vacation homeowners and is perhaps more prestigious—while the Mansa side seems to have more yearround residents, who enjoy beautiful homes at lower prices.

A view of Punta Del Este from Playa Mansa

Technically, the tip of the Peninsula separates the Atlantic Ocean from Río de la Plata, although for all practical purposes, it all appears to be ocean when you’re looking from the shoreline. The road that runs along these beaches—like any waterfront road in Uruguay—is called the rambla, and it’s marked by bus stops called paradas. Normally when you’re given the location of a property, it will be in reference to the parada. (The numbers get higher as you get further from the Peninsula.) For

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example, one home I looked at was on Playa Brava, parada 10; another was on Playa Mansa, parada 33. Avenida Roosevelt runs north to Maldonado, and is also marked with paradas. The Punta del Este international airport lies about 15 miles west of town. This sounds nice in the tourist brochures, but it doesn’t service many destinations, and charges more for the few places it does. For maps of Punta del Este and the surrounding area, see www.vivapunta.com/en/contenido/vinculos/mapas/index.html.

The beach at Punta Del Este Here is some video footage of the beach and dunes at Punta del Este. Lee Harrison shot this at parada 23, about three kilometers from town. This is the beach where Lee lives and you can see Punta del Este in the distance. Click on the link to start the video: http://internationalliving.com/2010/07/beach-at-punta-del-este/. It will pay you to know these key areas:

The Peninsula is the heart of Punta del Este. Here you’ll find the exclusive shopping, the area’s best restaurants, casinos, hotels, and highrises. If you’re one who loves the city and wants to be in the center of all the action, then the Peninsula is where you want to be. There are nice apartments and homes here, both old and new, and both quiet and bustling. If I lived on the peninsula, I believe I’d be comfortable without a car. Located in the area of parada 33 on the Mansa side, Pinares is often described as the best area for those who are looking for more permanent living as opposed to owning a rental or vacation property. Yes, you can rent properties here, but the area is better known for its quiet streets, larger non-vacation homes, and lower property prices. Punta Ballena is the end of the Punta del Este area on the Mansa side. Its tasteful homes and quiet streets are well worth a look for the potential expat. What’s more, there’s a nice, three-circuit, 20-hole golf course, tennis club, fine lakeside restaurant, and resort located in the woods nearby at Club del Lago.

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Heading over to the Brava side in the area of parada 10, San Rafael is among the most desirable of the Punta del Este “suburbs”. It has a small commercial area consisting of about a block’s worth of stores, including a small grocery and a pharmacy.

Romantic hideaways In Uruguay’s exclusive seaside resort of Punta del Este, international visitors often come to stay in luxurious seaside mansions, posh casinos, or gleaming condos. But less than two miles outside of town, you’ll find what may be the mostromantic hideaway on the Uruguayan coast; Hotel L’Auberge. L’Auberge is a Tudor-style country hotel, set in a tranquil area surrounded by towering pines. A quiet beach is just a few blocks away. Adorned with antiques and works of art, it’s a charming mix of the English-manor style, blended with French pastels in the style of Provence. All rooms are luxurious, and you can enjoy views of its lush garden and glistening pool… or even stay at the top of its landmark tower, overlooking the woods and ocean. Some rooms have Jacuzzis and some have fireplaces… while all offer a coziness and warmth that makes L’Auberge memorable. Aside from its signature tower, L’Auberge is well-known for its tea salon on the garden. The afternoon tea is always a hit with guests…but it’s also a long-standing tradition with local residents, who particularly enjoy the freshbaked waffles and thick hot chocolate on a winter afternoon. You’ll find L’Auberge on Playa Brava, in Barrio Club de Golf. See their website at www.laubergehotel.com.

Rincon del Indio is my favorite sector in the area, starting at parada 23 and ending at the river Arroyo Maldonado, and is the last of the Punta del Este neighborhoods before you hit La Barra. It still has several large tracts of undeveloped wooded land. Most of the homes are on treed lots, and the area maintains a rural feel all its own. The beaches here are separated from the rambla by tall, rolling dunes, and most of the year they’re deserted. From the waterline you can see the highrises of the Peninsula—only a few minutes away—off in the distance.

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La Barra marks the end of the region on the northeastern side. It’s not a neighborhood of Punta del Este, but rather an independent small seaside town. While La Barra is a picturesque, quiet village in the off season, it’s one of the busiest and most chic areas to be in the high season. The restaurants in La Barra are great, with everything from northern Italian to parrillada to sushi.

A few tips about buying properties in Punta del Este • Houses in Punta del Este use names rather than conventional addresses. If you don’t make note of the name of a house you want to see, the real estate agent will have difficulty finding it. The house’s name is normally on a small sign in the front yard. • Most properties come furnished and ready to move into. When you’re ready to make an offer, take lots of photos to make sure no substitutions are made before closing unless you’ve agreed to them. • Remember that this is a resort, and it’s pretty quiet in the off season (April through November), with many businesses closed. I happen to love it when the tourists go home, but it may be too tame for some.

Think Punta del Este is too expensive? Check this out Punta del Este has a lot of million-dollar properties: I’ve seen oceanfront apartments going for as high as $7.5 million. In fact, right now there are 113 properties listed for sale in Punta del Este for the asking price of $1,000,000 or more (up 23% over last year). But it also has lots of reasonably priced properties near the water. Let’s take a look at a couple of statistics from mid-December, 2011. First here are some ocean-view properties for sale, found on a single website: • Under $150,000: 26 properties (3 houses and 23 apartments) • Under $200,000: 67 properties (10 houses and 57 apartments) • Under $250,000: 127 properties (17 houses and 110 apartments)

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Now if you’d like a wider selection and lower prices, do what I did: look a couple of blocks inland. At 200 to 300 yards away, you can still hear the roar of the waves and easily walk to the beach. These properties are less than 200 yards from the ocean: • Under $150,000: 70 properties (10 houses, 60 apartments) • Under $200,000: 126 properties (26 houses, 100 apartments) • Under $250,000: 194 properties (38 houses and 156 apartments) I even found a modest selection (18 properties) listed for less than $100,000. As you can see, there is plenty of inventory at good prices. It’s not as inexpensive as Atlántida or Piriápolis, but Punta del Este is quite a different animal.

Punta del Este property examples Punta Ballena (“whale point”) is what I consider to be the beginning of Punta del Este as you approach it from Montevideo. Jutting out into the ocean, it offers commanding views of miles of coastline in both directions, including the open sea. Punta Ballena is a great place for whale-watching, as the name implies.

©Lee Harrison

• My favorite “find” here is a tidy brick bungalow with lots of wide windows overlooking expansive, park-like grounds near the lake Laguna del Sauce. The house has 1,194 square feet of living space, including three bedrooms, one-and-a-half bathrooms, and a living area with fireplace all covered by traditional beam and brick ceilings. Price: $200,000. Contact Agua Clara Propiedades; e-mail: [email protected].

This thatched-roof house near Laguna del Sauce is typical of many homes in the area

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Continuing on towards the Punta del Este Peninsula, I looked at a number of houses in the shady neighborhood of Pinares, named for the old pine forest that covers most of the area. • There’s a contemporary house in Pinares, less than 200 yards from the water. The 1,130-square-foot floor plan is efficient, with two bedrooms and one-and-a-half bathrooms, and living and dining areas, all with gleaming wood floors and layered stone walls. Wall-to-wall living room windows look out onto the deck, yard, and swimming pool. Of course, there’s the ever present covered barbecue and a one-car garage. Price $200,000. Contact Voilá Inmobiliaria for details; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy.

What’s a “half bedroom”? I think that Punta del Este is the only place I’ve heard the term “three-and-a-half bedrooms”. And it’s a good thing someone pointed it out, because that “half bedroom” is pretty easy to miss. Typically, it’s a small space adjacent to a living area; sometimes having a rollaway partition to separate it, and sometimes not. The term implies that one could use it for guest sleeping, which of course you can…but don’t expect an extra bedroom, as they’re very small.

• There’s another home 100 yards from the water that has a sea view from the second-floor terrace. The house is a big one, with 2,690 square feet, four bedrooms, three bathrooms and a maid’s quarters. The landscaped yard is a quarter acre and includes the traditional covered patio with barbecue. This house has plenty of light thanks to lots of good sized windows. Minor repair work is needed. Price: $250,000. Iavecchia Propiedades can provide more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://iavecchia.com. • A waterfront apartment in Pinares with two-bedrooms and two-bathrooms in 750 square feet of living area. The living area and terrace have an endless ocean view and building amenities include swimming pool, game room, covered parking, and gym. Price: $200,000. This furnished property is also listed with Iavecchia Propiedades; website: http://iavecchia.com. Avenida Gorlero is the main artery and the epicenter of the Punta del Este Peninsula. It’s the throbbing heart of the shopping district, the historic Carnaval route and the perfect area for a favorite Punta del Este pastime: people-watching.

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• On the sixth floor of one of its buildings, there’s a 968-square-foot apartment, with nice ocean views from the balcony, two bedrooms, and two bathrooms in the best location off the water in Punta del Este. Price: $183,700. Contact Buen Ayre Inmobiliaria for details; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.buenayre.com.uy. • Another peninsula apartment is a 1970-vintage penthouse. It has just under 1,400 square feet of living space, with four bedrooms, three bathrooms, and views of the ocean and the peninsula from its third floor location. It comes with garage parking. Price: $220,000. For more information, contact Iavecchia Propiedades; website: http://iavecchia.com. Punta del Este’s famous port and yacht club are the focus of the most sought after neighborhood of the peninsula. All year round, visitors and residents alike stroll the boardwalks and linger at the many waterfront restaurants, peoplewatching and admiring the view of the nearby island Isla Gorriti. • There’s an apartment in a convenient location, just one block from Punta’s famous yacht club and my favorite restaurant district in town. It has nice peninsula views from the roomy terrace and 860 square feet of living area, with three bedrooms and one bathroom. It is being sold furnished and comes with garage parking. Price: $210,000. Contact Voila Inmobiliaria at; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. Heading up the east side of the Peninsula, you’ll come to Playa Brava and all of its ocean-like characteristics, such as dunes, bigger waves, wider beaches, and finer sand. • Here there’s an excellent value apartment on the second floor overlooking the beach at parada 6. It has 839 square feet of space, including two bedrooms and a single bathroom, with covered parking and furniture included. Price: $187,000. As a rental, it brings in as much as $16,000 in the high season alone. Contact Voila Inmobiliaria for details; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. • At around 200 yards back, but still with a good ocean view, there’s an apartment with two bedrooms and one-and-a-half bathrooms in 1,043 square feet. Completed in 2011, the building amenities include swimming pool and gym. Price: $197,400. For further details, contact Abasolo Inmobiliaria: e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.abasolo.com.uy. Next, continuing up the Brava side rambla, is the charming San Rafael neighborhood. The streets are quite shady and tranquil here, and homes are overwhelmingly quaint and well-tended. I selected two among the good number of properties for sale under $200,000.

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• Near the heart of San Rafael, there’s a 1970-vintage, nicely maintained, 1,400-square-foot house with three bedrooms, three bathrooms, and a maid’s quarters. It is being offered furnished. Price: $130,000. For more information, contact Alberto Prandi; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.albertoprandi.com. • In a quiet, wooded area in San Rafael, there’s a neat 560 square foot apartment with two bedrooms and two bathrooms. This second-floor apartment is an easy walk down the street to the Brava beaches. There’s also air conditioning and the building is equipped with Wi-Fi. Price: $160,000. It’s being offered by Gerone’s Inmobiliaria; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.geronesinmobiliaria.com.uy. Rincon del Indio

• Moving along the rambla a little further north to Rincon del Indio, is an apartment with two bedrooms and two bathrooms, nicely located less than 100 yards from the ocean. It has 860 square feet of living area and garage space for one car. Price: $295,000. Contact Puntamar Inmobiliaria for further information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.puntamar.com. • Less than 200 yards in from the ocean, there’s a three-bedroom, threebathroom house in like-new condition. There’s also a barbecue and Jacuzzi in the yard and a double carport. Price: $200,000. Contact Inmobiliaria Rincon del Indio for more details; e-mail: [email protected].

• Also in Rincon del Indio there’s a sturdy brick house for sale, overlooking beautifully landscaped grounds. Built in 1990, the house has 1,614 square feet of living space, including three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and an extra spacious living area. Price: $280,000. Alberto Prandi lists this property; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/.

Continuing up the coast to the northeast, the next area is La Barra.

• A nice, two-story brick house is on offer in the Las Palmas area of La Barra. Built in 1995, it has a comfortable 1,076 square feet living space, with three bedrooms and two bathrooms, while in the back yard, there’s a guest house with another bedroom and bathroom. Price: $140,000. For further information, contact Alberto Prandi; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ ContactUs/prandi/.

• An inviting property in La Barra, less than 200 yards from the ocean and conveniently located on route 10, which is the coastal road there. It has just under 1,400 square feet of living space on a single floor, with three bedrooms, three bathrooms, and good quality finishing details throughout. Price: $150,000. Contact Abasolo Inmobiliaria for details: e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.abasolo.com.uy.

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Come to Maldonado for a taste of “real” life near Punta del Este Technically speaking, Punta del Este is part of the city of Maldonado, and the town centers are only about 10 minutes apart. Maldonado—with its 39,000 residents—is what I’d call a real town, as opposed to a resort town. Lots of people are bustling about the streets, going about their business among the endless assortment of shops, supermarkets, and stores of every type. There’s a nice downtown square and the brick buildings reminded me of 1950s Americana to the point where I expected to see a Woolworth’s peeking from beneath one of the awnings. If you’d like to be just minutes from the world-class beaches of Punta del Este, but don’t want to live in the resort, Maldonado may be the place for you. Montoya and Manantiales are two upscale suburbs that lie just north of La Barra. These areas host a number of exclusive, planned communities filled with luxury homes, popular with well-off second homeowners from Montevideo and abroad. I found a house here renting for $25,000 per month in the high season. It’s still possible, however, to find some pretty nice homes for reasonable prices. Here are a few that are priced well below the area average. • There’s a three-bedroom apartment for sale, furnished, just 50 yards from Playa Montoya. It’s an 850-square-foot property with two bathrooms and covered parking; not to mention the wonderful ocean and beach views that it enjoys from the terrace. Price: $135,000. More details are available from Puntamar Inmobiliaria; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.puntamar.com. • In Montoya there’s a contemporary-style house with 1,076 square feet of floor space, including three bedrooms, two bathrooms, an alarm system, and a carport. This property is in a quiet, wooded location three blocks from Montoya beach. Price: $200,000. Contact Puntamar Inmobiliaria for further information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.puntamar.com. • Enjoy the lovely sight of the ocean as seen through the trees from the terrace of a home in Manantiales. This tempting two-story, has 1,398 square feet of living space, including three bedrooms, two bathrooms, granite counters, air conditioning, and an alarm system. Price: $225,000. For more information, contact Sudamerica Propiedades; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.sudamerica.com.uy.

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Just for an idea of how much land is going for in this area, I found several parcels for sale in prestigious Montoya/Manantiales. For example, a half-acre lot is listed for $220,000 and a small building lot (one-eighth of an acre) a block from the beach is $180,000. As you continue eastward towards José Ignacio, there are some oceanfront neighborhoods where your dollar buys quite a bit. Buenos Aires, Punta Piedras, and El Chorro are newer areas that haven’t yet filled in. The early-in houses there run a bit smaller but enjoy lots of tranquility, many with unobstructed ocean views. Right now there are 10 houses for sale listed for $200,000 or less. • In the neighborhood of Buenos Aires, there’s a 1,300-square-foot bargain. Built in 1999, it has two stories, two bedrooms, and two bathrooms. It comes furnished. Price: $110,000. Contact Voila Inmobiliaria for further details; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. • An attractive, contemporary two-story home in Buenos Aires has 1,560 square feet of living space with three bedrooms and three bathrooms. This property is less than 100 yards from the ocean and comes nicely furnished. Price: $160,000. Contact Voila Inmobiliaria for information; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy.

Punta del Este rentals This area has a brisk vacation rental market, so you should be able to rent out your property during the high season (December to March). You should expect to get around 6% to 8% if you have a waterfront or near-waterfront view property, and you’ll probably get most of it in January and February. Good sized houses within walking distance of the beaches here can bring in up to $25,000 for January alone. If you’d like to rent a property, apartments in Punta del Este rent for between $600 and $3,000 per month on an annual lease, depending on size and location. Houses in Punta del Este rent for between $800 and $5,000 per month on an annual lease, depending on size, location, and amenities. Buscandocasa.com has a pretty good inventory of them under “Alquileres Anuales”. Keep in mind that the prices included here are for a year’s lease, which includes both the high and low season months. If you are interested in renting a house for only a few low season months (April to November) you will be able to negotiate something much more economical. Check them out at www.buscandocasa.com.

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Is Punta del Este for you?

No place suits everyone, but Punta del Este has a pretty broad appeal. If you don’t like the crowds, all you have to do is live a short distance from downtown and you can avoid them. Parts of the zone fall within Maldonado, and accordingly have lower tax rates. If you want to rent your house in the summer, you’ll get some decent rental returns. If not, you’ll enjoy using your very own Punta del Este home while the rest of the world comes to visit. I had originally planned on renting out my own house in Punta del Este. But after spending a summer here, I wouldn’t think of it. If the “world’s wealthy” are willing to come here and pay those extraordinary rents to enjoy Punta del Este, then I plan to stay right here and enjoy the place with them.

Rocha—Home to Uruguay’s best beaches The department of Rocha is where you come to find Uruguay’s last, vast stretches of undeveloped beaches. The ocean here is clear and blue, the sand white, and the beach relatively deserted. Between José Ignacio and Brazil—with a few notable exceptions—you’ll find little development. But the area feels much more remote than it really is; the highway is not far away, and you’re still within three hours of the international airport in Montevideo. True beachfront land is rare in Uruguay, and there are few places where you can build adjacent to the water. But in Rocha, you’ll find more land like this than anywhere else.

José Ignacio This is a small, exclusive fishing village about 20 minutes north of Punta del Este, just shy of the department of Rocha. And by “exclusive”, I mean more exclusive than Punta del Este, at least as a residential venue. José Ignacio has more than its share of nice restaurants, a picturesque lighthouse, and a boatyard. The shoreline varies from rock to sandy, and the beaches are wide and fairly uncrowded. The water here is usually a deep blue, without influence from the brown runoff that can come from Río de la Plata. As to how it got to be exclusive, I don’t know. For some reason, rock star Shakira decided to live here—as did several other stars and famous people—and my guess is that that’s what made it prominent. Although it’s nice, on the surface it doesn’t appear to be worth a premium to live or vacation here. But you will pay a premium. A friend of mine paid $400 for lunch one day at an upscale restaurant…for two people.

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©Creative Commons/Joao Vicente

The shoreline around the exclusive area of José Ignacio is a mix of rocky and sandy with wide beaches

Property samples in José Ignacio I found three homes for sale in the beach towns of La Juanita and Santa Monica in this area.

• Just south of José Ignacio—on the road to Punta del Este—there’s a tranquil wooded area with a gated community called La Boyita, where there’s an attractive contemporary house. It has 1,291 square feet of living area on a single floor, with one suite, endless floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking nearly 1,400 square feet of covered terraces, and a small lake. The house also includes a wine cellar and a well. Price: $210,000. Get more information from Alejandro Perazzo; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com. • A small, but attractive house for sale in La Juanita, with three bedrooms and two bathrooms nicely arranged in the 650 square feet of floor space. There’s a covered patio with a barbecue out back and nice ocean views from the terrace. Price: $250,000. This is also listed with Alejandro Perazzo; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com.

• Near Flamingo Lake, near Santa Monica there’s a bright yellow, two-story, with loads of windows to brighten up the 1,291 square feet of living area. There are two big bedrooms sharing a spacious single bathroom. Terraces were built off of the living areas on both floors to take advantage of the nice lake views. Price: $140,000. Contact Inmobiliaria Club del Mar for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.clubdelmar.com.uy. Chapter Four: Finding Your Region and Your Home

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Right on the outskirts of José Ignacio is a new development called Arenas de José Ignacio (Sands of José Ignacio). The homes are new and contemporary in design, many with ocean views, within a couple of minutes walk to the ocean. Prices for home resales here range from $130,000 for a single-suite home to $620,000 for a larger three-bedroom house with pool.

• In Arenas de José Ignacio there’s a cool white contemporary house, nestled in the dunes and pines, with three bedrooms and a pool in back. It is close to a good beach and equipped for year-round living. It sits on a naturally beautiful lot and enjoys ocean views from the second-floor living and kitchen area. Price: $330,000. Contact Alejandro Perazzo Inmobiliaria for details: e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com.

• If you can afford the prestige of owning in the village of José Ignacio, and living a five-minute walk from the best beaches, there’s a small two-bedroom, one-bathroom house, with an attached garage for sale. Price: $690,000. This is also listed with Alejandro Perazzo; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com. • There are several developments going on near here, some of them very expensive. One is Pinar del Faro, which is selling quarter-acre, ocean-view lots between $180,000 and $200,000, depending on their location. For more information, contact them at: e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.pinardelfaro.com.

Laguna Garzón is an estuary that comes to the ocean just north of José Ignacio. To cross, you’ll need to take the free car ferry. It’s capable of taking two cars at a time if they’re small. This area has the nicest beachfront land you’ll find in the Lee’s car on the car ferry across Laguna Garzón country. As you can see, the farther away you get from José Ignacio, the cheaper the pure beachfront gets.

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©Lee Harrison

• Nearby, with frontage on Laguna de los Flamencos Rosados (Lake of the Pink Flamingos) and ocean views in the opposite direction as well, there are parcels of land for sale of 12,697 square feet (.29 acres). Price: $130,000. It’s listed with Uruguay Properties; e-mail: [email protected].

La Paloma Traveling up the coast, I consider La Paloma to be the last seaside town equipped to support a tourist trade of any size. Lying 52 miles from Punta del Este on Bahía Grande, this beachfront town of about 5,000 was a small, charming outpost when I first went there, but recently it has come into its own. The first low-rise condos have arrived, and the tourist infrastructure is growing. The beaches here are as nice as those in Punta del Este. In fact, the beaches outside of town are wider, less developed, and less crowded. It’s not yet a big tourist destination, but the town has always had quite a number of vacation homes. La Paloma itself is a small town, with a few hotels, markets, and a number of shops selling everything from cell phones to souvenirs. There are several nice restaurants providing diverse menu offerings.

©Lee Harrison

La Paloma is also the last outpost in which you’ll find an organized real estate business as you head up the coast, with a dozen or more real estate agents plying their trade downtown. This is a typical seashore vacation market, with plenty of houses for sale in various price ranges. The prices here are noticeably less than those you’ll find in Punta del Este, which makes sense when you compare the level of sophistication Punta del Este has with respect to La Paloma.

La Paloma is a bustling place in the summer, but it tends to be a lot quieter in the wintertime.

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One of Uruguay’s oldest port cities La Paloma is one of the oldest settlements in the region, because it was actually a port city many years before anyone was thinking of seaside resorts in the area. The first registered arrival was on January 9, 1520, when a Portuguese vessel anchored overnight while looking for a passage to the Pacific. It wasn’t until 1874 that local officials decided to position La Paloma as a beach resort…or balneario as they are called in Uruguay. The first tourists arrived in the 1890s. Accommodations in those years were sparse, as the only public place to stay was in the guest quarters of the lighthouse. The early wealthy tourists from Montevideo came by sailing ship; since there were no roads, and the railroad was still years away.

This would be a lonely place to spend the winter, as it closes up pretty tight. I found enough stores and restaurants open to stay there a while, but if you never left town, it would seem like a long winter. It would be a great town for a vacation home or part-year residence. But for many, La Paloma will be just what they’re looking for. The beaches are great, and there’s enough to keep most of us busy in the summer. You won’t have the huge summertime crowds, but it’s lively, warm, and cheery in the high season. The prices of single homes in the area have been on the rise, but are still quite reasonable.

Property samples in La Paloma Puntorio Propiedades can show you the following properties in La Paloma. They always have a good inventory and friendly agents to assist you. They have English speakers ready to help, as well. You can contact them at; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.PuntoRio.com. • In the center of town within walking distance of all commercial services, there’s a two-story house with four bedrooms and three bathrooms. Of course, there’s also a covered patio with barbecue in back as well and a nice second-floor balcony for the upstairs bedrooms. Price: $130,000.

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• In the Playa Serena area, in which a new golf course is being built, there’s a contemporary brick home located in a quiet treed area four blocks back from the beach. It has 1,291 square feet of living area, including three bedrooms and two bathrooms. The barbecue area in back looks out onto the park-like woods surrounding it. Price: $150,000. • In the center of La Paloma on the main avenue, little more than a block from the beach there’s an attractive three-bedroom house on offer. It’s a 2,100-square-foot house with two bathrooms, and nicely landscaped and spacious grounds, with a guest or caretaker house in the back. Price: $150,000. • A very nice property on offer right now in La Paloma is also in the Balconada neighborhood. It’s a sprawling two-story with four bedrooms, three bathrooms and over 2,900 square feet of living area. It has cathedral ceilings, a terrace with ocean views, and lots of hardwood trim finishing. Price: $330,000. Another good source of inventory here is Alberto Prandi, a fluent English speaker, who is also a fascinating source of interesting information about the La Paloma and La Pedrera areas. He has a number of properties worth investigating, both land and houses. Here is a small sample. Contact him at; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. • Between La Paloma and La Pedrera, is a house for sale with three bedrooms, two bathrooms and 1,420 square feet of living space on two floors. This property is less than 100 yards from the ocean. Price: $140,000. • Sitting directly on the sand in the La Balconada neighborhood, is a contemporary style house for sale. It has two stories, 1,291 square feet with three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a one-car garage. Price: $300,000.

Rentals near La Paloma Inmobiliaria Puntorio (contact details above) can also help with rentals, any time of year. The choices are greatly reduced for annual leases, but short-term rentals are available. A good house, with two or three bedrooms will go for $600 to $700 per month on a long-term lease. A contract for a few months in the low season can be negotiated for less.

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La Pedrera La Pedrera lies just a few miles up the coast from La Paloma. It’s also is a charming town, and even though it’s smaller than La Paloma, it has its share of nice restaurants and an attractive beach. Unlike La Paloma, La Pedrera also has some high, rocky cliffs that provide amazing ocean views. What’s more, La Pedrera itself sits on a hill, so even houses that are set back from the water have a good view. La Pedrera had more of a Spanish colonial feel to it than is normal in Uruguay, which makes a nice change. I’d call it a smaller, upscale version of La Paloma, with higher prices. But you can find bargains here, if you look.

Property samples in La Pedrera • Less than 200 yards from Playa del Barco (boat beach) is a cozy little two-bedroom, one-bathroom cabin for sale. It has only 753 square feet of space on two floors, yet the current high season rent is over $20,000. Price: $160,000. Contact Voilá Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. • Near La Pedrera is an attractive 1,452-square-foot “cabin” in the woods, four-and-a-half blocks from the beach, with three bedrooms and two bathrooms. The property is a picturesque two-story quincho with a roomy second-floor balcony overlooking the park-like wooded grounds. Price: $128,000. For further information, contact Puntorio Propiedades; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.PuntoRio.com. In addition, a number of developers have recognized the potential of this area. One of the first developments in the area was Tajamares de La Pedrera, which is about 2.5 miles outside the town of La Pedrera. Tajamar means pond in Uruguay and there are plenty of them in this part of Rocha. The property is almost 200 acres—on the ocean—94 of which are reserved for green space. • There’s a resale home listed here…a clean, new, contemporary house, with two floors and a large rooftop terrace. Equipped with many modern conveniences, such as a turbo heater built into the fireplace, radiating floor heat and multiple water heaters, the house has three bedrooms and two bathrooms in 1,500 square feet of floor space. The swimming pool is equipped with hydro-massage jets and the grounds are an acreand-a-quarter. Price: $270,000. This property is available from Puntorio Propiedades; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.PuntoRio.com.

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• Another property available in Tajamares is an attractive contemporary house, sitting on an acre of land which includes a picturesque pond. The three-bedroom, two-bathroom house has 1,721 square feet of space on one floor. This property also has a swimming pool. Price $220,000. Contact Alberto Prandi for more information; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ ContactUs/prandi. Tajamares was the first Rocha development by noted Argentine developer Daniel Oks. When I first saw it, it was a first-of-a-kind venture in a new area. Today, it’s the subject of a glossy coffee table book featuring the best homes designed by Argentina’s top architects. Daniel Oks’ latest offering is La Serena Golf, just a few minutes from La Paloma. The project slopes gently down to the beautiful white-sand La Serena beach and the ocean beyond. It’s about 500 yards from Laguna de Rocha, a lake and wetlands preserve that’s home to otters, foxes, and all kinds of birds. The beaches here are typical to Rocha; beautiful and free of crowds. The landscape around La Serena Golf is pastoral, a patchwork of grassy meadows, small farms, and pine forests. Spread over 225 acres, La Serena’s 179 lots vary from a half-acre to three-quarters of an acre in size. Many of the lots have ocean views. More than 50% of the land in the development will stay as green space. Seven lakes dot the project, giving the property a relaxed country feel. Amenities will include a nine-hole golf course, a putting green and tennis courts. But despite the amenities, lots in La Serena start from $31,900. That gets you 2,120 square meters (a half-acre). If you want sea views, you’ll pay a little more: $69,300 buys you a three-quarter acre lot with panoramic ocean views. You don’t have a build requirement, so you can sit on your lot as long as you like, and only start to construct a home when you’re ready. Go here to find out more: www.pathfinderinternational.net/laserena. The reason I find La Paloma and La Pedrera (and their surrounding area) particularly attractive is that this area is among the last places on the coast where you can find international resort properties at reasonable prices. Also, there’s a potential expanding market with Brazilians, who pass by this area on the way to Punta del Este. I think the area will grow in popularity as prices continue to climb in Punta del Este.

Barra de Valizas With its small seaside cottages and dunes that roll out to the water’s edge, this little waterfront village—located about 2.5 miles from the coastal highway— offers a nice, uncrowded beach and one of the best “on the sand” beachfront

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restaurants/bars you’ll find on the coast. Barra de Valizas has the feel of a surfer village, with its small, simple homes and young crowd.

©Lee Harrison

There are several pleasant seaside villages in this area, which are well outside the development growth that’s working its way up from Punta del Este. If you’re looking for a beach town with virtually no glitz and little tourist infrastructure, this is a good area to check out.

Barra de Valizas is a small beach town with a surf vibe and a young crowd

The nearby zone called Punta del Diablo is one of the most popular destinations in this area.

Property samples in Barra de Valizas • A neat, ocean-view house for sale in Punta del Diablo, in impeccable condition. It’s a two-story cubist cabin, with 1,076 square feet of living space which includes two bedrooms, one bathroom, and a living/dining area with fireplace. Price: $105,000. The 5,380 square foot lot next door is available to buy for an extra $35,000. Contact Bottero Propiedades for more information; e-mail: [email protected].

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• A house on a quarter-acre, ocean view lot with four bedrooms and two bathrooms in 1,721 square feet of living area. The property includes a garage and carport, and is in move-in condition. Price: $250,000. Contact Voilá Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. • A new, glass and stone contemporary house for sale in Punta del Diablo. It’s located 100 yards from the beach and enjoys beautiful sea views from the large terrace. The 1,829 square feet of living area includes three bedrooms and three bathrooms on two floors. Price: $380,000. Contact Uruguay Properties.com for further details; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.uruguayproperties.com.uy.

Aguas Dulces This is a small beach town not unlike Barra de Valizas, although it is bigger and nicer. I noted a few restaurants, markets, and a fish market selling fresh seafood. But the main reason I mention Aguas Dulces is for those of you who bought this book to find out where the nude beaches were! This is the site of the second “official” nude beach I found. I didn’t go on it, but there were a lot of cars in the lot for a town this size, and the parking lot attendant felt he had the best job on the north coast.

Barra de Chuy This is the end of the line here on the coast: the border with Brazil. The town of Barra de Chuy is the part on the Uruguayan side, while Barra do Chuí is on the Brazilian side of the river that divides them. I didn’t really care for the Uruguayan side, but the Brazilian side was quite nice, with solid homes, clean streets, and wide beaches.

The Uruguayan Interior Apartments starting at $45,000, affordable restaurants, low taxes, honest people, and safe, sycamore-lined streets. That’s what you’ll find when you leave the beaches and venture into Uruguay’s Interior. Gone are the jet-set crowds, the highrises, and the hot investment property markets. But in their place you’ll find a wholesome lifestyle, low cost of living, and a side of Uruguay that’s the polar opposite to the famous seaside resorts.

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In the lexicon of Uruguay, the “Interior” is everything outside of Montevideo. But for the purpose of discussing lifestyle and property choices, I prefer to exclude the Atlantic coastal areas as well, since the actual interior—or inland part of the country—has a culture and real estate market that’s completely distinct. Here you’ll find lots of wide, open spaces used for livestock, agriculture, and timber farming, and the cities have the simple, wholesome feel of farming communities in the American Midwest.

Count on a First-World infrastructure The tap water in Uruguay is drinkable throughout the country, and standards for food preparation and handling are high. A network of fast, well-maintained highways will get you around Uruguay easily, and utilities are reliable, even in the more remote parts of the Interior And now, every Uruguayan town square even boasts free Wi-Fi.

Without the moderating effect of the ocean, expect warmer summer temperatures reaching into the 90s (over 35° C). Winters are mild and without freezing weather or snow. While you’ll see tourist traffic and foreign travelers in certain parts of the Interior, there are few expats or foreign property buyers fueling the real estate market. So you can’t count on Punta del Este-style rental returns or liquidity. In the Interior, you’ll buy and sell on the local market, which is perfect if you’re looking for a good lifestyle buy.

Chuy The town of Chuy is about 10 miles inland from Barra de Chuy, which is on the coast. It’s a wild frontier town with the international border running right down the middle of the main street. On weekends, this is a popular destination for Uruguayans and Brazilians alike, who come to enjoy the many parrilladas and duty-free stores that line its busy main drag. With the crowds of people, cars racing up and down the dusty street, stands of pirate CDs, and bootleg cigarettes, this is one of the most bustling places of its size you’ll see in Uruguay. Would an expat want to settle in Chuy? I can’t imagine why. But it sure makes for an interesting stop while you’re touring the country.

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The duty-free stores of Chuy Chuy’s duty-free shops can save you a significant amount of money since they don’t charge any taxes…that’s a 22% savings right off the top. But as a resident of Uruguay, you’re really not eligible for tax-free shopping. It works just like the duty-free stores at the airport; which means that the duty free items are only ‘duty-free’ outside the country you bought them in. As a foreign resident in Uruguay though, you can get around this by carrying your passport when you travel to Chuy. Then when you pass Customs on the way home, just show your foreign passport instead of your Uruguayan ID card, and you can pass without paying any taxes.

Treinta y Tres The gaucho town of Treinta y Tres can feel like the end of the world. I often joke that if I were hiding from a huge lawsuit or a whopping divorce settlement, this is where I’d come. I recently returned to Treinta y Tres via a 90-minute drive from the coast on a brilliant, sunny day. After all of my Uruguayan travel over the last two years, I still find the lush, shady town square here to be the nicest in Uruguay. Its quiet sycamore-lined streets are clean and orderly. This town of 30,000 residents is self-sufficient, with all of the shops, markets, and facilities you’d need to set up residence. There seem to be more butcher shops (carnicerías) per capita here than anywhere I’ve seen; at least one on every block. There is not a lively exchange of real estate here, just the normal buying and selling you’d expect in a place that’s not a tourist spot or big city. But the lack of tourist traffic makes for very reasonable prices. • A small apartment for sale by owner downtown, with two bedrooms sharing a single bathroom. The apartment has 570 square feet of living area, with some nice finishings, like granite kitchen counters and a wood paneled wall in the living area. Price: $45,000. Contact the owner at; tel. +598 (99) 516-769. Inmobiliaria Mundo has some interesting listings in Treinta y Tres. Contact them at; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmobiliariamundo.com.uy.

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©Lee Harrison

With its quiet, sycamore-lined streets and 30,000 residents, Trienta y Tres is the place to come if you want to get away from it all

• At Manuel Duran in Barrio Sosa, there’s a small two-bedroom house for sale with a large kitchen, a dining area with a fireplace, a garage for two cars and a small fenced yard. Price: $45,000. • In front of Plaza de Vergara, there’s a nice colonial style house or casa antigua for sale. It’s a corner house, which allows for twice the amount of windows on a house of this style. The property covers 1,200 square feet with the living/dining area, kitchen and bathroom on the first floor. Upstairs, there are bedrooms, a large terrace, and a storage area. Price $75,000. • If you like the old Spanish colonial style, here’s a wonderful opportunity to buy and restore a nice one in the historic district. It’s a two-story, with a large front garden, eight bedrooms, and more than 2,636 square feet of floor space. Price $180,000. Elsewhere in town, expect to pay at least $45,000 for a “fixer-upper”, and around $85,000 for a livable home of around 1,000 square feet.

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The famous 33 Treinta y Tres (which means 33 in Spanish) was named in honor of 33 heroes who, under the leadership of Juan Antonio Lavalleja, began the insurrection that ultimately led to independence from Brazil. They left Argentina in two boats from the town of San Isidro, just upriver from Buenos Aires. They managed to avoid the Brazilian fleet guarding the coast, and on April 19, 1825, landed on the Uruguayan side at a beach known as Playa de la Agraciada (also known as Arenal Grande) in the Department of Soriano, where they planted the Uruguayan flag. You’ll see many references to the number 33 throughout Uruguay, with numerous monuments, parks, and streets bearing the number. The names of the “33 orientales” are inscribed on a monument erected in their honor in the Treinta y Tres town square.

Villa Serrana for a hilly vacation getaway This is not an actual town, but a small settlement tucked into the “mountains” of Uruguay about 14 miles from the city of Minas. Founded in 1945 by the famous architect Julio Vilamajó as a European-style retreat, it remains a getaway spot for many Uruguayans today. The hills here are less than 1,000 feet, but offer a commanding view of the surrounding area. Some people enjoy day trips to Villa Serrana, while others maintain homes among the hills and valleys. They enjoy a relaxing ambiance and occupy their time with hiking, horseback riding, or fishing in the small lake. A store, restaurants, and hotel are part of the settlement. Looking for property around the Villa Serrana area, Inmobiliaria Serrana is your best bet. They have a comprehensive list of resales and are the exclusive broker for land here. You can contact them at; tel. +598 4442-8000; e-mail: [email protected]. • A great little ranch in the hills here, with a little over 1.5 acres of partially wooded land, completely fenced, with new corrals for horses or other animals, a well, and a recently constructed house. The house has 1,000 square feet of living area and lots of large windows. Price: $200,000. • There’s also an attractive—although red—quincho (a thatched-roof cottage) for sale. The property includes a three-quarter acre lot, a two-floor house with four bedrooms, a single bathroom, and a large living area with a big stone fireplace, and a garage. Price: $120,000. Chapter Four: Finding Your Region and Your Home

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©Lee Harrison

The gentle hills around Villa Serrana make it perfect for a leisurely day of horse riding

• A smaller property is for sale in the beautiful Baño de India neighborhood of Villa Serrana. The land in this area gets the most dollars per square feet of any in the region. The house has four bedrooms and a wonderful lake view on a 6,219-square-foot lot. Price: $60,000. • Also, there are a number of lots for sale with valley, lake, and canyon views. They are of varying sizes, and the prices range from roughly $13 per square meter ($52,000 per acre) to $20 per square meter ($80,000 per acre) in the most panoramic area. Prices depend on available services and natural beauty of each area. • A rustic cabin is for sale in Villa Serrana. The valley and mountain views from the upper deck of this two story cabin are stunning. Price: $60,000. For more details, you can contact the owner, Leonardo, at; tel. +598 (96) 421-101. Villa Serrana would be a good choice for expats who want country living not far from a small city, with peaceful panoramic vistas and reasonable prices.

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Tacuarembó—The heart of the pampas Situated in the vast rolling hills of the Uruguayan pampas, Tacuarembó is what I’d call the “heart of the heartland” of Uruguay, reminiscent of a Midwestern U.S. farming community. It is a small city of 48,000, and serves as the hub for the miles of vast ranchland in this part of central Uruguay. It’s neat, sycamore-shaded streets are lined with a nice array of shops and restaurants. It has several shady town plazas, which are well-kept and attractive. The town park located on the edge of the city—Laguna de las Lavanderas—has large trees, a picnic grove, and an attractive lake. On weekends you’ll see families picnicking, meeting with friends, or swimming. Although it doesn’t have the cultural scene of Montevideo or the tourist trade of Colonia or Mercedes, it does have just about everything else you’d need for living comfortably in this area. I spent a leisurely couple of days strolling around the plazas, sampling the pizza shops, parrilladas, and family restaurants, while sipping mate and watching the townspeople drift by.

©Flickr.com/Vince Alongi

If you’re looking for a condo, a gated community, or some type of planned living environment, this is not the place to shop. The properties here are clean, simple homes for the most part, with a few higher-end offerings on the edge of town.

Tacuarembó embraces its gaucho heritage with an annual parade

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Although the town was quite livable, Tacuarembó will be most attractive to those people who dream of owning a large tract of ranchland in the pampas. It’s also the perfect place for a small ranch for horses and stables. • In the heart of El Centro, just one block off the main avenue of town, is a nice house for sale. It’s spacious, with 3,400 square feet of living area, including five bedrooms, three bathrooms, an office, a large patio, and an American-style kitchen (plenty of cabinets). It also has air conditioning and is in very good condition. Price: $125,000. For more information, contact the owner at; tel. +598 (99) 742-984. • Another nice one on the market is a two-story house, also in El Centro, with two terraces (one a rooftop terrace), patio, and a garage under the house. Three large bedrooms, two bathrooms, a large American kitchen with wood stove, and a large living area make up the 1,615 square feet of floor space. Price $130,000. For details, contact the owner; tel. +598 4632-7886. • There’s a great farm for sale outside of Tacuarembó. The property includes 12 fenced acres (5 hectares) of rolling farmland, with a variety of fruit and flowering trees and a small pond. There are school and public transportation bus-stops in front of the property. The house was remodeled in 2004, so it’s ready to move in, with an updated kitchen and bathrooms. Price: $180,000. For more information, contact Saul Inmobiliaria; e-mail: [email protected]. When buying land around Tacuarembó, be sure to check the CONEAT rating along with prices, based on what you’re looking for (see page 120 for an explanation of CONEAT agricultural land ratings in Uruguay). A decent house in town will start at about $70,000, with higher-end homes of over 2,000 square feet selling for between $90,000 and $150,000.

Mercedes—The little city on banks of the Río Negro Mercedes has been my favorite little city in Uruguay since my first trip in 2004, and in my opinion, each subsequent visit shows that it just keeps getting better. It’s the kind of place where everyone knows everyone, people are friendly, and you can leave your bicycle unchained on the sidewalk. For me, it has the right combination of comforts and conveniences, but isn’t big enough to attract big-city problems. Mercedes is the capital of the department of Soriano, known as a boating center and health resort. It also has an extensive rose garden, a system of parks along the river, and a well-known musical society that hosts an internationallyfamous jazz festival each year. (You can see one of the acts here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbYcxhvabPs.)

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The city is located on the banks of the Río Negro, a wide, calm river that looks pristine when compared to the often-murky Uruguay River, a half-hour away. The international bridge to Argentina at Fray Bentos is 30 minutes to the west.

©Lee Harrison

Mercedes has a number of sandy beaches on the river, a small sheltered marina, and a large wooded island park—Isla del Puerto—connected to the mainland by a one-lane bridge. The park’s woods and small beaches provide a social space for the residents of Mercedes. On most days you’ll find families grilling, enjoying the water, or relaxing.

Mercedes has a number of small beaches along the quiet Rio Negro

A wide rambla runs along the waterfront and hosts an endless procession of antique cars, motorbikes, and people strolling along the river. In the center of town, Plaza Independencia is green and leafy, with its beautiful illuminated fountains watched over by the old cathedral. Don’t look for all-night tango clubs, fine dining, shows, or hot nightlife, although there are a couple of good restaurants in town. Expats who settle here come to avoid the stresses of the everyday world…not for the nightlife. The safety of the town is demonstrated by the number of bikes left unattended and unsecured on the sidewalks, the motorbikes with the keys in the ignitions, and the large plate-glass windows on the storefronts left unprotected overnight.

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Over the last few years I’ve seen obvious signs of revitalization in Mercedes. There’s a new, modern hotel on the main square, many buildings are freshly painted, and a number of streets have been converted to pedestrian walkways (peatonales), lined with nice shops and busy with people strolling and windowshopping. There’s no airport in Mercedes, but they do have a Buquebus office (the company that runs ferries to Argentina) and an American Airlines office. Also, there’s a bus terminal with service to other parts of Uruguay.

Riverside video tour of Mercedes While most of Uruguay is famous for its wide beaches on the Atlantic Ocean, Mercedes—sitting on the banks of the Rio Negro—enjoys one of the country’s nicest riverfront settings. Click on the link below to see some video footage of Mercedes famed riverfront area:

http://internationalliving.com/2011/04/riverside-video-tour-of-mercedes-uruguay/

The homes in Mercedes vary in style and type, with some even having that European flavor common to downtown Montevideo. Most are suitable for yearround living. When shopping for real estate in in Mercedes, be aware that the Rio Negro has been prone to flooding. They had a “hundred-year flood” back in 2007, which reached a full block inland in places…even more on one street. The floods of 1959 were not quite so high.

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An honest local real estate agent (Juan Francia of Inmobiliaria Piloni) showed me the high water marks, and warned me away from a few tempting properties nearer to the water.

Property samples in Mercedes • There’s an old colonial-style house on offer, ready for restoration, with five bedrooms and a large interior patio. Price: $75,000. For details, contact Inmobiliaria Piloni; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.sorianototal.com/piloni/inmobiliaria.htm. • A well-built, two-story house is listed in El Centro. It has three bedrooms, one bathroom, a small yard, and hardwood parquet floors. Price: $90,000. Contact Martin Vargas Inmobiliaria for information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.sorianototal.com/vargas/estudios.htm. • An excellent house in the center of town with five bedrooms, a two-car garage, tiled patio, and a nice yard. Price: $120,000. This is also listed with Martin Vargas Inmobiliaria; website: www.sorianototal.com/vargas/estudios.htm. • There’s an excellent two-floor house, conveniently located in the heart of the city, with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, an office or den, a garage, and a terrace and patio. Price: $160,000. Contact Inmobiliaria Piloni for further details; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.sorianototal.com/piloni/inmobiliaria.htm. As you can see, the prices are good here. But keep in mind that if you have a house valued at over $120,000, it will be difficult to sell on the local market. If you want to sell it one day to a local, I’d stay under $100,000. Mercedes is not the place I’d buy in order to manage a rental property. It’s a good city for those who want a relatively small community with a bit of tourism—but not enough tourism to disrupt the town’s everyday life. There are an ever-increasing number of people who are looking to get away from the world’s political and economic turmoil, and Mercedes is one of several Uruguayan cities that qualify for this nicely. It enjoys pure air, plenty of water, and a renewable (hydroelectric) energy supply. Plus, it’s safe, and inexpensive. It’s developed enough to have all the conveniences, but small enough to feel like home.

Rentals in Mercedes Houses are available for rent in Mercedes at a very reasonable price. I found a number of them in El Centro through Inmobiliaria Piloni, priced between $250 and $500 per month for a two-bedroom house. Contact them at; e-mail: [email protected] for more information.

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An important lesson for the buyer I called about a house in Mercedes that looked like an interesting project. The real estate agent told me she had an inside track with the owner and— after hard negotiating on our behalf—she could get me the house for $60,000. But I’d noticed a message tacked to the door with the owner’s phone number on it, so I called him. I found that the asking price was only $45,000. He didn’t know that the real estate agent was raising his price by 33%, and was not happy. ALWAYS double-check prices when you can. If you can’t find out who the owner is, ask the gardener, a neighbor, or search the Internet. You can’t always confirm, but it’s often worth it when you do.

Dolores Heading down the highway on the way from Mercedes to Carmelo, is the town of Dolores. This is a clean and well-kept village, built around the town square, and along its attractive riverfront on the San Salvador River. Lunch at a pleasant restaurant on the Plaza Constitución (the main town square) was cheap as demonstrated by the fact that the most-expensive wine on the wine list was just $13, for an oak-barrel Tannat. Dolores represents Uruguay’s “Interior pricing” at its best. Dolores is obviously an agricultural community, as evidenced by the grain mills, cattle vets, and farm suppliers. But it also has a traditional Uruguayan rowing club (like an athletic club) and a fishing club down at the river for the residents. The waterfront park is large, picturesque, and well-maintained, with a smaller beach and fewer beachgoers than nearby Mercedes. There are plenty of picnic tables, and attractive sandy beaches along the pristine river. In the town center, you’ll find some nice shops, and some high-end, beautiful homes in a few areas. Is the Interior for you?

There’s a lot to be said for the simple, hearty lifestyle of the Uruguayan Interior. But remember, you’re often a long way from the international airport in Montevideo, and the local airports have little—if any—connecting service. The

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best airport connection may involve hours of driving. The cultural scene is not what you’ll find in Montevideo, and the nightlife won’t be that of Punta del Este. There are few expats and almost no English-speakers. But what you lose in glitz, you’ll make up for in many other ways. There’s very little crime in the Interior, and people are friendly, honest, and hard-working. Properties are inexpensive, and the cost of living is noticeably lower than Montevideo or the Atlantic coast. Perhaps most importantly, if you want to experience the real Uruguayan culture—what makes it special and unique—the Interior is where you are going to find it. A number of IL readers have moved to the Interior already, and all things considered, you may find it’s a good choice for you.

Uruguay’s river cities The river that forms Uruguay’s western border with Argentina has two names. As it works its way down from the interior, it’s the Uruguay River (Río Uruguay) where it passes Fray Bentos, Paysandú, and Salto, until it gets to Carmelo and Argentina’s Paraná River delta. Downstream from Carmelo, it’s called Río de la Plata as it passes Colonia, Buenos Aires, and Montevideo, until it gets to the open Atlantic. The cities along the river have a character all their own. In some ways they are like those of the Interior, with their old-fashioned ambiance, and in other ways some are like resorts, drawing tourists to the cities’ own unique attractions. We’ll start in the north with Salto and work our way down the river.

Salto—A great alternative to Montevideo Salto is a real city. Built on a series of rolling hills next to the Uruguay River some 300 miles north of Montevideo, it has virtually everything you’ll find in the capital. The prices, however, are remarkably lower. With a population of 100,000, it is the second-largest city in Uruguay and the heart of its produce industry, with huge citrus farms throughout the area. A steady flow of Uruguayan and international tourists—who come to enjoy the nearby hot springs—provide an additional economic boost to the area. The commercial district is clean, alive, and bustling as it extends to the waterfront and the port. The parks and plazas are well-kept and provide a good place to relax, read the paper, and watch the people go by. The city also boasts a number of fine restaurants, a theater, a large university, an airport, and plenty of shopping.

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©Lee Harrison

Salto is Uruguay’s second largest city and has everything you’ll find in the capital…but at lower prices

Salto’s waterfront area provides a pleasant, green setting in which to spend an afternoon. From here you can watch the workings at the port—which is not very busy—and admire the giant, classic Customs house or visit the Uruguay River Museum. If you go north of town, past the bridge to Argentina, you’ll come to Parque del Lago, a popular spot for people who want to get out of the city on weekends for picnics and barbecues. The river here is very wide, due to Salto’s giant hydroelectric dam…a dam that was completed in 1979, and is the largest in Uruguay. South of town, you’ll come to Daymán, an area that draws thousands of tourists seeking to bathe in its renowned hot springs. The cost of living is low in Salto; you can usually enjoy a good dinner out for about 30% less than you’d spend in Montevideo, and half of what it would cost you in Punta del Este. In fact, the overall cost for most things seemed noticeably lower here, including property taxes. Salto’s property market

The nicest residential district is on the south side of town, along the river. The properties are big, with tall trees and large homes that often boast river views.

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But Salto’s downtown is a good choice if you’re looking for an old home to restore—especially if you don’t want to own a car. The most enticing aspect of the property market is the purchase of colonialstyle homes to restore and sell, or live in yourself. In Salto, the homes are not actually “colonial”, but rather from the 19th century through the Art Deco period. You could certainly lead the good life here in a classic home without spending a fortune. Another aspect of the market in Salto also creates a good opportunity. The local university—which draws students from Uruguay, Argentina, and Brazil—has no dorm. So there’s a big demand for student housing. There was an antique home of 17 bedrooms and two courtyards on the market that would be a perfect project for this. The entire house needed restoration to make it useable, and a couple of the bedrooms could be converted into additional bathrooms…but the asking price was only $85,000.

Property samples in Salto A good real estate agent in Salto is Cánepa y Cánepa, Calle Uruguay 1501, Salto; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.canepa.com.uy. They are honest and hard-working, and have a great selection of properties. They’re one of Uruguay’s largest real estate agents, with offices in Montevideo and Punta del Este as well as Salto. They are one of the few real estate agents in Uruguay’s Interior who have English-speaking agents. These are some of the properties they are listing. • In what has to be the prettiest part of Salto, a wooded, riverside neighborhood near the Club de Remeros or rowing club, is a well-maintained little house for sale, with a single bedroom and bathroom, a generous kitchen, fireplace in the living room and a covered patio out back. Price: $80,000. • Outside of the city, near the famous and ever-popular Termas Daymán (hot-springs), is a very solid looking stone and wood house, which sits on an acre of well-tended grounds with a big covered parrilla picnic area. The house has two bedrooms sharing one bathroom, and cathedral ceilings with a loft overlooking the living room. Price: $110,000. • A modest sized colonial house, which sits on a corner lot with a nice garden along its side. The house has two spacious bedrooms sharing a huge bathroom, and there’s a big interior courtyard complete with parrilla (barbecue) and upgraded outdoor lighting. The house and garage also have an alarm system and motion sensor lights. Price: $115,000.

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• There’s also a newer house in Cerro neighborhood of Salto for sale right now. The property includes three bedrooms and three bathrooms, an office and living room with an oversized fireplace. There’s also a large garage, patio and covered barbecue outside. Price $180,000. • The most sought-after neighborhood by Salteños today is the Costanera Sur, or the area along the river south of the city. There’s an attractive, brick house, with three bedrooms, a spacious living room with fireplace, laundry room, and an office for sale. Outside there’s a nicely landscaped yard with pool, garage and covered barbecue. Price: $240,000. If your dream is to own a colonial-style home and buy it for a reasonable price, then the riverfront city of Salto is definitely worth a look.

Paysandú—For land parcels and low cost of living Settled in the mid-1700s as an outpost for the cattle industry, Paysandú remains a thriving city today. Its central park is the nicest in the region, and the downtown area is complete with shops and eateries. As one of Uruguay’s three largest cities, Paysandú has everything you’ll need, including its own local paper, El Telégrafo, with a good real estate section. Avenida 18 de Julio is the main street through town, where you’ll find 90% of the commercial activity. The residential areas found on one or two parallel streets running on either side of 18 de Julio are very nice, but beyond that the neighborhoods became run down. As you continue to the far end of town on 18 de Julio, the street turns into a nice, tree-lined residential area, then finally into a seedy nightclub and bar district on the waterfront. Upriver, there are a series of beautiful waterfront parks with picnic areas, extending all the way to Paysandú’s international bridge to Argentina. You’ll see mile after mile of green parkland, sports fields, several nice beaches, and even an outdoor theater. The marina and yacht club had a good number of small boats used by weekend boaters. Heading downriver from town, you’ll go through a number of poor areas and end up at the municipal zoo.

Property samples in Paysandú All of the properties below are listed with Inmobiliaria Paysandú; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmobiliariapaysandu.com.

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• There’s a nice 1,100-square-foot apartment for sale on 18 de Julio, with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and oak parquet floors. There are two patios included with this apartment, one of which has a built in barbecue fireplace. Price: $70,000. • On the outskirts of town, there’s a great country property with 1.3 acres of nicely landscaped yard and a 1,291-square-foot house with carport. The four-bedroom house is in very good condition, with ceramic floors and wooden framed windows. Price $115,000. • If you’d like to get your hands on a colonial, there’s a casa de época (period home) for sale, with 4,842 square feet of interior yard or patio. The house itself has 1,635 square feet, including three bedrooms, a spacious living room with fireplace, and original colonial tile floors in good condition. Price: $150,000. • If you’d prefer something newer, there’s a four-bedroom house with 1,650 square feet of living space. It was built in 2000, with nice hardwood windows and woodwork, floors are ceramic tile, and the half-acre yard is nicely landscaped. Price: $175,000. In my opinion, Paysandú really shines when it comes to buying land. Large land parcels will start at about $1,000 per acre, and go up from there. There are several smaller, 12 acre (5 hectare) farms listed with Inmobililiaria Paysandú right now for $60,000, or $5,000 per acre. If you’d like to try on a place by renting first, you can do so in Paysandú for a very good price. Two-bedroom houses in the center of town start as low as $400 per month and three-bedroom units start at $600. Inmobiliaria Paysandú has a good inventory of rentals and can help you with rentals or shopping for a home.

Fray Bentos—A new wave of prosperity Entering Fray Bentos from the highway, you’ll pass several nicely maintained parks shaded by tall sycamores. At the end of the road, you’ll come to a large waterfront park—complete with a concert hall—and then the Uruguay River. Nearby, you’ll see the international bridge that crosses into Argentina—Fray Bentos being the point furthest down-river where you can cross by bridge. Las Cañas is a beach area nearby, with a narrow but long crescent beach, picnic area, and campgrounds. There are no services or stores, but Las Cañas has a nice residential area. Fray Bentos is the capital of the department of Río Negro, and home to about 23,000 people. Its chief industries have traditionally been meatpacking, hides, and wool.

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Last time I was in Fray Bentos I found it to be a pleasant little town. This time, I found it to be a pleasant and very prosperous little town, thanks to the new, giant pulp mill constructed here by Finnish company Metsa-Botnia. The official name of the plant is “Orion”, but everyone in Uruguay knows it simply as “Botnia”, the name that appears in giant letters on the front of the plant, which lies a few miles out of town. You can really see the difference around town. The Gran Hotel Fray Bentos, for example, which was closed for over 10 years, is now refurbished, modernized, and filled to capacity on most days. There are housing developments springing up, and houses being fixed up all over town. There is a lot of English spoken in Fray Bentos these days, as virtually all of the Finns seem to speak it. I even found an English-Spanish bilingual high school.

Street names Somewhere in Uruguay’s past, a founding father, now lost to history, must have decreed that there be a standard collection of authorized street names to be used in every city…or at least it seems that way. No matter where you are in the country, you’ll find the same names over and over. Names like 18 de Julio, Sarandí, Juncal, Michelini, Florida and 25 de Mayo, just to name a few. As you travel about Uruguay and the cities begin to “run together”, this will add to your confusion.

And it’s easy to see the Finnish cultural influence. For example, between Fray Bentos and Las Cañas, you’ll pass a development of big, modern homes on large lots. The houses looked like Cubist art pieces, and the whole place looks like it came from another country—which I suppose it did, in a way.

Property samples in Fray Bentos Inmobiliaria Buzo & Cia has the most extensive inventory for the city and have a wide range of sizes, styles, and price-ranges to show you. Contact them at; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmobiliariabuzoycia.com.uy • Starting at the modest end of the spectrum, they have a nice, two-story house downtown, with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, a large eat-in kitchen with fireplace, and terrace. There’s a garage tucked away under the house. Price $120,000. • There’s a good-looking two-story right on the riverfront with 2,388 square feet of floor space and plenty of big windows facing the water. The property includes four bedrooms, two bathrooms, maid’s quarters, a garage, and a patio. Price $185,000.

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• A large Art-Deco style house on a corner in town. It’s a three-story, with three bedrooms, four bathrooms, a huge living room, family room, office, maid’s quarters, a garage, and landscaped gardens in back surrounding a swimming pool. Price: $225,000.

It is possible to rent in Fray Bentos. Houses with two, three, and four bedrooms for $500 and less are listed with Buzo & Cia. There are also some chacras or ranches for rent for a bit higher.

If you’re in Fray Bentos, be sure to stop at a parrilla called El Muelle. It sits right on the river, with a terrific view. Entrees, wine, and desserts for two people came to $29.

Carmelo—Back to the 19th century The practice of planting a tree every 50 feet along both sides of the highway was common throughout Uruguay in times gone by, particularly on the approach to a city. The trees can be palm, eucalyptus, or sycamore, and they form a beautiful, green tunnel that makes you feel like you’re on the road to Oz.

As the years passed, however, the old meandering roads in many cases were replaced by straight, modern highways connecting one city to another. Where this happened, you sometimes see the old double row of trees wander off course and then return as it follows the road’s former path.

At the entrance to Carmelo, however, today’s highway still follows the old route as you pass through mile after mile of sycamores when approaching this old city, left over from Uruguay’s early glory days. Carmelo was once a destination for Montevideo’s wealthy, who arrived by steamer to this port city of 22,000. The city lies on the Uruguay River at a point where it joins Arroyo de las Vacas, a stream that widens into a sheltered harbor at Carmelo. The town itself is on the north side of the arroyo with a narrow iron bridge connecting it to the south side.

On the south side, you’ll find the marina, yacht club, Club de Remeros (a rowing/athletic club), a casino/hotel, and the still-active port. There is also a nice residential area, with spacious, well-kept homes with big yards and a large, riverside park. You’ll also find a number of restaurants and parrilladas on the south side, as well as a campground.

The casino hotel here is a class act, and is a good option for staying in Carmelo. During my last visit, its old-fashioned lobby was bustling with people talking, reading the paper, and having coffee. It looked like a 1920s movie set. The pool was surrounded by sunbathers and swimmers, and the beautiful dining room was just setting up for lunch. Even if you don’t stay here, it’s worth a visit for the restaurant. Chapter Four: Finding Your Region and Your Home

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Finally, the road on the south side terminates at the ever-popular Playa Seré, where you’ll see a good crowd camping, barbecuing and swimming on warm weekends. Crossing back over the iron bridge into town, I found the city to be pleasant, although fairly unremarkable. Some of the architecture is of the colonial style, while some is mid-20th century. I don’t believe I saw any neighborhood that was entirely restored…or any that was entirely bad. Most had a few nice buildings, with the rest being pretty worn around the edges.

©Lee Harrison

Carmelo has everything you’d need with respect to shopping, dining, and keeping the household going, with a bustling shopping district. I also found a number of well-maintained parks and plazas.

Quiet Carmelo has a number of little parks and plazas…perfect for watching the world go by

The original town plaza, however—Plaza General Artigas—has been somehow forgotten, and lies several blocks away from the main thoroughfare. The plaza itself is nice, with tall trees, grassy islands, and tile walkways. I’m not sure I’d call the neighborhood seedy, but it’s not the nicest section of the city either. But it was the part that held my interest, because of its potential.

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On my first visit, I felt that something was going on in the area around this old square. A couple of old buildings around Plaza Artigas had been beautifully restored. And elsewhere in the area, I saw five other buildings with “Sold” signs on them—something I saw nowhere else in town. A couple of them were already being restored as well. In 2011, I returned to see what had happened. Sure enough, the “sold” buildings from my previous visit had been beautifully restored. But unfortunately, the gentrification trend I had hoped for never materialized. Aside from those few buildings, the rest of the area is still in disrepair. But Carmelo’s incredible popularity has not faded in the slightest. At 11 p.m., the restaurants are full, and people are cruising in droves, on a circuit from downtown Carmelo out to the area around the yacht club and Playa Seré.

Property samples in Carmelo Carmelo offers plenty of properties at good prices. • In the tranquil Las Brisas neighborhood, is a nice looking two-story for sale, with 1,517 square feet of living space. There are two bedrooms, one bathroom, an integrated living/kitchen area and an invitingly shady yard, which now contains a plant nursery. Price $70,000. For more information, contact Inmobiliaria Gabriel Conde; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.gabrielconde.com. • A 1970-vintage house for sale near the beach area of Carmelo. It is in good condition and has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, living and family rooms, a large attached garage, and two patios. It covers 2,937 square feet. Price $85,000. This is also listed with Inmobiliaria Gabriel Conde; website: www.gabrielconde.com. Based on what I saw on the market for rentals, you can expect to pay about $350 per month for a two-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment. To the north of Carmelo, you’ll find a nice country club and a Four Seasons resort about four miles away. (See www.fourseasons.com/carmelo for details.) Is Carmelo for you?

What got my attention here was the low real estate pricing and the friendly lifestyle. And more than anything, Carmelo is a long-standing tradition. The people who come here swear by the city and its amenities, and are loyal to this tradition. Carmelo has a good tourist infrastructure with more than its share of restaurants and shops. Chapter Four: Finding Your Region and Your Home

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This is a great place to settle by the sea, in a neighborly atmosphere, at a good price. If you like the bustle of an active resort from times gone by—or would like to embark on a tourist-related business—then Carmelo could well be for you.

Colonia—Uruguay’s World Heritage Site Located just 28 miles across the river from Buenos Aires (a 50-minute ferry ride), Colonia del Sacramento, or Colonia, is right off a picture postcard with its cobblestone, well-shaded sycamore-lined streets, fine shops, galleries, and great restaurants and parrilladas. Founded by the Portuguese in 1680, this former fortress has a healthy but not overbearing tourist trade, and is the epitome of what a restored colonial settlement should look like, with its antique stone houses, parks, and fortresses. Its 21,000 residents enjoy all the conveniences of a small city, with the extra, upscale niceties the tourist industry brings.

©Lee Harrison

Unlike Punta del Este, Piriápolis, or La Paloma, Colonia is “open all year”. It never closes up, even in the winter. There’s a high season between December and March, but even in July you can find the nicer hotels booked solid on the weekends. The dazzling seaside sunsets of course, are a year-round feature.

Antique cars are a regular feature on Colonia’s quiet, shady streets

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Colonia is a perfect town for strolling, particularly in the small historic center. I’ve spent many a leisurely afternoon at one of Colonia’s waterfront parrilladas, watching the boats go by on one side of the table and the people on the other, followed by passing the time exploring the shaded streets and quiet colonial neighborhoods. The antique cars that Uruguay has been noted for over the years have now become rare in Montevideo and Punta del Este, but you’ll still see a few on the streets of Colonia. The city also has a well-sheltered marina with plenty of mooring space. The rush to Colonia is underway Things are booming in Colonia, and it’s become a magnet for foreign investors and retirees. People from all parts of the world are strolling its streets in record numbers these past few years, with hotel occupancy rates running higher than 90%. Today, I’m seeing lots of North Americans; my hotel was half-full of them. And the North Americans aren’t just visiting; there are quite a few who’ve settled here, along with other English-speaking expats from around the world.

Areas of interest in Colonia Colonia has three major areas that continue to hold an interest for expats:

Barrio Histórico is the original settlement, and if you’d like to buy or restore a historic building, this is the place to do it. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the sector has a very high concentration of fine restaurants and high-end shops, as well as a continuous supply of people visiting to enjoy them. Real estate is more expensive here than in the other sectors of Colonia, but then again, you’re buying more than just a building. Barrio Histórico is one of the best preserved Portuguese colonial historic centers in existence today, with a good number of homes from the late 1600s still standing and still occupied. Centro lies just outside of Barrio Histórico, and is home to its own fair share of historic and antique buildings. This reasonably priced sector is noted for its quiet, tree-lined streets, restaurants, and parks. It also has a bustling commercial center where you can actually buy a claw hammer or an ironing board, instead of just oil paintings and angora sweaters. Centro is just a short walk to the center of Barrio Histórico, which has two advantages: One is that you have easy access to the attractions of the old city, including its bars and restaurants. The other is that, since it’s not actually part of the old city, most of the neighborhoods are relatively free of tourist foot traffic, and the sector is not bound by the historic district’s building regulations, and not subject to its taxes.

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The Balnearia runs along the rambla beside Río de la Plata, which looks like the ocean at Colonia. It has traditionally been a residential area, boasting quiet neighborhoods, elegant homes, and stunning water views, especially at sunset.

©Dreamstime.com/Breakers

If you’re looking for a new single home with a large yard—near a nice beach— the Balnearia is a good bet.

Colorful colonial buildings and cobblestone streets have made Colonia popular with expats in recent years

Colonia property overview Property prices have traditionally been highest in Barrio Histórico and lowest in Centro, with the Balnearia falling in between. The opportunities for capital appreciation and rental income have been the best in Barrio Histórico; but over the past few years, Centro and the Balnearia have actually appreciated more rapidly. Between 2004 and 2011, the change in Centro has been dramatic. Many of the old homes have been restored, and their price tags have risen to match. And even the unrestored homes have risen, as investors and buyers have seen the value in them. I saw a number of properties in Centro that were priced like those in Barrio Histórico.

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I found a few great buys in Centro…but the days of the large, $50,000 house there are gone. Nonetheless, I believe Centro has the best real estate values overall. The real boom story however is on the Balnearia. It’s today’s hottest real estate zone, with high-end new projects sprouting like wildflowers. Despite the handful of upscale condo projects, it still retains its roomy suburban feel. But prices have jumped remarkably. I’ll give you a personal example. In 2005, there was an empty lot on the rambla, for an asking price of $96,000. Although the agent said so, he was unable to convince me it was a good value, or that the area was about to boom. In 2009, this property resold for $125,000… in 2010, it went for $350,000…and in February 2011, it was on the market for $500,000, and they were confident of getting that price, or more. (The insightful agent I originally saw it with was Joaquin Mato; e-mail: [email protected].) All of the real estate agents in town sell in Centro, Balnearia, and Barrio Histórico, and for the most part, they show each other’s properties even though there’s no multiple-list service. Last year, I wondered if prices in Colonia had topped out…but they hadn’t. Based on my own personal observation, they appear to have jumped another 20% or more in 2011 alone.

Property samples in Colonia Barrio Histórico

• There’s a casa antigua on the popular Avenida de las Palmeras, 20 yards from the yacht basin. It has walls of stone, two bedrooms, one bathroom, and a large kitchen. It’s in remarkably good condition, ready for move-in. Price: $250,000. Contact Joaquin Mato at Sergio Mato Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmomato.com. • Perched on a corner in the heart of the historic center, there’s an original colonial house for sale. It has 1,570 square feet of floor space, and 1,678 square feet of charming interior patio. Currently in use as a clothing store, the property is on the tourist circuit, close to the Yacht Club, and surrounded by shops, restaurants and galleries. Price: $380,000. Contact Sergio Mato Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmomato.com.

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Centro

• A two-year-old apartment for sale with a water view and 1,183 square feet of living space. There are two bedrooms, two bathrooms, granite counters and a convenient location near Centro, the historic district and the port. Price: $180,000. For more details, contact Toribio Achaval Propiedades: e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy. • In El Centro is a casa antigua just half a block from the waterfront. It’s spacious, with just under 2,200 square feet including four bedrooms with parquet floors, and 14-foot high ceilings. Although in great condition, this one just needs some TLC to make it into a classic gem. Price: $240,000. This one is also listed with Toribio Achaval Propiedades; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy. • A tempting house for sale here just a couple blocks from the water. It’s been completely remodeled, so it’s ready for move-in. It’s a two-story with wonderful river views from the second-floor terrace. There’s just over 1,500 square feet with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a garage, and airconditioning. Price: $250,000. For more details, contact Toribio Achaval Propiedades: e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy.

Balnearia

• In the Balnearia or beachside zone, there’s an apartment in the Costa Colonia Suites building with nice water views. The unit has a nice balcony and 634 square feet of floor space, with a single bedroom and bathroom. Price: $150,000. Contact Toribio Achaval Propiedades for information; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy. • New apartments in the Altos del Virrey building on the waterfront are small, but well designed. In 441 square feet there’s a living/dining room, one bedroom and one bathroom. It has a balcony with great river views and a full array of building amenities. Price $165,000. Contact Toribio Achaval Propiedades for further information; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy.

Real de San Carlos

• In Real de San Carlos, there’s an excellent river view property, with 2,657 square feet of contemporary-style house on three floors. It has three bedrooms and two bathrooms, with a 260-square-foot patio, a roof-top terrace and a great river view. Price: $370,000. This is also through Toribio Achaval Propiedades; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy.

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• In this area you can buy a quarter acre lot starting at $67,000 and going up to around $210,000.

Rentals in Colonia Two-bedroom apartments go for around $1,000 per month in Colonia, if you’re interested in renting long-term. Colonia has long been one of my favorite places. It’s one that I think would be perfect for year-round living; a view shared by an ever-increasing number of people. In fact, a number of IL readers are already here.

A waterfront alternative outside of Colonia Barrio Santa Ana is located about 20 minutes southeast of Colonia, on the banks of Río de la Plata. It’s a small, cozy, residential seaside town, where people from Montevideo and other cities maintain vacation homes. The beaches here are tranquil, wooded and clean, and the waterfront homes have a splendid view of both the water and the stately trees. Properties here are quite reasonable. I saw a two-bedroom waterfront home of 1,300 square feet with a pool going for $110,000, although it does need a bit of work. Back to Montevideo

From Colonia, you can head southeast and be back in Montevideo within about two hours. It’s perhaps 100 miles away.

Building instead of buying Many people would rather buy a plot of land and build their dream home, instead of shopping for an existing home. This can often save you money, and you’re sure to get exactly what you want; no more, and no less. Construction costs in Uruguay will vary with the region that you’re in. But to be conservative, plan on spending $840 to $1,260 per square meter for normal construction; that’s $78 to $117 per square foot. For luxury, high-end construction, you’ll need about $1,575 per square meter ($146 per square foot). Restorations can vary as well, but if you’re restoring a building in Ciudad Vieja in Montevideo, plan on $315 to $630 per square meter, with a complete, high-end overhaul costing around $1,050. Remember, these rates will vary with the exchange rate between the U.S. dollar and the Uruguayan peso.

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A well-hidden cost Any renovation or remodeling done to a property in Uruguay must be registered with BPS (Banco de Provisión Social), which is Uruguay’s social security system. They’ll assess a charge for the work, which will go into the social security till. Even minor tasks like painting must be registered. If you plan to do the work yourself, you must still register the job in advance, but there will be no assessment. I’ve used perhaps six contractors in Uruguay, and not a single one mentioned this requirement, even though it’s universally known (this keeps their quoted price down). If you don’t register the work however, you’ll be pay it at the time of sale, and it can easily run into thousands of dollars in fines and payments.

The biggest challenge in moving to Uruguay is deciding where to live

This was the most difficult part for me when I came to Uruguay; deciding where to live. I loved the country right away. But after three trips, I was still debating which city I preferred. And I was a long way from deciding on a house. That came only after looking at hundreds of properties. And the problem wasn’t that I couldn’t find something I liked, it was that I found too many things I liked and couldn’t decide between them. That’s a good dilemma to have when you’re looking for a place to live!

Get the inside track on Uruguay real estate If you’d like to learn more about real estate investment opportunities both in Uruguay and around the world, join our VIP service, Real Estate Trend Alert. It gives you the inside track for international real estate deals with the best potential for very strong returns—like triple-digit gains—and how you can make a lot of money, very quickly through “off-market” deals. Find out who you need to talk to about down payments, financing, in-country legal help and everything else that will make your transactions smooth and easy. For all the details, see http://www1.internationalliving.com/promos/reta-talk/URETN201.html.

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CHAPTER FIVE Buying Property in Uruguay

Once you’ve picked out a home, you’ll need to complete the purchase and registration of your property. I found it to be fairly simple in Uruguay, and easy to understand. But before we get into that, let’s take a look at a few helpful facts about the real estate industry in general.

Compared to “back home”, it’s a different world The real estate business in Uruguay bears little resemblance to what you’ll find in the U.S., Canada, or much of Europe. There is no such thing as multiple listing, for example. Agents in Montevideo will have no idea what’s available in Colonia or Mercedes—unless they have a branch office there—or even what’s available from other agents in Montevideo. Some agents will show each other’s listings— almost always the case in Punta del Este—while others will not. Also, be aware that unlike the U.S., the “square footage” counts all the construction. When you see that a house is, for example, 200 square meters (about 2,100 square feet), this will also count the laundry room, attached garage, etc., everything that’s under roof. Usually, things like terraces and porches—even if they are under roof—are not counted, but it pays to ask. Uruguay uses the metric system for all property measurements. Land is measured in either hectares or square meters, while houses and apartments are measured in square meters. To make a quick conversion, remember that a square meter is just over 10 square feet, and that an acre is about 4,000 square meters. (A hectare is 10,000 square meters.)

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Metric conversion chart Metric 1 hectare

U.S. 2.47 acres

1 square meter

10.76 square feet

1 centimeter

0.39 inches

1 meter

3.28 feet or 39.36“

1 kilometer

0.621 miles

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The fine art of price padding A common practice among real estate agents is to pad the owner’s asking price, sometimes by a considerable sum. The way I find out is by contacting the owners directly, if I can.

The first real estate agent I caught doing this raised a property by a whopping $30,000; the woman I caught most recently had raised it by 33%. I caught one agent four times within a five-day period, and one office quoted me three different prices on the same property within 30 minutes.

Frankly, this bothers me less than it used to. It’s just how some real estate agents play the game, and some owners are worse with respect to price-changing. The reason I mention it is so you know that the listed price from the real estate agent is not sacred. It’s likely that there’s plenty of room to negotiate. Many people need cash. Bank financing is not that common, so if you can pay with cash you have significant bargaining power.

A step-by-step purchase process Making an offer:

Once you’ve decided how much to offer, your real estate agent will normally call the owner (or the owner’s agent) to get a tentative acceptance of the offer before going any further. This phone call (and associated negotiation) takes the place of the normal back-and-forth signing of sales agreements that we typically do in the U.S.

One of the downsides of making an offer in Uruguay is that you often must actually negotiate with the real estate agent first. In many cases, if the agent does not think your offer is high enough, they won’t convey the offer to the seller, even if there is a chance that the seller would accept.

I’ve seen this happen in two ways. Sometimes they’ll tell you they’re not calling the seller because the offer is too low…which is fine. More likely, however, is that they’ll tell you they called the seller and he said to “offer more”. (They never make this call in your presence.) One time I insisted that the real estate agent call while I waited, and he told me that the seller was traveling in the interior of Brazil and could not be reached. Yet within 10 minutes of leaving the office my cell phone rang, and the real estate agent advised me that the owner said to “offer more”. I’ve found that in most cases where the real estate agent has failed to pass your offer to the seller, there’s no counter-offer. In other words when they come back with “offer more” instead of a number, it’s probably because the owner was not contacted. Some real estate agents will convey all offers, and some will call the owner in your presence. This is a good practice, in my book. 116

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Find an escribano:

Once your offer is accepted, the first thing you need to do is find an escribano. This is the person who represents your interests in the property transaction, and records the transaction itself. You should choose an escribano in the way you would choose an attorney, and make sure you trust and have confidence in them. A good escribano will also act as an escrow agent, and will disburse the money to everyone at closing. This will be a critical service if you don’t have a bank account in Uruguay, since you can’t pay the seller with a foreign check…and you sure don’t want to wire him money in advance. If you don’t speak Spanish, retain an escribano who speaks English so that you understand everything that’s going on. If you are using a real estate agent, they will often recommend an escribano or give you a choice of several. Personally, I have no problem using a real estate agent-recommended escribano. I would, however, think twice before using the seller’s own escribano. The escribano is a legally required part of the process in Uruguay, and their 3% fee is unavoidable. But I consider it money well-spent. They do a good job, and I’ve always felt safe and secure in property transactions thanks to their professional oversight. If you have an escribano you want to work with, you can use him or her for any property transaction in Uruguay, not just where their office is. See Appendix A for a list of escribanos in various parts of Uruguay.

What’s an escribano? Escribano is often translated as a “notary” in English, but an escribano in not like a notary in much of Latin America. A notario in other countries is usually an impartial government official, who represents no one in the sale. An escribano, on the other hand, represents one of the parties, and I’ve seen cases where the buyer and the seller each have their own escribano represent them in a transaction. I think of an escribano as a “real estate attorney”, or perhaps a “conveyance attorney”. Neither is an escribano like a notary public in the U.S. An escribano is a legal professional with a university degree that requires between four and five years of study. They either have their own offices or work for a law firm. They are neither elected nor appointed, but they are registered with the Supreme Court, and fall under strict guidelines with respect to procedure or record retention. An escribano is not necessarily a lawyer. Occasionally, you’ll see an escribano (or escribana for women) who is also a lawyer, which requires that he or she hold both degrees.

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Complete the Boleto de Reserva:

Your escribano will first contact the seller (not his agent) to confirm that the seller understands the terms of the sale. He then completes the Boleto de Reserva, which is a preliminary sales contract. This important document records the buyer and seller, sales price, desired closing date, commissions, and any specific terms of the sale, including penalties for default on the contract. It is not a publicly recorded document. The Boleto de Reserva is normally accompanied by a 10% deposit, which will remain with the escribano until closing. Some real estate agents will tell you that you may deposit that 10% with them, but don’t do it. I recently saw an agent attempt to walk off with the buyer’s money. You should only deposit funds with your escribano, since his legal obligations are much stricter. Title verification and the Escritura de Compraventa:

Over the next 30 to 45 days, the escribano will verify that the title is clear, and that there are no outstanding liens, claims or other issues, going back 30 years. The escribano will verify that all of the records in the property registry are in order, and will analyze the tax situation for closing. Uruguay has a well-organized registry system and no history of land expropriations, so it’s unlikely that he’ll find an insurmountable problem at this stage. During this time, the escribano will also have the seller hand over all pertinent documentation, such as the old titles, original blueprints, tax receipts, and building permits for any modifications, etc. He will then draw up the final transfer document, known as the Escritura de Compraventa, which is signed by both parties at closing. Final closing:

This is where you and the seller both sign the Escritura de Compraventa, and all money changes hands. The escribano will withhold (or collect) all taxes owed on the property, and take care of paying them. As in the U.S., buyers and sellers may also need to pro-rate tax payments, condo fees, and other payments. I’ve done this in two ways. On my first purchase, my escribano acted as escrow agent, and paid the seller, the taxes, and the real estate commission. On my next purchase, I paid the seller, escribano, and agent from my local account. The former way was much easier.

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Insider tip: If your escribano will not act as an escrow agent, find one who will.

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Recording the transaction in the registry:

Your escribano will record your purchase in the property registry, known as El Registro de la Propiedad Inmueble. The registry function is at the department level in Uruguay, with a property registry in each of Uruguay’s 19 department capitals. Record retention:

After closing, you’ll typically get a large collection of folders containing the property’s entire history—all the way back to the original blueprints. Many escribanos will retain these records for you if you desire, for safekeeping. If not, make sure you stop by to pick everything up after registration of the deed. The optional compromiso:

The compromiso (promissory deed) is used if you cannot obtain the final deed to the property at closing. The most common reason for it is the case of seller financing, but it can be used for any legal element that prevents recording of the final deed. Your escribano can draw up the compromiso, which records the contractual terms that will govern until you make final payment.

A summary of real estate transaction costs As a buyer, a good rule of thumb is to assume that the total transaction cost will be just over 8% of the sales price if you use a real estate agent, a little above 5% if you don’t. Here’s how they break down: • Real estate commission: 3% plus tax, or 3.66% • Escribano fee: 3%, plus tax, or 3.66% • Deed registration stamp duty (montepíos): 0.59% • Registry and tax certificates stamp duty: $400, on average. • Property transfer tax: 2% of the fiscal (assessed) value, which is significantly lower than the purchase price (usually about half) As a seller, it costs somewhat less: You’ll pay just over 5% if you use a real estate agent, and 2% if you don’t: • Real estate commission: 3% plus tax, or 3.66% • Property transfer tax: 2% of the fiscal (assessed) value, usually less than the purchase price

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In addition to these costs, the seller will also be required to pay tax on any capital gain realized by the sale, which will be collected by the escribano. The capital gains tax rate is 12%. But be advised that while the sale is in dollars, the actual gain is calculated in pesos…so the exchange rate between the peso and the dollar will affect the taxable gain. For example, my apartment gained about $35,000 in value while I owned it. But because the dollar fell significantly in value, my gain in pesos was small…and my tax was only $105.

Title insurance Title insurance is available in Uruguay through First American or Stewart. For details, contact Turalu Brady Murdock, at [email protected]

Financing your purchase Seller financing is not uncommon in Uruguay for both residents and nonresidents, especially from property developers. From sellers, the term is normally short: generally two years or less. Bank financing is also available to foreign residents, with proof of income. For non-residents, it’s hard to get financing in Uruguay, and if you do, you’ll get nonpreferred terms and interest rates. In both cases, interest rates will vary with market conditions. For many expats who retain a property in the U.S. or Canada, a second mortgage on that property is the least expensive option for financing.

No foreign ownership restrictions For matters of real estate, foreigners and Uruguayans are on equal footing. You do not need to be a resident to purchase or own property in Uruguay. Furthermore, there are no restrictions on where you can buy a property. Foreigners can buy beachfront land, land adjacent to international borders, and agricultural land in any quantity.

Categorizing farm land in Uruguay The Uruguayan government has categorized all of Uruguay’s land according to its capability to be productive. The rating system is called CONEAT, and it assigns a numerical rating to all land in Uruguay.

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Most of the prime agricultural land is found along the western edge of the country, near the Uruguay River (aka Río de la Plata, downstream) near the border with Argentina. If you’re planning on working the land in Uruguay, don’t buy it without knowing its CONEAT rating. Also, letting your real estate agent know that you are aware of these ratings—and intend to check any prospective purchase—will keep him or her honest with respect to the land’s potential productivity. Here’s the categorical breakdown, according to Universidad de la República, Facultad de Agronomía (College of Agricultural Science). As a reference, the national average CONEAT rating is 100, and ratings range from 0 to 263.

Agricultural Agricultural-Pasture Pasture-Agricultural Pasture

CONEAT Agricultural Ratings Very High High Medium 190 153 115 155 135 100 125 120 115 90 75

Low 90 60 90 35

A good agronomist can tell you specifically which kinds of crops are able to thrive under any given rating. Insider tip: If you are buying land for that’s destined for recreational use—such as a development or for personal use—then you do not need a high CONEAT rating. If the rating is high, the land may be over-priced for your intended purpose.

Buying property at auction The terrific deals found at the property auctions in Uruguay have received a lot of attention. If you buy at auction, most of the legal requirements I’ve described here still apply once you’ve acquired the property. The process for finding the property and establishing the price, however, is quite different.

Power of Attorney If you can’t be in Uruguay when you need to sign the Boleto de Reserva, Compromiso, or Escritura de Compraventa, make sure someone can sign for you by granting them power of attorney. This should normally be a limited Power of Attorney, which allows for the purchase of property on your behalf. You can grant Power of Attorney to a family member or a trusted friend, but it’s normally most convenient to give it to a lawyer, who can also review the documents from a legal standpoint. Chapter Five: Buying Property in Uruguay

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Insider tip: It is far easier to grant Power of Attorney while you’re in Uruguay than it is to do it from outside the country. If you’re going to need one, make sure you take care of it before you go home. Even if you think you may need one, it could be money well-spent to get it during your visit.

Rental agreements Rental agreements are drawn up between the owner (or someone authorized by the owner, such as a real estate agent) and the future tenant. Executing the rental agreement does not require the presence of an escribano; real estate offices typically handle these contracts. Rental agreements need not be publicly recorded, but they can be if necessary. A temporary rental contract is allowed in seaside resort towns and cities (both Punta del Este and Montevideo qualify as seaside resorts). This contract must have a duration of between one day and three months. In Montevideo, these short-term rental contracts are allowed in properties built (or refurbished) after 1973. A standard long-term rental contract has a duration of one or two years, with an option of extending the contract for another year. If the tenant can prove that he always paid on time, he can stay on for another year paying the same amount as had been stipulated in the contract, or paying the increase agreed in the contract in the case of an extension. In order to avoid granting an extension, owners will sometimes include a clause with a sharp increase in price if the contract goes beyond the original term. A long-term rental tenant will have to provide one of the following: • A person who acts as a guarantor, who commits to all the payments and obligations of the tenant, and who has a property to guarantee the tenant’s responsibilities. • A deposit in the Banco Hipotecario del Uruguay (BHU—The governmentowned mortgage bank) of the equivalent of five month’s rent. Note: If a corporation is transferring the tenant, the corporation will often assume part of the tenant’s responsibilities.

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Be aware of renters’ rights In Uruguay, renters have rights with respect to their rental contract, even if the ownership of the property changes hands. Here are a few things to remember: ✓ Within specified limits, a new owner must honor the term of the contract. The limits vary between commercial and residential renters. ✓ As mentioned above, if the renter has a good payment record, he may be able to secure an additional contract year. ✓ Even if the renter is not paying, an eviction via the courts could take up to a year, and require expenses and legal fees. ✓ Many contracts can be abbreviated by means of a settlement, as can evictions. But in lieu of time, this takes money. ✓ The process to evict a non-paying, short-term rental tenant is much faster than the process to evict a long-term rental tenant.

Questions? If you have any question about the property purchase process in Uruguay, please feel free to contact attorney Juan Federico Fischer, at [email protected]. Juan’s firm, Fischer & Schickendantz, has seven bilingual escribanos who cover all of Uruguay’s main cities, and escrow account service for closings. Remember, the requirements you see here are current as of January, 2012, but laws change; so it’s always best to double-check with an attorney before taking action.

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CHAPTER SIX Getting a Visa and Becoming a Resident

Uruguay is somewhat unique in that the process for residency is designed to be done within Uruguay after you arrive, rather than in a consulate outside of Uruguay. It’s perfect for those who try the country out for a few months and then decide to stay. Uruguay’s Dirección Nacional de Migración (DNM, or simply Immigration) is the government office that deals with immigration and residency matters. This office receives residency petitions, together with the associated documents, and then reviews each request package and completes the approval process. The DNM also receives and grants visa extensions. The complete process for obtaining permanent residency takes around 12 months, in addition to the prerequisite time required to obtain the necessary documents, such as background checks. But early in the process you’ll get a cédula (ID card), which will give you access to everything as if you were a permanent resident. Keep in mind that residency is intended for people who are going to either live or spend significant time in Uruguay. You will be asked for an address, and its validity may be spot-checked by Immigration officials. This rule was ignored for a long time, but Immigration announced in 2011 that they intend to enforce it. Here’s a simplified version of the steps:

✓ Submit a letter of intent to Immigration, and obtain an appointment date ✓ Obtain your police background check ✓ Get a simple medical exam ✓ Provide evidence of your financial means of support ✓ Turn it all in with a copy of your passport ✓ Obtain your temporary cédula (ID card) ✓ Wait… ✓ Receive final approval, and obtain your permanent cédula

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Over-simplified? Well, yes. So let’s take a look at the details. Note: I’ve listed the contact details for all of the agencies involved in the residency process at the end of this section. A list of embassies and consulates can be found on page 209 of Appendix A.

Common types of visas in Uruguay Here are a number of visas that are available in Uruguay. Rentista Visa: As of this writing, there is no specific income requirement, but you must show an amount that’s reasonable to support the number of applicants in your family. Generally, an income of $1,000 per month will suffice for a single applicant. I came to Uruguay as a rentista, which means someone who has income from outside of Uruguay. There are, however, a few other options available. Employees: You must present a work contract, or a work commitment from your employer in Uruguay. They will also ask for notarized data about the company, your salary, and your term of employment. Business people or investors with a Uruguayan company: You’ll need to present a notarized declaration giving certain data about the type of business you’re doing and the financial structure you’re using, as well as your income. Independent entrepreneurs: A sworn, notarized declaration stating facts about your business, including its Uruguayan registration data, as well as your income. Religious workers: You’ll need certification from your church, identifying you, and assuming responsibility for your financial support while you’re in Uruguay. A church certification is used in lieu of a notarization. Students: A certification from your school, showing that you are a student there, how long you’ll be in Uruguay, what you’re studying, and where you’ll be living. Also, you’ll need to show how you’ll support yourself, which can be done by showing movement into your Uruguayan bank account. This certification must be notarized.

Retiring to Uruguay under Law 16.340 This law has received a lot of publicity over the years, because it entitles the retiree to a passport (without the normal wait time) and the importation of a vehicle, in addition to the duty-free importation of household effects that you’d have with the rentista visa.

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The benefits of Law 16.340 come with a few caveats. Here’s a brief rundown: ✓ The applicant must have a documented retirement income of at least $1,500 per month and it must be retirement income. ✓ You must own a property in Uruguay (purchased after 1992) that is valued at $100,000 or more…or have purchased a Uruguayan government security of the same value. The investment must be maintained for 10 years in order to maintain residency, although you can exchange one house for another, one government security for another, or a property for a security and vice versa. ✓ Under this law, you may import a vehicle. The vehicle may not be sold for four years, and liability insurance must be maintained. The vehicle must be registered, and the registry must show that its sale is restricted. ✓ You are eligible for a Uruguayan passport, both for you and your spouse (and children under 18). This passport is granted without citizenship. Citizenship will come when you apply for it, once you have resided in Uruguay for three years (if married) or five years (if single). ✓ You may not work in Uruguay, as this is a retiree’s visa, but you may own a business. Note that you will be entitled to import your household effects, duty free, as you can with other residency visas. Since this visa is a bit unusual, speak to residency expert Juan Fischer (you’ll find his full contact details in the Rolodex in Appendix A) before applying, just to make sure that there are no missteps.

Begin preparations before you leave home Before leaving your home country, or the one in which you have resided for the last five years, you should gather all of the required documents that need to be obtained and legalized outside of Uruguay. ✓ Birth certificate (not required for residency, but necessary to obtain your cédula) ✓ Marriage certificate ✓ Police record from country of origin and country of residency for the last five years. For U.S. citizens, this must be obtained at the Interpol office in Montevideo. ✓ Documented proof of income (more information below)

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The birth certificate, marriage certificate, and non-Interpol (non-U.S.) police records must be legalized at a Uruguayan Consulate in the country where they were issued. Once you have arrived in Uruguay, an official public translator must also translate them into Spanish. Then they are certified by the Foreign Ministry office, or the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores, located at Calle Cuareim 1348 in Montevideo. “Legalization”, as used in this section, is the authentication process performed at your closest Uruguayan consulate before submitting documents to Uruguay. Usually, you can phone the consulate and explain what you need, and they’ll ask that you send them the document, plus a check or money order for $112. Insider tip: Uruguay has just approved the Hague Convention which will allow them to use the apostille process…an authentication process that does not require consular legalization. The apostille process will take effect in Uruguay sometime during 2012. We’ll update this space when that happens. To find the closest Uruguayan consulate, visit the following link, and click on your country: www.embajada-online.com/consulados-de-Uruguay-en-otros-paises-P194.htm. If you have trouble finding your birth certificate, there is a useful online service to obtain it: www.vitalcheck.com. This service is only available in the U.S.

Your immigration status reflects the steps of the process During the process, you’ll be in one of four statuses: Tourist

Unless you’re a refugee, you’ll most likely enter Uruguay as a tourist, and this is where you’ll remain until you get approval to over-stay your original tourist entry time limit. No tourist visa is required for U.S., Canadian, or EU citizens. Tourist with approved letter of intent

Once you’ve turned in your letter of intent stating your desire to become a resident (and it has been approved), you no longer have to worry about overstaying your visa or tourist entry. Keep a copy of this letter. This is the status U.S. citizens will have during the interminable wait for your Interpol clearance. En trámite

En trámite means “in process”, and it signifies that you’ve turned in all of the requisite paperwork and are in the process of approval. You’re a temporary

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resident. While you’re en trámite, you’ll carry a normal cédula that has a lessthan-normal expiration date; usually one year. This cédula will give you access to everything residents have access to. Residente legal

As you can probably guess, this means legal resident, and it represents final approval. Uruguay does not stamp your passport with a visa, as most countries do.

The step-by-step residency process Step one: Requesting change of immigration status

Within 90 days of entering Uruguay as a tourist (180 if you’ve gotten an extension), you need to petition Immigration for a change in your immigration status. I’d suggest this be done at their main office, located at Calle Misiones 1513, Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo. The request must be in writing, stating your desire to change status from that of a tourist to that of a resident. This is done with a letter that contains the following information: • Your name • Place and date of birth • Address and phone number in Uruguay • A copy of your entry card received upon entering the country • A statement of your reasons for wanting to reside in the country (i.e., that you intend to become a resident). This letter is simple and is to document your intent to apply for residency. Do not philosophize here about why you’re leaving your country, why you like Uruguay, or give them any political commentary. Once this change of immigration status is approved, you may stay in the country without limitation. Approval should be granted within 10 working days.

Insider tip: Make sure you keep a copy of your entry card. You’ll need another copy of it later in the process.

Note: If you’re not in Uruguay when it’s time to solicit your appointment with Immigration, remember that your attorney can do it for you as long as you’ve authorized him/her to do so with a letter. At this writing, there’s a 10-week backlog for appointments, so having an attorney set it up could save you a trip to the country if you’re not already there.

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A few exceptions

If your parents or your spouse are citizens or legal residents of Uruguay, you still need to complete this request for change of status, but you may proceed with the residency process without waiting for approval. Citizens of some countries require a visa to enter Uruguay as a tourist.1 If you’re in this situation—in addition to the items mentioned above—you’ll need to attach photocopies of the pages of your passport that have your personal data, your current visa, and your current entry stamp.

Step two: Requesting your Interpol clearance This step is required of U.S. citizens, in lieu of a police check. In 2007, mine took five months to return, as they also do a criminal check in all 50 states in the U.S. During peak times, it can take longer. You can, and should, begin on step three before your Interpol results come back, but not much before, as some of the items can expire. I’d wait five months before going on to step three, unless, of course, your clearance comes back sooner. Non-U.S. citizens however, can move right along.

Step three: The resident visa application Once you’ve received approval for change of immigration status, you may assemble and submit the visa application package, consisting of the following: A current passport-sized photo:

You can get this at virtually any photo shop in Montevideo.

“But what about my pot bust back in ’68?” I get this question, or something similar, a lot. Just because you’ve had a brush with the law, it does not mean that you’ll be disqualified. But don’t try to handle this yourself. Get together with a good immigration attorney who will help you present your case as to why the occurrence should not keep you from becoming a resident. See the section on Immigration Consultants, on page 135, for a good reference.

A copy of your passport:

This copy does not need to be certified, but be sure to have your original with you when you present it. This requirement does not apply to citizens of the U.S., Canada, Western Europe, Israel, Japan, or New Zealand, since they do not require a visa. Neighboring countries do not require a visa or a passport. 1

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Documentation on how you intend to support yourself in Uruguay:

This is called medios de vida, which roughly equates to “means of support”. This certification does not come from your home country, but rather from an escribano in Uruguay. You must present evidence of how you intend to support yourself in Uruguay (pension check, Social Security, etc.) to an escribano, convince them your information is complete, and they’ll prepare a certification, which you’ll take to Immigration. There are several possible sources for this income. • Pensions from your home country2 • Mutual fund or retirement fund income • Proceeds from the lease of a property overseas or in Uruguay • Income from a company, overseas or in Uruguay • A contract to perform work in Uruguay In my case, I provided a pile of pension check stubs, bank statements showing direct deposits of the pension (in the U.S.), and bank statements from my bank in Uruguay, showing inbound wire transfers and ATM withdrawals. The escribana I used was Alexandra Fernández in Punta del Este. Her office is located on Calle Gorlero, which is the main road on the Peninsula, and she’s listed in Appendix A.

Insider tip: Do not use an escribano or escribana who has not done this before, unless you plan on repeating this step several times. The exact wording is critical, and difficult to get right without experience.

Health checkup certificate This comes from the Ministerio de Salud Pública (Department of Public Health), who will give you the certificate after checking your teeth, blood pressure, and giving you a brief exam. The certificate is called a carnet de salud. The immigration folks will send you to the facility on Calle Durazno, which is a zoo. You need to show up at 6 a.m. to get a number, and then come back at some time during the day for your appointment. In either case, be sure to tell them the physical is for residency so they give you the correct card. 2

If you or your spouse is retired from Uruguay, you only need to show your most recent check stub. It need not be notarized.

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Insider tip: Instead of going to the official Ministerio de Salud facility, try the SUAT Centro Diagnostico, or MEDILAB. Rather than the 6 a.m. drill described above, they take normal appointments and are uncrowded. (See contact information on page 128.) A copy of the entry/exit card This is the slip of paper you received when entering the country. Again, save a copy for yourself, just in case. Criminal history check For U.S. citizens, this will be sent from the Interpol office to Immigration automatically when it’s received from the U.S. In my experience, however, you need to contact the Interpol office so that you know when it has arrived, and then follow up with Immigration to make sure they have it. I went between the offices several times before Immigration found it among a pile of folders. Chances are that the Interpol clearance will be the last thing you’re waiting for, as the other items above are easily obtained. Once you know that Immigration has received it, take everything to the Immigration office and turn it in—or as they say, go en trámite. For non-U.S. citizens, this criminal history must come from your former country of residence, and must be legalized by the Uruguayan consulate in that country, certified by the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores in Montevideo, and then translated by a public translator (if it’s not in Spanish). This also applies to U.S. citizens who have been living in another country for the previous five years. Note: Once you’ve turned everything in, you are a residente en trámite. Step four: Get your temporary cédula

Your cédula will be your photo ID that identifies you as a resident of Uruguay, both during the time while you await permanent residency and thereafter. You will carry it in your wallet as you would a drivers’ license back home. It’s the standard form of ID in Uruguay, and its number will be your account number in many places where you do business. Once you have it, the passport that got you into Uruguay can go back into its normal safe storage location.

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To get your temporary cédula, you’ll need the following two documents: Certificado de llegada

When you become a residente en trámite, you should receive two certifications from Immigration attesting to the fact. One is addressed to Dirección Nacional de Identificación Civil (where you get your cédula) and the other is addressed to Dirección Nacional de Aduana, which is Customs. (Chapter Seven will explain how to use this.) The name of this form (in both cases) is a Certificado de Llegada, which means “certificate of arrival”. Certificado de nacimiento (birth certificate)

Although Immigration will tell you that no birth certificate is required to get a permanent resident’s visa, it is required to obtain your cédula. So if you arrived in Uruguay without a copy of your birth certificate—legalized by the Uruguayan consulate nearest your place of birth in the U.S.—then you’re in for a bit of work, as I was. Your birth certificate must be issued by your place of birth, and if you don’t have yours, most states now sell them to you online for a nominal fee. Once you’ve obtained an “original” birth certificate, it must be legalized by the Uruguayan consulate that has jurisdiction over the state or province that issued your birth certificate.

In order to be valid, the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores (address below) must then certify that it was in fact legalized by one of their consulates. This will take place in Montevideo.

Once you’ve done this, the birth certificate must be translated into Spanish by a certified public translator. You’ll find a list of public translators at the end of this chapter.

You then take your double-legalized birth certificate to the Registro de Extranjeros (address below). Here they will relieve you of your birth certificate and about $10. After about five days (at this time), you return to the same window and pick up your application, which now has a series of numbers on a tracking slip. You take these numbers to the front of the room, where you’ll fill out a request form, pay another $3, and take it upstairs to the notary office to collect your Uruguayan birth certificate while you wait. In this office, it is possible to get quicker service by requesting processing urgente. It’s about two bucks more, and will save you hours.

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Deliver both to DNIC

Take both documents (the certificado de llegada and the Uruguayan certificado de nacimiento) to the Dirección Nacional de Identificación Civil (DNIC), the people who issue cédulas. Use the office closest to your home for your convenience.

Since you’re a first-time cédula recipient, the normal same-day service at DNIC does not apply—but it should be ready in a couple of days. Again, for a few extra bucks you can get the urgente service, and save a lot of time. The cédula that you get will look identical to the permanent one you’ll get later, except that on the back it will say residente en trámite, and it will have an expiration date of around a year. (When you get the real one, the cédula number will not change.) Insider tip: I’d suggest bringing two copies of a legalized birth certificate with you to Uruguay, in case one gets lost. You don’t need to do all of the other incountry certifications, but at least you’ll have an extra one if you need it, without having to obtain one (and legalize it) back in your home country. Time passes…lots of time

Now you’re a temporary cédula-carrying residente en tramite, waiting for the slow-moving wheels of Uruguayan bureaucracy to turn. What do you do now? Unfortunately, there are no tricks to expediting the review and approval process, whether you have enlisted an immigration lawyer to see you through it, or are doing it yourself. But remember that your temporary cédula works just like your permanent one will, so there’s really no inconvenience. Unless the government decides to streamline the process or at least computerize it, you’ll not see an approved package in less than about nine months. Nag-nag-nag

It can however, take much longer than that.

With so many documents and review organizations involved, your package has numerous opportunities to get delayed. And when that happens, they normally don’t call. Your package could get buried in the “unresolved problems” drawer for eternity if you (or your immigration consultant) aren’t there from time to time checking on it.

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I personally made it a practice to visit Immigration at least every month to check on progress and ensure that they didn’t need my help in any way. Several times, there were questions with documents that I needed to answer, or issues I needed to resolve. Without this attention, the 12 months that my residency took could easily have turned into 15 or 16 months, or longer. If you can’t baby-sit your residency approval (or don’t want to), it may be prudent to seek help from an immigration consultant or attorney. But then you’d better check to make sure that they’re checking.

Insider tip: If you know you will need to leave the country three times during the coming year, just ask for a permiso de reingreso for three trips instead of one. It’s easier than returning later for additional permisos. You save additional trips to Immigration, and only have to pay once.

During this wait time, you will need a special ticket called a permiso de reingreso, or a “re-entry permission” when coming and going from Uruguay. This tells the people at the airport that you’re excused from normal tourist staytime restrictions. You can get this permiso at any immigration office, not just in Montevideo.

Step five: Final approval and final cédula Upon receiving notice from Immigration that your request for residency has been approved, go to see them in person. They’ll once again give you two certificados de llegada, as they did when you went en trámite. And, like last time, one will be addressed to Dirección Nacional de Identificación Civil, and the other will be for Dirección Nacional de Aduana (Customs). Take the one for Dirección Nacional de Identificación Civil to their office, and they’ll change your old temporary cédula for a permanent one. With expedited processing, you’ll not only go to the head of the line, but you’ll sometimes get same-day delivery of your cédula. Insider tip: You do not need the certificates for Dirección Nacional de Aduana if you are not importing household effects. Save yourself a few bucks and don’t ask for them. Your new permanent cédula is good for three years. During this time, there is no need to register or otherwise update your status.

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At the end of three years, it must be renewed. Here’s what you do: • Go to Immigration, and inform them that you need to renew your cédula. Take your passport with you. • Immigration will give you a new certificado de llegada, authorizing DNIC to give you a new cédula. • Go back to DNIC (where you got your first cédula) and they’ll take your money ($7), and give you a time to come back and get your new card, normally within three or four days.

Taking advantage of Immigration’s branch offices Not everyone is moving to Montevideo, and each deparmento (state) in Uruguay has a branch office of Dirección Nacional de Migración. If you live outside the department of Montevideo, using them can make the difference between a two-hour wait in Montevideo and a five-minute wait at the branch. I would recommend that you use the Montevideo office of Immigration until you are en trámite. Then, during the intervening year, use the branch office to check the status and do other business.

Immigration costs As of January 2012, the total cost everything you need to become a resident is just over $500, mostly paid in small payments for paperwork processing. For a complete list of charges, you can take a look at the Immigration website; www.dnm.minterior.gub.uy/tributos_tramites.php Aside from the immigration charges, there will be other incidental costs associated with the process. There’s a nominal fee for the medical exam, and a small fee for each rubber stamp or certificate you get from public agencies. There will also be costs associated with legalizations in the consulate and Interpol background checks (U.S. citizens), as well as fees for any documents required to be translated into Spanish by a public translator. Any fees paid to immigration consultants or attorneys will be separate.

Immigration consultants These consultants specialize in getting your residency. They know the ropes, and they know what works. Many people use the services of an immigration consultant, and they’re particularly helpful if you don’t speak Spanish, since the immigration agents do not speak English.

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Immigration consultants can be anything from an experienced translator to an escribano or attorney. Unlike immigration attorneys, there’s no pre-set qualification or license for consultants. Speak to the prospects before you decide who to go with, and you should also compare prices. Insider tip: Be careful when using expats who provide unlicensed immigration consultancy services. A couple of friends were recently dropped, when they encountered a minor hitch that the “consultant” didn’t want to bother with. They had to start over with a professional, which cost them time and money. Here are a couple of immigration consultants working in Montevideo: • Juan Fischer, Fischer and Schickendantz, Rincón 487, Piso 4, Montevideo 11000, Uruguay; tel. +598 2915-7468 ext. 130; cell +598 9992-5106; fax +598 2916-1352; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.fs.com.uy. They also have in-house certified translators and escribanos. • Peter F. Stross, Uruguayan Relocation Services; tel. +598 2709-9869; cell +598 (99) 600-455; e-mail: [email protected]; Skype: PeterStross.

Immigration attorney Federico Formento is an immigration attorney, which is what you need if you have an unusual situation, need a creative solution for meeting the requirements, or have a blip on your criminal history. Feel free to contact him if you have any questions. He is part of Fischer and Schickendantz, above. • Federico Formento; tel. +598 2915-7468 ext. 113; e-mail: [email protected].

Obtaining your second passport There are two ways to obtain a Uruguayan passport. One is under Law 16.340, the special retiree’s provision discussed earlier. In this case, you can get a passport (quickly), but it does not come with citizenship. The second way is to go through the normal citizenship or naturalization process. Uruguayan law allows you to apply for Uruguayan citizenship, and allows citizens to hold dual (or multiple) citizenship. There’s no need to give up any other citizenship or passport that you hold. Obtaining Uruguayan citizenship (and passport) will take you between three and five years (after you become a resident), depending on your personal situation.

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You might ask yourself why a U.S. or Canadian citizen would want a Uruguayan passport, given that their passports are much more flexible to travel with. Good question. Other than entering nearby Brazil without a visa, there are a few practical reasons. One is that some countries have cumulative limits on how long you can stay within their borders in a given year. If you alternate the use of passports you can double your stay time, which would be handy if you have a part-time home in such a country. Also, you can avoid “reciprocal fees” and visa requirements imposed on U.S. citizens in places like Chile and Brazil, among others. (These fees are imposed because the U.S. imposes similar fees and visa requirements on their citizens.) Some countries also waive their airport exit fees for their neighbors if you’re carrying their passport. More importantly however, is that the second citizenship serves as insurance. You have a second “home country” waiting for you, in case you ever want to take advantage of what it has to offer.

Immigration contact information • Dirección Nacional de Migración (DNM), 1513 Misiones, Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo; tel. +598 2916-0471; e-mail: [email protected]: website: www.dnm.minterior.gub.uy. • Dirección Nacional de Identificación Civil (DNIC), Rincón 665, Montevideo; tel. +598 2916-1535, ext. 37; website: www.minterior.gub.uy/webs/dnic/index.htm. • Interpol Office, Dirección Nacional de Información e Inteligencia, Maldonado 1109, corner Paraguay, Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-0683; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.interpol.int. • Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores (Foreign Relations Ministry), Calle Cuareim 1348, corner Colonia, Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-9142 or +598 2903-2065; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.mrree.gub.uy. • Dirección General del Registro del Estado Civil, Registro de Extranjeros (Registry of Foreigners), Calle Uruguay 933, corner Rio Branco, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-6114 or +598 2903-1376; e-mail: [email protected]. • Ministerio de Salud Pública (Department of Public Health), División de Clínicas Preventivas Durazno 1242 and Carlos Quijano, Montevideo; tel. +598 2900-2951 or +598 2902-9000 or +598 2901-7891.

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• SUAT Centro Diagnostico (Carne de Salud), Clinica del Estadio, Estadio Centenario, Tribuna America, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-7047.

Certified Public Translators • Doris L. Hernández, Traductora Pública y Escribana, Salt Lake casi Mar de Coral, Chalet “Siete Mares”, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4225-0380; cell +598 (99) 190-201; e-mail: [email protected]. • Rosina Del Pino, Certified Public Translator, Fischer and Schickendantz; e-mail: [email protected]. • Colegio de Traductores Públicos del Uruguay (Public Translators of Uruguay), Dirección: Colonia 892, Montevideo; tel. +598 2903-3130; website: www.colegiotraductores.org.uy. This is a national listing of Certified Public Translators.

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CHAPTER SEVEN Moving Your Household and Pets

As a new resident in Uruguay, you are entitled to bring in all of your household effects duty-free—a terrific benefit in a country that would otherwise have high import duties. Under the program, you may import your household effects after you formally apply for residency, up until the time you receive final approval, more than a year later. Oddly, you cannot import your things duty-free under this program after you receive final approval.

What you can bring with you I’ve researched the regulations for this extensively. I found a number of sources for the “rules” for importation of an expat’s household effects, and have also interviewed movers, private Customs agents, and the Customs supervisor in Montevideo. What I learned was that the rules are fairly simple, yet there is a lot of confusion out there as people apply their own interpretations.

Relocation assistance If you’re relocating to Uruguay, you’ll likely be interested in the services of CCM Soluciones, especially if you don’t speak Spanish. They are a relocation assistance company, who can help you with any settling-in chores that you’re facing…from hooking up your phone, to getting your driver’s license, to finding an elementary school for the kids. For more information, contact founder Andrea Cavallo at [email protected].

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Part of the confusion comes from the fact that Uruguayan Customs has different allowances for different categories of residency. So if you are coming as a diplomat, for example, you fall under different regulations than a retiree would; these are different yet again from those for a citizen or resident of Uruguay who is returning from abroad. The law says that “…those who have received residency are entitled to bring in, within six months, one time only, free of all Customs duties, the furniture and household effects of their dwelling, in quantities commensurate with their needs, as determined by the Customs authorities.” And in my own experience, this is exactly how it is applied. I found Customs to be quite reasonable, and as a resident, you should be able to bring virtually everything. Their main concern is not really how many used TV sets you have, but whether or not you’re abusing the system or bringing things in for resale. I’ll give you a couple of tips later on to make things go more smoothly.

The players in the moving process There are several people at work on your behalf when bringing shipments into Uruguay. You, of course, are the shipper. On your departure end, you’ll have a local moving agent who works with you on getting the entire move booked. He’s probably the one you made the original arrangements with, and is your primary point of contact. On the Uruguayan end, you’ll have the Uruguayan moving agent. This one works for the moving company who is completing your move in Uruguay, and is your primary authority when you have questions about Uruguayan regulations. He processes these moves every day for diplomats, expats, and business people, and knows how the system works. You can get his name before the move, from your local moving agent. A despachante is a private professional who specializes in import/export. He provides the point interface between various moving agents and the Customs agent. You, as the shipper, will normally not have contact with this person. I found mine by accident, having met him previously while researching another book. The Customs agent is a government employee who performs inspections and enforces Customs regulations. The public does not interface directly with this agent. (I was politely referred to a despachante on my third visit.)

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Listen to the moving agent You’ll get lots of advice about importation, but your Uruguayan moving agent is the person who really knows what gets through and what does not.

Importing your car to Uruguay I had my heart set on bringing my new Land Rover Defender from Ecuador, a prized possession that can’t be purchased in the U.S. and a car that costs more here in Uruguay than I’d paid for it in Ecuador. But the bottom line is that generally, you can’t bring your car. There are exceptions made for diplomats, tourists, and people who obtain residence under Law 16.340. (See the Chapter Six for details on this.) There are also occasional exceptions for antique or classic cars. But generally speaking, bringing a car is more trouble than it’s worth. Duties are steep and importation of a vehicle is never duty-free. Also, remember that cars are different here in South America than they are in the U.S. and Canada. The emissions requirements are different, and many of the parts are not interchangeable. If you buy a car in Uruguay, you’ll know you’re buying a vehicle the local mechanics know how to work on, and one that will have parts available when you need them.

Getting your things into the country The law can be confusing on exactly when you are authorized to bring things into the country. It says you must bring your things within six months of being granted residency. But most expats don’t want to wait that long, since actual permanent residency will likely take a year to obtain. (See Chapter Six for details.) This leaves you without your furniture for a long time, and can create lots of logistical problems. The ideal way to do it is to bring your shipment before you get permanent residency. Granted, you are not yet authorized to bring it duty-free, but that’s ok; Customs allows you to bring it anyway, as long as you provide a guarantee that you’ll pay any fees if for some reason you do not obtain residency. This is the normal, preferred method for bringing in household effects. Let’s take a look at how to provide that guarantee. Guaranteeing your shipment:

The amount of the guarantee is 100% of the declared value of the shipment. Your “declared” value is much less than what you paid for the items, and even

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less than the replacement cost. In my case, I calculated that the replacement cost of what I shipped (a four-bedroom household) was around $50,000. I insured the shipment for about $24,000, with each item carrying its own individual value on my inventory list. My declared value for Customs in Uruguay was just $12,000, on advice of my moving agent. There are three ways you can guarantee your shipment, and each has its advantages under certain situations: • Deposit the guarantee directly with Customs • Use an insurance policy to guarantee the shipment • Guarantee the shipment with a Certificate of Deposit (CD) in your name Let’s use my declared value of $12,000 to figure out the following examples: • Deposit with Customs If you deposit the money directly with Customs, you put it into a special government account maintained for this purpose. Once you’ve presented evidence of residency, they give it back to you. This method is simple. While it does tie up your money with no interest, it does not cost anything. • Insurance policy Purchasing an insurance policy is the method recommended by my movers, and I understand that it’s what many people do—although I don’t understand why. The insurance is purchased from Banco de Seguros del Estado (BSE), a government bank that provides insurance. To obtain the insurance, you must deposit 50% of the declared value in the bank, which is $6,000 in this example. Then the insurance premium costs 4% of the declared value, plus $20 commission to the insurance agent. This works out to $500. So this method ties up half the money ($6,000) pending your visa approval, and costs $500. • Guarantee with a CD Here you buy a Certificate of Deposit (CD) in your own name at the bank, with a guarantee from the bank that they will not let you cash it in without a release from Customs. This is the method I used. To provide the guarantee, the bank charges 0.2% per month of the amount guaranteed. So in the $12,000 example, you’d pay $288 for a one-year guarantee. But since the CD is in your name, you get interest. At a 2% interest rate, you’d

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earn $240 interest, so your net expense for this method is $48. It also ties up your $12,000 until you get your visa. (After I obtained my visa, I got my release from Customs within two days.) If I had it to do over again… Now that I have confidence in Uruguay’s processes and legal system, I’d save myself all the bank visits and just give the money to Customs. It’s easy, free, and the money is safe.

What action you need to take, and when First, you need to obtain the status of en trámite (in process) with Immigration. You’re not officially en trámite until you turn in all the prerequisite paperwork, including your Interpol results. Within 60 days of going en trámite, turn in the following documents, via your Uruguayan moving agent. This must happen BEFORE your shipment arrives. • A certificado de llegada (certificate of arrival), which is a document certifying the day you officially came to Uruguay. You get this from Immigration, and it will specifically state that you are a residente en trámite: both on the form and on a huge red stamp that’s placed across the form. (Verify that it does before you leave the office, or you’ll be coming back to get it corrected, as I did.) This certificate should reflect the most recent date that you entered the country. If not, ask for a new one. • A copy of your passport. It need not be notarized. • A signed Customs declaration (Declaración Jurada) formally requesting authorization to bring in your shipment. Your moving agent will give you this form. • The Bill of Lading is also required, but your Uruguayan moving agent will supply this. • The guarantee that you’ve provided against any possible fees. • I also turned in an itemized list of everything in my shipment (by box number) and my total declared value, even though it was not required. I did this because my list was specific, and if Customs had any question about what was in a given box, it could be answered by looking at my list if they chose to do so. Now, having turned everything in, your shipment must arrive within six months of the date shown on your certificado de llegada.

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When your goods arrive Once your container has arrived in Montevideo, Customs will perform their inspections required for release. They may not even open the container (or they may go through everything) at their discretion. In Uruguay, I don’t consider it necessary to be present during the inspection, and I’ve never heard any complaints about Customs officials robbing people’s shipments, as happens in some other countries. Occasionally, at the discretion of the Customs agent, the Customs inspection can be conducted at your house instead of at the port. Either way, Customs tells me that you should have your container released within five working days of its arrival. In my case, it was three. Once your container has cleared Customs, the mover will advise you that it’s ready, put it on a truck and bring it to your house for unpacking. When booking the move, be sure to have unpacking included in the contract. In my experience, every mover I have ever used tried to get out of the unpacking (including moves within the U.S.) so have the contract ready to show them when they try to leave.

Collect your guarantee from Customs Your permanent residency must be approved in order to claim your financial guarantee with Customs, regardless of the method you chose to guarantee payment. Remember it’s your residency that earns you the right to the duty-free importation, so you’ll need proof of residency to get your money back. Once you’ve been granted permanent residency you’ll be given two forms by Immigration. One is the authorization that allows you to get your cédula (ID card) and the other is for Customs, to notify them of your residency. Get your cédula first…then take the Customs form along with a copy of your cédula to your Uruguayan moving agent, and he’ll get your money released within a day or so.

Tips for an event-free customs clearance Here are a few items that should make your move into Uruguay a bit easier. Don’t let your goods leave for Uruguay until your Interpol results are in. Remember the sequence and timing:

• Immigration receives your Interpol results (see Chapter Six) • Go en trámite at Immigration • Obtain your certificado de llegada

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• Turn in your documents to Customs within 60 days of the date on the certificado • Your container arrives If you let your things leave for Uruguay before you get the Interpol results back and your Interpol results are delayed, then your shipment may arrive before you have a certificado de llegada and authorization from Customs. Then you’ll need legal help, and fast. Uruguayans are generally flexible and accommodating with people who are trying to follow the rules, so I don’t expect any severe consequences if a deadline is missed. But I’d avoid putting it to the test.

Watch for this potential trap Once you’ve been granted your final, legal residency, you fall under different rules for importation of household effects. Instead of the rules for new residents, you are now considered a returning Uruguayan for importation purposes. As such, the rules in this chapter do not apply. If you find yourself in this situation, get legal help immediately if you want to preserve your duty-free status.

Don’t push your luck with new appliances I’d avoid bringing new, “in the box” appliances. I don’t believe it’s specifically forbidden by law, but moving companies will advise you against it. If you have brand-new appliances, as I did, at least take the price tags off and the packing materials out of them, so they could pass for used in case you get a fussy inspector.

Be ready for some hidden costs There are fees imposed by the port for handling, which are NOT normally included in your moving quote. This is because the fees vary move-by-move, and aren’t firm until your container is released. Your mover will bill you for these after the move is complete. In my case, the fees added up to just over $300.

Prepare yourself for insurance claims If you insured your shipment (many people do not), then promptly report any missing or broken items. If you made an inventory with a price established for each item (and gave it to the mover when you bought the insurance) then you shouldn’t have any trouble. After all, you paid the premium based on those individual item values.

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On the other hand, if you bought a $25,000 insurance policy without itemizing the shipment with prices for each piece, then be prepared to negotiate for what you get…item by item.

Bringing your pets into Uruguay Uruguay is a pet-friendly country, where animals are generally well-treated and few strays are seen. Also, you’ll find a good variety of qualified vets and kennels when you get here. To bring your pet to Uruguay, the process is relatively simple and there is no quarantine period once you arrive with the animal. You do not need to be a resident to bring your pet. The animal must be accompanied by a USDA-endorsed health certificate, even if you don’t live in the U.S. When in doubt, use the International Health Certificate USDA-APHIS 7001 form. It is officially known as the United States Interstate and International Certificate of Health Examination for Small Animals. Most vets will have the appropriate form. The health certificate must indicate proof of both rabies vaccination and Praziquantel treatment (the Praziquantel treatment is for dogs only). It must include the name and address of the owner, and the breed, sex, birth date, size (i.e. small, medium or large) and any particular markings of the animal. The health certificate must also indicate the country of origin and destination. Rabies vaccination is required for all dogs and cats over three months of age. It must be given more than 30 days and less than one year before the arrival date in the country. This vaccination must be listed on the health certificate and a copy of the rabies certificate included.

Insider tip: Two-year rabies shots are unusual in South America, so if your pet has a two-year shot, make sure its expiration is stated on the form.

All dogs entering Uruguay must also be treated for the tapeworm (Echinococcus granulosus) with Praziquantel, more than 72 hours and less than 30 days before the arrival date in Uruguay. This treatment must be listed on the health certificate. The health certificate must state that the animal was examined within 10 days of departure and presented no clinical signs of diseases associated with that species. Legalization of this certificate by the Uruguayan consulate is not required.

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Getting your pets back to the U.S. A general certificate of health is not required to bring a dog or cats into the U.S., according to the latest information available from the Centers for Disease Control (CDC). But check with your destination state, as some U.S. states require them. Dogs and cats are subject to inspection when they enter the U.S., and they may be denied entry if they have evidence of an infectious disease (or even look sick), pending examination by a vet at the owner’s expense. Proof of Rabies vaccination is technically not required for dogs coming from Uruguay, since Uruguay is currently declared a rabies-free country. But it may be required by your airline in order to ship the animal, so I’d advise getting the certificate anyway if you can. If not, be sure to check www.cdc.gov to make sure that Uruguay is still on the exempt list. If you end up needing a Proof of Rabies certificate, it must show that they were vaccinated more than 30 days before entry into the U.S. This includes assistance dogs. Proof of Rabies is not required for cats, unless it’s required by your destination state. Remember though, your airline may require it. Unvaccinated dogs (such as puppies too young to be vaccinated) may enter, provided the owner signs a confinement agreement that will remain in effect until the dog is adequately protected. Animals other than dogs and cats will usually require a USDA import permit. See www.aphis.usda.gov for details.

Traveling with pets If you are planning to bring your cat or dog on a flight with you, you must mention this when making your reservation. Also, animal travel is handled on a first-come, first-served basis on the day of the flight, so get to the check-in desk early to be sure you get your pet on the flight. Some airlines (such as American Airlines) accept only cats and dogs for travel, while others, like Continental, accept a wider range of animals. Check with the airline to be sure you can take an animal such as a pet rabbit. Be advised that the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) requires that the animal be at least eight weeks old to travel on an aircraft.

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Sedation Although there has always been a lot of debate over whether or not it’s best to sedate an animal for air travel, you should know that the American Veterinary Medical Association does not advise sedation, because of the respiratory health risk to the animal at high altitudes (which are encountered even in pressurized aircraft). Pets should only be sedated when specifically recommended and prescribed by a veterinarian. Typically, it’s the owner who needs sedation when shipping an animal, not the pet.

Traveling in the cabin If your pet’s carrier is within the limits for hand luggage that fits under the seat in front of you, you can generally take them in the cabin. Usually only one animal is permitted per flight, but exceptions may be made for animals less than six months old of the same species. All airlines have restrictions on how many pets can travel in the cabin (American Airlines allows seven animals in the cabin), so reserve their place well ahead of time.

Temperature restrictions When traveling in the hold as checked baggage or cargo, there are restrictions on the shipment of animals for both high and low ground temperatures, at the departure and arrival cities, as well as any stopover point on the trip. (These do not apply to animals traveling in the cabin.) A high-end restriction of 85° F and a low restriction of 45° F are the norm. The airline may allow a vet to waive the low temperature restriction if the animal is accustomed to low temperatures, but the high temperature restriction cannot be waived. Additionally, further temperature restrictions (and with some airlines, outright summertime bans) apply to shortnosed dogs such as these: • Boston Terrier • Boxer • English/French Bulldog • King Charles Spaniel • Lhasa Apso

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• Pug • Shar-Pei • Shih Tzu To avoid these restrictions, try booking stopovers in the early morning or at night when the temperatures may be lower, or booking a nonstop flight where possible. If you want your pet to have water during the trip, it’s a good idea to freeze it in their dish to prevent it from spilling out during the loading process. The USDA requires that the pet be offered water and food within four hours of the flight, and some airlines will require that you sign a statement attesting to this.

Flying with working dogs Working dogs—such as guide dogs for the blind, signal dogs for the hard-ofhearing, and assistance dogs for mobility-impaired persons—travel with all U.S. airlines free of charge, and are allowed to accompany their owners into the cabin. They usually do not count against the overall cabin limit on animals. Note: See Appendix A for a list of veterinarians in Uruguay. These are vets with whom we have experience.

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CHAPTER EIGHT Cost of Living in Uruguay

The cost of living in Uruguay will vary depending on a number of factors, such as where you live, how you live, whether or not you need a car, and the performance of the dollar. Let’s take a look at some of the factors that will make up your cost of living in Uruguay.

The ups and downs of the U.S. dollar Back in 2004, some short-sighted writer penned these words about Uruguay: “…and best of all, it costs less to live here than in Ecuador!” That writer of course, was me: writing when the exchange rate was about 29 pesos per U.S. dollar. As I write this today, the exchange rate is 20 pesos per dollar (and I’ve seen it get close to 19 pesos per dollar). And while Uruguay is still not bad, it’s by no means cheaper than Ecuador. This is a risk that expats run in countries that do not use the U.S. dollar, and it’s one you’ll need to keep in mind. In Uruguay, you’ll have ups and downs, depending on the relative performance of the two currencies.

A sample budget if you’re renting a house Here’s an idea of what you can expect to spend if you are renting a house, as opposed to buying. These prices are based on properties in the Costa de Oro, Uruguay’s least expensive seashore area. Mercedes would be even lower… Montevideo or Punta del Este, higher.

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Renting a house Pesos USD Notes UYU 15,000 $750 HOA fees for houses are only UYU 0 $0 found in gated communities.

Item Rent HOA fees Property taxes

UYU 0

$0

Taxes normally paid by the owner

Transportation

UYU 1,140

$57

Taxis, buses etc. Assumes you have no car.

Gas

UYU 833

$42

Used for heating and cooking. Less if you’re not there in winter. Assumes AC and heat. Less if you don’t use AC or are gone for winter.

Electricity

UYU 2,900

$145

Water Telephone Internet Cable TV

UYU 305 UYU 240 UYU 620 UYU 655

$15 $12 $31 $33

Household help

UYU 0

$0

Food Entertainment Total

UYU 7,200 UYU 8,000 UYU 36,893

$360 $400 $ 1,845

Allow $350 if a full-time main is required.

As you can see, the monthly budget for renters is not all that high. For apartment rental, assume an extra $160 to $200 per month for HOA fees. If you own a home, it will be somewhat lower. We’ll talk about some additional budget considerations below.

Sample budgets if you own your home Remember, your numbers may be higher. The following section will give some additional considerations. This chart is based on a home in Atlántida.

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Item Rent HOA fees Property taxes Transportation

Pesos UYU 0 UYU 0 UYU 1,250 UYU 1,140

Gas

UYU 833

Electricity

UYU 2,900

Water Telephone Internet Cable TV Household help Food Entertainment Total

UYU 305 UYU 240 UYU 620 UYU 655 UYU 0 UYU 7,200 UYU 8,000 UYU 23,143

Owning a house USD Notes $0 $0 HOA applies only to gated communities $63 Average Altantida home rate $57 Taxis, buses etc. Assumes you have no car. Used for heating and cooking. Less if you’re $42 not there in winter. Assumes AC and heat. Less if you don’t use $145 AC or are gone for winter. $15 $12 $31 $33 $0 Allow $350 if a full-time main is required. $360 $400 $1,158

Finally, here’s a sample budget assuming that you own an apartment in Montevideo. Item Rent HOA fees Property taxes Transportation Gas Electricity Water Telephone Internet Cable TV Household help Food Entertainment Total

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Owning an apartment in Montevideo Pesos USD Notes UYU 0 $0 UYU 3,200 $160 UYU 955 $48 UYU 1,250 $63 Taxis, buses etc. Assumes you have no car. Used for heating and cooking. Less if you’re UYU 200 $10 not there in winter. Assumes AC and heat. Less if you don’t use UYU 1,050 $53 AC or are gone for winter. UYU 0 $0 Included on HOA fees UYU 255 $13 UYU 620 $31 UYU 655 $33 UYU 0 $0 Allow $350 if a full-time main is required. UYU 7,200 $360 UYU 8,000 $400 UYU 23,385 $1,171

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Additional cost of living factors to consider

Owning a car If you own a car, add $281 per month or so for a modest amount of driving. You would be able to deduct most of your “transportation” budget from the charts above, which assumes you don’t have a car (for more on the cost of owning a car, see page 154).

Television and Internet The cable TV cost I used was for basic cable. If you want lots of Englishlanguage programing (besides movies), you’ll pay more. My Internet cost is for 2.3 megabit ADSL service. Faster service will be somewhat more expensive, although Internet service is fairly cheap here.

Travel If you’re planning on trips to the U.S. (which are not cheap), be sure to add that into the budget...or if you’re planning on sending your kids or grandkids money to come down.

Telephone costs The telephone cost is based on my own usage, which is light. If you make a lot of calls within Uruguay, this will cost more (although all calls within the country are local calls). Also, I use my computer to make overseas calls over the Internet, so I don’t pay any long-distance charges. If you plan on making long-distance calls from your land line, factor that in.

Health insurance and medical If you plan on buying health insurance in Uruguay (rather than bringing your own or using the public system), count on an additional $51 per month as a minimum. Remember to allow for any long-term medications that you are using.

Taxes Taxes can vary. Punta del Este has the highest property taxes in Uruguay, and I pay over $1,900 per year, while in Montevideo, I pay around $500. A 3,000-square-foot house in Salto would cost about $1,200, based on numbers I got from an owner there.

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The price of owning a car Here’s what it costs me to own and operate my SUV in Uruguay. The numbers I quote are monthly costs, in both pesos and dollars. Item Car registration Insurance Maintenance Fuel Total

Owning a car in Uruguay Pesos USD Notes UYU 1,556 $78 Based on a $23,000 SUV UYU 1,500 $75 Liability coverage on a $23,000 SUV UYU 760 $38 UYU 1,800 $90 UYU 5,616 $281

As you can see, owning a car adds significantly to the bottom line of your budget. Diesel fuel is $6.52 per gallon, while gasoline is $6.71 per gallon. (That’s 34.4 pesos and 35.4 pesos per liter, respectively.) There are lots of diesel cars here, and those fuel prices explain why. With our turbo diesel, the mileage is super. Living as I do, in a somewhat-rural area outside Punta del Este, makes it difficult to do without a car since there’s little I can walk to except for the beach and a small neighborhood grocery. But if you live in the city, you can get by easily without one. The public transportation is cheap and plentiful, including taxis and a good bus system. There’s even a ferry to Argentina. When you need a car for traveling around and seeing the country, it’s easy enough to rent one for as long as you need. Cities where you can easily do without a car could include Montevideo, Salto, Mercedes, Paysandú, Colonia, and Punta del Este (if you lived downtown on the Peninsula), and perhaps Atlántida. Each of these cities has a walkable downtown, buses and taxis, and easily available car rentals.

How to save on the monthly budget Here are a few ways to save money in Uruguay if you’re living on a budget.

Avoid the imports Imported items are expensive in Uruguay, as import duties are high. Sometimes you can’t avoid buying imported items, but when you can, it’s worth your while. In the grocery store, for example, some imported foods will cost three times what the local version costs.

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Plan your use of the car Make sure you combine errands to cut down on car trips—gasoline in Uruguay is expensive by U.S. and Canadian standards (although cheap by European standards). Many North Americans are becoming accustomed to high fuel prices, so this may be something you already do. Many expats in Uruguay make use of the excellent public transportation system. Buses are prompt and drivers are courteous.

Buy Uruguayan wines! The wines of Uruguay are a great deal, and even with the dollar’s unfavorable exchange rate, you can still get an excellent red for less than $15. Chilean wines of the same quality will be twice the price, and California wines even more. I suppose that if you were on a tight budget, you could skip the wines altogether. Personally, I’d rather give up other things, like gasoline or food…

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CHAPTER NINE Health Care For All

Quality health care is readily available throughout Uruguay. As a resident, you are eligible to participate in the national health care system (which includes a network of free clinics), as well as higher-end private hospital associations. A brief list of hospitals (with their contact information) is in Appendix A.

Uruguay’s public health care system In the public system the free clinics can be slow and crowded. However, if you have no health insurance and can’t afford to buy it in Uruguay, then these clinics will be a welcome option. Every town has access, and I’m told by friends that they do a good job. This system assures that no one is without quality medical care. Uruguayan friends tell me that the quality of the free clinics is best in the Interior, while they’re a low-end option in Montevideo.

Private health care system The private health care system is efficient, well-equipped, and inexpensive. They operate facilities that are more similar to what North Americans would be used to. The private health care industry consists of a number of independently operated associations. These associations vary in size from a single hospital to a network of hospitals, clinics, and doctors’ offices. Normally you’ll select a facility near you, and become a socio (member). Your monthly premium entitles you to use of their facilities, ambulance service, pharmacy, and specialists in accordance with the plan that you select. Some will accept Blue Cross and other foreign health plans. Typically, whatever hospital you join will pay for emergency coverage at another facility if you need care when you’re away from home.

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The most popular hospital among English-speaking expats, diplomats, and many rich Uruguayans is British Hospital in Montevideo. Everyone seems to agree that they are the top of the line in hospitals here. They even make house calls in Montevideo, and have English-speaking doctors. In Punta del Este, La Asistencial is well known, with a network of hospitals throughout the department of Maldonado. Another highly-rated association is Mautone.

The cost of health care There are a wide range of costs for medical services in Uruguay. In this section, I’ll give you examples of my own, from La Asistencial in Punta del Este. Plans at La Asistencial start at $52.50 per month (their rates are not agedependent). This includes: • Hospitalization in a semi-private room • All inpatient medications • Nationwide emergency coverage • International coverage when traveling • General practitioner and specialist visits with co-payment • Outpatient medicine at a 25% discount (off of Uruguay’s generally low prices) Their co-payment schedule is as follows: • Doctor’s appointment: $4

• Specialist appointment: $7.50 • Emergency room: $15 For $73 per month, they’ll throw in all medications with a $5.60 co-payment, and one doctor visit per month free of charge. The best plan (called the Gold Plan) is $141 per month, which includes all of the foregoing benefits plus private hospital room coverage, unlimited free doctor and specialist visits, unlimited ambulance service, and guaranteed specialist visits within 72 hours. This plan has a flat $5.60 co-payment for medicines if you’re over 50.

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Age limits and insurance alternatives After 60 years of age, it becomes difficult to obtain a new membership in these private hospitals (existing members are ok). Some places will accept you for an increased premium, and some will not accept you at all. The public institutions, however, are still available at any age. Also, La Asistencial accepts you at any age, provided you pass the physical... and their premiums are not based on age, either. If you are over 60 and have no health insurance—and you’re counting on obtaining insurance in Uruguay—make sure you confirm its availability ahead of time. Remember, Medicare (for U.S. citizens) is not available outside the U.S. As an alternative, there are some private insurance carriers who do provide coverage to older people living abroad. I believe that HTH Worldwide has one of the best packages available. They accept new applications up until the age of 75, depending on your medical history. Call them in the U.S on (888) 243-2358 for plan details and eligibility, or visit the HTH website (www.hthtravelinsurance.com/ glCitizens_plans.cfm). You’ll see two plans there at this time. The Global Citizen includes coverage in the U.S., and the Global Citizen Expat policy does not. The latter is 40% to 50% cheaper.

For more on health care overseas… For even more health care information, the editors at International Living have put together a special report, called Slash Your Health Care Costs: The World’s Top 7 Destinations for High-Quality, Good-Value Care. And since you recently purchased the Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual, you can get it for only $63.20, a 20% discount off the $79 list price. It shows you where you can retire to cut your current health care costs by 80%…countries where you could get health insurance for a fraction of what you’re paying now. Need elective surgery? Find U.S. Board-Certified, English-speaking doctors and surgeons at much lower prices overseas…For more information, see https://orders.internationalliving.com/120SSYHC5/U120N2U2.

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CHAPTER TEN Learning the Tricks of the Uruguayan Culture Greetings People in Uruguay are polite and friendly, and greetings are a bit warmer than you’d expect in North America, but normal in much of Latin America. The primary way to greet someone is with a warm, firm handshake. Among friends or people you know well, however, women generally exchange a kiss on the cheek, as do men and women. Men shake hands or share a hug, and often will exchange a kiss on the cheek. Verbal greetings depend on the time of day or situation. Hola is common for a casual greeting at any time. Buen día (rather than buenos días) is normal for people you don’t know quite as well, with buenas tardes being used in the afternoon and buenas noches at night. At any time, you’ll hear como andas, which means “how’s it going”. In cities people do not generally greet strangers when passing on the street, while in rural areas they are more likely to do so. At a social function it is normal to greet and say goodbye to every member of a group individually. A casual wave and a “Hi everybody” or “Good night everybody” is not acceptable, as much as we North Americans like its efficiency. Be ready to dole out kisses and handshakes to everyone. Do not launch into a conversation or a business transaction (such as in a store) without first extending a greeting.

Excuse me? When you’re passing by someone in a situation where you’d say “excuse me” in English, use con permiso, which means “with permission”. It’s often shortened to just permiso.

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You also use con permiso when entering someone’s home (even though they just told you to “come in”) and often when crossing from one part of their home to another…such as from the living areas to the bedroom wing. Uruguayans treat women with the respect that they had in the U.S. back in the 1950s. So men should hold doors for women, allow them to pass through first, order first in restaurants, etc.

Punctuality Make sure you arrive on time for a business meeting. Five to 10 minutes late is tolerated but if you arrive any later it may be considered disrespectful. For social gatherings, arrival time is less important. If someone invites you to their home at 9 p.m., it means around 9 p.m., and it is fine to arrive up to half an hour or so later. Make sure, however, that you NEVER arrive ahead of time.

Conflict Most Uruguayans try to avoid uncomfortable situations in both their personal and professional lives. Conflict and combative behavior are unusual. The direct, somewhat-confrontational approach that is often appreciated in the American business environment would be considered rude in Uruguay.

Gift giving There are no specific rules for gift giving in Uruguay. Generally, any item is much appreciated. Giving gifts to business executives is not required, but can be a nice gesture. Small items with a company logo (for an initial visit) are appreciated. Gifts are not required from a dinner guest, but most Uruguayans usually take a bottle of wine, flowers, or candy when invited for dinner at someone’s home. Uruguayans really go to a lot of trouble and preparation when they invite friends over for dinner, so you should respond in kind when returning invitations. They will expect an organized gathering rather than an informal get together.

Coffee time! When people get together for “coffee”, it is much like being invited for tea in the UK. It’s customary to serve coffee and tea, as well as an assortment of small sandwiches or cakes and pastries. At least an item or two is typically home-made, in my experience. Coffee is usually strong, and in small cups. Coffee usually takes place around 5 p.m. 160

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Dress In general, Uruguayans are fairly conservative in dress (except for swimwear), and the general standards from North America and Europe will work here as well. In formal business situations, men should wear a suit and a tie. In Punta del Este and other resort areas, however, it’s just the opposite. In summertime, it’s anything but formal. Beach or casual attire is the norm. Skimpy beachwear is acceptable in Uruguay, and more prevalent on the most popular beaches. I’m told that Uruguayans can sometimes recognize North Americans by their frumpy swimsuits…swimsuits that might be deemed racy in parts of the U.S.

Restaurants In a restaurant, always let women be seated first. Typically the waiter will take their order and serve them first. Never order before a woman has had the chance to order, except when she asks for more time. It is normal for the patron to select his own table when entering a restaurant, although the host or waiter will suggest one if you look lost. The North American practice of needing the waiter’s permission to take a given table (unless it’s marked “reserved”) would be very unusual and considered rude. Believe me, after a few years in South America you’ll bristle when a U.S. waiter tries to tell you where you’re allowed to sit. Be sure to ask for the check when you’re ready to pay. It is generally impolite for a waiter to bring the check unless you’ve asked for it. Many a foreigner has sat for an hour waiting for the check, while the waiter stood by waiting to be asked to bring it. Say, “La cuenta, por favor” when you’re ready to pay up. Many nicer restaurants will offer you a complimentary after-dinner drink when you’re finished with dessert. The most common is probably Limoncello, due to the heavy Italian influence. (The drink is usually offered after you’ve asked for the check…and they’re sure you weren’t going to order one.)

When to eat Uruguayans start with a light breakfast and have lunch sometime between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. Restaurants normally open for dinner at 8 p.m. (some earlier) but few people go out to eat before 10 p.m. (In Punta del Este, the early-bird special ends at 10 p.m.) Most everyone has a coffee around 5 p.m., and the cafés fill up with people stopping to enjoy a cappuccino and a pastry.

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Business breakfasts are common when a foreigner is involved. Business lunches are usually held between 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. Dinner gatherings are generally reserved for family and friends.

The spike In more-casual restaurants, there’s another way that the bill may be presented. They’ll have a short spike on the table (like a two-inch nail mounted on a round base), on which they place small register receipts for everything you order. By the end of the meal, you may have four or five receipts impaled on this “spike”. At the end of the meal, there’s no need to ask for the bill…you just pull the receipts off the spike, and add them up (or ask the waiter to add them for you). You can either hand the receipts and the money to the waiter, or pay at a register.

Tipping Tipping is normal in a restaurant, and should be about 10% to 12% of the bill. The tip is not included in the bill. Taxi drivers are not tipped, but service station attendants are. I usually give them 20 pesos or so, regardless of what I spent. Bellhops are normally tipped, and I think 20 to 40 pesos is about right, depending on how much they’re carrying.

The parking guys…and gals Throughout Uruguay, you’ll see men and women who are attending parked cars along the city streets. Normally they wear some sort of reflective vest and an ID badge, but sometimes they don’t. These people don’t get paid, and only receive tips from motorists. It’s customary to give them a tip, like 5 to 20 pesos, depending on the time you were there. They are there to assist you with parking your car and also to keep an eye on it while you’re gone.

Personal titles In much of Latin America, titles are important. So you’d use “Doctor,” “Engineer,” etc. when addressing people of those professions or someone with a PhD or JD. In Uruguay, I don’t see this as much as I do in the more-Spanish countries, and you don’t need to make any special effort to find out someone’s title in order to avoid being impolite. I hear “Doctor” used for MDs, but I’ve never heard Ingeniero or Arquitecto (Engineer or Architect) used to address someone in conversation.

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Uruguayan women will usually keep their surname when they marry, and sometimes add “de” and their husband’s name to their own name. For example: If Mary Pérez married John Acosta, she would be known as Mary Pérez de Acosta, but more commonly Mary Pérez.

Telephone If you need to telephone someone, it is generally acceptable to call after 9 a.m. and before 9:30 p.m. When you answer the phone, hola is most commonly used, while ciao is mostoften used when hanging up.

Smoking Since 2006, smoking has been banned in public places, so you cannot smoke in restaurants, bars, or workplaces. Smoking, however, remains pretty popular, and many restaurants maintain their outdoor café all year long to accommodate smokers. Don’t plan on smoking in people’s homes unless the owner smokes or invites you to do so.

Antique cars

©Lee Harrison

Throughout Uruguay, you’ll see antique cars—especially outside Montevideo and Punta del Este. Some of these cars are wonderfully restored classic beauties. But more frequently, they’re old cars that have been in use as someone’s vehicle since they were new—and held together by the diligent efforts of their owners through the years.

Antique cars are a common sight in Uruguay

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I had expected to see cars from the 50s and 60s, but was surprised at the number from the 40s, 30s, and even the 20s.

The jug on the car When a car, boat or other items is for sale by the highway, it’s customary to place a jug or bottle on it in lieu of a “for sale” sign.

Music There are two sides to the music scene. The one I find annoying is the habit of playing American music from the 80s. And it’s not good 80s music: it’s what I call drivel. If you’d like to hear Rod Stewart doing remakes of Barry Manilow, or a Madonna sound-alike doing Bob Marley, you’re likely to find it here. On the other hand, the tango music tradition is a true national treasure. Also, Uruguay has jazz and classical stations—a rarity in South America—as well as terrific music from around the world, including places like Ireland, Israel, and Japan. For a taste of some of Uruguay’s traditional music, see this video, which is accompanied by a slideshow of some great photos of old Montevideo: www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkfzK_nX-QM.

Bikes, scooters, and motorcycles These are the main mode of transportation in Uruguay, partly due to the price of gasoline and diesel fuel. At first it looks odd to see 15-year-old girls on motorcycles, but after a while you’ll notice that they’re also used by old men, old women and everyone in between—as well as families. On several occasions, I’ve seen a family of four on a motorbike—drinking mate as they ride. I’ll talk more about mate later.

The parrillada This is one thing that any true meat-eater must try when visiting Uruguay. Many parrillas (from “grill”, in Spanish) are quite large—maybe six square feet— and can grill an amazing variety of meats. When ordered, you’ll generally get between five and seven types of meat brought sizzling to your table, including steaks, chicken, veal, and sausages. While the term parrilla means “grill”, the term parrillada means “grilled”, and often is used to describe the restaurant or the food, but not the grill itself.

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The red wines of Uruguay (especially Tannat) are great, and a fantastic buy, so make sure you try a bottle with your parrillada.

The parrillada is probably the most popular form of restaurant in Uruguay, and you’ll see them all over. Also, virtually every home has a parrilla.

©Nazareen Heazle

On ordering my first parrillada, among all the attractive offerings I also received what looked like some sort of long intestine, which appeared to be filled with fat. After gagging down a token piece, it went to a grateful dog waiting outside the door.

A typical parrilla, located in Montevideo’s Mercado del Puerto

Thanks to the Italians The strongest cultural influence in Uruguay seems to be Italian, and the Italian immigrants have brought a lot of customs to the Uruguayan culture. For example, many restaurants only serve gnocchi on the 29th of the month (legend says that if you have enough left to make gnocchi at the end of the month, you’ve had a good month). The opera tradition is popular, and Italian restaurants abound. Virtually every restaurant has pasta on the menu, no matter what type of restaurant it is. Also, you can always expect to find cappuccino and espresso.

Take a number Uruguayans are orderly and polite people, and jostling to maintain one’s place in line would be against their nature. So just about anywhere that people are waiting in line—from the copy store to the bank—you’ll find a number dispenser. Just take a number, have a seat, and relax until your number is called.

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Prostitution and gambling As with almost every country in Latin America, both of these activities are legal. And, also like most of Latin America, they’re quite unremarkable to the people who live here. Casino gambling has been around for a long time, and the Uruguayan government itself even operates casinos in most every major town, in competition with independently owned casinos. Gambling is not as fascinating as it is in the U.S., since it’s legal all over. While prostitution is legal, it’s unusual to see women soliciting openly. I haven’t seen any in the city, although I have seen young men or old women handing out flyers on their behalf. In rural and wooded areas, you may see young ladies standing here and there along the road as if they were waiting for a bus.

Crime Violent crime is very unusual in Uruguay, as are sex crimes. This is not to say that there is no crime, however. In some of the notoriously bad sectors of Montevideo, for example, robberies are fairly common against the unaware. But you can take comfort in the fact that all you’re likely to lose is the money or valuables you’re carrying—you won’t be killed to eliminate a witness, raped, beaten for fun, or the victim of a drive-by shooting.

Club de Remeros In English, this roughly means “rowing club”, which is appropriate for these clubs frequently found in the towns along Uruguay’s rivers. But while they are in fact rowing clubs, they also offer a lot more. The Club de Remeros in Salto, for example, has a pool, a swim team, gym, sauna, a football team and even a chorus. Perhaps we’d call it an athletic club, on a grand scale. Salto’s club costs $26 per month.

National pastimes Candombe is a drum-based musical form of Uruguay, and you’ll see the drummers frequently parading on streets around the country, particularly Montevideo, where it originated in the early 1800s. Actually, you’ll hear the Candombe processions long before you see them, as there can be as many as 20 drummers in a single procession. Candombe originated among the 19th-century African population in Montevideo and is based on Bantu African drumming with some European influence and touches of tango.

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Tango, of course, is today more popular than ever. Not only the dance, but the music as well. Mate is a strong national tradition in Uruguay. All around the country you’ll see people of all ages sipping this herbal tea from a hollowed gourd through a silver or stainless straw.

The mate tradition This traditional drink of Uruguay, Argentina, and Paraguay is a very mild stimulant and is consumed by Uruguayans day and night, wherever they happen to be. People drink it from a leather-encased gourd, using a silver or monel straw. Tradition dictates that you hold the gourd in one hand, and carry your hot water thermos in the crook of the same elbow, sipping as you walk about. In groups of two or more, there should be only one gourd in circulation, which is passed to the left. My first order of business in Uruguay was to buy mate gourds and straws, along with a thermos for hot water and some of the mate herb from a local grocery. This was important, since I was assured that large men of Irish descent can blend in perfectly with the locals, provided they’re carrying a mate gourd.

While a good cup of coffee is sometimes hard to find in the Interior, plenty of businesses on the street have free hot water for your mate thermos.

©iStockphoto.com/Petro Teslenko

My first impression was that the herbal tea tasted like it was made from cigarette ashes. If you buy the flavored style of the herb, then it tastes like, well, cigarette ashes laced with orange peel. Undaunted, I kept at it. The taste actually grew on me after a couple of weeks, such that I looked forward to filling my gourd each morning.

Mate gourds filled with mate herb

Football (soccer) is another national passion, as well as a sport at which the country excels. Uruguay has won two international championships (World Cups) and two Olympic medals. They surprised the world by making it to the semifinals in 2010; surpassing both Brazil and Argentina. If you have any friends from the U.K., they’ll appreciate being reminded that Uruguay has won more World Cups than England has. Chapter Ten: Learning the Tricks of the Uruguayan Culture

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Holidays and festivals in Uruguay Date January 1 January 6 Carnaval Semana Santa April 19 May 1 May 18 June 19 July 18 August 24 August 25 October 12 November 2 December 25

Occasion New Year’s Day Children’s Day/Epiphany Week prior to beginning of Lent Easter Week (also called Semana de turismo) Landing Day of the 33 Orientales Labor Day Battle of Las Piedras Birthday of Artigas (national hero) Constitution Day Noche de Nostalgia Independence Day Discovery of America Day All Soul’s Day Christmas Day

La Semana Santa or Semana del turismo (Easter week) is a big vacation period in Uruguay. Many people use this time for their annual vacation, and very little gets done around the country.

Noche de Nostalgia On August 24th, 1978, the owners of a local radio station organized a dance party featuring old rock and roll hits. The creators came up with the idea to take advantage of the night before the Independence Day holiday on August 25th. The idea during the first years of these new parties was to go out and listen to old American and British hits from the 60s and 70s. The music spans the era from the Beatles and Simon and Garfunkel, to Cat Stevens, Dire Straits, and Queen. From the beginning of August, radio stations start playing these old hits, and do so until the night of August 24th. Today, Noche de Nostalgia is an official holiday in Uruguay, and according to many sources, the most popular holiday. It appears to be the rough equivalent of New Year’s Eve in the U.S., and virtually everyone—of all ages— goes out to party.

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What you won’t like about Uruguay Answering e-mails Many business and government agencies are really bad at answering e-mails. Either they don’t answer promptly, or more often, they don’t answer at all.

Tacky websites Often when you go to a Latin American-designed website, the first thing you see is the dreaded word, cargando. This means that you’ll wait while the site loads up your computer with some unwanted multimedia presentation so you can listen to chirping birds, the sound of crashing waves or tacky music while you look for property prices. (They apparently don’t realize that many Americans are surfing on the sly at work, and will probably close their browser when the noise starts.) The next dreaded word is consultar, which appears on their property list instead of a price. Translated, this means “e-mail us, and we’ll decide how much we’re going to charge for that property”. That is, if they answer the e-mail.

Answering e-mails In Uruguay, you may find that many business, government agencies, and service providers are really bad at answering e-mails. Either they don’t answer promptly, or more often, they don’t answer at all. While this is unusual in countries like the U.S. and Canada, it is just part of life here… albeit a frustrating one for expats used to prompt replies from service providers in their home countries. You must be proactive in following up with any query or service that’s being provided to you. If, for example, you’ve hired an attorney to help with your visa application, be sure to follow up with him/her on a regular basis by telephone. Most won’t do anything unless they are pushed/ reminded. And remember, this is not an indication of how good or bad they are at what they do, it’s merely a cultural thing.

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Central heat Winter is nothing new in Uruguay; I’m sure it’s been here for many years. So it still surprises me that they never quite got the hang of efficient central heating systems. I looked at only two houses (of hundreds) that had a real central heating system. I could understand this if it got cool once every few years, but Uruguay has a couple of months every year when most of us need heat. Fortunately, you can get a comfortable system without spending much money.

Hot water tanks Every house I looked at had hot water. But not one in ten had a hot water system that didn’t look jury-rigged. I’ve seen hot water tanks hanging in closets, in shower stalls, and bolted to the kitchen ceiling. Would you feel comfortable having a 220-volt appliance, filled with hundreds of pounds of hot water, hanging in your shower? If so, you’re braver than I am…

What you’ll love about Uruguay Honesty Uruguay has an honest culture, where personal integrity, truthfulness, and fairness are important. People are prompt for meetings, workers usually show up when promised, and I’ve never been short-changed…and I’ve lived here since 2006.

Infrastructure After a few years of living in the Ecuadorian Andes, I still marvel at the fast, modern roads and highways (with free mechanical assistance). There are plenty of telephone lines available when you need them, drinkable water country-wide, good cell service, Internet, and cable TV.

Marked prices One of my early “good impressions” about Uruguay was the presence of price tags in shops. It was quite a relief after years of having shop-owners establish their prices based on what they thought I could afford.

Personal safety While Uruguay is certainly not crime-free, violent crime is very rare. And in many areas (such as where I live) you’ll enjoy un-fenced yards, windows without bars, and safe beaches.

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Trees, trees, trees An unknown civil planner from years gone by had the vision to line Uruguay’s streets and many of its highways with trees. Sometimes they’re eucalyptus trees, sometimes palms, or most often, sycamores. But unlike most of the world’s cities, Uruguay’s population centers have maintained the trees over the years. Throughout the country today, most city streets are lined with tall sycamores, whose leaves often meet over the middle of the road to form a green tunnel. It provides a refreshing, shady environment. And here and there throughout the country, you’ll still see tree-lined highways, with a now-huge tree planted every 30 feet on both sides of the road.

Lack of stress Uruguay has a truly laid-back and non-confrontational culture. People have seemingly-unlimited patience and are very slow to get upset. Virtually every Latin American country claims to be laid back, but Uruguay is the only country where I’ve found it to be a cultural norm.

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CHAPTER ELEVEN Insider’s Tips for Uruguay

Here are a number of hints that will help to get you off to a good start when you arrive in Uruguay.

Opening a bank account There are no special requirements for foreign nationals to open a bank account with most banks, and even non-residents will find it easy to open one. Accounts can be held in either local or foreign currencies. When opening an account at the government’s Banco de la República, I only needed to show my passport and fill out an application to get a dollar-based savings account with Internet access and an ATM card (with no transaction fee). It was not so easy in some of the private banks, who also asked for reference letters and proof of address. If you see a bank here in which you have an account back home, don’t get your hopes up: you can’t use it as a branch office. Citibank, for example, will not even accept a deposit to my account in New York, due to U.S. banking laws. Some banks in Uruguay will not open accounts for U.S. citizens or require an IRS W8 withholding form to be filled out. I was personally turned down for an account at HSBC when the manager saw on the back of my Uruguayan ID card that I was a U.S. citizen.

Getting a driver’s license After arrival in Uruguay, you may drive on your valid license until it expires. Within 10 days prior to its expiration, you must go to the municipality where you live and “renew” it for a Uruguayan license. There is no test required, aside from an eye exam and blood pressure, which they do on the spot.

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If your license expires however, you’ll need to start over from scratch: a brief written test, an interview, and the driving test. This will require that you read a pamphlet and speak Spanish. Either way you get it, your license is usually good for 10 years.

If it’s priced in dollars, pay in dollars U.S. dollars are accepted all over Uruguay for a variety of items. Real estate is priced in dollars country-wide. But also cars, furniture, cameras, appliances, home improvement projects, and plenty of other bigger-ticket items are often priced in dollars. Make sure you pay for these items in dollars whenever you can. If you pay in pesos, you’ll actually pay the exchange rate penalty twice: once when you bought the pesos, and again to change them back when you use them to pay for a dollar-priced item. I saw one shop owner recently who offered a 10% discount for his items, which were priced in dollars. But then he imposed an exchange rate that was 20% worse than the going rate if you paid in pesos.

Insider tip: To keep track of the dollar/peso exchange rate, see www.xe.com.

Paying your bills People do not pay bills by mail in Uruguay, although you will receive them by mail or by courier. You’ve got three choices. You can pay at the office of whoever sent the bill, have it deducted directly from your bank account by direct debit, or pay at a bill-paying center. The bill-paying centers are operated by the government, and you can pay almost any bill there, as well as buy tickets for events. They are called Abitab, Red Pago, and the Correos del Uruguay (the post office). They operate under the umbrella of the Central Bank, and between them there are over 1,000 payment centers. They’re quick and easy to use, and on practically every corner. The direct debit is the easiest, but the payment centers are great when the biller does not support direct debit.

Home modifications and BPS BPS stands for Banco de Previsión Social, and it’s part of Uruguay’s social security system. The program lays a trap for anyone who’s making improvements on their home. That’s because BPS imposes an additional tax on home remodeling and additions. Contractors virtually never pay this tax on their own, and they won’t mention it to you, either. Chapter Eleven: Insider’s Tips for Uruguay

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But when you try to sell your home, an inspector will come out to your house and assess any changes since last time it was inspected. You can easily pay thousands of dollars of back taxes and fines, which must be cleared prior to selling your property. My attorney recommends that you always require a contractor (in writing) to provide proof that the job has been registered against your property identification number (called padron) and that all required BPS payments have been paid.

Phones, cable, and Internet ANTEL is the government-owned phone provider, and just about all landline phones come from them. There are plenty of land lines and you should get one hooked up in a few days. Most homes come with a landline, and you can transfer it to your name by taking your deed to any ANTEL office. You no longer need to assume the existing ANTEL contract via an escribano, although not all escribanos have heard this yet. They also offer cellular service under the name ANCEL. Other cellular providers are Claro and Movistar (formerly Bell South). You can get cell-phone service in a matter of minutes in any one of a thousand cell-phone shops. You can buy the phones outright and use a prepaid card, or sign up for a plan. Incoming calls are not charged in Uruguay. There are a number of cable TV companies operating in Uruguay, depending on where you live. Look carefully when you sign up if you want Englishlanguage programming. Most movies are in English anyway—even on Spanishlanguage stations—but sports and news will not be. You’ll usually need more than the basic package to get things like ESPN, CNN, or BBC. Plans start at about $30 per month for some English programming. DirecTV (via satellite) is another option, and quite common. Most Internet service comes from ANTEL, although there are other providers. ANTEL offers ADSL in a variety of speeds and lots of pricing options. My ADSL (1.2 megabit) costs $23. You can go all the way up to a 155 Megabit fiber-optic line if you like. Other ISPs include Movistar, TelMex, and Dedicado, who offers wireless delivery where it’s available. If you are an Internet subscriber with ANTEL, you can add a mobile broadband account for about $6 per month. Internet cafés cost about $1 per hour, and wireless is now fairly common in town squares, coffee shops, and restaurants. Most Internet cafés will allow you to plug in your laptop.

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New phone number formats in Uruguay Until recently, Uruguayan phone numbers could have five, six, or seven digits depending on the area. But as of 2010, all land-line phones in Uruguay now have 8-digit numbers, and all calls nationwide are local…there are no area codes. (No changes to cell phone numbers.) Within Uruguay, you just dial the 8-digit number, country-wide. From abroad, you dial your international access code, the country code, plus the 8-digit number. For example, from the U.S. you’d dial 011 (598) 1234-5678, from the UK you’d dial, 00 (598) 1234-5678. Existing numbers will be converted using the following scheme: • The former 7-digit numbers (only Montevideo) will get “2” prefix (its former area code). • The former 6-digit numbers will have a prefix of their former two-digit area code. • The former 5-digit numbers will have a prefix of “4”, plus their former two-digit area code. The four-digit speed-dial numbers in Montevideo still work in Montevideo, but get a “2” prefix if you’re dialing from the Interior.

Registration of cell phones If you’re planning on obtaining local service for your existing cell phone in Uruguay, make sure you register your phone with Customs at the airport. Do this in the Customs office. It’s a simple form, and will just take you a minute. You can use your cell phone in roaming mode, without registering it in Uruguay. But if you want to buy a phone card and use local service (instead of paying $3 per minute to Verizon) then make sure you do the registration. If the phone is blocked for exclusive use by your U.S. company, most shops will unblock it for you in a matter of minutes. If you bring a smartphone and use it in roaming mode, be careful…roam charges can easily run into hundreds of dollars per week, if you don’t have a special plan. Best to turn roaming off, to be sure you’re not surprised by a big bill.

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What you won’t find at the grocery store If you picture the selection on the store shelves back in the 1960s, that’s about what you can expect in Uruguay today. The staggering variety of foods and produce in U.S. stores is just not available. Things like Campbell’s soup, sour cream, buttermilk, cranberries, Crisco, Ritz crackers, and corn tortillas won’t be found easily. What’s more, many U.S. standard items are just not part of the Uruguayan diet. Peanut butter can be found in a gourmet shop, imported from the U.S. or Germany. You can buy just about any foreign item you want—or an acceptable substitute—if you’re willing to pay for imported items. But you will find fresh-made pasta just about anywhere you go (dried pasta in a box is a distant second choice for Uruguayans), dozens of options for olive oil, Italian cheeses, still-warm baguettes and other bread loaves, delicious pastries, and a large variety of meat tarts. Coffee still holds third place to mate and tea here. It’s now possible to find whole toasted coffee beans, but make sure you look for the kind that says “tostado” or “natural” or you’ll get coffee that’s been roasted in sugar. Like any country, eating what everyone else eats is very reasonable, while maintaining your brand-name habits from back home can get expensive.

Finding outlets, bolts, wire, and other hardware There is no Home Depot in Uruguay, or anything similar. This means that when you need building or home supplies it will often be necessary to go to several stores to find everything. Most things will be available, though, in the end. In Uruguay a hardware store is called a ferretería, while a building or construction supply is called a barraca. High quality American-made tools are expensive if you can find them, so bring those along if you plan on using them.

The hairdresser The offerings here are pretty standard and affordable, and you’ll find everything you need. The sophistication of the salon—and what they offer—will reflect the type of neighborhood that they’re in. Prices are generally posted, and appointments are very rare.

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Insider tip: A good idea is to get a good travel phrase book, and memorize what you want done before you go. Some expats make a “cheatsheet” with all of the necessary terms for the doctor, dentist, barber, etc., so they can study up on infrequently used phrases before they need to use them.

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Tipping It’s rare to see a restaurant bill in Uruguay with the tip included, so plan on leaving about 10% to 12% of the bill as a propino. Taxi drivers are not tipped, but service station attendants are. Give them 20 pesos, regardless of what you spend. Bellhops are normally tipped, and 20 to 40 pesos is about right, depending on how much they’re carrying.

Clothing Most clothing items will be available in local shops at fairly reasonable prices, but don’t expect the quality-per-price that you’re used to in the States. Also, tailor shops are widespread and affordable. But brand-name clothing imported from Europe or the U.S. is expensive. Most clothing sales are targeted to lower-quality items. My advice? Get good quality clothing at competitive prices during your trips to the U.S.

Tips on appliances This is another item you should bring along if you’re coming as a resident. There are lots of appliance stores, but the appliances are basic and small, and many are of cheap quality. The huge, high-quality washers, dryers, and dishwashers that we’re used to in North America won’t be found easily in Uruguay, and if you find them they’ll cost twice as much. Most likely, your appliances from home will be 110-volt—Uruguay’s electricity supply is 220-volt. So you’ll need a transformer for those 110-volt appliances. I’ve used them around the house, and they work great: just plug the transformer into the wall, and then plug your appliance into the transformer. Here’s where you can buy them: • CERBA, Calle Paysandu 1284 and Jaguarol, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-0537. Remember that most modern electronics will run on either 110 or 220 volts. Your computer, printer, monitor, and even stereo equipment probably won’t need a transformer. Check the nameplate on the appliance to be sure. The plug pattern is two round prongs, of about 1/8” in diameter (see below). The spacing and prong length are about the same as an American plug. Every hardware store in Uruguay has the adaptors, as many appliances are sold here with American plugs.

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At the post office The postal system works fairly well in Uruguay, although it’s not particularly fast. Generally, there is no routine mail delivery or pickup—since few people use the post office—so when something comes to you, the post office will run it out to your house on a motorcycle and hand-deliver it. I use the Uruguayan postal system to get most of my mail. But for important things—irreplaceable documents and such—I’d stick with DHL or FedEx. But don’t expect it fast…the DHL “third-day delivery” can take two weeks outside of Montevideo.

Public transportation Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive in Montevideo, and they all use meters. Outside Montevideo, the availability of taxis depends on the size of the town you’re in. Taxis in Punta del Este cost a bit more than in Montevideo, but at least you’ll get a Mercedes… City buses cost about 75 cents at today’s exchange rates, and they’re a good way to get around town.

Cross-country and international buses are clean, modern, and comfortable. They’re a great way to get around the country, and the ride from Montevideo to Punta del Este (a two-hour journey) costs about $7.25.

Hotels vs. motels As you’re cruising around the country, keep in mind that hotels are for spending the night, and motels are for having sex—as is the case throughout most of Latin America. Customers drive in via one entrance and leave by another. Once inside, their car is concealed as each room usually has a garage. Rates are by the hour. They’re sometimes called hotels of Alta Rotatividad or high rotation.

Nude beaches On remote stretches of beach, you may occasionally catch sight of a nude sunbather or bather. Rarely, it’s possible to see them even in more-populated areas since it’s not illegal. But Uruguay also has two “official” nude beaches: Playa Sirenita in the department of Rocha, and Playa Chihuahua near Punta del Este. What’s odd is that they identify them with a sign, of the type you’d use to mark the entrance to a national park. They’re called a “Playa Naturista”.

The beach at Chihuahua is well over a mile long and even has a “gay men” area. But of course you needn’t be gay to go. Since the regular naturist beach is mostly for couples and families, this beach is where any unaccompanied male will likely end up.

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CHAPTER TWELVE Your Tax Guide to Uruguay

Uruguay continues to be a solid, offshore haven, with little tax burden on foreign residents. Uruguay has personal income tax, but it only applies to Uruguayan-source income, including rental income of properties inside Uruguay. There is also a flat tax of 12% imposed on interest and dividend income from abroad, which may apply to both Uruguayans and foreign residents living in Uruguay, although you can exclude any tax paid to other countries. Otherwise, income from abroad is not taxed, even if the foreign-source money is received by a bank in Uruguay. Uruguay has strong laws on tax secrecy as well as banking secrecy. The country does not exchange tax or bank account information with the U.S. or Canada.

Types of taxes in Uruguay Let’s take a look at some of the specific taxes that may apply to you.

Value Added Tax (VAT) This tax is known throughout the Spanish-speaking world as the Impuesto al Valor Agregado, or IVA, and is basically a sales tax—a rather large sales tax, something common throughout Latin America. It’s the prime contributor to the tax revenue of countries that do not have a North American-style income tax system. The tax is always referred to by its Spanish acronym—IVA—and pronounced “EE vah”. The basic rate for IVA in Uruguay is 22% for most goods, and 10% for certain basic goods. It applies to the importation (with exceptions) and sale of goods and services within the country.

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In addition to IVA, there is a luxury tax (IMESI) included in the cost of some specific goods, such as automobiles, alcoholic beverages, gasoline, and tobacco. Like most of the world’s countries—and unlike the U.S.—this sales tax is included in the marked price of an item; taxes are not added at the register. And, if you are a business, you offset IVA paid on goods and services with IVA charged to customers.

Property taxes The municipal property tax (known as contribución inmobiliaria) runs from 0.25% to 1% of the market value of the property. On average, it is about 0.5% of the value of the property (and less, in the case of rural properties). There is also a school tax, known as impuesto a la enseñanza primaria. The rate is approximately 0.1% to 0.2% of the market value. This tax does not apply to rural properties. Additionally, certain municipalities are empowered to apply other minor taxes on properties, such as impuestos de puerta, for public street-cleaning and the like. These usually don’t add up to more than $5 or $10 per month, if they exist at all.

Real estate transfer taxes The transfer of real estate is taxed at a rate of 2% of the assessed value of the property, paid by both parties in a transaction. Often, the “assessed value” is equal to half the market value of a property, or less. Uruguay does not tax the sale (partial or total) of bearer shares in a company that owns real estate. (See Chapter Five—on the property purchase process—for other costs of real estate transactions.)

Income tax for individuals Personal Income Tax on wages or fees as an independent worker (known as IRPF) is only paid on income generated within Uruguay, on the amount over approximately $12,000 per year. The tax rate ranges from 10% to 25%, and certain expenses are deductible. The IRPF is paid by Uruguayan fiscal residents and foreign residents who are in Uruguay more than 183 days per year. Additionally, dividend and interest income generated abroad is taxed at a flat rate of 12%. (Other types of income have no tax). If you paid tax on this income abroad, you can exclude that tax from Uruguay’s tax, up to 100%.

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This tax took effect in 2011, and it’s hard to see how it could be enforced for American and Canadian citizens, since Uruguay does not exchange tax information with these countries. Also, each American citizen is a unique tax case, given the mix of taxable/non-taxable dividends, and one’s individual tax rate. Foreign non-residents (who spend less than 183 days per year in Uruguay) must pay a rate of 12% of their Uruguayan-source income. Like residents, you pay nothing on income from outside Uruguay, except as noted above.

Rental income tax for individuals Individuals who rent out their property must pay a flat income tax of 12% on their proceeds. This is not in addition to the personal income tax above. Rental income is not included as “income” for purposes of calculating the Personal Income Tax for individuals.

Income tax for corporations If you set up a business in Uruguay, under a corporate structure, the corporate income tax (known as IRAE) is levied on corporate profits (income minus deductible expenses) generated within the country, regardless of your nationality. This includes branches or subsidiaries of foreign companies operating in Uruguay. The tax is assessed on the income of 12-month periods, at a flat rate of 25%. When distributing dividends in a corporation, that distribution is taxed at 7%. To calculate the tax, the carry-over of losses is permitted for a period of up to five years. There are special rules that establish exemptions on certain activities. Small businesses that incorporate under sole proprietorships or LLCs may take advantage of a reduced income tax structure, which turns the effective corporate income tax rate to under 20%. For rental income from a property owned by a corporation, the rate is 25% if the corporation is Uruguayan and 12% if it’s foreign.

Asset tax Known as impuesto al patrimonio, this tax can apply in certain circumstances to both corporations and individuals, based on their net worth. Your net worth, for purposes of the asset tax, is restricted to the sum of your holdings within Uruguay—primarily, your property. In the case of individuals, the first $105,000 for a single person ($210,000 for a couple) is not taxed. The valuation of your property is based on the “assessed”

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value rather than the market value. In essence, you are unlikely to have to pay any asset tax if you own a property bought at less than $150,000 (for individuals) or $300,000 (for couples). This tax is significant only with assets of over $500,000 of market value. The example at the end of this chapter will illustrate this point. But even in that case, the tax is almost irrelevant, since it is being gradually phased out (for individuals), every year, according to a 2007 law. By 2017, it will be reduced to 0.1%.

Capital gains tax The capital gains tax rate is 12% for individuals, 12% for foreign corporations, and 25% for Uruguayan corporations.

Social security taxes Social security will apply to you only if you are working for wages in Uruguay or are an employer. Both the employer and the employee must pay social security taxes. The employer’s contribution is 12.125% of the salary, while the employee’s contribution ranges between 19% and 24%.

Promotional investment tax breaks Many activities (industry, agricultural activities, tourism, and services) can be eligible for special tax incentives and even direct subsidies, specifically created to promote investments in those areas. The most significant promotional regimes are:

Tourism Investments in infrastructure for the tourist industry are eligible for generous tax exemptions. This applies to hotels, resorts, and various other types of establishments. The tax benefits include: • A total exemption from IVA on equipment and materials imported to build or equip the establishment. • Exemption of corporate income tax. • Exemption of capital/assets tax for a period of 10 years.

Industrial promotion At an investor’s request, the government can declare a project of “national interest” if it fulfills certain requirements. These are typically related to the expansion of production facilities and export-oriented industries.

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Examples include industries such as fishing, agro-industries, dairy products, and mining, to name a few. This incentive provides for: • Exemption of import tariffs and other taxes on the import of capital goods. • Exemption of capital/assets tax. • Partial exemption of corporate income tax. • Special funds that grant generous credit schemes.

Free trade zones Uruguay has established several free trade zones throughout the country. These areas are used to store, commercialize, and assemble goods; either for their introduction into Uruguay or for export to other countries. Also, free zones can apply to financial services and various other types of services. Services provided to clients overseas from a company set up in a free zone are tax free (they face no income tax). For this reason, many global companies, such as Sabre, RCI, Tata, and Merryl Lynch have set up large global and regional offices in Uruguay’s main free zone, Zonamerica (website: www.zonamerica.com). Setting up a free zone company is simple and inexpensive. Goods shipped from outside Uruguay to a free zone are not treated as imports, and therefore do not pay taxes or import tariffs. Users of free zones are exempt from all national taxes, except for social security taxes on local labor.

Uruguay’s offshore financial vehicles Uruguay maintains a reputation as an efficient and trustworthy offshore jurisdiction, mainly through two instruments: offshore companies and free trade zone companies. Uruguay’s offshore vehicle is the standard Sociedad Anonima (SA), which is untaxed on its offshore income and offshore assets. The only tax that a Uruguayan SA pays (when used solely for offshore purposes) is a fixed tax, ICOSA, which amounts to the equivalent of approximately $420 per year. The SA is a stock corporation, and it is simple to manage and run. It may have one or many owners (shareholders), of any origin; one or many officers of any origin; and its shares may be nominative or bearer-type. There are no public records or requirements to disclose or register the shareholders of the company, even in the case of nominative-share companies.

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SAs are easy and inexpensive to incorporate, and usually investors purchase a readily incorporated (but not-yet-activated) SA, which can be made available and used immediately. The SA’s sole responsibilities are to: • Have at least one officer or director who is registered with the tax authorities and the Public Commerce Registry. • File tax forms twice a year. • Close its corporate books once a year. • Pay the taxes that apply to the company.

Take a look at an example tax situation Let’s say that a couple buys a $300,000 property in Montevideo and they rent it out for $20,000 for the year. Here’s what they’d pay:

Asset tax The fiscal (assessed) value is lower than the market value: let’s assume $230,000. The first $210,000 is untaxed for a couple. So the tax applies only to the $20,000 that was above the $210,000 exemption. Since the rate is 0.7% for the first taxable $210,000, the tax would be $140.

Property taxes The municipal property tax would be about $1,300, while the school tax would be around $300 per year, giving a total of approximately $1,600. Remember, these are average values and can vary with the municipality.

Rental income tax Here you’d be allowed to deduct your taxes from the $20,000 income you received, leaving a net taxable income of $18,400 (after subtracting the $1,300 property tax and the $300 school tax). At a rate of 12%, you would owe $2,200 on your rental income.

Taxes paid to your home country Remember, you may have tax obligations to your home country that apply regardless of what you are paying in Uruguay. U.S. citizens, for example, owe tax on their worldwide income no matter where they live. Canadians, on the other hand, do not.

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As an American expat, you will be entitled to some tax breaks. For more information and help on this topic contact our U.S. tax expert Nick Hodges and his team: • NCH Tax & Wealth Advisors, 1661 E. Chapman Ave., #2A, Fullerton, CA 92831; tel. (800) 748-4159; e-mail: [email protected]; websites: www.nchwealth.com and www.expatcfo.com. Nick has also written a book on filing your tax returns as an American overseas. The specially commissioned for IL guide on taxes for expats: Expat Taxes Made Easy: The Complete Guide to US and Foreign Taxes for the American Overseas will walk you through that much-dreaded process of filing your U.S. tax returns when you live overseas. For more details, see https://orders.internationalliving.com/120SEGTA5/U120N2U1/index.htm?pageNumber=2.

Got a tax question? If so, the last thing you should do is write to me or the IL editors. If the answer to your question is not here, you need an in-country expert. This chapter was prepared with input from Juan Federico Fischer, managing partner of Fischer & Schickendantz, one of Uruguay’s leading law firms and international investment consultants. The information is current as of January, 2012. If you have any questions on taxes in Uruguay, you can write to Juan directly and he’ll be glad to answer them for you. Here’s his contact information: • Juan Federico Fischer, Managing Partner, Fischer & Schickendantz, Rincon 487, Piso 4, Montevideo, Uruguay; tel. +598 2915-7468, ext. 130; fax +598 2916-1352; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.fs.com.uy.

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CHAPTER THIRTEEN Doing Business in Uruguay

Uruguay offers a positive investment climate Uruguay is strategically located between South America’s two largest economies, Brazil and Argentina. This, coupled with Uruguay’s stable economy and institutions, makes for a favorable climate for foreign investors who wish to do business in Uruguay or in neighboring countries through Uruguay. According Juan Federico Fischer—managing partner of Fischer and Schickendantz, one of Uruguay’s top foreign investment consultant firms—the country’s business environment can be summarized by the following basic principles:

Equal treatment for foreign and local investors Uruguayan law does not discriminate between local and foreign investors. Foreign investors do not face any restrictions and do not require government authorization to do business within the country. Investors can freely develop industries, engage in trade activities, and obtain access to local banks and financial markets. Foreign investors are often eligible for promotional tax incentives.

No restrictions on the amount of foreign capital used in an investment Investors can own the stock of a Uruguayan company in any proportion, up to 100%. Other forms of corporate structures can be easily formed, such as joint ventures, and associations of different kinds.

Free entrance and repatriation of capital and dividends Freedom of capital repatriation and profit remittances abroad are guaranteed. This can be done at any time, regardless of when the initial investment was made.

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Favorable tax treatment on imports of capital equipment Imports of capital equipment are eligible for favorable tax incentives. Import duties and other taxes are not levied in many cases.

Freedom of price controls and exchange controls The Uruguayan economy has no exchange restrictions. Transactions can be carried out in any currency, which can be freely exchanged locally. There are no administrative price controls.

Freedom of choice regarding nationality when hiring Uruguayan law allows local and foreign investors to hire foreign labor, with only a few minor restrictions having to do with the proportion of foreign workers.

Privacy for investors Investors are guaranteed anonymity by way of operating through bearer-stock corporations. The Uruguayan banking system has one of the world’s strictest banking secrecy laws, which further assures privacy.

An expanding market through the MERCOSUR common market Uruguay is a founding member of MERCOSUR (Mercado Común del Sur), the Southern Cone Common Market. MERCOSUR is composed of Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay, and Paraguay as full members; and Chile, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru as associate members. (Venezuela signed a membership agreement in June 2006, but this has yet to be ratified by the parliament of Paraguay). Montevideo is the seat of MERCOSUR’s administration. This trade agreement provides investors in Uruguay with access to an expanded market of 250 million consumers.

A solid and independent judicial system Respect and enforcement of the law (including commercial law) is guaranteed by an independent judiciary. Contracts can be regulated by the law of choice of the parties, and arbitration clauses can be agreed upon.

Always a good place to work Uruguay was the first country in the world to have a minimum wage for farm workers, and also the first to enforce an eight-hour workday, over 70 years ago. Slavery has never been permitted.

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Legal protection of private property and copyright Private property, patents, and copyrights are expressly protected by law. In fact, in 2006, the office of the U.S. Trade Representative removed Uruguay from their watch list of countries with inadequate copyright protection.

An important financial center Uruguay is the region’s most important financial center. The banking sector consists of 11 private banks and one government-owned bank. The private banks are all totally or partially owned by leading American or European financial institutions. All banks are controlled by the Central Bank of Uruguay, which has a strict policy regarding the authorization of new banks and banking secrecy.

Absence of worldwide income tax Corporate income tax is levied only on Uruguayan income, so foreign corporations face no taxes on income generated abroad.

Financial structures for off-shore investments Uruguay is South America’s only off-shore low-tax jurisdiction, and offers a variety of offshore financial structures to help manage your business or lower your tax burden.

Availability of political-risk insurance Political-risk insurance is available through an existing agreement between the Uruguayan government and the U.S. Overseas Private Investment Corporation. The insurance covers all risks except general credit risk, and claims are subject to international arbitration panels.

Ease of doing business Generally speaking, doing business is easier in Uruguay than in either Brazil or Argentina, according to an annual study performed by the World Bank3. In a remarkable turnaround since 2010, Uruguay is now one of the easiest places to start up a business, too. It’s one of the top countries in all of Latin American and the Caribbean, according to the same World Bank survey for 2012. Starting up a business requires only seven days in Uruguay, compared to a regional average of 54 days…and 119 days in Brazil.

3 See Doing Business 2012, www.doingbusiness.org/rankings.

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Business resources for further information For assistance from the U.S. commercial service with respect to starting a business in Uruguay (particularly with import/export), you may wish to contact the economic/commercial counselor at the U.S. Embassy: Economic/Commercial Counselor, American Embassy, Montevideo, tel. +598 2418-7777; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.buyusa.gov; embassy website: http://uruguay.usembassy.gov. Uruguay–U.S. Chamber of Commerce (AMCHAM): The Chamber of Commerce Uruguay-USA, founded in 1934, is an independent, non-profit organization whose main objective is the promotion of trade and investment between the United States and Uruguay. At present, the Chamber has more than 100 members representing the American business presence in Uruguay. Check out their website www.ccuruguayusa.com, or contact them at [email protected] for more information: Country trade or industry associations:

Here are a few helpful references within Uruguay. • Chamber of Industries; website: www.ciu.com.uy. Representing the industrial sector, they often represent industrial entities, from the largest companies to the smallest workshops, in their dealings with the government. • Chamber of Commerce and Services; website: www.cncs.com.uy. Focused mainly on the service sector, they provide assistance to those seeking to do business in Uruguay. The site can be viewed in English, but the translations are pretty bad. If you read Spanish, you’ll find that version much more understandable. • Chamber of Agro-Industries; website: www.camaramercantil.com.uy. Studies and promotes the production, commerce, industry and export of livestock and agricultural products. An English version is available. • Union of Exporters; website: www.uruguayexporta.com. Their job is to facilitate imports and exports in Uruguay. This website is in Spanish only at this time. • Uruguayan IT Chamber; website: www.cuti.org.uy. This trade group may be of interest if you want to enter the information technology business in Uruguay. This site is in Spanish.

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Uruguayan government ministries:

These sites are government websites for the departments indicated. • Ministry of Industry, Energy, and Mining; website: www.miem.gub.uy. This site is a good source for the current happenings in the legislature having to do with industry, energy, and mining. • Ministry of Economy and Finance; website: www.mef.gub.uy. I’ve used this site mostly for economic and tax information. • Ministry of Tourism; website: www.turismo.gub.uy. A good site for general Uruguay information, as well as information on the tourism industry and some good links. This site is also available in English and Portuguese. • Ministry of Transport and Public Works; website: www.mtop.gub.uy. This is a good site if you’re interested in undertaking a public works project in Uruguay, and will help you learn the “lay of the land”. • Ministry of Agriculture and Fishing; website: www.mgap.gub.uy. These guys need the help of a web designer, but there is a wealth of good information and current-issue coverage for those contemplating farming or commercial fishing in Uruguay. • Office of the President of Uruguay; website: www.presidencia.gub.uy. This site is best for news items and for use as a portal to other government and business sites. • Parliament; website: www.parlamento.gub.uy. I’ve used this site a number of times to research the laws around importation and immigration. I’ve found Uruguay’s practice of having their laws, proclamations, and parliamentary actions online to be very convenient…and transparent.

Market research:

To view market research reports produced by the U.S. Commercial Service, take a look at www.export.gov/mrktresearch and click on “Market Research Library.” Please note that these reports are only available to students, researchers, and U.S. companies. Registration to the site is required, but free of charge.

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CHAPTER FOURTEEN Commercial Property Guide

Many people who come to Uruguay are looking for more than a retirement home or a vacation getaway. Often, the commercial property market is where they’ll focus their efforts. If you’re thinking of ranching, farming, starting a resort business, or operating a hotel, restaurant, or B&B, you may be among them.

Buy your commercial property using the best vehicle There are several options available when you buy a commercial property in Uruguay…or any property for that matter. You can hold it in your own name, in the name of a Uruguayan corporation, or in the name of a foreign corporation. (The foreign corporation could be from your home country, or from another country such as Costa Rica or Panama.) The structure you choose will depend on the type of property, your personal situation, and your tax situation. In Uruguay, a private individual, a corporation and a foreign corporation are all treated differently under the tax code. Under different situations, each form of ownership could offer a tax advantage. This can make a big difference in what you owe at the end of the year, either in Uruguay or in your home country. It’s important to consult with a tax expert before you make a final decision. He can give you clear alternatives once he knows the specifics of your situation. The person I consult for tax matters is Juan Fischer, at [email protected]. Juan is also familiar with U.S. tax law.

Categorizing farm land in Uruguay The Uruguayan government has categorized all of Uruguay’s land according to its capability to be productive. The rating system is called CONEAT, and it assigns a numerical rating to all land in Uruguay. For more on this system, see page 120. Chapter Fourteen: Commercial Property Guide

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Commercial property examples from around Uruguay Here are a few examples of commercial properties from around Uruguay.

Small hotel near Punta del Este’s Mansa beach A functioning hotel, just two blocks from the popular Playa Mansa beach in Punta del Este is for sale right now. Located in a leafy and tranquil neighborhood, the hotel has 18 rooms, each with private bathroom, air conditioning, TV with cable, and a safe. The business also comes with a breakfast room, laundry facility and beautifully landscaped gardens. This sale includes both the business license and the property. Price $1,400,000. For additional information, e-mail [email protected].

Ocean view development land in Rocha This is the province with Uruguay’s best beaches, and the current investment hotspot on the coast. The area of the property is 74.1 acres (30 hectares) on Uruguay Route 10 with direct access to the beach. The land is located about halfway in between La Paloma and La Pedrera. Price: $960,000. That is about $3.20 per square meter. Utilities are at the site. Contact the real estate agent at; e-mail: [email protected] for details.

Eucalyptus farm in Rocha Real estate agent Puntamar has a 34.6-acre (14 hectare) farm for sale in Rocha, located on route 15 about a half mile from the sea. At this time 24.7 acres are planted with Eucalyptus trees. The property includes a well, water tank, and electrical service. Price: $280,000. E-mail [email protected] for more information.

Development opportunity in Costa Azul, Rocha Real estate agent Alberto Prandi has a tempting property for sale in the small beach town of Costa Azul, less than two miles north of La Paloma. The land parcel is 22.23 acres (9 hectares), less than 200 yards from the water and with wonderful ocean views. The view from this property extends from the port of La Paloma all the way to La Pedrera, making this a promising location for development. Price: $1,200,000. For details, contact [email protected].

Small tourist complex in Punta del Diablo, Rocha This business is in the famous beach town of Punta del Diablo, and is being sold fully-equipped and operational. You get everything, including the name and client list. It has 12 two-bedroom cabins, each suitable for six people, with kitchens, cable TV and barbecue. Also included are 12 apartments equipped for four people each. The complex is on the sand, one block from the ocean in Punta

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del Diablo, one of the most sought after destinations in Uruguay. Price: $1,700,000. Contact [email protected] for more information.

Small tourist complex in Piriápolis Located just three blocks from the beach, this small complex has three styles of cabins. Each has a capacity of between four and six people. They come fullyfurnished with a completely-equipped kitchen, fireplace, cable TV, carport, and each with its own individual wood-fired barbecue outdoors. The total construction is approximately 5,400 square feet, on just under a half-acre of land.

The complex is filled to capacity during the high season (January and February), with some traffic during holidays over the rest of the year. The asking price is $650,000…which should be very negotiable. This would be a good way for an entrepreneur to support themselves in Uruguay. The property is listed by Pedro Gava, and you can contact [email protected] for more information.

Hotel in downtown Piriápolis This hotel has been functioning for more than 60 years, with 15 guest rooms, each with a private bathroom. It’s located just one block from the beach in downtown Piriápolis, and comes completely furnished. You could take over the business “as is”, and I’d believe you’d get what I call “backpacker prices”…which is probably okay given the relatively low asking price. Alternatively, you could do one of two things: remodel the property into a higher-end boutique hotel that would be sellable to boomer-age North Americans…or make the upper two floors into luxury apartments for resale. At this location, you’d get a good price. (The latter would be my approach.) The asking price is $330,000, and you can get more information from Pedro Gava at [email protected].

Olive orchard near the beach town of Cuchilla Alta An attractive little beach town spooned around its own small crescent-shaped beach has a tempting opportunity. The property is 51.87 acres (21 hectares) of land, just over half of which is dedicated to an olive plantation. Also included is a three-bedroom house, two wells of 5,500 liters each, irrigation system, tractor and equipment shed. Price: $210,000. Contact [email protected] for details.

Supermarket and bakery in Atlántida The business has been going for 40 years, and consists of a small supermarket with an attached bakery and rotisserie, including a wood-fired oven. All equipment is included, but not the store’s inventory. Above the store and bakery

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is a two-bedroom apartment, with a veranda, service quarters, and wood-fired barbecue. Price: $220,000. For more information contact Voila Inmobiliaria at: e-mail: [email protected].

Classic little hotel in Montevideo’s Centro In one of Centro’s historic buildings, there’s an operating hostel for sale. It’s a small hotel from the 1920’s, with original period stained glass, woodwork and hand painted ceramic tile floors. The building covers 2,485 square feet and it includes eight bedrooms and 20 beds, totally equipped. Price: $140,000. E-mail [email protected] for additional details.

Restaurant business in Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja A restaurant business in a stunningly decorated facility is for sale in Ciudad Vieja. There are two large patio/dining rooms with glass ceilings, two completely equipped kitchens, and two bar areas, one with a large salad bar set-up. The business does corporate or private events, weddings, etc. This sale is for transfer of the business license and rental contract only and doesn’t include purchase of the facility itself. The monthly cost of the facility rental is $1,400. Price: $75,000. Contact the broker at [email protected] for more information, or for the full inventory.

Pine farm in Canelones Sigalo a Varela is offering a 145-acre (59 hectare) farm that is planted with pines for pulp or paper. It is located between Uruguay routes 8 and 9 in Canelones. Price $247,800. E-mail [email protected] for more information.

Perfectly preserved mansion near Montevideo’s theatre district in Ciudad Vieja This is the nicest period casona in Ciudad Vieja and it’s undeniably in the best location near the famous Teatro Solís of Montevideo. Built in 1875, the 4,336-square-foot house has six bedrooms, five tastefully updated bathrooms, and the woodwork and stained glass throughout is stunning. The possibilities for this property include a boutique hotel, high-end executive offices, art gallery, dance studio, or spa-retreat. Price: $350,000. For more information about this investment, contact [email protected]. LE Propiedades has a good inventory of old Montevideo casonas, so ask about other possibilities, too.

House on pedestrian walkway in Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja I found a home for sale just off Calle Pérez Castillano, which is the site of Ciudad Vieja’s new pedestrian walkway, full of galleries and restaurants. However, there are still some bargains to be had if you like restoration work. The house is located

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about three blocks from the famous Port Market. The first floor has an apartment and a storefront that could be rented. Upstairs, there’s another three-bedroom apartment (six bedrooms total). The total living space is just over 4,200 square feet. The house is in need of restoration, but it’s in an ideal location for capital appreciation, thanks to the new pedestrian walkway. Price: $190,000. For more information, contact Cecilia Campbell at [email protected].

Grand colonial house in the heart of Salto There’s a wonderful old house in the heart of old Salto that would make a stunning boutique hotel. Floors, woodwork, stained glass, and moldings are original and in good condition. The two-story property has 6,725 square feet of construction, including 17 bedrooms. Loads of potential in this one, which can be purchased or rented. Price: $500,000. Rental: $2,500 per month. Contact the real estate agent at [email protected] for details.

Dairy farm in Colonia This property, with an exceptional CONEAT rating of 120, is located on the coast of a river, and includes a house and dairy equipment, all on 284 acres (115 hectares) of land in the department of Colonia. Price: $1,000,500. E-mail [email protected] for more information about this listing.

Rental property in Punta del Este with promising returns In the Peninsula of Punta del Este, Voilá Inmobiliaria has a 2,367-square-foot, two-floor storefront (local, in Spanish) on offer. It’s at the most visible spot at the very foot of Avenida Gorlero, where all of the high-end shops are located. The shop is already rented, and the business is paying $2,000 per month in rent, or $24,000 per year. So if you paid the asking price, the gross return comes out to 10.9%. Price: $220,000. Contact [email protected] for more info.

Farming Uruguay A company called Farming Uruguay provides expert professional services to clients seeking profitable agricultural investments in Uruguay. According to founder Daniel Confort, they offer investors complete packages of services, including investment tours and information, assistance in property acquisition, and professional farm management, as well as legal and accounting services. On his website, he has some interesting models showing costs and potential profits from farming operations. E-mail Daniel at [email protected] for more information, or see his website at www.Internet.com.uy/farmurug.

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CHAPTER FIFTEEN Your Exploratory Visit

No matter how much reading, e-mailing or Internet research you do, there’s no way to know if Uruguay is really for you unless you visit. This chapter will help you find your way around and enjoy yourself on the trip. Uruguay is not exactly close to the U.S.—over nine hours from Miami—so I’m always amazed at the constant stream of North American visitors that we have, and the number of expats who are moving here.

Getting to Uruguay Non-stop flights to Montevideo When coming to Montevideo (MVD), the easiest way is usually to book a non-stop flight from Miami. It’s a nine-hour overnight flight, and you’ll arrive here much more relaxed than if you spend part of the night changing planes somewhere along the way. The only non-stops from the U.S. at this time are on American Airlines, although service to Montevideo has increased notably during the last four years. American’s schedule varies between winter and summer. Montevideo also has nonstops to Madrid via Iberia (which is a 12-hour flight) and Panama City, Panama via Copa/Continental (seven hours).

Insider tip: If at all possible, avoid the connection in Buenos Aires, unless you’re spending time there. It’s a three-and-a-half hour layover when it’s on time…and it’s almost never on time.

If you are bringing an animal (that’s not in the cabin with you) I’d consider the non-stop mandatory. Don’t take the chance that your pet will miss a connection in a third country, for which it does not have the paperwork to enter.

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If you are getting quotes for expensive airfares by booking one ticket from your home airport to Montevideo, try booking separate flights: one from home to Miami, and the other from Miami to Montevideo. This can sometimes be cheaper.

Connecting flights to Montevideo If you can’t fly to Montevideo directly, the most common alternate connections between Montevideo and the U.S. are via Buenos Aires, Santiago (Lan Chile), or Panama City (COPA/Continental). Each of these cities offers good connections to the U.S., and in fact the overall flight from your home may be more convenient via one of these cities.

For example, if you’re coming from New York, the non-stop to Santiago on Lan Chile (followed by a two-hour flight to Montevideo) is better than American’s flight with a long layover in Miami. Be careful, though, that this technique does not require you to stay overnight in the connecting city…that would cost more in the end, in both time and money. In my experience, if you’re connecting, the connection in Panama City is the most reliable, if it works for you. The least reliable is Buenos Aires.

From Europe, try to connect in Madrid, with a non-stop to Montevideo. If you connect in Miami, you must “enter” the U.S. officially, just to make your flight connection. This requires you to retrieve your luggage and clear Customs and immigration, and that means photos and fingerprints if you’re not a U.S. citizen. But even U.S. citizens like to avoid the delays, hassle, and notoriously rude behavior of Miami airport personnel.

Arriving via Buenos Aires and the ferry Another alternative is to book a flight to Buenos Aires, and then continue to Uruguay by ferry across Río de la Plata. From Buenos Aires, the crossing is 130 miles to Montevideo (3 hours), and 32 miles to Colonia (under an hour). The ferry (called Buquebus) leaves Buenos Aires bound for Montevideo, Colonia, or Punta del Este, as well as several other Uruguayan cities. The way it works is that the ferry goes either to Colonia or Montevideo, and then they take you the rest of the way on a luxury, air-conditioned bus. Here are a couple of tips if you’re taking the ferry: • Book through to your final destination. If you’re taking Buquebus to Punta del Este, book it all the way to Punta del Este when you buy your ferry ticket, rather than buying a ticket to just Montevideo. That way you don’t have to buy an additional ticket in order to finish your journey.

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• Consider first class. I often use the first-class ferry service to and from Buenos Aires. It costs a bit more, but it’s much nicer—although the trip is comfortable either way. I don’t use the ferry often, so to me it’s worth the extra cost when I do. • Be careful with your Argentina pesos. It’s easy to confuse Uruguay’s currency with Argentina’s if you’ve never seen either one, and the Argentine peso is worth much more. When you land in Uruguay, make sure you put your Argentine pesos away for another day. • Allow time to clear Customs and immigration when leaving Argentina. • The ferry in Buenos Aires is located in Puerto Madero, a beautifully restored waterfront section with great shops and one of the city’s highest concentrations of fine restaurants. Try to allow yourself a couple of hours to enjoy some of the city’s fine waterfront dining. The Buquebus website is www.buquebus.com if you’d like more information, or would like to book in advance. Insider tip: Taking the ferry is not an efficient way to get to Uruguay from abroad, unless you’re combining your Uruguay trip with a trip to Argentina. The Buenos Aires international airport is not close to the ferry dock, and it’s an expensive cab ride to get from one to the other. Also, you must clear immigration to enter Argentina and then clear it again to leave for Uruguay: an airport connection is much easier. But if you’ve spent a few days in Buenos Aires, the ferry is a great alternative to get to downtown Montevideo, Colonia, or points beyond. Remember, Argentina charges U.S. citizens a $140 entry fee if you pass through customs.

Combining your stay with a trip to Argentina Many people choose to spend a few days in Buenos Aires when traveling to Uruguay. If you do, you can get to Uruguay via ferry (as described above) or fly to either Montevideo or Punta del Este. When departing Buenos Aires by air for Uruguay, I’d suggest departing from Aeroparque Jorje Newbery airport (AEP) instead of the Ezeiza International Airport (EZE). It’s located downtown, is convenient to get to, and has more frequent flights to Uruguay.

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Insider tip: When you’re buying a ticket to return to Argentina for your international flight home, make sure the flight is to EZE instead of AEP…it takes over an hour to get from one to the other on the shuttle.

Flying into Punta del Este Although Punta del Este has an international airport (PDP), you’ll rarely find any flights that go there unless you’re coming from Argentina or Brazil. Even then, the number of flights to Punta del Este varies with the season. Sometimes they’re competitively priced, and sometimes they’re more expensive. The airport in Punta del Este is about one hour (by car) from the airport in Montevideo.

Get the best deal when booking flights When booking your flight to Uruguay, you want to make sure that you get the best deal possible, right? But with so many websites and online travel agencies out there, the task can be a daunting one. Not so with our special report How to Get the Best Deal on Every Airfare You Buy. In it, you’ll discover the secrets seasoned travelers use to uncover the lowest airfares, the tricks they use to grab the last remaining seats on a flight, and ingenious ways they uncover prime hotel vacancies during peak tourist season. For more, see https://orders.internationalliving.com/120SBAIR9/U120N2U3/index.htm?pageNumber=2.

Traveling within Uruguay Once you’ve arrived in Uruguay, you’ll find it easy to get around.

Continuing on from the Montevideo airport From the airport there is a frequent local bus service to Montevideo for less than $1. But if you have more than just hand luggage (and don’t know your way around Montevideo), I’d suggest taking a taxi or an airport hotel shuttle. Ask at the airport information desk for assistance.

Renting a car You can rent a car with your current driver’s license without an International Driver’s License. If you do get an international license, get the Interamerican Drivers License rather than the International Drivers License. Both are available from AAA (www.aaa.com/vacation/idpapplc.html) or CAA (www.caa.ca/travel/travel-permits-e.cfm), for $15. For the price, I think getting one is a good idea, since it translates your license into a number of other languages. Chapter Fifteen: Your Exploratory Visit

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In general, you’ll find the roads are excellent and well marked, and you can move along at 70 mph on most of them. Many are maintained by a concession, and collect a toll every so often. There’s no better way to explore the country than renting a car and going on your own. Do not rent a car, though, if you’re staying in Montevideo. The taxis are plentiful, they all use meters, and they’re inexpensive. A car will feel like a burden in the city. If you’re seeing the country beyond Montevideo, I’d suggest picking your rental car up on the way out of town when you’re ready to be on your way.

Using public transportation Uruguay has a good inter-provincial bus system. You’ll find that the buses are clean, air conditioned, well maintained, and inexpensive. Most now have Wi-Fi.

Reservations Be sure to have hotel reservations if you’re traveling to the popular spots between December and March, or during Easter Week or the week prior to Lent (Carnaval). The rest of the year, reservations normally won’t be necessary if you’re a bit flexible about where you stay. Almost all hotels offer discounts for cash, and during the off-season.

Staying in touch All town squares in Uruguay (and many plazas in Montevideo) are equipped with free public Wi-Fi. Also, several city bus lines in Montevideo and the interprovincial buses now have Wi-Fi. You can also obtain mobile broadband in Uruguay, and pay for it with a prepaid card…without a contract. Mobile broadband providers are Movistar (formerly Bell South), Claro, and Ancel. Internet cafés are plentiful and inexpensive, generally less than $1 per hour. Service is typically good. To make phone calls, you’ll find call centers located throughout the country. Antel, the national phone company, operates most of these. If you’re here for a while and looking at properties, consider buying a cell phone so people can reach you easily. You can buy an inexpensive cell phone and obtain service in a matter of minutes. Also, getting local cell service on your existing cell phone is easy if your cell phone is unblocked…and if it’s not unblocked, most cell phone shops can do it for you easily. There’s no charge for incoming cell calls.

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What to pack The climate in Uruguay is like that of the Carolinas in the U.S. You can expect high temperatures up in the 80s and sometimes higher in the summer (December through February). Colonia (and the areas upriver from there) will be somewhat hotter than Montevideo and the coastal region. In the winter, you’ll have days that never get out of the 50s and other periods that will climb into the high 60s, with occasional blustery days. Rainfall is moderate and fairly consistent throughout the year. Accordingly, light, airy cottons and short sleeves are the order of the day in January, while a medium-weight jacket will be needed in June. Men in short pants (with sandals) are much more common in Uruguay than in the rest of Latin America, particularly on the coast. Women should dress like they would in the U.S. Don’t forget to bring along a swimsuit for the summer months, and something dressy if you’re going to the theater or orchestra in Montevideo. You’ll also want to bring a good guidebook and a Spanish/English dictionary. If you’d like an electronic pocket dictionary, the best I’ve seen is made by Franklin Electronics (website: www.franklin.com). It’s always advisable to make photocopies of your passport, prescriptions, and plane tickets. Keep a set with you, and leave a set with someone back home who can fax or e-mail them to you if you need them. And don’t forget your sun screen. The atmosphere’s ozone layer is thin in this part of the world, and the ultraviolet rating on the ground is often off-scale, according to local weather forecasts. Sun screen is important here, especially if you’re fair-skinned.

Suggested itineraries Uruguay is a small country, and you can see a good portion of it even if you only have two weeks in which to do it. As you’re planning your trip, remember that many real estate agents are closed on Saturday afternoon, and almost none are open on Sunday. The exception is Punta del Este, where the aggressive real estate business is almost a 24/7 operation.

Seeing Montevideo, Colonia, and Punta del Este The options here are limitless. Whether you enter the country in Montevideo, Punta del Este, or Colonia, you’ll find rental cars and good bus service to continue on your way. Frequent, comfortable public transportation connects these three cities. Chapter Fifteen: Your Exploratory Visit

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Adding the Interior to your trip No matter how extensively or briefly you’re going to explore the Interior, Uruguay lends itself to a “round robin” approach. (The exception would be adding only Mercedes to your itinerary, which is just a day’s drive from Colonia.) For example, if you start in Montevideo, you can head out the coast to the Costa de Oro, Punta del Este, and La Paloma/La Pedrera. From there you can travel to Treinta y Tres, Tacuarembó, and then up to Salto. Leaving Salto, travel down the river to Paysandú, Fray Bentos, Mercedes, Carmelo, and Colonia… ending up back in Montevideo. See Appendix C for a map of Uruguay.

What to do while you’re here While you’re in Montevideo Montevideo is a big city, and it would take quite a while to get to know it all. Most readers spend the majority of their time in Ciudad Vieja or the adjacent Centro…at least at the outset. Longer-term residents and Uruguayans gravitate to the more-upscale parts of the city, like Punta Carretas, Pocitos, or Carrasco. Each of these areas has its own character, its own “downtown”, and its own diehard fans. Either way, I’d allow at least two full days (excluding travel to the city) just to get a feel for your chosen areas, without looking at real estate. While you’re here, enjoy the fine dining in Ciudad Vieja, and be sure to go to the waterfront market. On Saturday, you can take in the flea market at Plaza Constitución. Also, try stopping by Teatro Solís (website: www.teatrosolis.org.uy) in Ciudad Vieja or Sala Zitarrosa (website: www.salazitarrosa.com.uy) in Centro to see who is performing—you may find something that interests you during your stay.

While you’re in Piriápolis Enjoy the beaches that stretch either way from the city to the surrounding towns. Spend some time strolling the nice boardwalk, and enjoying some of the local restaurants and cafés. Also, be sure to see the Argentino Hotel, which is a world-renowned Piriápolis landmark. The Cerro del Toro offers fantastic views of the city and ocean, and a beautiful sculpture of a bronze bull brought from Paris, which weighs 7,000 pounds. Piriápolis also has a popular chair lift that goes up the hill called Cerro San Antonio, where the entire coast between Piriápolis and Punta del Este can be seen from the top.

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Many people see Piriápolis while staying in Punta del Este, as they’re fairly close to each other.

While you’re in Punta del Este To get to know the area, I’d plan on spending two relaxed days in a rental car. Aside from seeing the city on the peninsula, try traveling outside of it; going about five miles in both directions while exploring the individual neighborhoods along the way. There are literally hundreds of houses and apartments to look at, and how many you see will be more a function of how much time you have than of what’s available. In any case, to get a feel for the apartments in the town proper, allow two full days. For the homes outside of town, allow two more. Make sure you work with various real estate agents while here. The market is very competitive and aggressive, and you’ll often see price differences among real estate agents. While you’re here, you’ll have no trouble keeping yourself occupied, even in the dead of winter. From gambling to dancing to fine dining, Punta del Este has a lot to do. If you need tips from this book to keep yourself occupied in Punta del Este, you’re in trouble.

While you’re in Rocha Be sure to drive along the shore from José Ignacio to La Paloma. I think these stretches of beach are by far the nicest in Uruguay. On the way, you’ll pass Laguna Garzón, which is an estuary that joins the ocean just north of José Ignacio. To cross, you’ll need to take the free car ferry, capable of taking two small cars at a time.

While you’re in Treinta y Tres Check out what may be Uruguay’s nicest town square, and the monuments to the 33 heroes for which the town is named. The restaurant in the Hotel 33 was quite nice, and well worth visiting for dinner.

While you’re in Tacuarembó A day will be sufficient to see what the town has to offer, as it’s quite small. If you’re looking at real estate, however, that will be a different matter. Most people looking at property here are interested in ranch land, and some of what’s on offer is pretty far-flung. Seeing photos of the properties will be easy, since the real

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estate agents are few, but driving to them could take a while. If you’re interested in ranch property, I’d allow at least two additional full days. While you’re in town, drive out to the Valle de Edén, and take in the museum dedicated to the world’s most famous tango singer, Carlos Gardel. The museum provides an interesting look at the life of Gardel, and displays a lot of documentary evidence to support the fact that Gardel was actually born here in Tacuarembó—a premise that is maintained by virtually all Uruguayans and disputed by the French and Argentines. If you’re visiting in March, try to see the Gaucho festival, which will include a lot of exciting competitions much like an American rodeo. Also, the Museo del Indo y del Gaucho is worth a visit, and has collections of Native American and gaucho art, weapons, and implements.

While you’re in Colonia Be sure to allow time to stroll through the original Portuguese settlement along the river, and sample some of the fine cafés in Barrio Histórico. If you’re here in February, try to time your visit to take in the annual jazz festival. Just enter “Jazz Colonia” into Google to find the dates for the current year.

While you’re in Mercedes The best parrillada in town is La Churrasquera, a block from the plaza at Castro and Careaga. Even if you’re not hungry, take your camera just to get a picture of some of the impressive wood grills in this block, with their meats carefully arranged as if by a designer. If the weather is warm, a few hours on the beach or a picnic at the wooded island park are a nice way to spend an afternoon. Mercedes also has a well-known city-wide jazz festival—called Jazz a la Calle, roughly meaning “jazz on the street”—normally held in January. If you’re into jazz, this is the biggest event in Uruguay.

While you’re in Salto Be sure to visit the hot springs, called termas, just south of town. This area draws thousands of tourists every year from Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay. It is booked solid during Easter Week and Carnival.

While you’re in Paysandú Drive over to Casablanca, the original Jesuit settlement that was the forerunner of Paysandú in the late 1700s. I came upon it on a hot, lazy afternoon, and

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watched from a hill as a group of small boys idled home with their fishing poles and the day’s catch. With row after row of neat white houses, it was reminiscent of a rural, inland Caribbean setting. While you’re in Fray Bentos

Between Paysandú and Fray Bentos lies San Javier, a Russian colony from 1913. It still has some Russian influence, including Russian writing on the street signs, and restaurants that serve Russian dishes. You’ll pass miles and miles of sunflowers on your way to town, and see the original old sunflower oil mill used by the Russian immigrants, who first introduced the idea of growing sunflowers for oil. Barrio Anglo lies just outside of Fray Bentos and is a National Historic Site. This is where the industrial revolution began in Uruguay, and is the site of the first electrical power plant. An English entrepreneur founded Barrio Anglo.

Enjoy Uruguay! I hope you enjoy your trip to Uruguay, and I’m sure you’ll find something here that feels just right. Maybe you’ll prefer the Old-World ambiance of Montevideo or the colonial charm of Colonia del Sacramento. You might feel at home on the vast stretches of ranch land near Tacuarembó, or perhaps you’re the type who enjoys the beaches of Punta del Este—or the vast, lonely sands of Barra de Valizas. Regardless of what you’re looking for in a new life abroad, be it a new residence or a place to escape the North American winters, you’ll find that there’s truly something in Uruguay for you.

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APPENDIX A The Uruguay Rolodex

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APPENDIX A The Uruguay Rolodex The contacts in this directory are organized by categories. The categories are then sub-divided into regions—the same regions used throughout the book. Here’s an index to help you find your way around.



Contacts list Table of contents Category Attorneys/Escribanos Business and Investment Embassies and Consulates Health care Immigration International movers Language schools

Page 208 209 209 211 212 213 214

Category Real estate agents Relocation specialists Tourism contacts Translators (Certified Public) Veterinarians Additional resources

Page 214 219 219 221 222 222

New phone number formats in Uruguay Until recently, Uruguayan phone numbers could have five, six, or seven digits depending on the area. But as of August 29, 2010, all land-line phones in Uruguay now have 8-digit numbers, and all calls nationwide, are local calls, with no area codes. (No changes to cell phone numbers.) Within Uruguay, you just dial the 8-digit number, country-wide. From abroad, you dial your international access code, the country code, plus the 8-digit number. For example, from the U.S. you’d dial 011 (598) 1234-5678, from the UK you’d dial, 00 (598) 1234-5678. Existing numbers will be converted using the following scheme: • The former 7-digit numbers (only Montevideo) will get “2” prefix (its former area code). • The former 6-digit numbers will have a prefix of their former two-digit area code. • The former 5-digit numbers will have a prefix of “4”, plus their former two-digit area code. • The four-digit speed-dial numbers in Montevideo still work in Montevideo, but add a “2” prefix if you’re dialing from outside the city.

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International Living resources For more coverage on Uruguay, make sure you take a look at our website: www.InternationalLiving.com where you’ll find a wealth of articles, information, contacts and news from around the world. Also, check out the International Living magazine. Our monthly magazine provides a scope and depth of information about global travel, living, retiring, investing, and real estate that is not available anywhere else at any price. It is your passport to a brighter, more exciting, and more adventuresome future. For more information, see http://intliving.com/ilmagazine. Want to meet our experts in person? Check our Events schedule and see where they’ll be next. Every year we hold a number of events around the world, where we gather together all our experts so they can share with you, face-to-face, their invaluable insight and experience in living, investing, retiring, and moving overseas. You can see the schedule at, www.internationalliving.com/Events. You can also find us on Facebook. We currently have over 100,000 followers… and counting. This is a great way to get in touch with other IL readers and all our editors. Plus it’s full of fun and interesting photos, videos and much more. Find us at www.facebook.com/International.Living.

Attorneys/Escribanos Montevideo

• Juan Federico Fischer, Managing Partner, Fischer and Schickendantz, Rincón 487, 4th floor, Montevideo 11000, Uruguay; tel +598 2915-7468 ext. 130; cell +598 9992-5106; fax +598 2916-1352; e-mail: [email protected]; website www.fs.com.uy. Juan, a lawyer and MBA, is U.S.-educated and lived in the U.S. for 12 years. He leads a team of bilingual attorneys, escribanos (notaries), and tax advisors covering all of Uruguay. • Hughes y Hughes Abogados, 25 de Mayo 455, 4o piso, Montevideo; tel. +598 2916-0988; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.hughes.com.uy. • Federico Pérez del Castillo (attorney and escribano), Plaza Independencia 1376, 1st floor, Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-2274; fax +598 2902-5666; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.perezdelcastillo.com.

Punta del Este

• Doris L. Hernández P., Certified Public Translator and escribana, Salt Lake, casi Mar de Coral, Chalet “Siete Mares”, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4225-0380; cell +598 (99) 190-201; e-mail: [email protected]

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• Alexandra Fernández, Attorney and escribana, Av Gorlero and R. Pérez del Puerto, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-1468; e-mail: [email protected]. • Gabriela Fernández, Attorney and escribana, Av Gorlero and R. Pérez del Puerto, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-1468; e-mail: [email protected]. • Nathalie Polak, Fischer & Schickendantz; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.fs.com.uy. Colonia

• Ana Lía Mendez, Fischer & Schickendantz; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.fs.com.uy.

Business and investment contacts See page 189 of Chapter 13 for a current list of business and investment contacts.

Embassies and Consulates Australia

• Embassy of Uruguay in Canberra, Australia, Suite 2, Level 4,Commerce House, 24 Brisbane Avenue, Barton ACT 2600, Australia, P.O Box 5058, Kingston, ACT 2604, Australia; tel. +61 (2) 6273-9100. • Consulate General of Uruguay in Sydney, Australia, Level 32 Westpac Plaza Building, 60 Margaret Street, GPO Box 717, Sydney, New South Wales 1043, Australia; tel. +61 (2) 9251-5544; e-mail: [email protected].

Canada

• Embassy of Uruguay in Ottawa, Canada, 130 Albert St. Suite 1905, Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4, Canada; tel. +1 (613) 234-2727; e-mail: [email protected].

New Zealand

• Uruguay Consulate, New Zealand, C/Davis Ogilvie and Partners Ltd., Floor 4 BNZ Building, 137 Armagh St., PO Box 1762, Christchurch, 8051, New Zealand; tel. +64 (3) 366-1653; e-mail: [email protected].

United Kingdom

• Embassy of Uruguay in London, United Kingdom, 2nd Fl, 140 Brompton Road, London SW3 1HY, United Kingdom; tel. +44 (207) 589-8835; e-mail: [email protected].

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United States

• Embassy of Uruguay in the U.S., 1913 I Street, NW, Washington, DC 20006; tel. (202) 331-1313; fax (202) 331-8142; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.mrree.gub.uy/gxpsites/hgxpp001?7,7,442,O,E,0,MNU. • Consulate of New York, 420 Madison Ave., 6th Floor, New York, New York 10017; tel. (212) 753-8191/8192; fax (212) 753-1603; e-mail: [email protected]. • Consulate of Miami, 1077 Pone de Leon Blvd., Coral Gabels, Florida 33134; tel. (305) 443-9764/7453; fax (305) 443-7802; e-mail: [email protected]. • Consulate of Chicago, 875 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1422, Chicago, Illinois 60611; tel. (312) 642-3430; fax (312) 642-3470; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.uruguaychicago.org. • Consulate of Los Angeles, 429 Santa Monica Blvd. # 400, Santa Monica, California 90401; tel. (310) 394-5777; fax (310) 394-5140; e-mail: [email protected]. • Consulate of Washington, DC, 1913 I St., NW, Washington, DC 20006; tel. (202) 331-4219; fax (202) 331-8645; e-mail: [email protected] and [email protected]. • Consulate of San Juan, Puerto Rico, Calle Luna 159, Viejo, San Juan, San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901; tel. (787) 723-2006/2026; fax (787) 723-2035; e-mail: [email protected].

Other Consular posts within the U.S.

There are a number of honorary consuls around the U.S., and to varying degrees, they may be able to take care of some consular issues for you. Inquire at your nearest consulate to see if there is a post near you, it may save you a long trip to the nearest official consulate. Foreign Embassies in Uruguay

• Embassy of Canada, Independencia 749, Office 102, Montevideo; tel. +598 2900-6023 or +598 2902-2030; fax +598 2902-2029; website: www.canadainternational.gc.ca/uruguay. • Embassy of Malta, Plaza Cagancha 1129, Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-9829; fax +598 2909-0012; e-mail: [email protected]. • Embassy of South Africa, Echevarriarza 1335, Montevideo; tel. +598 2623-0161; fax +598 2623-0066; e-mail: [email protected].

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• Embassy of United Kingdom, Marco Bruto 1063, Montevideo; tel. +598 2622-3630; website: ukinuruguay.fco.gov.uk. • Embassy of the U.S., Lauro Muller 1776, Montevideo; tel. +598 21770-2000; fax +598 2418- 8611; e-mail: http://montevideo.usembassy.gov; website: http://uruguay.usembassy.gov/contact.html.

Health care Montevideo

• Hospital Britanico, Avenida Italia 2420, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-1020; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.hospitalbritanico.com.uy. • Asociación Española (or La Española), Blvr. Artigas 1465, Montevideo; tel. dial 1920 from within Montevideo, 2-1920 from outside Montevideo. From outside Uruguay, contact them via their website: www.asesp.com.uy. This hospital is an example of one who accepts applicants over the age of 60. • Hospital Evangelico, Blvr. Battle y Ordonez 2759, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-2319. • Hospital Militar, Avenida 8 de Ocubre 3020, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-6666. • Medica Uruguaya, Avenida 8 de Octubre 2492, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-0525; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.medicauruguaya.com.uy. • Sanatorio Americano, Isabelino Bosch 2466, Montevideo; tel. +598 2708-6041; website: www.americano.com.uy. • Sanatorio Impasa, L.A. de Herrera 2275, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-1016.

Ambulance services:

For ambulance service in Montevideo, dial 911.

Ciudad de la Costa

• Hospital Evangelico, Ciudad de la Costa, Aenida Gianattazio, Km 21 200, Esquina Rio Uruguay y Lagomar; tel. +598 2682-6965 or +598 2682-4248; website: www.hospitalevangelico.com/filial_ciudad_de_la_costa.asp.

Costa de Oro

• Policlinica del Ministerio de Salud Publica, Parque del Plata; tel. +598 4375-5080. • Policlinica del Ministerio de Salud Publica, La Floresta; tel. +598 4373-9617.

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Piriápolis

• Cardiomovil, Av. Roosevelt y Acuña de Figueroa, Piriápolis; tel. +598 4222-8778; website: www.cardiomovil.com.uy. • Mautone, Av. Roosevelt y Honduras, Maldonado; tel. +598 4222-5474; website: www.semm-mautone.com.uy.

Punta del Este

• Cardiomovil, Punta del Este; tel. (emergencies) +598 4222-9000; website: www.cardiomovil.com.uy. • Mautone, Av. Roosevelt y Honduras, Maldonado; tel. +598 4222-5474; website: www.semm-mautone.com.uy. • La Asistencial, Cantegril, Av. Roosevelt Parada 13, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4248-9151; website: http://laasistencial.wordpress.com. • Dr. Claudia W. Difiuri de Falcioni (dentist), Calle Gorlero y 31, Edificio Sagasti #302, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-4646; cell +598 9444-2307; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.clinicadifiuri-falcioni.com.

Colonia

• Hospital Evangélico, Daniel Fosalba 366, Colonia; tel. +598 4522-5024; website: www.hospitalevangelico.com/filial_colonia_del_sacramento.asp. • Hospital Público Colonia, 18 de Julio 462, Colonia; tel. +598 4522-2994 or +598 4522-2945.

Mercedes

• Hospital Dr. Zoilo A. Chellie, Sanchez 204, Mercedes; tel. +598 4532-2177.

Treinta y Tres

• Hospital Público de Treinta y Tres, J. E. Rodo 1381, Treinta Y Tres; tel. +598 4452-2002.

Immigration contacts • Dirección Nacional de Migración (Montevideo), 1513 Misiones, Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo; tel. +598 2916-0471; website: www.dnm.minterior.gub.uy. • Oficina de Migración, Punta del Este (Maldonado), Ventura Alegre 727 y Sarandí, Maldonado; tel. +598 4223-7066.

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• Oficina de Migración, Carmelo, Constituyentes y Carmen, Carmelo; tel. +598 4542-2433 or +598 4542-2461. • Oficina de Migración, Fray Bentos, Zorrilla y Sarandi, Fray Bentos; tel. +598 4562-2302. • Oficina de Migración, Salto, Artigas 450, Salto; tel. +598 4733-2860. • Dirección Nacional de Identificación Civil (DNIC), Rincón 665, Montevideo; tel. +598 2916-1535, ext. 37; website: www.uruguay.gub.uy/dnic. • Colegio de Traductores Públicos del Uruguay (Public Translators of Uruguay), Colonia 892, Montevideo; tel. +598 2903-3130; website: www.colegiotraductores.org.uy. This is a national listing of Certified Public Translators. • Interpol Office, Dirección Nacional de Información e Inteligencia, Maldonado 1109, corner Paraguay, Montevideo; tel. +598 2903-1007; website: www.interpol.int. • Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores (Foreign Relations Ministry), Colonia 1206, Montevideo; tel. +598 2902-1010; website: www.mrree.gub.uy. • Dirección General del Registro del Estado Civil, Registro de Extranjeros (Registry of Foreigners),Calle Uruguay 933, corner Rio Branco, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-6114 or +598 2903-1376. • Ministerio de Salud Pública (Department of Public Health), División de Clínicas Preventivas Durazno 1242 and Carlos Quijano, Montevideo; tel. +598 2900-2951 or +598 2902-9000 or +598 2901-7891. • SUAT Centro Diagnostico (Carne de Salud), Clinica del Estadio, Estadio Centenario, Tribuna America, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-7047.

International movers • María Estela Campos, Autogiro. Pozos del Rey 1379, Montevideo; tel. +598 2924-1577, e-mail: [email protected], website: www.autogiro.com.uy. In my experience here in Uruguay, this company is the most-responsive and professional. They’d be my first choice for an international mover in Uruguay. • Martin Barrandeguy, International Moving Business S.A. -Mudanzas Intermove, Félix Olmedo 3568, 11700 Montevideo; tel. +598 2309-7877; fax +598 2309-7893; e-mail: [email protected] or [email protected]; website: www.imb.com.uy.

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Language schools • ĀREA Ñ – Escuela de Español, Calle de San Jose 140, Centro Histórico, Colonia del Sacramento; tel. +598 (95) 473-837 and (786) 272-9426 (in the U.S.); e-mail: [email protected]. • Berlitz Plaza Independencia, Plaza Independencia 1380 bis, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-5535; website: www.berlitz.com.uy/spanish_uy.htm#0. • Berlitz Bulevar Artiga, Bulevar Artigas 1263, Montevideo; tel. +598 2403-0121; website: www.berlitz.com.uy/spanish_uy.htm#0. • La Herradura Centro de Enseñanza Español, Joaquín de Salteraín 1240, Montevideo; tel. +598 2409-7894; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.spanish-herradura.com.

Real estate agents Insider tip: Check www.buscandocasa.com, before working with any individual real estate agent. It has the largest number of listings of any source in Uruguay, and you can use it to get an idea of what things are really going for. For information on real estate developments across Uruguay, contact International Living’s real estate advertising partner Pathfinder International: • Pathfinder International; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.pathfinderinternational.net. Montevideo

• AC Propiedades; tel. +598 2604-4743; e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://acpropiedades.com. • Brodski Propiedades; e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://inmobrodski.com. • Caputto & Gandolfo, Palacio Diaz, 18 de Julio de 1333 Of.201, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-1957; e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://caputtogandolfo.com. • Casco Antiguo Propiedades, Treinta y Tres 1334 of. 502, Montevideo; tel. +598 2916-3230 e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.cascoantiguopropiedades.com. • CD Propiedades, Méndez nuñez 2674, Montevideo; tel. +598 2707-9411; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.cdpropiedades.com.uy.

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• Cecilia Campbell, Reynolds Propiedades & Relocation, 25 de Mayo 247, Office 101, Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo; tel. +598 2915-7926; cell +598 9960-4856; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/montevideo/; website: www.ReynoldsPropiedades.com. • Praino Propiedades, Cádiz 3076, Montevideo; tel. +598 2480-8305; e-mail: [email protected] . • Prandi Grupo Inmobiliario, Nicaragua 1404, Montevideo; tel. +598 2924-2610; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi; website; www.grupoprandi.com. • Silvana Corsato Inmobiliaria, Osorio 1154, Montevideo; tel. +598 2622-5959; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.crosato.com.uy. • Tesouro Negocios Inmobiliariaos, Rambla República del Perú 1125, Pocitos, Montevideo; tel. +598 2707 29-65; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.tesouro.com.uy. Ciudad de la Costa

• Costacasas Propiedades, Santiago Gadea Nº 3162 esq. Av. Dr.Navarro, Parque Batlle, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487 3284; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.costacasas.com.uy. • Inmobiliaria Espacio, Centro, Mondevideo; tel. +598 2211 5279; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmoespacio.com. • Inmobiliaria Varela, Giannatassio Km. 23.500, Solymar Sur; tel. +598 2696-1762; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.sigaloavarela.com.

Costa de Oro

• D&L Propiedades, Washington Beltrán 1780 ap. 1001, Montevideo; tel. +598 2480-6765; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.dlpropiedades.com.uy. • Inmobiliaria Julietta, Avenida Julieta, Salinas; tel. +598 4376-2400; e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://julietainmobiliaria.com. • Moreno Inmobiliaria, Rambla del Arroyo y Calle D, Parque del Plata; tel. +598 4375-5385 or +598 4375-2037; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmobiliariamoreno.com. • Praga Negocios Inmobiliarios, Los Ruiseñores Km 26 A 150 Mts De Giannattasio, Lomas Solymar 1, Cd. De La Costa; tel. +598 2269-65302; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.praga.com.uy.

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• Voila Inmobiliaria, Avda. Ferreira entre Calle 12 y 13, Parque del Plata; tel. +598 4375-2302 or +598 4375-6023; cell +598 9962-0603; fax +598 4375-2302; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. Piriápolis

• Alberto Prandi, Avenida Italia y Chiverta, Parada 3, Aidy Gris, Punta del Este; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. • Alda Propiedades, Av. Central y Calle 7, Punta Colorada; tel. +598 4432-7764; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.alda.com.uy. • Gonzáles Propiedades, Atanasio Sierra 892, Centro, Piriapolis; tel. +598 4432-4530; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.gonzalezpropiedades.com.uy. • Inmobiliaria Miramar, Rambla de los Argentinos 1124, Centro, Piriápolis; tel. +598 4432-2615; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.miramar.com.uy. • Los Angeles Inmobiliaria, Rambla de los Argentinos esq. Ellauri, Los Ángeles, Piriápolis; tel. +598 4432-0834; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.losangeles.inmobiliaria.com.uy. • Antonio Mieres (Playa Chihuahua); e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.antoniomieres.com.uy.

Punta del Este — La Barra

• Abasolo Inmobiliaria, Pda 24 1/2-Pinares-Maldonado, Península, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-8163; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.abasolo.com.uy. • Agua Clara Propiedades, Av. Uruguay S8 M11, Solymar Sur, Cd. De La Costa; tel. +598 2695-9671; e-mail: [email protected]. • Alberto Prandi, Avenida Italia y Chiverta, Parada 3, Aidy Gris, Punta del Este; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. • Buen Ayre Inmobiliaria, Av. Gorlero 683, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-0111; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.buenayre.com.uy. • Gerone’s Inmobiliaria, Rambla Lorenzo Battle Pacheco Parada 1, Edificio Mare Nostrum Local 002 Punta del Este; tel. +598 4249-3247; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.geronesinmobiliaria.com.uy.

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• Iavecchia Propiedades, Rbla. Claudio Williman y Avda. España - Parada 25, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4223-5278; e-mail: [email protected]; website: http://iavecchia.com. • Mieres Realty, Gorlero esq. Calle 29 Local 005, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-8516; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.antoniomieres.com.uy. • Puntamar Inmobiliaria, Edificio Gramado, Calle 29 between Gorlero & Calle 20, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-5302; cell +598 9981-1404; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.puntamar.com. • Sudamerica Propiedades, Península, Punta del Este; tel. +598 9427-6239; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.sudamerica.com.uy. • Voila Inmobiliaria, Calle 24 between 19 & 21, local 006, Peninsula; tel. +598 4244-9794; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. José Ignacio

• Alejandro Perazzo, Calle Saiz Martinez y Los Cisnes, José Ignacio; tel. +598 4486-2627 or +598 44862-868; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com. • Inmobiliaria Club del Mar, Calles 25 y 26, Península, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-5270; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.clubdelmar.com.uy. • Uruguay Property Partnership (Margret Holzer de Baez), Chalet “Valle Arriba”, Parada 36, Octante y Sagitario, Punta del Este, Uruguay; tel. +598 4222-8371; cell +598 9938-1172; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.uruguayproperty.com.

Rocha: La Paloma, La Pedrera, and Barra de Valizas

• Alberto Prandi, Avenida Italia y Chiverta, Parada 3, Aidy Gris, Punta del Este; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. • Puntorío Propiedades, Avenida Solari, CP 27001, La Paloma; tel. +598 4479-8529; cell +598 9987-2555; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.PuntoRio.com. • Uruguay Properties.com, Avda. Rivera Nº 6666, Montevideo; tel. +598 2601-8531; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.uruguayproperties.com.uy.

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• Voila Inmobiliaria, Calle 24 between 19 & 21, local 006, Peninsula; tel. +598 4244-9794; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy.

The Uruguayan Interior Mercedes

A few years ago, I couldn’t find a single real estate agent in Mercedes… now there are 13, at last count. None of them have their own websites so far, but you can find them all here, with lists of their properties: http://uruguay.inmobiliaria.com/inmobiliarias-en_soriano-Z25043.htm. • Inmobiliaria Piloni, Sánchez 1090, Mercedces; tel. +598 532-6276; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.sorianototal.com/piloni/inmobiliaria.htm. • Martin Vargas Inmobiliaria, José Pedro Varela No. 423, Mercedes; tel. +598 532-9407; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.sorianototal.com/vargas/estudios.htm. Villa Serrana

• Inmobiliaria Serrana, Av. Varela 1228, Minas; tel. +598 4442-8000; e-mail: [email protected].

Treinta y Tres

• Inmobiliaria Mundo, Manuel Melendez 1202, Treinta Y Tres; tel. +598 0452-2981; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmobiliariamundo.com.uy.

Uruguay’s river cities Colonia

• Sergio Mato Inmobiliaria, Joaquín Mato, Washington Barbot 169, Colonia; tel. +598 4522-5315 or +598 4522-4226; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmomato.com. • Toribio Achával Propiedades, Rodolfo Fernández, Av. General Flores 226, Colonia; tel. +598 4522-1111; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy.

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Carmelo

• Inmobiliaria Gabriel Conde, 19 de Abril 235, Carmelo; tel. +598 4542-3451; cell +598 9954-2674; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.gabrielconde.com.

Fray Bentos

• Inmobiliaria Buzo & Cia, 18 de julio 1073, Fray Bentos; tel. +598 4562-2413; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmobiliariabuzoycia.com.uy.

Paysandú

• Inmobiliaria Paysandu, 18 de Julio 938, Paysandú; tel. +598 4722-5747; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.inmobiliariapaysandu.com.

Salto

• Inmobiliaria Cánepa y Cánepa, Uruguay 1501, Salto; e-mail: [email protected]; website: www.canepa.com.uy. For consulting on ranches or land: Joaquin Silva Gallino, tel. +598 9973-5945; e-mail: [email protected].

Relocation specialists • CCM Soluciones (Andrea Cavallo), Dr. Manuel Albo 2741/207, Montevideo; tel. +598 2712-7086; e-mail: [email protected] or [email protected]; website: www.ccmsoluciones.com. If you’re relocating to Uruguay, you’ll likely be interested in the services of CCM Soluciones, especially if you don’t speak Spanish. They are a relocation assistance company, who can help you with any settling-in chores that you’re facing, from hooking up your phone, to getting your driver’s license, to finding an elementary school for the kids.

Tourism contacts Montevideo

• Centro de Informes Ministerio de Turismo, Colonia 1021, (street level), Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-9105, ext. 130. • Centro de Informes Ministerio de Turismo, Local T.12A, Tres Cruces Bus Terminal, Montevideo; tel. +598 2409-7399. • Modulo de información al Turista, 18 de Julio y Calle Ejido, Montevideo; tel. +598 2903-0649.

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• Uruguayan Chamber of Tourism, Martin C. Martinez 1865, Montevideo; tel. +598 2401-6013. Ciudad de la Costa

• Tourist Information, Aeropuerto Internacional de Carrasco; tel. +598 2604-0271 or +598 2604-0329.

Costa de Oro

• Minister of Turism Office, Km. 155, ruta 11, Atlántida Country Club, Atlántida; tel. +598 4372-2082. • Tourist Information Office, Calles Roger Ballet y Calle 18, Atlántida; tel. +598 4372-3104.

Piriápolis

• Asociación de Turismo, Rambla de los Argentinos, Piriápolis; tel. +598 4432-2560.

Punta del Este

• Bus Terminal of Maldonado, Sarandi y Avenida Roosevelt, Maldonado; tel. +598 4225-0490. • Information Center, Minister of Tourism, Gorlero 936, entre Calle 29 y 30, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-1218. • Parada 24, Las Delicias, Rambla C, Williman; tel. +598 4223-0050. • Plaza Artigas, Avenida Gorlero y Calle 25, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4222-6519.

José Ignacio

• Tourist Information, Plaza de Jose Ignacio; Mon.-Sun. 8 a.m. to midnight (high season)

Rocha

• Liga de Fomento y Turismo La Paloma, Ruta 15, Km. 0, La Paloma; tel. +598 4479-6088.

Mercedes

• Oficina de Turismo, Artigas 209, Plaza Independencia, Mercedes; tel. +598 4532-2733.

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• Oficina de Turismo, Mercedes Terminal Shopping Mall, Don Bosco 734 y Plaza General Artigas, Mercedes; tel. +598 4532-2733. Minas, Villa Serrana

• Oficina de Turismo, Batlle 465, Minas; tel. +598 4442-9796.

Treinta y Tres

• Oficina de Turismo, Zoologico Municipal, Leonardo Olivera y Lavalleja, Treinta y Tres.

Colonia

• Informacion Turistica, Manuel de Lobo, Barrio Histórico, Colonia; tel. +598 4552-8506. • Oficina de Turismo, Avenida General Flores Y Rivera, Colonia; tel. +598 4552-6141 or +598 4552-3700.

Fray Bentos

• Oficina de Turismo, 18 de Julio, Fray Bentos; tel. +598 4562-2233, ext. 138. • Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Avenida Treinta y Tres Orientales y Rincón, Museo Solari, Fray Bentos; tel. +598 4562-2233.

Paysandú

• Oficina de Turismo, 18 de Julio 1226, Paysandú; tel. +598 4722-6220. • Information Center, Minister of Turism, International Bridge General Artigas, Paysandú; tel. +598 4722-7574.

Salto

• Oficina de Turismo, Uruguay 1052, Salto; tel. +598 4733-4096. • Information Center, Minister of Tourism, International Bridge, Salto; tel. +598 4732-8933.

Translators (Certified Public) • Rosina Del Pino, Certified Public Translator, Fischer and Schickendantz; e-mail; [email protected]; website: www.fs.com.uy • Doris L. Hernández, Certified Public Translator, Salt Lake casi Mar de Coral, Chalet “Siete Mares”, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4225-0380; cell +598 9919-0201; e-mail: [email protected].

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Veterinarians Maldonado

• Clinica Veterinaria Sienra, Dr. Luis Enrique Sienra. Roman Guerra 721, Maldonado; tel. +598 4223-1258; e-mail: [email protected]. • Veterinaria San Martin, Dr. Diego San Martin, Dra Anna Raymondo, 3 de Febrero 646 and Rincon; tel. +598 4222-5995; e-mail: [email protected].

Montevideo

• Veterinaria De Boni, Carlos Quijano 1173, Centro, Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-3985.

Additional resources Here are some other references that I have found particularly useful when learning about Uruguay. • CIA World Factbook For general facts and information on Uruguay including economic stats, history, flag description, and population, see https://www.cia.gov/library/ publications/the-world-factbook/geos/uy.html. • The Southron’s Guide to Living in Uruguay, by R. David Finzer I consider this book absolutely indispensible for anyone who is seriously considering moving to Uruguay. It’s loaded with practical information and real facts about what it’s like to live here as a resident. And even if you weren’t moving to Uruguay, you’d enjoy this author’s brilliant, refreshing style, humor, and straightforward approach. It’s good reading. It’s available on www.Amazon.com. • Uruguayan National Statistics Institute (Instituto Nacional de Estadisticas): www.ine.gub.uy. The Uruguayan government maintains this site to display the official national statistics. It includes everything from rainfall to unemployment numbers. It’s in Spanish only. • Uruguay Total: www.uruguaytotal.com. This Spanish-language website has a huge directory of contacts and information. It’s organized by topic and easy to use.

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• Uruguayan Embassy, Washington, DC: www.uruwashi.org. This official website is a good source for Uruguayan news and government information. Some parts of the site are available in English. • UruguayUruguay.com: www.uruguayuruguay.com. Again, this English-language site has a lot of nooks and cranies where you can spend a few hours. It offers flags and maps, cultural tips, and info on everything from climate to football. • Uruguayinvest: www.uruguayinvest.com. This website has comprehensive information on doing business in or from Uruguay, plus, three very practical guides that you can download, on immigration, taxes, and purchasing real estate.

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APPENDIX B Three Unique Spanish Verb Inflections

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

APPENDIX B Three Unique Spanish Verb Inflections

The most peculiar oddity in Uruguayan Spanish that I’ve found is the conjugation of the second person singular (e.g., “you have”), the imperative (Stop!) and the subjunctive (not used in English). This is sometimes labeled the “Voceo” form of Spanish, but since Voceo has three major varieties with loads of variations within each, the term in itself is grammatically meaningless. With the second-person singular, the inflection is formed by taking the infinitive, dropping the final “r”, and adding an “s” with the accent on the last syllable. Verb

Infinitive

To have To stop To come To want

tener parar venir querer

Uruguayanpreferred tú tenés tú parás tú venís tú querés

Instead of this form tú tienes tú paras tú vienes tú quieres

But here’s an important exception: Verb

Infinitive

To be

Ser

Uruguayanpreferred tú sos

Instead of this form tú eres

Here’s how the imperative works. It’s almost the same as the second person singular above, but without the “s” at the end. Verb

Infinitive

Stop! Come!

parar venir

Uruguayanpreferred pará vení

Appendix B: Three Unique Spanish Verb Inflections

Instead of this form para venga

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And to wrap things up, there’s also a minor modification to the present subjunctive form. It’s just like the standard subjunctive, except with an accent on the last syllable. Verb

Infinitive

To speak To request

hablar pedir

Uruguayanpreferred que tú hablés que tú pidás

Instead of this form que tú hables que tú pidas

And of course, there will be exceptions. As I mentioned in Chapter Two, don’t worry about using these until you’re comfortable with them—you’ll be understood. But in the meantime, understanding how they work will help you to comprehend the spoken Spanish in Uruguay.

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

APPENDIX C Maps of Uruguay

Appendix C: Maps of Uruguay

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Uruguay: The Owner’s Manual

Appendix C: Maps of Uruguay

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