The Rocky Mountains

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A GOLDEN GUIDE®

GARDEN OF GODS COLORADO

GOLDEN NATURE GUIDES BIRDS

WEEDS

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INSECT PESTS STARS

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FLOWERS

TREES

MAMMALS

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TROPICAL FISH

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INSECTS

SPIDERS

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SEASHORES

GAMEBIRDS

SEASHELLS OF THE WORLD

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POND LIFE

CATS

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FISHES

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ORCHIDS

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CACTI

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FOSSILS

ZOO ANIMALS

ROCKS AND MINERALS

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BUTTERFLIES AND MOTHS

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REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS

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EXOTIC PLANTS

NON-FLOWERING PLANTS

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GOLDEN SCIENCE GUIDES FLYING HEART

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LANDFORMS

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GEOLOGY

FAMILIES OF BIRDS

ECOLOGY

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ZOOLOGY

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LIGHT AND COLOR

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OCEANOGRAPHY

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EVOLUTION

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BOTANY WEATHER

INDIAN ARTS

GOLDEN FIELD GUIDES BIRDS OF NORTH AMERICA

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SEASHELLS OF NORTH AMERICA

TREES OF NORTH AMERICA

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MINERALS OF THE WORLD

NATIONAL PARKS OF THE WORLD

GOLDEN REGIONAL GUIDE THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS

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KITES

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CAMPING

CASINO GAMES

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SCUBA DIVING

PHOTOGRAPHY

GOLDEN LEISURE LIBRARY WINES HORSES

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SAILING

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BICYCLING

GUNS •

FISHING

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THE

RocKY MouNTAINS by HERBERT S. ZIM, Ph.D., Sc.D. in consultation with the UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO MUSEUM STAFF Boulder, Colorado

ILLUSTRATIONS BY

SU ZAN NOGUCHI SWAIN

GOLDEN PRESS

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NEW,YORK

Western Publishing Company, Inc. Racine, Wisconsin

This Golden Guide attempts to introduce and explore a widely known region-big, varied, and open enough to tempt a multitude of visitors, many of whom stay to swell the fast-growing population. The high, cool moun­ tains have a long and involved geologic history and a wealth of rocks, ores, and minerals. The climate they help create belies the summer heat and produces a richness and a variety of plant and animal life which all may enj oy. Without the expert knowledge of Hugo Rodeck and his staff the selection and checking of data would have been difficult if not impossible. Richard Beidleman of Colorado College also made his wide field experience available. May I thank Gordon Alexander, William C. Bradley, John B. Chronic, Don Eff, Gladys R. Gary, Russell M. Honea, Edna Johnson, Albert Knorr, Urless N. Lanham, T. Paul Maslin, Clarence J. McCoy, John Rohner, Orner Stewart, Lowell E. Swenson, William A. Weber and Joe Ben Wheat of the University of Colorado Museum; also Robert P. Allen, H. Raymond Gregg, Arnold B. Grobman, Donald F.

Hoffmeister, and Alexander Sprunt IV. Thanks go, also, to

the artist, Su Zan Noguchi Swain, to Sonia Bleeker Zim for her work on the Indian tribes, and to all those who provided photographs.

H. S. Z

©Copyright 1964 by Western Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved including rights of reproduction and use in any form or by any means, in� eluding the making of copies by any photo process, or by any electronic or mechanical device, printed or written or oral, or recording for sound or visual reproduction or for use in any knowledge retrieval system or device, un­ less permission in writing is obtained from the copyright proprietor. Produced in the U.S.A. by Western Publishing Company, Inc. Published by Golden Press, New York, N.Y. library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 64-11054.

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H E R E ARE T H E ROCKIES .... . ...... .

An i ntrod u ction to the great mou nta i n system that forms the backbone of North America. Cli mate; more information. ROCKY M O U NTAI N S TODAY ............... :...

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T h e o l d a n d new cities, t h e i r attract i o n s . Tou rs and touring; calendar of events. THE GOOD OLD DAYS......................

I nd i a n tribes of the mountains and adjacent plains; the Spa n i s h explorers and the French trap·

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pers. Lewis and C l a r k and the o p e n i n g of t h e re · gion; m i n i ng, settlement and ra i l roa d s . THE G EOLOG I C STORY.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The anci ent l a n d s that were u p l i fted and a ltered

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to b u i l d the R o c k i e s ; the deposits of roc k s and m i nerals and the u n u s u a l fossils. R O C K Y M O U NTAI N PLANTS...................

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The r i c h vari ety of plants from the p l a i n s to the m o u n t a i n tops. Fl owers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Trees

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ANIMAL LIFE OF THE ROCKI ES

The r i c h and d i versified a n i m a l life with species now becoming rare. 87 Mammals . B i rd s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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F i s h e s . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . .

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A m p h i bi a n s , Reptiles

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I nsects .

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W HAT TO SEE A N D DO ................. .

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N .ational Parks, Monuments and Forests; state p a r k s , m u s e u m s , c a m p i n g , sports a n d other outdoor activities . I N DEX ........... . ......... . ........... . .... 157

this book is an arbitrary area of some

400, 000 square miles, encompass­

ing the core of the Rockies. Its 2 , 200-

mile length includes parts of 5 states

The Rocky Mounta i n s form a 5,000- m i l e jagged back­ bone for N o rth America from Mexico to A l a s ka . More t h a n a h u n d red nort h -south ra nges m a ke u p this m o u n ta i n co m p l ex wh i c h rea c h e s its grea test width (300 m i l es) in Colorado and Uta h . Colorado a lone boa sts of 54 peaks ove r 1 4,000 ft h i g h . Mt. El bert in /"i C o l orado rea c h es u p to 1 4,4 1 9 feet but / / t h i s fa l l s far short of Alaska's Mt. M c Ki n l ey,_ 20,32 ft •

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T h e Roc k i e s a re n ot a l l m o u n ta i n o u s . Between a nd a r o u n d t h e s n ow-ca p pe d r a n ges a n d c o n i fer-covered s l opes a r e n a t u r a l p a r kl a n d s, exte n s i ve p l atea u s, brush· covered f l ats a n d sem i - a ri d deserts. H uge ra nches a nd fa r m l a n d s h u g t h e mounta i n s w h e re l a n d h a s been clea red a n d water made ava i l a b l e . At f i rst a gri m b a r r i e r to conti n e nt a l co n q u e st, the Roc k i e s g ra d u a l ly bega n to attract settl ers beca u se of f u rs, m i n e r a l s, forests a n d agri c u lt u r a l l a nd fo u n d there. Later, people came beca use of the sti m u l a t i n g c l i m ate a n d s u pe r b scenery. T h e Roc ky M o u n ta i n reg i o n, sti l l front i e r cou ntry at the t u rn o f t h e centu ry, i s n o w boom· i n g in p o p u l ation, i n d u st ri a l d evel o p m ent a n d c u l t u ral growt h . Vacationers and new resi dents joi n t h e o l d -ti mers in e n j oy i n g the f reedom and exh i l a ra t i o n " o u t w h e re the West begi n s . "

U pturned edges o f sandstone layers have eroded into u n u s u a l s h a pes; near C o l o rado Sprin gs, Colorad o Simpkins-National Audubon Society

Bob and lro Spring

Hereford cattle pasture at the foot of the Sawto oth Mountains near Stanley, . Idaho

The great Rocky Mou nta i n system is often d i vided i nto a n o r t h e r n a n d a sout h e r n pa rt, w h i c h a r e sepa rated by broken pl atea u s exten d i n g f rom the Wyo m i n g Basi n to the Sna ke R i ver Pl a i n . The N o rt h ern Rockies beg i n north a nd west of Ye l l owsto n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k a n d exte n d on n o rth· westwa rd i nto Canada and A l a s ka . T h e S o u t h e r n Rocki es a re m a i n l y long, u p l i fted ridges wh ich, i n risi ng, h ave u pt u r ned l ayers of sedi ments on either s i d e . I n the north the Rockies a re more massive a n d d o n ot f o r m r i dges w i t h u pt u r n e d footh i l l s . I n both a reas t h e Rockies form the Continenta l Divide, where the s l opes turn ra i n a n d melting snow i nto e i t h e r t h e Atl a ntic o r the Pacific d r a i n age. The D i vi d e and most R oc ky ra nges are crossed by m o u nta i n pa sses (t h e l owest u s a b l e paths 7

a c ross t h e mounta i n s), th rough w h i c h road s a n d ra i l roads f u n n e l at e l evati o n s betwee n 7 , 500 a n d· 1 2 , 0 00 ft. The d i scovery of South Pass in 1 8 1 2 and ot h e rs afterwa rd h a stened t h e o p e n i n g of t h e West. C o l o r a d o h a s 1 36 n a med pa sses, a nd the tota l n u mber for the Rockies may a p p roach 500. In general, m o u nta i n soi l is poor a n d rocky but in the n a t u r a l basi n s or parks a re rich grassl a n d s . On the f l a n ks of t h e Ro c k i e s - espec i a l l y to t h e east a n d i n river va l l eys -the so i l i s good and, with i rrigation, prod uces f i ne crops. I r r i ga t i o n m e a n s t h a t corn, a l f a lfa, m e l o n s, s u g a r beets a n d t r u c k crops c a n be ra i sed . W i t h o u t i r rigati o n, d ry fa r m i n g m a y prod uce sorgh u m, w h eat, c o r n or e n o ugh grass for past u re . W h at used to be open ra nge is now fenced a n d i m p roved for catt l e . S h e e p ma ke t h e most of th i n ner m o u ntai n past u res. The water of mounta i n strea ms a n d l a kes i s carried by i n gen i o u s t u n ne l s a n d d i tches to s u pply powe r a n d i rri ga­ tion need s . Other natural reso u rces of the Rockies i ncl ude great forests of pine, spruce and _f i r with some h a rdwoods at l ower l evel s . The geologic activity t h a t fo l l owed the u p­ l ift of t h e m o u nta i n s h o n eyco m bed t h e co u n try roc k with veins rich in lead, zinc, s i l ver, gol d and copper. Petrole um has been d i scovered i n the Wyo m i n g basir-4 ft.), a low evergreen s hru b of moist open wood s. T h e leaves a re leathery a n d sl ightly toot h e d , with very s h o rt stems; grow opposite on sprawling branches.

R ED-OS I ER DOGWOOD (4-8 ft.) bears f l a t - t o p p e d c l u sters of s m a l l w h ite blossoms w h i c h mature into whitish fruits. Often forms t h i c kets; d a r k red branches conspicuous in wi nter. Vari· eties with yellow bark a re c u lti vated .

B I TT ER BR U S H , o r Antelope B rush ( 2 - 8 ft . ) , i s a browse plant of deer and antelope. A tou g h , widely branched shrub with pale yel low blossoms. Leaves are th ree-pronged, green a bove a n d white u n d erneat h .

a n d ova l , and may be sl ightly h a i ry.

SERVI CEBERRY ( 2 - 6 f t . ) forms dense t h i c kets. Its flowers, white with 5 long, na rrow peta l s , bloom in late spring. Its pu rplish-black berries were a n i m porta nt food of Blac kfoot I ndians.

SAGEBR U S H , i n many varieties, grows from 1 - 1 2 ft. in southern and central Rockies. Foliage s i lvery gray; three· pronged l eaves are very a ro matic. These common shrubs prefer deep, a l ka l i -free soi l s .

T H I M B L E B ERRY ( 3 - 8 ft.) h a s a flat· ten � d r a s p berry- l i k e f r u i t eaten by birds and other w i l d l ife. Its del icate w h i te flowers measure two i n ches across. T h i s c o m m o n s h r u b i s not thorny.

S N O W B ERRY ( 2 - 5 ft.), n a m ed for its large w h i t e b e r r i e s , is eaten by deer and b i r d s . The flowers a r e p i n k and h a i ry i n s i d e . Leaves are variable, thin

R E D B E R R I E D ELDER ( 1 -3 ft.) A s p r a w l i n g s h r u b with weak, pithy stems and opposite, compound leaves. It b e a r s l a rge c l u sters of s m a l l , wh ite flowers. Has scarlet berries in fa l l .

O R EGON HOLLYGRAPE ( 'h - 1 ft.) has hol l y· l i ke leaves that turn deep red i n fal l . T h e f l o w e r s are y e l l o w , i n dense cl u sters. B e r r i e s a re b l u e and make

W H O RTLEB E R R I ES are s h r u b s with s m a l l p i n k o r w h i t e nodd i n g fl owers. All h ave toot h ed leaves. The dwarf f o r m ( B room H u c kl e berry) h a s red berries; the berries of a t a l l e r s pecies ( 1 -3 ft.) a re black.

B E A R B E R R Y ( 'h - 1 ft.) i s a prostrate evergreen s h r u b w h i c h often ca rpets t h e forest and p ioneers on rocky slopes a n d new b u r n s . Leaves are browsed by deer; red berries are a preferred food of grouse.

fine jelly. Prefers roc ky g u l c h e s .

Lic h ens growing on a rock

Herbert S. Zim

N O N - FLOWE R I N G PLA NTS range from m i n ute bacteria to g reat con ifers . U s u a l l y we thi n k of the term a s a pplying to fern s a n d thei r k i n - mosses, l iverworts , l i chen s , fungi and a lgae. All occ u r in the Rockies, and while most a re neither l a rge n o r co n s p i c u o u s , they a re very co m m o n . About 25 ferns a n d a d ozen fern a l l ies can eas i l y be fou n d . With d i l igence the i n terested a m ate u r can i dentify scores of m u shroo m s , l i chen s a n d mosses. I ll u strated a re j ust a few of the most commonly seen ferns, mosses a n d l i chens of the Rockies. BR ITTLE FER N ('h - 1 ft . ) t a k e s its n a m e from its t h i n , fragi l e stem. G rows from creeping b l a c k rootstock in veri moist, shady a reas. Very com· mon i n Rocky Mou nta i n N ational Park; less so i n Glacier.

W ESTER N BR A C K E N ( 1 - 5 ft.) i s a stout, coarse fern with tough leathery fronds, often 6 ft. long. Some western I n d i a n s used young s h oots a s food. G rows i n sandy o r acid s o i l s i n a l l temperate regions.

spore-bearing shoot

sterile sh

del

Parsley Fern (6- 1 2 i n . ) , h a s two k i n d s o f fron d s - leafy a n d s p o re- b e a r i n g . G rows on rocks a n d c l i H s , u s u a l l y in t i g h t c l u mps. Found from the Rockies to the Pacific.

S P I K E M OSS, or Little C l u b Moss, is a sl ender b r a n c h i n g moss- l i k e plant re· lated to ferns. Spores borne in axils of s m a l l l eaves. Fo u n d on d ry ba rren ground near roc ks.

L I C H E N S are pri mitive p l a n t s com· posed of a food -producing a lga and a s u pporting f u n g u s . They pioneer i n s o i l formati o n . Some a r e deer food ; some sou rces of tannin and dyes.

H A I RYCAP M OSS, a wi ry-stemmed moss of d ry, s u n n y soil or rocks, grows 3 - 5 i n . high . The four-a ngled capsule sheds spores when ripe. Leaf margins fold back to the center.

d etai l o l eaf

H a i rycap Mo s s

i n . ) a l p i n e rodent restricted to north­ ern Rockies. Gray with black-and-wh ite face. C o m p a r e with more common Ye llow-be l l ied Marmot, p . 9 1 .

A N I M A L LI F E O F THE ROC K I ES A centu ry ago wea l thy E u ropea n s portsmen ca me to the Rockies to h u n t the fa med grizzly a n c;! othe r bea rs, deer, elk, moose, mo u n ta i n l i ons and mounta i n sheep. S u ch big ga me sti l l roa m the pa r ks a n d m o u nta i n s . U n der a wise a n d strict conse rvati on pol icy thei r n u m bers a re i nc reas­ i ng, a n d big ga me hunting is sti l l i m porta nt. However, the a verage v i s itor i s more l i kely to get h i s thri l l from the b i rd s a n d s m a l ler m a m m a l s tha n from a n occasional g l i m pse of a l a rge bea st. Here a re the most common spe­ c ies of the Rockies. Remember, a l l w i l d l i fe i s protected in N a t i o n a l Pa rks a n d i n National M o n u ments. Try h u nting with a ca mera . If you prefer a gun or fi shi n g rod , c heck state a n d loca l l aws and reg u l at i o n s .

For more information about mam mals, read: B u rt & Grosse n h e i d e r , A F I E L D G U I D E TO T H E M A M M A LS, H o u g h ton M ifflin, Boston, 1952 Palmer, R a l p h S . , THE MAMMAL G U I DE, Doubleday, N . Y., 1 9 54 Rodeck, H. G . , G U I D E TO T H E M A M M A L S O F C O L O R A D O , U n i v . of Colorado Museu m , Boulder, Colo., 1 95 2 Z i m and Hoffmeister, M A M MALS, G o l d e n P r e s s , N . Y. , 1 9 5 5

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MAM MALS OF ALPI N E H EIG HTS

M O U NTAI N S H E E P, or B i g h orns (45 'h ft.), a re e l u si v e . Grayi s h - b rown with creamy-wh ite rump and massive, b a c k w a r d - c u r v i n g h o r n s , they p refer grassy m o u n t a i n areas. Females give b i rt h to one l a m b born i n spring.

M O U NTA I N G OAT ( 5 'h ft . ) looks like a n a l l - wh ite goat, b u t i s more c l osely related t o a n t e l o p e . Lives a m o n g a l ­ p i n e cliffs. C o l o r b l e n d s w e l l with sn ow-covered rocks. Male and fema l e look a l i k e .

PI KA, or Cony (8 in.), lives i n ti mber­ l i n e rock slides. Pikas -a re gray- brown, rabbit - l i k e , with s m a l l , rou n d ears and n o a p p a rent ta i l s. They gather, dry, a nd store grass for winter food.

NORTH E R N POCKET GOPHER ( 1 0 in.), a grayi s h - brown rodent of mt. mead­ ows, lives u n d e rgro u n d and b u rrows for fleshy roots. Piles of d i rt mark the t u n n e l entrances. Does not h i bernate.

MAM MALS OF FORESTS AND H I G H SLOPES

B LACK B EA R (300 l b . ) is b l a c k or c i n n a m o n with a brown face. Lacks s h o u l d e r h u m p of grizzly. Most com· man and widely d i st r i b u ted bear, it is seen n e a r c a m p s a n d roads. Eats a l · m o s t everyt h i n g .

G RIZZLY B EAR, weighing up to 1 ,000 lb. and al most 7 ft. long, i s the l a rgest m o u nt a i n c a r n i vo r e . Its y e l l o w i s h , w h i te-ti pped h a i r s give i t a grizzled a p pearance. Feeds o n game, fruits, a n d berri"es.

M A R T E N ( 2 5 i n . ) , a f o r e s t c a r n i vore, has l o n g , s l e n d e r body, s h o rt legs, b ro w n , b u s h y t a i l and soft, dense, f u r . Wt. 2-4 lb. Does not h i bernate. Feeds on rodents, birds a n d eggs.

M I N K (25 i n . ) h u nts f i s h , frogs, cray. f i s h , b i r d s , a n d s m a l l m a m m a l s . An active carn ivore s i m i l a r to the weasel ; a lways lives n e a r water. Note i t s wh ite c h i n patc h . 4 - 1 0 young.

L O N G-TA I L E D WEASEL ( 1 5 - 2 0 i n . , 3 - 8 oz.), i s a widespread h u nter of rodents and s m a l l birds; cha nges from to white in winter and is then

RIVER OTTE R (4-5 ft. ) , h u nted for its b e a u t i f u l t h i c k f u r , is a n excellent web-footed swi mmer. Eats fish, frogs, s m a l l m a m m a l s . Rich brown above, si lvery below. Ma kes its den i n bur­ rows or t hic kets.

and stea l t h y , the bobcat h u nts by day a s well a s at night. I t preys o n s m a l l rodents and birds, rarely on l a rger a n i ma l s . T h e bobcat prefers rocky thickets .and dens in caves or hol low trees. Its color ranges from brown to gray, spotted with black.

R E D FOX ( 3 5 - 4 0 i n . ) has three color p h a s e s - black, r e d , and c r o s s . U s u a l l y red­ d i sh-yel low with black " stock­ ings" and wh ite-tipped bushy ta i l . Lives i n h o l l ow logs and b u rrows; eats rodents, occa­ sionally f r u i t .

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GOLDEN MANTLED G R O U N D SQU I R­ R E L ( 1 0 i n . ) is s i m i l a r to Ea stern C h i p m u n k but lacks head stripes. Has coppery head, white body stri pes bor­ d e red with b l a c k . A c o m m o n camp

visitor i n t h e Rockies.

R I C HA R D S O N ' S G R O U N D S Q U I RREL ( 1 1 i n . ) i s s m o ky-gray with a l ight· bordered ta i l . Often c a l l e d Pic ket·Pin from habit of sitting u p straight. May -�V.� h i bernate from 8 to 9 m o n t h s in the n o rth or i n d ry areas.

Y ELLOW- BELLIED MARMOT (23 in.) i s a yellowi s h , h eavy-bod ied rodent that l i ves in b u r rows or under rocks. Feeds on p l a nts o n rocky h i l l s i d e s i n the southern Rockies.

IP.�:::.:_...�;;.,�-.- M OUNTAI N L I O N , or P u m a (80-200

l b . , 6-8 ft.), i s a la rge, long·tailed, t aw ny cat t h a t preys o n d e e r and other l a rge m a m m a l s . Ra nges widely b u t i s seldom seen. Two s potted young are born each yea r.

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il l s o called P a c k o r Trade Rat, stea l s s m a l l objects; may l e a v e o t h e r s i n ex­ c h a nge. B u i l d s l a rge sti c k nests in rocky crevi c e s , m i n e t u n n e l s and under c a b i n s .

P I N E SQU I R R EL, or C h i cka ree ( l 3 in.), u s u a l ly n e sts h i g h i n spruce or fir. Ye l l o w i s h - red i n s u m mer; grayer i n wi nter. F e e d s o n s e e d s , n u t s a n d fungi. I t i s noisy and a n ag ile cli mber.

B EAVER (3 ft.) has fur so v a l u able that it led to e x ploration of this region. B u i l d s h o u ses and d a m s of mud and sticks. Swi m s with webbed hind feet

MULE DEER (6 ft . , 1 50-300 l b . ) i n ­ open forests. I t i s reddish­ brown i n s u m mer, grayer i n wi nter. Has a m u l e - l i k e tail and l a rge ears. H u nted by coyote , bea r , puma and man. Female s m a l ler; lacks a ntlers.

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D E ER M O U S E (7 i n . ) is a big-eared, wh ite-bel l i ed rodent found nearly every· w h ere. Noct u r n a l in habit, it feeds on anything edible; a lso stores seeds and fruits for winter. I t i s often seen around camps.

S N O W S H O E H AR E ( 1 8 i n . , 2-4 lb.) is a short-eared , common mounta i n rab· bit. La rge " s nowshoe" h i n d feet pe .­ m i t it to r u n over soft s n o w . Cotton· ta i l s are also plentiful i n the Rockies.

POR C U P I N E ( 2 5 - 3 0 i n . , 1 0 -28 lb.) i s a s h o rt - l egged , c l u msy rodent cov· ered with ba rbed q u i l l s which are loose but cannot be t h rown. It is a slow, cau· tious c l i m ber; feeds on bark and espec i a l l y of p o p l a r .

grazes o n m a n y p l a nt s . S p e n d s win· ters i n va l l eys, s u m mer i n mountains. Antlers a r e shed i n M a r c h . Female i s s m a l l e r ; d o e s n o t have a ntlers. One calf i s born i n the spring.

M A M M ALS OF VALLEYS A N D FOOTH I LLS

STRIPED SKU N K (24 i n . , 4-8 l b . ) lives in b u rrows, rocky crevi c e s , o r u nder logs and b u i l d i ngs. Eats i n sects, mice, f r u i t and c a r r i o n . Spotted S k u n k of southern Rockies i s smaller.

B A D G E R ( 2 5 in., 1 0 - 2 0 l b . ) i s heavy­ b o d i e d a n d s h o rt - l egge d . A powerful d i gger, it h u n ts rodents i n t h e i r b u r­ rows; a l s o eats b i rds, eggs, reptiles and i n sects. May m o u n d d i rt at b u r­ row entrances. W H I T E-TA I L E D JACK RABBIT (24 in.) ranges from prairies to ti mberline. Prefers open country; relies on speed for p rotect i o n . Leaps 1 5 -20 ft. Is brown ish i n s u m mer, whitish in winter.

1 3 -LI N E D G R O U N D S Q U I R R E L ( 1 0 i n . ) e a t s seed s , p l a n t s , i n sects, grubs a n d w o r m s . S h y and q u i c k , it h i ber· nates i n wi nter. H a s beaded, brown ish stripes on sides a n d back.

W H ITE-TA I L E D PRAI R I E DOG ( 1 3 i n . ) i s a r o d e n t of m o u n t a i n g r a s s l a nds; l i v e s i n "t ow n s " o r col o n i e s . Stands g u a rd on m o u n d s , utte r i n g a high­ pitched bark when a l a r m e d .

T U FT-EA R E D S Q U I R R E L ( 2 0 i n . ) i s a p i n e forest dweller. Its ears a re tufted except in late s u m me r . I t v a r i es i n c o l o r ; i s oft e n g r a y a bove a n d white below but may be a l l black.

LEAST C H I P M U N K (7 i n . ) is the smal l ­ est c h i p m u n k i n Roc kies. When ala rmed it r u n s with t a i l u p ri g h t . Lives in b u r­ rows u n d e r st u m p s or roc k s ; stores seeds, nuts, and fruits for winter.

COYOTE ( 3 v, ft. ) is a s m a l l e r relative of the wolf; h o l d s its tail down when r u n n i n g . I t eats rodents and other small a n i m a l s , grasshoppers and fruit. I t s ofte n - heard y a p p ing i s d i sti nctive.

PRONGHORN ( 5 ft . , 90- 1 3 0 l b.), o u r fa stest m a m m a l , i s a u n i q u e American species and i s not a n a ntelope. Ta n , with wh ite u nder a n d on r u m p . I t eats s h r u bs and g ras s on open ra nges; s heds horn covers yea rly.

MOOSE (700 - 1 300 l b .), the la rgest of the deer f a m i l y , l i ve s in swa m py val­ l eys and a l o n g strea m s . Eats aq uatic p l a nt s , s h r u b s and bark. M a l e s have l a rge, broa d , fl attened antlers.

o.lli� IISO•N, or B uffa lo ( 1 2 ft. ) , once roamed

the Plains in m i l l ions. S l a u ghtered for meat and h i d e s , o n l y r i g i d con serva­ tion p reserved the species. S h o u lder height is 6 ft.; weight u p to 1 ton .

TRUM PETER SWAN (65 in.) breeds on a few Rocky Mountain lakes. It was o n c e n e a r exti nct i o n , but now has a population of about 1 , 500 birds.

WHITE PELICAN (55-70 i n . ) has black primaries a n d a y e llow t h roat pouch. Soars gracef u l l y ; does not d i v e for food . N ests on i n l a n d l a kes.

B I R DS OF T H E R OC K I ES With a range o f elevation exceeding 1 0 , 000 feet , there i s a correspo n d i n g va riation i n b i rd pop u l at i o n . Along the f ront ranges of the Rockies, ea stern species a re common. Here is part of the central flyway a l ong w h i c h many water­ fowl s pecies mi grate north from Mexico a n d Central Amer i c a . Movi ng up the foot h i l l s t h ro u g h the forests a nd a l p i ne mea dows bri ngs ma rked c h a nges i n b i rd l i fe. The sea sons prod u ce more c h a nges. I n w i n ter, a l p i ne a nd northern species move southwa rd and down the mou n­ ta i n s . The local envi ronment a l so exerts a n i nf l uence. Some birds prefer l akes and streams; others, open wood s; a nd a few species prefer the co l d of mounta i n heights. F o r more about birds o f t h e Rockies, read :

N iedrach and Rockwe l l , B I R DS OF DENVER A N D MOUNTA I N P A R K S , C o l o . M u s . Nat. H i st . , Denver, Colo. , 1 939 Packard , F. M., B I R DS OF ROCKY MT. NAT. PAR K , Rocky Mt. Nature Assn . , Estes Park, Col o . , 1 950 Peterson, R . T., F I E L D G U I DE TO WEST E R N B I RDS, Houghton, Boston, 1 96 1 Pettingi l l , 0 . S . , A G U I DE T O B I R D F I N D I NG WEST OF T H E M I SSISSI P P I , Oxford Univ. Press, N . Y. , 1 953 Robbins, B r u u n , Zim and Si nger, B I R DS OF NORTH A M E R I CA, Golden Press, New York, 1 966. Z i m and Gabrielson, B I R DS, Golden Press, New York, 1 956

97

BI RDS OF ALPI N E H EIG HTS

winter plumage

W H ITE-TAI L E D PTA R M I G A N ( 1 2 - 1 3 i n . ) i s a s m a l l grouse t h a t remains a bove t i m be r l i n e except i n wi nter. S u m me r p l u mage brown i s h ; wh ite in wi nter. B u i l d s nest on the ground be· side boulders.

HORNED LA R K (7-8 in.) has a con· s p i c u o u s yellow- a n d - b l a ck face pat· t e r n . In f l i g h t , l i ght brea st contrasts with its black t a i l . " Horns" are raised o n l y d u r ing c o u rts h i p . Lays 3-4 eggs in a ground nest.

B R OWN-CAPPED ROSY FI N C H (6 i n . ) lives a bove t i m b e r l i n e i n southern Rockies; wi nters in val leys. Eats insects and seed s. Gray-crowned Rosy Finch is common i n the northern Rockies.

WATER PIPIT ( 6 - 7 i n . ) nests a bove ti m b e r l i n e ; h u nts for i n sects a round r.iill�.... m e l t i n g s n o w ba n k s . B o b s ta i l con· stantly. In mating season, male si.ngs w h i l e soa ring.

98

B I RDS OF FORESTS AND H I G H SLOPES

W I L LIAMSON'S SAPSUCKER (91h i n . ) h u nts c o m m o n l y i n p i n e woods for tree i n sects. The stri ped female differs so s h a r p l y from the m a l e , i t was for­ merly considered a sepa rate species. N ests i n holes of trees.

B L U E G R O U S E ( 1 8 - 2 1 i n . ) i s dark b l u i s h - gray a bove, s l a te-gray below. Female i s smaller and more brown ish. Courting male utters hol low " hooting" so u n d . One race lacks white across end of ta i l . W E S T E R N FLYCATC H E R ( 8 - 9 i n . ) i s o l i ve-brown w i t h l i g h t-yel low u nder· p a r t s , w h i te wing bars and eye ring. Catches i n sects on the wing in forests a n d c l e a r i n g s . B u i l d s moss n est in rocks or trees.

GRAY JAY ( 1 1 - 1 3 in.) has white crown and da rk-gray col l a r . Lives i n high for· ests and is seldom seen f l y i n g in the open. Gray J a ys, c o m m o n l y seen around ca m p s , a re c a l l e d " Ca m p Robbers" or "W h i s key-J a c k s . "

99

T O W N S E N D ' S SOLITAI R E (9 i n . ) , a s o l i t a ry t h r u s h w i t h a warbl ing song, i s slate-gray with white eye ring, l i ght wing bars and w h ite outer tail feath e rs. B reeds th roughout the Rockies.

C L A R K ' S N UTCRAC K E R ( 1 2 - 1 3 i n . ) i s common i n h ig h m e a d o w s i n s u m · mer. I t h a s a g r a y body with white patc h e s on w i n g and t a i l , a n d a loud, hars h ca l l . I t will enter camps for food.

M O U N TA I N C H I C K A D E E ( 5 112 in.) h u nts i nsects i n bark of trees. I t has a b l a c k c a p and th roat and white eye s t r i p e . T h e B l a c k Capped C h i c kadee lacks w h i te over the eye.

( 7 i n . ) is a b rown· backed b i rd with red d i s h t a i l , slender b i l l and s potted breast. Feeds o n in· sects. H a s . a c l e a r , f l ute- l i ke song. Note slow, freq uent raising of the ta i l .

K I L L D E E R (9 - 1 1 i n . ) i s a n i n land plover of mountain meadows and lake shores. Common i n the West, espe· c i a l l y i n s u m mer. Note white-bordered , red d is h ta i l and two black breast bands.

1 00

R U BY-C R O W N E D K I N G LET (4 i n . ) i s a tiny, olive-gray b i rd with i nconspicu­ o u s red crown, pale wing bars and w h ite eye - r i n g . Feeds on i n sects. B u i l d s h a n g i n g nest of b a r k or moss.

A U D U B O N ' S WA R B L E R ( 5 i n . ) i s a b i rd of the p i n e a n d f i r forests. Be­ haves m u c h l i k e flycatchers, catching in sects on the wing. B u i l d s feather­ l i n e d , b u l ky nest of bark a n d needles.

CASS I N ' S FINCH (6 i n . ) often nests in pine trees. Feeds o n i n sects and seed s. N ote male's red crown, b reast and r u m p . Ta i l i s deeply notc h e d . Female i s o l i ve-gray, a n d strea ked.

PI N E G R O S B E A K ( 9 i n . ) i s l a rgest Rocky Mt. f i n c h . M a l e i s rosy- red with black wings and ta i l . Fema le i s brown­ i s h-gray, has two white wing bars. These seed-eaters nest in conifers.

SPOTTED S A N D P I P E R (7-8 in.) tee­ te rs a s it w a l k s a l o n g l a k e s h o re s . It is the o n l y spotted s a n d p i p e r of the reg i o n . N ote the wh ite eye l i n e and w h ite shoulder m a r k .

1 01

G REEN-TAI LED TOW H E E (7 i n . ) feeds R E D C R O S S B I L L (6 i n . ) bobs as it and nests c l o s e to t h e g r o u n d . N ote f l i e s , uttering repeated " beeps." the s m a l l b i l l , l o n g w i ngs and t a i l , Feeds on seeds from evergreen cones. The W h i te-winged Cros s b i l l of the •· g r e e n b a c k and r u sty r e d c r o w n . Lays 4 eggs, w h ite with b rown speckles. N . R o c k i e s h a s two wh i te w i n g bars.

G RAY- H E A D E D J U NC O (6 i n . ) with r u s t y b a c k , gray s i d e s , p a l e b i l l and w h ite outer tail feathers; feeds and nests on gro u n d . Both t h e White­ wi nged and Oregon J u nco also occ u r i n t h e Rockies.

1 02

LINCOLN'S SPA R ROW (5V, i n . ) prefers dense t h i ckets. N ote the breast, finely strea ked with b l a c k , c rossed by brow n i s h - y e l l o w b a n d . Song Spa rrow h a s h e a v i e r strea k s w h i c h meet in central d a r k spot.

W H ITE-C ROW N E D SPARROW (6V, in.) prefers b r u s h y meadows. M ottled brown b a c k , pearly-gray breast and conspicu o u s wh ite-stri ped black head. Song con s i sts of severa l w h i stles fol­ lowed by a tri l l .

B I RDS OF VALLEYS A N D FOOT H I LLS

PINE SISKIN (5 in.) i n coniferous forests but is g e n e r a l l y seen flying r ove head i n flocks. Note h eavy, b rown strea ks, forked t a i l , yellow w i n g bars, and u n i q u e , b u z z i n g , a sce n d i n g cry.

lives near water a n d dives f o r s ma l l fi s h . T u n n e l s i n to b a n k s t o b u i l d its nest. Has a . big head with a ragged crest, and a l ou d , ratt l i ng ca l l . Fema l e h a s chestnut breast. B LACK- B I L L E D M A G P I � ( 1 9 i n . ) has a long, tapering, i r i d escent tail, wh ite u n d e r p a rt s a n d w h i t e V o n its b l ack b a c k. Often gathers i n flocks on trees o r s h r u b s near the water.

B R O A D-TAI L E D H U M M I N G B I R D (4 in.) c l o s e l y re s e m bles the E . R u by­ t h roated. B u i l d s m i n ute nest of moss, l ic h e n s , p l a n t down and c o b webs. Wings make a

R E D-SHAFTED FLI C K E R ( 1 3 i n . ) is a w h i te- r u m pe d , brown · b a c ked wood· peeker, commonly seen on the ground probing for ants. Note u n d u l ating flight. Fe m a l e s lack red " m u stache" m a r k s of m a l e .

1 03

V I O L ET-G R E E N SWALLOW ( 5 '12 i n . ) is m eta l l i c v i o l e t a n d green a bove with two white p a t c h e s a t base of tai l . F l i e s h i g h over c l i ffs. T r e e Swa l low i s I b l u e a bove; white below.

W H ITE-TH ROATED S W I FT (7 i n . ) is o n l y swift w i t h w h i t e t h roat and breast. I t feeds on the wing, and flies ra p i d l y . Found i n footh i l l s near pre· c i p i t o u s rock w a l l s . S T E L L E R ' S J A Y ( 1 3 i n . ) has a ta l l , b l a c k c r e s t , deep- b l u e wings a n d ta i l . E a t s s e e d s , i n s ru:ts a n d f r u i t , a n d i s co n s p i c u o u s a t forest cam psites. Has a v a r i ety of loud c a l l s . ·

LEWIS W O O D P E C K E R ( 1 1 i n . ) is the only woo d pecker with a rose-colored belly. Feeds l i ke a flycatcher; flies l i ke a crow. Food includes i nsects, berries, fruit and acorns.

PYG MY N U T H ATCH (4 i n . ) i s often seen cree p i n g head f i rst down pine trunks, feed i n g o n i n sect s . N ote its s h o rt tail. U s u a l l y travels i n f l ocks, with a jerky bob-tailed f l i g h t .

D I P P E R ( 7 - 8 i n . ) , a sh ort, dark gray bird, bobs a s i t wa lks. Builds a b u l ky nest of moss on rocks a l o n g swift stre a m s near rapids a n d falls. Dives i nto water and w a l k s on t h e botto m h u nt i n g for i n sect l a rvae. CANON W R E N ( 5 112 i n . ) i s reddish­ brown with conspicuous white throat. I n h a bits c a n y o n s and c l i f f s . B u i ld s b u l ky nest i n rocky c r e v i c e s . Song i s clear, rapidly descending whistles.

R O C K W R E N (5-6 i n . ) i s a gray-brown wren of rocky s l o pe s w i t h f i nely streaked breast and conspicuous w h i te-ti pped tail. Forages for i n sects. Lays 7-8 eggs i n c revice nest.

1 05

B L U E B I R D S are common. T h e Moun­ ta i n B l u e b i rd (7 i n . ) i s bright blue with a white belly; female i s brownish. Western B l u e b i rd ( 6 '12 i n . ) has rusty red back a n d brea st; female is paler.

M A C G I L LI V R A Y ' S W A R B L E R (5 i n . ) , recognized b y its g r a y h o o d and wh ite eye - r i n g , prefers m ois t h i l l si d e t h ick­ ets; i s often found near water. It lays 3-5 eggs i n a nest of dried grass.

B R EW E R ' S B LAC K B I R D (9 i n . ) com­ m o n l y w a l k s with its w i n g s s l i ghtly d rooped. Feeds a l most enti rely on gro u n d . Nests i n colonies i n gra ssy meadows. Its note is a rough " c h eck . " I n t h e f i e l d , note t h e p u rple i r ides­ cence on the head and the white eye. Also common on the High P l a i n s and ea stwa rd .

W E S T E R N TANAGER (7 i n . ) is bril· liant yellow with black wings and a red face. F e m a l e is o l i ve-green a bove. yellow below. B u i l d s a twig-and-grass nest i n p i ne, spruce or fir, fairly close to the ground.

B LACK- H EA D E D G R O S B EAK (7 i n . ) n e sts i n open, decid u o u s wood lands; feeds o n i n sects and seeds. N ote b l a c k h e a d , h eavy bea k , r u sty b reast

and white wing patc hes. EVENING G ROSBEAK (8 in.) i s a large, d u l l -yellow fi n c h with a w h i t i s h , con i · c a l b i l l a n d w h ite w i n g patc hes. Easy to recog n i z e . Eats a va r i ety of seeds and fruits. Lays 3 to 4 eggs i n a nest of roots a n d sticks.

LAZULI B U NTING ( 5 V, in.) i s a bright· blue finch w i t h a c i n n a m o n b reast band a n d w h i t e w i n g b a r s . Female is dull brown . Prefers d ry brushy slopes and h i l lsides. Nests i n b u sh es. R U F O U S- S I D E D T O W H E E (8 i n . ) i s a s h y b i r d t h a t nests a n d feeds in t h i c kets or a m ong d e a d leaves. Note the b l a c k h e a d , red d i s h s i d e s , wh ite w i n g m a r k i n g s a n d w h i t e - t i p p e d tail feat h e r s . T h e western form of t h i s c o m m o n b i rd ( i l l u strated) h a s m a n y w h ite s p o t s on wings a n d back. Fe­ m a l e s m a l l e r and browner. A summer resident i n most of the Rockies.

f07

ROCKY M O U NTAI N F I S H ES F a med for tro u t i n its swift, cold strea m s , the Rockies also h ave scores of other f i shes , some preferri ng the la rger la kes a n d rivers . Still othe r s pecies, i n cl u d i ng M i s· s i s s i p p i B a s i n f o r m s , occ u r i n foothill r i ve r s a n d ponds. Ty pica l fi shes of the Rockies a re illu strated here. See also F I S H E S , Z i m a n d Shoe m a ke r , G olden P ress , N . Y. , 1956. Remember that a state license is req u i red even for fish i ng i n National Parks, M o n u ments a nd Fo rests . T R O UT a r e t h e region ' s n u m b e r one fresh-water g a m e f i s h . Best kn own is t h e R a i n bow or Stee l h e a d , with a c l e a r , reddish band a l o n g its sides. R a i nbows feed on i n sects, sma l l water a n i m a l s , a n d f i s h e s . Av. wt. 2 - 5 l b . R ecord 3 7 l b . The C u tth roat i s si lvery gray, deeply spotted with b l a c k . Note the red strea k s on lower jaw. Wt. 1 -3

lb . ; record 41 l b . T h e Eastern B rook Tro u t has been i n t rod u c e d . It is dark o l i ve, w i t h " m a r b l e d " b l a c k and red spots a long its sides. Eu ropean B rown Trout, also i n t roduced a n d fairly com· m e n , is d a r k a bove, s i l very below, with n u m e r o u s l a rge black spots. A• ra p i d grower; we i g h s 1 - 5 l b . ; record 3 9 pou n d s .

M O N T A N A G RA Y L I N G is s i m i l a r to trout, b u t related to wh itefi s h . It is a n

la rge dorsal f i n . Prefers cold stream s . T h i s p o p u l a r g a m e fish g r o w s to 1 5 i n . or more.

S Q U A W F I S H , t h e l a rgest native min­ now, i s said to reach a weight exceed­ ing 30 l b s . , t h o u g h 2 - 5 l b s . i s aver-

age. A n exce l l e n t sport fish o n l i ght t a c k l e w i t h b a i t o r l u re s b u t a r e too bony to be good eating.

R O C K Y M O U NTAI N W H I TE F I S H is

s i l very b e l o w ; head r o u n d e d , over· h a n g i n g s n o u t ; f i n s with b l a c k tips. Weight 1 - 3 p o u n d s .

NORTHERN SUCKER has a long snout and fine scales. Males have wide, red­ d i s h stre a k s i n s p a w n i n g season.

S u c k e r s are tasty f i s h , c a u g h t i n clear strea m s a n d c o m m erc i a l l y i n l a kes. Lengt h , 1 5 - 1 8 in.

1 09

ROCKY M O U NTA I N R E PT I L ES T h e ge n e r a l e n v i ron ment of the R o c k i e s d oes not meet the req u i re ments of repti les too wel l . These i nteresti ng vertebrates occ u r , b u t not i n great n u m be r or i n wide va­ r iety . Those concerned a bout s n a kes w i l l be g l a d to know

W E ST E R N S K I N KS a re s h y , swift, f i n e - s c a l e d l i z a r d s w i t h a t a i l l o n ger than their body. Two species, one with l i g h t str i p e s ; the other with dark. Lengt h , 8 - 9 i n .

S H O R T- H O R N E D LIZA R D ( 3 - 5 in.) is a f l atten e d , s h ort-ta i l e d l i z a rd w i t h a s p i n y h e a d crest. Prefers d ry, rough terra i n . Easily caught, b u t not a good pet. Wrongly called " H orned-toad . "

F E N C E L I ZA R D S w i t h coarse, spiny scales a r e d u l l , gray - b rown with dark a n d l ight blotc h e s . Several s pecies oc c u r i n the R o c k i e s , l i v i n g in d ry, wooded a reas or in rocky areas. Length, 5-7 in.

P A I N T E D T U RTLE, c o m m o n i n the East, a l so occurs i n northern Rockies. T h i s western s u b s p e c i e s has less color on t h e sides a n d a l a rge, regu lar, d u s k y patch o n t h e lower s h e l l . 7'h10 i n .

the reg i o n s u p po rts j u st o ne average- si zed s pecies of rattler-the o n l y poisono u s rept i l e i n o u r a rea . I n a l l , the reg i o n has a bo u t 1 4 s pecies of s n a ke s , seven of l i z a rds a n d fou r k i n d s of tu rtles. For f u rther i nfo rmation read A M P H I B I A N S A N D R EPTI LES OF WEST E R N N O RTH A M E R ICA,

Ste b b i n s, M c G raw- H i l l, N . Y . , 1 9 54.

R A C E R T h e w e s t e r n f o r m s of the common racer are thin, active snakes that feed on s m a l l a n i ma l s . They are o l i ve , b l u i s h or brown i s h a bove, and yellowish below.

W ESTER N GARTER SNAKE occ u rs in several forms. The G ray Ga rter Snake ( i l l u strated) prefers d ry places. Green· i s h gray to brown with a b r o k e n yel­ low stripe and black blotches on sides.

G O P H E R SNAKE, a s m a l l e r western form of the B u l l S n a k e , has dark b l otches on the back joi n i ng those on t h e sides. They feed mainly on rats a n d other rod ents, and h i s s violently when molested.

WESTERN RATILESNAKE, a med i u m ­ sized, t h i c k - bodied species (3-4 ft.), i s gray, gree n i s h or brown with l a rge i r­ reg u l a r black spots. It has a triangu lar head. Feeds m a i n l y o n rodents. Poisonous.

ROCKY M O U NTAI N A M P H I B I A N S WESTERN TOAD ( 3 - 5 i n . ) i s warty; gray, brown o r green i s h . B e l l y and c he s t s p e c k l e d w i t h b l a c k . Active at n i g h t at a l l b u t h i g h est e l evations. Males have chi rping, b i rd - l i ke call.

SPADEFOOT TOADS, 1 112-2 y, in., (th ree s p e c i e s ) are more c o m m o n in l ower altitude grasslands and open a reas. N ote r o u n d e d , s h a rp-edged black bump or "spade" o n feet, a n d ver­ tical p u p i l of eye.

LEOPARD FROG (3-4 i n . ) , the widest­ ranging North American a m p h i bi a n , i s i n a l l w a t e r s o f t h e area, i n both m o u nta i n s a n d l o w l a n d s . Greenish, bro w n i s h or gray with oval or round black spots·. S W A M P C H O R U S F R O G is a s maller ( l 'h in.) frog of moist gra sslands and strea mside b r u s h . Gray-green to olive­ brown, with five i rregu l a r dark stripes. Its ca l l i s a s h ort c h i r p . TI G E R SALA M A N D E R S a r e b l a c kish with va r i a b l e l i g h t colored m a r k i ngs. They live i n b u r rows i n moist ground or under logs and stones and in water d u ring the breed i n g season . Active at n ight.

R O C KY M O U N TA I N I N S ECTS With the great va riation in a ltitude, tem peratu re , mois­ tu re , a n d c h a r a cter of the l a n d , it is n o w o n der that the R o c k i es a re r i ch i n i n sect s . So u thern s pecies enter this a rea from Mexico a nd the Southwest; ea stern a n d P l a i ns species p u sh u p i nto the foothi l l s ; a n d n o rthern forms co me south at high a ltitu des . Colorado boa sts of more species of b u tterfl ies tha n s u ch c l i mate-favored states as Ca l i fo r n i a and Florida . . Watch for those i l l u strated a nd m a n y others. For s i zes, a p p roxi m ate given i n i nches . COLORADO ARCTIC ( 1 . 6 i n . ) prefers h i g h a l t i t u d e s , u s u a l l y f l y i n g a bove t h e t i m be r l i n e . The l a rva feeds on sedges . The a d u l t i s a d u l l , brown ish· gray; females are possibly more ta n n i s h .

M AG DA L E N A ALP I N E ( 1 . 9 i n . ) i s an u n u s u a l , velvety- black butterfly of the a l pine zone. Occa sionally l a rge broods a p pe a r , but t h e l i f e h i story of this c o l l ecto r ' s item i s u n known.

O C H R E R I N G LET, ( 1 . 2 - 1 . 8 i n . ) abun· d a n t a n d easy to recogn ize by its yel· l o w i s h · brown c o l o r ; often h a s a dark spot on e a c h forewing a n d s maller spots a l o n g t h e edges of the back. New Mexico northwa rd . COLORADO HAI RSTREAK ( 1 . 5 i n . ) i s t h e . l a rgest m e m be r of a g r o u p of s m a l l b u t bea utiful butterf l i e s . Found at lower a l t i t u d e s in s c r u b a nd open wood s. The l a rva feeds on scru b oak.

EDWARDS' FRITI LLARY ( 2 . 5 i n . ) has heavy black borders w i t h o l i v e - b rown u n d e r s i d e s . Freq u e n t s open fo rests a n d grassl a nds . Females often feed on roadside t h i stles. Range: S . Canada to Colorado a n d Nebraska.

COLORADO A N G L E W I N G (2.0 in.) i s found along wooded mountain streams and va l l ey s from I d a h o and Wyoming south to New Mexico. Wing borders ragged; u n d e r s i d e s with varying pat· terns of gray.

COLORADO M A R B L E ( 1 . 7 - 2 . 0 i n . ) is co m mo n f r o m the lowland mea dows to t i m berl i n e forests. The p a l e-g reen larvae feed on p l a n t s of the m u stard fa m i l y . Found in the Rocky Mts. north to British Col u m b i a .

AL E XA N D R A ' S S U LP H U R ( 1 . 9- 2 . 3 i n . ) i s c o m m o n a bove 6 , 000 feet. U n d e r s i d e s of h i n d w i n g are pale grayi s h - g r e e n . F e m a l e p a l e yel l ow or w h ite; l a c k s c o n s p i c u o u s b l a c k bor· ders. Larvae eat legumes.

WEI D E M EY E R ' S A D M I R A L ( 2 . 1 - 2 . 6 i n . ) i n h a bits moist m e a d o w s , val leys, foot h i l l s and m o u n t a i n s i d e s . La rvae feed o n cotto n w o o d ; h i bernate in rol l e d - u p leaves. F o u n d from N. Mex. north to Montana.

M O U R N I N G C L O A K , ( 2 . 8 - 3 . 2 in.) a widespread N orth A m e r i c a n s pecies, has p u r p l e - b rown w i n g s with bl ue· spotted yellow borders a bove , dark u n d e r s i d e s . Cate r p i l l a rs feed o n soft. leaved trees.

PA R N ASSIAN (2.3 in.) i s seen near sto necrop i n forest o p e n i ngs, fields and open grass l a n d s . High and low alti t u d e f o r m s vary in s i z e . Wea k IIi· ers. R a nge: n o r t h e r n N. Mex. to so u t h ern C a n a d a . WEST E R N TI G E R S WALLO WTAIL (3 . 3 - 4 . 3 i n . ) , c o m m o n e s t of several la rge swa l l owta i l s . La rvae feed on w i l · l o w , cottonwood a n d a s p e n . Common from Plains westward, New Mexico to Ala s k a .

1 15

WH

D

It wo u ld ta ke a l i feti me to see a n d lea rn to know the R o c k i e s , b u t even a short v a c a t i o n m a kes a beg i n n i ng. Here a re some p l aces to go and the ki nds of thi ngs to see, enjoy a nd u n dersta nd in the Rocky M o u nta i n s . To u r th rough National Pa rks a n d M o n u ments which preserve t h e bes.t o f o u r country's natural a n d h i storical heritage. Ta ke s h ort side t r i ps or camping tri ps to state and provi n c ial parks and National Forests. See b i r d s , game, and other w i l d l ife in t h e i r natural h a bitats; observe a l p i n e p l a n t s , r o c k s a n d geologic f o r m a t i o n s ; w a t c h b u b b l i n g m u d pots and e r u pting geysers. Boat o n m o u n t a i n - r i nged la kes or ta k e g u i ded trips down swift, wh ite-water rivers, through colorful canyons. Visit h i storic sites, I nd i a n reserva t i o n s , battlefields, ghost town s , m u se u m s and exhibits. Wa l k t h e natu re tra ils at leisure; hike the valleys, woods o r the mou nta i n s on m a rked tra i l s . Ta ke p a c k t r i p s b y horseback, o r t r y the chal lenge o f m o u n t a i n c l i m bs. Rest a n d relax at campgro u n d s s h a ded by ta l l p i n e s , i n resort hotels, at informal dude ranches, or at wel l - e q u i pped cabins. Try wi nter sports at ski centers or j u_st enjoy the magnificent views from l ifts, tows and elevated tramways. Fish t h e u n spoiled la kes and strea ms; hunt for game with gun or camera. Sample rodeos, rou n d u p s , frontier days, fai rs, and I nd i a n ceremonials.

NAT I ONAL PARKS AN D MON U M E N TS (4 P a r k s and 6 Monu ments) u n der the Nation a l Pa rk Serv i ce p reserve over fo u r m i l l i on acres of some of the most i nteresti ng pa rts of the Rocky M o u n ta i n regi o n . Set a s i de by Con­ gress o r by president i a l proc l a mation beca u se of their u n i q ue va l ue, these a rea s have a m ple fac i l ities for visitors. Cam p i ng is u s u a l ly per m i tted . R a ngers a n d r a n ger- n atu­ r a l i sts offer lect u res and g u i ded tri p s d u ri ng the s u m mer sea son. La rger Pa rks have m u seu m s . Check season dates a n d m a ke reserva t i o n s for l od g i n g at pea k t ravel t i mes. Moderate entra nce fees a re cha rged by most Parks.

116

I

N ATIONAL PA R KS AND MONUMEN TS

i

9

I?O M iles

...... .. .. ..._ _ _ _ ... _ _

-- Main roads :Mtk eurrenl hllhWI)' ni.IPS for new nttrstalt lnd Deltnst HIJhWI)'S

- ·-r- ·

Tom McHugh-National Audubon Society

Rare Trumpeter Swans nest along secluded lakes in Yellowstone

ol dest ( 1 872) and best k n o w n N a t i o n a l Pa r k , is a l so the l a rgest ( 2 . 2 m i l l ion a c res). It f i l l s the n orthwest corner of Wyo m i ng, r u n n i ng over i nto M o n t a n a a n d I d aho. E a r l y re p o rt s by h u nters a n d t r a p pers of the n a t u r a l wonders of the Yel l owstone a rea see med so fa nta stic that they were l a beled f i ction. Volca n i c activity ha s c reated breath·ta k i n g scenery and is sti l l evidenced in the l a rgest col lection of geyser basi n s in the world (300 geysers , la rge and s m a l l ) . Old Fa ithf u l , the m ost f a m o u s , eru pts reg u l a rl y , l oft i n g s o me 1 0 , 000 ga l· Ions of w a ter 1 40 feet i nto the a i r , at i nterv a l s of a bout 65 m i n utes. Grand Loop Roa d , a 142· m i le sce n i c highway, con nects w i t h the f i ve m a i n entra n ce roa d s a n d p a s ses c l o se to most of the major attractions in the Pa r k . West, south a nd Y E L LOWSTONE NATIONAL PAR K,

1 18

e a st entra n ces a re o pen M a y 1 to N ovem be r 1. The n o rth entra nce at G a r d i ner, Monta n a , i s open a l l yea r a n d s n o w p l o w s u s u a l l y kee p the r o u te o pe n thro u gh M a m m oth Hot S p r i ngs, Tower J u nction a n d North· east Gate to Cooke. Hotels a n d i n ns c l ose in m i d - Septem ber . Many ca mp· U . S . Nat;anal Park SeNko g r O U n d S a re ava i l a b le in S U m mer. O l d Faithful erupting D u de ran ches su rro u n d the Park. The Loop Road lea d s to h u n d reds of hot s p r i ngs, b u b bl i ng m u d pots , s i nter cones, a n d ter· races, often brightl y colored by l i v i n g a l gae. At M a m m oth H ot S p r i ngs there a re a m u seu m a n d tra i l s thro u gh the s p r i ng a rea . A l s o see Yel l owstone Fa l l s , the m a n y-hued Yel l owstone c a n yo n , rel i c s of a petrified f o rest, a n d a m ounta i n of volca n i c glass (obsi d i a n) . M o r e tha n 2 0 0 s pec i es of b i r d s , i n c l u d i ng the ra re Tr u m peter Swa n and White Pel i ca n , a re found i n the Park. Yo u may see moose, elk, b i s o n , b i ghorn o r m o u nta i n sheep, m u le deer, a ntelope , b l a c k a n d grizzly bea rs, beavers, and coyotes. Lodgepole P i ne and b road - l eaved t rees d o m i n ate the lower elevations; a l pi ne w i l df l owers b l ossom in m i d - s u m me r nea r r e m n a n t s n o w ba n k s . Hear ranger - n a t u ra l i st ta l ks at m u se u m s a n d geyser ba s i n s . Boi l i n g m u d pot U.S. Notionai .Park Service

Do not feed the Bears U.S. National Park Service

����II::

Union Pacific Railroad

Longs Peok rises to 1 4, 2 5 6 ft. beh i n d Bear Lake, Rocky MI. National Park

i n c l udes more than 60 g l a c i a l ·cut pea ks extend i ng a bove 1 0 , 000 feet. Five l i ngering gla ciers, U · sha ped va l leys, a n d m a n y tarns or g l a c i a l l a kes a re rem i nders of the recent i ce a ges. Pink moss ca m pi o n s a n d yel low s n ow b u tterc u ps b l oom in a l p i ne meadows. B l ue col u m bi ne and m a ny other fl owers a re c o m m o n at l ower elevati o n s . M o u n ta i n meadows, a l p i·ne t u n d ra , a n d s l o pes of pi ne, f i r, a s pen , a n d spruce p rovide food a n d shelter for bi rds a n d s m a l l m a m mals. Here, too, a re herds of e l k , colon ies of beave r , a n d bands of bighorn sheep. Tra i l R i d ge Road (open s u m mers o n l y) , h i ghest paved thro u gh· highway i n the U n ited States, with a bout ten m i les a bove ti m berl i ne, per m i ts g l i m pses of severa l d i st i nct c o m m u n ities of pl a n t a n d a n i m a l l i fe. At the western end i s G r a n d L a ke, l a rgest high g l a c i a l l a ke i n Col or ado. Visit the m u se u m and visitors center ( M o ra i ne Park) the a l pi ne m u seum ( Fa l l R iver Pass) a n d severa l self·gu i d i n g , nature tra i l s .

ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK

1 20

Altho u gh evi dence of g l a c i a l a cti o n i s widespread througho ut the Pa rk, and snowba n k s may persist a l l s u m· mer, the g l a c iers, magnificent from a d i sta nce, can be rea ched o n l y by foot tra i l s or by horse b a c k t r i p s . Experi· enced hi kers may want to scale Longs Pea k ( 1 4 , 2 56 ft.), Mc Hen ry Pea k , or Mt. R i chtofen ( i n the Never S u m mer M o u n ta i n s) . A g u i de is reco m men ded . Get a d v i ce from a P a r k ra nger. The Park i s open a l l yea r , tho u gh some roads a re closed in wi nter. The s u m mer program i n c l u des ta l ks, wa l ks , movies, and motor ca rava n s . Lodges , i n n s , a nd hote l s operate nea r the P a r k along a l l nea rby roads. Win· ter sports a re popu l a r at H i d den Va l ley on Tra i l R i dge but wi nter a ccommod ations a re r:nore l i m ited . Good camp· grounds a re n u mero u s . The Pa r k ' s ea stern entra n ces a re Fa l l R i ver, nea r the va l ley v i l l age of Estes Park, and at nearby Thom pson R i ver; G r a n d La ke is the western en· trance. Estes Park, with many stores, servi ces, and tou rist attracti o n s , has an aer i a l tra mway to the s u m m i t of Pros· pect M o u n ta i n . Dream lake l i e s near the foot of H a l l et Peak, Rocky 'Mt. National Park Union Pacific Railroad

WAT ERTON- GLACIER INT ERNATIONAL PEACE PARK on the M o n t a n a - C a n a d a border i n c l udes G l a c i e r N ational Pa r k in the U . S . , a n d adjoi n i ng Wa terton La kes N a tional Park i n A l berta . About 60 sma l l gl aciers sti l l c l i ng to the colorf u l ly scu l ptu red , sed imenta ry rock of high val leys and feed over 200 forest-edged l a kes - some many m i les i n len gth . F i n e l y gro u n d a n d s u s pended sed iment from the g l a c iers crea tes the va ried colors i n the l a kes a nd the mi l ky a p pea rance of streams. Snow may block high mounta i n pa sses f rom early fa l l to l ate s p r i n g , b u t hote l s a re open a n d tou rist servi ces ava i l a­ ble f rom J u ne 15 to September 10 . Goi ng-To-The- S u n H i gh­ way l i n ks La ke M c D o n a l d a n d St. M a ry La ke a n d offers a specta c u l a r 50-mi l e crossi n g of the C o n t i n e n t a l D i v i de. A n other r o a d l e a d s from G l a c i e r N at i o n a l Pa r k i nto the Waterto n La kes Pa r k . M a i n sce n i c feat u re of the sma l ler, Ca n a d i a n portion of the Park i s the l o n g r i bbon of Water­ ton La ke whi ch f i l l s a ro u n ded g l a c i a l ca rved va l ley. The l a ke i s s u rrou nded by conifer-clad s l o pes of s now- capped but glacierless pea ks.

G r i n n e l l Glacier ( left) a n d Mounta i n Goat ( rig ht), Glacier National Park U.S. Notional Park Service

Sob and Ira Spring

A fa m o u s hotel overl ooks Waterton lake

I n and a ro u n d both G l a cier and Waterto n Parks, hotels, ca b i n s a n d campgro u n d s a re ava i l a ble in summer. H i k i ng a n d h o rseba c k t ra i l s r a d i ate f rom the popu l a r centers of M a n y G l a c ier a n d Two Med i c i ne. There a re over 1 , 000 m i les of tra i l s in G l acier National Pa r k a l one a n d many on the Ca n a d i a n s i de, too. Ra nger- natural i sts provide g u i ded t r i p s a n d eve n i n g programs d u ri ng s ummer month s . F r o m s p r i n g to l ate s u mmer, g l a c i e r l i l ie s , bea rgrass, a n d b l ue ge nti a n s dot the m o u n ta i n mea d o w s . W h i te R ocky M o u nta i n goats ca n be sig hted on d i stant cl iffs. B i s o n , el k , deer a n d bea rs ( b l a c k a n d g r i z z l y ) a l s o roam t h e Pa r k . T h i s a rea w a s o n ce t h e h u nt i n g g ro u n d of the B l a c kfoot I n d i a n s . See t h e M u seum of the P l a i n s I n d i a n at B rown i ng, 1 2 m i les e a s t o f t he East G l acier. 1 23

U.S. National Park Service

V i sitors e n j o y w i l d flowers near Jenny Lake; Teton s in background

(sea son J u ne 15 to Septe m ber 1 5) i n northwestern Wyo m i ng i s d o m i n ated by ja g ged , g l a c i a l · c u t pea ks r i s i ng a b r u ptly a l most 7 , 000 ft. a b ove the p l a i n s . Lac k i n g foothi l l s , the Tet o n s c o n t rast sha rply with the sage a n d grassl a n d meadows of J ackson H ole, h i storic f u r·tra p per cou ntry to the east. Jenny La ke a n d other s m a l ler g l a c i a l l a kes f l a n k the Teto n front. M o u nta i n c l i m bers throng to the Teto n s . N o v i ces who want to scale the Grand Teton ( 1 3 . 766 ft. ) can tra i n at the P a r k · a p proved School of M o u n t a i neeri n g at J e n n y La ke. Les s a m b i t i o u s v i s itors ca n enjoy the t rees a n d f l owers, the u n i q ue geol ogy a n d g l i m pses of b i so n , moose, a nd el k . V i s itor centers a re l ocated at Colter Bay, Jenny La ke, and Moose . P u b l i c campgrounds and other accommodati ons a re a va i l a b le. A herd of m o re tha n 1 0 , 000 e l k w i nters at J a c kson H o le W i l d l ife Ra nge . GRAN D T ETON NATIONAL PAR K

1 24

The Ca n a d i a n Rockies, averagi ng o n l y a bo u t 70 m i les a c r o s s , exte n d northwest for h u n d re d s of m i les i nto A l a ska . Western Ca n a d i a n N a t i o n a l P a r k s a re co ncen· trated in southern A l berta and British Col u m b i a . M a n y f i ne p rovi n c i a l parks, s i m i l a r to U . S . state parks, a re a l so fo u nd i n t h i s regi o n . Al l parks of the C a n a d i a n Roc k ies, beca use of t he i r proxi m i ty a nd s i m i l a r c l i mates, h a ve s i m i l a r flora, fa u na , and A l p- l i ke scenery-mounta i n s ca rved by glaciers a nd spotted with i cefiel d s , or with snow-ca p ped pea ks. C h a let s , h ote l s , ca b i n s , and p u b l i c c a m pg ro u n d s pro­ v i de a c c o m m o d a t i o n s for v i s i t o r s . Resident p a r k off i cers a re o n d u ty to a s s i st . M o u nta i n c l i m b i n g , h i k i n g , boati ng, a n d fi s h i ng a re po p u l a r . In sea s o n , try s k i i ng, skati ng, a nd other w i nter s ports. M a ke i n q u i ries for w i nter tri ps and a ccom m o d a t i o n s as pa rt of the a rea i s c l o sed . See p . 138 for provi n c i a l pa rks. Notional a n d provi n c i a l C a n a d i a n parks

Josef Muench

lake louise lies below a s m a l l glacier in Banff Natidna l Park

BANFF NATIONAL PAR K, the f i r st ( 1 88 5 ) u n i t in C a n a d a ' s Nati o n a l Park system, i n c l udes s n ow- strea ked , pu rple-gray pea k s , heavi l y wooded s l o pe s , c a s ca d i n g waterfa l l s, ve rd a n t va l leys, and trout- stoc ked l a ke s . At the south of the Park ( a n d best seen from the Calga ry roa d , Rt. 1 A), is s pea rhea ded Mt. Assi n i bo i ne , the " M atterho rn of America" ( 1 1 , 870 ft . ) . North of Ba nff (ma i n entra n ce and Park hea d q u a rters), the Tra ns-Ca n a d a H i ghway lea d s to British Col u m b i a over K i c k i n g H o rse P a s s or on to La ke Lo u i se i n the La kes of the C l o u d s d i st r i ct , most p o p u ! a r w i l der­ ness s pot i n C a n a d a . The s u rfa ce of thi s deep (over 200 feet), c lea r, opalescent-green l a ke, wal led off from ruffl i ng b reezes , provides a perpet u a l ref l ecti o n of M t . V i ctori a . G l aciers a n d i ce fiel d s i n c rea s i ngly d ot the chi seled pea ks towa rd the north, term i n a t i n g on the B a nff-J a s per border in the 1 00-sq u a re-mi le Col umbi a l cefiel d .

1 26

n o rth of Ba nff, i n c l udes more of the exte n s i ve Col umbia l cefiel d , out of whi ch j uts Snow Dome, the hyd rogra ph i c center of the N o rth Amer­ i c a n conti nent. The Atha baska R i ver, bound for the Arctic Ocea n , ri ses here a n d water a l so f l ows i nto streams that empty i nto the Atl a nt i c a n d P a c i f i c . Atha b a s k a G l acier is access i b le to vi sitors by foot or by snowm o b i l e . M a ny more g l a ciers a n d M o u nt Col umbia ( 1 2 , 2 94 feet), highest po i n t i n A l bert a , a re i n thi s P a r k a rea . La rgest of the m a n y l a kes i s M a l igne, nestled i n a n A l p- l i ke setti ng_ Other poi nts of i nterest i n c l u de Mt. E d i th C a ve l l with nea rby Angel G l a cier, sha ped l i ke an a ngel with outspread wi ngs, a n d M i ette Hot S p r i n g s pooL J a s per P a r k ha rbors s u ch w i l d a n i m a l s as the w o l veri ne, w o l f , otte r , g r i zzly, b i ghorn sheep a n d Rocky M o u ntai n goats . J a s per, a yea r­ ro u n d re s o rt center on J a s per La ke, c a n be reached by road f rom B a nff , by ra i l a n d road f rom Edmonton on the east, a n d from B r i t i sh Columbia over Yel l owhea d Pass. JASP ER NAT I ONAL PAR K,

Drainage f r o m Col u m b i a lcefi e l d fl o w s i n three directions

U N ITED STATES

over K i c k i n g H o rse P a s s f rom B a nff, i s r u gged , g l a c i ated , m o u nta i n c o u ntry where the Yoho R i ve r , fed by the Wa pta l cefiel d , f l ows thro ugh scen i c Yo h o Va l l ey . Wo rth see i n g a l so a re fossi l deposits, 1 , 6 50-foot Ta k a k kaw Fa l l s , many g l a ci a l l a kes and a l p i ne wi ld flowers i n s u m mer. Kootenay Nat. Park a djoi n s to the s o u t h . H ighl i ghts here a re M a r ble Canyon a n d Rad i um H ot Spri ngs.

Y O H O NAT I ONAL PAR K ,

l ie i n the Sel k i r k M o u nta i n s west of the m a i n Rockies. Both c o n ta i n a m i xt u re of Rocky M o u nta i n a n d P a c i f i c North­ west flora , e s pec i a l l y evident i n the fo rest t rees . W i l d l ife i s a b u nd a nt a m i d glaci ated mo u nta i n scenery. G l a cier, a c l i m be r ' s parad i se, a n d Revel stoke, a center for wi nter s ports, ca n be reached by ra i l a n d highway. G LAC I ER AND MT. R EV E LSTO K E NAT I O NAL PAR KS

Snowmobile, C o l u m b i a lcefield, J a s per National Pa rk Notional Porlts Branch, Dept. of Northern Affairs and Notional Resources, Ottawa

U.S. National Pork Service

Po rtly cleared bones in the famous Dinosaur Quarry

D I N OSAUR NAT I O NAL M O N U M E N T ( n o rthwestern Colo­ r a d o a n d n o rthea ste r n U tah) i nc l u des a w o r l d - f a mous d i nosa u r q u a r ry a n d some of the most i m p ressive w i l der­ ness canyon cou ntry in the West M ost accessi ble, a nd o pen a l l yea r , i s the q u a rry north of Jensen, U tah, a ro u nd whi ch h a s been b u i lt a m o d e r n v i s i t o r s ' cente r . Here exhi bits a n d r a n ger- n a t u ra l i sts i nter p ret the story of the d i nosa u rs . Visitors may be a ble to watch workers clea r i ng d i nosa u r bones i n the t i l ted M o rri son s a n d stone bed s in the north wa l l of the m u seu m . More tha n twenty excel lent s keleton s have a l ready been removed . S i de r o a d s l e a d to the u pti l ted , i n te r i o r c o u n t ry , d i s­ sected by the G reen a nd Ya m p a r i vers i nto dee p , red -to­ white wa l led ca nyons a n d tree-d otted p a r k l a n d s , s u ch as Echo Pa r k , in the shadow of m a ssive , s a n d stone Steam­ boat Rock. G u i ded boat trips on these rivers a re ava i l a ble. Fa r a bove, sem i - a ri d j u n i pe r a n d p i n o n forests edge the ri m ro c k . A ncient I n d i a n sites c a n be seen i n Castle Pa rk a n d other a rea s .

1 29

B L A C K CA N Y O N of the G u n n i so n , a N a t i o n a l Mon u ­ ment i n western C o l o rado, i s o n e of the deepest, n a r­ rowest cha s m s i n the worl d . T h e r i ve r h a s s l o w l y cut through a n u p l i fted block of h a r d c rysta l l i ne roc k . Ta ke the roa d a l ong the southern ri m for a series of views. U.S. Notional Park Service

COLORADO

N A T I ONAL

4 m i les f rom G r a n d J u n c t i o n , p rese rves a ge m of w i n d a n d water ero s i o n . F l u ted c o l u m n s of red s a n d stone a nd c l i ffs a tho u s a n d feet h i gh vie with o d d - sha ped rock forma­ t i o n s . Drive in No Thorough­ fa re C a n y o n . U se the camp­ gro u n d . O pen a l l yea r. M O N U M ENT,

is a N at i o n a l M o n u ment on the sl opes of the Wasatch Ra nge nea r S a l t L a ke C i t y . Stal ac­ tites, sta l a g m i tes and many b r a n c hed hel i ct i tes c a n be seen i n the i l l u m i n a ted but c h i l l y c a ve r n s . A scenic tr a i l z i g- z a g s over 1 , 000 feet up to the cave entrance .

TI M PA N OG OS CAV E U.S. Notional Park Service

Josef Muench

B I G H O L E BATTLEFI E L D , a N a t i o n a l M o n u ment, i s the site s o u thwest of A n a co n d a , M o nta n a , where one of the l a st battles agai nst the I n d i a n s wa s fo u ght i n 1 8 7 7 . Here U . S . troops engaged a large fo rce of poorly- armed Nez Perce I n d i a n s u nder Chief J oseph, who was lea d i ng his ba n d to safety in Ca n a d a . In the battle, 89 I n d i a n s were k i l led , over 30 of whom were women a n d chi l d re n .

southea st of B i l l i n g s , Mont. , i s a N at i o n a l Mo n u ment that m a rks the site of the famous Battle of the Little Big Horn ( below) . Here Genera l C u ster, who had been warned of the l a rge I n d i a n fo rces , was ki l led and his troops were wi ped out by the S i o u x and Cheyen ne u n der Sitting B u l l a n d C razy H o rse. CUSTER BATT L E FIELD,

Arti s t ' s i n terpretation of Custe r ' s L o s t Sta nd Courtesy J o h n S. du Mont

1 31

Highway Commission, South Dakota

Heads of four presidents are carved on Mount Rushmore

T H E B LAC K H I L LS Geologica l l y l i ke the R oc k i e s, b u t a h u n d re d m i l e s east i n South Da kota, is a great isolated rock i s l a n d -the B l ack H i l l s . R i s i n g severa l thousand feet a bove the s u rro u n d i ng p r a i rie, the central gra n i te core m a kes u p most of the B l a c k H i l l s s ky l i n e . Thi s m i n i atu re version of the Rockies has its own d i sti nctive attracti o n s . S o m e of t h e m ost i m po s i n g g r a n ite m o n o l i ths and s p i re s of the B l a c k H i l l s a re i n cl u d e d in C u st e r State Park a nd adjoi n i n g N orbeck Wi l d l ife Preserve . In the center of thi s a rea i s d e l i ghtf u l Syl va n La ke. C u ster State Pa rk has a m u s e u m, a zoo and many recreational fac i l ities. I n addi­ tion to on e of America ' s l a rgest herd of b i son, one can a l so see w i l d t u r keys, b i ghorn she e p, a n d m o u nt a i n goats ( i n t ro d uced). N eed l es H i ghway provi d e s scen i c p a nora­ m a s . So d oes t u n n e l - spotted I ron M o u nta i n Road to Mount R u sh more (a bove), site of G utzon Borgl u m ' s 60-foot-high portraya l s of Wa shi ngton, J efferson, Lincoln, a nd Theodore R oosevelt, ca rved on the face of the m o u n ta i n . 1 32

S o u th of C u ster i s W i n d Cave N at i o n a l Pa r k , o pen a l l yea r . B i son, a ntel o pe, deer a nd el k roa m the a rea. T o the west i s a n other s m a l l b u t del i ghtf u l c a ve r n , J ewel Cave N a t i o n a l M o n . East of the B l a c k H i l l s l ies the B a d l a n d s Nat. Mon . , noted for its oddly eroded sed i ments and foss i l s of m a n y m a m m a l s . N o rthwest some si xty m i les i s Dev i l ' s Tower N a t . M on . , a breathtaki ng, flat-topped vol ca n i c p l u g, 1 , 280 ft. h i gh , formed some 20 m i l l ion yea rs ago a n d now exposed by eros i o n . A m u se u m expl a i n s the sto ry of this u n i q ue m o u n ta i n . See the fa med m i nlng towns of Lead a n d Dead wood . H o mesta ke M i ne, a ctive s i n ce 1 878 , is o pen to v i sitors. Dea d wood reta i n s many of its o l d b u i ld­ i ngs a n d the graves of W i l d B i l l H i ckock and Ca l a m ity J a ne. Gran ite spires along Needles H i g h way, Black H i i l s, South Da kota Highway Commission, South Dakota

Herbert S. Zim

l u m be r i n g i n Gallatin National Forest, Montana

NATIONAL FORESTS u nder the U . S. Fo rest Serv i ce cover m u c h of t he Rockies, where, i n five state s , t hey h a ve an a rea twice that of New Yo r k . These Forests a re multi­ p u r pose p u b l i c l a nds u sed for l um beri n g , m i n i ng, graz i ng a nd watershed p rotect i o n . They a re eq u a l l y important for recreati o n a n d offer many sites for camp i ng a n d picnick­ i ng. H u nt i n g , f i s h i ng, ho rseback r i d i n g , boati n g a n d chi l ly swimm i n g a re a l so ava i la ble i n these Forests. I nformation ava i l a ble from l ocal hea d q u a rters. See p . 1 4 . NATIONAL FORESTS A N D H EADQUARTERS Colorado: Arapaho, Golden; Gunnison, G u n n i so n ; Pike, Col orado Spri ngs; Roosevelt, Fort Col l i n s ; Routt, Stea mboat Springs; San Isabel, Pueblo; Uncompahgre, Delta; White River, Glenwood Springs Idaho: Challis, C h a l l i s ; Clearwater, Orofino; Coeur d'Alene, Coeur d ' Alene; Kaniksu, Sandpoint; St. Joe, St. Maries; Targhee, St. Anthony Montana: Beaverhead, Dillon; Bitterroot, Hami lton; Deerlodge, B utte; Flathead, K a l i spel l ; Gallatin, Boze m a n ; Helena, H e l e n a ; Kootenai, L i bby; Lewis and Clark, G reat Fa l l s ; Lola, M i ssoula Utah: Ashley, Vern a l ; Cache, Logan ; Uinta, Provo; Wasatch, Salt Lake City. Wyo ming: Bighorn, Sheridan; Bridger, Kemmerer; Medicine Bow, Laramie; Shoshone, Cody; Teton, Jackson

1 34

WIL D ERNESS AREAS have been set aside to preserve w i ld a n d p r i m i ti ve reg i o n s of N at i o n a l Fo rests . Of the 29 Wil· derness A reas (each with over 1 00 , 000 a c res) m a ny a re i n or nea r the Rockies. Of s m a l ler s i ze ( 5 , 000 to 1 00 , 000 acres) a re the W i l d A reas. Both a re co ntrol led by the U . S. Forest Service. A few roads and truck tra i l s a re kept open for f i re p rotect i o n , b u t access to Wi l derness A rea s i s by foot, on ho rse or by c a n oe. These a re the a reas for " ro u gh i n g it. " Try a pack tri p with a gu i de. Check regional fo restry hea d q u a rters (p. 1 4) a n d rea d Handbook of Wilderness Travel, by Wel l s, H a r per B ros . , 1 9 56. WI L D E R N ESS A R EAS Wyomi ng: B r i d ger, Glacier, N o r t h Absaroka, South Absaro k a , Stratifi ed, Teton . Montana: Anaco n d a - Pi nt l a r , Bea rtooth, Bob Marsh a l l . Montana and Idaho: Selway- Bitterroot. Idaho: Sawtooth. Utah: H igh U i ntas. WILD AR EAS Colorado: Gore- Eagle N est, M a roon-Snowmass, Rawa h , Uncom· pahgre, Wild E l k - Eagle Nest. Wyoming: Cloud Pea k , Pope Agie. Montana: Absaroka , Cabi net Mts . , Gates of the Mountains, M i ssion Mt.

Th ere a re many other areas i n the Rockies, prim itive, isol ated and u n i n hab· ited, that a re not officially Wild or Wilderness Areas. S awtooth Wilderness Area south of Stan ley, I d a h o B o b a n d I r a Spring

WILDLIFE R E F U G ES, of the U . S . F i sh a nd W i l d l i fe Servi ce, a re m o re n u mero u s to the east tha n i n the Rockies. Seven a re i n the a rea a n d m o re a re nea rby. Herds of big game, flocks of waterfowl a n d other w i l d l ife may be seen , giving vi sitors an u nexcel led opportu n i ty for o bservati o n a nd photogra phy. A n i m a l s a re p rotected e , x· cept d u r i ng occa s i o n a l s u pervi sed h u n t i n g sea s o n s , a nd m a n y breed i n the refuge a rea s . S i n ce h u nting is prohibited i n Nat i o n a l Parks, these too serve as ref uges . I nf o r m a t i o n i s ava i l a ble f ro m ref u ge m a n a gers and f r o m the Fish a n d W i l d l ife Servi ce , Wa shi n gton 2 5 , D.C. A l s o rea d Seeing A merica's Wildlife in our Na tional Refuges, by Devereux B utcher , Houghto n , 1 9 5 6 .

NATIONAL

S O M E NATI ONAL W I L D L I F E R E F U G E S I N T H E R O C K I E S

(Mainly for waterfowl unless otherwise noted) Idaho: Camas, J efferson Co. -also pronghorns; Minidoka, B l a i n e a n d Cassia Cos. Montana: Benton Lake, Cascade and Chouteau Cos . ; Nat. Bison Range, Sanders a n d Lake Cos . - bison, elk, deer, bighorn sheep; Red Rock Lake, Beaverhead C o . - i n c l u d i ng rare Trum peter Swan. Montana a l so has several large refuges east on the P l a i n s . Uta h : Famous Bear River Refuge ( Box Elder Co.) i s w e s t o f the Rockies. Wyoming: Nat. Elk R efuge, Teton Co. -also includes a variety of big game,

waterfowl and u pland gamebirds; Pathfinder, Natrona a n d Carbon Cos.-also pronghorns. Waterfowl a n d shorebirds feed at Bear River Refuge, Utah

a re less known a n d he n ce m a y not be as c rowded as N at i o n a l P a r ks. They a re m o re com mon in I d aho and M o n ta n a . B r it i sh Col u m b i a boasts of f i ne, l a rge p rovi n c i a l p a r k s a n d A l berta has m a n y s m a l l ones. There a re fewe r state a re a s i n the s o u the rn R o c k i e s . C o l o rado h a s only roa d s i de parks at p rese n t . M o st of the l a rge Canad i a n parks l ie a l ong the C o n t i nenta l D i vide a n d i n Montana Higkway Commission CI Ude rugged mounta i n SeenC a v e formations i n l e w i s a n d Clprk e ry . State p a r k s ( a n d m a ny Cavern State Park, Montana c o u nty or l o c a l pa rks) i n ­ c l u de fac i l ities f o r r'ec �ea t i o n , p i c n i c k i n g a n d ca m p i ng. Campgrou nd g u ides ( p . 1 4 1 ) often give deta i l s on these fac i l ities and on cha rges, if any. STATE PARKS

M O NTANA L e w i s a n d C l a r k Cavern State P a r k (entrance f e e ; g u i d e d tours) i n c l u d e s t h e t h i rd l a rgest cave i n U . S . , 300 ft. deep with col u m n s , s p i res and h e l ictites. WYO M I N G H ot Springs State Park near T h e r m o po l i s h a s f o u r big a n d many small m i neral hot spri ngs, i n c l u d i n g one of the l a rgest and hottest i n t h e world. I ndoor and outdoor swi m m i n g pools; e l k and b i s o n herds. I DAHO l:l eyburn State Pa rk, at the southern tip of Coeur d ' Ale ne Lake, includes streams and mountain foot t r a i l s . Lava Hot Springs Pl u nge southeast of Pocatello i s a health center. BRITISH COLU M B I A has t h e la rgest provincial parks in the Cana­ dian Rockies. H a m ber, Mt. Robson, Wel l s Gray and Kokanee Glacier parks have m u c h to offer in scenery, recreati o n and c a m p i n g , a s d o m a ny other s m a l ler prov'lncial parks. ALBERTA has over a dozen sma l l parks i n the western part and a l so has many roadside campgrou nds. Check you r road map. FOR M O R E I N FO R M ATI O N write to agencies s u ggested on p. 14. Yo u r i n q u i ry w i l l be forwarded if it cannot be an swered d i rectly.

1 37

S u n set in city pork, Denver

r i ghtly boasts of i t s u n i q ue system of some 49 p a r k s , covering an a rea of 380 s q . m i les. M o st a re in the m o u nta i n s , forming a huge c i rcle southwest of Denver. Some a re with i n the c ity l i m i ts. The p a r k s a fford scenic m o u nt a i n d r ives, views of many pea k s , ferti le v a l leys, watershe d s , l a kes, strea ms, a n d wi l d l ife. S i de tri ps over b a c k roa d s , lead i n g to ra nches , m o u n ta i n mead ows and sta n d s of pi nes and a s pen s, w i l l p rove rewa rd i n g, too. M ost parks have picnic a rea s ; some have m u seums. Only 3 0 m i n utes west of De n ver i s Lookout P a r k and B u ffa l o B i l l ' s G rave. Pa rk of the Red Roc ks, 14 m i les west of Denver, conta i n s the fa m o u s Red Rocks Theater, b u i lt i nto .the n a t u r a l Triassic red sandstone hogbacks. Here eros i o n has for med a n acousti c a l ly perfect a u d itori u m . A 30- m i le tri p to Bergen Park lea d s from I d aho Spri ngs over Sq u a w Pass to Echo Lake and S u m m i t Lake parks a n d , D ENVER

1 38

over the h i ghest a uto road i n the U n i ted States, to· the top of Mt. Eva n s - 14, 260 feet. Here, in addition to the s u perb views, is a major cosmic ray l a boratory. In Genesee Park, 2 0 m i les west of Denver, and at Daniel s P a r k , 21 m i les south, b i s o n , e l k a n d a ntelope graze peacef u l ly . i s long fa med a s a resort a rea with a noted c ity park syste m . Nea rby i s the Ga rden of the G o d s , a p a r k of u ptu rned , red sed i ments, i n c l u d i ng a huge b a l a nc i n g roc k . A c i rcle road to u r gives a one-day view of the m o u n ta i n s . Other d r i ves i n c l ude the sce n i c R a m pa rt Range Road and the Gold Ca m p Roa d . Best k nown attrac­ tion is Pi kes Pea k ( 14, 1 10 ft. ) , reached by car via tol l road or by cog ra i l road . Cheyenne Mt. Zoo a n d W i l l Rogers Memori a l , Seven Fa l l s and Cave of the W i n d s a re a l so wo rth a vi sit. See Colorado C o l l ege , the nea r by F i ne Arts Center, P i o neer M u seu m , a n d N O R A D . A b o u t 7 m i les n o rth is the U . S . A i r Fo rce Academy. G ro u n d s open d a i ly; pa rades on Satu rdays.

COLORADO SPRINGS

P i k e s P e a k f r o m the Gorden of the Gods, Colorado Springs Josef Muench

Bob and Ira Spring

Tra i l Ia Hale-i n-the-Wa l l Camp, Glacier National Park

is rew a r d i n g . No m a ps a re needed for the popu­ lar, wel l - ma rked tra i l s . Fa rther afield the hi ker sho u l d u se the loca l U . S . G . S . topographical maps ( p . 1 4). Visitors can try everyth i n g from easy n a t u re wa l ks to l o n g wi l derness trips with a g u ide. Don ' t overesti m a te yo U r a b i l ity. H i gh­ cou ntry hi k i n g is exhi l a rati ng but the "th i n " a i r is t i r i n g to newcomers. H i ke with a compa n i o n . Stay on the tra i l s a n d a v o i d sho rt c u t s . Suit yo u r c l othi ng a rid eq u i pment to y o u r tri p . Comforta ble shoes , warni c l oth i n g , p l u s a wind­ b rea ker a re recommended . Ta ke a s l i c ker for s u m mer showers. Leave word a bout where you a re go i n g a n d when you expect to ret u r n . I f yo u r stay i s long, i n q u i re a bo u t l o c a l h i k i n g c l u bs. The S ky Line Tra i l H i kers and the Ca n a d i a n Youth Hostel e rs have a n n u a l exc u rsions i n the n o rther n R o c k i e s . H i kers c a n be e a s i l y tem pted by m o u nta i n c l i m b i ng ( p . 1 42), which i s at Its best here. HIKING

1 40

CAMPGROUNDS a re plentif u i . R oa d s i de p i c n i c a rea s a re com mon a n d i nc rea sing i n n u m ber. Faci l ities at desig· n ated c a m ps i tes range from c rude cleari ngs in W i lderness Areas to wel l - p l a n ned c a m p s with c a b i n s , tent p l a tforms or t r a i ler s i tes, t a b les, f i re p l a ces, wate r , a n d rest rooms. Some state parks cha rge s m a l l fees. S i nce c a m pgro u nds may be c rowded from Memor i a l Day to Labor Day, p l a n to a r r i ve at a ca m psite ea r l y . Lengths of stay a re l i m ited i n the more popu l a r ca m pgro u n d s . I n q u i re i n adva nce. Check at Nati o n a l Fo rest a n d P a r k hea d q u a rters for location of c a m ps a n d m a p s , or use the g u i des l i sted bel ow. Campground Atlas of the U.S. and Canada, B i e r a n d R a u p , Alpine. 1 960. Campground Guide, Rand M c N a l l y . Guide t o Campsites, Camping Family, I n c . , H a m m o n d , 1 9 6 1 . Intermountain West (Ca m psite Finder Vol . 3 ) , H a rtesveldt, Natu regra p h , 1 95 7 . Sunset Nature Campsite Directory, L a n e , 1 962.

C a m p i n g on Mirror L a k e near Devi l ' s P e a k , I d a h o B o b a n d I r a Spring

------

�------�

M O U N T A IN

CLI M B I NG

comes n a t u r a l l y i n thi s l a nd of " shi n i n g mounta i ns . " Col ­ o r a d o b o a s t s of 54 pea ks h i gher tha n 1 4 , 000 feet. No othe r R o c ky M o u nta i n state h a s a n y thi s high. Longs Pea k , 1 4 , 2 5 5 ft. , i s a Colo­ r a d o f a v o r i te . M o u ntain c l i m b i n g ta kes an essentia l k n ow-how which the i nex­ per i e n ced b u t phys i c a lly fit v i sitor c a n a cq u i re easi ly. For the n ov i ce , the o n l y re­ q u i rement i s to keep on the t ra i l . For d i ff i c u l t c l i m bs a g u i de a n d f u l l eq u i pment a re Bob and Ira Spdng i m perative. Begi n ners m i ght C l i m b i n g Longs Peak, C o l orado t ry the b a s i c i n st r u ction given every s u m mer i n G rand Teton National Park. I n q u i re loca l l y for deta i l s of classes and g u i ded c l i m b s . Never sta rt on a c l i m b that w i l l ta ke y o u o f f m a r ked t ra i l s w i thout p roper eq u i p ment a n d w i thout f i rst check­ i n g m a p s , t ra i l deta i l s , a n d tel l i n g a friend or a Park ranger where you a re goi ng. H i gh R oc ky pea k s in Colorado i n c l u de M t . E l bert, 1 4 , 43 1 , M t . M a s s i ve, 1 4 , 4 1 8 , a n d Pi kes Pea k , 1 4 , 1 1 0. H i ghest pea k s i n Wyo m i ng a re Mt. G a n nett , 1 3 , 7 8 5 and G r a n d Tet o n , 1 3 , 7 66. Utah ' s Ki ng' s Pea k , 1 3 , 49 8 , Mon­ t a n a ' s G r a n i te Pea k , 1 2 , 8 5 0 , a n d B ri t i sh Col u m bi a ' s Mt. · R o b s o n , 1 2 , 9 7 2 , a re other h i gh m o u n ta i n s . So me of the best, a n d most d i ff i c u l t , m o u n ta i n s for c l i m b i n g a re not the hi ghest ones. 1 42

of the Rockies come from a cent u ry of m i n i ng boo m s . So me a re neglected col lect i o n s of c r u m­ b l i n g c a b i n s , b u t m a n y a re restored beca u se of new m i n· i ng acti vity o r have become reso rts a n d vacation centers. G H OST TOW N S

Colorado: Aspen boomed i n the 1 890's; Central City-Black Hawk, once " rich· est square m i l e on earth , " famous now for its old m i n i n g flavor; Cripple Creek, fifth richest gold center of worl d ; Leadville, nation's s i lver capital around 1 878; Silverton, center of San J u a n m i n i n g d i strict. Nea rby are Telluride, Ouray and Creede. Also see Waldorf, one of regio n ' s h i g hest ghosts; wel l - p reserved St. Elmo; Georgetown, f a m o u s for its 1 4 - c u rve na rrow-gauge Loop. Idaho: Idaho City, once a territory capita l ; Florence, state's richest gold camp; Pierce, go l d fi rst d i scovered in 1 860, a n d nearby Yellowpine; Silver City, most pictur­ esque gold a n d s i l ve r ghost; Bonanza, and Custer, boom towns of the 1 870's; also Gem, i n t h e Coe u r d ' A l ene a rea . M ontana: Bannock, Monta n a ' s fi rst capi­ ta l ; Cooke, old gold and s i lver town; Gold Creek, gold fi rst d i scovered here; Marysville, one-ti m e lead i n g gold prod u cer; Virginia City, Monta n a ' s second capita l . Utah: Alta, once a bustling m i n i ng town ; Park City, m i nes once yiel ded over $300 m i l l i o n ; Brigham Canyon, began a s a gold town ; now copper; Silver Reef, now in r u i n s . Wyoming: Bald City, a short- l i ved gold camp; Carbon, fi rst coa l - m i n i n g town; Grand Encampment, in the copper field, and Dillon with its ta l l o u t h o u se s ; South Pass City a n d Atlantic City on the Continental Divide. British Columbia: K ootenay Lake cou ntry has mining ghost towns.

leadville, Colorado was once the " si lver capito l "

Josef Muench

Bob and Ira Spring

H a l f Moon lake in the Wind River Rdnge, Wyo m i n g , in a u t u m n

R I V ERS AND LAKES (natural and rese rvoi rs) a re common i n t h e R o c ky M o u n ta i n s , often servi n g a m u lt i p l e u se. They provide water for i rrigation, power a nd d r i n k i ng , a i d in fl ood and erosion contro l , and ma ke poss i b l e f i s h i ng , swim­ m i n g , boati ng, water- s k i i ng, and waterfowl h u nti ng. M a ny l a kes a re m a n - ma d e . A l l a d d a plea s i n g va ri ety to the cou ntrys i d e . The rea l gems a re the m a n y s ma l l , glacial l a ke s , most of them off the beaten pat h . Thousands of small stre a m s a nd the headwaters of many major rivers flow f r o m the Rockies. Fi s h i n g i s f a m o u s ( p . 1 46). I nq u i re loca l l y for boat trips on the l a rger rivers and l a kes. Among t h e region ' s foremost l a kes a re: Colorado: Gra n d . Shadow Mou nta i n , Granby, Taylor Park, Trapper's, Maroo n . Wyo ming: Ye l l owsto ne, J a c kson, Cooper, Wheatl a n d , Pathfi nder, S e m i noe, Boysen. Idaho: Pend Orei l l e ( I d a h o ' s largest), American Fa l l s , Pa l i sades, Coeur d ' Alene, P r i est, Cascade, Big Payette, Wa l cott, Redfi s h , I s l a n d Park, A rrowhead, Blackfoot R iver. Montana: Fl a th ea d, H u ngry H orse, H olter, Hebgen, Tiber, Ca nyon Ferry, Georgetown, Wade. Utah: Great Salt Lake ( 1 500 sq. m i l es , very salty), Uta h , Bear, Strawberry. Alberta: Mal igne, Louise, Kananaskis, Spray. British Columbia: Kootenay, Arrow Lakes, S h u swap, Jewel.

1 44

SPRING S , cold a n d hot, flow by the t h o u s a n d s . T h ose in contact with h eated vo lca n i c roc k are hot. La rgest concen· tration of h ot spri ngs (some 3 , 000) i s in Yel l owstone a m id s c e n i c geysers a n d m u d pot s . Oth e r hot s p r i ngs a re the s i tes of pools a n d resorts. Better known s p r i n g a reas a re: Colorado: Canon City, two s u l p h u r springs, d i scovered by P i k e i n 1 806; Glen· wood Springs, Ya m p a h S p r i n g s u p p l i e s l a rgest ( 1 , 6 5 0 ft.) outdoor m i neral pool i n world; Hot Sulphur Springs, more t h a n a dozen hot springs; Idaho Springs spa dates back to 1 868; Manitou Springs with famo u s Soda Spri ngs; Ouray, h ighest m i neral springs and pool ; Pagosa Springs, 1 53 ° springs heat homes; Poncha Springs, a bout 1 00 springs, u p to 1 8 5 ° ; Steamboat Springs, 1 57 springs and pools of various tem peratures. Idaho: Lava Hot Spri ngs (state park), 140° m i neralized water; Soda Springs (on Oregon Tra i l ) , va riety of hot and cold spri ngs; Malta, American Legion health p l u nge; Hot Springs (near Payette), hot medicinal water and mud baths; Big Springs, sou rce of t h e North Fork of the Snake. Montana: Giant Springs (near Great Fal l s), one of worl d ' s la rgest, 1 5 2 ° ; Mont Aqua, mineral ized water is bottled; White Sulphur Springs, resort. Utah; B l u e , Sweet Water, and I ro n - a l l s m a l l spri ngs. Wyoming: Sa ratoga , a state reserve, medicinal waters; Thermopol i s State Park, h u ndreds of mineral hot springs i n c l u d i ng largest i n the world; Warm Spri ngs, t h e 70' water once u sed by Oregon Tra i l travelers. �I beria : Banff, Hot S u l p h u r Springs; Jasper, M i ette Hot Springs. British Columbia: Fairmont H ot Springs, one of sou rces of water for C o l u mbia R iver; Halcyon; Rad i u m Hot Springs, i n K ootenay N . P.

Mam moth Hot Springs are the largest in Yel lowstone Notional Park U.S. National Park Service

Bob and lro Spring

F i s h i n g Swift C u rrent River, Glacier National Park, Monta n a

for trout i s popu l a r t h roughout the Roc kies from N ew M e x i co i nto Ca n a d a . Lakes a n d rivers a re often stoc ked . Check l oca l l y for l i cense req u i rements a n d catch l i m i t s . Vi sit t h e n u merous fi s h h a tc h e r i e s open to the p u b l i c . C a l ga ry, Ca nada, has worl d ' s l a rgest trout hatch ery. F I SH I NG

W H E R E TO F I S H

Colorado: T h e G u n n i s o n R i v e r . Conejos, F r y i n g Pan a n d Colorado; Tra p per's Lake a n d others. 1 5 , 000 miles of streams; 2 , 500 l a kes. Idaho: B uffa lo River, Henry Lake, Payette Lake, Lake Pend Orei l l e , Pri est Lake, Sal mon River, Silver Creek, Snake River. Montana: B i g Hole R i ver, Flathead Lake, G a l l a t i n R i ver, Georgetown Lake, Hebgen Lake, Madison River, Sun River, Tiber and Wade Lakes. Utah: D u c h esne R i ver, Logan River, Provo River wate rshed, Strawberry Lake, U i nta Mountain streams, Utah Lake, Wa n s h i p Lake. Wyoming: DeSmet Lake, E n c a m p ment River, Gras Ve ntre R i ver, North Platte R i ver, Pathfi nder Lake, Semi noe La k e , S h o s h o n e National Forest streams, Yel lowstone R iver and Yel l owstone Lake. British Columbia: Brooks River. Clea rwater R i ver, J ewel Lake, t h e K a m loops and Kootenay Lake cou ntry, K i c k i ng H o rse River. Alberta: Bow River a n d tributaries, the K a n a n a s k i s a n d Spray l a kes, O l d man River headwaters.

1 46

a n d tra p p i n g origi n a l l y opened u p the Rocky M o u nta i n w i l d erness. The " o l d days" a r e gone b u t ga me is sti l l a b u n d a n t and many sti l l come here to h u nt. Elk a n d mule d eer a re prime fa l l ga me of the region. Less fre· q u ently bagged a re grizzly a n d black bea rs, moose, bi son, bighorn sheep, mounta i n goats a n d l i ons, w h i te-ta i l ed d e e r , a n d pronghorn a ntel ope. S ma l l er g a m e i n c l u d e bob· cat, with tra p p i n g for beaver, s k u n k , m u s krat, wea sel and m a rten . T h e re is good h u nt i n g for waterfowl a l o n g rivers a n d l a ke s . U p l a n d ga m e b i r d s i nc l u d e sage h e n s , ri ng· nec ked p h e a s a nts, and several k i n d s of grouse. State l i censes a re req u i red and can be p u rc h a sed at most resorts a n d sport i ng goods stores. State game a n d fish depart· m e nts a t the state c a p i ta l s offer h u nt i n g i nformation. F i n a l ly, everyone can enjoy h u nting with a camera. Excel· l e n t s h ots c a n be taken i n parks where guns a r e p ro h i bited .

H UNTI NG

B i s o n on National Bison Range near Dixon, Montana Allan Cruickshank-National Audubon Society --.....,

1 47

M U S E U M S a r e p l e ntif u l i n t h e R o c k i e s , t h o u g h Denver a n d S a l t Lake a re t h e o n l y l a rge c i t i e s . M ost u n i versities, a l l the N a t i o n a l Parks, a n d m a ny N a t i o n a l M o n u ments h ave natural h i story m u s e u m s . There a r e good a rt m u se­ u m s , too. Loc a l pioneer m u s e u m s a re po p u l a r . T h e geo­ l ogica l exh i b its in several local m u se u m s a re worth ta k i ng ti me out to see. C o l o r a d o : Bo ulder, U n i v . of Colo. M u s . ; Canon City, M u s . of N a t . H i st . ; Colorado Springs, Colo. College M u s . , Fine Arts Center, Air Force Academy M u s . , Ft. C a r s o n M u s . ; Denver, U . S . M i nt, M u s . of Nat. H i s t . , Art M u s . , S c h l e i e r G a l l e r i e s , Clock M a n o r M u s . (clocks), C h a p p e l l H s e . ( a rt), State Hist. M u s . -)1 i storical dioramas; Golden, Colo. School of M i nes Geology M u s . , Colo. R a i l road M u s . ; Gunnison, Weste rn State Col lege archeology m u s . ; Montrose, Ute I n d i a n M u s. Idaho: Boise, State Capital M u s . (outsta nding bi rd exhi bits); Pocatello State College M u s . , Nat. H i st. M u s . Montana: Billings, Yellowstone M u s . ; Boze· man, M c G i l l M u s . ; Browning, M u s . of P l a i n s I nd i a n ; Butte, M o n t a n a School o1 M i ne s Geology M u s . , C h a r l e s M. R u s s e l l G a l l e ry a n d M e m . M u s . ; Helena, Mont. State M u s . and R u ssell G a l l e ry; Missoula, Art M u s . Utah: Salt Lake City, Latter Day Saints C h u rch Mus. of Nat. Sci . , State Ca pital M u s . , Univ. of Utah a rt ga l lery and geol ogy m u s . ; Springville, a rt gallery; Vernal, Utah Field Hse. of Nat. H i st . Wyoming: Como Bluff, " C reati o n " fossil m u s . ; Cheyenne, Wyo. Geology M u s . ; Jackson Hole, J a c kson Hole M u s . ; Laramie, U n i v . o f Wyo. Geology M u s . ' Alberta: Banff, N a t . H ist. M u s . , Luxton M u s . ( l nd ians). N a rrow gouge train i n Colorado R a i l road Museum Herbert s. · Z i m

1 48

Warren Hamilton

Polar Bears in the Denver Zoo

a n d other e x h i bits a re worth a stop. P l a nti ngs ra nge from co m m e rc i a l i ri s crops a t B o u l d e r to rock a n d rose gardens a n d l i v i n g study c o l l e ct i o n s (a rbo· ret u rns). Zoos in the l a rge c i t i e s a re best. Avoi d roadside zoos with a few caged a n i m a l s , kept a s to u ri st ba it. Don't miss t h e self-gu i d i n g n at u re t ra i l s in N a t i on a l Pa rks. GAR DENS, ZOOS

Colorado: Boulder, commercial i r i s gardens; Colorado Springs, Cheyenne Moun­ ta i n Z oo ; Denver, H a bitat Zo o and botanical g ard e ns i n C i ty Park, Roseacre (roses, l i l i e s , J a panese garden); Grand Junction, Lincoln Park Zoo; Greeley, Grasmere rock gardens; Pueblo, rose gardens in M i neral Palace Park; zoo. Idaho: Caldwell, m u n ic i p a l rose garden s ; Idaho Falls, Sport m a n ' s I s l a nd Zoo; Moscow, Shattuck a rboret u m ; Payette, Showberger bota n i c a l gardens; Twin Falls, Gaski l l botanical garden. Montana: Billings, Wonderland Zoo; Butte, rock gardens; Great Falls, botanical gardens; Red Lodge, "See E m Al ive" zoo. Utah: Provo, State fish hatchery and game farm; Salt Lake City, Li be rty Park rose gar­ d e n s and zoo, Hogle Gardens Zoo, I nternational Peace Gardens, George Wa sh­ i n gton Memorial G rove. Wyoming:_ Casper, m u nici pal gardens; Cheyenne, Great P l a i n s hortic u l t u r a l stat i o n , Lions Park s u n ken gardens; Lovell, rose gardens; Powell, spring garden tours; Thermopolis Hot Springs, zoo. Alberta : Banff, Cascade Rock Gardens, buffalo paddocks; Calgary, Reader rock gardens (plants from around the world), B u rns Memorial gardens, Brewery aquari u m , fish hatchery , zoo.

1 49

a re n o w s e l f - gove r n i n g ce nters of t r i b a l l i fe a n d i n d u st ry­ q u ite d i fferent from the heav­ i l y s u pervi s e d c a m p s of a c e n t u ry a g o . M a n y t r i bes m a n age soi l a n d water con­ servation . They run coopera­ t i ve a n d c i v i c p rojects . Visit t h o s e i n a n d c l os e to the R oc ky M o u n ta i n a rea to see t h e p rogress m a d e a n d the problems sti l l a head . I nd i ans of today a re f a r m e r s , cattle­ m e n , a n d workers in many t r a d e s . Lea t h e r a n d beadJames R. s;man W O r k a re Of ten f O r S a l e in Crow women i n costum e before a tipi com m u n ity c raft shops. Look for those bea r i n g the seal of t h e I n d i a n A rts a n d Crafts G u i l d . See a l so t h e I n d i a n m u s e u m s , s h ow i n g l i fe i n the R o c k i e s a n d adjoi n i ng H i gh Pla i n s before a n d d u r i ng the period of exploration and settlement. I N D I A N R ES E R V AT I O N S

Colorado: S o . Ute R e s . a n d U t e Mountain R e s . ( U te), s o u t h of o u r a rea. Idaho: Fort Hall I n d i a n Res. (Shosho n i , B a n nock) ( H e a d q u a rters: Fort Hall, N . of Pocatel l o , Rt. 9 1 . ), K utenai Res. ( K u tenai). Montana: B l a c kfoot Agency & Res. ( B l a c kfoot) , Rt. 2 , E . of B rowning; Flathead I n dian Res. ( Flathead, Salish, K u tenai), N . of Missou l a ; Crow Agency & Res. (Crow C h eyenne), Rt. 8 7 ; R ocky Boy's Agency Res. (Cree, Chippewa), S. of H avre; Fort Belknap Res. (Assi n i boi n , Atsina), S. of R t . 2 ; Fort P e c k Agency & R e s . (Assi n i b o i n , S i o u x) , N . of R t . 2 . Utah: U i ntah and O u ray R e s . ( Utes), S. of o u r a rea. Wyom ing: W i n d R iver Agency & Res. (Ara paho, Shoshoni), Rt. 287, N . of Lander. Alberta: Blood and Pi egan Agency ( B l ood and Piegan); Stony Sarcee Agency (Assi n i boin); Black­ foot Agency ( B l ackfoot); Sa rcee Reserve (Sa rsi).

1 50

H I ST O R I CA L S I T ES i n this regi o n a re m a i n l y of loca l i m portance. Forts and trad· i ng posts were esta b l i s h ed d u ri n g t h e f i rst h a l f of the 1 8 0 0 ' s . T h e n i n t h e sec­ o n d h a l f of t h e c e n t u ry c a m e gol d r u s h e s , m i n i ng c a m p s a n d boom town s. R e c e nt l y o l d to w n s h ave b e e n revived a n d re b u i lt; f o rt s h a ve b e e n restored o r r e p l i c a s c o n st r u cted. S e e t h e s e l a n d m a r k s of t h e n ot- s o- d i st a n t past. M a n y i n c l u d e m u se u ms a n d ex h i b i t s . See t h ose l i sted on p . 48 .

State of Colorado

The restored Central C ity Opera H o u s e

Colorado: Aspen, silver mining town revived ; Central City, restored, famous Teller a n d opera houses; Colo. Springs, Pioneer Mus., h i storical col i . ; Cripple Creek, m i n i n g town; Denver, Colo. State H i st. M u s . ; Fort Garland, Kit Carson ' s a d obe fort; Georgetown, s i l ver m i n i n g , H a m i l l H s e . ; Greeley, Meeker M e m . M u s . ; Leadville, silver b o n a n z a town , Healy H s e . , M a t c h l e s s C a b i n ; Pueblo, El Pueblo H i st. M u s . ; Sterling, Overl a n d Tra i l M u s . ; Trinidad, Old

Baca H o u se . Idaho: Cata l d o M i ssion, built 1 84 2 , off U S 10, w . of K e l l ogg; Ft. Hall, tra d i n g a n d m i l i tary post on S n a k e R iv e r west of present city. Montana: Bannock State Mon . , former territorial capita l , 25 mi. w. of D i l lon, B i g Hole Battlef i e l d Nat. M o n . , 12 mi. w . of Wisdom, Rt. 43; Billings, Ye l lowstone Co. Hi st. M u s . ; Crow Agency, C u ster Battlefi eld Nat. Mon . , m u s . , U S 87, Owen State M o n . , first settlement, off US 93, St. Mary's M i ssion nearby; Helena, Mont. State H i st . M u s . ; Virginia City, former territori a l capita l , m u s . , Rt. 34. Utah: Provo, Pioneer Mem. B l d g . , exhi bit; Salt Lake City, Pioneer Mem. B l d g . , Main St. , Pioneer V i l lage M u s . , Conner St. , Uta h H i st. Soc . , Tem p l e St. Wyoming: Cody, Buffalo B i l l H i st. Center and M u s . ; Ft. Bridger, south of U S 30S, original fort and army base, mus.; Ft. Casper, replica of old fort, mus., near Casper, Ft. Laramie Nat. M on . , mus., 3 m i . s. of Ft. Laramie, Rt. 26, I n d ependence Rock, fa med " register of the desert , " Rt. 220, 50 mi. w. of Casper; Lander, grave of Sacaj awea , n.w. off Rt. 287; Laramie, U. of Wyo. , State h i storical col lections a nd archives.

151

F OSSILS a b o u n d i n t h i s , one of t h e worl d ' s r i c h est fossil a re a s . H owever, don't expect to f i n d d i nosa u rs lying a long t h e roa d s i d e . Good fossi l s of vertebrates a re h a rd to find, d i ff i c u l t to extract a n d costly to p repa re and m o u n t . With l u c k one may f i n d a n occa s i o n a l tooth or bone. Watch for i n vertebrate and plant fossi l s , too. V i s i t loca l m u seums ( p . 1 48). Try " rockho u n d " shops. M a ke l oca l i n q u i ries be­ fore h u nt i n g fossi l s . Deposits may be off paved roads a nd h a rd to l ocate without specific d i recti o n s . C h e c k a l so for loca l g u i d e boo ks covering geol ogy a n d m i n era l locations. Best p l a c e s for fossi l s a re not in the R o c k i e s pro per but in " pa r ks , " foot h i l l s and adjoi n i ng H i g h P l a i n s w h e re up t u rned or u n d i stu rbed sed i m ents a re exposed . W H E R E TO LOOK

Colorado: Eastern foot h i l l s , good coll ecti n g the entire lengt h ; Canon City, d i nosa u r s and early f i s h ; DeBeque ( D ev i l ' s Playgro u n d ) , d i nosa u rs ; Morrison, d i nosa u r s and i nvertebrates; Florissant, fossil f i s h , many fossil pla nts and i n sects; Pawnee Buttes, fossi l m a m m a l s i n c l u d i ng horses and camels; N . W. a n d N . E . Colo .. many fossil m a m m a l s - r h i noceros, m a m moth, titanothere, saber­ toothed cat; good fossil exhi bits at Golden (School of M i nes). Boulder, Univ. of Colo. M u s . , and Denver ( M u s . of Nat. H i st.). Idaho: Petr ified Forest (Seq uoias)

in M a i m G u l c h near Challis. Montana: Near Harlowton, east of H e l e n a , large fossil beds with d i nosa u r s , ma m m a l s, t u rtle s , l i z a r d s , crocod i l e s , b i r d s , pl ants; near Conrad, 7 0 m i l e s north of Great Falls, many marine foss i l s i n shale of Marias River tributa ry ; d i nosa u r beds east of Anaconda. Utah: See Dinosaur Q u a rry in D i n o sa u r Nat. Mon., exhi bits of d i n osa u r bones i n position; Mount Timpanogos, m a r i n e a n i mals a n d plants in l i mestone; south west of Wasatch, p l a nt fos s i l s in cl iffs; Price, din o s aurs a n d titanotheres; Logan, seaweed; Salt Lake City, dinosaurs and other foss i l s on e x h i bit at U n i versity of Utah Geology M u se u m ; Vernal, o u tdoor life-size d i nosa u r repl i c a , field m u se u m . Wyoming: Como Bl uff west of Laramie, site of fi rst Rocky Mountain dinosaur finds, many early mammals, and nearby "Creation M u s e u m " conta i n s many fossils; Pol ecat B e n c h north of Cody, fossil crocod i l e s and t u rtles; Kemmerer, one of greatest fo s s i l f i s h beds i n worl d , toget h e r with fossil a l l i gators, birds, plants; north of L usk, l i mesto n e fossil beds conta i n i n g some of best American Trice ratops d i nosa u r r e m a i n s ; B l a c k H i l l s , g i a n t cycads ( d e p l eted), m a r i n e fossi l - bearing sha les at Belle Fouche. Al berta: Rich dinosa u r bed s-many localities for smaller foss i l s ; Calgary, d i nosa u r gard e n s with re plicas. British Col u m bia: Field, Bur­ gess shale deposits conta i n i n g many early Cambrian marine fossi l s i n c l uding seaweed s, sponges, worms.

1 52

Bob and Ira Spring

S m e lter near Kellogg, Idaho-Coeur d'Alene m i n i n g district

m a d e t h e Rockies f a m o u s . M i n· i n g i s sti l l b i g b u s i ness w i t h a tota l prod u ct i o n today greater t h a n i n the bonanza days of t h e l ate 1 80 0 ' s . Be· s i d e s gol d a n d s i l ve r , the reg i o n is r i c h in m o l y bd e n u m , va n a d i u m , a n ti mony, lead , z i n c , copper a n d g e m stones. Some operati ng m i nes are open to v i si tors and g u i ded tours have been set u p i n a b a ndoned m i nes. V i sitors can pan for gold loca l ly-good exerc i se . Check l oca l g u i des on l oca l ities for m i neral a n d gem col l ecti ng - t h ey a re l egi on. Some l a rger m i n i ng a reas a re l i sted below.

ROCKS AND M INERALS

Colorado: Climax, molybd e n u m ; Gilman, l e a d a n d z i n c ; Idaho Springs-Central City a rea a n d many others. Idaho: Kellogg, heart of Coeur d ' Alene m i n i n g di strict (lead, si lver, gold and zinc); Bunker Hill, lead a n d silver; Montpelier area, phosphate deposits; Wallace, lead-si lver. M ontana: Anaconda, copper ( Washoe S melter); Butte, gol d , silver, copper and zinc; Helena, gold , si lver and l ea d . Utah: Bingham Canyon, na rrowest city i n t h e world, has largest open-cut copper mine i n the U . S . Wyoming: Greybull, bentonite; Kemmerer, coa l ; Rock Springs, bitu minous coa l ; Gillette, great strip coal mine. British Columbia: Kimberley, summer to u rs t h rough lead-zinc mine; Trail, l a rge lead-zinc p l a n t . A l s o w i d e s p read but s m a l l d e posits of gol d , silver, copper tin , cad m i u m , antimony and bismuth.

1 53

Bob and Ira Spring

The Rockies offer m a g n i ficent views for the photogra pher-Boulder Peak, Glacier National Park

PHOTOGRAPHY in the Rockies can be d i sconcert i n g until v i s i tors le a r n t h ey tend to overexpose t h e i r p i ct u res here. The h igher one goes , the greater the l ight i nten sity. U n l ess yo u r ca m e ra is a utomat i c , or eq u i pped with a l ight meter, c l ose the s h utter one stop more t h a n w h a t yo u wo u l d u se for n o r m a l p h otogra p h s b a c k h o m e . Snow cover c a l l s for red u ced expos u re. S u m m e r pictu re-ta k i n g t i m e is best in t h e morn i ng beca u se of pos s i b l e afte rnoon s h owers. Bad weat h e r s e l d o m l a sts a n d t h e p a t i e n t p h otogra p h e r w i l l u s u a l l y g e t h i s pict u re . G o o d l a ke ref l e ct i o n s h a v e to be ca u ght early or l ate beca use of dayt i m e b reezes . Color p h otography i s best i n t h e R oc k i e s , b u t avoid strong l i g h t and s h a dow. Close - u p l e n ses or extension t u bes a re esse n t i a l for w i l d flower o r ot h e r d eta i l . A tele­ p h oto l e n s i s h e l pf u ! for b i rd s , a n i m a l s a n d i n getti ng d eta i l s of mounta i n scenery. W i l d l ife p h otography ta kes p atienc e . Don ' t entice bears with food . I t ca n be d a n ger­ o u s . U se a ye l l ow o r red f i lter w i t h b l a c k a n d w h ite f i l m t o give y o u contrast.

1 54

h ave beco m e a feat u re of the R o c k i e s , not only in the big cities, b u t a l so in the s m a l l er m i n i ng tow n s w h i c h h ave been revived a s centers of win­ ter s po rt and s u m me r recreati o n . Pagea nts, con certs, festi va l s a n d pl ays, i nc l u d i ng o l d -fa s h i o n ed m el od ra mas, m a ke up the s u m mer progra m s . A s pe n , Col or ado, i s the o l d est a n d most famous of th ese centers with a m u sic and c u l t u r a l progra m that has been goi n g o n for n e a rly twe nty yea rs . I nternati o n a l a rt i sts pa rt i c i pate j u st as they d i d i n the boom days of the ' 9 0 ' s . Check l oca l ly for sched­ u l e s . M a ny c o l l eges have s u m m er cou rses in natu ral sci­ ences with field work and week-end progra m s . Write them for cata logs. C U LT U RAL ACT I V I T I ES

Colorado: Aspen, I n stitute f o r H u m a n i stic St u d i e s , s u m me r festiva l s , l ectures, m u sic and s e m i n a rs . Boulder, U . of Colorado s u m m e r d r a m a , concerts and lectures. Canon City, music blossom festival i n May. Central City, s u m me r performances at fa mous opera house d u ri n g J u ly. Colorado Springs, Garden of the Gods, s u m m e r concerts, Broadmoor I nternational Center. Cripple Creek, old-time melodramas in s u m mer. Denver, summer opera at Cheesman Park, concerts at Red Rock Park, s u m m e r theater at E l itch ' s G a r d e n s . L a Junta, Koshare I n d i a n kiva and dances. Montana: Virginia City, su mmer playh o u se , 1 9th centu ry d ra m a . Utah: Salt L a k e City, Mormon Tabernacle Choir. Wyoming: Summer pageants of the West at Lander, Lusk and Daniel.

Concerts are held in the h u g e M u s i c Tent in Aspen Don Knight Photos

a re possi­ ble every m o n t h of t h e yea r i n the snow- cl ad Rockies, but t h e " s e a s o n " u s u a l l y ex­ t e n d s f r o m D e c e m b e r to M a y . S k i i n g is t h e top s port b u t la kes a n d rinks a re ava i l ­ a b l e f o r i ce - s kati n g . Snow­ s h o e i n g , b o b s l e d d i n g and to bogga n i n g a re d o n e a l so. Ski tows a re in operation at over a h u n d red s i tes from Union Pocific Roilrood S u n Va l l ey , I d a h o , famous Atop Dollor Mountain, S u n Valley, Idaho wi nter S p o rts a re a , where t h e r e a re severa l , to s m a l l , loca l l ifts. A s p e n , Colorado, a very m u c h rej u v e n ated g h ost tow n , h a s good ski slopes i n c l u d i ng fou r- m i l e Roch R u n , one of the worl d ' s most d iffic u l t Its 1 4,000-foot l ift, r i s i ng 3 , 400 feet up Aj ax M o u nta i n , is one of t h e l ongest i n t h e worl d . WINT ER SPORTS

OTHER R OCKY MOU NTAI N WINTER SPORTS AR EAS INCLUDE: Colorado: Arapa h oe B a si n , Bert h o u d Pass, Breckenridge, Broa d moor (closest

to the P l a i n s , a ugmented by a rtifi cial snow), Cooper H i l l (Lea d v i l le), Crested B u tte, Guenella Pass, H i dden Va l l ey, Loveland B a s i n , Mesa Lakes (Grand Mesa), Monarch Pass, Pi kes Pea k , Pioneer ( G u n n i son), Red Mountain (Glen­ wood Spri ngs), Redstone, Steam boat Spri ngs, Wi nter Park. Idaho: Island Park region, Magic Mounta i n (Twin Fa l l s) , Payette Forest (McCa ll), Pend Orei l l e region. Montana: B i g M o u n ta i n (Whitef i s h ) , Bozeman reg i o n , B utte regi o n , K a l i s pell reg i on , Red Lodge. Utah: Alta , Beaver M o u nta i n (logan), Brighton , Snow Basin (Ogden). Wyoming: Bighorn National Forest, C a s per Mou nta i n Park, Snow King Moun· tain (J ackson), Snowy Ra nge (Laramie). Alberta: B a nff (Mount Norquay, Sunshine Lodge, Mount Temple Chalet , Mount Skoki Lodge), J a sper (Whistlers Mountain). British Columbia: Mount Revel stoke, Red Mounta i n (Trai l ) .

1 56

I N DEX

Asterisks ( * ) denote p a g e s on w h i c h the subjects a re i l lustrated. Aconite, 67* Agate: banded, 5 8 * moss, 5 8 * Alabaster, 5 3 * Alder, t h i n leaf, 7 9 * Amozon ite, 5 8 * Amethyst, 5 8 * Ammonites, 5 9 * Amphibians, 1 1 2 * Anaconda, 1 7 Anima ls, 8 7 * -96* Antelope, brush, 8 2 * Arapaho I n d i a ns, 3 0 , 1 50

Arkose, 5 3 * Arnica, h e o rtleaf, 7 1 * Ash, mountain, 7 5 * Aspen, 1 55 * , 1 56 Aspen, quaking, 8 0 * Assiniboin I ndia ns, 30, 1 50

Assiniboine, Mt., 1 26 Astraspis, 59* Athabaska, MI., 49* Atsina I n d i a n s, 30 Avens, a l pine, 62 * Azu rite, 56* Badger, 94* Badlands Nat. Mon., 1 33 Balsam root, 69* Ba nff Nat. Park, 1 8, 1 26 * Ban nock I nd ia n s, 26-27, 1 50 Basa lt, 5 2 * Bearo b l ack, 8 9 * , 1 1 9 * ' g rizzly, 8 9 * Bearg rass, 66* Bear River Refuge, 1 36 * ·Beaver, 9 2 * B e e pla nt, R o c k y M t . , 7 2 * Bergen Park, 1 38 Big Hole Battlefield, 1 3 1 Bighorns, 8 8 * B i l l i ngs, 1 7 Birch: paper, 8 0 * water, 7 4 * Birds, 97*-1 0 7 * , 1 36 *

Bison, 96 * , 1 47 * Bitterbrush, 82 •

Bitterroot, pygmy, 63* Blackbird, Brewer's, 1 06 * B l a c k Canyon, 1 30 * Blackfoot I n d i a ns, 28·2 9 * , 1 2 3, 1 50 Black H i l ls, 1 32 * - 1 3 3 � Bluebird: mountain, 1 06 * weste rn, 1 0 6 * Bobcat, 90* Boulder, 1 6 Boulder Peak, 1 54 * Bozeman, 1 7 Bracken, western, 85 * Breccia, 53 Brontosa u rus, 60* Buffa lo, 96* Buffa lo berry, 8 1 * Buffa lo B i l l , 1 38, 1 5 1 Bunting, l a zu l i, 1 07* Butte, 1 6 Butterf lies, 1 1 3 * - 1 1 5 * C a l e n d a r of events, 22 C a l g a ry, 1 8 Ca lypso, 7 1 * C a l yptra, 86* Camping, 1 9 * , 1 4 1 * C a n a d i a n pa rks, 1 25-1 2 8 * Ca rnotite, 5 7 * Carson, Kit,' 37, 1 5 1 Casper, 1 7 Castle Geyser, 5 1 * Cedar, white, 7 8 * Centra l City, 1 5 1 * C h a l cocite, 56* Cheyenne, 1 7 Cheyenne I n d i ans, 30, 1 3 1 , 1 50 Chickadee, mountain, 1 00* Chickaree, 9 2 * C h i p m u n k, least, 95* Chokecherry, 8 1 * C i n quefoil, shru bby, 75 * Cirque, 5 0 *

C l e matis, weste rn, 7 1 * C l i m ate, 1 0 C ce u r d'Alene, 1 5 3 * Colorado N a t . M o n . , 1 30 * Colo. R a i l road Museum, 1 48 * C o l o rado Springs, 6 * , 1 6, 1 39 * C o l u m b i a lcefteld, 49* -50 * , 1 26, 1 27, 1 2 8 * C o l u m bine, Colorado, 6 6 * Concerts, 1 55 * C o n g l omerate, 5 3 * Con ifers, 7 3 * , 76 * ¥78 * Continenta l Divide, 7, 1 9 * , 1 22 Cony, 8 8 * Cotto nwood, n a rrowleaf, 79* Coyote, 96* C ross b i l l , red, 1 0 2 * C row I n d i a ns, 3 0 , 1 50 * C u lt u r a l activities, 1 55 C u rrant, squaw, 8 2 * C u ster Battlefield, 1 3 1 Da isy, s u b a l pine, 65* Deer, m u le, 9 2 * Denver, 1 5 * , 1 6, 1 3 8 * · 1 39; 1 49 * Devil's Tower Nat. Mon., 1 33 Dinosa u r Not. Mon., 1 29 * Dinosau rs, 4 4 , 6 0 * , 1 29 * Diplodocus, 6 0 * Dipper, 1 0 5 * Dogwood, red¥osier, 8 2 * Dream Lake, 1 2 1 * Dryas, mountain, 74* Elbert, Mt., 5, 1 42 Elder, red berried, 8 4 * Elk, 9 3 * Evans, M t . , 1 39 Eve n i n g sta r, m a n y· flowered, 70*

1 57

Explorers, 3 4 * -37 Fairy sli pper, 7 1 * F a l l River Pass, 1 20 Farming, 8-9* Feldspa rs, 57* Fern' b rittle, 85* pa rsley, 86* Finch: brown-capped rosy, 98* Cassin's, 1 0 1 * Fi" Douglas, 1 2, 77* g ra n d , 77* subalpine, 73* F i reweed, 67* F i re-whee l , 69* Fishes, 1 08 * - 1 0 9 * Fishing, 1 08, 1 46 * Flathead I ndia ns, 2 8-29, 1 50 Flax, b l ue, 68* F l icker, red-shafted, 1 03 * F lowers, 6 2 * -72 * F l uo rite, 57* Flycatcher, weste rn, 9 9 * Forget-me-not, a l pine, 6 3 * F o r t C o l l i ns, 1 6 Forts, 1 5 1 Fossils, 5 9 * -60 * , 1 52 Fox, red, 90* Fremont, 37 Frog, leopard, 1 1 2 * swa m p chorus, 1 1 2 * Front Range, 4 3 * Gabbro, 52 G a i l l a rd ia, 69* G a l e n a , 56" G a l latin Nat. Forest, 1 34 * Ga rden of the Gods, 1 39 * Gardens, 1 49 Gems, 5 8 * Genti a n : a rctic, 6 3 * Rocky Mt. fringed, 7 2 * Geology, 4 3 * -60* Geysers, 5 1 * , 1 1 8- 1 1 9 * Ghost towns, 1 43 * G i l ia , scarlet, 6 8 *

1 58

G lacier Nat. Park, 1 3 * , 1 7, 5 0 * , 78, 85, 1 22 * 1 23, 1 40 * , 1 46 * , 1 54* G laci e r Nat. Park (Canada), 1 28

Idaho F a l l s, 1 7 I g neous rocks, 5 2 * · I n d i a n paintbrush, 70*

Glaciers, 49*-50 * , 1 201 25, 1 26 * , 1 27

I n d ians, 2 3 * -3 3 * I n d i a n : cloth i n g , orna-

G lobeflower, 66* Globemal low, sca rlet, 72* Gneiss, 54* Goat, mountain, 88*, 1 2 2 * Gold, 56* Gold Rush, 38-39 Gooseberries, 82 Gopher, northern pocket,

ments, d ecorations, 3 1 , 3 2 * -3 3 * history, 23-30 map, 24-25 reservations, 1 50 * I nformation, sources of, 1 4, 43, 6 1 , 87, 97 I noceramus, 5 9 * I n sects, 1 1 3 * - 1 1 5 *

88*

H u nting, 87, 1 47

G r a n d J u nction, 1 6 Grand Teton Nat. Park, 1 24 * , 1 42 Gran ite, 5 2 * Grayling, Monta na, 1 0 9 * G r e a t Fal ls, 1 6 Greeley, 1 6 Green River, 37* Grinnell G l acier, 1 22 * Grosbeak, black-headed, 1 07* eve n i n g , 1 07* pine, 1 0 1 * Gras Ventre I n d i a ns, 3 6 * Grouse, 9 8 * b l ue, 99* Gypsum, 53*, 57* H a re, snowshoe, 9 3 * H a r e b e l l , mounta i n , 7 1 * Hawthorn, black, 80* Helena, 1 6, 3 9 * Hem lock, weste rn, 7 8 * H i k i n g , 1 3, 1 40 * H i storica l , sig hts, 1 5 1 timeta b le, 42 H i story, 2 3 * -42 * Hol lygrape, Oregon, 84 * ; Homestake Mine, 1 3 3 Hot sp ; i n g s, 1 37, 1 45 * H u c k l eberry, broom, 8 4 * H u mm i n g b i rd, b roadtailed, 1 03 *

Jack rabbit, white-ta i led,

94* J a c kson Hole W i ld l ife Refuge, 1 24 J asper, 5 8 * J a sper N a t . P a r k , 1 8, 4 9 * , 1 27- 1 2 8 * I Jay, g ray, 99* Ste l ler's, 1 04 * J ewel Cave N a t. Mon., 1 3< J u nco, g ray-headed, 1 n • J u n i per: dwa rf, 77* Rocky Mt., 77* Kalispell, 1 7 K i lldeer, 1 0 0 * Kimberly, 1 8 Kingfisher, belted, 1 03 * K i n g l et, ruby-crowned, 101 * King's crown, 6 2 * Kootenay N a t . P a r k , 1 2 8 Kute n a i I n d i a ns, 29, 1 50 Laclede, 3 5 L a k e Louise, 1 26 * Lakes, 1 44 * Laramie, 1 7 Larch, a l pine, 7 3 * western, 78 * lark, horned, 98 * larkspur, s u b a l pine, 67*

l a u re l , dwarf mt., 7 5 * leadvi l l e, 1 43 *

Monument pla nt, 66*

Lethbridge, 1 8

Moose, 96* Mora ine, 5 0 *

lewis a n d C l a rk, 26, 36

Mormons, 38-39

lewis and C l a r k Cavern Stale Park, 1 37 * lichens, 8 5 * -8 6 *

Mormon Temple, 1 8 * Moss campion, 62 * Moss: h a i rycap, 8 6 * spike, 86* Mounta i n : b u i l d ing,46 * -48 * climbing, 1 24, 1 42 * Mounta i n lover, 8 2 * Mouse, deer, 9 3 *

l i f e zones, 1 1 * - 1 2 lily: ava lanche, 6 3 * mariposa, 7 1 * limestone, 5 3 * lion, mountain, 9 1 * livingston, 1 7 lizard: fence, 1 1 0 * short-horned, 1 1 0 * locoweed, Rocky Mt., 70* logan, 1 7 longs Peak, 1 20 * , 1 2 1 , 1 42 * lupine, mountain, 7 0 * M a g p i e , black-bil led, 1 0 3 * Ma l a c h ite, 5 6 * Mamma ls, 8 7 * -96* Mammoth Hot Springs, 1 1 9, 1 45 * Maple, Rocky Mt., 7 5 * Maps: C a n a d i a n pa rks, 1 25 h i storica l, 24-25, 3 4 mineral, 55

Mud pol, 1 1 9 * . Mudstone, 5 3 * Museu ms, 1 48 * Muskrat, 9 5 * National Bison Range, 1 47 * Forests, 1 34 * Parks a n d Monuments, 1 1 6*-1 3 1 * Wild life Refuges, 1 36 * Needles Hig hway, 1 32 , 1 33 * Nelson, 1 8 Nez Perce I n d ians, 1 3 1 N i neba rk, 8 1 * N u tcracker, C l a rk's, 1 00* Nuthatch, pygmy, 1 05 *

modern, 4-5 Monume nts, 1 1 7 Pa rks, 1 1 7 touring, 20 Marble, 54* Marigold, wh ite ma rsh, 64 * Ma rmot: hoa ry, 8 7 * yel low-be l lied, 87, 9 1 * Ma rten, 8 9 * Meta morphic rocks, 5 4 * M i c a schist, 54* Minerals, 55-58 * , 1 53 Miner's cand le, 70* Mining, 3 8-39, 1 5 3 * Mink, 8 9 * Missoula, 1 7 Molybden ite, 5 7 * Mon keyflower, yel low, 67* Monkshood, 67*

Oak, G a m bel, 79* Obsid ian, 5 2 * Ogden, 1 7 Old Faithful, 1 1 8, 1 1 9 * Creodonts, 5 9 * O res, 5 6 * -57* Otter, river, 90*

P i n e : bristlecone, 1 2, 76 * l i m ber, 7 3 * lodge pole, 76 * ponderosa , 76 * western white, 76* western yel low, 76 * Pipit, water, 9 8 * P i u t e I n d i a ns, 2 3 * , 26-27 P l a i n s I n d i a n s, 30-3 1 * P l a n ts, 61 *-86* non-flowe ring, 8 5 * -8 6 * Plover, 1 0 0 * Pocate l lo, 1 7 Popla r, ba lsam, 79* Porc u pine, 9 3 * Prairie d o g , white-tai led, 95* Prim rose, parry, 65* Pronghorn, 96* Provo, 1 7 Pta rmigan, white-ta iled 98* Pueblo, 1 6 Puma, 9 1 * Pumice, 5 2 * Purple fringe, 6 4 * Pyrite, 57* Pyro l a , 64* Qua rtz, 58* Q u a rtzite, 54

Paintbrush, rosY , 67* Pea, golden, 68 * Pegmatite, 5 2 * P e l i c a n , white, 97 * , 1 1 9 Penstemon, ta ll, 7 2 * Ph lox, a l pine, 6 1 * Photog raphy, 1 54

Rabbit brush, 69* Racer, 1 1 1 * Ragwort, western golden, 66* Rail roads, 4 0 * - 4 1 * Ra infa l l, 1 0 R a n c h i n g , 6, 7 * , 8 Rat, b u shy-ta i led wood, 92 * Rattlesnake, western, 1 1 1 * Red elephant, 6 5 * R e d R o c k s Theater, 1 38 Repti les, 1 1 0 * - 1 1 1 * Revelstoke, 1 8

Phyll ite, 54 Pika, 8 8 * Pikes Peak, 1 6; 3 6 , 1 39 *

Reve lstoke, MI., Nat. Park, 1 8, 1 2 8 Rhyol ite, 52

1 59

Rivers, 1 44 Riverside Geyser, 5 1 * Rock brake, 86* Rocks, 5 2 * -5 4 * , 1 5 3 Rocky Mt. Nat. Park, 79, as; 1 20 * - 1 2 1 * Rushmore, Mt., 1 32 * Sacajawea, 26, 36, 1 5 1 Sagebrush, 8 3 * S t . louis, 35 Salama nder, tiger, 1 1 2 * Salt lake City, 1 7, 1 8 * , 3 8 *

p

Sphalerite, 56* Sports, winter, 1 56 * Springs, 1 45 Spruce' b l ue, 78 • Engelmann, 7 3 * Squawbush, 8 1 * Sq uawfish, 1 09* Squirrel, golden man tled ground, 9 1 * pine, 9 2 * Richa rdson's g round, 9 1 * 1 3-lined ground, 94* tuft-eared, 9 5 *

Sandpi er, spotted, 1 0 1 *

State pa rks, 1 37*

Sandstone, 6 * , 5 3 * Sapsucker, W i l l i a mSon 's,

Stegosa u rus, 60* Strawbe rry b l ite, 68* Sucker, northern, 1 09 * S u l p h u r flower, 6 8 * S u n Dance, 3 1 * Sunflower, a l pine, 62 * Sun Va l l ey, 1 56 * Swa l low, violet-g reen, 1 0 4 * Swa n, trUmpeter, 97 * , 1 1 8 *

99* Sawtooth W i l dernes� Area, 1 35 * Schist, 54* Scoria, 52* Sed imenta ry rocks, 53* Sediments, 4 3 * S e l k i r k Mts., 1 28 Serviceberry, 8 3 * Settlement, 38-4 1 Seven Devils Range, 1 1 * Shale, 53 Sheep, mountain, 8 8 * Shooti ngsta rs, 69* Shosh o n i I n d ia ns, 26-2 7 * 1 50 Shru bs, 74 * -75 * , 8 1 *-84* Silver, 56* Sioux I n d ia n s, 30, 1 3 1 , 1 50 Siskin, pine, 1 03 * S k i i n g , 1 56 Skink, weste rn, 1 1 0 * Skunk, stri ped, 9 4 * Skun kbush, 8 1 * Sky pi lot, 61 • Sky-rocket, 68 • Slate, 54* Snake, gopher, 1 1 1 * western g a rter, 1 1 1 * Snowberry, 8 3 * Snow·t. •"-the·mountain, 7 2 * Spa rrow: Lincol n's; 1 02 * wh ite·crowned, 1 02 *

1 60

Swift, wh ite-th roated, 1 04 • Ta l l c h i m i n g bells, 6 5 * Tamarack, 7 3 * Tanager, western, 1 0 6 * Temperatu re, 1 0 T etons, 46 • -47 * Thimbleberry, 8 3 * Thrush, hermit, 1 0 0 * Townsend's solita i re, 1 00 * Timpanogos Cave, 1 30 * Too& spadefoot, 1 1 2 * western, 1 1 2 * Touring, 1 3, 1 9-2 1 Towhee: g ree n-ta i led, 1 02 * rufous·sided, 1 07* T rade rs, 34*-37* Trail, 1 8 Trans·Canada H i g h way,

Tyra n nosa u rus, 60* U . S. Air Force Academy, 1 6 * , 1 39 Ute I n d i a ns, 26-27, 1 50 verendrye, 3 5 * Volcanic action, 5 1 * , 1 1 8- 1 1 9 * W a l lflowe r, western, 69* Wapiti, 9 3 * W a r b l e " Audu bon's, 1 0 1 * MacG i l l ivray's, 1 06 * Waterton-Gi a c i e r I nter­ nation a l Peace Pork, 1 8, 1 22 * - 1 2 3 * Weasel, long-to i led, 9 0 * Wh itefish, Rocky M t . , 1 0 9 * Whortlebe rries, 84 • W i l d e rness Areas, 1 35 * W i l low: creeping, 74* peoch leof, so· Wi nter sports, 1 56 Woodpecker, lewis, 1 04 • Wren: canon, 1 0 5 * rock, 1 05* Yel lowstone Nat. Park, 1 7, 20-2 1 , 5 1 * , 79, 1 1 8 * - 1 1 9 * , 1 45 Yoho Not. Pork, 1 2 8 Zoos, 1 49 *

1 26 Trees, 73*-80* T rout, 1 08 * T u rtle, pointed, 1 1 0 * Twinbe rries, 74* Twinflower, 64* J K l M N

THE ROCKY MO UNTAINS A GOLDEN GUIDE

®

H E R B E RT S. Z I M, P h . D ., Sc.D., initiated the Colden G u ide Series and was both author and editor for many years. Author of some n i nety books and editor of about as many, he is now Adj unct Professor at the U n iver­ sity of Miami and Educational Consultant to the American

Friends Service Comm ittee

a n d o t h e r o r g a n i z at i o n s .

He works o n

education, popu lation and environmental p roblems. S U ZAN N O G U C H I SWA I N has i l l u strated many scientific books and articles, includ­ ing titles publ ished by the American Mu­ seum of Natu ral H istory and the Audubon Society. She is a l ife member of the N ew York Entomological Society and the John B u rroughs Society, a major conservation o r­ gan ization. Most of her drawing is done from l ife models.

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NEW YORK