The Manufacture of Boots and Shoes 1000747941
Short Description
manufacture...
Description
THE
MANUFACTURE
OF
AND
SHOES
BOOTS
CHAS.
CASE
Manufacturers
of .
*
3*
FINEST
3"
EMC1-ISM
CHROME
GLACE
KIDS.
Also
;. .
BOX
SON,
"
"
CALF,
*
A^5
WILLOW
CALF, GLACE
CALF.
MANUFACTURE
THE
OF
SHOES
AND
BOOTS A
BEING
TREATISE
MODERN OF
ALL
OF
PROCESSES
THE
AND
MAKING
MANUFACTURING
FOOTGEAR
BY
Y.
F. PRINCIPAL
OF
THE
CITY
WITH
AND
OVER
GUILDS
TWO
GOLDING OF
INSTITUTE'S
LONDON
LEATHER
TRADES
ILLUSTRATIONS
HUNDRED
LONDON
CHAPMAN IT,
HENRIETTA
HALL,
"
STREET,
COVENT
1902
A II
rights reserved
LIMITED
GARDEN,
W.C.
SCHOOL
GENERAL
PREFACE
THE
of
aim
produce
to
Author
the
classes, their
supplement
to
thus
and
field
than
will
is
also
possible it
is
To
work
It
for
treat
to
various
will
is to
be
be
the
as
a
room, class-
a
cover
larger It
circumstances.
handbook
teaching
for
matter
various
Author's
avail
interesting that
noted
a
as
to
enabled
the
in
gained
been
attending be
may
ordinary
to
and
"
cram
best
blocks, etc., for
held
use
and
the
structors in-
some
tion demonstra-
to
in
LONDON, 1902.
109953
has
care
minimize
this
are
and
advantages the
country,
instructive.
and
thanks
the
throughout
book
book,
subjects
of
themselves
classes
"
use
The
lent
unable
the
by
under
students
they
instructor
has
treatise
classes.
those
offered
the
their
the
hoped,
by suggesting in
to
knowledge
assist
serve,
that
so
this
writing useful
text-book
a
technological
in
been
not
has
any
been
such
due
to
those
the
second
prepared taken
to
tendency. who
volume.
have
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
CONSTRUCTION
THE
I.
COMPOSITION
AND
OF
THE
FOOT. PAGE
introduction
Historic
of
of
leg
os
"
Phalanges
"
Ligaments of
Arches
foot
the
muscles
The
in
leg
Peroneus
of
pollicis
foot
Flexor
pollicis
brevis
Flexor
brevis
proprius tertius
Flexor
pedis
versus
digitorum
Nerves
plantar
Three Skin
Arteries "
foot
of
digiti
pollicis
inter-ossei
Four
"
Trans-
"
inter-ossei "
"
Walking
"
"
Four
Running
"
"
Me -
anatomical
Observation,
"
"
digitorum
brevis Adductor
Standing
"
"
chanics
Abductor
minimi
"
"
longus
"
Abductor
accessorius
"
"
Flexor
"
lumbricales
Soleus "
digitorum brevis
Flexor
digiti
pollicis
Peroneus
Plantaris
"
minimi
"
"
pollicis
"
"
Groups
"
Peroneus
Extensor
"
"
muscles
"
longus
"
-joint ligament
"
Flexor
Muscles
of
Gastro-cnemius "
posticus
Tibialis
Ankle "
Extensor
"
digitorum
bones
Cuneiform
"
Joints
anticus
"
brevis
bone
"
Naming
"
longus
Extensor "
muscles
Tibialis
The
tarsal
Calcaneo-scaphoid
"
"
"
longus
ligament
Plantar
"
The
Scaphoid
"
"
bones
bone "
foot
the
of
Study of
of
"
bone
bones
limbs
Composition
"
of
"
Metatarsal
bones
"
construction
"
Bones
Cuboid
calcis
lower
of
"
properties
the
"
The
of
bones
Bones
femur
and
knowledge
The
subject
"
Uses
"
of
Division
Foot
of
Importance
"
1 ....
i
CHAPTER
CHARACTERISTICS,
Variety
in
feet
periods
theory "
"
measured
Mode
Types
Feet
Taking
"
Military of
position
"
mould
with
met
"
"
ETC.
National
different
at
Camper's
theory
"
position
according
"
usually
FEET,
Four-Square
Classification
Feet
OF
Characteristics
"
walking^
of
"
Footfalls
casts
TYPES
proportions
feet
"
Meyer's
"
CONTOURS,
Average
"
Adult
II.
to
"
ments tempera-
difference
Plaster "
in
sections "
How
the
foot
may
be 35
viii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
MEASURING
THE
FOOT
III.
DRAFTS,
:
AND
IMPRESSIONS,
APPARATUS,
MEASUREMENTS. PAGE
Measurements
Size-stick
""
draft
"
should
that
The
"
methods
system
Ellis's
"
of
of
Scott's
"
Plans
pedistat "
ances measuring Allowments taking foot-measure"
podameter
Principlesof a scale Quarter-inch system Irregulargradations "
scale
Standard
system
Alden's
"
French
"
measurements
Dutch
"
measurement
method
standard
Classed
"
American
"
Ninth
"
Heel-measures
"
of
heel-
The
"
elevations
and
measures"
measurements
"
A
"
operation
Various
"
American
girth locater standard
taken
made
The
"
"
be
be
to "
The
Tape measures measurer Foot-impressions Impression-box Measures
plan
or
"
standard
Improved
"
measurements
measurements
"
"
Irish
German
"
53
measurements .
CHAPTER
SOLE-SHAPES
SECTIONS
LAST
"
IV.
LAST
"
productionof sole-shapes Sole proportions
The
LAST
AND
MAKING
"
"
Effect
of
FITTING.
raising
"Shapes to constructingsole-shapes follow Meyer's principle Camper's theory Shapes upon Hannibal's Pass- May method Obtaining proportions system Pointed A for other sizes or system of shape construction sizes and toes Grading fittings Pass-May system of square grading fittings System of grading Cote grading machine Structure of wood Last sections Spokes Seasoning wood heel
of foot
Methods
"
of
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
Sorting into pairs Chopping Knifing Completing Last-making machinery Pitch Spring Drop, or dead
"
"
"
Classifyinglasts
"
Boot
lasts
Shoe
"
of work "
"
"
Positions
Observations
on
"
"
Comb lasts
"
"
Block
lasts "
Slipper lasts
"
to
lasts
measure
lasts "
"
Art
Sectional
Lasts
for various
"
"
"
waists lasts
"
kinds
Last-measuring machine 81
Fitting-uplasts
V.
CHAPTER
UPPER
lasts
lasts
PATTERN-MAKING
GRADING.
AND
pattern-making Sections of pattern-making Soule's measuring system of forme-cutting Marking and Forme Inclination Pitch allowances Lasting over system from and profile Standard pattern Constructing standard
and
science
of
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
CONTENTS.
forme
Observations
"
Vamps
Springing
"
Other
"
Side
patterns
Facings
"
system
Geometrical how
and
"
system system
work
Sewrounds
"
CHAPTER
Art
of
OK
Hides
Skins
clicking "
skin
Modes
"
of
disposition "
Calf
patent
kid
Russias
"
glove
qualities "
Kip
"
Porpoise
"
qualities Machinery
"
skins
FITTING
Skiving
Fitting "
Kangaroo
Turning-in
"
of
Modes
"
"
"
"
"
Check-springs "
silks,cotton,
etc.
etc.
"
Mechanical
Sorting
"
boots
"
Direction
Pressers of
"
motion
points" Special
.
.
"
pasting
Needles
"
Take-ups "
"
"
Threads,
machines
243 .
INDEX
"
buttoned
without
of stitch "
edges
Women's
"
cesses pro-
Adhesives
"
of
Fitting
"
Formation Tensions
"
preparatory etc.
Treatment
"
laced
Threading-up
Grain,
CLOSING.
Other
"
beaders,
buttoned
Stitches
Shuttles, hooks,
"
OR
Ink
seams
Men's
"
"
Glove
"
204
"
Women's
"
boots
machines
Sewing Feeds
machines
"
laced
Men's
hide
Alligators
"
MACHINING
fitting Rubbing
machines
Bagging
skins
kid
......
Button-piece
"
"
Calf
"
Satin
"
of Shoe
VII.
AND
Skiving
"
skins
Sheep
"
butts
CHAPTER
UPPER
"
"
Modes
Seam-to-toe
calf
of
Systems
"
"
wax
Costing
"
"
or
skins
tightness
boots
Shoe
"
.
construction
of
and
Goat
"
hide
Russia
"
grain
hides
patterns,
LEATHERS.
Selection
"
Calf
cutting
Horse
"
in .
Anatomical
Button
"
Bespoke
"
"
Stretchiness
"
The
Shifting systems
"
.119
UPPER
Kips
"
"
VI.
CUTTING
preparation
principles
Clicking
vamps
"
system
.
CLICKING,
ances allow-
Designing
"
Errors
"
"
Quarter
"
Comparative
"
Adapted
Long
"
constructor
Grading
"
boots
Button
Derbies
"
"
Goloshes
"
underlays, lasting
One-fifteenth
"
system
remedied
sides
Pattern
"
vamps "
Seams,
"
Shoes
"
spring
drafting
Elastic
"
patterns
pattern
One-sixteenth
"
to
Standard
"
patterns
Bespoke
elastic-side
How
Markers
"
Lining
"
"
"
standard
parts of
lace
"
of vamps
standards
Shoe
standard-cutting
on
.
289
MANUFACTURE
THE
OF
SHOES
AND
BOOTS
CHAPTER
CONSTRUCTION
THE
Historic
bear
evidence
years a
The
old.
COMPOSITION
It is difficult to
"
that
the custom
earlier
protectionfor
to
B.C.
heights and and
it is
of boots scope
the
sole of
The
1500.
the
Romans
shapes,accordingto shoes
Fig. 2
of
Fig. 1 an
no
foot.
are
ancients,but
is not
will
idea
shoe.
in
are
to
of
of
study
Anglo-Saxon
confined
supposed
to
an
thousand
Sandals
the status
give
in use,
doubt
shoes
wore
instructive
of the
of this work.
shoe, and
FOOT.
ascertain precisely Ancient writings
productionswere
interestingand and
THE
is at least three
existence, of Egyptian origin,that back
OF
first worn. was foot-gear that some protectionor covering was
it is certain
and
to
Introduction.
period when
the
AND
I.
date
various
the wearer, the
history
within of
Those
the
Roman
a
who B
wish
THE
to
be
with
acquainted
consult
should
English periods
Button, entitled, Boots The
the Foot, in the shown
of
Importance
production
it will
of
Construction
the
be best
the foot
how
noted
be
*
Ancestors."
foot-gear,can
of modern
H.
W.
Mr.
by
our
of
Knowledge
a
by Fig. 3, where
of
earlier
in
worn
work
a
Shoes
and
"
shapes
various
the
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
may
through improper clothing. An acquaintance with the covering to be enable the object covered would suitably adapted to its requirements,and even, in the case
be
malformed
of fashionable of
of the
anatomy
parts of the foot
parts separated
with
advantage,
be
may
seeking
from
one
extremities
the
other
with
proceeded of
seeking practically *
of the
study
component
by dissection,in
shapes,relations,and
resemblances
the
foot is the
muscles, bones, tendons, ligaments,etc.
"
their
examine
pedal
studied
several
are
physiology, etc. anatomy, osteology,
as
study
be
may
ing design-
assist in the
productions. There
that
of science
The
to
shoes, would
and
comfortable
more
branches such
boots
Published
and
animals
out
by
the Messrs.
in
differences of
different
arrangements Chapman
order The
connections.
various
(1) by
ways: exist
that
"
in
the
species; (2) by of
the
" Hall, Ltd,
foot
;
or
COMPOSITION
AND
CONSTRUCTION
(3) by examining
the
parts of
as
The
latter
useful in
foot
the
the
to
supplemented that
take
that
therefore
these
The the
of
ideas
anatomy
foot,of form, and This
for
made
muscular bones the
alone
from
of
will
which
tion informa-
prevent
mistakes
in the
of
attitudes
and
movements.
of
shoes
for
used
and
to
be
different
cycling.
sometimes
apparent
proportionwhen take
movements
The
feel
of
the
and
ternal ex-
their
is also useful.
Division
lower
ideas
exact
an
bony parts
The
sought for in proportion of the be
should
and
This
of
certain
relation
amount
to
skeleton
made
place.
certain
a
The
the
foot.
changes
and
understood,
furnish
without
knowledge
being
have
causes
proportionscannot
be defined
the
to
be
form
of
The
be
parts, either
measurements,
therefore
changes
by bony prominences,
should
marks
take
of
kinds
tendinous.
or
the
walking, running, dancing, and
as
softer
to
modifications intelligible
enable
to
is determined the
by
the
are
various
such
purposes, Form
the
that
of the various
is necessary
ought
parts of the foot.
shoemakers'
study
remain
movements.
advantage
of the
it
most
not
foot does
should
the
form.
the
be
to
usage,
of
its various
changes
it will be of
of information
its
during
external
its
the
3
position of
appear
as
knowledge
a
place during
determine
but,
;
repose
by
would
study
shoemaker
position of
a
influence
FOOT.
THE
composition and they
of
form
OF
bony
of
the
F/l.4
"
of
structure
extremities
ligaments,
Subject. will
arches,
the be
dealt
mechanics,
with, also muscles,
the
joints,
positions
of
THE
4
MANUFACTURE
and
standing
BOOTS
OF
the
and
walking,
SHOES.
AND
lessons
derived
be
to
therefrom. The
and
Limbs
Lower
the
are
reference
by
seen
relativelyto
occupy
than
powerful
Fig.
to
the
the
The
of
65
inches
occupies 17'9 inches, foot
inches.
10f6
about
foot
a
The
The the
bones
apart,and
nearly touching each Study
of the
tibia
the
other
thigh
descend
at the
made
an
found
the
(thigh-bone) inches, the
-4
the
at
slant
they
bones,
hip
are
inwards,
knee.
is termed
Bones
viz. the
"
femur
(leg-bone)14
of the
they
as
number
Humphrey
of this the
; and
that
bones
skeletons, and
twenty-five European
be
height to
in
be
the
of
five metatarsal
tarsal and femur, tibia,fibula,seven and fourteen phalanges. Professor
portion pro-
more
give proof
erect
average
The
larger and
are
to man. position being natural comprise each limb are twenty-nine
figure,
figurewill
whole
limbs, and
upper
of the
locomotion.
They
4.
half
lower
support and
of
means
they
the
occupy
Osteology.
Some
of
simplifythe description,such as anterior described when so viewing the bone portion of a bone when from the front of the body ; posterior, viewing from The the back. long bones in the limbs act as axes, and are composed of two parts" the body, or shaft,and two extremities,or epiphyses. The small bones in the foot are somewhat wedge-shaped. used
terms
"
of
Uses
the
soft
or
the
which
upon
their
fleshy parts
gives them
that
and
Bones
Properties. The
of the
shape. muscles
bones
"
form
limbs, and in
They form, act, and
framework
a
some
support levers
cases,
give originto
the
various
dead bone is examined leg and foot. When It is it is a hard-looking, whitish-yellow,tough substance. compared with its strength. In its lightin weight when ing living state it has a pinky colour, due to the blood circulat-
of the
motions
through is cased firm takes
"
its minute
except when
covered
If this
membrane.
placein
channels.
that
The
by cartilage
membrane
part of the
exterior "
is
of the bone with
a
injured,local
bone, because
of its
thin, death
being
attached
to the bone.
forms
smooth
a
act
to
as
the
a
of attachment
for
If
etc.
an
seen
finite in-
of minute
FIBULA
it is through
and
little tunnels is
bone
the
it is
TIBIA
vessels, containing blood-
canals
these
cles, mus-
under
filled with number
built
that up
nourished.
and
bones
The
at
the
of their
commencement
formation of
means
be examined
be
PATELLA
piece of
a
microscope
to
fEMUR
(2)
(3) to provide
a
be
friction; and
lessen
bone
may
to
it covers;
bone
to
to
nutriment
convey
ligaments
affords
(1)
:
medium
a
also
5
that
is threefold
use
FOOT.
duces re-
so
friction; so its
THE
It
surface
bone, and
the
to
membrane
muscles, tendons, and
the
whereby
means
This
nutrition.
its
of
deprived
OF
COMPOSITION
AND
CONSTRUCTION
composed cartilage,or gristle,
and
are
gradually made bone by the earthy
are
into salts
being
TARSUS
deposited
sels, METATARSUS through the blood-vesthereby imparting PHALANGES rigidityto the cartilage. childhood
In made do
up
not
to bend
bones
of
parts which
unite or
are
until
maturity
misshape them.
is
reached,
so
that
it is easy
MANUFACTURE
THE
6
OF
Composition of Bone. that
remainder
the
children
salts
softer
are
and
persons,
so
of
brittle and The
the
impart flexibility,
the
bone.
The
than
those
elastic
more
In
easily bent.
or
old
inorganiccompounds,
so
of
bones
of older
age
there
that
the
is
a
bones
liable to fracture.
Femur,
body,
and
constituents
inorganic to
materials
bulk, the
of the
substances
hardness,
are
preponderance are
animal
SHOES.
organic
or
one-third
of
up
AND
animal
about
made
The
earthy
The
"
are
being salts.
earthy and
bone
compose
BOOTS
and
bone
or
of the
it transmits knees.
the
Fig.
body
sketch
a
in
largestbone
of the
weight
gives
5
the
thigh, is
of
the
to
front
the
view. The the
Two
different
fibula,are
the
side
inner
The
(Fig.6).
it to
not
behind
Tibialis
leg and
a
which
the Flexor
The
gives originto longus digito-
posticus.
clasp-bone,is
situated
little behind
the
shin-bone, but At
tibia
ankle
outer
plane.
transverse
neath be-
than
forward and
inner
of the
top front
expanded astragalus.
the
with
end, more
the
same
anticus, and
fibula, or
joint,of
the
edge
the
joint
two
is
end
lower
the
easily felt
and
sharp
is
direction
Its
the
that
upper
outer
weight.
in
foot.
parallel.At
also,at the lower so
thigh-bone
the
legs
a
outer
receives
well-formed
The
form
to
fibula ;
are
the
it is very skin.
from
body
are (tibise)
on
shin-bone, the larger of
carries
the
the
the
on
and
It is
of the
fibula
of the
in
tibia
the
"
weight
across
The
are
the
the
and
size,and
two, is triangularin section,and
portion
rum,
other
the
and
the
bones
the Tibialis
and
tibia,or
vertical, and
ti" 5-
in their
each
placed parallel to
tibia
Leg, the
the
of
Bones
slender
more
its upper it forms
end no
tibia.
part, and
It is
does
and
it is not
the
on
level at
outer
long
as
as
sustain
not
with
side
the
its lower
kneeend
it
THE
8
MANUFACTURE
OF
of
the
tarsal
to
the
ground posteriorly.
bones, and
BOOTS
transmits
the
It also
affords
JEV.'^
CALCIS
of the
body
attachment
for
weight the
os
SHOES.
AND
muscles
of the
At
upper
its
surface the CUBOID
of
.-SCAPHOID
TARSUS a
it supports
It
has
negro
longer
than
heel
the
white
but
the
man;
apparent
lengthening is
calf,rather than
to
any
diminutive of the
calcis. This
os
7
of
the
construction fit
due
smallness
to the PHALAN"ES
bone the
gives origin to Extensor
brevis
digitorum.
There
along its under surface for muscles longus pollicis. Other are
"
Abductor
is
the
a
deep
ning run-
groove
Flexor
of the
tendon
arising
this
from
digiti minimi,
pollicis,Abductor
is
thought
the
that
ward for-
key-bone
sometimes META
calf.
foot.
the
the
of
tendon
brevis
bone Flexor
digitorum.
There
fixed
are
this
to
three
bone
strong ligaments, to
arch
preserve of
(Figs.8 The
the and
of foot.
is received
in
The the
front
portion
cavity of
the
of
tibia
this and
9).
huckle-
bone, is the the
foot
lus, Astraga-
or
of
the
the
stone keyarch
important bone fibula (Fig. 10).
CONSTRUCTION
The
surface
upper
than
behind, and
when
running
which
allows
is
elastic
inwards. socket
a
the
ligament mainly supports its
arch, and
the
goes
Cuboid
The
a
the
sole
of the
Peroneus The on
Scaphoid
the
inner
the
The
is
has
sought The bones
bones, but inner
great the
across
that
foot.
in
the
over
is
the
on
that be
can
of
the
side, It
inwards.
the
on
of
its under
foot
easilyfelt
front
side
inner
the
don ten-
metatarsal
the
gives,on
turn
to the
in
are
by
met
placed
foot inwards.
the
number,
Bones, of which
second should
foot,the bones
the
two
pollicis.
is
foot,and
there
together where
are
is
"
one
and
they join
from be
strong, and
the
inner
side
speciallynoticed.
just described from
front
form
the
to
tarsal
The
first,
supports is
arch
back, and
the than
longer
In the an
long
five,are
they descend, separate slightly.
The
concavities
passes
brevis
bridges
turns
others, and
bone, is short
others,and
of the two
toe.
that
the
close
are as
for
taking measures.
Metatarsal
that
that
gives insertion
It
anteriorly are
muscles
two
after in
intended
form, and
in
boat
Bones, three
prominence
a
a
foot.
cuneiform
to
the
of
gives origin to
which
which posticus,
larger than
insertion
is like
side of the
scaphoid,and
foot
or
Bone
Cuneiform
bones.
9).
side
outer
the Flexor
sheath
a
and
(Figs.8
groove.
Tibialis
of the The
from
gives
should, down
muscle
It
and pollicis
arises
longus
foot.
This
left.
foot,and
surface
long peroneal
slightly
a
gap
it
the
the
adductor
the
flat on
head
side below
its under
on
backwards
scaphoid,and
the
than
more
front
convex
of the
foot becomes
groove
muscles, the Adductor The
inner
is situated
the
by
of
tendon
obliquelyto
front
arch
yields
the
Bone
has
It
foot. the
if it
and
spring;
In
in
oblique groove longus pollicisto
Flexor
the
wider
9
an
situated, filling up
is
ligament
is
formed
On
calcis.
os
FOOT.
dislocation
There
of the
THE
inch
an
prevents
tendon
into
OF
of
jumping.
and
the
by
this
the
received
below
is one-fifth
or
downwards
run
COMPOSITION
AND
skeleton that
the
has
other
THE
io
MANUFACTURE
OF
BOOTS
AND
SHOES.
e
The
Phalanges three
arranged
of
the
to
two
the
leverage of
little
has
only
the
Under
value, unless
the
that
the
of
first metatarsal
are
bones
bones, which
work
the
individual relation
their
number,
the
sesamoid
tendons
knowledge
in
exception of the two, thereby giving greater
bones, termed
are
The
toe, with
first toe.
small
toes, fourteen
each
on
great toe, which power
the
toe.
great
will
bones
be
increase
studied
also
of
be as
a
whole. Joints.
The
"
tipped
are
the
to
with
Between
membrane.
This of
quantity is
or
of
the
Its
leg.
extended, raised
and
scarcely any
when
the
foot is
movement
does
a
is at
being narrower
behind
united
by
the
of
directlyforwards, but feet are fully extended when the
flexed ankles
heels, and will is
they
the
an
;
and
important
lasts for shoes.
foot
various
when
the
tibia, no the
when
the
flexed, they will to
bear
-height heels, and
in
to
each
of
diverge.
mind
such
tiptoe,
on
changed toe
when
other, and
stands
great
is not
that
so
work
and
tibia
each
to
person
fibula
opening
The
position be
extended, if
a
the
astragalus
the
opens
slightly outwards, If
is bent
fully flexed,
foot is
incline
lateral
tibia and
The
the
fact,
between
to the
owing
In
foot
place
ligament.
If the
fact
place.
to
the
and
strong hinge-joint,
a
in front.
decline.
separate.
approach
this
they
are
be flexed
foot to
takes
huckle-bone the
exercises
so
is
take
ligament,and
a
larger front
fibula,and
only
movement
than
health
In
astragalus the
movement
tibia,and
small
a
surfaces, which
the
right angles
slight lateral
synovial
a
other.
by
permitted, and
found
containing
the
is to allow
use
lateral
the
the
each
joints
at
synovia.
depressed. It
or
astragalus and
are
bag
enable
to
Ankle-joint is formed
The
bones
sufficient
glide easilyover
to
of
meet
cartilagefixed firmly
cartilagesis
kind
a
that
of
layer
a
the
is
bones
lubricatingfluid,termed
only
smooth,
of the
or gristle,
bone.
there
surfaces
in
the foot This
-designing as
running
A
second
the
and
joint in
calcis.
os
is moved
astragalusand
on
limit
bands
are
the
of
arch
and
mutual
foot
tage advan-
strength
each
in
shape largelyto
its
owes
being work
often
joint. They
a
developing
the
of
office
tissue ; their
muscles, being of
the
preserving The
other.
depressed
side and
flexible,tough, inextensible,
of
movements
alternately with in
the
cuboid, and
scaphoid and
fibrous silvery-looking,
somewhat
foot
between
joint is
the inner
on
the
when
side.
outer
Ligaments
to
raised
n
astragalus
the
play
third
the
calcis,and
os
the foot to be
the
A
into
FOOT,
THE
is between
brought
side.
to
OF
foot
the
It is
side
from
allows
COMPOSITION
AND
CONSTRUCTION
their aid. The
Plantar
Ligament
metatarsal, and has
and
the to
it
say
is often
been
the
connects
supposed
be
to
the
be
the
in
muscles
taining maincorrect
more
arch, A,
the
forming
roof,
a
of
means
arch, although it would
assists
of
tie-beam
to the
likened
the
calcis with
os
Fig. 8. The
of
ligament
It
foot.
the
is
is not
in
allowing
weight is it forces
borne the
The
boots cause
them
foot"
are
the
and
the
are
are
the
turned
astragalus lowers, and turned
of
usage
of
in
of
vice
the versa
os
the
ligaments
will "flat
and
its share
adds
use
the
When
is lowered,
relaxed, so
calcis is
if the
weight
proper step. Im-
the
out, the scaphoid bone to
sists con-
position,thus
(see B, Fig. 8).
foot
elasticity
little when
a
ankle"
"weak
tissue
usefulness
its normal
ligament
ligament uniting it
There osseus
the
This
elongationof
of the foot
to
deteriorate, and
exhibited.
elastic
after it is relieved
it,and
preventing
important
quality
to provisions,elasticity
other
toes
the
the
upon
to
of
ligaments,and its astragalusto descend
key-stone again
giving,among
another
other
to
common
is
composed
supports the huckle-bone.
and
to
Scaphoid Ligament
Calcaneo-
of the
toes
foot
inwards. are
other
(Fig. 9)
ligaments
between
the
in the
foot,such
astragalusand
as
the
the interos
calcis,
CONSTRUCTION
and
AND
those
between that
ligament front
binds
strain
on
ligament
a
Arches
arches,
of
the
Foot
metatarsal
of the
ground
the
how
margin
The
arch
is
of
constant
the
pressure
that intermittent
The
form
two
The
transverse.
TUNNEL
~~GS
by standingon
with
flatter the
is than
is
CALCIS
feet will
wet
It
out-
p/g
JQ
inside.
the
complete
in
each
calcaneo-cuboid
the
by
supported
pillarformed
the
foot, and
by
posterior
.....
descends the
the
an__
f
/-/
pillarslopesgraduball
the
of
SECTION
(Fig.12). therefore
foot
inner
the
(Fig. 9).
mainly
the
the
long height and
straight to
to
ball
the
out-
ground, whereas
foot
in
the
heel-bone
ally
other
towards
is
ligament.
terior
the
the
much
side
almost
of
from
foot
flat surface
the
spread
in the
Its
impression made
pier or
the
that
bones
distance
lessens
of
show
at
and
from
bones
foot.
the
side,and
a
bone
wasting,but
The
"
greatest on
are
side
behind
sheet
dense
very
in
curve
or
to the heads
front, being situated
span
a
heel
mind
causes
extends
calcis behind
the
axis
in
longitudinal and
one
longitudinal arch of
the
to
borne
fascia is
the
to
bend
13
annular
; also the
the
to
FOOT.
THE
promotes growth.
pressure
os
plantar
fixed
be
bones
tendons
fastened
It should
foot.
the
the
sole, and
OF
cuneiform
The
tissue
the
over
or
the
of the foot.
of fibrous
COMPOSITION
The
solid
OF
TRANSVERSE
ARCH
arch behind
elastic
and
or
springy
in
front. The and is
transverse
is most across
the
marked
arch over
cuneiform
(Fig.11) the and
extends
instep" cuboid
from
that
bones.
side to
side,
is,its convexity It forms
half
THE
14
a
dome
side.
in each
V -\
be
the
its
bearing
the inner
greatest height on down
Fig.
12.
Fig.
13.
of the
arches, is
ligaments and
the
bones
I
are
body; and,secondjy, the
about
attains
the
the be
binding
up
shoes,
to
be
well
here
to
the
or
are
not
best
methods
will
the
of stiff shanks
making
It
seen
stiff leather
in
coverings,
foot.
ments, liga-
it will
ankle
to
said
been
respecting that
From
weight.
has
what
body
crease greater in-
a
of
of fourteen,
age
when
of the
put
sufficientlydeveloped bear the weight of /to the
arch
most
the child be
"
early,before
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
engendered first,in infancy,if
its feet too
"
OF
foot,with
Flat foot,or
likelyto upon
MANUFACTURE
restore
consider
the
lated calcuthe some
16
THE
MANUFACTURE
OF
Abductors
Adductors
that
muscles
"
BOOTS
"
SHOES.
AND
draw
from.
draw
to.
bend
limbs.
"
Flexors
"
"
Extensors
straightenlimbs.
"
"
in
Groups
the
Legs.
In
the
legs there
opposed
to
each
other
"
muscles
that
it is the
balancing of and
standing muscles
are
not
walking to being under
and
it is
of muscular the
leg
foot in
only
actions be
be
foot
often
smaller
are
when
beneath
seen
than
of the
muscles of
give
the
the
those
foot,while
in the are
and
Tibialis
2. Extensor 3.
in
to
the
not
change
muscles
they in
the
their action their
in
the
is
functions.
foot
ments move-
itself
OF
THE
LEG.
(Fig.15) ; B. The peroneal group group 17) ; and C. The posteriorgroup (Fig.18). A.
1.
muscles
powerful
more
anterior
The
(Figs.16
The
situated
tion combina-
of tension
leg,and
the
decided, un-
gracefulmotions.
MUSCLES A.
do
gracefulin
those
and
the
power
state
a
are
The
tendons
skin.
leg perform
delicate
more
in
the
direct, consequently they The
movements
transmit
These
action, and
infancy, these
In
is attained.
strong, and
of
groups
foot that enable
long practicethat
movement
form, i.e. stretch,and
may
the
performed.
of tendons.
means
in their
upon
control,the
after
large and
are
by
these
are
Extensor
4. Peroneus
B.
The
Anterior
Group.
anticus.
proprius pollicis. longus digitorum. tertius.
The
Peroneal
5. Peroneus
longus.
6. Peroneus
brevis.
Group.
CONSTRUCTION
AND
COMPOSITION
C. The
OF
Posterior
7.
Gastro-cnemius,
8.
Plantaris.
2
THE
FOOT.
17
Group.
(insideand outside),
9. Soleus. 10.
Tibialis
11.
Flexor
posticus. longus digitorum.
12.
Flexor
proprius pollicis.
1. The the
from
of
the
which
is
foot
and
first metatarsal. the
also turns raises
the
the
it is in front
of
the
leg;
it
inwards, and
During
traction con-
ankle
clearlydefined
a
(Fig.19). 2.
arises
The
Extensor
from
under
side
of
the
tendon
is inserted
phalanx to raise
tendon
surface
in
the
of the the
that
great
of the anticus
be
may
the
Its action
It has
seen
second
a
is
strong
the foot is extended
when
longus digitorum arises
tibia,and It
foot,and
and
the
(Fig. 20).
Extensor
(1).
ligament)
of
toe.
toe.
outer
Tibialis
the
of the
base
great
is forced up 3. The
of
anticus the
the annular
the upper
pollicis
Tibialis
(passingon
anticus, beneath
along
proprius the
descends
(1) and
toe
first cuneiform
externally,marking
seen
of the
fibula, and
-Its action
border.
inside
of"
arises
ment, liga-
of the
toe
great
front
It
inner
surface
front
muscle.
replaced
to the
in the
upper
the
and
annular
is inserted
towards
cord
the
and
draw
to
it is
inclines
side,passingbeneath
flexor
a
tibia
inwards, where
tendon
a
is
anticus
outside
descends
by
Tibialis
lies to
descends
the
by
a
outer
tendon
from
side of the that
the
side out-
Tibialis
divides
but
1
8
THE
MANUFACTURE
together,and
remains After
it has
passed
separates and into
the
last
on
During
the
action
16
6
FIG 4. The
the annular
Tibialis
the
also
it is visible
13 3
Peroneus
tertius
tendon
it goes
beneath
in
fifth metatarsal.
5. The
tendon inserted
are
(Fig.21). Its action, in anticus (1),is to flex the
to
extend
on
the
the
toes
surface
upper
the
on
of the
foot. foot.
FIG17.
Extensor
of the
ligament.
divided
divisions
four
16.
of the
border
annular
16
tendon
the
the
ligament,the
The
SHOES.
AND
of the toes
phalanx
leg,and
BOOTS
beneath
passes
spreads out.
conjunction with foot
OF
is sometimes
classed
as
the
fifth
longus digitorum (3),with which the annular ligament to be inserted Its
action
is to
raise
the
outer
foot.
Peroneus
longus arises from
the
head
of the
fibula,
and
the
through is similar as
bow
a
The
unites
also
ankle
tendons
together
on
pass
heel, and
the
along
and
longus
(Peroneus
brevis)separate, and
inserted
are
in
The
of the fifth metatarsal.
the base action raise
Peroneus
the
with
its tendon
outside
the
is the
Tibialis
border, turning the
outer
It is the
anticus
are
developed
run,
and
(1).
who
walk,
others
give
that
calves
Gastro-cnemius.
muscles
are
leg.
femur, and
with The
action
is to
the
leg,and
by
the
heel
Their
they
extend the
one
the other
tendon
the
are
name,
outside,and
the inside of the the
There
"
this
bearing the
on
is from
muscles
in athletes.
7. The
situated
These
with
largelydeveloped
of the
reverse
those
in
dance, and
observable
and
foot
the
extend
to
toe outwards.
on
(6), and
and
previous muscle,
the
longus (5). They
two
Its action
arises
brevis
Peroneus
underneath
the
of
play during dancing. 6.
the
sole
brought
is
It
heel-bone, the
across
19
creasing in-
arch
the
across
the
Irevis
Peroneus
the
hollow.
the into
of
that
to
FOOT.
THE
first metatarsal.
in the
is inserted
bone,
cuboid
the
along
ankle
outer
in
groove
the foot, and
serves
the
behind
runs
OF
COMPOSITION
AND
CONSTRUCTION
origin
are
nected con-
Achilles. the
tendon
foot
on
to
raise
on
the
of the foot.
F/G./8 The
8.
outside with
Plantaris
of the
the
thin
femur.
outside
the tendon
rises It
a
(7).
(7), and
sometimes
short
very
Gastro-cnemius
Gastro-cnemii that
is
It
muscle
is situated
gives place
unites
united
with
to
the
a
tween be-
long
tendon
THE
20
MANUFACTURE
Achilles
and
OF
with
sometimes
BOOTS
the
fatty
AND
SHOES.
tissue
of
the
os
calcis. 9. The
Soleus
muscle
is
FIG cnemii
(7). It
Gastro-cnemii
with
the
that
is the
very
arises from
(7)
and
raise the 10.
to
heel
The
the
and
Tibialis
os
fibula,and the
tendon
body.
The
not
change
form
in the
cord-like, and
FIG.
It is affixed
to
Gastro-
the
19.
the tibia and
strongest tendon
tough
beneath
placed
does
combines
Acldlles, tendon in
is
bulk.
20.
calcis,and
depressthe
is the
means
afforded
to
toes.
posticusarises,from
the tibia and
fibula,
CONSTRUCTION
and
descends, by
ankle, and bend
inner
the
turn
The
branches
that
the 12.
The
tibia.
the
In the
inserted
are
and
toes
scaphoid.
longus digitorum
from
to
the
in them
cause
to
the
and
passes
the
groove
the
of
the the
to
end
great toe, the
ball
at the
runs
back
sole it divides Its
toss.
of the
into
four is to
action
grip in walking.
OUTER
toe. Its action
the
is to
6
at
is to raise the on
action
through
astragalus great
inside
the
fibula,
side
outer
Its
21
Flexor
longus pollicishas
originin
FOOT.
THE
tendon, behind
a
the
in
OF
foot inwards.
Flexor
ankle
bend
of
means
is inserted
and 11.
COMPOSITION
AND
ANKLE
body
of to
the
press
of the
toe
the
ground, and therebyto raise the
to
ankle.
outer
It
be
must
understood when
that
the of
spoken
is
muscle as
under
ing pass-
the
nular an-
ligament,or round the
the
tendon
The
transmits
which
It is thus
described
Muscles to
angular
structure.
its
for
of the
of form
bony
Foot.
that
a
the
"
structure
in
distinctlythe
muscles, so
21.
brief
muscular
force
foot
its
is meant.
brevity.
They
and, being situated describe
FIG.
ankle,
are
masses,
The
; the
owes
muscles
usually
but
round little
it is difficult to
precise
action
descriptionof
of the
peculiarities
the
off the
developed, isolate and individual
several
muscles
22
THE
MANUFACTURE
will
serve
our
in the
sole
OF
purpose.
of the
There
foot,and
two
are
on
four
muscles
layers of
the
part of the
upper
bones. the
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
After
the
skin
of
plantar region and tissue
fatty
has
been
fibrous tissue known fascia
of
layer
of
the
as
is
If this be taken first
moved, re-
expansion
an
plantar
the
visible. the
away muscles
exposed, consistingof
is
ductor Ab-
Flexor pollicis(14), brevis
and digitorum (18),
the
Abductor
'minimi
digiti(16) (Fig.22). second
layer,situated
the the
The der un-
first,consists
tendons
of
of the Flexors
longus digitorum (11)and
Proprius On
the
pollicis (12).
foot, the
tendon
Perpneus
layer
acces-
complete
the
muscles
acces.sorms(20)and
lumbricales named
third
(19)
(Fig. 23).
plantar layer of
Tibialis Flexor
the
must
The sists con-
tendon
brevis
the Adductor
pollicis(15), (21), 2wllicis
brevis
minimi
the
Flexor
the
foot, the Transversus
Peroneus
of
posticus(10),the
.
digiti (17),and, running across pedis (22). The sheath of the
the
To
(20).
Flexor
be
of
the Flexor
sorius
the
of the
longus (5)passes
beneath
the
side
outer
longus (5),and
MANUFACTURE
THE
24
draw
They will
called
be
"line
the
to
the
"central
consists
anticus
(1),Extensor digitorum (3),and of the Extensor the
of
consists
the
of the
on
from
inner
the
"
of the
of four
inter-ossei
muscular
central
; B.
23A.
15.
Flexor
16.
Abductor
Dorsal
(23A), fixed
toes, and
fourth line
"
on
XY,
and
one
Group. First
Second
(4).
Plantar
layer.
layer.
Group.
pollicis.
minimi
second
The
to line XY.
pollicis. brevis
four
FOOT.
THE
digitorum.
B. Abductor
under
external, central). (internal,
dorsal
Inter-ossei
14.
OF
Plantar
brevis
Extensor
action
drawing
toe
A. 13.
muscles
into
toes.
second, third, and
side of second
Dorsal
longus
The
(3), divide
the
on
Tibialis
the
(4).
extension
MUSCLES A.
of
peroneus
the
line," or
digitorum (13),after passing
layer (Fig. 25) draw
treatise
this
layer (Fig.26)
tendons
the
Tertius
the
aid in the
side
action
first
longus digitorum
tendons, and
in
proprius pollicis (2),Extensor
Irevis
Extensor
outer
XY, which
The
SHOES.
AND
muscular
action."
surface
BOOTS
line
central
of muscular
dorsal
OF
digiti.
17. Flexor
brevis
minimi
18.
Flexor
brevis
digitorum.
19.
digiti.
Internal
first
Internal
third
layer.
External
first
External
third
layer. layer. layer.
Central
first
Lumbricales.
Central
second
layer.
20.
Flexor
Central
second
layer.
21.
Adductor
Central
third
layer.
22.
Transversus
Central
third
layer.
23.
Inter-ossei
13.
The
accessorius.
pollicis. pedis.
brevis
Extensor
outer
side
under
the
four
tendons
of
the
digitorum
layer.
arises
in the
upper
heel-bone, and, broadening out, it passes
Extensor that
Fourth
plantar (3).
layer.
longus digitorum,when go
forward
and
are
it divides
inserted
into
in the bases
CONSTRUCTION
AND
of the first the toes
phalanges.
and
the
to counteract
Abductor
The
the
region of of the
Its action
FOOT.
THE
OF
is to aid the extension
obliquity of
of
tendency
os
pollicisrises
calcis,and
on
is inserted
Its action
great toe.
is to
the
from
the
central
that
forms
the
toes
15.
of
row
first
of the
in
abduct
posterior first phalanx big toe away
inner
the the
FIG.
great
25
longus digitorum.
Extensor 14.
COMPOSITION
line
the
be
Flexor
the
brought brevis
tarsus, and
foot
the
of
centre
would
The
of
to
body.
closer
the
By
imaginary this
action
line the
together. from
polliciscomes is
26.
inserted
to
the
the base
second of
the
phalanx.
16.
The
Abductor
minimi
digit! arises from
the
outside
26
THE
MANUFACTURE
OF
DORSAL
BOOTS
VIEW
AND
SHOES.
CONSTRUCTION
of the the
calcis,and
os
first
17. The
from
away Flexor
of
to
little toe. middle
the
the
the
in the
first
is inserted
little toe.
Its action
is to flex the little toe.
the
and
in
of the
phalanx
digitorum, from
brevis
Flexor
origin
base
bone, and
The
draw
is to
line of the foot,
metatarsal
18.
27
side of
external
Its action
and
longus
FOOT.
THE
digiti has
minimi
brevis
Peroneus
the
OF
forwards
goes
of the
phalanx
the little toe
sheath
COMPOSITION
AND
the
the fifth
of the
heel-bone
plantar fascia,draws
down
the
toes, and
in the
second
is inserted of the
phalanges
four toes. 19. The affixed
Four
to the
four
toes.
draw
the
Lumbricales
inner
Their in
toes
are
side
of the
action
is to
to
the
inner
side of the foot. The
20.
extends the
accessorius
Flexor
the
from
In contraction the
to
fourth
third, and
second,
toes.
calcis
os
it counteracts
obliquityof
longus digitorum,
Flexor
the
its
hence
name.
21.
arises
The
from
Peroneus and
the
fourth
toe
Its action
inserted
adduct, the
"
The in or
first the
on
is to
line of the 22.
and
The
the
the third
phalanx outer
adduct,
or
is of
side.
draw, the great toe
to the
central
foot. is the foot, and pedis goes across Its office is to the phalanx of the great toe.
Transversus
draw, the
line of muscular
23.
of
metatarsals, and
in the
great
pollicis
sheath
longus
inserted the
Adductor
Three
big toe
to
the
line of the
foot
termed
action."
Plantar
inter-ossei
are
situated
between
MANUFACTURE
THE
28
the
toes
The
23A.
on
the
the
draw
third
and
of
the
either
second to the
Nerves. "
those
the
other
from
muscles
in
give
motor
and
the
internal
and
nerves
and
of the
Arteries,
foot
etc.
situated
on
the
consists
of
two
foot
of two
are
The dermis
kinds
; the
of
dermis,
the
skin
oily
heel
and
and
and
the
toes
the
leg. those
are
The
plantar of
the
follow
the
veins
Sweat
skin
of
fibrous
glands
of
on
that
the
keep
however,
are,
pads
and
tissue,
skin
glands
found
are
epidermis The
nerves.
sebaceous
no
soft. the
pillarsof and little,
foot
from
foot
the
skin, is made
true
or
thus
the forms
the
ground
of the
arch; the
the
side
outer a
firm
slightlylonger and wider. Walking is performed leg
plantar
supply
nerves
deep. They
"
especially. standing, the weight
both a
ankle.
fat,at the
toes
When
sinks
the
supply
The
layers
two
possesses
Under
numerous.
of
blood-vessels
foot
the
and
the
to
arteries.
interposedwith sole
of
of the
outside.
surface
"
consists
Skin
and
inside
come
nerves
plantar surfaces.
and
nerves
muscles.
side of the
outer
arteries
chief
dorsal "
the
as
the
external
that
tibial
toe
branches, and
side
into
nerves,
anterior
well
as
of
kinds
tibial
inner
divides
The
The
"
of the
direction
The
then
the
giving branches
the
to
of
respectively.
impressions to
plantar
sole of the foot.
dorsum
to
down
side
either
axis
two
anterior
toes,
central
the
on
sensory
former
the
posterior tibial
The
with
that
passing
the
provided with skin
nerve,
from
side of the foot
the
sciatic
the
of the
from
away
of the
surface
dorsal
inter -ossei
two
supply
sort
toes
away
inner
or
posteriortibial
The
The
foot is
The
that
fourth
draw
toe outer
"
the
side of the bones
outer
action.
line of muscular
the
to
toes.
Inter-ossei,on
Four
situated
foot,are
outer
draw
side, and
inner
the
on
line the three
central
and
the
of
bones
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
and
as
body
inner
touches
nearly basis
follows:
bending
the
side
of
is transferred of the
the
arch
ground.
support, becoming
(1) by liftingone knee, which
throws
20-
PLANTAR
VIEW
THE
30
MANUFACTURE
the
weight
the
ball
on
the
BOOTS
AND
SHOES.
foot; (2) by raisingthe
one
of the
throwing
OF
weight
and
toe
great
bending
the
leg first
extended.
the
to
on
the
*\
foot
of
'
"
\
from
the
are
The
.
Mechanics
of
of the
the
muscles
the classification of
the
foot
the
Foot.
for
kind
a
short
active
The
"
,
periods
The
bones
Levers
determined
fulcrum,
the
by
relative
the
central
or
levers,
three
of
are
passive
the
are
the
in
agents
muscles, and
the
are
power.
being the
power,
weight
kinds,
positions
pivot,
and
the
moved.
1. The
power
the
"
2. The
that
force
work
the
performs
of
i.e.the muscles.
or lifting moving,
by
the
bones, ligaments,joints,etc.
and
feet
.
is
ground together.
mechanism the
both
the
on
^
quick walking, only,
other
(Fig-. 28).
WALKING
very
walking
the
or
Running of
on
During
isalways ground
FIG. 28.
leg
body forward,
action
one
'"
other
weight
the
"
resistance
offered
lifted
weight
or
the power. 3.
the
The
fulcrum
"
or
point
centre
of
movement
of
first order
being
the
lever. There
when
the
are
three
fulcrum
of
orders is in
I
the
levers, the
centre
and
1,2
X
~7T~
3
~jT~
~~S
is
end
of
lever, the
the in
being
the
fulcrum, the
the
other A
wheel
the
power
end
at
carried
this the
one
centre, at
the
(Y, Fig. 29). illus-
wheelbarrow
trates
load
is when
fulcrum
Z
FIG.29.
see-saw
the
and
2~
order
second
weight |
A
side
illustration.
good
a
The
y
either
on
power
(X, Fig. 29). is
".
lever, the weight
of the
class
"
the
weight, and
the
that
surprising,therefore,
not
of
varying theories
the
to
as
the
foot,is the
parts of the cause
cisely pre-
size of
and
contour
/
formed
of difficulty
The
the
effects upon
stating the
It is
joints.
the
opinions are
many
movements.
various
respecting the
obliquity of
the
muscles, and
various
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
32
of
form
best
of
shoe, advocates
a
particular form
usually
considering the
foot
in
of
motions
Applicable
tions, Observa-
series
one
only.
practicalvalue
of in
~
foot,
the
clothing
32.
FIG.
be
will
made
that
will
of the foot. impress the value of the study of the structure The non-symmetrical appearance of the foot should be the inner noted straight, especially edge being practically "
and
the
outer
different
in
construction and
complement is in
The and
Lasts
should of
functions
be
the
toes
action, moves
body the
inside. as
There
that
dotted
are
that
position,the
at
growth
toes
are
of
strength.
when
in
end
to
phalanges be
a
foot
hardly
called
base
This
is
The or
into
propel in this
is thicker
toe
thicker
the
on
inwards, great toe moves plantar view (p.29). By
the
the
compel
bone, etc.,and
flexed
two
the last should
the
in
solid
a
are
concave.
suddenly
only
line in the
constructing shoes
a
remembered
forms
the heel is raised
space
side is
inner
making
be
great toe, when
others, so the
the
When
should
The
onwards.
by
seen
of the
foot
lefts.
outwards, and
When
the
activity,it is somewhat but rightsand straights,"
"
toe, giving the impression of than
its fellow.
foot
in
not
selectinglasts.
of the
function, but
counterpart of
when
sides
two
positionof rest, the edge
a
straight,but
the
curved.
one
toe
of the
bunions
action, and
are
to
remain
phalanx formed.
the
in
this
is filled
The
joints of
by
smaller the
toes
CONSTRUCTION
COMPOSITION
AND
FOOT.
THE
OF
33
prominences while grippingthe present a series of uplifted of these functions should be the preservation consideration of the producerof boots and shoes. The muscles when in exercise promote growth, and ployed, properly developed,they are taut when not activelyemthereby keeping the bones in place: pressure and the prevents the developmentof muscular activity, formed muscles do not brace up the bones,hence partially the jointssink. The joint-action of the opposing muscles should be considered, and with their varietyof movements alteration in shape. Free play to the joints is a necessityto the fullest "ankle-bone" prominences vary usage of the foot. The in positionon oppositesides of the foot; the outer bone being lower down and further back than the inner. This The has an important bearing on the making of shoes. the purpose of affordingproarches of the foot serve tection
ground.
The
and nerves ; pressure to the muscles, vessels, weighted, must provision for elongationwhen
from the
and not
be overlooked
in
foot-gear.The
foot,the inner side being higher
equalat
both
than
outside,and lasts that
the
sides do not
sides of the
arch is not
transverse
are
equallyarched
both
on
requirementsof the foot (compare 13). Fastenings to shoes should not but the strain should preferably instep,
conform
to the
Figs.12 and tightenacross the be from instepto heel. foot is thinner
than
skin in the arch
The
waist of the
or
balls of the toes and
at the
the
heel,
to the waist, and the thicker skin giving greaterelasticity to the parts where pressure is experiencedgivesprotection into contact with the ground. The sole is richly that come of badly laid socks, providedwith nerves, and projections
rivets,or other cause
heels
of much on
boots
in the irregularities
pain to
the
The
wearer.
Some
are
inside of shoes
of them
many. of the loweringof the heel of foot to
necessary
to
exercise
the
muscles
of springto tip-toe ; the resting
effects of are
:
the
gain the
that
the foot
are
give on
an
placing
prevention impetus so
the
force to
incline D
?"v OF
THE
UNIVERSITY
the
plane,
THE
34
and
MANUFACTURE
of
the
the
and tilt
the
bones
of
occur
if of
the
the
To
together the
any
the
shorter
Fig. of
that
are
that
alteration
action, most
foot
are
are
velopment. de-
proper
said
heel
the
measured
be
that
impeded
as
of
the
on
actual
should
and
shape foot-gear
should
takes should
increased.
the
conform it
blood,
and
that
the
work, it
to
vary
be
as
the
that
effective. the
causes
their
proper of
the
requirements borne
muscular
during
go
for
and
less
uppers
the
to
given
movements
also
place
foot
be
prevents
give
should
that
their
stiff
and
note
of
makes
with
to
should
play
structure
foot
the sides
perform
muscles
and
essential
inner
to
shoe
or
is of
fullest
the
general, in
the
and
healthy
the
foot
the
of
deterioration
and
14),
leg
it
circulation
with
the
their
length
of
muscles
raise
to
should
centre
their
adopted
cannot
same
of
the
interference
foot
the the
to
ting disloca-
this
but
under and
be
chapter
the
(see
functions
action.
the
this
tendency
A
will
supposed
foot.
the
Cramping
heel
instep
thus
foot,
attaining
the
also
;
well
the
convex
is
the
of
towards
more
characteristic
from
higher
a
It
transmitted,
The
increases to
of
placed
weight
conclude
owing
be
although
the
exercise
its
give
forward
go
arch
SHOES.
AND
foot.
the
of
prevented
foot,
of
shorter
a
heel
to
production
pillar
the
size-stick,
length
the
that
BOOTS
tendency
a
of
otherwise
not
and
;
posterior
gravity
a
boot
appearance
the
not
it
giving
thereby
toe
OF
motions
in
mind
ments, move-
of
the
IT.
CHAPTER
CHARACTERISTICS,
in
Variety form
and
three
Feet.
distinct
Even
in
with
of the
feet ;
they
difference
a
done
various stature
in
;
classed,and
many
useful
are
in
knowledge Average
statures
total are
their
of the
profileof and
way,
foot to be
5 ft
are
be
stature
18'9
9 in.
rule to
points
All
the
to
feet ;
of these
in
This
ratio
the
giving
of
the
whole
by
the
methods a
better
clothed. birth
"
and
the
contrasted.
various
helpful
it is
so
single individual.
bear
measurement.
Proportions. At
in. male,
19'3
the
by comparing
plantar outline; and by
extremities
And
salient
and
of
number
quite
by tabulating
"
lower
a
their
compared
ways
parts of the
feet of
the two
difference
body.
it is
From
characteristics.
infinite
of the
in
seventy-
some
are
its
an
in detail, and
be
may
and
resemblance be
differ
are
form
external
alike, but
great diversity.
having
there
ETC.
FEET,
are
there
man,
race
between
Feet, however,
may
each
races,
exists
of
types
single race
a
variations
find
there
measurement
OF
feet
Structurally all
"
fundamental
two
TYPES
CONTOURS,
the
in. female.
male, and
height
average
The
mature
average
ft. 5 in. female.
5
represented by 67, then
the
is
various
If the
parts
proportioned relatively "
Male.
Femur
18
Tibia
14
Female.
18 ...
14 ...
Foot end
from
lower
of second
edge
of tibia to \
/
toe ...
The
proportion
of
the
various
segments
of
the
lower
MANUFACTURE
THE
36
extremities
basis,and
for the male
it arrives the
certain
before
and
at
and
at
the
parts do
situated
four
increases
and
a
three
ground
and
half times,
increase
what
thighs develop first,next
and
lastlythe
going
the
in
also short
it
at
of the
three
they
"
adult.
The
foot,double of age
years four
times,
those
"
greater rate than leg during its growth foot
of the
In
part of
upper
growing, the legs,
from in the
of the
line the
width
to the
infancy the
inner
of their
to the
length,due
In
"
margin
line of the
middle
direction
comparison
in
Periods.
foot.
length,and
of the toes.
undeveloped
the
tarsal
growth, and cared and
proportionate. bones if the
be classed
heel
develop during foot has been
for,it reaches can
The
its in its
the
well of
becomes
foot
of the The the
They
metatarsal
During growth, the apparent thickness above heel-bones and as the metatarsals disappears, progress more
from
length three
the
bones.
foot is
;
a
infancy.
at
the
rate
same
height
was
Different
toes, the
outwards
heel is small are
at
lie forward
toes
The
feet.
Characteristics
feet
puberty
"
quarter times, and
the
at
age
the
instance, the
a
is broad
these
in childhood
sexes
increased
at
half times, the a
between
times, their originallength. The
and
over
have
increase
; for
those
from
the sole of the
they
trunk
distant
more
two
reaches
person
five
not
the
near
from
of twelve
age
twenty about
various
those
the
"
characteristics
extremities,measured
length
"
"
constantly altering.
at
the
on
"
period ;
the
a
height.
cent, of the
different
between and
same,
percentage
a
"
are
adult
proportions are
to take
commence
infant
the
at
in this matter
nearly the
heightin
4"
the
SHOES.
AND
20 per
proportionsin
epochs
their
be
would
sex
15
when
lower
total
Foot
relations
the
to the
23
it has
are
given
Thigh (seatto knee) Leg (knee to ankle) Ankle to ground
The
two
be
may
BOOTS
OF
the the
thicker,and
succeeding stages exercised
and
of
properly
perfectionat maturity, appropriatetype. beauty
CHARACTERISTICS, Adult
The
is
Foot, it should
straight from the
across
further is not
so
provided done
heel to
joints than
back.
The
wide
boots
for in lasts.
right,it
will
ab, and
other
prevent
Fig. 33 be
usually
of the
from
that
is
is
foot
the
shoe, and
from
When
the
heel
of the
instep foot
FtG.tt the
ankle
thicker.
well-arched in
the
the
the
heel-bone, and
dependent upon foot
shoe
thingsare
generally present
are
the
"feather,"
the
well-developedcalf,a
step
so
the
in
is wider
side,and
large number
a
If
forward
too
the
shoes.
usually short,and
The
or
this must
at
compressingthe toes. of a foot is high,the is
in
It is not
joint in
and
to fit at
going
ab
cd, and
as
the inside
made
inch
37
properly formed,
inner
the
on
one
line
unsightly wrinkles of
toe
FEET.
OF
noted, when
be
English-made goods,hence
in
near
TYPES
CONTOURS,
position of
foot,and foot.
same
variations the
The
in
in
leg
graceful
a
jection pro-
ankles, are
relation
the
to
imaginary vertical line at the back of the in girth,the instep and ankle a joint is small leg. When are usually greater in proportion to the joint-girth.A foot the
on
an
in sole
narrow
other
hand,
circumference a
between
of the waist
of
feet that
a
a
be thick
may
foot may
have
and
difference
and
a
area
be slim
spreading
a
and
narroiv
foot varies the
full
above, and,
measure
less in
or
and
sole-area
a
slim
;
so
foot.
considerably in
there The
different
is
arch
feet,
girthhave a differently shaped arch. A person'soccupationwill cause a difference in the development of the feet. of Walking has a considerable The Mode bearing on the character, contour, and development of the foot. There are opinions as to the correct way of walking and many standing. not
be
measure
that
Boots
correct
to
walk
important bearing on
may in. the
in
same
be
correct
The
walk
shape
of the
stand
to of
a
boot
person
in
may
has
an
required,and
MANUFACTURE
THE
38
of
some
the
medical
sole
that
shapes
do
men
BOOTS
OF
not
have
in
prove
SHOES.
AND
advocated
been
practice
be
to
by
the
best
adapted for walking. *
Camper's Theory the
parallelto and
line
drawn
that
the
heel, and
others. end
of
The
second
with
be
should
toe
be The
stones.
as
that
construction,and are
those
arising from
line drawn
the
from
broad
heel
of
centre
middle
of
the *
"
f
"
the
ball, or
great On
Why
the
toe
Best
the
the
Shoe
longer
as
possible,and
only
be
foot,
The
than
sole the the
OF
on
"
Pinches," by
H.
the
turn
out
in
healthy feet breadth.
the sole
"
A
under
STAMDWG
pass
its whole by
sustain
to
and
joint, should
of Shoe,"
in
alike in mechanical
are
of the heel
moderate
should
toes
differences
through Form
of the
is
varying length
the middle
naturally
are
centre
should
POSITION
the
the
toe
that all feet
was
toes
raised,to prevent coming into
height,and placed well under centre of gravityof the body. in walking or standing. Meyer's Theory \
the
through
sole should
the
contact
that
was
Dr.
length.
Camper.
Meyer,
under
M.D.
the This
THE
40
angle of the
10"
other is
arch
edge
The
greatest(see
Footfalls
life, and
method
muscles
base
also
aaaa,
the
two
is shown
placing the feet in Fig. 35, but it
functions
of the
of
style of walking
is
develop the
to
powers
of
Fig. 36, line of
where
the
It would
be
the
play
free
an
action
The
the
to
military
lated calcunot and tiring, foot (Fig.34). Another
of the
the
37
F1Q
foot
to
the
ground is
way
to
walk,
big toe,
and
is illustrated
parallelto
direction taken
the
easy of
walking
is very
Meyer's line,"M,
body, or
periods
M
placing the "
two
when
adopted.
36
FIG
the
difficult
free
give be
by
rather
ground
would
that
one
x
mode
the
if it could
foot
A
sexes.
on
20" with
or
different
at
walking vary
in
body,
support afforded Fig. 35).
of
when
SHOES.
standing four-squarethe in a are position to act
When
foot.
the
line of the
central
firm, the
most
feet is the
the
of the
rods," and
"
as
of
with
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
in
if the
the
the
in
central
progression,CC. foot-gearallowed
heels
of
the
shoe
CHARACTERISTICS,
were
exceedingly low.
made
parallelto
is
If the line of
the
exhibited, as
is
walking
the
parallelto
TYPES
CONTOURS, inner
central
line
CC.
The
M
FEET.
of the
41
feet
are
in
variation
Fig. 37, where
M
X
edges
direction,another in
seen
OF
line LL
the
practical
most
X
0
MLIN.
fttrSHQWQ
Sa^HQW/HE
F1Q
WALKING
method in
of
Fig.38,
where
parallel to
each
This
a
allows
(aaaa),and from
and
buttress
be This
line to
hips
the
male
in sex.
on
to this
most "
line
adopt
women,
of
the
to
of
either
of
outside soles
effectual to of muscular
direction
side
have
preserve
shown
are
of
walking.
maintained
foot abduct
advantage
jointsis that
"
to be
of the
full
is shown
ground
action
support
line,while
the
shapes
shortness
the
and
muscles
with
the
on
lines of muscular
four-squarebasis
projectionsof
the foot.
The
"
other
the
practice to middle
the
adduct
it accords
foot to fall
allowing the
taken
;
been the
action," XY,
of the
further,
found
in
functions is the
designing sole shapes. the legs in children,and the
of
best
in
make
their walk
width
different to
that
of of
42
MANUFACTURE
THE
Types of are
due
Feet.
to
a
"
BOOTS
OF
The
number
sorts
many
of
of feet that such
causes,
it is the
etc., and occupation,locality,
SHOES.
AND
as
are
met
with
habits, climate,
combination
of these
FIG. 39.
in different
degreesthat give
and sole-area,
41, and
42).
dispositionof
so
many
measurement
distinctions in
profile,
(seeFigs. 39, 40,
As
a
the
body
form
of
moderate
activity,and well
to
developed
plumpness,
fie
fairly prominent, and the other but
languid
hand,
with blood
a
soft
person of
fondness
The
heel
common
with
exercise feet
possesses
43
that
is round
a
and are
and
40.
the
developed,although there On
a
symmetrical.
and
A
it is connected.
which
good circulation,
a
FEET.
OF
foot has characteristics in
general rule,the
with
TYPES
CONTOURS,
CHARACTERISTICS,
arch
are
no
person
with
tissues
and
circulation, and
of
the
waist
is
duly
specialbony prominences. ness, a body of general roundmuscles, flabby flesh, a
dilatory in action,has
feet
44
THE
that
are
MANUFACTURE
OF
Another
frame, with
strong firm
features,and
flesh that
of person
other
and
is hard
the
bones
The
firm,
the
foot.
with
The
Scotch.
the
a
the
feet of
relation that
foot
a
well-
large
large in
It is
and
of this
feet
heel-measurement
instep-girthnot
portions of
among
person
muscles, prominent
joint,the
toe
proportion, and the
flabby flesh,with a has a strong bony
usually long,bony, arched,
are
developed big
variety of
SHOES.
AND
soft and short, full in fitting,
slightarch.
type
BOOTS
in to
is prevalent who
person
is
delicately shaped, with a small frame and thin small taperingmuscles, are usually thin and finelyshaped,giving with evidence This form of foot,if found of sprightliness. a weakly constitution, is liable to a tendency to flat foot, which if neglected becomes very painful. Classification
primary forms these
names
characteristics
according to Temperaments.
There
"
three
are
motive, vital,and mental temperament being applied according to the predominant of
of
"
"
or mentality physicalconstitution,vitality,
respectively. The
is the
motive
result
of climate
habits, and
and
is
In the Scotch and Swiss mountaineers. prevalentamong Its characteristics it is stronglymarked. are large bones, hard muscles that are developed, prominent joints,and an than average height. The feet are angular figure of more long and bony, with largetoe joints; the heel-measurement is
girth. The breadth
and
not
plump the feet The
slight;
vital of
the
the
feet
are
The
motive.
the
than
in the
It is the
type
muscles
action thin
are
than and
has
a
usual
same
well
made
in up
and
strength.
has
muscles
a
greater
and
bones
limbs
the
type of
women,
are
and
arched.
framework
small
and
motive, but
small, symmetrical,and
mental
be
must
medium,
is above
tapering.
are
nearly the
are
correctlyshaped.
conspicuousas
and
rapid
be
instep of foot
class
stature
body
so
for
joints and
for this
Boots
to measure,
are
the
large,and
that
is comparatively
compact, designed rather The
nicely shaped.
structure
is
fine,and
Various
combinations
usually classed descriptionof
by combining the
three
of the
the
the
They
vital-motive, vital-mental
;
mental-vital.
The
second
found
the
Americans,
45
first
name
used
41
greater development.
motive-mental
among
two
FEET.
types exist,and are that give a names
the prevailing qualities,
FIG.
denoting
OF
TYPES
CONTOURS,
CHARACTERISTICS,
of these
motive-vital,
are
;
mental-motive,
combinations
Scotch, North
are
largely
Irish, Welsh,
46
North
Germans.
and cities,
the foot
and
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
The is
mental-motive
long, thin,
rather
AND
is found
flat,and
SHOES.
in
large in
narrow
fitting.
FIG.
The
Feet
1. Slim.
usually "
A
met
smart
12
arranged as under symmetrically shaped foot,
with
may
be
:
"
with
48
THE
of the over
leg and
the
knee
to
hold
cast
undue
held
is
easily used
to
last thread
is
The back
each
along
plasterof until
of
under
the
Paris
threads
are
drawn
making
a
divided
the
is
that for
it in
take
inside
6".
a
firmly
and
taking
are
the
foot.
the
pint and
a
may set.
heel
at
Superfine
half of water
a
carefullyplaced
to disturb
not
a
in
and
the
bottom
Sections.
of
pasted
take
removed
and
the Mould.
as
"
on
a
is
the
and
It consists bottom
pieces
of wood
smooth The
the
whole
The
12"
the
hold
of the
x
to
middle the
top
inside
possible.
as
box
to
of
x
; the
round
running sides
four
is to
preferablymade
screws.
groove
and
piecesof greased cork, about
placedin positionon
better
put togetherbeing 5J"
four
be
A
box.
top, middle,
with
is
made
proportion.
box
The
"
the
to be
experimental studies
position(see Fig.43). should
lasts have
put togetherwith
is made
screwed
in
is then
properlyconstructed
when
measurement
are
mould
out
for
cast
a
"
three
of
to when
separate portions
of the box To
they
of
nearly
foot,from
the
back
that
so
plaster when
The
resort
snugly fit the middle, section
the
the
something
are
wood
The
knee, and
the at
foot
plasteris nearly set, the carefully,so as to cut through it, When
to
Mould
hard
of three
left
the
of
put together,ready for producing of taking a mould, and quick method
stages in
Taking from
ends
edge
mould.
useful
sometimes
method
to
Another
and
foot
This
feet
leg thread
taken
without
be piled up plasteris setting,it must placing disthickness without foot,keeping it of even threads.
to
waist
being
the
the
cast.
the
consistency,and
being
foot is
dish.
the
A
to about
creamy
foot, care
the
from
of the
is added
strings. While round
the
separate the placed round
side
thick
a
the
string is brought
carefully laid,
under of
SHOES.
whose
across
thread.
laid,and
of the
is
line
sides
AND
person
end
passed
other
is next
the
direct
a
BOOTS
end
upper
other
both
the
foot
be
the
;
up
with
The
given to
"
carried
the
and
greased
"
OF
foot.
tension, in
thread and
MANUFACTURE
bottom
foot an
to
are
inch catch
well in
greased
thickness,
the heel
and
CHARACTERISTICS, of the
tread The
CONTOURS,
foot
middle
that
section
put in the
TYPES
is to be
is
placed
position that
49
(A, A, A, Fig. 43).
taken
the foot
bottom, and
the
on
FEET.
OF
it is desired
If
mould.
to
an
TOP
MIDDLE
BOTTOM
upright
pose
is wanted
vertical
with
the
FIG.
43
the
front
ground,and
from
the corks pressing on impression by allowingthe "
to be
the
plaster to
into the box
sets,build the arch
it well
of the
smoothly
as
(Fig. 44). plaster has
weight
thus
person
leg ^should
be
be relieved
may
spoilingthe who
is
plantar operated upon
the
mould
the
foot.
it
as
set
the about
"
foot
section
"
and of the
taken
When
with
pour As
foot,
top
the
to
this
accomplished,the contact
edge
of the
and
on
When
thus
harden.
the
of cream,
possible
the
remove
of
thickness
under
fifteen minutes
or
the
level
of the waist
inside
allow
the
to
rounding
ten
"
the
seated.
Mix
the
the
of
whole wet
together with
44
FIG
is of the
plasterto the foot and
surfaces
that
be used
in the
the
will
come
next
in
tion, opera-
top section of the box, E
THE
50
be
must
foot
in
the
Put
greased.
the
position on the front
over
either
side
of the
that
exist
may
plasterwell of the
of
top
mould
should
and
placed back completed, some back
To
make
inside,and into
the the
is set and
in the
of the box the
the
plastershould
more
and
in the
space
mould
foot, and
carefully done,
mould
when
set
is
exact
an
of the and
mixed
greased
well
thin, and
rather
that the
re-greased mould
poured
to set.
plasteris mixed,
some
of the
last section
foot
sections be
allowed
cast, the
the
and
edges
and
third
on
irregularities
the
and
pour
second
this
When
hardened, any
with
box
mix
edge
straightan
as
removed
be
and
mixing
first
possible.
as
greased,to prevent the adhering. This done,
mould
in the
the
than
the
place
greased plaster,and
foot,making
ankle
box, and
the
on
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
hardened
the
the
portion of
by
OF
thicker plasterslightly
some
it
MANUFACTURE
on
the
poured
occupied originally
was
removed,
mould
counterpart
of
the
foot
and, if will
be
obtained. The
Foot
extending
it
be
may on
the
in
measured
three
leg correspondingto
ways: the
first,by
positionof
FIG. 45 rest A
be
one
(Fig.45),when
the
line from
quarter of the whole
body
the ;
knee
to the toes
will
secondly,by measuring
CHARACTERISTICS,
CONTOURS,
TYPES
OF
FEET.
51
it
MANUFACTURE
THE
52
as
shoemaker
a
thirdly,
by
it
The kind
the
with
of
foot,
the if
the
ankle,
The
the
line
the
lines
so
from
the the
instep
line
CD. OE
leg,
of
and
and
of
Fig.
approach
they
the
the
of
height
In
of
each
other
various
feet
are
foot
in
of
position equality
in
with
high
becomes
OEFB
heel-line
the
with
35"
the
and
parallelogram
the
of
of
ankle
arched
an
foot
proportions
the
that
of
the
back
angle
paring com-
height to
the
at
an
noted
arched.
more
angles
types
the
as
ankle The
the
index that
is
be
relation
line
of
the
as
the
by
means
a
in
leg
the
ground
such
makes
39)
(Fig. should
OF
foot
square.
AB
and
C,
determine
the
afford
imaginary
an
It
with
the
of
and,
;
by
largely
characteristics,
position
measured
foot.
of
the
45)
body.
will
recorded,
(Fig.
illustrated
will
made
angle
principal
and
the
of foot
a
B
position
the
in
and
size-stick
a
height
heel-measure
measuring-tape,
as
in
it
putting
comparing
with
does,
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
the
a
illustrations
"
z
x
Y
39
35"
42"
39"
40
45"
38"
42"
41
47"
43"
42"
42
46"
38"
55"
"
"
"
In
Fig.
46
is
illustrated
the
types
of
the
soles
of
feet.
III.
CHAPTER
MEASURING
THE
MEASUREMENTS.
AND
MEASUREMENTS either
of make
to
who
requires
for
first
give of
cause
such
will
it
record of
location
the
be
method
is
its
information
enables
a
The
uniform ;
and
and
last
should
prevail
should
always
be
made
makers,
and
by
both,
When
taking of
comparison desirable,
not
and
;
and,
either or
it
may
apparatus
that
the be
would
minute be
or
any
and
liability end
should
the
"
of
test
foot, that
without
that
is be
vided pro-
the
measuring
foot "
allowances
measurer
the
or
neither.
etc., for
statistics,
the
desirable
by
measurements, foot
made
thirdly,
and
pass,
The
of
of
various
accurate
apparatus
system
same
also
preventing
with
this
to
the
position
makers.
be
to
measuring
the
secondly,
the
essential
correct
the
combined
reproduction first
the
characteristics
the
of
of
the
to
thereby
but
must
to
have
possible
the
be
may
system
may
as
part
simplicity,
faithful
error.
the
on
definite
to
it
for
lengths,
that
adaptable
girth-measurements,
misunderstanding a
hands
and
or
;
average
adopted
The
practicably
suited
arranging
shape
measurement.
customer
a
be
to
girths
indicating
purposes,
of
method
record
two
order
and
The
automatically
as
the
to
studying
whose
through
should
for
for
peculiarity
only
not
required
that
persons
for
provision
the
shoes
relations.
must
purpose
must
be
data
and
proportions
and
taken
are
individual
some
ascertaining
foot
the
boots
APPARATUS,
IMPRESSIONS,
DRAFTS,
FOOT:
the
compilation is
accuracy tedious
to
or
more
employ
in
with
used
be
ordinary bespoke may
for
the measurements
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
54
advantage. of
consists
piece
a
the
to take
Size-Stick,used
The
wood
hard
of
of
measurements
boxwood
usually
"
length, "
suitably shaped, and about 18 in. in length. At
is fixed
end
one
an
upright, forming
the
beginning
another
stick, and similar made
stick, which
giving
be
may
the shortest L
front, as varieties
adjusted
length through
Fig. 47.
in
In
detail
exist,those having the
engraved
to the
a
of
brass
to
object to the
body
slide be
on
the
measured,
from
back
construction
insertion
is
upright
47
HQ
of the
to
several which
upon
is
divisions
(thereby preventing shrinkage to or appreciableextent),and that have a screw spring any (enabling the movable required), upright to be fixed when
31
41
"
/a
7
ti\
16
iiriihi
ih
.
hi i \,I
48
being they
among be
may
gives an
the best ; while folded
illustration
are
of
among a
those the
standard
with
made
jointsso
least desirable.
that
Fig. 48
size-stick,with
English
with markings. The uprightsare also marked divisions of inches, enablingheels and springs of lasts to the upper be measured. The English sizes marked on edge between the uprightsare one-third of an inch,and, strangely, notation the fixed upright. The at 4J in. from commence and
French
"
numbering
of the
sizes
continues
in
"
regular
order
up
the
the
when
less than of
body
the
In
would
in
J
in. ;
Feet
that other
in many
flat,and
some
Any part
is
feet should
be made
of
whose
person is
body
should
account
transmitted
bony
"fittingup
will
more
to
the
a
or
they
give
to the
A
Draft
and the
of
single
a
of both
have
as
"
of the in
"
allowances
walking
feet
that
than
one
growing or developing
are
permit
to
"
tion. considera-
last,as thejfeet
whether
may
maker or
foot of
a
as
who
their
growth,
Plan
at least
or
made.
the net
of
the
and
outside
if corns, exact
arch
situation
can
heavy
alone
person.
the
sees
notifythe
It is
foot
must
the
foot,should
conditions
upon
however, preferable,
or
it should
be
whether other
taken, upon
be
points
foot, the
joints;
bunions,
greater degree,
a
to
measurements.
of the
of the
a
to
require different treatment,
usually
"
be
will
positionor location of If properlytaken indicated. inside
measurer.
measurement
foot,it expands
the
idea
feet
age,
made
fleshyfoot
the allowances
which
the
will affect the
person
expand lighter. The
the measurer,
make
the
of the foot should
rest
a
or
be treated
should
and
different
cramping. If the occupation of the person measured carrying heavy weights,it should be taken into when measuring,because when extra weight has to
involves
A
the
by
occupationmust
all allowances
have
without
and
a
corresponding
cases.
requires attention;
mature,
be
and
selection
heavy
a
be noted
and
in such
instep,
arched, for instance, and
are
common,
weight,age, The weight of
in the
made
quite
in. ;
width, -"%in.
between
difference
A
foot
female
length and girth are
thingsmust proportionwith
individual
The
in
respects. Some of
out
The
weight
full
be, length," in. ; joint,
would
these
recorded.
be
be alike
may
the
adult
average
heel, J in. ; bottom
in. ;
instep,J
with
width, J in.
child's foot
a
SHOES.
AND
length,-Jin, ; joint,\
be,
J in. ; heel,J in, ; bottom differences
BOOTS
is measured
foot
it.
on
differences
these
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
56
measured
afford
relative
the maker
square
malformation
be
the
draft
on
be
must
an
positionof
tapering or
indicated
which
the
toes
;
present, or
plan.
IMPRESSIONS.
To
take
the
the
a
flat surface, such of the
weight
measured, placed on held
under
To
the
indicate
convenient, and
as
should
Unless
instep,etc.
plan loses
the
lead
the
of of
a
the
section
To
the
or
to locate
pencil marks the
such
as
positionof joints,
ensure
held the
rightly upline out-
of
in
shown
used, where
Fig. A
is
FIG
50.
triangular-
two
shaped pieces of On
be
foot, a simple piece
be
may
to
major portion
apparatus, as
50,
foot,
49
made
tracing
the
the
about
person
thin
A
indicated, and
pencil being when
the
floor,and
this is done,
usefulness.
its
of
be
(Fig.49),be
BB'
AA,
of
the
be
splitlead pencil* round quite close to the edge of arch the pencil is slanted as far marked. the waist Any special
FIG
prominence
as
the paper.
carried
verticallyis
the foot.
body
size should
of suitable
draft,a sheet of paper
placed upon with
57
wood
face, B, of the
fastened
together at right angles. larger piece of wood, is affixed two
permit a lead pencil to pass to the corner that adjoins the of the apparatus. The edge of the wood the edge of the foot,and point of the pencilis placednear the outline is traced it is carried round as perpendicularly metal
to
grooves
the *
A
to
margin. pencil that
A
separate pencil is
is used
for compasses
answers
used well
for
the
waist.
for this purpose.
MANUFACTURE
THE
58
It will 49
be
observed
is
there
that
in addition
impression of
an
character
the
greatest pressure and
differences
They
be
may
that
prepared carbon
variations
will
dark
To
that
give
produce
and
soak
it in
the
on
The
second
soaking acid
and
soaked allowed faced
to
than
of
aniline upon
dye which
clear
a
give two
^ized),
or
it may
be
kept
for reference
used
be the
foot
good impressions
impression-papermay
and
the
be made
by
may
paper
when
Judson's
which
Another
a
sheet
sheets
they
at the
be
sheet
dyes
answer
time
same
made
that
consists
is stretched is The of
evenly
of
a
a
sheets A
white
paper
plan be
or
more
abroad
frame thin
hinged
for this purpose.
are
(Fig.49).
coated
is
be
to
are
is used
frame
well
likewise
will
transfers, and
be
must
of iron and
the
membrane
used.
of tannic
strong solution
a
top,when, if the impression will result.
be made
the
is laid *
glazed
two
placed on
This *
of
drying
nearly dry.
to
size, upon
indiarubber.
combination
give
taking foot-impressions.It suitable
will
will
may
Impression-Box
permanent
contact
filter-paperand
clean
This
tracingshould
An
of
foot
moist,
or
of
used, chemically
is not
strong solution of chloride dry. When using these
the
and
damp draft
a
that
filter-paperin
allowing
in
plan
the
by dissolvinganiline dye in adding about an equal quantity
some
kind
white
be
maker.
to the
sent
close
may
sheet,or sheets,of white
a
draining and
top.
sheet
foot.
made
then
between
be
the
of
colour.
paper
of which
reversed, one other
and
After
glycerine.
placed
any
solution
a
spiritsof wine, by placing it
distinct
a
A
may
chemical
the first kind, take
(or filtering-paper
for
the
sole-area
impressionson
positions of
impressions, by
investigating
when
ways.
sheets
two
or
their
that
so
elements
of
for many
do
tracing-paper;
prepared
of the
in several
produced
Fig.
on
ground.
useful specially
Foot-Impressions are
outline
the
to
parts of the foot that give
the
to the
SHOES.
AND
foot,which, if taken, shows
the
of the sole and
the
the
BOOTS
OF
to
made
sheet with to
a
take
of an
box the
MEASURING
side of the rubber
inked
When
is removed
frame
the
59
frame
is lowered with
in contact
being
surface
the upper
placedon
the foot
and
place,the
in
sheet
impression. The
FOOT.
THE
the
paper
"
of the membrane.
impression of
an
the
"
the
sole-area
of the foot is found. The
should
that
Measures
taken
be
of
length,girth
are
joints,instep,heel,ankle, and leg,with the height of ankle For long work these (excepting and leg from the ground. the
and
ankle) The
across
joints.
indicated
must
be
taken
round
If the
latter be
the
on
as
the foot
is taken
the
over
the
heel, across taken
annular
throat
the
up
the
round
The
bend
backward
leg,but
of the
nearly
as
taken
"ankle"
the
above
is
at
the
bones.
point
foot.
of the
It should
not
the
possibleover Fig. 51, H).
as
and smallest
The
under
ment keel-measure-
The
(Fig.51, 1). extreme
or
instep-measure is
top of the instep and
ligament (Fig. 21, AL,
ankle-measure
adopted, their positions
draft.
of the foot's arch
the centre
the
required,such
are
;
outside
be
measurements
height of calf,knee, etc. is taken round the foot either straight joint-girth from the inside joints, or diagonally over the inside
calf,knee
and
other
The
part of the
leg
is taken
leg-measure
at
height required,and its height noted from the the round ground. The calf-girth is taken leg at its greatest breadth, and is usually situated from the ground the distance equal to the heel-girth. In any case it should extreme
be noted The and
how
after *
placed draft
the
moving allow
*
The
the the
length the
the
heel, as
positionsor
length
of the
the
with
foot
is usually seated,
person
taken
in
as
then in
the
with
foot,it
Or, better
toes
raised
illustration.
locations to be marked. a
size-stick the
upon
Fig. 51. the
the
by
body being
and
shown
The
"
been
ground
first taken,
measured
draft-plan.
has of
weight
upon is
the
is next
it is taken.
Operation of Measuring.
without is
far up
still,
without This The
will
joint
tape, snugly passing round the
weight
of the
body
is shown
the
by
the
60
foot.
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
To
secure
the
positionon
girththe finger should the
on
inner
be
side of the
FIG
this and be
under
the
carefullytaken,
foot
is in
a
used
hollow and
BOOTS
the
SHOES.
AND
taking the slightbony prominence
instep
to find
a
foot ; the
for
tape passing over
51
of the foot. it is advisable
correspondingposition to
The
must heel-girth
to take
that
it when
which
the
it will
61
ALLOWANCES.
in the boot
when
occupy be
accomplished by lowering
to
the
For
high-heeledwork
essential foot
in the
forward
Allowances
be
to
taking, in addition Length extras, to when
the
the to
from
toes
Length-increases width
of the
allow
bend
shoe
for
to
being-
prevent
in
contact
the
rendered
the
leather
:
the
at
(a) foot
protect
objects;
foot at the
the
as
are
the
too, when
necessary,
full
as
loose
whilst
or
it ; to
on
with of
curve
is not
taken,
measures
is thrown
body
or
are
and
previouslynamed, the elongation of
those
coming
for the
allow
the
to
of the
weight
heel
boot.
made to
it
important matter, wearer,
may
heel-girth.
the
measuring
an
of the
comfort
to the
going
this is
This
on.
raising the
the toes, and
then
required height,and
the heel
with
shoe
or
and toe.
the
joint,so
allowing for the longitudinal contraction caused by the (") Girth increases and decreases, spreadingof the shoe. and give of the upper and accordingto the substance mature or sole, the development of the foot, whether growing. the The following table will show length average the allowances by the sizeover length-measure,taken "
"
-
stick,without
the
of the
weight
Men's
r
3
Women's
j
^
Jb"oys
J
borne
length be the
upon
given
sizeg
in
Men's
by
The
and
girthincreases
weight
draft,the
a
...
and
women's
...
...
|
decreases
"
are
( J^
given below" ioint- girth.
onJinste;_girth. \!n']arger { ^^ I \ larger instep-girth. ^
"n
and Youths', boys', * '
children's
...
allowance
"
"
...
......
body
finch.
/ I in. less on
Men's
of the
"
...
...
last.
the
Women's
Children's
for lasfc
longer for
taking
will be reduced
above
"
for last.
longer
with
measured
foot,as
longer
sizes
sizes
Children's,2 If the
:
1 5
ii
Y
thereon
body
in.
on
62
MANUFACTURE
THE
These
deductions
yielding leather
in
for the
usual
are
made
are
for
be
made
to
up
deduction
goods are
if the
; but
worn
of
stretch
children's
in the
no
the
goods
measure.
be
should
made
for greater addition should be made the juvenile requirements. Bony feet are usually made and feet that are fully up to measure, fleshymay be made on
under boot
adults'
stout,
very
for soft
are
allow
to
increases
SHOES.
AND
measures
strong boots that are stretchy,they would
uppers
the
adult
the
are
The
wear.
lightand
If the
in
and
uppers,
BOOTS
OF
the
a
according
measurement,
to be
Other
and
resorted
of
taking Foot-Measurements One
to.
method L\
is
g|
6\
fastened
together locate
to
tape
one
end, and
the
last, and
the
52
is
addition
an
liable
more
end
of
the
the
other
tape
the
at
first used
end
thickness the
whereas
the
American
C the waist, D the
of the
ankle
it is
last
is to
register
be
to
the of
the
the
heel
and at
the
to
tape.
a
A
round
measure
dependent
the
measured,
practice,this
In
foot
draft-plan
is not
upon
the
lutely being absois usually seat
last
displacingthe position-measure.
illustrated in
G
width
or
same,
wider, thus
method, because
and
the
by placing
point
point opposite the
reliable
the
heel
round
ing measur-
than
error
method
is carried
girth-measureis next taken, the foot and girthrecorded.
The
to
end
and
when
positionson
the
Another previouslydescribed. from the the position-distances one
Ol\
right angles,as Fig. 52, using or registerthe distance from the the girth-measureother to take ments.
recording
of
method
tapes
two
at
necessitates
This
times some-
are
have
to
FIG
a
the
made. Methods
toe
of
substance
the
to
System
Fig. 53, the
of
where
instep,E
measurements
taking A
is the
the
measurements
is
ball,B the half-ball,
F the heel, and long-heel, respectively.The long-heel
the
64
THE
brass and
MANUFACTURE
rod
OF
the other
along
runs
permits
tape is passed round
a
until the
of
base
the
on
The in
the
point is oppositethe
instruments
Heel-Girth
is
Locater
It consists
of
placingon
of the foot.
piece
a
fastened,as C
in
of the
At
C'.
rim
indiscriminately. To base-board
shown
as
positionof from
the
Ellis's Pedistat inches
long
againstwhich
and
the
along
uniformity
thereby ensured. for
useful
mental experi-
piece of apparatus.
rod
brass
coincides with
A
quadrant B, from
A
the
moving
the
allow
the back,
that
locate, is
to
rim
a
A
rod
is
the inside with
marked
exception up
of
down
and
heel-
apparatus, the foot,the
the
use
at
to
movable
placed on
the
is adjusted rod A The Fig. 54. the angle of the rod and heel-girth, in
quadrant, and consists four
When
measurement.
scale, and
instrument, with
the
the
The
it is desired
of which
measure
one
side,and
one
centre
a
guide to prevent
is read
moved
large enough
Fig. 54.
pivot round
edge
to the
pointer is
simple and,
a
wood
of
degrees, completes the the
fro.
54
FIG
corner
to and
box,
tape,and at the made, thus locating
the foot is
a very especially,
purposes
to
to
sides of the
of the
centre
all made
are
the last and
measuring
made
both
to travel
foot this
SHOES.
AND
is pointeron the chart a mark chart the longitudinal position of
The
is
edge of
jointed pointer
a
BOOTS
wide.
the heel is
of
a
At
recorded.
platform,A (Fig.55),twelve one
placed.
end
Outside
of this
is
the borders
a
block, of the
65
APPARATUS.
MEASURING
platform are two grooves, EE, along CO, may slide. The edges BB, pillars,
which
two
upright
outside the grooves
C
FIG.
55
ELL/5
FIG
EE,
are
numbered
marked from
with the
PED/STAT.
56
inches, sub-divided heel-block.
The
into
one-eighths also pillarsare
66
THE
MANUFACTURE
from
graduated, dating the
instrument
milled movable the
the
that
fro
and
rule, ccy is provided with shaded
The
centre.
foot made
SHOES.
portion is
the
S
either
section
a
of
usage
is the
pillarsAA.
scale
a
The where
by Fig. 56,
to
moves
AND
platform level.
is illustrated
screw
BOOTS
OF
of
A
side from of
cast
a
a
are instep. The pillarsAA brought along the groove EE (Fig.55) until opposite the positionof the top of the instep, the scale and the length indicated on BB The rule cc (Fig.56) is now taken, (Fig.55) noted.
and
the
height AA,
starred of
the
and
edges
centre
under
the
of
outside
the
distances
distances.
Plans
thus
and
and
of
highest part, and the the pillars rule noted on
"star"
the
from
the
inside
respectivelyas inside point of the highest part of
The be
accurately of the
Elevations
this It
necessary.
the
put over edge of the
pillarsrecorded
instepwould
taken,
the
across
may
in
the be
of in
sometimes
leg are
work
orthopoedic several
the
sions. dimen-
three
by
and
foot
case
taken
located
and
is
but
ways,
the
simplestplan is to take two hinged boards, as illustrated in Fig. 57, and is to be that fasten to the board used of drawing-pins or a as base, by means tacks, a sheet of The
paper.
placed of
this
on
the
draft
foot is
outline
foot
other
board
in
position
the
is
brought
as
illustrated,and
various
marked.
The
girth-measures
are
taken
may
to
locations be
tened fasvided. pro-
paper
the
board, and
positions or
the
the hook
outline
leg
taken.
moving
pinned
and
a
Without
The
57
portion and
paper
by
FIG
now
is
upright tion eleva-
an
of the foot where
marked
on
the the
DRAFTS.
and
plan the
elevation.
be imitated Some
the
as
transverse
tear
registered. ankle
and
An
The
and
joint
past
strip in place of girths,and by a slight paper
heel
slip records
paper
instep
good plan
a
the
recording
is the
have
to
the
taking
would
ensure
which
the
printed spaces and
sheet
should
be
"
measure
may
for
systematically the
printed
the
method
if
carefullyfollowed, the various hands through uniform adopting the same
and
measurer
"
or
peculiarities. On
which,
measures,
the
lower
spoke printed (or purchase) "bethat give on side space one
"
sheets
the
joint, and
times some-
respectively.
measurements
of
side
is also
measure
second
or
and taking plan-drafts,
of
times some-
are
leg measure.
measurement
other
heel
described
of the
edge
instep measurements is
height of
edge, the joint,instep,and
other
taken, termed
It
the
to
tracings.
methods
taking
one
additional
second
the
for in the
the
added
be
may
that
so
substituting a
for
on
platform
screw,
in
variations
tape-measure
a
allowed
and
made, such
for
little
A
base, regulated by
may
67
pass
system. Classed
foot
Standard
could
be
classed, and
measurements
of
measurements
were
of to avoid
Measures.
the
a
the
length,1 J Add
size 4's. on
prepared giving
classes.
adopted, and
the
misunderstandings so For
sizes ; bottom the
If
allowances
with
common
instance, a standard in state
-width,
3
of repose in. ;
for
deduction
classes fixed allowances called
(say)
C
boots, with
be
"
would would
letter
or
be
be made.
foot,it could a
not
be
so
the feet
for
it would
stances sub-
possible standard
foot-measure would
be
in. ;
joint,8
lightmaterial," in. on joints,givingjoint7| in. and instep 8J
"
standard
length-allowanceof 2^ sizes,this
Deduct
material, the
and
table
various
lady'sfootmeasuring
8J in.
a
well-formed
average
materials, etc.,agreed upon,
last measurements. for
The
"
(say), instep,
would
give
instepand -Jin. in.
If for
made, and
heavy
for
Supposing this stamped
figure denoting the
on
other were
the lasts allowance.
68
MANUFACTURE
THE
BOOTS
OF
This, if properly carried out, would
possessed this be of
would
foot
suitable
without marked
now
girths 0 to 6.
fitting." The
"3
usually
are
They
termed
fitting. fitting.
2, Smart
fitting.
4, Full
or
feet, and
due
the
arched low
is
the
wide
difference the
various
difference
larger
fitting the
the
degree
than
the
do
vary
so
to
in
the
and
In
the
required in
be
foot
slim
or
of
appearance
instep and joint
foot
than
is
found
difference.
developed is
posterior as
an
have
to
appear
fittingthe less instep measures,
there
of
provided for,
less
in
and
wide
greater
a
rise.
in the
the
This
well-developedor
a
have
instep, hence much
slim
in
development
the
greater the
"rise."
is termed
foot, the joint is found not
of
a
decrease
or
would
between
joint
the
between
smaller
foot
greater in the The
fitting,but
differences
gives the
broad
a
foot.
numbered
are
the
stages
difference
The
instep.
measurements
in
the
jointsundeveloped, and instep,while
and
"
must shape-characteristics girths. For instance, a narrow
the
widths
in
increase
an
of
reason
the
to
the
under
fitting. full fitting.
decides
be
merely
The
in existence
:
the
besides
a
XX
or
joint-girthusually
fittingsis
has
full
extra
wide
6, Extra
not
foot,
fitting. fitting.
5, Wide
circumference.
follows
as
1, Slim
3, Medium
fittingshould
difference
that
of
kind
is found
as
fittings,"and
"
also named
are
0, Narrow
The
such
denomination,
shoe
or
to be
measures
who
person
boot
a
to suit the
measurement
causing a largevariety of
without
the
enable
obtain
always
to
SHOES.
AND
Feet
anterior
portion. The be
based
Principlesupon are:
which
first,that
equal length throughout various
as
the
a
Scale
the
respectiveranges.
should
length-measures are
scale
girth-measurements be
of Measurements
of
should
the
equal throughout
their
(J in.),so
MEASUREMENTS.
For increase
should
be
sizes
The
in the
the
greater difference
a
this
cases
with
another
that
in
rule
two
joint-girth
secutive con-
the
used
be
not
joint are
should
both
greater
exist
in the
rise
applied coupled quite accurate; viz.
been
is not
of
half
the
one-half
the
rise.
length "
of
Alden's
there
adult
an "
is based
scale
this rule.
Thirdly,
that
size and
size,the difference between
"
must
has
that, however,
last
a
be
upon
girths
two
in infants'.
than
some
should
any
range.
however,
as instep-girth,
measurements
In
other
any
joint-girth
instep increases.
Secondly, that of adult
between
same
same
amount,
same
joint-girthand
than
the
for
adopted
amount
between
as
measurements
for
the
instance,
69
in
i.e. rise "
sizes, but
in
from
"
the
girth between joint and instep
the smaller
from
to the
"
would
in
be,
rise
sizes, the say,
-^ in.
;
between
whereas
in
larger creases de-
rise
the fitting measurements smaller to the largerfitting. "
instance,
measure
of
measurements
increases
"
the
the
For
the
adult
an
the
infants'
it would
only be, say, -|in.,with a graduation between, In fittings, the rise in adults' would be, say, " in. ; in a in smaller be less,say -fin.,and larger fittingit would fittingsit would be greater, say -|in.
Fourthly,
the
in infants'
difference
should
between
be less than
If the difference
A
if the
be, say,
scale
of
measurements
will
be
proper
respectively,with a
reliable
table
proportioned feet.
jointand jointof
that to
be
the
given
the will
measurements
in., the infants' would
~
suitable
shape
"
fitting
in adults'.
between
in adults'
"
be, say,
to
obtained
the
infants'
required suitable
of
for
in.
feet, and
and for
-^
ments require-
these
development
alterations be
contain
"
fittings
"
adults'
fittings, average
-
MANUFACTURE
THE
70
of
Examination
An
Use, will
show
the
Tables
that
there
now
in
the
requisite conditions. and
many,
each
uniformity or
manufacturer.
a
conformable
to
tables
be
may
graduation," The
the
that
decrease
or
made
both fitting,
for
awkward
used, but
are
be
cannot
for
where
adhered
this
the
two
sizes
made
complete
scale
this
that
a
rule
proper The
of
would made
are
are
only
a
the
be
in
at
same
give
The
that
unit
the
an
for a
given
below
is the
small
MEN'S.
most
sizes
system is
size to
the
too
duced pro-
obviate
girths
of
places. Again, based
used
a
upon
required for
measurements
one
the
small, and
be
of
joints
last. scale
inaccuracy
range
required
various not
easy
Its
scale, and
the
increase
joint girths.
of too
upon
and
difference
fittingscould
would
is
based
size
short
very
irregular
"
and
avoided.
measurements
method
this, "breaks"
is
are
This
to.
great, consequently by
method
larger run
a
and
instep
various
inch
an
not
are
etc.
be
size
between
this
when
of
quarter
a
to
that
district
a
The
method/'
are
so
use
principle.
supposed
fractions
noticeable
so
of
be
used, and
is not
difference
claimed
advantage is
a
in
scales
Alden's
is
System
should
fittingand
as "
of
-^-in.system,"
"
grouped
Quarter-inch
rule
all the
England
in
scales
the
with
comply
standard,
own
in
|-in.method,"
"
his
first essential
the
used
scales
even
Nearly
of Lasts
that
few
are
adopts
found
SHOES.
AND
of Measurements
The
person
is not
BOOTS
OF
used
"
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
72
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
CHILDREN'S.
The the
would
above
"
inch.
women's
and
Men's
be
(2-5) and
Youths'
instep, for
and
joint
between
difference
rise, or
girls'(11-1) Boys' (11-1) and girls'(7-10) Boys' (7-10) and children's (1-6) ...
.
SCALE
OF
.
BOTTOM-WIDTHS. Seat.
Tread.
Men's
7
size
Women's
size
(3 fitt.)
4 "
Youths'
size
2J
4 "
The size
tread
to be
and
from For
increased
decreased
or
to fitting fitting by ^
women's
Seat "
a
be
difference
6, 7, 8, and and
and
termed
1 ^ ,'g maintain
to
"
"
"
simplicity of the
obviate
making
of these
irregular. One
of
"""in.
9 ;
-/G in-
i in. between
1's,and
^n-"
by ^
inch.
dimensions, several methods
same
in instep-girths
^
To
"
notation, and
may
The
in.
in- f"r men's.
(sizeto size) to fitt.) (fitt. (size to size) to fitt.) (fitt.
Irregular Gradations.
that
size to size
to
"
"
the
from
size
:
Tread
girths of
from
decreased
or
fittingto fittingby "
from
by ^ in.,and
seat
increased
be
to
the this
between between
two
adopted
the
joint-girthsof
the
the
10, 11, 12, and
13 ;
increase the
of
systems has
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and
scale
J in. between
are
surement mea-
1's and
~f$ in. 8's.
between The
8.
the
The 6's
best method
MEASUREMENTS.
upon
this
is to make principle from size 1 (4J-in.)to
-f6 in.
the rest of the to
with
size
1
tread
scale for
(8| in.)for and
seat
2 3 4
5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12 13 1 2
3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10
1
2 3
4 5 6 7 8
9 10 II 12
a
difference
size
males, and females.
measurements
MALE
1
73
SCALE
10
j\ The
in
of joint-girth
(7J in.)and in. from scale
: "
(3 fitt.).
is
i in. for
size 1
(4J in.)
given
below
THE
74
MANUFACTURE
SCALE
FEMALE Sizes.
13 ...............
"
1 -
2
.........
7
.........
1\
...............
3
7T36 7| 7|
.........
4
7|
...............
5
81
.........
8}
...............
8^
.........
throughout
the
in three
10 .........
......
10
.........
E .........
Ninth
the
there
as
one,
from
standard size
:
and
......
......
12| 13f 12| 13$
3" 358, 3" 3$
......
......
......
......
is
measurements the
in
foot's
gradation,and The
development.
is ladies'
taken
are
and
3"
......
the
measures
joints
......
insteps
be
would
2
Gtt.
3 fitt.
6 fitt.
5 fitt.
4 fitt.
............
7$
......
7|
......
7|
......
8J
......
8$
......
............
8!
......
8ff
......
8|
......
8^
......
8|
......
difference
of
fittingand
f
in. is made the
fittingfor
between
joint
size and
83 8?
and
instep
size surement. mea-
different
the
the
six
rise
for
foot, being f in. in the
one
fitting. Its objection is adults
and
Alden's
of
Method
of
that
fittingand J it gives the
in. in same
infants.
practicable one, measure
for
give the rises arrangement would fittingssuitable to the requirements of
This the
as
"
Joints
A
9| 10f
for the the
the
1 fitt.
Instep
......
"
3
12|
......
......
breaks
no
Bottom.
Long-heel.
......
arranging "
are
which for
4, and
follows
of
suitable
girths are
9|
96
System
E.
10
......
size
standard
......
......
......
fittingsare
13
9g
......
recognized
is the
......
......
2i|
The
9
9
10
.........
good
......
7
.........
.........
are
......
9" 8{j 9|
......
7 .........
21 2}f
Instep.
8|
......
D
.........
widths, C, D, and
7
.........
2{i
Below
Ball.
2T"6 2" '2fc
.........
industry.
of numbered.
C
2|
.........
last
Size.
a
.........
Measurements
American
10's men's
The
2|
.........
Standard
instead
Width
.........
9 .........
American
Width
.........
.........
81
...............
Width
2ft
.........
.........
7
7's and
.........
.........
81
8 ...............
"
lettered
II l|f Ig
21 .........
7|
...............
The
Seat.
Tread.
Instep.
6{i
SHOES.
AND
(3 fitt.) (continued).
Joint.
.............
BOOTS
OF
and
arranging consists
girths that
has
in been
the
measurements
establishing a
found
is
a
standard
by experience to
MEASUREMENTS.
be suitable and 4's in
and
for the
other
of the
end that
measurement,
there
as
is
system of
sizes
are
is maintained. to the
9|
The
women's
is the
other
This
the
women's
a
this
smaller
is size
length is
standard
4, the
size
selected
size 4
these
obtain two
between
J
and
To
4 .
to the
adult
is added
infants'.
The
to
the
adult
complete the
"
the
child's.
2",joint-girth |,rise
2j,tread-width Women's " "
4, joint-girth
4, instep-girth 4, rise 4, tread-width ...
of which this
Tread.
8^
2f
5
m
differences
between of sizes
^ infittings, and onelarger fittings, the insteps, obtain To one-half this, i.e.^, to by ^
in. for
each
infants' bottom-widths.
SCALE.
Fitt. 3.
21, instep-girth
reference
scale of
is increased
ALDEN'S
length
14J, the number
the
adult, and
tread
by
,
for fitting larger,and one-half,322,
Children's
sub-division
Instep.
into
joints for
half this, i.e. g9^ for 372 in.
the
"
sizes the
is divided
extremes
2
is added
the intermediate
expression
and 2^ (4}| in.),
7| 4{|
Children's,size 2 } To
the
scale. girls'
and
Joints.
Women's,
part of the
practicably utilize, of
accuracy
the
equal parts
many
it obviates
correct,
between
latter
difficult to
standard
One-half
in.
difference as
be
to
system will be illustrated
productionof
The
be
time
same
found
into
as
made, another
be
to
has
intervening.
highly approved,
the
at
about
subdivided
fractions,that would
while
is
scale
intermediate
respective girths is
men's
9J jointsand 9J instep 8J instep for the women's.
experience
the
selected,and
is
size 8's in
as
be
would
7J jointsand
men's, and
the
At
and
women's,
is taken
This
correct.
75
Fitt. 4.
i
Fitt. 5. | Difference.
76
THE
To to
MANUFACTURE
the
construct
subdivide
done mark
as
"
sizes
the extremes.
Through and
make and
Iff
Connect
of
the
two
where
will
the
give
line
(\ in.)as
2
SHOES.
scales it is necessary which
14J, numbered
the
crosses
widths
for
several
all the
obtained.
being
were
points (If| and 2", Fig.58) by
it
to 4.
respectively
4, measure
tread- widths
2J
perpendicular lines,
erect
J and
it
upon
interveningbetween
are
are
be
may
(Fig. 58),and
there
divisions
extremes,
two
AB
there
case
the
AND
measurements,
a
these
if
2f,
line,and
of the
In this
each
these
completion
Draw
:
many
BOOTS
various
the
follows
as
OF
straight
a
perpendicular lines
sizes,measured
it the
from
line AB. The paper,
widths
are
separate stripbeing used
a
An
front
joint,instep,and Scale
Improved
piece,side by
measures.
substance
for each
of Measurements
side
They are goods upon,
marked
is
English and arranged for lasts to should
be
slip of
a
fitting.
with
and
on
drawn French
length-
make
increased
the
on
mediumdecreased
or
and \ in. for stouter lighter work respectivelyfor The girth-measurements,and ^ in. for bottom-widths.
by
scale contains has
an
all the
advantage
six
and fittings,
(4J
in.
of
the
length) and
vital
principlesof
expressed outside
size 4
a
dimensions.
measurements
(9f
scale,and
correct
in. length), thus
It is are
given
for
in
size
1
givingsixteen
sizes between.
SCALE
OP
MEASUKEMENTS
FOR
LASTS
(Medium
Work).
Joints.
Difference
per
size.
ME
AS
UREMENTS.
77
s
"*
0
V3"l
CD
00
QV3MX
78
THE
OF
MANUFACTURE
BOOTS
AND
SHOES.
Bottom-Widths.
Size 4.
Total
difference.
Difference
per
size.
r8
If
Insteps.
Fittings.
Size
1.
Difference
Size 4. the
girths.
persize-
1_?l8f.
pTs:
A
tfeate.
8o
THE
German
MANUFACTURE
OF
The
Measurements. "
for
three
fitting.
BOOTS
measures
AND
given
SHOES.
below
are
CHAPTER
SOLE-SHAPES"LAST
IV.
SECTIONS
MAKING
LAST
"
LAST
AND
FITTING.
The
Production
in the of
of boots
making
construction
the
considerable
two
lasts
suit
already
the
to
It
either
"
in
that
purpose
to
to
a
be
may
fit to
be
It is to of
remarks
the
foot, besides
Sole-shapes
existence, or lasts
important operation requiresa knowledge
of the
skill.
particular pattern.
a
latter
artistic
enable
to
very
proportion
purposes
provide shapes made
and
a
shoes.
and
degree of
for
prepared or
Sole-Shapes is
of
this
A chapter will be chieflydevoted. sole-shapeshould represent the sole-area of
foot, and
a
that
it
will
consistent to the
should
allow,
with
"
functions between
foot and
a
passing an the
contour
of
but
it does
not
formed into
or
a
free
action
The
ence differof
the
impression should
be
A
outline
or
is taken
draft
upright pencil round
the
tracingmade the
on
the
contact
or
the
margin
convey
its dimensions.
by
possible
as
foot.
draft
sole-area
and
area
far
as
of the a
constructed
so
fashion,"
understood.
well
be
portion presses
the A
paper of
the
actual real
of the upon
the
a
by foot,
gives foot ;
FIB
sole-
sole-area
plantar
is that
surface
flat surface.
To
59
which
that
comes
obtain G
is
the
82
THE
MANUFACTURE
latter,an or
impression
plan.
and
a
the
foot
and
the
Fig.
draft of
the
position of heel
the
for the
suit
not
be either
To
sole-area.
made
be
must
of the
body
for
be correct
one
height of
The
others.
of soles.
or longitudinal
should
locate,and
pencil used),
weight
considerably the shapes
will
impression the margin of
the
may
draft
the
as
an
real
the full
sole-shapethat
Proportions may
former
of
sole, allowance
foot when
A
well
as
made
indicates
foot, may
affects
Sole
The
it.
upon
SHOES.
line will show
being
of the
of the
taken
illustration
The
portion
width
for extension is borne
foot.
allowance
dotted
be
gives an
the
(due
ascertain
the
59
should
AND
BOOTS
OF
transverse.
the
recorded
be
same
lengths are taken, i.e. on the size-stick principle. The transverse proportionsare the widths of the various located ments positions. The principalplacesof taking measureas
way
are
the
"
width
the of
the
shape,
waist;
expression
relation In
an
the
end,
the
of
location
the
inside
positionsnot
for
instance, the tread anterior
position as seat
heel
of
the
sole-
identical
not
to
positions in
from is
is situated
two-
from size-stick)
a
heel, five-sevenths
hinder
afford
only
widths, but they also indicate
The
by
from
the
the fore
these
part the
mid-way
of
the
heel
foot.
one-sixth
between
the
seat.
These
of the
joint
measured
if measured
or,
of
length.
foot, the
length (as
of the
of the
length
similar
of
part
locations
the
to
whole
and
The
toe.
length from the The is distanced seat, similarly, of the foot'slength. The waist tread
narrowest
numerically expressed is
average of the
toe
the
and
foot's entire
to the
sevenths
of
this
seat ; the
tread ;
joint,termed
the
at
proportioned
are
shape, and
of bottom
heel, called
measurements
the
width
the
portion
of
heel
the
part
to be
will
mark
the boot
marks
or
of
shoe
foot
line line
raised, thus
rata
pro
as
is
for
regulating
important
foot, which
the
correct so
other
relativelythe
shortened the
place
a
as
the heel
features
of
contact
alters
give
the
its
enabling is raised.
positionof putting on to
;
the
greatest support
SOLE-SHAPES.
to the
posteriorregion of
line
perpendicularly descending from the seat should pass through the centre of the heel, and will guide the design of a heel, preventing surplus "lifting"being given, thus reducing the weight of the hinder portion of the shoe, while giving its legitimate the
A
foot.
support. In
length the
be noted
must
the
over
these
applying
length of
position,in
positions to and
say two
"
the
relation
FIG.
joint,which
inside
from the
In
the
the
sevenths seat
ab
of the
of the made
body. over
The
last,of the
the
one-third
difference
length
inside
length ab
of ab
from
distance
the foot's line
the
supposed to
The
this
60
The
entire
d is one-sixth is
No.
indicates
size-stick.
trianglecOd
alter
60.
about
be
will
of
the
tance dis-
toe.
diagram
shown, where
by
would
of
allowed
are
This
last.
length
the
to
half sizes
a
for the
foot
additional
last,the
a
below, ACDB,
joint from
the
between the
is the
c
is
the
heel
illustrate
length for
of the
a
graphically
foot
end
b.
The
transmitted
and
L
measured
situated
toe
end
the
is
two-
The
a.
dotted
weight
is the addition
last-length. proportion
of the
sole
W
related, and longitudinally positionsituated equallydistant between the
of
this
foot
another
line
is
one
proportions of
the
last; and
of
the
last
the
toe
end
inside
joint
length from
three-fourths
averaged
at
variation
due
to the
waist
The
W
Effect
The
of of
kind
of the
Fig. 61,
where
line
S
last,sort of work, sewrounds,
as
of
Heel
sole-area
studied
best
be
alteration "
the of
the
line of contact
bearing
of the
the
mean
straight line the
the
portion
of
"
fore-partof and ab
the
foot.
A
foot
in
portion,and yet
the
inside
with
in
the
the
the
one
; but
here
upper
have
may
does
The
a
toe
toe.
By
great
position of necessarily
the not
which
may
of
foot
the
characteristics
the
it is not
margin
incline
trates illus-
foot, the
a
margin
the
of the
intended
to
border
of
or
straightform
sole-area
cipal prinline
the
from
of
by
foot, and
Fig. 59,
taken the
is
and
only
this
joint
In
impression
sole, but
of the
to define
sole.
indicates
the
of
foot,and
the
Meyer "-shapedsole
the
inside
the
it is understood
straight inside form,
of the show
line
"
joint-lineof draft
a
anterior
the
upon
"
of
is varied
Foot
taking impressionswith various height heels. effects are the change of position of contact
to
etc.
the
can
is
etc.
seat, but
of the
at
subject
is
tread, but
the
the
raising
outline
marginal
last-
the
of
The
tread.
or
work, such
of
the
that
noted
illustrated in
is three-fourths
the
accordingto
the
shows
that
T.
bottom-width,
equals the
T
Below
D.
one-third
is located
proportionsare
width
The
C and
be
it will
waist
the
is
TJSH,
drawn,
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
84
or
line
shape -in connecting
inwards
from
SOLE-SHAPES.
the
line
ab, Fig.59. the
showing where
the
fact
be
line
observed
ab.
observed
This
when
of
toe
to do.
with
the
boot
It also the
from
the
line
a
will
after
does
gives
inside
line
the
give
of
reason
a
the
fore
ab, Fig. 62,
the
the
from The
the
foot
If of and
a
the it
to
designed inside
the
to
upon
the the of
corner
supposed why shoes that are designed part tapering slightlyaway fit the
toe
as
it is
comfortable,
are
do
and
not
in
latter
Fig. 62
fact
to
last towards
illustrates
the
be
must
alluded
last made
of the
understood,
to, it is
supposed the sole-shape recedes the line ab, Fig. 62. line
of contact
for
a
heel.
block, say
foot, the is
It
misplaced.
be
of the
feather
no
PI 6. 63
in the
margin
line cd
foot with
angle
an
e
however, that that
plan,
or
explanation
an
FIG .62
cause
makes
ce
wearing,
not
draft
the
sole-shapes are
Meyer principle, that, the
clear,Fig. 62 is given,
without sole-impression
it will
with
this
make
To
found
half-inch, is placed under line
by
of
contact
experiment
will
move
that
it
the
heel
forwards, amounts
to
86
an
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
of
average
for
-^-8in.
BOOTS
SHOES.
AND
J in. that
each
is
foot
the
raised. A of the the
the
heel,and the
has
toe
great
the
in the
be reduced is
Fig. 63 the
amount
For
each
A
is
practicedo
designed
been
medical
Sole-Shapes
due
side
of
a
without
line
central
of
is thus
"
the
for both
same
shape
this
upon
Sole-Shapes upon inside
AB). very
should
into
be
the
expected.
ideal
shape
the
account
comes
line from from
It makes
for
full
uncomfortable
is
halves
the
each
on
of the
seat-line, It is
shape.
constructing sole-shapesfor of a illustration rights and
plan. the
joint to toe, coincidingwith point of
peculiar twisted wear
the heel
or
seat
form, that
if the boot
with
constructed
Meyer's Principle are
to
The
side.
"
an
the inside a
through
passes
seat- width
principle adopted "straights."Fig. 64 is
that
tested, and
been
that
taking
that
the
the
the
fact
ideas,
be produced Camper's Theory may bottom-width, or tread, on either
follow
to
one-half
that
lefts
the
from
of these
Some
results that
to
by equally dividingthe
toe
they
of the foot.
action
so
several
are
advocated
been
have
men,
the
give
not
have
of shoe.
to the best form
is often
failure
There
and constructinga sole-shape,
of
chieflyby
advanced
line AB.
the
in.
the theories that
as
showing
raised,the distance
is
foot
"
upon
to time
has
^
methods
based
This
of the
raised.
line EC
from
away
and
ground,
the amount
constructing Sole- Shapes.
of
well-known
in
travelled
has
line
middle
the
this ; the
illustrate
that
effect is observed
same
proportionfor
a
toe
The
any
observed
the
the foot is upon
J in. the heel
Methods
time
to
without
surface
towards
moves
skeleton.
given to
the
from
away
it
phalange of
the
it.
level
a
view
plantar
raised,it will be
be
when
is raised
if the heel
line round
upon
is elevated
toe
it may
put
great toe
of the foot XY
are
is
foot
the
to
foot, p. 29, where
dotted
a
made
be
now
of the
skeleton
If
as
should
reference
or
shoe
line
(Fig.65,
is has
usually a
heel.
88
the
THE
MANUFACTURE
surface
upper
gives
idea
an
OF
of
AND
The
toes.
SHOES.
illustration,Fig. 66,
sole-shape designed
a
theory applied to Hannibal's
the
of
BOOTS
the
upon
foot.
a
a System of constructing sole-shapeis
than
one practicable
either
Camper's or Meyer's.
line is drawn,
the
is
seat
placed Two
side
of
drawn,
are
line
the
ab
one-sixth
inside
of the
entire
and
To
from
away
into four
obtained, and
line
is situated
ss
from
length the
Through
the
outside
from
and
by measuring
adults',and
sevens
heel
this
cd.
This
the
other
data
by
these
the
points
tread- width
side the
the
of
of line
the
shape
and
its
cd, the
seat
width
is
the
tread, and
remainder
divided
equal parts,one-fourth being placed on the inside the outside joint. the remaining three-fourths on
joint,and of the
either
on
length-
length (seeFig. 69).
the
ascertain
relation taken
to the
portion
a
the
that proportion(longitudinally) in relation
of
length-linecd.
obtained
obtained
size
width
If in. respectivelyabove
are
central the
The
is
positionsof
for size
only
sizes
The
joint-lineare
1 in. and
cd
line
drawn.
The
d.
end
is
of the
more
and (the seat-width), completed (Fig.67).
r
parallelogramopqr centre
the
a
A
to
parallelto
line,through q and The
length
equally divided, each
on
lines
the
in
equal
designed (cd,Fig. 67).
be
to
are
Meyer
these
toe
may
points the shape be
varied
has
suit
to
to
the
pass, and
the
requirements
shape of the
case.
The
Pass-May Method
extension
of Hannibal's
particularsand or
shapes
to
of
system, and
proportions be
designing a that
reproduced
with
the
sole-shape method
enable
a
a
certain
is
an
furnishes
certain amount
shape of
exactness. In
illustration of Fig. 68 an this on shape is given, constructed
a
two-fittinginsole-
method.
A
line, AB,
SOLE-SHAPES.
is
equal
drawn,
in
length to 9" in. long.
women's
fours, i.e.
into
equal parts, and
two
the
size
Divide
required, the
say
seat- width
moiety each side, Through ab draw tral parallel to the cen-
mark a,
89
a
b.
lines
line AB
is next six
into
The
AB.
divided
be
to
line
and
equal parts,
through the divisions thus made (1, 2, 3, 4, and 5) lines are drawn at right angles to the central line, and
parallel
ab
and
of
the
from
width
The
cd.
is subtracted
seat
the full width
tread, and divided
lines
the
to
the
into
of the
difference four
equal
parts (see Fig. 68, NOP). One
of the
divisions
point indicated that
passes the
towards marks
the
from
measured
now
is
by the line through 2,
left-hand, and
the
positionon the joint (see W, Fig.
inside
68). Below line
db
"": in. 1
point mark
Join
r
the
on
(for size 4) W"0.
On
this
o
slanting
line, from
mark
off the
tread
NP,
and
full thus
W,
width
of
obtain
R draw Through a line parallelto db. At a of f in. (for size distance R mark M. vide Di4) from equally 3 and 4, and
R.
waist-line, which
draw to
be
made
three-fourths
F/G
6?
is of
the
width
of
seat.
One-
90
THE
MANUFACTURE
eighteenth marked
OF
of
from
BOOTS
the
length (or
A,
and
a
line
AND
one-third drawn
SHOES.
of
Al)
is to also
across,
be
one-
QFLEHQTH
i
5.
jp o
I
K !?
.
Of
FIG.
68.
LADIES
twenty-fourth marked
from
FOURS
FITTING
SHAPE
length (or one-fourth
of the
B, and
TWO
a
line drawn.
LEN6TH
Join
of
5B)
Ic and
to
be
Id, and
SOLE-SHAPES.
where 5a
it
and
the
crosses
56, and
mark
in
point X, and lines join KB, mark
waist,
Y
eighteenth
one-
Divide
/.
S to
be
and
where
it
C, v, TV How
and
other
any
and
To
in. inside
f
in. in
If
in. in
the
line
the
where
line
it cuts
JL
Sizes of such
Pass-May that
a
in. inside
V, Z, Y, 0, W, K,
Hannibal's
arbitrarymeasure
through
crosses
S, R, M, X, H,
e,
dotted
complete,join with
Proportionsfor other
1 in. and
-j^,in.
67), or and
the
join AV, 0.
equal parts With
the it
Join
ee.
two
Tt.
where
points A,
in. inside/,B,/, ^
to obtain as
the
curve
of
passes
and
through 4, mark Z; and the line through 3, mark suitable
into
one-fourth
join WB,
;
Tt
line mark
e, A.
ments measure-
method
(Fig. (Fig.68), longi-
method
is measured
60. .
tudinatty. the
Draw
size that
from
A
the
mark
in
the
off
draw
line, AD
a
line, and AE A
"
in.
other
(Fig.68)"
size.
Let
(Fig. 69), equal
of
System of this
shaped a
length
in
Sole-
and
upon,
such
in., If in.
1
as
AC
denote
in
length
Join
requiredto
it is
that
DB
Now
this. the
to
with
toes
section. that
are
Construction,based
Shape
in
Fig. 60, It will
will conclude
also
usually called
to
is decided
a
show for
be
CE.
the
tion descrip-
tbe
how may
upon
tbe
size
dotted
through C, parallelto DB, draw the line from measured A is the required proportion.
Principles illustrated
upon
f
proportions
proportion is being sought.
whose
The
some
(Fig. 69) equal
arbitrary measure
(Fig.67),-j%in.,and ascertain
AB
line
a
various
produced
system. Fig.
70
illustrates
the
construction
of
a
shape
for
THE
92
a
MANUFACTURE
OF
size 4, fitting 2
women's
page), and Data
is used.
-jV in.
for
given "
each
(a) |
in.
AND
(from the
in Nos. The
BOOTS
scale
1, 2, and line
of
SHOES.
facing the titletoe for \\ in. heel.
3
contact
elevation
of
the
foot; (6) inside
heel
the
line
joint
"
of
the
heel
of the
seat,* and
one-third
(e)
of the
;
situated either
line XY
;
is proportioned
outside
the
of the
joint-width
line
either
on
XY
in
the
four-ninths
width the
line
inside,and
is situated
and
of
the
to
side, in-
remainder
to
outside. To
construct.
line, XY, the
to
foot
to
to
entire
the
of the
side of the
proportion of the
tion eleva-
is three-fourths
either
two-thirds
the
-|in.
central
waist
side
vels tra-
on
(d) the
tread
toe
action"
distant
side of the
or
the
is
seat
equally
waist;
from
towards
each
of the
XY,
the
muscular
in. for
(c)
of
the
to
inwards "line
forward
moves
size
in.).
Make
"
a
equal in length required (say 9f
From
X
mark
off the
added length allowance over the foot (2i sizes),B, Fig. From
70.
sevenths 0.
B of
two-
measure
and
BY,
Divide
BY
into
equal portions, and mark
shape
*
This
be modified
proportion to suit
the
varies kinds
in
sewrounds,
of work.
from
Y
is for, say,
in. heel,therefore 0
six
S. The
FIG. 70.
mark
towards
B
mark
the
1-|
above
point T,
shooting-boots, etc., and
must
SOLE-SHAPES.
obtain
-|in.
in. for each
allowing ^
distance
the
W,
93
heel
elevation,i.e.""".
TS
between
is
equally divided.
lines Through Y, S, W, T, and X draw will be angles to XY, and the position-lines for
waist, and
seat,
taking is
tread.
equally divided,
line
waist-line is measured
t and
the
is
M
From
dotted
A
obtain
To
point
*.
Join
Divide
K.
mark
the
Fig. 70), and 1', 2',
3'.
1'
the line
crosses
the
which
No.
*K
will
six
draw
lines
that
to
the
line
the
be the
toe-line
and
K,
from
2
to
and
from
1
will
toe
line 2K
to
K
it
where
gives
the
Similarly, point through
is the
will
either
X
and
pass.
3' passes where pass, and To point for No. 3 toe to pass.
toe
XP
equal parts (1, 2,
parallelto XP,
1
R".
number
is drawn No.
Join
equal parts, and
K
1
for
3, divide
three
point
through t. each % in.
8
crosses
One-
and
marked.
it
into
from
line 2' passes 2
where
into
which
point through where
or
1, 2,
X*
from
and
w,
w'.
t\
-| in.
Nos.
the
One-third
towards
from
X
tread
joint. through
towards
is drawn
the
as
outside
70.
W
W
from
R
also XH
through 1',2',3'
from
the
joint,and
waist-line
(here f-in.),and *"',and
far of the
diagram, Fig. put
side
as
the
the
from
towards
line
Join
form
to
line, M,
toes
each
inside
t'r is marked
measured
elevation
of heel
T
is marked
distance
the
found.
the
two-thirds
remaining
in
in
the
by
seat-width
Four-ninths
form
obtained found
The
drawn
right
at
is
placed
are
XY.
lines
waist-measure
of
lines
from
draw
shown
t',as
third 0
XY
XT.
one-half
to
five-ninths
to
of the
T
from
remaining Parallel
and
Through ss' and parallelto
XY.
toe-line
between
point midway
a
The
To
the
line,
complete
3 toe, through towards t',and thence through 0 towards w'. Bending then passes the curve to point a',and inwards, it comes side of the shape is determined The other through Y. by continuing through s, w, t, and according to the shape toe finish at X.
the
shape,
Pointed
shapes but
or
because
if the
Square the
shape
respects the
draw
toe
from
Toes
foot is
and
last
may
be
are
tapering be
always
not or
square
1, 2,
to
be
suit
put
on
respectively;
suitably constructed
designed to
or
the
in other "
fashion
"
THE
94
MANUFACTURE
without if the
opposite
is
the
second be
a
In
in
toe, and
Fig. 72 show
give
how
BOOTS
AND
an
the
SHOES.
pointed toe, for instance,
a
the
of the
centre
the
tread, but
from
curves
comfortable
gradual,a will
Fig.71 and
foot.
placed, not
side
either
on
the
injury to toe
OF
boot
this
point
be produced.
may
illustration of this
foot may
remain
principle, uninjured by
pointed toe. Grading other
done
in
one
Sizes
two
or
Fittings of sole-shapes may
and
systems,and by machine.
The
shifting
FIG. 72.
FIG. 71. for
systems
simple,but
short
a
in
the
of
range
hands
be
of
an
sizes
fittingsare inexperiencedperson, or
very
the
of true out fittingsare proportion. The radial system produces grades,in the ratio that the several this is not what is required to the length,and widths are to suit the grade of the widths. waists
of
The
Fig. 73, and
EF
the
Pass-May where the
AB
System
of
is the
seat-line.
The
grading Fittings is illustrated in and length-line, amount
of
CD
grade
the is
tread, decided
96
THE
(If the
grade the
MANUFACTURE
should
be the
to
divided
obtain
the
place directlyover the
the
position,move F
B
B.
to
line
of
the
the
of
line the
the
EB, and
pattern
seat-lines
of
position.
Move
the
Return
the
A
C.
to
place
the
the
DF,
other A
give the
System total
the
the
waist-
the
grade
at
to a
the
together. the
pattern
AC, place
and
curve
tread
ratio
in
to
D.
system, waist,
repeated
for
CE.
should
the
tern pat-
seat-lines,
accurate, should
of
in
from
outside
the
and
A
of
curve
and
This
width, but
A
this
on
outline.
be
the
mark
at
A
from
keeping
"
inside waist-curve
Grading,
to
in
these
Fig. 70)
that
inside
not
divide and
only it in
outside
in
the
same
original;
the
requirements (based is illustrated
scalingfittingsand
grade
a
so
originalproportion and shape preserved throughout the series. A system that
answers
shown
of
remain
curve
and
tracinglevel
givesthe
pattern,so
be
may
the
trace
proportion as
same
of the
in
side
and
c,
length,tread, identical tracing are
waist-curve, for
the
move
towards
"
the
that
b to
tracing
construct
pattern and
then
and
of
To
of
d,
coincides, while
c
AD
the
B, from
this
to
pattern (while keeping
mark
at
pattern
directlyover A
the
on
6, and
towards
place)
and
pattern B
and
of
from
pattern towards
curves so
in
pattern
fittinglargerthan
tracing
length
Mark
of
tracing
the
out cut-
pattern towards
line
the
obtain
the
over
central
a
the
When
tracing level.
pattern and
To
the
on
pattern
of
of
A.)
tread, seat, and
move
of
seat
will be outlined. the
of
the
return
on
side of
shape (Fig.73)
line
tracing,and
B
each
location
product equally
tracing coincide.
central
central
point
Trace
lines
pattern and
Next
AB
that
the
pattern and
keeping
this
the
FB, for the fittinglarger,
seat
at
the marked-out
that
shape, so both
length,and
curve
of
ratio
moiety, being placed on
one
To
whole
SHOES.
seat-grade is required,the the
multiplied by
AND
BOOTS
the
proportion of
correct
seat
OF
in
sizes consists
proportions and and
the
test
of
upon
the
principle
Fig. 74. The principle of adding the required locations the
as
accuracy
existing of
this
THE
OF
UNIVERSITY "SHAPES.
fact that
in the
lies principle
sizes will be the
and fittings
Application.The and
waist,
toe
same
extended
are
"
constructed independently
main
"
97
as
those scaled.
lines
"
on
length, tread, seat, the tracing of the
shapeto be original Then
graded. preferably by of a proportional
"
means
compass
the
"
grades
divided
are
placed line.
and
then
leg
tread;
adjust the
trial,until
the
half will
This tT
say, the the tread.
give the
(Fig.74)
tread- width of
of
to
nut
small
by legsexactlyspan, inside
the
span with the whole
of, say, the
width
and
do this,take
compasses, the long
or
extended
the
on
To
and
increases
ratio of
the
whole
tX.. The
screw
the
pass proportionalcombe tightly now fixed, and if the original shape be constructed upon
will
the
system
illustrated
in
Fig. 70, the ratio will be "T equalsfour-ninths of "X justing read(Fig.74). Without the
compass,
span the
with
the
whole
distance of the tread-
width
about
and
with
from
T
long legs to be
the
graded, legs
small
(Fig.74) mark the inside-joint positiontiof a fittinglarger. Keeping the
same
distance
in
FIG.74.
the
,
SHEWING
with the
longlegs the point on place one newly marked point"',and in compass,
WITH THE
FITTINGS
OT06
GRADED
0.3,AHO 6 OUTLIN"DN?lTOE~
the direction of the outside H
98
THE
MANUFACTURE
joint mark indicate of
the
of the
full width
the
joint X'.
outside
fittinggreater, and
thus
working
scale
If not the
seat-width,
for
measurements
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
to
this
of
grade
a
line
by again setting the proportional width of that in the long legs the whole so compasses the legs original tread is spanned, while the smaller half the the easilyapplied, original seat (or more span be
may
obtained
while
seat). Then, with
the be
to
the
long legs
the
in the
will, be
obtained, and
seat-
widths,
To the half
the the
obtain
same
measure
the
distance
of
sS the
With
compass.
waist,
or
both
If
working
be
transferred other
any
in
with
width the
the fix
Then
Ww.
this
in
compass
toe
showing grade and Cote
the
have
outlined
been
method
of
to
a
of
direct.
the short the
of
nut
the with
ratio, span
the
in
long legs legs the
short
the inside
half
the
shapes fittings, shape by
for 0, 3, and
obtaining
S,
scale
part, proceed
instance, span
(Fig.74),and
of
sides
half-seat and long legs the new measure, from W, the legs will indicate, measured of the new waist In the Fig. 74 measure. 1
the
give
the
of No.
fitting
new
will
legs
marked
may
For
seat
be
can
division).
way.
the
the
new
spanned
saving
small
of
fitting(or if the half-seat was fitting original,the half-seat of the new
the
of
seat
thus
the
constructed, and
whole
tread
whole
this ratio, span
at
are
compasses
6
same
construction.
Grading Machine
is called
inventor
the
by
"
the
that is an improvement Pantograph," and enables patterns to be produced which have not the defect of a proportional width-grading to the length,that would be produced by the ordinary pantograph. It is a simple
Improved
machine
to
operate, and
shapes
correct
of
patterns.
The
Fig. 75, and it will be observed frame, containing in the base a handles
B, B,
A, A
are
in which
raised,it allows for
arranged
slide the
it will
in its latest form
so
movable
is illustrated
machine to
consist
sheet that bars
of
produce
of
a
in
cast-iron
plate-glass.The
it will
C, C.
raise When
the
bars
this is
the paper board to be placed in position or lowered, the bars hold the paper cutting,and, when
SOLE-SHAPES.
glass,preventing any sliding. The graduated used to regulate the length of A, B, C (Fig. 76) are patterns, and in use require to be adjusted to the same
firmly to arms
the
the
figure on
each
D, which
slides
the turn
99
handle on
76, and
in
arm.
width
along the Fig. 75 is
its centre. when
The
the
scale either a
grooved
It is situated little
is
the
regulatedby
side
of
wheel
over
revolving knife
the is
nut
Above
zero.
that
is free
hole
J
in
placed in
to
Fig. J,
a
ioo
o
THE
MANUFACTURE
OF
BOOTS
AND
SHOES.
SOLE-SHAPES.
pattern cut a
the
"
One
out.
hole
size
same
hole
the
use
the
measure
32.
The
and
will
machine
length
machine
for
standard
a
larger,and
size
one
is
"
enable
it
decided
of
tread
and
width, thus
The
of
32
(Fig. 76),
of
The
total
ins., this
of the
width
would
the
tread
thirty-six
measure
Subtract
inch.
an
measure
C
A, B, and
*
rule
to grade-width is now illustration,say y1^ in. between
size.
3
men's, it would
at
unit
of
per
measured, say
the
standard-shape by
in length produce patterns differing
to
in.
tread
twelfths
the
it is size 7's
for sake
"
sizes,
for cutting sole-shapesin
is set to
by sizes, i.e. J
one-
used
one
above, i.e.K, gives
provided. Supposing
is
the
as
below, i.e. I,a size smaller.
To
be
101
the
from
length
"
Length
36
Width
32
units. "
Difference
4 "
The
D
screw
units, and
the
is
moved
machine
the
length exceeds the left; and when
is
placed to Last
so
the
width
the
of
breech
be
the
screw
several
correctly graded
scaled.
In
Fig. 77
pattern is illustrated,and
must
be
sizes,should
be
produced. They
for
is
cut
so
a
that
longitudinal it will allow
lengthways, just touching it This would correct pitch and equally all round. ensure a spring being obtained, and if the positionsof measuring a
last
to
made
sometimes
if made
breech
put
zero.
accurately cut, and, or
When
length,the
patterns, are
may
four
zero
use.
is
D
screw
exceeds
right hand
particularidea
a
for
adjusted ready
width, the
the
Sections, or
that
is
of
lefthand
the
to
the
to
pass
joints
and
it
through
insteps of
enable
the
Fig. 78
illustrates
girths
be
to a
cross
the
last
taken
marked, it would
were
in
the
correct
positions.
breech,taken
section, or
at
the
joints. *
the
This end
is
a
rule
divided
consecutivelywithout
into a
one-thirds break.
of
an
inch, and
It is sub-divided
numbered
into one-tenths.
from
shape,and by
trade
yet
adapted
be
used
Woods
The
for
Beech
initial
the
preserve
required
measurements
by Fig. 79. in
Last-Making
charme.
and
beech
to
is illustrated
This
custom.
as
the
to
SHOES.
AND
prepared for last-making,
are
accurately graded,so
be
must
shapes,if they
insole
The
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
102
in
England and
nature
depends upon
a
quality deal
great
the soil where and
is grown, the
cipally prin-
are
upon its
of
rapidity
The
development. of small
trunks
largerones used The bark
for
wood
Charme, in
the
"
or
thicker
the
close
The in
the
wood
the
chiefly
are
last-making. of the
is, as
to the
the
better
rule, a
a
quality
timber.
wood, is imported into this country
French
blocks, roughly shaped.
blocks.
bark
of the
thickness
guide as of the
trees,
the branches
or
it
is
of
grain, hard,
They the
are
thus
hornbeam
and
called
chopped
family,
usually
very
free
and
is
from
knots. In
selecting a
suitable
wood,
the
chief
points
to
be
the
shaped pieces to size of the
to the
the
is
an
they
as
advocated
makes air
it
little softer. to retain
seems
The
the
of the
more
the
timber
spokes will into pairs.
be
has
Sorting into Pairs. the
chosen be
of
^structure to
either
make in
been
first cut
With
lasts
the
last's
point,because, odd
lasts would
the
shrinkage could
be
Bark-bottomed that
the
bottoms
that
are
cut
last
runs
from
height
or
lasts
the
parallelto preferred,because any
the
that
the
wood
can
"
be
Bark
shrinkage that
portant im-
an
much,
properly mated, fittings." if
which
that
is
shrink
should
those
bark.
sorted
respecting
This
width.
wood
so
said
the
greater shrinkage may
bark, and
wood
lengths
afterwards
seen
good by
are
to the
exposure
been
result,whereas,
be made
face
be the
if the
and
wood, and
the
36 -in.
has
what
that
the
into
three, and
it will so
sorted re-
87:
into
wood
be
of the wood.
nature
cut
From
"
of
colour
seasoning by
Fie If
to
age. prevents shrink-
it
because
steaming changes
a
supposed
are
when received. seasoned partially wood, steaming is sometimes green to, being a shorter process
80
This
trunk, according
the
important operationin the wood for last-making. The spokes are stacked in a dry, airy place,free from direct sunshine or heat, for a period of about two years at least. The imported blocks do not usually get such a lengthy
wood
drying,
FIG.
from
cut
tree.
Seasoning the
preparing of
length
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
104
are
sides
bark the
selected are
those
"height" of
sides takes
are
so
the
usually
place may
be
LAST-MAKING.
remedied
by using
bottomed
while
older
plan
latterlyit
the
circular like
something
the
sawing
or
The
with
is
block
greatly
the
after
work
quired. re-
"
of
facilitates
of
knifing FIG.
(Fig. 82). Knifing the block A
series
of
last.
be made has
tape The
the
During
insole
be
to
block
is
block
to
the
down
to have
the
the
upon
outline has
evolving block
to the
the
last,or
long.
last.
cut.
of work
kind
of the
taste
to
measuring
the
the
according
rough
reference
to
a
gradually
knife
model, and
or
ready
now
sawn
be made
required to
this
knifing constant
shape
with
ins.
14
about
from
frequently applied
roughed piece is The
the
82.
It is done
stage. blade
a
cuts
size reduces
the
to
next
of
well-directed
diminishingin of the
is the
consists
knife that
the
with
into
shape
the
formed. per-
process
block
the
chop
to
next
sawn
squaring
"
is the
Block
was
saw
the
This
bench
bark-
94
Figs. 90,
lasts,and
lasts.
Chopping
axe,
Figs.
top of the last.
the
on fitting
a
bark-sided
show
91, 92, 93
105
last-
maker. The
the
Completing
block
and
the holes to allow drilling the boot, from be drawn respectively finishing.These operationsrequire
Processes
last to
rasping,scraping,and attention, use
of the
as
from
copies other the The
Machinery.
chieflyof
are
sort
other
to
after
shape, finish,and
the
The
"
kinds
two
"
pattern last
a
a
sizes
in
a
"set"
of accuracy
the
latter type is
set.
given
with
sized
similar
be
An in
illustration
Fig. 83.
A
from
turned
block
shape a
enable
one
model.
is
is
prising sur-
preserved
machine as
the
that
is done
this
of
; and
one
machines,
which
turning
copying lathe, that
the
one,
pitch,spring,and
correct
throughout the
to
for
machines
accurately constructed
are
degree "
much
last.
Last-Making lasts
add
they
are
of the
it leaves
this
io6
MANUFACTURE
THE
used
by Fig.
is illustrated
machine
band
are
BOOTS
OF
The
84.
SHOES.
AND
machines
other
drillingmachines, finishingmachines,
saws,
etc.
Lasts When
they
83.
FIC. with
a
so
last,they
OILMAN'S
outside
an
rightsand
"
made
are
side of
either
either
be
may
and
that "
are
they
"
or
"
inside
joint they
last to
accommodate
on
made
when
but
INC
TURK
straights."
symmetrical
are
straights;
LAST
"
lefts
MACHINE "
are
rights
and
lefts." is
Pitch boot the
or
shoe
back
given to
to
a
made
be
portion of
the
tangentially through
height of and
the
heel
last from
position
is increased
following,the waist
the
so
the
is hollowed
line that
of the
more
would
joint.
pitch is
of the
elevation
It is the
thereon.
the
the heel
made
As
of pass the
greater,
to facilitate
the
LAST-MAKING.
building of elevation the
a
heel.
square
of the
of
seat
of the
toe
the
last from
It
regulated by
is
boot
and
If the
in
substance little
91.
kind
of
the
sole
for this
and,
is
as
front
a
hand,
is
of the
shoe
for
spring
shoe
last
may
be
from
the level
men's,
1
illustrated Other
\
The
in.,and
would
in
Fig.
than
the
that
forward, and
would
last
which
of
a
the
boot, there
high
heels
the the
consequently
is "
an
a
need
low
so
heels
High Sometimes hollowness
applied when
"
spring
last,the
scale
would
upon
the
"
seat
be,
plan
fore
The
part
arch
in this
rule may
more
shorter
less
"
of the
the waist
spring
more
shoe
is
such
as
sense
Louis
a
boot
a
as
thus
"
spring. "
"
is used
waist, the
is flat.
is
elasticity and
"
term
the
of
for
made "
be condensed
longerforepart "
material
the
line of contact
spring
a
"
the or
great heel.
walking
Low
in. ;
be measured
allowance
"
not
J
58.
relativelyshorter, preventing the full bending of the foot. A high-heeledboot does
last
"
the
rests
subdivided
be
the
across
may
such
for
basis
toes"
the
be about
scale
A
in.
stouter
uncomfortable.
spring actuallyrequired for
of in
formed
be
reason
the
at
up
for convenience
upon
raised.
substance fact
surface
""turn
will
average
The
the last.
unsightlyand
are
constructed, and
being
will
another
having
the
through
pass
provided in
not
wrinkles
an
of the
FIG".
spring in
worn
which
would
elevation
soles
of
when
boots
the
equal ;
stout
consequence,
The
with
below
quired, re-
because, if spring is
the
goods,
"
line
be
is
spring
require a greater amount
the
the
of
amount
sole.
thingsare
the other
on
and
of the
if other and
of
firmness
light,very
that
Figs. 90 the
denote
to
line
the
basis S
and
the
91
Figs. 90,
last above
used
term
joint
not
In
pitch P. Spring is the
a
107
term
to "
describe dead
"
the
being
io8
MANUFACTURE
THE
Drop, denote on
Dead
or
style of
the stand
a
Waists
the
said
be
to
dead
when
waist
is
the
the
across
the
according to
etc. ;
the
as
is
of
the
building
fit to be
correct
a
hand
shape
correct
of
by the
other
the
of
obtained
boot. Lasts "
be
may
done
several ways,
in
block, sectional,etc.
as
FIG,
or
former
The
kind
The
then
between
distance on
placed
last would
seat, a
85.
FIG.
shoe,
of the
Classifying of
The
the
enable
secondly,to
heel
to
first, because
important;
heel,and
tread
edge.
last be
uppermost,
great, and
the
to
near
relativelyto
If the
is
SHOES.
used
last.
when
last is
straight-edgeand
terms
from
waist
drop
the
bottom
placing a straight edge be
BOOTS
of the
waist
that
so
are
AND
OF
or
the
others
boot,
as
85a.
welted, hand
machine-sewn,
preferable,as
;
etc.
-sewn,
be classed
may
as
subdivisions. Comb
having and the "
Lasts
thread
"
place
of
cut.
They
usual
block
piece, without
one
for
used
are
sewrounds, and
work, the
all in
made
making
slippers,and
is taken
by
"
needle
during "
a
use
"
fitting
or
shover." Lasts
Block
permit
of the
in various
cut
ideal cut with as
block
any
lasts
are
as
is
one
little
possible.
lasts
are
last
that
have
being drawn
shapes,according that
allows
tendency
to
from to
a
the taste
block boot. or
of its withdrawal
injury to
the
cut
so
as
Blocks
work and
to are
; but
the
insertion
goods being
made
LAST-MAKING.
Sectional
Lasts
of various
are
are
protectedby patents.
the
risks
and
goods during manufacture, recommended The
as
Exit
Easy
is illustrated
and The
last
which
in
is
that is released lasts
a
the See
one.
last is
shape
of
the
principle is
to
be
of
Fig. 85,
well-known
85a.
device
by
by a
a
as
key.
The
have
sometimes
Arnold
hinged
a
last,and
is illustrated
loose
requiresno misplaced. It
by Fig. 86.
parts that may
Miller
sectional
86
be
FIG
The
85b.
variety of
last is another
FIG
no
this sort,
well.
The
has
of
spring
FIG.
block
mitigate
to
by Fig. 856. two portions,
locked
are
men's
correct
a
is intended
use
alteration
and
of which
patterns,many
Their
breakages
from
109
last is illustrated
key
and
87
by Figs. 87
and
88
It .
THE
no
is
MANUFACTURE
and
neat
a
loosen
OF
of two which
key
to
88
Brining
last is illustrated
portions
fastened
raises
spring.
a
by Fig. 89. It together by a cord, one
In
spring
is liable
If this
were
Boot
lasts,and
Lasts are
new
thus
the above make
made
are
is
much
made ankle
was
in the
it would
remedied
required for Since
catch
to
to
highly
lasts
the
consists
top
a
serviceable
the
accommodate
recommended.
of
of the
during withdrawal.
upper
last.*
thicker at the sides than
the
end
89
be
bones.
written
iron
the
FIG.
the
SHOES.
it.
The
and
AND
requiringno
arrangement
compact
FIG
*
BOOTS
As
they
last has
are
been
extra
other ness thick-
usuallyrequired considerablyimproved,
THE
H2
MANUFACTURE
lowness
of
the
sides ; and
bottom
waist The has
is
is much sides
about Lasts
minor
also thin. inch
one
for
that
be
may
the
Various
used
is
a
than
in
a
shoe
last.
toe.
used
of
have
Work
suit
to
shows
Fig. 93 hand-
the
side,and
to
and slipper-comb-last,
Kinds
are
for
side
dead
Fig. 92
of manufacture.
last that
from more
spring in
making
variations
method
SHOES.
92
rounded
more
straighteror
are
AND
usually worn, coupled with the long a greater tendency to lie loose or gape to counteract this more spring is given.
FIG. The
BOOTS
heel
quarters, that have at the
OF
the
the
many
particular
bottom
of
a
sewrounds, pegged
sewn,
FIG. 93. or
braced for
work. use
Fig. 94 in
making
shows
a
last
with
work
welted
with
a a
metal
plate, heel-
nailed
heel.
FIG. 94-
Fig. 95 sewn
shows
work.
little smaller fact that
they
a
metal-plated bottom
Lasts in are
for
made
sewrounds
making
girth than
for
inside
for
other
out, and
making
machine-
should
work, owing afterwards
be to
a
the
turned.
LAST-MAKING.
in
snugger
those
the
goods are some
thinner,
the
away the
so
feather.
FIG.
or
polishedare
so
much.
various
easilykept clean, and
more
By mixing colours
The
be used
may
Positions
to
in
Girth
with
marked
the
Oilman
last where
the
that
the
shellac
as
be
may
the
on
easily top
of
Usually the of judgment. The proportionsthat basis of a table of positionmeasures
measurements
positionsare a matter are supposed to be the are,
be
nail
round-headed
a
the
joints, relativelyfixed ;
last-making machine
by driving
shrink
last,such
a
to
not
kinds.
for various
measure
do
with
colouring matter
a
instep,heel, tread, seat, etc.,ought
the
95.
lasts if varnished*
Wood
and
smaller slightly
are finishing
made
are
and
from
upper
waist, and
made, and
draw
to
as
in the
broad
which
upon
cases
higher
for
fitting. Lasts
than
in
be flat and
lasts should
Court-shoe
jointsare
taken.
are
one-third,and
the
instep one-half
FIG. 96 of the
length of the last. These are applied to the last by measuring from the toe end straight to the joint or instepposition(seeFig. 96),whereas the proportionsgiven longitudinalratios.
are
difference,where *
well
A
varnish
made
for this purpose.
AB
Fig. 97
is the
is drawn
length
by dissolving shellac If
pads
are
used, add
illustrate the
of the last in
a
to
as
recorded
methylated spiritanswers
little linseed
oil. I
THE
ii4
shoe
by
entire from
sizes ; Aa
to J
I
XI
gives is
in the it is
instep,taken
the
usually measured
the
instep location.
greater than table
below
supposed
to be
A6, and do
not
based
on
It
at one-half
of the this
will
be
AB
;
last)givesthe while
plan ;
observed
figures used correspond exactly to so
the
of
one-third
at
(not following the bend
joint position as to
; A6
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
joint, taken
the
AB
length X
OF
MANUFACTURE
the
as
X
that
given
the data
upon.
FIG. 97
The to the
gives the distances from as XJ jointand instep respectively table
Sizes.
Inches.
Joints.
the and
top of the puff XI
in
Instep.
Fig. 97.
LAST-MAKING.
The
115
the
illustration
the
automatically the girths of lasts,and 98) shows
to indicate
is devised
Machine
Stanley Last-Measuring
taking toe, joint,waist,
machine
and
(Fig. instep
measure.
98.
FIG.
LAST
MEASURING
Observations
General
MACHINE.
Lasts.
on
Great
"
should
care
standard or exercised,in gettingout the original of
plenty
should
shape
is
room
given
to the
conform
that the last is
purpose
of the ball of the the toes
of
size,and
one
allowance
some
to
the
therefrom, and
easy in
the
for
made
a
entrance
to
be
made
made
from
No
the
provided for,also
to allow
lasts
iron
contraction be
the
the
to
healthy position. boot
the
enough
snug
be
enough
casting
of the
of
toe
room.
to
the It
wearer.
the
the hot
to
be
foot without
should
allow
boot, keeping the
injuriouspressure last, and
should
no
foot have iron.
able rightshape adapt-
particular boot to confine
the
ness instance, the thick-
turning only require one
should of
purpose
For
should
toe
for
the
correct
be thick
models
experience
uneasy
great
model, that
place,and that requirements of the foot for
machine
for
ideal-shaped last
An
the
being made.
of lasts should models
The
in
be
should
wrinkles
of
made any
of
an
foot be
in
loose
ii6
THE
MANUFACTURE
leather at any
OF
It should
part.
combine
a
studious
experience.
The
backs
often
are
made
of the
in iron
rounded
foot.
lasts
and
as
convex,
and
96
is often
factories shoe
lasts the
the
toe
Proper toed should
large.
The
seats
should
be
by Figs. 91
and
98a
a
to
as
little distance
Fitting if
much
on
made
and
proper
from
the
by
be
selection
of is
needed,
in measurement of toe, and
tout
ensemble where
illustrates
correspond the dotted
with
the
line the
the
last,and
the
to
than
person
before for
shape.
be such
toe
toes
that
as
The
not
measures,
the
last-
only conform
spring,style
the foot
plain outline
the shaded
ledge, know-
selectinga last. making bespoke,
should fittings The
pointed-
and
care
that the last may
must
gape.
style of
required. The
last
also in
draft.
for
to
(Fig.90) or puff
requiresmuch
so
but
short, causing
end.
extreme
suitable
a
In
outside.
The
thickness
carefullystudied
the
made
bevel
different
a
in
quarters
shape.
is
of lasts used
too
the
should
of squarer
of Lasts
up
be
judgment
Fig.99
often
article good-fitting
a
fitter,should the
waist
hollowed
give
draft, etc.,if taken In
the
wear
in contrast
a
carefullyformed, whether
be
The
of
length
those
over
(Fig.91),so lie
in
allowance
lasts
in
to
flat,
foreparts are up
conform and
much
too
turn
to
arch
The
92.
the
square
FIG. 98 to
that
are
not
long,
a
too
are
too
seen
do
by
made
Seats
often
are
lasts
in
and straight,
too
easy, and
is obtained
that
found
often
are
SHOES.
AND
graceful and
be
knowledge
that
errors
the back and
skill and
BOOTS
be
requires. placed
is the
to
draft,
portionthe fittings.
LAST-FITTING.
Fittingsare increase
to
skived
when
ridges," but
the
percha
is used
named
are
and
dimensions
that
so "
its
for
They
contour.
the
last
should
be
to
placed in positionthere are no should be gradual. increase
to affixing
according to
iron
The
lasts.
usual
such position of fixing,
the
sudden Gutta-
fittings as
joint
99.
FIG.
and
fixed
leather, and
of
made
117
shover, joint fitting, instep fitting,
or instepfitting,
pin,toe pin,etc. In fixingupon the girths to be made for the instep, from the measure \ in. is usually deducted
heel
if the foot be In
a
the
"
"
fleshy
"
bony,"while foot
the
in. less than
\
be made.
would
instep measures
jointsare full up the joint, and J The
to
measure.
in. less than
illustration
(Fig.
FIG. 100
100)shows casts to
a
foot and
a
make
a
If the
top
of
the
art
on
without
joint-measure be the
outside
the
a
consideration, too
joint
fitting may
to
small, a fitting
to make
be
it to the
required by
big toe joint. This fact position careful study, as allowing for the proper disthe joint measurements, providing the last is
and
repay
or
whereas
measurement, thickness
worn-out on
Plaster heel-pin. lessons boot will give many of fittingup. The fittings
and instepfitting
simply placed,
bulk.
up
placed on
will
an
careful observer sometimes
are
is
of
last with
a
roundness
of the
THE
n8
MANUFACTURE
in
correct
other
comfortable
Fig. 101,
respects, will
shoe
A
OF
is the section
the
at
a
by
bespoke
a
section
The
of
the
sections
of
maker
the
make
to
of
cast
which
FIG the
tudinally from is
given
in
Fig.
last
a
"
specials
"
that
was
for
foot,
a
Fig. 101, B. longicast, measured
and
at
102
position for
in identical and
A
102
of
In
over.
B
Fig. 102
for
the
joint,
last and
the
respectively.
cast
A
well-fitted
sole of the
ridge
the
on
to
enough
in
of the
should
last should
foot,and
protuberances
toes
heel
tread
not
is shown
last
same
fittingand
neat
a
instep
SHOES.
101
FIG used
enable
that will
be made
to
AND
BOOTS
find
and
inside
hollows, of
the
right place
no
the
place in
gracefullyrounded
and
the
toes to
proper a
and
last
the
toe, and
in
to the
where
fundamental
prominent
the
should
be
of
last
will
the
placing of
allow
the of
tinued gracefullycon-
position. Lumps
fitted
of the
contour
the reproduce artistically
the
foot
conform
be
and
thick
dents
last,everything should
correctlypositioned.
the
be
fit the
to
the
the
leather
the
scalingthe
; and
complete a
of
a
"
"
set
work,
and
old
mechanical
most
method
of
be
style,may
for
cutting patterns division. is the
-Cutting by Soule's System." This
me
production
The
an
or
another
Wellingtons,jockeys, etc.,is For
of
modifying
designing. Long
termed
grading.
struction con-
the standard
patterns from
as
cut
to
standard
termed
to
pattern
which
parts from be
other
classed the
shape, or
new
the
the
complete
to
distinction
for
SHOES.
AND
forme* cutting;adding
obtain
to
may
to
BOOTS
remaining parts
used
be
may
termed
be
last may
forme
that
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
120
simplest It
forme.
cutting a
was
FIG. /03
first in
principal
and
the
at
using
a
pencil line.
The
last laid
round than *
to the
that
also called
t The
"
totallingthe
is
of the
centre
These
two
required
last
of the
Two
pieces of
required from
of the to the
will
show
is
French,
last. and
and
of the
top
a
toe,
connected
by
sketched
lead-
similarlydivided are
The
It is
taken
now
last,only about
fit the
the
follows.
as
is taken
a
paper them.
upon
improved
are
or
last is
been
the
on
points
back
shape
is
paper inch
an
corresponds to
"
our
and cut
larger
serrated
now
by
last."
f
or
It is
last-shape."
serrations
calculated
forme
its side
on
is taken
Forme
the
rule, strip of card,
straight line.
the
are
operandi
instep.
flexible
it has
modus
The
in the
then
(Fig. 103)
process.
made
Since
illustration
last for which
mark
a
the
detail, and
The
1884.
publishedin
to
cause
amounts
likelyto
are
trouble of
cause
several
errors,
during lasting.
openings
when
which
Corrections
laid to the last.
if not may
corrected
be made
by
PATTERN-MAKING
notched, and of
tack
a
last.
it is not
piece fastened drawing-pin,as
one
or
The
is bent
paper
of
the
to the
last,cut the front
last
the
and
board.
been
far
convenient
of
back
the
last,and
marked
completed,and be repeated for
last,the
These
The a
formes
require now
produced from lefts."
To
and
laid upon
The
other
round.
forme
parts by
This
knowledge
the
varying
the
to obtain to be
cover
were
covers
of them
one
is taken
It is also
to obtain to
pattern
fit
suggestedas
and
curves
in the
is obtained.
flat
a
round.
curves
is recommended in
rights
"
also marked
the
forme
mean
last.
the relative
as
last.
relations
a
of the
by using pieces of lining roughed to the shape leg and foot, and after serrating,pinning them
the
together.
Much
method
cutting
the
which, when
care
be
rough
front
and
the
an
to
fasten
taken
to
The
thus
be
iron
last,using copying
and paper
back
obtained.
sectional line, and
blotting-paper
from
last laid
the marked
crosses
been
for
of
also be used has
may
shapes
damped it
used the
mark
stain where may
information
may
pencil to
If due
of
respectively,
be termed
between
shape required
contour
other
foot
leg and
wax
of
to obtain
good plan
a
distance line the
fresh
a
side.
tracing,and
this
over
system of forme-making
the
lead
is laid
the
carefullymarked
and
paper
By splittingthe
several
same
piece of
a
formes,
the
average
the
from
If the
formes, they would
the two
up
previously
sides of the
custom.
way
removed
averaged,so
both
the
sides of the
outer
or
be
to
trade
is the
symmetrical, as
of
the inner
from
from
along
to the
formes
outside
forme, that will enable
mean
and
and
inside
taken
are
to
process
termed
are
they
as
same
where
off,or
all the
in the waist
the
and
"
removed
feather,turning or cutting it
insole-shape.This
as
that
it is cut
followed
is
to the
"
taken
laster
the
103
means
being
straightline
This
the
last,by
care
by
121
Fig.
down, imitatingas leaded
down
wood in
"
line,and, after it has
on
a
shown
the
to
GRADING.
if
"
pulling followed
strips cross
folded
but
pulled up,
the direction the
AND
line.
it,will leave
upon A
little
ordinarypaper counteract
the
sealing-
to the
last.
tendency
of
MANUFACTURE
THE
122
the
laster's
pulls,this Marking
be
Measuring
or
SHOES.
plane,during bending
its
the
produces
cannot
AND
direction
to
the
of
results,and
accurate
equalled. System requires the
ledge know-
proportions of the previous but is quicker and a practical workshop training, The principleof the system is that the points
of
the
method's method.
and
curves
measurement
last and
the
on
from
all measured
are
method
training method
a
The
of
alter
or
up,
BOOTS
last, by pulling it slightly in
the
for
to curl
paper
OF
fixed
a
identical, and
pattern are
point.*
It enables
pattern
a
produced that is calculated to lend itself to the usual the differences that may and method adopted in lasting," of an be required in the fitting upper for various substances and not be made of materials a uniform can principle, upon of points simply by guesswork. The greater the number of measurement used, other things being equal,the better. For : length, practicaluse, the followingare recommended to be
"
toes, joints,and from
of distances be used
the
locatingthe Description of the left-foot
uniformity,the
insure
"
table
toe," given in the last chapter,should
for
a
To
instep.
one
points
"
Method.
"
of measurement. Take
the
first mark
and
"
"
last the
on
by
"
ference pre-
front
the
F IG. 104
positionof measurement Fig. 104). Lay the a
suitable *
This
piece
does
system
system gives" f If this
if it be
were
taken
of
a
from
instepf (A, B, C,
of toes,joint,and last with
give
toe
to the
left hand
and, bending the
paper, not
the
the
exaggerated shape
to
paper that
upon
the
the
Soule's
properly worked. ladies' 5's last the
it would
be
1^ in.
top of the toe of the last in
a
in
3 in. and
straightline.
5
in.
spectively re-
PATTERN-MAKING
last,keeping the
upon
AND
downward
a
the
(A, B, C, Fig. 104). A line is drawn back of the last (D, Fig. 104) upon
FIG.
taken is
of
and
and
that
indicate
this
outline,where
practiceto the
do
done
been
has it
properly be
pattern,and
the last and
measure
principlea point of It is found
most
is obtained
thus
to
instep point C,
The
last,if carefully executed, coincides D, Fig. 104. The
last
is taken
and
this
measurement
shown.
104), and marked
The
then
These
and
enable measured
marked
last is also measured
one-half towards
of the
this line
to
from from
made
paper, to
necessary
the
on
In
be fixed.
D
S
the
seat.
(Fig. 104),
Fig. 106,
on
C
from from
and
top of the last, to
s
this
pattern
establish
d to
round
taken, and
the
and seat-point,
; also the us
little
some
should
the
use
paper
it correct.
measurement
common
convenient :
now
make
to
Fig.
measurement.
last from
It is
give
line in
requires
the
Fig. 106.
as
Soule's
is the
XYxy
it
remove
"
will
forme
and
"
of the
will
dotted
The
of toe
top
training of made
be
to
required.
this
being
bottom
the
The
forme
of
of the
care
of the
centre
paper,
tracing
a
instep
top
paper,
of the pointsof Aa, B6, Cc the positions
After
and
enable
the
The
marked.
also
toe, joint,and close to the
the
outline will
the
the toe, mark
105
last.
upon
last
the will
system 105
the
move
indicated
now
back
an
to
not
123
tendency towards
positions of
the
paper
GRADING.
c
by measuring
to
S
as
(Fig.
(Fig. 106), from
d to
s.
THE
124
Where a
MANUFACTURE
these
OF
intersect
for starting-point
taken the
0
at seat
from
*
as
A
measures.
the last"
round
^keeping
straighta line as possible on the B, Fig. 104 (half of this is measured s),towards
seat
position.
1/2,and
6, and
This
is
where
in
repeated for
the toes
as
sometimes
seat, but
measurement
tape
cord
or
in
passingthrough
"
Fig. 106
it intersects
from
verifies the
a, and
the
the
joint
positions
3, Fig. 106.
FIG. The
A
the
last
as
is used
of the
useful.
most
as
SHOES.
point is
instead starting-place,
a
is recommended
the seat
AND
seat-pointwhich
is the
other
BOOTS
girths
"feather
are
taken, and
now
feather," half
to
IO6.
them
of
if
measured
from
applied to pattern
as
N, O, P, Fig. 106. The
length requiresto using one edge of the tape and, starting from the toe to the
again
top
the
over
from
distance
the
or
feather
"
top
of the
the
seat
In
hands
it is not
absolutelynecessary
be
a
made
the actual
separate process,
This
is found so
that
"
of the
an
the
cord,
the seat back ; half
without
length
of
by
toe, proceeding up
the feather
that as
non-elastic
passing round the
is done
of this
lasting
experienced person, cutting of a forme
it may
be
with
combined
standard.
Lasting *
piece of
puff,to
gives
the
checked, which a
puff,thence
or
allowances.
over
be
Over
point is by taking
it varies
Allowances
located one
by
a
may
be made
by adding
to the
simple rule, viz. the height of stiffener ; and instep-girthfrom feather to feather;
quarter of the
according
to the
kind
of foot
or
last,whether
arched
or
flat.
PATTERN-MAKING
forme
nett
sole
will also vary
the thickness
by allowing in length the
length
former
of
in denominations
averaged
of
the
certain
a
last, for
the table
way
the
be
would
The
such
as
amount
machine-
these
allowances
inch, and
at other
fixed
the
of the inner
upper.
making,
Sometimes
hand-sewn.
or
of
125
substance
of the
method
to the
as
GRADING.
to the
equal
amount
an
(ifany), and
sewn
AND
number
times
of sizes
over
In
pattern.
upper
are
the
"
Hand-sewn
\ in.
.........
Machiue-sewn,
etc. ...
\
...
"
stouter "
Welted
and
\
the average
The
to vary,
the mode Pitch
a
thus
maker. or
term or
it
a
also,and of the
leg
the
the
to
seat
term
pattern may
more
varietyof
a
height of
the
incorrectlypitched for relation
these
cause
of the upper,
identical. of
elevation
correspondsto
In this sense,
is used
will
shape
in
not
are
pattern to accommodate used
"
stretchiness
is used
that
term
signifythe
to
be
in. in seat.
lasting.
principlesthat
describe is used
is
of
its
also will the
as
would
plan
last and
the
fittingof
amounts
and
the latter
on
forepart,\
"
the as
be
portion heel, and
used
by
said to be
height
usually,to
describe
the
to
Sometimes
certain
a
ways,
of the when
the
last-
correctly
of heel. the
it
The
position
foot-covering portion of
the
126
THE
MANUFACTURE
pattern.
This
variations
of
is
this
foot ;
"
leg position." be
(2) the
to
material
made, and
of
lasting.
which In
it is to be
Fig. 107
the
FIG.
given, showing the difference meaning of "leg position")between AB
portion
relatively,CD both
of
made
the
the
from
feet
of
had
substance
same
identically the
leg
same
the
the
flat and
of
mode arched
pitch (used
them.
The
backwards. to be
and,
Assuming
clothed
the
in
shaded
with
material, and
then
way,
of
pitched forward,
leg pitched
kinds
these
would
the
shows
be
107.
is
foot
would
(3) by a
The
by (1)
substance
of
diagram
a
caused
upper
pitched differentlyaccording from
SHOES.
AND
would
sense,
type of
or
BOOTS
called
likewise
pitch,in
formation
the
OF
boots
lasted
in
patterns for them
this fact the pitched differently. To make more evident, the illustrations Figs. 108 and 109 are backward given, the former showing a boot with a more be
pitch than
correctlypitched
were
a
the
boot
wrinkles go
shown
pitched
was
in
and
made
in
curve
at
the the
Fig. 109
the
in the more
boot
forward
too
across
forward
last
It should
the latter.
boot
wholesale and
noted
for the
were
would
that
kind
made
for
cause
a
quarter, besides
length back
be
much, needing
it,the loose
room.
Fig. 109
a
throat, when
looked
one
that
heel
and
the
fuller
is the
factories, because
Fig. 108
foot,then, if
of
allowing
too
if
foot
to
jointed
style often
the at
excessive in
profile
THE
128
MANUFACTURE
assume
the
appear
as
of
or
shape
of
Fig. 108 those
of
require
to
stouter
or
a
of this may
reason
boot, and
made
up
make
provisionfor
Again,
be
by
produce
boot
a
at
J in.,and
like
Fig.
known
one
at
and
while
These
The
facts
not
and
of the
leg
of the
heel.
In
to be
the
which
upon of
boot
a
speaking of profileline
ankle
bone.
its relative
tip-toe it
the
to carry to
consider the
the a
the
make
very
one
that
high
made the
ground, or
the
is the
extremes
heel
for front
a
of
leg it
throat
When
a
The
? A
the
line
alters
foot
is
on
position
mean
boot
constructed
different
It is
should
upon
is intended
step has been ground again, it is
heel.
boot
flat surface
front
requirea
lower
and
Which, then, is the
ideal.
would
correct
the
the
boot
of
startingfrom
while
ground,
brought to ground backward.
The
kind, purpose,
walking, this
is
positionto
between
its
the
above
would
ground-line or
stands.
line of the
During
heel
relativelyto correct
boot
or
the relation
the
to
the front seen
more
readily remedied.
upon
as
look
will
appreciated
express
boot
relativelyforward.
the
be
depends
positionto
is
taken, and
the
seat, say,
comprehended
to to
upper.
lasted
would
well
if
occur
line
the
first upper
paring pre-
the upper
last the
it at
are
used
surface
these, and
and
second
and
would
way,
of
the
term
front
pattern.
material
same
toe
to
necessary
same
drop
toe.
is the
inclination
to
Take
difficulties that
many
the
of
pitch
standard
the the
Inclination
flat
the
from
by pattern cutters,
enable
the
the
Fig. 108,
109.
the
it is often
lasted
upper,
pull over
like
appear
the
determine
pull over
fellow
the
use
descriptionof
etc.,drop insertingstiffeners,
seat, say J in.,and
Next
the
cut
stuff and
the
(satin)would
light texture be pitched more ward backless stretchy material.
uppers when
SHOES.
very
producing the
Fig. 108.
as
of
this in
which,
patterns
AND
stouter
from
seen
consequently
two
assume
the
uppers
of lasting." principles The mode of lastingwill
"
1
that
so
;
BOOTS
and
Fig. 109,
stretchy nature
a
than The
OF
customary
be at
which
tion inclina-
it
to
right angles stands, and
PATTERN-MAKING
variations
for
made
etc. side-spring, and
Forme
for
used
a
forme
is done
profile. This the last outline
of the
also
Make
couple of
a
to each
lay the mean just touches
line
repeat the
forme
them
between The
making
last
should
it
full
a
forme
be
section will
and
last.
rightangles that
the
seat, and
the
the outline, and The
relative
should
and
to make
same
it,so
and
section.
be noted. the
on
say
ference dif-
joints,
greater in girth. A
inch
an
at
upon
fitted up,
quarter of
tracingthe
of the
Trace
will be seen, now
the
and
"
ball
the
the
thereon
"
of paper
of the forme.
operation with
the
better,however,
sheet
a
this,
pencil upright
sectional outline
a
lines upon
vertical line the back
mean
be
other, and
horizontal
lead
a
do
removing
mark
the paper
It would
last.
forme, and
mean
by keeping
To
before
and
out
side,above
its
lying on
position.
system, but
last,flatten it
the
from
paper
Soule's
on
colliers',
as
be understood.
section,should or profile,
a
make
a
this
from
such
"
of the methods examining some standard, or primary pattern, the covering of a last,or surface-area,
the
between
boot
129
Before
"
producing a
difference and
Profile.
of
kind
the made
are
"
GRADING.
AND
be made
from
the
"
fitted-up
"
last.
top of the
toe
in the bare
each
other, the
has
been from
distance
in the
placed
are
height
the
not
flat
a
the
measure
lines that
upon
of the The
same.
base
will
instance joint-fitted
fitted,is found the
surface,the distance of the
the level surface
last and
base-line,is that
from
formes
the two to
last upon
the
Laying
than
;
taken
have
to
the
one
the
from
from toe
taken
yet when
right-angled
are
toe, measured
forme
at
the
from
is
an
the section
and importantprinciple, of the of The
a
most
correct
and
forme
at
will influence
of the
methods
is the
initial
last
the
Repeat this with the two sections, and the the more equallydistant. The greater the joint-girth between
the
greater
a
last.
difference
same
net
is
toe
the toe.
the This
the determination
for the
tion construc-
standard. Standard
Pattern
one
produced K
from
MANUFACTURE
THE
130
which
various
the
BOOTS
OF
parts
AND
cut, such
are
as
SHOES.
linings,etc., and in a set of patterns is the It should be grade or scale the series from. and draft shape with lasting-overallowances marked
have
should From
standard
the
in proper
from
a
direct
The
the
the
upon
for the kind
of
from
have
foot's
the
from
System No.
at the
B,
heel
of
substance
the
between
D
*
This
ankle
and
may
be
particular
certain
data
a
Find
F, and B
into
obtained
back, above
the
to
a
stationary
pronounced
throat
becomes
is raised. for
horizontal
the
last
line,AB
for which
(Fig.110),
perpendicular,BC. is the height D, which
erect
which
the
a
the
centre
this
name
four
foot
more
the
covering
Draw
for
the
last
forepart of the former. Also from D to point E.
the
f F. ankle-height and
E
heel
C, mark
of that
or
will be measured the
variations
the
related
at
curve
the
is intended.
desired,
the
based
are
when
at the
curve
(when
surface-area
a
direction
the
in
be done
may
to
that
elevation
right-hand end, B,
at the
and
relation
acute
The
straightened as
pattern
This
"
observations
heel,the
more
curve.
First, obtain
taken
proportion.
line),the higher the
the
be
system adopted and
Forme.
a
some
the
upon
heel,becomes the
completed
1.
Based is raised
lining
fit each
may
pattern best adapted to
Others
type of last.
gathered
the
several
average
needed
be
of these systems. Some the relations without giving directly
of
means
to the
etc.
cutter.
Constructinga Standard
by
may or
and
vamps,
is cut
to
finished
made,
may
forme,
last,according
the
they
standard
previously constructed from
that
used
one
of the
this sense, so
vamps,
relation.
experienceof
the
outlines
pattern,in
pattern, quarters, and other
the
thereon
quarters,
vamps,
is
G.
is measured
D
the
Divide
by taking one-quarter
the
* counter-height
from
equal parts, and
of the
built, less
The
between
From
counter
the
G,
from
of the
point
distance towards
instep-girthof
the last.
t This would
be
is taken
4J
in.
as
one-half
of
the
foot's
length, and
for
a
size 4's
(say)
the
portion
toe
and
this
name
the
of
GRADING.
AND
PATTERN-MAKING
Above
H.
off one-fourth
pattern, measure
K, which
mark
F
131
is also
of
DB,
equal
to
and parallel to AB (FM, Fig. 110). equal in length to one-half of the ankle-measure at right angles to and Through M draw a line parallelto CB This
AB.
will
line
F
make
indicate
the
From
of DB.
one-fourth
line
a
of the
front
standard.
The
B
FIG.IIO. is
forme
taken
and
level
put
with
the
base-line, and
at
the
time
Trace touching point D and the counter-heightE. the forme, add the height lasting-overallowance, and measure of top of leg of pattern required. The heel-measure line may same
be
drawn,
shown
in
suitable and
and
the
the
The
will
illustration. and
curves,
will
average
resemble
the
Fig.
method
be
at
42"
Complete
standard
will
be
with
the
dotted
line
the
tracing, making ready for cutting out
110.
is
for
constructing a men's standard, and is illustrated in Fig. Ill, the counter-heightE F and ankle being proportional to the size selected, and following the rule given for the ladies'. The marking of a this diagram, the height is also exhibited on golosh to lock of golosh being indicated A straightline is drawn at N. from same
"
"
adopted
N or
MANUFACTURE
THE
132
T, which
towards vamp.
the
represents
right angles
At
BOOTS
OF
"
the
to
AND
SHOES.
"-line of the
crease
crease-line
the
draw
golosh dotted
FI6.III. line
the
measure
of of a
so
and
NP,
distance The
golosh.
of the
toe
line
from
that
into
divide
front
last. the
it makes
No.
System
This
only
PK
A
equal parts X.
towards
curve
Join
be made
may
pieced-goloshmay
XK
KS. and
From obtain
W range
according to the style be made by drawing
the front line passes, edges of forme, where an angle of 90" with the range-line(Fig.111). 2.
is the
applied.
in construction
same
of
instead
thereon
three
using
Before
the
a
forme, the
and
measurements,
to
do
this
the
preceding, directly
last is
to mark
it is well
last is used
positionsfor taking
the
as
the
the
various
girth-
following will
be
useful. Take lines at to
these
equal
to
piece of manilla right angles to each make a
size
others 4's
at
a
other,
as
joint-distance This
is
a,
of
distance *
*
size, and
of convenient
paper
a
5, c, Fig.
f
from
usually 3
in.
in. toe
112.
From
end,
b
and
mark
Parallel mark at
14,
^
in.
PATTERN-MAKING from
this
4, above
*
positions
AND
and
below, mark
marked
are
GRADING.
from
b to
other
4'
sizes.
The
inner
side
the
on
133
instepof slip.
.7
112
.
To
this
use
and
it until
move
the
level with
^."
^
,
nn
of the
its side
last upon
base-line
AB,
the
of
seat
height
Fig.
toe
then
;
of the
last,should
that
so
the
heel) and
touch
the
in
be
to
thus
mark
is
size
slipba peat Re-
lay positions,
the
touches this
in
the
relation,
(the
D
with
when
bent
to
the
in this stage,
When
E.
joint
shown.
contact
back
the the
feather
the
the
over
bend
Keeping
110.
last,
the
b
figure denoting
joints,and the girth is the instep. Having located
for .?==
top
the
the
round
the
end
locater, place the
the the on positions of the carefully mark paper the last, on joints and insteps previously indicated and and
See also
System
outline
Fig.
model.
of the
distances, and
the
measure
111.
the
trace
complete
the
Eemove
Fig.
as
110
105.
method
Abased
is
the
of
location
"ankle"
relation
in
longitudinal
the
upon
to
"ankle In
"
is usual
it
foot, and
the of
allowance obtain
upon
the
a
to
length of
forme,
or
to
last
the
assume
neglect
the
foot's
the
length, and this proportion also gives the bone height from the margin of the foot.
forme
Fig.
or
No. 3.
This
First
last
as
struction con-
senting repre-
additional
the last. of the
surface-area
of paper its outline
piece
to
be
used
last. for
the
Place
the
standard
C measure, (Fig.113). From in a downward direction, the height of heel the last will carry, Connect this less forepart substance. the height desired or the base-line. point,B, with the swell of the joint,and construct and At A B erect perpendiculars of suitable length, so that
construction, and
trace
*
Size
4 may
be
taken
at 5 in.
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
134
they pass the respectively.
toe
end, and
The
base-line
the
BOOTS
AND
of the
back
extreme
AB
SHOES.
into
is divided
forme
four
equal
N
FI6.II3; parts, and
of
one
the
sub-divisions,measured
from
B, is marked
E, up Through this point erect a perpendicular. From the perpendicularline, mark the distance thus obtain and BD, ^. from in. and indicate Measure F. a ^ If Through F make D.
line
and
parallelto AB,
of the
G
ankle-measure,
perpendicular to Below
-^f
either
on
H.
and
Decide
AB.
make
K,
at
a
from
C
f
placed Above
allow
for
in. and
backwards
From
T. N
from
the
is
necessary,
foot,and
distance from
0
taken
B
patterns
must
one-quarter
S the
the
towards
mark
P
last
not
be
last
a
pattern W
is
length was scooped out
mark.
and
in.
"throat."
If
by measuring is to be
measure
distance
leg-measure
that
the
at
line
draw
the foot, which
from
half-heel
H
size, i.e. f
one
of the
passing H,
because
of
direct
The -Jin. away. N. Complete the
Fig. 113, noting, when This
From
make
Through height of pattern
squareness
fix S.
towards P locate
the
of F
Gr and
the
Passing K, draw the heel-line working from a heel-measure, is round,
side
of
is to be
-| in. taken
illustrated
as some
used here.
f
in
in. away. instead of
MANUFACTURE
THE
136
BOOTS
OF
SHOES.
height of heel is to be measured. a straightline, BEG, Through this point, B (Fig. 114), draw line is made at the joint. Another to pass touching the curve from A to E, and perpendicularlyto this line (AE), justtouching
the
direction
the
back
line
which
AND
in
of the
is used
A
from
determine
to
To
and
distances
at
the
the
forme,
shall pass.
curve
the
height
line AFHK
is drawn.
the
This which
points through obtain these points,F and varying according to the
H
latter
the
are
back
measured
of standard
size
of heel.
TABLE
FOE
ASCERTAINING
HEIGHT
THE
F
OP
H.
AND
Size adult. 1 in. heel.
in. heel.
in. heel.
U
If in. heel.
:
1
2 3
4 5 6 7
1) 10
ankle-line
The one-half
the
is
be average would half the heel-measure is needed is
now
from
S
to
would used
vary to
make
an
to
marked E.
upper,
the
give
or
of
for the for F
and
H, and
4's pattern the
The
allowance
back be
leg measured which
of
pattern
to
may
be the be
application to of this
pattern,
stituting by sub3", and 4| in.
remedied of
from
of
height
material
The
on one-
stretchiness, and
measurements
increasingor decreasing
line
amount
of the
"
lasting. It is averaged at ^ in. completed as illustrated by Fig. 114. in Fig. 115. men's work is shown The excessive curve produced at the together with the "forward" pitch, may mode
The
of the
the
P,
substance "
such
last.
the width
mark
F the
of
this
on
pendicular per-
which
is drawn,
making
equal
to
is drawn
line
a
42", and
seat
off,and
to
of
AM,
the
From
according the
angle
marked
according
pattern
back
at
N
heel-line
The
made
and
H
through Through
line CEB.
the
the
drawn
ankle-measure.
to the
as
Jf
f $
8
this data.
System
No.
GRADING.
AND
PATTERN-MAKING
137
5.
This
is
quick,
a
experiencedperson,
method
reliable
a
of
hands
the
in
and
of
an
producing
/R (H
B FIG. 115. a
direct
standard
previously
make
recommended The
etc., and
the
a
for
last is taken
length
from
the
It
forme.
for
is
having
be
to
handsewn
bespoke and
arid marked and
last without
to
especially work.
positionof joint,instep,
girths measured.
ascertain
To
the
FIG.II6 height of heel joint or line "
the
last
of contact
will "
on
carry, a
take
the
last
flat surface, and
and
raise
lay the
the heel
138
THE
until
the
the
direct
If
working to forepart should the
and
the
make
each
be
of heel taken
F
B,
will
be in
The
and
that
E,
at
the
the
same
way of the E
placed to
same
to be
of
(Fig. 116). of
substance
remainder
used
for
the structing con-
time
correct
size
of the
from F
line AB
in the
toe
(Fig. 117). the
the and
scale
and same
should
at
the
laid
the
on
swell
the D
of
positionsof
direction also be
on
half-ankle
respectivelywith
traced
the
ankle-heightfrom
the
last is taken coincide
for
selected
From
touching the
spring
at
taken
H.
The
standard
right angles to of C, mark D, the height The counter-height, made.
pattern,
back
and
the
to construct
by using
towards
K.
"ANKLE."
AND
the
to
joint of the last. The last is taking the necessary girths located The
the
spring
of heel, and
D, giving point E
from
from
seat
direction
the
paper.
if the
height
(Fig. 117),
according
marked
the
the
BO
pattern
length
is
measurement so
heel,
to be used
the
in
table
p. 125, is measured
paper
SHOES.
constructed
"COUNTER"
FIXING
for the
the
table.
FOR
of paper
From
is obtained
the
the
to be
of
and
lines, AB,
suitable
standard,
back
pattern
deducted
USED
two
from
to the
AND
pattern.
sheet
other.
the
at
measure
BOOTS
surface, and
given height
a
TABLE
Take
the
parallelto
correct,
this
transfer
is
seat
be
toe
OF
MANUFACTURE
on
the
registered.
PATTERN-MAKING
The the
"
last
removed, apply the principle of measuring
points.
or
Care "
lark-heeled
the
should at
GRADING.
AND
all
be
The
the
material, coupled with
points
taken
back.
the
to the
measures
pattern, following
to
other
have
the
and
lighter or
presence
some
from
not
139
pattern
stretchy
more
absence
point
of
leather
a
The point N will shape be influenced. P would suit a the usual show non-giving shaping, while able is leather material that designed for a lining and suitupper stiffening. The remaining stages of the completion may be easilyunderstood by the inspectionof Fig. 117.
lining,so
will
this
FIG.II7 Observations
Standard
on
in
producing a standard above the spring of "
"
be calf-patent,
the
If the for
be
standard
economical
or
not
to raise the
the
last, else when
upper
it will
similar
circumstances,
Uppers
as
if difficult,
not
at
be
may
pattern
work, such
for
allowances
drafting purposes,
basis,enablinguniform
be
be taken
of the
toe
clearlylasted
true, any
proper
should
"
therefrom
made
impossible,to get
Cutting, Care
the
feather.
spring, etc., made
upon under
results to be obtained that
"
are
too
dead
a
"
in the
THE
140
toe
MANUFACTURE
difficult to last in the
are
to be
nicked," while
"
full
too
The
OF
those
should
be
in
its
of
patterns will depend relations.
allowances
must
The
"
machine-
sewn,
the
Differences
amounts
standard
cut
in
last to be
a
The
of the
curves
be imitated different become
the
in when
made-up
bent
sharper,the
the
to
the
pattern
much,
as
the
should
not
upper
should
last
"
a
on
or
back
and
heavy
be
be
not
standards
for
for
construction
and
often
a
they
also fit the
motion first
foot
and
of shoe
will
will
often The
produce waist
hollowed
or
of too
out
pulled transverselyacross
not
boot to
gripwell
be the
be
used
differences
in
The "
"
for
additional
material.
upper
several
have
of
the
fit the last
a
should
sets
for
of the
require
Standards
look
Sharp curves requiringspecialcare.
because
should
fabrics
quarters of the
"
leather,but should
Shoe the
give
"
flat surface
to
as
both
lasting-over allowances, and
not
foot.
scooped
extent
light work,
substances
must
boot. best-fitting
stages. Separate patterns and
on
A
making.
spoilthe draft put in the well-considered pulls of the previous
instep to such an by hoisting and
The
in
completed boot
or
and
throat
smartest-lookingand
in
hand-
requires,not only length to allow for the
Curves
pattern.
the
as
having lasting-over
riveted, etc.,require
standards flattest, plainest-looking
boot
set
fitting.
extra
the
whole
least,and
demands
width-increases, but also additional
The
the
fitted up
"
perfect
as
classes of manufacture.
are
the
wrinkles."
the
lengthand
work
to
"
part fore-
standard
primary
for different
suitable for
and
the
length, and
welted, machine-sewn,
various
required
have
possible,because
for turn-shoe
allowances
"
pleats
"
of correct
upon
be made
"
springy
too
of
fittingproperties as
its correct
SHOES.
waist, being tightand
wi1}ha redundance
standard
AND
BOOTS
as
sprung
the
toe
of
much
exactly.
principles(not
so
vital
standard) being observed. be arranged so that when
at the sides
heel
under
the
ankle,
snugly, to prevent the up and down experiencedwith badly designed shoes. The
important feature, to
"
ensure
a
correct
"
fit,after the
PATTERN-MAKING
selecting of of
shape It
would
back be
not
the
cut
shoe
properly constructed
a
the
must
GRADING.
AND
shall
hooked, foot
correspond shown
as
when
worn
;
to
last, is that that
of
the
/
would
give way
shape
of
back
the
of the
while illustration, usual
standard, The
*
to
should
not
should
FIG. caused to
make
point to *
The
transversely at the
quarters
be observed edge
of the
in
this gape,
in the
same
boot
a
last.
tendency
a
of
waist
for
should
a
shoe
as
the have
pattern strain
any
119 point and
cutting a
quarter must
correct
down
cutting
scooped out,
or
seam
C, it being the
made, and
The
Fig. 119.
hollowed
of
have
together when of
be
boot
The
by B,
reverse
a
upon
shoe
come
appearance
the
it
J
making.
is shown
shoe
produced by
by making
or
of
process
shows
A
shoe
correct
quarters the
of
kind
the
during
foot.
likely the
more
the
else
Fig. 118, C,
in or
141
not
in
lasting would
would
defeat
shoe
pattern.
be confounded
with
the
the
tend
primary
quarter.
142
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
No.
em
forme
a
it is desired
surface-area
or
make
to
suitable
of
Fig. 120,
the
"
AB
line
the
standard
a
the
of
seat
equal
There
step.
the
of rules
of
shoe
for
it
on
a
line, AB,
the
outline
the
several
are
heel
of
last
distanced
being
height
shoe
lay
horizontal
a
forme
the
to
for, and
above
paper
(referFig. 116). Trace fix the height of the back
next
SHOES.
of the
pattern
carry
To
AND
1.
Take
sheet
BOOTS
from
last the
will
forme. be
the
determining
this
will
good rule is first to fix the stiffening,or either be done counter by taking a height, which may of the last,* or by using a ratio proportion of the length latter rule has advantages to the instep-girth. The to A
amount.
FIG.120.
C, Fig.
as
so
as
T to
be a
ensure
the
shoe
in its relation
From
X, along the obtain
E.
EK.
From
K
to
X
another
consistent front *
of
the
One-fifth
t If
a
lower
0
shoe
of the
back
will
give
along TD, J "
draft
D.
the
of above Join
C
DT.
in. less than
TS,
E,
at
a
at
the
right angles to DT,
suitable
and
curve,
draw
from
O
keeping it as straight as possible line of the style required. The
that last is
tension
or
make
the
shoe of the
corner
top of the to the bottom edge (seeX, Fig. 120). line DT, mark, for size 4 adult, 4f in. j "
curve,
with
ment instep-measure-
the
from
This
in.
Through to
entire
height
distance
measure
and
The
%
the
of
located
120.
for this ratio will From
and
used
be
may
forme,
One-fifth
it.
recommend
from
passes
length
desired,
is the
use
basis
4J in.
K
to
V
should
of this rule.
be
MANUFACTURE
THE
144
where
curve
as
Fig.
top of the
the
at
for
mistakenly such
amount
T,
amount,
edge
of the
and
the
second
case,
of of
A
add
serious
N, Fig.
have
is
after
to
the
former
the
binding tendency, is
with
an
equal
case
injury
to
make
the
idea
the
does the
of
in
The
completed.
bottom, would
committed
off
an
on
liable
shoe
done
take
pattern smaller, and fittingpropertiesof
correct
often
error,
the
off the
the
of
the
rendered
thereby
last
leave
a
reasons,
sometimes
"
Neither
122.
bottom, and
the
cutting
long-heel measure therefore
quarter
top (Fig. 1 22). In
back
shoe
trimmed, for any
the
quarter only would
withdrawal
the
from
the
at
of
as
"
R
the
Complete
pass.
may
be
not
back
draft
as
vamp
SHOES.
AND
121.
should
standards
Shoe
the
of
the
outline
BOOTS
OF
not
shoe.
making
FIG.122 the
shoe
grip well, is
to
off
cut
J in.
from
the
instep,A,
amount in the waist, X, so as Fig. 122, adding the same of the pattern the same. to keep the instep measure This will shorten the long-heelmeasure, AC, and will also cause the shoe to be tight in lasting from A to B. If the desire
be
to
the
"
draft
"
the
standard, it should
shoe
for
principleshown
same
Vamps,
It is difficult to
"
fixingthe heightof that
have
low
heeled
to
be
made
a
between
a
boot
give vamp,
to
make
single rule
any
owing and
boots
vamps
drafted
on
standard, p. 158.
work, and for accommodating
toe-caps. It is usual
be
of proportion
to the differences
shoes, high and
the various
for shoes
sorts
lower
of
than
PATTERN-MAKING
would
be the
shorter
vamps
for
low
vamps
joints,and be
capped
without
than
heels are
for
case
would too
cause
more
be low
it should
used
in
made
of cap
caps, the kind
for low
A
heels.
requires low
vamp If
exceedingly uncomfortable. of they give the appearance
waste
be
H5
high-heeledwork
boots, and
those
made
GRADING.
AND
cutting. higher
is to
vamp
it would
than
be
straight(Fig,126),
whether
"
If the
wide
FIG I22A pointed (Fig.122A), difference.
heights of
or
peaked (Fig.126, B)" decidingthe that
It is recommended vamps
be reduced
to
a
as
far
as
possible the
proportion of
the
forme
in relation to the positionof the joint of or last-length, the foot. Reducing it to a ratio of the last-lengthhas the forme-length;the former advantages over being preferable, in length with will vary because the forme the or
146
THE
MANUFACTURE
fittingof in
same
the
last,whereas
the
various
instance,one-fourth for women's
and
two-fifths basis for The rule
by
OF
the
for low
children's
AND
length of
fittingsof and
the
and
to
the
winged
vamp
is
expensive
squarer
cut
size.
same
for
high
one-third
instep-lineof
be
the
As
an
vamps, and
for low would
boy's work,
regulatingvamp -heights.* length of wing admits of more than vamp-heights,and should
approximation
SHOES.
last will
one-third
work, and
high, in men's
for
BOOTS
give a
definite
treatment
be decided
upon
the
A
pattern.
cut, and
by
long-
the
in
made-up of the foot,besides causing goods prevents the easy entrance much in and difficulty stitching.Vamps paste-fitting with short if the wings are cheaper to cut, especially material to be cut requiresa system, as Fig. 122 A. The curve, throat,or cue of the vamp should be designed in harmony with the style of toe of the last ; a narrow toe looking better with a smart, and a square toe with a should
be
The
curve.
the
tension
button-piece.Lower button
prevent used
lasts
on
that
caused
the
by
vamp
freedom
to
of
the
fastening
also for this
used
reason,
causing a tying tendency, to
work the
button-boot
a
little extra
a
are
vamps
other
or
abrasion
for
for
curve
designed easy, giving
counteract
upon
to
foot.
High
fall away
should
vamps
suddenly "
the
below
be
not
instep,
"
should be shover required,a fitting or taken used in making, and care not to springthe toe of the Vamps for derbies and similar designsshould not upper. be high, unless in the last to provision is made proper
but, if they are
cutting tendency
prevent any in the
and
E
E
pattern to balance below
standard
as
and
shown to
that
edge
*
that
of the
in
the
bind
to
by
Children's
"
that
tension when
deadening
work
should
not
be
the
be cut,
from
pulled
in
foot. when
toe as
of the
cut
a
It
a
rule, with
foot, the
on
pare (com-
vamp
standard,
lastingfrom would
cause
be
often
shape
of the
may
the
the
curve
fall at V
would
the
upon
effect of the
vamp
on "
edge
crease-line
would
Fig. 121,
"
of the
the
K, Fig. 121). The
K, and
remedied
"
very
low
vamps.
PATTERN-MAKING
of the forme
toe
line
VN
shows
is
AND
as
the
shown
in
GRADING.
Fig. 120,
crease-line.
Care
147
the
where
must,
dotted
however,
be
ro c\j
taken or
the
not
to
crease-line
will be too
upper
difficult to
put the
"
last in
"
at
below
tight round the waist.
the
the
end
edge
Vamps
of
the
toe,
of the last and may
be
cut
to
H8
THE
MANUFACTURE
interlock, and
advantage.
in The
OF
cutting extreme
small
this with
must
not
principle,and
long wings, only
areas
of
corner
be
this
SHOES.
is
the
wing
Fig.
123
of
great
may
be
124
FIG removed, but
AND
BOOTS
overdone.
it is
will
speciallyadaptableto
it often
requires some
trate illusvamps
sacrifice in
PATTERN-MAKING
AND
GRADING.
149
.0
J3f;
MANUFACTURE
THE
150
the
the
of
smartness
BOOTS
OF
shape
SHOES.
AND
full
effect
the
V
length
to
economy
desired.
of Designing.
Method
the
Fix
Join
(Fig. 120). The
of
It
p. 143.
where
and
It is the
economical
of
have
the
spread
cutting leather cut
EB
the vamp the
made
edge
toe.
has
are
springing leather increased
and
open, to best
vamps
by in
the
VED
to
for
to W
K
from
complete by
are
It
is
at
by
in addition line
xy,
toe
by
the
of that
over
the the
"
the
the
the
to
edge
a
in
half
DE
be noted of
amount same
vamp in
the
to, the BH.
in
the
standard,
are
vamp,
increase
amount
of
is
use
alluded
before the
the
boot that
shows
is observed
greater economy
interlocking,and
to
flat
are
sprung
it should
tracing shows
cut
"
are
The
twice
for
are
spring,and
shoe-standard.
is increased
dotted
that
convenient
so
to
also
used
standards
from
not
used
and
patterns of
poses. pur-
primary origin,no
spring,and
more
several
lining when
cut
the
central
length
and
advantage. Fig.126 on
with
decreased
VH,
work, if the vamps
that
the
from
flat
parallelto VD,
in vogue,
amount
of
The
then
vamp.
small
"dead," and
more
distance
the
foulness
lastingedge
at the
the
on
passes
its
owing
pattern
a
marked
as
line that
with especially
completed. Yamps
that
inch,
an
crease-line
line
a
distance
custom,
In fabric-lined
prevents
the
is resorted
Vamps
reasons,
toe.
fitted
and
draw
the
set, to
or
H
the
of
kind
lasts that
shows
of
at
of vamp.
old
an
give "draft,"
ABC,
latter,draw
downwards
Springing
dead,
the
crosses
sketching curve
"
locked,
through
this
measure
to
to be
attain
(Fig. 121),and
"
Y,
above
three-ninths
or
Y.
centre
stylerequired.
have
To
system.
it
find
to pass
W
wing
on by Fig. 121, and is described adaptable to designing circular or square
is
that
vamps
in the
made
be
may
two,
one,
line, and
a
of
is illustrated
This
from
with
and
Method.
Another
doubt,
this
the
according to
The
vamp
of the vamp
curve
distance
a
of
height
so
By cutting
upper that
is
extra
152
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
classes of trade
the
BOOTS
AND
interlocking goloshpossesses
SHOES.
economical
CD
^ O
advantages,but where
an
it cannot
unusual
amount
be
adopted of
for
high goloshes,or
lasting-over allowance
is
the
made, and be
not
cut
the
in the
finished dead
cutting between
the
be
taken
be
used, and the The
that
may
of the
excess
the
of a
be
Also
lend
last the
same
jointed
one.
case
space
as
Goloshes should
care
Bordeaux
greater than in
desired
for stout
About
one-fourth
being
made
for
of
of the
lasts,with to
depth
of
wing
calf
a
vamped
work, while of
inch
an
good proportion,
a
"
"
as
caps
with
AB).
Some
goloshes cut
to
enable
the
Method
instepsand heels, interlockingarrangements.
obtain
with
that may
a
very
be used
full-jointed
for
a
narrow-
allowance is large, as in lasting-over stout stout outsides,with etc., locking lining, only be produced to a certain height,viz. oneBD joint pattern width (see Fig. 124, where of
finished
the
low
the
is one-third
the
is
heights is
possible to If
goloshes can third
the
they are pulled to Fig.125, A.
vamp
themselves
it is not
the
work,
out,
Examine
lower.
Flat-toed, full-waisted not
leathers
found
such
for caps, etc.
cut
are
is also
usual
For
principle(c),but
supple
they
to. be
are
in
work.
vamped do
be
to
given
recommended,
utilized
golosh vamp
differences
same
is
spring.
difference
a
lighterwork in
such
trouble
the
to
interlocked.
upon
after
excess
is desired
pleats that
standard
only
height of
boot, and
so
used, cut
that
remove
when
wings being
sometimes
are
or
the
to
owing
wrinkles boot
153
joined goloshes for patents should
or
interlock,
to
lasting,and
height of golosh
average
Whole
maintained.
GRADING.
AND
PATTERN-MAKING
article to
lasts
require right "
to be
upper
present
a
square
and
left
"
properly lasted,and position.
I.
Having
determined
the
N (Fig. height of the vamp Divide NP into right angles to NT. Ill),draw NPat three the line equal parts, by B, S. Through R draw RX If a joined parallelto a line passing from P to W. from the whole he taken golosh is required, it may the point marked from golosh by making by the line that passes from the line M, Fig. Ill a line at 90" with This would RX. give an interlockinggolosh. "
"
MANUFACTURE
THE
154
Method
OF
BOOTS
AND
SHOES.
2.
Goloshes
designed
not
to interlock
should
have
the
The vamp-length marked. height of the back of the golosh may be determined or by the counter stiffening rules which have for been The line at depth, given. should be right angles to the crease-line of the vamp the one- third between drawn, and a midway distance *
one-half
and
the
fixes
other
standard. Method
of this end
Suitable
line,without of the
lasting-over allowance, Cut
out
with
an
golosh.
the
to
dead
for patents, etc.
3.
Fig. 125 show a women's thereon. golosh marked the height required. Draw
interlocking It is designed by indicating 0, CD at right angles to creaseJoin DE. G- is one-third line CT. GF of CD. is parallel The dotted line CH shows the folded to DE. edge of the paper used for cutting the golosh. If the golosh to the markings given, no would cut were room strictly for the knife the wings of be allowed between to pass the pattern when Further, the leather has cutting out. substance, and the
desired
the
folded
when
pattern
placed
point made edge of the
on
in
the
paper
positionwould paper, to
be
not
therefore
used,
at
reach
arrange a
suitable
cutting out the golosh pattern. This will give the requisiteclearance, etc. Method of cuttingand springing. Fig. 125, A, shows tracingsof goloshes cut to 125, and The there indicated outline. fixing by the chained-line which of a "pivot point" from to spring the golosh,so distance
from
before
shape of curve, is the This is often done by using C, Fig. 125, and first step. the folded by placing a needle-point through it, and beneath of which it is thus made a point,by means paper the wings are elevated, so that the top edge or range of wings is parallelwith the folded edge. This, however, it gives a golosh too long, and is not correct a as way, the golosh is fitted,does in front which, when curve a G not originallydesigned. Then represent the one is certainly is often selected a as pivot-point, and as
*
minus
This
to
would
retain
CH,
be
its correct
length
and
correctly expressed by five-twelfths
lasting-over allowance.
of
the
joint-line
GRADING.
AND
PATTERN-MAKING
point 3,* this point is
The
productive of a better-fitting golosh. When used. Fig. 125, is also sometimes adopted, a deeper golosh wing may nearly
one-ninth
take
the
the
paper
of
standard
The
inch.
an
and
produced,
be
best the
it upon
lay
155
is
process folded
to
of
edge
golosh,putting 0 and T (Fig.125) level with YXra (Fig. 125, A). Trace while in this position, C to 3 (Fig. 125). from T to D, and Place the needle point,or tip of the finger on G, and raise the wing until GF is parallelto OH, the folded from centre of front curve to 3, and thence edge. Mark to F.
be
to
Return
4
(Fig. 125)
F
on
the as
bottom
positionand use pivot,raising the wing until with F on the golosh, tracing.
coincides
back,
Proceed
the
the
to
second
a
and
(Fig.125, A).
cutting
standard
the standard
Trace
for
used
and for
first
golosh will be excessive spring in the
YXo??/
as a
similar
tracing as YXww (Fig.125, A) will be will now obtained. Seaming, stretching,etc., allowances be made, and the golosh cut out. See also Fig. 124. A is illustrated in Fig. 125, B, the golosh vamp dotted other cut one dead, the showing the vamp marked with cut spring, using S as pivot. It vamp, should be noted that the length round edge has been increased by the amount will be from V to P, which foul in lasting. and
manner,
"
"
The and of
effect of
golosh
Fig. 126,
a
be
may
Parts
of
circular
wing,
bottom
further
obviated
Standards
vamp,
The
is
represent, by KMNO, has From
by
been this *
a
back in
shown
as
whole-cut
line
a
found
front
strap.
crease-line
distance
point is
shoe
several
turned-in
equal
by taking
wKz to
from
Fig.
back
shoes, etc.),and
a
the
in
and
vamp,
fancy-cut inserted
drawn,
This
shown
applicable to
athletic,insertion
fastened
it
the
at
seam
by cutting
are
square
comment.
principlethat
canvas,
The
edges.
tightenthe top,
to
G.
Other
no
springing the golosh is
lengthen the
to a
a
G
the
The
goloshneed is
type of
a
designs (such is here
given
whole-cut After
amount distance
as
to
shoe, line wO
the
should
the
120.
be
made.
required GC.
156
THE
for
MANUFACTURE
turning-in is
NMK
is made,
of one-third
OF
marked
crossing the
from
the much
(indicatedby arrow).
The
the
proportion
line
from
Oiv
at
If canvas,
top edge.
variety is usually
standards, the volute 110, 125, 126 The
top
given to
the
the
Leather
upper.
is
varying directions,and the
different
thus
removing
is done
the
"
during
has
"
that
according
tops of
of the
the
adopted.
be
may
Figs.
rule.
in this
respect.
and
rendered
shoes, owing the
of
cut
to be
"
blocked
"
lasts,during the the
to
"
lasted
"
or
to
manufacture, which
with efficiency
superfluous expanding properties that if not
the
to
substance, possessingstretch in
of
curvatures
"Not
construction, and
flat
a
overlay.
draughting, is
of boots
their
in
employed
K0,
shape
done
be
may
Drafting,or
making
crease-line
geometrical construction,and
is of
what "
in
the
in
variety
a
Drafting.
necessary material
P, show
illustrate
Standard
made
a
curve
etc.,requiring
(Figs.117, 114) being
(Fig.126, P)
one
SHOES.
AND
the curve touch the instep-piece, may or instep-piece facing having a suitable
an
is
BOOTS
it
would
change in shape and measurement, making the goods unsightlyand uncomfortable. To counteract this "giving" property of wear
"
removed
cause
"
a
constant
leather,the upper is drafted during making, this operation from imparting a tension, strain, or draft in the upper counter
toe, that
to
to close
together when of the
weight
the
the
upon
tendency
from
removed
is transferred
body
is thrown
strain
insures
the
to the
the
upper,
of
the
last.
foot,and tension
upper the
When
the
thus
draft
or
prevents its undue yieldingand consequent loose fit. This tendency of the opposite sides of the upper to approach each
other
say, in the
is
usually tested
left hand
by
by taking
the
sole,and
the well-made then
with
boot,
the
right
alternately, gently pulling and
releasingthe leg portion
the boot.
boot
or
The
set
or
sit of the
depends
upon
of
this draft
tension. The
instances
pattern
operation of drafting by be ; but
assisted such
by
making
alteration
to be
the a
maker
may
in
modification
effective
must
some
in be
the
based
the
upon Much
is done
does
not
well
at
The from
to
in the this
stage
to
reduces
by
toe
the
series of
a
the
length of
from
counter
at the
back
this shortened
gives
the
make
this clear.
tension, the
ensures
assisted "
very
C
by dead
efficient
will
"
that
that it will be
fundamental
upper be
stuff" to
"
easy
or
tension and
a
to
When
principle.
127
the
upper,
draft. the or
The
to be
draft "lines
of
it will
last, but
also toe
there
somewhere
the
pull."
up
fore
seat
is
If the
upper
is
well, and
in the
will
This
draft
be
up
line A.
tight in
will
at the
impossible,to
not
a
strain
extra
be very
will
pulled
(Fig. 127)
pulled
along
of
replenished by
this
and
is
to that
is
upper
sketch
upper
if difficult,
springy
dispose of
FIG
pulls,in fact,
upper
the
length has
other
it is very
of the
bottom
from
When
draft, and with
correctlydirected
to toe.
stretch
taking extra
An
laster.
drafting
"
so
;
process
the
examine
length
it
of
the idea
least assist in the
the
adopted by
are
pattern with
a
157
longitudinal strain, produced by dropping the upper the seat upon inverted an last,and by pullingit well the
over
principlesthat
same
GRADING.
AND
PATTERN-MAKING
the
surplus part.
the
obtain waist. waist "
or
foul
THE
158
MANUFACTURE
It is not to do
work
some
manufacture.
by taking
to draft
necessary
for
so
OF
would
have
causing it is
effect of
the
undue
an
from
removed
be
erroneous
;
of the
the
the
from
pattern, gradually this
would
small,
too
when
Even
seat.
constructingthe pattern,
lesseningthe
its
done
be
not
heel-measure
instep to
to its
detriment
waist, because
forme, before
by
serious
a
seat
making
strain
the
at
SHOES.
adopted, must
off the
amount
an
AND
well-designedpattern,and
a
Drafting,when
diminishing to nothing only
BOOTS
from
measure
instep to
Y fr~
%.
#-^fc:
i^a
FIG.128. of the
corner
to
fit the
the
last In
affected.
heel, thus
a
because
from credit
from
last
on
the
amount
at the
instep
of the
top of
to
must
waist
the
reduce
properly.
the bottom of
shoe, an
will
this
measurement to
"too
left
instep and
causing the instep of the upper soon," the inclination thereby being with
be idea
an
taken
from
of
draft,"
"
and long-heelmeasure, joint making the upper
Sometimes
an
pattern of the
not
back
"
a
and
keeping
cult diffi-
is removed
amount
shoe
the
placed to the
the
transverse
160
THE
and
to
scollopedthey falls
pull round
should
the
be
placed
direction
the
to
near
catered
class of trade
the
that
the
fly is
not
the
over
to
be
pullingstrain that
instep to heel, so
from
quarter and
If the
for. so
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
they
instep.
FIG.129. To the
prevent the
curve
of the
curling of
front
the
edge
is altered
seam
clingingtendency imparted by
thus
of the in
button-piece
direction,and
a
springing the button-fly
Designing the Button-piece. After fixingthe height or depth of the vamp required Am divide the into three A, Fig. 128, as joint-width Am, from A equal parts, and at the division one-third mark
Divide
n.
distance cB.
The
that
t
the
heel-measure
cp is two-sevenths top of the leg of
is four-ninths
of
the
of the
line the
whole
cB
so
that
heel-measure
pattern is sub-divided
line
yz
measured
these
the
from make
so
y.
a Through points outline the the of buttoncurve forming proportion is also piece edge (see Fig. 128). The same in Fig. 129. shown
Connect
suitable
", p,
and
n.
to pass
PATTERN-MAKING
The should
not, in
boot. of
There
button
a
are
two
with
a
in better-class
machine),or,
graduated. Fig. former
scollopand
marking
(Fig.129) in
sharp as
as
a
lace
may or
work, the
shows
130
B
the
(hand
gouge
back
the
ways
scollopson button-piece. They
cut
and
boot, be quite
or
one
A
throat
arranging the
outlined be
the
at
curves
161
GRADING.
AND
method
of
out.
To
spring the Button-pieceand Scollopby Gouge. The
button
(Fig. 130)
is taken
shown.
as
of
point the
The
end
dotted from
to
a
a
lowered
as
shown
line. D
is said
to
and
gouge
shown
be
in
is
X,
and
to A
and
by the tracing is AX6,
sprung." test
Fig.
130
sured mea-
fine
When "
lined out-
A
at
The
to Y.
abed
amount
A.
is inserted
traced
so
and
spring required from
a
piece
-
it
on
continued
cYD
To the
FI"I30.
is cut
button-fly gouging select
out, the
complete for fly,and mark
by 1, 2, 3, 4, and
best
effect is
produced by arranging
that
they
increase
in
This
the
or
cut
out
as
5.
The
size from
and
to D
A
from
bottom
the to
scollops the
top.
accomplished by selectingthe and large and small sized scollops, sub-dividingthem in proportionfor the interveningscollops. The shape of the the former be circular or elliptical, scollopsselected may being the easier to graduate. graduation may
be
Graduating Scollops(circular). the button-piece taken from Fig. 131, abed, shows show the of amount The dotted line will Fig. 128. be scollops may prepared in a way spring." The smallest The similar to Fig. 132. by scollopis made line drawn of a compass, and at right angles means a "
M
162
to
the marked
semi -circle
drawn
first
equal
a,
them
b, c, etc., continuing
at
the
From
semi-circle.
of the
diameter
the
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
distances
are
of
number
the
to
the
construct
d as centre scollopsdesired, d. From the largest scollop. to the required size for it passes through the lines drawn AD, and where
of
These
first
button-fly by
the
to
be
scollops to
smaller
the
used,
and
it from
The
radius
the
This
from
point of
bottom
of the
smallest
circle
the
line
AB
X
is made
intersection
from
centre
the
of the
and
compass,
which
the
is
the
lengthening of
cutting. they may aluminium
The
When be as
the
is
the
way
up
each
future
by Fig.
button-flyliningmay,
in
of the
edge
the
fly
(Fig. 131),giving the scollop is constructed. the
button-bit,
semi-circle
the
for
taken
now
scollopand scollopshave once
preserved shown
fly(see AB, Fig. 131).
and
smallest
repeated the whole leaving a slight space between
for
radii
FIG. 132.
FIG. 131
marking
from
taking of
diameter
the
of
one-half
Join
applied direct
be
may
circle semi-
lops. scol-
remaining intervening
the
the
be determined
will
equal-spaceddivisions
the
of
centre
use
the
to allow
clearance
in
been
graduated by cutting out in
133.
for
economy
in
cutting,be
PATTERN-MAKING
seamed,
being
care
button-hole
is to
suit several a
stock
AND
used
not
to
If the
come.
GRADING.
have lower
163
where
seam
a
portion is
made
the to
sizes it enables
to be
cut.
Scollops the
in
reverse
principleto those shown in be used, and Fig. 132 may if
they
bold
made
not
are
too
adaptableto run and turn or bagged button-pieces. "
are
"
Inside
and
outside
should buttoned
"
"
be
made
patterns,the having
quarter
ters quarfor side out-
suffiFIG 133
cient
removed
front
allow
to
the
by
from
substance
Fig.
etc.
gives
for the of
the
displacementthat the
material
used
would for
be
the
caused
fly-lining,
134
tion illustra-
an
of this. Side The
Lace.
"
opening
the
inside
side-lace should
on
of
a
pattern
be situated
about
one
from
the
edge, and
inch sole should
incline forward
to
allow
to
be
the
foot
easilyremoved
and
replaced. The
side
lace,although
not
just
fashionable now,
is
FIG 134.
an
exceedinglyeasy
boot
to wear,
and
is the
pattern that
will
1
64
THE
exhibit
MANUFACTURE
the
ab shows
OF
skill of
the
Facings. "
the
Facings
side-lace
a
the
on
either
piece
the
designer
opening for
In
Fig. 129,
boot. of
outside
or
leather.
of
SHOES.
most.
stitched
be
AND
BOOTS
the
quarter
may
cut
from
thin
The
a
former
be
may
plainor fancy, and Fig. 135 shows a design for facing-marker. The marker (Fig,136) looks well on a plain-cutshoe. Inside facingswill present no difficulty in cutting. either
Markers
for
designing
shaping of
the
of
curves
primary pattern they
Vamp
assistingin
For
patterns.
numerous
be
may
standard
the
sometimes
are
of the or
used.
toe-cap outlines, golosh
curves,
and
shapes for designing the fancy-cut vamps (usuallyin the common trade),are also made. Fig. 137 gives a and few shapes used for fancy-cut vamps, curves,
K" a
scollopfor Elastic
pattern careful
Sides.
that
the
was
an
skill ; but
in for
below similar
the to
lower
the
may
be
great
line
The
amount
of the
web
of
the
having
curve
of the
Fig.
of
foot
The
the
the width
for
ingress
demand
be
be
preventing the
a
must
to
made
during the
at
elastic
throat
and
easy
use
the
upon
not
of the
made
to
pattern prevalent for lace should come gore or gusset
heel-measure, and ab,
pays
proper
too
line of the
that
consideration, so that
egress
curve
well
pattern
should
and
resemble
elastic-side
an
used
gusset, thus
pattern The
a
the
the
strands.
sidered formerly con-
was
task, requiring little
easy
attention.
provision
boots.
It
"
cuttingof
it is
of elasticity come
boot.
button
a
129.
be
This
pitchedforward, will
enable
the
PATTERN-MAKING
of the
strands
rubber the
falls upon
that
The
boot.
the
spring should with
angles the
web
the
during
the
line
be at
correctlyfits of
which
putting
strain
and
on
off of
of
rib.
the elastic-side
an
foot, to make
the
elastic
an
of the
direction
right
Assuming from
165
top line of
the
gore.
standard
lie in
to
front
the
GRADING.
AND
it
is to
pattern
the
adaptable to
side, one-ninth
of
inch
an
be
cut
ments require-
should
be
FIG. 137 taken
the
from
giving The
top,back
the
web
and
Derbies.
"
design,the
pattern for principalpoints to The
latchet,and material
the be
to
height of
shape
this from The
the
of the
width
third
of
the
width
of tab
be remembered
toe
end
toe
this
observed
vamp,
the
property. reference
by
to
on
There
that
the
of the
are
several
this
plan
vamp
may
method when
of difficulty
the
be
the
taken
is to made. foot
ways
its of on
one-third
position of
the
or
of the
be drawn
and counter-height,
of the
tion selectab
substance
line may
A
vamp.
joint-line. Another two-fifths
the
being
patterns, together with
will locate
tab
difficult to
not
width The
corners.
the
the
style is
be
variations.
deciding the height of from
of the
from
cut
nature, will demand
standard
its
to exert
be obtained
may
ment, measure-
Fig. 146.
of the correct
the
opportunity
an
principlesof designing
to p. 178
front,reducing it in
and
of
vamp. as
make
one-
the
It should
entering this
1
66
increased not
AND
great,if due provisionbe the joint of the foot ; and
of
passing in
BOOTS
is
of boot
kind
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
as
joint-width
the
only
a
correct
is
width
this
tab, but
This a
for
made
not
greater.
of
SHOES.
the
is difficulty will
correct
sitate neces-
height
of vamp. If
cutting
direct
to
forepartshould be marked vamp-height may also be to the
joint
table
of
give the height when Fig.
138
last,the
a
the
on
obtained
distances
greatest width
top of the
front.
by adding, say,
given
on
of the
one
p. 114, which
The inch will
made.
will illustrate
a
twofold
method
of
designing
1
THE
68
MANUFACTURE
BOOTS
OF
AND
SHOES.
goloshed derby is designed upon the same plan,only provisionmust be made to allow leg or quarter to pass to A
outside
of vamp.
provision should between
the
If be
outside
ethe made and
boot
is to
for the
be
leather
to stiffening
lining,because, unless
lined, due be
placed
the upper
PATTERN-MAKING
be very
stretchy or light,wrinkles boot.
made-up the
former
with
Caps
addition
of
should
be
similar
seamed
; unless
of the
used a
quarter. For inside
better
Lining
and
upper,
leather.
the
cuttingup seams,
the
stiffeners
(where
spring in them,
liningshould
to
put on
for mode
foul material
Lasting
and
the
back be
gives
advantage
in
Cutting-out. allowances
as
leather
of
making, be
when
for
linings, such
as
with
a
cut
Shoe
made.
at the
seam
a
or
during
This
to
with
not, for comfort, have
Seams, Underlays,
contraction
linings should
prevent
buttoned
a
quarters should
such
necessary,
Whole-cut
etc.
be
made
be
little extra
a
over,
Fig. 134.
chapter
and materials), non-stretching
sewrounds,
in
with
standard
placed at
two
can
See
should
Patterns
be
boots
outside, as shown
and
fit to
buttoned
will
straight,
foot, while
the
from
for the
closing. A seaming-allowance
the
wider.
quarter
quarter, to allow
in
or
narrow
a
front, especiallyif
the
on
of
produced
are
found
pointed
to be
appear
underlay
given
either
169
be
would
appearance
the latter it would Patterns
be
may
the
giving
Quarter the
GRADING,
AND
back.
Allowances.
SEAMS.
Light top-band seams Glaces, gloves,kid, etc Levants,
stouter
.......
.
................
"
kids, calf,etc
Kips, stout levants, Fabrics, all kinds
inch. 3'2 ,'g
.......
calf, etc
stout
-an
.............
I
..........
"
\
..................
"
UNDERLAYS. of
Light leathers, single rows double
stitching
.........
\
"
g
"
rows
"
Stouter
leathers "
............
"
punching derbies, punching,
............
"
"
"
etc.
...
...
...
f
"
|
"
LASTING.
Sewrounds, glaces,etc ,.
fabrics,machine-
"
Machine-sewn, "
Discretion
etc.
.........
welted
foreparts
riveted
seats
"
"
should
T3g \
................
patent, handsewn,
stouter, from
be
given
......
......
" f
.........
to the
g
nature
of the
"
,,
"
"
n
leathers
1
used:
be
to
made
not
do
work
is
considered.
The
"
cutting
There
of
is
be selected
requirements, but chief
portion
no
made, that
is
adaptable to
of
of the
from
should
be
else it is difficult if not heel.
is
The
excessive
bespoke.
lasts throws
the throat
A
arch boot
of the
feature that
suitable the
shape, etc.,that
the the
suitable
often
for the
foot, fit
a
good
of
factory-
present
these
in
of its correct
out
The
average.
of the faults
usuallyone
formation con-
only measures
impossible to produce
This
a
only
care.
not
departure waist
making
pattern-making
or
also
cause
arch
the
leather
tinny
is the
discretion,thought,and
last should
springor
comfortably
patterns for bespoke
of
often
much
made
and hard, stiff,
given measurements
requiresso
across
be
may
usually empiricallyperformed,and to
is the
SHOES.
to have.
Patterns.
Bespoke
that
allowance
an
would
soft, yielding leather
a
with
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
70
relative
position. It would
be difficult to arrange
not
constructingbespoke patterns,based
of
and
required well
to be
here
another
to
apparatus the
latter
of course, the
that
refer
foot
p. 64,
on
would
type
of
a
peculiarconditions. a
low
instepwill have Again, the front
back
p. 15
high instep (see a
rule,larger in
same
ankle
a
low
dimensions, and is
thicker,and
it with
experimental of
of 45".
angle
furnish
40.
These
are,
mind
with
to cope
with
the
have
35", while
a
high instep will have large angle with the ground,while
a
smaller
A
foot
line
perpendicular
the
angle
system that would
makes
be
by X, Fig.
by
will
but
cases,
It would
contrast
illustrated
an
are
as
.
registeran
show
variations
and
Fig. 39,
quirements, re-
average
needs.
would, if measured
shown
that
in
type of foot
requirements
heel-line
X
to
system
or
upon
such
to suit individual
extreme
a
enable
would
made
extreme
former
The
a
method
a
in and
of a
with
angle.
the
leg
is
instep Fig. 107).
in the
in
a
distant
more
than
low
instep than the
a
The
is found heel
is
more
of
in
a
also,as
higher instep of
higher instep type
leg and calf
from
the
foot the
developed.
The
PATTERN-MAKING
a
flat foot
farther
being
with
rendered
comparatively
similar
to
In
absence
the
that
little
a
will
whether
be
foot
pattern for
40", and
about
of lasts
the
the
usual
last
these
(which
being
the
bottom
were
was
foot
waist in
arched
drawn
on
the
given
plan, i"
A
38", the average
establish
the A
follows.
number
measured
The
p. 114.
on
of TH
in
(the length round
the
the
top
joint positions
shown
as
system
coverings.
over) were
determined
covers
may,
flat.
or
surface-area
tacked
were
J is one-third
be
(see Fig. deciding
proportions; the joint positions on those
p. 83, where
as
fitted with
and
with
adopted.
draft-
the
from
to
obtained
are
a
42". used
are
be
estimation
broad,
or
from
lasts
on
from
flat foot will be
a
arched
taken
were
covers
line
narrow
that
would
style of
indicating the the
more
last
a
of foot
could
Fig. 54,
assist
described
the
of the
A
of
proportions that to be
Upon
taken
is
practical method,
the facilities,
of such
precaution be draft 49). The
The
in
with
foot, so
require
some
experience,be judged
the
the
type
if
easy
illustrated
the
last and
than
of the
recording
them
last the waist
a
heel-angle would
40"
The
43".
in
is thinner
comb
say,
that
be noted
the
and
to
from
foot,
foot is
the arched
while
ground,
the
with
varies
ground
experimentsand comparing
these
making
arched
with
the
nearer
the last,it should
42"
the
171
away.
In
foot
from
the ankle
height of
GRADING.
AND
Fig. 60,
of the
lasts
last).
connecting
bottom
top and
When the covers joint-positions. removed and laid flat upon the cutting-board, the were obtained. angle of the jointline to the base was average fixed by joiningthe end of the Similarlythe toe-line was to the Zas"-length, the seat-end marked from cover upon the base line. The table of allowances given on p. 125
used, and
were
in
examining
that
as
the
the
relations
joint girth of
when
laid
and
the rule
flat,was was
It
'average obtained.
an
thus
of these
the
distanced obtained
last
was
also
surface-area
observed,
coverings,
increased, so the toe-line,
farther for
from
the
base
fixing this point on
line, the
172
MANUFACTURE
THE
pattern. trouble
enable
To
as
illustrated
in
data
these
to
which based
has
be
AND
used
SHOES.
with
as
little
designed,and
to
be
is
useful
is
Fig. 141.
Constructor.
designing of Being
BOOTS
possible,a specialtool
Pattern
from
OF
a
"
This
tool
to
bespoke pattern, especiallywhen
the upon
upper
will
average
be
made
cannot
requirements,
be it may
aid
the
the
last
obtained. also
be
PATTERN-MAKING
used
when
the
being
made
last is
; ab
made,
c
is
is made
It may
7
from
173
in. X
of
zinc, German
be obtained
y 4
from
At
6.
from to
tions deduc-
or
specialrequirements.
13, in. long.
being
is 8 in., and *
*
GRADING.
obtainable, the additions
to suit the
tool
The
AND
right angles
The
in.
Messrs.
distance This
nium alumi-
silver, or
will
Chapman
"
to
from make Hall.
this
be is
b to X y
equal
174
in
length, when
From
T
a
would
is situated
the
of
11
to
-|in.
1,
are
make one-shoe
top is If in.
BOOTS
The
an
as
of
shown
made
and
angle
of
size
AND
6 to
from
divisions
X
from
distances
line at
measured
towards
b
numbered
y
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
size
-f in.
11
adult's
last.
are
made
and
in illustration.
numbered. 50" with
(|-in.)from
joint line
SHOES.
from
ab a.
X
From
The
toe-
continued. From
is made
T at
to an
176
Method
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
of using the constructor. Upon a suitable sheet the
laid,and
two
lines
for
placed
next
is
marker
until
placed
the
Keeping
the
height
adult the
on
division
reaches
Y
the
that
so
are
the
drawn
SHOES.
at
of the
is
constructor
right angles
required is deductions are previously alluded to is of the forepart). The constructor
thickness
the
AND
of paper
cb ; ba,
b the
(Fig. 142). From measured (making
BOOTS
8
base
in
size 8
heel
at
the
back
height of the heel this position,lower
line ab.
This
of
the
marked. the
is letter J
tool
(Fig.
FIG. 145. The
142).
tool
is made
to
coincide
at
Y
with
J,
and
the to the base line a", and portion is lowered of the joint line indicated While direction Fig. 143. the eight length is marked the in this position, off from the tool moved front of the tool, and backwards along the
back
ab until level
the
with
of
bottom the
the
(see T, Fig. 141)
is
tool is The Fig. 143. b (Fig. 141) is on the next placed so that the corner height of heel positionS (Fig. 144), and the base passes The direction of the heel through J. (here 42") is shown in Fig. 144. lines TJZ" ; Js; marked off as The
8,
as
shown
toe-line in
PATTERN-MAKING
AND
Ttf; Jn; bsc in Fig.
sH;
The
completed.
now
width
less from
J
of
to
n.
o, the
it from
through
measure
towards The
toward
Lines
drawn
found.
joint girth
By taking one-half point t is obtained.
X.
in
will
145
measure
H 6
one-half
F,
to
top edge
XH
and
stages
measuring half- heel
of Hs
is indicated
base
to
last,
marked
the
the
X
of the tool
s
centre
from
the distance
and
From
perpendicular to and
the of the
of Jn
The
H.
177
illustrate
tread, is taken, and
the
is marked
measure
GRADING.
6.
db
are
From
X
point 2 will be (L, Fig. 141) is placed
FIG. He
(the height of pattern required) and the edge (db,Fig. 141) kept level with cb (Fig. 145). The line F6c is then is repeated at point 2, and This drawn. the line 1, 2, 3 drawn. The points 1 and 3 are found for by using one-fourth of the ankle-girthmeasurement 6
on
either half
an
side inch.
One-half 5
and
of 2.
Connect
either 7
From
straightlines,as
4
side of
(Fig. 145). shown
3 s.
6
The
to
4
The of the
measure
centre
leg points may
in the
a
of 4
measure
be
constant 8
is
of
point 8.
will
give
connected
by
illustration,preparatory N
MANUFACTURE
THE
178
positionmay here
at
Designing will be for is
a
the of
34"
in
from
with
necessary
SHOES.
The
curves.
the
by drawing
Elastic-side
ladies' size 4
remaining 42"
be found
AND
instep
long-heelmeasure
to Js.
an
illustrated
(measured
of the
formation
the
to
BOOTS
OF
Fig. s)
The
146.
of
heel-line
The
pitch-linesJ.
the
for
line
length
first
The
"
pattern and
of the
third.
Pattern.
a
sH
a
description high heel, and
Js
is
two-thirds
4's last ; and
J 'a is
is made
angle
at
ankle
The
is
an
found
as
FIG 147
described
in
leg,except than
the
After
the
the
curves,
that
previous paragraph, also it is made ^ in. less at the
measurement
of one-fourth
measurements
of
points and
the
thus
the outline
obtained,
be as
The
top of the leg 1, 3 is divided
2, 3,
4
into obtain
in
Fig. 147).
four the
The
equal parts, and centre
of the
the
line N
connected shown into N
from to
gusset
D
is
connect
top
of the
and
front
back
leg
joint heel, etc.,have
should
located
of
the
measure.
been with
made, proper
in the illustration. four to
s
parts (referto is also divided of these.
one
2
with
D.
To On
PATTERN-MAKING
either
side of D
with
the
will
be
the
AND
mark
sub-divisions shown.
To
it
where
the
correct
crosses
of for
pattern
this
P, which
is the
the
that
line The
By joining
will
ee
147
with
2
shows
is the
elastic
an
in
s,
D
to
explain
difference
the
heel, and
from
passes
Fig.
HO,
of
centre
diagram
pattern.
lower
a
ee*
obtain
top of the leg,the gore-line the position of the bottom of
obtain
position.
remainder
179
of the
crescent, connect
and
in. and
f
GRADING.
and
curve
also includes The illustration positionshould be noted. shoe this system. the designing of a garibaldiand upon The height of the front is regulated by V. The top of the line T is connected with V by a straight line which passes to A.
This Make
vamp.
guide
in
H.
A
line
TS,
may
be
in the
line the
of
the
of
in
measures
to
the
etc.,the
vamps, and
If men's
the
of
for do
to
various
an
will
give
a
by taking
from
over
the
crosses
the
shoe
length of
CD,
pattern
has
half
Fig. 120.
as
standard
or
patterns have reproduce the be which
should
this
of
the last
the
made.
features
of the
to
set
is intended.
be
simple, yet In scaling
trade.
the
between
to be
adaptable the
parts round
it
below
find the
To
way.
inch
an
top of the
the
of the
" in each inch
of
needs
difference
work, mark
t Seven-ninths
must
of
J
gives,where
measurement
various
distance
is
inch
one
initial
set
selected
grading, the
*
the
scale
adaptable
usual
series of
or
P
proceed
the
in
method
last
the
standard, and
The
this is found
B
curve
take
After
of
P to D
C, and
set
line.
The
x.
vamp,
direction
or
B, and
to
the
be
dotted
in
completed
produced, a
lasts
A
shown.
may
point
Every pattern
or
curve
passing from
"
the
the
in the
Grading. been
from
shoe
the
shown
wing
line
of
line
crease
or
this plan by produced upon and connecting this with height required,!
A
"
S
making
of
a
fold
of VC.
Shoes.
as
represents the
making
one-third
T,
line
standard
such
as
length-lineof
the
should
be
side of the one-fifth
gusset central line, of the instep girth is
fully
mended. recom-
i8o
THE
OF
MANUFACTURE
AND
BOOTS
SHOES.
The
length of the last,on the size-stick plan, is measured by taking the shortest distance through the in grading parts the ratio of the part to the last, and last should be originalor standard strictlymaintained. If an through the last, then the imaginary cut be made relation of the proportion to the length of the last,or the understood.
distance measured
in
their
must
be
start
on
their
length,should
the
is
make
entirety
proportionedto axial
pattern, which This
remembered
be
round, may
the
line, but
do
shoes
from
of the
last,and the
that
EF, would The
AB.
ratioed round of
the
point.
therefore
The
line
from
what
will
the
last. be
to
patterns graded, the
assist
is the
has
that
desire
from
cut
AB
Parts
standard
the
standing under-
length-lineof
been
said it follows
vamp-height or depth CD, and the golosh depth be regulated by the proportion it is of the line the other hand, be vamp-wing V would, on
not
the
by
the
last from
standard To
be"
this
line
round
the
the
axial
the standard
if the
study
parts
throughout
length of
boot originalor standard pattern. The diagram, Fig. 148, like
last.
distance
to
made
boots
or
the
continue
not
the
that
imaginary
to the
be ratioed
important point
an
this
on
length of
the
represents
by noting
but
length-lineAB, A
to
by
B, corresponding
pattern without
put the parts affected
the in
the to
the
lastingover
tabular
distance
length ance. allow-
form, it would
PATTERN-MAKING
PROPORTIONED
BY
AND
LAST
THE
GRADING.
PROPORTIONED
BY
LENGTH.
great obstacle The
alluded
cap).
Stiffeners
(lengths). goloshes (lengths). openings.
Back Shoe
in
regular gradation
to
breaks
and
lengths (vamp
Wing
patterns is the irregularlast-measurements factories.
STANDARD
THE
LENGTH.
Vainp depths. Toe-cap depths. Stiffeners (depths). Back goloshes (depths). Shoe heights at back. The
181
between
of
calculation
to, require the
in
sizes
the
upper
in many
use
of the
some
the
already For
cutter.
instance, if the grading of the heel girth according to of these
modifications 5
men's
The
J
of
irregular scales in
and
grade
of
grade
the
of
size
same
would
f
then
be
inch
an
attempted,
be
measurements
far
-fyas
the
as
size
the
between
be
youths', would
in
one
size 2, it
" in"
being
less at this break. There
them
are
do
methods
many
give
not
in
in
use
others
results, while
correct
empirical that they depend entirelyupon obtained.
results
apparent
them, it will be well selected
for the
lasts
a
the
on
small
joint and
width
various
Before
parts of the of sizes increase
range
instep girths,and
increases
anc^ the
^2
grade for the upper arranged as follows :
that
waist
portion
of
the
Total
grade grade
Increase
an
the
tread
^g, the
inch
J of
then
to
pattern
Increase
half
With
-Jto
the
like
manner.
The
a
top
the
between bottom
or
the
obtain
it should
be
portion
size to
the
leg.
heel
girthand
For
other
Instep.
\ in. ^,,
...
Jin. T's
T25
"
...
fg
"
Tj
"
...
fa
"
pattern
of the
be
J
...
to the
dimensions
"
ankle, and
proceed in
Comparative System of grading is useful in supplying
patterns some
of sole at
to the
of
"
of last at
to upper
so
are
for any
user
Joint.
Total
of
examining some what grade should pattern. Suppose
understand
to
trade ; many
the
to
part
or
complete other
those
already
missing.
in existence
It is also
that
adaptableto
have obtain
182
MANUFACTURE
THE
of
a
set
a
standard
if used
of
illustrated
the
system suitable conjunction with
in
some
Fig.146
other
Modus
is
system, owing
obtainingtwo
147
or
of lasts from found
are
for
grading patterns,but
some
that
It is a
in
SHOES.
AND
variations
many
of measurements
scale
establishments.
that
suit
patterns to
patterns
BOOTS
OF
; it is
a
the
some
scalingchildren's such
system
as
method
good
very
usually discarded to
in
favour
in
of
experienced difficulty
patterns exactly alike
in
in
general character.
operandi. After
the
been
have
parts suitable
first.
make
After
the
out, put
stencil
a
the
smaller
that
also the
points on lines.
If
the
marked
on
the
shown
as
patterns
must
positions
of
grading
Fig. the
taking for
marked
will
and
marked,
Similar
149.
with be
measures
not
two
be
to
connected
be
now
of
largest
been
first
one
in
be
the
position as
a
standards, this
two
the
difficulty.If
the
sheet
a
has
other
or
marking
"
such
in
one
round
two
on
larger pattern
readily distinguished from trace
them
obtained, lay
to
paper
pattern
standards, quarters, vamps,
two
afford
parts,
any
such
as
should be connected Fig. 149, then the corners o?XO and zZO, as shown, producing them as will The meeting in point O. point of intersection whole for making radial lines for the give th^ centre
WXYZ
in
the
of
back
found
the
for
the
two
parts
as
there
also tfT in the
The a
a
pattern, leavingthe addition various correct
line
or
to
will
the
similar
be
by keeping by cutting
same
sub-divided
into
intervening. figure,
See
sixteenth extra
on
of the
an
inch
toe
to make
When
are
made
the
knife
under
to
make
either
where
the
to
is
lines
for
the
put round the
the
increase
be
to
necessary
cutting out, it
the
positionson as equal many Xa?, Fig. 149 ;
System of grading is supposed
pattern's length.
alterations
the
sufficient
the
is
centre
After
y.
considered
between
the
way
and
w
sizes
are same
One-Sixteenth
system whereby
be
may distances
patterns
a
between
curve
the
purpose,
In
z.
that
joined
are
to
x
the
approximately outside is too
of the
great.
1
84
MANUFACTURE
THE
springdividers for the
data
:
being equal
Jf "/-"-"This will be -""$, length,J in. girth,and the ankle of
distances
set to
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
,
size in
one
to the
joint.
Method. Take the
throat
the
the
throat
down
the
other
bottom.
the
throat
the
top,
"f
Leave
;
From
-"%.
along
~
of
top
the
as
compass
Put
~.
along
the
sizes. of the
at
This
is known
error
its
alter
not
the
position for
among
it is defeated
of
of the
many
by
various
means,
given under.
is
Take
the
largesizes,while joints are also out
The
long.
and
same
throat, giving the
the
to
the
patterns
for the
instep does
system,
of which
leg
appearance too
the
leaves
the
of
top
look
sizes
position,and
one
toe
system
patterns a stumpy
various
mark
far
as
the
from
toe.
from
smaller
the
with
and
hack,
sixteenth
length
users
the
and
y^,
mark
distance
mark
to
the
the
this
to
set
compass
with
leg
at
The
the
in. in the
~
and
compasses
mark
the
up
front,
the the back, and from seat to along the top, down size less the the of the to toe one joint. Add Join toe to the joint. Place standard graded standard. one pattern half size away from toe of the newly marked ~
and
from
seat
is left the
top the
of the
the the
on
be
curved in front
-^
One-Fifteenth
mark
the
back,
Leave
counter.
the
at
-~
-^
or
from
~
the
it
volute
or
of the
System consists
compasses
in and
leave
back
is very
-^
the
on
front
curve.
similar
to
taking one-fifth of then marking that
the
one
size
a
amount
the
size less
To
the
above
swell
and
seat
standard
""
and
(fa in.) in
similar
marked
the
Eaise
instep to throat, graduating to the front if the front of the leg,and on leg. Leave
described, and round
joints.
of the
top
curve
The
the
correct
Add top, back, bottom, and up the front. -fa in. to the toe, correcting the joints in a
to the
grade
one
described
vamps
on
one
way
above. these
systems
make
a
line
-fa
PATTERN-MAKING
from
folded
a
end.
Take
level
with
and
piece of the
mark
to
then
lower
the
paper,
the bottom
portion. are
different
the
In
the
marked
first method the
upon from
the
taken
and
traced
is added
in. at the
toe on
These
amounts
in the
as
heel
instep, J
standard
his
work
of
"Last
pattern
is taken
toe
end
toe
| in,
standard
the
toe-line
the
heel,
and
while
in
top
first mark this
and
that
doing
bottom. first
this
is level
position mark the joint. Now shift lowering the appears,
lower
ruled A
of paper,
Shift dot
on
the
and
from
the
top
until
as
paper until
is the
outline.
visible, toe
at
When
toe-line
until
the
second on
as
towards
the
first
dots
far
of
the
now
While
the back
the
the three
pattern
traced
back
line
is
the
the
standard
upon line is
From
standard
The
with
the
is
and
Pattern
through on the paper. round positionmark
this
the
ankle.
marked.
are
marked.
marked is in
so
in. -""
suitable sheet
a
the
this horizontal
On
to toe.
also
joints,
"
separate
is
standard
the
the
two
the
and
ankle.
counter
an
points.
joints,toes, instep,heel, and
placed upon in the
at
lines
from
of
line, and
at
and
also drawn the
-g-
Fitting
The
from
|
line
line from
the
shiftingsystem,
:
the
is
are
is then
One-ninth
heel, and
follows
it at
in
a
pattern
and
used
Cutting something as standard
use
and
toe-counter
various
type upon
"
get
placed to the credit of pattern is completed by using
the
is another
to
and
The
to connect
The
of the
the
pattern
centre,
paper,
grade
divided
are
the
in
^
length of
the
of
standard.
the
at
respectiveparts.
described
vamp
empiric.
each
of
end
The
the
Hannibal's
the
standard
the
counter.
sheet
a
end.
toe
the
front
with
of the
the
curves
at
the
to
at the
"/Q at
the
standard
drawn
counter
inch
throat
using
the
put
half -size to the
curve,
right-hand
is level
toe
being employed by
ruled
the
and
Shifting Systems of grading in
many
localities
Put
185
at the
\
graded the
the half- wing.
There
mark
while
complete
f
be
GRADING.
% mark,
and
wing
and
paper,
vamp
the
of the
crease
AND
the
to
dot toe
1
86
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
traced
touches
the
Again
shift
of the
back
standard,
to
the
out
if
pattern
joint. Cut
until
the
appears.
the
as
of
and
\
in. is shown
the
with
of the
toe
instep. Shift from instep to
the
to
line.
horizontal
distance
bottom
the
lower
then
ankle,
far
dot
second
instep.
instep to the top in. Shift again until top of the leg. Trace
the toe in line the
dot
the
trace
satisfactory,
System is practisedunder
Geometrical
The
as
Mark
outline.
traced the
back
instep, keeping
the
at
standard
the
Lower
the
the
as
third
to
~
the
to
far
as
trace
top.
throat
joint
the
from
SHOES.
AND
from
until
also the
the
from
the
down
Mark
standard
Trace
leg.
is shown
line.
positionmark
this
in
While
the
BOOTS
several
names
Radial, Parallel Rule, Tool, SetProportional, but in principle etc. Square,Sector, Proportional-Compass, results exactly are The is the same. same produced by such
"
the
as
"
all these
instruments, and
derived
from
the
grading
width
101, if the
to
corresponds machine
underlying
understood, enabling the
system
also to the result
described be
adjustments *
truth
mathematical
it
set
this to
on
to
be
The
zero.
method
99
pp.
should
adapted
to
be
many
graded upon the operations with intelligence.Patterns geometric or proportionalsystems have all the parts scaled in true proportion. If the ratio of the joint,instep, heel, ankle, leg,height,etc.,be expressed in terms of the lengthline,then alluded
all the
words, the
be
will
to
preciselythe same grade is always in
in of
amount
above
the methods
patterns produced upon
In
ratio. the
other
ratio to
same
length-unitincrease,as the proportionexistingbetween this it will be length and the portion graded. From
the the
readily deduced the
that
the
greater the grade. where
custom,
for all
used
the
larger the fittingof
But
same
this does
unit
fittings.The
of
conform
not
grade
the
is
pattern to trade
supposed
patterns graded upon
to
the
portional pro-
system in its strict applicationis usually found be in *
Euclid
from
error
The and
demonstration the
sixth
the
lasts at the of this theorem
proposition.
instep; will
be
and
found
the in
the
be
to
top of the sixth
book
of
PATTERN-MAKING
leg is
scaled
in
AND
different
a
unit
GRADING.
than
is
187
customarilyadopted.
taken the various measurements at which are positions proportionto the length and the lengthare also graded in true of the system may be understood unit used. The application of an by taking an example, with a standard upper. The
the
Take set
a
from
which
it is desired
and
geometric method,
the
on
standard
trace
grade
to
its outline
with
F 16.ISO a
fine line
C, D
E,
on
is the
towards
sufficient number
sheet
a
pattern. the
length beyond
point
is
that
it is best
AE,
and
to cut
as
are
the
to make
the
point
many
standard
the
to
now
little where
matters
line
of the
toe
of sizes
radial
of paper as Fig. 150, where A, B, Make the counter-height a line from
A, continuing it
pattern
to mark
thereon
a
the
required in grade. A central be in principle it found, and point is placed; but for convenience it
some
selected
of the
curves
fractional should
part
also
of the
be
of the venient con-
pattern
as
1
88
THE
MANUFACTURE
OF
BOOTS
AND
SHOES.
sharply as possible. This will usually be attained by of the length AE E from selecting the point one-third then (seeG, Fig. 150). A shoe size (ifEnglish measures, \ in.) is to be divided into the same proportion as the line, and
toe-counter
E
and
In
to
the
150
size is
whole
\ in., and results
compare
on
the line from
the
toe
which
it is intended.
drawn
at
mark
a,
as
Connect
etc.
the
when
to the At
paper
of
as
with
cut
the
constructed This
standard
A,
a
line
for Aa
is
A, in the direction
required,1, 2, 3,
are
E, to
E, for
done.
the
say
From
sizes
of
(Fig. 151) is equal in length to
end,
to AE.
been
been
of paper,
one
be
required.
in. for
^
of
line AE
A
counter
points
has
credit
now
has
outside
sizes
the
to
what
shoe
many these
other
tool should
piece
right angles
placed
-|in.,making
follows:
as
separate
a
A
with
tool is made
drawn
at
radial
A
for the
placed
amount
increase.
radial
of
subdivisions
A, repeating them
Fig.
each
the
the
illustrated,and
as
lines 3E, EA,
and
FIG.151. Aa, it is ready for radial tool
centre
To
use,
G, in Fig. 150, and with
level
use.
the
line AE.
put
lay Where
the the the
end
E
edge
AE
toe, A,
at
the
of the crosses
(Fig. 151), H/i gives the grade from A (Fig. 150). Lines radiating from G will be drawn through the principalpoints desired to be graded (see Fig. 150, GB, GO, GD, etc.). If continuing to use the radial tool,the E end of it should be placed upon the radial centre G,
at
and
H
where
the the
portion
of
distance
of the
base-line
pattern
crosses
to
be
the
radial -line
graded,
the
at
the
transverse
of grade. give the amount If the pattern be prepared as described above, and the the amount from of proportionalgrade be marked in Fig. 150, the remaining points points AE, as shown be found without using or making the radial tool. may the the After from radiating lines have been drawn G the various to centre points required, a set-square tool will
be
may
used
B, C, D,
at
the
Place
etc.
while
straight-edge
to
the
slide
the
Then, where radial
the
Instead
of
One laid in
the
the
on
the
rule
to
the
top
half
the
rule
fully care-
point already required grade will give the same the parallelrule,
the
set- square,
but
it is not
the
or
tool,
radial
convenient
so
to
use.
trated illus-
proportionalcompass, by Fig. 152,
instrument
is
the
to
be
can
for the
Fig.
6 in. be
a
here
method If
150.
the
One of the points used grade previously marked be used. two points may
a
line AE
each or
grade
to
used, it will
to divide
useful
very
pattern cutter,
applied
amounts
in
any
be
to
the
exactly as
The
the
and
fingers put portion of from moving;
it
will
sector
results
*
C
as
given. A
of
be
the
of the to
found, and
the
should
bottom
keep
moved
a
employed.
rule
and
Fig. 150,
firmly
be
points, such
the
to
new
set-square
may
of
edge
crosses
B, the
the
parallel rule
'0
is found.
grade
of
amount
of
is reached.
at A
from
it to
one
set- square
line
and
paper,
until
"
the
hold
keeping
"
as
square,
the
set- square
a
venient con-
Firmly
straight-edge graded divisions
the
and
set
Fig. 150. straight-edgeto
the
be
one
in
shown
of
put
other
of the
side
E
relation
this
in
side
points* of (Fig. 150),
AB
as
189
grade
one
two
to
pattern, such
and
the
obtain
to
set-square
the
GRADING.
AND
PATTERN-MAKING
time
trated illuscompass
be
sary neces-
into two
must
have
found, otherwise
FI6.I52,
MANUFACTURE
THE
igo
OF
BOOTS
equal parts,instead of the usual of larger size be used, compasses from
depart
to
the
loosen
and
the
rule
nut
C,
the
standard
legs
ab shall span
nut
should
AB
are
then made
(Fig.150), and
is
but
adapted
it retains
conforms
the
sets
span
to
of lasts that
unit
have
of
grading.
measurements
should
method
to
the
legs db, the required
other
prevent
the
the
upon
various
breaks
in
trade
them, it is
method
A
of
table the
size-stick of
measurement
used
be
to
valuable
very
described
one
the
positions
principle.This
different
places the on
the
on
toes,joints, the standard
following mode
the
then
graded,
a
from
made
pattern. The positionsof instep,heel,ankle, and leg being indicated about
measurements
the
as
the
on
geometrical
locatingthe positionsof
adopted, such
be
better still,a p. 114, or, the back from located on
last and
GA
as
and regularityof appearance, If it be thoroughly understood, it grade,English or foreign,and for
on
will
line,say
the
lasts.
for any
be used
compass it until the
remove
radial
any
the
by using
used, while
can
to
adapted System is founded
method,
the
is found.
grade The
be necessary
not
Take
trial
pair of
a
legs AB is equal to the length of the time (Fig. 150), and at the same the number of sizes to be graded. The be fastened rather tightly. The legs
AE
then
if
But
it will
down.
by
and
three.
SHOES.
the
between
distance
laid
AND
will
be
: "
Carefully mark of paper
sheet
making the previously on
be not
taken
it is
method
to
the a
across
the
imperative
pattern table
and
pattern
that the
For
last.
last
be
to
are
graded,
have
that
Select
this
ment measure-
identical,even
of location-distances.
been
in
accuracy
positionsof
the
suitable
a
upon
recommended,
as
from
standard
of the
outline
an
lines
the
round
a
if it
suitable
(which is usually either the seat of the and from this point pattern or the counter-height line), radial lines ; *in Fig. 153 will be the point selected draw this point draw the for the present description. From radial the central line Aa, and from point also make point as
centre
*
*
the
line to C.
From
A
mark
either
side
as
many
sizes
as
MANUFACTURE
THE
192
same
This
illustrated has
is the
line
obtained
in the
in
made-up
boot
a
it adds
but the
round
upper
an
is
toe
extent
the
shortened, very
often
in
the
last.
Another
of the
front
upon
the
the
bottom
in of the vamp
Blocked
fronted
curve
of the
is the
case,
way
this
patterns
Remedied.
the
the
be
often
the This
laster
in
are
error
toe
of the
makes
short
better
draft.
when
upper
front
are
not
way
of
of the
down often
the cut
that
the
the
be of
front
seam
bottom is
waist
is
tight
off the
straightening
throws
strain
a
the
increase
length
lasting.
If not
remedying
the
golosh caused front
to
reverses
acute
of
done, over-
falling through
of the
pattern.
in the front
blocking pattern,and remedied by adopting in a at
with
matter
a
when
and
curved
vamp,
lasted
the
is the
too
the
in
feather.
This
vamp.
some
dealing
sit clear
not
the
by
material
along
when
front
curve.
top of the
back
practice of straightening the are
the
An
"
producing a
if the
does
useful
a
rounding
parts
suitable,and
practised
but
goods
it may
is that
upper
so
being too sharp
curve
obtained
patent, it will be
of the
of the
or
been
other
Any
clearlylasted
a
often
seam,
edge
standard.
It
liningsdo
however, it is the
of
above
curve
front
that
of the
made
error
YT
the
pattern be made dead, it of the previous error. The
lengthened, the edge lasting,and
than
feather,and
effect
this
parallelto
for the last.
troubles
of the
also
where
certainlyimparts throughout the depth of the
something of the nature to get extreme difficulty If the
has
is drawn
how
the laster in
the
of
vamp
X
and
much
tension the
to
p. 180, and the vamp on
Fig. 153,
vamp.
false idea.
a
of
original boot
way.
shorter
to assist
is, however,
It
same
on
(which
vamp
standard
too
curve
supposed
the
cutting of patterns
is sprung
seam
of
line from
a
to
in
SHOES.
the
as
grading
of
Patterns,
in the
made
The
height
AND
alluded
front
of the
Errors
Some
is
the
of
crease-line
been
demonstrated
recommended)
as
front
been
the
Through
has
BOOTS
proportion
p. 91.
on
method
pattern
and
appearance
possessed.
often
OF
this
moderate Shoe
quarter
j
UNIVERSITY OF
"#
PATTERN-MAKING
with
seam,
the idea of
is liable to the
such
seams
and
seam
for the side
those
as
the
on
to
gallthe
foot of
and the slippers, often spoilt used in Wellingtons, are principleof rounding or curving the
Curves
wearer.
193
the clipping properties.It assisting
strain
a
cause
GRADING.
AND
of
seams
applying the seams accordingto the nature of the material. Patterns cut to formes producedon Soules or the mitre methods are often found to be too springyat the toe,and the front seam is too short,owing to the neglectof not making allowances by
not
for the
on
in
TV
openingsof the slitswhen Fig. 120, VN is correct,but
for
patent leathers the
is too
of the
corner
suitable.
more "
the last. For instance, while springy,
forme
would
be
tongues of such designsas the
The
"
Langtries are usuallytoo baggy,and this should It principle. by the use of the curved seam
termed
the
across
faultyin the
of the
its
are
the
round
than
be
medied re-
is often
often cut to
foot,somewhat
pull in
heel-line. for
their allowance
cover,
bar shoes
Strap or
insteprather
the direction
of
*
draft."
"
latively re-
Lining patternsare very The substance stiffenings.
and stretchiness,
the
of
mode
making made-up
fullyweighedand allowed for. In the boot very often the vamps, toecaps, etc.,of the largersizes look out of all proportionto the original sized boot,and this may be prevented by remembering that the relation of the parts of the made-up boot that are measured throughout their entire lengthon the imaginaryaxial line of the boot are proportionedto the length of the boot, while the wing and other portionsthat are not so measured have
to be
in proportioned
are
Long Work.
supposedto be skill. special and
The
"
a
is not
shapesof long work
initial difficultiesare It is advisable
to
the lasted boot,and
to
*
cuttingof long-work patterns is
specialbranch
There
alluded
use use
the last.
relation to the distance round
so
overcome,
the term
pattern cuttingrequiring variation
much in short
as
the term
of
"
"
to "
spring
when
work, and
the rest is not draft
"
in the
apply only to to describe
the
style the
so
difficult
the
of prUfperty
here principle
to. O
THE
194
as
MANUFACTURE
it would
The
OF
modes
cutting the
of
be illustrated
uninitiated
the
to
appear
AND
BOOTS
various
first
on
kinds
SHOES.
of
inspection. boots
long
may
by describingthe Field, Butcher, Coachman's,
Regulation,Wellington, and Dress Wellington. The bespoke houses in the cuttingof the pattern as not so particular are would be
be deemed
machine-sewn
made
shapes practically
those
who
work
for
passage
have
heel
boot
fails to
to
The
upper.
short
cut
the
when
work,
the
One
by
cutting long
of
the
this
that
foot
the
into
of
class
it may
the
for
made-up the
to
line, and
a
the
cut
laid,
and
height, and,
at
end
one
of the traced.
The
one-half
of the
base-line
from
about
inch
tongue,
last at the
The
the
is in
are
given
as
The
seat.
last
the
is
counter-
of the
seat
marks
correct
on
on
the
position,the positions
this
allow
is to
The
marked
for
the
and
outline
seat.
the
The
top is
made
of
the
requires enough
for
the
allowance
heel
by the tongue well as stiffening,
pattern
Constructor"
scale
The
is obtained position-line by taking and it last's length, along the marking ankle is made the perpendicular. The in excess of that obtained by measuring
and
than
is marked.
touches
taken
lining
a
front
etc.
amount
smaller
with
measurement
This
foot.
styleof boot perpendicular.
time, the jointsand
same
last
the
placesof
an
sharp,and
last.
erect
back
the
coincide
to
While
paper.
that
so
the
at
made
are
be
for this
pattern
Up this the height of heel desired such a counter-height (taken from measured from the p. 138) is next
last
should
too
to the
the
Sportsman's.
method
taken
work
be
not
relation
positionin
is to draw
the
made
neglect to provide
cutting
throat, so
Elcho, Field, or
the
the
to
portion
in
of its correct
the
case
former
mistake
may
is resorted to, and oppositeextreme fit in the heel, causing a sloppiness during
Attention
given
In
they
the
Then
wear.
the
time, is
first
of the
boot.
out
only
factory,where
welted.
or
closer
the
for the
necessary
thickness
the
and as
for the
about
a
substance
shape
half
of
an
of
of the inch
calf. may
shown
be
constructed
by Fig.
141.
by The
the mode
"
Pattern of
using
PATTERN-MAKING
this
will
tool
AND
be
understood
143, 144, 145, 146, and is. about this
15
or
16
in.,for,say,
illustrated.
style is
lines
construction AB
clearness.
tongue
147.
have
The
GRADING.
by referring to Figs. 142, The height of this design In Fig. 154 seven. a size preliminary unnecessary
been
omitted
heel-line
is the
is needed
for
195
CD
and
this
for the
design.
the
sake
calf.
The
A
of
fold four-
inclination
c F
A
154. Fig. will of
be
one,
varied
the of the
to the
kind
of
This
boot
may
adopted.
golosh or to make
as
vamp
and
opening rule being that the leg below D, heel-measure.
too
from the
A
low F
down in
and
cut
the
a
be
taken
leg of
1 54
should
strap
want
or
with
should
Fig.
distance
buckle
be
Care
quarter.
the
making-system,
the
to the not
be
is used
whole not
pattern,
other
side
less than to
fasten
196
the
opening
It is well
inside. boot
the
which
E,
at
to
to
assume
an
has
incline
a
the
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
gusset-tongue top
forward
upright position at
allow
to
the
the
on
top when
made.
Wellington. The it
fronts
are
is customary
the
From
front.
leather
usually purchased ready blocked, direct to to apply the measures throat
one-half
and
the
the
of
heel
H
155. Fig. is marked
measure
of the
top one-half
joined from
with
the
"fg in. where
a
The way AB
direction
the
calf
make
a
the
At
curved
height is about of proceeding
is made
of the is
measurement
straight cut.
bottom,
Another
in
line 13
placed;
distance
a
to
is illustrated
full heel-measure
this
2J
of
is in.
distance
some
14
the
At
seat.
for in and
a
of
seven's.
Fig. 155, AC
some
PATTERN-MAKING less.
4- in.
GH
EF
is the
ins.
from
the
materials
and
out
is made
calf, the
5
some
AND
the
same
centre
from
GRADING.
the
bottom.
be
not
P.
heel-measure.
EF
The
straight-cutline is -^ in. for lighter.
Wellingtonwill
the
as
being
197
taken
amount
about The
is distanced
in. for
^
stouter
cutting of a dress a Wellington can
when difficult,
be
properly cut. Fig. 156 gives a made-up long boot (a dress
Wellington),and
show
what
is
positionof
the
correct
leg. The side straight when
be
must
seam
the
will
made.
ButeJier.
This, and
and
the
jockey,
15
to
nearly the They may making sheet
design. designed by
be line
on
erecting a angles to the
line
end
of
drawn
edge
of the
to the
omitted, full
to the
The
throat
seat
is the
the
long
to
pattern the
and
over
would
the be
the
trousers
the
that
The
2^ high. to
so
case
the
needs
of
does
not a
the
top
applied If this position distance equal now
consideration.
it
for the
applied
to
point
5
from the
in. from throat
the
the
to
measure
curve
3
in.
requires adapting
in
about
is made
counter
calf
with
of
from
The
a
intended
allowances
made
now
measurement
heel-measure.
measurement
taken
back, in
same
suitable
one-half
is
at
is made
for
under
case
the
is
measure
place it
with
line
drawn
measure.
the
of
measurement,
tracing.
calf
is to
etc., is taken, and
counter,
the
rule
good
heel-measure
heel
The
a
line
a
the
from
positiongiven
is measured
point a height of
The
The
pattern.
last
this
at
and
the
of
length
the
determined,
now
FIG. 156.
right
at
upright line, and right angles to the base. is
as
one
this
boot
as
at
first
One-half
from
be
suitable
a
and
at
are
in
paper,
line.
from
and
high,
same
a
of
made
are
in.
16
coachman
the
case,
demand
measurement
as
measure
a
any
allowance
taken
round
198
THE
the
MANUFACTURE
naked
leg.
quarters
to
The
difference
147. other. obtain
of way the method
use
couple of
A
the
seat
producing
be about
from
three-
this kind
of
design would
illustrated
lines
the
X
From
will
SHOES.
inch.
an
Another be to
AND
BOOTS
OF
are
usual
of the
by Figs. 141, 142, 143, to made at right angles to each to height of heel is marked
pattern (B, Fig. 157).
Often
an
FI6.I57. allowance
is made
here
for
the
kind
lasting" handthat the positionof leg in making sewn or so be easily obtained. The is drawn pitch-lineBA may either with the pattern constructor (Fig. 141) or by of the length of the last, which making it two-thirds the pattern is supposed to be for. At A the joint-line is machine
"
of
200
THE
MANUFACTURE
It should a
long
pass,
the
be the
boot
same
as
usually all height of the
foot
line
CD
CB
is to
AB,
in
for.
is harder
approached
that
the
former
down
than
in
farther
In
a
idea
of
the
at
157
low,
an
for
throat, from
the
the
higher
case
the
width
latter
to
kind
flat foot the
the
the
leg of
the heel
the
boot.
angle
than
in
making
to
whereas sufficient,
foot in the at
SHOES.
to allow
as
is considered
clearance
provided
AND
heel,so
of the
Fig.
the
the
the
that
passage
the
that
noted
is
affects the
BOOTS
OF
ground,
By making line
the
will
of
foot
entrance
to
case.
or
of
The
is
as
be
the foot
foot.
arched
leg
OB,
So
required
method
of
PATTERN-MAKING
fixing F in Fig. 158 applied in other long Sewrounds.
making requiresalso in short
work.
The
out, and
that
after
be
It may
work.
"
"
the
shoe
second-
turned, and
is sewn,
in the fit of the
inaccuracies
lasted,any
this.
provides for
also
201
of cutting of patterns for this mode a specialattention not so demandable round fact of a being made inside
The
"
GRADING.
AND
in the
top,or
lasting
thereof,is apparent,renders it therefore necessary, if correct be paid to attention should work is to be made, that due the the
rightcutting of the upper evil of the generalityof
Usual
the
machine-
by
cut
patterns
spring is
much
Too
for sewround-makers.
cutters
sewn
pattern.
mode
of cutting. in Fig. 159 line AB
A the
and
points,1 to the
last,
with
takes
is to
a
X2
parts, and Aa.
for
the
like toe
of
to
point 2, 2X
0
is drawn
for
parts
in
at
the
is made
a
A"
seam-line
curve
three
into
is made.
A
suitable
parts,
is divided
is made
is made
from
a,
6,
and four
into
at
right angles
0
to
2.
After
shape will appear as W (Fig. 159). This to be the best shape pattern is supposed by many gripping property so essential to low-cut shoes
cutting out form
length
into three
It is divided
divided
through
A
in
right angles joint of the equal to if a allowance for lasting-over,and it be used, something also for the space At
is
line
a
cut.
This
an
up.
from
2.
line AB.
"shover"
to
to be
size about
suitable
is drawn
these. is too
the
It
is,however,
a
bad
of
form
pattern.
The
springy.
If the
like made the wings were more opening between those of an interlocking golosh (seeFig. 124, p, 148), much better better results could be obtained in making, and shoes would result. It is supposed to be a appearance by very difficult thing for patent leather shoes to be made machine
without
showing (that
abomination
to
the
shoe
If it is desired to remedy this,the pattern trade)wrinkles. should be right. The waist of a shape of the average "round
"
should
be
studied, so that proper
provision in
the
upper
"
pattern this
If
sole.
pulled
of the
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
202
be
"
The
side
for the the
done
not
a
SHOES.
waist
narrow
of the
cause
seams
AND
quarters
detriment
to the
across,
shoe.
made
be
may
BOOTS
are
of the be
likely to
fittingproperties
lot of trouble
to
some
w
FIG. 159, folk. the
If the
side
present
seams
any
principle,and of dosed
work
of
reason,
be
understood, it should
Different difficulty.
experimented with,
and
rounding or curving
materials
the results watched.
should
not
be
PATTERN-MAKING
GRADING.
AND
203
Experiment. Take it
on
board,
a
These Take
in
seam
the
(that is,
normal
of
need
piece be
to
rather
the
straight,
depends
strain
Testing
several
relative
amounts.
Patterns
In
workshop.
machine
is
patterns
should
not
enlarges
the
as
that
used
the
prevents
should
pointed
awl, should
machine
Patterns
to
pattern,
these
cut
the
marked graver
be
of
should
found
be as
it
of
the
of
uniformity.
is
on
the
material
to
after
be
Hartford
be
legibly
quite
closer, without
bad
often
but
materials,
used.
be
The
also
paper hard-
fine
a
cut,
It
The
with
a
paper
shape.
making.
closely
binding
brass
pattern. marked
and
All
its
zinc.
or
The
the
easily.
tin,
the with
bound
be
iron,
distorts
the
in
use
metal.
round may
to
and
and
and
making.
in
card
pasted
paper
in
of
determine
soon
may
be
oval
or
material
metal
they
may
fitting, design, etc.,
material, way
a
will
will
amount
bear
to
or
comparison
be or
leather
case
to
be
brought
seamed
piece
a
The the
of
edges
round
of
across
get the
position
nature
cardboard
cut
proper
patterns
cut.
of
they
to
originally
be
former
used
are
seam
the
to
in
latter
shears
Hand
the
as
kinds
the
the
In
brass.
is
put
are
making
right
The
to
former
upon
that
and
its
resume
it
pull
seam).
bag,"
"
to
removed,
than
removal
to
the
to
down.
rubbed
and
closed
lay
length.
its
along
cut
vigorously
found
be
be
now
and
will
seam
edges
should
and
examined,
be
to
straight
a
hand,
them
the
material
making
pieces
two
the
of
piece
a
stored
increasing it,
a
should
seams
enough
in
having with
the
the
to
as
convenient be
the
last,
on
the
judgment
clicker's
want
CHAPTER
OR
CLICKING,
THE
cutting of
the
of the
of
pattern
of the
come
from
same
The
various that
cutting,which in
the
the
systems,
produce the
be
would
the
not
actual skins
be into
cut
to
the
The
Skins
uppers.
demands
want
of
the
to
which
quality.
relative
quality,
instructions
in
the
considerably modified the
prevents the utilization
or
wear,
of
defined
the
various
boot
(either
etc.,is
uniformity in
the
ready manipulation of
the
of
clickingis acquired by
a
duce proto
not
material
systematic training
the
of
want
good quality line) to
in manufacture
very
factory satis-
most
differ in their
be
to
advocated, owing
cutting. Although
a
ledge know-
systematic placing
differ in their
have
of
judgment
of
results
upon
and
skin
in
to the
cannot
cheap cuttingor
a
despised.
mind
the
keen
skin
branch
requires a
systems of placing dispositionof the leather in the
best
operated
the
It the
class of animals
study
patterns, the to
cut, and
adherence
skin
important
an
impossible to give rigid
practice of
uniformity in
be
LEATHERS.
shoes.
material
parts of
it is
and
parts of
the
on
character
so
is
Rigid
the
the
leathers
to
various
direction. of the
UPPER
boots
materials
the
disposeof
CUTTING
upper
manufacture
VI.
of
the the
patterns upon
skin. The
art
and
much
preparation the of
earlier not
valuable
outside
the
stages of
knowing
what
a
time
could
board
be
saved
by
practice. Many
clicker's to do
considerable
career
rather
is than
a
careful
failures
through not
ence, experi-
the
being
in
want
able
to
do
it.
CUTTING
OR
CLICKING, The
more
cutter
a
of his trade
processes
that
assuming
he
LEATHERS.
UPPER
for his
the better
is able
know
to
gets
about
the
after
productions,always
his
adapt
to
205
knowledge
his
to
work.
(the skins of larger animals, such as oxen, horses, etc.),Skins (from calves, goats, sheep, deer, seal, etc.),and Hides
Kips (the small
yearling cattle)are
or
of upper
leather. and
substance,
or
improvement
in
They
the
higher breeds
The
substance
difference
the of
in
hide
is taken.
hides
that
Skins
from
and
the
the
the
for
the
hides
and
The
during
its removal
skin,
the
tanyard, affects Some
mode
the
restored
to its green
Anatomical
leaves
the
layers : the the
true
the
hair
skin, has
matter
making
to
is sort
or
composed called
of
animal
or
wool
; the
corium The
; and
hair
from
the
necks
the
the
neck.
grain, of
sex
or
the
quality of the
female
than
those
place of slaughterto
the
leather
when
salted,and
are
be
the
it
Skin.
skin
it is
before has
that
the
to be
the
skin
and
the
is
is converted
tissue."
These
of
the
white
skin
the
;
of
fatty
leather-
true
into white
four
adipose
operation of It
skin
of
outside
of
portions outside
the
consists
epidermis, or
interlacing bundles
"connective
When
"
mainly
commenced.
corium) of
and
the
before
removed can
proper
(cutis,dermis, This
be
made
commenced,
the
slaughtered.
skins
preventing purification of
from
of
or
which
condition.
Construction back
The
affects the
that
quality of be
tanning operationscan
from
finest in the
coloured.
dried, others
are
the
is taken
of
the
become
class afford
a
lighterin
male.
ness thick-
the age, kind
by
proportion in
are
when skin
texture
the
made.
in
animals
better
dye
finer in
the
heavy
of
produced therefrom,
leather
from
and
which
from
being
animals
the younger
take
animal
the
do
is accounted
Large
thick
are
facture manu-
proportion to
breed, state of health, or the food of the animal
the
the
they are thin and spready. qualityof the skin from
and
class of animals
same
In
of cattle
less thick ; in the
for
considerablyin
vary
quality.
breed
used
skin
leather. fibres of fibres
are
206
THE
dense
MANUFACTURE
OF
and
and resisting, closelyinterwoven,
are
become
looser
loose.
during
Some
the
but
these
middle the
near
more
The
fibres.
is
Here
and elementary fibrils,
flesh side
are
so
contains
a
skin
the
ally they gradu-
it becomes
loose
very
grain
portion of
until
open,
of these
fleshing."
"
compact with their
and
in
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
fibres
ingly exceedremoved
are
exceedingly close and they are separated into interlaced that they can
scarcelybe recognized. The
are
of
The
older
tanning
fibres in the
skins
those
of
the
peltinto
and
mineral the
upon
it into
"
leather
Tanned
be
may
taken
found
functions
from
in the
tanned,
leather.
former
when
of
young skins
of
is
a
and
the
acting upon
leather
of
resists water softness
its
tanned
less than
and
decay, it
under
retains
conditions
its
that
verting con-
fibre. It
cannot.
leathers
into
tawed
of
be reduced
Chromed
or
table vege-
pelt,transforms
leather
tawed.
tanned
qualitiesto
other
may
soaked produced by a soluble chrome which the is precipitated on by reduction fast gaining popularity. productions are many
depends
preservative method
Tawed
leather.
stretch
converting
former
the bark
elements, whereas
leathers
of
ways
The
chroming.
or
Tawing
into
different
are
and
the
generalized as tanning,tawing,
astringentproperty
skin its
The
Preparation.
products,which,
in
They
process.
ones.
Modes
to
the
flexible than
more
are
proportion of fine They are very stable,
fibres.
in
changed
small
is required for great elasticity
where
the animal.
animals
"
elastic
"
little
very
found
are
also
fibres called
yellow and
skin
true
is
the
skin,
Chrome
superior
leather.
It
strength,pliability,
would
destroy ordinary
leather. Selection of Skins, of The
the
skin
determines
positionor
also influence
length
is
The
"
absence the
nearly
size,shape,quality,and substance its value
of
same
profitablein cuttingthan
a
specificpurpose.
flaws, fleshcuts,and
stretchiness
Square skins, i.e. when
selection. the
for
as
the
long
width,
narrow
are
skins.
the
usually more Long
skins
the
shoulder.
veiny necks, in
shown
skin
is the
and
is
is
butt, and
of the
in
This
latter
skin.
The
generally the
SHOES.
neck
and
skin
that
the
male than
the
female
diagram
also
shows
in texture
coarser
Fig. 161.
division
usual
the
AND
level cutting advantages as one a diagram of a Fig. 160 shows
same
has
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
208
portion A (Fig. 161)
stoutest
best
and
part.
It
FIG. 161. for the
is used the
strain, such
most
quality the better texture
boots
best
that
as
C
lighter than
demand
and B
vamps.
portion of
than, the butt. but
boots
portions of
the
is the
experience
ribs, and
is in
skin, being equal to, if
is the the
shoes that
shoulder, which
ribs.
It is used
not
is fine in for
lightbut firm,strong material.
parts of D is the
OR
CLICKING,
CUTTING
neck
which
is often
skin
(seeFig. 160).
the shoulder. is
fairlyfirm.
which much
is as
E
and
is the
H
flabby. The
usually thin
a
is less firm than
F is the
rule.
is shown
weak,
flank,which
shank, which
is the
especiallyin possible,
209
stout, especiallyin the male
backbone and
LEATHERS.
belly,which
It is stretchyas
soft,loose,and
and
veiny
UPPER
in
should
and
is
Fig. 160 be
light by A,
avoided
as
calf-skins.
FIG. 162
Systems. "
In
materials
cuttingup
for
it is
economy,
a
system of placing the great advantage to adopt some depends upon the class patterns. The best system to use and the variety of qualities of work to be produced. The mode
of manufacture
selection The
cut
of the and
will determine
will
best
system
height,as the
also
best
well method
to as
have
its influence
use
for
the
shape,of
to
be
a
certain
in
the
pattern.
the pattern
adopted.
All P
these
conditions
the
as
In
cutting
fabrics
of
height
into
pattern
of
nature
leather
the
adopting
when
into consideration
taken
the
well
as
lining and
of
width
decide
whether
the
illustrated
in
advantageous If
the
carries
side
on
then
threads
warp the
tern patto
as
so
at
the
the
righthand,
it
should
be
waste
avoided
on
may some
widths to
head the
the
the width
adopted. A be
rangement ar-
Fig.
waste
no
to
of
stuff
the
leave
of
the
most
of
direction
is
163
across
arrow
Figs.
or
162
The
system
162
adopt.
FIG. 163.
be
must
system.
a
linings,the
will
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
210
in
this
illustration
greatest strength
running
the
by resorting system Fig. 163.
length
shows
of
the
lining.
of
the
material
that strongest, while those threads weft or woof, are relativelynot so strong
go
across,
in the
the The are
the
ordinary
lining. The quality of both threads should be considered when In making a selection for a particularpurpose. workshops vamp linings for shoes are cut so that many the toe runs width-ways, the strongest threads being the vamp. This across cutting of the lining is also resorted avoid
to
the
in
bal
wrinkly
and
buttoned
work
by
some,
to
lining in the madethe stripe up goods. It is used for striped liningswhen the height of the boot. is required to run In some cases it certainly does facilitate the clearing of the linings. This is illustrated It is also advocated in Fig. 1 64. by the tearing of the first to prevent some lining when the toe during the lasting. pulled over With
certain
appearance
shaped patterns
of the
and
suitable
leather, it is
advisable
often of
CUTTING
OR
CLICKING,
proceed
utilizingthe damaged the
that
of the After in
system has conjunction with space,
been its
system
for
smaller
some
would the
result
system
taken
to
to
present,
from
the
be
may
setting up-
pattern the
keep strictly to the
so
avoided.
the
occupy
the smaller
systems, the largerthe skin and
the
pattern,
allows
that
most
range,
flaws, etc.,were
no
neighbours be
of
out
get
selected
should
care
of
uniform
a
Broad, largeskins lend themselves
system. of
uniformity
a
surface
which
to
211
material, to get the
than
portion
waste
greater
the
though
as
LEATHERS.
adhere
upon
Rather
results.
would
cutter
and
adopt
to
placing the patterns
economical
UPPER
least to the
adoption
the
pattern in
Small
patterns
FIG.161 the proportion,
large skins
and
the
repay
to
adopt
deemed
would
adopt of
case
in
that
The
will
the
size
the
of
get the best results would were
and
of
consideration.
substance, texture, and
where
as
far
present and skins
best
For the
of in
the
A as
be advisable
not
substance
remaining
determination
under
advantageously
most
system of placing the patterns.
a
large quantities of work,
level
system.
circumstances
levelness
in the
the
is concerned, which
if other
influence
use
that
important. the
and
of
be used
cutting area
to
the conditions
are
adoption
system may the
easier
the
skins
were
the
the
skin,
parcel,
method
to
production are
fairly
stretchiness,a system that
THE
212
MANUFACTURE
skins
that
match
up,
be
the
to
all for
work
produces
are
BOOTS
side could
one
irregularand
very
system
a
OF
that
be
that
produces the
SHOES.
used, whereas are
with
difficult to
very
work
the
in
greater advantage
AND
to match
long
would that
so
run,
for
quantitiesof work, irregularskins, grained leathers, and sorts of coloured goods, a system of placing the many is patterns that lends easilyto the matching as the work be recommended. But for large proceeded with would skins of fairly quantities of a particularpattern with small
characteristics,the
uniform space for
be
may
side
one
suitable
The
in
the
first
quality,etc.,to of
utilization latter
calls for the
least
adopted,even
portionsof
Some
that
system
are
though the work produced skin skin, demanding another
be cut
men's
with
up
patterns
are
the
is of
pattern reversed.
better
adapted
systems than the patterns of larger in proportion to the
to
women's skin
the
work.
than
the
be resorted systematicplacing cannot to, then the edges of patterns having similar curves should be sponding arranged to meet, and the straight-edges placed to correin the next pattern. The ones shape of the same design of pattern, the height, the heel and instep measure, former.
When
will make
a
considerable
in the amount used.
This
of material be understood
may
by testinga couple of patterns upon
marking patterns
a
the
Fig. pattern
cut
heel-measure
for
a
person
(referto
p.
with
42).
a
The
and
of
different
afterwards
167 of
systems
They
leg
fully care-
comparing
occupied. Figs. 165,
area
166, and 165
number
employing
measuring the
men's
sheet of paper,
same
systems, and
ence differ-
are
illustrate
placing
taken
flat foot
leg is
from and
also
a
a
three
pattern. standard
low-angled low in height.
OR
CLICKING, In
the toe at the
in
is made time
same
also
straight line.
a
one
needing
way,
throat
the
to touch
keeping
This, of
second
of the
the
produces to
first row,
of the
backs
course,
213
pattern is made to fall reversing the pattern, curve
the
skin
second
a
the
without
straightline,AB, and,
a
upon
of
back
system Fig. 165, the
LEATHERS.
UPPER
CUTTING
all
work
of similar
selected
be
row
B
166. .
quality,and
this method
of
The
way
other is
Work
cut
faces
plan
without into
a
kind and
is
work
of
the
produced
the
same
pattern placed the
touches
toe
all
one
way
by
placing. trated illus-
Fig.
167.
upon
this
matches
or
having second
pattern upon
same
corner
The
AB.
straightline
reversed
the
top front
the
that
the
shows
Fig. 166
system. so
with
cut
to cut
By
skin.
carefully calculating the
pattern, it which
seen
a
of the marked-
number out
of
surface-area
will
cut
into the least material If of
a
pattern of
top, as
self-same
well
as
Fl 0.167.
be
can
a
(seealso
p.
241).
greater heel-angleand
being higher
systems, it will be
in the
different
a
leg,be
demonstrated
used
without
style
for the doubt
THE
that
the
the
selection
shape, size,and of
number
the
of
in
parts
height
of
that
system
of
minimum
a
a
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
214
pattern will influence will produce a given Fig. 168
area.
shows
./68.
the
system
same
line
skin.
The
centre
of the
as
AB
skin.
illustrated is
supposed
It will
be
Fig. 165, adapted
in
to
seen,
be
the
without
to
backbone
a or
measurement,
.169. to cut
The
165. cut
into
on
the
more
work
than
material
produced
right-hand
on
side
the
this of
the
pattern
plan matches line
AB.
used the The
for
Fig.
quarters pattern
216
MANUFACTURE
THE
generallyadapted that
vamps
in
cut
are
BOOTS
OF
may
of material
be made in
given
also be
worked
side
pattern, and
area.
to
get the
a
front
and
backs
may
mode
of
least
be
capped
of the
Fig.
elastic-
placing possible and
be removed
cutting
plan
system, and
the
underneath
smallest
the
on
p. 145.
on
the
If the
variation
large
a
seam-fronted
into
a
necessary
a
cut
material
'
to
illustrates
to
in"
fronts
172
them
A
Fig. 122
short
they presents itself,
to "run
Elastic-side
'
For
long-winged,low vamps. without spring,and where surface
J
SHOES.
AND
the
from, there-
system will be 173
is
system
of
Fig.
area.
Fig.]72. the
system
running
the
for
a
backs
straight-cappedfront. is exhibited
in
Fig. 174.
The
CLICKING,
Systems and
176.
CUTTING
OR
for
Shoe
LEATHERS.
UPPER
placing shoe quarters
given
are
and
linings,top-bands,inside
counters, tongues, and
sectional
other
many
217
in
Figs.175
outside straps,
patterns
may
175. Fig. also
be
arranged
illustrations
be
cut
given
will
to
here
system,
a
upon
the
make
but
the
principlequite
plain. should
Clicking Principles. Skins "
quality,and
substance.
The
largestand
be
sorted
stoutest
are
to
size,
usually
Fig.i74. reserved
for
largest skins greater
economy,
the
largestsizes.
should on
be the
cut
lines
Some
into that
the the
advocate smallest
largerthe
that
the
sizes
for
area
to
218
MANUFACTURE
THE
be cut
in
the
proportion to
effected.
the
But
BOOTS
OF
pattern the greater of the
substance
prevent the adoption of such
cases
SHOES.
AND
If the
plan.
that
should the
for skin
and
flaws
pierced through do.
This
cutter
will
free
from
or
utilize
be
inferior
some
portion
the
if the
size of
started
either
backbone.
The
the
as
former
flaw the
at
the face
by
strain
under a
be
the
button
should
be
side
resorted
the
enable
in
part
some
and
that
is
button-piece boot;
compatible.
left-hand
be
not
sometimes
workmen
much
quarter of
outside
be
should
inclusion
for
subjected to
observation, such
on
should
piercing,will
of
instead
the
be
not
fly,in
underlay may
marking,
to
that
as
They
instrument.
amined ex-
flesh cuts
back
the
well
grain noticed.
indicated blunt
The
cutting,and
the broken
a
used
the face and
flesh before
with
be
be
on
marking
well-
purpose.
should
The
skin
a
and
is wide
grown
many
pattern
large, then
be
on
in
would
skin a
the economy
or
or
The from
to, when
the skin the the
176. Fig.
qualityand permit
of
substance work
of the
being
cut
skin
at the
without
butt
and
deviating
backbone from
the
CLICKING,
system the to
proposed
The
work
the
it is advisable
should
closer may
all clear
at
not
be faced them
seam
completed
viz. the
demand
that
that
tightestportions run
the
that
seams
marked
go
with
and be
be
Fine
grain.
the
markings
should
with
in
texture,
preventing
way,
boot.
Leathers
that
The
or
ings fine mark-
however, may
vamps,
grain,while
calf, box-
or
with
be matched
are
markings
the
regards
as
coarse.
bold
a
in
Strasburg moroccos
as
up
with
similar
a
lasted
matched
coarse
matched
in
to be
them
quarters matching
in
grain,such
a
should
material
awry
intended
the
that
quality. Very light leathers should be carefullywatched, so
substance, tightness,and the
the backbone.
generalrule,so
a
the cutter
as
upper,
as
at
work
for the
from
start
219
be weak
skin
suitable
or
to
up
LEATHERS.
If the
worked.
be
to
backbone, and be cut, then
UPPER
CUTTING
OR
the
quarters may
be
The portionsthat grained material. should be are subjected to strain during the manufacture cut firm to preserve the marking or impressions. Coloured leathers should be carefully matched, and usually it is mated
with
advisable several
After
be
the
in
placed and
without
doubt
such
kip
the and
patterns should in
view
the
procedure
be
The
skins
should
desired,and sold.
The
the
"
three
and
the qualities,
skins
the whole
to
suited for
use
obtain
the
fit
work
to
the
or
parts
cut
up
for.
into It is
heavy leathers, results,the
best
closely,keeping
exhaustive," and
mode
This
cut.
is often
the
of one
work. be
may
be that
subsequentlyinto be
selected
is termed
selective,"and
skins
To
of adaptability
for women's
used
"
split.
of
one
upon
it is most
method
best
skin, as the
same
shades.
with
boards, and
of work
kind
the
varying
substances
the
upon
of
proceeded
be
may
sorting into
purpose
as
parcelare
a
cutting
lines. may
complete pairs from
to cut
skins
The
finer
a
when cut
as
cut
upon
the
this
mode
is determined
far
as
plan
selective
goods of method
inferior
as
upon, the
possible into
portion not suitable, left other
known
to be
to
the
quality
disposed of
quality,or
is resorted
the
it may
for the
very
best fine as
SHOES.
of
selected
are
very
quality
that demand
production of goods
the
quality,for
AND
the skins
where
bespoke work,
or
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
220
first consideration.
a
The the
third
skins
then
for
the
cut, and
work.
the
of
bulk
prevent undue
to
immediately adaptable
the
goods
are
not
portions
patterns for
other
into
quality
the
These
waste
cut
are
possibleof
as
near
as
others,
of the
of combination
sort
a
selected
being
desired
is
way
stock. Stretchiness
line
direction
or
class
or
in the
which the
as
if tanned
in which
the skin
is not
lines
of
much
of
amount
relative stretch and
properties will leathers
that
portions
of
strict when
are
very
tanning
notice
that
in the
on
the
produced goods.
of
the
pair,in The of
similar
stretch
tightness skin.
portionsare be
taken
or
way "
or
tightness,"and
in
It does
be
with
But
lines a
they
the
arrange
so
obtained
are
principleinto
is to
stretch
on
any effect.
mate
pair or
up
stretch
tightness and
the
to
stretchy
reached, if a fairly to
this
a
maintained
necessarilymean
not
cheap work,
regard
that
material, so a
of
such
that
necessary
to carry
in
work, paying due
of the far these
how
material, that the best results
great point,even
the
determine
taken
skin, and
so
the
on
must
great sacrifice of economy the
not
lines
care
of
out
will
be
must
the
tightness."
When cutting cutting up. firm, or when cutting the primest
the inferior
good skin, great
tions direc-
the
placingthe patterns
leathers,or when
same
animals, but the
of
the
to
general lay
mode
skin, it is
the
in the
lines of
"
various
tightnessin
influence
adherence
patterns
in the
skins
substance, quality, and
largelythe
the
termed
of
the
property
pulled or strained,
when
yieldsleast
variation
tightness in
This
also
is
most
differently. The
dressed
or
pulled,the
stretches
or
skins, and
of
are tightest, relatively
There
gives
line of stretch."
"
kinds
several
of skin
are
The
it
is
skin
a
"
in
known technically varies
Tightness, When
and
of
opposite sides
a
direction. of stretch
diagram
form
"
pull across Fig. 177
the
will
"
lines
give
this
the
relation,* where
the
tightness,"and
LEATHERS.
UPPER
CUTTING
OR
CLICKING,
lines
indicate
lines
cutting
arrow
circular
221
the them
"lines
of
"lines
the
of stretch." A
of
speculation is prevalentas to the cause being relativelytighter in a given direction,
deal
good
the
skin
some
affirming that
even
by as
of
though
the
the
direction
the or
lines
lay
"
of
tightness direction
definite
termined de-
are
it
But
hair.
of the
relative
for the
cause
"
seems
of the
177. Fig.
tightnessof of the of the the
"
This
lines," and
same
Experts
is
to the
do not
to indicate
their
angle
shank to
agree
making
an
given only
for the
cause
some tightness,"
those
diagram not
is the
line at about
backbone
*
skin
hair.
lines of
flanks, while
"
the
start indicate
absolute
of
from the
direction.
lay
to the
as
them
or
tion direc-
direction
radiate
from
degrees to the the same position
60
differences
between
the
THE
222
MANUFACTURE
diagramized in Fig. 177,
as
the
direction
by using
in which From the
the
the skin
brief
skin, and
with
the
a
is
remarks
others
mode
SHOES.
Fig. 178.
to
be the better
to the
reference will
understood
be
fibres,and
view
the
Fig. 179
an
ox
is
of
of the
shoes
should
mode
of
a
few
lasted
bespoke upon
a
edge is the
houses method
"
the
the
of
which
with
the direction
place
in
boots
so
(a) of
line
sidered. con-
shoe
pers up-
that
the
heel
to
the
edge.
The
former
of the
and
is resorted
"
The
greatest
material
much
or
seams,
direction
stretchy
toe,
toe, (b)
to
mostly adopted.
demands
the and
be
and
counter
one
"
greatest tightness
from
to vamp
tight seam," and
removed.
to
be cut
i.e. from
disposingof
tightnessis termed
be
of
view
next
Boot
direction
moved, re-
greatest tightness,
tight
may
animal
Disposing.
way
material
a
tightness suggested.
determined
best
these
been
the skin
Methods
in
the
give a
we
with
Having
portion pro-
of the
cause
In
may
the
has
stretch
and
the
of
skin
the
after
ment move-
by examining
muscular
second
The
positionof
and
"tight to toe,"and
elastic
and
determine
will
is termed
which
gives the
locomotion
animal
vamp
of
structure
stretching property.
or
i78. Fig.
tion direc-
chapter dealing
of fibre
kind
from
The
determined.
the
given concerning
bottoming leathers,it
(c) tightacross
indicate
prefer to
similar
tightwill
fullyby
more
while
AND
tightnessbeing ascertained,the
of the relative
cause
BOOTS
OF
to
in
when "
horsing
the
adjoins called of
boot
a
or
devolves,
least
portionsof
the
portion
is
the
best
appearance
may
be
placed under
blemishes
very
a
the
under
immediately should
leather
inferior
toe-caps
is desired.
Flaws
the
this
kind
Boots.
Button
flexible,but
reasons,
inside
quarter for the quarter
Seam-to-toe. cut If
of boot
be
it to the
the
best
as
be
thin, pliant,
buttoning
be
tight in width. better fitting of
the
should
portion,
and
the the
be
To
nomical eco-
upper, smaller for
the
used. obtain from
across,
adopted, the stiffener.
buttoning. un-
For
used, quarters outside, enabling parts too small
quarter, cutting away fasten
for
and
of
permit
to
flies should
to be "
tight this
piece should
button
outside
and
inside
The
"
tough, The
*
fly; but
or
the
as
be
overlays,etc.,
piece
adjoiningof the vamp. Facings should be cut from the firmest and utilizingthe lighterportionfor the topbands. far
stiffen ers.* when
under
in
the
excusable
only
button
extend
not
of
immediately
the
money
the
of
portion
over
or
disposed
which
quarter
article for the
inferior
judiciouslyworked
that
risky business, and
This
be
may
be
covers
the
tops of the legs,and times cheap work may some-
the
in very
f.180.
The in
The
173, 174, 175.
over
or
portion of Figs.167,
darkened
in
bal
a
is intended
idea
same
wear
material.
best
the
needs
quarter which
and
lace vamp
strain
parts where qualities.
shows
Fig. 180
in
shading
The
or
parts
portions
the
quality,and place,the lower
strain takes
the
the
that
So
greatestwear
best
the
demand
the
where
shoe
or
SHOES.
AND
stiffener, are
roughest usage.
to bear
upon
the
above
and
vamp,
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
224
the
the
best
wear,
seam
to
front
clicker
should
stretch
the
fronts
feather, and as
much
superfluous material, relying
as on
should when
possible the the
paste
to
OR
CLICKING,
joined under to
UPPER
LEATHERS.
the
fronts
should
towards
the
Vamps
be
may
the stretch
to
the front.
during blocking across
or tight-to-toe tight-across, of lasting, and kind trade, method
cut
the class of
according to
"
"
top of the leg. This will allow
be removed
225
tight-to-toe gusset the back should be back-seam going awry in lasting. Blocked be tight-to-toe, the inferior portion with
prevent the
Shoe
CUTTING
of material.
Cutting. For
Bespoke
best
"
obtained, and
quality is
a
therefore cutting would and suitabilityfor
be
bespoke, high prices are
Economic great consideration. ness a secondary consideration,fit-
the
be attained.
primary objectto
intended
purpose The
partswould
be matched
from
oppositeplaces,either side of the backbone. bespoke is produced in a factory,or where economy consideration,order
specialrun Calf
or
Calf
Wax
being
curried
skins
excel
their blackened
Skins
the
calf
darker
than
and
marks be and
short firm.
skin
between and
not
flesh cuts
the
and
level
backbone
should
feel and
exude that
in
well
rounded
be
freedom
a
are
French-
should firm
and
There
oftentimes
the
be
the butt
are
and from
be
should
hidden
as
on
a
offal
plump
free from
straightas
suddenly. when
flabbynor be
in
should
feel
fall away
be
are "
growth
neck
skin
mellow, and not
the
short,and
should
not
skins
kippy
"
The
veins.
substance, and
fingershould
grease.
The
English
hand, and
free from
edge of
The
skin.
The
shanks, etc.,should
The
thumb
in
wards bark, after-
standing notwithflexibility, They are curried and
the
skins.
should
There
with
best, being mellow, more last easier,and is of a better
the
English
the shoulders
ragged ends. possible. The The
cut, and
a
the
grain,harsher They should be
out.
got
of
side
the
on
appearance. well
be
is
oleaginoussubstances.
thinness.
is considered to
with
strength and
flesh
durable, conforming appearance
stuffed
or
in
first tanned
are
comparative
on
dressed
would
When
in.
or
These
work
stock
the
being
folded "
tinny,"
freedom
the black
face. Q
from
226
MANUFACTURE
THE
The the
material
Several
superiorwork, bone
and
bone back-
purposes.
make
serviceable
of
qualitiesmay
grades
is needed
good judgment
SHOES.
for inferior
reversed, and
blackened.
when
produced, and
and
cutting,the hip
In
oftentimes
are
AND
best for
usually avoided, except
be
necks
BOOTS
considered
are
being finer.
should
be
skins
female
texture
The
OF
in
the
cutting
costing. calf is dressed
Memel
the
on
grain,and
is not
much
used.
calf is
Russet
not
a
calf at
American
The
the
first
appearance.
finer,but it is
sight appears
article,either for appearance calf,under various trade names, and
into
general use, looking article.
calf -skins
In brown and that
opening
and
Calf selected
haired
be
be mated
is tawed
calf-skins are
and
scudded
the so-called taken
and
good
spicuous, growth marks are conin placingthe patterns
and
accomplished
in
drums, with
The
hair with
after
damping,
with
a
blunt
are
a
soften
and
sometimes,
and
egg-yolk. They
to
The
are
are
them,
are
are
dyed black, and
are
is
salt. of
drained, and posts, working
wetted
dressed
un-
Germany
In
over
again
and mixture
a
them. skins
are
tawing
of alum and
staked, i.e. drawn
They
The
mixture
ing clean-
Next, they
drench.
bran
combined.
knife.
salted
or
They
dung.
drying,the skins are moistened into oil,flour, and egg-yolks worked operationsare
grain.
dried
is loose.
After
these
the
on
in water, after which
pured
cleansed in
finished tanned.
not
until the
and fleshed,
and
and
softened
are
limed
matched.
or
calf is boarded
Kid
they
is largelycoming
be
may
should
Willow
wear.
the least strain is arranged where experienced,owing to the tendency of their crackingwhen subjectedto strain. The shades
be
of colour
or
usuallya good wearing
should
care
they
likelyto
is
currying
finest sort.
reliable
Chrome
so
lining and
its smooth
calf is buffed, hence
Satin
for
calf is considered
Bordeaux
purposes.
both
imported
and with
after
shaved, oil,flour,
grounding
CLICKING, rubbed
are
OR
the
on
finallyironed The
CUTTING
grain with them
give
to
cutting of cut
skin.
Firm, large kids the
for the The
number
of
well
The
with
English
the
on
They the
not
white
and
The
"
beaded
not
make
a
English. is
suitable
very
kinds
three
It does
grain.
good dressing. The closer than
the
the
fibres
German.
French, especiallynear the knife
make
The
The
when
for such
small fibres
when
ideal leather
an
varieties
kind, and
have
both
for
or
up, for the
"
and
compact. in
turning
softness
or
therefore
are
dense
are
suitable
suppleness
for
necessary
appearance
a
German.
the
on
therefore
soft, and
selection
appearance
poor
of
and
of the
are
work, where
handling
The
edge readilyfrom
grain readily breaks
The
leather
and
of
importance
this
fine
and
beading."
"
or
kids
the
"
do
the
backs.
French
leather
The
the
"
blue
finer than
take
tightermaterial.
purposes.
supple as
or
in the
when
carefullywatched
relative
make
up,
short
appear
and
in
turning
be
to
the
pipe,if
or
up
grain. They "
have
is firm
soft
so
being skived, for
kinds
English,French,
kid
flesh side are
than
work
adaptable for systematic cutting,
are
paired
are
readilybreak
not
substance
for commercial
one fluctuating
usually met
surface.
producible,and qualities
them
keeping
fatty composition,being
a
in
dispositionof
correct
227
requiresgood judgment, the
feelingdifferent
softer lighter,
LEATHERS.
fine,smooth
a
calf kid
when
but
UPPER
pipes,and
is
does
hence
completed. They
not
to the
consequent
not
are
of German
those
as
purposes
the
and
or
required.
factory produce,owing processes,
"
so or
nice
in
English
makes.
German
The
that
appearance of the
Some
sized skins The to
German the
they the
on
makes in
some
skins
introduction
back.
They
as
a
sequence con-
are
chrome
English.
similar
considered of
usually white-backed.
are
the
equal to
makes are
and
grain. The fibres are of such a easily,having a flannellyor loose
skive
are
larger skins,
are
in
coarser
are
nature
kids
to the
The
French
smaller
skins.
cheap cutting,but owing calf
they
are
not
being
228
MANUFACTURE
THE
dressed
sufficient
in
BOOTS
OF
quantities to
AND
SHOES.
the
supply adequately
demand. Calf
and
japanning,
is done
japanning of
paint
is
before
stretched
well
is
Patent
on
the
the
stretched
japanned by coating
are
applied,and
skins
are
dried
in
finallythey stove
a
at
flesh
side.
a
Several
varnished.
The
from
temperature
a
with
blue.
are
or
The
skins
Prussian
linseed, lampblack, and
coats
enamelling
160"
to
170" F. Patent
should
It should
be firm
also
It should
coming Vamps
be
may
folded
patent
should
worked
be
may
utilized.
The
of
a
system,
the
that
Straight
Patent
the
caps
be
point
couple
of
Caps
are
cut
to
in
advantage
considerably
in
rows
class of
to
row
on
regulate row
be
may when
the
the
grain
It is made
quality.
if
cut
second
also
be
may
best
the
placed. systematically tipping is japanned or enamelled
varies
be cut
to the
first
from
may
drawn
peaked,
left
than
cut
Vamps
straightline being cap
Amazeen,
on
when
butt, according a
edges.
appearance
vamp
backbone.
If the
butt. cut
so
a
better
brittle.
not
the
clean-cut
ensure
of the
toe
the
a
japan
to brittleness.
folded,if skived
or
kin, having
across
side
patterns are side, and
in
solid,but or
will
This "
the
grain side,the japan
or
qualityof patent, when
to at
same
be
neck,
each
taken
Luf
edge.
and
work
the
brown
the
board.
turned
"
on
raw
to the
from
cut
to the
next
if left
up
be
little offal.
flabby,and
tendency
any
have
flaws, and
in texture, not
be elastic without
should
and
free from
be
from
splithides. Horse
Hides
dressed
are
as
cordovan,
a
leather
durable, fine in texture, and
polish.
It
should
butts,cordovan horse and the and
hides. easy
to
marketed
be
a
is
high
Crup
from etc.,are made -cross-pieces, portions of Crup, when properly tanned, is waterproof, ; but
wear
feet of the
not
susceptibleof taking lasted so tightlyas calf.
that
wearer. as
if
badly tanned,
Horse
enamelled
hides
horse.
are
The
burns
and
blisters
and enamelled, split, bellies
are
stuffed
OR
CLICKING, and
sold
"flat calf "and Skins
They
shumac
kid.
vary
considerably in
memel
goat, levant
leather
made
selected
goat, and
from
are
a
the
chroming by The
acid
is added chromic
the
manner
reduced
in the water
is
if
and
outline
An
follows
as
carefully of
the
:
"
to
a
in
the
acid
acid.
chromic
this
In
fibre is
and
in
bichromate
the
fibres
fixes itself
salt,which
chromium
green
in boiling quite insoluble, even of fact, converting it into a perfect kind
fibres,rendering "
the
thoroughly struck then drained, or pressed,and passed consistingof thio-sulphateof soda, to In this to liberate sulphurous acid. until
bath
second
of
part
a
they remain through. They are
are
leather.
process
solution
which
of
dition having been brought into a suitable confirst treated in a solution of tanning, are added has been sufficient of potash, to which
liberate
to
a
goats,
skins
bichromate
into
and
varieties
Strasbourg,are
durable
two-bath
for
acid
oily
"
Persian
goats.
glace chromes,
as
very
Moroccos
sheep
skin.
goat
chromed
are
from
made
are
"
for
used
is also
tougher than
dressed.
variously
are
229
size, thickness, and
finer in texture, and
are
tanned
They
hide
Horse
horse
quality. They skins.
LEATHERS.
UPPER
smooth.
grain or
as
Goat
CUTTING
it
leather.
"
bazils."
side
wool.
When
Persian have the
not covers
Glove
tanned
much or
sumach, skins.
value
tawed, and
and
stuffed,they
are
outsides
considered
"
For The
of boots
glove best
are
or
kids of
of
known
the
as
called
are
best. are
as
grain,
"skivers."
moroccos
proportion to
are
or
upper,
Imitation The
sumach.
known
are
called
and
wearing capacity,and
Kid.
chiefly used.
skins
bark
split,the
is in inverse
skins
sheep
with
are
sheep
with
purposes
Sheep
kids.
with
from
by tanning
for leather
they
tanned
made
are
made
tanned
Sometimes
being
Koans
when
Skins
Sheep
not
a
are
sheep skin
its value alum
for
mock
mock
kids.
Sheep
skins
favoured
for
shoes. the
French
skin
of
the
lamb
is
production. They
THE
230
MANUFACTURE
tawed, which
are
After
fleshingthey are
time.
The
skins
with
drenched
mixture
a
tawed
drench.
alum, salt,flour, and
of
and
exposed
to
of
smallness
skins
in
relation
subjected when
is
soft,
very
a
liable
for work
to the
cutting,owing
The
climate.
wet
a
kid
suitable
not
and
cleansed
yolk,and
egg
Glove
dyed.
second
a
now
are
beam.
the
fleshed
then
They
soaked,
are
on
thoroughly
then
pliable,stretchyleather, and to be
knife
blunt
a
skins
The
:
bated," and
"
bran
dried
are
by
are
a
follows
as
unhaired
limed, and
then
to
is done
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
the
pattern, and
the
to
necessityof cuttingall one way of the stretch, and matching of competent the work produced, is only entrusted to men judgment. Russia.
Real
"
durable, and tanned
with
is
from
with
given produced,some
not
should
a
makes
heavy
used
grease
hot-footed
to match
They
sold
memel
as
Satin
tanned
with
smooth
appearance
of the
is to
be
are
memeled
the
grain,
grain split of The
an
easy
can
leather
to cut
for vamps,
and
be
out
Hide, etc., are for
the
satin,but
the
to
carried
the in
grain
is
givesthat largeness up.
The
systematic this
grain splitsof the
and
large hide,
Owing
face,to its fullest extent. used
on
grain is buffed, and
noticeable.
avoided
a
the
those
for
used
times often-
if clean
to
cutting.
are
pattern
hides
great care
curried, and
the
Grain, Glove
evenness
slitters," are
placing of on
is
and
Some
side,it is considered
backbone
the
"
in the
butts.
hemlock. so
of
want
difficult to cut, and
tanned
is the
Hide
The
during
for
manufacture, and
its
termed
are
shoe
in
are
odour
usually fine
is
wearer.
up
heavilyweighted. and
imitations
Many
leather,and
Butts, sometimes
work.
oil.
only having the scented this expensive leather.
it somewhat
be taken
Shoe
its
birch-bark
of
no
adapted for
in colour
It is peculiarodour. willow, poplar,or larch,and the
the
is tanned
Hide
It has
grain.
and strong, pliant,
is very
of them
the characteristics Eussia
leather
distinguishedby
bark
is
scent
Russia
has
leather, similar
not
been
232
THE
and
flanks
a
MANUFACTURE
only
suitable
are
The
Sorting Qualities.
"
for being responsible
one
it is often
open
the
to
sorter
in
a
For
"
patterns,many
to
serve
for several
by
handled
would
have
not
in
Fig.
of
each
and
stopping
second
step
for used
also
usually
found
former
to
be
the
the
a
be
thus in
Offal
cut
ing designbe made
parts may
be
may
factories
cut
that
press.
Revolution
type is illustrated
head, rises
or
or
the
the
at
completion his
operator presses
and
dies
out, returning
highest point, until
released
by
a
treadle.
measuring with
in
use,
machine
collectingthe skin
of
for
dies
work,
in smaller
even
work
beam,
the
on
Machines
The
mallet
suitable
at
qualities.
Topbands, facings,
patterns.
treadle, it descends
the
on
the
pattern,
sometimes
also
several
named
revolution, and, when
foot
are
and
The
181.
of
sets
clicking press
A
for the
of the
of different
one
little consideration
of these
greatest
the
straps, tongues, etc., may
the
dies
for
is
advantage.
to
the
portions
or
one,
portionsof
By giving a
press.
the
stuff
cut
decision
a
used
be
the
placing
variously shaped
large enough
certain
outside
and
under
of
in
obtain
or
smaller- sized
a
making
may
inside
To
that
so
relyingupon
cutter
judgment
positions.
weight
Machinery. knives
to the
of
provided,
for
but
responsiblefor qualities ;
errors
cutting,not
The
considered
large establishments, uniformity of quality is
in very
-
right
be
utilized
shape.
cutter
cutting,several-sized
material, when be
of the
abuse, owing
to
patterns should
may
instead qualities,
be
to
so
or
make
in
wards, after-
to
patterns in awkward
economy
sorted
may
the selection.
adherence
strict
essential,for
the
makes
it
purpose,
be
advisable
It is sometimes a
this
work
cut
into
by separate men,
where
for
SHOES.
AND
cutting leather.
dear
very
BOOTS
OF
surface-area
advantage. the has
various
measured
the
"
There
Sawyer,"
mechanical
measurements
is
placed between
of the
skins
two
kinds
are
and means
the
"
Justice."
provided
observed, when the
roller
or
for the
feed
the
and a
roller
front
wheel.
upper or
feeds
above
slight distance inches
each
from
The
"
other,
allows to the
the
roller
wheel
of the wheels a
and
to
so
an
material
the
anything
is
on
placed
757.
upper
involuted
finger,preventing
registering.
that when
rise,and
of the
substance
of
two
some
mounted
of wheels
number
a
FIG. the
consists
machine
shaft, is arranged,
this
levers,pivotedat the back,
between
"
Justice
233
arranged that the leather put on the its highest point. Separated by a on
shaft,so
board
LEATHERS.
UPPER
CUTTING
OR
CLICKING,
wheel, this
lever
pivoted
automatically adjust used.
On
the
itself
face of each
slot is
made, into which
wheel
from
works
slipping without
THE
234
MANUFACTURE
Attached is coiled the
over
back to
of
the
drum
Before
using,the
with of
in
the
tube
proportion lowering The
lowered,
to
mark
(cut
the
to
a
the
in
of
number
end Each
with
main
a
float carries feet.
represent square
its tributaries
is coiled
the
are
the
round
spindle in
rises,and
the
tube, and, according
main
the
filled
attached
water
to
scale is effected.
the
machine
proved by using pieces
is
foot, half
square
feet
other
tube.
a
The
float.
a
passes
pulleyat
portioned
off.
foot, etc.),
square
the sections,and skin, totalling
a
up
so
of the
accuracy
of cardboard
on
wheel
bottom
to
and
cord
the
wheel, the
the amount
units
tube
main
at
cord, which
a
a
works
placed
equal
When
water.
is
over
the
at
is
of the
is fastened
connected
tube, in which
wheel
passes
SHOES.
AND
rim
cylinder,which
is
lath, marked
each
cord and
BOOTS
the
as
The
metal
tubes
vertical a
the
machine,
hollow
the
spindleof
material.
of
a
the
to
round
OF
This
thus skin
ing obtain-
placed
through the machine, and the area indicated,coincides with that obtained when using the cardboard patterns. The skiving,scarfing,or bevellingof the various parts by machine, is often done in this department,so that any damage may be easilyreplaced,etc. The Douglas skiver (a fixed knife machine) is used for the heavy leathers,and the Amazeen (a revolving knife see Fig. 187, and p. 247) for the lighter leathers. Machines for scollopingthe edges of vamps, caps, toplinings,etc.,are also used, and an illustration of Squire's machine is given in Fig. 182, which of the best for is one this purpose. also used are Toe-cap perforatingmachines "
in this
department.
Costing. Calculatingthe and
qualitiesof and
up not
to
number from
judgment.
selected
a
skin
The
into
requiresa
mode
the
be recommended. of
a
the cut work
of the
cost
"
often
kind
The
considerable
adopted
as
to be
the
of
sections
ence experi-
marking
pattern to be costed cutting up of the skin, or of
them, is very little better,when
parcel,so
various
most
suitable
they are to
is a
selected
produce
the
CLICKING, work
under
be cut
from
consideration,and skins
not
that
the
the cost, as ascertaining work
235
the work It is
is to
impor-
182.
conditions
same
afterwards
favourably selected.
so
FIG.
tant
LEATHERS.
UPPER
CUTTING
OR
should
those
under
be
observed, when
which
the bulk
of the
is to be cut.
For of the
various
qualitiesa
produce. Further, out
to
the
for." and
The the
product are
not
it is desired
instance, suppose
cutter
suppose
to cut
relative
cost
pricesdetermined of the bulk cut
upon
a
brand
dozen
obtain
the
cost
of calf
kid
will
of them
into
to
be
given
what
right up they are fit is then apportioned to the results, used as a basis for testingthe
of the
the
certain
to
same
trade.
"
If the
plan,viz.
the
bulk
of the
kids
Exhaustive,but
have
that
into orders
cut
are
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
236
been
not
SHOES.
AND
selected
to
properly
etc., they will proqualities, duce, that then, the conditions being different from ruling when estimating the sample parcel, the cost will This is the more be uniformly realized. not apparent the
exhaust
the
when the
test
has
cutter
in the
If lots of leather
samples taken of
to be
are
submitted for
cuttingup The
the
way
bulk
skin
is
patterns
costingpurposes, be taken
has
plan. as
be
should
record
careful
a
been
merchant
care
in
prevent inaccuracies
to
lots.
leather
costing.Leather
leather
the
by
selections,and
size,weight, etc.,should
when
"
in
run
cutting,but following the same
lot from
for enhanced
allow
to
"
or
economical
bulk
used
"
worked
"
to obtain
case
restricted
the
into
skins
is
purchased by
be considered
should
bought
hand
per dozen
much
so
"
in
much so by weight ; or by surface per square foot. When in which the manner purchased by weight, the weight is produced should Leather be noted. heavily weighted with fattysubstances or glucose is unprofitable, or
and
;
"
tricky
of the bulk When
stuff.
cut
be
taken
well
of the the
as
of each
bulk,
look
to
measuring
or
the
and
included
in the
usage
and has
that
mentioned material
that and
total,and
labour certain with
labour
are
should
skin
be verified costed
is
skins
some
then
the
is measured
accordingly. together,a
which
advantages,among imperfect
by
of skin, should
the
sometimes
no
be
may
skin, and
measure
Every portion of
be
may
tried
the
of
skin, as
tested,when
be
method
breadth
get the square
to
be relied upon.
should the
should
each
which
brand
Skins and
of
there
that
other
any
length and
not
weight
of the
cost
records
careful
parcel,so
cheaper.
multiplyingthem
Material
and
surface-area
the
to the
is sufficient to add
purchased by measurement, of
mind
buying by hand,
average
disputewith supposed
in
borne
cheaper the cutting,and
the
substance
be
purchased by that the lighterthe a slightincrease in
cutting leather
When
cost.
should
weight, it material
to
cost
properly estimated,
and
may of
be
cutting
any
extra
CUTTING
OR
CLICKING,
the
attention
given by
readily to
his account.
of
limited
a
Fabrics, whether cost
cut
in
the
number
of
will
give the
"
of the a
given
a
fabric is
easily.
(either as and
"
the
that
those
produce
pairs that may be by dividing the priceby obtained
which
The
piece,and
same
quality it is
the
by
for
used the
"
fittings
"
"
or
stuff into
thirds,"
or
the
only way
the cost.
costed
are
questionappears-
seconds,"
cut
be
pattern,and regards shape,that affects
as
"
may
the
over
only when
inferior)the
of
particular part.
taken
area
best,"
"
number
of that
equal all
It is
is credited
qualities,the
amount
an
of the leathers
Many as
pairs
is distributed
area
237
material
are
being known,
area,
cost
question of
the
the
yard, and
per
cost
of
number
his
to
to
LEATHERS.
of difficulty pricesto the several qualitiesbeing many. for outsides or linings, be easilycosted. can
allottingrelative The
cutter
simplest materials
The work
UPPER
of
just
selecting
into
prime
that difficulty is qualities,
experienced. instance, supposing
For
dividing the
cut
as
cost
price
of the
in
they are not, in this though no difference
case
of
Persians
facings.
The
material, and
cut
the
number
socks, by of
socks
be, strictly ing, speak-
may
between
into
some
of the
socks,
sorted,so
they are priced Compare this with a topbands or toplinings,and
case,
existed.
into
facings,by the
by
There
quality
cut
roan
skin
is determined.
difference
a
but
the
a
their
introduction
office,demand
the better
of this selection alters
the
as costing. The topbands are not so valuable the facings,and if topbands only were required,leather inferior in quality and cheaper in price could he used, so that in pricing the cost of facings and topbands, the topwould be priced on such a basis that they could bands the facings. Area he produced in quantity without only the facings are determines the cost is not what here
mode
of
"
enhanced
in
value
the
over
area
cost, for
selection
or
quality purposes. The
cost
be determined
of the
various
qualitiesof
by cutting up
the skins
a
given design may
considered
suitable
238
THE
into
that
MANUFACTURE
OF
design,only
absolutely necessary the work various
This
be
often
cut in
is done
to
then
other
into
be costed
SHOES.
designs where
that
other
at such
a
price that
without
the several
skins, which
After
qualities. The
quantity,if demanded,
produced without producinglargelines
are
"
AND
palpable waste.
save
by assuming
from
in
sorted carefully
qualitiesshould
they could
working
"
in order
is cut, it is
BOOTS
loss.
qualities
yield that
quality
of stock.
cut up yielded five Suppose a skin cost 12s.,and when ladies' lace boots, and one Sorted pair of shoes. pairs of there in qualities, pair best, two pairs were, say, one shoes were The seconds. seconds, and two pairs thirds. To price,start at the lowest quality of the easiest and cheapest produced in quantity. The shoes, cut out of other skins,or roundings, could be produced for, say, Is. be total of this would per pair. The "
1
This, taken divided
to be
shoes
pair of from pro
at
...
the
rata
original cost, would the five pairs. among
pairs of thirds is ascertained being produced in quantity without This would sources. probably be Is. The cost of five pairs is average the
Is. Qd.
Is.
two
used
to
price the
seconds.
The
pair shoes at Is. pairs 3rd lace at Is. pairs 2nd lace at 2s. pair 1st lace at 3s.
1
2
then
1
of
basis
of
its
from
other
Total, 3s.
Qd.
a
9d. 2s. so
The
3d.,and
far
11s.
cost
loss
...
...
2
cost
on
leave
be
may
being, say ".
d.
1
0
3
6
4
6
"
...
9d. ...
...
3d
30 ...
...
12
0
to illustrate is,that all principlethis is intended parts or portionsare priced on such a basis that, if called in a given quantity, it may be to produce them upon done without less loss,or producing other parts that are use-
The
for
utilitypurposes.
Estimating the commended,
cost
viz. that
is often
of first
done
on
obtainingthe
a
plan not average
to
cost
be per
THE
240
MANUFACTURE
the
Taking
OF
BOOTS
per
Ib.
price given
to obtain
the
best
add
50
seconds "
AND
per
add
thirds
25 "
fourths "
"
fifths
A
of
test
cutting,often
proportionof would
rate
be
waste
from
vary
is considered
should
the
fair
when
to, is
to determine
the
the
whole, and
this
cuttings to
or
the
pricing
If it be considered
such
About
the
purposes,
20 per
be noted
It should
from
"
"
as
resorted
cutting.
sellingstuff,etc. for
same
1 in 5 to 1 in 8.
deducted
abatement
12J original.
"
being priced
cent.
per
"
the
"
cent.
33^
"
basis, then
a
as
SHOES.
that
allow
to
nothing
for
slow-
to make
necessary time
proper
cent,
an
do
to
is
so
profitper centage is added. Where facilities are provided for measuring leather,or where skins the costing are purchased by measurement, the
verifyingof
and
Some
basis.
of the
area
certain than
have
absolute
useful
for
area
in contrast
The
the
be
The
Fig. 167, per pair goloshed leg shaped as
as
of 107 area
obtain
To a
sq.
in.,and
would
the
number
be
of
easily the
goloshed leg
and
any
triangleis recognized
best
rules.
gives the triangles
area
which
of
area
would
be
Fig.
92
sq.
is
shows
pair of
a
such
in.
a
a
such
system
Again,
the
gives an area pair per the system as Fig. 168, cutting-
a
168
sq. in.
of
a
calculated to
pattern,first divide it into plane figures. Usually
adopt.
woman's now
the
more
cutting basis.
a
cutting-area, by
on
surface-area
trianglesare each
128
cut
on
a
minimum
the
Fig. 165,
to
surface-
surface-area
to compare
this,refer
sq. in.
90
of the
pattern, giving the
obtained
area
measurement
a
cutting surface
that
straight-topgoloshed leg,and would
the
of
amount
cuttingpurposes, with
of
itself,so
area
on
measuring
shape
the
illustrate
To
done
the
advocated
influences
only
be
may
pattern.
area,
the
same
shoe
so
treated.
calculated,which The
total
of the
shows
Fig. 183
of the
pattern.
may areas
a
The be
man's area
done of
all
of
by the
CUTTING
OR
CLICKING,
"
in
Measure
183.
In this
the
c, d.
In
*
inches
it is 7*1 in.
case
take
calculate
To
Example.
LEATHERS.
UPPER
241
trianglea, b, c, Fig. length of the base, a, 6. of
area
the
Then
perpendicularheight, this
it is 2*8 in.
case
multiply the base by half the perpendicular height,and the product gives The
the
area.
pattern for pattern
certain
a
measuring the between
system may
of
number
a
out
the *
times, and
will
following example
of
Surface-area
Cutting
pattern ,,
"
"
"
"
of
to
cut
system,
of
Cutting (a) cut
=
90
167
=
92
168
=
sq. in. "
"
"
"
107
pattern
169
=
115
170
=
128
5)
J5
J J
))
"
,,
"
"
"
"
"
as
71
175= ,,
"
"
to
system,
176
,,
"
=
81
=
84
"
175
(")
"
"
"
"
Surface-area
165
patterns:
"
"
(a) (6)
Fig.
"
Surface
Cutting
as
difference
the
illustrate
and the cutting -area, surface-surest,
the
*
enclosed.
{ thus
area
given
a
by marking
obtained
The
is to
cutting-area of
The
be
f
rule
,i
cuttingresults of a -area. shaped pattern,an estimate of the cutting particular this used to give the comparative be obtained, and may By keeping
*
careful
records
for convenience
It is recommended
of the
and
accuracy
that
a
decimal
scale
be used.
t Or
half the
J To
get the
useful
base area
multipliedby the perpendicular height may be used. of the shapes thus enclosed,the followingrules will be
:
"
The
rectangle,square, rhombus, or rhomboid, is found by product of the length by the perpendicular height. The circle equals half the product of the circumference by the of the radius multipliedby 3'14159. the square
area
of
a
obtaining the area
of
a
radius, or
B
MANUFACTURE
THE
242
basis
similar The
plan of
cost
that
to
SHOES.
being
arranged
described. in
a
range
standard
the
providing
ascertained,
sizes
AND
qualities
previously
various
the
BOOTS
for
value
the
costing,
for
a
on
OF
may
be
size
sample
or
easily be
known. A
It
is
to
acquainted 7
over
of
number useful
2
to
parts
a
with
the
4's
women's.
the
and
parts
have
be
may
weighed,
and
texture
equal
of
number
cut
table extra
in
cut results
card
from
prepared cost
entailed
cardboard
of
compared
with
in
the
sample
such
on
in
a
cutting,
even
an
pattern. plan say,
be
to
5
to
CHAPTER
FITTING
UPP"R
VII.
AND
MACHINING
CLOSING.
OR
THE is
putting together of the various parts while stitching fitted termed fitting."These parts are, where possible,
as
"
intended The
is
an
shoes.
needle
and
adhesive.
the
performed
thread,
or
by fittingtogether by
portions the
the
actual
be,
effect
pieces that
of
one
patterns
when and of
the
cutting to the
displacement view
has
in
been
be
any
made
to
of
upon
aimed
suitable
fit,part
of to
the that
size
plane
at
seams
To
this
have
the
in
part
made and
The
of the
modus will
on
the
by
the
shape
occupied when
particularcase
adopted
to
been
in
to substance.
due
be
maintained.
have
alteration
pattern
be
to
allowances
the
fittingadopted
which
either
alteration
either
should rigidityof the seam non-yieldingadherents.
stiff and
the
together
preparatory
to
such
should
The
cut
are
cutting-board, or pattern-maker for upon
leather
overlap
with
with
parts
an
large degree
a
object
a
of
fittingdepends
the
The
the
substance.
be increased The
the
unite
to
of flexibility
the
end, the
not
of
and
with
of
use
certain
are
fittingproper,
otherwise
the
boots
means
put
are
without
There
to.
by tacking
work
the
machine,
initiatoryprocesses.
should that
of
of
manufacture
either
of the
parts
be
excellency or
these
various
It may
just alluded to
the
of the
branch
important
directly under
processes
pattern-cutter.
together of fitting
Some
methods
the
designed by
correct
upper and
and
sequent con-
material
fitting, operandi
depend, then, preparing the pattern.
THE
244
To
AND
the
this difference
clearlyunderstand
Take
Experiment. "
this
cut
to
calf-kid,roan, kip, calf,etc. should the
he
laid
short
two
exactly
over
seamed
sides
"
1" in. by 6 in.,and
linen
and
the
the
other
substances
that
seen
piece, it
to
the
get
would
and
be
lining
fit the
to
make
to
necessary
Fig. illustrated
been
beyond H,
lining
the
make
will
experiment the
The
will of
in
first process
cut.
If
have
lay
to
be used.
and
"
the
how
the
materials
out
where
work, and
the
allowed
When
two
for
in
this
the
to
stouter
piece.
The
amount
varies
with
used.
after
ascertain
If, however,
part, P,
to be removed
has
the
counting the
method, flat-paper-pattern made during fittingfor the
fittingis simplifiedand Skiving.
show
actual
them
This
E
necessary
closely to two
be
outside
stouter
the
on
to
material
estimated
of the
substance
parts,etc.,is are
also
will
184.
amount
fit
It
with
it smaller.
by Fig. 184, EH,
the
shows
CD,
as
Eepeat
results.
compare
HP
has
round
seaming they should he hent displacement of the lining noted.
After
184.
mended recom-
lining,glace Persian, linen A piece of the cut-out a piece cut from calf, and together,as abt a'b',in Fig.
piecesof
some
is
:
about
pattern
a
SHOES.
student
try the following experiment
to
use
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
way
allowances substance
correctly
been
pattern, the
they
process
of
cheapened. pieces
of
leather
have
to
be
UPPER
AND
FITTING
overlapped they idea
is that
the
be
must
bevel varies
scarf^or
MACHINING
skived.
suitably
with
reduction
substance, the both.
If
When
reduction
that
taken
underneath "
The
matched be
to
as
than
clumsy,
for
The
For
"
The
kind
and
If
incorrect
turnino--in
a
p.
for
S
work
its
a
of the
term
leaded
of
be
as
different
overlapping,
figure.
same
sort
of
skive
or
""
from
shive, a slice.
timber-joint.
is often upper-leathersplittingmachine portionsof the upper of uniform substance, but the the edges. localities
will
leaving a supporting properties.
purpose
in the
by CD
not
may
is removed
to
the
reduce
materially
that
used
AB
detriment
"
to
substance
be
must
mined deter-
be
only required the
where
skive
will
made
of skive
J An
" Some
the
Where
seam.
overlapping portion
bevel
a
to be derived from
seam.
to
weaken
by Fig. 185,
Supposed
f Derived
solid
a
nicely adjusted,so
be
of the
it be
the
not
yet
o
*
of the
inside
make
to
por-
others
etc.,is illustrated
seams,
be
not
the
bevel, without
proper
should
bring the portion
to
should
the
that
so
strength,then
illustrated
stouter.
"
weakening
its purpose.
substance
on
stouter,
a
the
the
on
done
referringto a lap-joint to a edge of the overlapping portion
seams
reduce
edge.J
by be
for
from
in
substance, it will
to
thicker
uniform
the
apparent
quarters, etc.,are
necessary
tions
the
undue
any
or
vamps
a
of skive
width to avoid
as
here
to
goloshes,care
as
sufficient substance
a
be
it necessary
are
edge, while
retain
must
is
make
we
"
"
feather
will
rally, Gene-
equal
are
affixed
be
mostly
portions
lumpiness
no
This
upper.
would
such
skiving
united
modified
by bevellingshouldj be is to
The
joined,shall present
be
to
lighter material
a
the
then
substances
two
skive*
case.
In practicethis would be the'appearanceof one. accordingto the strength of the materials skived. if the
245
The
of each
the conditions
substances, when
two
CLOSING.
OR
confuse
is reserved
this
term
with
for the inserted
used
beaded."
"
"
to make
reduction
bead."
The
the here
various refers
correct
to
usage
MANUFACTURE
THE
246
a
of
turned-in
the
that
substance
in two
of
ways.
feather
"
to
a
be
part should
original substance edge
"
SHOES.
AND
material.
This
The
skive
be
in such
a
main
portion
together equal
the
may
the
to
be
may
plished accom-
gradually brought
that
manner
be
in should
portionthat is turned when in positionthe
The
scarf is desirable. of such
BOOTS
OF
turned
when
in
together with the leather of the body, be of the of the original. This kind of substance turning-in skive of in Fig. 186. It is the form is illustrated by A and a it may,
"
"
skive of
skiving
It is the "
"
reduced
to
curl when
by
of
the
Fig. 186.
edge
cause
of the
to the gauge
way
turning-in
"
would
other
b in
and
to
substance
edge,which
being put
B
adaptable
The
feathered
a
shown
most
machines.
The
turning-in.
turning-in is of skive
sort
folding
to
for
hand
for
adapted
most
"
or
is not
tendency
a
foldingmachine.
*
Fig. 186. The
be performed, skiving by the hand-process may from the body of the by pushing the knife away the or by drawing the knife during usage towards
either user,
who
person while
the
latter
of calf
nature
long,clean bites. the
skives.
be
should
of
work
taken.
uniform
folded-in
taken.
the
followed, be
work
The
kip.
or
with
is used
former
skiving
the
of the material
At
any
throughout should
be twice
as
a
skive
must
length. wide
as
sweep
as
The the
the
or
and
knife
which
determine
its entire
strokes
of the
cutting edge
rate, the
of
by taking
short
by
as long G-enerally,
turning-in,
be done
may
knife, or will
for
materials
adaptable for
more
condition
texture
is to
is
sweeps
The
The
practice possible leave skive
fold
to
the for be
248
THE
OF
MANUFACTURE
The
impracticable.
of
easy
"
to
Amazeen transmitter.
1400
revolutions
that
the
the left
on
disc motion
to
revolves bevel
bevel
central
screw,
shaft
works
of skive
roll.
The
to be
bevel before
adjusting screw. the
scarf. with
This
the
on
is well
shaft
is made
to
also
to
the
will
the
any
raise
and will feed-
should
with
the
the
be
knife-
knife
the
a
the
thumb-screw
before
knife-screw
prevent feed-roll,should
the
by
on
gear
adjustable
main
adjustment It
is driven
by screw knife-bracket-adjusting the desired given angle to the
gear
any
gives extremity
gear
bevel
loosening the
the
and
knife
is
knife-bracket
1200
seen
its lower
raw-hide
driven
from
and
The
E.
a
is
gear, to the feed-
worm
at
speed high-
new
by Fig. imparts motion,
and
another
roll-feed
the knife
machine
makes
machine
worm
shaft,that
enable
of
of
means
The
desired
The
It will be
vertical
knife-shaft.
means
of the
right
that
gear
loosened
shaft
knife-
the
"
balance-wheel minute.
the
the
Machine.
per
hand, by a
added
leather-skivingmachine The
main
To
D.
"
Amazeen
"
"
a
187
splendidly protected,
the
to
Descriptionof from
SHOES.
operator. The other improvements make manipulation and adjustment.
minimizing accident and adjustingscrew more
also
are
cogs
AND
BOOTS
by
bevel
of altering knife coming in contact knife be adjusted for a
flatter skive.
place the guide
To be
be turned
should
to
roll, so the
edge
edge
without
uniform
for
of the
back
"
of
edge top
material
or
may
The
knife.
of the
edge
The
the
that
bring
to
the
over
in front
as
back
come
the position,
screw
so
The
operator.
The
the
released,and
in
guide
is
the
feed-roll
shaft
towards
the
shaft
justed guide should be adhighest part of the feedbe
close
presented directly to is returned as
that the
so
possibleto
the
knife
contact.
knife
must
be
kept keenly sharp
to
produce
skiving.
Amazeen
"
will
produce excellent
if carefullystudied turning-in, Machines
of the
the
shaft
as
S should
set-screw
are
also used
for
by
the
reducing
work, especially operator.
or
skiving the
toe
portionof the
with
the
allow
visible Ink.
of the
edge
The
"
leather.
of vamps,
be
coloured
it
composition that coloured goods,the ink
smeared
over
and
toe-cap
it will be necessary is to
This
curves.
flat to the leather, and serrations
or
care
reach
do not
to
goloshes,quarters,etc.,if not the
same
of
face
the
as
If for
to the leather.
be
of the
the
of such
and
black,* ~b"jet
f should
stain
or
confined
be
tint
same
hair, will be useful The
of the
toe-caps or
by
vamps
marker, compass,
prior to
parts would
executed
The
good
work
of
means
black
ink
may
of
perforating perforatingpliersor the
of facingsby means non-cuttingawl, demand
either
by
hand
be turned
should The
the
bo
in
sulphate of iron and spreading. dyes are useful for this
of
bichromate
is added
When knife
is
out evenly throughbe
of
decoction
a
careful
quarters,or short
a
from
facing-
machine.
or
turning-inmay
made
a
parts.
regular amount portions of topbands
by taking
turned-in
edge
the
to
as
fittingtogether of
course.
line,or
A
inch
an
hand-processa dull,blunt,
The
its entire
edge.
the
be done
the
by
used.
marked
of
side, which
either
Turning-in of the edges of the vamps,
The
often
blunt
or
be
not
for this purpose.
machine, marking imitation
other
plate
Preparatory Processes, such
Other
attention
metal
a
one-sixteenth
to within
reaches
edges, and
the
to
leather.^ A fine,short-haired
the face of the
tooth-brush, protectedby
which
the
positionof
readily adheres
ink
should
The
added
vamp-toe,
material.
the
*
the
should
ink
If black, the
a
the
skives
fold.
edges
in, should
turned
largelyused
size.
that the nicks
be taken
should
for.
is
the
portion to lay
folded
249
machine
skiving,if for turned-in work, nick the edges of the inside or
the
CLOSING.
OR
machine
Another
operation marks figuredenoting the
to notch
as
"
Gott
"
same
After
the
The
vamps.
this purpose. at
MACHINING
AND
FITTING
UPPER
to
from and
a
the
dullcut
facings
logwood chips,to A
potash.
little gum
will prevent
t Aniline
J To
remove
ink
parts of tartar with
stains from one
purpose.
fabric
oxalic
part of powdered
alum
acid is
should more
not
be used.
suitable.
Two
MANUFACTURE
THE
250
should
show
Machines
This
machine
over,
and
so an
for
The cuts
and
shape,flat should
the
nicks
or
or
them.
The
Work
when
turning-in,which is best done made, and not by allowing on which
amount
Uniform should
varies
skiving
is also
that
be twice
the
at
of the
Fig. The
"
A
or
in
is
by
may
this
amount
the
patterns
of
the
the
cutter.
of skive
width
portion.
188.
machine, is illustrated folder,or turning-in
followingwill give the principalparts :
The
by Fig.188.
By
"
Lufkin
edges
-edge pattern
raw
discretion
folded-in
them
"
"
essential,and
ing vary-
folder.
turns
even
by having a
"
folded
to be
cutting an to
requiring
Lufkin
"
edges,folds
curved. on
them
width.
adaptablefor
is the
flattens
left
have
uniform
of
are
of its kind
or
of
leather
others
SHOES.
AND
turning-in,some
best
compresses
be to any machine
of
bead
given shape, while
a
shapes.
for
used
are
of
work
level
a
BOOTS
OF
the
"
that
be operated by the thumb. may to give the cuts lowering it, the knife may be made nicks closer together or finer. This will be necessary in
turning
the
feed,
The
feed
cuts
to the
B
C
or
If the
curves.
general work
on
the
is set
to
nut
is moved
serration
is
give
about
lower
the
up,
greater. 10
to 14
inch.
be
is the
smaller
distance, between
is the
It should
nut
lifter used raised
to
when
feed-bar
raise and
placing the work presser-spring. The
feed-bars.
to be
folded.
pressure
on
UPPER
FITTING
the
AND
feed
feed
should
the
be
CLOSING.
251
light as possible,just sufficient
as
to
leather.
The the
OR
MACHINING
D
screw
former
will
increase
when
desirable
the
pressure,
feed
slips. E is the ball-screw thumb-piece used to regulate the stroke of the folding-lever. It should be so adjusted that when the folding-lever, the folded material is under and the link on the driving-wheel is at its highest,the the If it does not move, spring should slightly move. should
F
nut
only being
the
decrease
or
little.
a
the
screw
be
the
loosened, and
If
the
folding-leverhas
E
is turned
of
out
the
G- is adjustable,and gauge width of the turned folded or
the
leather when
gauge
;
curve
of
a
work
be
first to prevent
removes
lever,K,
the
The and
the
work
a
machine
is or
certain
raised
the
gauge
at
towards
up
the
folding-
the
the
nicking
400
revolutions
driving-wheelhas
three
respectively.
The
per
minute,
grooved wheels, transmitter
adjusted
coated
cement "
*
and
The
allowed
skived to
when
It is used
knife.
speed
will.
The
mutilation.
correspondinggrooved wheels, enabling the at
the
knife.
about
run
work,
the
on
pressure without
pass
under
the
3 in. diameter
pressed harder
pressed down, prevents
passing
is under
balance
to
when
seam
5, 4, and
when
of the
seam
the
as
fold.
a
some
be
such
little from
a
away
wide
too
lever,enabling of the
kept
towards
starting
right-hand lever,H,
operator, other
When
regulate edge of the guide-
The
edge.
should
necting-link. con-
to
reached,
are
material
gauge.
should
The
curves
the
vamp,
the
against
inside
is used
is directed
folded
be
pressure,
balance-wheel
the
in
turned
much
too
The
to
E
screw
edges
dry, being
in
are
has to
condition
be
with when
tacky." The
knife
requires
careful
attention.
It
should
be
sharpened on its bevel edge only, and the cutting edge kept perfectlysquare with the sides. It is adjustable,so *
Made
of carbon.
from
virgin
It should
rubber
be fine,and
dissolved not
too
in
naphtha, benzine, or bisulphide stringy.
THE
252
as
of
to an
go
MANUFACTURE
below
inch, and
the set
OF
under-knife so
that
the
BOOTS
cutter-block
or
cuts
are
edge as possiblewithout being visible when inside curves. so on especially
Fig. The on
under-knife
its front
face where
or
SHOES.
AND
a
the
on
folded
the
near
as
sixteenth
face.
This
189.
cutter-block the knife
should
passes.
be
It must
sharpened be
kept
UPPER
straightso
that
close to the
knife
a
is illustrated
also
are
of
the
The
of
success
substances
depends
contact
with
surfaces
to this
are
affixes
and
scollop,and
is
Machines
and
fancy-stitching indicating the design of
stitchingbe
if ornamental flowering, "
shape
markers, for
flower
Adhesives.
It moulds
back-strap beading,
for
perforators or
189.
expedite button-work.
to
adjusted
Urquhart button-scollop
The
"
the
to
machine
used
etc.
be
must
253
clean.
cut
by Fig.
beading
useful
very
it may
Beaders,
insertion
the
that
so
CLOSING.
OR
knife, and
fit the
it may
Button-Piece
beader
MACHINING
AND
FITTING
needed. adhesive
an
upon
the
to be
united.
used
unite
to
of
using quite dries much the pasty substance itself. Paste as as by be little as possibleshould as evaporation,and therefore used. The tenacityof an adhesive depends upon its intimate
two
the
dirt and
time
is the
Paste made of
used
term
by mixing
tenacious, brown is
Starchy
a
mass,
starchy pastes it adhesiveness
with
boilingwater
and
is
cheap.
smooth, when
*
green,
and
be mixed and
the
lumpy. to
the
starch-
is
sticky,
a
a
speedy decomposition. to
mass
to
add
a
smooth
in
It should in
is added
prevent mould,
some
add
To the
added
to be
are
flottr is rich
good paste. Alum
ing paste, boil-
quickly stirred. glue,to increase
Preservatives
stiffness.
making, and,
in cold
starch, although less durable.
It makes not
Gluten
mass.
prevent decomposition.* Rye
to
is insoluble
Starch
two
than
is advisable
and
of
consist
liable to
being added,
water
used
Most
water.
very
should
materials
with
cereals
glutinous
adhesive
more
of
gluten.
covered
when
but
swell, forming
cells
It
and
by rubbing
and
ingredientsthus
substances, starch water,
removed
obstacles
hammering. Sufficient drying before stitching. to signifythe homogeneous mass
flour
the
farinaceous
the
for
be allowed
must
chief
The
be
may
surface
into the
paste well
the
Air
air.
manner
gluten, be
quite cases
many
acid. salicylic
acid, oil of winterCarbolic, sulphate of quinine, oil of cloves, salicylic and
boric
acid,
are
used
to
prevent
fermentation
and
as
an
secticide. in-
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
254
Dextrine, starch
broken
blunted
and
glycerine is
added.
sometimes
for leather When
water.
allowed
its
is
dry of
cause
brittleness, adhesive
more
vermin. It is very
somewhat
adhesive, but leather
the
on
the other
with
into contact
being put
by
rubber.
dry
to
lessen
Dextrine
is disliked from
is made
Cement be
hot
To
needles.
pastes,and
flour
must
is used
gum
or
SHOES.
AND
brittle,and, if excessivelyused, is the
it is very
than
in cold
It is soluble
purposes.
British
or
gum,
BOOTS
before It dries
substance.
proof against insect life. Cold-iuater Glue is made by mixing (a) and (b),putting in a steam bath the mixture until corporated thoroughly in-
flexible,and
is
"
(a)
1
quart water,
1 Ib. fish
The
glue
(6)
Dissolve
to soak
,,
in
Shoemakers with
water,
warm
added
Paste
glue. 2"
oz.
2^
oz.
in water
calcium,
"
is made
of water.
by taking barley-meal and,
into
mixing
night. magnesia,
chloride
quart
one
all
a
thick
paste. Hot
is
water
bring it to the required consistency. It should then be placed in a warm place to ferment, which may be ascertained smell. This is a tenacious, by the sour to
smooth
paste, free from
A
paste
may
be
lumps,
and
is
splendidadherent. dragon or gum gum
from
made
a
tragacanth. There such
as
several
are
the
"
proprietary pastes Shoe
Sphinx
Paste
"
and
"
For
affixing patent beading, an gelatinein acetic acid may dissolving Modes
differ in
may of
of
certain
two
by
the
headings, flat and Flat fittingis the "
"
round term
"
made
by
be used. of processes
adoption or
machines, the principlesmay "
market,
Gum."
adherent
"
caused fitting,
the
Hedoral
Fitting. Although the sequence
"
"
on
rejection
be classified under
fitting.
used
to
describe
processes
256
THE
MANUFACTURE
of iron
16
to
end
one
rotated. which
in.
this
"
also
of
allows
it to
revolve.
also
the
"
cuts
out
an
to
collar,
a
of the
arm
be
can
is fastened
collar to
it
to
a
shape
down. for are
this
purpose,
and
either
good
makes.
The
latter
if
welt
a
Fig. 190
seam.
The
"
Union
is fastened
this bar
used
also
are "
Attached
handle, by which
gives origin
part required to rub
SHOES.
AND
in. in diameter.
1" a
end
or Rapid ploughs or
down
is
other
Machines the
bar
The
which pedestal, of the
about
long,and
of
BOOTS
OF
shows
welted,
as
well
as
rubs
seam-rubber.
a
Fig. 190. Treatment
of the
upper
(a) By so
that
of
may
"
be treated
leaving
they
are
the
either
the the
insertinga
the
various
outside
raw-edge, i.e.
stitched.
liningto
show
outside, and bead
between
a
level bead.
trimming the
in both
outside
and
off
outside
lining. (e) By turning
sections
"
lining and
flush when
(b) By turning in (c) By turning in lining. (d) By
edges of
The
Edges.
lining.
the
and
UPPER
FITTING
If
the
AND
edges
MACHINING
be
to
are
OR
bound, they
CLOSING.
257
done
either
are
by(1) The
arranged equally accommodated
(2) The being first
stitched
outside
similar
the
laid over,
"
out
edge"
work
There
are
outside
to
press
stitched
and
ing, stitch-
are
lining are
very
brought
edge as possible. again, giving a very
former
the seam, for
bagging general use, as
in
of
consists and
on
a
or
same
the
obviate
used
for
of
use
rubbing
and
the
turned-over
beading
the
Watson
machines. and
the
couple of fingersmade
line with
a
hammering
to
stitched-on
"
or
this
flat. The
folding-outlevers arranged hammer, enabling smaller curves
in to
latter machine
front be
arrangement of the
anvil
operated upon
greaterfreedom.
with
Laced
Women's "
fitting
a
Boots.
woman's
suit the class of work used. be
"
known
types
machines
The
the
and
"
"
bagged
"
are
is the hammer has
and, after
(e). This produced by method the edges is largely adopted to
with
Machines.
The out
binding being the lining over,
the
to
near
as
and
of
two
Columbia.
pulled
to that
dealing
for
seams
binding
well
methods
"bagged"
or
out
cost
Bagging
the laid
turning in, and paste during fitting.
reduce
the
then
"
well
amount
seamed
turned
of
style
"
then
of the
appearance
method
"
method
and
the
face
together and It is then
lining,that is,
off.
The
similar.
is
binding
seamed.
run-and-turn
"
and
outside, and
the
"French-bound"
trimmed
the
U-fold.
the
to
being placed above The
outside
the
bound-and-held-over
"
the
to
where
method,
cover
between
(3) The closed
to
liningand
the
over
"
flat-bound
"
so
When
stage. The fitted work
that
boot
and
the
and stitching
are
greatlysubdivided,
there
is
followingorder as
an
of processes sequence the flat is modified on
lace
the processes
arranged
The
"
example
no
of :
loss of time
other
to
machines it should
between
procedureis given
of
for
"
s
each
paste-
StitchingProcess.
FittingProcess.
Seam
(2)
inked,
and
(1) Work skived facings marked.
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
258
webbed,
closed
of
linings,
strapped, or as required.
stitched
open-
(3) Quarters closed, openings stitched (ifrequired),and facstitched.
(5) Topbands, etc., stitched
(4) Topbands, facings,and side-liningspasted on. rubbed
(6) Seams
fitted to
quarters
(7) Quarters
and
down
and
linings.
lining
round
stitched
seamed
at toe.
flat slab allowance
(Ifon must
on.
at heel
be made
stiffeningsubstance
and
outside,
of
stretchiness
for
etc.) in. turned Edges of fittings (8)Stayed,and vamp fitted.
stitched
(9) Vamp
included
tongue
and
on
treated
or
separately.
prefer to punch the upper plan to be recommended.
Some a
Buttoned.
Women's
piece to
the
former
The
before
quarter before method
for flat
When For
the
may
be
is
completing generally liked
the
owing
If the
The
button-piece. to
the
patterns
are
worked
the
former
is
are
trouble
correct,
usually preferred.
will paste fittingthe following description
serve
as
an
:
"
Process. Stitching
FittingProcess.
(1)Skiving,inking,buttonholes,* etc.,
on
holes,the latter is the cheaper method, however.
holes
illustration
fitted
by practicallycompleting the buttonattaching to the quarter, or by attaching it
the lining. experiencedin fitting and
boot
button
ing, vamp-
either
plans,
two
"
eyelets before
for
marked.
Button-
(2) Lining closed,webbedstrapped,or open-stitched,
piece beaded. *
Sometimes
this is done
in the
cutting-room.
MACHINING
AND
FITTING
UPPER
259
and
closed
(3a) Quarters
fitted, side-
(3) Topbands linings.
CLOSING.
OR
stitched.
Button-piece and stitched round worked (if required),button-piecestitched
open
to
-
quarter.
(4) Topbands, etc.,stitched. seamed buttonto Lining lining. (5)Lining fitted to quarter. in. Topband turned (7) Yamp fitted.
(6) of
round, and
toe
lining seamed. (8) Vamp stitched. METHOD.
ALTERNATIVE
FittingProcess.
(1) Skive, ink,
Stitched
StitchingProcess.
mark
(2)
holes,
Close
linings, web,
strap, etc., close
etc.
to
quarter
and
button-piece
close
quarters.
if
(3)
Fit
linings. (5) Fit
topbands lining
to
in
topbands, button-piece.
turn
(7)
Bar
Men's
and Laced
flat, of which
the
side-
Open seam required. (4) Stitch lining to buttonpiece lining.
outside,
and
bead
(6) Stitch round,
(8)
there
"
are
stitch
button-piece. Seam lining.
vamp. Boots.
and
to
Men's
work
two
modes
Stitch
is fitted of
of
toe
vamps.
either
procedure
of the flat and block by a combination following descriptionof the operation will fittingon the block :
block, The
and
or
"
on
the
on
the
methods. illustrate
"
After
the
work
is
skived, inked, etc.,the
liningsare seamed, and, if required,webbed, backstrapped, or openThe stitched. pasted and topbands and facings are The stitched fitted to the block. on. lining is now backs The or down, stitched, legs are closed, rubbed Outside outside stitched or or facings are strapped. stitched. The lining is lightly pasted or quarter-leg pasted. The quarter-legor back is fitted to the lining, the turning in done. and After hammered, drying it the last and is removed from After round. run again
260
MANUFACTURE
THE
putting
block, the vamp
the
on
The
stitched. before
A
the
variation
work,
when
of which
is
parts
closed
at the
wards after-
and
is
pasted punched
often
adopted
for
machine,
a
flat-bed
a
on
on
and
eyeleted
goloshed brief
scription de-
given.
fitted
topbands be
not must lining,which quarter or leg is fitted,and
the
to
The
back.
The
usual.
skived, etc.,as
are
facings are
and
SHOES.
is
upper
fittingis
stitched
AND
pasted on.
are
vamps
of flat
The
BOOTS
OF
topbands, etc., turned in, and The toe of lining is seamed,
the
quarter stitched
the
round.
the
golosh fitted on, and of the heel. inch The closed to within an lining and and loop fastened, leg is closed, and outside, inside-strap, and the golosh stitchingcompleted. Men's
Buttoned,
fitted in several
Like
"
other
and
designs,this
boot
be
may
ways.
skiving,inking, etc., the linings may be closed, backstrapped, topbands and button-lining stitched on, and stays for buttons The pasted on. quarters are now the button-piece attached, and, if to be closed, etc., and then be placed to It should beaded, the bead affixed. the Careful round. lining and seamed turning and rubbing out should be the next operation. The buttons should the be and front sewn on whipped up, and goloshed by one of the usual methods. After
Fitting without be obtained
when
the
usually adopted.
and be
dotted
patterns
the
best
results
be
made
those
over
portions in Fig. 191, A, show lines indicate the topband intended
are
to
do
duty
heel
when it is pasted to lasting, stiffener, obviatingany pleats,which would
the
left loose
seen
of material, the
substances
liningis
this method
closed
strap held
lining at
until
when
on
as
and
far
as
is the
stitched
to
certain stitching,
while
the
several be
enable
work
shaded
The
If the
facings.
To
pattern should
The
is removed.
what and
"
holding the
in
modifications
Pasting.
in
for
must
strap
otherwise
its
entirety. The golosh height,and the inside
adopted to
a
similar
position.
The
UPPER
FITTING
AND
MACHINING
Fig.
191.
OR
CLOSING.
261
262
MANUFACTURE
THE
quarters B, Fig. 191, the
facing
stitched turned side
marked.
to
the
and
run
turned
are
back
The
of
topband
the
at
held
on
idea
of
AND
in
The
stitching.
the
the
front, and
The
lining.
top
quarters
tongue (b) at
are one
capped, etc., and
is
golosh
the
placed carefully in position,and
back, and
while
SHOES.
closed, etc., and
is
the
down
round, catching in the
(see C, Fig. 191).
closed
BOOTS
OF
This
description will give according being modified
principle,it
an
to
circumstances.
Sewing Machines. for
There
"
Some
stitchinguppers.
stitching three, or of
this
at
lines of
class
of
are
one
others
the
also
are
type is used
Motion
etc.
latter The
ornamental
or
from
of electric motors
use
when
the
from
the
from
has
of the
arrangement
of
source
essential
stitches
crewel-
foot
steam,
for "
work,
power,
machines
is
such etc.
power, other
the
engine.
advantages, especially at
considerable
a
where
or
distance
irregular
an
required.
for
mechanisms
or
or
gas,
many
is located stitching-room main
two,
making button-holes, lace-holes,
derived
obtained
being
The
for
be
may
make
manufactured
half-chain, zigzag, overseaming,
Another
will
plain
cylinder,post, or fiat-bed,
Machines
automatically making fancy as
of
row
stitchingsimultaneously. Machines
either
pillar description.
are
make
only
of machines
varieties
many
operation, while
an
more
are
the
formation
of
a
stitch
"
Device
(a)
for
carrying thread
through
the
material,
viz. the needle.
(6) Arrangement viz. the
for
determining
the
length
of
stitch,
feed.
(c) Appliance for taking the thread and forming the stitch, viz. the looper, shuttle,or rotatinghook. or for keeping thread threads taut, or (d) Contrivance viz. the tension.
(e) Arrangement while
These
stitch is
results
possible strain
holding
being formed, viz.
should to
for
the
be
material
the presser
accomplished
sewing medium,
with
whether
in or
position clamp.
the it be
least
silk,
264
MANUFACTURE
THE
The
lock-stitch
under The
second
or
value
with
the
the
sectional
that
with
view
of the
of
the
the
near
Formation
centre
The
"
oscillations
in
continuous action
to
The
second
stroke
previously made, drawn
up
second
loop.
similar
the
spreading given. of
of
This
the will
chain
a
of
the
loop be
of
needle
has
looper
detains
the
rising.
is further
the
through The
loop
rotating looper
the
understood
is very
only during the
of
twist
by
an
is
loop
first
looper detains
the
complete
better
the
is made
vibrating one; a
loop.
point is arranged
the
needle
the
small
a
ing gradually approach-
The
while
action
forms
is formed.
material
The
that
needle
has reached
begins to rise,and has previously lain
loop when
the
it goes
it
been
little.
a
a
descends
with
the needle
needle
the
by
or
needle, during
The
machine,
needle, and
the
and
the
to
to
of
arc,
that
it while
spreads
may
inter-
looper." be by
"
a
restricted
the
point
194.
thread, and
a
looperhas
risen
twining inter-
by
device
When
thread
enter
a
stitch.
by
material, and
the
its lowest
the
work
this
of
the thread.
The
shows
is formed
rotation.
closelyto
adjusted to
of the
the of
the
accuracy
threads
two
chain-stitch
through
the
been
underside
action
the
upon
thread.
Fig. 193, A,
beneath
The
upper
the
possible; Fig. 193, B, gives
as
top and
of Stitch.
the
has
material.
looping a single thread
Fig.
depends
lock-stitch, the
of the
appearance
of
interlockingpoint
centre
as
the
thread
interlocking of
the
by
of this class of stitch
which
fall in
is formed
SHOES.
AND
BOOTS
OF
the
thread
is
examination
Fig. 194. To
form
a
lock-stitch
a
charged with thread, which loop formed by the needle upper thread.
thread
is thrown
over
shuttle
or
is made on
the
its
rotatinghook to
pass
upward
is used
through
journey, or
spool containing the
the the
under
UPPER
FITTING
The it
needle
before
as
lowest be
point begins the
the
rise
to
point
it and
loop,enlarging when
of the
taking
needle
by. Fig. hook
loops
out
by
for
leather
grooves, to
carry
owing the
The
the
slack-
thread
have
work
196. with
rotary
by Fig. 196.
sewing-machine depends upon
two
necessary
through the
the
thread,
tendency
of
after
close
to
piercing. One
of than
longer when
needle
other, and
the
(Fig. 197, A)
groove away
the short
the
from
shuttle groove
or
long should
point
hook.
8
in
needle
bar, the
-
is
grooves
setting the
the
be
the
of
B
C
Fig.
D
197.
The
(Fig. 197, B)
should
always
;
is illustrated
Needles
needle.
material
a
to
thrown
are
rendered
to
of
its
highest point,a
stitch
the
is illustrated
action
that
of
this
under
This
is formed.
formation
The
"
its
loop
a
enters
it the to
with
it reaches causes
Fig.
similar, and
is very
the
with
195.
195.
Needles.
shuttle
returned
has
This
slowly.
complete interlockingstitch
Fig.
when
sewing material, and
the
265
CLOSING.
through the material, taking
descends
thrown, and
and
OR
MACHINING
AND
face
the
shuttle
266
or
hook the
the
latter
long
looper
shuttle
the
long
to the
protectsthe
groove
hook
or
AND
the
to
enter, is performed by
loop (Fig. 197, C),
threading
short groove
thread
SHOES.
of
Similarly,when
groove.
from
BOOTS
throwing
The
point.
for
thread
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
from
always
up,
(Fig.197, D). The undue injury during
Sufficient sewing material through the material. paid out through the eye of the needle to form a
its passage be
must
for
loop large enough hook
to
through.
After
the
the
thread
shuttle
or
drawn
again of
eye it
is
the
and
as
relation
the that
so
passing
to
The
thread.
eye of the needle be
be
friction
to
the
fro of the
and
sage, pas-
through needle,
by
pass
must
subjected
caused
the
fore there-
must
perfectlysmooth, large as possiblein size of
the
to
the
needle. needle
If the
large
size
the
for
stitches; and
miss
if it be too
and
in such
top
of the in
file-mark the hook if too
low
in
hole
Figs. 221 the
it is
shank
should
222, the needle
that
the
Care needle
likelyto damage have
In
and
the
same
the
small, the
self-setting,
is
be inserted
needle-bar.
larly, simi-
of the machines
most
needle
the
needle-bar.
machines
set, it should
Fig. 198.
the
cases
on
the
will
will be broken.
thread In
the
of
machine
thread, the
Fig. 198.
be too
eye
the
is set hook.
relation
machines
should
should
rightto be
be
the
trated illus-
set to the
taken
with
correctly,because When correctly
as
that
shown
by
FITTING
UPPER
When
AND
of the
groove the
When
needle, and
advisable
loop
may
be
a
A
twisted
similar
the
other The
work as
is eye
way,
thrown
those
the
of the
the
267
threading
thread
end
until
in the
it enters
thread
is
in
twist
needle,
the
on
hook
is
that
so
of
the
199. will
thread
the
needle
the
the
squarely
it
employed,
will
be
be
treated
slightlyturned
in in
direction.
point the
but
end
slightly turn
to
reverse
the
lowering
Fig. shuttle.
CLOSING.
by Fig. 199.
hard
extra
sometimes the
by placing
illustrated
as
eye,
OR
rotary presser-wheel is used
a
be facilitated
may
MACHINING
of the
points are used
needle chisel-
for fabric.
variously positioned in of the needle.
The
sharp, and
be
must
of
shaped, instead The
direction
taper
chisel-shaped or
relation
to
the
of the
for leather or
round,
flat
direction
point of the
cutting or piercing
268
THE
point
MANUFACTURE
OF
of the needle
in relation
largelydetermines in the
pointed point for
is
more
has
to be
the
line of
stitchingvery
stitch
of
off,"a needle
stitch
stitching; but for
or
that
work
stitchingis required.
sometimes for cloth, linings, fabrics, and leathers, a needle with a round point ( " ) is used. of needle
is also advisable
Needles
that
stitch is
required
a as
"
a
thus
is
pearly
well
"
point that
thus
the
to
what
stitch
is
This
required to
cuts\, points should
When
leather.
that
be
be
known
makes
used
that
cut
a
than
sunken
more
the
where
is sometimes
stitch,a point is selected
.
the
drawn
required,giving
If the
"
to be
for work
used
are
light
stitchingelastic gussets.
for
perforatethus /
face stitch
slit
the
cuts
For
kind
the
punctures the
work,
stout
posited de-
differently
"pearly"
a
stitch and
or
when
of work
to the line
heavy
hammered
"
kinds
spreads the
for
stitch
line of
For
less transverse
SHOES.
AND
of the
various
selected.
that
or
parallelto
to the
appearance For
are
one
sunken
a
that
work.
needles
used
leather
the
BOOTS
puncture
|. Various
names
of their needles The
W.
"
"
; for instance
W."
the
given by
are
for
makers
points
the
"
are"
names
Eeverse. Flat.
and
Cross
flat.
|
that
cut
used
for Face
Sunk
O.S.
Spear.
/
$ Sunk
stitch.
Twist.
Twist.
stitch.
Sunk
\ Sunk
stitch.
slitch.
stitch.
The
Singer
"
"
Bound. that and
used
cut
"
Twist.
|
I
Sunk
fabric.
Cross,
Wedge.
Keverae.
y
"
for Elastic and
are
names
Flowering
Drawn
stitch.
face
stitch.
Sunken
or
stitch.
more "
The
Bradbury
Co.
Flat that
The
or
the
following:
the
needle
"
Cross,
Twist.
chisel.
|
cut
point of
use
than
reverse."
/ may
be
named
in
reference
to
UPPER
FITTING
the
direction
and
would
AND
MACHINING
in relation
it takes
be
follows
as
The
the
to
needle-eyeplane,
"
of needle "
leather
"
""
eye
point would
cut
"
/
''reverse"
"
"
"
round
of
size
is known
is not
that
This
makers.
the
using Stubbs'
this variance
partly accounts
of
The
needle
with
a
that
is
material
enable
will
with
Feeds.
similar
a
Some
"
the
a
few
tests
taken
givenWheeler's ,,
Jones'
No. ...
...
""
?"
""
""
?"
Jones'
...
(Hollington's make)
Singer's(Hollington's)
)"
(Perkins')
...
Singer's(Company's)
needle
ing select-
the be
one
when
of the
of
the
stitching
softness used
of
when
thread.
must at
to
sizes
to choose
filled up
nature
few
given
a
when
thread," is well
a
Perhaps
various
in mind
fortunately un-
desirable
that, with
selection,as
substance
arrangement
of
results
"
The
smaller-sized
a
bear
size
micrometer.
employ
will be
place.
in
by making
for the fact
given
that its
a
closers
a
number, but
a
seen
or
point to
also influence
will
The
hole
a
depositedin
compared
*
use
punctures
thread
silk
to
be
gauge
needle, various
stitchingmaterial.
by
uniformity
can
tests,*either
number
9
"
needle
a
there among
cloth
or
"
The
269
CLOSING.
:
direction "
OR
the
be
eye
provided of the
needles
to
move
are
here
THE
2;o
the
along
work
by given
be
must
automatic, and the
beyond
The
the
In
above
it
it
as
(2) The
by
machines
and
222.
feed
the
feed
for the
mechanical
and
of
work, pressure enables is in
foot
material,
to
the
with
length of
to
stitch.
repetitionof
the the
and
(1).
constructed is
a
of
feature
by Figs.221
288
under-feed consists of a device under being continuouslydelivered from above foot before commencing to sew. presser operator
it,using it
motions
motion
in machines
pp. 287
on
the
work,
work.
be found
can
required,followingthe The
is
motion
"
foot
of
an
foot, controlled
serrated
a
for
ready
illustrated
by lowering
of
as
to
the
turn
to
centre
a
contour
of the
while
sharply
the when
turn
part being stitched. this
of
under-feed
the
work
type
are
as
enters
or
: "
feed
(1) The presses
(2)
to the
up
desired
the
rises,and
its serrated
amount, teeth
surface
side of the material
under
feed,together with
The
(3) The with
the
to settle the
four-motion
The
afore
operator
top-feedor
a
binding,patching, repairing, etc.,and
the
follows
of
pressure
pressure
of
foot returns
style of
for flat
needle
the
several
consist
motions
foot lifted from
The
(4) The
This
motion
were.
amount
This
of
means
movement
determined
the
This
upon
either
be
may
(1) Applicationunder
(3)
stitch.
are
fop-feed the
four
The
spring.
clamp
perfect regularity,
amount
There
feed
four-motion
under-feed. appliedfrom a
the
of
of the
time.
to
in
SHOES.
performing this.
of
ways
time
AND
dependent
not
determination
from
work
BOOTS
amounts
determining the length
thus
by
OF
MANUFACTURE
the work,
being stitched. forward
moves
thus
deciding the lengthof
the
feed
of
material, which
is
is held
lowered in
out
the of
position by
the stitch.
contact
the
top
pressure.
(4)
The
feed
Passing by
returns
the
ready
to
"drop-feed"
motion
perform and
"
(1).
draw-feed,"
the
MANUFACTURE
THE
272
case weavers
OF
AND
BOOTS
to chafe not so as perfectlysmooth or boat-shaped shuttle, familiar
chieflyused
for
a
thread.
the to
known
type of motion
SHOES.
reciprocating.
as
is illustrated
lever
race
the
the
^0
with
a
limited
Its
needle.
paid
thread
out
that
objection is
varies
as
For
a
to
reversing
good
appearance
50
222
be
centre cent,
amount
1^ inches. thread
the
on
of
end
or
the
when
strain
more
the
taken
and
about
strain
one
ends.
form
speed is
stitch,where of
shuttle
not
every
answers
a
vital
ment. require-
reciprocatingboat-shaped shuttles usually provided with independent take-ups,owing with
not
small
amount
of
"
slack
Fig. 202. pass
per
is
through
The
other.
or
the
from
beginning only adapted
paid out
is
would
the
at
and
passage
see-saw
in any
tension
nearly
the
Machines
to the
slack
the
from
consideration, this
are
than
it is delivered
spool,amounting delivered
as
the
Owing
deposited with
be
to
thread
Less
of shuttle
this form
round of
of the
eye
by
fro in
type of shuttle
This
stitching thread
the
and
to
of motion
form
a
speed.
of friction caused
minimum the
of
range
the
allows
that
it is
complete motion,
with
plane.
same
conclusion of each
by Fig. 201,
travels
and
201
folk, is
most
reciprocatingshuttle
The
pi
The
through. have
The
this form
"
for the
needed
shuttle
to
Fig. 203. machines of shuttle.
illustrated
in
Figs.221
and
UPPER
FITTING
oscillatingshuttle
The shuttle
contains
OR
is shown
273
202.
This
by Fig.
the
is freer from
a
to-and-fro
a
in
one,
illustrated
machines
restricted
a
arc
and
by Figs.213
tively rela-
bobbin, that
disc-shapedspool or
a
CLOSING.
of thread, and large amount angular strain when deliveringthe thread. contains
is
MACHINING
AND
of 219
The
motion The
circle.
a
this
have
type
of shuttle.
rotary hook
The
is
extensively used for sewingby Figs.203 and 204, the latter
now
is illustrated
machines, and
Fig. 204. also
twisted
loop,and, owing have
215 The
spool or opened
by Fig.
bobbin and
the
the
to
position.
size of the illustrated
It
throws
a
hook, takes
a
by Figs. 205
type of shuttle.
rotary shuttle
illustrated
shown
this
in
case
Machines
of slack.
large amount and
bobbin
the
showing
is
206.
case case
a
form
The
much
in
The
bobbin
but
use,
(Fig. 207) Fig. 208 shows
block
closed,while removed.
not
shows the
is the
same
is also
case
by Fig. 209. T
274
THE
MANUFACTURE
\
\
OF
BOOTS
AND
SHOES.
UPPER
TENSION
THREAD
FITTING
AND
MACHINING
DISC-"
CONTROLLER
"
Fig. 206.
fig. 207.
OR
CLOSING.
275
276
THE
OF
MANUFACTURE
Fig.
BOOTS
208.
Fig. 209.
Fig. 210.
AND
SHOES.
UPPER
AND
FITTING
MACHINING
OR
CLOSING.
277
Fig. 211. Tensions. threads
may
"
The
tensions
be either upper
or or
placed
tautness
under.
The
upper
upon tension
the is
THE
278
MANUFACTURE
the
arranged by tension
as
A
210.
the
shuttle,actuated
perfectly uniform the
material
tension
is
kept
tension
lock
stitched.
In
be
The
vibratory.
the
feed, and
it
foot
a
be
place
the or
spring pressure
can
top
Where
"
the
of the
eye
of the
is to
by
the
shuttle,or the hook
has
passed through
it should
take-up,and, be
before
to its
through
out
of the
dip
required. Its passed round
the
passant, it is
en
always brought stitch,or
to
it has
upon
removed,
amount
is
may
tion examina-
an
paid
loop
is the
after
work
is shown
the
commencing the
greater than
the
of
bulk
the
independent take-up
pull
under
the
keeps
up
Fig. 212, that
is
needle-bar, an
function the
needle
of
variety,or
of slack
amount
centre
tension.
readily understood
the
is
wheel
the face plate Fig. 211, where exposing the spring,etc.
Take-ups.
threads
in the
machines
of thus
two
Fig.
in
A,
screw,
possible,the
as
either
be
may
regulatedby
is
the
high-speed
adjustment being performed with Pressers
of
known
discs
two
small
a
take
may
constant
as
by
SHOES.
AND
passing between (B, Fig. 212). The lower
essential,so that the
BOOTS
thread
discs
spring in
a
OF
in
loop. D,
noted
be
to
highest point before work
the
removing
from
machine.
Check-springs. These
are
"
They stiff or
lightthe
troublesome
Direction
in
It
should
the
This
"
and
the
be
can
operator
in
(Fig. 215).
right
the and
is
hands
The
of
Thomas'
a
No.
machines
revolve
(Fig. 206) (Fig.219).
Jones'
in
user
8
ence refer-
improved
(Fig. 213), Singer's Right-hand
Cylinder,Singer's Buttonhole
(Fig.221)
too
comment.
should
wheel
Bradbury's the
by
further
no
Cylinder
towards
Wilson's
needs
balance
Singer Left-hand revolve
readily understood
thus
The
"
(Fig. 205), Singer's I.M.
as
trollers. con-
and if they are safety-valves, the thread and if too weak slip,
212, and
of Motion.
from
and
stitches
up.
Figs.206
to
as
thread
termed
work.
to
Threading
away
act
sometimes
(Fig. 218), and
wheel clock
leather
should in
turn
Thomas'
machine
Wheeler from circular
(Fig. 222).
and left to head
28o
MANUFACTURE
THE
OF
friction
tension,materials,and and
thread, other
The
shuttle reciprocating
while
the
The from
200
driven
at
a
Some
350.
to
for leather
speed much
very
of the
other
from
kinks
knots.
or
the
of
not must
are
reverse
twisted
for
the
and
rightly twisted
for
such
and
Thomas.
There
carefully selected thrown
Their
Silk
:
Threads
has
B., Howe,
Jones
as
one
machines,
Wilson
and
thread.
on
entering.
machines
twist
improper
an
hook
Singer
follows
as
up
be
looselyor
generally three
are
used, viz. silk, cotton, and
brieflysummed
or
too
too
loops being
side,thus preventingthe shuttle
long fibres,free
of
be
machine,
stitches,the
missed
stitching
for upper
composed
"twist"
be
may
speed.
Threads
"
should
kind
particular
causing
be
It
The
tightly twisted. for
should
purposes
of
to be
said
be
may
specialmachines
greater rate
Threads, Silks,Cottons, etc. and
work
200,
to
up
per minute.
300
to
up
speed.
the
higher
be driven
may
be driven
finer the needle
The
points.
machine
SHOES.
AND
things being equal,the
oscillating may
average
BOOTS
closing agents merits
be
may
is elasticity,
much
of
is soft,and lends itself easily to the good appearance, tensile The threadways. passing through the various be about 5 Ibs. for black breaking strain for No. 16 would
dyed, for
for white
whereas
yellow
natural
or
no
is
stretch.
work,
to
much
Thread
closing. It
account
similar
is is
as
the
most
practically
agent with of and
selection
resistingabrasive It
strength. of
"
finish
soft
"
a
does
some is trouble-
silk,and
has
the
medium
friction
of the
three
under
bobbin
thread, with
silk
hardness, it takes
size in silk.
The
used
material
troublesome
strong, and
of its
stands
Silk
Ibs.
difficulty.
the
a
Ibs.,while
6
agents.
as
appearance
although
to abrasive
largelyused
nice
a
cheapness
about
7J
highest power
for
this
removes
power
the
It has
present such
not
three
hard, smooth, surfaced
It is used
friction.
On
a
be
it is about
colour
friction of either
least abrasive
Cotton
it would
a
of
amount
It is
notice. as
a
top
will show
one.
than
largerneedle
following table
for
"
a
UPPER
FITTING
Size of needle.
20-24
...
1
1"
matured
The
quantity
...
leathers, ^ with of
silk
for
make
be resorted The
works
of
machine
a
that
Points
is free from
freely,but close to the
as
thread
be
passage
over
paid
needle
the
shuttle
material) and
passed
when
flat-bedtype
every
kind
and
there
Various
through.
is shown
in
Fig. 213.
for
trimming closing. Two the
For
same
the or
seam more
number
of slack
the
of
for
needle
has
after the needle friction
the
points to
size of the bobbin.
; the
a
of stitch
attachments
very that
machines
or
large variety.
perform almost
stitches
that
can
affixed, such
are
as
large quantity of work to instance, the High Speed Singer
enable
To at
a
be attached
this
can
the
same
needle-bars of
rows
of
of the
varieties
and
214A
a
trimmer
operation as that of be provided, percan forming the number as stitching
the
provided. By causing dozen two needle-bar,some
produced. Figs.214
feed- wheel
the amount
of needles
be
the
take-up (which must
; the
comprise
are
the shuttle
rigid,and
eye
position;
combination
trimmers, guides that put
its
that
"
is
the thread
up
These
"
In the
desired.
hook
threadingup
Special Machines.
the
are
that
oot presser-f
possible;
as
or
independent,pulling
left the
the
through
out
; that
the
when
attention
consideration
cramped
should
the needle.
play laterally ;
too
not
by
require
under
is
(if used) is positive; that
be
by
seam
off"
"hammering
to, to close the holes made
the needle-bar
be
of
yard
yard by chain-stitch,
each
solid seam,
good
a
Mechanical
selection
be
each
For
be
can
seam
4J yards.
To
be
of
given length
a
used.
be
silk may
22
say
"
set
of 0 size with
needle
glace,a
approximately calculated thus about 2 J yards ; for lock-stitch, about
...
...
as
60
used, while for calf kid and similar substances
be
and
70
30
20
light materials, such silk may
22
...
...
12-14
...
80
40 ...
16-18
...
2
For
"
...
...
18-20
...
Thread.
Cotton.
Size of silk.
\
281
CLOSING.
OR
MACHINING
AND
show
horizontal
movement
of stitches
the head
and
may under
282
THE
MANUFACTURE
OF
Fig. 213.
Fig. 2U.
BOOTS
AND
SHOES.
FITTING
UPPER
MACHINING
AND
Fig.
of
a
Singer
No.
varieties
of ornamental
machine
which
can
32
also
215.
machine, which
stitches. be
283
CLOSING.
2UA
Fig. view
OR
Fig. 215 arranged for
makes shows various
some
a
33
Wheeler purposes.
284
Trimmers,
more
or
one
Figs. 215A,
sketch
of
rows,
two
rows,
BOOTS
etc.,are
SHOES.
AND
the
among
ments. arrange-
Fig. 2I5D.
Fig. 2150.
Fig. 215B.
Fig. 215A.
In
OF
MANUFACTURE
THE
and
215B, 215C,
215D,
and
over-seam
shown
are
variety
stitch
spectively. These machines
a
be
holes worked
crewel
or
work
produced upon
machines,
Fancy
machine.
Wilson
patterns also
seven
some
upon
(Fig.
the latter illustration
216), and shows
of
arranged
lace- holes
working
for
re-
classes
also be
can
a
Wilson
by Fig.
shown
as
caii
217. Button-holes
Fig. 216. is the
best
Singer
for
driven
Cylinder
either
speed, or upon by foot-power.
machines
are
a
useful
upon
can a
be worked
Reece, which
Singer. Fig. 218 for
shows
a
goloshingand stitching
Fig. 217.
Fig. 218.
286
THE
MANUFACTURE
work
put together without
shows
a
sketch
Pillar
a
Singer
R.H.
219
machine.
are
also
closingreferred One vertical hook of the high-speed, the Fig. 220, and Fig. 2 20 A shows of
method
SHOES.
AND
previous pasting. Fig.
post machines
or
adopting the in
of
BOOTS
OF
when
very
useful
to
p. 260.
on
is shown
machines hook
and
spool and
Fig. 219.
vertical The
shaft Thomas
constructed to work
that
in
that any
imparts
head
circular the
elastics, putting
mover
in
Fig.221.
on
motion or
"
"
direction
in
the
or
to the
universal
hook. machine
presser-footcan
required.
It is useful
toe-cap patches,etc.,and
is
so
be made for
pulling
is shown
288
THE
The make
MANUFACTURE
reciprocating is
shown
in
BOOTS
OF
Fig.
shuttle
leather
222.
Fig.
222.
OF
UNIVERSITY
THE
SHOES.
AND
machine
of
the
same
INDEX
digiti,25
minimi
ABDUCTOR
Bones, composition of, 6
25 pollicis, Adductor 27 pollicis,
cuboid,
,
cuneiform, 9
,
in childhood, 5
Adhesives, 253 Adult
foot,37
Alden's
"
metatarsal, 9
="
,
of foot,7
scale, 69, 74, 75
of
leg, 6 propertiesof, 4 scaphoid, 9
Alligator,231 Allowances
for
lastingover,
124 ,
lasting,169
"
,
to be
made,
when
,
,
55
form, how
observations,
Anatomy ,
various ,
3
of heel-measure, 52
Angle
Bony
foot, 56
lasts,108 taking impressions,58
for
Breech
pattern,
Button
boots,159,
Ankle, weak,
Calf -
kid,
226
skins, 225
Camper's sole-shapes,86 theory, 38 Cartilage,5
of foot, 13
Arteries,
28
Astragalus, 8
Casts, plaster,48 Characteristics
BAGGING
machines,
Ball-measure, 62 wood,
11
patent, 228
transverse, 13
Arches
ligament,
girth,59
Arch, longitudinal,13
102
Bespoke cutting,225 patterns, 170 Block
224
Button-piece headers, 253 CALCANEO-SCAPHOID
11
Ankle-joint,10 Ankle-measure, 59 Anticus 17 tibialis,
Beech
101
skin, 205
Animal
,
surement, mea-
of, 4
uses ,
3
Box
divisions, 2, 3
position of
3
Boot
32
shoemakers',
74
62
determined,
of foot, 2
determine
to
of measurements,
system of measuring, Anatomical
tarsal, 7
61
measuring, scale
American
9
lasts,108
257
of
feet
at
different
periods,36 Charme
wood,
102
Check-spring, 278 Chopping, 105 Clasp bone, C 'lassed
6
standard
07
measures, U
INDEX.
290
Feet, full,47
of feet, 44
Classification
Classifying lasts,108 Clicking, 204 principles,217 Comb
slim,
,
of animal
usually
skin, 205
6
Fibula,
6
Fitting up lasts, 116 without
Costing, 234 Cote grading machine, Cottons,280 Cuboid bone, 9
98
Flat
foot, 11-14
Fleshy foot, 56 Flexor
bones, 9
accessorius, 27 brevis
21 pollicis,
"
Derbies, 165
with
Foot, arches
sides,178 when measuring without weight of
elastic
and
impressions,58
I ody,
adult, 37
the
Divisions
of
Dorsal
2,
determined,
of stitch, 26 1
Formation
156
40
taken, 59
anatomical, how
Form,
81
Drafting standards,
to be
Foot-measures
3
interossei,28
Draft, 56,
walking,
when
Footfalls
qualities,222
of anatomy,
the. 50, 53
measuring
,
Disposing
of, 7
,
foot
56 of motion, 278
of, 13
bones
,
Direction
digiti,27
25 pollicis, longus digitorum, 21
62
Diiferences
digitorum, 27 minimi
waists, 108
Designing
pasting,260
Fittings,68, 117
Cutting patterns,119 DEAD
"vith,46
met
variety,34
,
Femur,
of foot, 2
Deductions,
46
types of, 42
,
Comparative system, 181 Composition of bone, 6 Constructing sole-shapes,86 principles,91 upon
Cuneiform
difference, 47
national ,
lasts,108
Construction
long, 47
,
Forme,
120,
French
measurements,
129
79
Drop waists, 108 Dutch
measurements,
Duties
of measurer,
79 55
raising heel,
EFFECT
of
sides, 164
84
Girth
measurements,
Glove
pedistat,64 brevis
Goat
digitorum,
longus digitorum, 17 17 proprius pollicis,
24
skins, 229
Goloshes,
151
Grading,
179
machines,
Feeds, Feet
at ,
and
98 94 fittings,
systems,
Fascia, plantar, 1 3
61
61
hide, 230
sizes
FACINGS, 164
80
kid, 229
English sizes,54 Extensor
decreases, increases,
"
Elevations, 66 Ellis's
system, 186
Geometric German
Elastic
19
GASTRO-CNEMIUS,
96
Grain, 230
269
different
average,
47
periods,36
HANNIBAL'S
Heart-wood,
sole-shape,88 103
3
INDEX.
Heel
angle, 52 elevating,84 girth,59 Heel-girth locator, 64 Heel-measure,
291
Lasts, slipper,111 where wood ,
bones
Leg,
59
Length allowances, 61 Ligaments, 11
Historic, 1 Hooks, 271
calcaneo-scaphoid,11
,
hides, 228
interosseus, 11
,
bone
How
is nourished, 5
plantar,11
,
to
of, 6
position,126 Leg-measure, 59
79
Hides, 205
Horse
used, 102
muscles, 16
in foot, 52
Heel-measures,
spring
Huckle-bone,
151
vamps,
Line
of contact, 82
8
of muscular Lines
IMPRESSION-BOX,
action, 24
of stretch, 220
58
of
tightness,220
Impression-paper,58 Impressions of foot, 58 Improved scale, 76
Lining patterns,
Inclination, 128
Long heel-measure,
tape, 62
Interosseus
Longitudinal arch, 13 Longus digitorum, extensor,
ligament,
11
Lower
79
measurements,
limbs,
Lumbricales,
JOINT, ankle, 10
Machinery, 232 for making Markers, 164
in foot, 11
231
Measure
to be
of construction
of
sections, 101
foot,2
the
61
French,
,
German,
105 ,
115 ,
-,
,
,
sectional, 109
,
shoe,
on,
80
foot, 53
positionsof, 3 scale
of, 68
Measurer, the, 116
observations
111
79
Irish,79 of the
boot, 110
comb, 108 fittingup,
sheets, 67
,
allowances, 125
Last-making machinery, Last-measuring machine, Lasts, block, 108
,
foot, 59
foot, 50
Measurements, Dutch,
Lasting allowances, 169
,
of
operation,59 Measurement
,
taken
Measuring allowances, 105
Knowledge
over
lasts,105
May's sole-shapes,88
231
LAST
27
Cote, 98 grading, 98
girth-measure, 59
KANGAROO,
17
4
MACHINE,
Joints, 10
Kips, 205 Knifing,
62
work, 193
Instep-bone,9 Instep-measure, 59
Kip,
169
Locater, heel-girth,64
Ink, 249
Irish
113
to measure,
,
55
Measures, tape, 115
Mechanics Medium
55
of foot, 30
68 fitting, Medullary rays, 103
79
INDEX.
292
of bone,
Membrane
buttoned
Men's
laced
interossei,27
ligament, 11,
boots, 260
boots, 259
Plantaris, 19
bones,
Plaster
Metatarsal
9
23
casts, 47
moulds,
constructingsole-shapes,
for
Methods
Plantar
4
48
Potlameter, Scott's, 63
86
Pointed
Meyer's line, 39 sole-shapes,86
toes, 93
Porpoise, 231
theory, 38 Military positionof standing, 39 Mode of walking, 37 of fitting, Modes 254
Positions
Muscles, 15
Principles of clicking,217
in the
to
foot,21,
"
bones,
lasts,113
measure
Preparation
of skin, 206
Pressers, 278
of scale
leg, 16
of the
of measurement
24
of measurements,
of sole-shapes,81
Production
Profile, 129 of muscles,
NAMING
Properties of bone, 4 Proportions in feet, 35
15
68 fitting,
Narrow
in infants, 36
foot, 37 difference
National
of sole, 82
in feet, 47
of sole for various
Needles, 265 Nerves, 28 Ninth
system, 74 QUARTER anatomical, 32
OBSERVATIONS,
proportions
Obtaining
of
soles
sizes,91
various
Operation Os
sizes, 91
extensor, Proprius pollicis,
of
measuring,
Quarter-inch
59
heel,
shoe, 1
Rubbing
of foot, 57, 81
84
Rise, 68 Roman
Osteology, 4
system, 70
for RAISING
calcis,7
Outline
patterns, 169
255
seams,
Running,
30
Russia, 230 PARIS points,55 Pass-May grading, 94 sole-shape,88
Pattern-cutting,119 Pattern-making, 119 Patterns, breech, 101 to
last, 122
a
Pedistat, Ellis's,64
Pencilling round the foot, 57 Peroneus brevis, 19 longus, 18 tertius,18
Phalanges,
10
hide, 230 SANDALS,
1
Sap-wood, Satin
103
hide, 230 shoe,
Saxon
1
Scale, Alden's, 69 ,
,
,
American,
improved,
74 76
quarter-inch,70 with breaks, 72
Scales
of measurements,
Scaphoid-bone, 9
Plan, 56
Scollops,161 Scott's podameter,
Plans,
Seams,
Pitch, 106, 125
Plantar
66
fascia, 13
169
Seam-to-toe,
224
63
68
17
68
3
INDEX.
150 Springing of vamps, Square toes, 93 Standard drafting,156
Seat, 82 Sectional
lasts,109
Sections
of lasts, 101 262
Sewing machines, Sewrounds,
Sheep
129
pattern,
201
28
measurements,
entering
for
67
measures,
skins, 229
Sheets
107
Spring,
104
Seasoning woods,
293
67
Standing, four-squareposition,39 military position,39 ,
,
Stanley last-measuring machine,
185
Shifting systems,
Stitches, 263
6
Shin-bone,
Straight lasts,32
butts, 230
Shoe
lasts,
Stretch, 220
111
of bones, 4
Study
225
anatomy,
Shoemakers'
of wood, 103
Structure
standards, 140 vamps,
115
3
of cutting, 209
Systems
grading,
of
Shoes, 179
96
Shuttles, 271 Side lace, 163
TAKE-DPS,
Silks, 280
Taking fittings" grading, 94
and
Sizes
Tape Tarsal
Skin, 28
Tendon construction
,
selection of, 206
55
bones, 7 Achilles, 19 277
Tensions,
Theory, Camper's, Meyer's, 38
,
205
Skins,
of, 205
draft, 57
a
measures,
Size-stick, 54 anatomical
279
38
,
Skiving, 244 247
machines,
Tibia, 6
foot, 37
Slim
area,
anticus, 17
Tibialis
Slipper lasts,111 Sole
280
Threads,
posticus,20 Tightness, 220
81
82 proportions,
arch, 13
Transverse
Sole-impressions,58
Transversus
Sole-shapes,81
Tread, 82
,
Camper's,86
Treatment
of
constructing, 86
Turning
in, 249
Hannibal's, 88
Types
,
,
,
,
Meyer's, 86 Pass-May, 88 upon
,
various
soles, 51
of feet, various
169
UNDERLAYS,
sizes,91 types, 51
edges, 256
of feet, 42
91 principles,
,
Soles
pedis,27
Upper fitting,243 of bones, 4
Uses
Soleus, 20 Sorting lasts
in
pairs,104
Soule's
system,
120
Special machines, Splits,231
Spokes, 103
144
VAMPS,
232 qualities,
,
281
springing,150
Variety
in feet, 35 scales
Various use,
70
of
measurement
in
INDEX.
294
"
Width
82
WAIST,
buttoned
Women's
62
measure,
"
proportionsof sole, 81 boots, 258
laced,257
Waists, dead, 108
Woods,
drop, 108 Walking, 28
beech, 192
,
the ,
Wax
Way Weak
,
footfalls,40
,
calf skins, 225 of
tight,222
ankle,
BY
WILLIAM
CLOWES
AND
102
heart, 103
,
sap, 103
,
structure, used
11
THE
PRINTED
charme,
103
for lasts, 102
END.
SONS,
LIMITED,
LONDON
AND
BECCLES.
"$l5bkl^jl^
to H.M.
Contractors
^S^^ffi^^T
Contractors
?"S^S^^^^\
Government.
to
By Special Appointment
H.M.
to India
H.M.
Government.
Queen Alexandra, July 20, 1901.
WHEELER " WILSON HIGH-SPEED
LABOUR-SAVING
\MVCH\NES Are
in
used
the
the
throughout
for
MACHINES
and
Largest
all
Factories
Best
World.
Requirements-
BACK-STRAPPING
BOOT-CLOSING
SPACE-STITCHING
VAMPING
EYELETTING
STAYING
OVER-SEAMING
FOXING
BEADING
CORDING
WELTING
BINDING AND
MILITARY
CHIEF
OFFICES:
NAVAL
WORK
GORING
"
11-21, PAUL
STREET,
FINSBURY,
LONDON.
"
WHEELER
MACHINES
SEWING constructed
Are
whereby Wear
of
Highest Output
and
Tear.
Constructed
for
High Speed,
Hook
allows
of
Friction
throw
smaller
a
other the
on
"
a
dip
or
Machines,
Machine, the
friction to
with
and
"
point.
lowest
high point, which
very
needle
of the
the
minimum
the
with
Hook
reduces
is constructed
with
common
is secured
Vertical
principles,
mechanical
approved
most
the
New
The
the
upon
The
WILSON
results
Sewing Fabric, Higher
are
than
bar
is
Diminished
"
Speed,
and
better
Stitching.
The For
Twin-Needle
sewing with
Special Hook
enables
the
fear
Bound
or
New
(capacity,3800 This
width
the
Presser
two
Fitted
time.
a
irregularlines,or
between
Edge
Work,
Foot, which out with-
curves,
stitching
of
rows
61
perfectstitches demands
the
Trimmer
automaticallytakes
stitchingaround
No.
machine
Manufacturer.
devised
new
follow
to
Under
liningwhilst
The
a
at
rows
variation.
any
The Beaded
the
Goloshes, two
and
operator
of
showing
For
and
Vamps
on
Machine
Vamping
the
is
edge
minute)
attention
is used
of
surplus
being accomplished.
Lockstitch per
off the
every
Machine for boot
Boot
linings.
and
Shoe
XME
BEST
of the Best
PATTERNS
Manufacturers
in Great
Britain
and
America
are
graded
on
the
"HARTFORD" GRADING
PATTERN
GRADES
UPPERS.
GRADES
MACHINE.
SOLES.
to any grade are by this machine graded with absolute accuracy the time required by hand, direct on standard, in one-twentieth No cuttingin paper necessary. zinc,iron,or cardboard.
Patterns
from to
one
Over
5OO
We
also
in
Machines
use.
supply the following
ACCESSORIES. SHEARS PATTERN (5 kinds). BINDING MACHINES. PATTERN CORNER CUTTERS.
PUNCHING MACHINE. PATTERN EYELETTING MACHINE. PATTERN REFORMER. BINDING FILES
VICES. AND PRESSES. CRAMPS BINDING TABLES. FILING PAPER. PATTERN BOARD. PATTERN BINDING. BRASS
CUTTING
BERNARD
PLIERS.
RULES.
STEEL
DIVIDERS. PROPORTIONAL TOOL. GRADING LEWIS'S GRADERS. SCALLOP PATTERN MARKERS.
LIVINGSTON Nat.
Tel.
422.
SIZE
AND
RASPS.
STICKS.
KNIFE HANDLES. AMERICAN KNIFE AMERICAN BLADES. HAND GRADERS. AWLS. CLICKERS' CRAYONS. MARKING BOARDS. CUTTING BOARD DRESSINGS. CUTTING
OIL
CUTTING STONES. HAND
"
BOARD
SCRAPERS.
SNIPS, etc., etc.
DOUGHTY,
E. PENTON 1 to
11,Mortimer Street,London,W.
OF
The
SON,
"
Largest
EVERY
and
Best
DESCRIPTION.
Assortment
West-end
by
in
the
Trade,
as
used
Workmen.
OF
THE
PATENT As
SIZE in
used
Bespoke
the
Technical
STICK,
Schools.
Register
Book,
FOR
BESPOKE
OF THE
LASTS
As
MANY
MAKERS.
used
by
THOUSANDS
VERY High-Class OP
SOLE
PAIRS
FINEST Boot
STOCK.
.
AND
OXFORD
CAMBRIDGE
FACTORS
WHOLESALE
OF FOR
BOOT
IN
OF
.
THE
Makers.
ALWAYS
MAKERS
MODELS,
AND
EVERY
CREAM.
REQUISITE
THE
SMOE
TRADES.
SUGDEN " LOVATT,MOBBS" Silk Manufacturers,
Ltd, LEWIS,
KETTERING.
Mills, LEEK,Staffordshire,
Acorn
"
Telegrams:
LOVATT,
LEEK."
SILKS
and
CLOSING SEWING
of
for Hand
REEL
SILKS 50
Description,
every
Use.
and
TWISTS,
yds., 120 yds,, 200
TAILORS'
TWISTS,
Machine
or
26.
EMBROIDERY
and
SILKS
Tel.
Nat.
yds., etc.
DRESSMAKERS'
and
SILKS
TWISTS.
and
of the
Makers "
HATTERS',
GLOVERS', SADDLERS',
HOSIERY in
"
BRITISH
and
MACHINE
TREEING
SILKS
all varieties. AND
BUTTON-HOLING for
Reece,
R
Singer,
W.
F.
W.
R.
T.
J.
LAWRENCE.
and
other
LASTS
EASY-EXIT
SILKS
and
Wood
in
Machines.
WARMINGTON
"
COPLEY.
BRISTOL
LEICESTER,
Tanners, Curriers,Dyers, Dressers for Offices
Head
and
34
the
86, BETHNAL
GREEN
J.
Professor
on-Tyne
; Member
Coast
950
.
of the
North-East
12s.6d,
net.
with
Pages,
It deals Two
Second of
The
in
Parts Part
an
in
new
Volume"
treating of Theory
very great use Illustrations
pains
entirely One
to
to are
collect
both
manner
the
and
Science
Postage
and
of
inland;
the
Part
Illustrative
and
6d.
Page,
with First
Art
Institute extra
Illustrations
900
Company's
Goldsmiths'
of
Size of of
ENGINEERING
M.INST.C.E., M.I.MECH.E.,
LINEHAM, the
E.
LONDON,
ROAD,
OF MECHANICAL
Engineering Department at of Engineering at the School Price
Attention.
:
WILFRID
BY of
Leather
Careful
receive
Inquiries
Warehouses
"
of
Shoemaking Purposes.
A TEXT-BOOK Head
CO
DEPTFORD,
COLCHESTER,
LONDON,
WARMINGTON.
Iron.
8
in.
work
Engineers
and x
16
Institute, New
from
and
folding Plates.
5 in.
of the
describing Examples.
Mechanical
Practical On
Engineer,
Processes
all hands
the
and work
MESSRS.
and
Tools has
consists ; and
been
the found
confidently expected. Engineering Student and the Designer, as was at considerable has been drawings in plan and elevation, which the Author shaded the principal Engineering Firms" perspectives being entirely
excluded.
11, HENRIETTA
; late
Is. 2d!. abroad.
the
scale
Cross
College, NewcastleShipbuilders.
Technical
CHAPMAN
STREET,
"
HALL,
COVEXT
LTD., PUBLISHERS, LONDON, W.C. GARDEN,
J, E, PEARSE " Co 88
to
Overstone
92,
Road,
NORTHAMPTON.
EXPERTS IN
WAX
MACHINE
"
For
GRINDERY.
all
kinds
SOLE=SEWING
of
MACHINERY.
"
MADE
INCLUDING
WHITE,
ONLY
THE
IN
WHITE
which
does
VARIOUS
COLOURS,
GOLD,
BLACK,
AND
GOLD
not
Dust
fly to
on
FAWN.
the
Machine.
GRINDERY
MACHINE OF
BROWN,
ACCURACY
UTMOST
THE
SUPPLIED
TO
FIT
ALL
KINDS
OTHER
BEST
QUALITY
CORRESPONDENCE
OF
HEELING
AND
MACHINES.
ONI-Y
INVITED.
"
W.
H.
MIERS, Limited,
LIEIEXDS, the
Are
CALF,
EMBO
A
Black
Glace
Chrome
Calf;
and
Finish;
and
CALF,
TANBO A
THE
of
Manufacturers
SOLE
ORIGINAL
Calf, Smooth
Chrome
Brown
ENGLISH
MANUFACTURERS
OF
GENUINE
"
BOX
CALF;
WILLOW ALSO
RUSSIA
In
fact,
EVERYTHING
CALF;
OOZE
"
IN
CALF
for
BOOTS
and
SHOES.
EDITION
NEW
OF
DICKENS'S THE
I
will
Dickene's
in
EDITION.
BIOGRAPHICAL In
Edition
rTlHIS
WORKS.
Vols.,Large Crown
18
contain
life.
Biographical
The
Svo, Price
Introductions
Introductions
will
be
not
3s. 6d. each.
in each
book,
technical
giving its history and bibliographical, but
or
place aim
at
The Illustrations brevity and the narrative note, telling a story rather than arraying documents. the original editions, new blocks are specially reproduced for this edition from having been made for the purpose. The The Cover, with a full gold back, is from a design by W. B. MACDOUGALL. Volumes will be issued at the rate of Two in Chronological Order. FULL PROSPECTUS a Month ON APPLICATION. The First will be :Eight Volumes 1.
SKETCHES
2.
THE
BY
PICKWICK
With
4.
NICHOLAS
5.
THE
6.
BARNABY
7.
AMERICAN
PICTURES
With
With
CHUZZLEWIT.
Cloth, 2s.
of the
"
ON
PHIZ.
HISTORY
OF
[Dec.
15.
[Dec.
15
Works.
INDIA
net
per
Vol.
OF
PAPER,
OF CARLYLE. who
HALL,
WORKS
CHILD'S
Leather, 2s. 6d.
THOMAS CHAPMAN MESSRS. Editions
PHIZ.
and
PHIZ.
by
EDITION,
and
[Nov. 17. [Nov. 17.
"c.
Carlyle's
WORKS
THE
A
and
In
EDINBURGH
THE
[Oct. 15. CATTERMOLK
CATTESSIOLE
STONE,
Vol.
net per
[Sept. 15. [Oct. 15.
GEORGE
by
ITALY;
of
PHIZ.
PHIZ.
GEORGE
Illustrations
40
[Sept. 15.
and
CRUIKSUANK.
by
MABCUS
Edition
New
by
FROM
by
Illustrations
16
SEYMOUR
Illustrations
75
78 Illustrations
With
NOTES;
A
With
CRUIKSHANK.
by
GEORGE
by
Illustrations
40
SHOP.
RUDGE.
MARTIN
In
With
GKOKGE
by
Illustrations
43
Illustrations
24
CURIOSITY
ENGLAND. 8.
With
NICKLEBY.
OLD
Illustrations
40
PAPERS.
TWIST.
3. OLIVER
With
BOZ.
alone
THOMAS
OF
the right to publish Complete possess have much pleasure in announcing
CARLTLE,
Copyright the
Issue
specially-made quality of Indian Paper, so delicate that, of THE FRENCH TION, REVOLUadmirably clear type, the whole of about half an inch in consisting of nearly 800 pages, will be comprised in a single volume The believe combined with thickness. Publishers and that, for general convenience, elegance will rival. The be found to stand a taste, this Copyright Edition entirely without following will Portrait: be the First Volumes issued, each a containing Frontispiece Edition and Delicate of a Handy upon will be printed in an while the Edition
a
"
THE
ONE
Ix
ONE
ON
OF
SCHILLER,
AND
CARLYLE
:
a
LIFE
ESSAYS;
ILLUSTRATED
OF
Volumes
Account
OF
JOHN
EARLY
IN
STERLING.
KINGS
OF
NORWAY;
KNOX.
JOHN
to be announced.
BOOKLETS. Brief
HEROIC
THE
VOLUMES.
PORTRAIT Other
AND
PRESENT.
VOLUME. THE
THREE
MISCELLANEOUS THE
THOMAS
ONE
HISTORY.
WORSHIP, AND
and IN
CRITICAL
HERO PAST
IN LIFE
A
:
READY.
VOLUME.
HEROES,
HISTORY; THE
READY.
VOLUME. REVOLUTION
FRENCH
RESARTUS;
SARTOR
IN
Post his
of
Life
and
Free, 2d. Writings.
each. With
upwards
of 40
Portraits, Illustrations, "c. CHARLES
DICKENS
:
Some
Notes
on
his
Life
and
Writings.
With
upwards
of .40
Portraits, Illustrations,"c. SAMUEL
RICHARDSON
CHAPMAN
and
the
"
Influence
HALL,
of
his
Novels.
LIMITED,
With
Portrait
LONDON.
and
Illustrations.
'LEAF
LASTS,
WOOD
FILLERS.
"
TREES, LASTS
IRON-PLATED
For
Hand-Sewn,
fOP
LaStS
I J
BRAND
Machine-Sewn and
Sew-Round,
FINISHING
Welted
and Turn-Shoe
Work.
LASTS.
Speciality"" Hinged A Made
Large to
Model
any
of Models
Number
sent
Correct "HINGED"
PATENT
Woik.
with
"
Lasts.
Select
to
from.
Order.
Copy
Guaranteed.
TREE.
TREES.
BOOT
POLISHED
"
Patent Specialities"
Selling Trees
Best
"
Trees.
"Easyslip" Trees.
Patent The
Hinged
Market.
in the
l-.B.S, (Light
But
Strong.)
HOLLOWED Of "
PATENT
"Leaf
"
EASYSLIP
Brand
"
Lasts
both
Sole
Importer,
10,
have
Feather
been
New
for
adopted by
in the United
O.
Weight
facturers
TREE.
FILLERS.
Kingdom
use
the and
and
indispensableto
in Travellers'
Leading
Manu-
Samples.
Manufacturers
Colonies.
WENDT, Union
Street,
E.G.
London, x
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