Trieste In Your Pocket

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TRiESTE 2013

45th Barc Barcolana olana Experience the largest  nautical event on the Adriatic

Mramare Castle One of Europe’s most romantic buildings is just outside of Trieste

N°2

Enjoy your  COMPLIMENTARY COPY of Trieste In Your Pocket 

Contents

ESSENTIAL

CITY

5

GUIDES

Contents In the News

7

Arrival & Transport

8

Buses, planes, trains and more

The Basics

9

Some useful info for travellers

Culture & Events

10

What to see and where to see it 

Where to stay

14 A rundown of Trieste’s ample accommodation

Where to Eat

18

Four-star fish to fresh fast food

Miramare Castle, the lighthouse, Piazza Unità, the Grand Canal and James Joyce - all of Trieste’s sights in one convenient location, photo by YMB

Cafés

24

The best of Italy and Vienna meet 

Nightlife

26 An easygoing town with plenty of places to drink 

What to See

28

The highlights of Trieste and the region

Shopping

35

Find everything you need or want 

Maps

40-41

City centre map

Con il patrocinio:

Concerts on Trieste’s Piazza Unità square are must see events if you’re in town for one, photo by Matteo Lavazza Seranto

trieste.inyourpocket.com

www.inyourpocket.com

2013

Contents

ESSENTIAL

CITY

5

GUIDES

Contents In the News

7

Arrival & Transport

8

Buses, planes, trains and more

The Basics

9

Some useful info for travellers

Culture & Events

10

What to see and where to see it 

Where to stay

14 A rundown of Trieste’s ample accommodation

Where to Eat

18

Four-star fish to fresh fast food

Miramare Castle, the lighthouse, Piazza Unità, the Grand Canal and James Joyce - all of Trieste’s sights in one convenient location, photo by YMB

Cafés

24

The best of Italy and Vienna meet 

Nightlife

26 An easygoing town with plenty of places to drink 

What to See

28

The highlights of Trieste and the region

Shopping

35

Find everything you need or want 

Maps

40-41

City centre map

Con il patrocinio:

Concerts on Trieste’s Piazza Unità square are must see events if you’re in town for one, photo by Matteo Lavazza Seranto

www.inyourpocket.com

2013

trieste.inyourpocket.com

6

in the news

Foreword After years of planning, research, long weekends and late nights we are extremely proud to finally present the first   full ed ition of Trieste In Your Pock et! Situate d a uniq ue and somewhat historically precarious position between Latin, Germanic and Slavic lands, Trieste is unlike any other city in the world, and is truly one of the most underrated and un fairly  overlooked places not only in Italy, but in all of Europe. While Rome, Florence and nearby Venice have been fixtures on the proverbial tourist map for centuries, in terms of cuisine, culture, castles and romance Trieste is second to none. Embraced by green hills on one side and the Mediterranean Sea on the other, with the snow-capped Dolomites piercing  the horizon to the north, no city can honestly claim to have a more majestic setting. After having served as the most important port and fourth largest city of the Habsburg Empire for some seven centuries, Trieste became part of Italy following World War I, spent  nearly a decade as an independe nt city state (the so-called Free Territory of Trieste) following World War II, and is now the capital and largest city of the Friuli Venezia Giulia autonomous region. The influence of Trieste’s Trieste’s Austro-Hungarian heritage is readily apparent nearly a hundred years after the downfall of the Habsburg monarchy, from the grand architecture lining  the main squares and boulevards to the buzz of the historic Viennese-style coffeehouses scattered across the city to the hearty central European cuisine and frothy Bavarian beer   found in co untless pub s. For all these reasons and more we’ve chosen Trieste as the  first of what will soon be many new Italian citie s to join the In Your Pocket family. On the pages of this guide you can find a carefully c hosen selection of whe re to stay, eat and shop, and the highlights of what to see and do in and around Trieste, while much more content can b e found on our website. Finally, we would like to extend our most sincere gratitud e to all the friendly, generous and welcoming Triestines, who have made us feel at home in our adopted city, and provided invaluable insider information while we were preparing  the guide. As always we also encourage and appreciate any and all feedback we receive from our readers, be it  on Facebook, Twitter, Foursquare, Pintrest or even old fashi oned emai l.

Publisher Trieste In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 / +393 28 083 1957  [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. [email protected] Sales Manager Eva Trinca [email protected], tel. +393 28 083 1957  ©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Printed Evrografis d.o.o. Published Three times per year 

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, James Cosier  Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photos Simone di Luca, Giuliana Birri, Marino S terle, Branka Jovanović, YMB Cover photo Marino Sterle

Sales & Circulation Eva Trinca, Irena Jamnikar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright  cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for  the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket  is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

Trieste IYP on Facebook

Trieste & Totò

Maps Cesar Tarabocchia

Europe In Your Pocket Northern Ireland

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Your Po cket

Georgia

It’s now 21 years since we published the first  In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest  publisher of locally produced city  guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent  Batumi , in Georgia, Georgia, the latest  (with Batumi, city to be pocketed ) and the number  of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your  Pocket guides published each year  million. We also is approaching five approaching five million. app , including  publish an iPhone app, more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore . Search for ‚IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at  In Your Pocket , like  us on Facebook (facebook.com/  inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

trieste inyourpo cket com

Can’t wait for the next issue of Trieste In Your Pocket? Visit our Facebook fan page to get your daily fix of snarky  comments, travel and entertainment news, restaurant  and nightlife tips, and lots more random Trieste-related Trieste-related info. Some of our regular features include polls on the best of what the city has to offer, date night recommendations. And if that’s not enough we also like to bribe our fans with things such as free restaurant vouchers, chocolate and concert tickets. Besides, who couldn’t use another excuse to waste time on time on the internet?

inyourpocket.com twitter.com/inyourpocket facebook.com/inyourpocket youtube.com/inyourpocket trieste.inyourpocket.com

Former footballer Totò De Falco has announced the release of his first book, titled 'Trieste & Totò: It's only  love', in September 2013. The legendar y Triestina striker writes about his love of his long-time home and his personal memories of living an playing in Trieste, accompanied by many never before published anecdotes and photos. Decades in the making, the book finally tells the full story of De Falco straight from the man himself. For more info you can chec k out the offici al TotòDe Falco  fan page on Face book.

2013

7

6

in the news

Foreword After years of planning, research, long weekends and late nights we are extremely proud to finally present the first   full ed ition of Trieste In Your Pock et! Situate d a uniq ue and somewhat historically precarious position between Latin, Germanic and Slavic lands, Trieste is unlike any other city in the world, and is truly one of the most underrated and un fairly  overlooked places not only in Italy, but in all of Europe. While Rome, Florence and nearby Venice have been fixtures on the proverbial tourist map for centuries, in terms of cuisine, culture, castles and romance Trieste is second to none. Embraced by green hills on one side and the Mediterranean Sea on the other, with the snow-capped Dolomites piercing  the horizon to the north, no city can honestly claim to have a more majestic setting. After having served as the most important port and fourth largest city of the Habsburg Empire for some seven centuries, Trieste became part of Italy following World War I, spent  nearly a decade as an independe nt city state (the so-called Free Territory of Trieste) following World War II, and is now the capital and largest city of the Friuli Venezia Giulia autonomous region. The influence of Trieste’s Trieste’s Austro-Hungarian heritage is readily apparent nearly a hundred years after the downfall of the Habsburg monarchy, from the grand architecture lining  the main squares and boulevards to the buzz of the historic Viennese-style coffeehouses scattered across the city to the hearty central European cuisine and frothy Bavarian beer   found in co untless pub s. For all these reasons and more we’ve chosen Trieste as the  first of what will soon be many new Italian citie s to join the In Your Pocket family. On the pages of this guide you can find a carefully c hosen selection of whe re to stay, eat and shop, and the highlights of what to see and do in and around Trieste, while much more content can b e found on our website. Finally, we would like to extend our most sincere gratitud e to all the friendly, generous and welcoming Triestines, who have made us feel at home in our adopted city, and provided invaluable insider information while we were preparing  the guide. As always we also encourage and appreciate any and all feedback we receive from our readers, be it  on Facebook, Twitter, Foursquare, Pintrest or even old fashi oned emai l.

7

Publisher Trieste In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 / +393 28 083 1957  [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. [email protected] Sales Manager Eva Trinca [email protected], tel. +393 28 083 1957  ©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Printed Evrografis d.o.o. Published Three times per year 

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, James Cosier  Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photos Simone di Luca, Giuliana Birri, Marino S terle, Branka Jovanović, YMB Cover photo Marino Sterle

Sales & Circulation Eva Trinca, Irena Jamnikar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright  cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for  the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket  is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

Trieste IYP on Facebook

Trieste & Totò

Maps Cesar Tarabocchia

Europe In Your Pocket Northern Ireland

Estonia

Ireland

Russia

Latvia Lithuania Belarus

Netherlands Poland Germany Belgium Czech Republic

Ukraine

Austria Romania Slovenia Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo

Switzerland

Georgia

FYR Macedonia

To keep up to date with all that’s new at  In Your Pocket , like  us on Facebook (facebook.com/  inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Albania Greece

Trieste In

8

It’s now 21 years since we published the first  In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest  publisher of locally produced city  guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent  Batumi , in Georgia, Georgia, the latest  (with Batumi, city to be pocketed ) and the number  of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your  Pocket guides published each year  million. We also is approaching five approaching five million. app , including  publish an iPhone app, more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore . Search for ‚IYP Guides’ by name.

Your Po cket

trieste.inyourpo cket.com

Can’t wait for the next issue of Trieste In Your Pocket? Visit our Facebook fan page to get your daily fix of snarky  comments, travel and entertainment news, restaurant  and nightlife tips, and lots more random Trieste-related Trieste-related info. Some of our regular features include polls on the best of what the city has to offer, date night recommendations. And if that’s not enough we also like to bribe our fans with things such as free restaurant vouchers, chocolate and concert tickets. Besides, who couldn’t use another excuse to waste time on time on the internet?

inyourpocket.com twitter.com/inyourpocket facebook.com/inyourpocket youtube.com/inyourpocket

Former footballer Totò De Falco has announced the release of his first book, titled 'Trieste & Totò: It's only  love', in September 2013. The legendar y Triestina striker writes about his love of his long-time home and his personal memories of living an playing in Trieste, accompanied by many never before published anecdotes and photos. Decades in the making, the book finally tells the full story of De Falco straight from the man himself. For more info you can chec k out the offici al TotòDe Falco  fan page on Face book.

2013

trieste.inyourpocket.com

ArrivAl Arriv Al & TrAnsporT Public Transpor Transpor t  Public Transport www.triestetrasporti.it. Trieste and its outskirts are well-covered by an extensive network of  some 50 bus lines that ply seemingly every street, from major thoroughfares to impossibly narrow lanes with double parked cars in the historic centre. That said, the cit y and most  major tourist sights can easily be covered on foot, depending  on the weather of course. A single tramway line also makes the slow scenic journey from Piazza Oberdan all the way up to Villa Opicina in the hills overlooking the sea, still using the restored original tram cars from 1935. Q Tickets must be bought in advance and must b e validated once on board. They  cost €1.25/4.15 for one-way/daily, and can be found a t most  newsagent’s, tobacconist’s and some cafés.

Basics Opening Hours

Taxis Alabarda Tel. +39 040 390 039. Radio Taxi Trieste Tel. +39 040 307730, www. radiotaxitrieste.it.

Taxi Aeroporto FVG Tel. +39 0481 778 000, info@ taxiaeroportofvg.it, www.taxiaeroportofvg.it.

Money  Italy was one of the original 11 EU member states to adopt the euro alongside its own currency (the Italian lira with an exchange rate of just over 1936 lira to 1 euro) on 1 January 1999, with the euro of ficially  replacing the lira for cash transactions on 1 January  2002. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. Italian euro coins all feature famous works of art from Italian artists or monuments, such as Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man (€1), Sandra Botticelli’s Birth of Venus (€0.10), (€0.10), and the Colosseum in Rome (€0.05).

Trains Trenitalia Ticket Services Centre E-1, Piazza Libertà 8, tel. +39 313 811 0813/+39 040 44 114, fa x +39 040 425 032, [email protected], www.trenitalia. it. The friendly multi-lingual staff at the Trenitalia office in the central railway station can help organise individual and group travel, book tickets for high speed trains, sleepers and international journeys, and explain all the different options available for getting you where you need to go. It’s also possible to book tickets over the phone with a credit card, and have them posted to you. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 13:00-16:15. Trieste Centrale E-1, Piazza LIbertà, www.trenitalia. com. Trieste’s cent ral train station was opened in 1857 upon the completion of th e famed Vienna-Trieste railway line, while the bright yellow Neo-Renaissance structure that can be seen today dates from 1878. The facilities were renovated and expanded in 2007, and now include a supermarket, bookshop, pharmacy and other shops, as well as a special lounge for Eurostar passengers. There are frequent direct  links to most major Italian cities, and many more domestic destinations are available via connections in Venice. Internationally, direct connections are possible to many German and Austrian cities, as well as Zagreb, Budapest, Bucharest  and Moscow to the east.

Smoking 

Trieste’s famous covered market, Mercato Coperto, photo by Simone di Luca

Smoking is banned in all public places in Italy, and Trieste Trieste is no exception. A handful of bars and ca fés have separate indoor smoking rooms, but otherwise if you need to light up you’ll find plenty of company outside most  establishments. According to the most recent reports, an estimated 32 per cent of men and 19 per cent of women smoke in Italy.

Car Rental

Drinking 

Hertz C-4, Molo Bersaglieri 3, tel. +39 040 322 0098,

In Trieste, as in the much of the rest of Italy, drinking  alcohol is a fairly widespread practice, with most meals not only accompanied by a glass or more of wine, but  aperitifs and digestifs being almost as indispensable as other courses. The legal drinking age in Italy is 16, so don’t be surprised to see rather young-looking 

fax +39 040 322 4982, www.hertz.it. Maggiore Rent F-2, Via Martiri della Libertà 8, tel. +39 040 421323, www.maggiore.it. Sixt Aeroporto Ronchi Dei Legionari, tel. +39 0481 774 836, www.sixt.it.

Air Travel

During Barcolana each October the most popular way of  getting to Trieste is by sailboat  Trieste In

Your Po cket

In Trieste post offices, banks and offices usually open around 08:30 in the morning, while most shops and cultural institutions open at 09:00. All but the latter  close from 13:00 to 15:00 (give or take 30 minutes)  for l unc h, an d the n reo pen unti l 16:0 0 (b anks) or 19 :30 (shops). Virtually all restaurants in town are open for  lunch (12:00-15:00) and dinner (19:00-23:00), (19:00-23:00), but not  in between. Be aware that both opening hours and days can also vary greatly between summer and winter  seasons.

Trieste-FVG Airpor t Tel. +39 0481 773 224, www. aeroporto.fvg.it. The Trieste - Friuli Venezia Giulia Airport  (TRS) is located some 40km north of Trieste near the town of Ronchi dei Legionari. The trip takes 30-40 minutes by car, and there are also frequent buses to Trieste and elsewhere in the region. Tickets can be bought from a 24-hour automated machine, or from the TurismoFVG office in the arrivals hall, which can also provide tourist info (including copies of this guide) and sells the FVG Card. The national carrier Alitalia operates the majority of flights, but in recent years there has also been a large increase in the presence of budget airlines, especially during the summer season. Alitalia Airlines Ronchi dei Legionari, tel. +39 0481 77 32 32, www.alitalia.com. Italy’s much maligned and perpetually bankrupt nati onal carrier still offers the most flight  into and out of Trieste Airport, as well as the most extensive network of connections through either Milan or Rome for  international flights. Lacking a branch in Trieste proper, the nearest location is at the airport, so booking a ticket online or over the phone is the best option. QOpen 06:00 - 12:30, 13:10-19:00. trieste inyourpo cket com

National Holidays The following dates are all work-free public holidays in Trieste, Trieste, meaning you can expect most offices, shops and cultural institutions to be closed.

1 January - New Year’s Day  6 January - Epiphany  Mon after Easter - Easter Monday  25 April - Liberation Day  1 May - International Workers’ Day  2 June - Republic Day  15 August - Assumption Day  1 November - All Saints’ Day  3 November - Feast Day of Saint Justus 8 December - Immaculate Conception 25 December - Christmas Day  26 December - St Stephen’s Day 

trieste.inyourpocket.com

Trieste Mayor Roberto Cosolini poses with his copies of  our first issue of Trieste In Your Pocket, and was also kind enough to sit down with us for an interview about his hometown earlier this summer 

Exchange rates 1 EUR € = 1.33 US$ = 0.86 UK£ = 1.23 CHF = 8.14 CNY = 131 ¥ = 114 дин = 44 руб (30 July 2013)

locals carrying around open beer bottles or drinking  other mixed concoctions from plastic bottles late into the night. While most cafés and bars do not keep ‘happy hours’ per se, many do offer free snacks with drinks during the evenings.

Mobile Phones Thanks to the ongoing regulatory regulatory efforts at the EU-level (and much to the chagrin of telecom operators), operators), mobile phone roaming rates are now capped across all EU member states including Italy, which means that as of 1 July 2013 you can expect to pay only €0.24 per  minute for outgoing calls, €0.07 per minute for incoming calls and €0.08 per sms sent. If you’re planning  to spend a longer period of time in the country and/  or make a significant amount of local calls, buying an Italian SIM card could be a more economical option, especially for mobile internet usage. They can be purchased from any phone shop starting at around €10, and require a passport for registration.

Safety  Trieste is a relatively safe city by European standards, and you shouldn’t have any problems if you take the same reasonable precautions that would elsewhere (eg pay extra attention to your valuables in crowded places, don’t walk alone late at night, etc). As is the case throughout Europe, the general emergency  number is 112, with calls being answered almost immediately by operators who can speak Italian, English, German, French and Slovenian. 2013

9

8

ArrivAl Arriv Al & TrAnsporT Public Transpor Transpor t  Public Transport www.triestetrasporti.it. Trieste and its outskirts are well-covered by an extensive network of  some 50 bus lines that ply seemingly every street, from major thoroughfares to impossibly narrow lanes with double parked cars in the historic centre. That said, the cit y and most  major tourist sights can easily be covered on foot, depending  on the weather of course. A single tramway line also makes the slow scenic journey from Piazza Oberdan all the way up to Villa Opicina in the hills overlooking the sea, still using the restored original tram cars from 1935. Q Tickets must be bought in advance and must b e validated once on board. They  cost €1.25/4.15 for one-way/daily, and can be found a t most  newsagent’s, tobacconist’s and some cafés.

Basics Opening Hours

Taxis Alabarda Tel. +39 040 390 039. Radio Taxi Trieste Tel. +39 040 307730, www. radiotaxitrieste.it.

Taxi Aeroporto FVG Tel. +39 0481 778 000, info@ taxiaeroportofvg.it, www.taxiaeroportofvg.it.

Italy was one of the original 11 EU member states to adopt the euro alongside its own currency (the Italian lira with an exchange rate of just over 1936 lira to 1 euro) on 1 January 1999, with the euro of ficially  replacing the lira for cash transactions on 1 January  2002. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. Italian euro coins all feature famous works of art from Italian artists or monuments, such as Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man (€1), Sandra Botticelli’s Birth of Venus (€0.10), (€0.10), and the Colosseum in Rome (€0.05).

Trenitalia Ticket Services Centre E-1, Piazza Libertà

Smoking 

Trieste’s famous covered market, Mercato Coperto, photo by Simone di Luca

Smoking is banned in all public places in Italy, and Trieste Trieste is no exception. A handful of bars and ca fés have separate indoor smoking rooms, but otherwise if you need to light up you’ll find plenty of company outside most  establishments. According to the most recent reports, an estimated 32 per cent of men and 19 per cent of women smoke in Italy.

Car Rental

Drinking 

Hertz C-4, Molo Bersaglieri 3, tel. +39 040 322 0098,

In Trieste, as in the much of the rest of Italy, drinking  alcohol is a fairly widespread practice, with most meals not only accompanied by a glass or more of wine, but  aperitifs and digestifs being almost as indispensable as other courses. The legal drinking age in Italy is 16, so don’t be surprised to see rather young-looking 

fax +39 040 322 4982, www.hertz.it. Maggiore Rent F-2, Via Martiri della Libertà 8, tel. +39 040 421323, www.maggiore.it. Sixt Aeroporto Ronchi Dei Legionari, tel. +39 0481 774 836, www.sixt.it.

Air Travel

During Barcolana each October the most popular way of  getting to Trieste is by sailboat  Trieste In

10

In Trieste post offices, banks and offices usually open around 08:30 in the morning, while most shops and cultural institutions open at 09:00. All but the latter  close from 13:00 to 15:00 (give or take 30 minutes)  for l unc h, an d the n reo pen unti l 16:0 0 (b anks) or 19 :30 (shops). Virtually all restaurants in town are open for  lunch (12:00-15:00) and dinner (19:00-23:00), (19:00-23:00), but not  in between. Be aware that both opening hours and days can also vary greatly between summer and winter  seasons.

Money 

Trains 8, tel. +39 313 811 0813/+39 040 44 114, fa x +39 040 425 032, [email protected], www.trenitalia. it. The friendly multi-lingual staff at the Trenitalia office in the central railway station can help organise individual and group travel, book tickets for high speed trains, sleepers and international journeys, and explain all the different options available for getting you where you need to go. It’s also possible to book tickets over the phone with a credit card, and have them posted to you. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 13:00-16:15. Trieste Centrale E-1, Piazza LIbertà, www.trenitalia. com. Trieste’s cent ral train station was opened in 1857 upon the completion of th e famed Vienna-Trieste railway line, while the bright yellow Neo-Renaissance structure that can be seen today dates from 1878. The facilities were renovated and expanded in 2007, and now include a supermarket, bookshop, pharmacy and other shops, as well as a special lounge for Eurostar passengers. There are frequent direct  links to most major Italian cities, and many more domestic destinations are available via connections in Venice. Internationally, direct connections are possible to many German and Austrian cities, as well as Zagreb, Budapest, Bucharest  and Moscow to the east.

Trieste-FVG Airpor t Tel. +39 0481 773 224, www. aeroporto.fvg.it. The Trieste - Friuli Venezia Giulia Airport  (TRS) is located some 40km north of Trieste near the town of Ronchi dei Legionari. The trip takes 30-40 minutes by car, and there are also frequent buses to Trieste and elsewhere in the region. Tickets can be bought from a 24-hour automated machine, or from the TurismoFVG office in the arrivals hall, which can also provide tourist info (including copies of this guide) and sells the FVG Card. The national carrier Alitalia operates the majority of flights, but in recent years there has also been a large increase in the presence of budget airlines, especially during the summer season. Alitalia Airlines Ronchi dei Legionari, tel. +39 0481 77 32 32, www.alitalia.com. Italy’s much maligned and perpetually bankrupt nati onal carrier still offers the most flight  into and out of Trieste Airport, as well as the most extensive network of connections through either Milan or Rome for  international flights. Lacking a branch in Trieste proper, the nearest location is at the airport, so booking a ticket online or over the phone is the best option. QOpen 06:00 - 12:30, 13:10-19:00.

Your Po cket

trieste.inyourpo cket.com

National Holidays The following dates are all work-free public holidays in Trieste, Trieste, meaning you can expect most offices, shops and cultural institutions to be closed.

1 January - New Year’s Day  6 January - Epiphany  Mon after Easter - Easter Monday  25 April - Liberation Day  1 May - International Workers’ Day  2 June - Republic Day  15 August - Assumption Day  1 November - All Saints’ Day  3 November - Feast Day of Saint Justus 8 December - Immaculate Conception 25 December - Christmas Day  26 December - St Stephen’s Day 

trieste.inyourpocket.com

Culture Cul ture & events Le Vie Delle Foto

05.10 Saturday - 13.10 Sunday Barcolana 

01.10 Tuesday - 31.10 Thursday

11.10 Friday - 13.10 Sunday Prosecco: Bubbling Style on Show  Trieste Stazione Marittima, tel. +39 040 670 1240, [email protected], www.proseccoshow.it. The dry sparkling wine known as Prosecco, or Italy’s answer to Champagne, willll be the star attraction of a festival held in its honour for the second year in a row. Organised to coincide with the annual Barcolana extravaganza and related festivities in October, the Prosecco Show will see producers, professionals and the public descend on the Maritime Station along  Trieste’s waterfront for three days of tastings, networking, meetings, workshops and more. While admission to the first 

Trieste Mayor Roberto Cosolini poses with his copies of  our first issue of Trieste In Your Pocket, and was also kind enough to sit down with us for an interview about his hometown earlier this summer 

Exchange rates 1 EUR € = 1.33 US$ = 0.86 UK£ = 1.23 CHF = 8.14 CNY = 131 ¥ = 114 дин = 44 руб (30 July 2013)

locals carrying around open beer bottles or drinking  other mixed concoctions from plastic bottles late into the night. While most cafés and bars do not keep ‘happy hours’ per se, many do offer free snacks with drinks during the evenings.

Mobile Phones Thanks to the ongoing regulatory regulatory efforts at the EU-level (and much to the chagrin of telecom operators), operators), mobile phone roaming rates are now capped across all EU member states including Italy, which means that as of 1 July 2013 you can expect to pay only €0.24 per  minute for outgoing calls, €0.07 per minute for incoming calls and €0.08 per sms sent. If you’re planning  to spend a longer period of time in the country and/  or make a significant amount of local calls, buying an Italian SIM card could be a more economical option, especially for mobile internet usage. They can be purchased from any phone shop starting at around €10, and require a passport for registration.

Safety  Trieste is a relatively safe city by European standards, and you shouldn’t have any problems if you take the same reasonable precautions that would elsewhere (eg pay extra attention to your valuables in crowded places, don’t walk alone late at night, etc). As is the case throughout Europe, the general emergency  number is 112, with calls being answered almost immediately by operators who can speak Italian, English, German, French and Slovenian. 2013

Culture & events

Events Tel. +39 040 411664, fax +39 040 413838, [email protected],w ww.barcolana.it. ww.barcolana.it.The annual Barcolana Regatta is undoubtedly Trieste’s biggest event of the year, both in terms of the competition i tself, as well as the week-long programme of water- and land-based sport, entertainment and cultural activiti es that attract thousands of visitors every October. Beginning as an informal race amongst locals to mark the end of  the sailing season, the first Barcolana in 1969 had a total of 51  participants. Now in its 44th year, year, the event attracts well over  2,000 boats to the Gulf of Trieste, making it the m ost crowded event of its kind in the Mediterranean, and transforming the city to the unofficial sailing capital of Europe. An event that truly  must be experienced to be believed, if you ever have the opportunity to make it to Trieste in mid-October, take it! Just make sure to book your accommodation well in advance. More info  for visitorsand participants, including a full schedule of events, can be found on the official Barcolana website.

Various Venues, tel. +39 345 2911 405, info@ leviedellefoto.it, www. leviedellefoto.it.One boring day in July several years ago, some local photographers in Trieste came up with the idea of developing  an exhibition that would be both largest the city had ever seen but also completely unique in its format. The project they came up with is Le Vie Delle Foto (the Way of the Photos), which is now in its third year, and will see some 50 photographers staging simultaneous exhibitions at 50 different venues across the city, making the pathway for visiting them all part of the exhibition itself. The network of exhibition spaces includes bars, cafés and hotels covers the entire city cen tre, with printed and digital maps available, as well as guided weekly tours. The individual exhibitions are not  tied together by any mandatory topicss, instead instead the artists have been left to explore new themes and thinking  in order to create the most innovative shows possible. See the official website (in English) for more info on the project, the venues and the photographers.

two days of the event are limited to professional attendees (and, lucky for us, press!), the final day is open to the general public. Most exhibitors will of course be presenting various Prosecco varieties, but producers from the Karst will also be hand with other t ypical regional regional wines. Produced in the Friuli Venezia Giulia and Veneto regions, in 2009 Prosecco was finally given DOCG protected status, which means its production is not only strictly limited in terms of geography  and methods used (like DOC products), but the wine must  also pass a series of rigorous taste tests and analyses.

07.03 Friday - 10.03 Monday Olio Capitale  Trieste Stazio ne Marittima, tel. +39 040 670 1240, info@ oliocapitale.it, www.oliocapitale.it. Each spring Trieste hosts one of Europe’s premier specialty culinary events - the Olio Capitale, a trade expo and public fair dedicated to top quality extra-virgin olive oil. Hundreds of exhibitors from every  corner of Italy (as well as some neighbouring countries) bring  their products to town, both to present them to a wider public audience and to further their businesses through the various suppliers, restauranteurs and other professionals in attendance. Visitors can participate in guided tastings, attend olive oil classes, and listen to informational sessions. In short, the event is an olive oil lover’s dream come true, which is why you can find us here ever y year. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

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Culture Cul ture & events

Culture & events

Events

Le Vie Delle Foto

05.10 Saturday - 13.10 Sunday Barcolana 

01.10 Tuesday - 31.10 Thursday

Tel. +39 040 411664, fax +39 040 413838, [email protected],w ww.barcolana.it. ww.barcolana.it.The annual Barcolana Regatta is undoubtedly Trieste’s biggest event of the year, both in terms of the competition i tself, as well as the week-long programme of water- and land-based sport, entertainment and cultural activiti es that attract thousands of visitors every October. Beginning as an informal race amongst locals to mark the end of  the sailing season, the first Barcolana in 1969 had a total of 51  participants. Now in its 44th year, year, the event attracts well over  2,000 boats to the Gulf of Trieste, making it the m ost crowded event of its kind in the Mediterranean, and transforming the city to the unofficial sailing capital of Europe. An event that truly  must be experienced to be believed, if you ever have the opportunity to make it to Trieste in mid-October, take it! Just make sure to book your accommodation well in advance. More info  for visitorsand participants, including a full schedule of events, can be found on the official Barcolana website.

11.10 Friday - 13.10 Sunday Prosecco: Bubbling Style on Show  Trieste Stazione Marittima, tel. +39 040 670 1240, [email protected], www.proseccoshow.it. The dry sparkling wine known as Prosecco, or Italy’s answer to Champagne, willll be the star attraction of a festival held in its honour for the second year in a row. Organised to coincide with the annual Barcolana extravaganza and related festivities in October, the Prosecco Show will see producers, professionals and the public descend on the Maritime Station along  Trieste’s waterfront for three days of tastings, networking, meetings, workshops and more. While admission to the first 

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Various Venues, tel. +39 345 2911 405, info@ leviedellefoto.it, www. leviedellefoto.it.One boring day in July several years ago, some local photographers in Trieste came up with the idea of developing  an exhibition that would be both largest the city had ever seen but also completely unique in its format. The project they came up with is Le Vie Delle Foto (the Way of the Photos), which is now in its third year, and will see some 50 photographers staging simultaneous exhibitions at 50 different venues across the city, making the pathway for visiting them all part of the exhibition itself. The network of exhibition spaces includes bars, cafés and hotels covers the entire city cen tre, with printed and digital maps available, as well as guided weekly tours. The individual exhibitions are not  tied together by any mandatory topicss, instead instead the artists have been left to explore new themes and thinking  in order to create the most innovative shows possible. See the official website (in English) for more info on the project, the venues and the photographers.

two days of the event are limited to professional attendees (and, lucky for us, press!), the final day is open to the general public. Most exhibitors will of course be presenting various Prosecco varieties, but producers from the Karst will also be hand with other t ypical regional regional wines. Produced in the Friuli Venezia Giulia and Veneto regions, in 2009 Prosecco was finally given DOCG protected status, which means its production is not only strictly limited in terms of geography  and methods used (like DOC products), but the wine must  also pass a series of rigorous taste tests and analyses.

07.03 Friday - 10.03 Monday Olio Capitale  Trieste Stazio ne Marittima, tel. +39 040 670 1240, info@ oliocapitale.it, www.oliocapitale.it. Each spring Trieste hosts one of Europe’s premier specialty culinary events - the Olio Capitale, a trade expo and public fair dedicated to top quality extra-virgin olive oil. Hundreds of exhibitors from every  corner of Italy (as well as some neighbouring countries) bring  their products to town, both to present them to a wider public audience and to further their businesses through the various suppliers, restauranteurs and other professionals in attendance. Visitors can participate in guided tastings, attend olive oil classes, and listen to informational sessions. In short, the event is an olive oil lover’s dream come true, which is why you can find us here ever y year. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

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Culture & events

Culture & events Up Museo dell’ Ex Lavatoio di San Giacomo Via

Friuli Venezia Giulia - Events 2013/14 SEPTEMBER Friuli Doc Pordenone Legge . it Half Marathon Città di Udine

Udine Pordenone Udine

San Giacomo in Monte 9, tel. +39 340 792 9694, info@ exlavatoio.it, www.exlavatoio.it. www.comune.udine.it  www.pordenonelegge.it  www.maratoninadiudine.it  www.maratoninadiudine.it 

OCTOBER Days of the silent cinema Barcolan a Latin American Festival Pumpkin Festival Trieste Trieste Science+Fiction

Pordenone Trieste Trieste Venzone Trieste

www.giornatedelcinemamuto.it  www.giornatedelcinemamuto .it  www.barcol ana.it  www.cinelatinotrieste.org  www.cinelatinotrieste.org  www.prolocovenzone.it  www.prolocovenzone.it  www.scienceplusfiction.org 

NOVEMBER Trieste Antiqu a Ein Prosit Chocofest

Trieste Tavisio Gradisca d’Isonzo

www.trieste antiqua. it  www.einprosi t.org  www.chocofest.it 

DECEMBER Christmas Cribs at The Villa Christmas in the wine cellars

Villa Manin - Passariano di Codroipo various locations

www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.mtvfriulivg.it 

JANUARY Epiphany of Friuli Epiphany of the Thaler Mass of the broadsword Trieste Film Festival

Tarcento Gemona del Friuli Cividale del Friuli Trieste

IAT Tarcento Tel. +39 0432 780674 www.prolocogemona.it  www.prolocogemona.it  www.cividale.net  www.trieste filmfe stival.it 

MARCH Carnival of Muggia Carnival of Resia Capital Oil Dedica Festival

Muggia Resia Trieste Pordenone

www.carnevaldemuja.com www.resianet.org  www.resianet.org  www.olioca pitale.i t  www.dedicafestival.it 

APRIL/MAY Far East Film Festival Bavisela Sapori Pro Loco Cantine Aperte

Udine Trieste/ Gradisc a d’Isonzo Villa Manin - Passariano di Codroipo various locations

www.fareastfilm.com www.bavise la.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.mtvfriulivg.it 

www.prosciuttosandaniele.com www.prosciuttosandaniele.com www.grado.info www.maremetraggio.it  www.maremetraggio.it 

JULY Sauris Ham festival Folkest Seghizzi in the Region Sexto ‘Nplugged Stazione di Topolò Mittelfest

Sauris Spilimbergo and other localities Gorizia Sesto al Reghena Grimacc o - Hamlet of Topolò Cividale del Friuli

www.sauris.org  www.sauris.org  www.folkest.com www.folkest.com www.seghizzi.it  www.sextonplugged.it  www.sextonplugged.it  www.stazio neditopol o.it  www.mittelfest.org 

AUGUST Calici di stelle Folklore at the villa Re-enactment of the Macia Pordenone Blues Festival Alpe Adria Puppet Festival Palio of San Donato World Folklore Festival

various locations Villa Manin - Passariano di Codroipo Spilimbergo Pordenone Aquileia - Grado Cividale del Friuli Gorizia

www.mtvfriulivg.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.prospilimbergo.it  www.prospilimbergo.it  www.pordenonebluesfestival.com www.pordenonebluesfestiva l.com www.ctagorizia.it  www.ctagorizia.it  www.paliodicividale.it  http://festivalfolkgo.interfree.it  /festivalfolkgo.interfree.it 

For more info on events throughout the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia see www.turismofvg.it

Your Po cket

Cinemas

Theatres

The good news is that Trieste has lots of cinemas both large and small, however, the bad news (for non-Italian speakers at least) is that virtually all international films are dubbed in Italian. If you’re a fan the Hollywood blockbusters that tend to have more explosions than dialogue than perhaps this won’t matter. Otherwise, check with the tourist office to see if one of the city’s annual international film festivals are taking place while you’re in town.

Il Rossetti - Teatro Stabile del Friuli Venezia Giulia

Ambasciatore Cinema Viale XX Settembre 35, tel. +39 040 662424, www.triestecinema.it. Cinecity Art & Cinemas Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 23, Centro Commerciale Le Torri d’Europa, tel. 892 111, [email protected], www. thespacecinema.it. Cinema Ariston Viale Romolo Gessi 14, tel. +39 040 304 222, www.aristontrieste.it. Cinema Fellini Viale XX Settembre 37, tel. +39 040 636 495, www.triestecinema.it. Cinema Nazionale Via XX Settembre 30, tel. +39 040 635 163, www.triestecinema.it. Giotto Multiplex Via Giotto 8, tel. +39 040 637 636, www.triestecinema.it.

Viale XX Settembre 45, tel. +39 040 3593511, info@ ilrossetti.it, www.ilrossetti.it. La Contrada - Teatro Stabile di TriesteVia del Ghirlandaio 12, tel. +39 040 948471, contrada@contrada. it, www.contrada.it. Teatro Miela Piazza Duca degli Abruz zi 3, tel. +39 040 365119, [email protected], www.miela.it. Teatro San Giovanni Via San Cilino 99/1, tel. +39 040 351330, [email protected], www.patteatro.it.

Teatro Stabile Slovenian (Slovensko Gledališče) Via Petronio 4, tel. +39 040 632664/+39 040 362 542, [email protected], www.teaterssg.it. Teatro Verdi Trieste D-4, Riva 3 Novembre 1, tel. +39 040 672 2111, [email protected], www.teatroverdi-trieste.com. Trieste’s glorious opera house was modelled on the famed La Scala in Milan and  first open ed in 1801. Like man y of th e cit y’s most notable buildings, and inde ed the Trieste itself, Teatro Verdi has experienced various name and structural changes over the centuries, finally settling on the formal title Teatro Lirco Guiseppe Verdi in 1901, just hours after the great composer’s death. Theatre Silvio Pellico Via Ananian 5, tel. +39 040 393478, [email protected], www.teatroarmonia.it.

Museums & Galleries

JUNE / JULY Aria di Festa San Daniele Grado Festival ospiti d’autore Grado Maremetraggio Trieste

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Castello di San Giusto Museum Piazza della Cattedrale 3, tel. +39 040 30 93 62, [email protected], www.castellodisangiustotrieste.it.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission €6, reduced price €4, castle only €1. Joyce Museum Via Madonna del Mare 13/2, tel. +39 040 675 8182, [email protected], www. museojoycetrieste.it. Q Open 09:00-13:00, Thu 09:0013:00, 15:00-19:00. Admission free. Lapidario Tergestino Piazza della Cattedrale 3, tel. +39 040 309362, [email protected], www. retecivica.trieste.it.Q Open 09:00-19:00 (1 Apr - 31  Oct), 09:00-13:00 (1 Nov - 31 Mar). Admission €6, reduced price €4. Lux Art Gallery Via Cecilia De Rittmeyer 7d, tel. +39 040 307321/+39 335 675 0946. Museum of History and Art Piazza della Cattedrale 1, tel. +39 040 310 500, [email protected], www. museostoriaeartetrieste.it.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5, reduced price €3. Museum of Oriental Art Palazzetto Leo, Via San Sebastiano 1, tel. +39 040 675 4068, [email protected], [email protected], www.museoarteorientaletrieste.it. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €3. Palazzo Gopcevich Via Rossini 4, tel. +39 040 675 4072. Revoltella Museum Via Diaz 27, tel. +39 040 675 4350, [email protected] [email protected], .it, www.museorevoltella.it. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission  €7, reduce d price €5. Sala Arturo Fittke Piazza Piccola 3. Salone degli Incanti Riva Nazario Sauro 1, tel. +39 040 322 6862, [email protected], www.retecivica.trieste.it. Svevo Museum Via Madonna del Mare 13/2, tel. +39 040 675 8182, [email protected]. it, www.retecivica.trieste.it. Q Open 09:00-13:00, Thu 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00. Admission free.

trieste.inyourpocket.com

An impromptu midnight trumpet serenade on Molo Audace pier, photo by Mario Fragiacomo 2013

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Culture & events

Culture & events Up Museo dell’ Ex Lavatoio di San Giacomo Via

Friuli Venezia Giulia - Events 2013/14 SEPTEMBER Friuli Doc Pordenone Legge . it Half Marathon Città di Udine

Udine Pordenone Udine

San Giacomo in Monte 9, tel. +39 340 792 9694, info@ exlavatoio.it, www.exlavatoio.it. www.comune.udine.it  www.pordenonelegge.it  www.maratoninadiudine.it  www.maratoninadiudine.it 

OCTOBER Days of the silent cinema Barcolan a Latin American Festival Pumpkin Festival Trieste Trieste Science+Fiction

Pordenone Trieste Trieste Venzone Trieste

www.giornatedelcinemamuto.it  www.giornatedelcinemamuto .it  www.barcol ana.it  www.cinelatinotrieste.org  www.cinelatinotrieste.org  www.prolocovenzone.it  www.prolocovenzone.it  www.scienceplusfiction.org 

NOVEMBER Trieste Antiqu a Ein Prosit Chocofest

Trieste Tavisio Gradisca d’Isonzo

www.trieste antiqua. it  www.einprosi t.org  www.chocofest.it 

DECEMBER Christmas Cribs at The Villa Christmas in the wine cellars

Villa Manin - Passariano di Codroipo various locations

www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.mtvfriulivg.it 

JANUARY Epiphany of Friuli Epiphany of the Thaler Mass of the broadsword Trieste Film Festival

Tarcento Gemona del Friuli Cividale del Friuli Trieste

IAT Tarcento Tel. +39 0432 780674 www.prolocogemona.it  www.prolocogemona.it  www.cividale.net  www.trieste filmfe stival.it 

MARCH Carnival of Muggia Carnival of Resia Capital Oil Dedica Festival

Muggia Resia Trieste Pordenone

www.carnevaldemuja.com www.resianet.org  www.resianet.org  www.olioca pitale.i t  www.dedicafestival.it 

APRIL/MAY Far East Film Festival Bavisela Sapori Pro Loco Cantine Aperte

Udine Trieste/ Gradisc a d’Isonzo Villa Manin - Passariano di Codroipo various locations

www.fareastfilm.com www.bavise la.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.mtvfriulivg.it 

www.prosciuttosandaniele.com www.prosciuttosandaniele.com www.grado.info www.maremetraggio.it  www.maremetraggio.it 

JULY Sauris Ham festival Folkest Seghizzi in the Region Sexto ‘Nplugged Stazione di Topolò Mittelfest

Sauris Spilimbergo and other localities Gorizia Sesto al Reghena Grimacc o - Hamlet of Topolò Cividale del Friuli

www.sauris.org  www.sauris.org  www.folkest.com www.folkest.com www.seghizzi.it  www.sextonplugged.it  www.sextonplugged.it  www.stazio neditopol o.it  www.mittelfest.org 

AUGUST Calici di stelle Folklore at the villa Re-enactment of the Macia Pordenone Blues Festival Alpe Adria Puppet Festival Palio of San Donato World Folklore Festival

various locations Villa Manin - Passariano di Codroipo Spilimbergo Pordenone Aquileia - Grado Cividale del Friuli Gorizia

www.mtvfriulivg.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.prolocoregionefvg.it  www.prospilimbergo.it  www.prospilimbergo.it  www.pordenonebluesfestival.com www.pordenonebluesfestiva l.com www.ctagorizia.it  www.ctagorizia.it  www.paliodicividale.it  http://festivalfolkgo.interfree.it  /festivalfolkgo.interfree.it 

For more info on events throughout the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia see www.turismofvg.it

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Where to stay Hotels

Symbol key

Albergo Alla Posta F-1/2, Piazza Oberdan 1, tel. +39 040 36 52 08, [email protected], www.albergopostatrieste.it. A good option if you like to be central but don’t need to be right in the heart of the city; the Alla Posta is located on a busy square a 10-minute walk from Piazza dell’Uni tà d’Italia, at the historic Opicina Tram Terminus. The décor is a hybrid of classic and modern, with a high grade finish and very good room facilities including minibars and marble bathrooms/hydromassage baths in some. Breakfast is fresh, the staff helpful and prices reasonable. Q 47 rooms (singles €70-110, doubles €98-170, suites  €225-260).  €225-260). Lower Lower rates only available available for for weekend stays. stays. Pets charged €15/night. P6UW

P Air conditioning 

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly 

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet 

L Guarded parking 

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant 

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly 

W Wi-Fi connection

Best Western Hotel San Giusto G-6, Via dell’Istria 7, tel. +39 040 76 48 24, sangiusto.ts@bestwestern. it, www.hotelsangiusto.it. Relatively far from the centre (1km) and not much else to make up for it. The rooms are not generous in terms of space, although part of the hotel has now been renovated, and there is air conditioning. The staff were very kind during our stay, and remarkably spoke good English. Cleanliness ness is probably the biggest plus about  this Best Western chain hotel and it’s generally quiet, being  out of the bustle of the centre. Q 62 rooms (singles €62-66, doubles €86, triples €109). PHA6LW

Continentale E-4, Via San Nicolò 25, tel. +39 040 631 717, [email protected], www.continentalehotel.com.A classy classic residence with almost everything  going for it: tastefully decorated high qualit y rooms; very good breakfast including homemade croissants and omlettes; af fable staff; staff; exceptional exceptional cleanliness, and central pavement-side pavement-side location. The latter does mean that it’s sometimes not the quietest, but in our vie w this is more than made up for in sheer  ease of exploration both night and day (plus the rooms are somewhat soundproofed). Tough one to beat for a short city  break. Q 47 rooms (singles €90-150, doubles €115-170).

PTJHARFK

Coppe E-4, Via Giuseppe Mazzini 24, tel. +39 040 76 16 14, fax +39 040 77 21 99, info@hotelcoppetrieste. it, www.hotelcoppetrieste.it. This relatively new design hotel enjoys an ideal location only steps from the city’s main attractions and historic centre, as well as the main shopping  district and train station. Set in a renovated historic building, the architects have taken full advantage of some unique spaces, with exposed wood beams on the top floors, large multi-room suites, and so-called Romantic rooms featuring  huge round beds below star-lit ceilings. Breakfast is served in the stylish café on the ground floor, and includes nice extras like homemade marmalade and proper espresso coffee. If  arriving by car avoid the hassle of parking by calling ahead to arrange valet service at standard daily parking rates. Q 36 rooms (singles €95-190, doubles €135-270, junior  suites €190-370, suites €210-400). PTJA6W

Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta D-4, Piazza Squero Vecchio 1, tel. +39 040 760 0011, [email protected], www. duchi.eu. Trieste’s flagship hotel sits in its rightful place, on the corner of the city’s grandest square (dell’Unità (dell’Unità d’Italia). The advantage of this would be dining with a view, if the food wasn’t overpriced and under-whelming. Still, the regal classical decor is high end, and you get the luxury of a heated indoor  pool, turkish bath and hot tub. They have also ‘moved with the times’ in some other respects; flat-screen TVs are to be  found in the rooms and the WiFi is free. Q 55 rooms (singles  €125-1 70, doub les €144- 224, €214-2 44). Lower rate s available for non-refundable payments made in advance.

PUGKDCW Trieste In

Your Po cket

Theatres

The good news is that Trieste has lots of cinemas both large and small, however, the bad news (for non-Italian speakers at least) is that virtually all international films are dubbed in Italian. If you’re a fan the Hollywood blockbusters that tend to have more explosions than dialogue than perhaps this won’t matter. Otherwise, check with the tourist office to see if one of the city’s annual international film festivals are taking place while you’re in town.

Il Rossetti - Teatro Stabile del Friuli Venezia Giulia

Ambasciatore Cinema Viale XX Settembre 35, tel. +39 040 662424, www.triestecinema.it. Cinecity Art & Cinemas Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 23, Centro Commerciale Le Torri d’Europa, tel. 892 111, [email protected], www. thespacecinema.it. Cinema Ariston Viale Romolo Gessi 14, tel. +39 040 304 222, www.aristontrieste.it. Cinema Fellini Viale XX Settembre 37, tel. +39 040 636 495, www.triestecinema.it. Cinema Nazionale Via XX Settembre 30, tel. +39 040 635 163, www.triestecinema.it. Giotto Multiplex Via Giotto 8, tel. +39 040 637 636, www.triestecinema.it.

Viale XX Settembre 45, tel. +39 040 3593511, info@ ilrossetti.it, www.ilrossetti.it. La Contrada - Teatro Stabile di TriesteVia del Ghirlandaio 12, tel. +39 040 948471, contrada@contrada. it, www.contrada.it. Teatro Miela Piazza Duca degli Abruz zi 3, tel. +39 040 365119, [email protected], www.miela.it. Teatro San Giovanni Via San Cilino 99/1, tel. +39 040 351330, [email protected], www.patteatro.it.

Teatro Stabile Slovenian (Slovensko Gledališče) Via Petronio 4, tel. +39 040 632664/+39 040 362 542, [email protected], www.teaterssg.it. Teatro Verdi Trieste D-4, Riva 3 Novembre 1, tel. +39 040 672 2111, [email protected], www.teatroverdi-trieste.com. Trieste’s glorious opera house was modelled on the famed La Scala in Milan and  first open ed in 1801. Like man y of th e cit y’s most notable buildings, and inde ed the Trieste itself, Teatro Verdi has experienced various name and structural changes over the centuries, finally settling on the formal title Teatro Lirco Guiseppe Verdi in 1901, just hours after the great composer’s death. Theatre Silvio Pellico Via Ananian 5, tel. +39 040 393478, [email protected], www.teatroarmonia.it.

Museums & Galleries

JUNE / JULY Aria di Festa San Daniele Grado Festival ospiti d’autore Grado Maremetraggio Trieste

Trieste In

Cinemas

Greif Maria Theresia Viale Miramare 109, tel. +39 040 410 115, fax +39 040 413 053, [email protected], www. greifgroup.net. This charming old waterfront villa on the road to Miramare Castle may have had a bit of its legendary  elegance fade over the decades (and its five-star rating it  perhaps one too much), but we tend to feel that it may actually be all the b etter for it, as the added character means you can now almost always find rooms online at huge discounts to the official rack rates we’ve listed here. The exceptional service gives one the feeling of being a long-lost member of  the Habsburg nobility, while breakfast on the terrace on a sunny spring or summer morning is difficul t to top. Q Singles  €275-300, doubles €320-400, sui tes €700. James Joyce D-4, Via dei Cavazzeni 7, tel. +39 040 311 023, fax +39 040 302 618, info@hoteljamesjoyce. com, www.hoteljamesjoyce.com. A lot of hotels claim to be in the ‘old centre’ of cities, but this place has more justi fication t han most. Buil t in 1770 and nam ed af ter a cer tain long-time and hard-drinking resident Irishman, it has retained some very attractive old features including ng beamed ceilings. Otherwise the amenities are modern (including WiFi), the rooms well-furnished and service excellent. Its location in a side street can be a challenge to find, but when you do you’ll realise it’s a cosy little base hidden in the thick of things to explore. Note that reception is located at the Urban Hotel Design. Q 12 rooms (singles €81-120, doubles €150).

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Le Corderie Via di Calvola 43, tel. +39 040 322 9277, www.lecorderiehotel.it. Distinctive in terms of its heritage, this former rope and sail manufacturer’s workshop has been converted into a compact modern hotel, constituting one of Trieste’s more popular at present. Wake up in a room of  modern conveniences (plus a writing desk), having indulged in your complementary mini-bar, but not too late; the break fast is high-end, featuring fresh fruit and handmade cakes/  pastries. Located in a quiet corner, 15 minutes from the city  centre. Q 15 rooms (singles €99-110, doubles €120-130).

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Miramare Miramare 325, tel. +39 040 22 47 085, info@ hotelmiramaretrieste.it, www.hotelmiramaretrieste.it. Any number of intensifiers can be placed in front of the word ‘modern’ in describin g the design Hotel Miramare, ironic given its namesake castle; steeped in history and just a 15 minute walk along the promenade. The promenade is literally where the hotel is situated, with balconies b oasting breathtaking  ng  sea views. Cleanliness and friendliness (probably the two golden rules taught on new hotel employee training courses the world over) are adhered to. A further ad vantage over city  centre establishments is the free parking onsite. Q 32 rooms (singles €100-115, doubles €120-140). PTA6UKW

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Castello di San Giusto Museum Piazza della Cattedrale 3, tel. +39 040 30 93 62, [email protected], www.castellodisangiustotrieste.it.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission €6, reduced price €4, castle only €1. Joyce Museum Via Madonna del Mare 13/2, tel. +39 040 675 8182, [email protected], www. museojoycetrieste.it. Q Open 09:00-13:00, Thu 09:0013:00, 15:00-19:00. Admission free. Lapidario Tergestino Piazza della Cattedrale 3, tel. +39 040 309362, [email protected], www. retecivica.trieste.it.Q Open 09:00-19:00 (1 Apr - 31  Oct), 09:00-13:00 (1 Nov - 31 Mar). Admission €6, reduced price €4. Lux Art Gallery Via Cecilia De Rittmeyer 7d, tel. +39 040 307321/+39 335 675 0946. Museum of History and Art Piazza della Cattedrale 1, tel. +39 040 310 500, [email protected], www. museostoriaeartetrieste.it.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5, reduced price €3. Museum of Oriental Art Palazzetto Leo, Via San Sebastiano 1, tel. +39 040 675 4068, [email protected], [email protected], www.museoarteorientaletrieste.it. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €3. Palazzo Gopcevich Via Rossini 4, tel. +39 040 675 4072. Revoltella Museum Via Diaz 27, tel. +39 040 675 4350, [email protected] [email protected], .it, www.museorevoltella.it. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission  €7, reduce d price €5. Sala Arturo Fittke Piazza Piccola 3. Salone degli Incanti Riva Nazario Sauro 1, tel. +39 040 322 6862, [email protected], www.retecivica.trieste.it. Svevo Museum Via Madonna del Mare 13/2, tel. +39 040 675 8182, [email protected]. it, www.retecivica.trieste.it. Q Open 09:00-13:00, Thu 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00. Admission free.

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An impromptu midnight trumpet serenade on Molo Audace pier, photo by Mario Fragiacomo 2013

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Where to stay Hotels

Symbol key

Albergo Alla Posta F-1/2, Piazza Oberdan 1, tel. +39 040 36 52 08, [email protected], www.albergopostatrieste.it. A good option if you like to be central but don’t need to be right in the heart of the city; the Alla Posta is located on a busy square a 10-minute walk from Piazza dell’Uni tà d’Italia, at the historic Opicina Tram Terminus. The décor is a hybrid of classic and modern, with a high grade finish and very good room facilities including minibars and marble bathrooms/hydromassage baths in some. Breakfast is fresh, the staff helpful and prices reasonable. Q 47 rooms (singles €70-110, doubles €98-170, suites  €225-260).  €225-260). Lower Lower rates only available available for for weekend stays. stays. Pets charged €15/night. P6UW

P Air conditioning 

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly 

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet 

L Guarded parking 

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant 

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly 

W Wi-Fi connection

Best Western Hotel San Giusto G-6, Via dell’Istria 7, tel. +39 040 76 48 24, sangiusto.ts@bestwestern. it, www.hotelsangiusto.it. Relatively far from the centre (1km) and not much else to make up for it. The rooms are not generous in terms of space, although part of the hotel has now been renovated, and there is air conditioning. The staff were very kind during our stay, and remarkably spoke good English. Cleanliness ness is probably the biggest plus about  this Best Western chain hotel and it’s generally quiet, being  out of the bustle of the centre. Q 62 rooms (singles €62-66, doubles €86, triples €109). PHA6LW

Continentale E-4, Via San Nicolò 25, tel. +39 040 631 717, [email protected], www.continentalehotel.com.A classy classic residence with almost everything  going for it: tastefully decorated high qualit y rooms; very good breakfast including homemade croissants and omlettes; af fable staff; staff; exceptional exceptional cleanliness, and central pavement-side pavement-side location. The latter does mean that it’s sometimes not the quietest, but in our vie w this is more than made up for in sheer  ease of exploration both night and day (plus the rooms are somewhat soundproofed). Tough one to beat for a short city  break. Q 47 rooms (singles €90-150, doubles €115-170).

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Coppe E-4, Via Giuseppe Mazzini 24, tel. +39 040 76 16 14, fax +39 040 77 21 99, info@hotelcoppetrieste. it, www.hotelcoppetrieste.it. This relatively new design hotel enjoys an ideal location only steps from the city’s main attractions and historic centre, as well as the main shopping  district and train station. Set in a renovated historic building, the architects have taken full advantage of some unique spaces, with exposed wood beams on the top floors, large multi-room suites, and so-called Romantic rooms featuring  huge round beds below star-lit ceilings. Breakfast is served in the stylish café on the ground floor, and includes nice extras like homemade marmalade and proper espresso coffee. If  arriving by car avoid the hassle of parking by calling ahead to arrange valet service at standard daily parking rates. Q 36 rooms (singles €95-190, doubles €135-270, junior  suites €190-370, suites €210-400). PTJA6W

Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta D-4, Piazza Squero Vecchio 1, tel. +39 040 760 0011, [email protected], www. duchi.eu. Trieste’s flagship hotel sits in its rightful place, on the corner of the city’s grandest square (dell’Unità (dell’Unità d’Italia). The advantage of this would be dining with a view, if the food wasn’t overpriced and under-whelming. Still, the regal classical decor is high end, and you get the luxury of a heated indoor  pool, turkish bath and hot tub. They have also ‘moved with the times’ in some other respects; flat-screen TVs are to be  found in the rooms and the WiFi is free. Q 55 rooms (singles  €125-1 70, doub les €144- 224, €214-2 44). Lower rate s available for non-refundable payments made in advance.

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Greif Maria Theresia Viale Miramare 109, tel. +39 040 410 115, fax +39 040 413 053, [email protected], www. greifgroup.net. This charming old waterfront villa on the road to Miramare Castle may have had a bit of its legendary  elegance fade over the decades (and its five-star rating it  perhaps one too much), but we tend to feel that it may actually be all the b etter for it, as the added character means you can now almost always find rooms online at huge discounts to the official rack rates we’ve listed here. The exceptional service gives one the feeling of being a long-lost member of  the Habsburg nobility, while breakfast on the terrace on a sunny spring or summer morning is difficul t to top. Q Singles  €275-300, doubles €320-400, sui tes €700. James Joyce D-4, Via dei Cavazzeni 7, tel. +39 040 311 023, fax +39 040 302 618, info@hoteljamesjoyce. com, www.hoteljamesjoyce.com. A lot of hotels claim to be in the ‘old centre’ of cities, but this place has more justi fication t han most. Buil t in 1770 and nam ed af ter a cer tain long-time and hard-drinking resident Irishman, it has retained some very attractive old features including ng beamed ceilings. Otherwise the amenities are modern (including WiFi), the rooms well-furnished and service excellent. Its location in a side street can be a challenge to find, but when you do you’ll realise it’s a cosy little base hidden in the thick of things to explore. Note that reception is located at the Urban Hotel Design. Q 12 rooms (singles €81-120, doubles €150).

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Le Corderie Via di Calvola 43, tel. +39 040 322 9277, www.lecorderiehotel.it. Distinctive in terms of its heritage, this former rope and sail manufacturer’s workshop has been converted into a compact modern hotel, constituting one of Trieste’s more popular at present. Wake up in a room of  modern conveniences (plus a writing desk), having indulged in your complementary mini-bar, but not too late; the break fast is high-end, featuring fresh fruit and handmade cakes/  pastries. Located in a quiet corner, 15 minutes from the city  centre. Q 15 rooms (singles €99-110, doubles €120-130).

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Miramare Miramare 325, tel. +39 040 22 47 085, info@ hotelmiramaretrieste.it, www.hotelmiramaretrieste.it. Any number of intensifiers can be placed in front of the word ‘modern’ in describin g the design Hotel Miramare, ironic given its namesake castle; steeped in history and just a 15 minute walk along the promenade. The promenade is literally where the hotel is situated, with balconies b oasting breathtaking  ng  sea views. Cleanliness and friendliness (probably the two golden rules taught on new hotel employee training courses the world over) are adhered to. A further ad vantage over city  centre establishments is the free parking onsite. Q 32 rooms (singles €100-115, doubles €120-140). PTA6UKW

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Where to stay

Where to stay

NH Trieste E-2, Corso Cavour 7, tel. +39 040 76 00

Urban Hotel Design D-4, Androna Chiusa 4, tel. +39

055, [email protected], www.nh-hotels.it. A  mixed bag: while there’s only 30 minutes of free in ternet in the lobby (not good enough in this class) and no parking, you do get a decent breakfast, a clean and spacious room and a central location. With very good servic e, it’s a worthwhile option should you take advantage of online discounts. Q Singles and doubles €90-150. P6KW

040 30 20 65, [email protected], www.urbanhotel.it. As the name suggests, design and urban-ne ss are something  of a focus here. Think minimalist rooms, retro furniture and Audrey Hepburn popart. Although form may come at the expense of functionality occasi onally, it is forgivable, forgivable, not least   for the prime locati on (150m from Piazza Dell’Uni tà), professional (and multilingual) staff and tasty breakfast. Q Singles  €130-220, doubles €160-280, €160-280, suites suites €220-320. €220-320. Valet Valet parking  ng  service is an additional €20/night. PJARULGW

Palace Suite Via San Nicolò 34-36, tel. +39 040 367631, fax +39 040 368816, info@palacesuite. com, www.palacesuite.com. Just a few steps from the city’s major sights, but still somewhat hidden away in the pedestrian area, the early 20th-century Palazzo Terni-Dei Rossi boasts one of the most impressive façades in all of  Trieste, behind which can be found one of the city’s most  impressive accommodation options. Offering three types of suites - classic, family and studio - guests can expect all of the conveniences of a hotel with the space and privacy  of an apartment. All units come with fully-equipped kitchens, and luxurious amenities throughout, from solid oak   floors and design er fur niture to hu ge fla t scr een TVs and bathroom fixtures. Definitely one of our favourites. Q 16 suites. PTJALW

Roma E/F-2, Carlo Ghega 7, tel. +39 040 37 00 40, [email protected], [email protected], www.hotelroma-trieste.it. Both standard hotel rooms and apartments are available here (the latter being a cross the road), and it’s in an ideal location near to the train station and city sights. Yet another  residence set in a 19th Cen tury building, the Roma has itself  been open for over 100 years, with ample sized rooms and bathrooms. If nothing else th e rack rates for the Roma are reasonable and there’s free WiFi throughout. Q Singles from  €66, double s from €79, triples from €113, apartments from  €170. PTJA6LW

Savoia Excelsior Palace D-4, Riva del Mandracchio 4, tel. +39 040 77 941, fax +39 040 638 260, [email protected], savoiaexcelsiorpalace. starhotels.com. One look at this place and you’ve seen enough to deduct that it is justifiably called a palace. Quite astonishing luxury in every corner, what else to say. The description here must turn to distinguished details such as the shell-shaped ceiling in Le Rive bar, the panoramic views of the Gulf of Trieste Trieste to be enjoyed over breakfast on your 19th century balcony, Italian marble in the lobby and bathrooms, reputed toiletries in the latter, and all this just  a few steps from the central square. Q 142 rooms (clas(classic €190, superior €220, deluxe €250, suites €310-430).

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Around Trieste Davost Via Tagliamento 26, Forni di Sopra, tel. +39 0433 88103, fax +39 0433 886775, info@ hoteldavost.it, hoteldavost.it, www.hoteldavost.it. www.hoteldavost.it. This charming   famil y-run mount ain lodge makes a p erfe ct base for  hitting the slopes or exploring the surrounding national parks. Located in the quaint alpine village of Forni di Sopra in the Eastern Dolomites, Hotel Davost is a mere 500m from the ski lifts and you don’t even need to leave your room to enjoy the setting with most rooms offering impressive mountain views. The hotel also has an excellent restaurant attached, serving up delicious local specialities including 60 local grappa’s (we don’t  recommend trying them all at once though!). Q Half  board €49-60/person, full board €54-66/person.

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Victoria G-5, Alfredo Oriani 2, tel. +39 040 36 24 15, Housed in the former home www.hotelvictoriatrieste.com.Housed of James Joyce, the superb Victoria dedicates a suite to the Ulysses author and legend in Trieste. The 19th Century  structure is beautifully maintained and has been brought  up-to-date with modern amenities. WiFi is available throughout, and the wellness centre (sauna, Turkish bath, hot tub, chromotherapy shower) will delight most. There’s marble all over the place, four-poster beds and a world class breakfast  is the icing on the cake. Q 44 rooms (singles €90-120, doubles €110-130, suites €150-220). PA6FLDW

Budget Hotels Affitta Camere Ghega F-2, Carlo Ghega 3, tel . +39 040 66 12 96. Basic, spacious and good location are the keywords  for this slightly ightly run-down looking property. On arrival it can be tricky to find (especially at night), but when you do you’ll likely  be met by a friendly and helpful receptionist, who can advise on nearby restaurants and pizzerias, of which there are plenty. The facilities are quite spartan and there’s no common space, but there is free WiFi throughout, and a discounted breakfast  at a nearby café. Q Doubles €59, triples €73. JA6XW Albergo Alabarda Valdirivo 22, tel. +39 040 63 02 69/+39 40 63 92 84, [email protected], www.hotelaffordable budget hotel in the centre of  alabarda.it. Another affordable Trieste. This one sells itself mostly on its excellent position, only a few minutes in ei ther direction to the Piazza dell’Unita d’Italia or the bus/train station. As is customary in Trieste pets are welcome at no extra charge, and the breakfast is free (the two are in no way connected). Like most things at this establishment, the rooms are quite basic; unpadded chairs, small fans (no AC) and no WiFi access in the rooms, although you do get an LCD TV. Fair value for short stays. Q Singles  from €33, double from €45. TA6W Nuovo Albergo Centro E-3, Roma 13, tel. +39 040 34 78 790/+39 040 34 75 258, info@hotelcentrotrieste. it,w ww.hotelcentrotrieste.it. ww.hotelcentrotrieste.it.One of the ‘is it a hostel or is it a hotel?’ breed that offer simple, modern accommodation with a lot included for a very reasonable price. The ‘New Hotel Centro’ (as they haphazardly call it in English) is located approximately halfway between the Grand Canal and the central train station, has formidable rooms (bright, quiet, very clean, modern, spacious), a solid break fast buffet, library, lounge and most importantly a bar. The en-suite is recommended over  the slightly cramped shared washing facilities. Bike rental is also a nice addition. Q Singles €30-60, doubles €45-80, triples €90-108, quads €100-140. Parking is additional €8/  day. TA6LW

B&Bs B&B Petra Mazzini 4, tel. +39 333 575 3017/+39 040 260 2796, [email protected], www.bedandbreakfastpetra.com. With this tastefully renovated B&B you don’t just get a plain bed and spot of breakfast, but also Giorgio, the dedicated and attentive host. He runs the place

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with love; be bestowed with organic breakfast and all the amiable traveller tips you wish for. Throw in a fairly central location (bus stop Piazza Goldoni), comfortable beds and nice little touches like bathrobes, candles in the bathroom, and you have the potential for an affordable romantic break. Q Singles €30-45, doubles €50-70. PNG

Casa Rosandra Localita’ Mattonaia Triestina 217, San Dorligo della Valle-Dolina, tel./fax +39 040 832 3463,w ww.casarosandra.com. ww.casarosandra.com. The ever-popular Casa Rosandra restaurant also offers six large, sparkling clean and modernly renovated rooms upstairs. Located just  beyond the industrial areas in the far south of the city, it’s some 8km from the cen tre of Trieste, Trieste, making it a preferred option for business travellers or others who would like to visit the near by town of Muggia or th e Val Rosandra Rosandra nature reserve withou t having to worry about navigating Trieste’s centre or finding parking. A good value option if you’re just  passing though and have your own car, while the restaurant  downstairs is also a major plus. Q 6 rooms.

Apartments Residence Le Terrazze Filzi 21, tel. +39 040 36 98 22, [email protected], www. The wild card ‘Le Terrazze’ residenceleterrazzetrieste.it.The gives those who like to be independent on holiday (and save a euro or two) the opportunity to stay in attractive accommodation (rated four-star) but have their own kitchen, even with a washing machine. This is essentially an ‘apartment  hotel’, situated in a modern block, the top floors of which look out over the sea. If you don’t mind the lack of staff  overnight and making your own breakfast it’s impressive. Q 49 apartments (singles €50-130, doubles €70-150, triples €100-170, quads €130-200). P6LXW

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Residence Sara Via dei Capitelli 4, tel. +39 040 245 3297/+39 327 44 75 405, info@residencesara. com, www.residencesara.com www.residencesara.com.. Tucked into a cosy old town corner not far from Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, these apartments are an ideal alternative to staying in a hotel. It, or given the name perhaps ‘she’ is more appropriate, is housed in an old building, but has had a recent makeover  which has made her modern, clean and attractive. The ample space makes for pleasant breakfast and ‘getting  ready’ time, but given the lack of internet that probably  won’t be extended too much. Note that reception (at the address given) is in a separate building to the apartments themselves, which are all independent. Monthly rentals are also available. Q 12 apartments (1-person €50-80, 2-person €70-120, 3-person €90-140, 4-person €100160). PTJA

Hostels Ostello Tergeste Viale Miramare 331, tel. +39 040 22 41 02, [email protected]. With a slightly lower  than typical hostel price, the Ostello Tergeste is to be found in a pretty location on the sea front, not far from Miramare Castle. Sadly that’s where its virtues end, with a shabby  breakfast (included), unreliable in ternet and sparse eating options in the immediate vicinity of the place (restaurant/pizzeria within 20min walk). At least the staff are your quintessential chirpy Italians. Overall if you can forgive its shortcomings it’s not too bad for the price. Q Dorms €17, doubles with shared bathrooms €38, en-suite double €46. TR

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Where to stay NH Trieste E-2, Corso Cavour 7, tel. +39 040 76 00

Urban Hotel Design D-4, Androna Chiusa 4, tel. +39

055, [email protected], www.nh-hotels.it. A  mixed bag: while there’s only 30 minutes of free in ternet in the lobby (not good enough in this class) and no parking, you do get a decent breakfast, a clean and spacious room and a central location. With very good servic e, it’s a worthwhile option should you take advantage of online discounts. Q Singles and doubles €90-150. P6KW

040 30 20 65, [email protected], www.urbanhotel.it. As the name suggests, design and urban-ne ss are something  of a focus here. Think minimalist rooms, retro furniture and Audrey Hepburn popart. Although form may come at the expense of functionality occasi onally, it is forgivable, forgivable, not least   for the prime locati on (150m from Piazza Dell’Uni tà), professional (and multilingual) staff and tasty breakfast. Q Singles  €130-220, doubles €160-280, €160-280, suites suites €220-320. €220-320. Valet Valet parking  ng  service is an additional €20/night. PJARULGW

Palace Suite Via San Nicolò 34-36, tel. +39 040 367631, fax +39 040 368816, info@palacesuite. com, www.palacesuite.com. Just a few steps from the city’s major sights, but still somewhat hidden away in the pedestrian area, the early 20th-century Palazzo Terni-Dei Rossi boasts one of the most impressive façades in all of  Trieste, behind which can be found one of the city’s most  impressive accommodation options. Offering three types of suites - classic, family and studio - guests can expect all of the conveniences of a hotel with the space and privacy  of an apartment. All units come with fully-equipped kitchens, and luxurious amenities throughout, from solid oak   floors and design er fur niture to hu ge fla t scr een TVs and bathroom fixtures. Definitely one of our favourites. Q 16 suites. PTJALW

Roma E/F-2, Carlo Ghega 7, tel. +39 040 37 00 40, [email protected], [email protected], www.hotelroma-trieste.it. Both standard hotel rooms and apartments are available here (the latter being a cross the road), and it’s in an ideal location near to the train station and city sights. Yet another  residence set in a 19th Cen tury building, the Roma has itself  been open for over 100 years, with ample sized rooms and bathrooms. If nothing else th e rack rates for the Roma are reasonable and there’s free WiFi throughout. Q Singles from  €66, double s from €79, triples from €113, apartments from  €170. PTJA6LW

Savoia Excelsior Palace D-4, Riva del Mandracchio 4, tel. +39 040 77 941, fax +39 040 638 260, [email protected], savoiaexcelsiorpalace. starhotels.com. One look at this place and you’ve seen enough to deduct that it is justifiably called a palace. Quite astonishing luxury in every corner, what else to say. The description here must turn to distinguished details such as the shell-shaped ceiling in Le Rive bar, the panoramic views of the Gulf of Trieste Trieste to be enjoyed over breakfast on your 19th century balcony, Italian marble in the lobby and bathrooms, reputed toiletries in the latter, and all this just  a few steps from the central square. Q 142 rooms (clas(classic €190, superior €220, deluxe €250, suites €310-430).

PHULGKW

Around Trieste Davost Via Tagliamento 26, Forni di Sopra, tel. +39 0433 88103, fax +39 0433 886775, info@ hoteldavost.it, hoteldavost.it, www.hoteldavost.it. www.hoteldavost.it. This charming   famil y-run mount ain lodge makes a p erfe ct base for  hitting the slopes or exploring the surrounding national parks. Located in the quaint alpine village of Forni di Sopra in the Eastern Dolomites, Hotel Davost is a mere 500m from the ski lifts and you don’t even need to leave your room to enjoy the setting with most rooms offering impressive mountain views. The hotel also has an excellent restaurant attached, serving up delicious local specialities including 60 local grappa’s (we don’t  recommend trying them all at once though!). Q Half  board €49-60/person, full board €54-66/person.

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Where to stay

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Victoria G-5, Alfredo Oriani 2, tel. +39 040 36 24 15, Housed in the former home www.hotelvictoriatrieste.com.Housed of James Joyce, the superb Victoria dedicates a suite to the Ulysses author and legend in Trieste. The 19th Century  structure is beautifully maintained and has been brought  up-to-date with modern amenities. WiFi is available throughout, and the wellness centre (sauna, Turkish bath, hot tub, chromotherapy shower) will delight most. There’s marble all over the place, four-poster beds and a world class breakfast  is the icing on the cake. Q 44 rooms (singles €90-120, doubles €110-130, suites €150-220). PA6FLDW

Budget Hotels Affitta Camere Ghega F-2, Carlo Ghega 3, tel . +39 040 66 12 96. Basic, spacious and good location are the keywords  for this slightly ightly run-down looking property. On arrival it can be tricky to find (especially at night), but when you do you’ll likely  be met by a friendly and helpful receptionist, who can advise on nearby restaurants and pizzerias, of which there are plenty. The facilities are quite spartan and there’s no common space, but there is free WiFi throughout, and a discounted breakfast  at a nearby café. Q Doubles €59, triples €73. JA6XW Albergo Alabarda Valdirivo 22, tel. +39 040 63 02 69/+39 40 63 92 84, [email protected], www.hotelaffordable budget hotel in the centre of  alabarda.it. Another affordable Trieste. This one sells itself mostly on its excellent position, only a few minutes in ei ther direction to the Piazza dell’Unita d’Italia or the bus/train station. As is customary in Trieste pets are welcome at no extra charge, and the breakfast is free (the two are in no way connected). Like most things at this establishment, the rooms are quite basic; unpadded chairs, small fans (no AC) and no WiFi access in the rooms, although you do get an LCD TV. Fair value for short stays. Q Singles  from €33, double from €45. TA6W Nuovo Albergo Centro E-3, Roma 13, tel. +39 040 34 78 790/+39 040 34 75 258, info@hotelcentrotrieste. it,w ww.hotelcentrotrieste.it. ww.hotelcentrotrieste.it.One of the ‘is it a hostel or is it a hotel?’ breed that offer simple, modern accommodation with a lot included for a very reasonable price. The ‘New Hotel Centro’ (as they haphazardly call it in English) is located approximately halfway between the Grand Canal and the central train station, has formidable rooms (bright, quiet, very clean, modern, spacious), a solid break fast buffet, library, lounge and most importantly a bar. The en-suite is recommended over  the slightly cramped shared washing facilities. Bike rental is also a nice addition. Q Singles €30-60, doubles €45-80, triples €90-108, quads €100-140. Parking is additional €8/  day. TA6LW

B&Bs B&B Petra Mazzini 4, tel. +39 333 575 3017/+39 040 260 2796, [email protected], www.bedandbreakfastpetra.com. With this tastefully renovated B&B you don’t just get a plain bed and spot of breakfast, but also Giorgio, the dedicated and attentive host. He runs the place

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with love; be bestowed with organic breakfast and all the amiable traveller tips you wish for. Throw in a fairly central location (bus stop Piazza Goldoni), comfortable beds and nice little touches like bathrobes, candles in the bathroom, and you have the potential for an affordable romantic break. Q Singles €30-45, doubles €50-70. PNG

Casa Rosandra Localita’ Mattonaia Triestina 217, San Dorligo della Valle-Dolina, tel./fax +39 040 832 3463,w ww.casarosandra.com. ww.casarosandra.com. The ever-popular Casa Rosandra restaurant also offers six large, sparkling clean and modernly renovated rooms upstairs. Located just  beyond the industrial areas in the far south of the city, it’s some 8km from the cen tre of Trieste, Trieste, making it a preferred option for business travellers or others who would like to visit the near by town of Muggia or th e Val Rosandra Rosandra nature reserve withou t having to worry about navigating Trieste’s centre or finding parking. A good value option if you’re just  passing though and have your own car, while the restaurant  downstairs is also a major plus. Q 6 rooms.

Apartments Residence Le Terrazze Filzi 21, tel. +39 040 36 98 22, [email protected], www. The wild card ‘Le Terrazze’ residenceleterrazzetrieste.it.The gives those who like to be independent on holiday (and save a euro or two) the opportunity to stay in attractive accommodation (rated four-star) but have their own kitchen, even with a washing machine. This is essentially an ‘apartment  hotel’, situated in a modern block, the top floors of which look out over the sea. If you don’t mind the lack of staff  overnight and making your own breakfast it’s impressive. Q 49 apartments (singles €50-130, doubles €70-150, triples €100-170, quads €130-200). P6LXW

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RestauRants

Residence Sara Via dei Capitelli 4, tel. +39 040 245 3297/+39 327 44 75 405, info@residencesara. com, www.residencesara.com www.residencesara.com.. Tucked into a cosy old town corner not far from Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, these apartments are an ideal alternative to staying in a hotel. It, or given the name perhaps ‘she’ is more appropriate, is housed in an old building, but has had a recent makeover  which has made her modern, clean and attractive. The ample space makes for pleasant breakfast and ‘getting  ready’ time, but given the lack of internet that probably  won’t be extended too much. Note that reception (at the address given) is in a separate building to the apartments themselves, which are all independent. Monthly rentals are also available. Q 12 apartments (1-person €50-80, 2-person €70-120, 3-person €90-140, 4-person €100160). PTJA

Hostels Ostello Tergeste Viale Miramare 331, tel. +39 040 22 41 02, [email protected]. With a slightly lower  than typical hostel price, the Ostello Tergeste is to be found in a pretty location on the sea front, not far from Miramare Castle. Sadly that’s where its virtues end, with a shabby  breakfast (included), unreliable in ternet and sparse eating options in the immediate vicinity of the place (restaurant/pizzeria within 20min walk). At least the staff are your quintessential chirpy Italians. Overall if you can forgive its shortcomings it’s not too bad for the price. Q Dorms €17, doubles with shared bathrooms €38, en-suite double €46. TR

trieste.inyourpocket.com 2013

RestauRants Symbol key P Air conditioning 

6 Animal friendly 

J City centre location

A Credit cards accepted

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly 

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking 

R Internet 

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant 

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating 

would expect the service is top-notch, and Robert the manager (whose father opened the place some four de cades ago) is often on hand to make personal recommendations. With only twenty or so seats in the main dining rooms reservations are a must. QOpen 19:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun.

Antica Ghiacceretta D-4, Via dei Fornelli, tel. +39 Trieste-style fast food at the legendary Trattoria Da Giovanni

040 322 0307, [email protected], www. anticaghiacceretta.com. At first glance the renovated stone entryway and peach-coloured façade here doesn’t exactly  stand out from the countless other buildings with „Trattoria“ signs in Trieste’s old town. However, upon closer inspection Ai Fiori D-5, Piazza Attilio Hortis 7, tel. +39 040 it becomes apparent apparent that Ghiacceretta is anything but run of  the mill. With bright modern décor, stylish Tuscan glassware, 300633, [email protected], www.aifiori.com. Owned and operated by a friendly husband and wife team (the former  and attentive multi-lingual staff, this exceedingly popular  bearing a striking resemblance to a younger Al Pacino - which  fish-centri c restaurant offers a fresh take on traditional local is always a positive in our book!), Ai Fiori may have kept the cuisine. The menu changes daily depending on what’s been name, sign and awning of the original 1940s restauran t here, bought from the fishermen just a few steps away at the but the service, ambience and cuisine has all been brought  waterfront, while the desserts are also highly recommended. into the 21st century. Specialising in fresh seafood, the QOpen 12:30 - 14:30, 19:30-23:00. Closed Sun. menu is reassuringly short and focussed, but offers ample selection and changes frequently depending upon what’s Arcoriccardo D-5, Via del Trionfo 3a, tel. +39 040 in season. Daily set menus are a great value at only €10, 2410 446, [email protected], www. and during the warmer months a pleasant terrace is set  arcoriccardo-ristorante.it. Deriving both its name and up under the trees on the square. Q Open 12:00-15:00, notoriety from the ancient Roman-era archway that has 19:00-23:00, Sun 19:00-23:00. Closed Mon in spring and been partially incorporated into the building, the newest  summer. PTJAB incarnation of the restaurant opened here in 2006, but its tradition dates back to at least the beginning of the 19th Al Bagatto D-4, Via Cadorna 7, tel. +39 040 301771, century, and counts James Joyce among its former loyal patrons. Nowadays it’s owned by chef Luca Gioiello, who [email protected], www.albagatto.it. Hailed by local gourmands and international food critics alike as the best  oversees a menu of largely traditional seafood specialrestaurant in Trieste, we feel safe in dispensing wi th our usual ties, with a few modern interpretations and more unusual need to mitigate such statements by affixing ‘one of’ in front of  combinations also included. Locate d on a quiet old square, it, and can wholeheartedly agree with those who literally eat  the small terrace outside opposite the restaurant is an ex for a living. The menu is orientate d firmly towards the nearby  ceptionally pleasant place to dine. Q Open 12:00-14:30, Mediterranean Sea, with local specialities given permanent  19:00-23:30. Closed for lunch Mon-Thur in the winter, and places on the otherwise frequently changing menu. As one Mon in summer. PJAU

Fish

El Fornel Via dei Fornelli 1, tel. +39 040 322 0262, ww.elforneltrieste.com. It would be a stretch for us to say  that the food is the best you’ll ever have, but the prices are reasonable, the location great and the maritime décor spot  on - it’s also one of the few places in town open on Sundays. We’ve heard some mixed reviews about the pleasantness and efficiency of the service, but personally personally we’ve never had any complaints (although speaking Italian surely helps in that  regard). We usually opt for the mixed deep fried plate or the  fish of the day, but the re are ample pasta, risot to and other  seafood choices. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €7-15.

El Fritolin Miramare 271, tel. +39 040 251 313, ww w. elfritolintrieste.com. It doesn’t get any more authentic than this seafood shack on the road to Miramare. With only  a one page laminated menu the selection isn’t great - deep  fried calamari and sardines rei gn supreme - but th e smells wafting out of the open kitchen are as powerful as a Sirens’ song to passing motorists. The old man who runs the place doesn’t speak any English, but there’s a good chance he’ll overfill your carafe of above average table wine and leave a couple of item s off you bill. Q Mains €8, sides €5, half litre of  wine €5. Hostaria ai 3 Magnoni Via dell’Eremo 243, tel. +39 040 910979, [email protected], www.ai3magnoni. com. One of our favourite places to dine in Trieste is not the easiest to find, but the experience is more than worth the effort. Set in a residential neighbourhood high in the hills above the city, taxi is the best option to get here, especially  especially  since the wine list is first-rate and meals invariably end with a round (or more) of homemade grappa. The owner and head chef Daniele Valmarin is as passionate about being the most  charming and charismatic of hosts as he is about preparing  the freshest, most delectable seafood in town, and the whole

Trieste In

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staff are genuinely welcoming and friendly. Highly recommended! Q Open 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:30, Mon-Tues by  prior arrangement only. PTJB

Hostaria Malcanton E-4, Via Malcanton 10, tel. +39 040 241 0719. Just steps away from Piazza Unita you can settle into this cosy fish restaurant and let the hours pass by  while listening to jazz, staring at the pictures of boats on the red walls and tucking into course after course of fine seafood - there’s even a small cocktail bar for a before or after meal tipple. The owners as always on hand to chat with guests and make personal recommendations, while the catch of the day  is proudly displayed in the refrigerated case in the hallway  near the entrance. Tasting menus with matching wines are a good option for those who’d like to try a bit of everything. Montecarlo Via San Marco 10, tel. +39 040 662 545. Situated in the popular San Giacomo neighbourho od, not far from the city centre, the Montecarlo doesn’t bear much likeness to its name from the outside. Specialising unsurprisingly in seafood, it is popular with Italian visitors to Trieste. The Hors d’oeuvres buffet  is a favourite, and the menu offerings comprises around a dozen  fish and and vegetable vegetable based dishes. dishes. A bill is given on on requests, and the pricing is somewhat ad-hoc, so b est practice your Italian as to be seen in a favourable light by the friendly owner and staff. Q Open 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-14:30. Closed Mon. SaluMare D-5, Via di Cavana 13a, tel. +39 040 322 9743, fax +39 040 460 6942, [email protected], www. salumare.com. Officially falling under the category of a seafood delicatessen, and aptly self-described as a ‘laboratory of fish’, the low-key but stylish SaluMare really comes alive in the evenings when it’s packed with locals drinking  modestly priced regional wines by the bottle and sampling  plate after plate of freshly prepared seafood appetisers. Of  2013

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Symbol key P Air conditioning 

6 Animal friendly 

J City centre location

A Credit cards accepted

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly 

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking 

R Internet 

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant 

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating 

would expect the service is top-notch, and Robert the manager (whose father opened the place some four de cades ago) is often on hand to make personal recommendations. With only twenty or so seats in the main dining rooms reservations are a must. QOpen 19:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun.

Antica Ghiacceretta D-4, Via dei Fornelli, tel. +39 Trieste-style fast food at the legendary Trattoria Da Giovanni

040 322 0307, [email protected], www. anticaghiacceretta.com. At first glance the renovated stone entryway and peach-coloured façade here doesn’t exactly  stand out from the countless other buildings with „Trattoria“ signs in Trieste’s old town. However, upon closer inspection Ai Fiori D-5, Piazza Attilio Hortis 7, tel. +39 040 it becomes apparent apparent that Ghiacceretta is anything but run of  the mill. With bright modern décor, stylish Tuscan glassware, 300633, [email protected], www.aifiori.com. Owned and operated by a friendly husband and wife team (the former  and attentive multi-lingual staff, this exceedingly popular  bearing a striking resemblance to a younger Al Pacino - which  fish-centri c restaurant offers a fresh take on traditional local is always a positive in our book!), Ai Fiori may have kept the cuisine. The menu changes daily depending on what’s been name, sign and awning of the original 1940s restauran t here, bought from the fishermen just a few steps away at the but the service, ambience and cuisine has all been brought  waterfront, while the desserts are also highly recommended. into the 21st century. Specialising in fresh seafood, the QOpen 12:30 - 14:30, 19:30-23:00. Closed Sun. menu is reassuringly short and focussed, but offers ample selection and changes frequently depending upon what’s Arcoriccardo D-5, Via del Trionfo 3a, tel. +39 040 in season. Daily set menus are a great value at only €10, 2410 446, [email protected], www. and during the warmer months a pleasant terrace is set  arcoriccardo-ristorante.it. Deriving both its name and up under the trees on the square. Q Open 12:00-15:00, notoriety from the ancient Roman-era archway that has 19:00-23:00, Sun 19:00-23:00. Closed Mon in spring and been partially incorporated into the building, the newest  summer. PTJAB incarnation of the restaurant opened here in 2006, but its tradition dates back to at least the beginning of the 19th Al Bagatto D-4, Via Cadorna 7, tel. +39 040 301771, century, and counts James Joyce among its former loyal patrons. Nowadays it’s owned by chef Luca Gioiello, who [email protected], www.albagatto.it. Hailed by local gourmands and international food critics alike as the best  oversees a menu of largely traditional seafood specialrestaurant in Trieste, we feel safe in dispensing wi th our usual ties, with a few modern interpretations and more unusual need to mitigate such statements by affixing ‘one of’ in front of  combinations also included. Locate d on a quiet old square, it, and can wholeheartedly agree with those who literally eat  the small terrace outside opposite the restaurant is an ex for a living. The menu is orientate d firmly towards the nearby  ceptionally pleasant place to dine. Q Open 12:00-14:30, Mediterranean Sea, with local specialities given permanent  19:00-23:30. Closed for lunch Mon-Thur in the winter, and places on the otherwise frequently changing menu. As one Mon in summer. PJAU

Fish

El Fornel Via dei Fornelli 1, tel. +39 040 322 0262, ww.elforneltrieste.com. It would be a stretch for us to say  that the food is the best you’ll ever have, but the prices are reasonable, the location great and the maritime décor spot  on - it’s also one of the few places in town open on Sundays. We’ve heard some mixed reviews about the pleasantness and efficiency of the service, but personally personally we’ve never had any complaints (although speaking Italian surely helps in that  regard). We usually opt for the mixed deep fried plate or the  fish of the day, but the re are ample pasta, risot to and other  seafood choices. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €7-15.

El Fritolin Miramare 271, tel. +39 040 251 313, ww w. elfritolintrieste.com. It doesn’t get any more authentic than this seafood shack on the road to Miramare. With only  a one page laminated menu the selection isn’t great - deep  fried calamari and sardines rei gn supreme - but th e smells wafting out of the open kitchen are as powerful as a Sirens’ song to passing motorists. The old man who runs the place doesn’t speak any English, but there’s a good chance he’ll overfill your carafe of above average table wine and leave a couple of item s off you bill. Q Mains €8, sides €5, half litre of  wine €5. Hostaria ai 3 Magnoni Via dell’Eremo 243, tel. +39 040 910979, [email protected], www.ai3magnoni. com. One of our favourite places to dine in Trieste is not the easiest to find, but the experience is more than worth the effort. Set in a residential neighbourhood high in the hills above the city, taxi is the best option to get here, especially  especially  since the wine list is first-rate and meals invariably end with a round (or more) of homemade grappa. The owner and head chef Daniele Valmarin is as passionate about being the most  charming and charismatic of hosts as he is about preparing  the freshest, most delectable seafood in town, and the whole

Trieste In

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trieste.inyourpo cket.com

staff are genuinely welcoming and friendly. Highly recommended! Q Open 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:30, Mon-Tues by  prior arrangement only. PTJB

Hostaria Malcanton E-4, Via Malcanton 10, tel. +39 040 241 0719. Just steps away from Piazza Unita you can settle into this cosy fish restaurant and let the hours pass by  while listening to jazz, staring at the pictures of boats on the red walls and tucking into course after course of fine seafood - there’s even a small cocktail bar for a before or after meal tipple. The owners as always on hand to chat with guests and make personal recommendations, while the catch of the day  is proudly displayed in the refrigerated case in the hallway  near the entrance. Tasting menus with matching wines are a good option for those who’d like to try a bit of everything. Montecarlo Via San Marco 10, tel. +39 040 662 545. Situated in the popular San Giacomo neighbourho od, not far from the city centre, the Montecarlo doesn’t bear much likeness to its name from the outside. Specialising unsurprisingly in seafood, it is popular with Italian visitors to Trieste. The Hors d’oeuvres buffet  is a favourite, and the menu offerings comprises around a dozen  fish and and vegetable vegetable based dishes. dishes. A bill is given on on requests, and the pricing is somewhat ad-hoc, so b est practice your Italian as to be seen in a favourable light by the friendly owner and staff. Q Open 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-14:30. Closed Mon. SaluMare D-5, Via di Cavana 13a, tel. +39 040 322 9743, fax +39 040 460 6942, [email protected], www. salumare.com. Officially falling under the category of a seafood delicatessen, and aptly self-described as a ‘laboratory of fish’, the low-key but stylish SaluMare really comes alive in the evenings when it’s packed with locals drinking  modestly priced regional wines by the bottle and sampling  plate after plate of freshly prepared seafood appetisers. Of  2013

trieste.inyourpocket.com

RestauRants

course that doesn’t mean you can’t stop by during the day  to grab a sandwich, canapé, salad or some other wonderful seafood-based concoction from one of the only places in all of Italy that still hand smokes its fish. Q Open Tues-Sat  10:30-14:00, 18:30-22:00. Closed Sun-Mon.

Scabar Via Erta di Sant’Anna 63, tel. +39 040 810 368/+39 393 936 6747, www.scabar.it. A high-end seafood restaurant sitting high above Trieste, with pleasant  views of the nearby Slovenian hills. The service is impeccable and surroundings immaculate (if a little understated), the summer heat being kept of the terrace area with awnings. A range of flavours is brought out of the very fresh seafood on offer here, also bequeathed by the seaside location are both Slovene and Italian wines (try the Malvasia). Don’t  expect anything with regards to prices, so as to enjoy every  morsel. The sampler menu highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Mon.

RestauRants

Trattoria al Faro Scala Giuseppe Sforzi 2, tel. +39 040 410092, [email protected], www.trattoriaalfaro.it. Trieste’s Faro della Vittoria (or Victory Lighthouse), is one of the tallest lighthouses in the world, making the nearby Trattoria al Faro relatively easy to find no matter if you’re arriving by car, bus or cruise liner. The restaurant’s cool leafy covered terrace, and the views it offers of the city and sea, is hard to beat, though the  food itself is also also top-notch. top-notch.Unsurprisingly Unsurprisingly the menu menu is dedicated dedicated to seafood, namely, that which has been freshly pulled from the waters below, and if one dish in particular is worth mentioning it’s the fish jota, a thick stew that perfectl y combines Italian and Slavic tastes. Q Open 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30. Closed for lunch Mon.

German Buffet da Pepi E-4, Cassa di Risparmio 3, tel. +39 040 366 858, [email protected], www.buffetdapepi. com. A true institution and likely the the first answer to roll off the tongues of locals when asked for dining recommendations, Pepi’s Pepi’s has been serving a dizz ying selection of  pork dishes to the good citizens of Trieste since the AustroHungarian Empire was still at the peak of its powers and long before James Joyce ever set foot in the city, or 1897  to be more precise. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly (given its stellar reputation), the service is still roundly excellent, and it’s virtually impossible to go wrong with anything on the menu - unless of course you’re a vegetarian or don’t eat  pork (in which case you should avoid this place for fear of  being converted). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €8-17.

Buffet Rudy F-3, Valdirivo 32, tel. +39 040 639 428, buffetrudyspaten.it.While the remnants of Trieste’s AustroHungarian heritage can be seen throughout the city, Rudy’s is the quintessential haven of Bavaria culture, cuisine and of  course beer - all s traight from Munich to your table a few steps  from the Mediterranean. A bit dark and cramped as any good beer hall should be, Rud y’s serves up a mouthwatering array  of soups, dumplings, boiled meats, Bavarian specialities, and even a few Italian and Slovene dishes. Our favourite dishes include the Octoberfest Plate (with three kinds of wurst) and the tender sliced beef with rocket and Grana Padano cheese. Ordering a draught beer is not required, but should be. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €7-13.

International Harry’s Grill D-4, Piazza Unità D’Italia, tel. +39 040 660 606/ +39 366 380 9997. Contrary to what the name suggests, you should dress up as much as possible for this Italian/Mediterranean/chowder Italian/Mediterranean/chowder eatery. Fine dining is expensive in Italy these days, but here the quality lives up to even high expectations. Suited waiters will greet you with professionalism, also when requested advising on good wines to go with Trieste In

Your Po cket

trieste inyourpo cket com

Via Rittmeyer 14 - Trieste - T +39 040 7600716 - www.pepeneropepebianco.it www.pepeneropepebianco.it

your great steak, veal shank or rag pasta, in a distinguished setting. Popular with business parties of a lunchtime, whereas an evening meal (special occasion or not) allows you to keep an eye on the happenings of Piazza Unità d’Italia.

Suban Via Emilio Comici 2/D, tel. +39 040 54368, [email protected], www.suban.it. The renown of  this Trieste Trieste eater y is unsurpassed. Indee d, to call it an eatery  is to not acknowledge the lengths to which the owner, Mario, and his family go to ensure their diners’ great experience. Exquisite dishes are prepared to perfection; mea t grilled over hot  coals represents just part of the flavourful and original menu. Specialised in looking after large groups, this extra-ordinary  trattoria is ideal for a special occasion. As a matter of fact, with prices comparable with other lesser establishments, it  should be on every visitor’s itinerary at least once.

Ice Cream Gelato Marco Malconton 16a, tel . +39 392 0788 230, [email protected], www.gelatomarTrieste on a small co.com. Find the best ice cream in Trieste side street just behind Pizza Unita. The proprietor Marco is a true maestro when it comes to preparing the various  frozen cre am-base d conco ctions b eautifu lly pre sented in this small shop - all of which is done without using  any artificial additives (GMO, hydrogenated fat, etc), as the only ingredients here are cream, fresh fruit, natural sugar syrup, a little water and lots of passion. In addition to dozens of different ice creams, from classic flavours to unique in-house specialties, there are also different  types of ice cream cakes and other frozen treats.

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Tenda Rossa Strada Costiera 172, tel. +39 040 224 214/+39 348 711 7688, [email protected], www. tendarossa.net. Overlooking the bay of Trieste and quite close to Miramare Castle, this mainly seafood restaurant  is a sure winner for a romantic lunch or summertime dinner. The excellent cliff-top view comes at a price, of course, and the portions are on the small side. The cuisine however, also including meat dishes, is suitably tasty, tasty, so i f you’re budget  is not likely to be stretched it’s worth a visit. English to be  found in the menus and from the staff. QOpen . Closed Tue.

Italian Al Barattolo F-3, Piazza San Antonio Nuovo 2, tel. +39 040 631 480, [email protected], www.albarattolo.it. Located just off the Grand Canal in the shadow of the neoclassical façade of t he Church of San Antonio Taumaturgo, Al Barattolo boasts one of the most comprehensive selections in town and is also one of th e few restaurants that offers multicourse daily specials. Colourful menus are packed with even more colourful photos illustrating dishes ranging from all the Italian basics to numerous grilled meat options, but the real standouts here are the pizzas, which you could order every  day for two months and never have the same kind twice. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €7-22.

Ego D-5, Via Felice Venezian 16/c, tel. +39 333 689 49 92, ri [email protected] by a young enthusiastic couple, Ego is a shining example of the new school of culinary maestros that Trieste has been blessed with in recent years. While head chef Robert Ubaldini may not yet be thirty years old, he’s spent nearly half his life in the kitchen, getting his start at the tender age of six teen in a five-star  restaurant on Sardinia. The menu here can best be described 2013

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RestauRants

course that doesn’t mean you can’t stop by during the day  to grab a sandwich, canapé, salad or some other wonderful seafood-based concoction from one of the only places in all of Italy that still hand smokes its fish. Q Open Tues-Sat  10:30-14:00, 18:30-22:00. Closed Sun-Mon.

Scabar Via Erta di Sant’Anna 63, tel. +39 040 810 368/+39 393 936 6747, www.scabar.it. A high-end seafood restaurant sitting high above Trieste, with pleasant  views of the nearby Slovenian hills. The service is impeccable and surroundings immaculate (if a little understated), the summer heat being kept of the terrace area with awnings. A range of flavours is brought out of the very fresh seafood on offer here, also bequeathed by the seaside location are both Slovene and Italian wines (try the Malvasia). Don’t  expect anything with regards to prices, so as to enjoy every  morsel. The sampler menu highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Mon.

RestauRants

Trattoria al Faro Scala Giuseppe Sforzi 2, tel. +39 040 410092, [email protected], www.trattoriaalfaro.it. Trieste’s Faro della Vittoria (or Victory Lighthouse), is one of the tallest lighthouses in the world, making the nearby Trattoria al Faro relatively easy to find no matter if you’re arriving by car, bus or cruise liner. The restaurant’s cool leafy covered terrace, and the views it offers of the city and sea, is hard to beat, though the  food itself is also also top-notch. top-notch.Unsurprisingly Unsurprisingly the menu menu is dedicated dedicated to seafood, namely, that which has been freshly pulled from the waters below, and if one dish in particular is worth mentioning it’s the fish jota, a thick stew that perfectl y combines Italian and Slavic tastes. Q Open 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30. Closed for lunch Mon.

German Buffet da Pepi E-4, Cassa di Risparmio 3, tel. +39 040 366 858, [email protected], www.buffetdapepi. com. A true institution and likely the the first answer to roll off the tongues of locals when asked for dining recommendations, Pepi’s Pepi’s has been serving a dizz ying selection of  pork dishes to the good citizens of Trieste since the AustroHungarian Empire was still at the peak of its powers and long before James Joyce ever set foot in the city, or 1897  to be more precise. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly (given its stellar reputation), the service is still roundly excellent, and it’s virtually impossible to go wrong with anything on the menu - unless of course you’re a vegetarian or don’t eat  pork (in which case you should avoid this place for fear of  being converted). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €8-17.

Buffet Rudy F-3, Valdirivo 32, tel. +39 040 639 428, buffetrudyspaten.it.While the remnants of Trieste’s AustroHungarian heritage can be seen throughout the city, Rudy’s is the quintessential haven of Bavaria culture, cuisine and of  course beer - all s traight from Munich to your table a few steps  from the Mediterranean. A bit dark and cramped as any good beer hall should be, Rud y’s serves up a mouthwatering array  of soups, dumplings, boiled meats, Bavarian specialities, and even a few Italian and Slovene dishes. Our favourite dishes include the Octoberfest Plate (with three kinds of wurst) and the tender sliced beef with rocket and Grana Padano cheese. Ordering a draught beer is not required, but should be. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €7-13.

International Harry’s Grill D-4, Piazza Unità D’Italia, tel. +39 040 660 606/ +39 366 380 9997. Contrary to what the name suggests, you should dress up as much as possible for this Italian/Mediterranean/chowder Italian/Mediterranean/chowder eatery. Fine dining is expensive in Italy these days, but here the quality lives up to even high expectations. Suited waiters will greet you with professionalism, also when requested advising on good wines to go with Trieste In

22

Your Po cket

trieste.inyourpo cket.com

Via Rittmeyer 14 - Trieste - T +39 040 7600716 - www.pepeneropepebianco.it www.pepeneropepebianco.it

your great steak, veal shank or rag pasta, in a distinguished setting. Popular with business parties of a lunchtime, whereas an evening meal (special occasion or not) allows you to keep an eye on the happenings of Piazza Unità d’Italia.

Suban Via Emilio Comici 2/D, tel. +39 040 54368, [email protected], www.suban.it. The renown of  this Trieste Trieste eater y is unsurpassed. Indee d, to call it an eatery  is to not acknowledge the lengths to which the owner, Mario, and his family go to ensure their diners’ great experience. Exquisite dishes are prepared to perfection; mea t grilled over hot  coals represents just part of the flavourful and original menu. Specialised in looking after large groups, this extra-ordinary  trattoria is ideal for a special occasion. As a matter of fact, with prices comparable with other lesser establishments, it  should be on every visitor’s itinerary at least once.

Ice Cream Gelato Marco Malconton 16a, tel . +39 392 0788 230, [email protected], www.gelatomarTrieste on a small co.com. Find the best ice cream in Trieste side street just behind Pizza Unita. The proprietor Marco is a true maestro when it comes to preparing the various  frozen cre am-base d conco ctions b eautifu lly pre sented in this small shop - all of which is done without using  any artificial additives (GMO, hydrogenated fat, etc), as the only ingredients here are cream, fresh fruit, natural sugar syrup, a little water and lots of passion. In addition to dozens of different ice creams, from classic flavours to unique in-house specialties, there are also different  types of ice cream cakes and other frozen treats.

Le Dune di Piero E-6, Via Riccardo Bazzoni 11/A-B, tel. +39 040 322 9718/+39 339 782 8174, [email protected], [email protected], www.ledunedipiero.com.Specialising in cuisine from the Abruzzo region, Le Dune is one of the rare undiscovered highlights of Trieste’s gastronomic scene (much like Abruzzo itself). Characterised by simple ingredien ts, which are combined to produce strong robust flavours, the food is a direct reflection of the region’s rugged mountain terrain combined with its long maritime traditions. In addition to the exceptional exceptional food, the genuinely friendly service and attention to details helps to set Le Dune apart, with Piero himself  guiding patrons through the daily offers and ample wine list, while his mother works her magic in the kitchen. Hidden on a narrow residential street to the east of the castle, Le Dune is definitely one worth finding.

Pepenero Pepebianco F-2, Via Cecilia de Rittmeyer 14a, tel. +39 040 760 0716, [email protected], www.pepeneropepebianco.it. Opened in 2008 in beautifully renovated and modernised premises that  were previously used as a wine warehouse and before that a Habsburg-era stable for officers, Pepenero Pepebianco is the  first restaurant of ac claimed chef Mi chele Grandi. Oper ating  under a motto of ‘authentic passion’, the cuisine here is a balance between tradition and innovation, innovation, using fresh local ingredients and recipes, with modern culiinary techniques such as vacuum and low-temperature cooking. Most importantly, the results are delicious! Check their website or 

Tenda Rossa Strada Costiera 172, tel. +39 040 224 214/+39 348 711 7688, [email protected], www. tendarossa.net. Overlooking the bay of Trieste and quite close to Miramare Castle, this mainly seafood restaurant  is a sure winner for a romantic lunch or summertime dinner. The excellent cliff-top view comes at a price, of course, and the portions are on the small side. The cuisine however, also including meat dishes, is suitably tasty, tasty, so i f you’re budget  is not likely to be stretched it’s worth a visit. English to be  found in the menus and from the staff. QOpen . Closed Tue.

Italian Al Barattolo F-3, Piazza San Antonio Nuovo 2, tel. +39 040 631 480, [email protected], www.albarattolo.it. Located just off the Grand Canal in the shadow of the neoclassical façade of t he Church of San Antonio Taumaturgo, Al Barattolo boasts one of the most comprehensive selections in town and is also one of th e few restaurants that offers multicourse daily specials. Colourful menus are packed with even more colourful photos illustrating dishes ranging from all the Italian basics to numerous grilled meat options, but the real standouts here are the pizzas, which you could order every  day for two months and never have the same kind twice. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €7-22.

Ego D-5, Via Felice Venezian 16/c, tel. +39 333 689 49 92, ri [email protected] by a young enthusiastic couple, Ego is a shining example of the new school of culinary maestros that Trieste has been blessed with in recent years. While head chef Robert Ubaldini may not yet be thirty years old, he’s spent nearly half his life in the kitchen, getting his start at the tender age of six teen in a five-star  restaurant on Sardinia. The menu here can best be described 2013

trieste.inyourpocket.com

RestauRants as a contemporary interpretation of classic Trieste cuisine, with traditional regional ingredients presented in new and exciting ways. Likewise the space itself is a combination new and old, with minimalist red and white déc or and an open kitchen set below a vaulted stone ceilin g in an historic building. Highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00-23:00.

RestauRants Facebook page to see if a concert evening or other event  is taking place while you’re in town. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00-22:30. Closed Mon. PJA

Trattoria Da Giovanni F-4, Via San Lazzaro 14b, tel. +39 040 639 396, www.trattoriadagiovanni.com. Opened in 1961, Da Giovanni is one of the old est restaurants in Trieste, and has only got b etter with age. A exceedingly simple affair, affair, the most popular item on the menu is the hand-sliced ham, serve d either in a small sand wich (mustard and horseradish optional) or just rolled up and stuck on the toothpick, while a selection of freshly prepared dishes (grilled vegetables, casseroles, fried  fish, etc) is also always available. Quick, cheap and tasty, it’s a popular lunchtime or late snack stop for workers and students. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00, 16:30-22:30. Closed Sun.

Pizza DNapoli D-4, Via Diaz 10, tel. +39 040 260 1141, www. pizzeriadnapoli.it. We have two hard and fast rules for visitors to Italy: 1) Drink as much espresso as you can, and 2) Eat  as much pizza and gelato as you can. Sticking to the second rule in Trieste we head straight to Pizzeria di Napoli, a couple of blocks west of the Piazza Unita. They offer up some of the city’s best pizzas cooked to perfection in the wood fired oven and what better way to complete a meal than with espresso (order it correto for a real treat) and gelato. QOpen 12:00 15:00, 19:00-23:30.

Marinato D-4, Riva Nazario Sauro 4, tel. +39 040 310 Trieste no restauran ts are more common than those 412. In Trieste serving either seafood or pizza, but very few specialise in both - at least until Marinato opened in the spring of 2013. Located in a prime position along the waterfront promenade, just one block west of the grand Savoia Excelsior Hotel, Marinato’s

interior has been created to resemble a typical fish market, with lots of blue and white tiles, high wood-beam ceilings and a pizza oven doing its impersonation of a lighthouse. The seafood dishes a served simple and fresh, while a sign behind the counter charmingly assures guests that the pizzas are made with love.

Peperino Pizza & Grill G-2, Via del Coroneo 19c, tel. +39 040 631234, 631234, w ww.peperinopizza.it. Specialising in Neapolitan cuisine from old family recipes, includin g of course the city’s famous pizza, Peperino is owned by the Pietro and Susanna, a entrepreneur from Naples and a former Miss Italy   from Trieste respectively. The restaurant near Piazza Oberdan is especially popular with various well-known personalities from across Friuli Venezia Giulia, and it’s said that there’s hardly a show, concert or movie premier in the region that doesn’t end at Peperino, which is made easier by the fact that th ere are also locations in Udine and Pordenone, as well as Milan. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:30, Sat-Sun 19:00-23:30.

Quick Eats Burger King Viale XX Settembre 25, www.burgerking. it. Although we generally try to watch our waistlines, when it comes time to choose a ubiquitous international international cheeseburger chain to dine at we’ve always tended to favour Burger  King over the competition. We also have to say that when it  comes to aesthetics Burger King’s Trieste outlet is a notch or two above what we’re used to - with backlit black signage on the façade and an interior that could easily be mistaken  for a trendy modern bistro. No ne ed to fret th ough, it is still the home of the Whopper. Q Open Sun-Thur 11:00-00:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-03:00. PTJAS

Vegetarian Zoe Food D-5, Via Felice Venezian 24/A, tel. +39 040 246 0420/+39 334 189 6029, www.zoefood.com. Walking into Zoe for the first time on a rainy Saturday gave us flashbacks to our days in Brooklyn, and not just because bagels feature prominently on the menu. Offering an assortment of organic (and mostly vegetarian/vegan) food, the place is guaranteed to be packed with a cross-section of healthconscious locals, who also appreciate a good meal as much as they do environmental sustainability. The menu is inspired by various cuisines from around the world, with Latin America  featuring promine ntly, and the drinks (from fair tra de coffee and coconut milk to Mexican beer and smoothies) are simply  divine. If you’re as impressed as we are, there is information about franchising on their website. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:00.

Around Trieste Casa Rosandra Localita’ Mattonaia Triestina 217, San Dorligo della Valle-Dolina, tel./fax +39 040 832 3463, www.casarosandra.com. The fact that it’s located some 8km south of Trieste’s Trieste’s city c entre, doesn’t see m to affect the popularity of this long-running pizzeria and restaurant. Packed at lunchtime with workers from the surrounding offices and  factories, in the evening it’s sure to be bustlin g with families, large groups, various sports teams and the odd foreign tourist who finds their way out here. The pizzas are said to be legendary in these parts, although the menu also includes a wide selection of pastas, grilled dishes and international standards. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 18:30-23:00. Closed for  lunch on Sat. PTALBSW

McDonald’s Svevo 14, Torri d’Europa Shopping Centre, tel. +39 040 634 399, ww w.mcdonalds.it. Going against  the usual trend of expanding their number of locations, once plentiful McD onald’s chain is now down to a single restaurant  in Trieste, Trieste, which is lo cated on level thre e of the Torri d’Europa shopping centre in the far south of the ci ty. If you find yourself  craving a Big Mac while in town, bus lines 1, 8, 29 and night  line B will all get you here from the city centre. Q Open Sun Thur 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. PTALS

*senza glutine

Street Food Trieste E-2/3, Piazza Luigi Amedeo Duca degli Abruzzi 3, tel. +39 328 842 4711, www.streetfoodtrieste.it. For those in a rush or have just had the ir fill of  restaurant dining (as excellent as it may be in Trieste), head straight to the entrance to the passen ger terminal at the port   just nort h of the Grand Canal for some of the fines t panini in town. The aptly named Street Food Trieste is actually a large gourmet food truck, which in addition to countless variety of  sandwiches also serves salads, hamburgers, sausages and more. Home, or hotel, delivery is also possible. Trieste In

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trieste inyourpo cket com

trieste.inyourpocket.com

The fish jota at Trattoria al Faro is one of many unique dishes to be found on menus in Trieste 2013

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RestauRants

22

as a contemporary interpretation of classic Trieste cuisine, with traditional regional ingredients presented in new and exciting ways. Likewise the space itself is a combination new and old, with minimalist red and white déc or and an open kitchen set below a vaulted stone ceilin g in an historic building. Highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00-23:00.

Le Dune di Piero E-6, Via Riccardo Bazzoni 11/A-B, tel. +39 040 322 9718/+39 339 782 8174, [email protected], [email protected], www.ledunedipiero.com.Specialising in cuisine from the Abruzzo region, Le Dune is one of the rare undiscovered highlights of Trieste’s gastronomic scene (much like Abruzzo itself). Characterised by simple ingredien ts, which are combined to produce strong robust flavours, the food is a direct reflection of the region’s rugged mountain terrain combined with its long maritime traditions. In addition to the exceptional exceptional food, the genuinely friendly service and attention to details helps to set Le Dune apart, with Piero himself  guiding patrons through the daily offers and ample wine list, while his mother works her magic in the kitchen. Hidden on a narrow residential street to the east of the castle, Le Dune is definitely one worth finding.

Pepenero Pepebianco F-2, Via Cecilia de Rittmeyer 14a, tel. +39 040 760 0716, [email protected], www.pepeneropepebianco.it. Opened in 2008 in beautifully renovated and modernised premises that  were previously used as a wine warehouse and before that a Habsburg-era stable for officers, Pepenero Pepebianco is the  first restaurant of ac claimed chef Mi chele Grandi. Oper ating  under a motto of ‘authentic passion’, the cuisine here is a balance between tradition and innovation, innovation, using fresh local ingredients and recipes, with modern culiinary techniques such as vacuum and low-temperature cooking. Most importantly, the results are delicious! Check their website or 

RestauRants Facebook page to see if a concert evening or other event  is taking place while you’re in town. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00-22:30. Closed Mon. PJA

Trattoria Da Giovanni F-4, Via San Lazzaro 14b, tel. +39 040 639 396, www.trattoriadagiovanni.com. Opened in 1961, Da Giovanni is one of the old est restaurants in Trieste, and has only got b etter with age. A exceedingly simple affair, affair, the most popular item on the menu is the hand-sliced ham, serve d either in a small sand wich (mustard and horseradish optional) or just rolled up and stuck on the toothpick, while a selection of freshly prepared dishes (grilled vegetables, casseroles, fried  fish, etc) is also always available. Quick, cheap and tasty, it’s a popular lunchtime or late snack stop for workers and students. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00, 16:30-22:30. Closed Sun.

Pizza DNapoli D-4, Via Diaz 10, tel. +39 040 260 1141, www. pizzeriadnapoli.it. We have two hard and fast rules for visitors to Italy: 1) Drink as much espresso as you can, and 2) Eat  as much pizza and gelato as you can. Sticking to the second rule in Trieste we head straight to Pizzeria di Napoli, a couple of blocks west of the Piazza Unita. They offer up some of the city’s best pizzas cooked to perfection in the wood fired oven and what better way to complete a meal than with espresso (order it correto for a real treat) and gelato. QOpen 12:00 15:00, 19:00-23:30.

Marinato D-4, Riva Nazario Sauro 4, tel. +39 040 310 Trieste no restauran ts are more common than those 412. In Trieste serving either seafood or pizza, but very few specialise in both - at least until Marinato opened in the spring of 2013. Located in a prime position along the waterfront promenade, just one block west of the grand Savoia Excelsior Hotel, Marinato’s

interior has been created to resemble a typical fish market, with lots of blue and white tiles, high wood-beam ceilings and a pizza oven doing its impersonation of a lighthouse. The seafood dishes a served simple and fresh, while a sign behind the counter charmingly assures guests that the pizzas are made with love.

Peperino Pizza & Grill G-2, Via del Coroneo 19c, tel. +39 040 631234, 631234, w ww.peperinopizza.it. Specialising in Neapolitan cuisine from old family recipes, includin g of course the city’s famous pizza, Peperino is owned by the Pietro and Susanna, a entrepreneur from Naples and a former Miss Italy   from Trieste respectively. The restaurant near Piazza Oberdan is especially popular with various well-known personalities from across Friuli Venezia Giulia, and it’s said that there’s hardly a show, concert or movie premier in the region that doesn’t end at Peperino, which is made easier by the fact that th ere are also locations in Udine and Pordenone, as well as Milan. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:30, Sat-Sun 19:00-23:30.

Quick Eats Burger King Viale XX Settembre 25, www.burgerking. it. Although we generally try to watch our waistlines, when it comes time to choose a ubiquitous international international cheeseburger chain to dine at we’ve always tended to favour Burger  King over the competition. We also have to say that when it  comes to aesthetics Burger King’s Trieste outlet is a notch or two above what we’re used to - with backlit black signage on the façade and an interior that could easily be mistaken  for a trendy modern bistro. No ne ed to fret th ough, it is still the home of the Whopper. Q Open Sun-Thur 11:00-00:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-03:00. PTJAS

Vegetarian Zoe Food D-5, Via Felice Venezian 24/A, tel. +39 040 246 0420/+39 334 189 6029, www.zoefood.com. Walking into Zoe for the first time on a rainy Saturday gave us flashbacks to our days in Brooklyn, and not just because bagels feature prominently on the menu. Offering an assortment of organic (and mostly vegetarian/vegan) food, the place is guaranteed to be packed with a cross-section of healthconscious locals, who also appreciate a good meal as much as they do environmental sustainability. The menu is inspired by various cuisines from around the world, with Latin America  featuring promine ntly, and the drinks (from fair tra de coffee and coconut milk to Mexican beer and smoothies) are simply  divine. If you’re as impressed as we are, there is information about franchising on their website. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:00.

Around Trieste Casa Rosandra Localita’ Mattonaia Triestina 217, San Dorligo della Valle-Dolina, tel./fax +39 040 832 3463, www.casarosandra.com. The fact that it’s located some 8km south of Trieste’s Trieste’s city c entre, doesn’t see m to affect the popularity of this long-running pizzeria and restaurant. Packed at lunchtime with workers from the surrounding offices and  factories, in the evening it’s sure to be bustlin g with families, large groups, various sports teams and the odd foreign tourist who finds their way out here. The pizzas are said to be legendary in these parts, although the menu also includes a wide selection of pastas, grilled dishes and international standards. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 18:30-23:00. Closed for  lunch on Sat. PTALBSW

McDonald’s Svevo 14, Torri d’Europa Shopping Centre, tel. +39 040 634 399, ww w.mcdonalds.it. Going against  the usual trend of expanding their number of locations, once plentiful McD onald’s chain is now down to a single restaurant  in Trieste, Trieste, which is lo cated on level thre e of the Torri d’Europa shopping centre in the far south of the ci ty. If you find yourself  craving a Big Mac while in town, bus lines 1, 8, 29 and night  line B will all get you here from the city centre. Q Open Sun Thur 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. PTALS

*senza glutine

Street Food Trieste E-2/3, Piazza Luigi Amedeo Duca degli Abruzzi 3, tel. +39 328 842 4711, www.streetfoodtrieste.it. For those in a rush or have just had the ir fill of  restaurant dining (as excellent as it may be in Trieste), head straight to the entrance to the passen ger terminal at the port   just nort h of the Grand Canal for some of the fines t panini in town. The aptly named Street Food Trieste is actually a large gourmet food truck, which in addition to countless variety of  sandwiches also serves salads, hamburgers, sausages and more. Home, or hotel, delivery is also possible. Trieste In

Your Po cket

trieste.inyourpo cket.com

Cafés

24

Combing the legendary café culture of Habsburg-era Vienna with the insatiable love of coffee that can be found throughout Italy, relaxing at a few of Trieste’s many cafés is an integral park of any visit to the city. From the old haunts of James Joyce and true historical institutions to modern coffee bars and hip student hang outs, there is definitely something for every taste - as long as that taste involves roasted coffee beans! NEw 

Audace Caffe D-4, Piazza Unità D’Italia 3a. This longrunning café on Trieste’s main square has recently reopened under new management, with a new look and style. The kitchen is now run by noted young chef Raffaele Visciano, who has already made a name for himself with several other  successful culinary ventures in the city and elsewhere in Italy. The menu includes some tasty, creative snacks to go with the great views, and more is in store for the future. Q Open 08:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 09:00-02:00.

Caffe degli Specchi D-4, Piazza dell’Unità D’Italia 7, tel. +39 040 661 973, www.caffespecchi.it. Prime of  prime locations, th e ‘mirrors’ cafe sits on Piazza Unità d’Italia, Trieste’s gem of a main square. Of course the price you pay  reflects the spot, but this is a place with a lot of history, in a  famous coffee town. That combined with the locati on means that finding a outside on a sunny day (or inside if the weather  is being uncooperative) can be a monumental task, especially  when there’s a ‘unity square’ event going on. Caffe San Marco G-3, Via Cesare Battisti 18, tel. +39 040 363 538. An authentic Hapsburg, or even Viennese-style affair in central Trieste. Doesn’t look like there has been any attempt to update its look in the last  100 years, which is clearly long enough to warrant the term ‘antiquated’ rather than ‘dated’. Mahogany features and furniture, excellent coffee, good food and wine, and such a literary atmosphere as to allude to the presence of  a modern day Joyce at one of the other tables. So many  cafes well worth visiting in Trieste, this is cer tainly one of  them. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00.

este that can rightly be considered as cultural and historical institutions unto them selves, Tommaseo may very well be our   favourite. Named for the note d Italian linguist and writer Niccoló Tommaseo - an small exhibition of whom can be viewed in the glass case to your left upon entering - we feel at least  a half more sophisticated whilst drinking coffee here. Wellworn wood floors and comfortable seating gives the place an intimate cosy feeling, but don’t be shocked when the bill  for two cappuccinos doesn’t lea ve much change from a €10 note.

Espressamente Illy F-4, Via delle Torri 3, tel. +39 040 765251, www.illy.com. Illy’s own-brand café is as trendy  and popular as you would expect of a venture from one of  the world’s top coffee producers. The long narrow bar is an exercise in functional chaos, with a crowd of jostling patrons shouting orders on one side and uniformed baristas running  around on the other, but somehow everyone getting what  they ordered posthaste. Find it in the pedestrian area just  behind the Church of St Antonio Nuovo. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. 6B

La Portizza E-4, Piazza della Borsa 5/B, tel. +39 338 192 8222, [email protected]. A bastion of youth culture in the city, La Portizza is a lively haunt after 7pm, with music, a noisy happy hour and overall festive atmosphere. Appropriately the description begins with the evening, but the venue’s attraction does not end there. Popular for breakfast, they  serve snacks, coffee, the classic aperitif and a selection of  wines from their long bar. Quick service and winning location (on one of the main squares) make it well worth a visit either  day or night. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

Pasticceria Penso D-4, Via Armando Diaz 11, tel.

Caffé Tommaseo E-3, Piazza Nicolò Tommaseo Tommaseo 4/C,

+39 040 301 530, www.pasticceriapenso.com. Reputedly the best in the city, Penso is actually just a shop (unlike some of the ‘pasticceria’ which function as cafés too), but there is ample seating a couple of blocks away  by the water. Perhaps their guests would never leave if  they had chairs and tables inside, given that their cakes, pastries, chocolates, every imaginable sweet local delight, are top notch. Located a few streets south-west of Piazza Unità d’Italia.

tel. +39 040 362666, [email protected], www. caffetommaseo.com. One of several coffee houses in Tri-

Pasticceria Pirona G-5, Largo Barriera Vecchia 12,

Caffè Teatro Verdi D-4, Piazza Verdi 1b, tel. +39 040 773 903, [email protected], www. caffeteatroverdi.com. A modern café located on the ground floor of  one of Trieste’s most  historic buildings - the  famed Teatro Verdi Verdi - this place is a favourite stop  for members of the city’s arts and culture crowd. From a breakfast brioche and coffee, to casual business lunches (ask for the daily  special), to pre- and post-performance drinks in the evenings, Caffè Teatro Verdi is sure to be buzzing with activity no matter when you happen to drop by. And you don’t have to take our word for it - the café was selected by the prestigious Gambero Rosso for its Bars of Italy  2012 book.

Trieste In

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tel. +39 040 636046, www.pirona.it. A visit to the famed Pirona café is a must for any literary connoisseurs or those who’ve come to Trieste for the full James Joyce experience. Opened around the turn of the 20th century by Alber to Pirona, Joyce was a frequent visitor here during his decade spent in the city, especially from 1910-12 when he lived just down the street. Historical novelty aside, they still turn out some  fine pastries and other sweets, and also stock importe d English jam, French tea and countless varieties of chocolate. Most locals pop in for a quick espresso and cream filled puff  pastry on the way to or from work. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sun 07:30:13:30. TJN

Stella Polare F-4, Via Dante Alighieri 14, tel. +39 040 632742. The ‘north star’ is indeed a blinding light, showing wandering (locals) the way through i t’s doors since all the way in 1865. Through the city’s ages it has also been shifted around, in 1904 the old building in which it was housed was demolished and it was temporarily at  home in a pavilion of wood and plaster, before assuming its current spot. At its peak the cafe had pool halls, meeting  rooms, and was frequently visited by by German colonial merchants and intellectuals. Nowadays affordable food and abundant sweets add to the beverage offerings, the surroundings elegant and historic. trieste inyourpo cket com

trieste.inyourpocket.com

The fish jota at Trattoria al Faro is one of many unique dishes to be found on menus in Trieste 2013

23

Cafés

24

Combing the legendary café culture of Habsburg-era Vienna with the insatiable love of coffee that can be found throughout Italy, relaxing at a few of Trieste’s many cafés is an integral park of any visit to the city. From the old haunts of James Joyce and true historical institutions to modern coffee bars and hip student hang outs, there is definitely something for every taste - as long as that taste involves roasted coffee beans! NEw 

Audace Caffe D-4, Piazza Unità D’Italia 3a. This longrunning café on Trieste’s main square has recently reopened under new management, with a new look and style. The kitchen is now run by noted young chef Raffaele Visciano, who has already made a name for himself with several other  successful culinary ventures in the city and elsewhere in Italy. The menu includes some tasty, creative snacks to go with the great views, and more is in store for the future. Q Open 08:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 09:00-02:00.

Caffe degli Specchi D-4, Piazza dell’Unità D’Italia 7, tel. +39 040 661 973, www.caffespecchi.it. Prime of  prime locations, th e ‘mirrors’ cafe sits on Piazza Unità d’Italia, Trieste’s gem of a main square. Of course the price you pay  reflects the spot, but this is a place with a lot of history, in a  famous coffee town. That combined with the locati on means that finding a outside on a sunny day (or inside if the weather  is being uncooperative) can be a monumental task, especially  when there’s a ‘unity square’ event going on. Caffe San Marco G-3, Via Cesare Battisti 18, tel. +39 040 363 538. An authentic Hapsburg, or even Viennese-style affair in central Trieste. Doesn’t look like there has been any attempt to update its look in the last  100 years, which is clearly long enough to warrant the term ‘antiquated’ rather than ‘dated’. Mahogany features and furniture, excellent coffee, good food and wine, and such a literary atmosphere as to allude to the presence of  a modern day Joyce at one of the other tables. So many  cafes well worth visiting in Trieste, this is cer tainly one of  them. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00.

Espressamente Illy F-4, Via delle Torri 3, tel. +39 040 765251, www.illy.com. Illy’s own-brand café is as trendy  and popular as you would expect of a venture from one of  the world’s top coffee producers. The long narrow bar is an exercise in functional chaos, with a crowd of jostling patrons shouting orders on one side and uniformed baristas running  around on the other, but somehow everyone getting what  they ordered posthaste. Find it in the pedestrian area just  behind the Church of St Antonio Nuovo. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. 6B

La Portizza E-4, Piazza della Borsa 5/B, tel. +39 338 192 8222, [email protected]. A bastion of youth culture in the city, La Portizza is a lively haunt after 7pm, with music, a noisy happy hour and overall festive atmosphere. Appropriately the description begins with the evening, but the venue’s attraction does not end there. Popular for breakfast, they  serve snacks, coffee, the classic aperitif and a selection of  wines from their long bar. Quick service and winning location (on one of the main squares) make it well worth a visit either  day or night. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

Pasticceria Penso D-4, Via Armando Diaz 11, tel.

Caffé Tommaseo E-3, Piazza Nicolò Tommaseo Tommaseo 4/C,

+39 040 301 530, www.pasticceriapenso.com. Reputedly the best in the city, Penso is actually just a shop (unlike some of the ‘pasticceria’ which function as cafés too), but there is ample seating a couple of blocks away  by the water. Perhaps their guests would never leave if  they had chairs and tables inside, given that their cakes, pastries, chocolates, every imaginable sweet local delight, are top notch. Located a few streets south-west of Piazza Unità d’Italia.

tel. +39 040 362666, [email protected], www. caffetommaseo.com. One of several coffee houses in Tri-

Pasticceria Pirona G-5, Largo Barriera Vecchia 12,

Caffè Teatro Verdi D-4, Piazza Verdi 1b, tel. +39 040 773 903, [email protected], www. caffeteatroverdi.com. A modern café located on the ground floor of  one of Trieste’s most  historic buildings - the  famed Teatro Verdi Verdi - this place is a favourite stop  for members of the city’s arts and culture crowd. From a breakfast brioche and coffee, to casual business lunches (ask for the daily  special), to pre- and post-performance drinks in the evenings, Caffè Teatro Verdi is sure to be buzzing with activity no matter when you happen to drop by. And you don’t have to take our word for it - the café was selected by the prestigious Gambero Rosso for its Bars of Italy  2012 book.

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este that can rightly be considered as cultural and historical institutions unto them selves, Tommaseo may very well be our   favourite. Named for the note d Italian linguist and writer Niccoló Tommaseo - an small exhibition of whom can be viewed in the glass case to your left upon entering - we feel at least  a half more sophisticated whilst drinking coffee here. Wellworn wood floors and comfortable seating gives the place an intimate cosy feeling, but don’t be shocked when the bill  for two cappuccinos doesn’t lea ve much change from a €10 note.

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tel. +39 040 636046, www.pirona.it. A visit to the famed Pirona café is a must for any literary connoisseurs or those who’ve come to Trieste for the full James Joyce experience. Opened around the turn of the 20th century by Alber to Pirona, Joyce was a frequent visitor here during his decade spent in the city, especially from 1910-12 when he lived just down the street. Historical novelty aside, they still turn out some  fine pastries and other sweets, and also stock importe d English jam, French tea and countless varieties of chocolate. Most locals pop in for a quick espresso and cream filled puff  pastry on the way to or from work. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sun 07:30:13:30. TJN

Stella Polare F-4, Via Dante Alighieri 14, tel. +39 040 632742. The ‘north star’ is indeed a blinding light, showing wandering (locals) the way through i t’s doors since all the way in 1865. Through the city’s ages it has also been shifted around, in 1904 the old building in which it was housed was demolished and it was temporarily at  home in a pavilion of wood and plaster, before assuming its current spot. At its peak the cafe had pool halls, meeting  rooms, and was frequently visited by by German colonial merchants and intellectuals. Nowadays affordable food and abundant sweets add to the beverage offerings, the surroundings elegant and historic. trieste.inyourpo cket.com

Nightlife

Nightlife is one of the most popular places for Trieste’s Trieste’s cool crowd to hang out. If you’re just passing through town, and thus sadly  not a card carrying member of the Italian literati, you can still appreciate the comfy seating, cosy atmosphere, lively buzz of  conversations and free-flowing drinks. Find it down a side street  off Via Cavana, in close proximity to many other recommendable nightlife venues. Q Open 10:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. 10:00-20:00. Closed on Sun in winter.

Life Café D-5, Cavana 1, tel. +39 040 322 9802. A bit  on the swanky side (the ‘i’ in the logotype is rather noticeably  a martini glass) but thankfully not enough to be considered pretentious, Life attracts hoards of Trieste’s well-dressed young  professional set who come for the expertly prepared cocktails and buzzing conversation. Its position on the pedestrianised Via Cavana a couple minutes’ walk from Place dell’Unita d’Italia make it a convenient early stop during a night of bar hopping  and pub crawling. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.

During the warmer months Trieste’s nightlife moves outside to various sidewalk cafés and wine bars, like here at SaluMare, one of  our favourites, photo by YMB Trieste is not exactly a top destination for 24-hour party  people, but it does have a very lively nightlife scene where a late afternoon aperitif can easily lead to an early morning taxi ride home, with a couple of typical local meals, several new friends and lots of memorable conversations often falling in between - at least that’s always been our  experience. As with the rest of Italy, there is often a very   fine line separating ca fés and bars here, but in this section we’ve tried to include those that fit more squarely in the second category. If you’re looking for one area of town to concentrate your drinking efforts in, look towards the trendy  Cavana neighbourhood to the west of Piazza Unità, where a cool new bar or restaurant seems to open every week or so these days. However, various other worthy beer halls, clubs, rock bars and more are scattered elsewhere in town.

Bars Bar Stella D-4, Largo Pitteri 4. One of our favourite bars in Trieste, Trieste, most nights of the week you’re guaranteed to find a crowd of university-age kids spilling out of the tiny in terior into the street, usually stopping by for a few drinks before heading  somewhere else. Located just across the street from the central square it’s surprisingly non-touristy and reasonably  priced - or at least for wine, beer will still set you back some €5 as it does most everywhere in town. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. JBX Caffe Rossetti H-3, Viale XX Settembre 45, tel. +39 040 3593511, www.ilrossetti.it. Again a fusion of bar/  restaurant and indeed caffe, Rossetti’s recipe comprises the main ingredients: haute cuisine cool music. Located in the elegant theatre of the most important theatre foundation of  Trieste (Politeama Rossetti) means the walls are adorned with thespian faces, there’s soft lighting, and a soundtrack to please most artistic types (jaz z, blues and indie-pop). Of the dishes on offer, the most prominant are perhaps those with fish (tr y the  jota ‘in a box’ with smoked smoked mackarel). That should be followed by dessert, coffee and, if it’s Saturday, dancing into the night. Trieste In

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Circus F-4, Via San Lazzaro 9, tel. +39 040 633 499, www.circustrieste.com. This Trieste institution has been around for more than a decade, and is nothing short of an obligatory stop for the city’s cool crowd on any night out. While it may be lacking in acrobats and wild animals, the place does have personality to spare, with walls covered in an eclectic collection of framed movie posters, black and white photos and celebrity portraits, and an equally varied selection of music pumped out of the DJ booth b ehind the bar. It’s also open during the day for coffee, snacks or the perfectly acceptable late morning or early afternoon tipple.

Golden Horse Via Eugenio Scomparini 7, tel. +39 040 947 303, www.golden-horse.it. As reliable as a golden horse unequivocally is, this one is a simple yet attractive, spacious yet cosy, social place to be. We were recommended the crepes with cho colate, which didn’t disappoint. There’s a range of beers (always welcome), and as such it is popular  with the local youth, plus they open the doors in the summer. The food on offer fits the loose category of ‘European’. Located approximately approximately three kilometres inland from the coast, near the natural history museum. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon.

Grip Wunderbar E/F-5, Via San Giusto 22, tel. +39 380 290 4247. One of our favourites in Trieste, and as you’ll s ee  from the cool crowds spilling out into the adjacent streets streets we’re we’re not the only ones who feel this way. The first time we came here there was either a live band playing Ryan Adams covers or Ryan Adams himself playing an unannounced gig - and Grip is the kind of place where the latter would not be surprising. Located just below the southern walls of the castle, from Wednesday to Saturday you can expect to find a packed house, an eclectic choice of live music and somewhat eccentric staff  members making sure no one goes without a drink. QOpen 22:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Knulp D-5, Madonna del Mare 7a, tel. +39 040 3000 21, [email protected], knulp.org. Café, bar, library, live concert  venue, exhibition space, arthouse cinema and more, Knulp

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Osteria Da Marino E-4, Via del Ponte 5, tel. +39 040 366 596, [email protected], [email protected],w ww.osteriadamarino. ww.osteriadamarino. com. Our first impressions were disproved here, to a c ertain extent. After dropping by for a quiet sociable drink, which it  looks perfectl y suitable for, we decided to stay for dinner on a whim. We were well rewarded. The quality of food was, given the lack of expectation, all the m ore impressive. The steak with different varieties of salt, after a starter of pasta, was divine. There’s good wine, both local and international, available for   €2-4 (at the time of writing: summer 2012), and the prices in general are extremely reasonable for such quality. Fantastico! Samovar F-4, Via Matteo Renato Imbriani 4, tel. +39 040 632547. It doesn’t get much more local than this small bar located down a side street just off the main Corso Italia shopping street. It makes for an interesting stop on a night of  bar hopping, or a quiet place to take a break with an excellent  coffee during the day - in eith er case you’re guaranteed to strike up a conversation with curious locals. Sandwiches and other  small snacks are also available and have been thoroughly  approved by In Your Pocket’s editorial team.

Wine Bars Ai Santi Vignaioli D-5, Via Felice Venezian 14, tel. +39 339 247 1018. One of several newly opened nightlife venues in the now super trendy Cavana neighbourhood, the original stone walls and brick arches have been completely restored, giving the interior the warm ambiance of a wine cellar despite being at street level. The wines have been carefully sele cted by the owner from his favourite local and regional producers, and everything  that’s available can be viewed on a large black chalkboard with (quite reasonable) per glass prices also listed. QOpen 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00-24:00.

Angelina D-4, Via Luigi Cadorna 12/A. Not to be con fused with with the the restaurant restaurant of the samename just across the street (which is quite easy as there is no sign), this so-called ‚champagneria’ is about as cool as they come, and is perhaps our favourite of the several new nightspots that have opened recently in the historic waterfront district. Set in the minimally renovated premises of a former slaughterhouse slaughterhouse,, the ambience of the place is not unli ke that of an underground warehouse party, with a very mixed all-ages crowd. Try to grab a table in the back room, where seati ng is in low fold-out  wooden chairs transplanted from a long-shuttered cinema. Gran Malabar F-4, Piazza San Giovanni 6, tel. +39 040 636 226, [email protected]. While you may  not be able to tell from the nondescript green awning and kitschy mirrored sign above, this tiny corner bar is a Trieste institution and an absolute must for any fans of wine visiting the city. With some 600-700 different varieties lining  shelves that almost reach the incredibly high ceilings, the  focus is on on vintages from from the wine wine growing regions regions of Friuli Venezia Giulia and neighbouring Slovenia, but you can find bottles from around the world (a label from the Francis Ford Coppola winery in California caught our eye recently), as well as gregarious locals willing to share stories of the bar, the wine and old Trieste. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

Tea Room D-4, Via Luigi Cadorna 2, tel. +39 040 774 325, [email protected], www.tearoom-trieste. com. Trieste’s trendy set is sure to be on this new concept  bar’s list of regular evening clientele, being super popular for  after-work drinks, accompanied by bar snacks. Cocktails keep the party rolling un til the early hours. Additional offerings in terms of food include pasta dishes and salads, so it also works for a light lunch (from their €10 menu). Worth checking  out if there are any special events happening during your stay,  for example example wine tasting with buffet.

The Tender A-5, Via Giulio Cesare 1, tel. +39 040 305 654. Tucked away in the corner of an old railway station (Campo Marzio), the Tender counts as an ‘Irish-style’ pub, featuring  ales, Guinness plus burgers, sandwiches and grilled meat  galore. Theme parties make their appearance here on occasion, including karaoke, group dances and a locally legendary  carnival party. Parking also available, although probably not  wise if arriving in the evening hours (what with all that ale on offer, and the fact that it’s open till 3am). QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. Urbanis E-4, Piazza della Borsa 15, tel. +39 040 366 580. Situated halfway between the Piazzas Della Borsa and Unità d’Italia, this very chic affair is a pavement-side haunt of many  come evening. Especially good for a drink on balmy summer  evenings, when they also serve outside snacks with aperitif, cocktails, and host DJ sets for that matter. Average drinks and prices, but ab ove average staff; friendly waiters work with passion and can remember a face. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00.

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Pubs Bennigan’s B-6, Economo 3, tel. +39 040 306 840, www.benniganspub.com.Bennigan’s is more or less a full fledged restaurant masquerading as a simple pub, but wi th nearly three dozen beers from around the world available and an unmistakeable pub vibe to its credit, we have n o choice other  than including it in our nightlife sec tion. However, However, don’t let that  dissuade you from stopping by for lunch or dinner, especially  if you’re craving a burger, as you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better one anywhere in Trieste. Other dishes lean heavily  towards central European cuisine, with the likes of potato dumplings, goulash and boiled pork with cabbage all in high demand. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €4-14. Kapuziner D-4, Via Pozzo del Mare 1, tel. +39 040 307 997, [email protected], ww w.kapuzinerkelw.kapuzinerkellertrieste.it.A faithful reconstruction of a centuries-old Bavarian beer hall, Kapuziner is an atmospheric homage to Trieste’s Trieste’s Germanic heritage. Consisting of single long room with a high arched brick ceiling and walls decorated in all manner of faded signage, paintings, the checkered blue and white motif of the Bavarian flag and even a gigantic stag’s head moun ted on the  far wall, wall, in the evenings the place place gets packed with a youngish crowd that does its best to channel the raucous jubilance of  Oktoberfest. There’s also a full menu of hearty German cuisine, and of course plenty of authentic Bavarian beer on tap. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Sun. 2013

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Nightlife

Nightlife is one of the most popular places for Trieste’s Trieste’s cool crowd to hang out. If you’re just passing through town, and thus sadly  not a card carrying member of the Italian literati, you can still appreciate the comfy seating, cosy atmosphere, lively buzz of  conversations and free-flowing drinks. Find it down a side street  off Via Cavana, in close proximity to many other recommendable nightlife venues. Q Open 10:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. 10:00-20:00. Closed on Sun in winter.

Life Café D-5, Cavana 1, tel. +39 040 322 9802. A bit  on the swanky side (the ‘i’ in the logotype is rather noticeably  a martini glass) but thankfully not enough to be considered pretentious, Life attracts hoards of Trieste’s well-dressed young  professional set who come for the expertly prepared cocktails and buzzing conversation. Its position on the pedestrianised Via Cavana a couple minutes’ walk from Place dell’Unita d’Italia make it a convenient early stop during a night of bar hopping  and pub crawling. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.

During the warmer months Trieste’s nightlife moves outside to various sidewalk cafés and wine bars, like here at SaluMare, one of  our favourites, photo by YMB Trieste is not exactly a top destination for 24-hour party  people, but it does have a very lively nightlife scene where a late afternoon aperitif can easily lead to an early morning taxi ride home, with a couple of typical local meals, several new friends and lots of memorable conversations often falling in between - at least that’s always been our  experience. As with the rest of Italy, there is often a very   fine line separating ca fés and bars here, but in this section we’ve tried to include those that fit more squarely in the second category. If you’re looking for one area of town to concentrate your drinking efforts in, look towards the trendy  Cavana neighbourhood to the west of Piazza Unità, where a cool new bar or restaurant seems to open every week or so these days. However, various other worthy beer halls, clubs, rock bars and more are scattered elsewhere in town.

Bars Bar Stella D-4, Largo Pitteri 4. One of our favourite bars in Trieste, Trieste, most nights of the week you’re guaranteed to find a crowd of university-age kids spilling out of the tiny in terior into the street, usually stopping by for a few drinks before heading  somewhere else. Located just across the street from the central square it’s surprisingly non-touristy and reasonably  priced - or at least for wine, beer will still set you back some €5 as it does most everywhere in town. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. JBX Caffe Rossetti H-3, Viale XX Settembre 45, tel. +39 040 3593511, www.ilrossetti.it. Again a fusion of bar/  restaurant and indeed caffe, Rossetti’s recipe comprises the main ingredients: haute cuisine cool music. Located in the elegant theatre of the most important theatre foundation of  Trieste (Politeama Rossetti) means the walls are adorned with thespian faces, there’s soft lighting, and a soundtrack to please most artistic types (jaz z, blues and indie-pop). Of the dishes on offer, the most prominant are perhaps those with fish (tr y the  jota ‘in a box’ with smoked smoked mackarel). That should be followed by dessert, coffee and, if it’s Saturday, dancing into the night. Trieste In

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Circus F-4, Via San Lazzaro 9, tel. +39 040 633 499, www.circustrieste.com. This Trieste institution has been around for more than a decade, and is nothing short of an obligatory stop for the city’s cool crowd on any night out. While it may be lacking in acrobats and wild animals, the place does have personality to spare, with walls covered in an eclectic collection of framed movie posters, black and white photos and celebrity portraits, and an equally varied selection of music pumped out of the DJ booth b ehind the bar. It’s also open during the day for coffee, snacks or the perfectly acceptable late morning or early afternoon tipple.

Golden Horse Via Eugenio Scomparini 7, tel. +39 040 947 303, www.golden-horse.it. As reliable as a golden horse unequivocally is, this one is a simple yet attractive, spacious yet cosy, social place to be. We were recommended the crepes with cho colate, which didn’t disappoint. There’s a range of beers (always welcome), and as such it is popular  with the local youth, plus they open the doors in the summer. The food on offer fits the loose category of ‘European’. Located approximately approximately three kilometres inland from the coast, near the natural history museum. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon.

Grip Wunderbar E/F-5, Via San Giusto 22, tel. +39 380 290 4247. One of our favourites in Trieste, and as you’ll s ee  from the cool crowds spilling out into the adjacent streets streets we’re we’re not the only ones who feel this way. The first time we came here there was either a live band playing Ryan Adams covers or Ryan Adams himself playing an unannounced gig - and Grip is the kind of place where the latter would not be surprising. Located just below the southern walls of the castle, from Wednesday to Saturday you can expect to find a packed house, an eclectic choice of live music and somewhat eccentric staff  members making sure no one goes without a drink. QOpen 22:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Knulp D-5, Madonna del Mare 7a, tel. +39 040 3000 21, [email protected], knulp.org. Café, bar, library, live concert  venue, exhibition space, arthouse cinema and more, Knulp

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What to see

Miramare Castle

Essential Sights

Castello di Miramare Viale Miramare, tel. +39

drale 3, tel. +39 40 30 93 62. Trieste’s hilltop fortification is ironically overshadowed by its brother down on the seashore (Miramare), (Miramare), but the 15th century Castle of San Guisto is also worth a look, with several parts open to the public including a museum with suits of armour and weapons (for  whoever’s fancy this may tickle). We personally appreciated the magnificent panoramic view i t had to offer from its walls; the castle and fortifications having been built and extended progressively over two centuries. In fact, the castle itself  was erected on the strategically formidable site of previous  forts. See the L apidari o Tergestin o for s tatue s and architectural artefacts. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission €5.

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Samovar F-4, Via Matteo Renato Imbriani 4, tel. +39 040 632547. It doesn’t get much more local than this small bar located down a side street just off the main Corso Italia shopping street. It makes for an interesting stop on a night of  bar hopping, or a quiet place to take a break with an excellent  coffee during the day - in eith er case you’re guaranteed to strike up a conversation with curious locals. Sandwiches and other  small snacks are also available and have been thoroughly  approved by In Your Pocket’s editorial team.

Ai Santi Vignaioli D-5, Via Felice Venezian 14, tel. +39 339 247 1018. One of several newly opened nightlife venues in the now super trendy Cavana neighbourhood, the original stone walls and brick arches have been completely restored, giving the interior the warm ambiance of a wine cellar despite being at street level. The wines have been carefully sele cted by the owner from his favourite local and regional producers, and everything  that’s available can be viewed on a large black chalkboard with (quite reasonable) per glass prices also listed. QOpen 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00-24:00.

Angelina D-4, Via Luigi Cadorna 12/A. Not to be con fused with with the the restaurant restaurant of the samename just across the street (which is quite easy as there is no sign), this so-called ‚champagneria’ is about as cool as they come, and is perhaps our favourite of the several new nightspots that have opened recently in the historic waterfront district. Set in the minimally renovated premises of a former slaughterhouse slaughterhouse,, the ambience of the place is not unli ke that of an underground warehouse party, with a very mixed all-ages crowd. Try to grab a table in the back room, where seati ng is in low fold-out  wooden chairs transplanted from a long-shuttered cinema. Gran Malabar F-4, Piazza San Giovanni 6, tel. +39 040 636 226, [email protected]. While you may  not be able to tell from the nondescript green awning and kitschy mirrored sign above, this tiny corner bar is a Trieste institution and an absolute must for any fans of wine visiting the city. With some 600-700 different varieties lining  shelves that almost reach the incredibly high ceilings, the  focus is on on vintages from from the wine wine growing regions regions of Friuli Venezia Giulia and neighbouring Slovenia, but you can find bottles from around the world (a label from the Francis Ford Coppola winery in California caught our eye recently), as well as gregarious locals willing to share stories of the bar, the wine and old Trieste. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

Tea Room D-4, Via Luigi Cadorna 2, tel. +39 040 774 325, [email protected], www.tearoom-trieste. com. Trieste’s trendy set is sure to be on this new concept  bar’s list of regular evening clientele, being super popular for  after-work drinks, accompanied by bar snacks. Cocktails keep the party rolling un til the early hours. Additional offerings in terms of food include pasta dishes and salads, so it also works for a light lunch (from their €10 menu). Worth checking  out if there are any special events happening during your stay,  for example example wine tasting with buffet.

The Tender A-5, Via Giulio Cesare 1, tel. +39 040 305 654. Tucked away in the corner of an old railway station (Campo Marzio), the Tender counts as an ‘Irish-style’ pub, featuring  ales, Guinness plus burgers, sandwiches and grilled meat  galore. Theme parties make their appearance here on occasion, including karaoke, group dances and a locally legendary  carnival party. Parking also available, although probably not  wise if arriving in the evening hours (what with all that ale on offer, and the fact that it’s open till 3am). QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. Urbanis E-4, Piazza della Borsa 15, tel. +39 040 366 580. Situated halfway between the Piazzas Della Borsa and Unità d’Italia, this very chic affair is a pavement-side haunt of many  come evening. Especially good for a drink on balmy summer  evenings, when they also serve outside snacks with aperitif, cocktails, and host DJ sets for that matter. Average drinks and prices, but ab ove average staff; friendly waiters work with passion and can remember a face. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00.

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Pubs Bennigan’s B-6, Economo 3, tel. +39 040 306 840, www.benniganspub.com.Bennigan’s is more or less a full fledged restaurant masquerading as a simple pub, but wi th nearly three dozen beers from around the world available and an unmistakeable pub vibe to its credit, we have n o choice other  than including it in our nightlife sec tion. However, However, don’t let that  dissuade you from stopping by for lunch or dinner, especially  if you’re craving a burger, as you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better one anywhere in Trieste. Other dishes lean heavily  towards central European cuisine, with the likes of potato dumplings, goulash and boiled pork with cabbage all in high demand. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €4-14. Kapuziner D-4, Via Pozzo del Mare 1, tel. +39 040 307 997, [email protected], ww w.kapuzinerkelw.kapuzinerkellertrieste.it.A faithful reconstruction of a centuries-old Bavarian beer hall, Kapuziner is an atmospheric homage to Trieste’s Trieste’s Germanic heritage. Consisting of single long room with a high arched brick ceiling and walls decorated in all manner of faded signage, paintings, the checkered blue and white motif of the Bavarian flag and even a gigantic stag’s head moun ted on the  far wall, wall, in the evenings the place place gets packed with a youngish crowd that does its best to channel the raucous jubilance of  Oktoberfest. There’s also a full menu of hearty German cuisine, and of course plenty of authentic Bavarian beer on tap. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Sun. 2013

What to see

Looking like something out of the latest computer generated Hollywood fantasy film, this shot of Miramare Castle and the Dolomites is entirely real, photo by Marino Sterle

041 277 0470/+39 040 224143, inf [email protected], www.castellomiramare.org. In Europe, there are definitely larger castles, more historically  important castles, and castles with more renowned royal occupants, however, given Miramare’s position almost   just metr es above th e Medi terranea n Sea, with Trieste spread out before it to the south and the snow-capped Dolomites serving as a backdrop to the north, not to mention its unique architectural heritage and short but  tumultuous history, history, for our money there is no finer castle anywhere on the continent. Built in the mid-19th century to serve as the private residence of Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian (the younger brother of Emperor Franz Joseph) and his new wife, Charlotte of Belgium, the castle’s architecture is a direct reflection of Maximilian’s somewhat eclectic tastes, combining elements the Gothic, Medieval and Renaissance schools that were popular amongst  Habsburg nobility at the time. Completed in 1860, the young couple would spend only a few years here, as Maximilian became the Emperor of Mexico in 1864, and quite infamously met his demise only a few years later  at the ands of republican forces. In the following decades Miramare was used as the occasional holiday residence by less foolhardy members of  the Habsburg family, with Franz Ferdinand staying here only  two months before his own assassination in Sarajevo. After  WWI, the castle was partially opened to the public, and then served as the residence of various occupying forces (Germans, New Zealanders, the English and finally Americans) during and after WWII, before being returned to Italian control in 1954. The park grounds and castle museum were duly  restored and reopened to the public one year later.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 14:00 - 19:00. Admission €6/4, €1 for  EU citizens under 18 or over 65. Audio-guides €3.50, and guided tours €4 with advanced booking.

Osteria Da Marino E-4, Via del Ponte 5, tel. +39 040 366 596, [email protected], [email protected],w ww.osteriadamarino. ww.osteriadamarino. com. Our first impressions were disproved here, to a c ertain extent. After dropping by for a quiet sociable drink, which it  looks perfectl y suitable for, we decided to stay for dinner on a whim. We were well rewarded. The quality of food was, given the lack of expectation, all the m ore impressive. The steak with different varieties of salt, after a starter of pasta, was divine. There’s good wine, both local and international, available for   €2-4 (at the time of writing: summer 2012), and the prices in general are extremely reasonable for such quality. Fantastico!

Wine Bars

Castello di San Giusto E/F-5, Piazza della Catte-

City Sightseeing Bus Tel. +39 39 3917 2656, www. city-sightseeing.com. The famous red hop-on hop-off  bus is the easiest and most convenient way to see all of  Trieste’s major sights, without having to worry about hiring a guide, getting lost or hassling with parking. The route begins at the easy to find Stazione Marittima on the waterfront, traverses the narrow streets up to San Giusto castle and cathedral, and criss-crosses the hectic city centre before heading all the way out to Miramare castle and back. The entire route takes approximately one hour, but if you’d like to make a day of it and explore the sights in more d etail or  take a break for lunch, you can h op-off at any of the 13 stops along the way. Audio tours are available in seven languages, and tickets are also good for 48 hours, allowing for ample  flexib ilit y or rep eated visit s. Q Tours operate from March to October, with departures at 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 and 17:00.

Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia D-4. Trieste’s magnifi cent  main square is without question the most famous sight in the city centre, a hub of social activity and the source of immeasurable pride for locals. Said to be the largest sea-facing  square in all of Europe at some 12,280m2, the space has undergone numerous changes over its more than 700 years of existence. Originally known as St Peter’s Square, for much

trieste inyourpo cket com

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What to see

What to see

Looking like something out of the latest computer generated Hollywood fantasy film, this shot of Miramare Castle and the Dolomites is entirely real, photo by Marino Sterle

Miramare Castle

Essential Sights

Castello di Miramare Viale Miramare, tel. +39

drale 3, tel. +39 40 30 93 62. Trieste’s hilltop fortification is ironically overshadowed by its brother down on the seashore (Miramare), (Miramare), but the 15th century Castle of San Guisto is also worth a look, with several parts open to the public including a museum with suits of armour and weapons (for  whoever’s fancy this may tickle). We personally appreciated the magnificent panoramic view i t had to offer from its walls; the castle and fortifications having been built and extended progressively over two centuries. In fact, the castle itself  was erected on the strategically formidable site of previous  forts. See the L apidari o Tergestin o for s tatue s and architectural artefacts. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission €5.

041 277 0470/+39 040 224143, inf [email protected], www.castellomiramare.org. In Europe, there are definitely larger castles, more historically  important castles, and castles with more renowned royal occupants, however, given Miramare’s position almost   just metr es above th e Medi terranea n Sea, with Trieste spread out before it to the south and the snow-capped Dolomites serving as a backdrop to the north, not to mention its unique architectural heritage and short but  tumultuous history, history, for our money there is no finer castle anywhere on the continent. Built in the mid-19th century to serve as the private residence of Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian (the younger brother of Emperor Franz Joseph) and his new wife, Charlotte of Belgium, the castle’s architecture is a direct reflection of Maximilian’s somewhat eclectic tastes, combining elements the Gothic, Medieval and Renaissance schools that were popular amongst  Habsburg nobility at the time. Completed in 1860, the young couple would spend only a few years here, as Maximilian became the Emperor of Mexico in 1864, and quite infamously met his demise only a few years later  at the ands of republican forces. In the following decades Miramare was used as the occasional holiday residence by less foolhardy members of  the Habsburg family, with Franz Ferdinand staying here only  two months before his own assassination in Sarajevo. After  WWI, the castle was partially opened to the public, and then served as the residence of various occupying forces (Germans, New Zealanders, the English and finally Americans) during and after WWII, before being returned to Italian control in 1954. The park grounds and castle museum were duly  restored and reopened to the public one year later.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 14:00 - 19:00. Admission €6/4, €1 for  EU citizens under 18 or over 65. Audio-guides €3.50, and guided tours €4 with advanced booking.

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Castello di San Giusto E/F-5, Piazza della Catte-

City Sightseeing Bus Tel. +39 39 3917 2656, www. city-sightseeing.com. The famous red hop-on hop-off  bus is the easiest and most convenient way to see all of  Trieste’s major sights, without having to worry about hiring a guide, getting lost or hassling with parking. The route begins at the easy to find Stazione Marittima on the waterfront, traverses the narrow streets up to San Giusto castle and cathedral, and criss-crosses the hectic city centre before heading all the way out to Miramare castle and back. The entire route takes approximately one hour, but if you’d like to make a day of it and explore the sights in more d etail or  take a break for lunch, you can h op-off at any of the 13 stops along the way. Audio tours are available in seven languages, and tickets are also good for 48 hours, allowing for ample  flexib ilit y or rep eated visit s. Q Tours operate from March to October, with departures at 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 and 17:00.

Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia D-4. Trieste’s magnifi cent  main square is without question the most famous sight in the city centre, a hub of social activity and the source of immeasurable pride for locals. Said to be the largest sea-facing  square in all of Europe at some 12,280m2, the space has undergone numerous changes over its more than 700 years of existence. Originally known as St Peter’s Square, for much

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What to see of its history it was referred to simply as Piazza Grande (which nowadays is still used colloquially, along with the Slovene equivalent Veliki trg), before changing to Piazza Unità after  the city was annexed by the Kingdom of Italy following WWI, and only settling on its more verbose current form in 1955 when the Free Territory of Trieste formally reverted to Italian control. Semantics aside, the square is fronted by some of  the city’s most impressive and important buildings, as well as several large monuments, a couple of historical cafés and innumerable architectural details that are sure to provide camera-happy visitors with plenty to snap away at.

Teatro Romano E-4, Via del Teatro Romano. During  the 1st and 2nd centuries the city of Trieste developed immensely, and as such received its ampitheatre around that time. Inscriptions on the stru cture implicate Q. Petronius Modestus as instrumental in its construction, which at the time exploited the gentle slopes overlooking the sea, however, progressive silting has meant the shore is now somewhat further out. Originally built of both stone and wood structure (the stands having been made of the  former, the top s teps and stage the latte r), the quinte ssential Roman edifice continues to impress, its statues (previously decorating the theatre) now on exhibition at  the town museum. Q Admission free.

Museums & Galleries Civico Acquario Marino C-4, Molo Pescheria 2, tel. +39 040 306 201, fax +39 040 302 563, museisci@ comune.trieste.it, www.retecivica.trieste.it. Trieste’s city aquarium is easy to find along the waterfront, as it’s housed in one wing of the former fish mongers building, distinguished by a red brick façade and large bell tower - the latter  actually constructed to obscure an unsightly water-pumping  mechanism. Originally constru cted in 1913, the aquarium was opened in 1933 and is now home to many species primarily   from the Adriatic s ea. In 1998, an exhibi tion of amphibi ans and reptiles was also added on the first floor, while the star  attractions here are usually consid ered to be the pair of South African penguins, who unofficially double as the institutions mascots. Q Open Tues-Sun 09:00-19:00 from 1 April to 3 1  Oct. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50 for adults, €2.50 reduce d, children under 5 free.

Civico Museo Teatrale Carlo Schmidl Rossini 4, tel. (+39) 40 67 54 072, [email protected], www.retecivica.trieste.it. A specialised collection dedicated to theatre and music, the museum was initially set up in 1924 by its namesake composer and until th e early 1990s

Tourist information FVG Cards [email protected], [email protected], www.turismofvg. it. Good for the entire region of Friuli Venezia Giula, this is likely the best value tourist card we’ve ever come across in all our years of travel. Offering free admission to most major museums and public transport (in Udine and Lignano, but unfortunately not Trieste), as well discounts on various theatres, spas, parks, tours and specialty transportation services, even the shorter  duration cards will pay for themsel ves in a hurry. They  can be bought online or directly from any FVG tourist of fice, and at many hotels, travel agenc ies and other locations. Costs € 15/20/29 15/20/29 for 48-/72-hour/7-day cards. Trieste Tourist Office D-4, Via dell’Orologio 1, tel. +39 040 3478312, fax +39 040 3478320, [email protected], www.turismofvg.it. Trieste’s official tourist information centre is located  just o ff the m ain squ are, oppos ite Har ry’s Bar a nd the entrance to the G rand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta. Run by TurTurismoFVG - the well-organised regional tourist authority   for all of Friu li Venezi a Giulia - the of fice ha s a wealth of  information abou t Trieste and the rest of the region in several languages, including guides organised both by  city and theme. Visitors can also purchase FVG cards (good for free or discounted admission to hundreds of sights and venues in across the region), rent audio tours, and get up-to-date info about everything that’s going on in town. Q Open 09:00-18:00, 09:00-13:00 Sun & holidays (Oct-Apr), 09:00-19:00, 09:00-13:00 Sun & holidays (May & Sept), and 09:00-19:00 ever yday from Jun-Aug.

was located in the Verdi Opera House. Nowadays the museum is housed in the Palazzo Gopcevic, a colourful edef ice of mixed styles (buil t in 1850 by Giovanni Berlam) on the Canal Grande. The collection includes two constituent parts: an exhibition covering the 19th and 20th centuries, with a large variety of  theatrical costumes, posters, programs, musical instruments (including grand piano, harmonium) on display; and a documentation centre with a library (containing 100,000 pieces especially on music and entertainment) and internationally  ly  significant archives. The Gopcevic location was unveiled in 2006, and has an interior of beautiful inlaid floors and ornate ceilings, making it the per fect place to retreat to for a relaxing  afternoon. Q Exhibiti on open Tues-Sun 09:00-19:00, closed Mon. Library and documentation centre open Mon & Wed 09:00-16:00, Tues, Tues, Thur & Fri 09:00-13:00, clos ed Sat-Sun. Admission €3.50/2.50. Free for children under 5 years.

Museo d’Arte Orientale D-4, San Sebastiano 1, tel.

One of Trieste’s most famous residents has immortalised with a statue on the Grand Canal, photo by Branka Jovanović Trieste In

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(+39) 40 32 20 736. The first and only museum in the region dedicated to the arts of Asia. Spread over an surprisingly  large space, four floors to be exact, its collection features  four clearly define d sec tions. Th e first introduc es relati ons between Trieste and the East during the 18th and 19th centuries (presumably in connection with industrialisation), the second exhibits Gandharan Buddhist sculpture, the third has all manner of textiles, ceramic ritual artifacts and of course chinaware (well you didn’t think they would forget that one). Confusingly the Japanese section (the fourth and final) also has chinaware, and if you can get over that there are also masks, musical instruments and weapons to gawk at on a lazy afternoon. The usual guided tours and bookshop are not  absent from the museum. Note that at the time of writing it  is closed for ‘technical reasons’. Q Open Wed & Sat 09:0013:00. Admission €3/2 for adults/children.

trieste inyourpo cket com

    i    n    a     l     i

    M  .     M     h    p

Discover Friuli Venezia Giulia’s art and culture! The Habsburg charm in Trieste in  Trieste,, the grace of Tiepolo’s works in Udine, Udine, the Roman mosaics in  Aquileia,  Aquileia , the sixteenth-century palaces in Pordenone, Pordenone , the castle of Gorizia, Gorizia, the ancient parish churches and villages. A holiday in Friuli Venezia Giulia means discovering thousands of stories.

Discover the offer dedicated to you on:

www.turismofvg www.turismofvg.it .it  v e f v g  g o l i i v

30

What to see of its history it was referred to simply as Piazza Grande (which nowadays is still used colloquially, along with the Slovene equivalent Veliki trg), before changing to Piazza Unità after  the city was annexed by the Kingdom of Italy following WWI, and only settling on its more verbose current form in 1955 when the Free Territory of Trieste formally reverted to Italian control. Semantics aside, the square is fronted by some of  the city’s most impressive and important buildings, as well as several large monuments, a couple of historical cafés and innumerable architectural details that are sure to provide camera-happy visitors with plenty to snap away at.

Teatro Romano E-4, Via del Teatro Romano. During  the 1st and 2nd centuries the city of Trieste developed immensely, and as such received its ampitheatre around that time. Inscriptions on the stru cture implicate Q. Petronius Modestus as instrumental in its construction, which at the time exploited the gentle slopes overlooking the sea, however, progressive silting has meant the shore is now somewhat further out. Originally built of both stone and wood structure (the stands having been made of the  former, the top s teps and stage the latte r), the quinte ssential Roman edifice continues to impress, its statues (previously decorating the theatre) now on exhibition at  the town museum. Q Admission free.

Museums & Galleries Civico Acquario Marino C-4, Molo Pescheria 2, tel. +39 040 306 201, fax +39 040 302 563, museisci@ comune.trieste.it, www.retecivica.trieste.it. Trieste’s city aquarium is easy to find along the waterfront, as it’s housed in one wing of the former fish mongers building, distinguished by a red brick façade and large bell tower - the latter  actually constructed to obscure an unsightly water-pumping  mechanism. Originally constru cted in 1913, the aquarium was opened in 1933 and is now home to many species primarily   from the Adriatic s ea. In 1998, an exhibi tion of amphibi ans and reptiles was also added on the first floor, while the star  attractions here are usually consid ered to be the pair of South African penguins, who unofficially double as the institutions mascots. Q Open Tues-Sun 09:00-19:00 from 1 April to 3 1  Oct. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50 for adults, €2.50 reduce d, children under 5 free.

Civico Museo Teatrale Carlo Schmidl Rossini 4, tel. (+39) 40 67 54 072, [email protected], www.retecivica.trieste.it. A specialised collection dedicated to theatre and music, the museum was initially set up in 1924 by its namesake composer and until th e early 1990s

Tourist information FVG Cards [email protected], [email protected], www.turismofvg. it. Good for the entire region of Friuli Venezia Giula, this is likely the best value tourist card we’ve ever come across in all our years of travel. Offering free admission to most major museums and public transport (in Udine and Lignano, but unfortunately not Trieste), as well discounts on various theatres, spas, parks, tours and specialty transportation services, even the shorter  duration cards will pay for themsel ves in a hurry. They  can be bought online or directly from any FVG tourist of fice, and at many hotels, travel agenc ies and other locations. Costs € 15/20/29 15/20/29 for 48-/72-hour/7-day cards. Trieste Tourist Office D-4, Via dell’Orologio 1, tel. +39 040 3478312, fax +39 040 3478320, [email protected], www.turismofvg.it. Trieste’s official tourist information centre is located  just o ff the m ain squ are, oppos ite Har ry’s Bar a nd the entrance to the G rand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta. Run by TurTurismoFVG - the well-organised regional tourist authority   for all of Friu li Venezi a Giulia - the of fice ha s a wealth of  information abou t Trieste and the rest of the region in several languages, including guides organised both by  city and theme. Visitors can also purchase FVG cards (good for free or discounted admission to hundreds of sights and venues in across the region), rent audio tours, and get up-to-date info about everything that’s going on in town. Q Open 09:00-18:00, 09:00-13:00 Sun & holidays (Oct-Apr), 09:00-19:00, 09:00-13:00 Sun & holidays (May & Sept), and 09:00-19:00 ever yday from Jun-Aug.

was located in the Verdi Opera House. Nowadays the museum is housed in the Palazzo Gopcevic, a colourful edef ice of mixed styles (buil t in 1850 by Giovanni Berlam) on the Canal Grande. The collection includes two constituent parts: an exhibition covering the 19th and 20th centuries, with a large variety of  theatrical costumes, posters, programs, musical instruments (including grand piano, harmonium) on display; and a documentation centre with a library (containing 100,000 pieces especially on music and entertainment) and internationally  ly  significant archives. The Gopcevic location was unveiled in 2006, and has an interior of beautiful inlaid floors and ornate ceilings, making it the per fect place to retreat to for a relaxing  afternoon. Q Exhibiti on open Tues-Sun 09:00-19:00, closed Mon. Library and documentation centre open Mon & Wed 09:00-16:00, Tues, Tues, Thur & Fri 09:00-13:00, clos ed Sat-Sun. Admission €3.50/2.50. Free for children under 5 years.

    i    n    a     l     i

    M  .     M     h    p

Discover Friuli Venezia Giulia’s art and culture!

Museo d’Arte Orientale D-4, San Sebastiano 1, tel.

One of Trieste’s most famous residents has immortalised with a statue on the Grand Canal, photo by Branka Jovanović Trieste In

32

The Habsburg charm in Trieste in  Trieste,, the grace of Tiepolo’s works in Udine, Udine, the Roman mosaics in  Aquileia,  Aquileia , the sixteenth-century palaces in Pordenone, Pordenone , the castle of Gorizia, Gorizia, the ancient parish churches and villages. A holiday in Friuli Venezia Giulia means discovering thousands of stories.

(+39) 40 32 20 736. The first and only museum in the region dedicated to the arts of Asia. Spread over an surprisingly  large space, four floors to be exact, its collection features  four clearly define d sec tions. Th e first introduc es relati ons between Trieste and the East during the 18th and 19th centuries (presumably in connection with industrialisation), the second exhibits Gandharan Buddhist sculpture, the third has all manner of textiles, ceramic ritual artifacts and of course chinaware (well you didn’t think they would forget that one). Confusingly the Japanese section (the fourth and final) also has chinaware, and if you can get over that there are also masks, musical instruments and weapons to gawk at on a lazy afternoon. The usual guided tours and bookshop are not  absent from the museum. Note that at the time of writing it  is closed for ‘technical reasons’. Q Open Wed & Sat 09:0013:00. Admission €3/2 for adults/children.

Your Po cket

Discover the offer dedicated to you on:

www.turismofvg www.turismofvg.it .it  v e f v g  g o l i i v

trieste.inyourpo cket.com

What to see Museo Revoltella (Galleria d’Arte Moderna) Diaz 27, tel. +39 040 675 4350, fax +39 040 675 4137, [email protected], www.museorevoltella.it. Our favourite Italian museum east of Venice, the Revoltella owes its existence (and name) to the baron Pasquale Revoltella, who bequeathed his palace, art collection and other personal effects to the city upon his d eath in 1869. Born to a wealthy Venetian family, family, the baron did quite well  for himsel f in Tries Tries te, makin g a fortun e in the tim ber in dustry, and later serving as one of the driving forces behind the construction of the m odern Suez Canal. Several of the palace’s rooms, including the baron’s private residence, have been preserved with their original furnishings and make up part of the impressive collection. In 1907, the adjacent Brunner Palace was purchased by t he city, which allowed for museum to be greatly expanded, while further  renovations have brought the current exhibition space to more than 4000 square metres.

Palmanova

Tel. +39 0432 924 815, [email protected], www. palmanova.it. Criminally underrated and/or overlooked,  few p eople outsid e of the region have even heard of  Palmanova or confuse the Renaissance town with the much more widely known outlet shopping centre located nearby. In fact, we admittedly only ‘discovered’ Palmanova by accident one day while checking directions to a Radiohead concert at Vila Manin on Google Maps! Built by the Venetians at the very en d of the 16th century, both to commemorate a large European military victory over the Turks and to serve as a new easternmost  defensive garrison against any future incursions, the town consists of several concentric circular ring roads surrounded by a nine-sided defensive wall and moat with outer walls also in the form of a perfect nine-sided star. Roads radiate out towards one of the three gates from the large central square, on which sits a now slightly lopsided glistening white cathedral. In all the town covers an area of some 13.33 square kilometres, and is still home to some 5000 inhabitants. There may not be many classic sights to visit here, but  the town itself is one incredible large open-air museum, and there are several fine restaurants, cafés and shops to stop by during a day-trip here. The well-stocked tourist  information office just off the main square has maps and brochures highlighting several different walking paths in and around the town, as well as info about the wider  Friuli Venezia Giulia region. The whole town has been a protected national monument since 1960, and the road there is well-marked from the exit on the A4 motorway.

Trieste In

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What to see

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The museum’s collection of art includes both paintings and sculptures, primarily comprised of works from the second half of the 19th and early 20th centuries, as well as more recent works from artists from the Friuli Venezia Guila region and elsewhere in Italy. While you won’t find any of the art  world’s biggest names here, the diverse selection on display provides a fairly comprehensive overview of I talian art   from the pa st two cen turies, a nd offers plen ty of pric eles s works to feast your eyes on. Additionally, the building itself  is a stunning architectural specimen, and in the summer  months the top floor café and terrace stay open late from Thursday to Sunday. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission €6.50/4.50. Guided tours for up to 30 people  €55 by pre-a rrange ment.

Churches Basilica di San Giusto E-5, Piazza della Cattedrale 1. Sitting atop the same hill as the Castle of  San Guisto, the cathedral dedicated to the same patron Saint also offers spectacular views of the city and can be reached by Scala dei Giganti from Piazza Goldoni. The current structure with Karst stone joined two existing churches in the 14th Century. The styles are said to incorporate both Roman and Byzantine trademarks, and frescoes and mosaics, including the town’s patron St. Justus, adorn the interior as does a very impressive Virgin Mary with child and the Apostles. The beauti ful rose wind ow is unmi ssib le. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Admission free. Chiesa di San Spiridione E/F-3, Via San Spirodione 9. Located at the crossroads of Europe’s major ethnic and religious communities, it’s no surprise that Trieste Trieste has long  been a diverse and exceptionally tolerant city in terms of  culture and religion, a historical fact that can largely be traced back to Empress Maria Theresa’s decision to allow the free practise of religion in 1751. One of the most  tangible signs of this heritage is the magnificent Seribian orthodox church set just off the Grand Canal. Dedi cated to the Greek Cypriot Saint Spyridon - whose diverse patronage includes potters, the island of Corfu and the Tolstoy   family of Rus sia - the h ulkin g mul ti-dom ed s truc ture i s of  typical Byzantine st yle and dates back to 1869. Of special interest are the nine statues by Milanese artist Emilio Bisi adorning the front façade, and the large silver lamp hanging inside the main entrance, which was a gift from Russian Tsar Paul I.

Crowds gather to watch a spectacular sunset on Molo Audace, photo by Branka Jovanović

trieste inyourpo cket com

Synagogue San Francesco 19, tel. (+39) 40 37 14 66, Originally built  [email protected], [email protected], www.triestebraica.it.Originally at the beginning of the 20th, the Jewish house of worship in Trieste is one of the biggest and most important in Europe. It  is said to encompass a blend of architectural styles including  late Roman (as was seen in fourth Century Syria), and a tall dome is supported by four marble pillars. There’s also a rose window with star of David depiction. Having been unveiled in 1912, the church had a period of second world war closure, to be reopened immediately after.

Around Trieste Azienda Agricola Foffani Piazza Giulia 13, Clauiano, Trivignano Udinese, tel. +39 0432 999 584, fax +39 0432 999 800, [email protected], www.foffani.it. For an afternoon wine tasting or a relaxing stay in the Friulian countryside, you won’t find a more authentic or welcoming  destination than the Foffani estate. Located on the main square in the tiny village of Clauiano, the entirety of which is a protected cultural site, the property has been in the same  family sinc e the 16th cen tury and h as been producing win e since the late-18th century. Giovanni and Elisabetta are quite simply the perfect hosts, with Giovanni gladly discussing the technicali ties of his wine production durin g a tasting or a tour, tour, and Elisabetta enthusiastically regaling guests with stories  from the history of the family, the estate and the village. Above the rustic tasting room there’s a permanent art exhibition entitled I Colori del Vino, featuring various wine-related works including poetry, knitware, music and mosaics - the latter can also be seen in the form of two large sculptures by Maestro Giulio Candussio in the courtyard outside, representing white and red wine of course. Mosaics also find their way onto one of several lab els that the Foffani’s Foffani’s wine is hand-bot tled under, the most popular of which is the line of so-called Flower Wines that includes a white Merlot 

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Parco Naturale Prealpi Giulie Piazza del Tiglio 3, Prato Di Resia, tel. +39 0433 53534, www.parcoprealpigiulie.it.Travelling around Italy one is amazed by the cultural and historical richness of the country. Venture off the regular tourist path and you’ll also find some incredible natural wonders. FruiliVenezia Giulia is a melting pot o f cultures; just visit a bar  in the region where you’re likely hear Italian, Slovene and German spoken at the one table. The region is also a natural melting pot as the confluence of three distinct  biogeographic areas, Mediterranean, Illyrian and Alpine. If you want to experience this clash of cultures and landscapes then look no further than the Julian pre-alps nature park (Parco Naturale Prealpi Giulie). The nature reserve sits on the Slovene-Italian border  at the site of one of the First World War’s fiercest frontiers. Apart from its historical significance the park has stunning natural scenery and a rich biodiversity, with impressive forests, wildflowers and wildlife, all present though you’ll need luck to spot the elusive chamois. The park offers something for everyone, from easy walking  paths to challenging multi-day hikes with mountain hut  accommodation on-route. The area is also popular with mountain bikers and in winter brave souls can try snowshoeing (available to rent at the visitor centre). The visitors centres dotted around the park offer excellent information (only in Italy do park rangers give local restaurant advice) whilst in Resiutta on the park’s northern boundary, there is also an interesting Mining  Museum detailing the regions rich mining history. The villages around the park are also well worth checking out  with rich cultural histories and sights such as a handful of 12th to 14th-century churches and abbeys.

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What to see Museo Revoltella (Galleria d’Arte Moderna) Diaz 27, tel. +39 040 675 4350, fax +39 040 675 4137, [email protected], www.museorevoltella.it. Our favourite Italian museum east of Venice, the Revoltella owes its existence (and name) to the baron Pasquale Revoltella, who bequeathed his palace, art collection and other personal effects to the city upon his d eath in 1869. Born to a wealthy Venetian family, family, the baron did quite well  for himsel f in Tries Tries te, makin g a fortun e in the tim ber in dustry, and later serving as one of the driving forces behind the construction of the m odern Suez Canal. Several of the palace’s rooms, including the baron’s private residence, have been preserved with their original furnishings and make up part of the impressive collection. In 1907, the adjacent Brunner Palace was purchased by t he city, which allowed for museum to be greatly expanded, while further  renovations have brought the current exhibition space to more than 4000 square metres.

Palmanova

Tel. +39 0432 924 815, [email protected], www. palmanova.it. Criminally underrated and/or overlooked,  few p eople outsid e of the region have even heard of  Palmanova or confuse the Renaissance town with the much more widely known outlet shopping centre located nearby. In fact, we admittedly only ‘discovered’ Palmanova by accident one day while checking directions to a Radiohead concert at Vila Manin on Google Maps! Built by the Venetians at the very en d of the 16th century, both to commemorate a large European military victory over the Turks and to serve as a new easternmost  defensive garrison against any future incursions, the town consists of several concentric circular ring roads surrounded by a nine-sided defensive wall and moat with outer walls also in the form of a perfect nine-sided star. Roads radiate out towards one of the three gates from the large central square, on which sits a now slightly lopsided glistening white cathedral. In all the town covers an area of some 13.33 square kilometres, and is still home to some 5000 inhabitants. There may not be many classic sights to visit here, but  the town itself is one incredible large open-air museum, and there are several fine restaurants, cafés and shops to stop by during a day-trip here. The well-stocked tourist  information office just off the main square has maps and brochures highlighting several different walking paths in and around the town, as well as info about the wider  Friuli Venezia Giulia region. The whole town has been a protected national monument since 1960, and the road there is well-marked from the exit on the A4 motorway.

Trieste In

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What to see The museum’s collection of art includes both paintings and sculptures, primarily comprised of works from the second half of the 19th and early 20th centuries, as well as more recent works from artists from the Friuli Venezia Guila region and elsewhere in Italy. While you won’t find any of the art  world’s biggest names here, the diverse selection on display provides a fairly comprehensive overview of I talian art   from the pa st two cen turies, a nd offers plen ty of pric eles s works to feast your eyes on. Additionally, the building itself  is a stunning architectural specimen, and in the summer  months the top floor café and terrace stay open late from Thursday to Sunday. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission €6.50/4.50. Guided tours for up to 30 people  €55 by pre-a rrange ment.

Churches Basilica di San Giusto E-5, Piazza della Cattedrale 1. Sitting atop the same hill as the Castle of  San Guisto, the cathedral dedicated to the same patron Saint also offers spectacular views of the city and can be reached by Scala dei Giganti from Piazza Goldoni. The current structure with Karst stone joined two existing churches in the 14th Century. The styles are said to incorporate both Roman and Byzantine trademarks, and frescoes and mosaics, including the town’s patron St. Justus, adorn the interior as does a very impressive Virgin Mary with child and the Apostles. The beauti ful rose wind ow is unmi ssib le. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Admission free. Chiesa di San Spiridione E/F-3, Via San Spirodione 9. Located at the crossroads of Europe’s major ethnic and religious communities, it’s no surprise that Trieste Trieste has long  been a diverse and exceptionally tolerant city in terms of  culture and religion, a historical fact that can largely be traced back to Empress Maria Theresa’s decision to allow the free practise of religion in 1751. One of the most  tangible signs of this heritage is the magnificent Seribian orthodox church set just off the Grand Canal. Dedi cated to the Greek Cypriot Saint Spyridon - whose diverse patronage includes potters, the island of Corfu and the Tolstoy   family of Rus sia - the h ulkin g mul ti-dom ed s truc ture i s of  typical Byzantine st yle and dates back to 1869. Of special interest are the nine statues by Milanese artist Emilio Bisi adorning the front façade, and the large silver lamp hanging inside the main entrance, which was a gift from Russian Tsar Paul I.

Crowds gather to watch a spectacular sunset on Molo Audace, photo by Branka Jovanović

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Synagogue San Francesco 19, tel. (+39) 40 37 14 66, Originally built  [email protected], [email protected], www.triestebraica.it.Originally at the beginning of the 20th, the Jewish house of worship in Trieste is one of the biggest and most important in Europe. It  is said to encompass a blend of architectural styles including  late Roman (as was seen in fourth Century Syria), and a tall dome is supported by four marble pillars. There’s also a rose window with star of David depiction. Having been unveiled in 1912, the church had a period of second world war closure, to be reopened immediately after.

Around Trieste Azienda Agricola Foffani Piazza Giulia 13, Clauiano, Trivignano Udinese, tel. +39 0432 999 584, fax +39 0432 999 800, [email protected], www.foffani.it. For an afternoon wine tasting or a relaxing stay in the Friulian countryside, you won’t find a more authentic or welcoming  destination than the Foffani estate. Located on the main square in the tiny village of Clauiano, the entirety of which is a protected cultural site, the property has been in the same  family sinc e the 16th cen tury and h as been producing win e since the late-18th century. Giovanni and Elisabetta are quite simply the perfect hosts, with Giovanni gladly discussing the technicali ties of his wine production durin g a tasting or a tour, tour, and Elisabetta enthusiastically regaling guests with stories  from the history of the family, the estate and the village. Above the rustic tasting room there’s a permanent art exhibition entitled I Colori del Vino, featuring various wine-related works including poetry, knitware, music and mosaics - the latter can also be seen in the form of two large sculptures by Maestro Giulio Candussio in the courtyard outside, representing white and red wine of course. Mosaics also find their way onto one of several lab els that the Foffani’s Foffani’s wine is hand-bot tled under, the most popular of which is the line of so-called Flower Wines that includes a white Merlot 

Parco Naturale Prealpi Giulie Piazza del Tiglio 3, Prato Di Resia, tel. +39 0433 53534, www.parcoprealpigiulie.it.Travelling around Italy one is amazed by the cultural and historical richness of the country. Venture off the regular tourist path and you’ll also find some incredible natural wonders. FruiliVenezia Giulia is a melting pot o f cultures; just visit a bar  in the region where you’re likely hear Italian, Slovene and German spoken at the one table. The region is also a natural melting pot as the confluence of three distinct  biogeographic areas, Mediterranean, Illyrian and Alpine. If you want to experience this clash of cultures and landscapes then look no further than the Julian pre-alps nature park (Parco Naturale Prealpi Giulie). The nature reserve sits on the Slovene-Italian border  at the site of one of the First World War’s fiercest frontiers. Apart from its historical significance the park has stunning natural scenery and a rich biodiversity, with impressive forests, wildflowers and wildlife, all present though you’ll need luck to spot the elusive chamois. The park offers something for everyone, from easy walking  paths to challenging multi-day hikes with mountain hut  accommodation on-route. The area is also popular with mountain bikers and in winter brave souls can try snowshoeing (available to rent at the visitor centre). The visitors centres dotted around the park offer excellent information (only in Italy do park rangers give local restaurant advice) whilst in Resiutta on the park’s northern boundary, there is also an interesting Mining  Museum detailing the regions rich mining history. The villages around the park are also well worth checking out  with rich cultural histories and sights such as a handful of 12th to 14th-century churches and abbeys.

2013

trieste.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

What to see and a sweet Muscat rosé, both of which are exported around the world. As is common practice when visiting wine producers, if you come here for a tasting you’ll be encouraged to try a bit  of everything, in which case spending the night in the family’s bed and breakfast is a good option. Two charming rooms are available for overnight stays, both offering an authenti c farmhouse experience (creaky wooden floors, period furniture) with modern en suite bathrooms and a kitchen downstairs. Even  for those not enamoured by the excellen t wine, the estate is perfectly si tuated for exploring the surrounding countryside by  car or bike during longer stays, with th e Dolomites, Trieste and even Venice all easy day trips from here.

Grotta Gigante Borgo Grotta Gigante 42a, tel. +39 040 327 312, [email protected], [email protected], w ww.grottagigante.it. ww.grottagigante.it. Found just outside Villa Opicina in th e hills above Trieste, Grotta Gigante (or literally Giant Cave) may not have the m ost original name, but when you’re widely considered to be the largest tourist cave in the entire world - including b y the reputable folks at  the Guinness Book - you don’t really need one. First explored in 1840 and was opened to the public in 1908, however, however, it only  became a top tourist destination after electricity was finally  installed in 1957. The cave consists almost entirely of one immense chamber, which measures an mind-boggling 168m long, 76m wide and nearly 100m high. Guided tours last just  under one hour, and also include admission to the newly built  museum and education centre above ground.Q Guided tours depart every hour from 10:00-16:00 from Oct to March, and 10:00-18:00 from April to Sept. Closed 1 Jan, 25 De c, and on Monday except in July and Aug. Admission €11 for adults, €9 students/pensioners and €8 for kids aged 6-16.

Parovel Zona Artigianale Dolina 546, San Dorligo della Valle, tel. +39 346 759 0953, www.parovel.com. The Parovel family has been producing high quality wine, olive oil and other agricultural products at the foothills of the majestic Val Rosandra Rosandra nature reserve since the sec ond half of the 19th century - long enough to witness the strong winds of history  sweeping through the territory on more than a few occasions. Literal winds also routinely leave their mark on the land, resulting in a rich clay soil that combined with the Mediterranean climate creates the perfect environment for wine and olive  farming. Since the 1970s ne wer gen erations of th e famil y  have undertaken the mo dernisation and expansion of the homestead, which is currently overseen by siblings Elena and Euro. In 2006 a beautiful new cantina was opened that  can accommodate groups of visitors both large and small for  wine tastings, guided tours, degustation menus and full meals. Various other special events are also arranged throughout the year, including the twice-yearly Osmizza culinary feast known, which is always one of personal favourites.

Risiera di San Sabba Ratto della Pileria 43, tel. +39 040 82 62 02, risierasansabba@com [email protected]. une.trieste.it.Originally built in 1913 as a rice huskin g facility, this large red brick  structure was transformed by fascists in the se cond world war  into a concentration camp. The Nazis supposedly executed thousands here (although reported actual numbers vary), and shipped many more off to Auschwitz. At the end of the war and it was closed by Yugoslav partisans liberating the city, and then served as a refugee camp for Italians fleein g Yugoslavia. The museum there now is reachable by takin g bus 8 from the main train station. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Duino Castle

Not much has changed at the drugstore opened by Vittorio Toso back in 1906

Castello di Duino Duino Aurisina, tel. +39 040 208 120, fax +39 040 20 71 398, info@castellodiduino. it, castellodiduino.it. Perhaps not as well-known as the glistening white Castello di Miramare, the imposing  Duino Castle a bit further  up the coast is every bit as impressive. Constructed at  the beginning of the 1300s on a rocky bluff overlooking  the sea, over the centuries the site acquired a reputation as a centre of culture, counting among its guests numerous notable figures  from the Hab sbu rg empi re Listz, Strauss, Archduke Franz  Ferdinand and the poet Rainer  Maria Rilke, who composed two of his most famous works while staying here. At the end of the 19th century, the castle became the property of the Czech bran ch of the House of Thurn and Taxis, and today is still officially the private residence of the Princes della Torre e Tasso. However, much to the delight of those of use who are not members of  European nobility (and tourists in general), the castle was opened to the public in 2003. On guided tours it’s possible to visit some two dozen historically important rooms, as well as an eerie WWII

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Fashion Bora Nera F-4, Corso Italia 20/D, tel. +39 040 635 467, [email protected], www.boranera.it. An inherently  Triestine fashion brand, Bora Nera (or black wind) was created by former professional basketball player Fabrizio Zarotti as an homage to his greatest passions: travel, adventure, sports and the sea in all its forms. Its distinctive logo is take directly from the famed Molo Audace

Markets

bunker built by the Germans and the sprawling castle park that winds along the cliffs on several different levels and boasts more than 21,000 flowers. Weddings, conferences, exhibitions and gala dinners can also be arranged, while the castle hosts concerts, theatrical performances and other cultural events from time to time. Q Open Wed-Mon 09:30-17:30 (Apr-Sept), 9:30-16:00 (Mar & Oct). Close d Tuesday. Tuesday. In winter open only at weekends 09:30-16:00. 09:30-16:00. Admission €8, €5/7  (groups), €3.50/5.00 (discount), free for children six and under.

trieste inyourpo cket com

Mercato Coperto G-4, Carducci 36, tel. +39 040 762 919. With its curving Art Moderne style  façad e an d exc ess o f win dows, Trieste’s Marke t Hal l stands out from its immediate neighbours, as well as almost every other building in the city. Built in 1936 by a rich local merchant in order to provide shelter for  small vendors from the cold bitter winds that often sweep through the region, the building itself and its occupants remain little changed to this day. The ground  floor featu res a va ried assor tmen t of stall s ha wkin g   fresh (mostl y o rgani c) f ruit and veget able , m eat and  fish, spice s a nd flowe rs, and some typi cal Triestin e culinary specialties, such as succulent ham baked inside bread. On upper floor there’s a dizzying selection of products from clothes and shoes to souvenirs and collectible items (antiques, paintings, books, vinyl records), with the whole place being a bit reminiscent of  the flea markets of Paris and Amsterdam, or a smaller  version of the Great Market Hall in Budapest. Q Open 08:00-17:00, Mon08:00-14:00. Closed Sun.

trieste.inyourpocket.com

monument located on the city’s waterfront promenade, which commemorates Trieste’s return to Italy following  WWI - which is fitting as the clothes themselve s are made in Italy using the highest quality materials. Items for both men and women are distinguished by refined details and  fashiona ble cu ts. The Bora N era shop in Trieste is lo cate d in the city’s main shopping district.

Marina Rinaldi F-4, Corso Italia 11/B, tel. +39 040 348 0566, www.marinarinaldi.com. Launched within the Max Mara Fashion Group over three decades ago, the Marina Rinaldi brand is dedicated to producing high quality   fashionable garments and accessori es for plus-sized women. Named after the founder’s grandmot her, who herself owned a dressmakers shop in back in the mid-19th century, the brand was one of the first in the world to bring the latest fashion trends to women who don’t resemble the models on the runways of Milan and Paris. In Trieste Marina Rinaldi’s shop can be found in the city’s de facto shopping district, not far   from Max Mara. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sun 11:00 - 13:00, 15:30-19:30.

Max Mara F-4, Corso Itali a 20/1, tel. +39 040 636 723, www.maxmara.com.Founded in 1951 by Achille Maramotti, who’s family had been involved in luxury fashion for generations, Max Mara was one of the first Italian fashion hous es to establish the model of producing high quality manufactured clothing, following lowing the lead of haute couture collections, but  maintaining more affordable prices. The rest, as they say, is history, and today Max Mara has grown into one of the world’s leading high fashion retailers, with of course a proliferation of  shops the country of its birth, Italy, including a large elegant  boutique on Corso Italia in Trieste. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. 2013

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What to see and a sweet Muscat rosé, both of which are exported around the world. As is common practice when visiting wine producers, if you come here for a tasting you’ll be encouraged to try a bit  of everything, in which case spending the night in the family’s bed and breakfast is a good option. Two charming rooms are available for overnight stays, both offering an authenti c farmhouse experience (creaky wooden floors, period furniture) with modern en suite bathrooms and a kitchen downstairs. Even  for those not enamoured by the excellen t wine, the estate is perfectly si tuated for exploring the surrounding countryside by  car or bike during longer stays, with th e Dolomites, Trieste and even Venice all easy day trips from here.

Grotta Gigante Borgo Grotta Gigante 42a, tel. +39 040 327 312, [email protected], [email protected], w ww.grottagigante.it. ww.grottagigante.it. Found just outside Villa Opicina in th e hills above Trieste, Grotta Gigante (or literally Giant Cave) may not have the m ost original name, but when you’re widely considered to be the largest tourist cave in the entire world - including b y the reputable folks at  the Guinness Book - you don’t really need one. First explored in 1840 and was opened to the public in 1908, however, however, it only  became a top tourist destination after electricity was finally  installed in 1957. The cave consists almost entirely of one immense chamber, which measures an mind-boggling 168m long, 76m wide and nearly 100m high. Guided tours last just  under one hour, and also include admission to the newly built  museum and education centre above ground.Q Guided tours depart every hour from 10:00-16:00 from Oct to March, and 10:00-18:00 from April to Sept. Closed 1 Jan, 25 De c, and on Monday except in July and Aug. Admission €11 for adults, €9 students/pensioners and €8 for kids aged 6-16.

Parovel Zona Artigianale Dolina 546, San Dorligo della Valle, tel. +39 346 759 0953, www.parovel.com. The Parovel family has been producing high quality wine, olive oil and other agricultural products at the foothills of the majestic Val Rosandra Rosandra nature reserve since the sec ond half of the 19th century - long enough to witness the strong winds of history  sweeping through the territory on more than a few occasions. Literal winds also routinely leave their mark on the land, resulting in a rich clay soil that combined with the Mediterranean climate creates the perfect environment for wine and olive  farming. Since the 1970s ne wer gen erations of th e famil y  have undertaken the mo dernisation and expansion of the homestead, which is currently overseen by siblings Elena and Euro. In 2006 a beautiful new cantina was opened that  can accommodate groups of visitors both large and small for  wine tastings, guided tours, degustation menus and full meals. Various other special events are also arranged throughout the year, including the twice-yearly Osmizza culinary feast known, which is always one of personal favourites.

Risiera di San Sabba Ratto della Pileria 43, tel. +39 040 82 62 02, risierasansabba@com [email protected]. une.trieste.it.Originally built in 1913 as a rice huskin g facility, this large red brick  structure was transformed by fascists in the se cond world war  into a concentration camp. The Nazis supposedly executed thousands here (although reported actual numbers vary), and shipped many more off to Auschwitz. At the end of the war and it was closed by Yugoslav partisans liberating the city, and then served as a refugee camp for Italians fleein g Yugoslavia. The museum there now is reachable by takin g bus 8 from the main train station. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Duino Castle

Not much has changed at the drugstore opened by Vittorio Toso back in 1906

Castello di Duino Duino Aurisina, tel. +39 040 208 120, fax +39 040 20 71 398, info@castellodiduino. it, castellodiduino.it. Perhaps not as well-known as the glistening white Castello di Miramare, the imposing  Duino Castle a bit further  up the coast is every bit as impressive. Constructed at  the beginning of the 1300s on a rocky bluff overlooking  the sea, over the centuries the site acquired a reputation as a centre of culture, counting among its guests numerous notable figures  from the Hab sbu rg empi re Listz, Strauss, Archduke Franz  Ferdinand and the poet Rainer  Maria Rilke, who composed two of his most famous works while staying here. At the end of the 19th century, the castle became the property of the Czech bran ch of the House of Thurn and Taxis, and today is still officially the private residence of the Princes della Torre e Tasso. However, much to the delight of those of use who are not members of  European nobility (and tourists in general), the castle was opened to the public in 2003. On guided tours it’s possible to visit some two dozen historically important rooms, as well as an eerie WWII

Trieste In

36

Fashion Bora Nera F-4, Corso Italia 20/D, tel. +39 040 635 467, [email protected], www.boranera.it. An inherently  Triestine fashion brand, Bora Nera (or black wind) was created by former professional basketball player Fabrizio Zarotti as an homage to his greatest passions: travel, adventure, sports and the sea in all its forms. Its distinctive logo is take directly from the famed Molo Audace

Markets

bunker built by the Germans and the sprawling castle park that winds along the cliffs on several different levels and boasts more than 21,000 flowers. Weddings, conferences, exhibitions and gala dinners can also be arranged, while the castle hosts concerts, theatrical performances and other cultural events from time to time. Q Open Wed-Mon 09:30-17:30 (Apr-Sept), 9:30-16:00 (Mar & Oct). Close d Tuesday. Tuesday. In winter open only at weekends 09:30-16:00. 09:30-16:00. Admission €8, €5/7  (groups), €3.50/5.00 (discount), free for children six and under.

Your Po cket

trieste.inyourpo cket.com

Shopping Stranomavero D-5, Via Felice Venezian 7b, tel. +39

to exist in the 21st century. However, somewhat reassuringly  many of the customers are from the younger generations, as natural products stocked here have once again come back  in fashion, and will hopefully ensure that the legendary Toso continues on for another hundred years. Q Open 08:0013:00, 16:30-19:00, Mon & Wed 16:30-19:00. Closed Sun.

040 302334, www.stranomavero.biz. Started several years ago as small open-air stand selling the jewellery of  local designer Antonella Caprioli, the unique handmade items quickly proved popular with customers, necessitating the m ove to this large shop in Trieste’s trendy Cavana neighbourhood. In ad dition to jewellery, which is still made by Ms Caprioli in a small workshop onsite, Stranomavero offers a range of fashion from up-and-coming young de signers from across Italy and elsewhere in Europe. Most of the labels may not yet be household names, bu t all have been carefully selected for the unique styles they produce, and the super friendly staff will be glad to give m ore info about  each of them. A second smaller shop is located across the street, and functions both as an discount outlet and seasonal showroom. Q Open 09:30-13:00, 15:30-19:30, Wed 09:30-19:30. Closed Sun-Mon.

chocolate is a direct reflection of founder and chocolate artisan Guiseppe Faggiotto’s passion for creating the world’s best sweets. Beginning with carefully selecte d raw ingredients, his so-called chocolate laborator y in the town of Pordenone produces an astounding variety of chocolate bars, pralines, sculptures, novelty figures and delightful treats whose only limit is the imagination. In Trieste you can find Peratoner prominently displayed in many of its  forms at the famed Caffe dei Specchi on Piazza Unità d’Italia.

Gifts & Sou veni venirs rs

Jewellery & Watches

Drogheria Vittorio Toso F-4, Piazza San Giovanni 6,

Crevatin D-4, Via di Cavana 7a, tel. +39 040 304 316. Originally opened as a watchmakers shop in 1947, the still  family-r un Gioiel leria Cre vatin has b een in i ts presen t location on Piazza Cavana for nearly fift y years. Specialising in  jewell ery, gif ts and tra diti onal hom e good s made pri marily   from gold a nd sil ver wit h preci ous or se mi-prec ious gem s, Crevatin stocks items exclusively made in Italy and favours small carefully selected producers that are able to combine traditional methods and quality with modern design. The now 80-something, but still still lively, senior Mr Crevatin can still be found fixing watches at another shop nearby, when he’s not home taking care of his garden. QOpen 08:30 - 12:00, 16:00-19:30. Closed Mon, Sun.

tel. +39 040 63 62 88. Virtually nothing has changed in this traditional drugstore since it first opened on Piazza San Giovanni in 1906 - the weather-beaten façade, the natural sea sponges hanging from the ceiling, and the aromatic mix of  spices, soaps and other scents that overwhelms you upon entering all hail from a very different era that has almost ceas ed

Palmanova Outlet Village Strada Provinciale 126, Km1.6 - Joannis-Aiello del Friuli, tel. +39 0432 837 810, fax +39 0432 837 811, [email protected], www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Situated between Venice, Trieste and Udine, the Palmanova Outlet Village not only attracts shoppers from across Friuli Venezia Giulia and elsewhere in northern Italy, but also from the neighbouring countries of Austria, Slovenia and Croatia, as well as from the millions of tourists who visit the region each year. More than 90 name-brand stores offer  shoppers discounts of between 30-70% on regular  retail prices, and even higher discounts during special sales periods. What’s more, those from outside the E U can easily take advantage of tax free shopping, adding  even further savings to their purchases. Built to resemble the narrow winding streets of Venice and lined with colour ful Venetian-style façades, tourists should spend one day visiting the original Most Serene Republic for its sights, but then come to Palmanova to do their shopping, as the many advantages include  free park ing, more elb ow room , bet ter ser vic e and much lower prices. The outlet village is also especially   famil y fri endl y, with lots o f ac tivit ies f or ch ildr en su ch as a full playground and tours on a mini-train, while other conveniences for families include free stroller  rentals and a nursery. During the spring and summer  months concerts, performances and other open-air  events also take place in the main square, and there is always a wide selection of restaurants, cafés and bars to choose from. For more information about Palmanova Outlet Village you can visit the official website, or stop by the friendl y  Info Point when you arrive. Located just off the motorway near the star-shaped medieval fortress town of  the same name, the shopping centre is open seven days a week and the route is well-marked. During the high season, a free shuttle also operates be tween the resort town of Grado. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

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Peratoner D-4, www.peratoner.it. Legendary Peratoner 

Rolli Poniz G-4, Corso Umberto Saba 31, tel. +39 040 368 901, ww w.rolliponiz.it. w.rolliponiz.it. Just around the corner   from the atmo spheri c Merca to shoppin g cen tre, at the convergence of two of the city’s main streets, sits Rolli Poniz, a jewellery and watch shop that carries some of the world’s best brands of timepieces. The kindly proprietors also create their own original jewellery if you’re in the market   for a uniqu e gi ft, and also offer repa ir, refurb ishme nt and quick battery changes if you find yourself in need of such service whilst in Trieste. If you have a Citizen watch, they  are the official service centre for the F VG region. Q Open 08:30-12:30, 15:30-19:30 Tues-Sat. Tues-Sat. Closed Sun-Mon.

Newsagents Edicola Piazza Goldoni F-4, Piazza Goldoni 9. If you find yourself without a ticket for the local buses or without enough mobile credit to make a phone call, hop over to this newsagents stand on bustling Piazza Goldini (just in front of the Croatian consulate). They also stock a selection of foreign newspapers and magazines, batteries and other odds and ends.

Vintage & Second Hand Katastrofa D-4, Via Diaz 4, tel. +39 338 227 2351, [email protected]’ve seen a lot of vintage shops, second hand stores, art galleries, antique markets and furniture workshops all around the world, but we’ve never seen anything quite like Katastrofa, whose passionate owners combine elements of all of the above into one unique venue that is definitely worth popping into for a l ook even if  you’re not in the market for an original Bauhaus wardrobe, a pair of designer Italian high heels from the 1950s, an original Polaroid camera, a 19th-century French biscuit tin or any of the other incredible items that happen to currently be on display  here. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00-20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

trieste inyourpo cket com

Mercato Coperto G-4, Carducci 36, tel. +39 040 762 919. With its curving Art Moderne style  façad e an d exc ess o f win dows, Trieste’s Marke t Hal l stands out from its immediate neighbours, as well as almost every other building in the city. Built in 1936 by a rich local merchant in order to provide shelter for  small vendors from the cold bitter winds that often sweep through the region, the building itself and its occupants remain little changed to this day. The ground  floor featu res a va ried assor tmen t of stall s ha wkin g   fresh (mostl y o rgani c) f ruit and veget able , m eat and  fish, spice s a nd flowe rs, and some typi cal Triestin e culinary specialties, such as succulent ham baked inside bread. On upper floor there’s a dizzying selection of products from clothes and shoes to souvenirs and collectible items (antiques, paintings, books, vinyl records), with the whole place being a bit reminiscent of  the flea markets of Paris and Amsterdam, or a smaller  version of the Great Market Hall in Budapest. Q Open 08:00-17:00, Mon08:00-14:00. Closed Sun.

trieste.inyourpocket.com

monument located on the city’s waterfront promenade, which commemorates Trieste’s return to Italy following  WWI - which is fitting as the clothes themselve s are made in Italy using the highest quality materials. Items for both men and women are distinguished by refined details and  fashiona ble cu ts. The Bora N era shop in Trieste is lo cate d in the city’s main shopping district.

Marina Rinaldi F-4, Corso Italia 11/B, tel. +39 040 348 0566, www.marinarinaldi.com. Launched within the Max Mara Fashion Group over three decades ago, the Marina Rinaldi brand is dedicated to producing high quality   fashionable garments and accessori es for plus-sized women. Named after the founder’s grandmot her, who herself owned a dressmakers shop in back in the mid-19th century, the brand was one of the first in the world to bring the latest fashion trends to women who don’t resemble the models on the runways of Milan and Paris. In Trieste Marina Rinaldi’s shop can be found in the city’s de facto shopping district, not far   from Max Mara. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sun 11:00 - 13:00, 15:30-19:30.

Max Mara F-4, Corso Itali a 20/1, tel. +39 040 636 723, www.maxmara.com.Founded in 1951 by Achille Maramotti, who’s family had been involved in luxury fashion for generations, Max Mara was one of the first Italian fashion hous es to establish the model of producing high quality manufactured clothing, following lowing the lead of haute couture collections, but  maintaining more affordable prices. The rest, as they say, is history, and today Max Mara has grown into one of the world’s leading high fashion retailers, with of course a proliferation of  shops the country of its birth, Italy, including a large elegant  boutique on Corso Italia in Trieste. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. 2013

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Shopping Stranomavero D-5, Via Felice Venezian 7b, tel. +39

to exist in the 21st century. However, somewhat reassuringly  many of the customers are from the younger generations, as natural products stocked here have once again come back  in fashion, and will hopefully ensure that the legendary Toso continues on for another hundred years. Q Open 08:0013:00, 16:30-19:00, Mon & Wed 16:30-19:00. Closed Sun.

040 302334, www.stranomavero.biz. Started several years ago as small open-air stand selling the jewellery of  local designer Antonella Caprioli, the unique handmade items quickly proved popular with customers, necessitating the m ove to this large shop in Trieste’s trendy Cavana neighbourhood. In ad dition to jewellery, which is still made by Ms Caprioli in a small workshop onsite, Stranomavero offers a range of fashion from up-and-coming young de signers from across Italy and elsewhere in Europe. Most of the labels may not yet be household names, bu t all have been carefully selected for the unique styles they produce, and the super friendly staff will be glad to give m ore info about  each of them. A second smaller shop is located across the street, and functions both as an discount outlet and seasonal showroom. Q Open 09:30-13:00, 15:30-19:30, Wed 09:30-19:30. Closed Sun-Mon.

chocolate is a direct reflection of founder and chocolate artisan Guiseppe Faggiotto’s passion for creating the world’s best sweets. Beginning with carefully selecte d raw ingredients, his so-called chocolate laborator y in the town of Pordenone produces an astounding variety of chocolate bars, pralines, sculptures, novelty figures and delightful treats whose only limit is the imagination. In Trieste you can find Peratoner prominently displayed in many of its  forms at the famed Caffe dei Specchi on Piazza Unità d’Italia.

Gifts & Sou veni venirs rs

Jewellery & Watches

Drogheria Vittorio Toso F-4, Piazza San Giovanni 6,

Crevatin D-4, Via di Cavana 7a, tel. +39 040 304 316. Originally opened as a watchmakers shop in 1947, the still  family-r un Gioiel leria Cre vatin has b een in i ts presen t location on Piazza Cavana for nearly fift y years. Specialising in  jewell ery, gif ts and tra diti onal hom e good s made pri marily   from gold a nd sil ver wit h preci ous or se mi-prec ious gem s, Crevatin stocks items exclusively made in Italy and favours small carefully selected producers that are able to combine traditional methods and quality with modern design. The now 80-something, but still still lively, senior Mr Crevatin can still be found fixing watches at another shop nearby, when he’s not home taking care of his garden. QOpen 08:30 - 12:00, 16:00-19:30. Closed Mon, Sun.

tel. +39 040 63 62 88. Virtually nothing has changed in this traditional drugstore since it first opened on Piazza San Giovanni in 1906 - the weather-beaten façade, the natural sea sponges hanging from the ceiling, and the aromatic mix of  spices, soaps and other scents that overwhelms you upon entering all hail from a very different era that has almost ceas ed

Palmanova Outlet Village Strada Provinciale 126, Km1.6 - Joannis-Aiello del Friuli, tel. +39 0432 837 810, fax +39 0432 837 811, [email protected], www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Situated between Venice, Trieste and Udine, the Palmanova Outlet Village not only attracts shoppers from across Friuli Venezia Giulia and elsewhere in northern Italy, but also from the neighbouring countries of Austria, Slovenia and Croatia, as well as from the millions of tourists who visit the region each year. More than 90 name-brand stores offer  shoppers discounts of between 30-70% on regular  retail prices, and even higher discounts during special sales periods. What’s more, those from outside the E U can easily take advantage of tax free shopping, adding  even further savings to their purchases. Built to resemble the narrow winding streets of Venice and lined with colour ful Venetian-style façades, tourists should spend one day visiting the original Most Serene Republic for its sights, but then come to Palmanova to do their shopping, as the many advantages include  free park ing, more elb ow room , bet ter ser vic e and much lower prices. The outlet village is also especially   famil y fri endl y, with lots o f ac tivit ies f or ch ildr en su ch as a full playground and tours on a mini-train, while other conveniences for families include free stroller  rentals and a nursery. During the spring and summer  months concerts, performances and other open-air  events also take place in the main square, and there is always a wide selection of restaurants, cafés and bars to choose from. For more information about Palmanova Outlet Village you can visit the official website, or stop by the friendl y  Info Point when you arrive. Located just off the motorway near the star-shaped medieval fortress town of  the same name, the shopping centre is open seven days a week and the route is well-marked. During the high season, a free shuttle also operates be tween the resort town of Grado. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Trieste In

Your Po cket

Peratoner D-4, www.peratoner.it. Legendary Peratoner 

Rolli Poniz G-4, Corso Umberto Saba 31, tel. +39 040 368 901, ww w.rolliponiz.it. w.rolliponiz.it. Just around the corner   from the atmo spheri c Merca to shoppin g cen tre, at the convergence of two of the city’s main streets, sits Rolli Poniz, a jewellery and watch shop that carries some of the world’s best brands of timepieces. The kindly proprietors also create their own original jewellery if you’re in the market   for a uniqu e gi ft, and also offer repa ir, refurb ishme nt and quick battery changes if you find yourself in need of such service whilst in Trieste. If you have a Citizen watch, they  are the official service centre for the F VG region. Q Open 08:30-12:30, 15:30-19:30 Tues-Sat. Tues-Sat. Closed Sun-Mon.

Newsagents Edicola Piazza Goldoni F-4, Piazza Goldoni 9. If you find yourself without a ticket for the local buses or without enough mobile credit to make a phone call, hop over to this newsagents stand on bustling Piazza Goldini (just in front of the Croatian consulate). They also stock a selection of foreign newspapers and magazines, batteries and other odds and ends.

Vintage & Second Hand Katastrofa D-4, Via Diaz 4, tel. +39 338 227 2351, [email protected]’ve seen a lot of vintage shops, second hand stores, art galleries, antique markets and furniture workshops all around the world, but we’ve never seen anything quite like Katastrofa, whose passionate owners combine elements of all of the above into one unique venue that is definitely worth popping into for a l ook even if  you’re not in the market for an original Bauhaus wardrobe, a pair of designer Italian high heels from the 1950s, an original Polaroid camera, a 19th-century French biscuit tin or any of the other incredible items that happen to currently be on display  here. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00-20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

trieste.inyourpo cket.com

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy Online

LIPICA, THE CRADLE OF THE LIPIZZANER The Lipica Stud Farm is one o the most beautiul cultural-historical monuments in Slovenia. A tradition o over 400 years can be ound in the rich ofer o  various unorgettable experiance. Guided tours. Discovered secrets.

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ake a walk around the estate o the stud arm in the company o a riendly  guide, who will lead you to the world o Lipizzaners. You will discover everything you ever wanted to know about Lipizzaner horses and Lipica in the museum Lipikum. Every day! Performance and training of Classical Riding School. Astonishing.

Te Classical Riding School is the pride and succes o the Lipica Stud Farm. Select stallions will delight you with their elegant walk, turns and other surprising elements. ake a look at the training o the Classical Riding School, every  morning except Monday. Carriage ride. Unforgettable.

Enjoy in a unique experiance. ake a tour o the estate o the Lipica Stud Farm with a carriage and enjoy beautiul moments. An experiance you are sure not to orget. Excellent Mediterranean cuisine

Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides slovenia.inyourpocket.com

Te restaurant will entice you with the tempting scent o home-made Karst culinary delights which go well with superior wine. Apart rom the À la carte menu, the restaurant also boasts an excellent ofer o daily menus.

Lipica 5, SI-6210 Sežana, Slovenija : +386 (0)5 739 1580 E: in[email protected]

Just 15 minutes away rom Trieste.

www.lipica.org

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy Online

LIPICA, THE CRADLE OF THE LIPIZZANER The Lipica Stud Farm is one o the most beautiul cultural-historical monuments in Slovenia. A tradition o over 400 years can be ound in the rich ofer o  various unorgettable experiance. Guided tours. Discovered secrets.

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ake a walk around the estate o the stud arm in the company o a riendly  guide, who will lead you to the world o Lipizzaners. You will discover everything you ever wanted to know about Lipizzaner horses and Lipica in the museum Lipikum. Every day! Performance and training of Classical Riding School. Astonishing.

Te Classical Riding School is the pride and succes o the Lipica Stud Farm. Select stallions will delight you with their elegant walk, turns and other surprising elements. ake a look at the training o the Classical Riding School, every  morning except Monday. Carriage ride. Unforgettable.

Enjoy in a unique experiance. ake a tour o the estate o the Lipica Stud Farm with a carriage and enjoy beautiul moments. An experiance you are sure not to orget. Excellent Mediterranean cuisine

Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides slovenia.inyourpocket.com

Te restaurant will entice you with the tempting scent o home-made Karst culinary delights which go well with superior wine. Apart rom the À la carte menu, the restaurant also boasts an excellent ofer o daily menus.

Lipica 5, SI-6210 Sežana, Slovenija : +386 (0)5 739 1580 E: in[email protected]

Just 15 minutes away rom Trieste.

www.lipica.org