The New Larousse Gastronomique

w The lt-lew • l Larous se G as tronomique

Prefaces by Auguste Eseofrer and Phtl6as Gllbert to the or{gtnal edltion of to

Larousse Gastronomique Publishers' note note Publishers' Escffier died before the edition o/ Larousse Gastronomique Gastronomique was first edition of Larousse Escoffier died before the first published in great,king IgJg; the of cooks and the cook of of kings' kings, wrote wrote puhlished in 1938; the great 'king of cooks and the cook preface his phitias after readhg the draft of the manusuipt. his reading the first draft of the Philéa.s Gilbert laler later saw saw the the complete work work and and added added aa supplementary supplementary preface. preface. Gilbert

The history of of the the table of aa nation nation is is aa reflection of the the cÏvilization civilization of of that nation. nation. To To show show the The table of reflection of

changes in the order and serving of meals from century to century, to describe comment on the ...., .........b'~'" in the order and of meals from to to describe and comment progress of the French cuisine, is to paint a picture of the many stages through which progress of the French is to a of the which a a nation has evolved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating wild roots, has ev01ved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived caves, fOOts,

raw raw fish fish and and the the still still pulsating flesh flesh of of animals animais killed kiHed with with the the spear. spear. It is this history that is the subject of Larowse inwhich It is this that is the of Larousse Gastronomtqtrc, Ga.stronomique, in which Prosper Montagn6 has outlined .pages all thousandpages aH the the improvements improvements brought brought to to the the culinary art art from outlined in in some sorne thousand prehlstoric times to the present day. Presented in the form of a dictionary, it sums up all that has "", • .u.",~,","'''''' times to the Presented in the form of a dictionary, it aH that has been achieved by the science of alimentation, and everything in it has been minutely studied and and in it has been studied and been achieved described. described. Those Those who who make make a a profession pr()te~;Slcm of gastronomy will will find find in in this this book book matter matter for for comparison between what used to be the art of good eating and what it is today. Housewives will be particularly between what used to he the art of Housewives win be interested in the evolution of the table through the ages, its refinements modified in each epoch*to a înterested in the evolution of the table the ages, its refinements modified in each a certain extent by the exigencies of reigning fashions. hofessional cooks, both men and women, will the of """F.~J fashions. Professional both men and women, wî11 certain extent be HA~~!-,M~~ of of aa culinary technique founded founded on on the the universally llnIV"""C::~ be able able to to draw draw inspiration from the principles recognized knowledge and authority of the author. The text of the book and the recipes are enlivened are enlivened of the author. The text of the book and the by and legendary .'"'/5,""' .......... tales. by attractive attractive anecdotes anecdotes and tlVhile waiting to read them in print, I went through the While to read them in the innumerable innumerable manuscript pages pages of of this this encyclopedia and I am still under the spell cast by this work. How could it have been completed so this work. How could it have been so cm;ycloptoolla and 1 am still under the rapidly? For For the the author author had had only one one collaborator, albeit albeit an an eminent eminent one, one. who who was was entrusted entrusted with with all aH scientific scientific and and medical medical subjects, and and the the material material was was prepared in in less less than than three three yearsi. years. Iarotuse Gastronomique is a model of exactitude precision and in Larousse Gastronomique is a model of exactitude and in all an that that concerns concerns the the etymology of ofcertain certainwords, the thedefinition definition of ofculinary terms, terms, the theorigin of offoods foods inin everyday use useand and the the many many recipes for each grven dish. dish. ..UJIF.

Symbols Sym bolsofplenty of p!enl y- -bread breadand andwine, wme.meat mealand andeggs cggs(phot. (Phal. Nicotasl Nico/as)

and there are some very attractive Numerous descriptive photographs illustrate illustratecertain certain subjects, subjects, and there are sorne very attractive plates show finished dishes with their reproductions of antique engravings. Magnificent colour show tinished dishes with their col our appropriate garnishes. were well aware of this, had not Such work would would have have been been incomplete, and and the the authors authors were well aware of this, had not Such aa work vineyards. The greatest of these, considerable considerable space spacebeen beenreserved reserved for for the the riches riches of ofour ourfamous famous French French vineyards. The greatest of these, classified, are shown together ~V!,~"'~.""'l in in explicit tables. tables. some gastronomes of great renown of Finally, the biographies of certain certain maitres maîtres de de cuisine cuisine and and sorne gastronomes of great renown gastronomical bibliography mentions a are are for for ever ever immortalized immortalized in in these these pages, pages, and and aa culinary culinary and and gastronomical bibliography mentions a to the bibliophiles. great great number number of of works, some some of of which which are are perhaps perhaps unknown unknown to the bibliophiles. will find that Prosper Montagn6's All AH those those who who make make aa cult cult of of good eating and and good drinking drinking will find that Prosper Montagné's with interest and one that will have a Larousse Larousse Gastronomique Gastronomique isindeed is indeed aa work work that that they they will will consult consult with interest and one that will have a merited and just reward, which I prominent place in And this this will wîll be be the the author's author's merited and just reward, which 1 in their their library. library. And heartily applaud. Auguste Escoffier Auguste Escoffier

read the first draft of the after having formed after opinion he the opinion outlined the his preface, Escoffier outlined In his ln he formed having read the tirst draft of the completed' Being in a and revised later considerably revised was later Thismanuscript Gastronomique. This Lqousse Gastronomique. and in a Larousse manuscript was these final pages that my judgment was of these study of the study on the was on it was he, it position than than he, favourable positîon more favourable more final pages that my was founded because I have been able to see better founded the better is ait all the and is Escoffier and of Escoffier that of with that conforms with because 1 have been able to see based; itit conforms he predicted. what he for myself what Predicted. for prosper Montagnd, realized that he had undertaken a formidable of Prosper friends of otd friends and Escoffier and l,I, old Montagné, reaHzed that he had undertaken a formidable Escoffier understand the importance, but knowing can understand works can of culinary works authors of the authors only the which only of which one of task, one task, the but extensive erudition and his professional his extensive willpower, inflexible will his inflexible and his work and for work his capacity for his power, his erudition and his professional great cooks of our time, we were certain that he place among among great first place the first in the him in which puts him knowledge, which knowledge, cooks of our we were certain that he conclusion' successful a to it bring it to a successful conclusion. would bring would food or who are interested with food do with to do anything to have anything who have those who all those to ail wrote, itit isis to Escoffier wrote, As Escoffier As or who are interested addressed. It is-dare say it-the book îsis addressed. this book that this table, that the table, and the cuisineand the cuisine of the history of in the the history in It is-dare 1 say it-the of Prosper Montagnd. work of the professional work of the apotheosis of apotheosis vade-mecum for everyone' a reliable is-a vade-mecum mustbecome-and Gastrinomiquemust Larousse Gastronomique Larousse become--and itit already is-a for everyone, a reliable what subject connected with the matter what no matter onno and on momentand anymoment consulted atatany to be beconsulted ready to counsellor rcady subject connected with the counsellor table' thetable. ofthe artsof thearts and the sciencesand alimentary sciences alimentary effort may find its reward and perseveringeffort suchaa magnificent and thatsuch heartily that wish heartily Like Escoffier,l Iwish may find its reward Like deserves from any point it which welcome a conceived, it was whom for those of welcome the in in the welcome of those for whom ît was /"1"",,/""'1\,,"'''' a welcome which il deserves from any ofview. of Phil6as Gilbert Philéas Gilbert

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THE NEW

LAROUSSE GASIil}K(EN@NilHruffiTE MI T THE ENCYCLOPEDIA EE PE lA OF FO FOOD, WINE \TINE OF

& COOKERY OOKERY

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7fontagni by Prosper J\!(ontagné

AMERICAN AMERICAN EDITOR, EDITOR: CT{ARLOTTE CHARLOTTE TURGEON TURGEON PREFACE ROBERT J. COURTTNE PREFACE BY BY ROBERT]. COURTINE

oRrcrNAL ORIGINAL pREFACEs PREFACES By BY AucusrE AUGUSTE EscoFFrER ESCOFFIER AND pmldns PHILÉAS GTLBERT GILBERT TEXT THE FRENCH TEXT TRANSLATED TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH BY MARION MARION HUNTER HUNTER M.I.L. M.LL.

too o 1000

ations 1Jncluding Jllustr ncluding Jllustrations

7[any Many in Jull '}=ull Color

CRO\TN INC. CROWN PUBLISHERS, PUBLIS E IN .· NE NEWT YORK

Prosper Montagn6 Montagné by Prosper Originally published published under under the the title N ouv e au Lar ou s s e G astronomique Nouveau Larousse Gastronomique American Charlotte Turgeon American Editor Editor:: Charlotte

CopyrightLibrairieLarousse, © Librairie Larousse, Paris 19. 1960 @ Copyright

Hamlyn Publishing Group Limited Copyright English text The Hamlyn © Copyright Limited 1977 @

All AU rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in including photocopymechanical, including any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, photocopyretrieval system,without storage and retrieval ing, recording, or by any information system, without inlormation storage permission permission in writing lrorn from the Publisher. Inquiries Inquiries should be addressed to inwriting New York, N.Y. 10016. Crown Publishers, Inc., One Park Avenue, New Publishers,Inc., Printed in the U.S.A. Printed U.S.A. Company Limited Published simultaneously Publishing Company simultaneously in Canada Canada by General Publishing C ongr es s Cataloging C atalo ging in Publication Library of Congress Publication Data Library

Main entry under under title: gastronomique. Larousse gastronomique. The New Larousse gastronomique. Translation of Nouveau Translation Nouveau Larousse gastronomique. published under Larousse 1961, by under title: title: Larousse Ed. for for 1961, by P. P. Montagné, Montagnd, published Ed. gastronomique. gastronomique. 1. Cookery-Dictionaries-French. 2. Food-Dictionaries1. 2. Food-DictionariesFrench. 3. 3. Cookery, Cookery, French. French. 1. I. Dunbar, Dunbar, Janet. Janet. Il. II. Montagné, Montagnd, Prosper, French. gastronomique. 1 865- 1948. Larousse gastronomique. 1865-1948. TX349.M613 1977 1977 641'.03 641'.O3 77-9905 TX349.M613 0-517-53 137-2 ISBN 0-517-53137-2

Preface In his preface to first edition of Larousse In to the the first Gas tr onomique Escoffier wrote: wrote : Gastronomique 'The history history of 'The of a nation's table is a reflection of the civilisation the civilisation of of that nation. To To show that nation. show the changes changes in the order and serving of meals from century to century, to describe and comment on the progress of the French cuisine, is is to paint a picture many stages picture of the the many stages through through which which a nation has evolved since the distant times when, as aa weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating as wild roots, raw fish and the still pulsating flesh of animals killed animaIs kiUed with the spear. 'It is this history that is the subject 'It of Larousse subjectof Montagn6 has Gastronomique, in which Prosper Montagné pages aH some thousand outlined in sorne thousand pages all the improvements from preart from brought to to the the culinary art ments brought historic times to the historic thé present day. Presented in the of a dictionary, dictionary, it sums up aIl form of all that has been achieved by by the achieved the science science of of alimentation, alimentation, and everything in it it has has been been minutely studied and described. 'Those 'Those who make a profession of gastronomy

will find find in this book for comparison will in this book matter matter for between what used used to be the art of good eating what it and what it is will be and is today. today. Housewives Housewives will particularly interested interested in in the the evolution of of the table through through the ages, ages, its refinements modified in in each each epoch -- to to aa certain extent by by the certain extent reigning fashions. exigencies of of reigning exigencies fashions. Professional Professional cooks, both both men men and women, will be able to draw principles of inspiration from of aa culinary from the the principles technique founded on the universally recognised technique recognÎsed knowledge and authority of of the author. The rest of the book and and the the recipes are are enlivened enlivened by attractive anecdotes anecdotes and legendary legendary tales.' work of Prosper Montagn6 The work Montagné (and of Dr. Gottschalk, who who helped him Gottschalk, him notably with with the historical, scien tific and medical scientific medical material) is an historic work which it 1S is proper to revive today, historic adding new gastronomic while retaining its SLflDD()IDIC treats white style and and balance. Indeed, if if the the history of domestic cooking, which is inseparable inseparable from the domestîc history of the people, hasn't changed and if the great recipes remain remain the same despite despite the great the same tremendous simplification of modern modern cooking, tremendous on the other other hand dietetics is a new science which

has rediscovered redîscovered -- in order to endorse endorse them --- the broad ancient practice, somewhat broad outlines outlines of ancient somewhat forgotten since the beginning forgotten beginning of of this century. It It is essential to incorporate into this work work the lessons essential learnt from from aa combination combination of ancient wisdom and modern research. Legislation, as has modified modified the weH, has as well, the basic nutrition of twentieth-century twentieth-century man, and if if the man, and gourmet can still, with justification, reject certain gourmet progress, he must forms of must nevertheless take forms of progress, note of them. them. Moreover, taking his pleasures of the table where he can find thern, he has to recogrocognise, for for instance, instance, that freezing or freezenise, that deep deep freezing drying (words which w€re were unknown to Prosper Montagn6 and his contemporaries) offer to the Montagné and as well as to appetite as weIl as to the the greed greed of man man many satisfying satisfying solutions. solutions. The laws pertaining to vines have The laws wine and to wine and vines wine scene the wine in France. altered the considerably altered scene in Chefs in general are little Httle interested În in wine, and this is doubtless whyhitherto why hitherto Larotnse Larousse Gastronomique has neglected I ne~~ectea the cellar. My friends and 1 have made a better selection from French wines and those from other countries, countries, bearing bearing in mind the latest rules and regulations. Jean Desmur, who may deserve thetitle'Pic the-title 'Pic de La Mirandole de la la gastronomie', took La Mirandole de took upon duty himself the the dut y of recounting the details of the details gastronomical folklore, domestic history and and gastronomical domestic history date with what and because hecause one must be he up to to date one loves, we Est list the food and wine associations which have have multiplied multiplied since the last war. All this rounds out the original work without AH changing the direction or the balance. This either changing either profound wish. least our profound is aatt least It remains for me to introduce and thank the contributors of this new edîtion: contributors edition: Madeleine Decure, director of the the publication et vins Cuisine el Cuisine vins de France Jean D. Jean D. Arnaboldi, Arnaboldi, chief editor editor of the the publication ca tion Bien Bien Vivre Frangoise d'Athis, general secretary of of the the Revue du vin de France of I'Acad6mie Rabelais Henry Clos-Jouve, ofl'Académie Jean Desmur Robert J. Courtine Courtine Pierre Neuville Neuville

Table of of Comparative Comparative Measures Measrrres Table Note Note Published for throughout the for use use throughout the world, world, this this edition edition of of LAROUSSE Published LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE contains contains American American and and British British equivalents GASTRONOMIQUE equivalents as as well as as original original French French measurements measurements in in aIl all recipes. recipes. Occasionally weIl Occasionally what what appears to to be be aa discrepancy discrepancy in in conversion conversion may may occur. occur. In appears In fact fact this this results results from proportionate proportionate alteration quantities throughout alteration of of quantities throughout that that recipe from recipe in in order to to avoid avoid awkward awkward fractions in measurements. measurements. fractions in order The cups cups and quoted, together and tablespoons tablespoons quoted, together with The with the the French French measures, measures, in this this book book are are American American Standard, standard, which which are in slightly smaller are slightly smaller in in capacity than than British British Standard standard cups cups and capacity and spoons. spoons. The The American American and and Canadian Standard pint measuring Standard -!-* pint Canadian measuring cup cup has has aa capacity capacity of of 88 fluid fluid ounces; the the British British Standard Standard Imperial pint measuring ounces; Imperial -!-] pint measuring cup cup has has aa e'apacity of 10 fluid of 10 fluid ounces. capacity ounces. The The American American and and Canadian canadian Standard Standard measuring tablespoon tablespoon measures measures i$ fluid measuring fluid ounce; ounce; the the British British Standard Standard tablespoon measures measures 1I fluid tablespoon fluid ounce. ounce. 33 teaspoons teaspoons are are equal equal to to 1I tabletablespoon. All measureme measutrmrlttr ts refer refer to to LEVEL LEVEL spoons spoons and and cups. cups.

LIQUID LIQIJID MEASURES MEASTJRES French

American American

British British

li lf pints

4i 4| cups cups or 1 quart 2 ounces orlquart2ounces

1I demilitre (-!$ litre)

pint iI pi nt (generous)

22 cups (generous) cups (generous) or pint (generous) (generous) or 11 pint

1I decili tre (($ -il> litre) decilitre

3-4 3-4 ounces

1-* cup (scant) cup (seant)

1I litre

1

or pint (seant) (scant) or iI pint

WEIGHT WBIGHT French 1

1I gram 1

28·35 28.35 grams

British and and American .035 .035 ounce -1I ounce ounce

100 grams

3-!3| ounces

14 grams I114

4 ounces ounces (approx.)

226· 78 grams 226'78

8 ounces ounces 8

500 grams 500

pound 1-!I1 pound 1| ounces ounces (approx.)

kilogram I1 kilogram

2·21 pounds 2'21

APPROXlMATE EQUTVALENTS EQUIVALENTS FOR FOR BASIC BASIC FOODS FoonS APPROXTMATE American

British British

French

Almonds, blanched, bJanched, whole whole Almonds,

150 grams

5| 5t ounces ounces

powder Baking powder

4.3 4·3 grams

1I teaspoon (approx.) 1I ounce ounce

30 grams

I1 cup I1 teaspoon (approx.)

2] 21 tablespoons

I1 cup I1 cup

90 grams 45 grams

3L 3! ounces

15 grams 125 grams 500 grams

ounce {1 ounce

500 grams

100 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous) (scant) 4 ounces (seant)

1I pound (generous) (generous) (scant) I1 cup (seant)

Coffee, medium ground

85 grams

3 ounces

I1 cup

(cornflour) Cornstarch (cornflour)

10 l0 grams

1I tablespoon tablespoon

Cream of tartar

3-4 grams

t$ ounce ounce ounce l$ ounce 1I pound

Breadcrumbs, dry Breadcrumbs, fresh fresh

,,

" Butter

Cheese Cheese

"),

(grated Parmesan) Parmesan)

r+ 1t ounc€s ounces

4 ounces I1 pound (generous) (generous)

1

Fish

500 grams

(generous) (generous) 1

Flour (unsifted, ail all purpose)

",,

(sifted, ail all purpose)

",,

(sifted cake (sifted cake and and pastry flour)

Fruit (fresh)

",,

(dried)

Gelatine (leaf sheets)

",,

(granulated) (granulated)

35 grams 70 grams grams 142 142 grams 500 grams

1I -ft ft ounces 2$ 2~ ounces 4f ounces 4! 1I pound

60 grams 128 grams 128

(generous) (generous) 1I ounce (generous) (generous) 2$ 2! ounces 4| ounces 41

30 grams 60 grams 120 120 grams

1I ounce 2 ounces 4 ounces

500 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous) 1 pound (generous) (generous)

32 grams

500 grams 6 medium size leaves 150 grams 150

I1 tablespoon tablespoon *1- cup 2 cups

1I teaspoon

1I pound (generous) (generous)

t* cup *t cup 1I cup

3| cups 3t

t

cup

t* cup

1I cup

*t cup 1-* cup 1I cup 1I pound (generous) (generous) 2 cups

1I ounce

2 tablespoons

5$ ounces 51

1I cup 11 pound (generous) (generous) 1I cup 2 tablespoons

Meats

500 grams

(diced) ",, Mustard (dry)

grams 226 226 grams

1 pound (generous) (generous) 88 ounces

15 grams 15

tI ounce

--

French French

British British

American American

ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous) ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous) ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous)

4|tablespoons tablespoons 4t

grams 12 grams 12 grams 200 grams 200 grams l0 grams 10 grams 160 grams 160 grams 500 grams 500

lounce $ ounce 6$ ounces ounces 61 ounce l$ ounce 5$ ounces ounces 51 pound 1I pound

tablespoon 1 tablespoon 1 cup cup 1 tablespoon tablespoon 1 cup cup 3 cups cups

Rice Rice

grams 240 grams 240

***t 88 ounces

1 cup cup

Salt Salt

grams 15 grams 15

ounce tI ounce

1I tablespoon tablespoon

(ground) Spices (ground) Spices

grams 2| grams 2t grams 15 grams 15

ounce -Px $ ounce ounce tI ounce

1I teaspoon teaspoon 22 tablespoons tablespoons

(fine granulated) granulated) Sugar (fine Sugar

ounce l$ ounce

(powdered)

grams 55 grams grams 15 grams 15 grams 60 grams 60 grams 240 grams 240 grams 34 grams 34

1I teaspoon teaspoon 1I tablespoon tablespoon !* cup cup 1I cup cup !* cup cup

(confectioner's or icing)

grams 68 grams 68 140 grams 140 grams 35 grams 35

Pepper (whole (whole white) white) Pepper

,, ,, " "

(whole black) (who le black)

grams 30 grams 30

(powdered) (powdered)

grams 30 grams 30

(seeded) Raisins (seeded) Raisins

,,

"

,,

"

,, " ,, "

(seedless) (seedless)

(brown)

Vegetables (fresh)

"

grams 30 grams 30

tablespoons 44tablespoons

ounce tI ounce 22 ounces ounces 88 ounces ounces 1I ounce ounce (generous) (generous) 2, 2f ounces ounces 4~ 4$ ounces ounces 1I ounce ounce (generous) (generous) 2; 2f ounces ounces 14; 4f ounces i$ ounce ounce 2i 2$ ounces 5t 5$ ounces

tl cup cup 1I cup cup 1I tablespoon tablespoon t* cup cup 1I cup cup

500 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous)

1I pound pound (generous) (generous)

500 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous)

22 cups cups

70 grams 140 grams 10 l0 grams 80 grams 160 grams

(dried: Ientils lentils or split peas) peas)

3ftablespoons tablespoons 3i

tt cup cup 1I cup cup !* cup cup

H ABAISSE - A tenu pastry-making to describe ABAISSE-A term used in French French pastry-making (or sheet) sheet) of pastry. It is also used to aa piece piece (or of rolled-out pastry. It is also used describe aalayer layer of sponge cake or biscuit. ofsponge

may be or, better still, aa handful be substituted for the sage or, handful of an orange. orange. Bay leaves are rosemary boiled boiled with the skin with the skin of an (le Minagier good.' (le fourteenth century) Ménagier de Paris, fourteenth also good.'

c,{trrsrre -- Fourth Fourth stomach of the the rumiABOMASUM. CAILLETTE (solid rennet) its extract, nants. Dried Dried caillette rennet) or or its extract, liquid nants. caillette (solid in the the cheese-making cheese-making used in rennet (obtained by by infusion) is used coagulating milk. industry for coagulating Arddche and and La is also also the the name name given in Caillette in the the Ardèche Caillette is Dr6me to aa large large sausage stuffed with aa mixture of minced Drôme pig's liver leaves. Iiver and chard Ieaves. ABONDANCE ABONDANCE -- Wine diluted with water. the drink drink which which in in days This ironically describes This word word ironically describes the gone go ne by used used to be served in schools or colleges, where wine deprecattenu is used, deprecatwas scarce and and water abundant. The term ingly, of watered-down wine. An abaisse of pastry

(Hunger-killer) -- A A substantial substantial dish dish served ABAT-FAIM (Hunger-killer) early in the meal.

ABATTE (Beater) -- A A popular corruption corruption of the ABATTE the French (to beat). word battre battre (to An abatte is is aa rather rather thick, word beat). An thick, broad, double-edged knife used flattening meal. meat. double-edged used for f1attening grown in plant grown ABEL-MUSK. AMBRETTE ,c,Mnnnrrr -- An ABEL-MUSK. An aromatic aromatic plant very strong, must have aa very mustyy Martinique, the the seeds of which which have smell. In India these seeds are mixed with coffee to give it a smel!. these seeds heighten its stimulating properties. and to heighten special aroma, and ambergris-scented variety Ambrette is also the name of an ambergris-scented of pear. TABLE. ABLUTIONS ABLUTIoNs DE DE TABLE rABLE -- The custom ABLUTIONS, TABLE. rinse their of passing bowls of water to to guests at at table, to to rinse meal, or after eating fingers at the end of eating certain dishes dishes with of a rneal, back to earliest earliest antiquity. It was a common the fingers, goes back practice with practice with the the ancient ancient Egyptians, Egyptians, the the Greeks Greeks and and the Romans, who hands before the meal Romans, who not only washed their hands but also between the courses. common to ail all ancient people, is explained 'This practice, cornmon by the fact that in those days food was taken taken with the fingers. (usually scented poured the servant poured A servant the contents of aa vesse! vessel (usually A water) over the fingers fingers of the guest. In other circumstances, circumstances, (Vie privie simply hands were sim ply washed in a basin.' (Vie privée des anciens, by Louis Nicolas Menard) Menard) pouR UNE UNE EAU Recipe for for finger-bowl finger-bowl water. water. RECETTE FscETrE POUR Recipe D'ABLUTToN -- 'Boil 'Boil aa handful handful of sage in water. Pour off the D'ABLUTION marjoram resulting liquid and cool until tepid. Camomile or marjoram

Herb-flavoured wine. The The ancients ancients used ABROTONITE -- Herb-f1avoured ABROTONITE mugwort called abrotanum abrotanum in this wine of mugwort to macerate a sort of flavour. to enhance its f1avour.

ABSINTH. ABSINTHE ABSTNTHE -- Liqueur made made by by macerating and ABSINTH. (Artemisia absinthium) distilling thc thc leaves leaves of wormwood wormwood (Artemisia distilling plants (fennel, Chinese then adding adding other aromatic aromatic plants Chinese anise, then hyssop, etc.). Absinth (colloquially known as la verte) was the apéritif ap6ritif in Absinth the 1914 war. vogue before the vn D'ABSINTHE Absinth wine. VIN D'ABsINTHE -- Wine spiced by infusion infusion of of Absinth wormwood leaves. leaves. wormwood

Wormwood Wormwood a. Branch a. b. Inflorescence b. c. Flower Flower c.

v

ABSORPTION ABSORPTION ABSORPTION (Whinsical (Whimsical gastronomy) gastronomy)This was was the meal - This offered in l'École in bygone times times to to the the senior senior students of I'Ecole polytechniqrc arrivais. 'Enough 'Enough is bbsorbed absorbed there polytechnique by the new arrivals. to justify justify the name of of the ceremony.' ceremony.' (Lor6dan (Lorédan Larchey) Larchey)

ACETO-IX)LCE ACETO-DOLCE ('Sour*weet') ('Sour-sweet') -- An An Italian commercial product of a mixture of vegetables and fruit, first product consisting of pickled Muscat pickled in in vinegar, vinegar, then then preserved preserved in in a a syrup syrup of Muscat grape must, must, honey and mustard. It is is usually served as as an hors-d' œuvre. hors-d'euvre.

ABSTINENCE ABSTINENCE -- Days Days of of abstinence abstinence are those on which one should should abstain abstain from from eating eating meat, meat, although although one one is is not obliged to fast. Meat abstinence abstinence does not prevent one from fast. Meat Iiving nonnal life. In fact, fact, the total exclusion of living a perfectly perfectly normal certain foods and condiments condiments is indispensable in a number number of of dietary dietary regimes. A few days' fasting is also prescribed for those who have over-indulged over-indulged at table.

ACETOMEL. ACETOMEL. AcfroMELACÉTOMEL - Sour-sweet of honey Sour-sweet syrup made of and vinegar used in the preservation of of fruit. Quinces, Quinces, pears and grapes thus preserved of aceto-dolce, aceto-dolce, i.e. preserved take the name of sour-sweet sour-sweet fruit. inflammable liquid liquid -- A colourless, inflammable with an acrid burning burning taste and a quince-like quince-like smell. Acetone appears in the body when the process cif of decomposition decomposition of fatty matter is is deficient deficient and and particularly particularly when when the the diet diet is lacking in carbohydrates (sugar). This frequently frequently arises in severe of diabetes and starvation. starvation. severe cases ofdiabetes

ACETONE. ACETONE. AcfroNE ACÉTONE

ABUTILON -- There are more than sixty sixt y varieties of this plant the world. world. An An edible edible species species plant scattered scattered throughout the grows in Brazil. known Abuti/on esculentum esculentum grows Brazil. The The Brazilians Brazilians known as as Abutilon benças de deos and cook cook its flowers with meat. meat. call it bengas In ln Europe, abutilon abutilon is cultivated cul tiva ted as a garden garden plant for the beauty its flowers, ofits flowers, but only only rarely rarely for use as food. In some sorne beauty of countries, particularly particularly in Asia and and in the the West West Indies, its leaves manner of sorrel sorrel or leaves are are cooked cooked and and eaten in the the manner spinach. In India the the natives are very fond fond of the the species species known as Abutilon Abutilon indicam. indicum.

ACHARD - This word, derived from from the the Persian Persian ACHAR. AcHARD ACHAR. word atchar, atchar, describes describes a a strongly spiced spiced pickle pickle (usually (usually word saffron-coloured) saffron-coloured) made from from fruit, fruit, or vegetables, vegetables, or or very young, tender buds of of palm cabbage (palmetto) (palmetto) or bamboo bamboo sprouts. It is highly regarded throughout the Indian ArchiArchipelago, pelago, in Mauritius, and R6union Réunion Island. Island. Lemm ACHARDS DE DE crrRoNs CITR9NS Lemon achar (Creole cookery). cookery). AcHARDS Choose thin-skinned thin-skinned lemons lem ons and quarter quarter them. Extrait Extract the C6oose juice, juice, discard the pips, and macerate macerate the lemons in layers layers of kitchen kitchen salt. Remove the lemons from the salt and soak them in cold water several times. times. Boil in water for 24 hours, changing the water fresh fresh water water until the the lemons lemons become become soft. soft. Strain Strain offthe off the water. marinate in the following Dry the lemons and put them to marinate sauce: Pound a a large large onion, onion, a a pimento, pimento, and and a a large large piece of Pound grnger ginger to a fine fine paste paste in a mortar. mortar. (Ginger, (Ginger, as well weil as allspice, aUspice, Bourbon Bourbon saffron and Indian curry powder powder can be bought bought in of Bourbon Bourbon delicatessen shops.) shops.) Add vinegar vinegar and a teaspoon teaspoon of delicatessen best quality olive oil to ensure ensure saffron. Blend with sufficient best completely that the lemons, when packed into jars, will be completely covered. covered. ACHARDS DE DE pALMrsrEs PALMISTES Palmetto achar achar (Creole (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Palnetto Palmettos Palmettos (palm cabbage) cabbage) can can be be bought bought in in delicatessen delicatessen shops. Remove carefully from the can, can, discard discard the the oil in shops. olive which they were packed, and dress with good quality olive oil. ACHARDS os DE rfcuMts LÉGUMES Vegetable achar achar (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Vegetable seeds and and pulp pulp from from I1 or 2 cucumbers, and Remove the seeds Cut cucumbers, cucumbers, pimentos, the insides insides from from 22 large large pimentos. Cut the about several carrots carrots and French beans into into thin strips about and several (11 inches) long. Mix with florets of of cauliflower and 4 cm. (l| roughly chopped cabbage cabbage leaves. leaves. roughly hours. Drain Drain thoroughly, Macerate these these vegetables vegetables for 36 hours. Macerate Lemon dry, and season season with sauce sauce described described in the recipe recipe for Lemon dry, achar above. preserve the achar, spoon into glass preserving preserving jars, jars, To preserve coyer completely completely with good good quality olive oil, and and seal the cover jars jars hermetically. hermetically.

ACACIA-Acacia ACACIA - Acacia blossoms blossoms are are used used for making making fritters and a home-made liqueur. liqueur. Acacia blocsom FRITTERS. blossom fritters -- See FRITTERS. Acacia Hqueuror liqueur or ratafia ratafia -- See LIQUEUR. LIQUEUR.

ACAI\THUS ACANTHUS @rank-ursine). (Brank-ursine). lcaNrHn ACANTHE - This This most decoradecorative plant plant is commonly commonly found in southern France where its elegant, denticulated denticulated leaves leaves are are eaten, eaten, when when young, young, as as a salad. It has emollient emollient qualities. qualities. ACARNE ACARNE -- Name Name given giveil to the European fish fish commonly commonly known known as sea bream. bream. ACAVUS. AcAvE ACAVE - A variety of snail common in French French vineyards and gardens. gardens. ACCOLADE, ACCOLADE, ININ - A A manner manner of of arranging arranging pieces pieces of of the same same nature nature -- meat, meat, poultry, poultry, fish fish -- back back to to back on one dish. This This method of presentation presentation was was much much in vogue vogue in in the olden olden days. method of

Chickens Chickens served served en accolade

ACELIIYE ACELINE -- French French name name for for a a European European fish fish a a little resembling good and and itit isis prepared prepared resembling the the perch. perch. Its Its flesh flesh isis quite good like like perch perch (q.v.). (q.v.). ACET ABULUM. lcfrl.rur.E ACÉTABULE - The ancient Romans used ACETABULUM. the word acetabulum to describe describe the the vessel vessel that held the word acetabulum

AClllLLEA (Milfoil). .lcrtnr6r ACHILLÉE - Plant, Plant, of which which one ACHILLEA

vinegar. vinegar. It lt was was also also used used as a measure measure in medicine. medicine.

Achillea ptarmica, ptarmica, which which grows in woods, is edible. edible. species, Achillea Its tender young young leaves leaves are added added to salads. salads. Its

ACETIC ACETIC ACID. ACID. lcfnqun ACÉTIQUE -- The acid which which forms forms the the basis basis of of vinegar. vinegar. It It is is used used in in cooking sugar sugar in confectionery. confectionery.

ACID.

ACETIFICATION. ACETIFICATION. AcfTIFrcArroN ACÉTIFICATION - The chemical chemical reaction reaction by a a yeast yeast (Mycoderma (Mycoderma aceti). aceti). Aided Aided by by various various caused by caused

lemon juice juice and verjuice. lemon

ACETIMETER.,c,cfnMirns ACETIMETER. ACÉTIMÈTRE -- Instrument Instrument for for assessing assessing the the of concentration concentration of of vinegar. vinegar. degree of degree

ACIDIFIERS (Bilible). (Edible). ACIDIFIANTSACIDIFIANTS - Foods Foods that that build build up an ACIDIFIERS of acid in the the system, system, leading leading to acidification of the excess of body fluids. fluids. body Acid-tasting fruits are not not necessarily necessarily acidifiers; nor nor do Acid-tasting

ACIDE -- A chemical hydrogen hydrogen compound recognisrecognisAcIDE of causing causing litmus solution to turn red. red. by its its property pro pert y of able by

used in cooking are vinegar, The acids most commonly used

industrial VINEGAR), it it transforms transforms wine wine industrial processes processes (see (see VINEGAR), alcohol other alcoholic alcoholic liquid) liquid) into into acetic acetic acid. acid. alcohol (or (or other

2

ACROAMA the acid taste; lemons, for the latter latter necessarily necessarily possess possess an an acid taste; lemons, example, are not acidifiers. Meat pasta and bread bread Meat, game, sea fish, offal, cereals, flour, pasta are fish, eggs, eggs, butter, butter, are powerful acidifiers; acidifiers; ham, freshwater fish, fats, shoots, Brussels hop shoots, Brussels sprouts, fats, chocolate, chocolate, asparagus, asparagus, hop artichokes, onions, onions, chestnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, walnuts, walnuts, hazelnuts and almonds less seriously so.

types are GLAND - Fruit tree. Sorne ACORN. cLAND Fruit of the ttre oak oak tree. Some types and were were eaten by certain Asian peoples before they edible and :rcorns discovered discovered cereals. In sorne some countries, such as Spain, acorns roasted. Acorn flour (which unlike chicory chicory are eaten raw or roasted. for coffee. has is used as aa substitute substitute for used as has costive properties) properties) is roasted acorns of the For this purpose the roasted the ballota oak are most commonly commonly used. used.

-

AcTDTFIER ACIDIFIER - To add add acid acid (lemon juice, vinegar or verjuice) to a culinary preparation. preparation.

ACIDIFY.

A small small shellfish with a BARNACLE. slrlNn BALANE - A ACORN BARNACLE. ail seas, attached to conical irregular shell which is found in all rocks. rocks. It It is is also also commonly called called acorn acorn shell shell and and turban prepared like crab shell.Itsflesh shell. Its fiesh is quite delicate delicate and is prepared crab (q.v.).

ACIDITY. lcIorrf ACIDITÉ -- Acid taste. It exists naturally in certain vegetables and fruit and disappears disappears or diminishes as a result of a'blanching' a 'blanching' operation operation (see BLANCHING). BLANCHING). Nowadays, Nowadays, the the acidity acidity of a a liquid liquid is is measured measured in in pH units; these range from zero, for pure acid (such as as hydrochloric chloric acid), acid), to to 7, 7, which indicates indicates a a completely completely neutral neutral substance. The The scale scale continues above above 7 to indicate indicate degrees degrees of alkalinity alkalinity (opposite of acidity). acidity). The acidity of certain Tbe acidity scale shows shows the the degree of aeidity foods. foods. 14

Acorn barnacles barnacles stuck to a piece piece of of shell

Sodium

ACQUEITE -- An old, spirituous ACQUETTE very aromatic aromatic liquor, spirituous and very much prized in Italy and throughout the south of of France. Its appearance resembles that of Danziger Goldwasser (Danzig (Danzig appearance eau de de ure). vie). There There are are two two varieties: varieties: silver eau silver acquelle acquette (in d'oro). Italian aqua bianca), bianca), and gold acquelle Italian acquette (aqua doro). Silver acquette is made as follows: cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225 s. Ceylon cinnamon Cloyes 25 s. g. (L (1 oz.) Cloves Nutmeg (1 oz.) Nutmeg 25 g. (l 20 litres (4| (4t gallons, 5t 85° alcohol 85" 20litres 5] gallons) Steep these various ingredients in the alcoholfor alcohol for 24 hours, Steep these then distil distil without without rectifying; rectifying; you you will will obtain 20 litres then obtain 20 (4| (41 gallons, gallons, 5f 51 gallons) gallons) liqueur. liqueur. Dissolve 25 25 kg. kg. (55 (55 lb.) (2t gallons, 3 gallons) water and add the sugar in IIII litres (2| of the distillation. distillation. Leave Leave to rest for syrup obtained as as aa result result of syrup crushed silver silver leaf leaf into each the time time required, required, filter filter and put a crushed the each bottle. bottle. go Id acquette take: To prepare gold cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225 s. Ceylon cinnamon 15 s. g. (l (t oz.) Cl oveS Cloves g. G (3 oz.) Angelica roots Angelica 75 e. Crete Daucus of Crete 75 g. (3 oz:) Fresh lemon (peel of) 40 s. g. (r| (lJ oz.) a0 Fresh (4t gallons, 5| 5t gallons) 85° alcohol 20 litres (4| 85'alcohol 20litres Proceed as as for preparing silver acquette, with just one Proceed crushed gold leaf into each bottle. bottle. difference, that you put a crushed

t3 13 12 Sodium cyanide

1- Caffeine 11

Sodium carbonate

10

Phenol Ammonia

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0 -J«1-

\ \o \ {s~ l{l

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8. Bicarbonate ~~c:~~~:;te of soda ~

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ARTERIAl BlOOD 1.1...

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of soda

Soawater

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NEUTRALITY NEUTRALITY

c~1

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Hydrogen

peroxide

SWEAT Zinc chloride Zincchloride

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Lacticacid Lactic acid Orange iuice juice 0range Wine Grape iuice iuice Grapo Lomonjuice Lemon iuice

ACRIDOPHAGE -- One who feeds feeds on locusts. This food ACRIDOPHAGE but it is epicures of Europe, but may seem extraordinary to the epicures quite acceptable acceptable to African gastronomes. gastronomes. It appears appears that that the of locusts locusts resembles, ifif somewhat somewhat remotely, remotely, that of of raw tas te of taste shrimps.

GASTRfC JUIGE JUICE GASIBIC Acaticacid acid Acstic Pi cric scid acid Picric

Hydrochloric acid Hydrochloric

ACROAMA -- A A Greek Greek word, word, adopted adopted by by the the Romans, meaning 'that 'that to which which one one listens', listens', further further extended to meaning pays attention'. mean 'that to which one pays To better entertair entertah their guests, guests, the the patricians made a To habit of of summoning summoning musicians, poets, actors (who enacted, enacted, habit licentious scenes), scenes), men and women dancers, dancers, at times, very licentious jugglers, even gladiators gladiators and jugglers, acrobats, tumblers, tumblers, dwarfs dwarfs and even savage beasts beasts to perform perform while while the meal was in progress. progress. savage acroama meant not only these these To the Romans this word acroama types of entertainment, entertainment, but but also also the the performers performers various types themselves. themselves. acroama continued continued through the cenThe custom of the auoaftro but was renamed renamed entremets entremets ('between courses'). courses'). These turies but common with what what today today describes describes entremets had nothing nothing in common entremets

Acidity scale scale Acidity

ACIDLTLATE. ACIDULA TE. acnurnn ACIDULER - To render render a dish dish slightly acid, sour or piquant piquant by by the addition of of lemon, vinegar, etc. ACIDLJLATED. ACIDULATED. acnulE ACIDULÉ - Term Term which which is is only used used to describe describe mineral minerai waters waters charged charged with with carbonic carbonic acid. acid. ACON ACON -- An An implement implement used by by French mussel mussel farmers to gather gather the the mussels mussels from from the the mussel mussel beds beds in the the cove coye of Aiguillon, near near La Rochelle. Aiguillon, of this this tool tool dates dates back back to antiquity. It It isis mentioned mentioned The use use of The in Charlemagne's Capitularies. 3

ACTINIA ACTINIA course of of vegetables vegetables or or aa sweet sweet course course served served towards towards the the aa course end of meal Acroama, of aa meal. Acroama,and the'spectacular entremets'that and the 'spectacular entremets' that end succeeded it, it, were were enacted all through enacted ail through the the meal. meal. succeeded

juices, remove panjuices, Strain the the pan removeexcess fatand excessfat andreduce reduce totothe Strain the desired consistency. consistency. desired Place the the agami agami on on aaserving serving dish dishsurrounded surroundedby Place bythe the garnishes. Coat with the sauce. Coat with thesauce. garnishes.

(Ser anemone). ACTINIA (Sea anemone). ACTINIE lcnNm -- Although Although actiniae actiniae ACfINIA (stinging) animais, are urticating urticating (stinging) animals, they they are are used as food used as food inin are certain localities. localities. The The inhabitants inhabitants of of southern southern coasts coasts of of certain France relish relish aa species species of of actinia actinia which which they they cali call rastègne rasftgne and and France maintain that that their their taste taste resembles resembles that that of of crabs. crabs. maintain Actiniae have have to to be be thoroughly thoroughly beaten beaten before before cooking cooking to to Actiniae tenderise them. them. They They can can then then be be fried, fried, made made into into fritters, fritters, tenderise omelettes, etc. etc. omelettes,

(Iove feast) AGAPE(Love feast)-- This Thiswas wasthe AGAPE ofthe themeal the name nameof which mealwhich the early early Christians Christians held held together together ininchurch, the church, ininmemory memory of of the Last Last Supper. Supper. The The Council the Council of of Carthage abolished the Carthage abolished the agapes in in A.D. a.o.397 put an 397in n order agapes order totoput anend endto tothe thecalumnies calumniesof of which they theywere which were the theobject. object. The meals meals held held by The earlyChristians by the theearly Christians ininthe thecatacombs catacombs inin memory of memory of the the martyrs martyrs were were also also called calledagapes. agapes. This word word nowadays nowadays isisused This used to todefine define an an important importantfamily family meal. meal.

ADOC -- Name Name sometimes given to sometimes given to sour sour milk. milk. ADOC ADLTLTERATION. FALSIFICATION FALsrFrcArroN -- A A deliberate deliberate lowering lowering ADULTERATION. quality of of the the quaJity foodstuffs for purpose of foodstuffs for the the pur gain. of illicit illicit gain. of pose of

(Bengal isinglass) AGAR-AGAR productobtained isinglass) -- AA product AGAR-AGAR (Bengal obtained from from various various seaweeds, seaweeds, known known also also as as Japanese Japanese moss, moss,Ceylon Ceylon moss. MOSS. Agar-agar Agar-agar isis collected collected in in the the form form of crinkly, whitish, of thin, thin, crinkly, whitish, transparent transparent strips. strips. ItIt swells swells slightly slightly inin cold coldwater water and and conconsiderably siderably so so in in boiling boiling water, water, in in which which itit finally finally dissolves. dissolves. AA jelly can fairly fairly stiff stiff jelly can be be obtained obtained from from it,it, which which isis used usedinin bacteriology. bacteriology. Its Its neutral neutral taste taste makes makes itit suitable suitable for for use incooking usein cookingand and jellies. confectionery, confectionery, and and fot for making making jellies. ItIt isis by regurgitating seaweed by regurgitating seaweed of of this that the salanthis type type that the salangane (Chinese swalIow) gane (Chinese prized by swallow) builds builds its its nest, nest, so so much much prized by the me of'bird's the Chinese Chinese under under the the na name of 'bird's nest', nest', for for which whichfactoryfactorymade passed-off in made agar-agar agar-agar isis often often passed-off in the West. the West. Agar-agar toms Agar-agar always always contains contains the the carapaces carapaces of of dia diatoms (microscopic (microscopic unicellular unicellular algae) algae) easiJy easily identifiable identifiable under under the the microscope. microscope. This possible the This factor factor makes makes possible rapid detection the rapid detection of any fraudulent the product. fraudulent use product. ofany use of ofthe

/SGINETIA. JEGINETIE .EcrNErrE -- The The type genus of plant, type genus A:GINETIA. of this this plant, Eginetia indica, indica, isis indigenous indigenous to to the the East East Indies. Indies. The /Eginetia The natives natives of the coast coast of of Malabar Malabar cali call itit tsiem-cumulu tsiem-cumulu and of and blend with blend itit with nutmeg and and sugar (chewingsugar to to form form an an excellent excellent mascatory nutmeg mascatory (chewinggum) used used for for strengthening strengthening the gum) the teeth teeth and and combating combating bad bad breath. OF RHODES. RHODES. AEGIS mcn DE DE RHODES RHoDEs -- One AEGIS OF One of of the the seven seven great masters masters of of ancient ancient Greek (third century Greek cuisine cuisine (third great century B.C.). B.c.). in the the art art of of cooking cooking fish. He excelled in fish. Word used AFFINAGE -- Word used in in the the French French cheese cheese industry industry to to process of describe the the process of ripening ripening or describe or maturing maturing cheese cheese in in temperature'controlled tempera ture-controlJed cellars. cellars.

AFFRIANDER -- French French cuJinary AFFRIANDER culinary term term which which means means to to tempt; to pleasant appearance tempt; to attract attract by by the pleasant appearance of of aa dish. dish. AFTER-TASTE. ,mn$nr-co0r -- Taste AFfER-T ASTE. ARRIÈRE-GOÛT Taste that that returns returns to to the the mouth after ingestion of certain foods mouth foods and and beverages. beverages.

AGARIC AGARIC -- A A family family of of fungi fungi with with aa compact compact cap cap and and radiatradiating gills, that grows profusely profusely in places, ing gilIs, that grows in damp damp and and shaded shaded places, and and isis also also found found in in fields, fields, on on tree tree trunks, trunks, in in caves caves and and on on decayed decayed wood. wood. There There are are about about 2000 known species 2000 known speciesof of agarics quite aa large agarics and and quite large number number of are edible. of them them are edible. The The poisonous poisonous species genus called species are are chiefly found among chiefly found among the the genus called Amanita. Amanita. Among Among the the edible edible agarics agarics are are the the following: following: Edible grown inin the Edible agaric agaric or or cultivated cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms, grown the quarries quarries around around Paris Paris -- the the c1assic classic type mushroom. This This type of of mushroom. is is often described under often described term champignon champignon without without any any under the the tenn other qualification. other qualification.

AGAMI (Trumpeter) -- A bird of of the wader wader family family of of which which

the the Guiana agami agami is is typicaJ. typical. Its Its flesh flesh has appreciable merit. has appreciable merit. The The agami agami is is used used in in cookery cookery mainly mainly in in South South America, America, boiled boild in consommé consomm6 or braised with rice. pleasant flavour Its flesh has has a pleasant flavour but is is rather dry, dry, although although less so so in the domesticated domesticated bird.

Agami Agami

àh la chilienne chilienne -- Choose Choose as Agami tr as tender an an agami agami as as posc1ean it. it. Prepare Prepare aa garnish of singe and clean sible. Pluck, draw, singe of rice cooked in fat stock with with pimentos. Bard Bard it put to it and and put to braising pan with with the the usual usual accompaniments accompaniments of braise in a braising of vegetables and and spices, spices, and some sorne dry dry white white wine. wine. vegetables medium-sized braise in in veal veal jelly jelly stock stock 12 Separately, braise 12 medium-sized onions stuffed stuffed with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweet pimentos onions sweet pimentos blended with with a a few few tablespoons of of reduced reduced velouté velouti (q.v.). Prepare also also 450 450 g. g. (l (lIb.) Okra in in tomato tomato sauce sauce (sec, (see OKRA). Prepare lb.) Okra OKRA). As soon soon as as the the agami agami is is cooked, cooked, remove rem ove from the braising braising As from the Glaze itit in in the the oven. oyen. pan. Glaze pan.

A agaric which underside of the cap A type ofagaric which has type of has very very distinctive distinctive ridges ridges on on the the underside ofthe cap

4

AILLADE AILLADE Ingredients. Ingredients. 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., I1cup) cup) sweet sweet almonds' almonds, I1litre litre

Royalagaric, agaric,agaric agaricodorain odorainor or St. St.George's George'sagaric agaricand andthe the Royal cultivatedagaric agaricare arealso also found found ininthe theParis Parisregion' region. cultivated Among the the poisonous poisonous species species are are Amanita Amanita phalloides phalloides Among (death cap) cap) and and Amanita Amanita vernn verna (glll) (gill)(see (seeMUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS) . (death Toprepare prepareedible edibleagarics, agarics, saute sautéininaa shallow shallowpan panininoil oil or or To butter ; dress dress with with herbs, herbs, Creon Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), rià /ala butter; provençale, dà la la bordelarse bordelaise (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). They They can can provmgale, also be be used used as as aa garnish garnish for for aa large large number number of ofdishes. dishes. also

(I~ f,ints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) verjuice, verjuice, tt litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 1tfi Z*hipO 2* cups)waier waterand and 150 150g.g.(5(5oz., oz.,! cup)brown brown or orgranulated granulated I cup)

sugar. sugar. -Method

Method ofofpreparation' preparation. Blanch Blanch the the almonds almonds after after having having scalded scalded them them with with boiling boilingwater. water. Pound Pound them them ininaamortar mortaras as ofthe thewater' water. finely as aspossible, possible, moistening moisteningthem them with with aa little littleof finely When thiy theyform When fonn aapaste, paste,dilute dilutewith with the the rest restof ofthe the water waterand and verjuice putunder under aa press press verjuice and and strain strain through through aa napkin, napkin, then th en put

AGATHON -- Poet, Poet, born born in in Athens, Athens, and and not not in in Samos, Samos, as as AGATHON certain authors authors maintain. main tain. certain sumptuous repasts repasts gave gave rise rise to to aa great great deal deaJ of ofjesting jesting His sumptuous His on the the part part of of Aristophanes Aristophanes and and other other dramatists. dramatists. Some Sorne on Banquet was was composed composed at at his his table. table. people claim claim that that Plato's Plato's Banquet people

to It dl' dl. (t (! pint, pint, !f cup) cup) white white vinegar vinegar to lxtract extract all ail the the liquid. liquid . l+ combined with with I1litre litre (lf (là- pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water water may may combined he substituted substituted for for the the verjuice verjuice and and water. water. be Sweeten the the liquid Iiquid with with the the brown brown sugar' sugar, or' or, ifif this this isis not not Sweeten available, available, granuhted granulated sugar, sugar, and and strain strain through through aa napkin napkin once once again, again, but but this this time time without without pressing. pressing. Stand in an an ice ice bucket, bucket, surrounded surrounded by by aa mixmixStand this this mixture mixture in ture of of crushed cru shed ice ice and and sea sea salt salt (coarse (coarse salt), salt), allowing allowing l0 10 per per ture of salt, salt, and and leave leave to to chill' chilI. Loosen Loosen the the parts parts which which get get cent of cent stuck stuck to to the the sides sides of of the the ice ice bucket bucket about about every every 15 J 5 minutes' minutes. When When the the whole whole mixture mixture acquires acquires aa granulated granulated texture, texture, serve serve it in sherbet sherbet glasses, glasses, adding adding half ha If aa coffeespoon coffeespoon of of kirsch kirsch to to each each glass. glass. AGUAXIMA of Brazilian Brazilian pepper pepper not not very very difdifAGUAXIMA - A A species species of ferent from ordinary ordinary PePPer. pepper. A fruit AGLJNCAIB.lcuNclriAGUNCATE. AGUNCATÉ-A fruit grown grown in in Peru,calledpalta Peru, calledpalta in Lima. Lima. ItIt isis shaped shaped like like aa calabash calabash (gourd), (gourd), is is green green in in colour colour and has has a varniJhed varnished appearance. appearance. Its Its skin skin comes cornes away away from from the flesh easily when the fruit fruit is ripe. ripe. This This flesh, flesh, somewhat somewhat in common common with insipid, is eatCn eaten with salt. It It has something in with (q'v.). of avocado the flesh of avocado Pear pear (g .v.).

of South South American American plants plants belonging beJonging to to AGA VE -- A A genus genus of AGAVE Agavaceae -- aa native native of of Mexico. Mexico. In In Cuba Cuba and and the family family Agavaceae the Mexico its its pulp pulp isis fermented fennented to to make make an an alcoholic alcoholic beverage beverage Mexico pulque. called pulque. called AGNOLOTTI. Agnoloffi Agnolotti ià la la pi6montaise piémontaise (Italian (ltalian cookery) cookery)AGNOLOTTI. Prepare aa noodle noodle paste paste in in the the following following manner: manner: put put 450 450 g. g. Prepare lb., 44 cups) cups) flour flour in in aa circle circle or or 'fountain' 'fountain' on on aa table. table. In In the the (l(I lb., middle of of this tbis circle circle put put 44 egg egg yolks, yolks, 20 20 g. g. (a (a generous generous tabletablemiddle of salt salt and I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant spoon) butter, butter, aa pinch pinch of spoon) cup) water. water. *t cup) Knead for l0 10 minutes minutes but but avoid avoid giving giving too too much much body body to to Knead the paste. paste. Allow Allow to to rest rest for l0 10 minutes. the out the the paste paste with aa rolling-pin rolling-pin as as thinly thinly as possible. possible. Roll out Roll Place walnut-sized walnut-sized pieces pieces of of forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, FORCEMEAT, Place Beefforcemeat) forcemeat) along it in a horizontal line, spacing them Beef 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) from from the the edge edge of the the paste paste and and 5 cm. cm. (2 (2 inches) 5 inches) from from each each other. other. inches) Fold the overIapping over this row of edge of the paste over Fold overlapping edge agnolotti. Press down heap of forcemeat, to each heap around each down around agnolotti. Press make the paste stick the agnolotti with a agnolotti with Cut out out the well. Cut stick weil. the paste make crescent-shaped, pastry-cutter, thus thus obtaining fluted-edged pastry-cutter, crescent-shaped, fluted-edged little little turnovers. turnovers. Poach l0 minutes, minutes, allowing for 10 water for in boiling boiling water them in Poach them 22 teaspoons quart) water. generous quart) (lfà- pints, pints, generous per litre litre (1 salt per teaspoons salt Drain, dish.. place in in aa dish Drain, and and place Make from the left over over from beef left the braised braised beef from the sauca from Make aa sauce forcemeat. with the cheese with grated Pannesan Parmesan cheese and grated Serve this and forcemeat. Serve agnolotti agnolotti..

medica) -(French name for Citr~ Citnrs medica) CDDRE (French AIGRE DE AIGRE DE CÈDRE Dame for Grasse around Grasse in Provence, Provence, around cultivated of a citron tree cultiva Fruit of ted in It Italy. It in Italy. Genoa in near Genoa and near Remo and at San San Remo Nice, also also at and Nice, and drink. summer drink. makes a very refreshing summer cut slice cut thin slice means aa thin An aiguillette aiguillette means AIGUILLETTE -- An game. poultry and winged game. and winged the breast of poultry on the lengthways on describe to describe be used used to only he should only speaking, the word should Slrictly speaking, Strictly thin to thin referring to when used wh often used fowl, but itit isis often slices of fowl, thin slices en referring tbin into aiguillettes' aiguillettes'.. 'cut aa fillet beef into of beef fillet of e.g., 'cut meat, e.g., slices of of meat, slices (see BEEF). BEEF). rump (see top rump the top describe the used to to descrihe is a/so also used Aiguillette is Aiguillette

AGONE Italy itit isis In Italy (Smarh graerlis). graerlis). AGON AcoN -- ln D'ISTRIA (Smaris AGOIYE D'ISTRIA known the has much much the indeed itit has and indeed of sardina sardina and name of the name known under under the same All the the sardine. Ali the sardine. size to to the in size similar in and isis similar flavour and same flavour recipes Like (q.v.) can to it. it. Like applied to be applied can he given for sardines (q.v.) for sardines recipes given sardines, salted.. be salted can be sardines, agone agone can AGORANOME Greece. in ancient ancient Greece. of markets markets in Inspector of AGORANOME -- Inspector He for responsible for produce and was responsible and was price of of produce the price He controlled controlled the the The markets. The to its its markets. laws relating relating to the laws of the the implementation implementation of agoranome the of the aedile of to the the aedile Greeks corresponds corresponds to of the the Greeks agoraiome of Romans. Romans. AGOU small-grain resembles small-grain sd8'o resembles negroes' sago or negroes' AGOU -- Agou Agou or millet. yellow with aa yellow colour with brownish-grey colour grain isisof of brownish-grey Thisgrain millet. This spot made rice. Flour Flour made likerice. cooked like stem.ItIt isiscooked thestem. it joins the spot where where itjoins from porridge. cakesand andporridge. makecakes to make used to from itit isis used AGOUTI (where Brazil(where found ininBrazil hare found sizeof the size ofaahare Rodent the AGOUTI -- Rodent ilit isiscalled and Republic, and Dominican Republic, theDominican Guiana, the calledcotia), cotia), Guiana, generally liveinin canlive The agouti agouti can Indies.The WestIndies. theWest generallythroughout throughoutthe Europe cold. protected from from the thecold. Europeififititisisprotected The rather theflavour flavourisisrather goodtotoeat, though the eat,even eventhough fleshisisgood The flesh strong. (seePORK, pig(see Piglet). PORK, Piglet). preparedlike likesucking suckingpig strong. ItItisisprepared

Agouti Agouti

which France,which ofFrance, southof thesouth usedininthe Definition used AILLADE - - Definition AILLADE (Languedoc or Provence) orProvence) district (Languedoc thedistrict according totothe applies,according applies, garlic allgarlic areaH butare somewhat but differsomewhat preparationswhich which differ totopreparations based. based. (q-v.)' garlicvinaigrette vinaigrette (q.v.), sortofofgarlic santce,aasort ailladesauce, Firstly,ail/ade Firstly, garnishes' othergarnishes. andother chivesand shallots, chives includingshallots, sometimesincluding sometimes

AGRAS more bemore beverage;totobe icedbeverage; anAigerian Algerianiced Agrasisisan AGRAS- - Agras precise, and almondsand arealmonds ingredientsare graniti.Its Itsmain main ingredients precise,aagranité. verjuice. verjuice.

5

AIOLI AÏOLI Aillade sauce sauceisisserved served with withco cold meatand potatoes andfish, fish, with withpotatoes Aillade Id meat generally, with and, generally, with ail alldishes dishes served servedàdlalavinaigrelle. vinaigrette. and, Secondly, bread bread àd l'aillade, I'aillade,aa slice slice of of toasted toasted bread, bread, Secondly, thoroughly rubbed rubbed with garlic and with garlic andsprinkled sprinkled with with olive olive oil. oil. thoroughly provengal aillade This provençal aillade isisthe the equivalent equivalent of the Languedocian of the Languedocian This (garlic-rubbed chapon (garlic-rubbed bread). bread). chapon Certain authors authors also also mention mention other other regional regional preparations preparations Certain known under under the the name name of of aillade. aillade. Among Among these theseare: ari: known Aillade albigeoise albigeoise which which isis nothing nothing more more than than an an aïoli atoli Aillade (q.v.). Aillade d la la toulousaine toulousaine which which isisalso also an anaïoli atoliwithblanched with blanched pounded walnuts and pounded walnuts added. added. and these preparations preparations are are very very appetising but but something something Ali these of-All an acquired acquired taste, taste, garlic being being their outstanding outstanding characcharacof an teristic. Tbey They are are excellent for for seasoning seasoning salads. salads. teristic. AIOLIoT IILLOLI -- Peel Peel4 pound and pound AÏOLI or AILLOU 4 large cloves of garlic, and to aa fine paste in fine paste in aa mortar mortar with I egg yolk. Season Season with with aa to pinch of of salt, salt, and and continue continue to pound, adding 21to pound, (scant 2| dl. dl. (scant generous cup) cup) olive olive oil oil little little by by little, little, as ] pint, generous as for ior mayonmayonnaise. Stir Stir this this mixture mixture vigorously. vigorously. When When finished, finished, itit should should have the the appearance appearance of of aa thick thick smooth smooth m'lyolnn.ais;e. mayonnaise. have Aioli isis served served mainly mainly with with boiled boiled fish, fish, hot or or cold, cold, but but Afoli can also also be be served served with with cold cold meal, meat, or or used used as as aa seasoning seasoning for for can salads and and cooked cooked vegetables. vegetables. salads Garnishod aïoli. aio[. AÏOLI .liou GARNI cARNr -- This This dish, dish, very popular in Garnish.ed Provence, is is composed of of aa variety of of inl~re:dilmt.s, ingredients, such as Provence, boiled cod, cod, snails cooked cooked in in salt water, water, fennel, onions onions boiled stuck withcloves, with cloves, boiled boiled carrots, carrots, french french beans, beans, artichokes artichokes stuck cooked in in salt salt water, water, unskinned potatoes, bard-boiled unskinned potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, eggs, cooked etc. Small Small octopi, boiJed boiled in in salted salted water with herbs, herbs, are are somesomeetc. times added. All these are arranged on aa large dish and and served served with aïoli. aioli. with The preparation of of this this dish, says J. B. Reboul, one J. B. one of the the The maitres provengale, demands aa great cuisine provençale, great deal deal of of maitres de la cuisine artistic arrangement. arrangement. Not Not ail all the ingredients whicb which we we have artistic enumerated, however, are absolutely essential. There is is no no enumerated, however, are set rule point. One on this this point. One should proceed proceed according to to one's set rule on tastes and the tas tes and the means means at one's disposal. Aidi la grecqrre -- A kind of vinaigrette sauce sauce which which is Aïoli ili la A kind prepared combine pounded walnuts, prepared as as follows: combine walnuts, almonds and and soaked in in and hazelnuts hazelnuts with fresh fresh breadcrumbs sieved and milk, pounded garlic. garlic. Blend BJend with oil, vinegar and lemon milk, and and pounded juice. juice. Serve Serve with with fried fried and boiled boiled fish.

Albatross Albatross

ALBUIERA @') - Definition applying to various kinds of ALBUFÉRA dishes chiefly chieflyCh,naictenStxj characterised by the sauce which goes with dishes them. them. Theterm term d'AlbuJéra d'Albufdra was probably first was probably first used usedeither either by by _The Car6me or or by by his his successor successor Plumerey, Plumerey,so Carême sothe the recipefor for Duckling àdlalad'AlbuJéra d'Albufirais almost certainly Duckling is almost certainly the authenticone. one. differs slightly slightly from from the themodem modern version. ItIt differs version. Marshal Suchet Suchet was was made made Duke Duke of Marshal ofAlbuféra Albuf6rainin1812 l812 after after the victories victories of of Oropéza, Orop6za, M Murviedro urviedro and the and Valencia Valenciainin Spain. The lake lake of of Albuféra (See DUCK. Albuf6ra isis near near Valencia. The Valencia. (See cHrcKEN.) CHICKEN.)

ALBUMEN -- AA constituent constituent of ALBUMEN of seeds seeds containing containing food food reserves for plant in for the the plant reserves in germination. Albumen Albumen isissometimes sometimes farinaceous, as as in in cerealssuch such as asmaize, farinaceous, maize, barley, barley, corn corn and and rye; sometimes sometimes oily oily or or fleshy fleshy as rye; as in in coconut palm and coconut palm and in in black black poppy. In In certain palms itit acquires certain palms poppy. acquires the the hardness hardness of of ivory. ivory. The albumen albumen contained contained in The in coconuts coconuts isis in in the the fonn form of of an an layer surrounding outer layer surrounding the outer the inner inner cavity that that contains contains the the liquid commonly commonly known known as liquid ut milk. as cocon coconut

grain or Section of Section a grain corn showing ofa ofcorn showing albumen the albumen the

Many types of grain are are used for for their their albumen albumen in in domestic domestic economy, in medicine and economy, and in in the the arts. cereals provide provide arts. Thus Thus cereals us with with flour; us flour; the the coffee coffee shrub shrub wüh with an an alkaloid known known as as caffeine; the the black poppy with black poppy poppyseed oil, with poppyseed oil, used used almost almost unlve:rSélllv universally as as aa food. food. The The seeds seeds of certain species of of waterwaterlilies, very pleasant to the palate, lilies, palate, are much much used in Cbina and China and Vietnam as as food. The kernels of a species grows species of pine that grows in in Provence Provence and and Italy contain contain an an oily, oily, delicately flavoured albumen, which makes them much valued valued in in confectionery, confectionery, particularly in the manufacture manufacture of sugared pine nuts. nuts. Several Several species species of of palm tree provide provide both edible oil and and oil for lighting. Linseed Linseed oil oil cornes ing. comes from the seeds seeds of flax. species of A species of dwarf dwarf palm, found produces aa large found in Peru, produces cabezo de fruit which the natives call call cana or cabezo de negro. negro, When is green, the tbe albumen'of albumen· of its its seeds the fruit is the seeds is is aa pleasanttasting liquid which, when fermented, yields aa wine that that is is mu ch appreciated by the the Peruvians. The fruit, when wh en ripe, much The fruit, ripe, be put put to the the same same uses uses as ivory; becomes very hard and can be as ivory; in fact fact itil is is exported under under the the name name of of raw raw ivory or vegetable in or vegetable ivory. When When burned, burned, the the product product obtained obtained compares compares ivory. obtained from from eleelefavourably with ivory black, which is obtained phants' teeth teeth and and tusks. phants'

AISY left over from the AISY - Name Name given given to the (soured) (soured) whey !eft scalding scalding of of milk milk used used in in the production prod uction of Gruytre. This whey whey is is used used to to make cheeses cbeeses of an an inferior quality called serai.The serai. The aisy aisy is is stored stored in barrels and added to daily &s more whey whey becomes becomes available. ALARIA of seaweed of which five five species are ALARIA - A A genus genus of found in the the seas seas ofnorthern of northern Europe. Europe. found in One One variety, variety, known known as as badderlocks badderIocks in in Scotland Scotland and murlins murlins in in Ireland, Ireland, flourishes flourishes along along the the Atlantic Atlantic coast coast of of the British British Isles. Isles. It It is is eaten eaten in Scotland, in lreland, Ireland, and in the Faroe Faroe Islands. Islands.. Only Only the the slightly sligbtly sweet central central cartilaginous cartilaginous vein is consumed. consumed. vein is

ALBACORE ALBACORE (Yellowfin (YeLlowfin tura) tuBa) -- A A large large species of tunny tunny (tuna) (tu na) fish. fish. This This isis also also the the Portuguese Portuguese word word for for the the swordswordfish fish (q.v.). (q.v.).

ALBARELLE of edible edible fungi fungi which which grows grows on on ALBARELLE -- A A genus of chestnut chestnut trees trees and and white poplars. poplars.

ALBUMIN. ALBUMIN.

ALBUMINE - Viscous whitish matter matter with with aa ALBUMTNE whitish - Viscous slightly salty salty taste. taste. An example is is white white of of egg, egg, which which conconslightly 59 per per cent cent of ofits i18 total total weight weight (see (see EGGS). EGGS). tains albumin albumin up up to to 59 tains A}bumin is is also also found in ln blood blood serum, serum, in in milk milk and and in in Albumin of dried dried vegetables. It It is is for for plants, particularly in in the the seeds seeds of plants, this reason reason that that the water water in in which which peas, peas, beans and and lentils lentils this

ALBATROSS. ALBATROSS. lrs.{rnm ALBATROS -- Sea Sea bird bird with with very tough tough flesh. flesh. That That ofthe of the young young bird bird isis eaten, eaten, nevertheless, nevertheless, and isis prepared prepared like like Wild Wild &tck duck (see (see DUCK). DUCK). ALBIGEOISE ALBIGEOISE-- Garnish Garnish for for large large and and small small cuts cuts of ofmeat. meat. It It consists consists of ofstuffed stuffed tomatoes tomatoes and and potato potato croquettes. croquettes. 6

ALCAZAR ALCAZAR in and brown them them in onions and pimentos and Method. Slice Slice the onions Method. garlic. Sprinkle stir, with flour, flour, stir, Sprinkle with slightly crushed crushed garlic. butter. Add slightly (which has has been meat (which been and add add the the meat lightly, and to brown brown lightly, allow to Add the the egg egg and and and seasoning. seasoning. Add minced), breadcrumbs, and minced), water, of the stock stock or or boiling boiling water, well. Moisten with aa little of blend weil. quarter of an hour. hour. for aa quarter of an and leave leave to to sim simmer and mer for pastry into aa pastry still hot, hot, into mixture, while while still Put this this forecemeat forecemeat mixture, Put saucepan ring. Hold Hold the the bag bag over over aa saucepan forcing-bag fitted fitted with aa ring. small slices slices of of the the squeeze; cut cut off off small stock and and squeeze; of boiling boiling stock of quenelles the bag. bag. Sim Simmer these quenelles of the sausage as it it cornes comes out out of mer these sausage,as pan. lid off leaving the the lid off the the pan. in the boiling stock stock leaving in in butter, butter, and and add add them them soften them them in Chop the the tomatoes, tomatoes, soften Chop just before served. is served. to the the soup soup just before itit is to

Albumin is are cooled. Albumin are cooked cooked becomes becomes viscous viscous when when cooJed. soluble in water in its raw state but coagulates coagulates at aa temperaand then becomes insoluble. ture of 78-80°e. 78-80'C. (172-176"F.) (l72-l76°F.) and Albumin in the form of of aa thin yellowish transparent sediment can be obtained by evaporating the white of egg egg at at a the white (122"F.). temperature of about 50°e. 50'C. (l22°F.). Albumin is used in the confectionery confectionery industry as as aa substitute for white of egg in the manufacture manufacture of certain kinds of of liquorice, Montélimar Montelimar whisked pastes pastes such as marshmallow, whisked marshmallow, liquorice, nougat and various meringue products. as an It is also an egg egg substitute in in the the manufacture manufacture of of also used used as cheap biscuits and almond paste. Before use it has has to be disId water. cold solved in about seven times its weight of co Albumin in the form of beaten whites of egg is used in the clearing of of wine.

ALBUMINOIDS. ALBUMINOïDES -- Substances ALBUMINOIDS.,c,rnuMNoioEs Substances possessing properties akin albumin (coagulable by by heat), akin to to those those of albumin proteinic substances. also called nitrogenous, quaternary or proteinic They exist in animal or vegeveg€all living organisms, organisms, whether animal in ail table. Chemical analysis same four four basic basic elements: elements: analysis reveals the same carbon, hydrogen, oxygen in varyoxygen and and nitrogen nitrogen associated in ing quantities with other elements. Albuminoids constitute of ttre essential elements elements of constitute one one of the our the only only our diet. diet. Of all the the substances we we generally eat, eat, the Of aU ones lacking in albuminoids albuminoids are those which have undergone undergone an industrial purifying process su ch as sugar. such as oil oil and and sugar. ln In dietetics, dietetics, an an increased increased ration ration of of albuminoids albuminoids is is ococcasionally prescribed (in cases of malnutrition, etc.) but more casionally prescribed more frequently the is reduced albuminoids in the the diet diet is the amount of albuminoids prowhen, for for example, the kidneys fail fail to to eliminate eliminate waste procxample, the ducts transform them. ducts or the liver is unable to transform Without going to reproducing specialist specialist Without going to the the extent extent of of reproducing tables possible to divide albuminoid or or tables of of analyses, analyses, itit is is possible to divide nitrogenous food food into four categories: categories: Very po or in (less than green vegepoor in albumins albumins (less than 1I per cent): cent): green tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, cream, cream, butter, butter, honey, sugar, oils. Poor (up (up to green cabspinach, artichokes, green cabto 66 per cent): cent): spinach, bages, Brussels uts, green peas, cocoa, green peas, cocoa, chestnuts, Biussels sprouts, bages, sprouts, chestn chocolate. Rich (6 to per cent): Rich (6 cereals, noodles, to 12 12 per cent): bread, bread, Bours, flours, cereals, eggs. eggs. Very (I2 to per cent): hazelVery rich rich (12 cent): walnuts, walnuts, almonds, almonds, hazelto 30 30 per nuts, peas, lentils, dried peas, lentils, various meats, nuts, various meats, fish, fish, dried dried beans, beans, dried beans, peas, cheeses. beans, chick peas, cheeses.

(Water cooler). ALCARRAZA The French French cooler). ALCARAZAS ALcARAZAS -- The ALCARRAZA (Water have the Spanish, Spanish, who who in in turn turn from the have borrowed borrowed this this word word from (pitcher). In borrowed itit from alkourraz (pitcher). In Egypt, Egypt, from the the Arabic Arabic alkourraz 'the alcarraza the has become the French French become the this has bardak; this called bardak; alcarraza isis called probably barclague balasse. Bardak Bardak isis aa Turkish Turkish word word probably bardague and and balasse. stemming bara, meaning meaning to to cool, cool, and and root bara, stemming from from the the Arabic Arabic root (meaning, like from like alcarraza, frorn which barradn (meaning, alcarraza, aa which isis derived derived barrada vessel vessel for liquids) and and the the Spanish word albarrada. albarrada. for cooling cooling liquids) Spanish word jugs of These porous, unglazed various shapes shapes are are filled filled These porous, unglazed jugs of various with shade in in aa draught. The water water with water water and and hung hung in in the the shade draught. The jug and oozes pores of The of the the jug and evaporates. evaporates. The through the the pores oozes through hotter air, the the hotter the the outside temperature and and the the drier drier the the air, outside temperature quicker quicker the heat necessary necessary for for evaporation evaporation the evaporation. evaporation. The The heat jug, which isis extracted frorn the liquid inside inside the the jug, which isis thus thus extracted from the liquid cooled. eooled.

ALBUNDIGAS - The (Mexican cookery) ALBUNDIGAS (M~xican cookery) The originof origin of albundigas appears to In Mexico Mexico itit to be be Spanish Spanish or or Mexican. In is is almost aa national national dish. Combine (l lb.) g. (l Ib.) finely finely choppedfillet Combine 450 450 g. chopped fillet of of beef beef and and 100 (a oz.) g. (4 100 g. oz.) fairly coarsely coarsely chopped chopped fat fat bacon. Season with with bacon. Season salt and pepper. Add aa little garlic and pepper.Add little crushed and aa teaspoon of of crushed garlic chopped parsley, and into thickish chopped parsley, and bind with an an egg. egg. Shape Shape into cakes. an ovenproof dish and and cakes. Fry in clarified butter. Put Put into ovenproof dish into an coyer for 20 20 minutes. sauce. Cook the oyen oven for minutes. in the cover with with tomato tomato sauce. Cook in Serve (see RICE). Rice àd la criole (see Serve with Rice la créole RICE). Albundigas Albundigas can frorn aa mixture mixture of of veal veal and and can also also be be made made from pork. The me : The Mexicans also also have have aa soup soup called called by this na name: by this Ingredients. (5f pints, pints, 6t pints) light light stock Ingredients. For For 33 litres litres (st stock or or 6| pints) water, take 225 g. (8 oz.) g. (8 pork, veal veal or mediumtake225 oz.) fiUet fillet of of pork, or beef, beef, 55 mediumsized peeled and garlic,44 green green pimentos, pimentos, 33 peeled and sized onions, onions, aa clove clove of of garlic, deseeded (2 oz., g. (2 tablespootts oz., tI cup) deseeded tomatoes, 50 g. cup) butter, butter, 22 tablespoons tomatoes, 50 (3 (3 tablespoons) amount of of sieved flour, the sieved the same tablespoons) wheat wheat ftour, same amount breadcrumbs, or, better better still, still, or thyme, thyme, or, breadcrumbs, I teaspoon teaspoon coriander coriander or marjoram, and 1I egg and more delicate delicate Bavour, flavour, 1I egg marjoram, which which has has aa more tablespoon tablespoon salt. salt.

paste ALCAZAR (Pâtisserie) - Line Lining paste with Lining Line aa sponge tin with sponge tin ALCAZAR(PSfisserie)(see (see DOUGH). with 22 tabletableand spread spread with Prick the the bottom bottom and DOUGH). Prick jam. Fil spoons (3 tablespoons) Fill1 three-quarters of apricot jam. three-quarters of spoons (3 tablespoons) apricot the following mixture: the tin tin with with the the following mixture: g oz., Ingredients. g. (4 icing sugar, sugar, 44 egg egg whites, 125 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) icing whites, Ingredients. 125 60 (2 oz., (2 oz., g. (2 gtound almonds, almonds, 60 60 g. oz., tI cup) cup) Bour, flour, cup) ground ffi g.e.Q oz., tI cup) 25 g. (l melted butter, kirsch. 25 g. oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted butter, kirsch. Q oz., Method whites preparation. Beat and the the egg egg wrutes Beat the the sugar sugar and Method of of preparation. en add over .over gentle ground gentle heat firm meringue, meringue, th then add ground heat to to obtain obtain aa firm almonds, half aa finally, melted melted butter butter mixed mixed with with half almonds, Bour flour and, and, finally, wine kirsch. Spread glass of and Boured floured baking baking wine glass ofkirsch. Spread on on aa buttered buttered and sheet. (350'F., Gas Bake in sheet. Bake in the the {)ven at 180°e. 180"C. (350°F., Mark 4) 4) for for Gas Mark 'oven at 50 minutes and and turn out onto onto aa wire wire tray. tray. 50 to to 60 6O minutes tum out Fit pipe, and piping-bag with and fill fill with with unFit aa cloth cloth piping-bag with aa ftuted fluted pipe, uncooked paste in proportion of in the 450 g.g. (l(l lb.) lb.) to to cooked almond almond paste the proportion of 450 450 (l lb.) (see (see ALMOND, paste 1). g. (lIb.) 450 g. 1). Pipe latticeALMOND, Almond Almond paste Pipe aa latticework pastry, then pipe aa border. in aa hot work over Place in hot oyen oven over the the pastry, then pipe border. Place to our the jam paste. Coyer with thick thick apricot to col colour almond paste. apricot jam the almond Cover with and a pistachio each lozenge. put half pistachio nut lozenge. in the and put halfa nut in the centre centre of ofeach As paste border As an an alternative an almond almond paste apricot alternative to to an border use use apricot jam jam sprinkled sprinkled with chopped roasted roasted almonds. almonds. with chopped

Alcarazza Alcarazza

t

7

ALCOHOL ALCOHOL ALCOHOL. ALCOOL ALcooL - - Liquid Liquid obtained obtained by by distilling distilling ferferALCOHOL. mented liquors. liquors. mented In chemistry, chemistry, ail all organic substances composed organic substances composed of of carbon, carbon, ln hydrogen and and oxygen, oxygen, capable capable of of being being combined combined into into an an hydrogen acid to to form form an an ether, ether, are are defined defined as as alcohol. alcohol. We We shall shall deal deal acid only with with ethyl ethyl alcohol alcohol or or wine wine alcohol, alcohol, also alsocalled called wine wine only spirit. ItIt isis the principal product product of the principal of the the fermentation fermentation of of sweet sweet spirit. liquids formed formed by by the the double double decomposition decomposition of ofglucose under liquids glucose under yeast. This the action action of of yeast. This microscopic microscopic vegetable vegetable cell cell reproreprothe duces itself itself by glucose into by splitting splitting glucose into carbonic carbonic acid acid and and duces palatable and alcohol and and aa few few palatable and sweet-smelling sweet-smelling by-products. by-products. alcohol (See BEER, BEER, WINE.) WINE.) (See

mentco-ordination, co-ordination, congestion congestion of of the theface, face,overpowering overpowering ment drowsiness; Third Third degree: degree.'Loss Lossof of mobility, mobility, sensitiveness sensitiveness drowsiness; and will. will. and Acuteintoxication intoxication -- Early Earlysymptoms symptoms the 2.2. Aeute thesame same as asinin period of inebriety, but the period but the ofexcitation excitation isisvery veryshort, short, resulting inebriety, resulting quickly ininsomnolence, somnolence, which which can can develop developinto quickly into aacoma coma and and evendeath death through through cerebral pulmonarycongestion. cerebral or or pulmonary even congestion. Chronic alcobolism alcoholism -- Repeated Repeated abuse abuseof of alcoholic alcoholic 3.3. Chronie produces Jesions liquids produces lesions of (gastritis), of of the the stomach stomach (gastritis), liquids of the the liver (cirrhosis), of (nephritis), and of the the kidneys kidneys (nephritis), and of ofthe the nervous liver(cirrhosis), nervous (delirium, neuritis). system (delirium, neuritis). system

AIfi -- English English beer, lightly hopped beer, lightly hopped and and slightly stightly bitter. ALE bitter. ItIt isis used in in cooking cooking for for making making various various cheese cheese dishes, used dishes, notably notably (q.v.). for Welsh Welsh rarebit rarebit (q.v.). for Ale isis obtained obtained by by rapid rapid fermentation fermentation and Ale and acquires acquires strength on on maturing; maturing; fermented fermented small small beer, strength beer, on on the the other other hand, has has only only aa short life. Stout short life. porter are Stout and and porter hand, are brewed brewed from from grain; ale roasted grain; ale isis made grain in from grain made from in its its natural roasted natural state. state. used to to be be aa tradition tradition in in wealthy ItIt used wealthy English English families families to to celebrate the birth birth of of aa son son by by filling filling one celebra te the one or or more more barrels barrels of of ale, specially specially brewed brewed for for the the occasion. occasion. The ale, The barrels barrels were were hermetically sealed sealed and and not not opened opened until hermetically until the the son son and and heir heir reached his his majority. majority. On On this this memorable reached memorable day day -- called called the the 'coming of of age' age'friends, tenants tenants and and servants 'coming - friends, servants were invited were invited great repast, to aa great repast, which which concluded concluded with passing round to with the the passing round of of the splendid splendid twenty-one-year-old twenty-one-year-old ale. the ale. posset -- Heat Ale posset (lf pints, Heat 1I litre pints, generous litre (I~ generous quart) Ale quart) ale ale with with pinch ofpowdered little sugar, sugar, aq pinch of powdered gingerand ginger and grated grated nutmeg. aa little nutmeg. (l| pints, Boil 1I litre pints, generous litre (l~ generous quart) quart) unskimmed milk Boil milk and and mix it, it, while while still still boiling, boiling, with mix with the the ale. ale. Toast and and ale ale -- An An English Toast English beverage which which used used to to be be served in in win winter, after the the dinner, dinner, at served ter, after at the the same same time time as as the the cheese. Method. Bring (lf pints, generous quart) old Bring 1I litre (li Method. ale, to to old ale, which aa coffeespoon coffeespoon of ginger has which has been added, to been added, to the the boil. jug with Pour it, it, whilst whilst almost almost boiling, into aa jug boiling, into Pour with aa metal metal lid lid containing a thick slice slice of bread toasted on both sides. containing sides. Leave the ale to to stand stand for aa short time before serving.

Microscopic cells cells inducing inducing Microscopie alcoholic fermentation fermentation alcoholic

produced by Alcohol isis produced juices by fermenting fermenting natural natural sweet sweet juices Alcohol (grapes, apples, apples, sugar sugar cane, cane, beetroot, beetroot, etc.) etc.) or or amyloide amyloide (grapes, musts, which which have have been preliminary fermentasubjected been su to preliminary musts, bjected to tion which which transforms transforms the the starch glucose. Wort starch into into glucose. Wort of of tion (beer), potatoes, cereals (beer), potatoes, etc. etc. are are used. cereals The distillation distillation of these musts musts and produces spirits of these and worts produces The (q.v.); the the concentration concentration and and rectification rectification of of these these spirits (q.v.); produces industrial alcohols. alcohols. produces industrial per cent Absolute 100 per cent alcohol alcohol is product; it is is aa laboratory laboratory product; Absolute 100 a which boils 78.3'C. Because of of its its high a caustic caustic liquid, liquid, which boils at at 78·3°C. water absorption potentiality potentiality it it must must be be treated with with great water absorption caution. caution. (medicinal) 95' Officinal Officinal (medicinal) 95° alcohol alcohol is is aa colourless, mobile, non-residual and a pleasant odour odour and non-residual liquid, liquid, volatile, volatile, with with a a pleasant burning 79.9"C.It burning taste; taste; itit boils boils at at 79·9°C. It can be be mixed mixed with with water water in all ail proportions, proportions, with with contraction contraction (that (that is is to to say, say, the the total volume of the the mixture mixture is is lower lower than that of of the components) components) volume of and and with with emission emission of of heat. heat. 85' 85° alcohol alcohol is is commonly commonly called called 'three-six' 'three-six' (trois-six) (trois-six) because because three three parts parts of of this this alcohol, alcohol, mixed mixed with with an an equal quantity quantity of of pure pure water, water, produce produce six parts of of ordinary eaueaude-vie. de-vie. Alcohol Alcohol possesses possesses antiseptic antiseptic properties; properties; it it is a diffusible diffusible stimulant stimulant which which has has numerous numerous uses uses in in therapeutics. therapeutics. In ln its its chemical chemical composition composition alcohol alcohol approaches sugars sugars (l(1 molecule molecule of of glucose glucose is is split, split, by by fermentation, fermentation, into into 22 molecules molecules of of alcohol). alcohol). It It possesses possesses definite but but moderate moderate alimentary alimentary properties, properties, because because itit decomposes decomposes too too quickly quickly in the the organism, organism, and and the the energy energy released released can can only only be be used used to to aa small small degree, degree, mainly mainly because because itit becomes becomes aa toxic toxic substance substance when when taken taken in in large large doses doses (see (see ALCOHOLISM). ALCOHOLISM).

ALECTRYON -- A large tree A large ALECTRYON tree of of which which the the best-known found in New Zealand. species is found Zealand. Its red red berries, berries, much Its prized for much prized pleasant acid for their their pleasant acid flavour, are usd used in the manufacture manufacture of refreshing beverages. beverages. An excellent oil is extracted from its seeds (and exported).

ALEMBIC. ALEMBIC.

-

ALAMBTc ALAMBIC

Apparatus used for Apparatus used for distilling. distilling. It

comprises comprises a cucurbit, or tinned copper boiler, with or withoutaa bain-marue, out bain-marie, surmounted by byaa cap with with a serpentine, serpentine, i.e., a tin, or tinned copper, spiral coil coilleading leading from it.

Old·fashioned alembic alembic Old-fashioned

ALCOHOLISM. ALCOHOLISM. arcoolrsME ALCOOLISME -- Intoxication Intoxication produced produced by by the of liquids liquids containing containing alcohol. alcohol. There There are are three three the abuse abuse of

distinct forms: distinct forms: l.1. Inebriety Inebriety -- Occurring Occurring when wh en alcohol alcohol reaches reaches aa certain certain degree, degree, variable variable with with individuals, individuals, manifesting manifesting itself itself in in the the following manner: First First degree.. degree: Sensation Sensation of of well-being, well-being, following manner: stimulation stimulation of of the the intellectual intellectual faculties facuIties and and the the imagination, imagination, slight slight swelling swelling of of the the face; face; Second Second degree: degree: Mental Mental inincoherence, diminution of of muscular muscular strength, strength, lack lack of of movemovecoherence, diminution 8

ALGERIA ALGERIA species-of chopped. This makes them easier to use' Various chopped.are This makes them easier to use. Various kombu' of manufacture the in base a as used iurniiuti" laminaria used asvegetable a base infor thesoup manufacture or mixed with rice as a used it thenare ;hi;h which is then used as a vegetable for or mixed wiili rice for example' seasoned with soy sauce. bther species, kanten seasoned with soy sauce. Olher for example, are used inpdtisserie and confectionery' interest are în pâtisserie and \"VJlU'-·"'''Vlll..' algae are not simply a culinary expedient' and Butused in the But algae areconfine-d not simply culinary expedient, andinterest countries; Eastern to aFar not in1t.*"i, food in themofis the not experts, confinedthey to Far Eastern acountries; the valuable in constitute opinioo opinion of the experts, they constitute a valuable food resource for the future. resouree future. that chlorella, microscopic freshwater way thisthe ir in for ft which, is in lhis wayfavourable that ch/orella, microscopie rreshwaler themreproduce conditions, undei aljae which, under favourable conditions, themsave our planet one day reproduce rapidity, may astonishing r.iu.t *ittt planet with astonisrung save our to write: E. and A. N".g.te have good reason itorn fu*ioe. proved from famine. E. and A.of liboratory animals reason write: :L;;;;;;laifeeding has to 'Experimental feedîng of and energy animaIs proved chlorellae. value of has thJ food any doubt GVirO lipic and the food and value of chlorellae. beyond any doubt are rich in proteinic, that chlorellae iii""pp"r.nt It is that chlorellae areacceleraled cultivation will and and that substances, vitaminised It is vlt:amml:sed substances., and that will supplement' important-nutritional an with man provide provide man with an important nutritional supplement. H is with that cultivation traditional of replacing ; qr;iion replacing Iraditional with that not a question in the exploitation in usefuleultivation maylome lattir but the of but theinlaarid tter may come in zones'' usefuJ in the exploitation or semi-arid of so-lar'energy globe energy in arid or semi-arid zones.' This meani that the underprivileged peoples of thc Trusreceive means their that the underprivileged of elements the globe and trace quota of vitamins peoples could receive their quota of vitamins and trace elements "o"n which at present they entirely lack' which at present they entirely Jack.

Theliquidtobedistilledisputdirectlyintotheboiler(in The liquid to be distilled is put directly into the boiler (in thqcase naked-flamealembic), alembic),ororonontop topofofthe,bain' the hainthe caseofofa ilnaked-flame The it.il.The marie mariethatforms that formspart partofof Thealembic alembicis isthen thenheated' heated. The pass into the a"tioo actionofof theheatieleases heat relcasesalcoholic alcoholicvapours' vapours.These These pass into and il;;.t,tn. the serpentine(*tti"tt (whichisÎscooled cooledby byflowing flowingwater)' water), and heat the condense.The Thetiaditional traditionalCharente Charentemethod methodwas wastota heat the "ond.rrr.. alembics overwood woodfires. fires.The Thefirst firs!liquid liquidobtained' obtained, alembicsdirectly over through le /ebrouillis brouil/is-rn.rik hadtotobeheredistilled redistilledbybypassing passingit it through - -hud the thealembic alembiconce oncemore. more. in the AAnumber numberofofimprovements improvementshave havcbeen beenincorporatedincorporated in the oh-fashionedalembictoenablealcoholtobeobtainedatthe old-fashioned alembic to enable alcohol to he oblained at the of the nrtt and to to ensure ensure continuous continuous feeding feeding of the first attempt, and "tt.-pt, apparatus. .apparatus. Traditionalists Tradîtionaiisisinsist, insist, however, however, that thatthese theseimprovements tt""" 'boiler taste' taste' and and yield inferior inferior have onfy only increased increased the the 'boiler

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as distilInIn industry, industry, more morecomplicated complicated apparatus, apparatus, such such as distilling lingtowers towerswith with rectifiers, rectifiers,etc., etc., are areused' used.

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ALGAE.ALGuE_Plantswhichliveinwater.Thenutritive ALGAE. ALGUE - Plants which live in water. The nutritive m919 n"tu. value of of algae isis indubitable, indubitable, and and has has generally generally been been more the 1914 ;;G".ly proved proved than than that that of of fungi' fungi. During During the 1914

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AAVINER VINER -- French French word word meaning meaning to to season, season, or or impregnate impregnate aa new new wine wine cask cask to to make make itit lose lose the the taste tasteof of wood. wood. To To season season aavat vat also press the also means means to grapes as to press the grapes as the the vat vatisis being filled. being filled.

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MI'. . Moulihs ou 1ns. .lourte Tou,ce adlata vionde,F"camn. Fricossin, f'ompe P,pmpe aux oux v'ande, Ioguodes mou.',no,ses. moulinoises 0 ~,acconsns. .. Toquades :i Prdlines. Polets d'or -"", : ~W::û,.b~n JA~{;h P,ol,nes. Polers do' BERRY- ~--.Confectione,y. A· to ·coat .lV"--A ~ ~ .! T,uffwes s ~ .,oQ" l S - . ., ~ , 9ALLIER r-SOD (', 1 S. ' k chees : , '" 0"(' ~"CIOU e, 1 n ...; .!>1onlllllll·iiult \l 0 • 1 . /.''''.'' ~~. Rou)adoux ~ yonnade. Pompe aux Tou,ce 0.'0 v,onae ec!.~. • 1 l . • ViireUIlr.s g,al[On'· dIa vola,lIe. F"coss'~/J .1'vt.;ri" S.\(l\ll' n Il J,op'alI'..'se Goune,/e. Sucre de Honey.. ~'7-" 0 ! . _~Jourié' ci la cerises 1 O.' la VO.la;/le Stuffed chicken Stuffed chicken with with ! s~"r6o-fi.IJ chestnuts, Game chestnuts. ~,~, ('('p' "Oi~ Game

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BURGUNDY flesh of grandam of of tbis this sheep, sheep, the the grandam flock, at of the the flock, at times times tasted tasted flesh (to say grease (to of wool wool grease nothing of say nothing of its its toughness!) toughness !) but, but, to to of jugs poured go down, make itit go pot-bellied jugs down, the the pot-bellied poured forth forth cool cool make 'plenty of wine; itit was was 'plenty grub' and of grub' and carousing carousing to to one's one's heart's heart's wine; content ... . ".. content 'Ah! Those Those admirable admirable Burgundian Burgundian meals, meals, when great when aa great 'Ah! profusion of delectable dishes of delectable dishes isis served, served, such as escargotssuch as escargots profusion la bourguignonne, bourguignonne, naturally! naturally! -- meurelle (q.v.) of meurette (q,v.) various of various ild la (q.v.) with frsh; andoui/lelles andouillettes (q.v.) with beans; (q.v.) beans; aa succulent succulent dflube daube (q.v.) fish; of beef; beef; the the traditional traditional ferchuse la ménagère, minagire, fiammiche ferchuse ild la of flammiche poireaux,fouie au aux poireaux,fouée au lard, lard, and and the the Burgundy Burgundy rigodon rigodon!'l' aux Cnfinary specialities specialities -- To To Philéas Phildas Gilbert, Gilbert, the the escargot, escargot, Colinary prepared in in accordance accordance with with Burgundian Burgundian rites, rites, eaten eaten prepared scalding hot hot as as itit isis taken taken out garlic-scented butter out of its garlic-scented of its butter scalding gastronomy of bath, symbolises symbolises the the gastronomy of Burgundy, Burgundy. But But there there isis bath, an infinite infinite variety variety of of other other dishes, dishes, recipes recipes for for which which will will be be an found in in alphabetical alphabetical order. order. found Potie bourguignonne, bourguignonne, which which isis similar similar to various French to various French Potée poties, for for each each region region of France has pofte; pochouse pochouse of France has its its potée; potées, (q.v.) and and various various freshwater freshwater fish (q.v.); beef fish matelotes matelotes (q.v.); beef ild la ta (q.v.) bourguignonne, which which must must be made with be made with red red wine; wine; round round of of bourguignonne, veal ild la la crème; crime; andouille andouille wilh with white (a white beans; beans; ferchuse ferchuse (a vea/ corruption of of the the word word fressure, pluck); daube i.e. pluck); daube bourbourfressure, i.e. corruption guignonne;flammiche with with /eeks;fouée, leeks;foude,whichis cream flan flan guignonne;fiammiche which is aa cream filled with with slices slices of of bacon bacon and and sprinkled sprinkled with with walnut walnut oil; oil; filled poulet young pigeons au sang; sang; young gobinette; canard la gobineue; canard au au pou/el au pigeons ilh la jugged hare laurier; jugged hare àd /a la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; saddle saddle of of hare hare àd la la laurier; Piron; omelelle omelette au au sang. sang. Piron; There are are pike la crème; udme; Amay-le-Duc Arnay-le-Duc andouille; andouille; Sens Sens There pike àd la andauillette; Dijon Dijon ham honn wilh with parsley; the sausages sausages of of Belley Belley andouillelle; parsley; the (Brillat-Savarin's native crayfish tails tails àd la Nantua; la Nan/ua; (Brillat-Savarin's native place); place); crayfish pike quenelles wilh with crayfish; crayfisft; Pemollet Pernollet chicken chicken ild la la crème; crime; pike quenelles coq au &t chambertin; chambertin; sucking-pig sucking-pig ilit la la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; ham coq Mm rigodon, and and aa whole of charcuterie: charcuterie: large and smal! small rigodon, whole range range of large and sausages; black black pudding and pork which are are made in sausages; pudding and pork pies, pies, which made in the Sa6ne-et-Loire and and in Côte-d'Or, Ain, Ain, Saône-et-Loire in Yonne. Yonne. the COte-d'Or, Among and pastries sweets and Burgundy Among the the cakes, cakes, sweets pastries of of the the Burgundy (which can region rigodon (q.v.) can also region are are the the rigodon (q.v.) (which also be be made made as as a dessert or or sweet sweet course); dessert course); Lower Lower Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes; cakes; Upper cakes known Upper Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes known as as pognoi; pognon; pancakes, pancakes, called called matefaims malefaims ifr iil Upper Upper Burgundy; Burgundy; bugnes bllgnes or or couques; coliques; and Auxerre Sens and Sens Auxerre gougire; gougère; Louhans Louhans corgniottes; co rgn io Iles ; chamoure chamoure -- aa kind kind of of marrow marrow flan flan which which is is mainly mainly made made in in Lower Lower Mflconnais; Mâconnais; fruit fruit tartouillat; larlouillal; tarte larle aux aux boulettes; bou/eues; flamusse fiamusse gaudes. bressane; and gaudes. bressane; and Among Among local local pastry pastry and and confectionery confectionery specialities specialities are are Dijon and pain ipice; Avallon Dijon nonnettes nonnel/es and pain dd'épice; Avallon and and Chablis Chablis bis cuits ; Sens ingue s; Arnay-le-Duc biscuits; Sens macaroons macaroons;; Chabli Chabliss mer meringues; Amay-le-Duc mar z ip ans ; noug a t ine s ; bblackcurrant lac k cur r ant fondant s ; sug ar - c o a t e d marzipans; nougatines; fondants; sugar-coaled jams, among cherries cherries (cherries (cherries in in petticoats); petticoats); excellent excellentjams, among which which the known are are Chanceavx Chanceaux raisini, raisiné, confiture confiture d'ipined'epinethe best best known vinCtte: and Flavigny Flavigny aniseed aniseed sweets. sweets. vinelle; and To To conclude conclude the the list list of of local local produce produce are are the the esteemed esteemed cassis and prunelle, cassis liqueurs liqueurs made made at at Dijon; Dijon; and prunelle, made made at at Flavigny. Flavigny. Wines Wines -- The The quality quality and and variety varicty of of Burgundy Burgundy wines wines assure assure them them aa leading leading place place not not only only in in France France but but in in the the world. world. Viticultural Viticultural Burgundy Burgundy goes goes beyond beyond the the frontiers frontiers of of historic historie Burgundy. Burgundy. It It extends extends across across fo:ur four dipartements: départements: Yonne, Côte-d'Or, Sa6ne-et-Loire Saône-et-Loire and and Rhdne, Rhône, embracing embracing Yonne, C6te-d'Or, the the great great regions regions of of Chablis, Chablis, Cdte Côte de de Nuits, Nuits, C6te Côte de de Beaune, Beaune, Cdte chalonnaise, Côte chalonnaise, MAconnais, Mâconnais, Beaujolais. Beaujolais. Each Each of of these these regions regions comprises comprises several several appellations, appel/ations, some some communes. communes, some sorne vineyards, vineyards, besides besides regional regional or'generic' or 'generic' appellations appellations (see (see accompanying accompanying table). table). Chablis. The little town of Chablis Chablis in in Yonne Yonne has has given given its its Chablis. The little town of name and name to to this this excellent excellent dry dry wine wine with with its its greeny-gold greeny-gold hue hue and delicate delicate bouquet. bouquet. It lt is is aa wine wine that tha! matures matures beautifully beautifully in in

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Map of the Map or the Burgundy Burgundy wine-growing wine-growing district di"trÎct

good good vintage vintage years. years. Connoisseurs enjoy drinking it it with oysters, shellfish. oysters, seafood, seafood, fish fish and shellfish. COte Nuits. This is the name Côte de de Nuils. name given to the northern northem part of of the the C6te-d'Or, Côte-d'Or, which which begins south south of of Dijon Dijon with with the the commune commune of of Fixin Fixin and ends south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Nuits-Saint-Georges, The vineyards climb halfway halfway up up a line of of hills hills situated west west

of of the the autoroute autoroute Dijon-Mdcon. Dijon-Mâcon.

The The C6te Côte de de Nuits Nuits produces mostly mostly red red wines. wines, These strong, strong, full-bodied, full-bodied, glowing, glowing, fragrant fragrant wines wines enjoy enjoy an excellent reputation reputation and and accompany roast roast or or grilled grilled meat, meat, game game (even (even when when itit is is high), high), piquant piquant dishes dishes and cheeses cheeses to to perfection. perfection. Cbte de Beaune. Beaune. This This comes cornes immediately immediately after after the the COte Côte de de Côte de Nuits Nuits and and gets gets its its name name from from the the village village of of Beaune. Beaune. Cdte Côte de de Beaune ex tends from from Ladoix-Serrigny Ladoix-Serrigny in in the the north north to to Beaune extends Santenay, Santenay, on on the the borders borders of of the the ddpartemmr département of of Sa6ne-etSaône-etLoire Loire in in the the south. south. Apart Apart from from some sorne great great red red wines, wines, Cdte Côte de de Beaune Beaune produces produces some sorne very very fine fine dry dry white white wines, wines, the the most most famous famous being being Montrachet, Montrachet, with with its its delicious delicious fragrance fragrance of of fresh fresh almonds. almonds. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet often often equals equals it; it; the the Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet and and B0tarde-Montrachet Bâtarde-Montrachet have have better better lasting lasting qualities. qualities. The The powerful powerful Corton-Charlemagne, Corton-Charlemagne, the the fragrant, fragrant, full-bodied full-bodied Meursault Meursault are, are, like Iike all aIl the the wines wines of of this this region, region, wines wines to to serve serve with with fish fish and and shellfish; shellfish; they they also also make make fitting fitting companions corn panions to to the the richest richest of.sauces. of sauces. The The red red wines wines are are as as good good as as those those of of the the C6te Côte de de Nuits. Nuits. They They can can be be drunk drunk with with meat, meat, but but itil isis preferable preferable (apart (apan from from

t62 162

BURGUNDY BURG UND Y

(from contemporary The contemporary tapestries) tapestries) The manufacture Burgundy wines, wines, 1470 1470 (from manufacture of of Burgundy

whereas great wines come from from the the wines of the Côte-d'Or C6te-d'Or come whereas the the great of the black black Pinot. Pinot. The in the the Beaujolais begins begins in district of of Beaujolais The wine-growing wine-growing district département extends north and and extends in the the north dipartemenl of Sa6ne-et-Loire in of Saône-et-Loire southwards 'generic' appelappelLyons. The The 'generic' of Lyons. southwards to to the the environs environs of lations 'Beaujolais supérieur' 'Beaujolais', 'Beaujolais and sup6rieur' and are 'Beaujolais', lations are 'Beaujolais-Villages'; very 'Beaujolais-Villages'; they are the lightest varieties varieties and and very they are the lightest drinkable. drinkable. Nine rit aa special growths me each of of them them merit Nine growths special appellation, appellation, each (see accompanying with accompanying table). table). individual character character (see with its its own own individual It most Beaujolais, Beaujolais, which which noting that contrary to to most It isis worth worth noting that contrary must young, the and Moulin-àMoulin-dFleurie and the Morgon, Morgon, Fleurie must be be drunk drunk young, Vent year -- be good year laid down. be laid down. Vent can can -- in in aa good

Corton keep them for less less rich rich dishes dishes than than to keep them for Corton or or Pommard) to those that Côte wines usually accompany. C6te de de Nuits wines usually accompany. Côte line of the line of the of This isis the continuation of the continuation Cbte chalonnaise. This sun-drenched Dijon. The The of Dijon. south of hill slopes that begin begin south sun-drenched hill slopes that red famous are worthy worthy of of their their famous Rully, are red Mercurey, Mercurey, the white Rully, the white brothers of (There isis also white Mercurey Mercurey also aa white Cdte-d'Or. (There of the the Côte-d'Or. and (white) not forget Montagny (white) We must must not forget the the Montagny and aa red red Rully.) Rully.) We and . (both red red and and white). white). and the the Givry Givry (both Mâconnais. nder the Mdcon Mdcon, Mâcon the appellations appellations Mâcon, Mdconnais. U Under supérieur (white only) find red, red, only) we we find and Mâcon-Villages Mdcon-Villages (white sup6rieur and rosé good vinified, make make good when weil well vinified, which, when and white white wines wines which, ros6 and carafe carafe wines. wines. Aiso dry Mdconnais wines wines there there isis aa superb superb dry among the Also among the Mâconnais wh(te Pouilly-Fuiss6 which, which, white wine wine known world: Pouilly-Fuissé known ail all over over the the world: gastronomically gastronomically speaking, with Chablis interchangeable with Chablis speaking, isis interchangeable wines Two communal communal Beaune. Two C6te de de Beaune. wines or or those of the the Côte those of appellations, are inin and Pouilly-Loché Pouilly-Loch6 are appellations, Pouilly-Vinzelles Pouilly-Vinzelles and the the same class. same class. Beaujolais. the Burguody Burgundy wines, wines, classerl among among the Beaujolais. Although Although classer.! Beaujolais personality. Its name with aa strong Its name Beaujolais isis aa wine wine with strong personality. evokes y wines, pleasant to are pleasant wines, the the kind kind that that are to light, fruit fruity evokes Iight, drink 'gulping' wines, young and fresh --'gulping' wines, the the and fresh drink when when they are young they are growers growers call the Gamay Gamay kingdom, kingdom, belongs to to the call them. them. ItIt belongs

LIST CONTROTENS LIST OF OF APPELLATIONS APPELLATIONS CONTRÔLÉES OF y BURGUNDY OF BURGUND White (R) wines (W) and red (R) wines and red White (W) Appellations rig ionale s Appe llat ions régionales Bourgogne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Bourgogne Bourgogne ros6...................... Bourgogne clairet clairet ou ou rosé Bourgogne Bourgogne aligoté aligot6............................ Bourgogne passe-tout-grain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... . . . . .. Bourgognepasse-tout-grain.. Bourgogne grand ordinaire. Bourgogne grand ordinaire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 163 163

W, W, RR RR W W RR W, W, RR

BUSH BUSH Rigion de deChablis Chablis Région grand cru. Chablis grand cru .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis premier cru Chablis premier cru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis Chablis Chablis...................... . ........... Perit Chablis chablis ... Petit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

SampignyJbs-Maranges ......... .. . .. . ... . .. Sampigny-lès-Maranges . Saint-Romain ............................... ... Saint-Romain . Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes C6tesdeBeaune ....... Bourgogne-Hautes de Beaune

w W w W w W w W

Great wines wines of of Côte Cbte de de Beaune Beaune GreaI Corton..................................... . Corton Corton-Charlemagne Corton-Charlemagne ...................... . Bdtard-Montrachet Bâtard-Montrachet ......... . Bienvenue-Bdtard-Montrachet Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet ................. . Criots-Bdtard-Montrachet... Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet ............. . ....... Chevalier-Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet . . . . ........ . . . . .. Montrachet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Montrachet.

C6te de deNuilS Nuits Côte

Chambolle-Musigny .......................... . Chambolle-Musigny Fixin. Fixin.............. . ......... . Gevrey-Chambertin ..................... . Gevrey-Chambertin Morey-Saint-Denis Morey-Saint-Denis ........................... . Nuits-Saint-Georges . . . . . . . . . . . . Nuits-Saint-Georges. . ....... . Vougeot .......................... . Vougeot Vosne-Roman6e ............................. . Vosne-Romanée . C6te de de Nuits-Villages Nuits-Villages .................... ... Côte . Bourgogne-MarsannayJa-Cdte .. . Bourgogne-Marsannay-Ia-Côte Bourgogne-Vins fins fins des des Hautes Hautes Côtes Cdtes de Nuits..... de Nuits ... Bourgogne-Vins

R R R R RR

w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R R R R R R R R R

Beaujolais Beaujolais Beaujolais. ........... . Beaujolais.. Beaujolais sup6rieur Bea ujolais su périeur . Beaujolais-Villages Beaujolais-Villages ........................... . Brouilly. . . .. .... Brouilly. . . ...................... Ch6nas Chénas ... . . ........ . Chiroubles Chiroubles. ... . ........................ . C6tes de Brouilly . . . . . . . .. . ............. . de Brouilly. Côtes Fleurie. . . . . . Fleurie. . .......... . Juli6nas Juliénas ........................... .

Great wines wines of of Côte COte de de Nuits Nuits GreaI

Bonnes Mares Mares ............................... . Bonnes Chambertin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chambertin. . ....... . Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. Bbze. . Cham bertin-Clos de Chapelle-Chambertin ......................... . Chapelle-Chambertin Charmes or or Mazoyéres-Chambertin Mazoyeres-Chambertin ............ . Charmes Clos de de la la Roche Roche ..... Clos Clos Saint-Denis. Saint-Denis ... . . . . . . . . . . Clos . ............ . Clos de de Tart Tart................................. . Clos . Clos de de Vougeot Vougeot ............................. . Clos Ech6zeaux .................................. . Echézeaux Grands-Ech€zeaax ........................... . Grands-Echézeaux Griottes-Chambertin ......................... . Griottes-Chambertin La Tâche Tdche ................................... . La Latricibres -Chambertin .............. . Latricières-Chambertin Mazis-Chambertin ........................... . Mazis-Chambertin Musigny .................................... . Musigny Richebourg Richebourg ................................. . La ... Romanée.. ..... . ........... . La Roman6e Roman6e-Conti. . Romanée-Conti ............. . Roman6e-Saint-Vivant Romanée-Saint-Vivant ........................ . Ruchottes-Chambertin Ruchottes-Chambertin. . ................. . COte chalonnaise Côte cha/onnaise

Givry. Givry...........

. ............ Mercurey Mercurey ................................... Montagny. Montagny ................................... Rully. Rully.......... . ...................

...

..

..

RR

W. R W,R W W W W W W W W W W W W W,R W. R W, R W,R R R R R R R

R R R R R R R R R R R R

Mdconnais Mâconnais

M6con.. Mâcon Mdcon supérieur. sup6rieur Mâcon . . . . . . . . . . ......... . Micon-Villages. Mâcon-Villages .............................. . Pouilly-Fuiss6 .............................. .. Pouilly-Fuissé . Pouilly-Vinzelles ............................ . Pouilly-Vinzelles . Pouilly-Loche ... Pouilly-Loché ................... .

W. R W,R W, n W,R W W W W W W

R R

(In Il). (rNr) BUSH a). BUrssoN BlJSH (ln BU1SS'ON (EN)

R R R R R R R R

lobsters buisson, spiny lobsters en buissor. Smelts Smelts and en buisson, spiny lobslers en buisson. lobs/ers en other other small fish are also frid [ried and arranged 'in a a bush'.

w,R W,R w,R W,R w W w,R W,R

.

w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R

COte Côte de de Beaune Beaune

Morgon.......................... . Morgon Moulin-i-Vent.... . Moulin-à-Vent Saint-Amour . ... Saint-Amour

w,R W,R

. . . .

Aloxe-Corton.. Aloxe-Corton. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ...

Auxey-Duresses. Auxey-Duresses. . ................... . Beaune Beaune. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .... . Blagny. Blagny... . ............... . Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet ........................ Chorey-lbs-Beaune Chorey-lès-Beaune ................ . C6tes Côtes de de Beaune Beaune. . . . . . . ........... Cdtes . Côtes de de Beaune-Villages. Beaune-Villages ...................... Ladoix Ladoix ................................... . Meursault Meursault. . . . . . ........... Month€lie Monthélie............ . ................ Pernand-Vergelesses Pernand-Vergelesses ...................... . Pommard Pommard ................................. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet .............. . Saint-Aubin Saint-A ubin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ............ Santenay Santenay. . . . . . . . . . . .. . ........ . Savigny-lbs-Beaune Savigny-lès-Beaune ........................... Volnay Volnay ..................................... CheillyJbs-Maranges Cheilly-lès-Maranges .... . Dezize-lbs-Maranges Dezize-lès-Maranges ..........................

R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R

RR

W, R W,R

arranging various -- Method of arranging ingredients, shellfish: crayfish m buisson, Ingredients, particularly particularly shellfish' crayfish en

BUSTARD. BUSTARD. ourARDE 'OUTARDE - Genus Genus of of bird of of the family Otidiae, Olidiae, found and temperate regions of the Old World. found in in both both hot hot and temperateregionsoftheOld World. The great greal bustardis bus/ardis the the largest largest land bird bird in Europe, where where itil comes cornes in in December Decem ber and and stays stays until until March. March.1Itt is is known known for for the the delicacy of of its its flesh. flesh. The The little /iule bustardis buslard is more more highly highly prized. It 1t comes cornes to to Beauce and and Berry Berry in in April, April, but but is is non-migrant non-migrant in Spain, Spain, Italy, Ital y, Greece and and Sardinia. The The special special feather feather structure structure on on the the head head of of the the great great bustard bustard male male is is absent from from the the head head of of the the little little bustard bus tard male. male. The The principal principal method method of of cooking cooking bustard bustard is is roasting. roasting. All Ali the indicated for for the the preparation preparation of of the the domestic domestic the recipes recipes indicated goose goose and the the Nantes Nantes duckling duckling can can be be applied applied to to bustard. bustard.

BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S BROOM. BROOM. Penr-Eoux PETIT-HOUX --. Shrub with with bitter bitter roots, raots, which which is is one one of of the the five five roots roots used used for for aperitifs. aperitifs. Its Ils

R R

w,R W,R

. . R R w,R W,R W,R . W,R . w,R W,R w,R W,R . R R w,R W,R W,R . w,R w,R W,R W,R . w,R . R R w,R W,R W . w

young young shoots shoots are are edible edible and and are are prepared prepared like like asparagus. asparagus.

BUTCHER'S BlJTCHER'S SHOP. SHOP. BoucHERq BOUCHERn; -- Shop Shop for for the the retail retail sale sale of of meat meat for for human human consumption. consumption. The The meat meat trade trade has has aa long long history. history. The The Jewish Jewish High High Priest Priest in in Biblical Biblical times, times, performin! performing the the sacrificial sacrificial offering, offering, was was the the real real precursor precursor ofthe of the butcher. butcher. In ln Egypt, Egypt, aa fire tire was was lit lit in in front front of of the the altar altar where where aa sacrifice sacrifice was was to ta be be made, made, wine wine was was offered offered and and aIl god god invoked. invoked. The The throat throat of of the the animal animal was was slit, slit, the the head head severed severed and and the the carcase carcase skinned. skinned. The The head head was was taken taken to to market; market; itit was was sold sa Id to to aa Greek Greek ififone one could cou Id be be found, found, ififnot, not, the the head head was was thrown thrown into into the the river. river. The The Romans Romans made made similar similar sacrifices, sacrifices, but but created created aa special special body body of ofmen men to to carry carry out out the the actual actual butchery butcheryof the animals, animais, of the 164 164

BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S SHOP SHOP

animals(l'Encyclopidie) of animai included lhe the slaughtering of which Butcher's shop shop until untJl end ofseventeenth of seventeenth century wll içh induded s (l 'Encyclopédie) Butcher's

long, kept for for too too long, fresh or or kept not too too fresh right time, time, not it at at the the right sell it sell in summer l| days days in summer -- itit and It in win winter days in than 22 days i.e., more than ter and i.e., human for human unfit for meat became became unfit the meat that the reckoned that being reckoned being these periods after these consumption after consumption Periods.. method of of hand, aa method by hand, out by measured out meat measured The sale sale of of meat The and arguments, and continual arguments, caused continuai estimation, caused approximate estimation, approximate the which offered offered the of scales, scales, which system of replaced by by the the system was replaced was penalties ininand penalties confiscations and Fines, confiscations greatest fairness. fairness. Fines, greatest lawthe lawon the inflicted on rights were were inflicted civil rights loss of of civil volving the the loss volving that provost of to see see that of Paris Paris to the provost of the was the duty It was the dut breakers. It y of breakers. carried out. out. were carried statutes were these statutes these of the end endof until the maintained until were maintained regulations were The royal royal regulations The away in doing doing away succeeded in Napoleon succeeded monarchy. absolute monarchy absolute . Napoleon the created the and created houses, and privately owned slaughter houses, owned slaughter with privately with forced to to were forced as butchers butchers were As soon soon as public slaughter house. As slaughter house. public industry developed developed:: the industry of the branches of there, two two branches animals there, take animals take first covered covered The first retail trade, trade.The and the the retail trade and wholesale trade the wholesale the house, the slaughter slaughter house, purchase of transport toto the of livestock, livestock, transport the purchase the of consisted of room. The The second second consisted the scalding scalding room. the work work of of the and the and consumer. meat to to the the consumer. of meat carcases of retailing the the carcases retailing century, nineteenth century, the nineteenth created inin the were created markets were Cattle markets Cattle for the the Passy for and Passy Pontoise and Sceaux, Pontoise those atat Sceaux, among them them those among butchers from which which butchers up from also set set up was also fund was area. AA fund Paris area. Paris purchases, with withaa for purchases, money for necessary money the necessary could obtain obtain the could be proviso that loan be theloan that the percent interest, and andaaproviso cent interest, charge of of 55per charge of oneof retainedone Thus the butchersretained the butchers repaid within within aafortnight. fortnight. Thus repaid pressdaims claims notpress could not creditorscould privileges. Their Theircreditors theirancient ancient privileges. their the meatininthe themeat norseize seize the day, nor market clay, of,or oron, on, market on the the eve eveof, on town's thetown's safeguard the wereessential essentialtotosafeguard These conditions conditions were shop. These shop. meat supplies. supplies. meat free, becamefree, meattrade tradebecame themeat centurythe nineteenthcentury thenineteenth Duringthe During was periodduring which itit was during which transition period was aa transition but there there was but prove that thatanan francstotoprove payaafee 3,000francs feeof of3,000 necessarytoto pay necessary possessed the the onepossessed andthat thatone servedand had been beenserved aapprenticeship pprenticeship had presentaacertificate certificate meat,totopresent retailmeat, knowledge totoretail necessary knowledge necessary nottoto undertakenot andtotoundertake goodconduct andcharacter, character, and conductand of ofgood prefecture three givingthe three theprefecture withoutgiving leave the the business business without leave months' notice, months'notice. 500 wgreonly only500 therewçre centurytbere thecentury middleofofthe Towardsthe themiddle Towards laiddown downthe the regulations laid left.Police Policeregulations shopsleft. retail retailbutcher butchershops tiled, hadtotobebetiJed, theyhad shops;they running ofofshops; relatingtotothe therunning details detailsrelating couldset set positioned.No Nobutcher butchercould wellpositioned. andwell weil wellventilated ventilatedand

for the giving these these men men special special privileges to to compensate compensate for occupation was held in contempt by the higher fact that their occupation an was an classes. Under Under Nero, Nero, the the Roman Roman butcher's shop was butcher's shop classes. imposing establishment, they established established aa guild, and they imposing establishment, and which was subject to official reguJations. regulations. Butchers specialissuarii. called suarii, and selling of pigs were called ing in the buying and In France, guild had by the had been been established by France, aa butchers' butchers'guild In eighth century; apprenticeman had to serve aa three years' appreni.icecentury; aa man ship further three for aa further meat for cut and and sell sell meat dress, cut and buy, buy, dress, ship and and buy buy an an years before ter butcher and master he could become aa mas before he official diploma; both great deal money. deal of of money. privileges cost aa great both privileges The ter butchers, and master butchers, and master of of mas guild was by aa master directed by The guild was directed not became powerful, arrogating to themselves themselves not arrogating to became extremely extremely powerful, pork and only and mutton, pork veal, mutton, beef, veal, selling beef, monopoly of of selling only the the monopoly sucking-pig, fish.. and river river fish also sea sea and sucking-pig, but also

guild Arms Arms of of the the butchers' butchers' guild

Charles privileges, and and their their their privileges, revoked sorne some of of their Charles VI VI revoked power they century they the sixteenth sixteenth century power declined time, but but inin the declined for for aa time, es men, and were weresubject subjecttoto andwere of trad tradesmen, raised to the status statusof were raised to the statutes, them forbade them which forbade were ordinances ordinanceswhich which were among which statutes, among to afteraa openafter keep open authority; keep without authority; new stalls stalls without to open open new certain during orduring abstinence or meat on daysof ofabstinence on days certain time; time; exhibit exhibit meat Lent , and for the the andthat thatonly only for ten, stall out out of often onestail Lent inin more more than thanone sick ; sohcit slaughter customers; slaughter abuse customers; solicit custom custom oror abuse sick; animais cooked sellcooked authorities;sell theauthorities; informing the without informing animals without meat ; or a butcher. butcher. thatofofa butthat pursueany anyother other trade trade but meat; orpursue They animals healthyanimais from healthy meatfrom sellmeat They were were expected expected totosell which from notdied diedfrom hadnot andhad properly slaughtered slaughtered and hadbeen beenproperly which had disease andtoto wayand prepareititininaac1ean cleanway diseaseor orsuffocation, suffocation, toto prepare

165 l6s

BUTTER up business before the police commissioner of his area had up business before the police commissioner of his area had visited his premises and given his approval. Any butcher visited his premises and given his approval. Any butcher who displayed meat outside his premises was fined. A shop who displayed meat outside his premises was fined. A shop that did not display meat for three consecutive davs was that did not display meat for three consecutive days was closed for six months. closed for six months.

kitchensofoflarge largecatering catering establishments establishmentswhich whichbuy buycomcomkitchens pletecarcases carcases or orlarge largecuts cutswholesale, wholesale, orordirect directfrom fromthe the plete slaughterhou house, fortheir theirown owncooks cookstotocarve carveand prepare. andprepare. slaughter se, for Butchers'shops shopsalso also have havescales scales which which must mustbe bekept keptvery very Butchers' clean, marble marble tables tablesand andceramic ceramicplates plates totodisplay displaythe themeaL meai. clean, Modern rules rulesof ofhygiene hygienebeing protectfood beingmade madetotoprotect foodfrom from Modern dust, many many butchers' butchers' shops provided with shopsare areprovided withdisplay display dust, counters enclosed enclosed with glass,and withglass, and often often with with means meansof of counters refrigeration.Uncut Uncutcarcases carcasesare arehung hungfrom from rails rails on on hooks, hooks, refrigeration. andenclosed enclosed inin aa refrigerated refrigerated chamber chamber or or inin aa large large and refrigerator. The The walls walls and and Boors floors of of aa butcher's butcher's shop shop are are refrigerator. usually tiled, tiled, and and kept kept scrupulously scrupulously clean. clean. Employees Employeei are are usually dressed in in light-coloured light-coloureci clothes clothes and and wear wearwhite white aprons. aprons. dressed

BUTTER. BEURRE BEURRE -- Fatty Fatty substances substances extracted extracted from from the the BUTTER. milk of mammals, known of mammals, known and and used used as as food food by by man. man. The The milk

origin of goes back of butter butter goes back to to the the early early nomadic nomadic people people who who origin used the the milk milk of goats, cows, of goats, cows, ewes, ewes, mares, mares, she-asses she-asses and and used prepare it. she-camels t~ to prepare it. she-camels The Aryans Aryans brought brought butter butter to to the the inhabitants inhabitants of India, of India, The who soon soon considered considered itit aa sacred sacred food. food. who The Hebrews Hebrews used used butter butter as as aa medicine medicine as as weil well as as aa food. food. The Abraham offered offered butter, butter, aa symbolic symbolic food, food, to to three three men men who who Abraham came to to his his tent tent in in the plains of the plains of Mamre. Mamre. In In his proverbs his proverbs came Solomon says: 'Surely, the says: 'Surely, the churning churning of milk bringeth of milk bringeth forth forth Solomon butter ... . . .'. butter '. The Scythians Scythians also also had had butter, butter, and and brought brought itit to to the the The Greeks, and and its its use use spread spread throughout throughout the civilised civilised world. world. Greeks, People living living in in sorne some southern southern countries, countries, like like the the Romans, Romans, People used oil oil much much more more than than butter butter in in their their cooking. cooking. This usee! preference still persists in still persists in certain certain parts parts of of the the south south of preference of France, mainly mainly in in Provence, Provence, where where oil plays aa principal oil plays France, part in in ail all the the dishes. dishes. part

Butcher's tools ( Nicolas\ Butcher"s 100is (Nicolas)

Since 1863 the number of shops has considerably inSince 1863 the number of shops has considerably increased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but creased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but the butchers' guild no longer has the prerogatives it enjoyed the butchers' guild no longer has the prerogatives it enjoyed under the old r6gime. The. work of slaughtering animals is under the old régime. The. work of slaughtering animais is now carried out in recognised slaughter except in in aa now carried out in recognised slaughter houses, houses, except very few localities where the butcher does the slauglitering very few localities where the butcher does the slaughtering himself. The bulk of a butcher's work is the preparition oi himself. The bulk of a butcher's work is the preparation of cuts of meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and cuts of meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and dresses the joints himself. dresses the joints himself.

Butcher's cold room (/{icolas) Butcher's colù room (Nicolas)

Old making butter Oldway wayofofmaking butter

The preparatory

work is The prepara tory work iscarried carried out outon onaachopping choppingblock: bl ock : a section of a tree trunk, usually a section of a tree trunk, usually elm, elm, mounted mounted on on three three legs. The slab, also used as a bench, has a cross-grained legs. The slab, also used as a bench, has a cross-grained wooden working surface with fittings for tools, and large wooden working surface with fittings for tools, and large

Preparation Preparation of of butter butter -- In In their their emulsive emulsive state, state, the the fattv fatty globules globulesofofmilk milk are are relatively relativelystable, stable, but butwhen when the the liquid liquid isis left left to to stand, stand, they they rise rise to to the the surface surface inin the the form form of ofcrea-. cream. Cream Creamisisgenerally generallyobtained obtainedby bythe thecentrifugation centrifugationofofmilk milkinin separators. separa tors. Once Onceagitated agitated(in (inwhat whatconstitutes constitutesthe thechurning churning operation) operation) the the fatty fatty globules globules agglutinate agglutinate into into aa compaci compact mass masscalled calledbutter. butter.

drawers. The tools include choppers, saws and knives of drawers. The tools include choppers, saws and knives of various sizes; the latter are sometimes placed in a wooden various sizes; the latter are sometimes placed in a wooden case, called a boutique. These tools are often seen in the case, called a boutique, These tools are often seen in the 166 166

BUTTER BUTTER water). water). ItIt should should have have aa slightly slightly aromatic aromatic smell smell and and aa sweet, sweet, pleasant pleasant flavour. flav6ur. When When placed placed on on the the tongue tongue itit should should melt melt without without leaving leaving any any deposit. deposit. year it The The colour colom varies varies according according to to the the time time of of year it was was produced produced and and the the type type of of animal animal feeding feeding chosen chosen by by the the farmers. farmers. It It can can be be almost almost white. white. The The content content of of substances substances other other than than fat fat (milk (milk constituents constituents remaining remaining in in the the butter butter after after churning churning and and washing) washing) must must not not exceed exceed 18 18 per per cent, cent, of of which which l6 16 per per cent cent should should be be water. water. energy food Butter Butter is is aa valuable valuableenergy food (750 (750 calories calories per per 100 100 g., g., 44 oz.).It oz.). It contains contains aa large large amount amount of of Vitamin Vitamin A A (the (the vitamin vitamin (the anti-rachitic D that that promotes promotes growth) growth) and and Vitamin Vitamin D (the anti-rachitic vitamin), vitamin), but but the the quantities quantities of of these these vary vary according according to to the the quality quality of of the the butter, butter, animal animal feeding feeding methods, methods, and and the the season. season. Unadulterated, Unadulterated, itit isis the the most most digestible digestible of of the the animal animal raw. fats. fats, provided provided that that it it is is eaten eaten raw. Adulteration AduIteration of of butter butter -- Like Like many many other other quality quality foods, foods, to fraudulent butter butter used used to to lend lend itself itselfto fraudulent falsification. falsification. Now Now that that industrial indus trial manufacture manufacture (subject (subject to to strict strict controls) controls) has has insufficient is danger replaced replaced farm farrn production, production, the the only only danger is insufficient working working of of the the butter butter mass, mass, leaving leaving aa residue residue of of buttermilk butterrnilk and and water water in in excess excess of of 18 18 per per cent; cent; or, or, in in the the case case of of farm farm butters, butters, the the addition addition of of preservatives, preservatives, such such as as boric boric acid. acid. The The a temperature, high prolonged at too effects effects of of prolonged storage storage at too high a temperature, possibly possibly near near other other foodstuffs, foodstuffs, is is also also aa factor factor that that cannot cannot be be may, at ignored. ignored. Finally, Finally, cattle-food cattle-food may, at certain certain periods periods of of the the year, year, produce produce peculiar peculiar odours odours and and taste; tas te; these, these, however, however, can can be be eliminated eliminated by by industrial industrial processes. processes. The most The most frequent frequent type type of of adulteration adulteration is is that that which which gives gives greasy, rancid or poisonous rise rancid or poisonous taste, tas te, the the consequences consequences rise to to aa greasy, (more frequently) careless productiori, of careless of productiort, or or (more frequently) prolonged prolonged choosing aa can be These drawbacks drawbacks can storage. These storage. be eliminated eliminated by by choosing good brand and aa good reliable retailer reliable retailer and brand of of butter. butter. of There are are various of butter Preservation of Preservation butter -- There various methods methods of salting common being preserving two of of the butter, two preserving butter, the most most common being salting and amalgamation. amalgamation. and quantity offine into salt into of fine salt working aa quantity by working is done done by butter is Salted butter SalLed per (3 to to 55 per butters (3 demi'sel butters There are are two two types: types r demi-sel butter. There the butter. the or Demi-sel or (8 to per cent cent salt). salt\. Demi-sel l0 per to 10 butters (8 and salted salted butters cent salt) salt) and cent for cooking. cooking. most suitable suitable for are the the most salted are salted in aa amalgamation in effected by butter isis effected Amalgamated butter AmalgamaLed by amalgamation The second second heat. The processed over intense heat. over intense or processed bain-marie, or bain-marie, qualities, keeping qualities, gives aa product product that has superior superior keeping that has method gives method flavour. process to the the flavour. detrimental to is detrimental but the the pro but cess is purposes; the the cooking purposes; for cooking clarified for frequently c1arified Butter isis frequently Butter in contained in precipitating the the casein casein contained water isis evaporated, evaporated, precipitating water

Modern Modern butter bUlter factory factory (Rayor) (Rayol)

This mass in the churn chum exudes a quantity quantity of of watery watery liquid liquid called buttermilk, buttermilk, which is drawn off. The The remaining remaining solid solid is rinsed rinsed in pure water while still in in the churn, churn, then then worked worked until aa homogenous butter is obtained. obtained. fresh from The cream may be be churned fresh from the cow, cow, but but the quality and and yield of of the quality the butter are are definitely definitely improved improved by by of maturaDuring this period allowing the cream to mature. During period of maturaof under the sour under slightly som turns slightly tion the cream cream turns tion the the influence influence of of maturing farm production ferments. This This farrn lactic lactic ferments. production method of maturing manuis still observed in the industrial the cream before use is indus trial manupreis prematuration is latter case, case, maturation in the latter but, in facture of butter but, facture which ensures ensures ceded by heat treatment called pasteurisation, ceded pasteurisation, which Very high high and and conpossible microbes. of possible the destruction destruction of the microbes. Very yeasts sowing yeasts quality isis obtained subsequently sowing obtained by sistent quality sistent by subsequently in the butter. the butter. and flavouring flavouring elements in containing acidifying and containing

lightly can be be lightly food can butter, food clarified butter, using c1arified By using the butter. butter. By the and, the the butter butter overbrowning and, without overbrowning fried or saut6ed without or sautéed fried and causing spitting spitting and without causing dehydrated, without having been been dehydrated, having fat. of fat. splutterings of splutterings CLARIFICATION. butter -- See See CLARIFICATION. of butter Clarification of Clarification These must must vfc6rnux-- These neunnss VÉGÉTAUX VEGETABLE BUTTERS. BEURRES VEGET ABLE BUTTERS. labelled be labelled but should should be butter, but name of of butter, not be the name be sold sold under under the not given aa trade name. 'vegetable fat' trade name. fat'or 'vegetable or given consistency to to give aa solid semi-solid consistency possible solid or or semi-solid to give ItIt isis possi ble to of hydrogenation of the hydrogenation For example, example, the vegetable oils. oils. For certain vegetable certain produces aa as aa catalyst, catalyst, produces mousse as nickel mousse oil, using using nickel cottonseed oil, cottonseed American of American imitation of in imitation lard -- in or lard butter or kind of artificial butter of artificiaJ kind lard. lard. Fatty substance substance DE CACAO cACAo -- Fatty BEURRE DE butter. BEURRE Cocoa butter. Cocoa in the form of of sold in the forrn roasted cocoa cocoa beans. beans. ItIt isis sold from roasted obtained from obtained like pleasant taste, taste, like and pleasant sweet and with aa sweet blocks, with rectangular blocks, rectangular 30'C. between 30°e. at aa temperature temperature between melts at chocolate. ItIt melts that of of chocolate. that at aa cooling at (91"F.) and liquid by by cooling (86"F.) and and stays stays liquid 33"C. (91'F.) and 33"e. (86)F.) (73' F.). F. ). at 23' C. (73 lower temperature, solidifying at temperature, solidifying lower

packets of butter Blocks and and packels of buller Blocks (Rayot. Phol. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) (Rayol.

packed machine packed butter isis usually usually machine retail distribution. distribution, butter For retail For has to to be be regulations, itit has satisty trade trade regulations, in blocks blocks and and to to satisl'y in paper or greaseproof paper or protected from by greaseproof contamination by from contamination protected packed in in waxed waxed are often often packed and demi-sel demi-sel butters butters are Salted and tinfoil. Salted tinfoil. cardboard cartons. cartons. cardboard good butter have aa semi-soft semi-soft should have butter should butter -- AA good of butter Quality Quality of 'sweat' not toto 'sweat' and ought ought not room temperature temperature and consistency atat room consistency proportion of of (an indication high aa proportion contains too too high indication that that itit contains (an

ne.

J

brands, isis several brands, are several product, of which there there are of which This product, This and isis no water water and contains well. ItIt con very weil. and keeps keeps very sterilised and sterilised tains no

t67 167

tsUTTER BUTTER easily digestible, digestible, perhaps more so than ordinary butter. butter. Its Its taste is neutral neutral and can in no way be r,...,Mn. from 60 ta 100 kg. (132 ta 220 lb,). Their rÎnd straw straw coloured. .... VIVU' ...... The cheese cheese is creamier than Gruydren less pungent and The is crcamicr Ihan Gruyère, less pungent and usually less salty. It has a good many holes called .eyes,, usually Jess salty. Il has a many holes called 'eyes', usually three to every bore-hole made. usually three to every made. There is also a French Emmenthal cheese. There Îs a1so a French Emmenthal cheese. Epoisces - Whole-milk, mould inoculated, soft French Epoisses - Whole-milk, mould inoculated, soft French cheese made in almost every part of Burgundy and in central cheese made in almost every part of Burgundy and in cenlral France. Its name comes from a village on the C6te d,Or. France. Ils name cornes from a village on the Côte d'Or. The The milk m!lk is is curdled curdled with with a a special rennet, renne!, flavoured ftavoured with with pepper, clove, fennel, salt, and brandy. It is eaten bhck and brandy. Tt is eaten black clove, fennel, either fresh or ripened. eithcr or ripened. The cheese is left in cellars to ripen for a longer or shorter The cheese is left in cellars 10 for a longer or shorter time according to whether it is to be eaten passC (over-ripe) time according to whether it îs to eaten passe (over-ripe) (runny). ot coulant or coulant (runny). The The fresh fresh cheese cheese is Îs eaten eaten in in summer; summer; the the ripe ripe cheese cheese in in (November winter winter or or spring (November to to June). Ero6 Cheese made in the Aridge district, in Erœ -made in the district, in season season between November and and May. May. between November Ervy-Cheese Ervy - Cheese from from Champagne Champagne whichis whîch is at at its ilS best best between between Nolember and May. N ovem ber and Ehrvd Semi-hard Dutch cheese which good is to Écuvé -Dutch cheese which is good to eat cat all aU the year round. the round. Normandy cheese, eaten all Exoelsior Ifv,t'"~h~iN' -- Normandy cheese, eaten ail the the year year round. round. Feullle de de Dreur Dreux -- Cheese Chcese made made in in the the lle-de-France. lle-de-France. It Tt is good to eat between November and May. is 10 eal betwecn November and Fin de si0cle - Normandy cheese which is good to eat all de siècle - Normandy cheese whicb good 10 eal ail the year round. the year round. Fleu Fleur de de Decauville Decauville-- Cheese Cheese made made in in the the Ile-de-France. ]Ie-de-France. ItIl is good to eat between December and May. IS to eat bctwecn December and May. Fontire -- Cheese Chcese made made in in Franche-Comt6 Franche- Comté all ail the the year year round. round. Fourme - Cheese from the Limagne. There are the cheeses Fourme - Cheese from the Limagne. There are the checses of of Ambert, of of Montbrisson, Montbrisson, of of Salers, Salers, etc., etc., known known as as Fourme d'Ambert, Fourme Fourme de de Montbrisson, Alonlbrisson, Fourme Fourme de de Salers. The latter is sometimes sold under the name of latter is sometimes sold under the name of

Cantal. These These cheeses cheeses are generally alatlheir aregenerally theirbest fromNovembestfrom NovemCan/al. ber totoMay. May. ber Foutina - Italian Italian soft, soft, creamy creamycheese cheese used used inin making making Foutina fondues inin the the Val Val d'Aosta, d'Aosta. fondues Friesche Kaas Kaas - Soft Soft Outch Dutch cheese cheese inin seaSOn seasonbetween between Friescbe November and and May, May. November Frinot -- Cheese Cheese made made inin the the region of of Orléans, Orl6ans, which which isis Frinot in season season helween between November November and June. in Fromage li lala pie (fresh Wlfennented pie (fresh unfernrentedcheese) cheese) - Usually Usually Fromage from skimmed made from skimmed milk milk on on farros farms and and isis for for immediate immediate made consumption. ItIt can can also also he be made made inin the the home home from from whole whole "'VI""~""If'L""'''. milk. The milk milk isis left left to (12. ta to stand stand in in aa cool cool place (12° to 15°C., 15.C., milk. c 53' 10 to 59 59'F.). Curdling takes place al takes place at the end end of of 24 24 to to 36 36 53° F.). Curdling hours, through the the action action of of the the lactic lactic ferment. ferment. IiIt can can also also hours, made with renne!. be made rennet. he pie isis eaten Fromage àd la la pie eaten fresh, fresh, with with fresh fresh crcam cream added. added. may be seasoncd seasoned wîth with sugar, sugar, or pepper according or salt salt and and pepper according 11It may to taste, taste, and and aa !iule little chopped chopped chives chives for for added added flavour. flavour. to Gammel6st -- Norwegian Norwegian all-the-year-round cheese. cheese. Gammelôst G6r0m6 -- Cheese Cheese made made in in the the Vosges. Its name is a corGérômé ruption of of Gérardmer. G6rardmer. ruptîon It isis made made from from wbole whole milk milk and and rennet, rennet, and and isis ripened ripened in Il in cellars for for 44 months, months, until until the the crust crust has has taken taken on on a tawny cellars tawnv colour. Sometimes Sometimes aniseed, aniseed, fenne! fennel or or caraway caraway seeds seeds are arl colour. added. Gérômé Ger6m6 is is aa winter winter cheese, cheese, eaten eaten between between Novemadded. and April. ber and April. ber petitGervais - Well-known Well-known make make of (See Petitof Petit-suisse. Petit-suisse. (See Gervais sadsse.) suisse.) Gex - French French blue-veined cheese cheese manufactured al at Gex, Gex principal town town of of the the Ain Ain département, dipartement, between November and May, from from unskimmed whole milk, milk, coaguJated coagulated in in 2 and unskimmed whole (77" 1081 hours al at 25° 25' to 27'C. (77° to 8l'F.). hours to 27°C. OF.). Before it offered for sale, il it is stored for 2 weeks weeks in Before it is is offcred for sale, is stored for 2 ripening special qualities develop. ripening cellars cellars where whcre its ilS special develop. The 'blue'which the penicillum selfThe 'blue' which is due due to to the penicillum glaucum, glaucum, is is sclfduring processing ... ''''''' ..... ''!S and and appears during processing without without the aid egenerating of any foreign foreign body. The chief chief characteristic characteristic of of Gex cheese, which which distinguishes itit from from all ail others, others, is is that that (except (except for for the blue streaks) streaks) it reremains mains ptrre pure white. white. It Il takes takes from from 2 2 to to 4 4 months months to to ripen completely. Gjetiict - Brown-coloured Brown·coloured Norwegian Norwcgian cheese cheese which wruch can be be eaten eaten all ail the the year year round. round. It It is is made of goats' goats' milk. milk. Glouctster Gloucester -- There There are are two two English cheeJes checse.s of of this this name: na me : the famous Double Double Gloucester Gloucester aia Single Gloucester. Gloucester. the famous Double Double Gloucester. GlouceSler. The The shape shape and size of a large large grindgrind· stone, stone, itit is is crumbly crumbly in in texture texture and and has has aa strong strong but but mellow mellow and and delicate delicate flavour. flavour. It It ripens ripens slowly slowly (this (this process process takes takes about about 66 months) months) and and keeps well. weil. Single Single Gloucester. Gloucesler. Made during during spring and and summer, summer, ripens ripens in in about about 22 months. months. It 1t is Îs flat fiat and round, round, similar simîlar to \0 Double Double Gloucester Gloucester in in shape, shape, and and has has aa soft soft and and open open texture. texture. ItTt isîs excellent excellent for for toasting. toasting. Ghx Glux -- Nivernais Nivernais cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten ealen all a11 the the vear year round. round. Goab'milk Goats' milk cheescs. cheeses. FRoMAcE FROMAGE or DE cntvns CHÈVRE -- A A wide wide varietv variety of ofgoats' goats' milk milk cheeses cheeses are are manufactured manufactured throughout Ihrougnollt France. France. Occasionally a little Occasionallya liUle cows' cows' milk milk isis added added due due to to the the growing scarcity scarcity of ofgoats'milk. goals' milk. Goats'milk Goals: m.ilk cheese cheese isis usually usuallystrongly salted salted to ta make make itil more more closely c1ose1y resemble rescmblc cows' cows' milk milk cheese cheese (and (and to 10 preserve it). it). In ]n fact, fact, many many goats' goalS' milk milk cheeses cheeses are are far far too too salty. Although this usually eaten eaten fresh fresh itit can can be be preprethis cheese cheese isis usually served scrved inin various variousways ways and and eaten eaten when whcn very very mature. mature. (In (In the the Arddche Ardècheitit isiswrapped wrapped ininwalnut walnutleaves Jeaves or orplaced placed in in eartheneartbenware warepots.) pots,) Among the milk cheeses cheeses are are the the the best best known known of ofthe the goats' milk Banon of Provence I->rr",,'''n,..,., the theCabicou Cabécouof Quercy , the theChabichou Chabichouof of

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212

CHEESE

CHEESE

Poitou, the theChavignol ChavlgnolofofBerry Berry('crottins'), ('crot lins'),lalaMothe'Saint' Mothe-SaintPoitou, Hiraye, the Levroux, Levroux, small small Mdcons Mâcons of of Burgundy, Burgundy, -the the Héraye, the Corsican Niolo, Niolo, the the Rigottes Rigollesof ofCondrieu, Condrieu, the theRocamadour Rocamadour Corsican and Saint-Marcellin Saint-MarcellinofofDauphinl, Dauphiné, the the Valengay, Valençay, the theSainteSainteand

Maure. Maure. GorgonzolllSemi-hardcheese cheesewhich whichtakes takesits itsname namefrom from Gorgonzola - Semi-hard little village near near Milan. Milan. ItIt isis made made by by aa rather rather complex complex aa [ttlJvillage process. process. Good Good Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, which which isis aa spring springand and summer summer cheese, has has aa thin thin rind. rind. The The cheese cheese should should be be streaked streaked with with iheese. blue, but but not not excessively, exeessively, and and should should be be yellowish yellowish white white inin blue, colour. colour. Gouda-- Dutch Duteh cheese cheesemade madefrom fromwhole wholemilk, milk, very verysimilar similar Gouda to Cantal Cantal but but there thereisisno no preliminary preliminary fermentation. fermentation. to Gournay Gournay - French French whole-milk, whoJe-rnilk, soft soft cheese cheese made made at at Gournay, Gournay, in in Normandy, Nonuandy, and and in in neighbouring neighbouring districts. districts. At At its best best between between September September and and June. June. its Gruy0re Gruyère -- The The Gruydre Gruyère valley valley isis situated situated in in the the Fribourg Fribourg Canton, dominated dominatcd by by the the Mol6son. Moléson. ItIt has has given given its its name name to to Canton, aa cheese eheese which which is is also also made made in in the the Cantons Cantons of of Vaud Vaud and and Neuchâtel. True True Gruydre Gruyère is is only only made made in in French French SwitzerSwitzerNeuchAtel. land. land. Formerly, Formerly, only only semi-fat semi-fat cheeses cheescs or or cheeses eheeses made made from from skimmcd milk milk were were manufactured, manufactured, the the cream cream being being used used for for skimmed butter, butter. which whieh could be be economically economieally exported. exported. Nowadays Nowadays whole whole milk milk Gruydres Gruyères are are also also made, made, especially especially for for export' export. This This cheese cheese is often often confused confused with with Emmenthal. Emmenthal. Sometimes Sometimes cheesemongers advertise 'a 'a genuine genuine Gruydre Gruyère from from EmmenEmmencheesemongers thal' which whieh is like saying saying 'genuine 'genuine Brie Brie from from Camembert'! Camembert' 1 It It thal' l0 to is made made in rounds of of 50 to ta 60 kg. (l (110 ta 1301b.). 130 lb.). The The rind rind is is golden golden brown. brown. The The cheese isis waxy, waxy, more more or or less less dry dry according according wJtigh ta ug.. age. It is is scored with with cracks underneath through through which i=o demands of To satisfy the out. To ooze out. of serum serum ooze drops the demands of the the drof,s of 'eyes' in which expects 'eyes' in the the cheese, cheese, it it is is proproFrench market which These appear. These such cessed in su ch a way for export that little liule holes hales appear. The export export Emmenthal. The in Emmenthal. always smaller than the holes are always hales in conlocal confor local made for those made than those salty than less salry also Jess are also cheeses cheeses are excellent this excellent of this flavour of pungent flavour the pungent To enhance the sumption. sumption. To pieces in in aa preserve the the pieces to preserve in Switzerland Switzerland to usual in it isis usual cheese, cheese, it wine. white wine. or white water or in salted salted water cloth cloth soakcd soaked in mounin the the mounfactories in in cheese cheese factories manufactured in is manufactured GruyEre is Gruyère long time time very long for aa very It keeps keeps for pastures' It the pastures. ilose ta to the tains, tains, close others cheese, others ripe cheese, very ripe demand aa very connoisseurs demand Some connaisseurs uncut. uncut. Sorne two the two (q.v.) aa mixture mixture of of the For/ondue fresh. For fairly fresh. prefer itit fairly prefer fondue (q.v.) required. normally required. kinds kinds isis normally of triangles of little triangles years now, now, little For sorne some years di. For Gruyire, Crème Crlme de. Gruyère, paper. in silver silver paper. wrapped in sold, wrapped been sold, have been proceised cheese cheese have processed from even from and sometimes sometimes even Comt6 and from Comté made from is made This This cheese cheese is Gruyère. Gruydre. means of of as aa means produced mainly mainly as was produced cheese was first, this this cheese Ai first, At in much in gained so so much has gained but ilit has cheeses, but defective cheeses, up defective using up using made cheese made from cheese manufactured from now manufactured poputarity that that itit isis now popularity great number number of of are now now aagreat purpose.There Thereare for the the purpose. especially ispeciallyfor (called creams) made ffrom creams) made cheeses (called packaged cheeses processed and and packaged processed rom cheeses. ofbasic variety of aavariery basic cheeses. the to the appeal to always appeal not always does not flavour does indeterminate flavour Theii indeterminate Their are They are explained. They easilyexplained. success isiseasily their success but their connoisseur, but connoisseur, form, and hygienic hygienic form, convenient and packaged ininaaconvenient andpackaged processed and proeessed nowaste. waste. leaving no andleaving norind rindand havingno having are cheesesare Gruydre-type cheeses ofGruyère-type numberof deComlé. Comti.AAnumber Gruyère Gruyire de For America. For andininAmerica. Europeand allover overEurope countriesail madetoday todayinincountries made the manufactured ininthe hasbeen beenmanufactured Gruydrehas ofGruyère typeof longtime timea atype aalong now themselvesnow manufacturers themselves deComté Comt6manufacturers Gruydrede butGruyère Jura,but Jura, replaced bereplaced Comt6be GruyLtededeComté appellationGruyère insistthat thatthe theappel/a/ion insist Comt6. byComté. sim ply by simply season whichisisininseason Picardy,which fromPicardy, Cheesefrom Guerbigny- Cheese Guerbigny MaY. andMay. Octoberand between betweenOctober dlpartement cityofofthe thedépartement Gu6ret,a acity madeininGuéret, Cheesemade Gu6ret- -Cheese Guéret best andisisatatilsitsbest Creusois,and calledCreusois, sometimescalled Creuse.ItItisissometimes ofofCreuse.

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between hetweenSeptember Septemberand andJune. June. cheese. Made in Belgium, from Herv6 Hervé - Soft, Soft,fermented fermented cheese. Made in Bel gi l.lm, l'rom is curdled with rennet, and drained under great it cows'milk, cows' milk, it is curdled with rennet, and drained un der great pressure pressureininsquare squaremoulds. moulds. cellars where the cheeses are Ripening Ripeningtikes takesplace placeinindark dark cellars where the cheeses are one against the other, covered with placed sides, on their placed on their sidcs, one against the other, covered with cloths steepedininbeer. beer. c10thssteeped a mild variety of Herv6 cheese. Best There Thereisisaastrong strongand and a mild variery of Hervé cheese. Best and MaY. November eaten between eaten between November and May. made at Huppemeau in the Loire-et' HuppemeanHuppemeau- Cheese Chccse made at Huppemeau in the Loire-etto Brie. Cher Cher region. region. ItIt isis somewhat somewhat similar similar ta Brie. Normandy cheese which is in season from Incheville

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Incbeville - Normandy cheese which is in season from November Novemberto ta May. May. from ewes' or goats' milk. Half the Jonchee - Cheese Jonchée·Cheesemade made from ewes' or goats' rnilk. Half the leaves. This is mixed with the with milk is boiled milk is boilcd with aa few few bay bay leaves. This is mixed with the milk. It is curdled with rennet and remainder remainder of of the the raw raw milk. It is curdled with rennet and pots. decanted decanted into into little little pots. cheese which can be eaten all the Kaunas Kaunas - Lithuanian Lithuanian cheese whieh can he eaten ail the year year round. round. with caraway seeds, which can be Kummel - Dutch KummelDutch cheese cheese with caraway seeds, which can be year round. It is also called Leidsche Kaas. all the eaten eaten ail the year round. Il is also called Leid,che Kaas. This cheese from Burgundy is good (Les) (Les) Laumes Laumes - This cheesc from Burgundy is good between between October Oetober and and JulY. July. cheese made in and around Berry, in Lewoux Levroux - Goats' Goats' cheese made in and around Berry, in December. season season between between MaY May and and December. is made in the same way as Edam. kyden - Leyden LeydenLeyden cheese cheese is made in the same way as Edam. cumin, cloves or cinnamon. Some ItIl is is often often flavoured flavoured with with cumin, cloyes or cinna mon. Sorne prefer Dutch cheese stove-dried. This makes it connoisseurs connaisseurs pre fer Dutch cheese stove-dried. This makes it its flavour. Leyden is also known as but creamy less improves its flavour. Leyden is also known as less creamy but improves Kummel. and Kaas Leidsche Leidsche Kaas and Kummel. fermented cheese made in Limbourger Limoourger - Semi-hard, Semi-hard, fermented cheese made in The whole-milk curds are Belgium, and Germany. Germany. The whole-milk curds are Belgium, Alsace Alsace and parsley and tarragon, put in moulds chives, with kneided kneaded witb chives, parsley and tarragon, put in mou Ids The surface surface is made non-porous by sun. The and dried and dried in in the the sun. is made non-porous by and brushing. salting salting and brushing. has given Calvados in the A town small Livirot -- A small town in the Calvados region Livarot region has given paste cheese (usually coloured annatto a soft name to its its name ta a soft paste cheese (usually coloured annatto red). This is an autumn and winter cheese. or deep deep red). brown or brown This is an autumn and winler cheese. cheese which is in season between Picardy cheese Manicamp - Picardy Manicamp which is in season between and July. October and July. October cheese which is full-flavoured Semi-hard, full-flavoured cheese Mrroilles - Serni-hard, Maroilles which is takes its name from a village in the and which in shape square square in shape and which takes its name from a village in the in Thi6rache and all over manufactured in district. ItIt isis manufaetured Avesnes district. Avesnes Thiérache and al! over Picardy. Picardy. quickly dried and stored are salted, curds are salted, quickly dried The whole-milk whole-milk curds The and stored intervals, the cheese is turned at frequent where, a cellar in in a cellar where, at frequent intervals, Ihe cheese is tumed beer' It is at ir best between with beer. and washed washed with brushed, and over, brushed, over, II is at ilS best between also called Marolles or Marole. and June. June. ItIt isis also November and November called Marolles or Marole. which is in mountains Jura from the Cheese from the Jura mountains which Metton - Cheese Metton is in to June. October from season season from Oetober 10 June. made in Normandy, good between Cheese made Monsieu - Cheese MonsieW' in Normandy, good between and June. June. November and Novembcr semi-hard, blue-veined, round, large, A Mont Ceni~ Cenis - A large, round, serni-hard, Mont blue-veined, somewhere between a Roquefort and a cheese whole-milk whole-milk cheese somewhere between a Roquefort and a cellars where it acquires its characripensinincellars Gorgonzola. IlIt ripens Gorgonzola. where it acquires its characbluestreaks. streaks. teristic blue teristic had agreat reputation' whichonce cheese, Montd'Or-This Mont d'Or- This cheese, which once had a grea t reputa tion, along the banks of the Sa6ne, round Lyons. made be used to uscd ta be made along the banks of the Saône, round Lyons. goats was used. The cheese was milkofofstable-fed stable-fedgoats Onlythe themilk Only was used. The cheese was weeks. for55tato66weeks. cellars for ripenedinincellars ripened name is made all over itsname now bears which Thecheese cheesewhich now bears its The is made ail over cows' milk and bears very from is manufactured France, France, is manufactured from cows' milk and bears very the original cheese' The best is made at resemblance totothe littlerescmblance original cheese. The best is made at little Itsseason season lasts from December to April. Montd'Or. d'Or.Ils Mont lasts from December to April. goats' milk cheese from Francheveined Lightly MorbierMorbier - Lightly veined goats' milk cheese from Francheand June. October between Good Comt6. Comté. Good between October and June. cheese in season between Poitou (La) Mothe-Bougon (La) Mothe-Bougon - Poitou chcese in season between December. Mayand andDecember. May

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CHEESE CHEESE poitou (La) Molhe-Sainl-Héraye Mothe-Saint-Hdraye -- Goals' Goats' cheese cheese from from Poitou (La) which isis inin season season between between May May and and November. November. Also Also ealled called whieh Lamothe-Bougon. Lama/he-Bougon, Munster -- Semi-hard, Semi-hard, fermented, fermented, whole-milk whole-milk cheese, cheese, Mnnster usually tlavoured flavoured with with caraway caraway or or aniseed, aniseed. Made Made in in Alsace, Alsace, usually (Upper Rhine), in the the Munster Munster valley valley (Upper Rhine), itit isis much much prized prized by by in lovers of of cheese cheese and good belween and isis good between November November and and ApriL April. lovers Murol -- Cows' Cows' milk milk cheese cheese from from Auvergne Auvergne shaped like aa shaped like MIIrol small wheel wheel with with aa hole hole in in the centre. Good the centre, Good between between October October small and June, June. and Mysiist -- Norwegian Norwegian cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten ail all the the Mysiisi year round, round. year Nantais -- This This Breton Breton cheese, cheese, somelimes sometimes ealled called Fromage Fromage Nantais &t curé, good 10 curi, isis good year round, to eat eat ail all the the year round. du Neufchf,tel or or Bondon Bondon -- Small Small French, French, loaf-shaped loaf-shaped cheese cheese Neufchâtel made from from skimmed skimmed milk, milk, whole whole milk milk or or wilh with added added crea cream. made m, ripened on on straw straw bundles bundles in in aa drying drying room room until until aa skin, skin, ltIt isis ripened white at at first and laler first and (first skin), later bluish, bluish, forms forms on on the the surface surface (firsl skin). white The ripeningis ripening is then then completed completed in in cool, cool, well-aired well-aired store store rooms rooms The until aa second second skin forms, this skin forms, this lime time red red in in colour. colour. The The cheese cheese until yellow and rather dark dark yellow and is is at at its its best best between between October October and and isis aa rather June. June, Niolo -- Corsican Corsican cheese, cheese, which which is particularly good is particuJarly good from from Niolo November to to May, May. November Noekkeliist - Norwegian Norwegian cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten all all the the Noekkeliislyeard round, round. yeard Olivet -- Whole-milk, Whole-milk, mould-inoculated mould-inoculated cheese, cheese, made made in in Olivet the small town of small lown of Olivet, Olivet, in in the Loiret. Il the Loiret, It isis made made of of ewes' ewes' Ihe milk, in (l inch) in dises discs about about 2!2l cm, cm. (1 (6 inches) inch) thick and 15 thick and l5 cm, cm. (6 inches) milk, in diameter. The The curd curd is white and and rather salty. This cheese cheese in diameteL is white rather salt y, This has its season from from OClober October to to June, June. has ilS season There is is another another type of Olivet Olivet cheese, cheese, called called Olivet Olivet There type of Cendrd, which good 10 to eat from October eat from Fresh Cendré, which is is good October to to June. June, Fresh creamy Olivet Olivet cheese cheese is sold in in the the summer summer months. creamy is sold monlhs, Oloron -- Chcese Cheese from from Béarn B6arn also also called called Fromage de la la Oloron Fromage de Vallde d'Ossau,whichshould eaten from Vallée d'Ossau, which should be be eaten from October October to to May. May, Paladm Savoy, in Paladru -- Cheese Cheese made made in in Savoy, in season season from from NovemNovember ber to to May. May, Parmesan cheese, which Parmesan -- This This famous famous cheese, which keeps keeps for for a a very very long is made made in in Lombardy Lombardy and and in in the the Romagna Romagna under under long time, time, is various various names. names, The The name name 'Parmesan'is 'Parmesan' is used used abroad abroad for for export skimmed milk. export cheeses cheeses of of this this type. type, It It is is made made with with skimmed milk, During During the the ripening ripening process, process, which which is is very very slow, slow, harmful hannful microbes microbes can can cause cause liquid liqllid patches patch es in in the Ihe cheese, cheese, which which are are dealt dealt with with by by Italian Italian cheese-makers. cheese-makers, They They test test the the cheese cheese by by tapping tapping itil with with aa hammer. hammeL When When they they detect detecl aa soft soft patch, palch, they they open open up up the the cheese, cheese, cut cut out out the the diseased diseased section section and and cauterise cauterise the the 'wound'with 'wound' with aa red-hot red-hot iron. iron, The The ripening ripening period period lasts lasts for for nearly nearly 44 years. years, At At the the end end of of this this process process the the cheese cheese may may be be kept or even even longer. longer. kept for for aa very very long long time, lime, 20 20 years years or Parmesan Parmesan is is a a hard ha rd cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten all al! the the year round, It il is is golden golden yellow yellow in in colour colour and and should should sweat sweal year round. very very slightly. slightly, Pav6 Pavé de de Moyarx Moyaux -- Normandy Normandy cheese cheese which which is is in in season season from from November November to to June. June, Pelardon de Ruoms Goats' cheese made in Pelardon de Ruoms -- Goats' cheese made in Arddche, Ardèche, which in season season from from May May to to November. NovembeL which isis in Petit-suisse Petit-suisse -- Very Very creamy, creamy, unsalted unsalled French French cheese cheese of of the the double-cream double-cream type, type, small small and and cylindrical cylindrical in in shape. shape, It It isis made made from from whole whole milk, milk, with with 20 20 per per cent cent proportion proportion of of fresh fresh cream cream added. added, In ln spite spi te of of its its name, name, itil was was first first made made not not in in Switzerland Gournay in in Normandy Nonnandy (Seine-Inferieure). (Seine-Inférieure), Switzerland but but in in Gournay The The Gervais Gervais Petit-suisse Petit-suisse is is the the best-known best-known make. make, ManuManufacturing factming this Ihis cheese cheese isis aa delicate delicate process, process, to 10 which which the the most most up-to-date up-to-date scientific scientific methods methods of of production production and and supersupervision vision are are applied. applied, Picodon madeinin the the Dauphin6 Dauphinéwhich which Picodonde de Dieulefit Dieulefit-- Cheese Cheese made isis in in season season from from May May to to December. December.

Pithiviers au aufoin foin-- Cheese Cheese made made in Orl6ans region in the the Orléans region and and Pithiviers ripened on on hay, hay. ln In season from October season from October to May. to May, ripened (Puy-de-D0me) -- Made Pontgibaud (Puy-de-Dôme) Made inin the the same way as same way as Pontgibaud Roquefort, but but from from eows' cows'milk. year round, Eaten aH all Ihe the year round, Roquefort, milk, Eaten except in in mid-summeL mid-summer. except PontJ'EvQue -- French French semi-hard, semi-hard, fermented fermented cheese, cheese, POllt-I'Evêqlle made from from whole whole or or skimmed skimmed milk, milk. ltIt isis shaped shaped in in square square made moulds, salted processed like salted and and processed like the Bondon or the Bondon or Neufchâtel. Neufchfltel. moulds, ripened in in cellars, cellars. This This takes takes from from 33 to months, or to 44 months, less or less ItIt isis ripened the cheese cheese is is very very rich rich in in cream, cream. Pont-l'Evêque PontJ'Ev0que can can be eaten ifif the be eaten year round the whoJe whole year round except except in in August August but but isis atat its its besl best the between October October and and June, June. IlIt should have aa wrinkled, should have wrinkled, between greyish-yellow crust crust. The The cheese pale yellow cheese is yellow in is softish and pale softish and in greyish-yellow colour. colom, Port-Salut -- A A superb yellow, whole-milk superb creamy, creamy, yellow, whole-milk eheese, cheese. Pori-Salut was first first made made at Trappist Monastery at the the Trappist Monastery of Port du of Port du Salut, Salut, IlIt was near Laval. Laval. The The name name of of Port-Salut Port-Salut was given 10 was given to itit by by aa near company established (Mayenne département) established at at Entrammes Entrammes (Mayenne dCpartement) company where ilit is is slill still made, made, as as weil well as as in in Trappist Trappist monasteries monasteries ail all where over the world, according the world, according 10 to aa secret good secret formula, formula. IlIt isis good over year. throughout the the yeaL throughout Pouligny.Saint-Pierre -- Famous Famous cheese cheese made made from from May Pouligny-Saint-Pierre to December December in in Berry, Berry. to Puant Macéré Macer6 -- Cheese Cheese from from Flanders, Flanders, in in season season from Puant November till till June, June. November Pultttst -- Norwegian mountain fann farm eheese cheese which can can be PuJliist year round, eaten ail all the year round. eaten Reblochon-- Soft cheese cheese made in Sa It is made of Savoy. of cows' Reblochon voy, Il milk and is is in in season season from Oelober October to June, June. milk Recollet de de Gérardmer G6rardmer -- Cheese Cheese from from the the Vosges, Vosges, in Récollet to April, April. season from from October to Remondur Belgian cheese cheese called called Fromage in Fromage piquant piquant ln Remondou -- Belgian season from season from November November to June. June, Riceys sometimes called called Champenois Riceys cendr6 cendré --'Cheese Chee se sometimes which September to June, June. which is in in season from from September Rigotte creamy goats' CondriellgoalS' cheese of Rigotte de Condrieu - Semi-hard, creamy the Lyon district which is in season from May Lyon district in season May to November. November. Rocamadou This community Rocamadour -- ThIS communily in the Lot, celebrated celebrated for its setting and its places of picturesque setting of pilgrimage, pilgrimage, has given ils picturesque its name to 10 a a very small ewes'milk ewes' milk cheese which is in season season ils name from from November November to May. May, Rollot Rollot - Cheese Cheese in in the form fonn of of a disc resembling Brie and Camembert, and Camembert, although although smaller. smalleL It lt is is also called Bigolot, Bigolol, and comes cornes from from Picardy. Picardy, It It is in season season from from October October to May. May, Romalour Romalour -- Cheese from from the the Loire district dislrict which can be be eaten eaten all aH the Ihe year year round. round, Roquefort Roquefort - The true true Roquefort cheese, cheese, made made in the the little litlle town that name ofthat name in in the the Saint-Affrique Saint-Affrique district (Aveyron), (Aveyron), is is town of manufactured manufactured exclusively exclusively from from ewes' ewes' milk, milk, sheep sheep being being the the only animais which which can subsist subsist on on the the arid pastures pastures of of the the only animals Causses. Causses, Corsica Corsica exports exports aa large large number number of of cheeses cheeses to 10 the the Causses Causses to 10 be'treated'in be 'trealed' in the the caves caves there. there. The this cheese The unique unique feature fea t ure of ofthis cheese isis that that the the curds curds are are mixed mixed with of breadcrumb. breadcrumb, The The bread bread is is dried and and with aa special special type type of then then ground ground to to aa fine fine dust, dust, in in which which aa special special greenish greenish mould mould is is allowed allowed to to develop. develop, To To ensure ensure the the right right conditions conditions for for ripening are stored stored in in damp, damp, cool cool caves caves (4" (4° to to ripening, the the cheeses cheeses are 8oC., g0c', 40o 40° to to 47'F.), 47°F,), such such as as the the natural natural caves caves which which are are to to be be found found in in the Ihe Causses Causses region. region, After After 30 30 or or 40 40 days, days, the the cheese cheese isis ready ready for for sale, sale, but but before before itil takes lakes on on the the pungent pungenl flavour flavour which which makes makes itit so so soughtsoughtafter after by by the the connoisseur, connoisseur, itil must must be be left left to to ripen ripen for for aa much much longer longer period. period, In ln fact, fact, in in the the view view of ofthe the experts, experts, itit should should be be kept kept for for ayear. a yeaL AA good good Roquefort Roquefort has has aa grey grey rind. rind, The Thecheese cheeseisisyellowish, yellowish, very very fatty fatly and and evenly evenly veined veined with with blue. blue, IfIf itit isÎs too too white white in in appearance appearance and and chalky chalky in in texture, lexture, itit isis not not completely complele!y ferfermented. mented,

2t4 214

CHEESE The Roquefort Roquefort season season lasts lasts from May to September September but The is eaten all ail the the year year round. round. A number number of of different different districts districts itit is in France France produce produce a Roquefort-type cheese but these may in not be be sold sold under under the the name name of of Roquefort. not Rouennais - Normandy Normandy cheese cheese which which is in season from Rouennais October to to May. October Rougeret -- Small goats' cheese made near near Micon. Mâcon. Is also Rougeret under the the name name of of Maconnet. Maconnet. known under known Saint-Agathon - Breton cheese chee se that that is is in in season season from Saint-Agathon October to to July. October in season season from Saint-Florentin - Burgundian Burgundian cheese, chee se, in Saint-Florentin November to July. It is soft and salty. salty. November chiefly at manufactured chiefly chee se, manufactured This cheese, Saint-Marcellin - This principal town town of the the Isdre Isère district, district, was Saint-Marcellin, principal goats' milk. Today, both milk. Today, from goats' formerly made exclusively from as aa subare used used as are added 'or br are cows' milk and ewes' milk are goats' milk. milk. It is in in season between May stitute for for goats' May and It is season between December. May to Saint-Maure -- Touraine cheese, in from May in season season from Saint-Maure November. It is aa soft, creamy, creamy, goats' milk cheese. November. and Saint-Rémi -- Square cheese made in Franche-Comté Franche-Comt6 and Saint-Rdmi Haute-Savoie. It is soft and resembles Pont-l'Evêque. PontJ'Ev6que. Sassenage made in in the the Sassenage - Semi-hard, blue-veined cheese made Isère; in season season from November to May. Isdre; Septmonceldcpartement which in the the Jura Jura département Septuoncel - Small village in has given its name to aa Roquefort-type comes Roquefort-type cheese which cornes me way from Saint-Claude. as Gex Gex way as made in in the same It isis made the sa from Saint-Claude. It cheese May. Curds and May. cheese and is at its best between between November and from put together, together, without are sometimes milkings are sometimes put from two two milkings mixing, to produce aa cheese 'bastard Septmoncel'. as'bastard cheese known as mixing, Serré in the residue in the The whey, whey, which which isis the the residue Serr6 or Seray Seray - The manufacture tains aa certain certain contains still con of cheese, cheese, sometimes sometimes still manufacture of quantity of casein of casein proportion of butter and and aa considerable considerable quantity and case where where is particularly the the case This is albumen. This and soluble albumen. curdling be (by scalding). The butter butter can can be quickly (by scalding). The curdling takes place quickly extracted from to become first allowed allowed to and if it is first whey, and from this whey, acid, By this this with rennet. rennet. By time with second time acid, it it can can be be curdled aa second means it is the containing the serum containing possible to the serum is possible to precipitate the soluble and lactose and from the the lactose and separate separate it from albumen, and soluble albumen, mineraI and is is used used both both serri and is called called serré This substance substance is mineral salts. salts. This as food. animal food. as human and animal In serri the serré Glaris district, district, the notably in in the the Glaris In sorne regions, notably some regions, (called celery (called ligger wild celery pounded with with herbs, herbs, wild ligger in in German) isis pounded in particular. which into slabs made into slabs which particular. This is dried and made dried and This mixture is are with butter, butter, this this and mixed mixed with Grated and are called called schabzigger. Grated cheese, in high high held in flavour, isis held aromatic flavour, has aa strongly strongly aromatic chegse, which has esteem years, under under the the For sorne some years, connoissuers. For by sorne esteem by some connoissuers. name and with butter, mixed with butter, and has been been mixed Glaris, itit has of Crème CrCme de de Glaris, name of sold paper. wrapped in in silver silver paper. sold wrapped Soumaintrin, Burgundian Saint-Florentin - Burgundian Soumaintrin, aJso also called called Saint-Florentin cheese made prime vintage among aU all those those made vintage among regarded as as the the prime cheese regarded in in Burgundy. valley in Burgundy. in the Armance valley the Armance It our, yellow in (1 lb.), in col colouro g. (1 lb.), isis yellow It weighs weighs approximately 500 g. approximately 500 with yellowish-orange rind, from NovemNovemin season rind, and and isis in season from with aa yellowish-orange ber ber to to July. July. Soya immemorial. ItIt isis from time made in in China China from time immemorial. Soya -- Cheese Cheese made the juices extracted from soya soya in the extracted from of fermentation the juices fermentation in the result result of beans. beans. The put are put by soaking, and swollen swollen by soaking, are The beans, beans, softened softened and through mixed with with aa press. The The liquid liquid thus thus extracted extracted isis rnixed through aa press. little tes into grey into aa grey It coagula coagulates magnesium. It little sulphate sulphate oflime of lime or or magnesium. mass curds. ferment like like curds. mass which which isis left left to to ferment Stilton cream milk with with cream whole milk from whole made from cheese made Stilton -- English English cheese added, The cheese cheese isis ripen. The long time to ripen. very long time to which takes added, which takes aa very marked not be be cut cut but but green streaks. should not grey and streaks. ItIt should with grey and green marked with scooped port should be or port should be little sherry sherry or centre. AA little out of of the the centre. scooped out poured into the cheese. poured onto the cheese. and left left to to soak soak into onto itit and Stracchino goats' cheese. cheese. Italian soft soft goats' Shaccbino -- ltalian

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cheese Stilton cheese Stilton

preparation, exexThis preparation, FoRT -- This FRoMAGE FORT cleese. FROMAGE Strong Strong cheese. well especially weIl and strong-smelling, strong-smelling, isis especially ceedingly savoury savoury and ceedingly and in in Corsica. Corsica. districts and and Lyons Lyons districts in the Morvan and liked in grated or milk cheese, cheese, salt salt or thinly thinly sliced sliced rnilk of grated Successive layers of put in in little cream, cream, are are put and mixed mixed herbs, herbs, and and sometimes sometimes aa !iule and jars, which with white white glazed stoneware which are are filled filled to to the the top top with stoneware jars, glazed and left left They are are hermetically sealed sealed and laced with with brandy. They wine laced weeks to ferment. in aa warm warm place for for 22 or or 33 weeks to ferment. in given in France to Dutch in France to Dutch T0te de de mort mort -- Name sometimes sometimes given Tête year round. round. all the the year Edam cheese. Good Goqd aU Edam cheese. varieties of which which several several varieties Savoy, of Tomme Tomme -- Cheese Cheese of of the the Savoy, are in in Tomme au an fenouil Beauges and and Tomme exist. Tomme de de Beauges ev,rst. Tomme fenouil are Boudave from from Tomme de de Boudave season from September September to to June, Jwe, Tomme season from October October to to July. July. popular variety most popular variety isis of which which the the most Trappistes Trappistes -- Cheeses Cheeses of Trappist made by by the the Trappist Port-Salul, because known known as as Port-Salut, because itit isis made There are are several in the Mayenne. There several monks Port-du-Salut in the Mayenne. monks of of Port-du-Salut Trappiste de de regions of France: Trappiste other in various various regions of France: other types types in (Normandy), (Burgundy), Trappiste Bricquebec (Normandy), Trappiste de de Bricquebec Citeaux Citeaux (Burgundy), (Picardy), Trappiste Trappiste de Saintede SainteMont-des-Cats (Picardy), Trappiste Trappiste de de Mont-des-Cats (Savoy). (Brittany) and Trappiste de Tamie (Savùy). de Tamie and Trappiste Anne-d'Auray Anne-d'Aur,ay (Brittany) year round. round. all the These These cheeses may be eaten aIl the year cheeses may be eaten

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White garnishedwith withradish, radish, White cheese cheese garnished anchovy andchives chives anchovyand

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CHEESE-RENNET CH EESE- RENNET Tro0-- Touraine Touraine cheese cheese in in season season from from May to January. Troo Troyes-- This This creamy creamy soft soft cheese, cheese, res,errlbJ:mg resembling '-Gl,lll

Viguerie Viguerie royale de Jurançon Jurangon

la Journée vinicole, a publication dedicated to the study and h Journie are in defence Its headquarters headquarters are defence of of wine wine development. development. Its Montpellier. This confrérie confririe L'Ordre L'Ordre illustre des chevaliers chevaliers de de Méduse Meduse -- This Provence, Cassis, Bandol, Côtes represents the wines wines of Provence, C6tes de Bacchic society society of ofthe Provence. ofan an ancient Bacchic tbe Provence. It is the revival of initiated in Toulon towards of the end of same name initiated in Toulon towards the same name the end Vauvray, seventeenth seventeenth century. The founder was Girardin de Vauvray, general administrator of the Far Eastern Eastern seas. persecutions Les Templiers Templien de la SerreSerre - To escape from from the persecutions Les of the Pope and the French King, Philippe Philippe le Bel, a number in Banyuls, of Templars Templars took Banyuls, which then a of refuge in which was was then took refuge protectorate They gave protectorate of Majorca. They Eaveaa considerable impetus is for for this and the wine-making wine-making industry. It is to to viniculture and reason that created an when the reason the vine-growers of Banyuls created that when wines, they chose the patroancient order to publicise their wines, farm of la la Serre, situated in in the nage of the Templars. The farm vineyards, is their headquarters.

is well headquarters are in the beautiful château chdteau known. Its beadquarters weil known. main celebrations confririe of celebrations of of the confrérie of Clos-Vougeot, Clos-Vougeot, where the main chaptels. The latter take place: tastevinages and official chapters. latter take take and Burgundy chants form of aa spectacle enlivened by chants and by Burgundy the fonn copious disnées dlsnleswashed down with followed by copious followed washed down with the the bestwines. best wines. people. foreigners as well weil as French people. It is attended by many foreigners kind are held several times times aa year, a this kind Celebrations of this Hospices de de Beaune. special one being the wine sale of the Hospices This is Glorianves of Buris the important of the This the most important the Trois Glorieuses year, near 22 January, the confrérie confrdrie organises a gundy. Each year, celebration in in one of tbe Saint-Vincent's Saint-Vincent's day celebration the villages of the honour of the patron saint of the vine-growers. Côte COte in honour

This confrérie, La Confrérie de Mlcon confririe, La Mâcon -- This Confr6rie Saint-Vincent Saint-Vincent de ofthe ofthe also under the protection of the patron patron saint of the vine, has MAcon and represents the wines wines of the its headquarters in in Mâcon its weil as tbose Pouilly-Fuissé. whole region as well those of Pouilly-Fuiss6. Les Piliers Plliers cbablisiens chablisiern -- Why this name of of Piliers? It is not 'pillars of members are are 'pillars of wines', because because the wines', but but because the members Burgundy. This nicknamed the 'Golden Gate' of Burgundy. Chablis is nicknamed confririe has borrowed borrowed its name and its hierarchy bierarchy very lively confrérie grand master is architecture. The The grand is called called the from from architecture. the grandThe chapters are conducted with earthy good with earthy architrave. The chapters are yearo at at the Each year, humour in in aa Chablisien Chablisien cellar. cellar. Each the end end of joyous feast 'Saint-Cochon' November, there is the feast of of 'Saint-Cochon' November, there is the joyous ('Saint Sucking-pig'). Sucking-pig'),

LOIRE VALLEY VALLEY --

Pouilly -- Based in Pouilly-surLa Confrérie Confrdrie des baillis de Pouilly 1949, has as in 1949, as its which was founded in Loire, this confrérie, confrine, which aim the the excellent dry dry wines promotion of the wines of Pouillyaim the promotion Fum6. Each is aa tasting of these wines wines in in Paris Fumé. Each year there is ta Confrérie Confr6rie des chevaliers chevaliers de la chantepleure Vouway La chantepleure de VouvrayChantepleure is is the picturesque name name for the tap, the Chantepleure the cask tap, wooden vine-grower places in the vat in order wood en spigot that the vine-grower it 'sings'; 'sings'; then to extract the wine. When When the tap to tap is turned it the wine'weeps'. wine 'weeps'. The wine dry or mellow, is Vouvray, dry still or or sparkling. sparkling. The wine is mellow, still year, in Twice aa year, in mid-June and and mid-September, an Twice an official official chapter is held in the Bonne Bonne Dame Dame cellars hollowed chapter hollowed out of of the confririe chalky soil on the banks of the Loire. This ancient confrérie was revived in in 1937. This, the most Confr6rie des chevaliers chevaliers de La Confrérie de Sancerre Sancerre -- This, publicising the recent of of the the confréries confriries vineuses, vineuses, aims aims at at publicising recent wines, rivais rivals of the Pouilly wines, and is excellent dry white wines, situated exactly opposite the Pouilly vineyards, on the Berry bank of the Loire. Confr6rie des tire-douzils -- Based in in Marigny-Brizay Marigny-Bizay in La Confrérie Vienne.

CHAMPAGNECHAMPAGNE des coteaux -- This This Champenois confrérie confririe is is the L'Ordre des the revival of aa Bacchic societyfounded society founded by Saint-Evremond, Saint-Evremond, le le comte marquis et le comte d'Olonne. d'Olonne. Boileau marquis de de Bois-Dauphin et alludes to in his The present-day to tbis this order order in his third third satire. present-day alludes satire. The confririe holds holds its its cbapters chapters in in the cellars or confrérie the cellars or estates estates of firms, as as well as in in other Champagne firms, weil as other parts of France, and great wines, abroad. Its are in Reims. The The great abroad. Its headquarters are in Reims. however, do not associate themselves with it.

MEDITERRANEAN REGIONREGION MEDITERRANEAN Le Conseil Conseil des des mestres mestres tastaires du du Languedoc Le Languedoc -- This confririe concerns produced in concerns itself itself with wines produced confrérie with the the wines in the departemenls of Tarn, Aude and Hérault. H6rault. départements LoOrdre des chevaliers chevaliers du cep -- This This order was created in L'Ordre EugEne Causse, editor-in-chief editor-in-chief of the newspaper 1951 by M. Eugène newspaper 264

CONVERSATION CONVERSATION

VAL DE DE LOIRE LOIRE VAL Bailly de de Bailly Pouilly-sur-Loire Pouilly-sur-Loire

Confr6rie des des Confrérie tire-douzilS lire-douzils

Chevalier Chevalier bretvin brelvin

Les Entonneurs Entonneurs rabelaisiens rabelaisietxi -- What What more more illustrious Les patron could one choose for the wine of Chinon Chinon than Maître Maitre patron Frangois Rabelais, Rabelais, born in in the town and great lover of his and aa great François 'Breton'wine. This confrérie confririe was founded founded in in 1962. 1962. lt It holds 'Breton' wine. This year, at one chapter chapter aa year, at the end of the end of September, September, in in the the Cave one at Chinon. Chinon. As is is the the custom, this this chapter is is accomPeincte at panied by bountiful repast, excellent excellent wines and traditional panied byaa bountiful entertainments. entertainments. L'Ordre des chevaliers bretvins -- This This confrérie, confririe, founded L'Ordre in 1948 1948 and and based in Nantes, aims at publicising in based in publicising Muscadet, the wine of this region, as weil well as regjonal regional dishes. Les Sacavins d'Anjou This is is the the oldest of the modern Les d'Anjou -- This confriries, founded in confréries, in 1905. Its headquarters are in Angers, and its its purpose It and purpose is to to publicise publicise the numerous Anjou wines. It organises large number of celebrations, chapters, chapters, and organises aa large number of tastings tastings in Anjou and elsewhere.

Chevalierde Chevalier de Sacavin Sacavin

Conger eels in an an aquarium aquarium

The best-known type is The is the the common conger, conger, the the flesh flesh of which resembles that of eels, but is less delicate. delicate. The conger used for making making fish fish soups, notably the bouillaeel is cruefly chiefly used baisse, but can be cooked in ways given can be given for eel in ail all the ways eel (see EEL).

SOUTH-WEST SOUTH-WEST La mousquetaires d'Armagnac -- Inspired La Compagnie Compagnie des des mousquetaires glorious memory by the glorious and his musketeers musketeers memory of D'Artagnon D'Artagnon and but of the but instead instead of of fighting fighting against against the the protectorship protectorship of Cardinal, Its headCardinal, it it rallies rallies to to the the cause cause of of Armagnac. Armagnac. Its quarters quarters are in Condom. Condom. La confririe La Confr6rie Confrérie des des alambics alambics charentais charentais - This is the confrérie of of Cognac. The purpose purpose of its celebrations is, of course, to make make the the famous famous brandy brandy even ev en better better known known and appreciated. La Confr6rie Confrérie Rabelais Rabelais de la'dive.bouteille'la 'dive-bouteiUe' - For the wines wines of of Gaillac. Gaillac. Le Le Consulat de de la la vinee vinée de de Bergerac - For the the wines of Bergerac. Bergerac. La La principautr6 principauté de France-Fineau France-Pineau -- This group, group, with with its capital capital in in Cognac, favours the Pineau of Charentes. It It endeavours to to make make this wine better known and and appreciated with with the the help of of numerous celebrations celebrations held both in France and abroad. La La Viguerie Viguerie royale royale de Jurangon Jurançon -- This confririe, confrérie, with its headquarters at Pau, Pau, has has taken taken up up the mission of defending and and promoting promoting the the wine wine that that was was so dear dear to to Henry Henry IV.

CONSOLANTE CONSOLAI\TE -- Glass of wine, beer or cider served to the team of of cooks in course of of their tbeir work.

CONSOMME -- Meat CONSOMMÉ Meat stock which has been enriched, concon(see BOUILLON, centrated and and clarified BOUILLON, Clarification clarified (see Clarfication of bouillon). bOUillon). For the the preparation preparation of of various various consomm6s consommés (simple For consommés, chicken, chicken, game, game, fish consomm6s, fish consommés) consomm6s) see see SOUP, Clear soups. soups. CONTISER -- Term for encrusting chicken chicken fillets, or those of CONTISER game or fish (chiefly (chiefly sole), with truffies trumes or other ingredients !ittle cocks' combs. These are soaked in cut in the shape of little order to make them. them. adhere adhere properly and set at egg white white in order egg regular intervals intervals into cuts cuts made in the fillets. regular CONVERSATION (PAtisserie) (Pâtisserie) - Roll out a piece piece of puff CONVERSATION

pastry pastry @Ate (pâtefeuilletée) which has has already been been rolled rolled out out five feuilletie) which DOUGH). Set Set out out tartlet tartlet moulds moulds close close together on times (see (see DOUGH). times a table, table, moisten moisten each each one slightly slightly and and lay lay the the pastry on top of the moulds. moulds. Flour Flour a lump of of pastry pastry and press press it gently into the

CONGER CON GER EEL. EEL. coNcnr CONGRE -- Large Large fish, fish, also also called called anguille anguille de de mer mer (sea (sea eel), eel), found found in in the the seas seas of of the the temperate temperate zone, zone, particularly particularly those those of of northern northern Europe. Europe. 265

COOK COOK while opSartyles looked looked after after the the fires, fires, did did rough rough jobs jobs and and while the the opsartytes prepared prepaœd food food for for the the household household slaves. slaves. A A woman, woman, the the demiourga, demiourga, only only made made sweetmeats sweetmeats and and other other delicacies. delicacies. Women Women had had free free access access to to the the kitchen. kitchen. Other Other slaves slaves prepared pœpared meals meals or or served served at at table. table. The The trapezopoioslaid trapezopoios laid the the table table and and washed washed the the dishes, dishes, the the oinophoros oinophoros had had charge charge of of the the wine, wine, the the guests. oinochoikos, oinochoikos, aa young young slave, slave, filled filled the the wine wine cups cups of of the the guests. In B.e., Athenian Athenian cooks, cook s, as as shown shown in in the the In the the fourth fourth century century B.C., Greek Greek theatre, theatre, were were often often slaves. slaves. They They played playcd an an important important judging by rdle rôle in in the the life life of of the the city, city,judging by the the taunts taunts poets poets levelled levelled at their their pretensions. pretensions. 'They 'They were were artists artists in in their their way; way; their their apprenticeship apprenticeship lasted lasted two Iwo years, years, under under the the direction direction of of aa cook cook of of reputation, reputation, and during during this this time time they they wore wore the the apron apron of of the the apprentice. apprentice. In In order to to acquire this this difficult difficult mdtier métier the the apprentice apprentice not not only only learnt learnt from from his masters, masters, he he was was given given books books which which set set down the rules rules of of his his art, art, and, and, if if zealous, zealous, spent spent his his nights nights studying studying them. 'It 'It was was only only after after long long study study that that he he could could aspire aspire to ta become become one one of of those artists artists whose whose names names were were quoted, quoted, and and who who became became famous famous through through the the creation creation of of a a single single dish.' dish.' (C. (e. Daremberg Daremberg and and E. E. Saglio, Saglio, Dictionnaire Dictionnaire des des antiquitds antiquités grecques grecques et el romaines.) romaines.) In In Greece, Greece, cooks cooks had had become become persons persons of of importance, importance, all the ruling ruling as as masters masters over over aIl the other other slaves slaves in in the the household. household. A A special law permitted permitted the the cook cook who who invented invented aa new new dish dish the the privilege of making privilege of making it il and and selling selling itit to to the the public. public. Many Many Greek Greek cooks left left famous famous names names behind. behind. Cadmos Cadmos and, according King of of Sidon was was cook to to the King Sidon in in Phoenicia, Phoenicia, and, according result of of the to legend, legend, introduced introduced writing writing into into Greece. Greece. As As aa result the only aa few burning of the library burning of library in in Alexandria, Alexandria, only few fragments fragments literature of Greek IiteralUre authors' names and the authors' names remain remain from from the the Greek of gastronomy. gastronomy. was rudiequipment was cooking equipment early Greek Greek cooking Although Although early rudigradually perfected. Caswere gradually mentary, mentary, kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were perfected. Casmade in gridirons were sometimes made were sometimes and gridirons seroles, cauldrons and in from Objects from precious magnfficently decorated. decorated. Objects and magnrncently precious metal metal and show their their Louvre in in Paris, Paris, show in the the Louvre Treasure, in Bosco-Reale Treasure, the Bosco-Reale splendour. like an an egg, egg' or or were shaped shaped like iron were bronze or or iron of bronze Cauldrons of Cauldrons cover. and aa cover. base, chains chains and with aa rounded rounded base, cone, with truncated cone, truncated common chutros, common and the the chu/ros, the chylra chytra and were the them were Among them Among (or pots without kakkabe (or the kakkabe without orna ornament, earthenware pOIS earthenware ment, the the pot, the metal basin, basin, the large metal the lebes, lebes, aa large metal kakkabos\, aa met kakkahos), al pot, pot, ancestor marmite. the mannite. ancestor of of the earthenware pot, olla, an earthenware frying pans, generally generally made bronze,and made of of bronze, and pans, Casseroles and Casseroles and frying we use use (the Greeks like those those we were like food) were pans (the fried food) Greeks enjoyed enjoyed fried pans with eggs, with cooking eggs, dishes for for cooking were special today. There There were special dishes today. row first row Athenaeus says: says: 'The sizes. Athenaeus 'The first different sizes. cavities of of different cavities gooses'eggs, to gooses' the peacocks' eggs, the second second to eggs, the belongs to the peacocks' eggs, the (Deipnosophistai.) These These utensils utensils third to chickens' eggs.' eggs.' (Deipnosophislai.) to chickens' third eugytheke' the eugylheke. placed on metal support, support, the on aa metal were usually placed were amphorae, double-bottomed amphorae, kettles or or double-bottomed Graceful bronze bronze kettles Graceful Food drinks. Food heat drinks. were used to heat used to double-boiler, were modern double-boiler, like aa modern the such as as the or metal metal utensils, utensils, such earthenware or was served served on on earthenware was the and the handles, and horizontal handles, with two two horizontal dish with kane, aa concave concave dish kane, pottery, bronze, silver or or bronze, silver from pottery, pazopsis, aa deep dish made made from deep dish pazopsis, plates served on on ichthuai, ichthuai, plates were served gold. Some dishes were even gold. Some dishes even richly vessels, richly drinking vessels, Greek drinking with fishes. fishes. Greek decorated with decorated poterion. patarion or or pOlerion. were called called pa/arion decorated, were decorated, were there were in Greece, Greece, there Rome, as as in In early early Rome, Roman cooking cooking -- In Roman was place. Cooking Cooking was Bakers took took their their place. such. Bakers no cooks as such. cooks as no cooks. no need need for for skilled skilled cooks. was no and tllere there was rudimentary and rudimentary (568 Great (568 the Great Antiochus the war against against Antiochus the war Not untiJ until after after the Not skilled employ skilled and employ have banquets banquets and Romans have the Romans B.C.), did did the Re.), important more important in society society became became more cook in The rôle rdle of of the the cook cooks. The cooks. bring Athens to to bring to Athens sent to deputation sent the deputation of the return of with the the retum with and Letters. Letters. Art and Greek Art to study study Greek Solon, and and to laws of of Solon, back the the laws back

each each mould mould so so that that the the pastry pastry adheres adheres to to the the bottom bottom and and

sides of of the the moulds. moulds. Half Half fill fi]] each each tartlet tartlet with with aa preparation preparation sides

of of almonds almonds made made according according to to the the directions directions for for Dartois Dartois

cakes cakes (q.v.), (q.v.), or or with with French French pastry pastry cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) to ta which which some sorne powdered powdered almonds almonds have have been been added. added. Moisten Moislen the the edges edges of of the the tartlets lartlets lightly lightly and and place place on on them them pastry pastry rolled rolled out out thinner thinner than th an the the first. firs!. Pass the the pastry-roller paslry-roller over the the tarts, tarts, cutting cutting the the pastry pastry on on Pass of the the moulds mou Ids and and sealing sealing the the edges. edges. the rim rim of the Make Royal Royal icing icing (see (see ICING) ICING) with with 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) Make icing king sugar sugar and and one one egg egg white white worked worked well weil together, together, adding adding aa

pinch of flour flour to to prevent prevent itit running. running. pinch of pastry crosswise crosswise on on top top of of the the tarts. tarts. Put thin thin bands bands of pastry Put Bake al aa moderate temperature. lemperature. Bake them lhem at

COOK cutstNGnE-Woman CUISINIÈRE - Woman responsible responsible for for the the preparation preparation COOK. and cooking of food. The term is also also used used in in France to and describe describe a small household cooking-stove. cooking-stove.

COOKIES COOKlES -- See BISCUIT. BISCUIT. wotd caisine cuISINE CUISINE - The French French word cuisine is used for of preparing dishes (cooking) (cooking) and the place place (kitchen) (kitchen) the art ofpreparing the in which they are prepared.

COOKING. COOKlNG.

Cooking is an ancient art, born when wh en primitive primitive man first tirst Cooking discovered that if if a hunk of meat was placed placed near the fire it it Some ingenious man easier to tasted better, better, and and was was easier to eat. eat. Some tasted stone hollowed found a way of heating water in a Slone hollowed out into a The spit basin. The clay vase vase succeeded this primitive primitive pot. po!. The and the pot, pot, however rudimentary in in the beginning, made as possible. Prehistoric Prehistoric finds such as many culinary operations possible. fragments of of pottery, pottery, flint and bronze bronze implements and traces fragments cooking. of hearths throw throw light on the origins of ofhearths ofcooking. described Cooking Cooking among the Egyptians and Assyrians is described BANQUET. under BANQUET.

cook Greek cook Greek

was the cook was the Greece the the only only cook In early early Greece Greek Greek cooking cookiry -- ln The name name baker. The real cook, cook, but but aa baker. not aa real who was was not mageiros, who mageiros, cakeo or or or kneaded cake, barley bread bread or madza, barley fuommagis, magis. mat!za, comes comes from knead. metto, to to knead. ftom masso, masso, malto, [rom Female exist. Female not exist. mageiros did did not the mageiros Homer's time time the In In Homer's to prepared the According to food. According the food. ground the corn and and prepared the corn slaves ground slaves exalted, however exalted, host himself, himself, however the host the Odyssey, Odyssey, the the the J/iad lliad and and the when friends when with the the help help of of friends meals with prepared and cooked the the meals prepared and cooked guests. distinguished guests. he received received distinguished he masters. for his his masters. well as as baked baked for cooked as as weil Later, the mageiros cooked Later,themageiros was and was de cuisine cuisine and or chef chef de archimageiros or In time he became In time he became archimageiros given assistants. assistants. given steward, slaves, under under aa steward, hierarchy of of slaves, had aa hierarchy houses Great ses had Great hou The opsonomos opsonomos duties. The definite dulies. had definite Each slave slave had eleatros. Each the the elealros. place) bought food, (ftom agora bought the the food, market place) or market agora or or or agorasles agorastes (from 266 266

COOKING COOKING itit is is 45 45 m. m. (148 (148 feet) long; long ; and this this will will not not astonish astonish you you when wh en thinking thinking of the the banquets he gives and the the great number number of of guests, guests, freed freed men men and slaves, he has to to feed. feed . Here the tbe fireplace elbow-high, but but vast vast and made made so as to draw off off the place is elbow-high, smoke smoke because, because, in in winter, winter, a a house house filld filled with witb smoke smoke is uninhabitable, uninhabitable, particularly particularly if if green green wood wood or or ne\il new brushbrushwood are are burnt. bumt. The The decoration decoration of of the kitchen kitchen has has a painting painting representing one of those ridiculous sacrifices sacrifices made to to the goddess Fortunax. This is surrounded with witb paintings paintings of of all ail the food necessary for a great great feast: fish ready for cooking; spit; birds, hares hams; hams; venison ready ready for for the the spit; hares and and many others objects. The floor is made made of a composition used in Greece, producing producing a fine black paving, well weil drained so even those walking barefoot barefoot are warrn. warm. as the 'Near subsidiary rooms, 'Near the the kitchen kitchen are are subsidiary rooms, such such as (earthenware pots dolia (earthenware oleariurn is kept in in great do/ia o/earium where wbere oil is horrewn where 123 cm. (four feet) in diameter); diameter): the horreum where aa great such as as winter many many things things are are kept, kept, such winter provisions, provisions, honey, honey, salt meats, and ail all the fruits, the provisions provisions fruits, dried dried raisins, raisins, salt meats, and necessary household. These storerooms are under necessary for for a great great housebold. the surveillance of aa storekeeper called promuscondus, promuscondus, who supplies and delivers delivers them to checks on ail all the foodstuffs and supplies The steward sees to steward sees to the mainthe servants when required. The tbe provisions the the storeamount of of provisions taining of of supplies; supplies; the the amount taining shops.' rooms contain make make them resemble actual shops.' the Romans were were similar in The kitchen utensils used by the used by material and shape to those used by the Greeks. For cooking craticula. They also had a great meat, they used a grill, called craticu/a. ladles, ail pastry moulds, more or all more moulds, sieves, sieves, skimmers, ladIes, many pastry use today. less like those we use and eating the GauJs Gauls -- Strabo Strabo wrote: eating habits of the Cooking and "The Celts eat bread small quantity with aa great deal deal bread in very small 'The grilled. Their meat either boiled, roast or grilled. Their rivers and and the boiled, roastor of meat provide fish, two seas fish, which which they them provide seas which which surround surround them two season with with cumin cumin and and vinegar as as oil oil isis scarce. scarce. They They add add season cumin to to ail all their beverages. cumin 'The ririch drink wine, wine, which which they they bring bring from from Italy Italy and and 'The ch drink Marseilles, and is served follows: aa servan and which is served as as follows: servantt brings Marseilles, in each each hand hand aa bowl bowl of of earthenware earthenware or or sil silver, similar to to aa in ver, sirnilar from the the draws from wine. Eacb Each one one draws filled with with wine. marmite, and and filled marmite, wine and wine time, but they drink often, often, and drunk at at aa time, bowl. Little is drunk almost always always unadulterated.' unadulterated.' isis almost given below dishes. The The recipes recipes given below loved spiced spiced dishes. The Gauls Gauls loved The show their for strong condiments: their taste taste for strong condiments: show Method of and trim of preparing cranes cranes and and ducks. ducks.'Wash trim the the Method 'Wash and (or the put itit in in an earthenware marmite. marmite. crane (or the duck) duck) and and put an earthenware crane put Add water, Let itit reduce reduce by half and water, salt salt and and dill. dill. Let by half and then then put Add the whole whole into into aa cauldron cauldron with with oil and broth, oil and broth, aa bouquet bouquet of of the point of marjoram and When the crane is is on and coriander. coriander. Wben the crane on tbe the point of marjoram cooked, add add aa ]jttle little heated heated wine. wine. Pour Pour over over aa mixture mixture being cooked, being lovage, cumin, rue coriander, roots roots of of honey, honey, lovage, cumin, coriander, of benzoin, benzoin, rue of pounded caraway, with vinegar. vinegar. Put Put sorne some starcb starch in in the the and pounded caraway, with and your crane pan and and make make the liquid boil. boil. Put Put your crane on on aa disb dish and and the liquid pan pour the the sa sauce over iit.' pour uce over t.' 'Make this Stuffing for with the meat of dormice. 'Make the meat of the the this with Stuffing for dormice. powdered pepper, pepper, nuts, dormouse with with powdered nuts, benzoin benzoin and and broth. broth. dormouse put them Put the the dormice dormice on on aa tile tile after after sewing sewing them them up up and and put them Put in the They can can also also be be cooked cooked in in aa copper copper boiler.' the oyen. oven. They boiler.' in Merovingians Cooking and eating habits hsbits of of the the Franks Franks and and Merovingiaœad eating Cooking 'Once established in Gaul, Gaul, the the Franks Franks imitated imitated the the luxurious luxurious established in 'Once example set Romanised Gauls. They ate reclining on by the the Romanised Gauls. They ate reclining on set by example couches in in dining-rooms, dining-rooms, around decorated with with around tables tables decorated couches The Franks Franks borrowed borrowed various various dishes dishes from from the the flowers. The flowers. Gauls, and and their their cooking cooking remained remained very very much much the the same same as as Gauls, that of of the the Romanised Romanised Gauls, Gauls, entirely entirely Roman. Roman. Pepper, Pepper, that plants honey, wine, vinegar, meat meat broth wine, vinegar, broth and and aromatic aromatic plants honey, (From l'Art formed the seasonings.' (From I'Art Culinaire, the basis basis of of ail all seasonings.' Culinaire, formed marquis de de Cussy.) marquis Cussy.)

Cooks and and gastronomes gastronomes were were brought brought to to Rome, Rome, and and formed fonned Cooks society, one one of of their their number number calling calling himself himself vicarias vicarius supra supra aa society, Under Hadrian Hadrian an academy, Collegium coquorum coquorum coenas. Under coenas. was formed. formed. Cooks Cooks were were highly highly paid. paid. The The triumvir triumvir Antony Antony was gave gave a house house to Cleopatra's Cleopatra's cook as a reward reward for an adadmirable meal. meal. mirable In large large Roman Roman households, households, the the kitchen kitchen slaves each had In was the the coquus, coquus, who who resembled resembled the tasks. There was specific tasks. gros fi.res gros bonnet ('big noise'), noise'), the focarizs, focarius, who who kept kept the the fires going, going, the the coctor, coctor, who who superintended certain certain dishes, dishes, the the pistor pinsitor, who who was was kitchen kitchen help, help, preparing the pistor or pinsitor, various foods (the Romans had a taste stuffings, pounding various purées), and and grinding grinding corn for bread bread and cakes. for pur6es),

Underground Underground Roman kitchen (rrom Antiquités civiles (from de Vogüé, Vogii6, Antiquitds de Syrie) Syrie) religieuses de civiles et religieuses

Many attached to the kitchen and dining-room. Many slaves were were attached The con dus managed the household, and ordered and stored stored condus the cellar, the the structor managed the the cellar, the food. food. The The doliarius doliariu.s managed arranged captor carved the captor food on on the serving platters, the arranged the food the meat, meat, the the proegustator, aa reliable man, tasted the dishes, and the aquarius was responsible responsible for the supply of water. (dining-room) was who In iarch a, who tricliniarcha, was the the triclin In the triclinirnn (dining-room) the triclinium pocillator, was the pocillator, household today, the was like the butler in aa large household who poured wine, high-ranking nomenclator, aa high-ranking and the who poured wine, and the nomenclator, protocol. servant, responsible for protocol. servant, responsible For aa long time in ancient Rome, the Republic, Republic, Rome, and and under under the pulmentus, made gruel, puis puls or made with the or pu/mentus, food was was aa gruel, chief food the chief pounded barley or (German wheat). was roasted, roasted, pounded This was wheat). This or spelt spelt (Gennan porridge like and like the polenta to make make aa porridge with water, to and cooked cooked with still cauldron. This was was made made in in aa bronze bronze cauldron. Italy. This still eaten eaten in in Italy. potages and Our terms potdes, potages and pot-au-feu for liquids liquids like potées, terms for (to drink). potare (to derive potus from drink). word potus from potare derive from from the the Roman word Under gluttony and and extravagant extravagant decadence, gluttony Under the Empire, decadence, the Empire, luxury cooking. of Roman Roman cooking. characteristic of luxury became the characteristic became the Carême, was declared that that itit was the Roman Roman cuisine, cuisine, declared Car6me, who who studied studied the heavy Romans carried carried their their refinement. The The Romans heavy and and without without refinement. taste measures had had restrictive measures extremes that that restrictive taste for for meat meat to to such such extremes to which Pliny Pliny tells tells us us ate elephant, elephant, of of which They even even ate to be be taken. taken. They only roealso of of three three roeHe writes writes also favour.. He only the the trunk trunk found found favour buck, Herds of of these these animais animals as aa first first course. course. Herds the table table as set on buck, set on the were set parks in Tarquinia. in the neighbourhood of of Tarquinia. in parks the neighbourbood set up up in The animals, to wild wild animais, The Romans Romans did confine themselves themselves to not confine did not eating puppies: dormice with chestnuts, chestnuts, eating puppies: fattened with dormice especially especially fattened acorns pigs kept guinea pigs called the the kept in in aa cage cage called acorns and nuts; and and guinea and nuts; gliriarium. gliriarium. Mazois, kitchen in in described tbe the kitchen Palais de de Scaurus, Scaurus, described Mazois, in in the the Palais the great Roman: house of Roman: the house of aa great 'Scaurus' 'Scaurus' kitchen its dimensions are enormous, enormous. kitchen isis arched, arched. its dimensions are

267 267

COOKING COOKING end of At the period the the end of the the Merovingian Merovingian period the convents, convents, which which At preserved ail had preserved gourmands, increased all the the traditions traditions of of the the gourmands, increased had in number progress was great progress number in in France, France, and and great was made made in in cookcookin ing. ing. French cooking in the Middle Ages cooking in the Middle Ages -- Viollet-le-Duc gives aa Viollet-le-Duc gives French picture of of what what kitchens kitchens were were like like at at the the time: time: picture 'In the the houses houses of of the the Middle Middle Ages, Ages, chimneys chimneys were were large large and and 'In get inside high; aa man man could could get inside the the chimney chimney without without bending, bending, high; and ten people could ten or or twelve twelve people could sit sit easily easily round round the the hearth. hearth. and Inside these chimneys strong strong and these chimneys andirons, called landiers, landiers, were were Inside irons, called needed to to hold hold the put on the enormous enormous logs logs that that were were put the tire, fire, on the needed prevent them and to from rolling rolling into to prevent them from into the the room. There There were were and andirons for for the the kitchen kitchen and and for for other other rooms; rooms; the the former former andirons were complicated complicated in in form form because put to because they they were were put various to various were uses. Their Their uprights uprights were were furnished furnished with with supports supports or hooks or hooks uses. to take take the the spits; spits; they they were were surmounted surmounted by by an an extension extension in in to the form form of of aa small small brazier prebrazier on on which which dishes dishes could could be be prethe pared or or kept kept warm. warm. pared 'The division division of of stoves into sever compartments as in our stoves into several our 'The al compartments day, was was seldom seldom seen. The dishes were seen. The were cooked cooked on on the the tire fire day, itself, and and these these fierce fierce fires did not not allow fires did allow for for dishes dishes which itself, needed constant constant stirring, stirring, or or to to be made in in frying frying pans. needed 'The andiron-braziers, andiron-braziers, tilled filled with with charcoal, charcoal, were were at at aa 'The convenient height height and at aa distance distance from from the fire. fire. Sometimes Sometimes convenient they were were divided divided into into two two compartments, compartments, in in which which case case it it they possible to was possible prepare and to prepare and cook cook four four dishes dishes outside outside the was pots, suspended from hearth. Over the hearth hearth hung hung pots, from hooks or hearth. tripods; in in front front of of the the tire fire one one or or two two spits spits turned several tripods; pieces of meat. Only in in this this way way could could aa large large me meal pie ces of meat. Only al be prepared. prepared. 'Before the twelfth century, the twelfth century, only only roast meats and and boiled 'Before vegetables were were eaten, eaten, and and the the art art of making stews of making stews was vegetables almost unknown. unknown. What What was good c1ear was needed were good clear tires, fires, almost needed were large hearths which many on which many long long spits spits could could be be set, set, and large hearths on hanging vast cauldrons. space for for hanging The architects architects of put ovens in of the twelfth twelfth century began to put 'The kitchens, arrange food before serving kitchens, and tables on which to arrange before serving it. From Frorn the fourteenth fourteenth century onwards, sauces were much it. appreciated. Ovens were needed to Ovens were to make the many dishes which at the the big feasts of the time. which were were served at feasts of time. The equipment ment of of the the kitchens kitchens began to to improve. improve. 'In the castles and and convents convents of of the Ages, the 'In the casties the Middle Middle Ages, chimney was chimney was not not always built built against the wall in in the room kept cooking, but kept for for cooking, but was sometimes sometimes built built in in the middle of of

vaulted roof, roof, and and the the vaulted centre of hearth set set in in the room. the hearth the centre of the the room. the A kitchen kitchen like like this resembled aa tower, this resembled tower, open open at at the the top, top, A joists to without joists to separate intervening space separate the the intervening into floors, space into floors, without and with with the the diameter diameter decreasing decreasing towards towards the the top. top. Such and Such aa kitchen can can still still be be seen seen in Popes at at A in the the Palace Palace of Avignon.' of the the Popes kitchen vignon.' French cooking cookirE in in the the fourteenth fourteenth and and fifteenth fifteenth centuries centuries -French Information on on cooking cooking at at this this time time isis found found in tn lele Viandier Viandier Information Taillevent. by Taillevent. by gruel, made were aa gruel, made with Soups were with milk, milk, often often flavoured flavoured with Soups with honey, saffron saffron and and sweet sweet wine wine and and thickened thickened with with moyeux moyeux honey, (egg yolks) yolks) and and butter. Rice soups butter. Rice soups were were made made and and various (egg various garbures (q.v.). (q.v.). They pur6es like like garbures (sops). They were were called called soupes soupes (sops). purées Brouet was made of was made of ca calves' meat, with with fowl fowl or Brouet Ives' meat, or conies conies (rabbits) cut pieces, browned (lard) with cut into into pieces, browned in in sein sein de de lard lard (lard) (rabbits) with and crushed onions and crushed almonds, almonds, and and moistened moistened with with wine wine and and onions (hotchpotch) was stock. The The hochepot hochepor (hotchpotch) was similar similar to to brouet, brouet,but stock. but grilled bread grated breadcrumbs were bread or or grated were added added as as thickenthickengrilled (which did ing. Galimafrée Galimafrie (which did not not have have its modern modern connotations connotations ing. with bad stew, mauvais ragoût), ragoitt), was bad stew, was made made with with mutton mutton or with or cooked, chopped, chopped, simmered simmered with onion onion and and moistened fowl, cooked, with cameline cameline sauce. sauce. with gives recipes Taillevent gives recipes for for seventeen seventeen sauces, sauces, including including Taillevent sauce Robert, Roberl, so so wholesome wholesome and and necessary, necessary, according according to sauce to for duck, pork, eggs, duck, rabbits, roasts, fresh pork, eggs, salt Rabelais, for salt cod cod Sauces were thickened with bread. and other meats. Sauces

Italian kitchen kitchen of of the the sixteenth siXleenth century. century. After After Christiano Christiano di Messiburgo, Messiburgo, Ferrara, Ferrara, 1549 View View ofthe of the kitchen kitchen ofFontevrault of Fontevrault Abbey Abbey

French French cooking cooking in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century century -- Under U nder Frangois François I, 1, the days days of of feasting and drinking, drinking, as recounted by Rabelais, Rabelais, were were revived. revivcd. The The first tirst real real cookery books books date from from this time. In 1543,la 1543, la Fleur Fleur de toute toute cuisine, by by Pierre Pierre Pidoux. Pidoux, and and in 1570, 1570, the Viandier de Taboureau, appeared. appeared. Cooking flourished flourished in this reign. reign. The refinements retinements of the Italian ltalian Renaissance Renaissance had had penetrated penetrated into into France, France, and French banquets banquets became became more more splendid than ever. ever. Menus included included fish, tish, fowl, feathered game and venison, venison, but meat meat and and vegetables vegetables featured featured little. little. Kitchen Kitchen utensils utensils were were now now augmented augmented by by vast vast copper daubiers daubiers (q.v.). (q.v.). 268

COOKING COOKING and great interest in food, food, and interest in took aa great All Ali the grands grands seigneurs took gave their masters' their masters' interest, gave grateful for for this this interest, master cooks, grateful immistaken imgave rise the mistaken rise to to the This gave dishes. This names to new names to new dishes. they names they whose names by those those whose created by pression pression that dishes were created de Béchamel. B6chamel. marquis de withBCchamel,calledafter bore, as with Béchamel, called after the marquis preceding in the the preceding those in than those manners were were simpler than Table manners for aa true true heavily for too heavily XIV ate ate too Louis XIV Although Louis century. Although century. dishes served served having dishes of having habit of the habit gourmet, he he established established the gourmet, together, was thrown thrown together, his time everything was separately. Before his separately. in his his Boileau in by Boileau pyramid described described by miking aa monstrous pyramid making Festin ridicule: poulets étiques, itiques, de six six poulets liivre flanqué Sur un un lièvre Sur flanque de dome stique s, animaux domestiques, lapins, animaux tr o is lapins, S' i le vaient trois S'élevaient Paris, dans Paris, Clevis dans enfance élevés tendre enfance dis leur leur tendre Qui, Qui, dès nounis. dont ils chou dont ils furent le chou encor le Sentaient encor Sentaient furent nourris. entassCes, viandcs entassées, de viandes cet amas amas de de cet Autour de pressies, d'alouettes pressées, cordon d'alouettes m long long cordon Rignait un Régnait pigeons étalés Ctalds plat, six six pigeons &t plat, les bords bords du Et sur les brttlis. squelettes brûlés. renforts leurs leurs squelettes Prisentaient pour renforts Présentaient

In ln the the following following reigns reigns expense expense had had to to be be cut down owing owing

to to imperial imperial and and religious religious wars. wars. Prosperity Prosperity returned returned under Henry Henry II, II, and cooking made made rapid rapid progress. progress. Feasts Feasts were magnificent. A A meal meal served to Henry II II himself himself included a magnificent. profusion profusion of lampreys lampreys in Hippocras Hippocras santce, sauce, hot-pots, hot-pots, ducklings d à la la Malvoisie, Malvoisie, slices slices of muraena muraena (an (an eel-like eel-like fish) lings sauce of of egg egg yolks and herbs, ducks ducks dà la didone, served with with a sauce served sturgeon fillets fillets dà la la lombarde, lombarde, quarters of of roebuck, partridges sturgeon tonelette, and and a whole series series of of puddings such as darioles dà la tonelette, and ichaudes. échaudes. cooks and end of the the sixteenth century, century, Italian Italian cooks At the end of Catherine pastrycooks came to France France under under the influence influence of pastrycooks maitres queux and Marie de Medici. At this time the Italian maîtres

(head chefs) world. They in the the world. chefs) were considered the the best best in remained in the taught the French many recipes which have remained taught aware of French culinary repertoire. repertoire. Cooks Cooks were already aware were already French rôle and social importance. importance. their r6le cooking in the seventeenth century -- The The reign reign of French cookirg King which the King 'hen'which famous 'hen' Henry IV is symbolised by the famous wished all ail his subjects to be able to put in the pot on Sundays. wished had little significance the reign significance during the Although cooking cooking had of Louis Louis XIII, XIII, it founded on on the impetus founded received an an impetus it received of Français by by La in 1651, which appeared in Varenne, which La Varenne, Cuisinier Frangais the first book to fix the rules and principles of working, and working, and In 1691 1691 the the Cuisinier Cuisinier in cooking. cooking. ln order in to establish establish some some order et Bourgeois Bourgeois by Massialot, giving precise instructions, instructions, Royal et appeared. more varied, varied, was growing more appeared. It It showed that cooking was and people or royal or royal famous people after famous named after and dishes dishes were were named favourites. Menus o//a Spanish o//a olh -- the the Spanish mention the the o//a Menus mention favourites. removes and and podrida -- multiple hors-d'œuvre, monumental removes hors-teuvre, monumental entremets way. in aa logical way. arranged in entremets (q.v.). Courses were arranged During rather was spectacular spectacular rather Siicle cooking cooking was During the the Grand Siècle than fine or delicate. than fine or delicate. ln of the the utensils of XIV the culinary utensils Louis XIV the culinary In the the reign reign of of Louis Middle (see caisine (see de cuisine Batterie de replaced by by aa Batterie Middle Ages Ages were were replaced KITCHEN pots many new new pots included many KITCHEN EQUIPMENT) EQUIPMENT) which included and silver utensils utensils Later, silver iron. Later, and wrought wrought iron. and pans in in tinplate tinplate and were used. used. The in his his château ch0teau Fouquet in festivities of of Superintendent Superintendent Fouquet The festivities de were at Chantilly, Chantilly, were Prince of of Condé Cond6 at and of of the the Prince de Vaux, Vaux" and particularly particularly sumptuous. was maître maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel Vatel was The famous famous Vatel sumptuous. The of position. very important important position. the Grande Grande Condé, Cond6, aa very of the

pullets emaciated pullets six emaciated by six surrounded by hare surrounded top of of aa hare On On top animals, domestic animais, rabbits, domestic Lay three three rabbits, Lay in Paris, Paris, infancy in tender infancy their tender raised since since their Who, raised Who, fed. had been been fed. which they they had on which cabbage on the cabbage still of of the Smelt Smelt still piled up meats up meats of piled mass of Round this this mass Round pressed larks, larks, of pressed long border border of Reigned Reigned aa long pigeons spread out spread out dish, six six pigeons the dish, edges of of the And the edges And on on the reinforcement. as aa reinforcement. skeletons as their burnt burnt skeletons Exposed Exposed their were quantity of dishes were gteat quantity of dishes century aagreat ln In the the seventeenth seventeenth century the of the many descriptions descriptions of are many and there there are meal, and served at each each meal, served at XIV. Louis XIV. of Louis table of royal table meals at the the royal meals served served at and King eat, eat,and the King seen the have seen wrote; '1'I have The cess wrote; Princess The Palatine Palatine Prin entire an entire soups' an plates of different soups, of different that four plates often, four that very very often, cut mutton cut plateful of of salad, salad, mutton large plateful partridge, aa large pheasant, pheasant, aa partridge, plateful piecesof harn, aaplateful good pieces of ham, garlic, two up two good with garlic, its juice with up in in itsjuice jams.' of and jams.' and fruit fruit and of cakes, cakes, and eaten 'All his life he hehad hadeaten his life And Saint-Simon, 'Ali to Saint-Simon, And according according to part as as past only thesoft soft part only the time past for some some time very and for little bread, very little bread, and and fine hashes hashes and quantities, fine large quantities, he in very very large no teeth. Soup in he had had no teeth. Soup atewas wasvery very heate Everything he eggs as aa supplement. supplement. Everything were used used as eggs were thecase, case, asisisordinarily ordinarily the asspiced highly spiced as least twice at least twice as highly spiced, spiced, at the that the Louis XIV XIV that to Louis due to and was due indeed.' ItIt was and very very strong strong indeed.' days, for tête fEte days, reserved for custom formerly reserved sweets, formerly serving sweets, custom of of serving was daily use. use. into daily was introduced introduced into great houses and houses and the great Menus copious inin the equally copious Menus were were equally chefs, masterchefs, andthe themaster among time, and ofthe the time, rich bourgeois among the the rich bourgeois of great deal deal meals had preparedthese hadaagreat or thesemeals who prepared or cordons cordans bleus, bleus, who to do. to do. judgedthe the Historyhas hasjudged French Regency - - History theRegency underthe French cooking cooking under years under under eight But, ifif the theyears years of Regency severely. severely. But, eight years of Regency politically and andeconomieconomiPhillipe were disastrous disastrous politically Phillipe d'Orléans d'Orl6ans were gastroregardsgastrocally, distinction asasregards leastsome some distinction hadatat least cally, they they had nomy. fromthis thistime. time' datesfrom Frenchcuisine cuisine dates Thetrue true French nomy. The great houses houses inin While ofthe thegreat lasted, the theovens ovensof Regency lasted, While the the Regency giftedcooks who the cookswho andthe thegifted evercold, cold,and hardly ever kingdom were werehardly thekingdom and directed Trianon and Royal,the theTrianon PalaisRoyal, of the thePalais kitchens of directed the the kitchens the cely houses refined table table therefined satisfythe princely hadtotosatisfy houseshad the other other prin companions guestsof Regent. theRegent. ofthe theguestr'If"'rllln1 forcemeat. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs and deep-fry in hot fat. egp -- See See EGGS, Basic egg dishes. &rambled Scrambled eggs snouIt.r6s AÀ oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled J'américaine. OEUFS Scrambled eggs ài I'am6ricaine. scrambled eggs, eggs, diced diced bacon L'AM"ÉRICATNe -- Add to te the bacon r'.lMfnrc^clNr the scrambled grilled bacon and with rashers fried in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with rashers of grilled fried in halved grilled tomatoes. with sliced The same same name The name is is used used for for scrambled eggs with for these I'americaine. Recipes for lobster or lobster àtt l'americaine. lobster or spiny lobster Scrambled eggs à d I'armoricaine found under under Scrambled will be found dishes will (see below). A r'lNcreNNE BRouILLfs À &rambled eggs àI l'ancienne. L 'ANCIENNe I'ancienne. OEUFS oEUFs BROùlLLÉS Scrambled eggs -- Add mushrooms and diced truffles tossed in butter, to the diced trufres scrambled Arrange in a flan case baked blind. Garnish Garnish scrambled eggs. Arrange Veloutd sauce sauce (see with in sherry-flavoured Velouté with cocks' (see cocks' kidneys in cocks' combs combs àd la /a SAUCE) with cocks' with crearn. cream. Surround Surround with SAUCE) with (se SAUCE). VillerOÎ Villeroi and and sherry-flavoured sherry-flavoured Suprdme sauce (see Scrambled eggs Ift I'antiboise. oEUFs OElJFS nnouu,rfs BROUILLÉS A À Scrambled eggs L'ANTlBOISE L'ANTIBoIsE -- Arrange scrambled scrambled eggs in aa deep ovenproof saut6ed in in oil, with sliced sliced courgettes courgettes sautéed dish, oil, and dish, alternating alternating with with Toma 10 fondue fondUl! (see FONDUE). Finish with wÎth aa layer of Tomato grated Parmesan melted butter. Parmesan and and melted Sprinkle wÎth with grated eggs. butter. eggs. Sprînkle Brown in aa hot oyen. oven. ARGENTEUIL sRouII-rEs ARGIlNTEUIL orurs BROUILLÉS Scrambled Argenteuil. OEUFS Scrambled eggs Argenteiril. white asparagus asparagus tips, -- Gamish the scrambled with white scrambled eggs eggs with Garnish the simmered in in butter. water and and then ha If cooked in then simmered half in salted salted water (sw SAUCE). Decorate with with Cre sauce (see Surround am sauce Surround with Cream crofftons fried croûtons fried in butter. snouLrfs AÀ I'arlesienne. oEUFs Scrambled OEUFS BROUILLF-S eg5 lii l'arlésienne, Scrambled eggs garlic-flavoured eggs with L'ARLÉSIENNE -- Scramble the eggs with garlic-flavoured L'ARL6$eNI.rE Scramble the courgettes in butter. FONDUE). Cook courgettes Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). pulp and mix the and rnix Halve rernove the the chopped pulp Halve them, remove the pulp Fill the halved with the scrambled halved courgette skins with scrambled eggs. FiJI and put them in aa buttered fireflrethe scrambled the scramblod egg mixture and grated Pannesan proof with grated Parmesan and proof dish. and melted melted dish. Sprinkle with (see with TomaLO Tomato sauce (see butter. the top. top. Surround Surround with butter. Brown the SAUCE). nnourrfs À.4, I'armoricaine. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLÉS Scranbled eggs i l'armoricaine. &rambled L'ARMoRIcArrqE -- Arrange the scrambled eggs in a deep dish, L'ARMORICAINE of Lobster Lobs/er or or Sptny lobster lobs 1er àit alternating with with aa salpicon of r\T~ .. ·rr;n l'américaine Put slices of lobster or spiny l'amdricaine (see LOBSTER). sauce (see with Americut and surround American sauce surround wîth lobster on on the eggs and SAUCE). sAUCE). lux snounr6s AUX oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled Scrambled eggs with artichokes. OEUFS artichoke ARTIcHAUTFMix the scrambled eggs with cooked artichoke hearts, hearts, sliced or diced, and saut6ed in butter. butter. in butter. saut6ed in sliced artichoke artichoke hearts Garnish with with sliced hearts sautéed butter, Garnish

Eggs ài la provengale A ra provençale 1I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS LA orurs À pRovENgALE-- Arrange Arrange each cooked egg on a halved tornato tomato

ROY ALE RoyALE

cooked in oil. oil. Cover clear, garlic-flavotrd Tomato Coyer with with c1ear, garlic-flavoured Tomalo (see FONDUE). with coarsely coarsely diced fondue (sec FONDUE). Garnish Garnish with fondue

aubergines fried aubergines fried in oil. oiL Sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. pRovENgALE (srr le plat). OEUFS provengale tr Eggs à i la provençale onurs.iÀ LA PROVENÇALE Eggs li (sor -- Rub individual individu al ovenproof dishes with garlic and line hne them thern with slices of aubergines fried in in oil. aubergines fried Break in the eggs and oiL Sreak bake (see oven. Pour ring of bake in in the the oyen. Provençale sauce Pour aa ring of Provengale sauce (see SAUCE), SA UCE), round the yolks. pRowNgALE Eggs àt la provengale ID m (fried). oEUFs A rl PROVENÇALE (friOO). OEUFS À LA Fry the eggs in oil and arrange each one on a halved tomato fried in oil. Garnish with slices of of aubergine, aubergine, fried in oil, and fried parsley. parsley. pnovsNqAlE -(fried). OEUFS provengale IV (friOO). Eggs ài la provençale oEr.rFs À A LA r.l PROVENÇALE Spread thinLy thinly sliced sliced aubergines, aubergines, fried fried În in oH, oil, on on aa dish. with halved tomatoes, seeded, and Alternate with tornatoes, pressed, seeded, fried and fried in oil. oil. Arrange friod eggs eggs on on this this layer, sprinkle with in Arrange fried layer, and and sprinkle sizzling butter butter to which 1I tablespoon chopped parsley mixed rnlxed sizzling chopped parsley with chopped chopped garlic has been added. jelly). onurs (glazed in Eggs àt la la provengale V Eggs V (glazed OEUFS A À LA in jelly). r,c, pRovENqALB - Coat the eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or poached) with PROVENÇALE with tomato-flavoured, gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. tomato-l1avoured, gelatîne-strengthened mayonnaise. jelly. Arrange glaze with and glaze with jelly. Decorate with tarragon leaves leaves and each egg on a halved tomato, (Ornato, which has been seeded, steeped oil, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, in oil, pepper, stuffed with diced diced potatoes and aubergines, garlic-flavoured mayonaubergines, and dressed with garlic-flavoured and dressed and garnish with chopped naise. Arrange the eggs in a crown and garnish parsley. Rachel eggs (fried). OEUFS oEUFs RACHEL - Fry the eggs in butter. RAcHEL Trim with a round pastry-cutter, pastry-cutter, leaving only a thin band of

white. Arrange Arrange each egg on a slice of of bread fried in butter. Coyer Cover (see SAUCE). Top with with Marrow sauce sauce (sec slice of wilh a a thin thin slice with marfow. marrow. (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS Eggs à t Ia reine 1 I (soft-boiled ontns A RErNE Eggs la reine À LA REINEArrange the cooked eggs in in tartlets tartlets filled with Chicken the cooked filled wHh purie (see PURÉE), (see PUREE), and coyer cover with with Suprême SuprAme sauce sauce (see

SAUCE). (srr le Eggs t la reine II II (sur le plat or la reine or en en cocotte). OEUFS orurs A Eggs À rl LA REINEButter the ovenproofegg REINE - Butter ovenproof egg dishes or cocolles cocottes and pipe aa border of Chicken purée (se PURÉE) Chicken purie PUREE) through a forcingbag. Break Break in in the the yolks with thick the eggs. Surround the chicken Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) with cream. Cook in the oyen. oven. (fried). oEUFs Eggs ài la la romaine (fried). A LA r-l ROMAINE RorvrlrNr -- Fry the OEUFS À eggs in oil. Toss chopped spinach in oil. Toss in Noisette Noiselle buller butter (se BUTTER, Compound Cornpoundbutters) bUllers) and mix with diced anchovies. Arrange the on top, with more more noiselle sprinkle with Arrange the eggs top, and and sprinkle eggs on noisette butter. huiler. Rossini I (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS oEUFs ROSSINI RossINI -Rossini eggs 1 Arrange saut6ed in Arrange each cooked egg on aa slice of foie gras gras sautéed în butter. in butter. Cover butter. Top with 2 slices of truffie truffle tossed in Coyer (se SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce (sec with Madeira-flavoured Alternatively, arrange the eggs in puff pastry tartlets ]ined lined with coarsely dicdfoie gras. Garnish with slivers of truffies. trumes. (see Boil down aa Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Boil down SAUCE), add butter, and and pour over the eggs. UCE), add SA (srr le plat or en cocotte). Rossini tr (sur cocotte). OEUFS oEr.rFs ROSSINI Rossrm -Rossini eggs U Break eggs inlo into buttered or cocolles cocottes Break the eggs buttered ovenproof dishes or lined with salpicon of foie gras and trufres. in the gras and trumes. Bake in lined with aa salpicon oven. Surround with concentrated Madeira-tl.avoured Madeira-flavoured Demioyen. glace sauce (see SA UCE) with butter added. SAUCE) Rothomago eggs (wr le plat). oEUFS RorHoMAco Rothomago (sur le plat). OEUFS ROTHOMAGO -- Line the slices of ham tossed in in butter. ham tossed butter. the ovenproof dishes with with slîces Break in the eggs and and cook cook in in the usual way. Garnish with usual way. grilled chipolata chipolata sausages. sausages. Surround Surround with with Tomalo Tomato sauce grilled SAUCE). (see SA UCE). 349 349

EGGS and bread bread cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter. butter. Surround with conCOI')Surround with and

Velouti Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) basod based on fish tish stock and mixed

centrated veal stock. Scrambled eggp eggs i!li la Bercy. oEUFs OEUFS BRoInLus BROUILLÉS A À LA BERcY BERCY Scrambled the scrambled eggs in in a a deep deep dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with Arrange the chipolata. sausages, sausages, grilled grilled or cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Surround Surround chipolata Tomato sauce sauce (see SA UCE). SAUCE). with Tomato Scrambled eggs with clpes. cèpes. oEUFs OEUFS BRounrfs BROUILLÉS lux AUX cipss CÈPES Scrambled Sauté sliced cipes cèpes rn in butter butter or or oil. Add them them to the scrambled scrambled Saut6 eggs. Arrange Arrange in a a deep dish, with the the cipes cèpes in the middle. middle. eggs. Garnîsh with wilh crofftons croûtons fried fried in in butter. butter. Surround Surround with Garnish concentrated veal stock. Scrambled wlth chicken chîcken livers. li 'II ers. oEUFs OEUFS snoulrr6s BROUlUÉS lux AUX Scrambled eggs with DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE - Heap the the scrambled scrambied eggs heated FOlES DE eggs on a heated Fotns disb. Garnish Gamish with wilh sliced slîced chicken livers, livers, saut6ed sauteed in in butter dish. aod bound with with Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle and witb chopped parsley. parsley. with &rambled OEUFS nnoutufs BROUILLÉS cLAMART CLAMART eggs Clamart. oEUFs Scrambld eggs (see PEA). the eggs eggs with wilh Peas d à Ia la frangaise française (see PEA). Garnish Garnish Mix the with more peas. eggs with witll crayfish. crayfisll. OEUFS BROUILLÉS AUX oEUFs snout,rfs Scrambled eggs (see ÉCREVISSES - Prepare Prepare as as Scrambled eggs with shrimps shrimps (see eggs with fcnsvlssrs (se SAUCE). craynsh tails tads and SAUCE). and Nantua sauce (see below) using crayfish Scrambled egp'l'6chelle'. 'l'échelle'. onurs OEUFS BROUILLÉS 'L'ÉCHELLE' sRoulrr,fs'L'fcHELLE' Scrambled cheese. Butter an an earthenware Prepare scrambled eggs with chcese. line it with croû tons of crustless crustless bread bread fried fried in cro0tons dish and and line bu Her. Cover thick slîces truffles heated hea ted in in butter bu ner slices of truffies butter. Cover with thick and seasoned pepper. Put the eggs in the d/sh. dish. and pepper. and seasoned with salt and Smooth the surface and sprinkle with with grated cheese and surface and Brown the top. melted butter. Brown Scrambled l'espagnole I. OEUFS rnoutrrfs ÀA eggs à I'espagnole oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs L'ESPAGNOLE -- FiU Fill halved, seeded seeded tomatoes, cooked in oil, L'EspAGNoH with scrambled and a sweet peppers. a salpicon of of sweet with scrambled eggs and Garnish with onioo fried in in oil. onion rings fried snourrEs ÀA Scrambled OEUFS orurs BROUILLÉS eggs il I'espagnole Scrambled eggs L'ESPAGNOLE - Garnish with diced scrambled eggs eggs with Garnish the scrambled L'EsIAGNoLE oil and mixed with aa salpicon of sweet cookod in oi! tomatoes cooked pimentos. Top with onion in oil. fried in onion rings fried rA. snoutrrfs À,i. LA Scrambled eggs il!n la forestibre. OEUFS oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs fried FORESntRE -- Garnish the scrambled eggs with morels fried the scrarnbled ronBsrGnr in lean bacon. diced lean bacon. Top chopped shallot shallot and and diced in butter with chopped with aa mound Demi-glace sauce Surround wilh with Demi-glace with morels. Surround mound of morels. (see SAUCE). (see wîth chopped chopped parsley. SAUCE). Sprinkle with cEoRcETTE Scrambled oEUFs snoutnfs GEORGETTE Scrambled eggs Georgette. OEUFS potatoes. Scoop out the pulp Bake out three-quarters of the Bake large potatoes. with Crayfish tail and Crayfish lail Garnish with fill with with scrambled scrambled egg. Garnish and fiU Nantua (see CRAYFISH). ragofrt àd la Nantua ...... lrllnlhIIPll1 eggs snounrfs AU lu ham or bacon. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLÉS eggs with harn or bacon. Scrambled (OU BACON) JAMBON, AU LARD MAIGRE BICON)-- Add 10 to the scrambled scrambled AULARD MATGRE (ou fried. Top eggs, and lightly lightly fried. ham or or bacon, bacon, blanched blanched and eggs, dîced dicod harn with slices of lightly fried ham or or rashers of bacon. fried harn rnoutrrfs MASSENET MASSENET -Scrambled Massenet. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLÉS eggs Massenet. Scrambled eggs with diced artichoke hearts Gamish eggs with diced artichoke the scrambled scrambled eggs Garnish the garnish furlher further sautéed rn aa limbale timbale and and garnish Arrange in in butter. butter. Arrange saut6ed in grcs, slivers of truffie, with small trufle, and and asparagus small slices of/ole gras, tips. concentrated veal stock. tips. Surround with conceotrated (various). OEUFS Scrambled mushroom ('IIar:loos). oEUFs eggs witll with musMooms Scrambled eggs mushBROUILLÉS Add sliced sliced or or diced diced mushsnouIrrfs AUX Ar-ix CHAMPIGNONS cHAMpIcNoNS -- Add pepper, rooms, and pepper. and seasoned with salt and rooms, sautéed saut6ed in in butter and 10 to the eggs. Surround mushrooms and and croûtons. cro0tons. Surround Garnish with sliced musbrooms with concentrated veal stock. concentrated vcal re Scrambled snourt.fs AA LA la Nantua. Nanfua. OEUFS oEuFs 8ROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs ài la with diced NANTUA scrambled eggs eggs wilh diced crayfish NANTUA -- Garnish the the scrambled ragofit àd la la tails with Crayfish Crayfish lail tail ragoût trufres. Decorate Decorate with tails and and tfllffies. Nantua truffies heated in in butter. Nantua and and sliced sliced trumes Scrambled normande. OEUFS snouI.rfs ÀA LA rl eggs lii la la normande. oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs NORMANDE scrambled eggs Arrange the scrambled eggs in in aa flan flan case case baked baked NoRMANDE -- Arrange garnished with with blind with shelled shelled mussels mussels bound bound with and gamÎshed blind and

with with cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with with oysters poached poached in in their their own liquid and and debearded, debearded, slivers of truffies truffies tossed tossed in in oil, oil, and

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Surround with SAUCE). shrîmps' tails in Shrimp sauce sauce (ser-, (see SA UCE). Surround wjth shrimps' crofftons croûtons fried in butter, and Normande Normande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). panetit!:re. oeuFs OEUFS nnounrfs p,lNsrIiRE PANETIÈRE Scrambled eggs panetilre. Scramble Scramble the eggs and add mushrooms mushrooms and diced ham harn fried in butter. Hollow out a round round loaf, like a croustade. Butter the the inside inside and and brown brown lightly lightly in in the the oven. oyen. Fill FiU with wilh the scrambled eggs and sprinkle sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter. Brown the top. Scrambled eggs Pamentier. Parmentier. oturs OEUFS nnounrfs BROUILLÉS IARMENTIER PARM'Ef','TIER Scrambted Heap the the scrambled eggs eggs on a heated heated plate and and garnish gamish -- Heap with diced diced potatoes saut6ed sautéed in butter butter and and rollod rolled in in meat with jelly. jelly. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Es A &rambled eggs tà la la perigourdine. onurs OEUl'S nnotrtt,t BROU1LLÉS À r,c, LA Scrambled eggs pfntcounptxr as for Scrambled PÉRIGOURDINE - Prepare as Scrambled eggs Rossmf Rossini (see (see added to of foie gran gras and trufres truffles can be he added below). A salpicon of the scrambled eggs. Scrambled eggs with with potatoes. potatoes. oEuFs OEUFS BRouILLfs BROUlLLÉS Atx AUX Scrambled eggs poMMEs lt TERRE DE TERRE - Like Like Scrambled eggs eggs Parmentier. Parmentier. lt POMMES DE boiled in their skins, peeled, can also be made with potatoes boild saut6ed in butter. sliced, and sauteed butter. PRINcEssE -Scrambled eggs eggs princess. oEUFs OEUFS nRoulrrfs BROUILLÉS PRINCESSE Scrambled asparagus tips Garnish the the scrambled eggs with asparagus tips simmered simmered Garnish timbale or in aa flan case baked butter. Arrange Arrange in a timhale baked blind. in butter. Top with wilh chicken breast cut into julienne strips and and bound (see SAUCE), and with slivers slivers of of with Suprême sauce (see with Suprdme sauce Surround with suprAme truffles tossed in butter. Surround suprême sauce. truffies A LA L.l RE1NE nenm -eggp it ]a la reine. Scrambled reine. oErJFs OEUFS snoulrrEs BROU1LLÉS À Scrambled eggs case, alternating alternating in rows in aa vol-au-vent vol-au-vent case, Arrange the eggs in with Surround with with thick Ch/"cken Chicken purie (se PURÉE). PUREE). Surround (see SAUCE). Supr€me sauce (sec rA, snoullrfs ÀA LA eggs ià la oEUFs BROUILLÉS la romaine. romaine. OEUFS Scrambled eggs ROMAINE -- Scramble the eggs with grated Parmesan cheese. RoMAINE of leaf spinach cooked in butter Arrange butter and mixed Arrange on a bed bod ofleafspinach grated Parmesan Parmesan and with with anchovy anchovy fillets. tîllels. Sprinkle with with grated melted butter. Brown the top. RossINI -oEUFs BROUILLÉS snourrfs ROSS1Nl Scrambled Rossini. OEUFS Scrambled eggs Rossini. ffan case baked timbale or in aa flan Arrange the eggs in aa limhale baked blind. gras and with slices of of foie gras and slivers of truffies heated Garnish witb Madeira-flavoured with concentra concentrated in butter. Surround with ln butter. Surround ted Madeira-fla voured SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce (see SA Demi-glace UCE). sRoulrrfs SAGAN SAGAN-- Scramble oELtFs BROUILLÉS Scramble Scrambled eggs S€an. OEUFS Scrambled in aa limbale in aa flan flan case timbale or in the eggs with cheese. Arrange in the brains dredged dredged in in Garnish with escalopes of braÎns baked blind. Garnish with slivers slivers of truffies in butter, and with of Iruffies flour and and sautéed saut6ed in ftour butter, and with concentrated veal stock. butter. Surround wîth heated in butter. sAINTSaint-Hubert. OEUFS oEUFs snoulrrEs SAINTScrambled eggs Saint-Hubert. Scrambled the scrambled scrambled eggs with game pur6e HUBERT -- Garnish the HUBERT (see SAUCE), based on with Demi-glace sauce (sec bound with bound Demi-glace sauce concentrated game stock. spiny lobster lobster or with aa salpicon of lobster, lobster, spiny Scramblcd eggs with Scrambled DE HOMARD HoMAR"D nnounr6s AU AU SALPICON sALpIcoN DE other shellfish. OEUFS orurs BROUILLEs other (see (or LANGOUSTE Erc.) -- As As Seramhled Scrambled eggs with shrimps (see r,rNcousrr ETC.) (DE with the shellfish shellfish indicated. Serve with below) using aa salpicon of the (se SA the wine. Finish with the with white wine. SAUCE) Cream sauce (see UCE) wilh particular shellfish. shellfish. to the the particular butter appropriate to butter ltx snoutnfs AUX with shrimps. OEUFS oEUFS BROUILLÉS Scranbled eggs with peeled shrimps' tails, heated in in butter, butter, ta to cREvETTEs - Add peeled with aa mound mound of Garnish the top with of the top the scrambled scrambled eggs. eggs. Garnish the (see sauce (see tails heated heatd in in butter butter or or in n Sh/'imp Shrimp sauce shrimps' tails shrimps' with croûtons crottons fried fried in in butter. butter. Pour Pour aa SAUCE). Surround Surround with SAUCE). the eggs. ring of shrimp sauce sauce round the eggs. of shrimp lux TRUFFES-' TRUFFES oEUFS BROUILLÉS BRouuEs AUX Scrambled eggs with tnffl€s. OEUFS When manner. When in the usual manner. scrambled eggs eggs in the usual Prepare the scrambled Prepare the (Either diced and and tossed in butter. butter. (Either add the the trumes, truffies, diced tossed in cooked, add platter on aa warm platter or canned canned truffies can can be used.) Heap on fresh or

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EGGS and garnish cut to look garnish with with slices slices of of truffies truffies and crofitons croûtons cut look like

with tarragon veal stock. stock. Decorate Decorate with tarragon-flavoured tarragon-fiavoured veal

wolves'teeth. wolves' teeth. S6vign€ s6vrcr.6 -Sévigné eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boited or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS SÉVIGNÉ Place each cooked egg on half Cover with half a braised lettuce. Coyer SuprAme Suprême sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Top each egg with a sliver of truffie. truffie. Eggs with shrimps shrimps 1I (shirred). (shirred). oEUFS OEUFS AUX cREvErrss CREVETTES - Bake the dish with with I1 tablespoon the eggs in in a a buttered buttered ovenproof dish shrimp tails. ta ils. Surround Surround with Shrimp sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs Eggs with shrimps shrimps tr II (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or poached). onurs OEUFS nux AUX cREvETTESCREVETTES- Line Line tartlets, tartlets, baked baked blind, blind, with shrimps blended blended on this with Shrimp sauce (see (see SAUCE). Arrange the eggs on mixture and and cover coyer with the sauce. sauce. Eggs with shrimps sbrimps III ID (cold). oEUFs OEUFS Aux AUX cREvErrps CREVETTES - Coat dariole moulds with fish fish aspic jelly je//y (see (see ASPIC). Line Line the sides with shrimps' tails. Pour over liquid jelly jelly to sbt set them. them. Place each mould. Fill with jelly jelly and Place a a soft-boiled egg in each chill chili on ice. Unmould Unmould the the eggs eggs onto onto grilled grilled cro0tons croûtons spread spread with Shrimp butter BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Arrange Arrange bUller (see (see BUTTER, in a crown. Garnish Garnish with diced potatoes and shrimps' tails, ta ils. dressed with mayonnaise strengthened strengthened with gelatine. gelatine. Decorate the top of each each egg egg with with three shrimps' shrimps' tails arranged to look like a plume. Surround Surround the cro0tons croûtons with fish aspic aspic jelly. jelly.

leaves. leaves, blanched and well weil drained. eggs à soubis6e EgS t la also called eggs i la Eggs à la tripe, tripe, also la bechamd béchamel sou bisée (hard-boiled). m TRIPE, souBIs6E -(hard-boiJed). OEUFS À LA À u LA nEcrHMEL BÉCHAMEL SOUBISÉE onurs A rRrrr, A or thick slices. Cut hard-boiled eggs into quarters quarters or thick round round slices. Cut hard-boiled eggs into

dish. Coyer Soubise sauce Arrange in in a a pie pie dish. with Soubise sauce (see Cover with Arrange SAUCE). SAUCE). Sieve hard-boiled Verdier eggs (stuffed). OEUFS hard-boiled orurs VERDIER -- Sieve foie gras. gras. Stuff Stuff the halves of egg yolks and mix with cooked cooked foie egg white with this mixture. mixture. layer of sliced onions cooked Arrange inaa gratin Arrange in gratin dish on a layer ofsliced in butter, blended with with I1 tablespoon Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see in SA UCE), and seasoned curry. SAUCE), seasoned with curry. with bichamel Coyer with béchamel sauce sauce mixed mixed with with a a julienne julienne of Cover oven. truffies. Sprinkle Parmesan. Brown in a hot oyen. Sprinkle with Parmesan. oEUFs vIcroRIA Victoria eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS VICTORIA Arrange the cooked eggs eggs in in puff pastry pastry cases lined lined with a of spiny lobster, or lobster, and truffies, bound with salpicon of salpicon slice of Victoria sauce each egg egg with a a slice sauce (see (see SAUCE). Top each lobster lobster and a slice of of truffie. truffie. la Villeroi ViUeroi (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). osuFs OEUFS ;, À I-A. LA Eggs tà la eggs are used used for this this dish. Coat VILLEROI - Small cooked eggs vILLERoI with Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and leave to get cold. cold. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry. fry. Arrange in in a a crown. Garnish with fried parsley parsley and serve with Tomato Tomato sauce (see (see Garnish SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Zingaru (soft-boiled Eggs tà b la Zingara (soft-boited or or poached). oeurs OEUFS A À ul LA - Arrange the cooked eggs on oval cro0tons croûtons fried ZINGARA in butter and and covered covered with a thin slice slice of lean ham. ham. Coat in with Zingara sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

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OMELETTE -- The etymology etymology of this word is uncertain. uncertain. It OMELETTE may corrvption of may have have been been derived derived from amelette, a a corruption from amelette, alemette, derived from alemelle aleme//e or alumette. alumette. alemette, The The name ovamellita ova me//ita was was used by by the Ancient Ancient Romans for honey and cooked in an earthenware earthenware dish. dish. eggs beaten with honey This derivation seems more logical. Recipes for sweet (dessert) omelettes omelettes will be found at the end of this section. The recipe for basic omelettes omelettes appears appears under EGGS, Basic Basic egg egg dishes. Filled omelettes. OMELETTES rouRn6ns FOURRÉES - Omelettes, Omelettes, before omelettes. oMELErrrs being being folded, folded, can can be be filled filled with with various various mixtures mixtures (forcemeat, meat, pur6e, purée, salpicon), salpicon), as as indicated indicated in individual individual recipes. The garnish garnish should should be be hot, hot, and and folded folded carefully into into the omelette. omelette. Flat omelettes. omelettes. oMELErrEs OMELETTES pLATES PLATES - These are cooked in butter or other other fat, and made made flat fiat like a thick pancake. pancake. Garnished OMELETTES cARNIES GARNIES - The garnish, garnish, Garnished omelettes. omelettes. oMELETTES as indicated be added added while while indicated in individual recipes, can either be the or put put in in the the omelette omelette when when the eggs eggs are are being being beaten, or folding folding it. it. In In addition addition to to the the inside inside filling, a a little of the garnish is usually usually put on top of of the omelette. omelette. Agnes Sorel omelette. ounrnrrn OMELETTE AGNis AGNÈS soREL SOREL - Fill Fi]] the omelette with sliced sautéed sliced mushrooms which have been saut6ed in with Chickm butter and and bound bound with Chicken purie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). in butter Decorate the top with slices of pickled or smoked tongue. tongue. Boil down some sorne veal stock, add butter, and pour pour round the the omelette. eggs during during Omelette Albina -- Add diced truffies to the eggs the omelette in the usual way and and fill with beating. Cook the PURÉE). Pour Velouti Velouté sauce (see (see thick Chicken Chicken puree purée (see PUREE). cream round the omelette. omelette. SA UCE) mixed with cream SAUCE) l'alsacienne -- Cook the omelette in goose fat, Omelette ià I'alsacienne and fill with with braised. braised, well well drained drained sauerkraut. Cover Coyer the and and surround surround with DemiDemiomelette with thin slices of ham and glace sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Anchovy omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALrx AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOIS - Rub Rub the Anchovy fiUets of desalted desalted anchovy through a sieve, and and add to the fillets

Snow Snow eggs eggs (Nrcolas) (Nicolas)

Snow eggs. oEUFS OEUFS A À r.r, LA Nucn NEIGE - Whisk Whisk egg whites and add sugar, as much much of the meringue sugar, as as for a a meringue. Take as mixture as which will give them an as I1 tablespoon will hold, which egg shape, and drop spoonful spoonful by spoonful spoonful into a saucepan of boiling milk sweetened with with sugar and and flavoured flavoured with vanilla. Poach the eggs, turning them so they cook evenly. evenly. When they sieve. they are firm, drain in a fine sieve. Use the the milk left to make Custard Custard cream (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Leave Leave to cool. cool. Arrange pour the the custard custard over over them. them. Arrange the the eggs in aa dish dish and pour Eggp soubise (hard-boiled). (hard-boUed). osuFs OEUFS DURS A À rA LA souBrsn SOUBISE Eggs ià la soubise Arrange hard-boiled eggs on Onion soubise (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Coyer with Cream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Spanislt Spanish eggs -- See See Eggs Eggs d à I'espagnole. l'espagnole. Stanley OEUFS srANLEy STANLEY Stanley eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or poached). poached). oEUFs Arrange Arrange the cooked eggs in tartlet tarti et cases baked blind and and filled with Onion soubise (see with Curry (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Coyer with Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Tarragon Tarragon eggs eggs (shirred). oruns OEUFS A À r'nsrRl,c,oN L'ESTRAGON - Break the eggs into a buttered ovenproof dish containing I1 tablebuttered ovenproof spoon tarragon-flavoured tarragon-fiavoured veal stock. Cook Cook until until the whites whites are set. Surround Surround with more more stock. Decorate Decorate with with blanched blanched tarragon. tarragon. Tarragon Tarragon eggg eggs, also called eggs eggs ià la Chartres (soft-boiled (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS A À r'nsrRacoN, L'ESTRAGON, A À LA cHARTRES CHARTRES -- Arrange Arrange poachèd). oEUFS the the cooked eggs on cro0tons croûtons fried in in butter. butter. Cover Coyer thern them with 351

EGGS beaten eggs. eggs. Cook Cook the the omelette omelette as as usual. usual. Cut Cut desalted beaten place on top. anchovy fillets into thin strips and place Omelette Andr6-Theuriet André-Theoriet -- Fill Fil! the omelette with morels à Ia la crhtne. crème. Serve Serve garnished garnished with with asparagus asparagus tips tips lightly lightly d cooked in butter, butter, and with slivers slivers of of trufle trume tossed tossed in the the same same cooked Surround with SuprAme Suprême sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). butter. Surround omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ARcHIDUc ARCHIDUC - Add chopped Archduke omelette. fried in in butter and and seasoned seasoned with will paprika, paprika, onion, lightly frid beaten eggs before cooking. cooking. Garnish Garnish with to the seasoned beaten slivers of truffie surround with trume heated heated in in butter, butter, and and surround with a slivers paprika sauce. sauce. Omelette Argenteuil Argenteuilomelette with white - Fill the cooked omelette put I1 or green asparagus tips lightly cooked in butter, and put Surround with Allemande tablespoon asparagus tips on top. Surround (se SAUCE). SAUCE). or Cream sauce (see sauce ot oMELETTE ALt( Articboke omelette. AUX ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS - Add Add to Artichoke omelette. OMELETTE eggs, when wh en beating, artichoke hearts hearts which have have been the eggs, saut6ed in sliced and half-cooked and sautéed in butter. butter. Cook. Cook. half-cooked then then sliced Serve with artichoke hearts. of the. Garnish with a a few few of the. artichoke hearts. Serve Garnish with stock wit_h concentrated veal veal stock with a little little butter butter added. concentrated oMELETTES ALrx Omelette asparagns tips. Omelette with with asparagus tips. OMELETIES AUX poINTEs POINTES diced asparagus D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES - Mix Mix diced asparagus tips, tips, which which have have been eggs. Garnish the cooked tossed in butter, into the beate,n beaten eggs. sprinkle with omelette with melted melted butter. omelette with asparagus tips and sprinkle oMELETTE Arrx Aubergine omelette. Allbergine omelette. OMELETTE AUX AUBERcmrs AUBERGrNES - Place and surslices of fried fried aubergine on on the the cooked cooked omelette and (se SA round with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce or TomalO UCE). oMELETTE AU BAcoN Bacoo BACON -- Add 4 tablespoons tablespoons Bacon omelette. omelette. OMELETTE (* cup) diced bacon, lightly fried friod in butter, (t butter, to the beaten egg. with thin thin rashers Garnish the the cooked omelette with Garnish rashers of cooked bacon. bacon. la Bércy Add chopped chopped fines to the B6rcy - Add Omelette à la fines herbes to grilled or cooked omelette with beaten egg. the cooked with grilled egg. Garnish Garnish the beaten sausages, and and surround surround with Tomato saut6ed chipolata chipolata sausages, sautéed Will Tomalo SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). la bigourdane bigourdane - Fil! Fill the the omelette with diced Omelette à la (see gras. Serve sauce (see Serve with Madeira sauce truffles foie gras. truffies and and diced foic sAUCE). SAUCE). A LA r,c, MOELLE MosrLE - FIat. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE À FiaI. Bone-marrow omelette. bone-marrow fat, cooked omelette omelette with slices of bone-marrow Garnish the cooked poached in salt water water and drained. Spoon aa little liquid meat jelly over each Marrow sauce each slice of marrow and and serve serve with Marrow jelly (see SAUCE). SAUCE). of bone-marrow bone-marrowfat Fill the omelette omelettewithasalpicon Fluffy. Fillthe with a salpicon of fat sauce. Garnish with with slices of marrow with marrow bound marrow sauce. bound with which have been poached in salted water and drained. Serve with marrow sauce. dicod boneFill the omelette omelette with diced boneOmelette ài la boucbère bouchbre-- FiJI Omelette jelly. Put poachod and Put and bound with liquid meat jelly. fat, poached marrow marrow fat, poached marrow marrow slices slices on on top, top, and and spoon spoon liquid row of poached aa row jelly over the the omelette. meat jelly small Brussels very small Omelette la bruxelloise bmxelloise - Cook Cook very Omelette à la done. in salted water until three-quarters three-quarters do sprouts ne. Drain, dry, sprouts in sprouts into into beaten beate,n eggs eggs before and fry in in butter. Stir the the sprouts and fry butter. Stir Surround with with concentrated concentrated veal making the omelette. omelette. Surround ma king the stock. Omelette àd la la Crécy. Cricy. Se Omelette Carroi Carrot omelette -- See Add sliced sliced lux CÈPES ctprs - Add oMELETTE AUX Omelette with with cèpes. cbpes. OMELETTE (which have been fried chopped frid inin butter or oil) and and chopped or oil) cèpes clpes (which parsley to omelette with with Top the the cooked cooked omelette parsley to the the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Top cèpes. cipes. sauteed chicken chicken Fill the the omelette omelette with sautéed chasseur -- FiU Omelelte Omelette cbasseur Garnish the the cooked cooked sliced mushrooms. Garnish livers mixed mixed with with sliced livers Serve will with Chasseur Chasseur same ingredients. ingredients. Serve omelette with the the same omelette with (se SAUCE) chopped parsley. and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped SAUCE) and sauce (see Fill the omelette with with braised the omelette Omelette à la h châtelaine cMtelaine -- Fil! veal stock. stock. concentrated veal chestnuts bound with concentrated and mashed chestnuts and (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with Cream Cremn sauce (see Serve Serve with

Omelette with wlth chervil. chenil.

some sorne choppod chopped chervil, chervil, to the beaten beaten eggs. Chicken OMELETTE AUx AUX FoIEs FOIES DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE Chic ken liver live!' omelette. omelette. oMELETTE Fill the omelette with sliced chicken livers livers which which have have been

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sautEed briskly sautéed briskly in in butter butter and and bound bound with with concentrated Demi-glace sauce sauce (se(sc SAUCE). Top the cooked omelette serve with with will chicken chic ken livers, livers, as as above, above, and and serve with MadeiraMadeira(se SAUCE). SAUCE). flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Omelette Choisy - Fill Fil! the the omelette with with Chffinade Chiffonade of of with Cream sauce lettuce lelluce with wilh crearn cream (see LETTUCE). LETTUCE). Serve wilh (see SAUCE). with Peas Omelette Clamart - FiU Omelette Fill the the omelette omelette with Peas d à Ia la (see PEA) française (see PEA) keeping keeping the the mixture mixture rather rather thick. frangaise When serving, serving, put I1 tablespoon of the mixture mixture on top of of the omelette. cooked omelette. Curgette Courgette omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALIX AUX couRcnrrrs COURGETfES - Flat. FiaI. saute in butter. Cut Cut the the courgettes in in thin slices and and sauté butter. Beat the eggs with chopped parsley, parsley, season with salt and pepper, pepper, and pour over the marrows marrows in the pan. courgettes sautéed Flufy. saut6edin Fluffy. Fill the the omelette omelette with with the the diced courgettes in butter butter or oil and mixed with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. with22 tablespoons Omelette àt la Cr€cyCréey - Fill the omelette with (3 tablespoons) thick (s* PUREE). (3 thick Carrot CarrOI purie purée (sec PURÉE). Decorate the top with a a row of sliced carrots carrol~ cooked in butter. butter. Serve (see SAUCE). wth Cream Cremn sauce (see SAUCE). with cnoOroNs -- F/ar. Omelette with crofttons. croBtons. oMELETTE OMELETTE lux AUX CROÛTONS FiaI. Fry chopped parsley Fry diced bread in butter. Beat the eggs with with chopped parsley omelette as a pancake. cro0tons. Make over the croÎltons. and pour pour over Make the omelette pancake. Fluffy. Fry diced bread in butter butter and add to the eggs while while parsley. Make chopped parsley. them, together beating beating them, together with with chopped Make the omelette in the usual way. seasoned sliced mushrooms, fried Omelette Diane -- Add Add seasoned fried Fill the omelette omelette with a salpicon egg. Fill in butter, to to the beaten egg. winged game, and truffles, truffies, bound of partridge partridge or any other winged (se SAUCE) based Velouti sauce sauce (see with concentrated Velouté with concentrated based on (q.v.). Garnish the cooked game fumet (q.v.). cooked omelette with aa row gamefumet Demi-glace in butter. butter. Serve Serve with slices tossed of trufre of trume slices tossed in with Demi-glace (se SAUCE) based based on game stock. sauce (see Make aa flat oMELETTE DIPLOMATE DIrLoMATE - Make Diplomat omelette. omelette. OMELETTE Diplomat of lobster lobster and and layer of eggs. Co Cover omelette with with 33 eggs. ver with with aa layer (soe SAUCE) Bichamel sauce sauce (see with Béchamel trufre salpicon salpicon bound bound with truffle flavoured with lobster butter and brandy. f1avoured it omelette, keeping it Top this omelette omelette with another 3-egg omelette, Top (se SAUCE) f1avoured flavoured saace (sec Mornay sauce Cover with with Mornay creamy. Cover creamy. grated Parmesan and Parmesan and Sprinkle with with grated lobster butter. with lobster butter. Sprinkle with hot oven. in aa hot butter, and and brown in melted butter, meltcd in salted cauliflower flowerets Ihr Barry Barry -- Boil cauliflower Omelette Du flowerets in in the the eggs, fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Pour Pour in Drain, and and fry water. Drain, water. and with salt salt and chervil and and seasoned seasoned with beaten will with chopped chopped chervil beaten pepper. Make pancake omelette omelette and and serve serve with with Cream Make aa pancake pepper. (sw SA SAUCE). sauce (see UCE). with duxelles Fill the la duxelles duxelles - Fill the omelette with Omelette à la Omelette (q.v.) mixture to added. Serve Serve has been been added. diced harn ham has which diced (q.v.) to which (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Demi-ghce sauce (see tomato-flavoured Demi-glace with tomato-flavoured eg$ 33 tablefermilre -- Add Add to the beaten eggs to the h fermière Omelette àI la (q.v.) of (scant cup) paysanne (q.v.) of vegetables cup) of of aa paysanne spoons (seant spoons lightly fried onions and celery, celery Iightly sliced carrots, on composod of sliced composed ions and pepper, and and chopped seasoned with with salt. salt, pepper, in butter butter and and seasoned in parsley. (3 tablespoons) lean harn ham lightly lightly tablespoons) diced diced lean tablespoons (3 Fry 22 tablespoons flat pour the make aa flat mixture over, over, and and make the egg egg mixture in butter, butter, pour in omelette. omelette. shredded Fill the the omelette with shredded Omelette à la la flamande -- Fill Omelette (U.S. Belgian in butter and and bound Belgian endive) endive) cooked cooked in chicory (U.S. chicory (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Crean sauce (see with cream. cream. Serve Serve with with Cream keeping itit Make aa creamy omelette, kecping Feydeur -- Make creamy omelette, Omelette Feydeau (se PURÉE). purie (see PUREE). Mushroom purée rather liquid. liquid. Fill Fill with with Mushroom rather

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oMELETTE OMELETTE AU AU cERFEUIL CERFEUIL BULBEIx BULllEUX -

Add chopped turnip-rooted chervil, cooked in butter, and

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EGGS EGGS as AU HOMARD HoMARD -- Prepare Prepare as oMELETTE AU Lobster omelette. omelette. OMELETTE Lobster (see below), salpicon of of lobster lobster using aa salpicon omelette (see below), using Shrimp omelette Shrimp (se SAUCE). SAUCE). bound with with Lobster sauce sauce (see bound diced Add to beaten eggs eggs diced to the the beaten la lorraine lorraine -- Add Omelette àI la Omelette and shredded Gruyère Gruydre cheese, cheese, and saut6ed in lean bacon sautéed in butter, butter, shredded lean Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped spring spring onion. onion. Make chopped diced trufHes truffies with diced Beat the the eggs eggs with Forest -- Beat Omelette Louis Forest Omelette Louis one of of flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one in butter, and make make 22 fiat cooked cooked in butter, and gras sautéed cover saut6ed in in butter, butter, and and cover with slices slices of them them with of freshfoie gras tablespoon conconSpoon over over 1I tablespoon with with the second omelette. omelette. Spoon the second veal stock, stock, and and sprinkle sprinkle Madeira-flavoured veal centrated, centrated, Madeira-fiavoured (see BUTTER, butters). with BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). with Noisette lfoisette butter butter (see finely Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs eggs finely Omelette la lyonnaise lyonnaise -- Add Onelette ài la parsley. choppod parsley. frid inin butter, and chopped chopped onions, lightly butter, and lightly fried chopped onions, few drops drops Make on the the omelette omelette aa few Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. Sprinkle Sprinkle on pour over pan, and Noisette ofvinegar same pan, and pour over itit Noisette heated in in the of vinegar heated the same (see BUTTER, butter butters). butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Omelette omelette with with aa salpicon salpicon of of Fill the the omelette Omelette Maintenon Maintenon -- Fill Veloutd sauce chicken, bound with with Velouté sauce chicken, truffies, and mushrooros, mushrooms, bound truffies, and (see SAUCE) omelette creamy creamy (see Keep the the omelette with cream. cream. Keep diluted with SAUCE) diluted (see SAUCE) SAUCE) when Bdchamel sauce sauce (see with Béchamel it. Cover Cover with when cooking cooking il. grated Pannesan melted with and melted Parmesan and with grated onion, sprinkle sprinkle with with onion, butter, oven. the oven. in the and brown brown in butter, and pieces of into Omelette of beef beef into left-over pieces Cut left-over la ménagère m6naglre -- Cut Omelette ài la quantity of dice of diced diced Add an an equal equal quantity butter. Add in butter. dice and and fry fry lightly lightly in on ion, also eggs with with chopped chopped Beat the the eggs in butter. butter. Beat onion, also cooked cooked in pepper, mix parsley, mix with with the the other other parsley, season salt and and pepper, season with with salt ingredients, flat omelette. omelette. make aa fiat ingredients, and and make Omelette in oil. oil. Fry Fry diced diced aubergines in Mishal. Fry Fry diced diced aubergines Omelette Mistral. pinch tomatoes parsleyand and aa pinch chopped parsley add chopped lightly in in butter, butter, add tomatoes lightly of to Add this this mixture mixture to garlic, and mix with with the the aubergines. aubergines. Add and mix of garlic, the flat omelette. omelette. make aa fiat beaten eggs eggs and and make the beaten Omelette of salpicon of the omelette omelette with with aa salpicon Fill the Monselet -- Fill Omelette Monselet artichoke with slivers Garnish with slivers artichoke hearts hearts and la crème. crime. Garnish and truffies truffies àd la of with Madeira-fiavoured Madeira-flavoured of truffies in butter. Serve with trufres heated heated in butter. Serve Demi-glace (see SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette gratod horsehorsewith grated Beat the the eggs eggs with Onelette Montbry Montbry -- Beat radish, parsley, and seasoning. and seasoning. radish, chopped spring onions, onions, parsley, chopped spring Make salpicon of of celeriac celeriac one with Make 22 fiat with aasalpicon flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one bound (se SAUCE) and seasoned seasoned with with SAUCE) and Creun sauce sauce (see bound with with Cream paprika. light paprika. Cover Spoon light the second second omelette. omelette. Spoon Cover with with the Mornay grated (see SAUCE) with grated over them, them, sprinkle sprinkle with Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over Parmesan grill or under the the grill or melted butter, and brown brown under Parmesan and and melted butter, and in hot oven. in aa hot oven. Omelette Add totothe Aux MORILLES MoRILLTS - - Add the oMELETTE AUX with morels. morels. OMELETTE Omelette witb eggs (while beating and sauteod inin butter, butter, and morels sautéed them) morels eggs (while beating them) chopped parsley. Make Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped parsley. Omelette Aux MORILLES MoRJLLES oMELETTE AUX crbme. OMELETTE Onelette with with morels moreb ài lala crème. ÀA LA morels àd laIa crème crime and and, with morels ta cRÈME cninrm -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with serve (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). serve with Cream sauce with Cream Omelette yolks with tablespoons Mix 66egg egg yolks with 22tablespoons Omelette mousseline mousseline -- Mix (3 pepper. Add Add (3 tablespoons) with salt salt and and pepper. and season season with tablespoons) cream cream and the Make aa mixture.Make fold into into the themixture. the stiffiy whisked whites whitesand and fold stifry whisked fiat flat omelette. omelette. Mushroom Add cHAMPIGNoNS - - Add Aux CHAMPIGNONS omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX Mu$room omelette. 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) saut6ed sliced mushrooms, mushrooms, sautéed tablespoons) sliced tablespoons (3 in and Make aa fiat flat omelette omeletteand eggs. Make in butter, the beaten beaten eggs. butter, toto the decorate slices. row of mushroom slices. of mushroom decorate with with aa row Omelette with Flat. Beat Beat the theeggs eggs with nanc6ienne -- Flat. Omelette ài lala nancéienne chopped ion lightly parsley. andchopped chopped parsley. lightly fried fried inin butter, butter, and chopped on onion Make pudding, lightly lightly slices of of black black pudding, Make 22 fiat Put slices flat omelettes. omelettes. Put fried second.Pour Pour withthe thesecond. omelette and and cover cover with frid inin butter, butter. on on1I omelette over sprinkle with with stock, and and sprinkle vealstock, over them them concentrated concentrated veal Noisette (see BUTTER, buners). BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Noisette butter butter (see Fluffy. and onion and fried chopped choppedonion with lightly lightly fried Flufy. Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with chopped pudding. pieces of parsley. Fill fried black black pudding. with pieces offried chopped parsley. Fill with Serve little butter butter has has whichaa!ittle vealstock stocktotowhich Serve with with boiled-down boiled-down veal been beenadded. added.

Omelette Feydeau Feydeau

Place aa row row of the cooked cooked omelette. omelette. eggs on on the Place of soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs (see SAUCE) Cover Mornay sauce with aa mixed with SAUCE) mixed sauce (see Cover with witth Mornay juliennc julienne of grated Parmesan with grated Parmesan and and of truffies. trufres. Sprinkle Sprinkle with brown the top. Omelettes aux Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs, eggs, herbes -- Add fines herbes aux fines chopped or parsley, chervil, spring onion onion or and spring chervil, tarragon, tarragon, and chopped parsley, chives. There make herbs to to make of these these herbs enough of There should should be be enough chives. the omelette green. Omelette leaf with leaf Fill the the omelette omelette with la florentine florentine -- Fill Omelette ài la spinach cooked sauce light Mornay Mornay sauce with aa light cooked in in butter. butter. Serve Serve with (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle grated Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown with grated Sprinkle with quickly. quickly. Omelette à (3 tableforestilre -- Add Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablei lala forestière spoons) diced lean bacon, fried in butter, to the the beaten eggs. eggs. bacon, fried butter, to Fill the have been sauteed in in Fill the omelette with with morels morels which which have been sautéed butter, veal stock, stock, and and sprinkled sprinkled butter, bound bound with with concentrated veal with parsley. Serve has with veal veal stock stock to to which which has chopped parsley. Serve with with chopped been little butter. been added added aa little Omelette ài la gasconne -- Add eggs diced diced Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs la gasconne unsmoked ham, lightly fried frid inin butter, ham, thinly thinly sliced sliced onions onions lightly butter, chopped garlic and parsley. Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped garlic and parsley. Omelette ài la grecEre -- Add Add to eggs chopped chopped to the la grecque the beaten beaten eggs onion pimentos. lightly fried fried in in butter, butter, and and diced diced sweet sweet pimentos. onion lightly Make layer of mutton hash hash Make 22 fiat flat omelettes, spreading aa layer of mutton omelettes, spreading between garlic-flavoard Tomato Tomato sauce sauce with garlic-fiavoured between them. them. Serve Serve with (see parsley and (see SAUCE) and SAUCE) and sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley and sprinkle Noisette (see BUTTER, butters). Noisette butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compotmd butters). Ham As Bacon Bacon omelette, omelette, orr,rprsrrE AU Ham omelette. AU JAMBON JAMBoN -- As omelette. OMELETTE using using diced diced lean lean ham. ham. Omelette UX JETS DE HOUBLON HouBLoN AUx JETs DE with bop hop shoots. shoots. OMELETTE oMELETTE A Omelette with - FiU hop shoots shoots àd la la crème. crime. Serve Serve with witb Fill the the omelette omelette with with hop -Cream (see SAUCE). Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Hungarian rrc. HONGROISE HoxcnoIm -- Fry oMELETTE ÀA LA Fry Hungarian omelette. omelette. OMELETTE diced ham lightly butter. Add Add an an equal equal in butter. diced unsmoked unsmoked lean lean ham lightly in quantity quantity of with fried in in butter. butter. Season Season with of diced diced onions, onions, also also fried paprika. paprika. Add eggs and and make make aa Add this to the the beaten beaten eggs mixture to this mixture fiat (see SAUCE). pancake. Serve Hungariut sauce SAUCE). flat pancake. sauce (see Serve with with Hungarian Japanese A LA u JAPONAISE rlpoNArsn -- Fill Fill the the oMELETTE À Japanese omelette. omelette. OMELETTE omelette in butter butter and and cooked in omelette with artichokes cooked with Chinese Chinese artichokes sprinkled (seo parsley. Serve with Cream Crearn sauce sauce (see sprinkled with chopped parsley. Serve with with chopped SAUCE). sAUCE). Omelette jardini&re -- Cook turnips, French French Cook carrots, carrots, turnips, Omelette à la }r jardinière beans, potatoes, etc. peas, potatoes, stock. Drain, Drain, and and fry fry etc. in in water water or or stock. beans, peas, lightly make aa fiat flat Add to beaten eggs eggs and and make lightly in in butter. to the the beaten butter. Add omelette. and caulicauliwith cooked cooked asparagus asparagus tips tips and omelette. Garnish Garnish with fiower (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). serve with with Cream Creon sauce flower fiowerets, flowerets, and and serve Omelette jurassienne -- Add diced lean lean bacon, bacon, Add scalded, scalded, diced Omelette àI la la jurassienne ions to lightly to the the sprlng on onions lightly fried frid inin butter, and chopped chopped spring butter, and beaten rel which has been with sor sorrel which has been beaten eggs. Fill the the omelette omelette with eggs. Fill cooked in butter. cooked in butter. Kidney ALrx ROGNONS RocNoNs - Sauté Saut6 diced diced oMELETTE AUX Kidney omelette. omelette. OMELETTE calfs with MadeiraMadeirain butter and bind bind with calfs or or lamb's lamb's kidneys kidneys in butter and fiavoured, (se SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). flavoured, concentrated concentrated Demi-glace

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EGGS EGGS poundedparsley parsleyand togetherwith with pounded andchervil. chervil.Make Makea afiat together flat omelette. omelette. poroNArsn- Fill Polishomelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTEÀALA r,c,POLONAISE Polisb the - Fillthe omelette with withmutton muttonhash hashbound boundwith withDemi-glace Demi-glacesauce omelette sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE).Garnish Garnish with withTomato Tomatofondue (seeFONDUE). (see fondue (see FONDUE). Sprinkle with parsleyand withchopped choppodparsley andserve Sprinkle withTomato Tomatosauce servewith sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). (see ponrucxg - - Fill Porfirgueseomelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTEÀALA Portuguese r,l PORTUGAISE Fill theomelette omelettewith (seeFONDUE) with Tomato Tomatofondue the FONDUE)and andserve serve fondue(see (saSAUCE). withTomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). with Potato omelette omelette - - See Potato SeOmelette Omelette Parmentier. Parmentier. pRrNcEssE- Add Princess omelette. omelette. OMELETTE Princess oMELETTE PRINCESSE green - Add green asparagus tips tips cooked cooked inin butter asparagus buttertotothe the beaten beaten eggs. eggs.Garnish Garnish with truffie with trufre slices withSuprême slices heated heatedinin butter butterand andserve serve with SuprAme (seeSAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce provengale-- Cook Omelette ài lala provençale peeled, seeded, Omelette Cook peeled, seeded,and anddiced diced tomatoes in in butter tomatoes butter or oroil. oil.Season pepper and Season with with salt saltand and pepper andaa pinch of garlic. Beat pinch of garlic. poundedparsley theeggs parsley and Beat the eggs with with pounded and makeaa fiuffy make fluffy omelette, omelette, filling fillingititwith with the thetomato tomato mixture. mixture. Omelette ài laln romaine. Omelette romaine. Fry Fry chopped chopped onion onion lightly lightlyininbutter butter parsley. Make and and add add chopped chopped parsley. Make 22 fiat flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one with one with leaf leaf spinach (see spinach cooked cooked inin Noisette Noisettebutter butter (see BUTTER) and BUTTER) and mixed mixed with with diced diced anchovy anchovyfillets. fillets. Cover with Coverwith the second second omelette. the omelette, (see SAUCE) Spoon Spoon Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over over the the omelettes, omelettes, grated Parmesan sprinkle sprinkle with Parmesan and with grated and melted meltod butter, butter, and and brown brown grill or under under the the grill or in in aa hot hot oven. oven. Omelette Omelette Rossini Rossini -- Add Add aa salpicon grasand salpicon of of foie and foie gras truffies trufles to to the the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Garnish Garnish the flat omelette the fiat omelette with with slices gras and slices offoie oflore gras and slivers of truffies. with Madeiraslivers of trufres. Serve Servewith Madeirafiavoured (see SAUCE). flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette Omelette ài la ls rouennaise rouennaise -- Fil! Fill the the omelette omelette with with duck duck liver pur6e. Serve liver purée. Serve with with red red wine, wine, boiled boiled down down and and blended blended jelly and with with meat meat jelly and butter. butter. Omelette Omelette ài la la royale royale -- Make Make aa small small omelette omelette using using eggs eggs mixed mixed with with truffie pur6e and truffie purée fill itit with and fill with aa ragoût ragofrt of of cock'scock'scombs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and truffies, trufres, bound bound with with Velouté Velouti sauce sauce mixed mixed with with cream. cream. Make Make aa second, second, larger larger omelette omelette with with eggs eggs mixed mixed with with fresh fresh cream cream and and seasoned seasoned with pepper. Fold with salt salt and and pepper. Fold itit over over the the smaller smaller omelette omelette and and garnish with garnish with small small slices gras and slices of of foie and slivers slivers of of truffies. trufres. /ore gras Serve Serve with port-flavoured Suprême with port-fiavoured (see SAUCE). SuprAme sauce SAUCE). sauce (see Omelette la Saint-Flour Omelette àt la Saint-Ftour -- Add Add to to the the eggs, eggs, while while beating beating them, them, chopped chopped onions onions and and scalded, scalded, diced diced bacon, bacon, both both lightly fried frid inin lard. lard. Make Make 22 fiat flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one with one with aa layer ofbraised, of braised, mashed cabbage cabbage and and cover cover with with the the second second omelette. omelette. Serve Serve with (ser-, SAUCE). with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette Onelette ài la ta Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with aa purée puree of game-meat bound of game-meat bound with with thick Demi-glace sauce thick Demi-glace sauce (see (see SAUCE) based based on on concentrated game game stock. stock. Garnish Garnish with sliced mushrooms lightly fried frid inin butter butter and and serve serve with with demi-glace demi-glace sauce. sauce. Omelette Omelette witb with salsify salsify and ad Brussels Bnsseb sprouts, sprouts, caUed called ài la la maraicbère. maralchlre. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX ALtx SALSIFIS sALsIFIs ET ET AUX Atx CHOUX cHottx DE DE BR UXELLES, DITE BRTxELLES, nrrs ÀA LA r-l MARAîCHÈRE umdcsitnr -- Slice Slice salsify, salsify, cook cook in in court-bouillon, court-bouillon, cut cvt into into dice, dice, toss toss in in butter, butter, and and bind bind with with thick thick Velouté Velouti sauce. sauce. Fill Fill aa fiuffy fluS omelette omelette with with this this and and garnish with with small small potatoes and and Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts sautéed saut6od in in butter. Serve with concentrated butter. Serve with concentrated Demi-glace (see Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to to which which butter butter has has been been added. added. Omelette de (accordiry to Omelette de Savarin Savarin (according to Frédéric) Fred6ric) -- Philéas Phil6as Gilbert relates relates that that Fr6d6ric, Frédéric, chef chef de Gilbert de cuisine cuisitu to to an an archbishop, archbishop, many discussions discussions with with the the directew directeur de had many de la la table, table, about about Frédéric's Lenten Lenten mortification mortification dish Fr6d6ric's dish which which was was an' an omelette omelette filled with with soft soft roes roes and and tunny tunny fish. fish. filled The roes roes were were cut cut into into thin thin slices slices and and cooked cooked àit la meunière. The lameuniire. The tunny tunny was was dried dried in in a a cloth, cio th, cut cut into into a a coarse The coarse salpicon, salpicon, seasoned, and and simmered simmered in butter. The The eggs eggs were beaten seasoned, in butter. were beaten

Cheese mousseline mousseline omelette omelette Cheese

Omelette ài la Ia Nantua Nantua -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with crayfish crayfish tails tails Omelette bound with (se SAUCE). with Nantua Nantua sauce sattce (see SAUCE). Garnish Garnish with with bound crayfish tails tails and and slivers slivers of of truffies. truffies. Serve Serve with with the the sauce. sauce. crayfish Omelette àI la ln niçoise nigoise -* Mix Mix the the eggs eggs with with Tomato Tomato fondue Omelette fondue (see FONDUE), FONDUE), chopped parsley, and chopped parsley, pinch of garlic. and aa pinch of garlic. (see Make aa fiat flat omelette omelette and garnish with and garnish with anchovies anchovies arranged arranged in in Make pattern. Sprinkle criss-cross pattern. (see Sprinkle with with Noisette Norsette butter butter (see aa criss-cross BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). but ters). BUTTER, la normande -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with aa ragoût ragofit Omelette ài la of shrimps' shrimps' ta tails and mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with vith Normande Normande of ils and (set', SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Garnish Garnish with with debearded debearded oysters oysters sauce poached in in their their own own liquid, liquid, and and slivers slivers of of truffies. trufles. Serve Serve poached with normande sauce. with Okra omelette omelette ài la h créole. cr€ole. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX Arrx GOMBOS c,oMB6 ÀA LA LA Okra cn6or-u -- Add Add to the eggs, while beating them, them, diced diced on CRÉOLE ions, onions, peeled and and diced diced sweet sweet pimentos -- both both of of which peeled which have have been been in butter -- and parsley. Fill and chopped chopped parsley. Fill the cooked in the omelette omelette with okra cooked cookod in in butter and and mixed mixed with with Tomato Tomato fondue with fondue (see FONDUE) fiavoured flavoured with aa pinch of garlic. Serve (see FONDUE) Serve with with (see Tomato sauce SAUCE). Tomato (see Omelette à i la parisiennechoppod onion and chopped Omelette parisienne - Add chopped chopped mushrooms, saut6ed in in butter, butter, to to the mushrooms, both both sautéed the beaten beaten eggs. Cover the cooked omelette with chipolata chipolata sausages cooked in concentratod veal in butter or grilled. Serve with concentrated veal stock stock to which a little little butter has been added. Omelette Omelette Parmenticr Parmentier -- Fry Fry diced potatoes, cooked diced potatoes, cooked or raw, in butter and add chopped parsley. Mix them with the beaten beaten eggs eggs for aa flat fiat omelette or use use them them to to fi.!l fill aa fiuffy fluffy omelette. omelette. Omelette Omelette Ià la paysanne paysanne -- Add to the beaten bea ten eggs chopped sorrel sorrel and and sliced sliced potatoes, potatoes, both both lightly lightly fried fried in in butter,

Omelette dà la la nanc6ienne nancéienne Omelette

354 3s4

EGGS EGGS Swiss Swiss omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A À m LA surss SUISSE - Add Add Emmenthal Emmenthal to to the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Make Make aa flat flat omelette. omelette. Omelette Omelette Ià la Talleyrad Talleyrand - Add Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs, eggs, diced diced of and seasoned seasoned with onions lightly lightly fried in in butter butter and with aa pinch pinch of

rd .Id mixed mixed with with thick thick cream. cream. The The tunny tunny and and roes roes were were mixed

rn fi a a shrimp shrimp sauce sauce and and seasoned. seasoned. The omelette omelette was was filled

cheese cheese and cream

with this this sauce sauce and and garnished garnished with with slices of of truffie truffle or or circled with with with fried fried frogs' frogs' legs. legs. Omelette ià la savoyarde savoyarde - Fry Fry sliced sliced potatoes potatoes and and add the the Omelette beaten eggs, eggs, mixed mixed with with shredded shredded Gruydre Gruyère to the pan. pan. Make beate,n flat omelette. omelette. a flat Sea-food omeleffe. omelette. oMELETTts OMELETfE Atx AUX FRUITS FRUITS DE MER - Beat Sea-food eggs with with chopped parsley parsley and chervil, chervil, season with salt the eggs make 2 flat omelettes. omelettes. and pepper, and make with a ragofrt ragoût of of mussels, mussels, shrimps, cockles, cockles, and Cover one with other shellfish, shellfish, bound with Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). Top other with the the second second omelette, omelette, and and pour pour Creon Cream sauce sauce (see (see with SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with Shrimp Shrimp butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, SAUCE) grill or in a Glaze under the grill Compound butters) over them. G1aze Compound oven. hot oven. cRrvETTEs -- Fill Shrimp omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE AI-rx AUX CREVETTES Fill the Shrimp with Shrimp sltrimps' tails omelette with with peeled peeled shrimps' tails bound bound with omelette sauce (se (see SAUCE). Serve Serve with witb the same sauce. sauce omelette. oMELETTts OMELETTE A À t'osstr,lE L'OSEILLE -- Add to the beaten Sorrel omelette. (* cup) sorrel shredded chifonade shredded into a chiffonade eggs, 4 tablespoons (t and lightly lightly fried in butter. Make a flat omelette. omelette. Add to to the t'esplcNou -- Add omelette. OMELETTE À L'ESPAGNOLE oMELETTE A Spanish omelette. or shredded shredded into beaten eggs, pimentos, diced diced or sweet pimentos, beaten eggs, sweet parsley, and julimne and a julienne strips and cooked in butter, chopped parsley, butter, chopped pinch of garlic. garlic. Make fiat omelette. Make a flat omelette. Spinach fpn*lnos -- Sweat Sweat leaf lux ÉPINARDS oMELETTE AUX Spinach omelette. omelette. OMELETTE spinach eggs. Make aa flat and mix with the beaten eggs. spinach in butter and omelette. (crawfish omelette). OMELETTE rA, Spiny lobster omelette (crawfisb otvrstsrrE ÀA LA LANGOUSTE of using aa salpicon of Make as as Shrimp omelette, omelette, using rixcousre -- Make spiny lobster bound flavoured with with Spiny Spdny sauce flavoured with aa sauce spiny lobster bound with lobster butter (see BUTTER, butters). BUTTER, Compound butters). Add Spring onion A LA r-l CIBOULETTE ctsouLETTE -- Add oMELETTE À omelette. OMELETfE onim omelette. make aa flat flat chopped spring and make eggs and to the the beaten beaten eggs spring onions onions to omelette. omelette. Fill Sweetcom A LA Lq' CRÈME cRiil,fi -- Fill MAis À oMELETTE AU AU MAïs omelette. OMELETTE Sweetcorn omelette. (see CORN) serve the omelette and serve in cream CORN) and corn in crearn (see with Fresh corn omelette with (see SAUCE). with SAUCE). Cream sauce sauce (see wfih Cream Sweet Doux -Atlx PIMENTS PIMENTS DOUX pimento omelette. oMELETTE AUX omelette. OMELETfE Sweet pimento Add sweet pimentos shredded sweet coarsely shredded Add to to the the beaten beaten egg egg coarsely (green, in (green, yellow yellow or Fry the the flat flat omelette omelette in in oil. oil. Fry red) cooked cooked in or red) oil. oil. Sweet as PATATES- Prepare Prepare as potato omelette. Aux PATATESoMELETTE AUX omelette. OMELETfE Sweet potato Omelette potatoes fried in butter. fried in butter. sweet potatoes using sweet Parmentier using Omelette Parmentier

slices curry powder. powder. Make Make a flat flat omelette omelette and and garnish garnish with with slices and of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads dipped in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sauce, saut6ed sautéed in butter. Serve with with Creon Cream sauce. like roMATEs -- Prepare Tomato omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETfE AUx AUX TOMATES Prepare Iike garlic seasoning. seasoning. omit the but omit Omelette Omelette h àh la provengale provençale but the garlic Add to to the Tmffie omelette. Truflle omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A(x AUX TRUFFEs TRUFFES -- Add the Garnish diced truffies lightly beaten eggs, eggs, diced lightly tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Garnish Serve in butter. butter. Serve tossed in the flat omelette omelette with slivers of truffie tossed Madeira (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see flavoured with with Madeira and trufle truffle essence. lu (Brillat-Savarin's recipe). recipe). OMELETTE olmlurrn AU Tunny omelette (Brillat-Savarin's Tunny omelette salted slightly salted roes in in slightly soft carps' roes blanch soft THoN THON -- Wash and blanch up finely. Chop Chop up Drain and chop finely. boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain with aa small, small, together with the roes, roes, together add to the aa piece piece of tunny and add in best best butter, butter, mixture in the mixture Saut6 the shallot. Sauté finely chopped shallot. finely chopped well. blending weil. parsley and chopped and chopped with parsley Heat aa second piece of butter with Heat dish warmed dish mixture onto onto aa warmed Pour this this mixture onions. Pour spring onions. spring juice, and and lemon juice, sprinkle with with lemon the omelette, omelette, sprinkle for the intended intended for tunny roe and and tunny the roe and add add the eggs and 12 fresh fresh eggs Beat 12 keep warm. warm. Beat keep and transfer omelette and long, thick thick omelette Make aa long, mixture to to them. them. Make mixture recipe isis also also This recipe very hot. hot. This dish. Serve Serve very to the the prepared dish. itit to dt curé. curd. called Omelette du called plNlcg6n -_ Beat Beat 33 6MELETTE PANACHÉE omelette. OMELETTE Two-colqrred omelette. Two-coloured pulp, and an make an puree or and make tomato pulp, or tomato spinach purée eggs with thick spinach semi-liquid. interior semi-Iiquid. keeping the the interior omelette, keeping omelette, put folding, put When folding, eggs. When using 66 eggs. omelette, using Make another another omelette, Make lAhirc, Brown, Brown, wjfih White, it. Sur Surround inside it. omelette inside the smaller smaller omelette the round with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see or Tomato or egg aa to the the beaten beaten egg Add to la verdurière verduriire -- Add Omelette àI la Omelette chopped in butter, butter, chopped tossod in lettuce tossed sorrel and and lettuce of sorrel chffinade of chiffonade and flat omelette omelette and Make aa flat parsley, chervil, tarragon. Make and tarragon. chervil, and parsley, (see BUTTER). BUTTER). butter (see Noisette butter sprinkle with with Noisette sprinkle hearts in in courtcourtartichoke hearts diced artichoke Cook 22 diced vivcur -- Cook Omelette viveur Omelette Remove butter. Remove in clarified clarified butter. fry briskly briskly in draiq and and fry bouillon, drain, bouillon, diced, blanched, diced, tablespoons blanched, pan and fry 22 tablespoons and fry the pan from the from Drain. same butter. butter. Drain. celeriac in in the the same celeriac salt and and with salt seasoned with (3 oz.) beef seasoned g. (3 fillet of of beef oz.) diced diced fiUet Fry 75 75 g. Fry celeriac and celeriac artichokes and Put the the artichokes paprika, in the same same butter. butter. Put in the paprika, chopped eggs with with chopped pan and the eggs Beat the mix. Beat and mix. the pan into the back back into pan with other with the the other pour into the pan into the parsley and and pour and chervil chervil and parsley flat omelette. omelette. Make aa flat ingredients. ingredients. Make D'ENTRE(DESSERT) OMELETTES. otvtsl"srrEs D'ENTREOMELETTES. OMELETTES SWEET SWEET (DESSERT) METSMETS _ filled omelettes, fiIled Three sm small la Célestine C6lestine -- Three Omelette ail omelettes, Omelette àI la with dish, sprinkled sprinkled with row on on aa dish, in aa row arranged in with apricot jam, arranged with apricotjam, glazed in hot oven. oven. in aa hot sugar and and glazed fine sugar fine finely sugar, finely eggs with with sugar, Beat the the eggs la dijoonaise dijonnaise -- Beat Omelette Omelette ài la flat Make 22 flat cream. Make and double double cream. macaroens, and crushed crushed macaroQns, pastry French pastry layer of of French thick layer one with with aa thick Spread One omelettes. omelettes. Spread ground almonds and almonds and (see CREAM) mixed with with ground cream crecon (see CREAM) mixed jam, and second with the the second and cover cover with blackcurrant jam, flavoured flavoured with with blackcurrant sides.Sprinkle Sprinkle and sides. the top top and on the meringue on Spoon meringue omelette. omelette. Spoon with andserve serve with glaze in hot oven, oven, and n aavery very hot with sugar,glaze with icing icing sugar, jam. blackcurrant blackcurrant jam. r-4, FRANGIPANE TnnNcIPANE - oMBLETTESÀA LA Frangipane omelettes. OMELETfES Frangipane omelettes. (scantti cup) sugar,22 finesugar, cup) fine with 33tablespoons tablespoons (seant Beat Beat 10 l0 eggs eggs with dl. (6(6 and 1I dl. melted butter, butter, and tablespoons tablespoons) melted tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) pinchof salt' ofsalt. Add aasmall small pinch cup)cream. cream.Add tablespoons, scant 1-I cup) tablespoons, seant put them themon on cooked, put When cooked, Make 0 small flatomelettes. omelettes. When Make ]l0 small flat of Frangipane Frangipane layet of with aa layer aa baking each with spread each sheet, spread baking sheet, sprinklewith with (seeCREAM), ends,sprinkle off the the ends, cut off fold,eut cream CREAM), fold, uecrrn (see oven. glaze in very hot hotoven. inaavery fine finesugar, sugar,and andglaze

Tomato Tomato omelette omeletteand andbacon bacon

355 355

EGGS EGGS

Norwegian Norwegian omelette omelette or or Baked Baked Alaska Alaska (Ro6ert (Robert Carrier\ Carrier)

356

EGYPT EGYPT on on itit through Ihrough aa forcing-bag. forcing-bag. Sprinkle with with very very fine fine sugar sugar

Jam omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A(rx AUX coNFlruRns CONFITURES -- Prepare Prepare like like Jam Jam and and fruit fruit omelelte omelelle (see (see below) below) replacing replacing the the fruit fruit by by Jam thick jam. jam. thick Jam and and fruit fruit omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A À r,l LA coNT,ITURE CONFITURE ET ET AUx AUX Jam FRUlTS -- Beat Beat the the eggs with with fine fine sugar, adding adding a pinch of of FRUITS salt. Cook in butter butter in the the usual usual way. way. When When folding the the salt. 611 with with the the desired desired fruit which which is is usually usually cooked cooked omelette, fill en compote compote in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured syrup, drained, draÎned, bound bound with with en jam suitable suitable for for the the fruit, fruit, and flavoured with with liqueur. liqueur. a jam Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar and glaze glaze under under the the grill or in in aa hot hot Sprinkle Oyen. oven. Liqueur omelette omelette flanbee. tlambée. oMELETTE OMELETTE Aux AUX LIeuEuRs L1Ql.Jl::URS Liqueur FLAMBÉE -- Rum Rum omelette omelette is is the the most common of these these rrlrusfr omelettes. Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with with fine fine sugar, sugar, add add a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, omelettes. cook the the omelette omelette in in butter, butter, keeprng keeping itit semi-liquid semi-liquid inside. înside. and cook Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar and pour pour warmed rum mm over over it. il. Set it il Sprinkle when serving. serving. alight when Armagnac, Calvados, Cognac, whisky, kirsch and and other Armagnac, from various varÎous fruits fruits can be used spirits and liqueurs made from of rum. instead of omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A À Lt lA NoRMANDE NORMANDE Normandy apple omelette. Beat 10 10 eggs eggs with sugar and and fresh fresh cream. Peel Peel and and cut 33 Beat apples into slices. Cook the the apples apples in butter and cooking apples tahlespoons (} cup) fresh fresh sugar. Add Add 4 tablespoons vanilla-flavoured sugar. (3 tabledouble cream, cream, and and flavour t'lavour with with 2 2 tablespoons (3 double Make the omelette omelette and fill with the apple spoons) Calvados. Make mixture. Glaze under the grill and serve with double cream. (U.S. Bakd A omelette (U.S. Baked Alaska). Alaska). oMernrrr OMELETTE À Norwegian omelette LA NonvfcIENNE NORVÉGIENNE - The invention of of the r,c, The invention the omelette omelette àd la Ia American-born physicist, norvegienne is is attributed to ta an an AmerÎcan-hom norvigienne Benjamin Thompson. But Baron Baron Brisse, Brisse, writing in in 1866, Benjamin Thompson. But states that a French chef learnl the secret of ice being ofice cheflearnt being baked Paris with ln the oven from a Chinese colleague who came to Paris in MissÎon. He describes the delicate delicale operation: a Chinese Mission. very light it in 'Chili the ice ice cream untiJ hard, hard, wrap it in a a very 'Chill the cream until pastry crust and put in a hot oyen. oven. The The pastry paslry is baked before the poor the ice can mel!. melt. This phenomenon is explained by the can thus Gourmets can substances. Gourmets of cenain certain substances. conductibility of of biting through pipinggive themselves the double pleasure ofbiting palate on on contact contact with the ice hot crust, hot crust, and and cooJing cooling the palate cream.' cm. C!put aa piece of cake 2 cm. of Genoa Genoa cake Alternatively, PUI @ inch) and put with liqueur and thick thick on on an an ovenproof dish, sprinkle with the entire cake with a layer of top. Enclose the the ice cream creirm on top. in aa very hot Bake in sugar. Bake icing sugar. meringue and and sprinkle with icing oven meringue quickly becomes golden brown, so that that the the'meringue oven so penetrate through to the to penetrale but not long enough enougb for the heat to but Dot ice cream. LA pineapple. OMELETTE oMnrerrr ÀA LA with pineapple. Norwegian Norwegian omelette omelette whh in the as described described in NORVÉ'.GIENNE Proceed as NonvfcrcNNe ÀA L'ANANAS r'lNlNls -- Proceed cream and ice cream preceding recipe, using filling pineapple ice as aa filliog using as pineapple cooked in syrup. fine sugar, sugar, with fine the eggs wilh 'U'llll"''':no:: PedauEre -- Beat the Omelette Reine Pédauque ground almonds. flat omelettes. omelettes. almonds. Make 2 fiat fresh and grollnd fresh cream, cream, and puree mixed mixd with Spread layer of of apple apple purée thick layer Spread one one with with aa thick Put the the second kirsch. Put fresh flavoured with with kirsch. and ftavoured cream and fresh cream of meringue. meringue. whole with aa layer of omelette cover the whole and coyer omelette on on top and put in until very bot hot oyen oven until in aa very Sprinkle sugar and and put with icing icing sugar Sprinkle with golden brown, has set. set. the meringue brown, and and has meringue isis golden (9 oz., g. (9 oz., 250 g. Blend 250 sotnrrfo -- Blcnd Soufflé oMELETTE SOUfFLÉE omelette. OMELETIE Soufl6 omelette. generous cup) yolks with vanilla with vaniJla egg yolks cup) fine fine sugar sugar and and 66 egg grated lemon Mix unlil until the the flavouring or rind. Mix n"'J"",""""fY lemon or or orange orange rind. or grated mixture turns white and forms forms aa ribbon. white and gently fold gently into aa very very stitf stiff froth froth and and rold Whisk egg whites whites inlo Whisk 88 egg mixture. Butler Butter an an ovenproof ovenproof dish dish and and into into the the above above mixture. mixture fine sugar. pour Pour in in the the omelette omelette mixture sprinkle itit with with fine (having reserved and smooth smooth itit with with the the blade blade of of aa reserved aa little) and piping the the reserved reserved mixture mixture knife. Decorate the the omelette omelette by by piping

and in aa hot hot oven. oyen. and bake bake in Strawberry StrawbelT)' omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALrx AUX FRAISES FRAISES -- Make Make an an omelette omelette with with eggs beaten beaten with with sugar, aa pinch pinch of salt, and and aa little little cream. cream. Steep strawberries strawberries in in rum, or kirsch, and sugar, and fold fold them them into into the tbe omelette. omelelle. Sprinkle with fine

sugar sugar and and glaze glaze under under the the grill. grill. Surround with crushed strawberries strawberries sprinkled sprinkled with wÎth sugar sugar and and flavoured with

liqueur. Omelette ........A"' ..:no:: with with zugar. sugar. oMELETTE OMELETTE AU AU sucRr SUCRE - Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with wilh sugar and a small pinch pineh of salt. Flavour Flavour the the omelette with with grated grated orange, orange, lemon lemon or tangerine tangerine rind, rind, sprinkle sprinkle with glaze the fine fine sugar, and glaze the omelette under under the tbe grill. grill.

FISHES' EGGS. oEUFs OEUFS DE DE polssoNs POISSONS -- Eggs Eggs of certain certain kinds kinds FISHES' EGGS. of of fish fish are are used used for for food. food. The The most mos! highly highly esteemed esteemcd are are those those of the sturgeon and and sterlet, which which are used used for preparing preparing caviare. Other Other edible fishes' fishes' eggs include include those of the shad, of which the Americans Americans are very fond, and those those of fresh or pickled herring herring which are delicate in taste. The eggs of various various shellfish are also edible. edible.

REPTILES' REPTILES' EGGS, EGGS. TURTLE TURTLE EGGS. EGGS.

OEUFS OEUFS DE DE REPTILE, REPTILE, onuFs DE ToRruE TORTUE - Reptiles' Reptiles' eggs eggs are are very little liUle used used in OEUFS DE European European cookery. They are, are, however, howevcr, much prized by the Arabs and and the the Indians who who are are particularly particularly fond fond of of the calnnan's cayman's eggs. Turtle eggs are mainly rnainly used for soup.

a

SCE AUBERGINE. EGGPLANT EGGPLANT -- See

glass utensil of two Small glass EGG'TIMER. EGG-Tl MER. sABrtnR. SABLIER -- SmaU utensil made of bulbous bulbous glass containers narrowing narrowing in the the middle, where where they small opening. One of the communicate by means of of a very 5mall containers has a fixed quantity quantity of sand which passes passes into the down. It other otner when the egg-timer egg-tîmer is turned turned upside down. It takes takes 3 minutes to 10 do do this - the Ihe usual usual time allowed aHowed for soft-boiling an an egg.

ncrrNnnn -- Wild rose-bush. EGLANTINB EGLANTINE, DOG-ROSE. EGLANTIER WiJd rose-bush. and cOl1tain contain about The hips are are red, ovoid, and and elongated, and The dozen small hairy ossicles. ossicles. a dozen pulp has is used used to to make Hip pulp has astringent properties, and and is jam. Dog-rose hip preserve isis still still sometimes sometimes used used for jam. the hips, with with by steeping the chronic diarrhoea. It is prepared prepared by out, in and cooking and hair scraped out, the seeds and in white wine, and in sugar. in It lf times times its weight in the pulp in to a certain Ecypre -- Egyptian cuisine is influenccd influenced [0 EGYPT. ËGYPTE luxury hotels) Europe (especially in in the the luxury extent by by Ihat that of of Europe extent source of of inspiration isis Oriental. Oriental. Present but ils its principal source but than that is as good, if not better, than day Egyptian gastronomy is of many European countries. from maÎze made from The staple bread made maae staple diet of of Egyptians isis bread The plenty and Ihere there are are plenly flour. Vegetables Vegetables are are highly highly esteemed esteemed and flour. Rice is served both as aa dish dish in in to choose from. from. Riec is servcd both as of varieties to rozzette) and as aa garnish. its own right right (such as as the popular rozzelle) ilS seasoned with with mint, mint, isis A vegetable called called foui midames, seasoned A foul médames, to he their national national dish. dish. considered by by the the Egyptians Egyptians to be their is the Molokheya soup, special herb herb seasonîng, seasoning, is the its special soup, with with its Molokheya national soup. national seasoned rab rabbit or chicken chicken sozp consists of of aa highly seasoned Green soup bit or grem leaf garnished with vegetables. chopped green leaf vegetables. stock garnished with finely finely chopped stock tomato sauce. sauce. eaten with with rice rice and and tomato IlIt isis eaten in Egypt. meat in mutton isis the the favourite favourite meat Charcoal-grilled mutlon Charcoal-grilled farm work, their flesh flesh isis very very are used used for for farm work, their Since bullocks bullocks are Since for stews. stews. tough and and only only suitable suitable for vegetable. Then Then much appreciated appreciated vegel..able. The bamia bamia is is another another much just as (sold in potatoes (sold in wÎnter in the the streets streets in winter just as there are are sweet sweet potatoes there London and Potatoes roast chestnuts in Paris, Paris, London and Vienna). Vienna). Potatocs chestnuts are are in roast as, in in fact, fact, are are and Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes are are also also available available as, and in Europe. Europe. most of of the the vegetables vegetables cultivated cultivated in most 357 357

EGYPTIAN LOTUS GYPTIAN LOTUS

(Maisonet jardin. PhOl. Egg-timers (Maison Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Egg-tirners el jardin.

There is is aa delicious variety of giant crayfish crayfish fished fished in in the the There (known by the Italian name, gambari) Red Sea Sea (known gambar) and and batarekh, batarekh, Red kind oflocal oflocal caviare. aa kind The most typical cakes cakes are are the the marzipan marzipan baklawa baklawa and and The most typical konafa; they are Syrian in origin. origin. cultivated Egyptian fruit fruit isis the the date, date, of of The most widely cultivated which are fifteen are excellent excellent large, which there are fifteen varieties. There are sweet, and sugar sugar cane. cane. The The latter is is sold sold in in special sweet, limes, limes, and shops, shops, the the juice juice being being extracted on the spot for the customer. Egypt, juice to countries, does does not not use use this this juice Egypt, unlike unlike other other countries, make rum. There are also grenadines, alsa oranges, mandarins, grenadines, mangoes, mangoes, bananas, bananas, etc. etc.

had been had been electrocuted, electrocuted, they they suddenly suddenly found found aa fine, fine, distinctive distinctive flavour in flavour in the the flesh. flesh. Domestic fowls Domestic fowls are are no no longer longer electrocuted, electrocuted, but but electricity electricity has come has come into into use use in in the the kitchen kitchen as power for as aa motive motive power for driving labour-saving devices, driving labour-saving devices, and and as as aa heating heating medium. medium. Electric Electric cookers cookers are are c1ean clean and highly efficient, and highly efficient, with with sophistisophisticated cated temperature control, control, and and offer precision offer maximum maximum precision preparation of in the the preparation of food. food. The The development development of of electrical electrical household household equipment equipment has has made made necessary necessary the the installation installation of high voltage voltage electrical of high electrical points in the kitchen. The The installation installation of points should of these these points should be be entrusted entrusted only qualified electrical only to to qualified electrical experts. experts. There There should plugs near should be no plugs be no near water water inlets; inlets; flex flex should should be be chanchannelled nelled through tubes tubes or or insulated insulated in (all conin other other ways ways (ail connections nections should should be be carefully carefully insulated, insulated, certain certain types types of of equipment equipment should should be be earthed, earthed, etc.). etc.). Loose Loose lengths lengths of flex of Bex should umber of should be be avoided; avoided; itit is is better better to to increase increase the the nnumber of electrical points, sa so that the various pieces pieces of equipment equipment can can be plugged in be possible to in as as close as as possible to their their area area of of use. use. The The strength strength of the the power-feed must must be be sufficient to to allow allow for for in the any increase in the number of electrical appliances appliances used used at at one time. Modern electrical Modern electrical equipment, equipment, with with its its high high level level of of efficiency, is is usually usually safe, efficiency, safe, but but itit is is advisable advisable to to buy buy from from manufacturers whose reliable manufacturers goods are whose goods are quality-tested and and guaranteed. guaranteed. Household and and kitchen kitchen aids be divided Household aids can can be divided into into two two categories: a a basic basic machine machine that that operates categories: operates aa number number of of or a a number number of of appliances appliances, or appliances each each with with its its own own motor. In large-scale catering (restaurants, institutions, motor. In large-scale catering (restaurants, institutions, autonomous pressure pressure cookers, cookers, griddles, etc.) autonomous etc.) griddles, deep-friers, deep-friers, etc., are are used. used. Appliances Appliances like like beaters, beaters, mixers, etc., mixers, mincers, mincers, slicers, etc. etc. help help to to cut cut time time and and labour labour costs. whisks, slicers, costs. These, These, however, cannot entirely entirely take take the the place of of manual manual labour: labour: however,

EGYPTIAI\ EGYPIIAN LOTUS. LOTUS. Nrrur,rso-Aquatic NELUMBO - Aquatic plant, also known as as Nile Ni/e lily. li/y. This magnificent magnificent plant, which was was the the sacred lotus of ancient Egypt, is now no longer found found on the the Nile, lotus of but but itit still grows in India and China. Its leaves leaves and roots are edible and its fruit contains con tains up to thirty kernels which which are very very delicate delicate in in flavour. fIavour.

EIDER wild duck. EIDER - Species Species of ofwild duck. ELDERBERRY ELDERBERRY GOURILOS. MoELLE MOELLE DE DE srrREAU SUREAU - After paring outer casing, casing, green elderberry elderberry stalks stalks paring away away the the woody woody outer can can be be cooked cooked in in the the same sa me way as artichoke.stalks artichokestalks or endive endive stumps. stumps.

ELECTRICITY. ELECfRICITY. frpcrucrrf ÉLECTRICITÉ -- A form forro of energy energy which is only only apparent apparent to to our our senses senses when when itit has has been been converted into into chemical, other chemical, calorific, calorific, illuminative, illuminative, mechanical, mechanical, or or other energy. energy.

Electricity Electricity was was first first used used as as aa culinary culinary aid during during a dinner dinner given given under under the the French French Restoration, Restoration, when when chickens chickens were were served served that that had had been been killed killed neither neither by by wringing wringing their their necks necks nor nor slitting slitting their their throats, throats, aa fact fact that that excited excited the the curiosity curiosity of the the guests guests when when they they were were told. told. Upon Upon hearing hearing that that the the fowls fowls

358 358

EN.CAS EN-CAS Eminc€s of beef with poiwade sauce. sauce. ErarNcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF for for Emincis Émincés of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, covering covering the the meat meal with with Poivrade Poivrade sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Emincds Émincés of of beef bœf with witt Robert Robert souce. ftutNcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE BoEUF BOEUf sAUcE SAUCE RoBERT ROBERT -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Emincis of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, covering the the meat meat with with Robert Robert sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Enincds of of beef bœf with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. ftrltlcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF sAUcE SAUCE ToMATE TOMATE -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Emincds Émincés of beef chasseur, covering covering the the meat meat with Tomato TomalO sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). After ACter being being covered with wilh the the sauce sauce indicated, indicated, imincis of of beef beef can be be garnished garnished in in various various ways. ways. The The garnishes garnishes most most suited to to these these dishes are: are: saut6 saute potatoes; gree,n vegetables vegetables tossed in butter butter or or cream; cream. braised vegetables; pur6es of of lossed in pulses pulses and and chestnuts; pasta pasta of of various various kinds; rice pilaf pilaf and and risotto. mutton or nminces Émiocés of ofmuttoo or lamb. 18mb. ErarNcfs ÉMINCÉS oe DE MouroN, MOUTON, D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU Proceed as as for for imincis éminces of of beef, beef, using using left-over left-over roast roast or or - Proceed braised mutton mutlon or lamb. lamb. Erninces Émincés of of pork. pork. nr,nNcts ÉMINCÉS DE DE PoRc PORC - Proceed, Proceed, using using slices slices for dmincis of left-over left-over pork, pork, as as for émincés of of beef. beef. fninces of poultry. pooltTy. frrlrNcrs ÉMINCÉS DE DE voLAILLB VOLAILLE -- Make Make with with thin thin Émincés of slices of roast or poached poached left-over left-over poultry. All AH methods methods of of poultry. of poullry. serving imincis émincés of of beef are are suitable suitable fot imincds of cream sauces, such They can also be covered with with white white sauces, such as as cream hongroise' sauce, curry, supréme, ravigote, ravigote, hongroise. curry, suprime, cHEYREUIT f,ninces of of roebuck. funNcfs ÊMI.NC~.s DE DE CHEVREUIL .- Proceed, Proceed, fot imincis as for roast roebuck, of left-over roast using slices of roebuck, as émincés of of using slices beef. game, can be all This dish, and other ground game, be covered covered with with ail veneur, ground game, game, e.g. e.g. grand grand veneur, sauces especially especially suitable for graund romaine. romaine. bntn,llke DE vEAU EtvtIxcfs DE Emincds of veal. ÉMINCÉS Émincés VEAU - Prepared, Prepared, àd brun, like poultry. of poultry. imincds of blanc,like of beei imincis émincés of beef, àit blanc, like émincés

they they are are useful useful aids, aîds, no no more. more. And And not not all al! machines machines are are equipped equipped with with aa sufficient sufficient number number of of speed speOO variants. variants.

sAUcE as SAUCE poIvRADE POlVRADE - Proceed as

ELEPHAI{T. ELEPHAl'I1'. frfpsnNr ÉLÉPHANT -- Elephant Elephant meat meat is IS edible but but leathery. leathery. The The trunk trunk and and feet feet are are regarded regarded as as great great delicacies delicacies in in some sorne Asian Asian countries. countries.

manufactured by by dissolving dissolving ELIXIR. ELlXJR. 6rDsR ÉLlXJR -- Liquid manufactured

various in alcohol or wine wine containing contammg aa high provarîous elements e\ernents in portion of alcohol. alcohol. The The old Codex Codex Pharmacopoera Pharmacopoeia included portion of large number number of formulae fonnulae for elixirs. e!ixirs. The present present Codex Codex a large includes among which which are the the following: following: includes only 6, among Elixir of of cola. cola. 6rxn. ÉLIXIR DE DE coLA COLA -- 50 50 g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) fluid extract extracl of of Elixir 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) 60" proof alcohol, 100 e. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) plain plain cola, 100 syrup and 750 g. (l? lb.) Lunel wine. GARUS -- Steep I1 g. vanilla vanilla and Elixir of Garus. 6t xn DE cARUs g. saffron in I1 kg. (2* (2! lb.) spirit of of Garus for 22 days. ]tg. oz.) r4aidenhair Infuse Infuse 20 20 e. e (~oz.) Tr!aidenha ir fern fem in in 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz.) 30 minutes. Add 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) distilled distilled boiling water water for 30 boiling kg (2+lb.,4f (2i lb., 41- cups) white sugar. orange-flower water water and and I1 kg orange-flower Mix well. weIl. Add the spirit spirit to this trus syrup. syrup. Leave to cool and filter. tiHer. Elixir Elixir of of Grande-Chartreuse. Grwde--Chartrwse. 6rtxn ÉLIXIR os DE LA LA GRANDEGRANDESteep the CHARTREUSE - Steep Ihe following following for for 8 8 days days in in l0 10 litres lilres cHARTREUsE of (9 (9 quarts, quarts, ll Il quarts) alcohol:650 alcohol: 650 g. g. (scant (seant l+ 11 lb.) each each of 300 g. fresh melissa melissa leaves leaves and and hyssop hyssop leaves, leaves, 300 g. (11 (II oz.) fresh 50 g. (2 oz.) 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) cinnamon cinnamon pod, pod, 50 leaves, 150 angelica leaves, 5+ Distil. Add mace and and saffron. saffron. Distil. Add 1260 126û g. each of mace E. QZ lb., 5t cups) white sugar. ÉLAN -- Wild ruminant found found in northem Europe. The ELK. 6r,.,c,N its flesh and its existence, and stag in elk is is now now the the largest stag in existence, flesh is elk deer are are suitable for and fallow edibJe. AH recipes recipes for stag and fallaw deer edible. All elk.

degree of of indicated aa degree This word word once once indicated EMBONPOINT -- This size, but but it fat was in which corpulence in which fat was proportionate to ta size, it is for slight obesity. as aa euphemism for used as now now commonly used good food are usually proud of their Connoisseurs of good Connoisseurs food are their weight might be they although whatever their embonpoint although embonpoÎnt never admit to being fat.

slice to slice meaning ta cookery meaning in French French cookery used in E*ffNCnn -- Term used ÉMINCER and turnips are very t'inely. finely. Carrois Carrots and fruit very meat, meat, vegetables or fruit pteparation, mushraoms mushrooms when fot a paysanne finely sliced sliced for finely paysanne preparation, potatoes, sliced potatoes, Finely sliced butter. Finely in butter. saut6ed in to be are 10 they are he sautéed iminci. tobe said etc. are also sa apples, etc. id to be émincé.

CHEESE. See CHEESE. EMMENTHAL -- See EMMENTHAL

meat. Thinly Thinly sliced, itit left-over meat. npffnCf -- Dish made with left-over ÉMINCÉ sauce, such is placed in an ovenware ovenware dish and covered with aa sauce, is Robert, ltalian, piquante, Robert, chasseur, Italian,piquanze, borde laise, mushroom, chasseur, as hordelaise, etc. Tomato, etc. the sauce heated only only in in the sauce meat must must be be heated These slices of meat slices of These if roast roast meat meat poured over 1them especially if boil, especially hem,; they must not bail, are most most commonly commonly mutton, or or lamb are is used. used. Beer, Beef, roebuck, mutton, sometimes made with poultry. for Ihis this dish dish but but itit isis sometimes used for used fir,rmc€s DE DE BOEUF BoEUF sauce. ÉMINCÉS of beef bordelaise sauce. Eminces of bed with with bordelaise Éminces in aa dish dish and and slices of of meat in the slices sAUcE BORDELAISE BoRDELAIsE -- Arrange the SAUCE poached beef garnish with bone-marrow. Cover Cover beef bone-marrow. strips of of poached with strips gamish (see SAUCE). wth Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce (see with DE BOEUF BoEUF CHASSEUR cHAssEUR --chasseur. frurucfs DE fminc6s of of beef bed chasswt. Émincés dish and and cover cover with with boiling of beef beef on on aa dish Arrange slices slices of Arrange (see SA SAUCE). Chasseur sauce (see Chasseur UCE). pn BOEUF soeuF ÀA fivrmcfs DE l'italienne. ÉMlNCÉS fnincds of of bœf beef àI lïta]jenoe. Émincés for Émincès Emincis of beef chasseur, chasseur, L'ITALENNE -- Proceed as for Proceed as L'lTALŒNNE ltaliut sauce sauce (se SAUCE). covering the the meat meat with with ltalian la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. fruwcfs os sosuF A rA, beef àA hl Eninc6s of of hœf as for for Émincés Emincis of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, LyoNNAIsE -- Proceed Proceed as LYOl'~$ r 'Meliso/

Bilberry j.m

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Pike. Motelote of fish Snails. fimbole graYloise

Pikc quenelles

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Lons-lej-S Barquette of \ duck', Ilver Hot pigeon Sweetbre.d morels

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SAVOY SAVOY of Frar.che-Comte Franche-Comt6 Gastronomic map map or Gastronomie

gratin; cheese an gralin; cheese pain d'écrivisses; marrow au d'ioivisses; marrow cheese fondue; cheese fondue; pain pancakes called called onion /Ourle; tourte; pancakes potatoes; morels toast: onion morels on on loasl; po/alOes,' specially cheese tart tart specially ramekins ; frillers; matefaim ; rumekins; male/àim; flamus se, cheese frit ter s : flamusse, and made with with eggs eggs and flat bread bread made siche, flat made Ln in Burgundy; Burgundy; sèche, made pastry and and almond pas/l'y Baume-les-Dames; a/mond of Baume-les-Dames; sugar; craquelins craquelins of sugar; malakof of of Montb6liard; malakoff viques of of Montbéliard; Montbozon; viques biscuits of of Montbozon; bL5cuils galette de goumeau of of Saint-Amour; Saint-Amour; quiche com/Oise; de goumeau comtoise; ga/elle DOle; quiche Dôle; chestnut of Baume-les-Dames; Baume-les-Dames; ches/nu/ gaufres de de chanoinesses chanoinesses of gaufres paste made from made from Dole; pas/e pain d'épice Vercel and and Dole; of Vercel d'dpice of cakes; pain cakes; andwhortlebilberry and quinces growing growing in Baumeles-Dames; bilberry in Baume-les-Dames; quinces who rllejam l'rom Melisey. from Melisey. berry jam berry (and particularly particularly Franche-Comt6 (and Wines and and liqueurs liqueurs -- Franche-Comté Wines produces white, red, red, and and excellent white, Jura) prod of Jura) the déparlemenl dipartemmt of uces excellent the yellow wine, wine, which which the celebrated celebrated yellow not to to mention mention the ros6 wines, wines, not rosé (vins de paille) de paille) and s!raw straw wines wines (vins region, and speciality of of the the region, isis aa speciality and Hermitage, Hermitage. Jura and which are find outside outside Jura are difficu]! difficult to to find which

the specialities specialities among the Foremost among Cutinary specialities specialities -- Foremost CuJinary prepared potie franc-comlOise, which isis prepared porridge, pOlée are maize maize porridge, are franc-comtoise, which has Morteau Morteau (q.v.) from but has potie (q.v.) other regions regions but from other like pOlée Iike panada, aa dish like aa dish like leg soup; soup; panada, to il; it; frog's sausage added added to sausage frog's leg pulp; cherry soup; cherry soup; boiled to to aa pulp; and butter butter boiled soup with with bread bread and soup vegetables. fresh vegetables. soups made made with with fresh range of of soups and aa whole whole range and and can can be be Franche-Comt6 and in Franche-Comté All charculerie charcuterie isis excellent excellent in Ail includes large towns. towns. IlIt includes many other other large in Paris and many bought in Paris and bought kinds of of different kinds from Luxeuil; Luxeuil; different ham, mainly mainly l'rom smoked ham, smoked and Montbozon; and from Montbozon; sausage from sausages including including caraway caraway sausage sausages Besangon. stufed lOngue tongue from from Besançon, slUffed found in in Franche-Comté Franche-Comt6 dishes to to be be round The most most làmous famous dishes The or red red white or fish with with white from freshwater freshwater fish stews made made from are fish are fish Slews very in wine, cooked very wine, cooked herbs; meal meat braised braised in wine, onions onions and and herbs; wine, juices; preserve ail all the the meat meat juices; to preserve casserole to slowly in in aa covered covered casserole slowly jugged hare hare àd /ala fi'anc-comlOise; pike quenelles quenelles of of Vesoul; Vesoul; jugged pike franc-comtoise; 391 391

FRANCILLON SALAD SALAD FRANCILLON yellow wine The yellow wineisismade made from fromthe grape.The theSavagnin Savagningrape. The The distinctive nutty f1avour jaune) demands (gotit de flavour(goût dejaune) demands strictly strictly distinctive nutty controlled and highly specialisod methods of vinification. controlled and highly specialised methods of vinification. fermentation, and conservation. conservation.The The best yellow wine best yellow wine isis fermentation, and that of Chfl teau-Chalon. tha! of Château-Chalon. Straw wine wine isisso-called so-called because grapes are because the the grapes aresun-dried sundried Straw on straw mats mats before pressed. before being being pressed. on straw The Jura appellations appellationsare: are: The Jura Yellow wines. wines. Arbois, Arbois, Côtes C6tes du du Jura, Jura, Château-Chalon, Chdteau-Chalon, Yel/ow Etoile. Étoile. Straw wines. wines. Arbois, Cdtes du Jura, Etoile. Straw Arbois, Côtes du Jura, Étoile. Red and rosi wines. Arbois. C6tes du Jura. Red and rosé wines. Arbois, Côtes du Jura. While wines. Arbois, C6tes du Jura, Etoile. White wines. Arbois, Côtes du Jura, Étoile. Some well-known well-known liqueurs liqueurs are are also also made made in in FrancheFrancheSorne Comt6. The The kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly well known. Comté. kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly weU known.

Since 1888, 1888, various various laws laws have havedefined defined the thercpression repression of Since of fraudulent practices practices inin the the marketing marketing of goods. Acts of goods. Acts and and fraudulent decreeshave have been, been, and and continue continue toto be passed to protect be passed to protect decrees drink and produce. and food food produce. drink In France, France, from from the the Middle Middle Ages Ages onwards, quality and onwards, quality and ln quantity were were under understrict strict surveillance. surveillance. River ports, markets, River ports, markets, quantity and shops shops were wereail allcontrolled. controlled. Thus Thus in in 1577 1577 Henri Henri III III ordered ordered and all bakers bakers to pair of to keep keep aa pair of scales scales and and legitimate legitimate weights weights inin ail their windows, windows, workrooms, workrooms, and and carts, carts,50 so that that each each eus customer theu tomer might check check the the weight weight of his bread of his bread himself. himself. ln ln the rhe eigheighmight teenth century, century, the the Police Police Code Code added that the addod that thescales scales had had to to teenth be hung hung sufficiently sufficiently high high to preclude the to preclude possibility of the possibility of the the be seller tipping tipping itit with with rus his thumb. thumb. seller Fraudulent practices were severely reprimanded: were severely reprimanded : penalties penalties Fra udulent practices included the the confiscation confiscation of goods, demolition of goods, demolition of of ovens, ovens, aa included fine or or an an amende amende honorable, honorable, and, and, in in the Middle Ages, the Middle Ages, fine public flogging. flogging. public In 1431, 1431, if if aa cookshop proprietor sold cookshop proprietor sold aa cat cat for for aa rabbit, rabbit, ln he was was condemned condemned to go to to go to the the banks banks of of the the Seine Seine in in the the he part of busiest part of the the day day and and shout shout an an apology apology to to the the crowd crowd busiest while throwing throwing the the offending offending cat cat into the the river. river. The The butchers butchers while were forbidden forbidden to pigs nourished to buy buy pigs nourished on human blood. on human blood. It It were was forbidden forbidden to to sell sell reheated reheated meat, meat, to keep meal to keep meat more more than than was two days days in in win winter and one one and and aa half days days in in summer, summer, to two ter and sell meat meat by by lamplight lamplight or or candlelight candlelight (such (such Iights lights made made it it sell easier for for discoloured, putrid meal discoloured, putrid passed off as meat to to be be passed as rosy easier and fresh). fresh). A A regulation regulation in in 1399 1399 controlled controlled the the time time of of day day and during which which candies candles might might be used. during On22 June 1351 l35l sorne some suspect meat was confiscated confiscated in Ihe the On 22 June master butcher Bardel's shop in in rue Baudet-Saint-Antoine. mas ter butcher Bardel's shop Baudet-Saint-Antoine. The Corporation, Corporation, outraged outraged that one of of their members The that one their members should disgraced himself, demanded thal that he he be shou Id have have disgraced himself, demanded be condemned. He accused as demned. He was was accused as a poisoner poisoner and was taken to the pillory in Les subsequently put to death. pillory in Les Halleswhere Halles where he he was was subsequently paris butchers One hundred One hundred and and twenty-seven twenty-seven bareheaded bareheaded Paris witnessod execution of witnessed the the execution of their their confrire. confrère.

IilUUYCIIr.ON SALAn SALN) - Title Title of of aa Japanese Japanese. salad, salad, the the FRANCILLON recipe for given by for which which was younger Alexandre was given by the the younger Alexandre recipe Dumas in play Francillon in aa play performed at Francillon perfonned at the the ComédieCom6dieDumas Francaise. The The recipe recipe for for this potatoes, this salad, salad, of of mussels, mussels, potatoes, Francaise. and truffies, trufres, will will be be found found under under SALAD. SALAD. and FRANCOLIN Wild bird bird resembling resembling aa partridge, partridge, found found in in FRANCOLIN -- Wild wann countries, especially in Sicily and Greece. Its flavour warm countries, especially in Sicily and Greece. Ils f1avour is something like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared is something like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared in the same same way. in the way.

-

-

FRANGIPANE Mixture of of flour, flour, egg yolks, butter, egg yolks, butter, and and FRANGIPANE - Mixture milk, which which isis cooked (cream puB) cooked like like aa chou pvfr) pastry. chou (cream milk, paslry. Used in poultry and fish forcemeat. Used in poultry and fish forcemeat. FRANGIPANE CREAM -- Cream Cream used preparation in the the preparation FRANGIPANE CREA.c'\1 used in of different different desserts desserts or or sweets sweets and and cakes, cakes, made made like of like French French pastry uearn (see CREAM). pastry creonl (see CREAM). Ingredients. g. (9 generous 250 oz., cup) sugar, g. 250 g. Ingredients. 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) sugar, 250 (9. o2.,2| c3ns) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs ind 8 egg yolki, (9 oz., 2:\: cups) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs and 8 egg yolks, (2| pints, 3f pints) lf litres pints) milk and flavou-rd If litres (2l pints, :Ji milk boiled boiled and flavoured with with vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz., crrp) butter, vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz., t cup) butter,

i

a pinch

of salt. salt. a pinch of Method. sugar, sieved Melhod. Put Put the the sugar, sieved flour, Hour, and and salt salt into into a a heaw heavy saucepan with a flat bottom. Add the eggs and yolks. Mix saucepan with a flat bottom. Add the eggs and yolks. Mix all the ingredients ail the ingredients thoroughly thoroughly and and add add the the milk milk very very gradugradually.. Cook slowly, stirring all the time, for 2 to 3 minutes. ally. Cook slowly, stirring ail the lime, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the butter and the crushed Add the butter and the crushed macaroons. macaroons. Mix. Mix. FRANKENTAL grape Black also known as FRANKENT AL - Black grape also known as Black Black HamHampurg, and burg, originating originating in in Germany. Germany. The The fruit fruit is is very very large juicy, and is often included in gift baskets of fruit. large and juicy, and is often included in gift baskets of fruit. FRASCATI - See }'RASCATISee RESTAURANTS RESTA URANTS OF OF BycONE BYGONE DAYS. DA YS.

ITREEZINGFREEZING See See PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF FOOD. FRENCH CULINARY FRENCH CULINARY AND AND TABLE TABLE SLANG. SLANG, ARGoT ARGOT

-

DE DE

cuIsINE CUISINE ET ET DE DE TABLE TABLE - Slang, wrote Gaston Esnault Esnault in his his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire historiEte historique des des argots argots frangais français (Larousse) is is 'a

collection collection of of non-technical non-technicaJ spoken words that appeal to to aa social group. The The group group - corporative, corporative, schoolboy, schoolboy, fashionfashionsocial group. able able society society -- is, is, he he specifies, specifies, a more more or or less less coherent one. one, adding, adding, 'Slang 'Slang varies varies from from profession profession to to profession'. profession'. ItIt isis therefore therefore only only right right and and fitting fiuing that that the the culinary culinary proprofession fession should should have have its ils own own brand brand of of slang. slang. The The table table is is la la carante. caran te. Then Then the the food, food, in in other other words words /a la fripe, fripe, la la crofite, croûle, k la briffe, briffe, h la cuistance, cuislance, Ia la bdquetance, béquelance, lala jaffe, jaffe, Ia la graine, graine, la la tortore, IOrtore, la la daronge, dnronge, Ie le frichti frichti arrives. arrives. Everyone Everyone has has tm un estome eSlOme (stomach), (stomach), and and one one has has to to eat eat in in other other words, words, claper, claper, croquer, croquer, tortorer, IOrlOrer, cacher, cacher, grainer, grainer, claboter, claboter, clapoter, clapoter, claquer, claquer, gousser, gousser, morfiler, morfiler, morfier, morfier, to to live. live. And And ifif la la jaffe jaffe isis good good then then on on se se morfale, morfale, on onfircote, fircote, on on se se bigale bégaie (one (one enjoys enjoys

(A LA) -- Garnish FRASCATI FRASCATI (À tA) Garnish for for meat meat dishes dishes with with consists consists of of thin thin slices sUces of/ole of foie gras, gras, asparagus asparagus tips, tips, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and (See GARNISHES.) truffies. trumes. (See GARNISHES.)

FRAUDULENT FRAUDù'LENT MISREPRESENTATION MlSREPRESENTATION OF OF F'OOD. FOOD,

-

Deception Deception in in the the manufacture manufacture and and sale of food products. Fraud occurs when the type and sale of food products. Fraud occurs when the type and origin of the product food origin of the food product does does not not correspond correspond to to the the name name under which it is sold (for example, pdte de foie gras conunder which il is sold (for example, pâte de foie gras containing other than goose or duck liver) or when the quantity taining other than goose or duck liver) or when the quantity goods is not of of goods is not as as specified. specified. (See (See also also ADULTERATION) ADULTERATION.) Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has always been the duty of the authorities to try to uncover it always been the dut y of the authorities to try to uncover it and stamp and stamp itit out. out. When When the the corporations corporations were were in in command command and free trade did not exist, the legislator at that time had no and free trade did not exist, the legislator at that time had no scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to preventive measures. All secret work was forbidden and preventive measures. Ali secret work was forbidden and consequently all night work was forbidden. Itwas forbidden consequently ail night work was forbidden. Il was forbidden to keep to keep aa variety variety of ofproducts products in in the the same same shop. shop. Distinctive Distinctive trademarks and certain symbols were compulsory on manutrademarks and certain symbols were compulsory on manufactured products. factured products. Offenders Offendcrs were were severely severely punished. punished. FRAUDE ALMENTATRE FRAUDE ALIMENTAIRE -

oneself). oneself).

Bread Bread and and wine wine are are placed placed on on the the table table first. firs!. Bread, Bread, or or le le gringue, gringue, I'artifaille, /'artifaille, la la brique, brèque, le le brigetcn, brigetcn, le le brignollet. brignollet. Wine, Wine, or or le le sirop, sirop, lele pivois, pivois, lelejaja, jaja, lelepive, pive, le le tutu, lutu, lele busard, busard, le le picrate, picrate, lele pichtegom. pichtegom. IfIf itit isis aa robust robust red red wine wine itit is is /ele coaltair; coaltair; ififitit isis aa fine fine lightwine, light wine, itit isis lele coulange. coulange. Itlt can can be be rouquin rouquin (red) (red) or or beaujolpif beaujolpif and and will will be be inin aa bottle, boUle, that that isis to to say say Ia la betterave, betterave, la la boutanche, boutanche, lala rouille.If rouille. If itit isis inin litres. litres, itit isis Ielekil kil or or kilo kilo and and on on lelepictera pic/era (it (it will will be be quaffed quaffed with with aa right right good good will). will). IfIfititisisaa bottle botlleof ofchamp champ(Champagne) (Champagne)itit becomes becomes aa roteuEe.It rOleuse. lt isis drunk drunk nin un unguindal, guindai, tm un bennard bennardor or tm unglasse. glasse. The The appetite appetite begins begins with with I'apdro l'apéro (the (the alfa alfa of ofthe the good good old old days I'alfa being days has has gone go ne--l'alfa being the the absinth absinth (la (la verte\ ver le) of oflalaBelle Belle Epoque). Epoque). From From /a la bouillante bouillante (soup) (soup) we we move move on on to to lala 392 392

FRENCH FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY NAMES NAMES Cond6 certain preparations preparati.ons by by tu certain Condé (A (À ta) la) -- Name N ame given to Feuillet, Condé household household during during the the Feuillet. master mas ter chef chef of o!' the Conde

barbaque or or bidoche, bidoche, le le saciflard saciflard (saucisson), (saucisson), also also called called du du barbaque bits, then then came les les navarins navarins (turnips), (turnips), les les loubiats loubiats (haricot (haricot Dils, beans), then then le le calendo calendo (Camembert) (Camembert) which which is is rm un rAme l'ème beans), (cheese), (cheese), then then le le caowt caoua (coffee) (coffee) which, which, being being black, black, can can also also biffi. At At last last itit isis time bme for for la la consolante, consolante, aa bottle bottle of of be called called biffi. be wine drunk drunk before before leaving leaving (or (or after after the the coup coup de feu). (Slang (Slang wine

restaurant chefs chefs around around 1910. 1910. Taken used by by restaurant used Dictionnaire of of Gaston Gaston Esnault). Esnault). Dictionnaire

Restoration. Restora tion. Conti Conti (A (À h) la) - Name Na'11e given to to several several recipes recipes created created by by the of the the Prince Prince of Conti. Conti. the chefs chefs of But But itit was was the the Princess Princess of of Conti Conti who whc 'invented' 'invented' the the loin loin of of mutton mutton that that bears bears her her name, name, the the famous famous loin loin gourmande gourmandé mentioned de de persil (gourmandised (gourmandised with with parsley) parsley) that that is is mentioned in in le le Bourgeois Kn:lJrC,pnl~ gentilhomme. ,f?,em'lIfl'onlme. Cussy (A ta) - Louis Louis de de Cussy, Cussy, one one of of the the wittiest wittiest gourmets a""rlYlp!C of of the the early early nineteenth nineteenth century century was was prefect prefect of of the palace palace under under Napoleon Napoleon I. 1. and and the the chef chef dedicated dedicated some sorne recipes recipes to to him. him. Duroc la) - V6ry, Véry, who who owed owed much much in in his bis early days days to to Duroc (A ta) . . to the the protection protection of of Marshal Marshal Duroc Duroc and and .... to the love love of of few dedicate a Madame Madame V6ry, Véry, could could hardly hardJy do do less Jess than than dedicate a few recipes to :0 his his benefactor. benefactor. C6sar owe this ta) -- We Frangipane (A l sauce SA UCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Cxnied Curried tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTEs TARTELETTES A À I'tNplENNn L'iNDIENNE -- Fill Fill with with aa prawn ragofrt made with with cuffy. Put Put I1 teaspoon tcaspoon Rice Rice dà I'inl'inragoût made dienru (see RICE) on on each each tartlet. (sec RICE) Tartlets ià l'6coss8ise. l'écossaise. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES A À r'fcosslts L'ÉCOSSAISE - GarGarnish nish with with Salmon Salmon purie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Cover with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated cheese, cheese, and and brown. brown. Put Put aa piece of of sliced sliced truffie trurne on on each tartlet. tartlet. Tartlets ià la la japonaise. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES A Â r"l LA r.lpopusn JAPONAISE -- Fill Fil) with with Chinese Ch.inese artichdkes with with cream. cream. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried through in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Warm Wannthrough in the the oven. oven. Metternich Mertemicb tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES METTERNIcS METTERNICH - Garnish Garnish with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads sweelbreads and and truffies truffles seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Put Put aa small small slice slice of of calf's calf's brain brain on on each each tartlet. tartlet. wth Hungariot Cover Cover with Hungarian. sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Tartlets Tartlets ià la la mirepoil. mirepoix. rlnrsrsmns TARTELETTES A Â r,l LA unspox MIREPOIX - Fill Fil! with wÎth aa mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables cooked cooked in in butter butter with with aa salpicon salpicon of ham harn blended blended with rich rich veal veal gravy. Cover Cover with with (see FORCEMEATS). a a thin thin layer layer of of Chicken Chicken forcemeat forcemea/ (sec Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. TARTELETTEs PRINTANIA Printania Printania tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES PRINTANlA - Fill Fill with with Sprinkle with cream. Sprinkle morels in in cream. with fried fried breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Warm Wann and then through through in in the the oven oven and then put put I1 teaspoon teaspooD asparagus asparagus tips tips tartlet. cooked cooked in butter butter on on each each tartlet. with aa salpicon salpicon Fill with nfcIN,c. -- Fi!! TARTELETTEs RÉGINA Regina tarttets. tliIrtlets. TARTELEl"TES Sprinkle with with cream. cream. Sprinkle and truffies of mushrooms and of truffies with with fried fried put aa and then then put oven and through in breadcrumbs. Warm Warm through in the the oven each on each in butter saut6ed in of sweetbread sweetbread sautéed slice of very small small slice butter on very tartlet. tart/et.

(see

mix. mile. Finish Finish the the subrics subrics in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Semolina Semoli.na subrics. subrics. sLJBRIcs SUBRICS DE Dr; sEMouLE SEMOULE -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Rice Rice subrics subrics d à Ia la piimonlaise, pîémonlaise, using using semolina semolina cooked cooked in in aa clear stock or or in in milk. milk. Omit Omit the the chopped chopped ham, ham, ifif desired. d~ired. cJear stock Sweetbread Sweetbread srbrics. subrics. suBRIcs SUBRICS DE DE RIs RlS DE DE vEAU, VEAU, D'AGNEAU n'AGNEAU -Proceed Proceed as as described described for for Brain Brain subrics, subrics, using using aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Talnouse Talmouse -- This This can be he made made in many many different different ways ways but but itit should always always have have cheese checs.e as a basis. basis. Line tartlel tins tins with with Fine Fine linW lining paste(see pasle (see DOUGH) DOUGB) Line fluted fluted tartlet and and fill fil! with whatever whatever cheese chccse preparation preparation is is given given in in the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Brush with with egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with Gruydre Gruyère cheese, cheese. dîce, and and bake bake in a slow oven. oven. Take tbe the talmouses out oui of of the the dice, tins. tins. Talmouses which which have Gougire Gougère batter baller (see (sec DOUGH) DOUGH) as aa basis basis are often filled fùled with with a cream cheese cheese mixture after after they are cooked. Talmouses Talmouses A à I'ancienne J'ancienne - Roll RoU out out some sorne left-over puff puff pastry to ta a thickness of 5 mm. (+ inch). Cut into squares of of 6 cm. cm. (2t (21· inches). inches). Coat with a thin layer of the mixture ml."l~''''' nrp"-,,rll,cl\J brought to the boil and crulled. chilled. Pour over the fruit and serve chilled.

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KANGAROO. KANGOUROU r,c,NcouRou flesh of of Ihis this Australian The flesh KANGAROO. - The mammal is soup îs is aa delicacy delicacy in Kangaroo tail in is edible. edible. Kangaroo mammal tai! soup Germany. It is also sold commercially. commercially. Gerrnany.

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KAcUE -- Russian dish of cooked KASHA (Russian cookery). KACHE buckwheat. There are several ways of preparing it. (l lb.) buckwheat, I teaspoon salt,25 g. Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (lIb.) (l oz., o2.,22 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. (1 to pick out any black grains. -- these 1. l. Sort the buckwheat ta people tind find un~ unwhich people husk which still covered with the hard husk are are stijl covered wilh pan without grease glease or liquid, until until sightly. Cook in aa frying pan grains acquire aa Iight colour. Put Înto into an an ovenlight golden colom. the grains just proof dish. dish, season with salt, add add the butter, and pour in just Bake in aa slow slow oven oven for 2j to to cover. Sake enough enough boiling water to caver. grains should should fall the grains It will have have aa thin crust but but the hours. It 3 hours. apart easily. easily put the in aa the buckwheat buckwheat in 2. Using same proportions, put Using the the same cover with cold cold saucepan, add add salt and melted butter, cover double saucepao, for J3 hours. rryater, stir, and cook OD on aa low heat for water, pour and pour with boiling water and scald wilh 3. Wash the buckwheat, scald cover with salt salt and and butter, butter, cover liquid. Put in aa seucepan witb off off the the liquid, Put in boil, stir, stir, and and transfer with boiling water, bring again to the boil, hours. for 33 hours. into aa double double saucepan. saucepan. Cook for iota (l lb.) g. (1 KAcITE -- Soak 500 g. lb.) DE KACHE Soak 500 Kasha croûtons. cro0tons. CROÛTONS cRo0roNs DE until itit forrns forms aa thick thick warm water water un\il crushed crushed buckwheat buckwheat in in warrn put itit in in aa large earthenware earthenware porridge. Season with salt salt and and put porridge. Season wirb pot.

I

2t

See CHEESE. CHEESE. KAUNAS -- See

(furki$ cookery) -- Name Turkey for for Name used used in in Turkey KEBAB (Turkish KEBAB is skewered skewered meat. feature is dishes whose whose principal feature various dishes s23 523

KEFIR KÉFIR (i pint, scant and 4 dl. seant 2 cups) Continue simmering simmering dl. (! cups) vinegar. Continue for for 15 15 to 20 minutes or until untiJ the sauce is is thickened to the

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metal or wood. wood, The The meat - mutton, The skewers are are of metal lamb or buffalo buffalo -- is cut into squares, seasoned with pepper, pepper, salt, thyme thyme and and powdered powdered bay bay leaves. leaves, Square pieces pieces of salt, skewer between mutton fat on the skewer fat are placed on between the pieces pieces of meaL In ln Turkey, mutton fat fat takes the place of bacon. The meat. served plain, skewered skewered meat is grilled grilled over hot embers, and is served plain, with lemon or with various various garnishes. garnishes. cALETTE Kebab galette. galette. KEBAB EN GALETTE - Cut into thick squares aa boned boned shoulder of lamb. lamb, Steep the the pieces in in milk, milk, and place them them on skewers with squares squares of of green pepper, pepper, tomato, tomato, onion and and bay bay leaves leaves between. between, Sprinkle with with powdered onion embers. thyme. Grill over hot embers. on a Take Take the the pieces pieces off off the the skewers. skewers, Arrange Arrange them them on (q.v.) (thin cake) made of galette ga/elle (q,v,) of wheaten wheaten flour. fiouL Cover with finely chopped chopped onions onions previously previously browned in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten another wheaten wheaten galette, gale/le, with brown stock and cover with another which should be be piping hot. Shish-kebab, which which is is the the Turkish Turkish name name for for skewered skewered Shish-kebab, mutton mut ton cooked in this this way, is also served served with pilaf pilaf of of rice or with chick chiek peas peas and raw finely finely sliced onions. onions, spit some on an Tchevir me me kebab - Place on an upright spit sorne thin slices of of mutton, mutton. alternating alternating with pieces of mutton fat. faL This spit turns tu rus itself itself in front of of an upright grill. grilL As the meat meat is cooked the pieces pieces are slit sIit lengthwise, taken off the spit spi! one after after another, another, and served with yogurt, pilaf pilaf off ofrice, of riee, etc. etc,

desired point. Seal in hot sterilised sterilised jars or bottles. bottles, desired KETMIE KETMIE-

and known as Plant, the fruit of which is edible and (See OKRA.) okra, gumbo or ladies'fingers. ladies' fingers. (Sec OKRA,) okra, KHLODNIK (Polish (polish and and KIILODNIK

--

It is made as follows: Wash and and blanch4large blanch 4 large handfuls hand fuIs of of tender tender beetroot beetroot leaves. leaves, Wash Chop finely. finely, Add Add to to these these aa handful handful of of finely finely chopped, Chop and drained drained chervil, tarragon, tarragon, chive, fennel and blanched and shallot. embedded in chopped ice, and herbs in a a dish embedded Put these herbs (scant pint, moisten moisten them them with t litre litre (seant pint, Zf, 2i- cups) cucumber brine, Add Add the the same sa me amount of kvass (q.v.), (q,v,), a drink very brine. popular in serving, season io Russia. Russia. Just before serving, season the soup with following garnishes: garnishes: salt and a pinch of fine sugar. Add the following erayfish tails, 500 500 g. (l (1 lb.) diced, diced, braised sturgeon, sturgeon, 4 or 55 48 crayfish tablespoons diced, diced, fresh fresh cucumber. Add Add 3 dl. dl. (+ (} pint, pint, licups) sieved sour cream and I1 or 2 pieces of ice. ice, Serve with quarterod quartered hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs sprinkled sprinkled with with finely chopped chervil chervil and fennel. fenneL

f

l|

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KID. KID,

cHsvREAU, CHEVREAU, cABRr CABRI - Young goat, goat, slaughtered slaughtered before The meat beingweaned. being weaned, The meat of of the kid is notvery not very substantial substantial but it is not unwholesome, as some sorne people people believe. believe. In 10 French French butchery butchery sucking kids thirty thirly to forty fort y days old are called titards, têtards, the other, three or four months months old, are called ca lied broutards. broutards, All Ail the methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for very young lamb are applicable applicable to kid kid (see (see LAMB). LAMB), As As the the meat is is rather rather tasteless it has to be well weil seasoned. seasoned, The roast roast kid kid of Israel perfumes perfumes the the pages pages of the the Bible Bible with its appetising aroma. It Il is the roast of of patriarchs patriarchs and kings. To this day, the bedouin bedouin in his tent solemnly 'stews' 'stews' his kid on festive occasions; and in Cambodia Cambodia and Burrra, Durma, the kid is the traditional dish for engagement engagement celebrations. celebrations, In ln the the Middle Ages, it it held he Id its own among quarters of venison and heads ofboar, of boar, dressd dressed herons herons and white white swans. swans, Even Even at at the time of the the kings kiogs of Navarre, the kid kid of the Pyr6n6es Pyrénées was considered the chief attraction of the Easter Easter feasts. And the gallant gallant B6arnais Béarnais who was to become become Henry IV IV had occasion occasion more more than th an once once to to wash down down the the Easter Easter kid with a fine fine Jurangon Jurançon wine.

Fermented milk of Caucasian origin. origin. Strictly it it should be made of camels' milk but, in practice, it is made made from from cows' cows' milko milk, skimmed skimrned or or not, not, according according to to taste. tas te. Fermentation Fermentation is induced by means of of kifir kéfir bacteria. bacteria. When the bacteria bacteria have been added added to the milk it is put put in bottles bottles with patent patent stoppers stoppers and kept for a period in a hot cupboard. cupboard. After a day, mild kifir kéfir is obtained. obtained, This This is slightly laxative. After After two two days, days, mediun medium kifir kéftr is is obtained, obtained, which wbich is is not laxative. Strong Strongkifir kéfir is obtained obtained after after three three days of of fermentafermentation. It Il is is slightly constipating and and contains contains 2'5 2·5 per cent alcohol. alcohoL Kifir Kéfir has a a rather sour taste. tas te, It lt is frothy and contains a greater alcohol according greater or or lesser lesser proportion proportion of alcohol according to to the period period of of fermentation. fermentation, The casein casein shows signs sigos of peptipeptinisation in the form of thin flakes. flakes, Kifir Kéfir is easily easily digestible and is often recommended for invalids. invalids.

KEFIR KÉFIR

Rllssian cookery). cookery). KoLoDNIK KOLODNlK Russian

Iced soup, popular in Poland, its country country or origin, and soup, very popular Russia, in Russia.

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KEFTESKEBABS KEITES-KE8ABS (furkish (Turkish cookery) -- Made Made from from small small

raw meat ofraw meat (mutton, (mutton, veal or or buffalo), buffalo), skewered, skewered, grilled slices of slices and served with pilaf pilaf of of rice and the the juices juices of of roast meat. meaL

KIDNEYS. KIDNEYS, RocNoNs ROGNONS

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- Pigs' Pigs' and and sheep's kidneys kidneys are are the shape of a haricot (shell) bean; bean; calves' and ox kidneys are

KETCHUP KETCHIJP or CATSUP CATSUP - Ketchup is a condiment condiment rather rather than a a sauce in the the proper proper sense of the word. It Il is manumanu-

multi-Iobed. multi-lobed.

factured commercially North commereially and much much used used in England and North America. America, It Il is also made made in home home kitchens. kitchens, Mushroom Mushroom ketchup or or catsrp. catsup. KETcHIIn KETCHUP Ar.rx AUX cHAMprcCHAMPIGjar layers NoNs NONS -- Put in a salting saltingjar layers of of fresh sliced mushrooms mushroomsabout about t1 cm. cm, (* (t inch) deepdeep - and sprinkle sprinkle each each layer layer with table salt, salt, pepper pepper and allspice. allspice, Leave Leave the the mushrooms mushrooms in the salt for 5 or 6 days in a cool cool place. place, Press to extract all ail the the juice. juice. Boil this juice. juice, Season Season with with pepper, pepper, thyme, thyme, bay, bay, ginger, ginger, marjoram marjoram and and a a little tomato tomato paste. paste, Leave Leave to cool. cooL Filter Filter and bottle. bottle, Tonato Tomato ketchup. KErcHr.Jp KETCHUP Ar.lx AUX roMArEs TOMATES'up 3i 31 kg. kg. - Cut up (8 lb.) lb,) unpeeled unpeeled tomatoes, 6 medium medium onions, onions, 2 sweet sweel red red peppers and 2 garlic peppers and garlic cloves. cloves, Cover with water water and and boil boil gently until unti] the vegetables vegetables are 3oft. soft. Strain through a sieve. sieve. Tie Tie in a bag bag Il red pepper,2 pepper, 2 bay bay leaves, leaves, I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped celery, I] tablespoon L1.blespoon mustard mustard seeds, I1 teaspoon teaspoon peppercorns peppercorns and I1 stick cinnamon, cinnamon, and add this, tbis, with I1 tablespoon salt, salt, juice. Boil to thejuice. Boil down down by by half, half, stirring stirring frequently. frequently. Add 100 100 g. g, to the (4 oz., *t cup) brown brown sugar, 100 100 g. (a (4 oz., oz.,! cup) white sugar sugar cup) white

sought-after Calves' and lambs' kidneys are delicate and sought-after foodstuffs. foodstuffs. Pigs' Pigs' kidneys, a little richer richer and with a sweetish sweetish weil thought of. Ox and sheep's kidneys kidneys are tas te, are less well taste, tough lough and often taste taste of of urine. kidneys. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE coe COQ - These are used mainly Cocks' kidneys. as as an an ingredient ingredient in garnishes, but they may also be used, used, various ways, ways, as hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre ot or small entrdes, entrées, cooked in various in in the same sa me way as cocks'combs cocks' combs (q.v.). (q,v.). To prepare a garnish, wash -..rash firm, white white cocks'kidneys cocks' kidneys in several waters. waters. Put them into a small saucepan saucepan with water, a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, a little little butter butter and and a few drops of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Star! cooking over a a good good heat. hea!. As soon as as the the liquid Start begins to boil boil turn the heat heat very low and cook, cook, covered, for begins l0 10 to 12 minutes, minutes, taking ta king care to avoid boiling. boiling. Use Use according according to ta the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Kidneys Kidneys saut6ed sautéed with with Madeira. Madeira. RocNoNs ROGNONS slur6s SAUTÉS e,u AU rrl.q,oinr kidneys sliced sliced and and sautEod sautéed in MADÈRE - Calves' or lambs' kidneys butter. Madeira Madeira is is poured poured into ioto the cooking pan pan and and this this butter. sauce is diluted with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE.) SAUCE,) sauce

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s24 524

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

( Scarnati) Preparing kidneys kidneyson skewer(Scarnali) onaaskewer Preparing

KILKIS or or NORWEGIAN NORWEGIAN ANCHOVIES ANCHOVIES -- Tiny Tiny fish fish found found KILKIS mainly in in northern northern European waters. preserved like waters. It It isis preserved like the the mainly anchovy and and is is very very weil well liked liked in in Russia. Russia. ItIt isis served served as as an an anchovy (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, hors-d'euvre (see HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre). hors-d'euvre). hors-d'œuvre

generally use The Jews The Jews did did not not generally use earthenware earthenware vessels vesselsfor for purposes; most cooking purposes; potsand cooking panswere most of of their their pots and pans were made made of of metal. To To extract meta!. extract the pots in the meat meat from from the the big big pots in which whichfood food destined to destined to be prepared, they be offered offered to to God God was was prepared, they used usedaabig big two-pronged fork, two-pronged fork, the the forerunner forerunner of of our our table table fork, fork, which which did not not make did make its its appearance appearance until until the the seventeenth seventeenth century. century. The Greeks, The Greeks, for preparations, used for their their culinary culinary preparations, greatly used greatly improved ver vessels. improved bronze, bronze, iron iron or or sil silver vessels. They They also also had hadsorne some in in earthenware. earthenware. Almost Almost ail all these these vessels vessels were were conical conical inin shape shape and and therefore therefore not not very very deep. provided with deep. They They were were provided with lids, lids, and and either either handles handles or or detachable detachable r-ings. rings. Among principal kitchen Among the the principal kitchar utensils utensils used used by by the the Greeks Greeks was was the the chytra, chytra, aa kind pan used kind of of earthenware earthenware pan used for for cooking cooking meats meats and and stews. stews. It It was was apparently apparently in in these these utensils utensils that that the the famous famous Spartan prepared. Or Spartan broths broths were were prepared. perhaps this Or perhaps this historical historical dish dish was was made made in in the the kakkabi, kakkabi, aa fairly fairly large large threethreelegged pot. The legged pot. The Greeks Greeks also pot, which also had had another another pot, which can can be be considered prototype of considered as as the the prototype of the the earthenware earthenware casserole casserole which which we we use use nowadays nowadays for pot-au-feu. This, for the the pot-au-feu. This, filled filled with with cooked (probably cooked cooked fruit fruit (probably cooked in in wine wine and and sweetened sweetened with with honey) honey) was was carried god, Bacchus, carried to to the the altar altar of of the the god, Bacchus, on on the the third third day day of of the the feast feast of of Anthesteria, the the famous famous festival festival in in honour of of Dionysus. The The Greeks Greeks also also had had bronze bronze casseroles casseroles which which resembled resembled those now in in use. use. For For cooking cooking meat meat and pieces they and fish fish cut cut in in pieces they had aa pan similar similar to the the type type which in France today in France today isis called called coupe coupe lyonnaise, lyonnaise, and and which which the the Greeks Greeks called called teganon. teganon. In In order to place al! all these these metal metal or or earthenware earthenware receptac1es receptacles on on the fire, fire, the the Greeks Greeks used used aa triangular support, support, the the tripod, tripod, that is is still in use use in country kitchens. Kitchen Kitchen utensils utensils used used by by the Romans were the Romans were similar similar to to those those of the the Greeks. Greeks. It It isis also also aa known known fact fact that that Greek Greek cooks cooks brought the brought the art of cooking to to Rome. Rome. The The Romans, Romans, who who were were sensual, voluptuous voluptuous people, with aa great great love love of of luxury luxury in in ail all things, made made kitchen utensils utensils not not only only of of bronze bronze but but also also of of silver. Among the the treasures treasures of of Bosco-Reale, Bosco-Reale, which which are are kept kept in the the Louvre, various various kitchen kitchen utensils utensils of of this this type type can can be be seen. Kitchen utensils utensils used used by seen. Kitchen by the the Romans Romans inc1uded included the the c/ibanus, an earthenware utensil utensil with clibanus, an earthenware pierced in with holes holes pierced in it, it, used used for cooking various for various dishes, pastry, in dishes, mainly mainly pastry, in hot hot ashes; ashes; craticula, aa grill for meat and craticula, for cooking meat and fish fish on glowing on the the glowing and the the apala, embers; and apala, aa dish dish with with cavities cavities of varying sizes of varying sizes hollowed out, out, which which was was used used for hollowed for cooking cooking eggs. eggs. Gauls and and the the Gallo-Romans The Gauls Gallo-Romans had had earthenware earthenware and and metal kitchen utensils utensils somewhat somewhat similar metal similar to to those those of of the the Greeks and the Romans. The Celts knew nothing of Greeks and the Romans. The Celts knew nothing of the the

(furkish and KIMALI BUREK BUREK (furkish and Russiao Russian cookery). cookery). KI KTMALT KIMALI MALI BEURREcK -- Stuffed Stuffed pancake rolled rollod into the the shape of aa cigar, shape of cigar, BEURRECK filled with with forcemeat forcemeat or or sorne some other (See other filling, filling, and and fried. fried. (See filled HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, Beurrecksà Beuruecks d la la turque.) turque.) HORS-D'ŒUVRE, KINGFISH. TASSARD TASsARD --Large in ail all oceans. oceans. There There KINGFISH. Large fish found in species. The The flesh flesh is firm and and white is firm white and and itit are many different species. as tunny fish. fish. is prepared prepared in the same way as

KIPPER -- These, These, strictly strictly called called kippered kippered herrings, herrings, are are KIPPER and smoked. smoked. herrings which are slit open and Kippers are very good good to eat. They are usually grilled grilled and Kippers and (see served with butter or or Maître Matte d'hôtel served with melted melted butter d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). They can butters). They can also also be BUTTER, Compound be boiled. (See (See HERRINGS.) HERRINGS.)

KIRSCH Spirit with with aa very very strong strong bouquet, KIRSCH -- Spirit bouquet, chiefly

manufactured and in Germany. The finest manufactured in easten France and finest kirsch comes cornes from Alsace. Alsace. Black Black Forest kirsch kirsch also also enjoys great reputation. a is distilled from from fermented ripe a great reputation. It is ripe wild cherries. cherries.

Kirsch is highly prized pize.d by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. It is used great used aa great deal for flavouring flavouring in confectionery confectionery and pâtisserie. and pdtisserie.

KISEL. KIssEL KISSEL - Russian dessert made from from ail kinds of all kinds berries. berries. It It is served served in in aa charlotte charlotte mould with with thick thick cream and can can be be eaten either hot or cold. KISSING CRUST.

-

BArsuRE BAISURE -

Bakery term describing the

pale pale soft soft crust crust where where one loaf loaf has has touched another in baking. baking.

KITCHEN KITCHEN EQUIPMENT. EQUIPMENT. nlrrmrE BATTERIE DE cursrNE CUISINE- This term

covers covers all ail the the utensils utensils used used in the the kitchen kitchen for the preparation preparation and and cooking cooking of food. The utensils, of various various shapes, are made made of of copper copper or or other other metals metals such su ch as as nickel, nickel, aluminium or

bimetals, bimetals, silver-plated silver-plated copper, copper, iron, cast-iron, cast-iron, bronze, sheetsheetiron, iron, wrought-iron, wrought-iron, etc., etc., of of special fireproof fireproof earthenware or china, china, or or of of hardened hardened glass glass which which is is also fireproof. fireproof. We We know know very very little little about about the the first fust kitchen kitchen utensils. The Egyptians, the the Assyrians Assyrians and and the the Persians Persians principally principally used used Egyptians, earthenware and and bronze bronze vessels, vessels, big-bellied big-bellied in shape, shape, with earthenware and and without without handles. handles. They They also also used used the the spit and, for cookcooking cakes cakes and and biscuits, biscuits, they they had had baking baking dishes dishes rather rather like ing those we we use use nowadays. nowadays. those

525 525

KITCHEN KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT

Water cxcavations at Pompeii provided Water beaters heaters found found in iD the excavations provided

with pipes pipes to make make the the best best possible possible use use ofthe of the heat heat from the sa me as for the fueplace; fireplace; the principle principle is the same perfectioned our our most most perfectioned tubular tubular boilers boilers

refinements refinements of of the the sumptuous sumptuous cookery cookery of of Imperial Imperial Rome Rome and their their pots pots and and pans pans were were rudimentary. rudimentary. With the coming coming of the the Merovingian Merovingian era, era, kitchen kitchen utensils utensils began began again again to to improve. improve. Some Sorne specimens specimens of of these these have have survived, survived, and and we we can see in museurns museums the the magnificent magnificent bronze bronze vessels vessels in in which which the the food food was was prepared. prepared. From From reading reading Charlemagne's Charlemagne's Capitularies, Capitu/aries, it it seems seems evident evident that that in in succeeding succeeding centuries centuries French French kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were were improved improved still still further. further. After After the the Crusades Crusades a great great number number of of richly richly worked worked metal metal utensils utensils -- ewers, ewers, salvers, salvers, cauldrons cauldrons -- were were brought brought to to Europe Europe and and served served as as models models for for the the artisans artisans of ofthe the West West in in the the manufacture manufacture of ofmagnificent magnificent utensils. utensils. In In French French museums museums and and private private collections collections can can be be seen, seen, for for example, example, cooking cooking pots pots in in engraved engraved bronze bronze or or artistically artistically beaten beaten copper; copper; wrought-iron wrought-iron pot-hangers, pot-hangers, which which are are veritveritable able works works of of art; art; kitchen kitchen forks, forks, which which in in those those days days were were called called roables; roab/es; turning turninggridirons gridirons;; big-bellied big-bellied pots pots and and kettles kettles;; the acoste-pot (old (old version version of of the the accote-pot,'tilt-pot'), accote-pot, 'tilt-pot'), and and the acoste-por other other kitchen kitchen implements implements which which are are all aIl excellent excellent examples examples of of ironmongery. ironmongery. To To show show what what aa collection collection of of kitchen kitchen utensils utensils in in the the sixteenth-century sixteenth-century manor manor house hou se was was like, like, we we reproduce reproduce an an extract extract from from an an inventory inventory made made in in 1530 1530 at at the the chiteau château of of La La Mothe-Chandenier: Mothe-Chandenier:

'One wooden press for pressing pressing capons; 'Two iron spoons; spoons; 'One 'One small skimmer; skimmer; 'One round bronze bronze pan pan with a long handle for cooking cooking fish; 'Two 'Two old dripping dripping pans; pans; 'One 'One small smal! metal metal mortar mortar and and pestle; pestle; 'Three iron iron frying pans pans with with long long handles; handles; 'Three 'A table table on on two two trestles; trestles; 'A 'One 'One old bench bench with with bar bar back; back; 'One 'One cupboard cupboard with with two two glass glass doors, which which can can be be locked with aa key; key; with 'Another old cupboard, for keeprng keeping plates and and dishes, 'Another with two two glass glass doors, doors, which which can can be be locked locked with with a key; key; with 'Six big big copper copper candlesticks; candlesticks; 'Six 'Six 'Six other other medium-sized medium-sized candlesticks candlesticks;; 'One deep deep copper copper basin basin for for washing washing hands; hands; 'One 'Two deep deep bronze bronze candlesticks, candlesticks, in in the the shape shape of of aa cup; 'Two 'In the the larder larder near near the the said said kitchen: kitchen : 'In 'Three long long shelves, shelves, but but there there was was no no meat meat there there except except for for 'Three one piglet, piglet, which which was was kept kept for for the the Master Master in in case case he he wanted wanted one while he he was was here. here. itit while 'The following following bottle-ware bottle-ware:: 'The 'Barrel of of Gascony Gascony wine; wine; 'Barrel 'Pitcher with with aa spout; spout; 'Pitcher 'Half-litre mugs; mugs; 'Half-litre 'One stone stone mustard mustard pot, pot, for for making making mustard, mustard, etc.; etc.; 'One 'One small small table table for for making making pastry.' pastry.' 'One

'In 'In the the kitchen kitchen of ofthe the aforesaid aforesaid ch0teau château of ofla la Mothe Mothe:: '18 '18 silver silver dishes dishes and and 18 18 escuelles escuelles (mediaeval (mediaeval version version of of icuelle écuelle -- bowl) bowl) bearing bearing the the coat coat of of arms arms which which the the late late Master Master and and the the late late Lady Lady brought brought with with fhem them from from Javarzay Javarzay when when they theycame camehere here to to the the chdteau château of ofla la Mothe. Mothe. 'The 'The following following utensils utensils were were found found in in the the said said kitchen: kitchen: 'Six 'Six large large dishes, dishes, three three small, small, and and ten ten bowls, bowls, all aIl utensils utensils engraved engravedwith withthe thelate lateMaster's Master'scoat coatof ofarms; arms; 'One 'Onepot-hanger; pot-hanger; 'Two 'Twobeaten-iron beaten-iron cookers; cookers; 'One 'Onebig bigiron iron spit; spit; 'Then 'Then two two more more smaller smaller spits; spits; 'One 'Oneiron iron fish fish slice, slice, one onegrid; grid ; 'Item, 'Item, one onebig bigcooking cooking pot; pot; 'Item, 'Item,one onebig bigcast-iron cast-ironpot potwith withperforations; perforations; 'Item, another another iron iron pot pot of ofone one seilie sei/ée (a (a measure measure of ofcapacapa'Item, city); city) ; 'Item, three seillies, 'Item, two twobig bigcauldrons cauldronsof ofthree seillées, without without rims; rims; 'Item, 'Item, another anothercauldron, cauldron,ofoftwo twoseillies; sei/fées; 'Item, 'Item, another, another,ofofone oneseillie; sei/fée; 'Item, 'Item, two two small smallcauldrons cauldronsofofhalf halfseillies; seillées; 'Item, two two big big round round bronze bronze pans pans of ofabout about fotn four seillies sei/fées 'Item, each; each; 'Item,plus plusanother anotherround roundpan panofoftwo twoseillies sei/fées(with (withaapiece piece ' Item, broken brokenoff: off;

Our ancestors ancestors used used many many other other utensils utensils in in addition addition to to Our those mentioned mentioned in in the the inventory inventory quoted quoted above. above. those They had, had, among among others, others, the the horsehair horsehair sieve sieve or or tammy, tammy, They which, itit isis said, said, was was invented invented by by the the Gauls. Gauls. The The following following which, utensils were were also also in in use: use: the the couloir, couloir, aa large large strainer strainer with with aa utensils handle which which was was used used for for draining draining foods; foods; the the rastels raste/s or or handle raste/rier, iron iron hooks hooks on on which which food food was was hung; hung; pots pots and and rastelrier, kettles of ofall al! sizes; sizes; tartiires tartièresOaking (bakingtins); tins); skillets, skillets, saucepans, saucepans, kettles frying pans, pans, etc.; etc.; the thefiral féra/ -- aa large large metal metal vessel vessel used used as as aa frying watercontainer; container; the theDecdasne, becdasne, aa pot pot with with aa handle handle and and aa long long water curved spout; spout; funnels, funnels, mostly mostly in in copper; copper; the the esmieure, esmieure, aa curved grater used used for for grating grating nutmeg nutmeg and and cheese. cheese. Nutmeg Nutmeg was was grater greatly valued valued in in those those days, days, as as we we know. know. 'Do 'Do you you like like greatly nutmeg? They They put put itit in in everything,' everything,' Boileau Boileau was was to to write write aa nuheg? few hundred hundred years years later. later. few In the the kitchens kitchens of of those those times times they they also also used used gridirons, gridirons, In mortars; spice-grinders; spice-grinders; various various ladles ladies which which were were called called mortars; pot/ouches and and poches; poches; minchoirs, minchoirs, long-bladed long-bladed knives knives used used potlouches for slicing slicing pork pork fat fat into into rashers; rashers; mincers mincers and and various various other other for utensilswhich whichare arestill stillininuse useininthe thepresent presentday. day. utensils Tin plating plating of ofpots pots and and pans pans was was already already known known at at that that Tin time. In In the the Homeric Homeric era era tin, tin, along along with with silver, silver, gold gold and and time.

526 s26

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN The kitchen kitchen in in many many modern modern homes homes isis the the centre of family family centre of The living, especially especially in in the the ever increasing number ever increasing number of of areas areas where where living, domestic service service does not exist. does not exist. This This means means that that the the kitchen domestic kitchen must be be an an attractive attractive room room to to be be in, in, as as weil well as as an an efficient must efficient place in produce meals. in which which to to produce meals. Such Such aa room room in in many many cases place cases irtcludes aa dining dining area, area, either either aa table table or or counter counter space. space. The The includes basic requirements, requirements, the the stove stove and and the the refrigerator, refrigerator, are basic are dedefor appearance signed for appearance as as weil well as as usefulness, usefulness, but but besides besides these signed these appliances there there are are many many others others designed designed for for home home use use appliances which make preparation of make the the preparation of food food not not only only easy easy but but which enjoyable. Included Included in in an an ever ever expanding expanding list list of of such such enjoyable. appliances are are electric electric beaters, beaters, electric electric blenders for chopping, blenders for chopping, appliances pulverising and pur6eing, pressure pressure cookers, and puréeing, cookers, machines machines for for pulverising slicing and and shredding shredding vegetables, vegetables, rôtisseries, r6tisseries, thermostatithermostatislicing pans, waste cally controlled controlled frying frying pans, waste disposai disposal units, units, automatic automatic cally dish washers washers and and home home freezers. freezers. But But ail all this this equipment equipment does dish does not assure good food. assure good food. On the contrary, gourmets agree On the contrary, gourmets agree that that not much in in texture texture and and flavour flavour can can be sacrificed to be sacrificed to the the speed speed and and much efficiency of of many many of of the modern gadgets. One modern gadgets. One must must retain retain aa efficiency proportion. sense of of proportion. sense Kitchens in in small small restaurants restaurants and and inns inns are are usually usually an Kitchens elaboration of of aa domestic domestic kitchen, kitchen, but but the the modern kitchen kitchen elaboration designed for for large large hotels, hotels, restaurants restaurants and institutions may and institutions designed be compared compared to to aa factory. factory. Here the the utensils are tools of utensils are of the be trade and and are are built on on aa large large scale scale and and of sturdy sturdy materials. The kitchen kitchen isis divided divided into into many many departments, each each of of The head chef and assistants. There may be departwhich has its head ments for baked goods, goods, soups, roasts, fish, fish, salads salads and and horsments d'euvre, vegetables, vegetables, desserts, desserts, beverages. In In sorne some kit kitchens d'œuvre, chens subdivided; in others they are these departments are further subdivided; All these departments are under the direction direction of a combined. Ali or head head chef chef who who is responsible for is responsible for the the whole manager or operation. On his staff there are usually one one or more dietioperation. plan the menus. tians to Trained kitchen menus. Trained kitchen engineers design tians to plan types and and specifications, but but each must kitchens of various types meet public more rigid public health requirements, which are today more and closely controlled than ever before. Specifications for a modern kitchen ieed 2000 kitchen designed designed in the U.S.A. U.S.A. to feed 2000 people people a day, day, but but capable capable of of feeding feeding 5000, 5000, include include the the following equipment: equipment:

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French kitchen and table utensils of table utensils of the Middle Ages and the the Renaissance: French kitchen and the Middle Ages and Renaissance: ( l6th century); 2. Lidded cup (l4th century): 3. Copper pot with two l. Trencher Trencher (16th 1. century); 2. Lidded cup (14th century); 3. Copper pot with two (9th jug handles (l5th century); 4. (l6th century); century): 5. 5. Knife handles (9th century); 4. Metal Metal jug (15th century); Knife (16th century); 6. Mannite Marmite with (l4th century); with two two handles handles (14th (l5th century); century); 7. 7. Copper Copper kettle century); 6. kettle (I5th pitcher sculpted in 8. Copper with ewer (9th its oriental-style stand century)i 9. 8. Copper ewer with its oriental-style stand (9th cent ury) ; 9. Pitcher sculpted in the decoration (t5th century): Saint-Benoit church church in Paris (l5th 10. TwoTwothe decoration of of the the Saint-Benoit in Paris œntury); 10. branched l6th century); candlestick ((l6th cenrury); II. I l. Cauldron Cauldron ((15th l5th century). century). brancbed candlestick

bronze, to be bronze, was was considered considered to be one one of of the the precious precious metals. metals. History History tells tells us us that that the the Aedui, Aedui, the the people people who who inhabited inhabited ancient ancient Gaul, Gaul, invented invented metal metal plating plating and and it it is is thanks thanks to to this this discovery discovery that that vessels vessels and and kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were were made made in in such such a way that a way that tin, tin, applied applied on on copper, copper, could could not not be be distinguished distinguished from from silver. sil ver. There There are are many many people people who who protest protest against against the the disappeardisappearance ance of of the the archaic archaic spits spits or or such such other other utensils utensils formerly formerly used used in the kitchen. They are even even capable capable of of lamenting lamenting the the in the kitchen. They are passing of those those inconvenient inconvenient charioal charcoal ranges ranges - the the sloves stoves passing of about about which which Car€me Carême complained complained when when he he said: said: 'The 'The coal is is killing These were were the the old-fashioned old-fashioned paillasses, paillasses, killing us!' us!' These laboriously kept up, where, laboriously kept up, where, in in live live charcoal charcoal embers, embers, stews stews and and braised braised dishes dishes simmered simmered and and sometimes sometimes caught caught fire. fire. In In 1849, 1849, Michel Michel Chevalier Chevalier wrote wrote in in the the Magasin Magasin PitPittoresque:'The toresque: 'The improvement improvement of of household household utensils utensils has has more more to to do do with with real real freedom freedom than than is is generally generally realised, realised, for for itit contributes contributes a a great great deal deal to to freedom freedom from from drudgery drudgery in in the the home, home, which which matters matters no no less less to to human human happiness happiness than than liberty liberty in in aa public public place. place. One One utensil utensil may may free free the the servants servants from from one one type type of of arduous arduous or or unhealthy unhealthy task, task, another another allows allows one one person to person to do do the the work work of of three three and, and, consequently, consequently, frees frees two two from from domestic domestic drudgery.' drudgery_' Modern Modem kitchen kitchen equipment eqoipment -- Modern Modern kitchen kitchen equipment, equipment, either either in in domestic domestic or or institutional institutional kitchens, kitchens, includes includes such such utensils as well-sharpened saucepans, utensils as well-sharpened knives, knives, wire wire whisks, whisks, saucepans, frying frying pans, pans, casseroles, casseroles, braising braising pans, pans, kettles kettles and and strainers, strainers, and and many many inventions inventions which which in in recent recent years years have have contributed contributed much much to to make make culinary culinary operations operations easier easier and and have have taken taken the the drudgery drudgery out out of of cooking. cooking.

3 3 electric ranges ranges 33 compartment compartment steamers steamers 2large 2 large tilting tilting kettles used for soups and vegetables vegetables 22 undercounter undercounter refrigerators refrigerators I1 bakers'revolving bakers' revolving tray oven oyen 22 cooks'tables cooks' tables with with sinks sinks

I1 60-quart 60-quart (7O-litre) (70-litre) electric mixer mixer

2 salad salad preparation preparation tables tables Salad refrigerator Salad refrigerator

Fish Fish refrigerator refrigerator 80-quart 80-quart (9OJitre) (90-litre) electric electric mixer mixer Mobile Mobile flour flour bin bin Room Room refrigerators refrigerators for for meat meat Room Room refrigerator refrigerator for for vegetables vegetables and dairy products products Room Room refrigerator refrigerator for for frozen frozen foods foods Baker's Baker's refrigerator refrigerator 'Pass-through' 'Pass-through' refrigerator refrigerator which which can can be be filled from from the the kitchen and opened opened on on the the serving serving side side kitchen side side and 55 lO-quart pans used used for for soups soups and and sauces sauces 1O-quart (I2-litre) (l2-litre) tilting tilting pans Hot Hot food food table table Refrigerated Refrigerated cold co Id table table Milk Milk dispenser dispenser Cream Cream dispenser dispenser Tea Tea urn urn Coffee Coffee urn urn Electric Electric juice juice dispenser dispenser Electric Electric ice ice maker maker 527 527

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

I

i, i'{'d

Classic French pots and pans: 1. Casserole russe; 2. Sauté pan (plat à sauter); 3. Frying pan (sauteuse); 4. Smalt casserole russe; 5. Round cocotte; 6. Oval coppercocotte for cooking chicken en COCOlle; 7. Small copper cocotte for game; 8. Stew 4.Smallcasserolerusse;5.Roundcocotte;6.Ovalcoppercocotteforcookingchickenencocotte;T.Smallcoppercocotteforgame;8.Stew pan (marrnite (marmite d à ragoot);9. ragoût); 9. Large Large stock pot pot (grande marmite); marmite); 10. 10. Doublesaucepan(marmite)forsteamingpotatoes;ll.Braisingpan(braisiire)(Larozsse) Double saucepan (marmite) for steaming potatoes; Il. Braisiog pan (braisière) (Larousse)

528 528

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

Classic 3. Braising (braisidre)for filletof,beef; pan(braisière) forfillet of beef; Braising pan (casseroles) for forbain-marie; (poissonidre); 2.2.Saucepans pans: 1.l Copper bain-marie;3. Saucepans (casseroles) fish kettle pots and Classic French kettle (poissonière); Copper fish French pots and pans: 4.4. Round pan (plaque d'office); 6. Pan for cooking harn (turbotidre); (jambonniire) ;7.7.Turbot ham(jarnbonnière); rurbot kettle kettle(turbotière); (bassine or pan (bassine Round stew .11g,:iilln|;1"1.,r.. stew pan or rondin rondin àdragoût); ragofit)' 5.t Copper 8. Fish pan (plaque à poisson) (Larousse).

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529 529

KITCHEN TEAM TEAM KITCHEN

Addd toto these these utensils utensils there there are are many many machines machines for for Added serving food, food, for for disposing disposingof of rubbish rubbish and andfor for washing washing dishes. dishes. serving Many hotels hotels catering catering to to aa luxury luxury clientele clientele have have charcoal charcoal Many broilers and and rôtisserie r6tisserie spits spits rotating rotating before before open opeir fires. fires. broilers

famous kitchens kitchens of of the the old old Maire Maire restaurant, restaurant, then then the the famous Grand-Hotel at at Monte MonteCarlo Carlo and and the theSavoy Savoy in in London. London. He He Grand-Hotel finished his his active active career career at at the the Carlton Carlton Hotel Hotel inin London. London. finished Phil6as Gilbert Gilbert was was the the author author of of the the best best culinary culinary works works of of Philéas our time. time. Other Other illustrious illustrious names names inc1ude include Tony Tony Girod, Girod, our Ninlias, Argentier, Argentier, Prosper Prosper Drenault, Drenault, Prosper Prosper Salles Salles and and Ninlias, Deland. Deland. impossible for give the for us us to to give the names names of gros of ail all the the gros ItIt isis impossible past who bowtets of of the the past who have have improved improved the the status status of of the the bonnets culinary art. art. We We can only mention can only mention chefs great private chefs of private of the the great culinary houses, such as Urbain Urbain Dubois, Dubois, Émile Emite Bernard, Bernard, Armand Armand hou ses, su ch as Gouff6, Joseph Joseph Favre Favre and and Gastilleur, Gastilleur, sorne some of of whom whom had had Gouffé, charge of of the the imperial imperial and royal kitchens. and royal kitchens. charge KNEADING OF OF DOUGH. DOUGH. FRAISAGE FRATSAcE -- This This operation operation conconKNEADING sists of of breaking breaking up up the the dough dough once once itit has has become become elastic, elastic, by sists by working itit with palm of with the the palm of the the hand. hand. The The object object of of handling handling working the dough dough in in this this way way is to obtain perfect mixture is to obtain aa perfeet mixture of of ail all the the the ingredients. ingredients.

KITCHEN TEAM. TEAM. BRIGADE BRTcADE DE DE CUISINE In aa hotel cursrNE -- In hotel or or KITCHEN restaurant this this term term applies applies to to the the staff staffof kitchen. restaurant of aa kitchen. principle, aa kitchen In principle, kitchen team team of of aa relatively relatively important important In establishment, aa team team which which takes takes its its orders orders from from aa chef, chef, establishment, gros bonnet referrod to to as as the ('big-hat') in the gros bonnet ('big-hat') professional in professional referred jargon, consists of a chef sancler (sauce chef), who is conjargon, consists of a chef saucier (sauce chef), who is considered to to be be the the deputy deputy head head of of the the team; team; an an entremettier, entrernettier, sidered who has has charge preparation of charge of ofthe ofsoups, vegetables and and who the preparation soups, vegetables sweet courses; courses; aa rôtisseur rdtisseur who, who, in in addition addition to to various various roasts, roasts, sweet prepares fried also prepares fried dishes grills; and, dishes and and grills; and, finally, gardefinally, aa gardealso (larder chef), manger (larder chefl, who who has has charge charge of of aU all the the supplies, raw supplies, raw manger prepares cold and cooked, cooked, and and prepares cold dishes dishes such galantines, such as as galantines, and pdtis, mousses, jellies, sees terrines, pâtés, mousses, etc. prepares the etc. He He also also prepares the jellies, sees terrines, to the the cutting cutting up up of poultry, game, of meat, meat, fish, fish, poultry, game, etc., etc., and and does does to all the the cold cold, hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre relevant relevant to to the the kitchen kitchen service. service. ail Kitchen assistants, assistants, called called commis, commis, are are attached attached to to the the chef chef of of Kitchen each section. section. each If the the establishment establishment is is an an important important and and busy busy one, one, sorne some If (each team of these these sections sections (each team service semice is is called callod aa section, section, or or of partie, in in France), France), are are doubled. doubled. Thus Thus the the sauce sauce section section might might partie, have aa second second service service under under aa special special chef chefthe fish fish chef. chef. have - the Entremets becomes becomes aa separate separate section, section, also with aa chef also with chef at its at its Entremets head, usually usually the the soup soup chef, potagiste or chef, called called potagiste potager. The or potager. The head, (the section rdtisserie (the section in in charge charge of roasts) may of roasts) may be be supplesupplerôtisserie mented by by aa cook cook who who would would have have charge grills and charge of of ail all grills and mented would, therefore, therefore, be grillardin. be called called the the grillardin. would, In an an establishment establishment of greater importance, of still still greater importance, the the roastroastIn ing section, in in addition addition to to the roast chef chef proper and the ing section, the roast proper and the grillardin, also have have aa friturier (fryer), (fryer), aa noun which grillardin, would would also noun which probably does not exist in any dictionary probably does not exist in any dictionary but but is is accepted accepted in in culinary and means exactly what says. culinary terminology terminology and means exactly what itit says. Equally, the garde-manger, addition to Equally, the garde-manger, in in addition to the the actual actual head head of of this this important important section, section, might might be be supplementod supplemented by by the the inclusion of other chefs, each with his own inclusion of other chefs, each with his own speciality. speciality. One One might meat, etc. might have have the the charge charge of of hors-d'auvre, hors-d'œuvre, another another of ofmeat, etc. chef an assistant assistant chef, chef, there there are are also also special special teams teams dealing dealing chef and and an with pdtissier and and several with pastry. pastry. These These would would include include aa chef chefpâtissier several assistants, and aa cchef hef gglacier. lacier. assistants, aa chef chefconfiseur confiseur and The art of The art of managing managing the the kitchen kitchen team team of of aa big big restaurant restaurant or or hotel hotel is is aa difficult difficult one. one. A A chef chef in in charge charge of of aa kirchen kitchen must must not not only only be be aa man man who who knows knows his hisjob job - his his art, art, we we should should say say -inside but he he must must also also have have the the qualities qualities of of an an ideal ideal inside out, out, but administrator. The past (if time administrator. The time is is long long past (if itit ever ever existod existed at at all) ail) when when kitchens kitchens in in big big establishments establishments were were run run without without some sorne system of accounting. accounting. Today, Today, more more than than ever, ever, the the kitchen kitchen of of system of aa restaurant restaurant or or of of aa hotel hotel must must be be well weil organised, organised, everything everything must be foreseetr and carried must be foreseen and carried out out in in such such aa way way that that the the dishes, dishes, whilst whilst being being excellent excellent in in quality, quality, cost cost only only what what they they should should cost cost and and no no more. more. In In aa modern modem establishment establishment the the kitchen kitchen is is aa department department which which must must never never show show aa loss loss -profit. always a always a profit. At At the the end end of of the the nineteenth nineteenth century century and and at at the the beginning beginning of of the the twentieth twentieth there there were were aa great great number number of of chefs chefs de de anisine cuisine (famous (famous gros gros bowtets), bonnets), who who had had charge charge of of kitchen kitchen teams: M. Prat, who for a long time teams: M. Prat, who for a long time had had charge charge of of the the kitchens kitchens at at the the Grand-Hotel Grand-Hotel in in Paris; Paris; Jean Jean Giroix, Giroix, who who dirocted directed the the kitchen kitchen at at the the Hotel Hotel de de Paris Paris in in Monte Monte Carlo; Carlo; L6opold Léopold Mourier, Mourier, who, who, after after having having directed direeted the the kitchen kitchen of of the the Maire Maire restaurant restaurant (now (now no no more) more) became became the the grand grand maitre maître of of various various famous famous restaurants, restaurants, such such as as the the Cafe Café de de Paris, Paris, Armenonville, Armenonville, the the Pr6-Catelan, Pré-Catelan, Fouquet, Fouquet, etc. etc. The Thegreat great Escoffier, Escoffier, who who died died in in 1935, 1935,was was first first the the chef chefof of the the Petit Petit Moulin-Rouge, Moulin-Rouge, then then took took charge charge of of the the no no less less

Selection Selection of of cooks' cooks' knives knives:: L1. Palette Palette knife knife (Couteau (Couteau hà tartiner):Z. tartiner); 2. Carving Carving knife knife (Couteau (Couteau dc de cuisine);3. cuisine); 3. Slicing Slicing knife; knife; 4. 4. Chopping Chopping knife knife (Couteau (Couteau ità abattre\: abattre); 5. 5. Filleting FilleLing knife knife for for fsh(Couteautronche fish (Couteau tranche lart):6.yegetable lard); 6. Vegeta ble knife knife (Couteaudffice) (Couteau d office) plnt. (C oute llefie Andrd. Larousse) (CoUlellerie André. Phot. Larousse)

KNIFts. KNIFE. courEAU COUTEAU -- A A cutting cutting instrument, instrument, with with aa handle handle and and

aa blade. blade.

Kitchcn Kitcheo tnives. knives. courgArx COUTEAUX DE DE cursrNE CUISINE - For For tle the various various culinary essential to to have have good good tools, tools, and and in in culinary operations operations itit isis essential particular particular very very good good knives. knives. Each Each has has its its proper proper use. use. In In order order of of size size they they are: are: vegetable vegetable knife knife for for peeling peeling vegetables; vegetables; knife knife with with aa larger larger blade blade for for cutting cutting fish fish fillets; fillets; slicing slicing knife knife with with aa fairly fairly large large blade blade for for slicing slicing raw raw or or cooked cooked meat meat perfectly; perfectly; straight-bladed straight-bladed chopper, chopper, with with which which itit isis possible possible to to break break up up bones bones of ofaa certain certain size, size, and and to to hash hash meat meat in in the the same same way way as as with with aa four-bladed four-bladed chopper; chopper; carving carving knife, knife, which which isis used used for of fat fat pork pork or or bacon bacon and and which which resembles resembles for iutting cutting bards bards of the the so-called so-called 'English' 'English' knife knife used used to to carve carve large largejoints joints of ofbeef beef and but which, which, instead instead of of having having aa rounded rounded point, point, isis and hams, harns, but sharply sharply pointed. pointed. There also the theknife knife for forboning boningmeat. meat. ItItisis used used mostly mostly in in Thereisisalso butchery butcherybut butcan canbe beusod used inin cooking. cooking. 530 530

KROMESKY KROMESKY Cisaille Cisaille dà volaille\; volaille); the the cutlet cutlet beater; beater; the the butcher's butcher's saw; saw; and and the thescraper scraperfor for the thebutcher's butcher's table. table. good Table of excellent excellent quality, quality, with with good Table knives knives should should be be of cutting cutting blades blades in in pure pure steel. steel. Many Many table table knives knives are are made made they today today inin stainless stainless steel. steel. Their Their principal principal advantage advantage isis that that they in silver made are do not stain. stain. For For serving serving fruit, fruit, knives knives are made in silver do not plate. For fish, special knives are made of silver plate.

plate. For fish, special knives are made of silver plate.

Utensils of various shapes, REST. ponrs-cotrEeuKNIIE KNIFE-REST. PORTE-COUTEAU - Utensils ofvarious shapes, prevent placed in in glass glass or or silver, silver, on on which which the the knife knife is is placed to to prevent

soiling soiling the the tablecloth. tablecloth.

of KI\UCKLE. KNUCKLE. souRls SOURIS - Small, Small, fleshy fleshy muscle muscle on on the the leg leg of mutton. mutton. ItIt is is much much appreciated appreciated by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. This is not, properly speaking, a KOHLRABI. KOHLRABI. cHou-uw CHOU-RAVE -- This is not, properly speaking, a root, but aa swelling swelling of of the the stem stem above above ground ground in in the the form form of of aa root, but

plump, plump, pithy pithy ball. bail. Some Sorne varieties varieties have have quite quite a a delic1te delicate (q.v.) and for havour. flavour. All AIl the the recipes recipes given given for for turnips turnips (q.v.) and for

celeriac celeriac (q.v.) (q.v.) may may be be used used for for this this vegetable' vegetable. A LA PAYSANNE - Cut Kohlrabi KohJrabi ilà la la paysanne. paysanne. cuou-RAvs CHOU-RAVE À LA PAYSANNE Cut some chopped in in lard Brown slices. into the kohlrabi the kohlrabi into slices. Brown in lard in which wruch sorne chopped and of pork fresh breast some fresh softened. Add onion pork and onion has has been been softened. Add sorne breast of equal in equal and stock stock in wine and white wine with white salt. Moisten season season with with salt. Moisten with oven. proportions. Cook in proportions. Cook in the the oyen.

saignerl;2. Sorne slccial special knives: knives: l.1. Boning Booing knife knife (Couteau (Couteau it à saigner); 2. Fluted Fluted knife; knife; 3' 3. Some Potato peeler; peeler; 4. 4. Cannelling Cannelling knife; knife; 5' 5. Knife Knife for for scraping scraping lernon lernon zest zest;; 6. 6. can can opener opener Potato (Coutellerie (Coutellerie Andrt. André. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse)

Among the the cutting cutting tools tools which which it is necessary necessary to have have in in aa Among is aa weIl-ordered kitchen, kitchen, are the following: following: aa cleaver, cleaver, which which is well-ordered cut in in fairly large instrument with which a carcase can be cut half; half; a a chopper, chopper, to to crack the hardest bones; bones; a a chopping chopping knife, which which is made made with one, two or four blades; the the whole whole knife, series of of small knives used for chopping, chopping, peeling peeling and paring paring series into cutting potatoes potatoes, and for cutting vegetables, especially especially potatoes, potatoes into ribbons; knives for opening oysters; tin-openers. for knives with a fluting device or one for Little tools, such as knives little as should !ittle be mentioned, as zest, should be scraping lemon zest, for cutting cutting knives for special knives ravioli; special instruments cutting ravioli; for cutting instiuments for

in made in milk, originally originally made mares' milk, KOUMISS -- Fermented KOUMISS Fennented mares' ferment The fennent kifir. The to kéfir. similar ta rather similar Tartary, rather and Tartary, Turkestan and Turkestan (brewer's (8 oz.) g. (8 barm (brewer's oz.) bann 250 g. prepared by working 250 by working is prepared used is USed and a honey little a (4 with flour g. cup) oz.,l yeast) 125 and yeast) and 125 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) flour with a little honey and a (5|pints, add 33litres Next day day add overnight. Next glass ofmilk. Liave overnight. of milk. Leave glass litres (Si pints, grelt of a contains It leaven. pints) to this milk to this leaven. It contains a great deal 4 pints) milk 94 of 6t per cent alcohol. l'65 to to 3·23 3'23 per gas and from 1·65 and from acid gas cirbonic acid carbonic cent alcohol.

(poultry shears shears -jointing chicken chic[en (poultry for jointing grapefruit; scissors scissors for

CROMESQUI. See CROMESQUI. KROMESKY -- See KROMESKY

(IVrcolas) mould(Nicolas) Kugelhopf withmould Kugelhopfwith

531 531

KUGELHOPF

KUGELHOPF

KUGELHOPF u KOUGLOFF (Nsation pastry). KoucELKUGELHOPF or KOUGLOFF (Alsation pastry). KOUGELHoF, KoucI,or It is said that eueen Marie Antoinette was HOP, KOUGLOF - -It is said that Queen Marie Antoinette was yery fond of this pastry, which contributed a great deal to the very fond of this pastry, which contributed a great deal to the fashion in her day for sweets made with risen dough. These fashion in her day for sweets made with risen dough. These were no longer made with leaven, as they had been until the were no longer made with leaven, as they had been until the *jqqh of lheeighteenth sighteenth century, but with brewer's yeast, middle of the century, but with brewer's yeast, which had been in use for a very long time in Austrii and which had been in use for a very long time in Austria and Poland. Poland. Some authorities, however, believe that it was Car€me Sorne authorities, however, believe that it was Carême who popularised this pastry in paris, when he established who popularised this pastry in Paris, when he established hiTrc{ as a pastry-cook. saidthat thathe giventhe hewas wasgiven the himself as a pastry-cook. ItIt isissaid reclpe by M. Eugine, prince that time time mas master cheftoioPrince recipe by M. Eugène, atat that ter chef Schwartzenberg, the Austrian ambassador. Schwartzenberg, the Austrian ambassador. 500 g. (18 oz,.,4 cups) sieved flour, 200 g. ._Ingredienls. Ingredients. 500 g. (18 OZ., # cups) sieved flour, 200 g. (7 oz.,-scant cup) butter, (3* oz., ! cup) fine sugar,? 90 g.g. (3~ (7 OZ., scant cup) butter, 90 OZ., ~ cup) fine sugar, 4 g. (l oz.) yeast - or 15 g. G or.) in summer, 50 g. 2l 9-g9., 25 g. (1 oz.) yeast - or 15 g. (t oz.) in summer, 50 g. eggs, (2 oz., i cup) currants, l| teaspoons salt. (2 OZ., cup) currants, It teaspoons salt. Make the dough according to the instructions for Brioche Make the dough according to the instructions for Brioche dough (see DOUGH), but make it a little less firm. dough (see DOUGH), but make it a little less firm. Butter a large kugelhopf mould and line the sides with Butter a large kugelhopf mould and line the sides with shredded almonds. Half-fill with dough. Leave the dough in shredded almonds. Half-fil! with dough. Leave the dough in a wann place, until it has risen above the sides of the mould. a warm place, until it has risen above the sides of the mould. Bake in a hot oven N to 45 minutes. Bake in a hot oyen 40 to 45 minutes. KULICH (Russian cookery). rour,rcn - Cake of risen dough, KULICH (Russian cookery). KOULICH - Cake of risen dough, made in Russia for the ceremonial Easter dinner. After it f,as made in Russia for the ceremonial Easter dinner. After it has been baked and cooled, it is decorated with a cluster of been baked and cooled, it is decorated with a cluster of artificial roses. artificial roses. KUMMEL - Russian liqueur extracted from caraway seeds KUMMEL - Russian liqueur extracted from caraway seeds (not, as wrongly supposed, from cumin seeds, a mis(not, as wrongly supposed, from cumin seeds, a misapprehension that explains its name because cumin is apprehension that explains its na me because cumin is Kiimmel in German). Kümmel in German). Ole type of Russian kummel has a deposit of crystals at One type of Russian kummel has a deposit of crystals at the bottom of the bottle. This is sugar with which the liqueur the bottom of the bottle. This is sugar with which the liqueur is supersaturated under heat and which resumes its crystaltne is supersaturated under heat and which resumes its crystalline state four or or five five days days later. later. The The same same state upon upon cooling cooling four phenomenon also occasionally occurs in jam-making. phenomenon also occasionally occurs in jam-making.

Kulich, Kulich, RussianEasler Easter Russian cake cake

t

Danzig liqueur liqueur isis aa well-known, well-known, potent potent type type of Danzig of kummel kummel particularly large with aa particularly large amount amount of of crystallisation. crystallisation. ItIt isis an with an essential ingredient ingredient of of Rothschild Rothschild soufflé. soufr6. essential Kummel or or Leidsche l*idsche kaas kaas isis also also the the name name of Kummel of aa Dutch Dutch (See CHEESE.) cheese. (See CHEESE.) cheese.

IiyMgUAT -- Very Very small small orange orange shaped shaped like KUMQUAT like an an elongated elongated olive. This Thisfruit, which isis nowadays nowadayssold sold in olive. fruit, which in certain certain food food stores, stores. is eaten eaten raw, raw, like like oranges oranges and and tangerines. tangerines. is It can can be be used used in in salads salads or or marmalade. marmalade. It KVASS. KWASS KwAss -- Slightly gaseous, mildly Slightly gaseous, KVASS. mildly alcoholic alcoholic drink drink similar to to beer. beer. It It isis made made in in Russia Russia by similar by adding adding fermented fermented yeast toaa must of of rye flour flourmixedwitha yeast to mixed wi th a little ted barley. little sprou sprouted barley. It isis sometimes juniper berries. sometimes flavoured with mint leaves It leaves or or juniper berriei.

s32 532

for touches white, except for winter win ter it turns almost completely white, partridge called snow snow partridge It isis sometimes sometimes called black on on the the taiI. tail. It of black plumage. because of its winter plumage. because in spite for the table, spite of of its its table, in is much sought after for This bird is fact that itit feeds feeds on on is due to to the fact flavour which is slightly bitter ftavour and other other mountain berries. myrtle berries and birch-shoots, myrtle (q.v.), which which belong grouse (q.v.), same belong to for grouse to the the same All recipes recipes for AIl lagopus, are are suitable for this this bird. bird. family as as the lagopus, suitable for family

BOUll..LE -- See CHEESE. CHEESE. LA BOUILLE

wrasse.ltis - European sea fish, a]so It is also called wrasse. LABRUS. LABRE LABREremarkable for its ils brilliant colouring, but is is tasteless, and remarkable as an an inused as limp in texture. It is is served fried, fried, or may be be used bouillabaisse (q.v.). gredient of of bouillabaisse LACHE in the delicate to eat, cooked in LACIIE -- Small sea-fish, very delicate same way as the smelt (q.v.). It is rather scarce. LACRIMA-CHRISTI. LAcRyMA-crnnn -- Wine made from LACRIMA-CHRISTI. LACRYMA-CHRISTI and grapes grown on the slopes of Vesuvius. It is rather sweet and slopes ofVesuvius.

in the the middle of of who was was born in LaguipiEre, who LAGUIPIÈRE LAGUIPDRE -- Laguipière, of the was one one of the great and died died in in 1812, was the eighteenth eighteenth century and him as as 'the Car€me described him cookery. Carême masters masters of of French French cookery. all in aIl Car€me's tutor tutor in of our our tÎmes'. times'. Carême's most chef of most remarkable chef accomwho accomfact, Laguipière, Laguipidre, who waq in in fact, branches of cookery cookery was, branches of Russia. to Russia. followed him him to and later later followed panied Murat Naples and Murat to to Naples (later Vilnius) l8l2 during the the 1812 Vilnius) during at Vilno Vilno (Iater He froze froze to death at to death from Moscow. retreat from Moscow. parisim, Cuisinier parisien, his book, book, lele Cuisinier At of his At the the beginning beginning of great master: master: about his his great following words words about Carême wrote the the following Car€me wrote pupil, voice of of aa pupil, Listen to the voice to the 'Awake, 'Awake, shade of Laguipiire! Listen shade of in Paris, surrounddied in Paris, surroundhave died aa friend, devotee ! You should have friend, aa devotee! of memory of in al! all of of us the memory ed reverence evoked evoked in us by by the ed by the reverence by the pious homage of aa your great accept the homage of great work . . . Laguipière, Laguipidre, accept the pious your work ... your name. name. 1I have have works with with your faithful my works faithful disciple. 1I couple couple my and, today, 1I invoke invoke you with pride in all my my books, and, cited in aIl cited you you my yoru memory my finest work.' your dedicate to to you memory and dedicate practitioner of art of of of the learned aa practitioner the art It regrettable that so learned It isis regrettable that so left any any written written not have have left cooking should not cooking as as Laguipière Laguipidre should posterity. for posterity. record record of of his his teachings teachings for

delicate.

LACT ARY. LACTAIREIt contains LACTARY. LAcTAIRE- Fungus of the agaric type. It aa white or coloured milky juice. Sorne lactaries are are poisonSome lactaries ous, others are edible, flavour in spite spite edible, though of rather poor ftavour of the the fact is called called delicious. fact that one type is LACTIC ACID. LACTIQUE - An acid present in sour milk and presentin and sourmilk rlcrpue-An LACTICACID. certain and isis an antiseptic antiseptic and It isis an fermented substances. i:ertain fermented substances. It 1-"'" c, . .·... ",,'J effective particularly in preventing putrefaction. A primitive effective in it in in sour preserving meat was sour milk. was to immerse it method of nrp·~prvino LACTIC These are are microbes microbes LACTIC FERMENTS. FERMENTS. LACTIQUES recrreurs -- These which are very widespread and of many kinds. kinds. When When they they which are widespread and (milk sugar) molecules are introduced molecules lactose (milk milk the introduced into milk the lactose are produced. It It isis these microbes microbes are split lactic acid acid isis produced. split and and lactic which breed on and in in dairies. dairies. of cows cows in in cowsheds cowsheds and on the the teats teats of They agents in milk and and are are one one of of the in They cause cause the curdling curdling of of miLk the agents the production of of cheese. cheese. Sour Sour milk milk isis produced either either by introducing indigenous ferments ferments into milk or or by using from into the using ferments imported from the milk the These latter, latter, being being and the Caucasus. the Balkans, Egypt Egypt and Caucasus. These adapted quantity produce aa larger larger quantity adapted to to higher higher temperatures, temperatures, produce of (See CHEESE, KOUMISS, KEFIR, KOUMISS, CHEESE, KÉFIR, of lactic lactic acid. acid. (See YOGURT.) YOGURT.)

regiven in Franche-Comte to to aa reLAITIAT in the Name given the Franche-Comté LAITIAT -- Name freshing wild fruit fruit in in whey. whey. made by freshing drink drink made by steeping steeping wild year old. old. animal before LAMB. ovine animal before itit isis aa year lcNrlu -- Young Young ovine LAMB. AGNEAU already year, wh en the After has already animal has the animal when age of of one one year, After the the age (the incisor of herbivorous herbivorous grown grown ils incisor teeth teeth of nippers (the its first first two two tlippers pennanent animaIs), lied aa yearling. When other permanent When the the other called animals), itit isis ca teeth ram or or aa ewe. ewe. becomes aa ram the animal becomes teeth appear, the forms: ln known in in two lamb isis known two forms: In the culinary culinary sense sense lamb yet (or baby) not yet 1.l. The lamb, This This animal animal has has not The milk-fed milk-fed (or baby) lamb. graze.The yet been The best been best out to tograze. and has been put out not yet weaned and has not been weaned French Pauillac lamb. lamb of French lamb of this this type type isis Pauillac young 2.2. Ordinary lamb lamb. This This isis aa young meadow lamb. lamb or or salt salt meadow yet reached ts full sheep full growth. not yet reached iits sheep which has not Good quality lamb recognised by the width of its lamb can can be be recogllls{:d Good quality loins, flesh, and and by by the the with ftesh, well covered with loins, which be weil which should should be whiteness and abundant, abundant, firm and which should be firm should be its fat, fat, which whiteness of of its freshness can can be be judged kidneys. Its Its freshness round the the kidneys. especially round from and the colour of of the the kidneys, legs and the colour its legs of its from the the firmness of

LACTOMETER. graduated densimeter llcroldrnr -- AA """.rtll'J,tprt LACTOMETER. LACTOMÈTRE which milk, from which the cream density of of milk, which shows shows the the density content can be content can calculated. be calculated. LADIES' FINGERS. GOMBO, - See LADIES'FINGERS. coMBo, GOMBAUT coMBAUrSee OKRA. OKRA. pocHE -- Large LADLE. long and aa long LAI)LE. POCHE Large spoon spoon with with cup cup bowl bowl and handle, liquid dishes. handle, used mainly for for serving dishes. used mainly serving liquid

LADY yellow apple, tinged LADY APPLE Tiny variety of pale yellow APPLE -- Tiny with and crunchy; the with carmine. The white white flesh isis firm and carmine. The ftavour flavour sweetish, with aa touch sweetish, but but with touch of of bitterness. bitterness. LAGOPUS. The lagopus or Pyreneut partridge LAGOPUS. LAGOPÈDE rlcoptps -- The has plumage with with thin thin black streaks in summer. In has tawny tawny plumage

533 533

LAMB

!------

Ba_ro_n-::--:-:-::--_1!-_ _

times part of of the loins, is left with the legs, then such aa joint joint times a part is called ca lied a baron. Half Half of of this this joint joint is known known as a quarter. quarter. The best way to prepare these these various joints joints is to roast or

~_ _ _ _ ~

., 1

pot-roast them. The loins can also be cooked whole (on the spit or in the oven) oven) but they are usually divided divided into cutlets,

L__ _

which be grilled grilled or or fried and served plain plain or with with various various which can be garnishes. lamb offal (variety garnishes. All Alllamb (variety meat) meat) is delicate delicate in flavour. fiavour.

Lamb plays an important important part both in classical classical French French cookery cookery and in home home cookery. cookery. Baby or milk-fed lamb is divided divided into the the same cuts as as ordinary lamb: lamb: baron, baron, loin, double, shoulder, leg, leg, quarter, quarter, saddle. saddle. All Ali these the se cuts can be served with garnishes garnishes recommended mind mended for ordinary lamb and for mutton. Bearing in mind the the particularly particularly delicate flavour fiavour of this this meat, however, it is advisable advisable to to serve serve it grilled, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or as as a roast, with its its own juice juice -- thickened or clear -- as the only accompaniment. ment. Other Other parts of of milk-fed lamb are used for for blanEtettes, blanquettes, ragofrts sauté dishes. ragoûts and saut6

Lamb: Lamb: division division of of the the live live animal animal

which which should be be pale pale pink. pink. Baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb is is genergenerally ally sold whole, whole, with its its pluck. It It is also sometimes sometimes sold in

_ BABY BABY oT or MILK-FED LAMB. AGNEAU AGNEAU DE LAIT LAITLeg Leg of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb in pastry ilà la p6rigourdine. périgourdine.

quarters. quarters. Lamb Lamb should be be eaten eaten at at its freshest. freshest. This This meat meat does not keep keep for for very very long. Ordinary Ordinary lamb lamb and and milk-fed milk-fed lamb lamb are are sold sold in in butchers' butchers' shops shops and, and, in in France, France, in in poultry poultry shops. Ordinary lamb lamb is is divided divided into into cuts cuts like like mutton. mutton. The best best parts parts are are the legs, legs, the the saddle saddle and and the the loins. The neck neck and breast breast are principally principally used used for for making making blanquettes, blanquettes, and saut6 sauté dishes. dishes. fricassées, ragohts ragoûts and fricassies, The legs are are generally generally used used for roasting. roasting. They They are served as or with with a garnish of of vegetables vegetables -- baked, baked, as they they are, are, plain plain or dressed dressed with with butter, butter, or or braised. braised. The The shoulders, shoulders, whether whether boned boned or or not, not, are are usually usually prepared in in the the same same manner manner as as legs. legs. Two Two legs legs are are called ca lied aa double. double. When When the the saddle, saddle, and and somesome-

Baron Baron Saddle Sadd le

crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU uN EN pArE PÂTE A À r.,c, LA pfnrcouRDrNE PÉRIGOURDINE -- A method method of preparation preparation for leg of of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb. lamb. Trim Trim the the leg and remove most most of of the the bone. Cook Cook in a hot oven oven for for l0 10 minutes minutes to brown brown it. it. Allow to to cool. cool. Cover Cover completely completely with sausage meat meat mixed mixed with one-third of its its weight weight of uncooked uncooked goose goose liver rubbed rubbed through through a a sieve, sieve, 22 diced diced truffies, truffies, I1 egg. egg. Wrap Wrap the the leg leg in a sheet sheet of of salt salt pork pork or or a piece piece of of pig's pig's caul, previously previously soaked soaked in cold water. water. Put Put the the leg on an oval-shaped sheet of rolled-out pastry. Cover Cover with with another sheet sheet of of pastry. pastry. Seal Seal the the edges edges by by crimping crimping them. Make Make a hole hole in in the the middle middle to to allow allow steam to to escape. escape. Brush the the top top of of the the pastry pastry with with beaten beaten egg, egg, and and put put

CUTS CUTS OF OF LAMB LAMB l.1. Shoulder:2. Shoulder; 2. Rolled Rolled shoulder shoulder l*g Leg l.1. Loin; Loin; 2.2. Bonedchops Boned chops

534

LAMB on aa baking baking sheet. Cook Cook in a moderate oven oyen for 1ljt hours. itit on

and pepper, salt and season with salt spit, season it a regular shape. Put on aa spit, roast before brisk fire, fire, and roast before aa brisk with melted melted butter butter and brush with brush (1 lb.). per 500 g. (1 lb.). allowing 20 to 25 25 minutes per 500 g. allowing garnish with with long dish, dish, and and garnish on aa long Take it off the the spit, spit, put on pan lemon. Dilute Dilute the and quarters of of lemon. the pan of watercress and bunches ofwatercress juices lamb. and serve the lamb. stock and serve with the juices with aa little stock garand garmint sauce sauce and generally served with mint served with Roast lamb lamb is is generally in roasted in can also also be be roasted Lamb can nished with various vegetables. Lamb the the oyen. oven. n'.a,cNsnu 6p.luI,E D'AGNEAU GriUedsboulder or milk-fedlamb. milk-fed lamb. ÉPAULE Grilled shoulder of baby or few slits on both both slits on DE LAIT Trim the shoulder, shoulder, make aa few cRrI,rrs- Trim LArr GRILLÉEwith melted melted butter. sides, butter. and brush brush with season, and sides, season, 25 minutes. minutes. flame for for 20 20 to to 25 Grill moderate flame Grill under under aa moderate melted butter, butter, with melted Sprinkle brush with white breadcrumbs, brush Sprinkle with white and grill or colour. to colour. or broiler broiler to and put under the grill garnished with Arrange on with watercress. watercress. dish. Serve Serve garnished on aa long dish. AGNEAU DE DE LAIT LAIr Baby rice. AGNEAU with rice. lamb stuffed strffed witb milk-fd lamb Baby or or milk-fed (see pilaf (see FARCI Rice pilaf with half-cooked lamb with half-cooked Rice AU RIZ nrz -- Stuffthe Stuffthe lamb FARcr AU liver, heart, heart, PILAF), animal's liver, added the the animal's which have have been been added PILAF), to to which sweetbreads fried into small slices, briskly briskly fried small slices, cut into and kidneys, kidneys, eut sweetbreads and in and seasoned. seasoned. in butter, butter, and Sew lamb. Coyer Cover the the back back the lamb. and truss truss the opening, and Sew up up the the opening, place. Put with Put on on aa spit spit in place. tied in rashers of of bacon bacon tied with strips or rashers strips or per and 2V25 minutes minutes per allowing 20-25 lively fire, roast before fire, allowing before aa lively and roast 500 (l lb.). g. (1 lb.). 500 g. Remove and eut cut away away off the the bacon bacon and spit" take take off Remove from from the the spit, trussing garnish with watercress with watercress dish, garnish long dish, Put on on aa long string. Put trussing string. juices, diluted and pan juices, with diluted with quarters oflemon. with the Serve with the pan of lemon. Serve and quarters aa few stock. few tablespoons of stock. tablespoons of

When removed removed from the oven, oyen, pour through the hole in When the top top l+ It dl. (* (t pint, Jt cup) Pdrigaeux Périgueux sauce (see SAUCE). the Serve on on aa napkin-covered napkin-covered dish. dish. Serve This kind kind of of hot pie can also be made with a boned boned and rolled leg of of ordinary lamb. rolled of baby baby or or milk-fed milk-fed lamb lamb irà la la Clamart. Clamart. CARRÉ Loin of c.mnf D'AGNEAU Loin Àu LA crruvrenr CLAMART - Trim of baby or milk-fed lamb and A - Trim the loin of pot-roast it in butter. When When cooked, add to the add to the casserole g. (12 (12 o2.,2| oz., 2t cups) fresh fresh garden peas prepared prepared àd la garden peas 350 g. under aa française (see (see PEAS). Leave to simmer sim mer for 55 minutes under frangaise lido lid. Loin of of baby baby ormilk-fed or milk-fed lamb La Varenne. CARRÉ cennE D'AGNEAU lambLa Loin LA vARENNE VARENNE - Bone a a trimmed trimmed loin baby or or milk-fed milk-fed loin of baby LA Beat it to flatten slightly, season lamb. Beat season with salt and pepper, dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and with breadcrumbs, pressing cover with dip and coyer down well weil to to make make the the crumbs adhere. loin in in adhere. Cook Cook the the loin butter until until both sides our. clarified butter colour. sides are aa golden col clarified Arrange on on aa dish foundation composed composed of aa salpicon dish on on aa foundation Arrange of cultivated cultivated Mushrooms Mushrooms cooked in cream (see MUSH(q.v.) of crearn (see MUSHROOMS). Sprinkle Sprinkle with (see BUTTER, with Noisette Norette butter butter (see ROOMS). Compound butters). Compound butters). of baby baby or Loin of D'AcNEAU cmnr D'AGNEAU maharaiah. CARRÉ lamb maharajab. or milk-fed lamb Loin MAHARADJAH - Trim a loin of milk-fed lamb and pot-roast in in milk-fed a loin of Trim MAHARADJAH butter. butter. When half-cooked, (3 oz., onion g. (3 cup) chopped chopped onion add 75 75 g. oz.,*~ cup) When half-cooked, add lightly butter. Season curry teaspoon curry salt, 1I teaspoon Season with salt, lightly cooked in butter. cooked in powder and lid on. with aa lid on. powder and aa clove of garlic. Cook Cook with clove of Serve shed with (see PILAF) PILAF) and and small garnished Rice pilaf (see small with Rice Serve garni tomatoes juices with pan juices lj dl. dl. with It in oiL oil. Dilute Dilute the cooked in the pan tomatoes cooked (t pint, 1 cup) white wine, add 2 dl. (t pint, seant cup) fresh $ pint, 3 cnp) white wine, add 2 dl. $ pint, scant cup) fresh cream, pour over curry. simmer, and and pour over the the curry. cream, simmer, Loin baby or clnnf D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU milk-fed lamb lamb Monselet. Monselet. CARRÉ Loin of of baby or milk-fed MONSELET lamb and and cook cook milk-fed lamb loin of of baby or milk-fed MoNSELET -- Trim Trim aa loin baby or under with freshly freshly grill. When nearly cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with When nearly under aa grill. grated grill to golden. put back grated breadcrumbs turn golden. and put under grill to turn back under breadcrumbs and Put (see POTATOES). potatoes (see POTATOES)' Put on Anna potatoes of Anna on aa foundation foundation of Garnish in butter. butter. cooked in quarters of with quarters artichokes cooked of small small artichokes Garnish with Surround (see sauce (see Demi-glace sauce buttered Demi-glace Surround with with aa border border of of buttered SAUCE). sAUCE). Loin perigourdine. CARRÉ clnn6 la périgourdine. lamb ài la milk-fed lamb Inin of of baby baby or or milk-fed D'AGNEAU - Trim pEnIcouRDINEand bone Trim and bone aa ll PÉRIGOURDINE D'AGNEAU EN ru CRÉPINE cnfpwn Ài LA loin and cook cook in in butter until three-quarters three-quarters butter until milk-fed lamb lamb and loin of of milk-fed done. cool. done. Allow Allow to to cool. Coat pork forcemeat forcemeat with finely minced pork finely minced on both sides with both sides Coat on mixed piece of pig's caul of pig's caul in aa thin Wrap in thin piece with diced diced trufHes. truffes. Wrap mixed with previously covers the fat covers the previously soaked water. Make Make sure sure the the fat in cold cold water. soaked in meat with cover with melted butter, with melted butter, coyer meat completely. Spread with completely. Spread white grill or and grill or with more more butter butter and sprinkle with white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sprinkle broil garnish with with small small loin on dish, garnish low heat. Put the on aa dish, on low heat. Put the loin broil on potato Pirigueux sauce sauce with Périgueux potato balls in butter. Serve with cooked in butter. Serve balls cooked (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fried loin of baby or milk-fed lamb à la viennoise. CARRÉ Fried loin of baby or milk-fed lamb i la viennoise. clnnf D'AGNEAU FRIT À preparation Method of of preparation LA VIENNOISE vIENNoIsr -- Method D'AcNEAU rnrr .l LA suitable (or baby) lamb. milk-fed (or baby) lamb. for loin loin of of milk-fed only for suitable only Divide lemon in oil, for 1I hour hour in oil, lemon loin in in half. half. Marinate Marinate for Divide the the loin juice, juice, salt, pieces of parsley. Drain pepper and Drain the of the pieces and chopped chopped parsley. salt, pepper lamb in egg and breaddip in egg and breadin flour flour and and dip lamb and and dry; dredge in dry; dredge crwnbs. fat. deep-fry in sizzling fat. or deep-fry in sizzling Fry in in clarified clarified butter butter or crumbs. Fry Garnish quarters of parsley and lemon. of lemon. and quarters Garnish with with fried fried parsley Quarter of lamb. QUARTIER D'AGNEAU - Joint comprising Quarter of lamb. eUARTIER D'AGNEAU - Joint comprising the from baby or baby or It isis mainly mainly taken taken from leg and and half saddle. It half the the saddle. the leg milk-fed (Pauillac) lamb, and is usually roasted. Ali (Pauillac) All the the roasted. lamb, and is usually milk-fed le of garnishes ordinary or sadd saddle of ordinary garnishes recommended for baron recommended for baron or lamb applicable to quarter of lamb. lamb are are applicable to quarter of lamb. Roast baby or milk-fed lamb. AGNEAU DE LAIT RÔTI - This Roast baby or milk-fed lamb. acNrAU DE LlIr nOu - This method of preparation is suitablefor smalliambs. Dress the lambs. Dress the preparation for is suitable small method of and shoulders. Truss the lamb to give skin over the knuckles skin over the knuckles and shoulders. Truss the lamb to give

RoaSl Roast baron baronoflamb oflamb

LAMB. AGNEAU -_ LAMB. AGNEAU Baron comprising the the The eut cutcomprising BARoND'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU - - The lamb. BARON Baronof of lamb. le. This two joint isisroasted potroasted on spitor orpotonaaspit This joint and the legs and the sadd saddle. two legs roasted, juice. roast ininits itsown own juice. asaaroast may also also be servedas roasted, but beserved but may ItIt isis accompanied garnish of vegetables, either either of vegetables, by aa garnish accompanied by arranged joint or withits its andwith served separately, separately, and orserved around the thejoint arranged around own juice, left nature dependingon onthe thenature leftasasitit isisor orthickened, thickened, depending own juice, of garnish. of the thegarnish. For Average METHODS, Average Forcooking seeCULINARY CULINARY METHODS, cooking time time see cooking roasts. times for roasts. cookingtimesfor for baron of lamb. Green vegetables Garnishes suitable Garnishes suitable for baron of lamb. Green vegetables am; braised ver soise; ; dressed Anversoise vegetables ;An cream; braised vegetables; with butter orcre dressed with butter or bouquetière; jarduchesse ;jarDauphine ; duchesse; Clamart ; Dauphine; bretonne ; Clamart; bouquetiire ; bretonne; dinière; provengale;renaissance; parisienne; provençale; rmaissance; macddoine; parisienne; diniire; macédoine; Richelieu. (seePOpotatoes(see PO(See GARNISHES.) Anna potatoes GARNISHES.) Anna Richelieu.(See TATOES) ways potatoesprepared preparedininvarious variousother otherways TATOES)and andpotatoes would wouldalso alsobe besuitable. suitable. 535 535

LAMB LAMB Blanquette of lamb. BLANQUETTE BLANeUETTE D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU -- This of lamb. This method method BllUlQuette preparation isis often of preparation often describcd described as as aa fricassée. of fricassie. pieces of Soak the the pieces of lamb lamb and and dry dry weil. well. Fry Fry in in butter withbutter withSoak out allowing allowing to to brown. brown. Season. Season. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons out (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour, flour, blend blend over over heat, heat, add add white white stock stock and and (3 garnish as (see below). as for for Blanquette Blanquette of of lamb lantb àd l'ancienne I'ancienne (see below). gamish Bring to to the with the the boil, boil, simmer simmer with lid on from 45 the lid on from 45 minutes minutes to to Bring hour. 1I hour. pan. Add Transfer to another pan. to another Add small small onions, onions, mushrooms, mushrooms, Transfer yolks as and the sauce. Blend Blend in the sauce. in egg egg yolks as described described below. below. and Blanquette of lamb àI l'ancienne. of lamb I'ancienne. BLANQUETTE BLANeUETTE D'AGNEAU D'AcNs^au ÀA Blanquette L'ANcIENNE -- This This isis made made of of shoulder shoulder and and ribs ribs of of ordinary ordinarv L'ANCIENNE (4 lb.) meadow lamb. lamb. Cut or salt salt meadow 1* kg. Cut l~ kg. (4 lb.) lamb lamb into into unifonn uniform or pieces. Soak Soak for for 1I hour hour in in water, water, blanch, dip dip in in cold cold water water to to pieces. cool, and and dry. dry. cool, Put into into aa shallow pan. Add shallow pan. (or aa light Add enough enough white stock stock (or light Put pot-au-fa,t broth just cover broth -- sec see SOUPS SOUpS AND AND-BROTHS) coier pot-au-feu BROTHS) to just the meaL meat. Add Add 22 medium-sized medium-sized carrots quarters, 2 carrots eut in quarters, cut in the medium-sized onions onions -- one one studded studded with with aa clove clove -- and and aa medium-sized garni consisting bouquet garni consisting of parsley, aa stalk of aa sprig sprig of of parsley, stalk of of bouquet leeks, aa sprig celery, 22 leeks, of thyme thyme and sprig of and aa bay leaf. Season bay leaf. Season with celery, salt. salt. Bring to remove scwn to the the boil, boil, remove scum and and simmer with the lid simmer with lid .on on Bring pan 45 the pan 45 minutes minutes to to 1I hour. hour. the Take out pieces of out the the pieces lamb and of lamb and remove remove small pieces of small pieces of Take and skin bone and which havè skin which havi become become detached detached during during cooking. bone Put the lamb into into aa shallow pan with the lamb shallow pan 12 small with 12 small onions Put previously cooked (q.v.), and cooked in in aa cou court-banillon and the the same previously ri-bouillon (q.v.), number of cooked cooked mushrooms. nwnber of mushrooms. (q.v.) of Make aa roux roux (q.v.) g.(2L of 60 60 g. oz., 5 tablespoons) Make (2t oz., tablespoons) butter (3 oz., g. (3 and75 oz.,t cup) flour. flour. Add Add the strained stock in which and 75 g. the strained "up) the cooked, simmer for 15 minutes, skim, strain, lamb was was cooked, for 15 the lamb and pour over the and pour over the lamb. lamb. gently for Simmer gently for 20 20 to minutes. Blend Simmer to 25 25 minutes. Blend in 44 egg yolks yolks (6 tablespoons, mixed with 1I dl. dl. (6 scant ft cup) cup) cream, cream, aa dash tablespoons, seant mixed with of and aa pinch grated nutmeg. of lemon lemon juice juice and pinch of of grated nutmeg. Keep Keep the blanquette do not blanquelle hot hot but but do not allow allow to to boil. boil. Alternatively, cook the and put the lamb lamb in in stock, stock, and put it it into into a AJternatively, cook shallow pan with onions onions cooked cooked in the and the shallow pan with in court-bouillon, and mushrooms. mushrooms. Keep Keep hot hot with with the the pan pan covered. covered. Prepare Prepare (see SAUCE) Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see SA UCE) with with the stock stock in which the lamb was cream and lemon juice, was cooked. cooked. Blend Blend with with egg egg yolks, yolks, cream juice, to cloth, and to the the desired desired consistency, consislency, strain strain through through aa tammy tammycloth, pour pour over over the the lamb. lamb. Lamb's Lamb's braimbrains - See See OFFAL OFF AL or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. Lamb's Lamb's breast breast. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AGNEAUD'AGNEAU - This is is generally gencrally used for making ragofits ragolÎts or or saut6 sauté dishes. dishes. It 1t can can also be be made made into for making ipigrarnmes épigrammes (q.v.) (q.v.) and and is is used used instead of of beef bœf to to prepare prepare country country soups soups (see (sec SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Mutton Mu/ton broth). Lamb's Lamb's breast breast iil I'englaise. l'anglaise. porrRrNE pOI'mrr'iE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A À r'aucL'ANGLAIsE LAISE - Cook Cook the the breast breast as as in in the the recipe recipe for for Lamb's Lamb's breast breast dci la la diable diable (see (sec below) below) and and leave leave to to get get cold under undcr a press. press. Cut into into rectangular rectangular pieces, pieces, dip dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and breadcrumbs breadcmmbs and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Arrange Arrange on a long long dish, dot dot with with dabs dabs of of half-melted half-melted Maitre MaÎ/re d'h6tel d'hô/el butter buller (see (sec BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bul/ers). Lamb's Lamb's breast breast fried frjed in in batter. botter. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AcNEl,u D'AGNEAU EN EN FRrror FRITOT -- Braise, Braise, bone, bone, cool cool under under aa press press and cut eut the the breast breast of of lamb lamb into into small, small, square square pieces. pieces. Steep for for I1 hour hour in in oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, chopped chopped parsley, parsJey, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces in in light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with finely finely ground ground salt. salt. Arrange Arrange on on a a napkin napkin in in aa pyramid, pyramid, garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley, parsley, and and serve with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. Lamb's Lamb's breast breast in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs wifr with various variollS garnfuhes. garnishes. porrRrNE D'AGNEAU pAwEe- Cook pieces of breast, dipped in POITRINE D'AGNEAU PANÉE - Cook pieces of breast, dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, in in clarified clarified butter butter as as described described in in the the egg and recipe Lamb's breast breast dà I'anglaise. l'anglaise. recipe for for Larnb's

Arrange in in aa crown crown on on aa dish. dish. Fill Fill the middle of Arrange the middle of the dish the dish garnish indicated. with the the garnish indicated. Surround Surround with with aa border with border of of thickened veal veal stock. stock. thickened Garnishes sui/able suitable for breast inin breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Green Green Garnishes for breas/ vegetables blended purees of blended with with butter butter or or cream; cream; purées various vegetables of various vegetables; spinach, pur6e; rice spinach, leaf leaf or pilaf or or purée; rice pilaf risotto; vegetables; or risotto; pasta products products with various pasta with butter butter or or dd /'ilalienne, I'italienne, new new various potatoes in glazed, or in butter; carrots, carrots, glazed, la Vichy. Vichy. or cid la potatoes Lamb's breast breast ili la la diable. diable. POITRINE ForrRrNE D'AGNEAU o'^l,cNe.au ÀA LA Lamb's LA, DIABLE -- Braise Braise the the breast cook itit in breast or or cook in aa !ittle little white white stock. stock. DIABLE Drain, and and remove remove ail all the rib bones. Leave the rib Leave to cool under under aa to cool Drain, press. Cut into rectangular pieces, pieces, spread Cut into spread these press. these with with musmuspinch of pepper. Dip and aa pinch of cayenne cayenne pepper. Dip in in melted butter and and tard and Sprinkle with butter grill. butter and and cook cook on on aa low grill. breadcrumbs. Sprinkle in aa circle circle on dish, and garnish garnish with on aa dish, with watercress. Arrange in (see SAUCE). Serve with Diable sauce (see SAUCE). Serve porrRrNE D'AGNEAU Epigrammes of lamb's breast. of lamb's breast. POITRINE D'AcNrau EN EN Épigrammes fprcn.lums -- Braise aa lamb's lamb's breast or or poach it in in very little little ÉPIGRAMMES white stock. stock. Drain, bone, bone, and and cool cool under aa press. white into heart-shaped pieces of Cut into heart-shaped pieces of uniforrn uniform size. size. Dip Dip in in egg Cut egg and breaderumbs. breadcrumbs. and At the same same time dip in egg egg and breadcrumbs aa number of At of similar in in shape shape and size to the pieces of breast. lamb chops, similar pieces of breast under aa low grill Cook the chops and and the pieees grill or Cook saut6 them bath both in butter. sauté Arrange crown on a long dish. Decorate the end bones Arrange in a erown paper frills. garnish in the middle with paper frills. Put the recommended recommended garnish with of the dish. dish. Pour aa few few tablespoons (see tablespoons of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see on the ipigrammes, or the épigrammes, left over or the stock left over from SAUCE) on the stock braising the breast, boiled down and strained. Garnishes sui/able suitable for ipigrammes of of lamb. lamb. Ail All those those Garnishes for épigrammes recommended noisettes. recommended elsewhere for lamb chops or noiselles. Sfitred breast r,mcn -- Sht Slit Stutred breast of lamb. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AGNEAU FARCIE pockets. Fill of breast to the Fill them the pieces pieces of to form fonn pockets. them with with fine forcemeat bound with an egg. Sew up the opening. opening. Wrap Wrap the pieces in in thin in a of bacon. bacon. Braise Braise them them in a small pieces thin rashers rashers of quantity of Jiquid. liquid. quantity Drain and glaze. on aa dish Drain the pieces. Unwrap and glaze. Arrange Arrange on and as indicated. Sprinkle with strained pan and garnish gamish as indicated. Sprinkle with the the strained juices. juices. Stuffed breast of lamb can be served with all garnishes Stu/fed breast of ail the garnishes recommended reeommended for for pieces pieces of of braised braised lamb or mutton. Lamb chops. chopo. cOrsrnrrEs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU - Rib lamb chops chops are cut In France cdtelettes and and cut from the rib rib roast. roast.ln France they they are are called ca lied côtelettes in in England they are called cutlets. cutlets. Loin lamb lamb chops are cut eut from the the loin and are known in French as c6tes.In côtes. ln England they they are known known as lamb chops. chops. Chops are most often grilled, grilled, but all aIl preparations preparations recommended mended in in the following following recipes are suitable for rib chops chops (cutlets) (cutlets) or or lamb chops chops cut from from the the loin. They They can be be served with the garnishes gamishes recommended for Mutton MullOn catlets CUI lets with any of the (see (sec MUTTON). M UTTON). Most Most frequently frequently these these garnishes gamishes consist consist of of a green asparagus tips, tips, etc. etc. green vegetable, vegetable, such as as beans, beans, peas, peas, asparagus dressed d ressed with wi th butter. bu !ter. Lamb chops Ià l'ancienne. l'ancienne. c6tersrrrs CÔTELETTF.S D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A À L'ANL'ANcIENNE CŒNNE -- Fry Fry the the chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in a crown on aa dish. Garnish the the middle with with a a ragofrt ragoût of of lambs' lambs' sweetdish. Garnish breads, breads, cocks' combs and kidneys, kidneys, truffies trumes and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound bound wth with Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and cream. cream. Dilute Dilute juices with the the pan panjuices with Madeira, Madeira, sherry sherry or or other other similar similar wine, wine, add add aa little little light Iight Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE) SAUCE) and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. Garnish Gamish the the bones bones with with paper paper frills. frills. Lamb Lamb chops chops ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. c0relerrEs CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A À t'^LNGL'ANGLAISE LAISE -- These These are are prepared prepared in in two two ways: ways: Grilled. Grilled. Season Season the the chops, chops, dip dip in in melted melted butter butter and and breadbreadcrumbs cnlmbs and and grill grill or or broil. broil. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish. dish. Garnish Gamish with with grilled grilled strips strips or or rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, boiled boiled potatoes potatoes and and watercress. watercress.

*

536 536

LAMB Sautied. Sautéed. Dip Dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and saut6 sauté in clarified butter. Arrange sprinkle Arrange in a crown on a dish and sprinkle with Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). with .llorbette Lrmb Lamb chops chops in in aspic jelly. jelly. cdrnrerrEs CÔTELETTES u'l,cNE,q,u D'AGNEAU A À Le LA cel,6n a large lamb lamb loin, neatly trimmed, in very GELÉE -- Braise a little court-bouillon (q.v.). Allow to to cool in its own strained little court-bouillon juices. juices. Drain and glaze with Drain and cut cut into into chops. chops. Dry Dry them them and with jelly. jelly. (The (The pan pan juices juices left left over over from from braising braising the the cutlets should be be added added to to the the jelly jelly before before its its clarification.) clarification.) Arrange Arrange the the chops chops in in aa turban turban on on a dish. Garnish with chopped jelly, jelly, hardhardboiled cut into quarters, lettuce lettuce hearts, hearts, or with with mixed boiled eggs eggs cut salads. or, as salads. Serve Serve with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise or or Tartare Tartare sauce sauce or, as is is customary customary in in England, England, with with Mint Mint sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE, SA UCE,

Lamb chops conn -- Coat the chops Conti. cdrBrnrrns CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU CONTI chops chops on on both both sides sides with with a a mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of vegetables finely chopped and cooked in butter. Dip in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry in clarified butter. Arrange Arrange in a crown on a dish, alternating with slices of ham ham cut in triangles and fried fried in butter. Garnish the the centre of the the dish dish with a a fairly thick Lentil purie purée (se (see PUREE). PURÉE). Surround Surround with with a a border border of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb Lamb chops chops in in cr6pinettes. crépinettes. cOTELETTBS CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU EN cnfplNsrrEs as Mutton chops in in cripinettes crépinettes (see (see CRÉPINETTES - Prepare as MUTTON), MUTION), or, instead of of braising braising them, fry them in butter before wrapping them in pieces of thin salt salt pork or pig's caul. cauJ. Lamb chops Dubarry. c6rrrnrrEs CÔTELETTES o'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU DUBARRv DUBARRY Grill or fry the chops and garnish with cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into florets and covered with Mornay Mornay sauce (se, (see SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with Parmesan Pannesan cheese. Brown Brown in the oven oyen or or under a grill. Lamb chops ià la financiire. financière. c6TELETTEs CÔTELETTES o'.e,cNBAU D'AGNEAU A À ul LA rN,c,NctiRE FINANCIÈRE -- Fry Fry the chops. Add Madeira to the pan and and finish finish off off the the sauce with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Arrange Arrange the the chops chops in a circle circle in a puff puff pastry shell (not too too raised) raised) and and garnish garnish the the middle middle with a a Ragofit Ragoût d à la financière (see RAGOOT). RAGOÛT). financiire IfIf there there is is no no time time to to make make aa pastry pastry shell, shell, the the chops chops can be arranged arranged in in a a crown, crown, putting putting each each on on a a heart-shaped heart-shaped crofiton croûton fried fried in in butter. butter. Lamb Lamb chops chops ià la frar4aise. française. cdrrrnrrrs CÔTELETTES o'lcNeeu D'AGNEAU A À ul LA FRAN9ATSE 12 cutlets, put them them under a press; press; when wh en FRANÇAISE -- 'Fry 12 coat with with chicken quenelle quenelle forcemeat. forcemeat. they are are cold, cold, coat they 'Put 'Put them them on on aa metal metal sheet sheet greased greased with with clarified butter butter and glaze with with egg. egg. Cook Cook in the the oven, oyen, painting painting them with with and melted butter from from time time to to time, time, until until nicely nicely golden. melted butter 'Prepare 'Prepare aa croustade croustade (q.v.) (q.v.) from from a pieoe piece of of bread bread about about l0 10 cm. cm. (4 (4 inches) inches) in in diameter, diameter, scooped scooped out out in in the the middle middle and and fried fried in in deep deep fat. fat. Put Put this this croustade croustade in in the the middle rniddle of of an entrde entrée dish, place place the the cutlets cutlets around around itit and and fill fill the the middle middle with with fried dish, lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads and and truffies. truffies. Glaze Glaze and and serve.' serve.' (Ic (La Grande Grande Cuisine Cuisine simplifie, simplifée, by by Robert, Robert, 1845.) 1845.) Lamb Lamb chops chops with with garnish. garnish. c6rer,srrEs CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU s,lur6Es SAUTÉES cARNIES GARNIES -- Season Season the the chops chops and and sautf sauté them them in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange them them in in aa crown crown on on aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with with vegetables vegetables or or any any other other garnish garnish recommended recommended below. below. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add add Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or veal veal stock, stock, boil boil down, down, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. or

Cold Cold sauces.'1 sauces.)

Instead Instead of of cooking cooking the the loin loin whole whole and and then then cutting cutting it, it, the the chops Chaudchops can can be be prepared prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Chaudfroid of of larnb lamb chops chops (see (see below). below). froid Bar-man Bar-man lamb lamb chops. chops. c6tnlrrrrs CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU BAR-MAN BAR-MAN -Grill Grill the the chops. chops. Garnish Garnish with with whole, whole, grilled grilled tomatoes tomatoes and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Put Put aa rasher rasher of ofgrilled grilled bacon bacon on on each each cutlet, cutlet, and and garnish garnish with with watercress. watercress. Lamb Lamb chops chops in in breadcrumbg breadcrumbs, garnished. gamished. cOrnrnrres CÔTELETIES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU peNfss PANÉES cARNrEs GARNIES -- Dip Dip the the chops chops in in egg egg and and breadbreadcrumbs crumbs ififthey they are are to to be be fried, fried, and and in in butter butter and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs ifif they the y are are to to be be grilled. grilled. Fry Fry in in clarified clarified butter, butter, or or cook cook under under the the grill grill on on low low heat. heat. Surround Surround with with the the recommended recommended garnish. garnish. All Ali the the garnishes garnishes for for fried fried lamb lamb chops chops are are applicable applicable to to lamb lamb chops chops in in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Lamb Lamb chops chops Brossard. Brossard. cOrersrrns CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU BRossARD BROSSARD -Dip Dip the the chops chops in in beaten beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with chopped chopped trufres. truffies. Saut6 Sauté in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in aa crown crown on on aa dish. Garnish the the middle middle of of the the dish dish with with mushrooms mushrooms dish. Garnish cooked cooked in in cream. cream. Put Put aa border border of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) round round the the chops. chops. Lamb Lamb chops chops Champvallon. Champvallon. cOrer,errrs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU cHAMpCHAMPvALLoN VALLON -- Choose Choose lower lower ribs ribs from from salt salt meadow meadow lamb, lamb, cut cut fairly fairly thick. thick. Proceed Proceed as as with with Mutton Mutton chops chops Champvallon Champvallon (see (see MUTTON. MUTTON).

Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of of lamb chops lambchops

Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of of lamb lamb chops. chops. c6rrrrrrrs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU EN EN cHAUD-FRop CHAUD-FROID-- Braise Braise thick thick chops chops in in very very little little liquid. liquid. Leave Leave to press in in the the stock stock in in which which they they were were to get get cold,under cold. under aa press braised, braised, strained strained and and with with surplus surplus fat fat removed. removed. When When they they are are quite quite cold, cold, drain, drain, trim, trim, and and cover coyer with with Chaud-froid Ch au djro id sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) using using the the pan pan juices juices in in which which the the cutlets cutlets were were cooked. cooked. Decorate Decorate with with pieces pieces of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg whites, whites, truffies, truffies, pickled pickled tongue, tongue, etc. etc. Glaze Glaze with with liquid liquid jelly jelly and and leave leave in in aa cold cold place place to to set. set. Lay Lay the the chops chops in in aa circle circle on on aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly. Chaud-froid of of lamb lamb chops chops can can jelly. Serve Serve with with mint mint sauce. sauce. Chaud-froid be be served served with with aa vegetable vegetable salad salad or or mixed mixed salad. salado

GriUed lamb lambchops chopsserved served with with rice rice Grilled

537 537

LAMB fried, can can be Lamb chops, be braised, chops, instead instead of of being fried, Lamb braised, allowed to get cold in the juices and then put into buttered papers. over from braising will be used for moistenThe juices left over &txelles (q.v.). ing the duxelles o'AcNerq,u À A LA t,l, la parisienne. CÔTELETTES c0rsrsrrEs D'AGNEAU Lamb Lamb chops àil la pARTstENNB then in in breadbeaten egg, then - Dip the chops inin beaten in clarified mixed with chopped chopped truffies. clarified crumbs crumbs mixed truffies. Cook in Garnish the middle of butter. Arrange in a crown in aa dish. Gamish butter. Arrange cream. Put aa border of the dish with mushrooms cooked in cream. asparagus tips dressed with butter round the chops. as})araglLls pfnnqrrre Lanb chops cOTELETTEs D'AGNEAU ni""","C..,."rD chops Périnette. P6rinette. CÔTELETTES mixed with and breadcrumbs mixed with finely Dip in egg egg and Dip the the chops in chopped cooked ham. Fry them in clarified butter. Arrange in a crown alternating with rows of of baby marrows Arrange alternating with (zucchini) eut in oil. oil. Garnish Garnish the cut in long slices and fried fried in (zucchini) in long slices and (see FONDUE) middle of the with aa Tomato fondue dish with fondue (see middle the dish mixed with sweet pimentos, cut in large dice and fried in oil. p'l,cNEl,u ÀA LA Lamb Lamb chops ili la la portugaise. CÔTELETTES cdreremEs D'AGNEAU poRrucArsE - Fry the lamb chops with chops in in butter. Garnish with butter. Garnish oven or under a very small, stuffed tomatoes, cooked cooked in the the oven juices witb pan juices grill. Dilute add aa little Dilute the with white white wine, wine, add the pan puree with tomato purée with aa finely or pounded c10ve clove of of finely chopped or pour tbis garlic blended in, and pour this sauce over the chops. pRINcEssE D'AGNBAU PRINCESSE Lamb chops princesse. CÔTELETTES cOrnlsrrEs D'AGNEAU describes the This name ~~,'VL'VV" the following two methods of prepara-

for

Garnishes lamb chops. chops. Green Green vegetables Garnishes suitable for lamb vegetables; butter or cream; various braised ve~~et,lbll~s cream; various dressed with butter potatoes prepared in various ways; pur6es purées of fresh or dried garnishes, vegetables; pasta products; rice; risotto; and and the garnishes, vegetables; simple or or mixed, mixed, recommended recommended for fil let steaks, for small small fillet simple and médaillons midaillozs of veal, noisettes tournedos, of veal, noisettes and tournedos, escalopes of

mutton or lamb. GriUed lamb chops chops garnished garnished with various vegetables. with variors Grilld lamb

pe LÉGUMES CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU cnrur,Ess GRILLÉES GARNIES cARNIES DE LEcuIrtEs cOTELETTES Season melted butter or oil, and cook Season the cutlets, brush with melted

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flame. Garnish Garnish with vegetables. Put paper under a moderate flame. friUs on end bones. frills

garnished with with various various green Grilled chops can be garnished Grilled chops can be (asparagus tips, vegetables, dressed with with butter butter or or cream cream (asparagus vegetables, young broad beans, French beans, beans, kidney beans, young kidney beans, beans, garden French prepared in peas, peas, etc.); etc.); potatoes prepared in different different ways; ways; braised pur6es of vegetables lettuce, endive, etc.); purées of fresh vegetables (celery, lettuce, vegetables; marrows (zucchini) or or aubergines aubergines cut in vegetables; small marrows dice and sautéed oil; tomatoes lightly sautéed sauteed in sauteed in butter or oi!; butter or in Brussels sprouts sprouts or or cauliflower sautéed saut6ed in or oil; oil; Brussels butter in butter; cucumbers cut into into uniform and cooked in uniform pieces and butter; butter; artichoke fried lightly in butter, etc. artichoke hearts fried Lamb chops à D'AcNEAU À A L'ITALIt'metIc6rersrrEs D'AGNEAU i l'italienne. I'italienne. CÔTELETTES ENNE - See I'italimne. See MUTION, MUTTON, Mutton chops àd l'italienne. ENNELamb D'AGNEAU MAINLamb chopo Maintenon. Maintenon. CÔTELETTES cdrsrerrEs D'AGNEAU TENON rENoN -- See chops Maintenon. See MUTTON, Mutton chops Lamb o'l,cNr.,q.u À A LA la maréchale. ln Lamb cbops marechale. CÔTELETTES c0relsrrEs D'AGNEAU chops à la MARÉCHALE -- Dip clarified u.lnfcuern Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in c1arified

i

tion:

and breadcrumbs, fry fry them l. Dip the in egg egg and them in in the chops chops in with Garnish with clarified butter, arrange in aa circle on aa dish. Gamish with butter and little bunches of asparagus tips dressed with butter and little bunches of tips dressed (sen sauce (see coarsely Serve with with Allemande Allemande sauce coarsely shredded truffies. Serve SAUCE) based based on concentrated mushroom stock. in aa circle. 2. circle. Cover 2. Cook the the chops chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in with with Allemande sauce sauce based based on on concentrated mushroom and garnish the stock. op and on each the Put aa sliver of truffie trufre on each ch chop stock. Put with asparagus tips dressed with middle dish with middle of the tips dressed with butter. the dish juices with Madeira and Dilute and thickened brown Dilute the the pan juices stock. stock. Pour this over the chops. o'lcNelu À.4, LA Lamb chops la romaine. romaine. CÔTELETTES r,A, Lamb chops ài la cdrsLsrrEs D'AGNEAU on aa RoMAIM -- Fry the chops in butter. Arrange in aa crown on ROMAINE alternating with with rows rows of crofitons of dish, dish, alternating of heart-shaped heart-shaped croûtons dish with fried in middle of the with Garnish the bread in butter. butter. Garnish the dish bread fried the middle potato balls, and tossed in butter tossed in cooked in small small potato balls, cooked butter and in conPour over over the centrated meat meat stock. stock. Pour the chops chops Romaine sauce centrated (see SAUCE) to which which the diluted with 22 table(see the pan juices, diluted (3 tablespoons) wine vinegar, have been added. spoons (3 been added. Lamb chopo Rmsini. CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU ROSSINI RossrNr - Fry c0rrt"errus D'AGNEAU and arrange arrange on Put on on each aa the chops in butter, and on aa dish. dish. Put gral fried in in butter and and 22 or 33 slivers trufle slice of foie gras slivers of truffle slicr of (or any with Madeira (or tossed in in butter. butter. Dilute the the pan juices with (se SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see similar wine), add add SOrne some Demi-glace similar wine), chops. boil down, strain strain and pour over the chops. u'AGNTAU A LA tn Lamb AGNEA U À Lamb chops la rouennaise. CÔTELETTES c0rnt.srres D' chops lii la RoUENNATSE -- Fry in butter. cooked, ROUENNAISE Fry the the chops chops in butter. When half cooked, onion add to the pan 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped onion shallots. lightly cooked in in butter, butter, and I teaspoon chopped shallots. alternating on aa dish, alternating Drain the chops. Arrange in aa crown crown on Pour cro0tons fried fried in in butter. with with rows rows of butter. Pour of heart-shaped croûtons over the the following sauce: sauce: (+ pint" li pan juices with 33 dl. lf cups) utps) Demi-glace Dilute the panjuices dl. (! remove from from the Boil for for 55 minutes, remove the sauce sauce (s* SAUCE). SAUCE). Boil heat and stir chicken livers livers rubbed rubbed through aa in 33 uncooked chicken stir in (3 tablespoons) fine with 22 tablespoons tablespoons) tablespoons (3 fine sieve, sieve, blended blended with Calvados. allowing to Put the sauce the sauce without allowing to boil. boil. Put Heat without Calvados. Heat gently and in 22 teaspoons through Heat gently and blend strainer. Heat blend in through aa strainer. butter. butter. o'acNE,q,u ÀA LA le Lamb la sarladaise. chops ài la cOrnurrns D'AGNEAU Lamb chops sarladaise. CÔTELETTES SARLADAlSE chops or fry them in butter. Arrange or fry them in sARLADATsE -- Grill the chops

butter. put on and put on each aa sliver crown, and in aa crown, Arrange the chops in of Garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips heated in butter. butter. Garnish of truffie heated (see dressed butter. Put sauce (see Put aa border of Demi-glace sauce dressed with with butter. SAUCE) mixed with Madeira Madeira and butter around the chops. p'lctlElu ÀA LA Le Lanb chops ilI la lrr mexicaine. CÔTELETTES c0rnr,srrEs D'AGNEAU MEXICAINE MEXIcAINE -- Fry the chops in butter. Arrange in a crown on aa dish with bananas cut in in slices, middle with dish and and garnish the the middle bananas cut dipped in batter and fried. (for 66 chops) 22 tablespoons Add Add to tablespoons (3 to the the pan juices (for pinq scant cup) tablespoons) wine vinegar. Pour in 2 dl. (* pint, brown brown veal stock. Simmer to thicken. Add to it the peel of 1I and orange, well drained, drained, and rinsed in in cold cold water, water, well orange, blanched, rinsed the chops. finely shredded. Pour over the Le MINUTELrn[JTE c6rnr,nrrrs D'AcNEAU ÀA LA Minute lamb chopc. CÔTELETTES in Beat the chops flat and season. Sauté Saut6 as briskly as possible in sizzling butter. Arrange in a crown. Pour over the chops the butter left in in juice and the and sorne lemon juice with aa dash dash of of lemon some chopped the pan, with parsley added to it. D'AGNEAU MONMoNCOTTLETTES D'AGNEAU Lrmb chops Montrouge. CÔTELETTES TROUGE and fry fry in in clarified egg and breadcrumbs and TRoucE -- Dip in egg butter. dish. Garnish Garnish the the middle on aa dish. in aa crown crown on Arrange in butter. Arrange (see PUREE). Put purde (see with with fairly thick thick Mushroom purée Put aa (see SAUCE) around border border of buttered Demi-glace sauce sauce (see the chops. Lamb Lamb cbops chops Paul Paul Mounet Mounet CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAu PAUL IAUL cdreI,nrrrs D'AGNEAU MOUNET goose fat. MoUNET -- Fry 6 6 chops in goose fat. Arrange them in a crown, hpl'rt .. "hn,>t1 cro0tons. alternating altemating with rows of fried fried heart-shaped Put into into the the pan 22 tablespoons (3 tab,lesIPOc)fls) tablespoons) Bayonne ham drained, dried, and finely which has ham which has been blanched, drained, shredded. When the ham is is lightly lightly browned the ham shredded. When browned add 2 tablecdpes or caps, spoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) shredded cèpes or mushroom caps, and saut6lightly. Add 2 c10ves cloves of garlic, also finely chopped. chopped. ($ pint, vinegar, add Dilute with 1I tablespoon wine wine vinegar, add 22 dl. (t U CE). Demi-glace sauce (see SA scant cup) tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured Demi-glace SAUCE). Cook for 5 minutes. Pour over over the chops. papillotes. CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU EN Lamb chops en papillotes. cOrsr,rrrEs D'AGNEAU EN pApILLorEs described in recipe for for Veal Veal in the the recipe - Prepare asas described chops en papillote (see VEAL). VEAL).

538

LAMB LAMB in in a a ring ring on on a a layer layer of of Potatoes Potatoes d à la la

Fricass6e Fricassée of of lamb. 18mb. rnrclssm FRICASsÉE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - This is the same same as the second recipe for Blanquette of larnb above. above. Lamb's Lamb's head à I'6cossaisc. rBre o'lcNEAU A, À I'fcossnsn L'ÉCOSSAISE -

sarladalse sarladaise (see (see POPO-

TATOES). T ATOES). Pour Pour around around the the potatoes several several tablespoons tablespoons of of Pirigueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE).

i

fJO"""'biJY

Lamb chops soubise. CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU souBrsE SOUBISE -- Grill soubise. c6rnlnrrrs or fry the chops. Arrange in a crown. Garnish orfrythe Gamish with with aa fairly fairly tlick thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Lamb Lamb chops cbops Talleyrand. TaUe'VI'and. c6rsrnrrEs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU TALLEvTALLEYRAND Sauté the chops in in butter. butter. Arrange in in a crown. crown. RAND - Saute Garnish Gamish the the middle of the the dish dish with with aa fairly thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Pour Pour over over the the chops chops the followirrg following soubise (see sauce: sauce : In In the the butter butter left left over over in in the the pan, pan, lightly lightly fry diced mushmushrooms rooms and and diced diced truffes. truffies. Dilute Dilute with with sherry sherry and and add thick thick fresh fresh cream. cream. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments moments and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. Lamb Lamb chopo chops à la la Toulouse. Toulouse. cOTELETTES CÔTELETTES o'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A À L.q. LA ToulousEglazn in TOULOUSE - Braise Braise the the chops chops and glaze in the the oven. oyen. Boil Boil down down the the stock stock until until thick thick and and add add to to it it 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Madeira. Madeira. Arrange the the chops chops in in aa slightly slightly raised raised puff puff pastry pastry shell shell (or in in aa circle on on cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter) butter) and and garnish garnish them, them, in in the Ragoût d à la toulousaine toulousaine (see (see RAGOOT). RAGOÛT). the centre, centre, with Ragorfrt Sprinkle Sprinkle the the chops chops with with the the pan pan juices. juices. Put Put paper paper frills frills on end bones. bones. end Lamb Lamb chops chops à la la turque. turque. cdrnr,rrrrs CÔTELETTES o'.c,cNEeu D'AGNEAU A À LA, LA TUReUE TURQUE -- Fry Fry the the chops chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in aa circle circle on aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish the the middle middle of the the dish dish with Rice Rice pilaf pilaf d à la turEte turque (see (see PILAF). PILAF). Dilute Dilute the the pan juices juices with stock and Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se SAUCE), SAUCE), add aa pounded pounded clove c10ve of of garlic garlic and pour pour over over the chops. chops. and Lamb chops chops Villeroi. Villeroi. c6rersrrns CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU vrLLERor VILLEROI Lamb See MUTTON, MUTTON, Mutton Multon chops chops dà h la Villeroi. Villeroi. See Crépinettes of of lamb. 18mb. cnfpNnrrss CRÉPINETTES n'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -- Prepare Prepare like like Cr6pinettes r:n;nit:IPltp~ of ofpork pork (see (see PORK) PORK) using using lamb lamb salpicon salpicon (q.v.). (q.v.). Cripinettes of lamb lamb il la la p6rigourdine. périgourdine. cn6pNrrrss CRÉPINETTES Cr6pinettes of D'AGNEAU A À le LA pfnrcouRDrNE PÉRIGOURDINE - Flatten Flatten and and trim trim 6 6 lamb lamb D'AGNEAU cutlets, season season with with salt and and pepper, pepper, and braise. braise. Allow to cutlets, cool in in the the pan juices. juices. cool Prepare 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) finely finely pounded pounded Pork forcemeat (see Prepare FORCEMEATS), add add to to it it 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) foie gras, and 2 FORCEMEATS), Mix well. weIl. diced truffies. truffies. Mix diced Drain the the chops and and dry them off. Coat on both sides Drain with aa layer layer of of the above above forcemeat. toncenl1eat. Wrap each cutlet in a with thin piece piece of of pig's pig's caul caul or or salt salt pork, pork, making sure that that it it is is thin entirely closed. closed. entirely Brush the the cripinetfes crépinettes with with melted melted butter, butter, coat coat with with breadbreadBrush crumbs, and and cook cook under under aa low low flame. fiame. crumbs, Lamb curry. curry. CARI CARl D'AcNEic,u D'AGNEAU - Follow Follow directions directions for Lamb Curried mutton mutton (see (see MUTTON), MUTION), reducing reducing the the cooking cooking time time Curried slightly to to allow allow for for the the tenderness tende mess of of the the meat. meat. slightly Double of of lamb. lamb. EoUBLE DOUBLE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU -- This This is is aa joint joint comcomDouble prising the the two two legs of of the the animal. animal. You Vou can can either either roast roast or or prising pot-roast it. it. Garnish with with vegetables vegetables and and serve serve with with its own pot-roast gravy, clear c1ear or or thickened, thickened, depending on on vegetable vegetable chosen. chosen. ryavy, Cook for for l8 18 to to 20 20 minutes minutes per 500 g. g. (l (lIb.) 18 minutes minutes lb.) plus l8 Cook at 200"C. 200°C. (400"F., (400°F., Gas Gas Mark 6). at AlI the the garnishes recommended for for the the baron baron are are suitable suitable All for aa double of of lamb. lamb. for Filets mignons mignons of of lamb. lamb. FTLETS FILETS MIcNoNs MIGNONS D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -- Small Fileb pieces of of lean lean meat meat found found on the the bone bone of the the saddle. saddle. In pieces general, these these small small fillets fillets are are left left with with the the big big fillets fiUets of of the the general, saddle when when the the saddle saddle is is boned, boned, but but they they can can also be be prepresaddle pared separately. (See MUTTON, Filets Filets mignons of mutton.) pared Fillets of of lanb (U.S. loin of lanb). FrLErs D'acNEAU - Half Fillets of the the saddle, saddle, boned, rolled rolled and and secured secured with with string. It can can of be roasted, roasted, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or braised. braised. be Ali methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for for loin loin or or shoulder shoulder of All lamb are are applicable. applicable. lamb

Remove separately in Remove the the brains, brains, which which are are cooked cooked separately cour t-bouil lon (q.v.). court-bouillon Cook onions Cook the the 22 halves halves of of the head head in in water water witl with carrots, on ions and celery celery as as a pot-au-feu pot-au-feu (q.v.). (q.v.). (Cooking time time about 2

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hours.) hours.) Drain the head, put it in an ovenproof dish, brush with melted butter and and put put in a very hot hot oven. oyen. Serve with with a white white sauce to which I1 tablespoon chopped and and blanched blanched sage and the diced diced brains have been added. added. Stuffd Stuffed lamb's head head Ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. tErE TÊTE o'^r,cNEq,u D'AGNEAU rencrs FARcœ A À L'ANGLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Scald Scald the lamb's head and remove all ail bones. Fill FiU itit with a stuffing dà l'anglaise, made made of chopped suet and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, well seasoned seasoned and and mixed mixed with forcemeat made made from minced lamb's lamb's liver Iiver and bacon. bacon. Wrap the lamb's Jamb's head in a napkin and secure both ends with string. Brown Brown chopped bacon rinds, carrots and onions in butter in aa braising braising pan. Put in the head. Add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and and a clove. clove. Braise Braise for 30 minutes. Serve with Pascaline Pascaline sauce prepared as as follows: Toss Toss I1 chopped onion in 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter, and moisten with 2 dl. ($ (t pint, scant scant cup) white wine. butter, Boil down and add 3 dl. (+ (t pint, pi nt, lf It cups) white sauce. Bring bind with wi th 2 egg egg yolks and and add add 1 tablespoon to the boil, bind chopped, blanched blanched parsley, parsley, a dash of oflemonjuice pin ch lemon juice and a pinch chopped, of cayenne pepper. ofcayenne Lamb's kidney - See See OFFAL OFF AL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS. Lamb's GIGOT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - The best way to prepare Leg of lamb. crcor [eg of of lamb lamb is is to roast, pot-roast pot-roast or or braise braise it. This joint, when leg This jointo also be be boiled, boiled, according to the English English method. itit isis big, can also Roast, pot-roast pot-roast or boiled leg of lamb can be served with Roast, ail the garnishes gamishes recommended for for leg, leg, baron, double double or all shoulder of of mutton. shoulder see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average For cooking time see cooking times for roasts. roasted or potThe leg of baby or milk-fed lamb is either roasted roasted. roasted. of lamb lamb is served garnished garnished with watercress watercress and Roast leg of quarters quarters of of lemon and and accompanied by its own gravy. It can also be be served, as is customary customary in England, with Mint sauce also (see SAUCE, Cold Cold sauces). sauces). Leg of of lamb A il I'anglaise. l'anglaise. crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU A À r'.lucI.AlsE L'ANGLAISELeg Season a leg of lamb, trim and bone it almost completely. Wrap it in a a napkin, lightly buttered buttered and and sprinkled Wrap sprinkled with fiour. Secure Secure with string. flour. 2 nllJ""."'-JL1. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes Duroc" NoIsETrEs NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU DtrRoc DUROC - Proceed as for Lamb noisettes small noisettes chasseur. chasseur. Garnish Garnish witl with very smal! potato potato balls balls fried in butter. Sprinkle with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Lanb Lamb nofuettes noisettes à I'italienne. NorsETTBs NOISETTES D'AcNBAU D'AGNEAU A À L'ITALENM the noisettes in oil. L'n ALIENNE - Saut6 Sauté the oil. Arrange on on fried cro0tons croûtons and put on each noisette noisette a small smaU slice of lean ham fried fried in oil. oil. Serve with a a sauoe sauce made from from the the pan juices mixed with ltaliut Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb Saut6 Lamb noisettes Melba. Melba. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU MBLBA MELBA - Sauté ttre the noisettes noisettes in butter, arrange on on fried cro0tons, croûtons, garnish with braised lettuce hearts, or with small smaU tomatoes stuffed with a mixture of of chicken, truffies and mushrooms, bound bound with with Veloutd Velouté sauce (see (see SAUCE). Brown Brown in in the the oven oyen or under un der a grill. Serve with a sau@ sauce made from the pan juices mixed with Madeira Madeira and and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU MoNTMONTLamb noisettes Montpensier. NoIsETTEs PENSIER PENSIER - Saute Sauté the noisettes in in butter, butter, arrange on on fried the noisettes crofftons, croûtons, and and garnish with coarsely shredded shredded trufres and asparagus asparagus tips tips both fried fried in in butter. butter. Serve Serve with with a a sauce sauce made from the pan juices juices mixed with Madeira and and Demighce SAUCE). glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Lamb noisettes Nichette. Nichette. NorsETTEi NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU NrcrrETTE NICHETTE Lamb Grill the noisettes noisettes and put each on a cake made of Duchess potato (see (see POTATOES) cooked in the the oven until golden. Garnish Gamish with cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys. Put a grilled grilled mushroom room filled with grated horseradish on top of of each noisette. noisette. Serve Serve with Marrow Marrow sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb noisettes noisettes à la nigoise niçoise I. 1. Norsrrrrs NOISETTES D'aclrslu D'AGNEAU A À r,A LA NtgoIsE NIÇOISE - Saut6 Sauté the noisettes noisettes in oil and garnish dà la nigoise niçoise (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Serve with a sauce made from the pan juices juices diluted with white wine and and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal veal stock. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes à la nigoise niçoise II. Il. NorserrEs NOISETTES p',r.cNreu D'AGNEAU A À la LA NIgoIsE NIÇOISESauté the noisettes noisettes in oil oil and garnish gamish with with small small new - Saut6 potatoes tossed tossed in butter, butter, and and French beans beans in butter. butter. Put Put on

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542

LAMB LAMB

(3t

pieces. Brown in butter l| kg. (3* lb.) boned lamb into pieces. Cut It Season. with a carrot and an onion cut in quarters. Season. and put into a Remove the lamb with aa perforated spoon and Remove the recipe chosen. saut6 pan with the garnish indicated in the sauté juices with 22 dl. pint, scant cup) cup) white dt. (~ Dilute the pan juices $ pint, (i recipe, and and add add 44 dl. dl. (,f on recipe, wine, depending on wine or other wine, wine (6 tablepint, scant 2 cups) thickened brown stock and dl. (6 and 1I dl. pur6e. Strain Strain through fine through aa fine cup) tomato purée. spoons, scant scant t+ cup) spoons, and pour over the the lamb. strainer and (q.v,) and in the and finish cooking in the oven Add aa bouquet garni (q.v.) for 25 minutes with a lid on the pan. L'ANcIENNE o'lcNElu ÀA L'ANCIENNElamb I l'ancienne. I'ancienne. SAUTÉ sAur6 D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lambà Sautéed pieces and in butter. Add Add and sauté Bone and saut6 in and cut the lamb into pieces Bone half and half blanched and 125 g. (4 oz.) lambs' sweetbreads (soaked, blanched (8 oz.) g. (8 lightly 225 g. oz.) small in butter), small mushrooms lightly cooked in butter), 225 (4 oz.) cocks' g. (4 combs and and kidneys, kidneys, 125 g. cocks' combs and 125 tossed in butter, and pan with the pan cooked in a white court-bouillon (q.v.). Moisten with pint, Madeira, to which which scant cup) cup) Madeira, juices diluted with 2 dl. (t t, scant $ pin (see SAUCE) (+ pint, and 22 dl. dl. pint, li Veloutt sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and lf cups) cups) Velouté dl. (1 3 dl. added. have been pint, scant fresh cream cream have been added. cup) thick scant cup) thick fresh (t $ pint, gently for 20 20 minutes. minutes. and strain. simmer Season and strain. Leave to sim Season mer gently cro0tons fried fried in in butter. butter. heart-shaped croûtons Garnish with heart-shaped D'AcNEAU AUX At.rx seurE D'AGNEAU lamb with with artichokes. artichokes. SAUTÉ Sautéed SautH lamb (l+ lb.) g. (It lb.) neck neck or 750 g. or ARrrcHAUrs -- Fry Fry in in butter butter or or oil oil 750 ARTICHAUTS pieces. Season in pieces. Season with with salt salt and cut cut in boned and shoulder shoulder of of lamb, boned and cook cook until until done. done. and and pepper and and cut cut in in hearts, blanched blanched and Decorate with artichoke hearts, Decorate with 44 artichoke in butter and fried fried in butter or or oil. oil. large dice, or or sliced sliced and (6 tablespoons, pan juices with 1I dl. scant + cup) cup) dl. (6 tablespoons, scant Dilute the panjuices pint, scant add 22 dl. dl. $ pint, scant cup) cup) thickened thickened down, add white wine, wine, boil boil down, pour over chopped lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped veal veal stock and pour over the the lamb. stock and parsley. AUx D'AGNEAU AUX Sautéed lamb with aubergines. SAUTÉ s.turf D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb with aubergines. (3* lb.) and trimmed lamb's kg. (Ji lb.) boned boned and trimmed lamb's AUBERGINES AUBERcINEs -- Cut Cut 1ti kg. pepper and pieces. Season until and cook neck and pepper cook until neck into into pieces. Season with with salt salt and proportions. and oil equal proportions. in equal brown mixture of oil in brown in in aa mixture of butter butter and in aa shallow dish. Put Put on on top top When heap in shallow dish. When the lamb isis cooked, cooked, heap the lamb pieces and peeled, cut 33 small in pieces and fried fried in in oil. oil. Mix Mix cut in aubergines, peeled, small aubergines, juices with veal stock the pan juices brown veal stock with white white wine, wine, thickened thickened brown the pan garlic. pinch of pur6e, flavoured and flavoured with with aa pinch of chopped chopped garlic. and tomato tomato purée, pour over Boil lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the lamb. and pour over the Boil down, down, strain, strain, and chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Sautéed agaric. St. George's motels, St. Saut6ed lamb lamb with with cèpes, cipes, morels, George's agaric. SAUTÉ - Cook D'AGNEAUX AUX MoRILLES, MOUSSERONS MoussERoNsCook slur6 D'AGNEAUX lux CÈPES, ciirrs, MORILLES, the recipe for for sautéed sautied /amb lamb with with lamb as as described in the the recipe the lamb described in (8 oz.) g. (8 aubergines, aubergines by 250 g. cipes, aubergines, replacing replacing the by 250 oz.) cèpes, the aubergines morels agarics, fried fried in in butter butter or or oil. oil. morels or or St. St. George's George's agarics, Sautéed D'AGNEAU CHASSEUR Prolamb chasseur. chasseur. SAUTÉ SAUTE D'AGNEAU CHASSEUR -- ProSaut6ed lamb ceed given for recipe given for Sautéed Sautied veal veal ceed as as described described in in the the recipe chasseur (see VEAL). chasseur (see VEAL). Sautéed D'AcNEAU ÀA LA r,c, CRÈME cRtME -Saut6ed lamb lamb àI la la crème. cr&me. SAUTÉ sAure D'AGNEAU Bone pieces.Season and lamb into into pieces. Season with with salt salt and Bone and and cut cut the the lamb paprika paprika and and fry fry in in butter. butter. juices with Heap pan juices Dilute the with 21 2f dl. Heap on dish. Dilute the pan dl. on aa shallow shallow dish. (scant (scant tI pint, pint, generous generous cup) Boil down down by by one-third, one-third, cup) cream. cream. Boil i cup) add pour over (2 oz., g. (2 and pour lamb. add 50 strain, and over the the lamb. 50 g. oz.,* cup) butter, butter, strain, Sautéed D'AGNEAU AUX ALrxFINES FINES lamb aux herbes. SAUTÉ slur6 D'AGNEAU Sautffi lamb aux fines fines herbes. HERBES in the recipefor for Sautéed HERBEs -- Proceed as described Sautied Proceed as described in the recipe lambs (see below), adding to lambs àd la below), adding to the the sauce sauce 1I tabletablela minute minute (see spoon and 22 tablespoons tablespoons) chopped shallots shallots and tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) spoon chopped of parsley, chervil and tarragon. mixture of chervil and tarragon. of aa mixture of chopped chopped parsley, Sautéed D'AcNEAU ÀAL'INDIENNEI'INDENIIE lamb ài l'indienne. I'indienne. SAUTÉ slurf D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb Proceed l'inin the recipe for for Sautéed Sautied veal veal àd l'inProceed as as described described in the recipe dienne (see VEAL) dienne (see VEAL).. Sautéed I'itaHenne. SAUTÉ o'lcNreu ÀAL'ITALIENNEL'ITALIENNE Saut6ed lamb lamb àI l'italienne. slurf D'AGNEAU Proceed lamb àd lala recipefor for Sautéed Proceed as as described in the the recipe Santiedlamb described in minute (see below). pan juices with withwhite wine and and Dilute the whitewine minute (see below). Dilute the panjuices Italian (see SAUCE) Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE)..

dictionary, gives gives for the preparation of Pascaline Pascaline of lamb the the following following recipe, recipe, different different from that that given given by Plumerey: Plumerey: of lamb ià la royale. pAscALINE PASCALINE o'AcNreu D'AGNEAU A À L.l, LA Pascaline of Pascalire RoyALE ROY ALE - 'The custom of serving a lamb whole whole on on Easter Easter until the the time of Louis XVI. Sunday was kept in France until is how how the the dish dish was was prepared: prepared : This is This 'The of a six-month-old six-month-old lamb lamb was boned, the breast breast 'The neck of through and and the the shoulder shoulder bone bone broken broken and bone sawn sawn through bone of the legs were also trussed to to the the breast. breast. The The 2 shank shank bones of trussed sa me manner. broken and and fastened in the same broken 'It was stuffed with a forcemeat of pounded lamb, lamb, yolks hard-boiled eggs, eggs, stale fines chopped fnes of hard-boiled stale breadcrumbs and chopped seasoned with with 4 spices. spices. herbes, and seasoned herbes, fiesh was carefully larded and put to roast before a 'The flesh big fire. It was served whole, as as a separate course, after the a ragoût a green green sauce ragofrt of truffi.es truffies sauce or on on a soup, either with a ham jelly.' cooked in ham Pâté of of lamb lamb tà la perigourdine périgourdine -- See P0t6 PATE. See PÂTÉ. p'r,cNEitu A la languedocienne. ToURTE TOURTE D'AGNEAU À LA pie Ià la Ll Lamb pie LANGUEDOCIENNE -- Puff Puff pastry pastry pie with with a fiJling filling of of smalliamb small lamb LANGUEDocTrNNE noisettes sautéed noisettes saut6ed in butter; salsify cooked in Court-bouillon IX (see COURT-BOUILLON), cut into pieces and tossed tossed in IX(see butter; sliced mushrooms; and blanched olives. olives. Put mushrooms; stoned stoned and these ingredients into a pastryJined pastry-lined dish on a layer of finely finely these (see FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see pounded Pork forcemeat with a FORCEMEAT). Dot with few dabs of butter. Cover with aa piece of rolled-out pastry, egg and 45 minutes. and bake in the oven oven for for 40 40 or 45 brush with egg Pour into the pie aa few tablespoons of boiled down Demiboiled down glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE), fiavoured glace flavoured with Madeira. Lamb pilaf. PILAF like Mutton Mutton pilaf Prepared like rner D'AGNEAU -- Prepared PILAF). (see PILAF). Lamb's pluck -- See AL or V ARIETY MEATS. OFFAL VARIETY See OFF Lamb parts which D'AcNEAU -- The The parts are ragoOt. RAGOÛT which are n^lco0r D'AGNEAU Lamb ragoût. most suitable ribs, neck, shoulder and and are lower ribs, suitable for this dish are breast. breast. Ragoût (A A BLANC nrlxc (À I'anglaise. RAGOÛT RAc,otT D'AGNEAU À Ragofft of lamb à i l'anglaise. L'ANGLAISE) g. pan, in layers, 750 750 g. r',lNcrusr) -- Put Put into into aa pan, in alternate alternate layers, 01 (l+ lb.) pieces and medium-sized sliced lb.) lamb lamb cut in pieces and 33 medium-sized sliced cut in potatoes mixed potatoes onions.. chopped onions mixed with medium-sized chopped with 22 medium-sized Season, gorni (q.v.). (q.v.). Pour in enough water water Season, and add aa bouquet bouquet garni or light fairly briskly with aa light stock to cover the meat. Cook Cook fairly the meat. lid lid on on the pan. Heap in aa deep parsley. and sprinkle chopped parsley. deep dish dish and sprinkle with chopped Ragoût o'lcxeau ÀA LA la bonne RAcofr D'AGNEAU rA, bonne femme. femme. RAGOÛT Ragofit of lamb àI la BONNE g. (l* lb.) lb.) lamb lamb in in clarified clarified fat, fat, BoNNE FEMME FEMME -- Brown Brown 750 750 g. and pinch of and aa pinch sugar. Sprinkle Sprinkle of sugar. and season season with salt, salt, pepper and with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) lightly. flour and and brown brown lightly. tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour Moisten with if litre O~ (l$ pints, pints, li lt pints) water, water, add add aa bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.) and garlic. clove of of garlic. and 1 crushed clove I crushed Cook with aa lid on Drain the lamb, for 40 40 minutes. minutes. Drain the lamb, on the the pan for trim, pan. pieces back in the back in and put the the pan. trim, and the pieces Add 500 (18 oz., potato balls and 12 12 small g. (18 cups) small 500 g. o2.,33 cups) balls and small small potato onions pan for lid on for lightly fried in in butter. with aa lid on the the pan onions lightly butter. Cook Cook witb 40 (3 tablespoons) 40 to 45 minutes. minutes. 22 tablespoons tablespoons) tomato tomato to 45 tablespoons (3 sauce can he be added. added. sauce can Ali (q.v.) can given for ragofrts given for mutton mutton (q.v.) can he be used used for for All the the ragoûts lamb. lamb. Rib (U.S.) -- See lamb. roast of lamb (U.S.) Loin of of lamb. Rib roast of lamb Se Loin Saddle le of o'.l,cNEeu -- The The sadd lamb can can of lamb, SELLE snLLE D'AGNEAU saddle of lamb Saddle oflamb. be prepared by pot-roasting or like Saddle Saddle be prepared roasting, pot-roasting or braising, braising, like by roasting, of (see MUTTON). garnishes recommended recommended mutton (see All the the garnishes of mutton MUTTON). Ali for for mutton mutton can applied to to it. it. can he be applied The roasted or either roasted or milk-fed lamb lamb isis either The saddle saddle of baby or or milk-fed of baby pot-roasted. le usually pot-roasted. This remains attached attached to to two two This sadd usually remains saddle legs joint known known as as the legs of the animal, animal, which which constitutes constitutes the the joint the of the baron baron of lamb. of lamb. Sautéed D'AcNEAU -- Prepared Prepared from from the Saut6ed lamb. lamb. SAUTÉ s.lur6 D'AGNEAU the same same parts parts of are used for ragoûts. ragofits. of the the animal animal as as are used for

I~,rI spoon, and put put them in a pan with 250 g. g. (8 oz.) perforated mushrooms mushrooms which which have have been been sliced sliced and and lightly tossed tossed in butter. Add Add fresh fresh crfflm cream seasoned with paprika paprika to the sauce sauce left in the the first pan. pan. Boil down, strain, slrain, and and pour over the lamb. Simmer gently with a lid on the Ihe pan for 25 minutes. Saut6ed SAUTÉ D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU pARMENTTER PARMENTIER Sllutéed lamb Parmentier. s.lur6 Cook Cook the meat meat and and sauce sauce as as described descdbed in in the the recipe for Sautied Sauléed lamb with with aubergines, replacing replacîng the aubergines aubergines with 44 diced diced potatoes fried fried in butter butter or or oil. oi]. 10mb à la la printaniCre. printanière. slurf SAUTÉ n'lcNnlu n'AGNEAU A À L.n LA Saut6ed lamb pnnraNtinr PRINTAN1ÈRE - Proceed as in the recipe for Sautded Sautéed veal dà la printaniire prinlanière (see VEAL). Sautéed lamb lamb with with tomatoes. tomatoes. slurf SAUTÉ D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU AUx AUX Saut6ed ToMATBS TOMATES - Proceed Proceed as as described in the the recipe for Sautied Sautéed lamb lamb with wilh artichokes, Grtichokes, replacing replaclng the the artichokes anichokes by 8 small peeled, seeded cookOO in butter or oil. ail. A grated seeded tomatoes, tomatoes, cooked clove of garlic can be he added. added. Shoulder of of lamb. Illmb. 6pe,urn ÉPAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -- All AU the recipes given for Shoulder of of mutton multon (see (see MUTTON) are applicable "IJIJ,,~.a.UlÇ to for Shoulder shoulders of of ordinary lamb. lamb. They can be be boned and stuffed before before cooking. Shoulders of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb and and Pauillac lamb lamb should he boned. boned. These are should not not be are grilled grilled or roasted, roasted, and and served with with various various garnishes. garnishes. Shoulder Shoulder of of lamb 18mb à I'albigeoise. fplurn ÉPAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A A L'ALBlcEoIsE. L'ALBIGEOISE. Bone Bone the the shoulder and stuff with forcemeat forcemeat made of sausage meat meat and minced pig's liver Iiver in equal propromade of portions, portions, flavoured ftavoured with with chopped garlic and parsley, parsJey, and well weil seasoned. seasoned. Roll Roll the the shoulder shoulder and secure secure with with string. string. Fry it it lightly lightly until until golden in in sizzling sizzling goose goose fat fat in in an eafthenware casserole. Srirround with quartered potatoes potatoes or whole new potatoes, fJV 1.'" 'LI'-", and 12lightly 12lightly blanched bJanched cloves cloves of of garlic. gadie. Season, liule goose goose fat and and cook cook in the the oven. aven. Season, sprinkle with wÎth a little ît Sprînkle with with chopped parsley. parsley, Serve Serve in in the the dish dish in in which which it Sprinkle was was cooked. of lamb à la boulang&re. tplur,n ÉPAULE D'AGNE.Lu D'AGNEAU A À ul LA Shoulder of Shoulder BoULANciRE BOULANGËRE - Bone Bone the the shoulder, season it il on the the inside, imide, roll, roll, and and secure secure with wîth string. string. Cook Cook for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in an earthenware in which whîch 3 to to 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons earthenware fireproof fireproof dish dish in butter butter have have been heen heated. heated. Surround Surround with with 3 sliced or quartered large potatoes and 3 onions, finely finely chopped chopped and and lightly Iightly fried fried in in butter. Season Season the the onions, garnish, garnish, sprinkle with the the butter butter left left over in in the the pan pan and and finish in the the oven, basting frequently. Just Just before before finish cooking in serving add add 4 tablespoons tab1espoons (* cup) thickened brown stock. stock. serving

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ÉPAULE fplurE

D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU snnlsfg BRA1SÉE -- Bone Bone a shoulder shoulder of of lamb. Season Season inside. inside,

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544

LAMPREY

Lamb on skewers Carrier) Lamb skewers or brochettes (Robert Carrier)

L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE - Line a Charlotte Charlotte mould with pie pastry. Put in

(see SOUPS tapioca cooked in it to to aa pur6e purée of fresh fresh peas peas (see tapioca Potage Lamballe). Lamballe). AND BROTHS, Potage

sweetbreads sweetbreads cooked in butter, and truffies and and mushrooms,

LAMBICK -- Highly intoxicating Belgian beer, beer, rather sour LAMBICK

Timbale of of lamb lamb ir à I'ancienne. l'ancienne. TIMBALE D'AGNEAU Timbale TIMBALE D'AGNslu

A À

it small lamb noisettes braised in court-bouillon (q.v.),lamb (q.v.), lamb

in taste. (See BEER.) BEER.)

all with Velouté Velouti sauce al! blended blended with sauce (see (see SAUCE) diluted with

LA MOTHE.SAINT-HERAYE MOTHE-SAINT-HÉRA YE -_ See LA SCE CHEESE. CHEESE.

cream Madeira. Alternate Alternate with layers of cream and flavoured with Madeira.

macaroni cooked in water and and blended with cream, butter and and grated cheese. cheese. These fillings must must be be completely completely cold before being put into into the the pie pie dish. dish. Cover Coyer the the dish dish with a pastry lid and decorate the top with pastry leaves. Ieaves. Make Make an opening to allow steam to escape and brush brush over over with beaten beaten egg. Bake Bake in a hot oven oyen for q 40 b to 45 minutes. Before serving, serving, pour pour into the pie through the opening, a few tablespoons of the Velouté Veloutd sauce. the sauce. Lamb's trotters (feeQ. (feet). pIEDs PIEDS D'AGNEAU - These These are are prepared as VARIETY as Sheep's trotters trotters (feet) (jeet) (see OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Vol-au-vent of lamb with tnffes truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms 1. VOLI. vorAU-VENT D'AGNEAU AUx AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES ET ET cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Fill Fili a vol-au-vent soon as as it it is is out of the the oven, oyen, with with a vol-au-vent case, case, as as soon ragofrt sweetbreads ragoût of braised thin noisettes of lamb, lamb sweetbreads cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and sliced truffies truffies and and mushrooms, all ail moistened with white brown thickened stock. white or brown Vol-au-vent of lamb with ftufles truffles and mushrooms mushrooms II. n. vorVOLAU-vENT TRUFFES ET cHAMpIGNoNs AU-VENT D'AGNEAU Aux AUX TRUFFES CHAMPIGNONS - Prepare Prepare a vol-au-venl vol-au-vent case in the usual usual way. As soon as as it is removed removed from fil! with with a a ragofit ragoût of of lamb lamb sweetbreads sweetbreads from the the oven, oyen, fill braised in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), with trufres truffies and mushrooms mushrooms braised added, added, the whole blended blended with a piping hot Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

LAMPROIE - There three types types of edible LAMPREY. LAMrRoIE There are are three lamprey: the or sea-lamprey, sea-lamprey, the lamprey: the lampern larnpern or the lamprey-eel or

proper. river lamprey lamprey and the lamprey proper. The found in the Atlantic and the MediterThe lamprey-eel found and the ranean is higbly prized. prized. It is is similar to the eel in is the most highly general appearance, appearance, but but different from from it in in aa number of yellowish with brown markings, its dorsal details: its skin is yellowish fins are are spaced spaced along along its its back, back, and fins has seven and it has seven bronchial which form form two two vertical lines on either side side of its orifices which neck. In In spring, the lamprey-eels migrate migrate to to the the mouths mouths of spring, the rivers. rivers. They They are to be found in large numbers numbers in the Loire, Loire, the Rhône Gironde. Rh6ne and the Gironde. of the lamprey lamprey is delicate delicate but, being being very very fatty, it The flesh of is somewhat indigestible. indigestible. Lampreys of medium size are the most sought after, especially those caught in the mouths of rivers. so that that the the skin skin can be easily removed. Scald the the fish fish so Scald can be tbe manner in which it is to be cooked, cut it According to the into thick slices or leave it whole. Prepare according to the selected recipe. recipe. The lamprey can be cooked cooked in aa great great many many different different ways. The lamprey commonly it is stewed in wine (en matelote) flavoured flavoured Most commonly of the fish. All Ali recipes for eel (q.v.) (q .v.) are are suitable with the blood blood of with lamprey. for lamprey. Bordelaise (Bordearx (Bordeaux cookery). r,lupnon LAMPROIE A À Lamprey Ià la Bordelaise Lamprey BORDELAISE - Bleed Bleed a a medium-sized lamprey. lamprey. Keep the LA BoRDELAIsp

LAMBALLE -- Name given to various various dishes. It is usually LAMBALLE applied by adding consommé with wi th a pplied to a meat broth made by adding consomm6 545

LAMPSANA LAMPSANA blood blood aside to to flavour flavour the the sauce. sauce. Scald the fish and scrape off the the skin. Remove Remove the central central nerve. (To (To do this, this, cut off the tip tip of of the the lamprey's lamprey's tail, make an incision round the neck neck below the gills gills and, through through this opening, catch hold of of the below the nerve nerve and and pull puil it it out.) Cut Cut the the fish fish into into slices slices 55 crn. cm. (2 inches) inches) thick. Butter Butter a pan and and line line itit with with sliced sliced onions onions and carrots. carrots. Put Put in the slices slices of lamprey. lamprey. Place Place aa bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.\ (q.v.) and a clove of of garlic garlic in the the middle middle of of the the dish. dish. Season Season with salt salt and pepper. pepper. Moisten with with enough enough red red wine wine to to cover coyer the the fish. Boil for 12 minutes. Cook white leek Cook 12 12 slices slices of ofwhite leek with with 4 tablespoons tablespoons (l (t cup) cup) raw diced diced bacon bacon in butter butter in aa covered pan. Drain the slices of lamprey lamprey and and put put them them in in aa pan, pan, alternating alternating with the the slices slices of white white leek. leek. Make Make a roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) of of flour flour and butter. Moisten with with the the cooking cooking stock stock of of the the lamprey. lamprey. Cook Cook this sauce sauce for I155 minutes, minutes, strain, and and pour pour over over the the lamprey. lamprey. Simmer very slowly slowly until until the the fish fish is is cooked. cooked. Arrange Arrange the the fish on a serving serving dish and pour pour over over itit the the sauce sauce mixed mixed with with some sorne of of the the blood. blood. dish and Garnish Gamish with with slices slices of of bread bread fried fried in butter. butter.

LAMPSANA" LAMPSAN~ NIPPLEWORT. NIPPLEWORT.

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LAMrSANE LAMPSANE - Plant of the

endive endive family, family, similar similar to to the the sow-thistle. sow-thistle. Its Its leaves leaves are eaten raw raw in in salad. salado Cooking Cooking turns turns them them bitter. bitter. Ambialet, Tarn Tarn (French (French Governnent Governmenl Tourist Tourisloffice) Ambialet, ofice)

LANGUE-DE-CHAT LANGUE-DE-CHAT (Cat's (Cat's tongue) tongue) -- In In the the view of of some sorne experts, name from its its shape -- thin, thin, experts, this this biscuit biscuit derives derives its its name

recognisable. ln In this this province, province, which which was was called recognisable. called Gallia

flat flat and and narrow, narrow, somewhat somewhat like like aa cat's cat's tongue tongue in in appearance. appearance. Langues-de-chat, which are crisp, crisp, dry dry biscuits, biscuits, can can be be made made Langues-de-chat,whichare and and flavoured flavoured in in various various ways. ways. Only Only biscuits biscuits made made according according to to one one of of the the recipes recipes given given below, below, however, however, can can properly properly be be called lqngues-de-chat. langues-de-chat. called These These keep keep for for a a long long time time and and are are served served with some sorne liqueurs liqueurs and and sparkling sparkling wines. wines. They They are are also also served served with with iced iced and used used as as an an ingredient ingredient of various various sweets (desserts) (desserts) and sweets puddings. puddings. Langue-de-chat 1 - Work Work together, together, in in aa bowl, bowl, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., Langue-de-chat cups) fine fine sugar sugar and 2t 21 dl. dl. (scant (scant 1 pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) 22 cups) fresh cream. cream. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, I1 fresh tablespoon vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured fine fine sugar, sugar, and, and, when when the the tablespoon mixture isis quite quite smooth, smooth, 55 stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten egg egg whites. whites. mixture Rub aa metal metal baking baking sheet sheet with with pure pure w{D( wax or or line line with with heavy heavy Rub paper and, and, using using aa forcing-bag forcing-bag with with aa round round nozzle, waxed paper waxed the mixture mixture to to make make little little strips strips about about 4 2i cm..(l (1 inch) inch) pipe the pipe apart, so so that that they they will will not not run run into into one one another another during during apart, baking. baking. Bakein in aa hot hot oven oyen for for about about 88 minutes. minutes. Bake Langue-de-chat IIfi -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 125 125 g. g. @l (41 oz., oz., generous generous 1 Langue-dechat cup) butter, butter, 125 125 g. g. (4 (41 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sieved sieved flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. cup) (4 (4 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., + cup) cup) vanillavan illaflavoured fine fine sugar,2 sugar, 2 eggs. eggs. flavoured Cream the the butter butter in in aa warmed warmed bowl. bowl. Add Add the the Method. Cream Method. sugar and and vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. sugar. Work Work the the mixture mixture for for 22 sugar and mix mix in in the the eggs, eggs, one one at at aa time. time. Add Add the the sieved sieved minutes, and minutes, flour. flour. onto aa baking baking sheet sheet as as indicated indicated above. above. Pipe this this mixture mixture onto Pipe

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Narbonensis under the Romans, was invented the ragoût Narbonensis ragofit of was the the prototype of that mutton with white beans which was robust dish known as as cassoulet. cassoulet. robust The Languedoc Languedoc larder larder is is well weIl stocked. stocked. In In the the southThe western provinces of of France are to be be found excellent excellent meat, meat, western poultry, and good winged and ground game. The succulent poultry, finest foie foie gras gras is made in this region from goose and· finest and duck and their their indispensable foil, foil, the the truffie, truffie, the the 'subterliver and ranean empress' empress' as as it was called by by the the Marquis de de Cussy. Cussy. ranean To these these delicacies delicacies must be be added excellent saltwater and To freshwater fish. fish. Among the latter latter are the the trout of the the icy freshwater Pyrenean streams, streams, the the perch, bream, tench, tench, pike, etc., etc., which which Pyrenean are found found in abundance in the Garonne, Garonne, Aridge, Ariège, Tarn and are Aude rivers. rivers. Aude The Languedoc Languedoc kitchen kitchen gardens are are well weil stocked stocked with The and the the orchards orchards with delicious delicious fruit. Languedoc vegetables and vegetables also has has its its vineyards vineyards and produces produces excellent excellent wine. also With such such natural natura! resources, resources, it is is no Culinary specialities specialities -- With Qnlinsry wonderthat the caisine cuisine of of Languedoc Languedoc is is excellent excellent and and that that the the wonder that the large number number of of succulent succulent specialities. specialities. region has has aa large region Here, first, first, are are some sorne typical typical Languedoc Languedoc broths broths and and soups: soups: Here, Pot-au-feu dà la la poulefarcre poulefarcie (stuffed chicken chicken hotpot); hotpot); soup soup au au Pot-au-feu farci; pot-au-fat pot-au-feu ahigeois albigeois (with (wi th stuffed stuffed goose gooseneck); pot-auneck); pot-aufarci; feu carcassonnais carcassonnais (with ribs of of beef, beef, neck neck of of mutton, lean lean fan bacon, stuffed stuffed cabbage cabbage and and white white beans); beans); ouillade ouillade catalan; catalan; bacon, (Rousbraou boufat bouffat de de Cerdagne; boullinade boul/inade des des pAcheurs pêcheurs (Rousbraou sillon); bouillabaisse bouillabaisse Catalane Catalane (which (which is is nothing nothing like like the the sillon); bouillabaisse of of Marseille'1; Marseille); soupe soupe aux aux poissons de Site Sète (fish poissons de bouillabaisse soup); soupe soupe aux aux clovisses clovisses (cockle (cockle soup); soup); soupe soupe dà l'ail l'ail (garlic soup); soup); soupe soupe dà Ia la courge courge (pumpkin (pumpkin soup); soup); soupe soupe aux aux choux choux soup); soup); soupe soupe oux aux tomates tomates (tomato (tomato soup); soup); tourin; tour in ; (cabbage soup); (cabbage and succulent succulent garbure. garbure. and Among the the hors-d'ouvre hors-d'œuvre of of the the area area are: Black Mountain Mountain Among are; Black and Aridge Ariège ham; ham; sausages sausages from from Luchon, Luchon, Toulouse, Toulouse, the the and Black Mountain Mountain and and Aridge; Ariège; frittons frittons or or grattons grattons of of pork, pork, Black goose and and turkey; turkey; dried dried ftche fiche with with radishes radishes from from Tarn; Tarn; goose melsat from from Dourgne; Dourgne; Ianguettes languettes (little (little tongues) tongues) from from Tarn; Tarn; melsat anchovy pdti pâté from from Collioure; Collioure; little !ittle pdtis pâtés of of P6zenas Pézenas or or anchovy Béziers (which (which are are also also eaten eaten as as aa dessert); dessert); anchoiade; an cho iade ; fresh B6ziers fresh la croque-au-sel; croque-au-sel; fresh fresh figs. figs. white beans beans dà la white Among the the special special egg egg dishes dishes of ofLanguedoc Languedoc are: are: Omelettes Omelettes Among la cansaldo; cansaldo; omelettes omelettes with with ham, ham, blood, blood, wild wild asparagus asparagus tips, tips, dà Ia hop shoots shoots (called (called omelette omelelle dà la la Saint-Jean), Saint-Jean), agaric, agaric, peppers, peppers, hop

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LANGUEDOC, ROUSSILLON, ROUSSILLON, COMTE COMTÉ DE DE FOD( FOIX LANGUEDOC, The land land of ofOc Oc (Languedoc) (Languedoc) isis aa district district which which for for centuries centuries The has had had aa tradition tradition of of fine fine cooking. cooking. Its Its people people have have always always has connoisseurs of of good good food. food. Not Not only only have have they they proprobeen connoisseurs been vided substantial substantial dishes dishes in in abundance, abundance, such such as as the the famous famous vided cassoulet (q.v.) (q.v.) of of Castelnaudary Castelnaudary and and the the daube daube languelanguecassoulet but also also subtly subtly flavoured flavoured and and delicate delicate appetisers appetisers docienne, but docienne, suchas as the thepdti pâté defoie defoie gras gras with with truffies, truffies, gem gem of ofthe the LangueLanguesuch docculinary culinary repertoire, repertoire, which which has has made made famous famous throughout throughout doc the world world the the names names of of Toulouse, Toulouse, Cazdres, Cazères, Albi Albi and and other other the citieswhere wherefor for so so long long these these delicacies delicacieshave have been been made. made. cities In Languedoc, Languedoc, the the Roman Roman and and Arab Arab influences influences which which In gradually determined determined the the character character of of its its cooking cooking are are still still gradually 546 s46

LANGUEDOC with olives; head with lamb's sweetbread pie with with salsify; calf s head sweetbread pie calf s brain en calfs m papillote; veal kidneys d la catalane. agaric, salsify, poultry pie pie .with with agaric, Fricassée of Fricasste of chicken; chicken; poultry truffied capon; capon; stuffed chicken.. chicken; truffled mushrooms and truffles.. truffies; stuffed mushrooms and (stuffed with with sa sausage, olives, la carcassonnaise (stuffed usage, olives, capon capon àd la chicken livers, the neck stuffed with garlic bread, roasted on turkey with with olives olives;.. truffied young turkey; young turkey the the spit); spit); truffled of duck; pigeon àd duck with olives; salmi of duck àd la bigarade; duck goose in blood; blood; go ose with la la catalane; compte of of pigeon; pigeon in salmi of gainea fowl ; chestnuts; ragofit of goose with celery ;'salmiofguineafowl; goose; sanguette of chicken chicken;; a/icuit aliait of chicken, turkey and goose; or sailAed with garlic and olives, or turkey turkey livers with with capers, olives, trufies, capers, grapes truffles, duck or goose with capers, lemon; foie gras of lemon; foie of duck wine, in pies, pies, charcoal-grilled, potted; Toulouse, Frontignan wine, Cazères pâtés de foie foie gras with truffies;. pickled and Luchon Luchon pdtds Cazdres and goose and duck; partrrdge la catalane; salmi of partridge; goose partridge àd la

pine pine kernels, garlic, tomatoes and Quercy poached or Quercy truffies; poached

poached or fried eggs with ham, tomatoes, aubergines, garlic; poached cansalado, fried eggs àd la cansalado. fried are made made from saltwater and The following dishes are and freshwater fish, kinds, snails and frogs: all kinds, water fish, shellfish of ail frogs: Cod àd snails and I'ailloli; ragoût ragofit of cod à d la h carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; cod of cod cod à d la persillade l'ailloli; (with parsley); parsley); brandade of cod; cod; cod bouillabaisse; shad à (with d on the spit ;. lamprey en la persilhde; persillade .. stuffed shad on en matelote; matelote; tunny (tuna) fish catalane, with with olives olives or fricandeau of tunny fish àd la catalane, fricandeau (tuna) àd la palavasienne; river tunny (tuna) iver with anchovy; chopped tunny meuniire; river trout in court-bouillon; court-bouillon; small small fry trout àd la meunière; fry in court-bouillon; Eel àd la catalane; elver court-bouillon; fry; pike on elver fry; on the spit; matelotes of various freshwater civet of spiny sptny lobster freshwater fuh; fish; civet matelotes (Roussillon) ; freshwater crayfish in in court-bouillon; court-bouillon; mussels mussels (Roussillon); freshwater crayfish la ravigote; ravigote; mussels mussels àd la la catalane; catalane; mussels mussels with with rice; àd la cockles àd la la persillade; snails àd la la languedocienne, àd la persillade; snails cockles sommeroise; mourguettes mourguettes àd lodivoise, àd la narbonnaise, àd la sommeroise; lodévoise, h meridionale; meridiotule; frogs la frogs legs àd la persillade. Here are meat, poultry and game dishes of Here poultry and are sorne the meat, some of the d l'albigeoise, l'albigeoise, à d la carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; Languedoc: Daube ofbeef of beef à Languedoc: of estouffat estouffat of of beef beef àd la catalane; veal slices with agaric; roll of ragofit of of veal with olives; olives ; veal en persillade; ragoût m papillote; veal en persillade; veal with with sa salsify; ls ify ; pistache of mutton; gasconchump end of veal salsify; ragofit of of mutton; braised of mutton with sais nadc of ify ; ragoût nade braised leg of of with white beans; beans; leg of of mutton with garlic; Luchon mutton with lamb àd la Ia persillade; salted ewe persillade; blanewe;.. Toulouse Toulovse quarter of lamb quette of lamb; cutlets of milk-fed lamb leg of lamb en m culotte; leg quette ribs of pork lamb with with agaric; galimaufry of pork; lamb pork; ribs pork àd la persillade; ribs Iumbet of pork with ribs of pork en en papillotes; lumbet potatoes, cassoulets from Carcassonne, Carcassonne, Castelnaudary and Toulouse; estoufat of white white beans beans from from Carcassonne; sucking pig with saupiquet ariigeois (with white beans); beans); roast sucking piglet skins; I'albigeoise; tripe lripe àd la mode mode narbonnaise; narbonnaise; skins; tripe àd l'albigeoise; (H6rault); manouis (Hérault); (H6rault); tripe "vith with saffron; sffion; cabassols (Hérault); cabassols petarran Luchon; lamb's lamb's pluck la languedocienne; pluck àd la petarram of of Luchon;

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..-lr.-:;i:NV', HTE: gAR'oN:N.E;:l:.#lid,"m'toc" ".::::' ".--:,!:: -p l/^"-,*$]StEX; ii"' ..0.'. . *;il, (+EAaVLT .19,1"1bi)rurat - "qilea:ifi;.,{r:#edr",S*'-"^N-\ ",ni niurt:,mtnp~ hpigrammes. recipe, see For aa recipe, see LAMB, Breast style). Filets mutton en en chevreuil cheweuil (venison style). Fitets mignons mignons of of mution for as for Proceod as FILETS EN CHEVREUIL cHEvREUn -- proceed DE MOUTON MouroN EN FTLETs MIGNONS MrcNoNs DE (see BEEF). BEEF). venison style style (see en chevreuil, chevreuil, venison Beef filets mignons en MIGNoNS DE DE mutton FILETS FILETS MIGNONS of mution. Grilled filets mignons of season; baste baste fillets slightly. Season; the fillets MOUTON Cnrrr,ns - Flatten the Pour with coat with breadcrumbs. Pour oil and and coat melted butter or oil with melted butter or grill slowly. with Maitre Maitre Serve with melted and grill slowly. Serve over them them and melted butter butter over (see BUTTER, or any any d'hôlel butters) or Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound d'h6tel butter butter (see other meat. for grilled meat. other sauce sauce suitable suitable for FILEr DE DE MOUTON MouroN Fillet roast). FILET Fillet of mutton (U.S. Sirloin roast). of mution Name lengthwise. given to split lengthwise. Name given to the the half-saddle, split roasted, This can be be roasted, after boning. boning. ItIt can rolled and and tied This cut cut isis rolled tied after garnishes pot-roasted All garnishes rib or or shoulder. pot-roasted or as for for rib shoulder. Ali or braised, braised, as for of mutton. mutton. for fillet fillet of are suitable suitable for rib or for rib or shoulder shoulder are (of mutton The lamb) isisused of the the mutton or or lamb) usedof The termfilets mignons (of termfilets mignons two found under under the the saddle. saddle. meat found of meat two thin thin slivers slivers of Fillets DE FILET FILEr DE DE BRocHETTES DE skewers. BROCHETTES mutton on on skewers. Filleb of of mution MOUTON lamb into into mutton or or lamb loin of of mutton well-trimmed loin Cut aa well-trimmed MouroN -- Cut Thread these onskewers skewers theseon pieces about inch) thick. thick. Thread about 1-* cm. (* inch) alt.errlating hlanched dip piecc of lean bacon. Season,dip of lean bacon. Season, alternating with with"p. blanched pieces into sprinkle with white white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sprinkle cover with butter, coyer into melted butter, with grill. melted butter, and grill. with melted butter, and Pieces lightly tossed in tossed in mushrooms, Iightly and sliced sliced mushrooms, Pieces of of bacon, bacon, and butter, added. can also also be beadded. butter, can Proceeding bove, various disheson onskewers, variousdishes skewers, as described described aabove, Proceeding as such of or escalopes escalopes of livers, lamb's lamb's sweetbreads sweetbreads or as chicken chicken livers, such as calf's veal, lamboror veal, of beef, fillets of beef, mutton,lamb calf's sweetbreads,fiUets fillets (for the fillets of of latter omit omit the the bacon),fillets the latter fillets of of various various fish(for chicken, replaced prepared. Lean can bereplaced Lean bacon baconcan chicken, etc., etc.,can canbe be prepared. by does not notneed need to pieces of whichdoes tobe be ofsmoked smoked bacon, bacon, which bysquare square pieces blancbed. blanched. Fillets AUVIN vIN DEMOUTON MouroN AU rrrsrs DE red wme. wine. FILETS Filleb of of mution mutton inin red ROUGE with pieces.Season Seasonwith littlesquare fillets into into Iittle square pieces. RoucE - - Cut Cut the the fillets salt keeping slightly pepper. Cook slightly butter, keeping and pepper. Cook inin sizzling butter, salt and underdone generous 125g.g.(4oz., oz.,generous inside. Drain. Drain. Toss 125 on the theinside. underdoneon 22cups) Take butter.Take mushrooms inin the thesame samebutter. cups) thickly thickly sliced sliced mushrooms the meat. panand putthem with the themeat. andput them with outof ofthe thepan mushrooms out themushrooms Pour pan.Boil Boil pint,lil{ cups) red wine wineinto into the cups) red the pan. dl.(t(t pint, Pour 33dl.

the cutlets. cutlets. Drain and and remove the pork fat. fat. Glaze Glaze them. tbem. the Arrange in in a circle on a dish, and garnish as indicated. indicated. Boil Arrange over the dish. and strain the cooking cooking stock stock and pour pour over down and Prepared in this way, cutlets can be garnished with vegePrepared tables, tossed in butter butter or braised, braised, and served served with garnishes cy" ... n;~h,>~ tables, etc. (see as Chipolata, Forestiire, Forestière, Financiire, Financière, etc. (see GARsuch as NISHES). They They can can also also be be garnished garnished with with vegetable vegetable NISHES). prepared in different different ways, risotto, etc. purées, pasta prepared pur6es, Mution cutleb cutlets (chops) (chops) La La Varenne. Varenne. CÔTELETTES c0rslsrrEs DE Mutton cutlets. MOUTON LA vARENNE VARENNE -- Cut the medallions out of 6 cutlets. MouroN chop this meat meat with with I its weight of dry Duxelles Duxelles (q.v.), Finely chop chopped (3 tablespoons) butter, 2 teaspoons chopped 2 tablespoons (3 and pepper. pepper. Reshape Reshape the tbe cutlets cutlets with with this parsley, salt and in tbem back on the bone. bone. Dip the the cutlets in mixture, and put them and sauté egg and breadcrumbs and saut6 in clarified butter. Arrange with th very thick on a dish. Fill the middle of of the dish wi in aa circle on Mushroom purie purée (se (see PUREE), made made with the addition of with the of g. (4 oz., 2 cups) diced tossed in butter. butter. Make aa diced truffies tossed 100 g. (see SAUCE) ofaa few tablespoons tablespoons of sauce of SAUCE) Demi-glace sauce (see of Demi-glace cooked with witb Madeira. Madeira. Add butter and and strain. Pour over the dish. Mution cl.ltlets (chops) à la os la villageoise. CÔTELETTES c6rrl.nrtss DE Mutton cutlets (chops) MOUTON A À LA in their their vLLIcEoISE -- Braise and leave to cool in MouroN t,c. VILLAGEOISE pUItED with very concentrated stock. Make aa Soubise concentrated Soubise (see PURÉE) veal stock in butter. saut6ed in add sliced mushroolns sautéed sliced mushrooms veal and add stock and each cutlet. cutlet. Proone side side of each Heap sorne mixture on on one some of this this mixture ceed as as for Mutton Mutton cutlets Maintenon. Mution DE la Villeroi. Villeroi. CÔTELETTES cOrsrnrrrs DE Mutton cutlets cutleb (chops) à la MOUTON À cool leave to and leave to cool A LA v[LsnoI -- Braise the cutlets and MouroN Le VILLEROI in (see Villeroi sauce sauce (see Dip in in Villeroi and trim. Drain and trim. Dip in their their stock. stock. Drain SAUCE) and in c1arified clarified Cook in and breadcrumbs. in egg and breadcrumbs. Cook and in and doyley and and drain. butter and drain. Arrange in a circle on a paper doyley sauce or or garnish with with fried fried parsley. Serve with Pirigueux sauce (see SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see Civet of mution. in butter 24 DE MOUTON Brown in butter 24 MouroN -- Brown mutton CIVET cryET DE li loosely packed cups) small onions and 200 (7 oz., g. (7 diced cups) diced oz.,lt 200 g. and pork. of pork. and blanched blanched belly of Take pan and, fat, brown brown and, in in the the same same fat, Take them them out out of of the the pan thoroughly (generous 11 g. (generous lb.) lower lower mutton mutton cutlets cutlets l+ lb.) 750 g. thoroughly 750 (U.S. (U.S. rib into squares. squares. Season Season and trimmed rib chops), chops), boned boned and trimmed into with shed c10ve garlic clove of pepper and crushed of garlic and spices. spices. Add Add 1I cru with salt, salt, pepper and (3 tablespoons) flour. tablespoons) flour. and sprinkle with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 sprinkle with Cook golden-brown. Moisten with equal Moisten with until the flour isis golden-brown. the flour Cook until parts garni and 22 parts red Add aa bouquet garni red wine wine and and clear clear stock. stock. Add tablespoons) an for an in the oyen oven for and cook cook in Cover and tablespoons) brandy. brandy. Coyer hour. hour. Drain pan and and add add pieces back in the the pan back in Drain on on aa sieve. Put the the pieces sieve. Put the mushrooms pork lardoons, and 24 24 smaU small mushrooms lardoons, small onions and small onions the pork previously over and pour itit over previously tossed Strain the sauce and in butter. the sauce butter. Strain tossed in the for an an hour. cook in mutton. Coyer and cook in the the oyen oven for the mutton. Cover and The of aa with the blood of civet isis thickened the blood The sauce of this thickened with sauce of this civet chicken or rabbit. rabbit. chicken or Curried L'INDIENNE DE MOUTON MouroN ÀA L'INDIENNE nlco0r DE mutton RAGOÛT Curid mution. (CURRIE lb.) lean (neck (41b.) (cunnm DE lean mutton mutton (neck t* kg. kg. (JiDie It on MOUTON) uouroN) -- Dice chops pieces 44 cm. cm. ut inches) square. into pieces chops or or shoulder) shoulder) into Brown (5 oz., Ii cups) g. (5 150 g. cups) chopped onions. lard with with 150 Brown in in lard Season powder. Brown for for aa and 1I teaspoon curry powder. Season with with salt salt and few garlic. of crushed crushed garlic. few seconds on the the stove. stove. Add aa clove of seconds on t cup) Sprinkle (2 oz., moisten with with and moisten g. (2 flour. Mix Mix and with 50 50 g. oz.,* cup) flour. Sprinkle with clear just enough meat. Add Add 1I enough to cover the the meat. water, just to coyer clear stock stock or or water, chopped removed, and and aa peeled tomato, with the the seeds seeds removed, tomato, with chopped peeled garni. Coyer l| hours. for I-!hours. and cook cook for bouquet garni. Cover and on the Pour on in aa bowl. the meat in Put the bowl. Pour out the the meat Take out the bouquet Put sauce, juice. with lemon lemon juice. necessary, flavoured flavoured with boiled down down if necessary, sauce, boiled Serve (see RICE). RICE). with Rice I'indienne (see Serve with Rice àd l'indienne Curried prepared in way as as in the sameway also be the same can also be prepared mutton can Curried mutton Chicken (see CHICKEN). curry (see CHICKEN). Chicken curry ItIt isis also preparing itit in way as as possible, still in the French way the French also possible, still preparing

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613 613

MUTTON MUTTON down, down, add a a few few tablespoons thickened brown veal veal stock, simmer to aa concentrated consistency, some butter, consistency, blend in sorne strain, and pour pour over the mutton and mushrooms. Haricot Haricot or or halicot halicot of of mutton. mutton. HARrcor HARICOT (rnr,rcor) (HALICOT) on DE MoUToN Mutton ragofrt ragoût whose name is no doubt derived MOUTON - Mutton from the old French halicoter, to cut into tiny morsels. morsels. There are recipes fs1 for this dish which date back to a a time before the the vegetable vegetable bean (haricot) (haricot) was generally known. known. In one of of the the oldest oldest formulae formulae given given by Taillevenf Taillevent, the following recipe recipe is given. given. all raw to fry in lard, cut into tiny pieces with 'Put them themall sliced onions and some sorne beef beef broth, broth, verjuice, parsley, parsley, hyssop hyssop sIiced onions and and sage, sage, and and boil boil together, together, with with fine-powdered spices.' Thus in in former former times haricot haricot (or (Of halicot) of of mutton was made made without without haricot haricot beans. The only garnish was turnips, turnips, potatoes potatoes and onions. onions. Haricot of of mutton mutton is made made hke like a ragofrt ragoût of of mutton with potatoes, potatoes, and has has nothing in in common with the the rago,fit ragoût of mutton mutton with with white white haricot haricot beans beans for for which which the the recipe recipe is given below. below. Mutton Mutton hash, hash. rncrn HACHIS DE DE MouroN MOUTON - Made Made from from cooked meat, meat, braised braised or roasted roasted in in the the same same way way as as Beef Beef hash hash (see (see BEEF). BEEF) . Mutton Mutton head head - See See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Sheep's Sheep' s head. head. Muttm Mutton hindquarter. hindquarter. oousr; DOUBLE DE DE MouroN MOUTON -- This This cut cut is is made made up up of of the the two two hind hind legs legs of of the the animal. animal. They They are are not not split. split. The The hindquarter hindquarter isis usually usually roastd roasted and and served served as as an an intermediate intermediate meat meat course, course. All Ali garnishes garnishes and and sau@s sauces indicated indicated for Baron Baron of of mutton mutton can can be he served served with with this this dish. dish . Mutton Mutton kidnep kidneys -- See See OFFAT OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS . Leg Leg of of nutton mutton ià I'angld5s l'anglaise I.I. clcor GIGOT DE DE MouroN MOUTON A À L',q.NGL' ANGulsn LAISE-- Take Take aa leg leg of ofmutton, mutton, trim, trim, cut cut off offthe the end end of ofthe the bone, bone, wrap wrap in in aa buttered buttered and and floured floured cloth cloth and and plunge plunge into into aa pan pan of of boiling boiling salt salt water. water. Add Add 44 medium-sized medium-sized carrots carrots cut cut to to look look like like big big olives, olives, 66 medium-sized medium-sized onions onions (one (one studded studded with with 22 cloves), bouquetgarni garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and and 22 cloves cloyes garlic. garlic. In In the the same same cloyes), aa bouquet pan pan put put I1dozen dozen large, large, tender tender turnips, turnips, quartered quartered and and tied tied in in aa cloth. clotho Boil pound of of meat. meat. Boil steadily, steadily, allowing allowing 30 30 minutes minutes per per pound Drain Drain and and unwrap unwrap the the leg leg of of mutton. mutton. Put Put itit on on aa serving serving dish, dish, and and surround surround with with the the carrots carrots and and onions. onions. With With itit serve serve the the turnips, turnips, rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve, sieve, and and aa Butter Butter sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made made with with the the cooking cooking stock stock of of the themutton, mutton,with with22tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) tablespoons)capers added. capers added.

Skim and drain the rest of the stock and serve separately. separately. Leg of mutton ài l'anglaise I'angfaise II. GIGOT crc,or DE MOUTON MouroN À A L'ANGI'ANGpur6e of LArsE LAISE -- Proceed as as indicated above, above, substituting substituting aa purée pur6e of turnips. celery for the the turnips, the the purée turnips. (Like the the celery must he the mutton.) be cooked with the potatoes cooked Mashed potatoes with the mutton mutton can he Mashed cookedwith be served served in place of turnips or celery. celery. Leg of mutton cooked according to to the the English method should purée of turnips turnips only, should he be served served with aa puree which are only, which cooked with the meat. grosses piices Carême, in in his his Traité des grosses pièces de de mouton, Car6me, Traili des mouton, advises glazing glazing the the leg after boiling boiIing with with the the usual ingredients. advises He also advises garnishing garnishing with cauliflower cauliflower covered covered with a sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE) . very smooth Espagnole scuce adds that all ail kinds of vegetables and and sauces sauces can can be be He adds of mutton cooked in this way. way. served with leg of 'It is a strange error on the part of of many chefs,' he he conEngIish gounnets gourmets will eat this this leg cludes, 'to suppose that English only if if served served with with boiled carrots and and turnips. What What the only like best best is to see see the the juie juice coming coming from the leg leg when English like they slice it.' iL' they Leg of of mutton mutton ià la .bonre bonne femme. femme. crcor GIGOT pB DE uourox MOUTON A À le LA Leg BONNE FEMME FEMME -- Proceed Proceed as indicated indicated for Shoulder Shoulder of of mutton BoNNE la bonne bonne femme femme (se (see below). below). dà la Leg of of mutton mutton ià la bordelaise bordelaise (Car€me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). crcor GIGOT DE DE Leg À rA LA soRDeLArsE BORDELAISE -- 'Take 'Take a leg of of mutton which which has MOUTON A MouroN hung until until very very tender. tender. Bone Bone it, it, except except for for the the projecting projecting been hung been Stuff with with ham ham and fillets fillets of of anchovy anchovy from which all aIl bone. Stuff bone. has been been removed, and also also with chopped parsley, parsley, 22 salt has and I1 clove clove of of garlic, garlic, chopped chopped and and blanched. blanched. Tie Tie the the shallots and aU the the stuffing. stuffing. Brown Brown lightly lighùy in in butter. butter. leg to to keep keep in in all leg Moisten with with a a bottle bottle of of good good red red Bordeaux Bordeaux rvine. wine . Add Add 22 Moisten carrots, 33 onions onions (1 (1 studded studded with with 22 cloves), cloyes), aa bouEtet bouquet garni carrots, of thyme, thyme, bay bay leaves leaves and and basil. basil. Cover Coyer and and stew stew slowly, slowly, but but of in such such aa way way as as to to reduce reduce the the stock stock to to aa Demi-glace Demi-glace (see in SAUCE). Cook Cook for for 1| 1t hours. hours. Have Have ready ready lf li litres litres (2| (2i pints, pints, SAUCE). 3i pints) pints) perfectly perfectly skinned skinned cloves cloyes of of garlic. garIic. Boil Boil in in aa lot of 3| water. Drain. Drain. Cool Cool under under runningwaterand running water and saut6 sauté in in the the best best water. butter. Keep Keep them them hot. hot. Drain Drain the the leg leg of of mutton. mutton. Put Put itit on on aa butter. serving dish. dish. Boil Boil down down the the stock stock with with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons serving Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Espagnole 'After taking taking out out the the vegetables vegetables and and the the bouquet bouquet garni, garni, 'After strain the the stock stock through through muslin. muslin. Pour Pour over over the the joint. joint. Dress Dress strain tablespoon Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) the garlic garlic with with I1 tablespoon the and aa small small pinch pinch of of Cayenne Cayenne pepper. pepper. Serve Serve in in aa sauceboat sauceboat and or silver silver bowl.' bowl.' or

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Howtotocut cutaaleg legofmutton: How of mutton: Lefl :p:rallelto parallel to Left: the bone the bone Righi: :perpendicular perpendicularto to Rigftr thebone bone the (LArousse) (Larousse)

614 614

MUTTON ue MOUTON r,rouroN À A LA mutton ià la la bouhngCre. bouJangère. GIGOT Leg of muttm crcor DE r,A, mutton àd la BOULANGÈRE - Proceed Proceed as as for for Shoulder sourn{ciRE Shoulder of of mutton

g. (4 oz., 75 g. tossed in butter, 75 chopped mushrooms tossed oz.,2f (4!2± cups) chopped in butter (3 oz., butter cooked very slowly slowly in chopped onions cooked oz.,li cup) cup) chopped (3 garlic, pa.rsley, aa touch of of garlic, until tender, tender, 1I tablespoon chopped parsley, (see (6 tablespoons, sance (see c,rp) Espagnole sauce and 1 dl. dl. (6 and tablespoons, scant 1 i cup) Season with with salt, salt, tomato. Season SAUCE) strongly flavoured with tomato. pepper and spices. thoroughly. Bind with 2 or 3 eggs. Mix thoroughly. line aa preparatioru for moussaka. Completely Completely line the moussaka. Final preparations for the aubergine skins, mould with with the skins, the aubergine large large buttered charlotte mould buttered charlotte layers mould with alternate alternate layers Fill this purple side this mould side downward. FiIl fried aubergine. aubergine. Press Press these of fried round slices of mince mince and and round slices of aubergine Cover with aubergine ingredients weIl well down into the mould. Cover greaseproof of buttered greaseproof lay a sheet skins. On sheet of On top of the skins laya pan of water and and cook cook the the paper. Stand mould in in aa pan of water paper. Stand the the mould for 1I hour. moussaka in in the oven for the oven on to to aa out on turning out minutes before Let few minutes before turning Let itit stand stand for aa few serving dish. serving dish. made may be If aubergines moussaka may be made are not available available the the moussaka aubergines are (zucchini, courgettes). courgettes). with very very smaIl small vegetable marrows (zucchini, portions served restaurant, the the For served in in aa restaurant, For individual individual portions mould. moussaka is large rectangular rectangular mould. in aa large is usually made in gar ragofit garA ragoût Navarin of DE MOUTON MouroN -- A NAVARIN DE of mutton. mutton NAVARIN nished with different vegetables. vegetables. NAvARIN DE Dts MOUTON MouroN AUX AUx Navarin of nutton witb with potatoes. NAVARIN of mutton poMMEs DE given to POMMES Ragofrt of of mutton mutton àd la la Name given to Ragoût TERRE -- Name DE TERRE (see below). pork (see bonne thout belly of pork below). cooked wi without belly of bonne femme femrne cooked printrnier. NAVARIN MouroN Navarin NAVARIN DE DE MOUTON Navarin of mutton printanier. of mutton pRTNTANTER - The mutton cut into PRINTANIER cut into of mutton chuck and and shoulder shoulder of - The chuck wittr salt, pieces oz.) Season Season with salt, pieces each about 60 ffi g.e. (2t weighing about each weighing Qi oz.) fine sugar. pepper and and aa pinch of offine sugar. (3 tablespoons) With or butter, fat or butter, stock fat With 22 tablespoons tablespoons) stock tablespoons (3 (3 brown the pieces thoroughly. with 22 tablespoons Sprinkle with tablespoons (3 the pieces thoroughly. Sprinkle tablespoons) oven. Add lightly in in the Add and brown lightly the oven. flour, mix, mix, and tablespoons) flour, enough meat. Bring Bring to boil, to the the boil, water to cover the the meat. enough tepid to cover tepid water stirring tan tly, to roux isis weIl well blended blended ensure that the roux to ensure that the constantly, stirring cons garlic, into clove crushed crushed garlic, chopped tomatoes,1 into the Add chopped tomatoes, I clove the stock. stock. Add (q.v.). and a bouquet garni v.). Bring and simmer garni (q. cover and simmer Bring to to the tle boil, boil, cover andabouquet in pieces of meat and and strain Remove the of meat strain hour. Remove the pieces oven for in the oven for 1I hour. the hot water water 10 detach bone bone in hot to detach Rinse the saucepan in the sauce. sauce. Rinse the saucepan splinters. in the back in the and the ingredienb and the sauce sauoe back all the the ingredients splinters. Put Put ail pan. more and and add add smaIl onions, small onions, pan. Bring once more Bring to to the the boil boil once quartered and new new like olives quartered carrots, olives and look like to look cut to carrots, turnips turnips cut potatoes. for 1I hour. hour. potatoes. Continue very slowly, slowly, for still very cooking, still Continue cooking, (4 oz., g. (4 Add peas and 100 g. (6 oz., and 100 oz., g. (6 cup) shelled shelled peas 175 g. Add 175 oz.,l1 scant scant cup) t1 cup) French navarin, still still cooking the the navarin, Finish cooking French beans. beans. Finish "rrp) very simmering gently, for hour. further 1 very gently, for aa further simmering I hour. Skim the navarin and serve. all fat fat off offthe navarin and serve. Skim aIl Noisettes These small MouroN -- These small NoIsETTEt DE DE MOUTON Noisettes of mutton. NOISETTES of mutton. pieces noisette isis leg, since pieces should nolx of of the the leg, since noisette cut from from the the noix should be be cut the practice, however, very however, these these very noix. In ln practice, of noix. diminutive of the diminutive

boulangère (see below). boulanglre

Braised leg of mutton. GIGOT MOUTON BRAISÉ Braised crcor DE DB MouroN sRAtst -- Proceed of mutton

for Erarsed Braised shoulder shoulder of ofmutton as for mutton (see below).

Leg of muttm mutton ià Ia la bretonne. on MOUTON nourox ÀA Leg bretonne. GIGOT clcor DE

LA r,c,

diluted Roast a leg of mutton. Serve with it the the diluted pan juices with a little fat left in them. Garnish with white Purde of smaIl kidney beans à haricot beans, small ri la bretonne, or Purée haricot beans àd la bretonne The garnish must haricot bretonne (see BEANS). The

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BRETONNE BREToNNE

be served separately. separately. (venison style). Leg of chevreuil (venison style). GIGOT clcor DE en cheweuil of mutton mutton en the chump MOUTON EN EN cHEvREUn CHEVREUIL - Bone leg of MouroN Bone the end of aa leg chump end mutton and fix the bone into the so that it prothe smaller end so jecs. jects. Completely the meat with best meat and and interlard interlard with Completely skin skin the

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lardoons, as for a haunch of roebuck. ofroebuck. as fora (see MARIPut the the leg to steep in in aa special Put leg to special marinade (see NADE). in this marinade for sorne NADE). Leave it some time, depending il il on the tenderness of the the meat and days in and on the weather (2 days summer and 4 to 55 days in winter). winter). summer Dry the leg of mutton in aa clotho it. Serve Serve Roebuck cloth. Roast it. (se, SAUCE) separately. sauce or Poivrade Poivrade sauce (see separately. Bone the crcor DE DE MOUTON MouroN RÔTI. n6tt. Bone the Roast leg leg of mutton. mutton GIGOT chump (U.S. loin) leg. For For cooking cooking time of the time see see loin) end chump (U.S. end of the leg. CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average cooking timefor roasts. Serve the diluted pan juices with it. It is customary to leg near near the the projecting bones stud the the leg to stud with 2 or 33 smaIl small cloves of garlic. Cold leg of mutton is me way as roast leg as roast is cooked in the sa same of mutton. garnished only with watercress. mutton. It is served served plain, garnished Leg la cuiller. clcor DE DE or àI la cuiller. GIGOT Leg of of mutton mutton de de sept sep heures heures or MOUTON (A LA leg and cut t l CUILLER) cut MouToN DE SEPT HEURES (À cult lrn) -- Trim the leg sBpT HEUlŒi off the way, but cook for for the end of the the bone. Braise in the usual way, a long time at at aa moderate temperature. After cooking, this mutton should be it can be so so tender that it be be cut with a spoon. spoon. Serve and boiled down. down. strained and Serve with the the braising liquor, strained AlI garnishes indicated for Braised Braised rib rib or or Shoulder Shoulder of of All garnishes indicated for mutton (see (see below) are cuiller. for Leg Lq ofmutton of mutton àd la la cuiller. are suitable for pB MOUTON Leg DrouroN ÀA LA la Soubise. Soubise. GIGOT clcor DE t,c, Leg of of mutton mutton àI la SOUBISE and braise way. souBrsE-- Trim Trim the braise in the usual way. the leg of mutton and When it is is half-cooked, drain drain it. it. Strain Strain the the briasing stock. stock. Put pan. Surround with 22 kg. kg. Surround with leg back Put the in the the braising pan. the leg back in (41 ions. Pour (4+ lb.) parboiled quartered on on the onions. Pour on the braising lb) parboiled stock. all together. together. stock. Finish cooking aIl Drain and add add in aa saucepan, saucepan, and Crush them them in Drain the the onions. onions. Crush 250 (9 oz., g. (9 chicken soup. rioe cooked cooked in in clear clear chicken soup. 250 g. l{ cup) cup) rice oz., l± Simmer for fine sieve Rub the 10 minutes. Rub the onions through aa fine sieve for 10 (or through aa tammy cloth, pur6e, cloth, pressing hard). Heat Heat this this purée, and dish on aa serving senring dish it. Glaze Glaze the the joint. Put itit on and add add butter to it. butter to and and pour over of stock, strained and few tablespoons stock, strained it aa few tablespoons of and pour over it boiled and with the stock and necessary. Serve Serve with the braising stock down, if if necessary. boiled down, the (onion purée). pur6e). soubise (onion the soubise The with the way, with the in the usual way, the usual The leg leg can can also also be be braised braised in soubise separately as for this recipe for in the this prepared.separately indicated in the recipe as indicated soubise prepared purée (see PURÉE). pur6e (see PUREE). Mutton FoIE, COEUR coELJR ET r.r spleen FOIE, liver, heart heart and and spleen. lamb's liver, Muttm and and lamb's RATE parts constitute called the what isis called the These parts constitute what MouroN -- These RATE DE DE MOUTON pluck. Sheep ragoûts. is used mostly in rnragofits. lamb pluck is used mostly Sheep and and lamb Moussaka (Rumanian cookery). MoI-tssAKA DE DE cookery). MOUSSAKA Moussaka of of mutton muttm (Rumanian MOUTON prepared in cooked Using cooked in advance. advance. Using MoUToN -- Ingredients Ingredients prepared mutton lb., 4!- cups) mince. mince. mutton make make 1I kg. ke. (2± Qilb.,4+cups) Cook and lightly lightly lengthwise and halved lengthwise aubergines, halved Cook in in oil oil 66 aubergines, scored it. Keep Keep the and chop chop it. the knife, Scoop Scoop out out the the pulp and with aa knife. scored with skins line the mould. skins to to line the mould. Cook and peeled aubergines, cut into into slices slices and aubergines, cut in oil oil 22 peeled Cook in chopped. g. 125 g. also 125 mince, and and add add also mutton mince, chopped. Add Add to to the the mutton

Noisettes of mutton Armenonville

615

MUTTON MUTTON delicate cuts cuts are are taken taken from the the fillet (loin) (loin) or the rib of of the animal. animal. Noisettes Noisettes cut from from the the rib rib are more more regular regular in shape than those those cut cut from from the the loin. These These may may be be saut6ed sautéed or grilled, grilled, and served with with all ail garnishes nishes suitable suitable for Mutton Mutton cutlets cutlets and, and Noisettes of of lamb (see LAMB). LAMB). Noisettes Noisettes of of mutton muttoo Armenonville. Armenonville. NorsETTEs NOISETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON ARMENoNvInT Sa uté the noisettes noisettes in in butter. butter. Set each one ARMENONVILLE -- Saut6 on on aa small small Anrw Anna potato potato (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) cooked cooked in in aa tartlet. tarti et. Garnish Garnish with with cocks'combs cocks' combs and and cocks' cocks' kidneys, kidneys, alternated alternated with with the the noisettes, noisettes, and and morels morels in in cream, cream, piled piled in in the the middle middle of the the dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, heat heat and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. Noisettes Noisettes of of mutton mutton Nichette. Nichette. NorsETTEs NOISETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON NTcHETTE NICHETTE -- GriU Grill the the noisettes. noisettes. Put Put each each one one on on a a bed bed of browned browned Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). On On top top of of each each put put aa large large grilled grilled mushroom. mushroom. In In the the middle middle of of the the dish dish heap heap morels morels saut6ed sautéed with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Pour Pour concentrated concentrated veal veal stock. stock, enriched enriched with with butter. butter, round round the the dish. dish.

Bring to the boil. Cover the pan. Cook in a hot oven for about I1 hour. Remove Remove the bouquet and serve serve in a deep dish. dish. This This stew stew has has no no thickening other other than than the the potatoes, potatoes, which which in cooking cooking should thicken the stock sufficiently. sufficiently. Ragoftt Ragoût of mutton ià Panglaise l'anglaise tr II flrish (Irish stew). stew). nlco0r RAGOÛT on DE MouroN MOUTON A À r'.tNclqlse L'ANGLAISE - Prepare Prepare the stew as indicated in the previous previous recipe, but but using only only half half the quantity of of potatoes and onions. on ions. Boil the stew for 35 minutes. Drain Drain on on a a sieve. sieve. Put the the pieces pieces of meat meat back back in in the saucepan. saucepan. Cover with 400 g. (14 o2.,2$ oz., 2t cups) cups) potatoes cut into and 24 into ovals ovals and 24 small small parboiled parboiled onions. onions. Pour strained cooking stock stock over all ail these these ingredients. ingredients. Cover, and cook cook in the the oven oven for 35 35 to to 40 40 minutes. Serve Serve in in a deep dish. dish. Rago0t Ragoût of mutton mutton with barley. buley. RAcoOr RAGOÛT pr DE rraouroN MOUTON A À L'oRGE L'ORGE -- Use Use the same same ingredients ingredients and and procedure procedure as as for Rago,frt Ragoût of mutton mutton with with white white haricot haricot beans beans (se (see below), below), leaving the belly and and substituting for the the beans beans 150 g. leaving out the (5 (5 oz., oz., scant cup) cup) pearl pearl barley, barley, previously previously cooked cooked in in salt water water for for I1 hour. hour. The The cooking cooking water water of of the the barley barley should be be used to to moisten moisten the ragofit. ragoût. used Ragoût of of mutton mutton with with red red beans. beans. nlc,o0r RAGOÛT DE DE MouroN MOUTON AUx AUX Rago&t HARrcors HARICOTS RouGEs ROUGES -- Proceed Proceed u as for for Rago,frt Ragoût with with white white haricot haricot (see below), below), substituting substituting for for the the white white beans beans the the same same beans (see beans quantity quantity of of red red beans, beans, three-parts three-parts cooked cooked in red red wine. wine. Ragoût of mutton mutton with white white haricot haricot beans. beans. nAc,ofr RAGOÛT os DE Rago0t MouroN MOUTON Ar.rx AUX HARrcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS -- This ragofit ragoût should not not be be confused confused with haricot haricot of of mutton. mutton. Brown in in fat 125 125 g. g. (* (t lb., lb., I1 cup) cup) diced diced and and blanched blanched belly belly Brown of of pork. pork. Take Take these these lardoons lardoons out out of of the the pan pan and and in in the the same same fat fat brown brown 750 750 g. g. (l| to to lili lb.) lb.) mutton mutton cut cut into into square square pieces pieces and seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. and Oust flour Hour over over the the ragofrt ragoût and and proceed proceed as as indicated indicated for for the the Dust first stage stage of of Ragofrt Ragoût of ofmutton mutton dà la la bonne bonnefemme femme (see, (see below). below). first Drain the the mutton mutton and and put put the the pieces pieces back back in in the the pan. pan. Add Add Drain litre (scant (scant pint,2t pint, cups) white white beans, beans, three-parts three-parts cooked, cooked, cups) It titre and the the browned browned lardoons. lardoons. Skim Skim all ail fat fat off off the the sauce. sauce. Strain Strain and and and pour pour over over the the ragofit. ragoût. Cover and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for for l| 1t hours. hours. Cover Ragoût of of mutton mutton ià la la bonne bonne femme. femme. uco0'r RAGOÛT DE DE MouroN MOUTON Ragofft LA soNNE BONNE FEMME FEMMECut into ioto square square pieces pieces 7750 g. (l! to to l1 I~ lb.) lb.) AÀr,q, 50 g. - Cut mutton. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and brown brown with with I1 mutton. quartered quartered onion onion in in cooking cooking fat. fat. Pour Pour off off some sorne of of the the fat. fat. Add aa pinch pinch of of fine fine sugar sugar (this (this sugar, sugar, turning turning into into caramel, caramel, Add will give give the the necessary necessary colouring colouring to to the the sauce), sauce), and and 22 tabletablewill spoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour. fiour. Mix. Mix. Add Add I1 small small clove clove of of spoons crushed garlic. garlic. Moisten Moisten with with I1litre litre (lf (Ii pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) crushed water or or clear clear stock. stock. Add Add 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant * cup) cup) water

ot

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Noisettes Noisettes of ofmutton mut tondàlala tyrolienne tyrolienne

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Noisettes Noisettes of of mutton mutton à ln la tyrolienne. tyrolienne. NorsETTEs NOISETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON AÀ LA rynorrENNr TYROLIENNE-- Saut6 Sauté the the noisettes noisettes in in butter. butter. Set Set each each on on aa small small Anna Anna potato potato (see (see POTATOES), POT A TOES), and and decorate decorate the the top top with with aa spoonful spoonful of of Tomato Tomato fondue fondue (see (see TOMATO, TOMA TO, FONFON-

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DUE). DUE). Fill Fill the the middle middle of of the the plate plate with with fried fried onion on ion rings. rings. Pour Pour the the cooking cooking stock stock over over tlrc the noisettes. noisettes. Mutton Mutton pie pie (English (English cookery) cookery) -- See See PIE. PIE. Pistach Pistache of of muttm mutton or or mutton mutton à la la catalane catalane (Languedoc (Languedoc cookery). cookery). prsrAcHE PISTACHE DE DE MouroN MOUTON (rrlouroN (MOUTON A Àm LA clr,c,rANE) CATALANE) Made Made from from boned boned shoulder shoulder of of mutton mutton or or part part of of the the leg. leg. The Thedistinctive distinctivefeature feature of ofthis thisdish dishisis that thatititisis garnished garnished with with aa considerable considerable amount amount of of garlic. garlic. (See (See Shoulder Shoulder of ofmutton mutton dà la la catalane, catalane, below). below). Ragoft of mutton. mutton. n,c.co0rs RAGOÛTS DE DE MouroN MOUTON - Ragotts Ragoûts are are RagoOt of made made with with the the shoulder, shoulder, neck, neck, neck neck chops chops and and breast breast of of the the sheep. sheep. These These are are ffimmed, trimmed, boned boned and and cut cut into into pieces pieces weighweighing ingup up to to 100 100g. g. (3 (3 to to 4 3t or.). oz.). Ragofrts Ragoûts may may be be prepared prepared in in white white or or brown brown stock. stock. Different Different vegetables, vegetables, fresh fresh or or dried, dried, and and rice rice or or barley barley are are served with with them. them. served Ragott Ragoût of of mutton mutton à l'anglaise l'ang1aise I1 Oridr (Irish stew). stew). nec,o0r RAGOÛT os DE MouroN MOUTON AÀ r'rlNcLqlss L'ANGLAISE -- Cut Cut into into pieces pieces of ofequal equal sire size 750 750 g.g. (li toto li lb.) lb.) mutton. mutton. Put Put these these in in aa saucepan saucepan in in alternating alternating layers layers with with 500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz., oz., 33cups) cups) sliced sliced potatoes potatoes and and 200 200 g.g. (7 (7 oz.,lf oz., licups) cups) sliced sliced or orchopped chopped onions. onions. Put Putaabouquet bouquetgarii garni in in the the middle middle of of the the pan. pan. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten with with enough enough water water just just to to cover cover the the meat meat and and Moisten potatoes. potatoes.

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Ragoûtof ofmutton withwhite whiteharicot haricotbeans beans Ragofit mutton with

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MUTTON MUTTON Tomato Tomatopurie purée(see (see SAUCE) SA U CE) 100 100g.g. (4(4 o2.,4 OZ., 1cup) cup) fresh, fresh, pulped pulped bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Cover Cover and and cook cook in in the the tomatoes, anda and a bouquet tomatoes, oven for for an an hour. ho ur. oven mutton on Drain the thepieces piecesof ofmutton on aa sieve. sieve. Remove Remove the the skin skin and and Drain cooking. Put bone separated splintersofofbone separated during duringcooking. Put the the meat meat back back splinters cups) in g. (14 (14 o2.,2$ OZ., cups) potatoes potatoes cut cut to to look look in the the pan. pan. Add Add 400 400 g. like big big olives, olives, 24 24 smill small glazedonions glazed onions and and 125 125 g. g. (+ (t lb., lb., I1cup) cup) like pork cut cut into into little little squares. squares. blanched and and browned browned belly belly of of pork blanched pour over over the the ragofrt. ragoût. Skim all ail fat fat off off the the sauce. sauce. Strain Strain and and pour Skim Bring to to the the boil. boil. Cover Cover and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for for I1 hour. hour. Bring Ragoût of of mutton mutton with witb celeriac. celeriac. nc'c'o0r RAGOÛT DE DE MouroN MOUTON AU AU Ragofit CÉLERI-RAVE -- Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated fot for Ragofrt Ragoût of of mutton mutton dà cfrsnt-RrvE la bonne bonne femme, femme, substituting substituting for for the the garnish garnish indicated indicated an an la equal quantity quantity ofceleriac of celeriac cut cut into into large large oval oval pieces pieces and parparequal boiled. boiled. catalane. uco0r RAGOÛT Ragoût of of mutton mutton with with chick-peag eruek-peas, Ià la catalane. Ragofft DE MouroN MOUTON AUx AUX Po$ POIS cHIcHEs CHICHES (A (À r,l LA clurANE) CATALANE) -- Proceed as as DE mutton dà la bonne of Ragofit Ragoût of ofmutton bonnefemme femme,,ursing using for the the first first stage stage of for and little more Tomato Tomato purie purée (see SAUCE, Tomato Tomato sauce) and aa little seasoning liberally liberally with with crushed garlic. garlic. Put Put the the pieces pieces of of seasoning separately. mutton back back in the pan. Add chick-peas, chick-peas, cooked separately. mutton cooking in Strain the sauce sauce and pour pour it over over the dish' dish. Finish cooking Strain oven. a slow oven. AUx MouroN AUX with kohl-rabi. kohl-rabi. RAGoOl RAGOÛT DE DE MOUTON Ragoût of mutton with Ragoft Ragofrt of mutton proceed as a~ indicated indicated for Ragoût CHOUX-RAVES - Proceed cHoux-RAVDs like big look like to look cut to kohl-rabi, cut with celeriac, with celeriac, substituting kohl-rabi, olives and parboiled, parboiled, for celeriac. celeriac. olives RAGoOT milanaise. RAGOÛT la milanaise. macaroni, ài la Ragoût of muttm mutton with macaroni, Ragolit (A LA as for Proceed as rrnrnNllse) -- proceed DE MouroN MOUTON AU r.l MILANAISE) MAcARor.n (À AU MACARONI DE using aa bonnae femme, using first stage of Ragoût of mutton àd la bonnaefemme, Rag ofit ofmutton the first (se SAUCE) and cooking cooking purie (see SAUCE) and larger quantity of Tomato purée the completelY in one stage. the meat completely flat in aa flat and trimmed, trimmed, in Put mutton, drained and pie-es of mutton, Put the the pieces in salt salt half-boiled in earthenware dish. macaroni half-boiled with macaroni dish. Cover with (2| inches), then and then inches)' and water, drained, cut of 6 cm. crn. (21 cut into lengths of6 into the the grated Parmesan Parmesan into cooked Thoroughly mix grated in butter. Thoroughly cooked in fine through aa fine macaroni. Pour strained through sauce strained the sauce over this this the Pour over in the the slowly in sieve, and brown brown slowly butter, and melted butter, with melted sprinkle with sieve, sprinkle oven. oven. I-a on MOUTON uouroN ÀA LA Ragoût nA'co0r DE la niçoise. nigoise. RAGOÛT mutton ài la Ragofit of of mutton (lt toto lili lb.) lb.) g. (lt pieces 750 NIçoISE 750 g. into square iquare pieces cut into Bone and and cut rorgorJr -- Bone and it, and over it, flour over shoulder in oil, oil, sprinkle sprinkle flour Brown in mutton. Brown of mutton. shoulder of add garlic. of crushed crushed garlic. cloves of add 22 cloves down. Boil down. wine. Boil (f pint, white wine. t cup) white Moisten pint,3 lj dl. dl. (t with It Moisten with the Add stock to tablespoons (t$ meat, 44 tablespoons the meat, cou.r"up) io cover cleaistocli enough clear Add enough (q'v-)' garni (q.v.). cup) (se SAUCE) and aa bouquet bouquet garni purie (see SAUCE) and Tomato purée cup) Tomato put the the and put Cook ur. Drain meat, trirn trim it,it, and the meat, Drain the hour. for one one ho Cook for potatoes and and new potatoes pieces 30small small new pan. Add about 30 Add about pieces back in the the pan. back in pour itit over over 12 andpour sauoe and thesauce Strain the onions. Strain browned onions. i2 small small browned 45minutes. minutes. the for 45 oven for the oven cook inin the and cook Cover and mutton. Cover the mutton. vegetable Without verysmail small vegetable add to to itit44 very ragofrt, add theragoût, stirring the Without stirring Cook inin marrows, oil.Cook browned ininoil. and browned diced and peeled, coarsely coarsely diced marrows, peeled, aa slow 15 minutes. minutes. for 15 oven for slow oven rA. Ragoftt osMOUTON MouroN ÀALA paysanne. RAGOÛT RAGofrDE mutton àil lala paysanne. Rago0tof ofmutton PAYSANNE plvsllwn - - Proceed bonne mutton àdlalabonne of mutton for Ragoût Rago'frt of asfor Proceed as femme, and onionsand turnips,onions with carrots, carrots, turnips, meatwith cooking the the meat femme, cooking quartered potatoes. potatoes. quartered - This ragoût and onionsand turnips, onions withcarrots, carrots, turnips, made with also made This ragofitisisalso potatoes celery andpotatoes butter,and andtossed tossed inin butter, cutinto into triangles triangles and celerycut cut likeolives. looklike olives. cuttotolook Ragofit PRINMouroNPRINprintanier.RAGOÛT uc'ofr DEDEMOUTON mutton printanier. Rago&tofofmutton TANIER printanier. of muttonprintanier. Navarinofmutton forNavarin namefor Anothername TANIER - - Another Ragoût AURIZ Rtz- MotrroNAU DEMOUTON RAGoOTDE rice.RAGOÛT withrice. muttonwith Ragofttofofmutton Proceed ofmutton mutton Ragofitof forRagoût ingredientsasasfor withthe thesame sameingredients ProcJedwith \Vith cup) oz',~tcup) 150g.g.(5(5OZ., barley150 forthe thebarley substituting for withbar/ey, barley,substituting rice, serving' beforeserving. minutesbefore 30minutes ragofit30 addedtotothe theragoût rice,added Rib muttonisis Ribofofmutton MouroN- - Rib clnn6DEDEMOUTON mutton.CARRÉ Ribofofmutton. usually braised roastedororbraised alsobeberoasted canalso intocutlets. cutlets.ItItcan dividedinto usuallydivided

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(Karquet) mutton (Karquel) Ribs of of mutton Ribs

as served as It should should be be served vegetable. It garnished with with vegetable. and garnished whole, and whole, not include include mutton should should not rib of of mutton A rib course. A intermediate course. intermediate chump. from the the chump. starting from cutlets, starting to 99 cutlets, more than than 88 to more the Remove the chuck. Remove at the the chuck. rib : Sever Sever at whole rib: of aa \Vhole Preparation of Preparation remove and remove meat, and covers the the meat, which covers parchment-like skin skin which thin th in parchment-like Bard the the cutlet bones. bones. Bard of the the cutlet tips of Loosen the the tips backbone. Loosen the backbone. the of with severallengths several lengths of pork fat on with fat tied tied on with pork meat with skinned meat skinned string. string. pn (Car0me's recipe). recipe). cARRÉ clnnf DE I'ancienne (Carême's of mutton mutton ài l'ancienne Rib of Rib from the mutton rtbs of 'Cut two A r'lNcIENNn MouroN MOUTON À L'ANCIENNE -- 'Cut two nbs of mutton from the (rib) from neck. the neck. (loin) to from the cutlet (rib) fourth cutlet to the the fourtb fillet (loin) fillet after fillet, after the fillet, covering the all the the skin skin covering remove 'Completely rem 'Completely ove ail Detach to to fillet. Detach and trim the fillet. trim the backbone, and removed the the backbone, having removed having ribsatat the top the top the ribs covering the meat covering the meat width of of aa thumb thumb the the width the pair of the cutlets so so that that the of cutlets each pair ofeach one bone bone of Saw through through one end. Saw end. ribs of the theribs one of long. Interlard Interlard one inches long. are only only 2t inches remainder are remainder parsleyinto into the the of parsley Thread sprigs sprigs of lardoons. Thread with best best square square lardoons. with other. other. into cutinto anonion onion cut ofan composed of marinade composed inaa marinade 'Put the ribs in the ribs 'Put glassof of halfaaglass pepper and andhalf leaf,salt, salt, pepper bayleaf, parsley, thyme, thyme,bay rings, parsley, rings, good oil. oil. good putitit on onthe the serving, put before serving, hour before anhour 'Three-quarters of ofan 'Three-quarters frequently. paper. Baste Baste frequently. of buttered buttered paper. sheet of Wrap ininaasheet spit. Wrap spit. pour glaze, serve andpour serveand unwrap, glaze, serving,unwrap, beforeserving, minutes before Five minutes Five it.' overit.' clear stock stockover c!ear rl uouroN ÀALA cmnfDEosMOUTON boulangire. CARRÉ mutton àI lalaboulangère. Ribofofmutton Rib boulambàdlalabouoflamb forShoulder Shoulderof Proceedasasfor BouLANGiRE- - Proceed BOULANGÈRE (seeLAMB). LAMB). langire(see langère r.A luouroN Ài LA oeMOUTON cARRfDE bretonne.CARRÉ muttonài lala bretonne. niUofofmutton Rib Serve spit.Serve onthe thespit. ovenororon ribininthe theoven Roastthe therib BREToNNE - - Roast BRETONNE (see bretonne(see beansàdlalabretonne kidneybeans orsmall smallkidney beansor whitebeans withwhite witb roastseparately. separately. gravyofofthe tl-reroast Servethe thegravy BEANS).Serve BEANS). rib withrib alsobebeserved (seePURÉE) servedwith canalso PUREE) can bretonne(see Puriebretonne AAPurée mutton. ofmutton. of rl rraoutor'rÀALA clnn6DEoPMOUTON boulangire. CARRÉ mutton à i lalaboulangère. Ribofofmutton Rib ribinina a andtied tiedrib bardedand thetrimmed, trimmed, barded Putthe SRAI$- -Put MouroNBRAISÉ MOUTON anda asliced porkskin, sliced skin,and panlined withpork linedwith braisingpan buttered butteredbraising Adda a butter.Add tossedininbutter. havebeen beentossed whichhave carrotwhich andcarrot onionand onion gentlyfor for1515 cookgently andcook Coverand garni.Season. Season.Cover bouquet bouquetgarni. down Boildown wine.Boil whitewine. pint,~ tcup) cup)white MoistenHl*dl.dl.(i(+pint, minutes.Moisten minutes. pint"lilfcups) cups)thickened thickened with3 3dl.dl.(t(*pint, Moistenwith essence.Moisten totoananessence. for4545 ovenfor theoven andcook cookininthe Coverand clearsoup. soup.Cover veal vealstock stockororclear joint. thejoint. thesize sizeofofthe accordingtotothe hour,according minutes minutestoto1 Ihour,

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MUTTON MUTTON Drain the rib. Glaze, and garnish it as indicated. pour over the rib. Glaze and garnish it as indicated. Pour over itDrain the reduced and strainedbraising braisingstock stockwith withthe fat thefat it the reduced and strained skimmed off skimmed off. Garnishes for rib of munon. Most garnishes indicated for Garnishes for rib of mutton. Most garnishes indicated for Baron of mutton are suitable for this cut. It can also be garBaron of mutton are suitable for this cut. It can also he garnished (these ganrishes are very suitable for the riU; riith nished (these garnishes are very suitable for the rib) with pur6es offresh or dried vegetables, especially pulses (lentils, purées of fresh or dried vegetables, especially pulses (Ientils, dried beans,etc.), etc.),risotto risottoand andpasta pastaprepared prepared inindifferent different dried beans, ways.

ways. As appropriate, these garnishes garnishesare arearranged arranged round roundthe the As appropria te, these meat or served separately. meat or served separately. Cold rib of mutton c,lr.nn DE MouroN FRorD - Roast the Cold rib of mutton. cARRÉ DE MOUTON FROID - Roast the rib the oven oven or oron onthe thespit, andleave spigand leaveuntil untilcold. cold. rib inin the jelly. Serve Trim. Glaze with jelly. Serveon onaalong long dish. dish.Garnish, Garnish, atat Trim. Glaze with each end of the dish, with bunches of watercress and, along each end of the dish, with bunches of watercress and, along the sides, with chopped jelly. the sides, with chopped jelly. In England England itit isis customary customary totoserve servemint mint sauce sauce with with cold cold In lamb or mutton (see SAUCE, Cold Sauces). lambor mutton (see SAUCE, Cold Sauces). psMOUTON Rib of of mutton muttm ài lala Maintenon. Maintenon. CARRÉ c.q,RR6 DE ruouroN ÀALA rA, Rib MATNTENoN Proceed as as for for Saddle Saddle of of mutton mutton àdlalaMainMain_ MAINTENON -- Proceed tenon (see below). tenon (see below). Rib of of mutton mutton ài l'orientale. I'orientale. CARRÉ c.lnnf DE DE MOUTON MouroN ÀA L'ORIENr'onrnNRib TALE - Trim a rib of mutton and braise in the usual wav. TALE - Trim a rib of mutton and braise in the usual way. Drain it. it. Garnish Garnish along along the the sides sides with with small small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed Drain (q.v.) of with salpicon (q.v.) (lamb's) liver, of sheep's sheep's (Iamb's) liver, sautéed saut6ed in in with aa salpicon butter, blended blended with with truck thick brown brown stock stoek with with aa salpicon salpicon of of butter, peppers cooked sweet peppers cooked in in oil oil added added to to it, it, and and with with small small sweet artichokes, filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of of onions onions cooked cooked in in butter butter artichokes, until very very tender. tender. Garnish Garnish each each end end of of the the serving serving dish dish with with until saffron-flavoured Pilaf of rice (see PILAF). rice (see PILAF). Serve Serve with with the the saffron-flavouredPilafof braising liquor. liquor. braising Roast rib rib of of mutton. mutton CARRÉ cannf DE DE MOUTON MouroN RÔTI nOn -- Trim Trim aU all skin skin Roast from the the rib. rib. Bard pork fat joint. Roast Bard with with pork fat and and tie tie the the joint. Roast in in the the from oven or or on on the the spit. spit. When When itit is is ready, ready, the the inside inside of of the the meat meat oven pinkish in should be be pinkish colour. in colour. should Garnistr with with watercress. watercress. Serve juices, with Serve with with its pan juices, its pan with Garnish the surplus surplusfat (See CULINARY skimmed off. off. (See CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, fat skimmed the Average cooking timefor tirne for roasts). roasts). Average cooking Roast rib rib of of mutton with various various garnishes. garnishes CARRÉ c.q,RR6 DE os Roast mutton with MouroN n6n -- Prepare and cook cook as as indicated indicated in in the the preMOUTON RÔTI Prepare and vious garnish indicated. the garnish indicated. Serve Serve Surround with with the vious recipe. recipe. Surround with slightly thickened, pan juices, juices, clear clear or or slightly thickened, according to with the the pan the the nature nature of of the the garnish. garnish. Garnishes of rmttton. Garnishes suitable suitable for roast roast rib rib of mutton. All AlI those indicated for Baron Baron of of mutton. mutton. cated for Saddle This cut is is most Saddle of of mutton muttoD. SELLE SELLE DE DE MouroN MOUTON - This commonly commonly roasted roasted and and sometimes sometimes braised braised (see (see CULINARY NARY METHODS). METHODS). It It provides provides an an interrnediate intermediate meat course. course. It It is is served served surrounded surrounded by by the desired desired garnish and with with the the pan pan juices, juices, clear clear or or thickened, depending on on the nature nature of of the the garnish. garnish. All Ail garnishes garnishes indicated indicated for RiD Rib or l-eg Leg of mutton are ofmutton are suitable suitable for for saddle saddle of of mutton. mutton. proceed Cold Cold saddle saddle of of mutton. mutton. sELLE SELLE FRoTDE FROIDE DE DE MouroN MOUTON -- Proceed as as for for Roast Roast of ofleg leg of ofmuf/on, mutton, served served cold. cold. Saddh of mutton mutton ià la la Maintenonr Maintenon. sELLE SELLE nn DE uouroN MOUTON A À ra LA Saddle of MAINTENoNmutton cut Trim aa saddle sadd le of ofmutton cut near near the the upper upper leg. leg. MAINTENON - Trim Braise is three-parts three-parts cooked. cooked. Strain Strain the the stblt stock and and Braise until until itit is leave leave the the meat meat to to cool cool in in it. it. Drain, Drain, and and cut cut thin thin long long slices slices inside inside the the saddle, saddle, leaving leaving the overhang on on either either side. side. Put Put these these slices slices back back inside inside thE the the overhang saddle saddle with with layers layers of of Maintenon Maintenon mixture mixture between between (see (see MXTURES), MIXTURES), all ailpressed pressed close close together, together, so soas as to to reshape reshape the the saddle. saddle. Cover Cover tvrth with Soubise Soubisepurde purée (se (see PUREE) PURÉE) bound bound with with egg. egg. Put Put the the saddle sadd le on on an an oven-proof oven-proof dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and pour pour on on melted meIted butter. butter. pouriound Pour round aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of the the strained strained braising braising stock. stock. Cook Cook in in aa slow slow oven top of of the the saddle saddle isis lightly lightly browned. browned. Serve Serve oven until until the the top with strained and and boiled boiled down. down. withititthe thebraising braisingstock, stock, strained

Shoulderofofmutton mutton Shoulder ballon enenballon

Saddleofmutton of muttonàdlaIaMaintenon Maintenozisisusually garnished with Saddle usuallygamished with braised vegeta vegetables. braised bles. Shoulderof ofmutton muttonenenballon ballon ororen Shou1der enmusette. musette.ÉPAULE fplurl DEos MouroN EN ENBALLON BALLoN(EN (mtMUSETTE) uusmre) - - Bone MOUTON Bonethe theshoulder. shoulder. season, and andshape shape ititinto intoaabail. ball.This season, Thistype rolledmutton typeof ofrolled mutton isis calleden enbal/on ballonor orenenmusette. musette.Braise called Braise the theshoulder shoulder ininthe the (seeCULINARY usual way way(see CULINARY METHODS). usual METHODS). Drain Drainand anduntie. untie. pourthe Glaze. Garnish Garnish according according totothe Glaze. therecipe recipe selected. selected.Pour the braising stock stockover over it. it. braising Shoulder of oflamb larnb en mbal/on ballonmay Shoulder may he bestuffed. stuffed. Shoulder of of mutton muttm ài lalabonne Shou1der bonre femme femmeJ.I.ÉPAULE fp,c,urrDE DEMOUTON MouroN rl BONNE soNNE FEMME rnulre - - Bone Bone the ÀA LA theshoulder shoulder and andseason. season. Stuffwith Stuffwith sausage meat. meat. Rolllengthwise Roll lengthwise and sausage and tie. Half-cookititininbutter tie. Ralf-cook butter or lard. lard. Put Put itit in in an an earthenware or earthenware dish dishlined lined with with 600 600g.g.(1(l lb. lb. oz, Ji potatoes cut cups) potatoes or new 55 OZ., cut to to look look Iike like big big olives olivesir'new $ cups) potatoes, 150 g.g. (5(5 OZ., generous cup) pota toes, 150 oz., generous cup) small small half-cooked half-cooked onions and (5 OZ., and 150 g. (5 150 g. generous cup) onions oz., generous cup) blanched blanched and and fried fried pork lardoons. pour on lardoons. Season Season these pork these ingredients ingredients weIl. well. Pour on melted melted butter. Add Add aa bouquet garni. Cook bouquet garni. butter. Cook inin aa moderate moderate oven, oven. basting frequently. frequently. basting Shoulder of Shou1der of mutton muttm ài lala bonne pr bonne femme femme II. II. ÉPAULE nplulr DE uouror* ÀA LA LA BONNE BoNNE FEMMEMOUTON FEMME - Trim Trim aa shoulder shoulder ofmutton. of mutton. Cut Cut offthe end of of the off the end the bone, do not bone, but but do not bone bone the meat. Brown the meat. Brown itit in in butter in in an an earthenware butter earthenware dish dish and and remove remove itit from from the the dish. dish. the same In the same butter, butter, lightly lightly brown (5 OZ., g. (5 150 g. brown 150 generous cup) oz., generous cup) blanched and blanched bout 20 and drained pork lardoons drained pork lardoons and· and aabout 20 small smali onions. Take these ingredients out the dish onions. out of ofthe dish and and put put back back the shoulder of mutton. 3t mutton. Surround Surround with (l lb. 55 OZ., g. (lIb. with 600 600 g. oz.,3t cups) quartered potatoes, potatoes, the the small small onions onions and and the the lardoons. lardoons. Pour butter over the the dish. dish. Season. Season. Cook Cook in in the the oven, oven, basting basting frequently. frequently. Shoulder of mutton Shou1der mutton ài la la bou1angère. boulanglre. ÉPAULE EpluLu DE or MOUTON uouroN ÀA LA BouLANcinE BOULANGÈRE -- Bone LA Bone the the shoulder, (Roll shoulder, season season inside. inside. (Roll lengthwise, if desired.) desired.) Tie. Tie. Cook for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Surround Surround (ll OZ., g. (II 2i cups) sliced onions or about with 300 g. oz.,2f about 20 20 smaU small onions tossed in butter. Season and and pour the the cooking cooking butter butter basting frequently. over them. Finish cooking in the oven, oven, basting frequently. Just before serving, serving, add aa few tablespoons Just tablespoons thickened thickened brown brown stock. stock. ÉPAULE DE MOUTON À Shou1der of mutton ià la bourgeoise. 6pnur.u Shoulder on uouroN A LA BouRcEorsn BOURGEOISE - Bone the the shoulder and and stuff stuff it it if if desired. Ll desired. When the joint is half-cooked, half-cooked, drain drain and and put put it it in Braise. When in another braising braising pan pan or or in in a a deep deep earthenware earthenware disi dish with another with 66 carrots (200 (200 grams, 7 oz.), cut cut to to look look like Iike big big olives olives smaU carrots small and half-cooked half-cooked in in butter, butter, 20 20 small smaU glazed onions (150 (150 and gJazed onions grams, 55 oz.),175 oz.), 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz.,lt oz., 11 cups) cups) coarsely coarsely diced diced belly bellyof grams, of pork, blanched blanched and and browned. browned. Moisten Moisten with with the the strained strained pork, cooking stock. stock. Cover Cover and and finish finish cooking cooking all ail together together in in the the cooking oven. oven. ÉPAULE Braised shoulden shou1der of of mutton mutton with with various varions garnishes garnishes. EplurE Braised Bone the the shoulder. shoulder. Season Season inside inside with with DE MouroN MOUTON sRArsE BRAISÉE - Bone Dts saltand and pepper. pepper. Roll Rolllengthwîse and tie. tie. salt lengthwise and

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MUTTON MUTTON The The sauce sauce for forpistache pistache of ofmutton mutton can can also also be be thickend thickend with with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. ps Shoulden Shoulder of of mutton motton ià la la chipolata. chipolata. fplur,e ÉPAULE DE uouroN MOUTON A À LA LA cHIpoLATA CHIPOLATA - Bone Bone and and braise. braise. Proceed Proceed as as for for Shouldu Shou/der of of mutton mutton dà la la bourgeorse, bourgeoise, garnishing garnishing with with chipolata chipolata sausages. sausages. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) Shoulder Shoulder of of muttm mutton tn in ielly. jelly. fpeurr ÉPAULE DE DE MouroN MOUTON rNr EN cnrfe GELÉEBone Bone the the shoulder. shoulder. Stutrwith Stuff with aa Fircforcemeat Fine forcemeat (see (see FORCEFORCEMEAT) MEAT) mixed mixed with with lean le an diced diced ham ham with with I1 or or 22 eggs eggs to to bind bind lengthwise and it. iL Roll Rolllengthwise and tie. tie. Put Put the the shoulder shoulder in in aa stock stock mixed mixed wth with mireporx mirepoix (q.v.). (q.v.). Cook Cook for for I1 hour. hour. Drain Drain the the meat meat and and leave leave it it to to cool cool under under aa weight. weight. Untie. Untie. Skim Skim off off surylus surplus fat fat from and strained strained aspic aspic from the the stock. stock. Mix Mix in in aa little little concentrated concentrated and jelly. Pour over over the the meat meat and and leave leave to to cool. cool. Put Put the the shoulder shoulder jelly. Pour in in an an earthenware earthenware dish dish on on aa foundation foundation of of jelly jelly set set firmly; firmly; cover coyer completely completely with with half-set half-set jelly. jelly. Leave Leave until until quite quite cold. cold. Serve Serve in in the the earthenware earthenware dish. dish. Shoulder Shoulder of of muttm mutton with with rice. rice. fpitulE ÉPAULE DE DE MouroN MOUTON AU AU RIz RIZthree-parts and tie. Bone. Bone. Roll Roll lengthwise lengthwise and rie. Braise Braise until until three-parts stock. thin stock. amount of cooked, cooked, moistening moistening with with aa fair fair amount of rather rather thin (1 lb. 3 oz'' g' (1 500 g. Add 500 another saucepan. Drain Drain and and put put it in in another saucepan. Add lb. 3 oz., stock. strained stock. with the Moisten with cups) parboiled 3| cups) 3! parboiled rice. rice. Moisten the strained all together. together Finish cooking ail Finish cooking DE MOUTON MouroN 6pAws DE braised" ÉPAULE muttoq braised. of mutton, shoulder of Stuffed shoulder inside. and season season inside. shoulder and Bone the the shoulder sRAtsfo - Bone FARcIE FARCIE BRAISÉE (see FORCEMEATS, Por& FORCEMEATS, Pork pork stuffing stufing (sec Fine pork with Fine Stuff with Stuff (5 oz., g. (5 cups) o2.,1| 150 g. with 150 mixed with or stuffingJine) stuffing,fine) mixed li cups) forcemeat or very tender tend€r and until very in bu butter cooked in onions cooked chopped onions Uer until 14 g.1I for 500 500 g. quantities are are for These quantities parsley. These chopped parsley. tableipoon chopped tablespoon with salt, salt, well with Season weil (1 lb. stuffing. Season generous 22 cups) cups) stuffing. lb. 33 oz., generous (1 and tie. tie. lengthwise and shoulder lengthwise Roll the the shoulder pepper and and spices. spices. Roll pepper with mutton with Braised mutton for Braised recipe for in the the recipe as indicated indicated in Braise as Braise garnishes. various garnishes. various Pour 'on bn the the preceding recipe. recipe. Pour in the the preceding as indicated indicated in Garnish as and strained. strained. down and boiled down stock, boiled braising stock, braising la bourguignonne. bouguignonne. en daube daube à la mutton en of mutton shoulder of Strffd shoulder Stuffed nour'culcNoNNE A LA Ll BOURGUIGNONNEDAUBts À EN DAUBE FARCIE EN MouroN FARCIE DE MOUTON 6plur.u DE ÉPAULE (see pork stuffing stuffing (see fine pork with fine Stuff itit with Bone the the shoulder. shoulder. Stuff Bone to this adding STUFFINGS), FOR FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS FOR STUFFINGS), ad ding to this 1I very tender, tender, 33 until very in butter butter until cooked slowly slowly in onion cooked chopped onion chopped (q.v.), and some and some (scant t cup) dry duxelles duxelles (q.v.), cup) dry tablespoons (scant tablespoons parsley. chopped parsley. chopped (en ballon musette, see see en musette, or en ballon or ball (en into aa bail Roll the the shoulder shoulder into Roll drain, half-cooked, drain, When itit isis half-cooked, wine. When red wine. in red and braise above), and braise in above), 2N g.gAdd 200 dish. Add earthenware dish. put itit in deep earthenware in aa deep and put untie and untie glazed 20 small smallglazed in butter, butter, 20 (7 oz., tossed in mushrooms tossed cups) mushrooms o2.,2 (7 2 cups) (4 oz., coarsely cup) coarsely or, 1I cup) 125 g.g. (4t (150 grams, grams,5 oz.\, 125 onions (150 onions 5 oz.), with Moisten with and'browned. pork, blanched blanched and· of pork, diced belly belly of browned. Moisten diced tabletablespoons (3(3 tableAdd 22 tablespoons stock. Add cooking stock. the strained strained cooking the flour-andwith flour-andSeal with dish. Seal thedish. Cover the brandy. Coyer blazing brandy. spoons) blazing spoons)

Put itit in in aa buttered buttered braising braising pan pan lined lined with with pork pork skin skin or or Put bacon rinds, rinds, carrots carrots and and onions onions sliced sliced and and tossed tossed in in butter. butter. bacon Surround the the shoulder shoulder with with its its bones bones and and trimmings trimmings cut cut into into Surround small pieces pieces and and tossed tossed in in butter. bu tter. Add Add aa latge large bouquet bouquet garni garni small (q.v.). (q.v.). Season. Season. Cover Coyer and and cook cook gently gently for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Moisten with with 22 dl. dl. (* (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) dry dry white white wine. wine. Boil Boil Moisten down. Add Add 44 dl. dl. G(à- pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) thickened thickened brown brown stock stock down. and 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scantI (scant t cap) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). and Bring to to the the boil. boil. Bring Coyer and and cook cook in in the the oven oyen for for about about 1| I"Î hours. hours. Drain Drain and and Cover unrie the the shoulder. shoulder. Glazn, Glaze in in the the oven. oyen. Put Put itit on on aa dish dish and and untie surround with with a a suitable suitable garnish. gamish. Boil Boil down down the the braising braising surround stock, remove remove surplus surplus fat, fat, strain strain and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. stoch Suitable garnishes garnishes for for braised braised shoulder shoulder of of mutton' mutton. Nl AlI Suitable Braised for garnishes indicated for Braised rh rib of of mutton, mut ton, especially especially garnishes indicated -Bretonnc Bretonne garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES), GARNISHES), various various vegetable vegetable purées, dri-ed dried vegetables vegetables in particular (see (sec PUREE),.risotto, PURÉE),.risotto, pur6es, and pasta pasta prepared prepared in various various ways. ways. and Shoulder of of mutton mutton ià lr la bretonne. bretonne. rp,q'urr ÉPAULE os DE MouroN MOUTON A À LA, LA Shoulder with white haricot BRETONNE - Bone and braise. braise. Garnish with BREToNNE beans d àh la bretonne bretonne (see (see BEANS), or or beans or small Kidney beans beans (see with a a puree purée of of White White haricot haricot beans d à h la bretonne bretonne (sec with PURÉE). Pour the strained braising stock stock over over the shoulder. strained braising PUREE). of nutton mutton with with red cabbage cabbage ài la flamandeflamande. tpluI,s ÉPAULE Shoolder of Shoulder le rr-lueNoe MOUTON ALx AUX cHoux CHOUX RoucEs, ROUGFS, A À LA FLAMANDE -- Bone the DE MouroN lengthwise and tie. Braise Rolllengthwise shoulder and stuff stuff if desired. Roll dish with deep earthenware dish until half-cooked. half-cooked. Line aa deep with red until (see CAB CABBAGE) laflamanfu (see BAGE) but which prepared àd laflamande cabbage prepared and coyer cover s1 this bed bed and is only half-cooked. half-cooked. Lay the shoulder on oven. the oyen. Cover and cook slowly in the with more red cabbage. Coyer back When the shoulder is ready, drain and untie it. Put it back it aa few few tablein the cabbage. Pour over it in the the dish on top of the spoons of stock. ue fplur,E DE eu pistache. ÉPAULE or en Shoulder of mutton ài la catalane or (F.I PISTACHE) Bone the the shoulder, shoulder, ntsucru) -- Bone MOUTON A LA r.l, CATALANE cernr,AI.IE (EN MouroN À large lined with 1I large in aa saucepan saucepan lined rolllengthwise roll lengthwise and tie. Put itit in and carrot. carrot. (not smoked), onion and sliced onion slice of raw harn smoked), 1I sliced ham (not goose (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) goose Season. tablespoons (3 over itit 22 tablespoons Season. Pour Pour over 30 25 to to 30 for 25 gently on on the the stove stove for fat cook gently and cook lard. Coyer fat or Cover and or lard. out of of the the of ham ham out slice of and the the slice minutes. Take the shoulder and minutes. Take the shoulder (3 tablespoons) in it.it. flour in tablespoons) flour pan. pan. Brown tablespoons (3 Brown 22 tablespoons dl. Add 44 dl. wine. Add white wine. (* pint, pint" scant cup) white Moisten scant cup) dl. (t with 22 dl. Moisten with well; Mix weI!; clear soup. soup. Mix or clear (à-(* pint, stock or pint" scant cups) brown brown stock scant 22 cups) joint, and in the the back in ham, diced, diced, back of harn, strain. and the the slice slice of Put the the joint, strain. Put garlic and and aa bouquet bouquet of garlic cloves of saucepan. 50 blanched blanched cloyes Add 50 saucepan. Add peel' Moisten Moisten piece dried orange peel. dried orange (q.v.\ containing garni garni (q.v.) containing 1I piece oven moderate oyen in aa moderate and cook cook in with Cover and cooking stock. stock. Coyer with the the cooking for hour. for about about 1I hour. over itit dish. Pour Pour over on aa dish. Drain Put on shoulder. Put and untie untie the the shoulder. Drain and garlic. the of garlic. cloves of and the the cloyes the sauce sauce and

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(Inrousse) of mutton(Larousse) shoulderofmutton Rolledshoulder Rolled

(Latousse) Untrimmed of mutton (Larousse) shoulderofmutton Untrimmed shoulder

619

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MYRTLE MYRTLE paste and water paste and cook cook inin the theoven ovenfor 45 minutes for 45 minutes toto1I bour, hour, water according to to tbe thesize sizeof of the theshoulder. shoulder. according Shoulderof of mutton muttm witb with trnnipo ÉPAULE 6p,lurn DE DE MOUTON MouroN AUX Atx Sboulder NAvErs Bone the shoulder shoulder and stuff if desired. RolliengthRoll lengthNAVETS -- Bone the wise and and tie. tie. Braise Braise until until three-parts cooked. cooked. Drain, put the Drain, put the wise shoulder in in another another saucepan (2 lb. sauoepan with 1I kg. kg. (2 lb. 33oz., oz.,seant scant 66 shoulder cups) tender tender tumips, turnips, cut cut to look like like big to look olives and big olives and browned browned cups) in butter, and 30 (9 oz.) butter, and 30 sm g. (9 small onions 250 250 g. oz.) aiso also browned browned in in in ail onions the frying pan. the Skim all fat off off the the braising braising stock, stock, strain, pour over strain, and and pour over the dish. dish. Finisb Finish cooking cooking ail all together. together. the Slicd muttol1. mutton ÉMINCÉS nrr,rnrcfs DE DEMOUTON Mor.rroN -- Prepare with cooked Sliced mutton, in in the (see BEEF). the same way as same way as Sliced Slicedbeef mutton, beef(see (Car€me,s recipe). Braised sheep's sheep's tails tails (Carême's recipe). QUEUES DB MOUTON MouroN euEUEs DE Braised nndsfss -- 'Take 12 medium-sized 'Take 12 medium-sized tails. tails. Soak Soak in in co cold water BRAISÉES Id water for 1I hour. hour. Pour Pour boiling boiling water water over over them. them. Line saucepan Line aa saucepan for with mutton mutton trimmings, (q.v.), 22 onions, garni (q.v.), trimmings, aa bouquet bouquet garni onions, 22 with carrots. Cover with thin Cover with thin strips pork. Tie strips of of belly belly of of pork. Tie the the tails tails carrots. pairs. Moisten in pairs. good c1ear with good Moisten witb clear soup. soup. Cook for li l| hours. Cook for hours. in Drain the the tails and put them tails and thern in in aa press. Skim Skim ail all fat fat off off the the Drain jelly. When the stock; boil boil down down almost to to aa jelly. the tails tails are are cold, cold, stock;

trimthem andheat themand heatslowly slowly ininthe reducingthis thestock, stock, reducing thisslowly slowly trim jelly.Tum liquid jelly. Turn the the tails tailsover over and andover overso sothat are that they they are totoaaliquid thoroughly irnnr'>OT1I"t"f'i impregnated with with this thrWI"'t110hhl this liquid jelly. Serve Serve them them like cutlets, with Espagnole sauce (see SAUCE), boiled down boileddown like (reduced) toto halfits half its volume.' (reduced) (Car0me,s recipe). QUEUES Gdlld sheep's sherp's tails taib(Carême's DEMOUTON MouroN Grilled. erJEr.JEr DE plc'NErs crurdss-Prepare 12 sheep's tails as indicated PANÉES GRILLÉES - Prepare 12 sheep's as indicated ininthe the previous recipe, recipe, trim trirn them, them, dip them them inin melted melted butter butter and and breadcrumbs, and grill until and grill good colour. until they are areaagood colour. Serve Serve with Hachée Hachde sauce sauce or (sen, SAUCE). or aa thin thin Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see with Sheep's tongues tongues -- See See OFF OFFAL OR VVARIETY Sbeep's AL OR ARIETY MEATS. Sheep's trotters trotters -- See SeeOFFAL OFFAL OR VARIETY MEATS. OR VARIETY MEATS. Sheep's MYRTLE. MYRTE MyRrE -- Fragrant Fragrant evergreen evergreen shrub shrub corumon common aU MYRTLE. all over Europe. Europe. Myrtle Myrtle berries berries were were used place of in place pepper usedin over of pepper among the ancients, and the ancients, and ev gave their even their name name to among en gave to aa stew, stew, myrtalum. There There was was also also aa spiced spiced wine wine made from myrtle myrtle myrtalum. made from (Myrtidanum). (Myrtidanum). pepper myrtle has The pepper has leaves leaves similar similar to to those The those of of the the bay bay powdered berries tree. Its Its nO'wden~ berries are are known known as pepper. as Jamaican Jamaican pepper. tree. MYSOST -_ See See CHEESE. CHEESE. MYSOST

620 620

and Savoie Savoie cakes which,like NAPOLITAIN NAPOLITAIN - Large Large cakes which, like breton breton and once used were once and croquembouche, croquembouche, were cakes, millefeuilles and used to to

NAGE (A (À L.q,) LA) -- Method of preparing 1-/'''lJd1ucIJolrl, whichcovers coversaawide wide area, usuallyextends area,usually extendsfrom from 15 April toto1515 July. July. TheEuropean European strawberry strawberry cornes comes from The from the the Haubois Hauboisstrawstrawitsflesh berry: its flesh isisfinn firmand andfragrant. fragrant. AA closely related berry: related species speciesisis the Alpine Alpine strawberry. strawberry. The perpetual strawberry isisaavariety The perpetual the variety of this. ofthis. Large strawberries strawberries came came from from the Large the United United States States and and (Fragaria virginiana), Canada (Fragaria virginiana'), and (Fragaria Canada and from fromChile Chtle (Fragaria chiloensis). They They were were imported imported into chiloensis). intoFrance France by naval officer byaanaval officer named Fréziers, Fr6ziers, and and are are still named still cultivated cultivated today the region today inin the regionof of

STR.AII\ING BAG. BAG. CHAUSSE cHAUssE -- Funnel Funnel in in felt felt or used to orcloth cloth used to STRAINING particularly syrups. liquids, particularly clarify liquids, syrups. c1arify plrr,r"oN - Straw STRAW-CASE. PAlLLON wrapping in in which which boules bottles STRAW-CASE. - Straw wrapping are transported. This This straw, straw, after after treatment treatment in in boiling boiling water, water, is also used for for'dressing' the bottles. bottles. 'dressing' the

STRAWS. ALLUMETTEs -- Strips of puffpastry of puff cooked in in the the STRA WS. ALLUMETTES pastry cooked with different garnishes. (See also oven, with different garnishes. also ALLUMETTES.) ALLUMETTES.) oven, Anchovy straws. straws. ALLUMETTES ALLTJMETTES AUX puff AUx ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Coat Coat the the puff pastry with Fish (see FORCEMEATS) Fisft forcemeal FORCEMEATS) blended blended pastry forcemeat (see with Anchovy (see BUTTER, Anchovy butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). with Garnish each each strip strip with with an an anchovy anchovy fillet, fillet, trimmed trimmed and and Garnish desalted. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oven. desalted. Sfraws ài la la chalmmaise. chalonnaise. ALLUMETTES ALLUMETTHT À A LA La CHALONNAISE cH,qloNNArsE -Straws Coat the the puff pastry with with aa Chicken (see Chicken forcemeat (see Coat FORCEMEATS) blended with with cream cream and very finely and with aa very finely chopped mixture mixture of cocks' combs, of cocks' combs, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffies chopped added to to it. it. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oven. added Ctcese straws. sfraws. ALLUMETTES ALLUMETTES AU AU FROMAGE FRoMAcn -- Cheese Cheese straws, straws, Cheese which are are served served as as aa cold cold hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre and and as as an an acc:ornp,anlaccompaniwhich ment to to cheeses, cheeses, are puffpastry are made made of of puff with the the addition of of ment pastry with grated cheese finely grated cheese during during the last last rolling rolling out. out. The The straws straws are are finely placed on then cut, cut, placed on aa baking tray, tray, and and sprinkJed grated sprinkled with with grated then Parmesan. Pannesan. Creyfsh straws. straws. ALLUMETTES ALLUMETTEs AUX AUx CREVETTES cREvETTEs -- Coat Coat the the Crayfish puff pastry pastry with with finely finely minced minced Fish (see Fish forcemeat puff forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) blended with with Crayfish (see Crayfish butter butter (see FORCEMEA TS) blended BUTTER, Compound butters) butters) and and with with aa finely finely chopped chopped BUTTER, mixture crayfish tails added to it. Bake in the oven. of crayfish mixture of

Plougastel.

(also called Pine strawberries strawberries (also mon garden strawbercalled corn common strawberries) originating originating from from Carolina Carolina are are really really hybrids of of that that species.

The beautiful beautiful Madame Madame Tallien Tallien bathed in strawberry bathed in strawberry water water

to keep her her skin skin soft lb.) were (221b.) soft and and velvety. velvety. About About 10 l0 kg. kg. (22 were for each crushed for her baths. each of ofher baths. Fontanelle adored adored strawberries FontaneUe strawberries and and ate ate them them daily daily when when they were were in in season. season. they people are Some people Sorne are allergie allergic to to strawberries. strawberries. Cooking Cooking them them for for few moments moments in in boiling boiling water aa few water can can counteract counteract this. this. Strawberries must Strawberries gathered because must be be eaten eaten freshly freshly gathered because they do not not keep. keep. They They are do are used used to to make make aa soft soft drink drink and and for for the extraction of extraction of spirits. spirits. They They may may also also be pur6ed. be eaten eaten puréed. jam-making. Strawberries are used Strawberries are used for for jam-making. Bavarian cre Sfrawberry Bavarian SO'al'l'beIITV am - See V ARIAN CREAM. creamSee BA BAVARIAN CREAM. Cardinal strawberries. shawberries. FRAlSES FRArsEs CARDINAL cARDTNAL -- Arrange weil well chilled strawberries strawberries in chilled in aa fruit fruit dish. dish. Cover Cover them them with aa puree of sweetened sweetened purée of ripe ripe raspberries. raspberries. SprinkJe Sprinkle with with finely finely chopped chopped almonds. almonds. Strawberries Strawbenies in in cbampagne. champagno. FRArsBs AU cHAMrAGNE Sugared Sugared strawberries strawberries are are arranged in individual dishes or in a fruit dish and sprinkJed sprinkled with with Champagne. Chili Chill thoroughly. thoroughly. SO'lulrberry Shawberry compote J. I. COMPOTE coMporE DE DE FRAISES FRArsEs -- Remove Remove stems stems and and clean the strawberries. strawberries. Add Add severa! several tablespoons tablespoons boiling boiling sugar sugar syrup. syrup. Let I-et the the fruit fruit soak soak in in this this syrup syrup for for sorne some time. time. Serve hot or cold. Strawberry Sfoawberry compote II. COMPOTE corvrpors DE g. DE FRAISES FRArsEs -- Cook Cook 250 250 g. (9 oz., (9 oz., generous cup) sugar and and 1I dl. dl. (f pint, 3 cup) water to the third degree (see SUGAR). Add to this syrup I kg. (2f lb.) large strawberries. Soak, covered, for! for l00 minutes. Strawberry Condé. Cond6. FRAlSES FRArsEs CONDÉ coNof -- SprinkJe Sprinkle the the fruit fruit with with sugar and kirsch. Leave to soak in aa cool place. Arrange in a pyramid pyramid in Arrange in aa border of of rice which has has been been cooked in milk with sugar and and vanilla and and bound with egg egg yolk. yo!k. It is then moulded in aa ring mould, mould, cooked in in aa bainbainmarie, cooled marie, cooled and turned out. Serve with a sweet purée puree of strawberries and raspberries. and raspberries. FRAISES A À r,c, LA cRirrdE CRÈME - Arrange Strawberries and Sfrawberries and cream. cream. FRAISES - Arrange strawberries in aa glass dish or or individual individua! dishes. strawberries dishes. Sprinkle with with sugar and cover with thick thick fresh cream cream or sweetened whipped sugar cream. cream. FRAISES rzARrNE TZARINE - Stand aa dish Strawberries Czarina. FRArsEn dish on on - Stand ice ice. Cover the bottom with a layer of of pineapple ice cream. ice. cream. Arrange large large strawberries, strawberries, soaked soaked in kummel kummel and and sugar sugar and Arrange and chilled, on on the the ice ice cream. cream. chilled, Decorate with with Chantilly cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) piped Decorate through aa forcing forcing bag bag with with aa large large fluted fluted nozzle. nozz!e. Sprinkle with through candied violets. violets. candied Strawberry ice mixture. coMposrrroN COMPOSITION AUx AUX FRArsEs FRAISES pouR POUR Sfrawberry GLACES - Mix t litre pint, 2i cups) cups) strawberry strawberry pur6e purée cLAcEs $ litre (scant pint,2t

pArLLEs - Potato cut Ipncrtl,n/""'" STRAW POTATOES. POTATOES. PAILLES lengthways into STRAW very very thin thin strips, then deep-fried. (See POTATOES.) pdLLE -- Wines made from STRAW vrN DE DE PAlLLE from grapes STRAW WINES. WINES. VIN which are left to dry on straw straw mats for sorne some time time before before being which are pressed. Tbe vin (Ch6teau-Chalon) is of Jura (Château-Chalon) is very pressed. The vin de paille paille of well weil known. known.

STRAWBERRY. STRAWBERRY. nnusn FRAlSE -- Plant of of the rose family common throughout It began to be cultivated in the thirteenth throughout Europe. Europe. It be cultivated thirteenth century. six species of century. Five Five or or six of strawberries were were known. From of varieties have been From these these aa number ofvarieties been cultivated. culLÏvated. Strawberries are classified small groups: sm ail strawclassified into two groups:

t

Wffi^W

ffiffiffi Some varieties of strawberry : a. a. Margucrite; Marguerite; b. b. Reinedes quatre-saison; c. Louis Gauthier; d. Doctor c.e. Saint ",aUH Antoine; n.lHU"";. f. Viscountess H6ricart de Thurv

Morere:

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STRITZEL STRITZEL ItIt isis essential essential not to allow allow the the lemon peel peel to boil with with the compote compote as the tbe taste will wiIJ be be entirely entirely different. different. Glac6 Glacé sfiawberry strawberry tomatoes tomatoes in caramel. caramel. lxfrnrqcss ALKÉKENGES crlcfBs CARAMEL - Open the fruit and roll in powdered GLACÉES AU cARAMEL gum gum arabic. Dip Dip into sugar sugar syrup syrup cooked cooked to to crack crack degree degree (see (see SUGAR). Take out out with a perforated perforated spoon spoon and place place on a marble or slab slab of ofmarble or on a lightly !ightly greased greased metal sheet. sheet. rExrNcEs Glac6 Glacé strawberry tomatoes tomatoes in fodant fondant icing. icing. lI ALKÉKENGES with Fondant cLAcfiFs FONDANT - Coat with Fondant icing icing (see (see ICING) GLACÉES AU FoNDANT whiten white, pink pink or yellow, yellow, flavoured with kirsch, kirsch, raspberry or pineapple pineapple essence. fruit stalk. Hold Open calyx and turn Open the thecalyx turn back back to form form a stalk. Hold the fruit fondant icing. Drain by the end of of the calyx and dip into hot fondant with icing sugar. Put and place on a tray sprinkled with Put into paper cases. jam. CONFITURE o'^l,lr6,rExcEs coNFITURE D'ALKÉKENGES Strawberry tomato tomato jam. g. (lt ke. (2i Ingredients. Ingredients. 1I kg. Q* lb.) strawberry tomatoes, 750 g. (l pint, pint, 21 2f cups) water. lb., Si 5| cups) loaf loaf sugar, 6 dl. (1 Method. Make Make a syrup of the sugar and water and add the removed. Bring to with their calyxes calyxes removed. strawberry strawberry tomatoes, with Remove scum as it forms. the boil. Remove forms . Boil for about 20 minutes. stove and leave thejam the jam to cool Draw the pan to the side of of the stoveand Draw jam. jars and seallike Fut into jars other jam. seal like any other a little. Put tomato syrup. symp. SIROP srRop D'ALKÉKENGESo'^alKfKENcEs Sfrawberry tomato Strawberry (3| (311b.) tomatoes, 11 l| kg. kg. (31 Ingredients.l* Ingredients. 11 kg. (J~ 1b.) strawberry tomatoes, (2f; pints, 3! lj litres (2i 3f pints) water. lb. 7 cups) sugar, 11 Put the into aa large saucepan. the sugar sugar and and water into Method. Put the strawberry tomatoes tomatoes in and and boil Bring to the boil. Drop tbe for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Drain in in aa fine fine sieve, sieve, or cheesecloth placed for it Measure with a saccharometer; it earthenware bowl. Measure over an earthenware (see SUGAR). 28' (see boil SUGAR). If the degree is lower, boil should register 28° an the syrup. Ifit If it is above 28', add add a little little water. water. Whisk Whisk an above 28°, down thesyrup. (6 tablespoons, cup) water water in in aa with 1I dl. dl. (6 scant 1-+ cup) tablespoons, scant egg white witb egg leaving itit whisk. Allow Allow the syrup syrup to clarify, clarify, leaving basin using an egg whisk. gently. simmering very very gently. of the stove, simmering for 20 minutes at the side of gradually Heat the the bottles bottles gradually through aa muslin Strain through muslin bag. bag. Heat Strain securely. and pour in the boiling boiling syrup. syrup. Cork Cork the the bottles, securely. and

with with! litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 2f 2! cups) cups) sugar sugar syrup syrup prepared prepared cold cold (see (see I litre SUGAR). Add Add the the juice juice of of 22 lemons lemons and I1 orange. Add to to SUGAR). this as as much much water water as as isis necessary necessary to to obtain obtain aa mixture mixture of of 16' 16° to this 18° density measured measured by by the the saccharometer. saccharometer. 18'density l'impératrice. FRArsEs FRAISES A À r'nrapinnrRrcE L'IMPÉRATRICE Strawberries à Pimperatrice. Prepare a dish of rice as as for Apricois tt à l'imp2ratrice l'impératrice (see (see Prepare APRICOT). Chill. ChilI. Just Just before before serving serving cover coyer the the rice rice with witb 250 APRICOT). g. (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) large strawberries sweetened with witb vanillaor plain plain sugar. sugar. flavoured or flavoured jamSee JAMS AND AND JELLIES. Strawberry jam Shawberry - See Strawberries with with liqueurs. liqueurs. FRArsEs FRAlSES ALrx AUX LIeIJEURS LIQUEURS - Remove Remove Shawberries sugar them in a dessert dish dish or clean strawberries and sugar stems, clean glasses. Sprinkle with with one one of the the following: following: in individual glasses. brandy, raspberry brandy, brandy, kumkirsch, maraschino, cherry brandy, mel, Fine Fine Champagne (best Cognac) or with some sorne other other mel, liqueur. Serve Serve chilled. chilled. liqueur. maltaise. FRArsEs FRAlSES A À LA rrrlrrusn MALTAlSE - Sugar Sugar Strawberries ià la maltaise. Sfrawberries strawberries, add orange orange juice juice and aa little little Curagao Curaçao and small strawberries, on ice. ice. Put Put this this mixture mixture into baskets made made of of the oranges cool on Arrange on a dish which the juice has been extracted. Arrange from which wi th crushed crushed ice. ice. covered with covered Iced strawberry mousse -- See ICE CREAMS AND ICES, mousses mous seline s. IIced ced mous se s or mousselines. Strawberry PULPE DE FRAISES POUR GLACES FouR GLAcES Sfrawberry pulp for ices. pulpn very ripe ripe strawberries through tbrough aa fine fine sieve. sieve. To 1I litre Rub very (l| pints, generous (scant (scant pint, pint, 2! 2| cups) ofthisjuice ofthisjuice add 1I litre litre (It quart) sugar syrup 35° measured by the saccharometer quart) syrup at 35o saccharometer (see juice of IIlemon. SUGAR) thejuice well. Place Place in a cburn churn SUGAR) and the lemon. Mix weil. freezer. freezst. put.pE DE Strawberry pulp for ices, bottled. CONSERVE DE PULPE for iceg coNsERvE DE FRAISES PouR POUR GLACES Make aa purée pur6e of fresb fresh strawberries FRArsEs cLAcEs -- Make and pass through through a very fine sieve. sieve. Add 250 g. (9 oz., generous (2f lb.) fruit. Mix thoroughly cup) thoroughly and put cup) sugar to each 1I kg. (2! into preserving preserving jars. Close Close jars and place in aa canning kettle. Coyer to Boil for 5 to minutes and and leave to to 6 minutes Cover with cold water. Boil cool out, wipe and and seal cool in the canning kettle. Take the jars out, them. Keep in aa cool place in a slanting position. Strawberry ratafia. as for ratafia. RATAFIA RATAFIA DE DE FRAlSES FRArsEs -- Proceed Proceed as Raspberry (see LIQUEUR) using ripe Raspberry liqueur (see ripe strawberries instead of raspberries.. of raspberries Strawberry sauce -- See See SAUCE, SAUCE, Dessert sauces. ·See SOUFFLÉS, Strawberry soufflé soufl6 --'See SOUFFLES, Sweet Sweet soufflés. souffiis. Strawberry tarts and tartlets ARTS, TTARTLETS. AR TLETS. tartleb -- See See T TARTS, Strawberries vINs DE DE dessert wines. FRAlSES FRArsEs AUX AUx VINS Strawberries with various dessert LIQUEURS strawberries. Dredge Dredge LIQLJEURS - Remove Remove stems stems and and clean clean strawberries. with glass dishes dishes or sugar. Arrange in individual glass or in in aa fruit fruit with sugar. Arrange in dish. sherry, dish. Sprinkle with with Frontignan, Frontignan, muscatel, muscatel, Madeira, Madeira, sherry, port or Marsala. Serve chilled. Serve chilled.

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petals off offthe stalk To take the the leaves leaves or or petais EFFEUILLER -- To STRIP. the stalk STRIP. EFFEUILLER globe artichoke if the the heart heart only only isis Thus globe artichoke is stripped stripped if of aa plant. Thus also stripped stripped such as as chervil chervil and and sorrel, sorrel, are are also used. Herbs, Herbs, such to be used. before use.

(Anstrian cookery) In Austria Austria the the stritzel stritzelisthe cookery) -- In STRITZEL is the STRITZEL (Austrian classic Christmas cake cake.. classic Christmas (9 oz., (2* lb., g. (9 250 g. oz., cups) sifted sifted fiour, flour, 250 kg. (2i lb., 99 cups) Ingredients. Ingredients.l1 kg. (i (2t oz., g. (1 g. (21 sugar, 15 generous cup) I 5 g. cup) sugar, cup) butter, butter, 66 eggs, eggs, 60 60 g. oz't cup) generous (scant pint, yeast, I litre pint, 2i 2| cups) cups) warm warm milk, milk, fresh yeast,! litre (scant oz., 1 cake) fresh oz.,lcake) raisins, 22lemons, oz., tf; cup) cup) each each sultanas sultanas and and raisins, nS g.g. (41 125 lemons, 11{ t Gi oz., pinch of pinch of grated nutmeg of salt, aa pinch nutmeg and and aa pinch teaspoons of grated teaspoons salt, powdered cumin. cumin. quarter of little the fiour, flour, aa little of the dough with with aa quarter Method. Method. Make Make aa dough yeast, salt, Leave nutmeg and and aa !ittle little butter. butter. Leave milk, the yeast, salt, sugar, sugar, nutmeg milk, the to to rise. rise. the to itit the the rest rest 'of bf the Knock back dough after after adding adding to Knock back the the dough raisins and and the raisins the eggs, remaining butter, butter, the fiour. flour. Add Add the eggs, the the remaining (see in the way as as for for Brioche Brioche dough dough (see sultanas and work work in the same same way sultanas and Leave to to rise rise keeping the fairly firm firm.. Leave mixture fairly DOUGH), DOUGH), keeping the mixture again. again. pieces -- 99 Divide itit into into pieces Knock more. Divide dough once Knock back back the the dough once more. medium and and 22 small. small. 4 large, 3 medium are needed to to make make aa stritzel: are needed stitzel;4large,3 plait pieces into same length length and and plait 'tails' of Make all these these pieces into 'tails' of the the same Make ail plait on Plait baking sheet. sheet. Plait the 4 largest. Lay Lay this this plait on aa buttered buttered baking the 4largest. place on Twist top of of the the first. first. Twist the medium-sized tails tails and and place on top the 33 medium-sized plaits. Stick the Stick the the ends ends smallest tails tails and and set set on on top top of of the the plaits. the 22 smallest together neatly. Leave Leave to to rise rise aa little. little. together neatly. caraway Brush little salt salt and and caraway with egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with aa little Brush with seeds. Bake in in aa fairly fairly hot hot oyen. seeds. Bake oven.

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STRAWBERRY TOMATO. Fruit originating originating TOMATO. ALKÉKENGE N,rfrsNce -- Fruit lied Mexican in it isis ca It isis one one of of tomato. It in Mexico Mexico where where it called Mexican tomato. several plant physalis. The tomato plant several species species of The strawberry strawberry tomato of physalis. belongs to potato. and the the potato. to the the same same family family as as tbe the tomato tomato and Strawberry grows very in the south very weil tomato grows well in in France, France, in the south Strawberry tomato and husk tomato tomato or or It isis sometimes sometimes called called husk around Paris. Paris. It and around winter our yellow in in col colour cherry. The The fruit fruit isis the the size size of cherry, yellow winter cherry. of aa cberry, and parchmenthas aa sour-sweet sour-sweet taste. taste. It It isis surrounded surrounded by by aa parchmentand has like yellowish-grey in not open. in colour, does not open. which does like calyx, calyx, yellowish-grey colour, whicb Strawberry tomatoes are are used used in in confectionery. confectionery. Strawberry tomatoes Strawberry compote. COMPOTE coMporu D'ALKÉKENGES D'AIKEKENcES -tomato compote. Shawberry tomato Ingredients. ( I 8 oz., (21 lb.) g. (18 oz., kg. (2i lb.) strawberry strawberry tomatoes, tomatoes, 500 500 g. Ingredients. 1I kg. 2icups) (] pint, pint, scant peel of sugar, 22 dl. water, peel of 1I lemon. lemon. 2| cups) sugar, dl. (1 scant cup) cup) water, Method. to the the boil boil Make aa syrup syrup of of sugar sugar and and water, water, bring bring to Method. Make and removed their their and add add the the strawberry strawberry tomatoes, tomatoes, baving having removed calyxes. Cook for for 55 minutes. minutes. calyxes. Cook Remove perforated spoon, to an an spoon, transfer transfer to Remove tbe the fruit fruit with with aa perforated earthenware put the peel in Boil in the the middle. middle. Boil and put the lemon lemon peel earthenware bowl bowl and down pour itit over the syrup syrup and and pour over the the fruit. fruit. down the 903 903

STROMATEUS STROMATEUS slicesor orfricandeau whichare arebraised llkefricandeauofofveal. braised likefricandeau slices veal. fricandeauwhich mayalso alsobe besmoked smoked like likesalmon. salmon. ItIt may Sturgeon ài lalaBrimont. Brimont. ESTURGEON EsruRGEoN ÀALA rl BRIMONT snrlroNr - - Fillet Filletaa Sturgeon medium-sized sturgeon. sturgeon. Trim Trim the thefillets. fillets.Thread Threadanchovy anchovy medium-sized fillets into intothem. them. Place Placeininaabaking baking dish dish lined linedwith withafondue fillets a fondue of of carrots, onions onionsand and celery, celery, finely finelysliced slicedand andcooked cookedslowly slowly inin carrots, until very butter until very tender. tender. Cover peeled, chopped Coverwith with22peeled, choppedand butter and deseeded tomatoes tomatoes mixed mixed with with 44tablespoons tablespoons coarsely coarsely diced diced deseeded mushrooms. Surround potatoes cut Surround with with potatoes cutinto intolittle little balls with mushrooms. balls with ball-scoop, half half cooked cooked inin salted salted water waterand and drained. aa bali-scoop, drained. Moisten with with 1I dl. dl.(6(6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant cup)dry scant1f cup) Moisten drywhite white (2oz., wine. Dot Dot with with 50 50g.g.(2 oz.,* cup) butter, pieces. cutinto into tiny wine. i cup) tiny pieces. butter, cut Bake in in aacool cool oven, oven, basting bastingfrequently. frequently. Five Fiveminutes Bake minutesbefore before taking out oftheoven, of the oven, sprinkle sprinkle with with breadcrumbs ta king out breadcrumbs and andbrown brown lightly. Iightly. Stmgeonin Champagne. ESTURGEON EsruRGEoN AU Sturgeon in Champagne. - Skin AU CHAMPAGNE cHAMnAGNTSkin medium-sized sturgeon. sturgeon. Trim Trim it. it.Stud aa medium-sized Stud with with truffies. truffies. Steep for Steep for hour in in aa marinade marinade of of brandy, brandy, salt, pepper. 1I hour salt, spices spices and and pepper. pan on Put the the fish fish in in aa pan grid. Moisten on aa buttered buttered grid. Put Moisten with with fish fish made with with dry dry Champagne, Champagne, boiled fumet boiled down down and and enriched enriched fumet made pint, scant with 22 dl. dl. (1 scant cup) cup)fine with frne mirepoix mirepoix made made of carrots, of carrots, $ pint, onions and and celery, celery, cooked cooked slowly slowly in onions in butter butter until until very very tender. tender. Bring to to the the boil boil on on the the ststove, ove, then Bring cook in in aa moderate then cook moderate oven, basting frequently. basting frequently. oven, Drain the the sturgeon. sturgeon. Glaze Glaze in in the Drain the oven. Place on oven. Place on aalarge large dish dish and surround surround with garnish indicated. with the the garnish and indicated. Moisten the the stock stock with (scant tI pint, with2| 21 dl. Moisten dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) cup) dry champagne. champagne. Boil Boil down. down. Add (scant I pint, dry Add 2+ dl. pint, generous generous dl. (scant clp) Espagnole (see SA Espagnole sauce sauce (see U CE) based cup) SAUCE) based on on fish fish stock, stock, carefully skimmed. skimmed. Boil Boil down. down. Season. carefully g. (4 (4 oz., Season. Add Add 100 100 g. oz., tt cup) butter. butter. Strain. Strain. Pour Pour over cup) over the the fish. fish. Sturgeon braised braised in in champagne Sturgeon champagne can plain in served plain can be be served in its its juice, or own juice, or with with various garnishes. Among own various garnishes. Among the the most most garnishes are suitable garnishes suitable are the the following: following: Chambord, Chambord, mushrooms, mushrooms, cucumbers, turtle, braised cucumbers, turtle, truffies. truffies. Curied sturgeon. stmgeon. ESTURGEON Curried EsruRGEoN AU AU CURRIE cuRRrE -- Cook Cook aa fillet fillet of of sturgeon weighing weighing about (li lb.) g. (Il sturgeon large about 800 800 g. lb.) in in butter, butter, with with 22large sliced onions onions and and aa bouquet garni. Season sliced bouquet garni. pepper Season with with salt, salt, pepper and 2 teaspoons curry powder. Drain and curry powder. Drain the put itit the sturgeon sturgeon and and put on aa serving serving dish. Keep hot. on pan juices with 22 dl. Dilute the panjuices (] pint, scant dl. (1 scant cup) dry white white cup) dry wine. Boil down. Moisten with wine. with 33 dl. pint, li dl. (| pint, lf cups) cups) Velouté Velout| (see SAUCE) sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based based on on fish fish stock. stock. Season Season with with 22 teaspoons curry curry powder mixed with 5 tablespoons (6 tabletablespoons (6 tablespoons) spoons) fresh fresh cream. cream. Boil Boil for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Add Add 33 tablespoons (scant i* cup) butter. butter. Strain this sauce pour over sauce and and pour over the sturgeon. sturgeon. Serve with Rice (see RICE). Rrce àit l'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). Fillets of sturgeon Boris. FILETS FTLETS D'ESTURGEON D'EsruRGEoN BORIS BoRrs -- Flllet Fillet a medium-sized medium-sized sturgeon. sturgeon. Trim the fillets. Steep Steep for 1t hour in in juice, salt, marinade of aa marinade of oil, oil, lemon juice, paprika and salt, paprika and spices. spices. Drain. Put them them in an ovenware pint, scant Put ($pint, ovenware dish lined with 22 dl. (1 scant cup) cup) dry duxelles mixed with chopped chopped chives. Moisten with 22 ($ pint, scant cup) dry white wine. Bring to the boil on the dl. d stove then cover cover and cook in the oven for for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Cover the fillets with coarsely coarsely shredded truffies. Pour the marinade pint, lf li cups) fresh cream. Moisten with 3 dl. (t over them. Moisten (f pint, cream. Dot with with tiny pieces pieces of of butter. butter. Finish cooking Dot cooking in aa cool oven, oven, basting frequently frequently with with cream. Serve Serve in the the ovenware basting ovenware dish. dish. Fricandeau of of stmgeon sturgeon ià la hongroise. FRTcANDEAU FRICANDEAU Fricandeau la hongroise. D'ESTURGEON A À r.,l LA soxcRorsE HONGROISE - Brown D'EsruRcEoN thick slice slice of of - Brown aa thick sturgeon in butter butter with finely diced diced onions. Season sturgeon Season with with salt, salt, paprika and aa bouquet bouquet garni. Moisten Moisten with 22 dl. (1 pint, scant paprika scant $ pint, cup) white wine. Boildown. Boil down. Add Add 33 dl. (t pint, llcups) li cups) Velouté cup)whitewine. (|pint, Veloutt sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based on fish stock. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in aa sauce butter to the sauce sauce and and pour pour it over over the the fish. oven. Add Add butter slow oven. fish. Serve with with boiled potatoes. potatoes. Serve FRICANDEAU D'EsruRGEoN D'ESTURGEON AU AU Fricandeau of ofsturgeon au jus. jus. rnrceNoEAu Fricandeau sturgeon au

Stromateus Stromateus

(Rudderfish). STROMATÉE STROMATEUS (Rudderfish). srRoMArEe -- Fish Fish of of warm warm STROMATEUS and temperate seas, inhabiting temperate seas, inhabiting the the Mediterranean, Mediterranean, where where itit isis and called stromatéefiatole, stromaftefiatole,lapuga, in Nice, Nice, and and lippa, lippa,in Sdte. Its Its called lapuga, in in Sète. flesh is is very very delicate prepared in delicate and and isis prepared in the the same way as as turbot same way turbot ftesh (q.v.). (q.v.). (Bavarian cookery) STRUDEL (Bavarian cookery) -- National National cake cake of of Bavaria. Bavaria. ItIt STRUDEL is made made of noodle pastry pastry with of noodle with extra extra butter butter and and isis rolled rolled out out as as is possible. thinly as as possible. thinly Divide the pastry into the pastry into squares squares and and spread spread each each with with aa Divide mixture of of diced diced apples, apples, butter, butter, currants currants and and chopped chopped mixture almonds, ftavoured flavoured with with cinnamon cinnamon and and aa !ittle little brandy. brandy. almonds, Moisten the the edges edges of of the the strudels, strudels, roll roll them, put into them, and and put into aa Moisten saut6 dish. buttered sauté dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and brown. brown. buttered Pour aa little little milk milk into into the poach, covered, the dish dish and and poach, covered, in in the the Pour The strudels oven. The strudels are are cooked cooked when when the the milk milk has has been been oven. absorbed. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with sugar sugar when when they they come come out out of of the the absorbed. and eat hot. hot. oven, and

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STUFF, TO. TO. FARCIR r,lncn -- To To fill fill with with farce farce or or other other mixture mixture STUFF, (pur6e, salpicon, salpicon, ragoût, ragofit, etc.) etc.) the the interior interior of of fish, fish, chicken, chicken, (purée, game, meat (slitting itit to meat (slitting pocket), hollowed to make make aa pocket), hollowed out out game, vegetables, etc.

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FRENCH WINES. WINES. VINS vrNS DE DE FRANCE FRANCE -- A A list list of great and of the FRENCH the great and small regional regional wines wines appears appears under under the the name name of small of each each province, also also the itsappellation the names names of of its appellation contrôlée contrilte wines. wines. province,

Pauillac Pauillac Saint-estdphe Saint-estèphe Saint-6milion Saint-émilion Pomerol Pomerol grands Tous les les grands Tous crus de de la la Côte C6te crus Nuits de Nuits de Corton Corton Pommard Pommard C6te-r6tie Côte-rôtie ChiteauneufChàteauneufdu-pape du-pape

PRTNCTPAL CÉPAGES CE?AGES(VARTETTES OF VINE) VrNE) IN PRINCIPAL (VARIETIES OF IN FRANCE. FRANCE.

BORDELAIS BORDELAIS Cdpages rouges. rouges. Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon, Cépages Sauvignon, Cabernet Cabernet franc, franc, Merlot, Malbec, Malbec, Petit Petit Verdot, (The first Verdot, (The Meriot, first three three constitute constitute the the principal vine vine stock stock of of the the wines wines of principal of Médoc, M6doc, Graves, Graves, SaintSaintEmilion and and Pomerol.) Pomerol.) Emilion Cdpages blancs. blancs. Sémillon, S6millon, Sauvignon. Sauvignon, Muscadelle. Cépages Muscadelle.

Pomerol Pomerol Canon-fronsac Canon-f ronsac Vins de de la la Côte C6te Vins de Nuits Nuits de Corton Corton Morgon Morgon Hermitage Hermitage C6te-16tie Côte-rôtie ChiteauneufChâteauneufdu-pape

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graves Medoc, graves Médoc, Saint-6milion Saiot-émilion Pomerol Pomerol Vins de de la la Côte C6te Vins de Beaune Beaune de Beaujolais Beaujolais Chinon Chinon Bourgueil Bourgueil

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on the the market. market. The (oncondition The only only wine wine allowed allowed (on condition that on that itit isis drunk inin moderation) moderation) isis that produced from that produced from vine vine stock stock drunk absolutely free free ofhybrids; of hybrids; the grapesofwhich the grapes of which have havenot absolutely not been been 'enriched' during during vinification vinification by by the addition of of beet the addition beet sugar, sugar, 'enriched' have been been fermented fermented naturally naturally without without the have the addition addition of of sulphur dioxide (or only dioxide (or only in in very very reduced quantities, and reduced quantities, sulphur and only only stage so this stage so as not to interfere with as not to interfere with the theaction actionof of the natural aatt this the natural yeasts). The The only only nutritionally nutritionally safe safe red red wines wines are are those yeasts). those that that have undergone undergone carbonic carbonic maceration maceration only. only. have

Micon Mâcon blanc Arbois Arbois blanc

Champagne Champagne Vins Vins mousseux mousseux de m6thode méthode champenoise Sauternes Sauternes Barsac Barsac Monbazillac Monbazillac Vouvray Vouvray moelleux moelleux Coteaux Coteaux du du Layon Layon Muscat Muscat d'Alsace d'Alsace GewurzGewurztraminer traminer

Vins de la Côte C6te Vins Nuits de Nuits Hermitage Hermitage ChAteauneufChàteauneufdu-pape

Pinot blanc

Mercurey Mercurey

Givry Beaujolais Chinon Chinon Bourgueil Bourgueil

Bordeaux clairet Bourgogne rosé ros6 Sancerre rosé ros6 Sancerre

BURGUNDY Cépages Cdpages rouges. rouges. Pinot noir, almost exclusively, red exclusively, for the red wines wines of the the Côte-d'Or C6te-d'Or and and Chalonnais; Chalonnais; Gamay noir, noir, with with added juice, for added white grape juice, white grape for the the wines wines of of Beaujolais Beaujolais and and MAconnais. Mâconnais. Cépages Ctpages blancs. Chardonnay Chardonnay for ail all the the appellation white wines; Pinot wines: Pinot blanc, blanc. Aligoté. Alieot6.

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A. Cépages A. and GewurztraGewurztraCepages nobles. nobles. Riesling, Riesling, Traminer and miner, Pinot gris gris or miner, Clevner, or Tokay Tokay d'Alsace, d'Alsace, Muscat Clevner, Pinot d'Alsace, Sylvaner. blend of (A blend nobles is is called d'Alsace, Sylvaner. (A of cépages cdpages nobles 'Edelzwicker'.) 'Edelzwicker' .) B. Cépages B. Goldriesling. courants. Knipperle, Chasselas, Goldriesling. Cdpages courants. blend of of cipages cépages courants courants is called'Zwicker'.) called 'Zwicker'.) (A blend CÉPAGES RoucES ROUGES -- Pinot noir noir or Burgunder. Pinot Meunier cEIAGES Meunier (clairet (clairet wines'Schillerwein'). wines 'Schillerwein').

Muscat Muscat de: de:

CÔTES DU RHÔNE COTES RHONE As in all ail southern southern vineyards there there is aa wide wide variety As variety ofvines of vines used. Here are the principal ones, ones, not not the used. the accessory ones. ones. (The (The proportion of ofthese limited by by law.) law.) these is limited APPELLATION GENERALE GÉNERALE coTEs CÔTES DU DU RH6NE RHÔNE - Cépages APPELLATTON - Ctpages Grenache, Syrah, Mourvddre, Mourvèdre, Picpoul, Terret noir, rouges. Grenache, Picardan, Cinsault; Cinsault; Cbpages Cépages blancs. blancs. Clairette, Clairette, Roussette Roussette Picardan, Roussane, Marsanne, Marsanne, Bourboulenc, Bourboulenc, Viognier. Viognier. or Roussane,

Rivesaltes, Rivesaltes, Frontignan, Frontignan, Lunel, Lunel, Beaumes-deBeaumes-deVenise, Venise, Samos Samos

Wine Wine suitable suitable for for accompanying accompanying soups soups and and egg egg dishes dishes are are not not included included here; here; orotnary ordinary carale carafe wrnes wines do do verv very well. weil.

992

WINE WINE MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN COAST COAST

large Like Like the the C6tes Côtes du du Rh6ne Rhône m6ridionales, méridionales, there there are are aa large the number number of of vines, vines, which which vary vary from from one one appellation appellation to to the

other. other. Cbpages Cépages rouges. rouges. Grenache, Grenache, Carignan, Carignan, Mourvddre, Mourvèdre, Ginsault, Ginsault, Terret, Terret, Picpoul Picpoul noir, noir, Cournoise, Cournoise, Aramon. Aramon. Cbpages Cépages blancs. blancs. Ugni, Ugni, Clairette, Clairette, Mauzac, Mauzac, Carignan Carignan blanc, blanc, Picpoul Picpoul blanc. blanc. natural for vine principal The NATuRAL NATURAL swnEr SWEET wINEs WINES - The principal vine for natural sweet sweet wines wines is is the the Grenache, Grenache, particularly particularly the the Grenache Grenache noir noir Also the (Banyuls, etc.). Rivesaltes, Maury, (Banyuls, Maury, Rivesaltes, etc.). Also the Maccabeo, Maccabeo, Malvoisie, Malvoisie, Muscat, Muscat, Carignan, Carignan, Blanquette, Blanquette, Alicante; Alicante; Muscat Muscat (Frontignan, etc.). etc.)' dor6 doré (golden) (golden) for for the the muscats muscats (Frontignan,

EASTERN EASTERN REGION REGION

(Jura, Château-Chalon), Chdteau-Chalon), Savagnin (Jura, Ctpages Cépages blancs. blancs. Savagnin

Clairetle

NORTH REGIoN REGION NoRrH

--

appellations Cépages rouges' rouges. Syrah (the appellations Cipages

blancs. Viognier, Ermitage, Cornas, Cornas, etc.). etc.). Ctpages Cépages blancs. Viognier, Ermitage,

(Cr6py' Savoy), Savoy), Fendant (Crépy, Roussette Roussette (Seyssel), (Seyssel), Chasselas Chasselas or or Fendant with Muscat). Muscat). de Die, Clairette Die, with Clairette (Clairette (Clairette de (Arbois, noir (Arbois, Pinot noir Trousseau, Pinot Poulsard, Trousseau, rouges. Poulsard, Cipages Cépages rouges. Jura). Jura). WEST SOUTH WEST SOUTH is (Garonne basin) basin) is the South-West South-West (Garonne vine stock stock of of the The basic basic vine The local of sorne some local addition of with the the addition of Bordelais Bordelais with as that that of the same same as the

Roussane, Marsanne. Marsanne. Roussane, Grenache, Cinsault, SOUTH REGIoN REGION - Ctpages Cépages rouges. rouges. Grenache, sourH for and some others for Mourvèdre, Carignan, Picpoul. and Carignan, Syrah, Picpoul, Mourvddre,

vines. vines. Malbec. Merlot, Malbec. rouges. Cabernets. Cabernets. Meriot, Cbpages rouges. Cépages Muscadelle, Sauvignon, MuscadeIlè, Semillon, Sauvignon, blancs. Sémillon, Ctpages blancs. Cépages (Jurangon). Manseng (Jurançon), Petit Manseng Gros etet Petit Mauzac, Ondenc, Ondenc, Gros Mauzac, (Tursan), Blanche. Folle Barroque Barroque (Tursan), Folle Blanche.

proportions authorized ofthese different vines vary from one proportions appellation appellation to the other.).

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE Muscadelle, Sauvignon, Muscadel1e, S6millon, Sauvignon, blancs. Sémillon, Ctpages blancs. Cépages (Jurangon)' Manseng (Jurançon), Petit Manseng Gros etet Petit Ondenc, Gros tvtauiac. Ondenc, Mauzac, 'Blancs de blancs' blancs' the for Chardonnay blancs. Ctpages Cépages blancs. Chardonnay for the 'Blancs de ( natural or effervescent)' (natural or effervescent).

Clairette, Ugni blanc, Clairette, local use. use. Cépages Grenache blanc, blancs. Grenache Ctpagis blancs. (The Picpoul. (The Marsanne, Picpoul. blanc, Bourboulenc, Bourboulenc, Roussane, Roussane, Marsanne, blanc,

LOIRE VALLEY LOIRE VALLEY (Sannoir (SanPinot noir Cépages (red and wines): Pinot ros€ wines): and rosé rouges. (red Cbpages rouges. (Touraine, Anjou), Anjou), cerre), 'Breton' (Touraine, or 'Breton' franc or Cabernet franc cerre), Cabernet Meunier Pinot Meunier Gamay, Groslot, Cot (Touraine, Anjou ros6s) Pinot Anjou rosés) Cot (Touraine, (Orléanais). (Orl6anais). Pouillywines, PouillyCépages Sauvignon (Sancerre, Cher wines, (Sancerre, Cher blancs :Sauvignon Cipages blancs: (Touraine, Fumé), Ch6nin (Touraine, (Pouilly-sur-Loire), Chénin Chasselas (Pouilly-sur-Loire), Fum6), Chasselas Blanche or Folle Folle Blanche Anjou), Gros-Plant or Melon, Gros-Plant or Melon, Muscadet or Anjou), Muscadet (Nantes (Nantes region). region).

BEVEnACES. See BEVERAGES. WINES -- See HOME-MADE WINES HOME-MADE

After frRANcens - - After vINS ÉTRANGERS WINES. VINS INTERNATIONAL WINES. INTERNATIONAL production inin vinicultural production biggest vinicultural has the the biggest France, Italy Italy has France, wine-growing from aawine-growing (around 35 hectolitres from 35 million million hectolitres Europe (around Europe position. Other Other thirdposition. Spain isis inin third hectares);Spain area of of 22 million million hectares); area

Loir wines

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993 993

WINE

WINE

nametotothe thewines winesproduced producedininitsitsvalley; valley;these thesehave havea a name pronouncedbouquet. bouquet.Three Threeofofthe thecommunes communesare areBadeBadepronounced Kreuznach, Münster, Miinster,Bôchelheim. BU'~'" culinary 156 156 gastronomic map map 155p gastronomie 156 broccoli \56 brocco\î 735 freezing 735 freezing fritters 395 395 friners 471-2 brochettes 471-2 brochettes 472 sweetbreads 472 sweetbreads 156 brocket 156 brocket

l0l5 tol5

chicken chicken 885 885 crab crab and and shellfish shellfish 281 281 herb herb 453 453 Longchamp Longchamp 565 565 mutton mullon 608,887 608,887 snail snail 850 850 turkey turkey pinion pinion 701 701 broutes broutes (broutons) (broutons) 156 156 broye broye 156 156 brunoise brunoise 156 156 vegetable, for soups V"";'"'Ll''\If'r.n spiny lobster, lobster, lobster orother other lobsteror shellfish shellfish 350 350 with with shrimps shrimps 350 350 trufles with wÎth truffies 350 350 S6vign6 350 350 shirred 338,842 338,842 with 351 with shrimps shrimps 351 snow snow 351,351p 351,351p ià lala soubise soubise 351 351 spun spun 418 418 Stanley 351 351

stuffed 464 stuffing stuffing dà la la moscovite moscovite 464 464

472 canapbs 472

350 with cdpes 350 liver with chicken liver 350 350 Clamart 350 Clamart 350 with crayfish crayfish 350 with 350 'l'6chelle' 350 'J'échelle' 350 I'espagnole 350 àdl'espagnole 350 àdlaforestidre la forestière 350 350 Georgette 350 orbacon bacon with hamor 350 350 Massenet350 Massenet 350 withmushrooms mushrooms 350 with 350 Nantua350 àdlalaNantua 350 normande 350 àdtalanormande panetidre350 350 panetière 350 Parmentier 350 Parmentier p6rigourdine àdlalapérigourdine 350 350 potatoes350 350 withpotatoes with princess350 350 princess

tarragon tarragon 351 351 dà la la tripe tripe 351 351 Verdier Verdier 351 35J Victoria Victoria 351 35! d à la la Villeroi Villeroi 351 351 yolk: yolk: stuffing 389 389 d à la la zingara 3511 eggs, plovers'or lapwings'464 357 reptiles' 357 eggs, reptiles' eggs, 357 turtles' 357 eggs, turtles' eggs, 357,358P egg-timer 357, egg-tÎmer 358p 357 Eglantine 357 Eglantine 76 banquets 76 Egypt: banquets Egypt: 76,357-8 cooking 76, coolàng 357-8 358 elderberry : gourilos 358 elderberry. cordial elderblossom: elderblossom: cordial t23 123 123 cordial 123 lime cordial and lime and 358-9 electricity 358-9 359 elephant 359 950 feet 950 elephant's feet 359 elixir 359 359 cola 359 cola 359 ofGarus ofGarus 359 359 Chartreuse 359 Grande Chanreuse Grande 359,596 elk elk 359,596 359 embonpoint 359 359 6mincer émincer 359 359 6minc6s 359 émincés bordelaise with beef: beef: with bordelaise 359 sauce359 sauce 359 chasseur 359 chasseur 359 I'italienne359 àdl'italienne 359 lyonnaise d la à la lyonnaise 359 359 mushrooms 359 withmushrooms with piquante sauce with with piquante sauce 359 359 sauce with with poivradesauce 359 359

t027 1027

with Robert sauce with Robert sauce 359 359 with tomato sauce with tomato sauce 359

359

or lamb 359 mutton mutton or lamb 359 pork 359 pork 359 359 poultry poultry 359 359 roebuck roebuck 359 359 veal veal 359 359 emulsion emulsion 359 en-cas 359-60 en-cas 359-60 360, 360P endive endive 360, 360p with bechamel sauce with béchamel sauce 360 360 braised au gras 360 braîsed au gras 360 360 buttered buttered 360 cream 360 with with cream 360 d la flamande 360 à la flamande 360 gourilos, see gourilos gourilos, see gourilos 360 augratin au gratin 360 360 aujus aujus 360 360 loaf loaf 360 au maigre 360 au maigre 360 pur6e 360 360 souffi6 360 soufflé 360 with Parmesan 360 with Pannesan 360 cream of 874 soup: soup: cream of 874 velout6 879 velouté 879 subrics 360 subrics 360 505 England: cookery 505 entoloma 360 360 entomophogous 360 entomophogous entr6es 361 361 entrées mixed 361 mixed 361 entremets 361 entremets 361 6pergne 361 épergne 361 6pigramme 361 épigramme 361 epilepsy 361 epilepsy 361 Epiphany 362,369 362,369 Equerry 932 932 Ermitage 362 362 362 ermite 362 ermite 362 erythrin 362 erythrin escalope 362 362 850P escargotiere 850p escarole 362 362 Escoffier, Auguste 362, Escoffier, Auguste 362, 362p 362p Esquire Tranchant 363 Esquire Tranchant 363 essai (essay) 363 essai (essay) 363 essence 363 essence 363 almond, bitter 363 almond, bitter 363 anchovy 363 363 chervil 363 chervil 363 coffee 363 coffee 363 fish 363 fish 363 game 363 game 363 garlic 363 garlîc 363 lemon 551 lemon 551 mocha 594 mocha 594 mushroom 363 mushroom 363

INDEX INDEX onion363 363 onion parsley363 363 parsley shallot363 363 shallot tarragon363 363 tarragon tomato363-4 3634 tomato truffie364 364 truffie estaminet364 364 estaminet estouffade364 364 estouffade (6tuv6)364 estoufte(étuvé) 364 estouffée 6tuver 364 364 étuver euphorism 364 364 euphorism ewe 364 364 ewe ewer 364 364 ewer exocoetus364 364 exocoetus extracts 364 364 extracts chicken 364 364 chicken game 364 364 game meat 364 364 meat

F Faby (Fabri), (Fabri), Pdre Père 393-4 393-4 fai'ence faïence 365,366p 365, 366p faisandage faisandage 365 365 falcon falcon 365 365 fallow-deer fallow~deer 365,367 365, 367 roast roast haunch haunch dà I'anglaise 367 367 fanchette fanchette (fanchonnette) (fanchonnette) 367 367 fanes fanes 367 367 fantaisie fantaisie 367 367 far far 367 367 farci farci 367 367 farinaceous farinaceous 367 367 fainada farinada 367 367 Faro Faro 367 367 Far FarPoitevin Poitevin 367 367 fas6ole faséole 367 367 fat fat 367 367 fats fats l1-12 11-12 fattening fattening 368 368 faubonne faubonnc 368 368 fauves fauves 368 368 favorite, dla 413 favorite,àla 413 Favre, Favre,Joseph 368 368 fawn fawn 368 368

fedelini368 368 fedelini Fendant368 368 Fendant fennel368, 368,368p fenne1 368p withbone-marrow bone-marrow 368 wÎth 368 braisedininmeat meatstock stock braÎsed 368 368 368 cream 368 inincream fondue385 385 fondue gratin368 augratÎn 368 au gravy368 368 iningravy grecque 368 368 àdla la grecque liqueur 556 556 liqueur roots464 464 roots grecque464 464 àdlalagrecque sauce 819 819 sauce Fennel-water 368 368 Fennel-water fenugreek 368 368 fenugreek f6ra 368-9, 368-9,368p féra 368p la meunière meunidre 369 369 àd \a ferchuse 369 369 ferchuse ferment 369 369 ferment fermentation 369 369 fermentation fermidre, àd,la 369.416 la 369,416 festive cookery 369-73 369-73 festivecookery feuillantine 373 373 feuillantine feuilleton 373 373 feuilleton veal: àd l'ancienne I'ancienne 373 veal: 373 in jelly, cold cold 373 373 injelly, p6rigourdine àd la périgourdine 373 373 feuillette 373 feuillette fiatole 373-4 3734 fiatole fieldfare 373 fieldfare field-poppy oil 374 374 field-poppy: oil figs I119, 19,374,374p 374, 374p compote compote 260 Corsican Corsican anchoyade anchoyade 374 dfied dried 374 374 fresh fresh 464 464 fritters fritters 374.396 374,396 leg wild pork leg of ofwild pork with with 374 374 marmalade marmalade 576 576 pork stew stew with with 374 374 tart tart 917 917 wine winc 124,374 J 24, 374 figuette 124,374 124,374 filbert, seehazelnut see hazelnut fillet fillet 374 374 financidre, OmmCllere dla à la 375,413 375,413 finger-bowl: finger-bowl: water waterfor for I 1 finte finte 375 375 firecrest 375 firedog 375

fish 375-6. See 5:eeolsocod a/sr> cod etc. etc.

aspic 56 56 bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse,Breton Breton 277 277 bourride bourride l4l 14l 1028

chaudrée chaudr6ededefouras fouras207 207 consommé: consomm6: à dl'amiral I'amiral 870 870 à dlalacancalaise cancalaise871 871 clarified clarified869 869 Commodore Commodore 871 871 Hudson Hudson871 871 simple869 869 cotriadc cotriade 277 277 coulibiac coulibiac277-8 277-8 croquettes474 474 ,",,,,-,Cl U,",,," "" 464 escabdche 464 essence essence 363 363 fillets fillets 374 374 forcemeat forcemeat 388 388 ring ring with with various various garnishes garnishes 134 134 freezing freezing 734 734 fritots frirots 478 478 fritters fritters 395,479 395.479 fumet fumet 401 401 garnishes 409 409 grilled àd I'anglaise 29 29 hash hash 450 450 jelly: stock jelly: 8 stock for for 5! 518 stock stock for, with with rcd red wine wine 518 518 loaves loaves 558-9 matelote 580 àd la bourguignonne 580 s80 à la mariniere marinière 580 580 d à la normande 580 580 d mayonnaise 580 mousse 376 mousseline forcemeat forcemcat mousseline 388 388 pdtes, small 481

pavf

676

pies 692,695

pirozhki

703

pochouse pochouse 708 708 de Verdun-sur-leVerdun-sur-lede Doubs 708 708 Doubs potage Bagration Bagration 880 880 745-6 pur6es 745-6 salpicon 801 801 salpicon sautéof of 831 831 saut6 shells 485 485 scallop shells 864 soufl6 864 soupwith withvermicelli vermicellidà soup marseillaise 882 882 lalamarseillaise soupaigo-saou aïgo-saou 881 881 soup stock 899 899 stock withred redwine wine 899 899 with turnovers:dàlalaCussy Cussy turnovers: 946 946 lyonnaise946 946 dàlalalyonnaise Nantua 946 946 dàlalaNantua ukha888 888 ukha vishiski969 969 vishiski

à dlalaWalewska Walewska973 973

Waterzootje976-7 976-7

nsh fishkettle kettle 376

fissurclle 376p fissurelle376, 376,376p fistulane fistulane 376 376 Fistulina Fistulina hepatica hepatica376, 376, 376p 376p flamande, la 377, 413, flamande,à itla 377,413, 413p 413p flamiche flamiche 377 377 flamingo flamingo377 377 flamique377 377 flamri377 377 flamusse flamusse 377 377 Flanders: Flanders: culinary culinary "1.n.,"'U1H"~ù specialities379 379 flangnarde 379 379 flans flans 377 377 77 apple Grimaldi Grimaldi 3377 banana àd la la crème crdme 75 75 àd la 77 la bordelaise bordelaise 3377 àd la la bourguignonne bourguignonne 377-8 377-8 Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin 378 378 carrot carrot àd la la flamande flamande 378 378 cases cases baked baked blind blind 916 916 cheese cheese 378 378 Juliette Juliette Récamier R6camier 378 378 cherry cherry 216 216 Danish 217 Danish 217 with rice rice meringue with 217 217 chicken liver liver Chavette Chavette chicken 378 378 with cheese cheese crayfish:: with 284 284 la Nantua Nantua 378 378 dà la la financidre financière 378 378 dà la ftamusse 377 377 flamusse flangnarde 379 379 flangnarde la florentine florentine 378 378 dà la latticed 549,549p 549,549p latticed teek, with with cheese cheese 378 378 leek, mirabelle plum plum 592 592 mirabelle 679,679p peach 679,679p pear, dàlalacrdme crème 682p 682p pear, cases 377, preparing cases 377p 377p raspberry cream 378 378 raspberrycream reÎne 378 378 riàlalareine rice /775 rtce /)

with apricots 775 with meringue 775

378 dla Sagan 378 378 seafood 378 shellfish 179 ~ 79 shellfish soledàlalanormande normande 379 379 sole tangerine918-19 918-19 tangerine flavour919 919 flavour

INDEX INDEX flavouring 379 379

pilaf 699 699

I,.f(' hpr,c,n'\ 379 379 Fletcherism

potted pottedwith withtruffies truffies 383 383 dàlalafagon façon p6rigourdine périgourdine 383 383 preserved preserved potted, pottcd, in in

fleuron fleuron 379 379

fleursdevin fleurs de vi n 379 379 floating floatingisland îsland 379 379 flognarde flognarde 379 379 florentine, florentine, ila à la 379 379 flounder flounder 379,379p 379, 379p flour flour 380,380p 380, 380p

flouring 380 380 floutes floutes 380 flowers: flowers: three three flowers flowers

cordial cordial 124 124 fluorine fluorine 380 380 fl0te flûte 380 380 flute, flute, to to 380 380 fogosch 380 380 foie gras gras 380-l 380-\ aspic 56 56 en en Bellevue Bellevue 381 381 en en brioche 381 en casserole 381

enchausson en chausson 381 en cocotte 381 croquettes 381 d la P6rigueux 474 d à la reine reine 474 cutlets 381 'eggs'381 'eggs' 38\ Cambac6rds escalopes: esca 10 pes: Cam ba cérès 381 381 chaud-froid 381 en chaud-froid with grapes and with truffies 381-2 381-2 truffies Montrouge 382 382 Montrouge Richelieu 382 382 Richelieu la romaÎne romaine 382 382 àd la 382 with truilles truffies 382 with la financière financidre 382 382 àd la I'ancienne fritters: il.i l'ancienne fritters: 395 395 395 with truille truffie 395 with 381 kromeskies 381 kromeskies loaf 382, 382,559 loaf 559

jellied 38~559.559p 382,559,559p jcll~d 382 medallions 382 medallions mousse 382, 382,597 mousse 597 382 mousselines 382 mousselines la omelette: àd la omelette: 352 bigourdane 352 bigourdane 353 Louis Forest Forest 353 Louis Rossini 354 354 Rossini pancakesàdlala 1-1'''''-