Travel - Rio de Janiero
June 3, 2016 | Author: Barry Pollack | Category: N/A
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Barry Pollack’s “Going Places” Rio de Janeiro, Brazil After
driving
from
seashore
to
a
lush
forested
mountaintop, I trekked a little further uphill to where a clearing led to a cliff. Apprehensively, I looked out over it at grand vistas of a great city below with miles upon miles of white sand beaches, a turquoise sea, and rows of beachfront high-rise apartments. My instructor strapped me into a body harness and hooked me up to his hang glider. He watched the wind rustle in the trees. My heart pounded with adrenalin. When the wind was just right, he counted, “one, two, three.” And then, together, we ran, and in just a few steps the earth below our feet was gone. We hung together under what seemed a flimsy nylon wing. But it flew and I was still alive. Alive and breathlessly gazing out at the sights below. And so began my adventure in and over the city of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Brazil is a nation of about 180 million. It is larger than
the
continental
United
States
and
its
size
and
population dwarf the rest of the nations in South America. It is the only nation in the Americas to speak Portuguese. Brasilia is its capital. The Amazon is its heart. Sao Paulo is
its
largest
city
and
business
center.
And
Rio
de
Janeiro, a city of 10 million inhabitants known as carioca, is the soul of the country, representing its joie de vivre. But while Rio can seem like paradise, it is also paradise lost. The city is visually seductive, set in one of the most beautiful locales in the world, between dramatic peaks and forests and expansive beaches along the Atlantic Ocean. But there is great disparity between the wealthy, who live in grand beachfront high-rises, and the poor, who live in a
scattering
of
hillside
shanty
towns.
Because
of
that
economic disparity, most every home and apartment in Rio is fenced. Many have prominent security guards. And while the city looks glorious from on high, from ground level, the metropolis clearly needs a serious overhaul - from paint to plaster, to a massive clean up of graffiti run amuck. While there are many deluxe hotels closer to Rio’s famous beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana, we stayed at the Sheraton Rio Hotel and Towers (800-325-3535), just on the outskirts
of
picturesque private
the
city’s
cove,
beach.
main
beaches.
Tucked
into
a
it’s the only Rio hotel with its own
The
Sheraton
is
a
modern
twenty-story
building with 559 guest rooms, all with superb ocean views. Our room was comfortable with a marbled bath, and a balcony with a vista of the arch of Ipanema Beach. The hotel has an expansive but cozy lobby, an exercise room, saunas, tennis courts, three pools overlooking the pounding surf, and an easy access stairwell down to the beach below. Published standard rates run from $167/night including tax but real costs are more difficult to decipher since most travelers stay
as
part
of
packages
that
include
sightseeing
and
excursions. To
see
the
sights
of
the
city,
yellow
taxis
are
plentiful and easy to hail. But while they’re metered, be sure you demand that the driver throw the meter as opposed to
giving
you
some
inflated
fixed
price
to
your
destination. Most drivers do not speak English so it’s best to have your hotel write down your destination before you depart.
There
are
all
sorts
of
tours
to
the
city’s
attractions – bus tours, semi-private van tours, and tours by private car. If you choose a private tour, which for two or more people can be more convenient and less expensive
than a bus tour, make sure that your driver is a “licensed and
trained”
tour
guide
and
not
some
glorified,
semi-
English speaking taxi-driver. I was disappointed that the Sheraton didn’t enforce that policy on the car tour service it provides in its lobby. If you’re taking a tour, you want to learn about the destination and not simply be taken to it. Plan to spend at least a day walking the great beaches of Rio and soaking up the life of the carioca. While there were
plenty
distinctive
of
natives
black
and
and
tourists
white
swirl
traipsing
mosaic
the
beachfront
pathways, sadly, there were not the throngs of thongs that I expected to see. There were more men in speedos than women in bikinis. There are refreshment stands every few hundred feet along the beach where you can stop and sip from
a
cold
coconut
or
have
a
beer.
Artisans
and
sand
sculptors display their handiwork along the sidewalks. And most interesting are the myriad of beach volleyball games played soccer style. At the point separating Ipanema from Copacabana Beach is Copacabana Fort. It was built in the era of World War I with a massive concrete bunker and great gun turrets facing out to the sea. There’s also a museum of Brazilian history here. This tiny peninsula is a wonderful place to relax and stop for lunch with great views of Copacabana Beach and Sugarloaf Mountain. No trip to Rio is complete without experiencing the panoramas from its famous mountaintops. Corcovado is the site of Cristo Redentor or Christ the Redeemer, the famous 700-ton concrete icon that seemingly embraces the city with its
arms.
It
can
be
reached
by
a
cogwheel
train
or
a
winding road by car. The city’s other mountaintop highlight
is the Pao de Acucar or Sugarloaf, a granite block mountain at the mouth of Guanabara Bay that is only reached by a two-tiered smaller
cable
car
mountain
that
before
first
stops
continuing
the
top
to
the
summit
on
at
of
a of
Sugarloaf. Also worth touring is the Tijuca Rain Forest, a dense tropical
forest
above
Rio
with
a
mix
of
homes
of
the
wealthy and poor and spectacular view spots. Driving in an open jeep, we went through a shanty town where dozens of kids lying flat on wide home-made roller boards joyously careened downhill. Music blasted from the narrow hillside streets. Neighbors danced and waved. The poor in Rio seemed to be enjoying life. While there is plenty of poverty in Rio and the risks of crime are well publicized, in the city’s tourist friendly areas, I felt in no jeopardy. And, I
saw
no
danced,
beggars.
sang,
The
and
poor
sold
performed
their
wares,
acrobatics.
I
juggled,
never
was
harassed by a beggar. While
Rio
is
a
city
500
years
old,
most
of
the
colonial structures have been swept away. Only a few great 18th and 19th century buildings remain – the Paco Imperial or former imperial palace; the National History Museum; the Monastery of Sao Bento; and the Church of Nossa Senhora da Candelaria. There are some interesting newer landmarks like the unusual cone-shaped Cathedral of Sao Sebastiao built in 1976 and designed to seat 25,000 worshipers, and the Teatro Municipal, Rio’s opera house, built in 1909 and modeled after the Paris Opera. While
there
are
some
quasi-fashionable
shopping
districts, particularly along Rua Visconde de Piraja behind Ipanema Beach, and mega shopping malls like the Rio Sol, I found
nothing
of
the
quality,
variety,
or
style
easily
found
in
upscale
bargains, natives,
American
particularly Brazil
has
in
an
stores. shoes
But
and
interesting
you
will
clothing. pricing
find
And
and
for
payment
system. Prices are listed as 3x, 4x, or 5x “$$$”. That system allows locals to charge the item incrementally on their accounts or credit cards. You can enjoy Sunday with a leisurely stroll through Ipanema’s Feira Hippie or Flea market where booths are set up
selling
handmade
jewelry,
clothes,
leather
bags,
and
lots of touristy knickknacks. Or, you can do something more life
threatening,
like
watching
a
soccer
game
at
Rio’s
Maracana stadium. The Maracana, built for the 1950 World Cup, is the world’s largest soccer stadium with seating for 178,000 and standing room for another 42,000. Brazilians take their soccer seriously. Or perhaps too seriously. We went to see a game between two rival Rio teams, Vasco and Flamingo. Huge surging crowds stood in line for tickets. Violence toting
was police
seemingly only kept at bay by machine gun helicopters
overhead
and
lots
of
ground
troops with hands on drawn pistols. There is nothing like the threat of death to make a sporting event more exciting. Inside the staid concrete stadium, guards ask you to choose where you want to sit, that is, which team you want to support.
Arbitrarily,
we
chose
the
red
shirted
Flamingo
side. Fans were fanatic - screaming, waving huge banners, playing drums. On the field, security was further enhanced by a moat around the field that could only be breached by a retractable bridge. The crowd was more entertaining than the
game
–
erupting
with
great
“ooh-ahh”
chants
and
igniting fireworks in the stands. At halftime a series of high
performance
planes
flew
precariously
low
over
the
stadium to further incite the crowd. But I couldn’t get the “wave” to catch on. We had some great meals in Rio and traditionally they start late, certainly after 8 p.m. I enjoyed the Marius across from Leme Beach on the beachfront Avenue Atlantica. There are two Marius restaurants. One specializes in meat, the other in fish. We ate at the churrascaria, meat venue. The service and ambiance were superb. You start with an introductory
cocktail
of the national drink,
caipirinha,
made from cachaca, a sugarcane liquor, that tastes like a whiskey sour. Then there’s a buffet of shellfish, sushi, and Brazilian fajiodes or meat stews. Waiters then arrive and keep arriving to carve an assortment of meats and fowl tableside
–
filet
mignon, prime rib, rib eye, and much
more. Just a few blocks down the boulevard from Marius is the Copacabana Palace Hotel (800-237-1236). This was the first hotel built on Copacabana Beach in the 1920’s and was refurbished
in
the
‘40’s
and
‘80’s.
Its
225
rooms
are
exquisitely furnished in polished woods and marble. There is a long corridor in the hotel with photos of the famous that have stayed there over the years – from Orson Welles to Eva Peron, Princess Di to Robert De Niro. It is the only truly five-star hotel in the city with service and décor suitable
for
royalty
and
celebrities.
Standard
rooms,
without an ocean view, are about $320/night. Or you can have a penthouse suite on a private floor with a butler for about $3000/night. We had dinner at their formal Italian restaurant, Cipriani, where multiple waiters dramatically serve
the
main
courses
by
simultaneously
domed covers from perfect entrees.
lifting
silver
We had another dinner at Sri Mole, an intimate seafood restaurant in Ipanema. There the fish stew – moqueca – is the regional specialty you have to try. Summers in the southern hemisphere are our winters. So,
the
beaches
are
most
crowded
during
the
months
of
November to February. The most popular season in Rio is Mardi Gras and Fat Tuesday comes just before Ash Wednesday, arriving on February 8th in 2005. Carioca prepare all year for
the
week-long
event.
But
if
you
can’t
be
there
in
February, perhaps the next best way to experience some of the color Mardi Gras is to take in the show at Plataforma. This
is
a
large
nightclub
venue
that
on
the
night
we
attended had a sold out crowd of patrons from more than a dozen countries. The unusual warm-up act pays testament to Brazil’s devotion to soccer. For about 45 minutes before the show, a young girl in soccer garb bounced a ball nonstop from her legs and her head - never dropping it. Then the show began - a gaudy Brazilian pageant of samba, drums, dance, and fantastic parades of men and women in Mardi Gras costume. On our last night in Rio, we went to the Vinicius Bar across
the
street
from
the
Garota
de
Ipanema.
Both
restaurants claim fame as the place Al Jobin wrote his song “The Girl from Ipanema” and where he caught sight of that “tall and tan and young and lovely.” Over coffee and Tia Maria,
we
particularly clearly
mused from
over on
discovered
how high
beautiful –
and
how
the
city
was
the
carioca
-
have
how to enjoy life – with dance, and
song, and sport. In any visit to Rio, I think you too will discover and share their joy. I suggest you do it without jumping off a cliff.
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