2011 The Natural Makeup Manual
s1000 OISE 1/1/2020
The Aroma Shoppe www.janbenham.co.uk
[email protected]
Preface to the First edition This first edition.... Unveiled, the art of making your own makeup, Just as my first two books The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making; with Essential Oils and their Friends, and The Baby Boomers Beauty Bible, arose in response to the many requests by therapists in the healing profession, this book is a natural expansion of the cream making books. My mission: To bring the knowledge of how to make all natural and holistic makeup to you. The changing climate of the beauty field, and heightened awareness of the types of harmful substances that may appear in makeup, especially in lipsticks, has meant that there is more desire for information regarding natural products. Therefore, in this book, I have provided information for therapists and interested home producers, with explanation on ingredients used and instructions on how to make makeup. Furthermore, you will also realize huge monetary savings by not purchasing expensive department store brands. There is no way you can go wrong. The average woman in the UK spends £250 a year buying makeup, 50% of those women spend in the £1000‟s. This makes the business of supplying customers with natural alternatives a sure success. Natural makeup is not tested on animals; therefore, by using natural makeup you do not support the testing on animals that many pharmaceutical companies do.
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You will read many conflicting write-ups about what should and should not be in your makeup and you may find it very confusing, it is a jungle out there. Learn about the ingredients; essential oils, carrier oils, nut butters, colourants, oxides and micas and be true to what feels best for you.
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PART ONE
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The Mineral Makeup Manual
History and Fun Trivia Since our history from Atlantis are still a little fizzy, ancient Babylon figures as the beginning of our story about makeup. The origin of our use of cosmetics can be traced back 5,000 years to ancient Babylon in which it seems that they frequently painted their faces with lead, used henna to colour their nails, and for lipstick used semi-precious stones that were crushed and smeared on their lips. The Romans and ancient Egyptians used cosmetics that contained mercury and often lead. Cleopatra had lipstick made from ground up cochineal beetles added to ant‟s eggs as a base. Also used by the Egyptians was a purple-red colour that was squeezed from Iodine used to redden lips, this eventually became known as “the kiss of death”. When King Tut‟s tomb was opened in 1922, cosmetics were found inside that were still fragrant and perfectly usable. During the era of Queen Elizabeth 1st, it was popular to paint the face white and the lips red. When acting in Shakespeare‟s plays no women were allowed to work as actors. Female roles were taken by young lads who wore women‟s clothes and elaborate makeup. The lead content in the white makeup led to many early deaths by boy actors. With the rise of Christianity, the heavy use of makeup gradually diminished in many cultures. Eventually makeup became seen as the art of the devil.
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Jan Benham In fact, in 1770, the English parliament passed a law stating that any woman who seduced a man into marriage by wearing makeup could be tried as witch! In fact the use of makeup was frowned upon at many points in western history. In the 19th century prostitutes were the main users of makeup and Queen Victoria publically declared makeup improper, vulgar and acceptable only for use by actresses. During the 1920‟s, the flapper style came into fashion, which embraced dark eyes, red lipstick, red nail varnish and the suntan by Coco Channel. Makeup became very popular during world war 11 with the popularity of its use in the movie industry. And by the middle of the 20th century, cosmetics were wildly used by women in nearly all industrial societies around the world. In the 1950‟s colour films made an enormous impact on cosmetics. The huge cinema screens illuminated the unblemished appearance of stars and caused the makeup artist Max Factor to invent the „pan cake‟, which covered any blemishes and evened out skin tone. We still have to watch out for the detractors of makeup though. For example: Adolf Hitler told women “that face painting was for clowns and not for women of the master race”. In Islamic law, there is no prohibition on wearing cosmetics, but they are not to disguise the real looks in order to mislead or cause uncontrolled desire.
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The Mineral Makeup Manual More trivia:
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In 1884, the first modern lipstick was introduced by perfumers in Paris. It was wrapped in silk paper and made with deer tallow, castor oil and beeswax.
In 1904, a perfumed lip salve would have cost you 25 cents.
By 1908, it was okay for women to apply lipstick at the table during lunch at a restaurant. It was not okay to apply lipstick at dinner.
Did you know that according to a 1996 survey by Shiseido cosmetics; 87% of American women admit to having left traces of lipstick in unwanted places.
The average woman uses 4 – 9 lb. of lipsticks in a lifetime.
Guano (bat droppings) is used in some cosmetics such as mascara.
Modern mascara was created in 1913 by T.L.Williams. He mixed coal dust with petroleum jelly for his sister Mabel, and later grew the invention of Maybelline.
Jan Benham
PART TWO
Carmine is used to colour Campari
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Making Natural Mineral Makeup In this manual, we are going to show you how to make natural makeup: Lipstick, natural lip stains, lip gloss, eye and lip pencils, Stimulash eye liner, mascara, liquid foundation and concealers. I teach the makeup making course on two separate days. One of the days is about the making of pure mineral makeup such as foundation, blushers and eye shadows, the other day is on how to make lipsticks and cosmetic pencils etc. involving the use of oils, waxes, butters and essential oils. Before we start creating let‟s take a look at the ingredients that we will be using. The ingredients used in the formulation of natural makeup includes: Base additives, colourants, waxes, carrier oils, butters, essential oils and various botanicals.
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Ingredients Powders used in Natural Makeup Titanium dioxide Titanium dioxide is naturally occurring from the mineral ilmenite. It is a very bright and very refractive (only surpassed by diamonds) powder. It is used to lighten colour, so by adding titanium dioxide to carmine, you can change a red lipstick to a pink. It is soothing to the skin as well as being a great sun block. Has a high adhesion and coverage in mineral makeup and lipsticks. Zinc oxide Zinc oxide naturally produced from zinc ore and has a slightly sticky feel. Like titanium, zinc protects the skin against sunburn. In addition zinc has anti-fungal properties, calms irritated skin and helps with skin conditions such as acne, roscaea and redness. Has a high adhesion and coverage in mineral makeup and lipsticks.
Butters, Vegetable Oils and Waxes Butters: Both shea butter and cocoa butters are useful in lipsticks and add some protection against the sun as well as adding healing properties. Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) Shea butter is derived from the pits of the fruit of the African butter tree which also grows in central Africa. Shea butter provides some skin protection against UV radiation, is antinflammatory and sooths and softens dry, chapped skin. 7
The Mineral Makeup Manual Cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) Cocoa butter is obtained from roasted cocoa beans and has a distinct odour. It is soothing to the skin and is good for wrinkles and furrows. Oils: Any vegetable oil can be used in lipsticks; the ones I like to use are castor and jojoba oils as they have a long shelf life. Other oils, such as sesame, sweet almond and hemp seed oil, can replace either castor oil or jojoba in the recipes, but they do go rancid eventually. The shelf life of these oils can be extended with the addition of vitamin E. For further reading of carrier oils, please refer to the book, “The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making”. Castor oil (Ricinus communis) Castor oil is the oil most often used in lipsticks and lip glosses. It gives a nice shine, helps to disperse the pigments and has an acceptable odour, taste, colour whilst being inexpensive. Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) Jojoba oil is composed of different liquid wax esters similar to human sebaceous glands. Jojoba oil is derived from jojoba beans. However, it is technically not an oil, but a liquid wax, which replaced sperm whale oil in the cosmetics industry when the whale became an endangered species. As an added bonus, it is an environmental aid, as planting it saves arid land from becoming desert. The chemical structure not only resembles sebum, but the latter can dissolve in it, which makes it useful in the case of acne. The fact that it is also indicated for dry skin, psoriasis and eczema shows it to be balancing, useful for all skin types. One important quality of jojoba oil is that it becomes firm at temperatures below 50oF.
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Jan Benham Creams containing jojoba oil become very firm in the refrigerator. High quality jojoba oil is without colour or odour, making it ideal for cosmetics. Another great quality is that it does not become rancid. Waxes and Gums Beeswax Beeswax is a glandular excretion product from bees. Beeswax has one of the lowest melting points of natural waxes 61 - 68 oC, and is less hard than the other waxes which make the lipstick smooth and pleasant to apply. We use the beeswax in lipsticks, eye and lip pencils and mascara. Candelilla wax (Euphorbia antisyphilitica) Candelilla wax is a natural plant wax extracted from the leaves of the candelilla plant, with a melting point 69 - 73 oC, candelilla wax gives a nice gloss to lipsticks. Carnauba wax (Copernicia cerifera) Carnauba wax is a natural plant wax exuded by the leaves of a palm tree (see Latin name) and is the hardest natural wax available, providing hardness and rigidity to lipsticks, lip and eye pencils. Carnauba wax has a melting point of 80 - 85 oC. Ceteareth - 20 A non-ionic polyoxyethylene ether of saturated fatty alcohols (cetyl stearyl alcohol). It is soluble in water and alcohol to form a colloid solution. It is compatible with fats, oils and active ingredients and is used for all kinds of emulsion-based cosmetic products like creams, lotions hair conditioners and sunscreen lotions.
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The Mineral Makeup Manual Gum Arabic Gum Arabic is a natural dried exudate from the stems and branches of the Acacia tree in Africa. Gum Arabic has thickening, adhesive and film forming properties, and is used for the making of mascara, brow and lash gels. Stearic acid Stearic acid is a fatty acid occurring naturally in vegetable fats. Soluble in oils and alcohols, it has good emulsifying and thickening properties (stabilizes emulsions). Stearic acid is widely used in personal care products including soaps, creams, lotions, and creams. Xanthan Gum A gum produced by a pure culture fermentation of a carbohydrate with xanthomonas campestris, this is widely used as a thickener in the cosmetic and food industries. There are many grades of xanthan gum. The one I use is fine meshed, which provides thickness without causing a lumpy uneven texture.
Essential oils The following essential oils can be safely used in liquid foundations, lip sticks, Lip glosses and lip balms. For more information on essential oils used in skin care; please refer to “The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making”. Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia) The soothing, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties of lavender make it valuable for many skin conditions, and its well-loved aroma lends itself to blending in creams and lotions. Lavender will also stimulate the growth of healthy new cells making it effective for cracked skin, eczema, boils,
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Jan Benham wounds and burns. It is helpful for acne as it inhibits the bacteria which causes the skin infection while soothing the skin, helping to balance the over secretion of sebum. Lime (Citrus aurantifolia) Lime is obtained by the cold expression of the peel and is a refreshing tonic for the skin. It helps to stimulate the lymphatic system helping conditions such as obesity, cellulitis and water retention. Mandarin (Citrus reticulata) Mandarin improves the circulation of the blood and lymph particularly below the skin which keeps the skin looking young and vibrant. Promotes the growth of new cells thereby the appearance of stretch marks and scars are diminished. Because of its gentle and antispasmodic effects, it is widely used in pregnancy and baby care Myrrh (Commiphora myrrha) Myrrh is extracted from a desert tree that grows in the Middle East. Its thick reddish-brown oil is obtained through extraction and distillation of its resin. The three wise men knew a thing or two about myrrh as it was widely used by the Egyptians in embalming. Myrrh oil is rejuvenating, fungicidal, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, cooling and astringent. Orange sweet (Citrus aurantium) Orange is obtained by the cold expression of the peel of the fruit and is effective for dull and oily skins as well as for general skin care. It helps to stimulate the lymphatic system which helps conditions such as obesity, cellulite, and water retention.
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The Mineral Makeup Manual Peppermint (Mentha piperita) Lipstick as a study aid! Why not? Imagine wearing a lipstick that not only makes you look good but improves your concentration as well. Peppermint relieves anxiety and depression, increases mental agility, helps with mental fatigue, removes bad breath, relieves headaches, nausea, sinus congestion and so much more. Rose (Rosa damascena and Rosa Centifolia) Here we have one of the most valuable commodities on the perfume and essential oil market. Rose oil is extracted by varying methods, depending on the country of origin. The finest rose oil and the most costly is from Bulgaria known as Bulgaria Rose Otto, extracted from the Damask rose. Rose oil is a highly effective ingredient in natural skin care products. It is anti-inflammatory, astringent, toning and rejuvenating, helping most skin problems including: eczema, dry, sensitive and mature skin. Spearmint (Mentha Spicata) Gentler than peppermint, spearmint has similar properties. Good for the brain and helps with concentration, relieves stress, helps with headache and migraines, sinus congestion and dental care. Because of its gentle nature, spearmint can be safely used in children‟s lip balms.
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Botanicals Marine algae extract and gel Red algae extracts (Hypernea musciformis, Gellididela acerosa, Sargassum filendula and sorbitol) The seaweed extract and gels that I use dries quickly on the skin and has lasting power. Great to use as a base ingredient for making healthy lip stains and eye liners. Seaweed is an anti-oxidant and is full of easy to absorb proteins, vitamins, minerals and lipids. Repairing and protecting the skin and hair, it reduces oiliness and sebum over-production and strengthens against damage caused by free radicals.
Colour Pigments Basically three different types of colourants are used in the making of natural makeup. These include inorganic mineral pigments, micas, and carmine. Inorganic mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides, (yellow, red, brown and black), ultramarines and micas. In the making of lipstick, lip gloss and lip stains, the use of oxides and micas can make many different shades of lip colours. For true reds and pinks the only colourant that I have found so far that doesn‟t involve the use of *FD&C and D&C colourants is carmine. *These artificial colours are made from petroleum and coal tar, and are believed to be cancer causing agents. They penetrate the skin, can cause allergies and are irritants to the skin and eyes. They are found on labels as FD&C, or D&C and are followed by a colour and a number.
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The Mineral Makeup Manual Oxides Oxides are non-toxic, naturally occurring from irons such as hematite. In nature they are often combined with harmful metals such as lead, and mercury, so they have to be processed and refined before they can be used in cosmetics. They are used in practically in all mineral makeup. The colours come in many different shades with the most common ones being; yellow, red, brown, black, ultra marine blue and chromium green oxide. Mica powder Micas are non-toxic occurring naturally from the minerals muscovite and silicate. Mica if smaller than 20 microns, gives a satiny appearance while large micas provide a sparkly effect. Micas are then coated with various oxides, carmine and titanium dioxide to give a full range of colours. Micas are used as a second colour to achieve different shades and to add shimmer. Carmine Carmine is derived from the cochineal beetle. This colourant was used by the ancient Aztecs and it is said that Cleopatra‟s lipstick was made from carmine. Carmine is considered safe and as a natural red colour is used in alcoholic beverages and food.
Carmine
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Working with colours Making makeup is all about working with colours. To get your perfect shade you will need to be able to work with the colours to re-create your favourite lipstick, eye shadow and foundation etc. Don’t worry in this book; there are tons of recipes to get you started. Once you are confident in working with the pigments, then you can start creating your own shades. So how does colour work? Colour is a component of light. Light travels in different waves, speed and length. If a light beam reaches our eye, we experience the sensation of colour. To work with colour we need to work with a colour wheel.
Here is an example of a colour wheel
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The Mineral Makeup Manual To get a full spectrum of colours we start with the primary colours of yellow, blue and red. From these colours we get the secondary colours of orange, green and purple. Red and yellow create orange Yellow and blue create green Red and blue create purple If you mix equal amounts of all three of the primary colours, you get brown. Titanium dioxide (white) lightens the shade, if you mix equal amounts of carmine (red) and titanium dioxide, you will get a pink. White and black can be used in different measurements for creating a variety of shades. When I was in art school, the teacher had us make a colour formulation starting with red, yellow and blue, then making the secondary colours, going on to mixing red and purple, green and red, yellow and purple etc. We were allowed to use only the primary colours of red, yellow and blue. We then added white or black to change the shade. I like to do the same thing when making makeup and have had students create many different colours and shades for eye shadows and lipsticks using the same formula.
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PART THREE
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Tools of the trade To begin, you will need the following equipment. Equipment needed for making lipstick, lip gloss, pencils and mascaras:
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Coffee grinder for grinding up micas and oxides etc. I usually have at least three grinders: One for red/orange/pink coloured pigments, one for blue/green/black coloured pigments and one for the white powders. An electronic scale that measures both ounces and milligrams. Measuring spoons plus 0.15cc mini scoops. Plastic or surgical gloves Mask for during and after grinding. You can take it off again once the particles have settled. A double boiler (A heat resistant glass beaker that fits into a saucepan). Popsicle sticks Packaging product such as empty lip balm and mascara tubes and pencils etc. (If you wish to make professional shop style lipsticks, then you will need a lipstick mould and empty lipstick tubes).
Jan Benham
Setting up your work place
Good ventilation is a must, especially when using the grinder. Paper cover on your work surface makes for an easier clean up. Practice good hygiene; wipe the surfaces and tools down with alcohol. I use vodka. Wear an apron or some clothes designated for making makeup.
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PART FOUR
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Lipsticks Experimental lipsticks Suggestion: Make small amounts of lipstick at the beginning until you get your ideal colour. The following recipe makes 2 to 3 lipsticks. Ingredients: 1 teaspoon Castor oil 1 teaspoon Jojoba oil ½ teaspoon. Beeswax ½ teaspoon Candelilla wax ½ teaspoon Shea butter Method: Pour everything into a glass container, heat until the wax and oil has melted. Do not over heat. Stir with a disposable plastic spatula or popsicle stick. Add your pre blended (grinded in a coffee blender) colour concentrate (begin with ¼ teaspoon you will want to work quickly stirring this in until very well dispersed). Check the colour by rubbing a bit on the back of your hand, if you need more add in a very small amount at a time. Fill your lip balm tube, let dry completely for at least 30 minutes. If the top of your lip balm shrinks, simply reheat the left over and add a couple of drops to the top. I make my lipstick base in advance and just take the amounts needed for each batch.
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The Mineral Makeup Manual The following batch will make x
Lipstick Recipe Base Part one
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Ingredients: 15gms Beeswax 30gms Candelilla wax 25gms Shea butter 120gms Castor oil 120gms Jojoba oil 2 capsules Vitamin E 10 – 15 drops Essential oil (optional)
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Method: Sterilize all utensils, product containers, and workshop surfaces. Wipe utensils down with alcohol. Melt the waxes, butters and vegetable oils in a double boiler. While the waxes are melting, grind the pigments well in either a mortal and pestle or a coffee grinder. When the wax is almost melted, add the vitamin E. When the waxes are completely melted, remove from the heat and remove the beaker from the saucepan. Add pigments see part two. Blend in essential oils if desired.
Part two
Grind the pigments, micas and oxides together, stirring in between with a popsicle stick. Add the coloured pigments to the melted waxes and stir well with a disposable spatula. Immediately pour the mixture into the empty lip balm tubes or lipstick moulds. Place in the refrigerator. Remove ½ hour later and, if using a professional lipstick mould place in the lipstick tube.
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Lipstick Recipe No 1 Bella rosa Ingredients: To 55gms of the lipstick base, Add the following pigments: 1 teaspoon Carmine 1 teaspoon Titanium dioxide ½ teaspoon Pearl white mica
Method: Follow the instructions on page 23.
The Bella rosa lipstick in a professional mould and in the lipstick tube
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Lipstick Recipe No 2 Spice Ingredients: To 55gms of the lipstick base, Add the following pigments: 2 teaspoons Sienna mica ¼ teaspoon Red oxide ¼ teaspoon Zinc oxide
Method: Follow the instructions on page 23.
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Lipstick Recipe No 3 Coco La Crème Ingredients: To 55gms of the lipstick base, Add the following pigments: 2 teaspoons Aruben Coral mica ¼ teaspoon Red oxide ¼ teaspoon Zinc oxide Method: Follow the instructions on page 23.
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Lipstick Recipe No 4 Baby Pink Ingredients: To 55gms of the lipstick base, Add the following pigments: 1 teaspoon Carmine 1 ½ teaspoon Titanium dioxide
Method: Follow the instructions on page 23.
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Lipstick Recipe No 5 Ruby Ingredients: To 55gms of the lipstick base, Add the following pigments: 1 teaspoon Carmine ½ teaspoon Zinc oxide
Method: Follow the instructions on page 23.
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Lipstick Recipe No 6 Chocolate Kisses Ingredients: To 55gms of the lipstick base, Add the following pigments: One piece of melted dark chocolate 2 teaspoons Aruben Coral mica ¼ teaspoon Titanium dioxide ¼ teaspoon Zinc oxide Method: Follow the instructions on page 23.
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Lip gloss Lip gloss Recipe No 1 Ingredients: 2.5gms Beeswax 2.5gms Candelilla wax 5gms Shea butter 70gms Castor oil 20gms Fractionated coconut oil 10gms Sesame oil 2 capsules Vitamin E Part two 1 teaspoon Carrot root oil. ¼ teaspoon Orange oxide mix (equal amounts of red and yellow oxide ground together) ¼ teaspoon Fine gold mica 20 drops Sweet orange or mandarin essential oil Method: Pour everything into a glass container, heat until the wax is melted. Do not overheat. Stir with disposable spatulas, popsicle sticks work well. Add part two to the melted waxes and oils and mix well. Fill empty lip gloss tubes with a syringe.
Recipe No 2 To part one when the waxes and oils have melted, add 1 teaspoon of hot pink mica, ¼ teaspoon Ultra shimmer mica and 20 drops of essential oil of choice e.g. spearmint or lime.
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Colourfast lip stain This is a healthy alternative to the commercial long lasting lip stains that are on the market. Ingredients: Seaweed extract Pigment blends Method: To 1 teaspoon of seaweed extract, add ½ teaspoon of pigment blend/s, mix well and syringe into a lip gloss vial/tube.
Suggested pigment blends For a red stain; extract add ¼ teaspoon carmine to 1 teaspoon seaweed extract. For a pink stain; add ¼ teaspoon carmine and ¼ teaspoon titanium dioxide ground well together, to 1 teaspoon seaweed extract. For any other colours: Add ½ teaspoon of any of the lipstick pigment blends to 1 teaspoon of the seaweed extract. Hint: Once I have my lipstick colours for the season; I make larger batches of pigment blends and use as needed. To use: Apply in one go on the lower lip from one side to the other side without stopping and do the same with the upper lip. Let it dry for a few seconds keeping lips open, apply again. Once dry you can then apply lip gloss or lipstick over the colour fast stain. 31
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PART FIVE
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Cosmetic Pencils Cosmetic pencil pencils are used for lips, eyebrows and eyeliners. Lip liners should have high pigment coverage to accent the line of the lip, and should be firm enough not to run into the lines around the lip. Eye brow liners are used to create the illusion of fuller brows or to cover areas that have no hair. Brow liners should be harder than lip or eyeliners. Eyeliners should glide without tugging or pulling the skin on the eyelid. Cosmetic liners consist mainly of waxes, oils and pigments. Good pigment coverage is necessary so the wax/pigment level is high and the oil level is low, except for eye brow liners which usually contain less pigment so as to tint rather than colour. The amount of waxes in pencils is in the range of 20-40%. Stearic acid is added along with waxes to provide a firmer structure. The amount of oils used is often as much as 25% of the formula because pigments absorb oils and are used at high concentrations. The pigments used are iron oxides, carmine and micas.
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Lip liner pencil Recipe Ingredients: 1 teaspoon Jojoba oil 1 teaspoon Castor oil ½ teaspoon Beeswax ½ teaspoon Stearic acid ½ teaspoon Carnauba wax Method: Pour everything into a glass container, place in a hot water bath and heat until the wax is melted. Do not over heat, stir with a disposable plastic spatula or popsicle stick. Add your pre grounded colour concentrate to the above melted waxes, see following recipes: Coco La Crème: 1 teaspoon red oxide, 1 teaspoon zinc oxide and ½ teaspoon aruben coral mica. Blazing gun: 1 teaspoon orange oxide, and ½ teaspoon umber mica. Pink flamengo: 1 teaspoon carmine, ½ teaspoon titanium dioxide and ½ teaspoon pearl white mica. To fill your lip pencil, if you don‟t have a pencil mould! Your pencil comes in three parts: the pencil, a metal end piece and the plastic cover. Place the metal end piece on the pencil, and aspirate the hot liquid with a syringe into the other end of the pencil. It is important to have a syringe tip that fits into the pencil. Place the lip liner in the refrigerator for at least ½ hour. Afterwards, it will be ready for sharpening. 34
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Eye liner pencil Recipe Ingredients: 1 teaspoon Jojoba oil 1 teaspoon Castor oil ½ teaspoon Beeswax ½ teaspoon Stearic acid ¾ teaspoon Carnauba wax Method: Pour everything into a glass container, place in a hot water bath and heat until the wax is melted. Do not over heat, stir with a disposable plastic spatula or popsicle stick Add your pre-grounded colour concentrate to the above melted waxes, see following recipes: White pencil: 1 teaspoon titanium dioxide and ½ teaspoon pearl white mica. Cinnamon girl: 1 teaspoon brown oxide and ½ teaspoon fine gold mica. Bedroom eyes: 1 teaspoon black oxide and 1 teaspoon titanium dioxide. Irish eyes: 1 teaspoon green oxide and ½ teaspoon fine gold mica. To fill your lip pencil, if you don‟t have a pencil mould! Your pencil comes in three parts: the pencil, a metal end piece and the plastic cover. Place the metal end piece on the pencil, and aspirate the hot liquid with a syringe into the other end of the pencil. It is important to have a syringe tip that fits into the pencil. Place the lip liner in the refrigerator for at least ½ hour. Afterwards, it will be ready for sharpening.
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Filling the pencil and taking it out of the mould.
Irish eyes eye pencil
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PART SIX
Concealer
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More Recipes
Cover sticks Cover stick No 1 Part one: 130gms Jojoba 17gms Beeswax 10gms Carnauba wax
Part two 130gms Foundation pigment blend from the Mineral Makeup Manual 5 drops Lavender essential oil 10 drops Tea tree essential oil Melt the waxes and oils in a heat resistant glass jar and when melted add the pigment and essential oils. Pour into a lipstick mould, jar or cosmetic pot. Cover stick No 2 Melt 40gms of the lipstick base, when melted add 20gms of the foundation pigment blend. Pour into a lipstick mould, jar or cosmetic pot.
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Liquid Foundation Place 7 teaspoons of the white base powder number 3 from the Mineral makeup manual and add ¾ - 1 teaspoon of your choice of pigment concentrate. Grind, stir and grind again. To make the foundation liquid, add ½ teaspoon of the above powder blend, (I would suggest either sunkissed or terra cotta) to 20ml of the basic white lotion, the recipe is available in “the creamy craft of cosmetic making book”. If you want to make foundation that works for all skin colours from Caucasian to Asian to African, the above foundation works along with the following two: Dark brown, add 1 teaspoon of brown or dark brown oxide to 20ml of the basic white lotion. White, add 1 teaspoon of titanium dioxide to 20ml of the basic white lotion. When mixing and matching skin tones, the above three foundations can be blended to match any skin tone. This is especially helpful when dealing with skins that have irregular skin pigmentation.
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Eyeliner Ingredients: Seaweed extract Pigment blends Method: To 1 teaspoon of seaweed extract add up to ½ teaspoon of pigment blend/s, mix well and put into an eyeliner container. Some eyeliner suggestions: Cleopatra eyes: Mix ½ teaspoon black oxide in 1 teaspoon seaweed extract. Cinnamon girl: Mix ½ teaspoon brown oxide in 1 teaspoon seaweed extract. Bedroom eyes: ¼ teaspoon black oxide and ¼ teaspoon titanium dioxide ground well together, to 1 teaspoon seaweed extract.
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Mascara Mascara consists of a blend of waxes, pigments, texturizers, emulsifiers and solvents. Part one 124gms Distilled water ½ teaspoon Xanthan gum 1 teaspoon Glycerin ½ teaspoon Gum arabic 1 big drop Provitamin B5 1 big drop Grapefruit seed extract Part two 2 teaspoons Ceteareth 20 ½ teaspoon Stearic acid ½ teaspoon Candelilla wax 1 teaspoon Carnauba wax 2 teaspoons Beeswax Part three 4 teaspoons Black oxide. 1 or more teaspoon Mica of choice. Melt part one in one heat resistant glass beaker and part two in another glass beaker. When both are fully melted add part one to part two and stir well. Add part three to the above and fill the mascara containers using a syringe.
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The Mineral Makeup Manual Stimulash eye liner Ingredients: 1 teaspoon Seaweed extract 1 teaspoon Oxide/blend of choice Method Simply mix the colour pigments into the seaweed extract. Package in a pot or if possible, an empty eyeliner tube using a syringe.
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Your notes and recipes
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Your notes and recipes
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Your notes and recipes
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The Mineral Makeup Manual If you enjoyed this manual, check books by the author. The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making with essential oils and their friends, 2011 as well as being another cream making book, studies the use of essential oils and carrier oils in skin, body and hair care products. Also included is treatments for body care especially cellulite and fat reduction, along with a diet and plan of action. Care of the skin is covered including treatments for stretch marks, varicose veins and aches and pains. The Baby Boomers Beauty Bible, 2011 contains tips on how to keep your skin looking healthy and youthful with easy user-friendly recipes for various anti-ageing treatments and skin problems. Presented with straightforward advice for body care that includes suggestions to soothe the soul and stimulate the mind. Included in this book are recipes for skin care, natural deodorants, hair shampoos and conditioners. Coming soon: The Mineral Makeup Maunal, 2012
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We offer Holistic Health Practitioner, Aromatherapy and Aroma Cosmetology courses. We also carry supplies for making your own line of cosmetics and custom make for companies around the world. Organic Skin, Hair, Body Care Products Makeup – natural lipsticks and mineral makeup Natural cold pressed Soap
Canada The Aroma shoppe Ltd., Toronto, Ontario E-mail:
[email protected] www.aromashoppe.com
Great Britain The Aroma Shoppe Tel: 01623 797100 E-mail:
[email protected] www.janbenham.co.uk Members of the International Federation of Professional Aromatherapists, UK, The International Federation of Holistic Therapists, UK, and the Canadian Examining Board of Health Care Practitioners, Canada.
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The Mineral Makeup Manual
About the Author Jan Benham is the President of the Institute of Aromatherapy and Aroma Shoppe. She has been a holistic therapist, practicing and teaching for over twenty years. Jan taught Aromatherapy for Shirley Price in the early 80‟s, one of the pioneers and founders of aromatherapy in the UK. Jan is a fellow member of the Society of Health and Beauty Therapists UK, member of the International Federation of Holistic Therapists UK, member of the International Federation of Professional Aromatherapists, UK, a Registered Aromatherapy Health Practitioner with the Canadian Examining Board of Health Care Practitioners and past President of the Canadian Federation of Aromatherapists. Jan owns schools in Canada and the UK, and offers various workshops including: cosmetic making, aromatherapy, and Aroma Cosmetology - Holistic Skin Care. Her Certified Natural Health Practitioner Courses are known all over the world. Jan is also a tutor at the Shirley Price College in the UK and New Directions Aromatics. Jan is the author of books about all-natural and holistic cosmetics: The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making, 2011, The Baby Boomers Beauty Bible, 2011), The Little Book of Lipsticks, 2010 and is currently working on her fourth book: The Mineral Makeup Manual. As well as being an author and a consultant, Jan regularly gives press, TV and radio interviews, and contributes to journals and magazines.
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