Tourist Guide to Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Contents Institutional Presentation
4
General
10
Santa Cruz + History
16
Santa Cruz + Contemporary
32
Santa Cruz + Culture
38
Santa Cruz + Leisure
48
Santa Cruz + Shopping
66
Santa Cruz + Taste
74
Santa Cruz + Green
78
Santa Cruz + the Districts
84
Trails through the city
86
Practical guide
88
Santa Cruz de Tenerife Atlantic crossroads of three continents Santa Cruz de Tenerife is an ancient city with many years of history. But it is also a modern city which is on the crossroads for travel to the three continents that border the Atlantic. We were for many years the political and administrative capital of the Canary Islands and now we add to our ancient regional leadership a varied range of proposals which will make the visit of holidaymakers from any point of the compass very attractive. Culture, folklore, unusual architecture, the power of our cuisine, the richness on the palate and the variety of our wines and the superb climatic location that is associated with our beautiful landscapes, the sun and the beaches will satisfy, beyond a shadow of a doubt, the curiosity of all those who come from overseas to learn about our customs. Santa Cruz is a city of museums, parks and gardens full of the most exuberant flora; it is a city of sculptures in the street and the town that exalts the Cross in May, only a few months after experiencing the carnival, the fiesta for which we are best known beyond our frontiers and which has now established that it is by far the best Carnival in Europe and one of the most famous and best known in the world.
Santa Cruz keeps its cultural attractions and most traditional fiestas alive throughout the year. The Port brings us dozens of liners carrying thousands of luxury cruise passengers. The shopping streets of the city centre are open for purchasing the most traditional products or the most advanced elements of modern technology. Soon, Santa Cruz, a town intimately linked with the sea since its foundation, will have the best city beach in Europe, with the best services: Las Teresitas. And together with its commercial tradition, the kindness of the subtropical climate and its cuisine and fiestas, we shall also continue to offer the overseas visitor the rural city that can be seen from the fields, the rocky mountainsides on which the inhabited hamlets of the district of Anaga are located. We are therefore a city which encloses in its municipal district a varied range of options for culture, entertainment, leisure or sports. For all these reasons, Santa Cruz will continue to be the best option for tourists on this side of the world. The doors of our city are open to everybody. No visitor need feel disappointed. Miguel Zerolo Aguilar Mayor of Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Presentation
4·5
Miguel Zerolo Aguilar. Mayor of Santa Cruz de Tenerife
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“Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands”
Geographical location and area of the borough
Santa Cruz is the capital borough located in the north-east of the island of Tenerife, the largest of the seven Canary Islands, located between Gran Canaria, La Gomera and La Palma. GEOGRAPHICAL MAGNITUDES OF SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE Height above sea level of the Municipal Capital Maximum height above sea level Minimum height
VALUE
UNIT
4
ms.
750
ms.
4
ms.
U.T.M. Coordinate (X)
377.123
U.T.M.
U.T.M. Coordinate (Y)
3.149.984
U.T.M.
Latitude
28° 28’ N
º‘
Longitude
16° 15’ W
º‘ Kms.
Length of coastline
58,33
Municipal perimeter
111,13
Kms.
Área
150,56
kms2
Source: Canarian Statistical Institute (ISTAC). Preparation: Socio-economic observatory. Santa Cruz de Tenerife Development Agency.
The borough measures some one hundred and fifty square kilometres including the city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife and the whole of the Anaga Massif, with its precipitous contours, deep ravines and exceptional natural environment rich in unique species of flora and fauna. Santa Cruz de Tenerife has it all, it is the perfect combination of the sea, virgin nature and a town which, although it is open to modern times, preserves its traditional essence and simplicity.
General
10 · 11
The Anaga Massif.
Climate Its subtropical location and the action of the trade winds makes it possible for the city to enjoy a gentle climate which is reflected in the minimal temperature variations throughout the year. There are no great differences between the seasons, or between day and night. The annual average is around 21ºC.
“Santa Cruz de Tenerife, eternal spring”
Maximum
The city’s rainfall is moderate and unevenly distributed throughout the year with the months between October and March receiving most rain while the summer is the driest period.
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
NOV
DEC
21°C
21°C
22°C
22°C
24°C
26°C
28°C
29°C
28°C
26°C
24°C
22°C
Minimum
15°C
15°C
16°C
16°C
18°C
19°C
21°C
21°C
21°C
20°C
18°C
16°C
Minimum
18°C
18°C
19°C
19°C
21°C
22°C
25°C
25°C
25°C
23°C
21°C
19°C
Rainfall
36 mm
36 mm
28 mm
14 mm
4 mm
1 mm
0 mm
1 mm
6 mm
18 mm
28 mm
43 mm
Historical monthly values for Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
General
12 · 13
The Anaga Massif.
Population RESIDENT POPULATION IN THE BOROUGH OF SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE, BY DISTRICTS INCLUDING AREA (KM2). 2006 Residents
Km2
ANAGA
14.233
119,3
Density of population 119,3 Hab/km2
CENTRO
53.983
4,4
12.236,2 Hab/km2
OFRA-COSTA SUR
47.892
7,5
6.357,7 Hab/km2
SALUD-LA SALLE
70.806
4,1
17.104,8 Hab/km2
SUROESTE
42.360
14,6
2.905,6 Hab/km2
SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE
229.274
150,0
1.528,7 Hab/km2
Source: Electoral Register of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Preparation: Socio-economic observatory. Development Agency Santa Cruz de Tenerife. EVOLUTION OF THE RESIDENT POPULATION in THE BOROUGH OF SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE. 2004-2006
Residents
2004
2005
2006
224.268
228.594
229.274
1,93%
0,30%
Variation Year on Year (%)
Source: Electoral Register of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Preparation: Socio-economic observatory. Development Agency Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
Currency and language Currency
Euro
Language
Spanish
Economy
HOTEL AND CATERING 5,2%
OTHER 11,8%
Business and real estate services 19,2%
HEALTH AND SOCIAL SERVICES 7,5%
Transport and communications 11,6%
EDUCATION 7,6% CONSTRUCTION 8,1%
FINANCIAL BROKERAGE 8,4%
Public Administration 9,7%
Commerce and repairs 10,9%
Source: Canarian Statistical Institute (ISTAC). Preparation: Socio-economic observatory. Santa Cruz de Tenerife Development Agency.
Political system
Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the site of the Canary Islands Parliament and, for alternate legislatures, that of the Presidency of the Government. Access and Transport
transport and ferries from the other Canary Islands and one of the most important is the port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, which has also become an important port of call for cruise liners on the Atlantic routes (from the Mediterranean and America). Among the connections to emphasise regarding maritime transport are the boats arriving from Gran Canaria, La Palma and El Hierro, among other islands. Within the port area are the offices of different companies providing this kind of service, at excellent prices and with frequent departures.
By road: By air: The city has access by road from the Island’s northern motorway, TF-5, for visitors from the north of the island or Los Rodeos Airport (TFN). For those coming from the south of the island or from Reina Sofía Airport (TFS) access is via the southern motorway, TF-1. Santa Cruz de Tenerife offers regular public transport by bus, both urban and long distance and there is also the recently inaugurated tram, which connects the borough of Santa Cruz with La Laguna. By sea: The island of Tenerife has ports for maritime
The island of Tenerife has two airports, Los Rodeos (TFN) located in the north of Tenerife some twelve kilometres away from Santa Cruz and Reina Sofía (TFS) in the south of the island slightly less than sixty kilometres from the island’s capital. Both airports connect the island of Tenerife with the rest of the Canaries, Spain and the world. As tourism is the main economic activity and source of income, Tenerife has excellent connections with direct flights from both airports to other countries in Europe, Africa and America.
14 · 15
General
Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the administrative capital of this island and of the province of the same name, made up of the Islands of Tenerife, La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro. It likewise shares the status of capital of the Canary Islands Autonomous Community with the city of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
Santa Cruz + History “A living city. Every corner is a discovery for the senses”
“From a Menceyate to a gateway of the Conquest”. Santa Cruz de Tenerife arose within what was known in the pre-Hispanic period as Anaga, one of the nine principalities into which the island was divided prior to the conquest and began in the bay, on Añazo beach.
Detail.
The Church of La Concepción.
There had been many previous expeditions which had visited the Island, some of which were ships putting in as part of the ordinary maritime traffic between Europe, Africa and America, others were with the intention of merely looting or taking away the natives as slaves. However, in 1464, on the coastal area known as El Bufadero, the Guanches of Bencomo (the Prince or Mencey of Anaga at that time) and Spanish soldiers under Diego de Herrera signed the “Bufadero Peace”.
But it was not until 3rd May 1494 when the “Adelantado” (or Governor), Alonso Fernández de Lugo, arrived with his troops on the beach at Añazo and held the first Catholic mass, setting up a wooden cross which subsequently gave the town its name. This was the first episode of the definitive conquest of Tenerife, which concluded in 1496.
But this tiny hamlet gradually achieved its status due to its own merit as a result of the commercial activities deriving from its situation as a port and thanks to such episodes as the victory of the inhabitants against the British under Rear Admiral Horatio Nelson in the early morning of 25th July 1797, which is now known as the Gesta del 25 de Julio, after which Santa Cruz was declared Villa Exenta, independent of the town of La Laguna.
16 · 17
Santa Cruz + History
Santa Cruz de Tenerife was at first just a group of humble houses next to a port on the bay that the Spanish fortified conscientiously against the prospect of an invasion or a raid by pirates, corsairs or other peoples who wished
to re-conquer the island or gain access to La Laguna, the seat of political and ecclesiastical power of the Spanish crown on the island.
The bay of Santa Cruz. Conquest of Tenerife.
Historical Areas The Quarter of La Concepción It is located in the part of the city closest to the sea, next to the important commercial port. In the pedestrian streets of the area, where there are now restaurants, practice facilities for Carnival groups and the offices of a variety of institutions, numerous buildings bear witness to the historical development of the city. One example is the church of La Concepción, which was first built in 1500, although it was rebuilt in 1653. In the interior, it is possible to see the image of Nuestra Señora de la Consolación (15th Century). It was around this church that the original nucleus of Santa Cruz, which until 1859 was only the port of the neighbouring town of San Cristóbal de La Laguna, arose. Iglesia Nª Sª de La Concepción 1 In the year 1500, the construction of a church devoted to the Holy Cross was begun, founded by the father, Juan Guerra. The place of worship, which received the name of Nuestra Señora de la Conception in 1638, was burnt down in a fire in 1652 and rebuilt in 1653; the tower was built in 1786. The current structure therefore belongs to the 17th and 18th Centuries, consisting of five
naves in a ground plan of a Latin cross and a Tuscan architectural structure, with the stamp of Canarian colonial aesthetics. This church houses a very important artistic heritage. The oldest elements are the small Gothic image of the Virgen de Consolación, to whom the conqueror, Fernández de Lugo, built a chapel in 1496, and the Cross of the Conquest, brought ashore by de Lugo when he disembarked in the year 1494. The church has a series of marble piles, of Genoese origin. The carvings on the pulpit by the Tenerife artist, Rodríguez de la Oliva, are outstanding. Among the work in precious metals, the silver throne which carries the image of the Santo Entierro in Holy Week, which is considered to be among the best in the Canary Islands, is particularly important. The throne of Corpus Christi, made along with a number of other pieces by Damián de Castro, from Cordoba, is conserved in the Sacristy. The Logman brothers provided the church, where they were priests, with valuable works of art such as the beautiful monstrance called the “Logman
Santa Cruz + History
18 · 19
Church of Nuestra Señora de La Conception.
Model of Santa Cruz de Tenerife 18th Century.
monstrance”. The masterpiece in the church is for many the Carta chapel, in the antesacristy. It was ordered to be built by Captain Matías Rodríguez Carta in the 18th Century dedicated to St. Matthew. The altarpiece is extremely ornate, in a baroque-churrigueresque style. The main altar is presided by the Immaculate Conception, an excellent image by the Orotava artist, Fernando Estévez. The altarpiece is one of the most elegant baroque works on Tenerife. The church has one of the best pieces of sacred art on the island, the Cristo del Buen Viaje, from the 17th Century, together with other pieces of value such as the works of the Canarian Imagemakers, Miguel Arroyo, Luján Pérez, Rodríguez de la Oliva, González de Ocampo and Fernando Estévez. Regarding the paintings, the church has two interesting canvases by Juan de Miranda, and other anonymous works. The church also has a significant musical archive and an organ that was built in London in 1862.
The Old Civil Hospital Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados Among the 18th Century buildings of a public nature that are still standing is the Civil Hospital de los Desamparados, located on
the right-hand side of the Santos ravine. The Hospital started to function in 1753, with capacity for thirty beds. In the following century, the architect, Manuel de Oraá, refurbished it following the guidelines for cleanliness and improvement. A serious fire in 1888 destroyed much of the building. The architect, Manuel de Cámara, directed the reconstruction work particularly with regard to the interior. The façade of the building is one of the best examples of neo-classical architecture in the Canary Islands.
Convento de Santo Domingo In about 1573 a new chapel devoted to Nuestra Señora de La Consolación was built in the west of the city, close to the Barranco de Santos. The new building led to the Dominican friars founding a monastery in the early 17th Century. The chapel had been transferred from its original location, the Laja de San Cristóbal, to the upper part of the town. This district was known as La Consolación and also as Barrio de Vilaflor, although subsequently the name became Miraflores, as it is today. The space that there was in front of the monastery later became known, after
Island Government and Post Office.
the appearance of the Theatre, as the Plaza del Teatro, although more recently, the name was changed to Plaza de la Isla de Madeira.
of the 18th Century, work was undertaken on the walls to make a residence for the Mayor.
Opposite the monastery, there was a small square, which was at first known as Plaza de la Consolación later becoming Plaza de Santo Sunday and in which even today there is a fountain.
A large part of the history of Santa Cruz has to do with the Castle of San Cristóbal:
It began to be built in December 1575 when the Island Government received the agreement of King Felipe II. The castle was designed by Francés de Álava as engineer although Marcos Enríquez was responsible for the actual construction. The work was possibly completed in 1581. The castle was square in shape, with four pointed angles, high walls, parapets with loopholes and the coat of arms of San Cristóbal on its main gate. In the interior, there was an arsenal with gunpowder, a water tank and the lodgings of the Mayor. With the construction of the castle, trained artillerymen appeared on Tenerife to man It. The appearance of the castle was gradually transformed over the years and, at the end
• 6th November 1706, Santa Cruz was again attacked by a British squadron under John Jennings. • The main warlike achievement was on 25th July 1797 against the British navy, this time under the command of Horatio Nelson. The moment arrived when the development of Santa Cruz demanded the disappearance of the old castle and a large square was planned at the very entrance to the city. In 1908, the plans for the buildings housing the Cabildo, or Island Government, the Post Office and the Casino de Santa Cruz already existed so the plans for demolition appeared to be Imminent. From then on, the castle was the property of the local authority until 1929, when it was demolished. By March 1930 it had completely disappeared. Nevertheless, its walls and foundations still remain beneath the current Plaza de España.
20 · 21
Santa Cruz + History
The Old Castle of San Cristóbal
• 30th April 1657, it fought against the English fleet under Admiral Blake.
El Triunfo de la Virgen de Candelaria” (Pascuale Bocciardo).
Plaza de La Candelaria
2
One of the main “gateways” to the city which received all those who arrived from the port. This is a spacious plot which continues to bid welcome to our visitors and which serves for the ordinary people to meet in any kind of festivity, or simply as an area for walking for the residents of the city. Its origins go back to the late 16th Century, when the current Calle del Castillo used to reach the shoreline, with a line of houses making up its lower limit. These houses were knocked down with the aim of increasing the size of the periphery of the castle and it is for this reason that the first denomination was Plaza del Castillo. Subsequently, in the 18th Century, the Square itself appeared and it received the Pile, at which point it was known as Plaza de La Pila. At this time, the Marble Cross was installed which was at the western end of the square, that is to say the upper part as a symbol of the name of the town. It can now be seen in the Plaza de la Iglesia.
Palacio de Carta.
the square, at the eastern end. This is a work by Pascuale Bocciardo and is known as “ El Triunfo de la Virgen de Candelaria”, the patron saint of Tenerife, representing her appearance to the native inhabitants, the Guanches. It consists of a pyramid with the Virgin Mary at its peak with writing on the four faces. Beneath the Virgin, there are four statues in natural size representing the Princes of the four principalities of the island who did not resist the Spanish and finally, at the base of the monument, there were four allegories representing the seasons which have now disappeared. Its second name was that of Plaza Real and its appearance was defined by a series of columns which surrounded the square and were linked by chains. It s third name, Plaza de la Constitución, was derived from the year 1812 and the parliament of Cadiz. Finally, in 1956, it received its current name of Plaza de la Candelaria.
Palacio de Carta It was known as Plaza de la Pila as there was a fountain, the Pila, the first sculpture in Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Another monument appeared in 1778, made of Genoese marble and placed at the other end of
3
Possibly the best-known spot in Santa Cruz during the 18th Century. It was located on the Plaza de la Candelaria and had been ordered to be built in 1721 by Matías Rodríguez Carta, the work being completed in 1752. It has a façade
Church of San Francisco.
in quarried stone distributed over three storeys and finished off by a cornice which is undulated in the central part. In the Interior, it had two courtyards in the traditional Canarian style. In the last century, it served as a residence of the Captains General until the Captain’s Offices were built. It was the location of the Civil Government and finally it was the main office of a bank.
institutions is something that might today be surprising. The only sign that remains of these two foundations is the magnificent church of San Francisco, belonging to the old Franciscan Friary. The Franciscan friars were located in the chapel of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, situated in what were at that time the outskirts of the town, the Barranco de Guaite.
Plaza del Príncipe
4
In the 19th Century, with Romanticism in full swing and as the town grew, another square with special Importance was the Plaza del Príncipe, built on the site of the garden of the Franciscan Friary. In 1871, by popular Initiative, a large iron fountain was set up in the centre of the square. Nowadays, only the upper bowl remains located at the back of the square. Just as in La Alameda, at the entrance to the square two allegorical statues were set up representing Spring and Summer. In 1929, the bandstand that we can see today and which is occasionally used as a stage for a performance by the Municipal Band was installed. The Old Franciscan Friary and the Church of San Francisco
5
The existence in Santa Cruz of two religious
The application for the foundation was made in early 1677, with its installation under the name of San Pedro Alcántara being authorised one year later. The Choir was not finished until 1721. The church was extended to three naves as it can be seen today. In 1760, the construction of a new nave on land taken from El Tigre street (which is now Villalba Hervás) was put forward. In 1776, the work on the third and final nave was begun, next to the friary, which was finished the following year. The current façade of the church of San Francisco dates approximately from the year 1777, since the work on the nave of the Epistle was used to make it raising the height of the main nave a little so as to make the Interior better lit and more spacious. The friary was a fairly spacious building next to the church. On the outside, its façade looked over the Plaza de San Francisco and was maintained until the 20th Century. Nowadays only the tower remains, which began to be built in
22 · 23
Santa Cruz + History
Plaza del Principe.
Plaza de Valeriano Weyler.
1769 and which was raised, three years later, up to the height of the bells. The dome covered in tiles was crowned by a statue of the Virgin Mary and was also finished in 1777.
a place for pleasant meetings and conversation as well as a place for walking and leisure.
Plaza de Valeriano Weyler 7 Alameda de El Duque de Santa Elena 6 Now turning to look at the lower part of the city, that is to say, the area that is closest to the port, we might go through the Alameda del Muelle or Alameda del Marqués de Branciforte, so called in honour of the Captain General of the Canary Islands, who ordered it to be built in the year 1787. It has also been known as the Alameda 14 de abril. Its entrance was made up of three arches crowned with the Royal Arms of Spain and on either side were the white marble statues representing the Spring and the Summer, and at the end of the Alameda or avenue was another statue representing Time. It extended towards the area of San Andrés and included three streets which, planted with Lebanon planes and Indian laurels offered a green area which was most suitable for a stroll. In the central street and almost at the end of the promenade there is a Carrara marble fountain crowned with three Tritons or dolphins. It was
The Calle de La Consolación, at its upper end, joined the old road which led to La Laguna, which began where Plaza de Weyler now stands. For this reason, this place began to be called, La Salida (the departure point) and there was an enormous hubbub caused by the public transport vehicles which stopped there for people who were entering or leaving Santa Cruz. The old Military Hospital was located here until it was demolished by the Captain General of the Canary Islands, Valeriano Weyler, who built the current Captaincy General on the same site. As a result, the square became known as Plaza de Weyler, in tribute to the illustrious soldier. Calle Castillo also led to the square.
Barrio del Toscal This quarter was also known as Los Toscales or Las Toscas, without a doubt due to the nature of the land, which was a rough wasteland (tosca is Spanish for tuff). It was under
The Cannon Tigre.
the jurisdiction of the church of San Francisco. This quarter underwent great expansion during the 18th Century and may have been the largest in Santa Cruz. New houses built in low quality materials began to arise on the northern side of the town, in many cases in the form of tenements.
that same year with the work beginning on 6th November. In 1884, the work was completed although by then it no longer had any military value due to the improvements in artillery techniques and the growth of the town, which had surrounded it.
Streets such as Santiago, San Miguel, Tribulaciones and La Luna appeared... which gradually occupied all the available space in that part of the town.
Fountain of Isabel II 8 It is made up of a receptacle, a first part of six Tuscan columns holding the next layer, and a second body or ornamental top with the arms of the city. Between the columns there are five lion’s heads in bronze which are conduits for the water. It is made of basaltic bluish granite. It was set up on 25th August 1845 in celebration of the birthday of the Princess María Luisa Fernanda. The Almeida Barracks
9
In 1854, a decision was taken to build the Almeida Fort and on 21st April the colonel of engineers, Clavijo y Plo, presented his plans, which were approved on 22nd September of
It served as the headquarters of the Artillery Regiment. In 1890, the barracks had 30 cannons, including eight 21-centimetre howitzers and twenty-one cannons on the roof. During its history, the barracks have undergone a number of refurbishments until in 1940 the artillery was removed and it became the current Regional Military Museum of the Canary Islands. Currently the museum has a number of pieces, foremost among which are: • The cannon, “Tigre”, which is known because the shrapnel from one of its shots caused the wounds to Nelson’s arm which led to its amputation. • The cannon, “Hércules”. Its archives make this museum one of the most important research locations in the Canary Islands as regards historical cartography. It is also possible to see some of the weapons used in the battles to conquer Tenerife.
24 · 25
Santa Cruz + History
Fountain of Isabel II.
Barrio del Cabo y Los Llanos Castle of San Juan
10
The southern flank of the town was protected by the Castle of San Juan Bautista, which was ordered to be built in 1641 in what was known as the Bay of Negros. Three years later, the work was complete.
Casa de la Pólvora 11 This is another of Santa Cruz’s defensive buildings. It was built between 1756 and 1758 near to the Castle of San Juan, the work of the military engineer, La Pierre. It consists of a large rectangular area covered by a half-barrel vault.
This was a building with a circular tower of quarried stone, next to the buildings for the troops, the officers and the gunpowder store. It remained like this until 1765, when the military engineer, Alejandro de los Ángeles, designed the building as it can be seen today, with a circular layout and an elevation in quarried stone from the foundations.
Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Regla 12 Located on the outskirts of the city in the southern part, in the so-called Camino de las Cruces or El Calvario, as it was a place of burial at times of catastrophic death. This chapel was set up in 1643 by the Island Government dedicated to Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe although it was popularly known as La Regla, and served for many years as the chapel of the barracks of the Castle of San Juan which is nearby. Casa de la Pólvora.
Santa Cruz + History
26 · 27
Castle of San Juan.
The Port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife The fact that it was a port has defined the history of Santa Cruz from the very start. Firstly as the point of arrival of the European expeditions and subsequently, once the process of the conquest was complete, as one of the main ports of Tenerife and the closest to the city of La Laguna. From a very early date onwards it was known as the main port, through which sugar, orchil and wheat were exported. Likewise it was the point where the inter-island shipping put in and during the 17th Century half the ships en route to the West Indies passed through the Port of Santa Cruz. The town always received manufactures and food that the island could not produce or in which there was a deficit, above all, wheat. In the early 16th Century, it was prohibited to take bread or barley outside the island and all loading operations had to take place at the Royal Port of Santa Cruz. One of the first concerns of the Tenerife Island Government was to provide the port with a dock so as to improve communications. Once the island had been conquered, the defensive bastions faced out to sea as this was the main port and the key to the Island.
The attacks on Santa Cruz during the Ancien Regime were basically a strategy of pirate and corsair raids. The presence of corsair ships outside the port was a frequent image for the inhabitants of the place. The 18th Century was a watershed for the port which would lead to its development due mainly to three characteristics: • The progress regarding internal communications, with the result that the transport of manufactures from the north of the island became less troublesome. • The fact that the Captains General were now accommodated in Santa Cruz. • The appearance and growth of a bourgeoiscommercial class related with the port. • The volcanic eruption of 1706 which destroyed the port of Garachico, which had until then been the most important in terms of commercial traffic. These were the reasons that Santa Cruz was no longer considered merely the port of La Laguna, and became a more and more important commercial centre in its own right. It can be
seen therefore that the current city of Santa Cruz arose as a result of its port. The continual improvements contributed substantially to this progress. It was necessary to set out a new location for the dock as the transactions that had until then been made in La Caleta now had to take place in a location with a greater depth of water. The military engineer, Miguel Benito Herrán, took part in these deliberations and in the year 1729, he put forward without success the construction of a jetty from the so called Laja de San Cristóbal.
Santa Cruz + History
28 · 29
Later, in 1741, the commandant general, Bonito y Pignatelli, asked his engineer, Antonio La Rivière, to study and design the proposal that had previously been made by Benito Herrán. Next year, La Riviére handed over his plan, which was authorised in Madrid in May 1742. However, just as in the first case, this plan was never carried out. Seven years later, another commandant, on this occasion Juan de Urbina, tried to create the new dock. With this purpose, he asked the wealthiest of the merchants to contribute to the new plan. Using both taxes and donations, it was possible this time for the project drawn up by the engineers Francisco La Pierre and Manuel Hernández in the year 1749, to start Port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
Sculpture of Horatio Nelson, Trafalgar Square. London.
Estevanez Murphy.
to be constructed one year later. This work consisted of building a breakwater which began from the Laja de San Cristóbal running perpendicular to the coastline finished off in the shape of a T.
The heroic defence of 25th July 1797
However, a little while later, in 1755, a new storm caused grave damage to the jetty. The merchants and other people from the port who had made their investments in the previous project then wondered whether it would not be more advisable to put the dock back to the initial location of La Caleta.
The attack by Rear Admiral Nelson is the best-remembered moment in the history of Santa Cruz. When the English raid arose, Spain was at war with Britain. The squadron that attacked the coast of Tenerife had set off from the bay of Cadiz. Rear Admiral Nelson came to the port of Santa Cruz with the idea of getting his hands on a good haul since he had news that the ships from Manila were anchored here.
Nevertheless, in 1784, Andrés Amat de Tortosa began the repair work with the collaboration of Francisco Jacot. This work was completed in 1787 and it was then that Santa Cruz for the first time had good up-to-date facilities. The work involved:
For his expedition, Nelson had nine ships and 393 cannon. However, he did not take into account the defensive position of the islanders who were very accustomed to seeing enemy ships off their coast and nor did he have detailed knowledge of the terrain.
• Deeper and better foundations for the jetty.
The defence of the city was under the command of General Antonio Gutiérrez who did not ignore the protection of the coast. Thus the castles (San Cristóbal, San Andrés, Paso Alto, San Juan and Puerto Caballos) and numerous batteries constituted the defensive wall of Santa Cruz.
• Modification of the layout of the steps for access. • Underground pipes for the water supply to the ships. • Building for the port officials. • Paving of the area to facilitate wheeled traffic.
After numerous feints, a group of Englishmen managed to reach the dock where they were received by the militia, some townspeople
Aerial view of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
The defeat of Rear Admiral Nelson led to the city being awarded the title of Villa, a simple honorary concession if one looks at the few powers granted. However this title gave a certain prestige to what had hitherto been just a Port and Plaza. This was indeed the finishing touch to the century which had begun with the demographic and commercial boom of Santa Cruz.
The Status of Capital Santa Cruz became the capital of the island of Tenerife due to a range of historic events which happened over time: the Canary Islands have been since the 15th Century under Spanish administration and it was during the 16th Century that the town began to be coveted for its strategic value as a port of call on the routes to America. It was at that time that different pirate attacks began, the most important of which was the raid by Rear Admiral Nelson and his troops on 25th
July 1797. Santa Cruz was victorious in this battle with the result that it was granted the title of Villa Exenta and in 1803 it became independent of La Laguna, which was until then the capital of the island, since after the conquest the political and ecclesiastical power of the Spanish crown had been set up there. The disappearance of the port of Garachico was also a significant event which gave greater importance to the port of Santa Cruz. Due to these events, the growth of the port and the transfer of the Captaincy General and the ecclesiastical powers to Santa Cruz, the city was designated the capital of the province of the Canary Islands in 1812. Nowadays, there are two provincial capitals, Santa Cruz de Tenerife with the western islands of La Palma, El Hierro, La Gomera and Tenerife, and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria with the eastern Islands of Lanzarote and the Chinijo Archipelago (the island of la Graciosa and the smaller Islands of Montaña Clara and Alegranza), Fuerteventura together with the island of Lobos, and the island of Gran Canaria. The full name of the city of Santa Cruz is Muy Leal, Noble, Invicta y Muy Benéfica Ciudad, Puerto y Plaza de Santa Cruz de Santiago de Tenerife (the Very Loyal, Noble, Unconquered and Most Charitable City and Port of Santa Cruz de Santiago de Tenerife).
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and the fire from the batteries. Captain Bowen died there as a result of a cannon shot fired from the main castle and Nelson was injured in the arm which he would finally lose altogether.
Santa Cruz + Contemporary “A living city. Every corner is a discovery to the senses.”
Bank headquarters.
International Fair and Congress Centre of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
Growth of the City in the 20th and 21st Centuries
Santa Cruz de Tenerife is a place in constant transformation and adaptation to new times but it has been in the final few decades that there has been a considerable leap forward in terms of growth and development regarding modern Infrastructure. Projects such as the pedestrianisation of the centre, the historical area and the shopping streets, the rehabilitation of old buildings behind their original façades, the start up of modern projects such as the reconstruction of Plaza de España (Herzog and De Meuron), the Tenerife Auditorio and the Trade Fair Centre (Santiago Calatrava) or the César Manrique Lido are examples of adaptation to the needs of the Modern World in a city which lives the present without ceasing to observe the future. One of the most important pieces of work, recently inaugurated and of incalculable value as a public service, is a modern tram line connecting the cities of Santa Cruz and La Laguna passing through the metropolitan area of both towns.
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Tenerife Tram.
Auditorio de Tenerife
Buildings and new Infrastructure
Tenerife Auditorio “like an architecturalwork of art”
building, with its two halls, occupies 6,471 m². The main or Symphonic Hall, crowned by a dome has 1,562 seats set out in the shape of an amphitheatre, as well as a stage with a proscenium of 16.5 metres and a depth of fourteen.
The building. A unique space. In the heart of Santa Cruz de Tenerife stands an impressive and unique building. Sprayed by the sea, caressed by the sun, facing the wind, playing with the salt. A real marvel of avant-garde architecture created by the prestigious architect, Santiago Calatrava. Since its inauguration in September 2003, the Tenerife Auditorio has marked a new stage in the artistic life of the Canary Islands, and has become a cultural and social motor and a genuine symbol for the people of Tenerife. The exceptional acoustics, the personality and the great quality of its activities and performances, have led to this being one of the auditoria of most prestige internationally locating Tenerife in an exceptional position on the world musical stage. The plot occupies 23,000 m² of which the
International Fairand Congress Centre of Santa Cruz de Tenerife
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The International Fair and Congress Centre of Tenerife, inaugurated in May 1996, occupies an area of more than 40,000 square metres next to the sea in Santa Cruz de Tenerife. It is in the same area as other important locations such as the César Manrique Lido and the Tenerife Auditorio. This building is also the location of the Tenerife World Trade Center. The complex, designed by the architect and engineer, Santiago Calatrava, is a multipurpose building which can house the main fairs, exhibitions and congresses taking place on the island of Tenerife. Since its inauguration, all kinds of events have been held in its interior: trade fairs (food, computing, agriculture and livestock, leisure, etc.), concerts, competitions and galas at Carnival time, conferences, seminars, art exhibitions, political rallies, television pro-
International Trade Fair and Conference Centre of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
César Manrique Lido
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The César Manrique Lido is a 22,000 square metre complex of seawater swimming pools, the posthumous work of the late Lanzarote artist, César Manrique, combining the beauty of the building with elements of the volcanic landscapes of the Canary Islands and a clear subtropical essence, just as he had previously created in the complex of similar characteristics, the “Lago Martiánez” in Puerto de la Cruz on Tenerife. It is located on the coast of the area of Cabo Llanos which has recently been modernised in the city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, next to the Castle of San Juan and the site of the Tenerife Auditorio. It has restaurants, changing rooms, showers, a whirlpool bath, sun loungers and parasols together with all sorts of installations to make this the ideal place both for tourist and leisure activities, events and such like.
The Tram The contours of the town of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, which is relatively steep make difficult the development of initiatives, which have been put in place over the last few decades in other similar cities in Spain and Europe, which have an underground railway, a train or tram. However, in connection with this latter form of transport, Santa Cruz took a step towards modernity in the early 20th Century, in February 1901 to be exact when the first tests were carried out which would lead to the inauguration of a tram line which would run between this city and the nearby city of La Laguna, from the dock in Santa Cruz to the church of La Conception in La Laguna, running through La Cuesta, and all in a total of 34 minutes with sixteen stops. Evidently this feat was considered to be a giant step in the development of island transport systems, giving a tremendous boost to the economy of both cities and their metropolitan area, the more so if we take into account that public lighting began in the islands only in 1897. Gradually new lines were opened with the success of the first as occurred in 1904 with the new route from La Laguna to Tacoronte. Despite this, in 1956, the tram definitively ceased to function and the next year it was dismantled.
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grammes, fashion shows to name but a few examples. The exhibition hall, on the Avenida de la Constitution, in Cabo-Llanos (an expanding quarter of Santa Cruz), is divided into three areas: The Great Hall, the Base and the Annexe.
In June 2007, over a century later, the new Tenerife Tram has been inaugurated, its first line being between Santa Cruz and La Laguna, just as it was before. The image of that first tram is now far away, since the modern machines cover the distance in 37 minutes with 21 stops. Two of the most important of these are the stops at the two main hospitals on the island (Residencia Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria and the Canary Islands University Hospital) and at the University of La Laguna.
incorporation of elements such as the “Space Beneath Anaga”, the entry to the city from the port, the “Lake”, a fountain on the square with spaces conceived for a walk, the “Park”, where the plant species are mixed with the volcanic stone and the “Pavilions”, of which the concrete lava folds merge with the horizontal surface which supports them, where there are cafés, kiosks, tourist Information offices, shops and access points to the underground area among many more elements.
The two terminals of the current line are those of the Interchange in Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Avenida de la Trinidad in La Laguna.
A port which is consolidated as a port of call for cruise liners
Nevertheless future extensions are planned with new routes to other districts of both towns or to the south and north of the Island
The new Plaza de España The emblematic Plaza de España in Santa Cruz de Tenerife and its surroundings has been remodelled according to the design of the architects, Herzog and De Meuron, commissioned by the Tenerife Island Authority as a result of an International Competition called by the Port Authority of Tenerife in collaboration with and with the participation of the Santa Cruz de Tenerife Local Authority. The project includes innovation by means of the
The Puerto of Santa Cruz de Tenerife has its origins in the period of the Spanish conquest in 1494, but the humble port of that time which was devastated by a storm in the year 1600 has nothing to do with the modern Infrastructure of the port of the 21st Century. The port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife has always been considered as “a service station in mid-Atlantic”, where boats can victual themselves with water and fuel. This port is currently characterised, among other things, by the specialisation of its berths on each of the four docks, the dangerous goods quay and the anchorage, but
it has achieved great significance in tourism having become consolidated as a port of call for large cruise liners. A good example of this was the stop that the cruise liner, Queen Mary 2, made in the port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, on its maiden voyage in January 2004 and the number of passengers who stop here each year. In the year 2007, two hundred and fifteen cruise ships which brought some 300,000 visitors to the island, mostly from the European Union.
The port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife is located in the bio-geographic area known as Macaronesia to which a number of islands in the Atlantic Ocean belong. “Cruises in the Atlantic” is a cruise route which runs between the Canary Islands and Madeira, which is very popular and offers the passenger the opportunity to get to know different areas and cultures in one small area.
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Queen Mary 2 in Tenerife.
Santa Cruz + Culture A living city. Each corner is a discovery for the senses.
Guimera Theatre.
Museum of Nature and Mankind.
The Tenerife Auditorio “art and culture” Extravert and plural The Tenerife Auditorio is an open and communicative space. A space which shows itself from the inside out, both in its form and in its content, both in its architecture and in the line marked by its cultural programme. A space which aims to connect with all kinds of people, whatever their tastes, concerns, cultural motivations … The purpose? To awaken through the greatest possible variety of scenic arts the deepest emotions and to establish special communication with a diverse audience.
Avant-garde and unique The Auditorio is avant-garde. In its architecture this is more than obvious. But also in the cultural programme we find the most advanced artistic offers, forms of creative expression which look to the future following pathways that are little trodden and which cohabit with others of a more symphonic, classical and traditional nature. This co-existence is one of the great virtues that make the building truly unique. Opera, dance, rock, pop, classical, flamenco, jazz… All the styles can find their place in a diverse programme and with artists
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Auditorio de Tenerife.
of international calibre. Consult our programming and you will see: we have thousands of different ways to make you vibrate. Sales and information: Tel: +34 902 317 327 www.auditoriodetenerife.com Box office: Monday to Friday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Guided visits / By appointment Tel: 922 568 600 Fax: 922 568 602
The complex is located on the edge of the Santos ravine, and near the la Recova market and the church of the Concepción and just beside the Museum of Nature and Mankind. It will also house the “Alejandro Cioranescu Tenerife Library” and the “Tenerife Photography Centre”, a meetings hall, a restaurant, a shop, a public square, numerous offices and a number of storage rooms. Museums and Art Showrooms
TEA Tenerife Art Space
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In Santa Cruz de Tenerife, an architectural complex of some 20,000 square metres is currently being built, which was designed by the Swiss architects, Herzog & De Meuron, and which will house the two display halls of 2,400 square metres devoted to showing the work of different artists of regional, national and international fame from the 20th and 21st Centuries. It is worth making special mention of the space devoted to showing the works of the Tenerife surrealist painter, Oscar Domínguez (La Laguna, Tenerife 1906 – Paris 1957), the originator of the technique of “Decalcomanía”, which consists of “applying black gouache onto paper, which is placed on top of another piece of paper on which a slight pressure is placed. Then they are separated before they dry”.
The municipal museum of Fine Arts
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It presents to its visitors a very wide artistic collection which shows work including both 16th Century Flemish painting and 19th Century paintings. Some of the most notable works are the “Tríptico de Nava y Grimón” by the Flemish painter, Pieter Coecke, “San Andrés”, by José Rivera, “Orfeo” by Bueghel, among others. Among the activities, the guided visits to the museum and to the heritage in the city (the Monuments of Santa Cruz, Squares and Avenues), book presentations, conference seasons and musical performances stand out. C/ José Murphy, 12 Tel.: +34 922 27 47 86 Free of charge. Closed Monday. From Tuesday to Friday, from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
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Opened as a cultural space in 1992, it again put into use the old market building (recova), the work in 1851 of the architect, Manuel Oraá, converted into one of the most emblematic centres in Santa Cruz. The specific structural characteristics of the building, with a covered central courtyard and with a portico, give it a versatility which opens up great possibilities of artistic expression. It houses some twelve exhibitions a year, one of which is the International Comic Exhibition, the only one of its kind in the Canary Islands and which has acquired a well-deserved prestige. In the same building is the Centre for Contemporary Engraving, a centre for teaching and creation of xylography, rotogravure, screen printing and lithography as well as the island of Tenerife Photography Centre.
Plaza de Isla de Madeira, s/n Tel.: +34 922 27 07 70 From Monday to Saturday, from 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Los Lavaderos Art Gallery
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It is located in the old washhouse of the city, which was built in 1839. The building still has the old basins, as well as the structural elements. It houses ten or so exhibitions each year. including painting, sculpture and installations. Address: Calle Carlos Chevilly, 1 Tel.: +34 922 60 64 58 / +34 922 27 15 10 Opening times: from Monday to Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Closed Sundays and bank holidays except during the Fiestas de Mayo when it remains open.
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La Recova Arts Centre
La Recova Arts Centre.
Regional Military Museum
Regional Military Museum.
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This museum, opened in 1988 in the Almeida Barracks, shows the visitor all those objects related with the military history of the Canary Islands. The most interesting piece is, without a doubt, the cannon, El Tigre, which, according to tradition badly injured Admiral Nelson’s arm when he attempted to invade the town (25th July 1797). There are also uniforms and personal possessions of illustrious soldiers on display as well as models of old military buildings. This may be considered to be one of the best places for research into the historical cartography of the Canary Islands.
the conquest of the Canary Islands for the Crown of Castile, Captains General, the events of 25th July 1797, Canarian military artists, famous Canarian soldiers, light arms and overseas. On the ground floor there are collections of heavy guns, measuring and calibrating equipment, communications, cartography, the art and science of sailing, models and a series of pieces devoted to the Air Force. In the central courtyard, there is a collection of cannons from the 20th Century and the “Hercules”, a culverin that was cast in Flanders in the 16th Century, which protected the coasts of Tenerife until the 19th Century.
General content With an area of over 900 square metres for display set out in halls, the museum represents the materialisation of the Military History of the Canary Islands with the island of Tenerife having an important role. The funds are displayed in a garden area outside the fort as well as inside, on two floors, taking advantage of the halls and rooms of a building that is adapted for the use of the handicapped. In the hall upstairs, there are items related with historical events in the Canary Islands. The rooms on the upper floor deal with matters related with flags,
C/ San Isidro,1 (Castillo de Almeida) Santa Cruz de Tenerife Tel.: +34 922 843 500 Fax: +34 922 249 504 Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Entrance free of charge. Source:Official website of the Ministry of Defence. .
Museum of Fine Arts.
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The significant comings and goings of scientists during the 18th and 19th Centuries (Darwin, Humboldt, Verneau, Lyell and Berthelot among others), who found the Islands to be superb laboratories for research into nature and, in particular, into the human species, and the gradual accumulation of private and public collections created the material and intellectual base on which the Tenerife Island Government, in the 1950s, created two of the museums that are most deeply rooted among the people of Tenerife: the Museum of Natural Sciences and the Archaeological Museum of Tenerife. The two museums are now one, together with the Canarian Institute of Bioanthhropology, in an ambitious and modern museum project, the Museum of Nature and Mankind, which puts at the service of the citizens of the island and of its numerous visitors all the contents, collections and knowledge that have been accumulated during decades of research and scientific work, giving a rigorous and pleasant vision of the natural wealth of the Canary Islands and of the pre-Hispanic populations who lived here. It puts on show a critical museography in which the content and interest in information
is formalised with avant-garde design. The fundamental idea around which the entire programme turns is that of interpretation, with a free route through autonomous thematic units. The project is characterised by the combination of traditional methods of explanation with advanced systems of information access, which make it possible for the visitor to ask his own questions about the nature and prehistory of the Canary Islands. The Museum of Nature and Mankind is located in an emblematic building in the capital, the old Civil Hospital, an outstanding example of the neoclassical architecture in the Islands. In the plans for the refurbishment of the building, a balance was sought between the areas devoted to display and those to be used for other purposes, whether cultural or for leisure (documentation centre and library, multi-purpose room, cafeteria, shop, courtyards and gardens, etc.).
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Museum of Nature and Mankind
Museum of Nature and Mankind.
International Exhibition of Sculpture in the Street 1973-74 In 1973, the first International Exhibition of Sculpture in the Street was held in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, with work by famous artists such as Joan Miró and Henry Moore, among others. This exhibition was an Initiative of the Cultural Commission of the Santa Cruz de Tenerife office of the Official College of Technical Architects of the Canary Islands, of which the prestigious Canarian art critic, Eduardo Westerdahl, was a member. The majority of the sculptures were donated to the town by the artists participating in the show and they are now located on the Avenues known as Reyes Católicos, Asuncionistas and Rambla General Franco as well as in García Sanabria Park. Among the sculptures in the above-mentioned avenues in the city, the following are particularly worthy of mention: “La Femme Bouteille” a bronze sculpture by Joan Miró (Barcelona 1893), located in the garden of the Parque Cultural Viera y Clavijo, “Sin Título” by the sculptor, Andrés Alfaro (Valencia, 1929), located on the Avenida de los Asuncionistas, an aluminium structure that has recently been restored, “Ejecutores y Ejecutados” a structure in painted polyester by
Xavier Corberó (Barcelona, 1935), located on Rambla General Franco, just like “The Goslar Warrior” by Henry Moore (Great Britain, 18981986), a bronze structure, among other works of art, some of which are by Canarian artists such as “Lady Tenerife” by Martín Chirino (Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, 1925), located on the square outside the College of Architects in Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Parque García Sanabria was and is also the setting for this open air sculpture exhibition. In the park, it is possible to see works such as “El Monumento al Gato” by the famous Tenerife artist, Oscar Domínguez (La Laguna 1906) made of stone and recyclable materials such as glass, “Estela Espacial” a stainless steel sculpture by Amadeo Gabino (Valencia, 1922), “Solidaridad” by Mark Macken (Belgium, 1913), a sculpture made by joining pieces of concrete with iron chains and “Homenaje a Gaudí” by Eduardo Paolozzi (Great Britain, 1924), examples of the many others that the visitor can find here. The service of attention to visitors of the Santa Cruz de Tenerife Development Agency offers guided routes around the interior of this area (See section 10 of the “Routes through the City” guidebook.
“The Goslar Warrior” by Henry Moore.
“Sin Título” by Andrés Alfaro.
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“Ejecutores y Ejecutados” Xavier Corbero.
Guimera Theatre In 1847, when Santa Cruz de Tenerife began a significant stage of urban development, the first project that was undertaken was the Teatro Guimerá in 1849, to a design by the architect, Manuel de Oraá, and it was decided to build it on the same site as that of the old Convento Santo Domingo. The style is romantic classicist and it was opened in early 1851, although it still lacked certain finishing touches, such as the internal decoration which was carried out in 1888 and other details to bring the building closer to Oraá’s original design. These details were completed in 1908. The theatre has had many different names, “El Teatro”, “Teatro Isabel II”, Teatro Municipal”, “Teatro Principal”, until 1923, the year in which the famous Tenerife dramatist, Ángel Guimerá, died and it was decided to give his name to the theatre in tribute. The most famous performers have appeared at the Teatro Guimerá whether as part of musical companies, orchestras, zarzuelas and ballets, and this was also the home of the Tenerife Symphony Orchestra until the construction of the Auditorio. Teatro Guimerá is located on the Plaza Isla de
Madeira, where the La Recova arts centre and the Municipal School of Graphic Art are also and it is still a major venue for performances of theatre companies, concerts and other similar events, including certain Carnival events such as the Festival de Rondallas. With the passage of time (the building is over 150 years old), the theatre has received the nickname of “La Bombonera”. A life full of difficulties, anecdotes and performances which have made it a unique theatre in the Islands and in Spain.
Address: Plaza de Isla de Madeira, 2 Tel: +34 922 60 69 30
[email protected] Customer services / administration: Tel: +34 922 60 69 23 Box office: Tel: +34 922 53 11 75 Box office telephone sales: Tel: +34 902 36 46 03 Tel concierge: +34 922 53 11 71 Tel porter’s lodge: +34 922 53 12 03
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Guimera Theatre
Santa Cruz +Leisure Carnival, the local fiesta and the leisure of the city. Carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife History
Comparsas.
Fiesta de Magos.
The Carnival of Santa Cruz Tenerife has managed to survive throughout history despite the innumerable prohibitions to which it has been subject. The people of Tenerife have not allowed the powers that be to take away their fiesta and they have fought for it and held it in clandestine fashion. The Carnival has evolved over its more than two-hundred-year history in accordance with the changes that have taken place in Santa Cruz society. At first, the dances and entertainments were organised privately by the wealthy and powerful families of the island and in different organisations of a recreational or social nature, such as: the Yacht Club, the Parque Recreativo and the Círculo de la Amistad XII de Enero. Ordinary people were prohibited from attending the dances and wearing masks to play tricks on the public highway. But the people continued to
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Carnival Queen 2008.
enjoy themselves and to go out onto the street to celebrate a fiesta that is the fruit of total improvisation. With the beginning of the Spanish Civil War in 1936, the Carnival was prohibited and breach of this regulation was punishable with prison; after the end of the war, it began to be celebrated again in the houses of the people of Tenerife. The Carnival, the fiesta of the ordinary people, would continue to be celebrated under camouflage due in large part to the goodwill of the then Bishop Domingo Pérez Cáceres. Without the approval of the highest ecclesiastical authority it would not have been possible for what came to be called the “Fiestas de Invierno” to be held. This name was maintained until the arrival of democracy, in 1976. The people dressed the Carnival itself up in a disguise so that it could continue to live. Currently the different Carnival groups proudly take the name of our city to a range of towns around the world. Throughout the year, the city is preparing its Carnival; the banker and the clerk, the doctor, the housewife, the lawyer or the postman rehearse tirelessly so as to be ready for the “día apoteosis”: the Election of the Carnival Queen. They are, without a doubt, the real leading characters of the Carnival, the ones who with total dedication prepare so that everything is ready. They are the real artists.
The dances, the cavalcades, the exhibitions and competitions have been the clearest expression of our fiesta but, without a doubt, what characterises and distinguishes the Tenerife Carnival are the masks and the costumes, the Carnival in the street. The Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife holds the highest degree of consideration that the ministry of tourism can give to a fiesta in Spain. On 18th January 1980, the Santa Cruz de Tenerife Carnival was declared a Fiesta of International Interest to Tourism by the Secretariat of State for Tourism and is one of the most important carnivals in the world.
Significant events: The Election of the Carnival Queen The Election of the Queen of the Fiestas is an important part of the Carnival on Tenerife. During the show, the candidates parade on a stage that is decorated in the spirit of the theme chosen for the Carnival, dressed in spectacular, airy designs which generally include materials such as feathers and semi-precious stones and which weigh an average of 150-200 kilos, with the result that the costumes are actually on wheels. In turn, the murgas, comparsas and emblematic characters of the festival perform between the presentation of each of the
designs and a panel of judges are responsible for finally choosing the runners-up and the Carnival Queen, who is crowned by the authorities and will parade with the carnival groups at such events as the Cabalgata Anunciadora and the Coso. The importance of this event is such that hundreds of journalists from a range of media cover the event for the rest of Spain and the world, via satellite for Spanish and international channels.
The Cabalgata anunciadora of the fiesta is a gigantic multi-coloured snake, made up of tens of thousands of masks and dozens of musical groups, which spends hours on a route which covers the main streets to show the people standing on the pavements the explosion of ingenuity turning to joy. The Cavalcade opens up the doors of the Carnival. The Coso The Coso is the culmination of the Tenerife Carnival. A kind of second Cavalcade which will amaze any observer in a true avalanche of colour, rhythm and joy. The Coso takes place on the Tuesday of Carnival, Shrove Tuesday, when the groups for the fiesta, the murgas, comparsas, rondallas, Carnival characters, to-
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Cavalcade
gether with the floats bearing the Queen and the Ladies-In-Waiting (as the runners-up are known), in the adult, children’s and senior citizens’ categories, take to the promenade of Santa Cruz de Tenerife from midday onwards for a fabulous cavalcade. Entierro de la Sardina (the Burial of the Sardine) When the Carnival is almost over (because there is still another weekend of Piñata before the people bid farewell to the fiesta for another year), the people of Tenerife say goodbye, weeping with grief. The Entierro de la Sardina is probably the most irreverent and uninhibited manifestation of the entire Carnival. The Entierro de la Sardina announces the end of the libertine fiesta, of the secret couplings and the arrival of Lent, a time for religious and spiritual reflection. At the burial, thousands of widows all dressed in mourning, thousands more widowers disconsolate at the annual death of the carnival, priests, nuns, bishops, cardinals and even popes, drag themselves in a well of tears due to their bidding farewell to a concept of freedom which has reigned in the tolerant city that Santa Cruz is during Carnival time. When the Sardine is in flames, a clamour of grief is released for its loss. The loss of a sardine which symbolises the spirit of the Carnival.
Fiestas de Mayo (The May Fiesta) The city was founded on 3rd May 1494, a historical event which is celebrated every year. In the month of the flowers, Santa Cruz is dressed in local colour and tradition; the streets are garlanded with floral crosses and gastronomy and folklore come together to fill the city with music, aromas and tastes. Currently, the streets and the square of the historical La Concepción district are full of tables on the evening of the 2nd, the eve of the city’s anniversary, around which families and friends dressed in typical costumes meet to try the dishes cooked with local produce and recipes that have been passed from generation to generation. Music enlivens the evening, which goes on until the small hours of the morning with laughter and dancing. This event, which is popularly known as the Baile de Magos, was accepted for the Guinness Book of Records on 2nd May 1999, with the presence of eight thousand people eating and dancing while dressed in traditional costumes in the open air. The exaltation of culture and the historical heritage become clear throughout the month of May when there are also religious processions and pilgrimages; gastronomic and sports competitions as well as exhibitions of livestock and traditional sports, foremost among which are Canarian wrestling and the juego del palo.
The festivity of the Virgen del Carmen, the patron saint of seamen, is also a celebration for this city given its history as a port. Every 16th July, the virgin is put on board a boat and is transported over the waters of the bay together with other garlanded boats. There are also rowing-boat races, jumping from the quay, etc. Christmas Christmas and New Year are the final festive periods for Santa Cruz de Tenerife, which is decorated in December with lights and Christmas motifs, and carols are sung, the most important of which is “Lo Divino”, one of the most traditional Christmas songs. The streets are filled with people who
Fiestas de Mayo.
are looking for the perfect gift and the spirit of Christmas is everywhere from 1st December, the traditional date for switching on the lights and for the opening of the nativity scenes in Plaza de La Candelaria and the Island Authority, which are the original and local markers of Christmas. There are competitions between nativity scenes, flea markets, open-air concerts, such as the one that is held on 25th December on the Explanada del Puerto given by the Tenerife Symphony Orchestra, or the firework displays such as the one that takes place in Plaza de España on the last day of the year, which complete the festive events that reach their culmination on Twelfth Night, when, after the Three Kings are received in the Heliodoro Rodríguez López football stadium, the cavalcade through the streets of the town takes place.
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Santa Cruz + Leisure
Fiestas del Carmen
Daytime Leisure Beaches, Lido, Sports activities, Children’s playgrounds, Recreational areas. Beaches The beaches of Santa Cruz de Tenerife are on the outskirts of town. Las Teresitas beach is the most popular among the people of Santa Cruz. This is a beach for the entire family, which is safe, clean and is provided with services which will very soon be Increased with the project by the French architect, Dominique Perrault, for the development and refurbishment of the area. It is located at a distance of seven kilometres from the centre of the city in the direction of San Andrés along the Tf-11 road. Barranco de Tabares.
Parque Marítimo César Manrique (Lido).
Beyond Las Teresitas, the coastal road continues in the direction of Igueste, perched high up on the cliffs and with breathtaking views such as that from the Mirador de la Punta de los Órganos. Two kilometres further on, there is track off to the right, leading to the beach of Las Gaviotas.
Santa Cruz + Leisure
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Las Teresitas beach and Village of San Andrés.
Las Teresitas Beach (Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Anaga) This is the best-known of Santa Cruz’s beaches. It is at a distance of seven kilometres from the centre of town. It is about a kilometres and a half long and is covered with fine, golden sand. It is protected from the currents and waves by a breakwater, with the result that it is ideal for children. It has all kinds of equipment and a large number of restaurants and cafés. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS LENGTH OF BEACH: 1300 metres AVERAGE WIDTH: 80 metres DEGREE OF OCCUPATION: Average DEGREE OF URBANIZATION: Isolated PROMENADE: No TYPE OF BEACH COMPOSITION: Sand TYPE OF SAND: Golden CONDITIONS FOR BATHING: Calm ANCHORAGE: Yes NUDIST: No ENVIRONMENTAL ASPECTS PRESENCE OF VEGETATION: Yes PROTECTED AREA: No BLUE FLAG: No SAFETY SECURITY: Yes INDICATION OF DANGER: Yes LOCAL POLICE: Yes RED CROSS POSITION: Yes Telephone 922 54 94 45 LIFEGUARDS: Yes NEAREST HOSPITAL NAME: Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria ADDRESS: Carretera el Rosario s/n (S/C de Tenerife) TELEPHONE: 922 60 20 00 APPROXIMATE DISTANCE FROM BEACH: 15 Km.
ACCESS ACCESS TYPE: Easily on foot/ By boat INDICATION OF ACCESS: Yes ACCESS FOR DISABLED: Yes TRANSPORT BUS: Urban PARKING: Yes Number of Spaces>100 SERVICES TOILETS: Yes SHOWERS: Yes TELEPHONE: Yes WASTE-PAPER BASKETS: Yes CLEANING SERVICE: Yes ACCESS RAMPS: Yes SUNSHADE HIRE: No SUN-LOUNGER HIRE: Yes BOAT HIRE: Yes BEACH BARS: No SAILING CLUB: No DIVING AREA: No MARINA: Sailing club / Distance: 2.8 km.
Playa de Las Gaviotas (Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Anaga) At the foot of a mountain, this black-sand beach is located very close to the city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. On occasion, the sea conditions in this area are unpleasant with the result that it is advisable to be careful.
TYPE OF BEACH COMPOSITION: Sand TYPE OF SAND: Dark CONDITIONS FOR BATHING: Moderate waves ANCHORAGE: No NUDIST: Yes ENVIRONMENTAL ASPECTS PRESENCE VEGETATION: No PROTECTED AREA: No BLUE FLAG: No SAFETY SECURITY: No INDICATION OF DANGER: No LOCAL POLICE: No RED CROSS POSITION: No LIFEGUARDS: No NEAREST HOSPITAL NAME: Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria ADDRESS: Carretera el Rosario s/n (S/C. de Tenerife) TELEPHONE: 922 60 20 00 APPROXIMATE DISTANCE FROM BEACH: 18 km.
ACCESS ACCESS TYPE: By car INDICATION OF ACCESS: No ACCESS FOR DISABLED: No
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NEAREST ROAD OR HIGHWAY: TF-121 BUS: Long-distance (Bus route 245) PARKING: Yes Number of Spaces
