Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

TBILISI August - October 2013

The cradle of winemaking Georgian wine guide

Batumi

A weekend out of Tbilisi in the best Georgia seaside area

N°2 www.inyourpocket.com

Contents Nightlife

3 31

Nice selection of bars, pubs & clubs

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving & Transport

5 Getting to town, taxi, car rental & public transport

The Basics

8

All you’d better know while in Georgia

Sightseeing Essential Tbilisi Check out the highlights

35

Churches 37 Most important and famous Museums 38 Highly recommend to stop-by Parks & Gardens Tranquil strolls & fresh air

40

A cradle of winemaking

Leisure

41

Georgia Wine Guide

11

Culture & Events 14

A list of activities in Tbilisi

Art galleries, culture centres and theatres

Around Tbilisi

History

16

Essential destinations

18

A weekend on the Black Sea coast

A quick look through the centuries

Where to stay

Batumi

Best places to spend the night

Directory

Restaurants

Shopping Business Health & Lifestyle

23 Georgian restaurants list is on a top. Need a break - choose one of the following

Cafés

29

Grab a book and watch the world go by

Decoding the menu 30 Georgian cuisine in a glance

42 44

46 47 48

Maps & Index Street index Old town map Vake & Saburtalo areas City map

49 50 51 52

Local stalls are the best place to try tasty fruits and vegetables

tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

August - October 2013

4

Arrival & Transport

Foreword Tbilisi is a city of contrasts. A meeting point between eastern and western civilisations for centenaries and is still today. A city built along a riverbank and surrounded by hills, a settlement dating back to the 4th century, but with a sky-scape that includes 21st century architecture. Tbilisi is the capital of Georgia and can be international, cosmopolitan and sophisticated, yet it is essentially and distinctly Georgian that feels friendly and homely no. It can feel as homely as a town rather than as lonely as a city. The architecture marks a march from antiquity through genteel eighteenth century balconied homes to austere soviet structures, right up to the ultra modern. The old is not overly polished. Many cities renovate to the point where buildings and entire districts loose any sense of authenticity. That has happened to a limited extent, especially in the section of the Old Town around the slopes of Narakala Fortress, but thankfully, huge swathes of the city remain unmolested by over-zealous restoration schemes. There are acres of tired, graceful old buildings with cracked walls, decades of layers of paint fading and peeling. Quaint homes with precariously leaning balconies and hard worked ancient wooden doors leading to courtyards with family biographies overflowing from decades of love, loss, deaths and births. Tbilisi is refreshingly human. Big-business logos don’t dominate its street-scene like in many western cities. There is a smattering of international brands but the corporate homogeneity that has ruined the individuality of other capitals. So far this tough old city still has its pride. And all the better for it.

By Bus E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Publisher In Your Pocket Georgia LLC Tabukashvili 15/4 Tbilisi 0108 Georgia tel. (+955) 596 10 72 01 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Printed by LTD Favorite Print Published 10,000 copies 3 times per year

Editorial Editor & Writer Huw Williams Managing Editor Natasha Martisova Research In Your Pocket Georgia team Design Natasha Martisova Photography In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated Cover In Your Pocket

Sales & Circulation Director: Piotr Rząca [email protected] Sales Manager: Eka Tsotsoria (+995) 555 43 80 45, [email protected]

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Georgia LLC 2013. Maps copyright In Your Pocket Georgia LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania). tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Maps

It is a little confusing as there are three long distance stations for buses and marshrutkas (minibuses) in the city, and it’s not always obvious which one you arrive at. Simply ask the driver if you are unsure. Didube Tsereteli Av. Named after the nearby Didube metro station. Quite a large site crammed with many marshrutkas (minibuses) for all westly destinations. Buses from Batumi, Poti, Zugdidi, Kutaisi, Gori, and also Kazbegi (Stepantsminda), and Vladikavkaz in Russia arrive here. Take the metro to get to the city centre. Ortachala Gulia 1. The main bus station for international connections from Armenia, Azerbaijan, Greece, and Turkey. To reach the city centre take bus # 80 or # 71. Samgori Tbilisi-Gachiani-Rustavi. Located 300 metres from Samgori metro station. Marshrutkas from all eastern destinations arrive here, including Lagodekhi, Sighnaghi, Telavi or Rustavi. The metro station is walking distance to the west.

By Plane Tbilisi International airport is about 17,5 kilometres East of Tbilisi centre. The main terminal was built in 2007 and provides good passenger services. There are number of bars, restaurants, travel agencies, ATMs, currency exchanges, VIP and CIP zones. International and domestic (Mestia) flights operate from here. The queues at passport control are usually short and the baggage delivery is often prompt. Getting to town If you rent a car at the airport, the route is well signposted until you enter the city, after that signage is more rare. Follow by signs Rustaveli Av. or Freedom square if you want to reach the centre. If you get lost, ask a taxi driver if

you can pay to follow him to your destination. Taxis are relatively cheap and it will be the quickest and least stressful option. The cheapest way to get to the city centre is to take bus # 37 to Freedom square and Rustaveli Av. and back to the airport. The journey takes about 30 - 40 minutes. The bus stop is just in front of the arrival hall and they run every 20-30 minutes. Only coins are accepted and a single ticket costs 0.50 Lari. You can change notes into coins at the tourist information located in arrival hall. These buses operate from 07:00 until 22:00, which is not very helpful if you flight is one of the many that land during the night. A new train station is located only two minutes walk from the terminal. The journey to the main train station, where you can transfer to the metro system, takes 35 minutes and costs 0.50 Lari, but the timetable is very poor. At the moment there are only two trains during the day, at 08:45 and 18:05. Taxis are just outside the arrival hall and are available 24 hours a day. A taxi ride to the city centre shouldn’t be more than 20 - 25 Lari. Kutaisi International Airport operates Wizz Air low cost flights from Poland and Ukraine, as well as from Moscow Domodedovo and Minsk, Belarus airports. The airport is located about 230 km from Tbilisi. The airport is very basic, just a simple immigration and customs post, no currency exchange or ATM. On exiting, expect to be surrounded by dozens of drivers touting for buses to any destination around Georgia The bus costs approximately 15-20 Lari depending on the driver and it is a four hour journey. Don’t be alarmed if you don’t have any Lari on you, just ask your driver to stop at the currency exchange in Kutaisi. Tbilisi International Airport www.tbilisiairport.com. International Arrivals: (+995) 32 310 341, International Departures: (+995) 32 310 421. Kutaisi International Airport tel. (+995) 431 23 90 03.

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Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Georgia

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August - October 2013

5

arrival & transport

arrival & transport

carriage # and seat/berth

# of passangers

total price

from - to stations passport # / name arrival date and time

As there is no information in English on the train tickets, we hope this picture will help you to decode it

Akhmeteli Theatre

1

Sarajishvili er

original

Buses The buses are yellow and each displays its route number on the front. Many bus stops have an automated sign-board showing which service is due next and how long until it arrives. You need to pay when you board at the machine inside the bus with coins, or touch your plastic pre-loaded Metromani travel card. Each journey anywhere in the city costs 50 tetri. Charge your Metromani card at a Metro station. Metro There are two lines in Tbilisi that intersect only at Station Square. Each journey is 50 tetri. You need to buy a Metromani travel card to use the Metro and these can be bought and re-charged at each station. Station signs are in English and so are the in-train station announcements. It operates from 07:00 until midnight.

ura ) riv

train #

7

Tbilisi Metro Map

Public transport

departure date and time

Mtkvari (K

6

Guramishvili

Ghrmaghele

Tbilisi Sea Didube Gotsiridze

By Train

Buying train tickets

Tbilisi Central Station is located on Vagzlis Meidani. It was opened in 1872, demolished twice over the years and was remodelled in 2010. It serves domestic destinations as well as the trains to and from Yerevan, Armenia and Baku, Azerbaijan. Ticket offices are located on the top floor, above the platforms. At least one of the counters will have English speaking staff, usually the one to the right of the entrance. Timetable are available online at www.railway.ge. Some buses from Yerevan arrive in front of the train station building. Getting to town The best way to get to the centre is to take the metro. The entrance is located only a minute’s walk, to the right of Central Station’s main exit. Tbilisi Central Station G-1, Tbilisi, N2, Station Square, MStation Square, tel. 1331.

The most efficient way to buy train ticket is to go to the Central Train Station. There is usually an English speaking staff member at one of the ticket office windows. You should have valid ID or a passport with you. You can also buy tickets online. Go to railway.ge website, click the map on the right. You can check the connections as well as buy ticket. You need to register and then follow their procedure, pretty much the same as any other online booking system. It only accepts Visa or MasterCard. If you are travelling on an electronic ticket, show the conductor the ticket purchase code and the ID you used during the booking process. Beware: the online booking engine sometimes just doesn’t work. Remember that for popular destinations (Batumi, Kutaisi, Zugdidi) you should buy tickets at least 2 days in advance, especially in high season.

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Car rental For some visitors, driving in Tbilisi can be a daunting experience. On the face of it, Georgians don’t seem the most disciplined motorists. Driving speeds are often fast and lane changes can be erratic. At rush-hour the experience is further intensified by heavy city traffic. The speed limit is 60 km/h in towns and cities. In other areas it’s 80 km/h unless indicated. Highways speed limit is , unless other is indicated on the screens along the road. All road signs and screens are in English. There is a zero tolerance policy towards drink driving and your seat belt must be locked. Avis B-2, Freedom Sq 4, tel. (+995) 32 292 35 94, [email protected], www.avis.ge. Also at Tbilisi International Airport (+995) 32 292 35 94. Cars4rent L-2, Chavchvadze 34, tel. (+995) 32 247 63 99, www.cars4rent.ge. (+995) 577 44 11 59 (24/7). QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Europcar D-3, Samghebro 6, Meidan Sq, tel. (+995) 32 275 44 71, [email protected], www.europcar.com. Hertz C-3, Leselidze (Kote Abkhazi) 44/II, tel. (+995) 32 299 91 00, www.hertz.ge. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Sixt D-3, Samghebro 5, tel. (+995) 32 243 99 11, www. sixt.com.ge.

To advertise with Tbilisi or Batumi guides contact our sales at (+995) 555 43 80 45 Tbilisi In Your Pocket

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Tseretlis gamziri 2

University

Nadzaladevi

Tsereteli Av.

Delisi

Vagzilis moedani - 1 Vagzilis moedani - 2 Station square - 1 Technical University Station square - 2

Sameditsino instituti Vazha-pshavela

Medical Institute

Minibuses Called marshrutkas, they operate on established routes. In the city they are yellow. Find out the number of the one you Rustaveli want to take and flag one down by holding out your hand, palm facing down. You can get them to stop where you want. Each journey is 80 tetri. You can pay with cash or pre-loaded Tavisuplebis moedani Liberty Square Metromani card when you exit. There are also a few marshrutka stations around the city for travel around Georgia. Their destination is displayed on a board in the window, but it will be written in Georgian. Just ask if you are unsure which one is heading your way. In general, Didube services the west and north of Georgia, Samgori the east, Ortachala is for international routes to Turkey, Azerbaijan and Armenia. Agree the price before you leave - check with the locals. Cable Car and Funicular There is a cable car from the Rike Park to Narikala Fortress. There are spectacular views of the city and one of the cars has a glass floor. It costs 1 Lari and you can use your Metromani card. The funicular railway that runs up to Mtatsminda Mountain was opened in 1905 and was recently reconstructed. It costs 2 Lari but does not accept Metromani cards.

Marjanishvili Avlabari

Varketili Isani

300 aragveli

1

Samgori

In Your Pocket Mobile

Taxis Taxis are a cheap and are an easy way to get around the city. Most trips within Tbilisi range from 3 to 6 Lari. Some taxis carry meters with fixed rates, but not all. Agree the price before you get in. Haggle with them, they will probably start with a high price if you are a foreigner. GIG Taxi tel. (+380) 32 278 78 78. Tariffs: 1 km - 40-50 tetri. Pelican tel. (+995) 32 293 99 39. Tariff: 1km - 50 tetri. Pink Taxi tel. (+ 995) 557 3 000 09. Tariff: 1 km - 50 tetri. Taxi.ge tel. (+ 995) 32 274 74 74. Tariff: 1km - 60 tetri.

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Basics

8

Basics

Facts & Figures

Population Georgia 4469200 Tbilisi 1,225,000 Ethnic composition Georgians 84%, Azerbaijanis 6.5%, Armenians 5.7%, Russians 1.5%, Ossetians 0.9%, others including Greeks, Ukrainians, Kists, Yezids - 1.4%. Territory 69,700 sq km Borders Black Sea 330km, The Greater Caucasus Mountain Range forms the 723 km northern border with Russia, Armenia 164km, Azerbaijan 322 km and Turkey 252 km. Longest river Mtkvari 1515 km Largest lake Paravani 37.5 sq km Highest point Shkhara 5,193 m (17,040 ft) Local time Together with all countries of the Caucasus region and Russia, Georgia is in the UTC+4 time zone.

Climate Rainfall, mm

Temperature, °C 30

100 75

20

50

10 0

25 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

0

Tbilisi experiences relatively warm winters and hot summers. Winds dominate in most parts of Tbilisi throughout the year.

Exchange rates As of March 20, 2013 €1 – 2.20 Lari US$1 – 1.65 Lari

£ 1 – 2.50 Lari

Current exchange rates are available at

tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

Market values How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonald’s Big Mac 4.95 Lari €2.25 $3 Loaf of white bread 0.70 Lari €0.32 $0.42 Snickers bar 1.00 Lari €0.45 $0.60 Litre of vodka 17.00 Lari €7.73 $10.30 Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 1.50 Lari €0.68 $0.90 Bottle of local wine (from) 7.00 Lari €3.18 $4.24 20 Malboros 2.70 Lari €1.23 $1.64 Public transport ticket 0.50 Lari €0.23 $0.30 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 2.10 Lari €0.95 $1.27

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Crime & Safety

National holidays

Tbilisi is arguably as safe as many European cities. There are pickpockets and theft does occur, but it is not a common happening. Just be streetwise, don’t carry lots of cash and don’t be too obvious with the money you do have on you. In essence, the locals are usually friendly and welcoming. Georgians can be impulsive and loud and you may encounter passionate arguments. Usually they are just barking at each other, but be sensible, and stay clear. Generally, foreigners are seen as a valuable asset and you are unlikely to encounter any problems. If you do have any encounter with crime, the police are usually friendly and helpful. Police corruption in Georgia is incredibly rare.

January 1 New Year’s Day January 7 Orthodox Christmas January 19 Baptism Day of our Lord Jesus Christ March 3 Mother’s Day March 8 International Women’s Day April 9 Day of National Unity May 5 (2013) E astern Orthodox Sunday May 6 (2013) E astern Orthodox Monday May 9 Day of Victory over Fascism May 12 Saint Andrea the First Day May 26 Independence Day August 28 Saint Mary’s Day October 14 Day of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (in Mtskheta) November 23 Saint George’s Day

Customs You can bring 400 cigarettes, or 50 cigars or 50 cigarillos or 250 grams of other tobacco products as well as 4 litters of alcoholic beverages into Georgia without declaring it at customs. There are allowances for importing without declaration up to 30kg of food, not exceeding 500 Lari, once in a calendar day. Import or export of money up to 30000 Lari or equivalent in other currencies is exempted from duty. Exporting antiques and old works of arts is subject to licensing and permission from the Ministry of Culture. Cats and dogs must be accompanied by veterinarian health certificate. All international regulations on narcotics, guns and explosives apply.

Internet Tbilisi Loves You WiFi network works in some city areas. It is free and doesn’t require any registration, but is rather slow. Almost every café/restaurant/bar has free WiFi. To be sure look for W symbol in our guide. There are a number of internet clubs around Rustaveli avenue. Our favourite is at Magti mobile office at Rustaveli Av. 22. Apple computers are located on two floors and cost 1 Lari per hour. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Religion Since early centuries, different nations and religions were coming to and going from Tbilisi area, and all of them left their traces in numerous churches and religions. The absolutely dominant religion in Georgia is Eastern Orthodox. Georgia is among the first Christian countries in the world as it’s regions officially became Christian in the 4th century. Georgians take their religion very seriously. Try to cross yourself when seeing every single church, driving on the mountain road at the speed around 100 km/h as most of Georgian marshrutka drivers do... not easy, but to do that is almost a must. However centuries of Persian and Turkish invasions left a deep Muslim mark. Armenians are the second biggest religious minority (3.9%) in Georgia after Muslims (9.9%). Catholics – 0.8 %, Yezids 0.4%, Jews - 0,1% are presented in the city too. Tbilisi is open to minorities’ historical churches, but try to ask a random Georgian what he thinks about building a new Mosque, for the Muslim population of the country, in the Muslim village… Tolerance and cosmopolitanism might evaporate somewhere if you rub the surface a little bit.

Smoking

Georgian supplies current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins. Adapters for plugs are not easy to find in Tbilisi, so bring your own.

Georgia does not enforce a smoking ban in public places. Very few bars and restaurants even offer nonsmoking sections. So if you can’t stand smoke, look for G symbol in our guide. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by corner kiosks that are located throughout the city.

Money

Visas

The Georgian national currency is the Lari (GEL) divided into 100 tetri. It was introduced in 1995, replacing the kupon lari, a transitional currency used after Georgia declared independence from the Soviet Union. The lari is a relatively stable currency. Paper bills are in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Bills for 1 and 2 lari were replaced by coins. Coins are in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 tetri and 1 and 2 lari denominations. ATMs are plentiful and the vast majority will accept foreign cards. As always, if you can, try and use ATMs associated with a reputable high street bank. Card fraud is an international problem and taking precautions is as advisable in Tbilisi as any other city. Try and carry small denomination cash as taxi drivers and small shops might not be able to change high value notes. You can also use debit and credit cards in many shops, bars, restaurants and hotels in Tbilisi.

You do not need a visa to enter and stay in Georgia for up to 360 days if you are a foreign national who permanently resides in the USA, Canada, EU, New Zealand, Israel, United Arab Emirates, Iraq, Japan, Republic of Korea, Brazil, United Mexican States, State of Qatar, Sultanate of Oman, Kingdom of Bahrain, State of Kuwait (check the full list at www.rs.ge/ en/5418) do not need visa to enter and stay in Georgia for up to 360 days. Citizens of the member states of European Union can enter Georgia merely by producing their national identity card. Russian Federation and Ukraine citizens do not need a visa to enter and stay in Georgia for up to 90 days. If you’re not from one of the above countries, you can get a visa from a Georgian embassy or consulate. An “Ordinary” 90-day, single-entry visa, which covers tourism, is US$50. Visas are also issued at the official road and air entry points, but not if you are arriving by rail or sea. Foreign nationals who have a multiple entry US, EU or Schengen member states visa, valid for one year or more and previously used once at least, can enter or stay in Georgia without visa up to 90 days, within the validity term of the visa.

Electricity

 The Tbilisi telephone code is +995 32 tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

Language The country’s official language is Georgian, but English is widely used. Russian is also spoken by the majority of Georgians, particularly those over twenty five. See below for a list of some of the most common words and phrases. Hello gamarjoba Goodbye nakhvamdis, kargad Please tu sheidzleba You’re welcome arapris Thank you madlobt Excuse me ukatsravad Yes diakh, ki No ara Enjoy your meal gemrielad miirtvit Cheers! gaumarjos! I don’t understand ar mesmis I don’t know ar vici Help! mishvelet! damekhmaret! Hospital saavdmkofo Ambulance sastsrafo Where is…? sad aris...? Right, left marjvniv, martskhniv Do you speak English? inglisurad laparakobt? How much does … cost? ra ghirs? What’s your name? ra gqviat? Beer ludi Wine ghvino Water tsk’ali One erti Two ori Three sami Four otkhi Five khuti Six ekvsi Seven shvidi Eight rva Nine tskhra Ten ati Hundred asi Thousand atasi Push (on a door) miatsekit Pull (on a door) gamoaghet Open ghiaa Closed daketilia

ა a დ d ზ z კ k’ ნ n ჟ zh ტ t ქ k შ sh ძ dz ხ kh



ბ b ე e თ t ლ l ო o რ r უ u ღ gh ჩ ch წ ts’ ჯ j



გ g ვ v ი i მ m პ p’ ს s ფ p ყ q’ ც ts ჭ ch’ ჰ h



Most city centre streets signs are written in English, but in case you get lost in Old Town are or in the outskirts, here is a list of street signs in Georgian. We hope you to find where you are! Street ქუჩა kucha Square მოედანი moedani Avenue პროსპექტი prospekti Boulevard ბულვარი bulvari Bridge ხიდი khidi Embankment სანაპირო sanapiro Highway გზატკეცილი gzatkets’ili Lane შესახვევი shesakhvevi Descent დაღმართი daghmarti Some streets in Tbilisi have been renamed recently, but often people will still use the old names. Sometimes maps and street signs do not agree version should be used. We have decided to use which ever seems the most popular name.

August - October 2013

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10

cradle of winemaking

Basics Mail & Phones Post Georgian post is expensive and slow. You can only send postcards from post offices and they aren’t always easy to find. We did spot one mailbox on Shavteli Street, but when we got close it appeared to be broken. Postal stamps also can be bought only at the post offices. A post card to Europe will cost you 4 Lari, to the USA 4.80Lari. An ordinary letter up to 100g costs 13.20/15.20 Lari. A parcel up to 500 g is around 49,90 Lari to 66.05 Lari. Exact rates to you country are available at www.georgianpost.ge. Post Office #14 Gorgasali 34, tel. (+995) 32 272 27 04 Post Office #2 G-4, Aghmashenebeli Av. 44, tel. (+995) 32 295 60 06. Post office #44 Tsamebuli Av. 84/86, tel. (+995) 32 274 88 91. Post Office #60 Pekini Av. 39, tel. (+995) 32 238 69 04. Post office #79 L-2, Chavchavadze Av. 21, tel. (+995) 32 222 74 03.

Express mail DHL Tsereteli Av. 105, tel. (+995) 32 269 60 60, [email protected], www.dhl.com.

FedEx Tsamebuli Av. 39, tel. (+995) 32 274 82 40,

[email protected], www.fedex.com. Meridian Express (UPS) Tsamebuli Av. 15-17, tel. (+995) 32 218 01 44, [email protected], www. ups.com. TNT G-4, Aghmashenebeli Av. 25, tel. (+995) 32 2250328, www.tnt.ge.

Using a telephone Fixed line

Tbilisi telephone code is (+995) 32. In our guide all telephone numbers are written including this code. To call from a landline within Tbilisi to another number in the city just dial last 7 digits of the telephone number we list. If the number starts with 3 digits (e.g. 559, etc.), dial 0 and then full 9 digits number. The are no payphones around Tbilisi.

Mobile

You can get a Georgian SIM-card (sometimes even for free) at the offices listed below. You’ll need to show your passport. Calling from a mobile to a fixed line phone, dial 0, then the city code (32) then the 7 last digits. Calling to other mobiles is tricky. Sometimes it is enough just to dial the last 9 digits of the number. If that doesn’t work, just dial the full number starting 995. Beeline B-1, Rustaveli Av. 14, tel. (+995) 32 220 06 11, www.beeline.ge. Geocell B-1, Kostava 35, tel. (+995) 577 45 90 89, www.geocell.ge. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Magti B-1, Rustaveli Av. 22, tel. (+995) 32 217 00 00, www.magticom.ge. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.

Roaming

To call a fixed line or mobile in Georgia you should always dial +995 instead of 00995.

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Foreign nationals who are holders of the UNO’s or its specialized agencies’ travel documents (Laissez-Passer), can enter or stay on the territory of Georgia without visa up to 90 days. Georgia considers the crossings from Russia into South Ossetia and Abkhazia illegal. Travel from Georgia to Russia is not simple. All foreign visitors, with the exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must obtain a visa. There is no Russian Federation embassy or consulate in Tbilisi, but you can apply for a visa at the consulate service of the Russia interests section at the Embassy of Switzerland in Georgia at Chavchavadze Av. 51, tel. (+995) 32 291 24 06. Open Mon, Tue 09:00 - 13:00, Wed, Thu 15:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 13:30. Upon arrival in Russia you will need to fill in an immigration card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. Travel to Armenia became much easier in 2013. All citizens of the EU can stay in Armenia up to 180 days without a visa. Citizens of CIS countries and Argentina also do not require visas. Citizens of all other countries must apply for a visa. We recommend you applying to e-visa at evisa.mfa.am. A 21 day visa costs US$10, 120 days is US$40. Contact: Armenian Embassy in Tbilisi (+995) 32 295 17 23 www.georgia.mfa.am/en. All visitors of Azerbaijan are required to obtain a visa prior to arrival. Citizens of CIS countries can enter Azerbaijan visa free. Citizens of Turkey can obtain a visa upon arrival. Tourist visas are issued on a single entry basis only. All single entry visas are valid for up to 90 days from the date of issue with the duration of stay up to 30 days. Contact: Azerbaijan Embassy in Tbilisi (+995 32) 225 35 26, www.azembassy.ge. Entering Turkey is visa free for citizens of most of countries. If you do require a visa many will be able to pay on entry. However citizens of Mexico, Peru, China, India, Pakistan, some other Asian countries and most of Africa are required to get a visa from the consulate. Contact Turkish embassy in Tbilisi (+995) 32 225 20 72. For a complete listing of embassy locations and phone numbers see Directory/Foreign representations at tbilisi. inyourpocket.com.

The breakaway regions The collapse of the Soviet Union re-ignited many centuriesold ethnic disputes in the South Caucasus area. In Georgia, several violent conflicts between 1992 and 2008 led to the loss of Tbilisi’s control over the regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia, whose local authorities declared those territories “independent republics”. Around 300,000 people were uprooted from their homes and relocated to other parts of Georgia, where tens of thousands of them still reside in temporary settlements. Abkhazia and South Ossetia are recognized as independent states by Russia, Venezuela, Nicaragua and several Pacific island-states, the rest of the international community deeming them an integral part of Georgia. Travel to both regions is at the moment strongly discouraged by most western governments, notably the UK Home Office and the US Department of State. One should bear in mind that consular assistance cannot be normally provided in the territory of Abkhazia and South Ossetia by officials of countries that do not recognize the “republics”, therefore any emergency cases (e.g. loss of passport, accident) will need to be dealt with by the traveller without assistance, and may carry severe consequences. The new Georgian government elected in October 2012 pledged to normalize relations with its breakaway regions, yet as of March 2013 this has not brought about any change on the ground. p. 43

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Georgia is not only the country with the earliest record of winemaking, moreover it is home to unique wine-making traditions and techniques as well as of grape-varieties unknown in the rest of the world.

History & Stories According to Greek my thology, Jason and the Argonauts ventured into Georgia on their quest for the Golden Fleece but found wine first. As it is written, they were stunned by the sight of grapevines on the occasion of their arrival in Colchis. At the kings palace, they even discovered a well, which was flowing over with wine. It´s a small wonder, they kept on searching for the Fleece, instead of just enjoying what they already had discovered. It is widely acknowledged, that the ancient Greek civilization introduced cultivation of grapes and the knowledge of winemaking to the Mediterranean region. But as the myth of Jason and the Argonauts suggests, the source of the Greek knowledge might lay in the Caucasian region, Georgia could actually be the cradle of winemaking. Cradle or not, Georgia is home to one of the oldest winemaking traditions known to mankind. Tools, grape pits and amphorae (Qvevris)have been excavated in the valley of Alazani (Kakheti), which date back more than 4000 years. Close to the city of Vani, grape pips were found, which derive from the variety of Rkatsiteli, which is still largely cultivated today. All of this shows Georgia to be the country with the earliest proof of cultivation of Vitis Vinifera, the common grape vine.

Techniques & Traditions Not only is the history of Georgian winemaking very long, moreover the ancient traditions and techniques survived. Even nowadays, the Georgian way of winemaking differs from Western European techniques in three ways: 1. When making white wines, usually skins and juice are separated first, then the juice is fermented, resulting in a crisp, fresh, fruity wine. In Georgia however many white wines (though not the major part) are fermented with the skins. As the skins hold extra flavours and the so-called tannins (astringent and bitter plant polyphenolic compound), the wine gets richer, more structured, deeper in colour and can ripen longer. 2. Fermentation and ripening is traditionally processed in amphora of clay, which are dug in the ground. This can be compared to the western European method of using wooden barrels (barriques) for ripening, but the result is different. Such Georgian Qvevri-wines have an earthy taste to them, complimenting the tannic structure and the fruitiness into an utmost unusual compound of flavours. (Check out the Qvevri - Wine of Tbilvino, it is

inexpensive and really well done. On sale at Smart Supermarket). 3. If the before mentioned methods don´t suit your taste, maybe the Georgian semi-dry and semi-sweet wines will. There is a huge variety of white and red wines, so you have to go out there and try them to discover what you like best. Decent sweet wines are produced by not allowing the fermentationprocess to fully convert the sugar of the grapes into alcohol. Of course there are many examples where the wine has been additionally sweetened after fermentation. Those are easy to spot. First of all, your palate will tell you, because the additional

Wine shops in the city Château Mukhrani Wine Studio Samghebro 6, Maidan Sq., tel. (+995) 32 214 91 51, winetours@ mukhrani.com, www.mukhrani.com. Château Mukhrani also has a Wine Studio in Tbilisi in the Old Town on Meidan Square. Professional wine tasters will guide you through the finer points and traditions of Georgian wine. As well as wine tasting sessions the Studio offers an assortment of Georgian cheeses for you to taste as an accompaniment. An exclusive selection of Château Mukhrani Wines are offered at a special price. Winary Khareba F-5, Rustaveli Av. 50, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 293 50 73, www.winery-khareba. com. One of the best wine shops, Winery Khareba offers a wide variety of red, white and sparkling wines, as well as bulk wine, grape seed oil and vinegar. Khareba produces wine from 745 hectares in 3 regions of Georgia. A wine bar is also available. Q A Wine Pushkini 19. You can find homemade or draught

wine on almost every corner in Tbilisi. The trick is to find the truly great stuff. We highly recommend this modest little wine store on Pushkini Street on the way from Freedom Square to Baratashvili Bridge. Its draft wine is particularly good, with perfect combination of rare quality and a surprisingly pleasant price. It’s also convenient located in the centre of the city. Even though it is small and doesn’t carry the range of bottled wines some other places boast, the owners claim the stock they do carry is cheaper than anywhere else. Go for the draught and the prices are even lower, we sampled Saperavi at four Lari a litre and two types of Kotekhi white for three Lari or less.... Hic!

Wine Shop C-2, Leselidze 27/15, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 230 69 07. Gocha, the owner, describe this place to us: all about Georgian wine, and this is fairly true. Do not be fooled by small outside! Inside it is big cellar with nice selection of wine including own products: Saperavi wine and cherry liqueur. Wine bar and degustation are available. Q A

WE ARE YOUR ONE STOP SHOPPING PLACE FOR ҉ WIDEST RANGE OF GEORGIAN WINE ҉ WINE ADVISES and DEGUSTATION BAR ҉ WINE GIFTS Kote Apkhazi (Leselidze) 27/15 ҉ Tel: (+995 32) 230 69 07 tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

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Cradle of Winemaking sugar sort of covers the fruitiness and structure of the wine, it will not taste refreshing, but will tire your palate. Secondly, your head will tell you, because of the hangover next morning. So it’s better spend two or three Lari more to be sure of quality.

Grapes & Tastes Georgia is the home of grape species unknown to the rest of the world. There are more than 500 so-called autochtone varieties, which are only to be found in Georgia, a greater density than anywhere else. Thirty eight of them are viable for wine-making. Here are the three most important varieties: 1. Rkatsiteli is the most widely planted white grape. If you are into light and fruity wines, try the European style Tsinandali, which is a blend containing 85% Rkatsiteli, 15% Mtsvane. These wines are said to have a distinctive taste of green apples and great freshness. 2. Mtsvane is a late-ripening white grape, for which yield must be limited in order to ensure quality. It is often blended with Rkatsiteli, as it adds fruitiness. 3. Saperavi is the most widely planted red grape of Georgia. If it says “Saperavi” on a bottle, in most cases it will be a dry but fruity wine. Go for it, even if you think you don´t like dry ones! Kindzmarauli wines are made from Saperavi as well, but as the grapes ripen longer, the wine is usually dense, more complex and semi-sweet.

Regions & Landscapes Don´t get confused by what’s written on the bottle. Like France, many of the Georgian wines are named after the village, the vineyard or region where they originate. For example, Kindzmarauli is a small appellation on the slopes of the Caucasus in Kakheti: Saperavi is the Grape, Kindzmarauli the location and Kakheti the region. The four main regions in order of importance are Kakheti (south-east), Kartli (central-east), Imereti (west-central) and Ratcha-Lechkhumi/Lower Swaneti (north-west). Undoubtedly, Kakheti is the very heartland of Georgian wine, producing the biggest quantity. Within those regions you find smaller appellations such as the above mentioned Kindzmarauli or Tsinandali. Such an appellation is usually subject to geographic limitation, certain standards of quality or specific blending of wines.

Tours & Tastings Because of its sheer beauty, we would recommend to visit Kakheti for a wine tour or a tasting. You can go there for a day-trip from Tbilisi or choose to stay overnight in Sighnaghi, with its stunning views of the Caucasus mountain range. Many wine tastings are offered in the region; some of them

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

more, others less professional. You can catch a marshrutka, head there and just see what you find, but in order to spot the really interesting locations it might be advisable to join a guided tour. Why-Not-Hostel in Tbilisi is offering a day trip to no less than four different Kakhetian wineries, giving a comprehensive insight into Georgian wine-making. Leave the beers aside for a while, head into the wine-regions of gorgeous Georgia and learn more about tastes, Georgian hospitality and the traditions of the Tamada. By Jörg Dauscher, Author and Wineprofessional, Berlin (Germany) www.vinumberlin.de, www.ideenhandlung.de

Château Mukhrani Wine Tour If you have even a mere passing interest in wine or Georgian history and culture, a visit to Château Mukhrani is a must. The Chateau is situated twenty five minutes outside Tbilisi on the estate of Prince Ivane Mukhranbatoni who was a descendant of the Bagrationi, reputedly the oldest royal dynasty in the world. The tour they offer will give you a fascinating insight into the traditions and secrets of Georgian winemaking, traditions which have the longest history of viniculture of any country in the world. Blended in are facts and fascinating stories about the Georgian royal family, the history of which is intimately entwined with wine. The Mukhrani Estate has its own prestigious pedigree in winemaking. Prince Ivane Mukhranbatoni learned the art of viniculture in the Bordeaux and Champagne regions of France and brought innovative techniques to Georgian wine production. Sine 1882, the estate has won many awards for its vintages. Wine Tour Highlights • Visit Prince Uvane Mukhranbatoni’s Castle, garden, stables and old cellars • Discover the Château’s art of winemaking • Stroll through the vineyards and participate in the grape harvest • Discover the ultra-modern Winery Extra Special • Participate in churchkhela making, bread baking and chacha distillation • Enjoy Georgian cuisine or a picnic lunch • Ride English and Arabian horses • Purchase the finest wines of Château Mukhrani at a special price. Château Mukhrani Tour Reservations: Tel: (+995) 591 55 53 33 / (+995) 595 99 13 14, [email protected]

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Culture & Events Art galleries Apollo G-3, Aghmashenebeli Av. 23, tel. (+995) 32 296 42 79. Retro Photo Atelier C-3, Shardeni, tel. (+995) 32 243 89 21, www.retroatelier.ge. Oat Gallery & Art Café 144 C-3, upstairs from Betelemi 27, tel. (+995) 599 72 09 06. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. Vanda B-2, D.Chonqadze 14, tel. (+995) 32 293 42 86.

Cinemas Amirani Kostava 36, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 299 99 55. Q Tickets 7.50-11.50 Lari. Rustaveli Rustaveli Av. 5, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 293 22 53. Q Tickets 7.50-10.50 Lari. Sakartvelo Guramishvili Av. 2/9, MDidube, tel. (+995) 32 230 80 80. Q Tickets 5-8 Lari.

Cultural Centres British Council B-1, Rustaveli Av. 34, MRustaveli, tel.

(+995) 32 225 04 07, www.britishcouncil.org/ge.htm. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute F-5, Sandukeli 16, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 293 89 45, www.goethe.de. QOpen 09:00 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Hayartun Armenian Cultural Centre I-6, Armazi 18. Hillel House G. Tabidze 5/3, room 48, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 883 25 17 71. Institut Français G-3, Aghmashenebeli Av. 75, tel. (+ 995) 32 292 28 55, www.ccf-tbilisi.ge. QOpen 10:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International House Tbilisi M-1, 26th May Sq. 2, MTechnical University, tel. (+995 32) 294 05 15, www.ihtbilisi.ge.

Theatres A. Griboedov Russian State Drama Theatre B-2, Rustaveli Av. 2, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 293 58 11, www.griboedovtheatre.ge. Gabriadze Theatre C-2, Shavteli 13, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 298 65 90, www.gabriadze.com/en. Marjanishvili Theater G-4, Marjanishvili 8, MMarjanishvili, tel. (+995) 32 295 35 82, www.marjanishvili.net/en/. Music and Drama State Theatre F-2, Aghmashenebeli Av. 182, tel. (+995) 32 234 80 90, www.musictheatre.ge. Nabadi - Georgian Folklore Theatre B-1, Rustaveli Av. 19, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 298 99 91, www.nabadi.ge. Rustaveli Theatre B-1, Rustaveli 17, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 272 68 68, www.rustavelitheatre.ge. Tbilisi Concert Hall E-4, Kostava 36/1, MRustaveli, www.tbilisiconcerthall.com/en. Tbilisi State Conservatoire B-1, Al. Griboedov 8, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 293 46 24, www. conservatoire.edu.ge.

Culture & Events Tumanishvili International Art Festival GIFT Festival 2013

Editor’s note Georgian culture is unique and vibrant. Georgians treat their culture very seriously. It is not considered something just for museums and tourists but a vital part of their every day identity. It is not just something valued by older generations but young people too. Georgian culture has evolved over thousands of years and has also absorbed influences from many invaders through the millennia, yet making them their own. Their folklore is rich, their dance both beautiful and powerful, their singing is sublime. Literature, fine arts, theatre and music all also have long and strong traditions. If you do nothing else, try and witness some authentic Georgian dancing and listen to a polyphonic choir. You will be moved.

Golden Eye

October 2013 The International Festival of Cameramen “Golden Eye” has a goal to support the development of movie and TV cameramen, promote and stimulate their work. Festival hosts professional trainings for engineers and technical managers. Festival also hosts seminars and trainings on use and management of new technologies. www.goldeneye.ge Tel: (995 32) 230 00 06, (995 32) 254 14 31;

What’s on Tbilisi International Theatre Festival

19 September - 8 October 2013 The most important event of Tbilisi theatre life - international festival takes place in Tbilisi and is a crossroad of European and Asian theatres since 2009 – when it was established. Still in 2009 the Festival hosted 15 performances from 13 different countries of Europe, Caucasia and Asia and had around 350 guests. The Georgian Show Case- one of the major events of the Festival hosted 51 theater producers and critics from Europe and Asia. “Tbilisi International” is a combiner, a link or a bridge between Theater of Europe and Theater of Asia..”. –they say. This year festival will be hosting performances from Canada, UK, Poland, Romania, Italy, Russia, Israel etc. As well as regional theatres from different parts of Georgia. http://www.tbilisiinternational.com/ Address: 8 Marjanishvili Street Festival Office: 2 95 35 82 / 2 95 43 07 Fax: 2 95 40 01 Box Office: 2 955 966 / 2 47 57 68 E-mail: [email protected]

International Music Festival Autumn Tbilisi

September 2013 International music festival “Autumn Tbilisi” was founded in 1993 by Tbilisi Centre for Music & Culture, Tbilisi Symphony Orchestra and Tbilisi Municipality. During its history “Autumn Tbilisi” became one of the most distinguished and popular musical events in the country and gained popularity outside Georgia too. Every year festival hosts famous musicians from all over the world. The program of the festival combines concerts of classical, folk and jazz music. The festival also gives big importance to the presentation of works by contemporary Georgian composers and Georgian traditional music. +995-32-2950119, 2960620,2961243, 2962207(box office)

CINEDOC

15-20 October 2013 Is international documentary film festival of the Caucasus that takes place for the first time this year during October 15-20. Festival consists of 4 sections- International Documentary Competition, Focus Caucasus (documentaries from the Caucasus) Georgian Panorama (films produced in Georgia during the last 25 years) and CinéDOC Young (documentaries for a young audience). Film screenings will take place in cinema Rustacali, Goethe Institute Tbilisi and Tbilisi Youth Palace. Tel.: +995 555 105 049 / [email protected]

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

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GIFT/Georgian International Festival of Arts in Tbilisi is an annual celebration and has a turbulent history of 16 years. Back now after 3 years long pause, the festival will he again “highlighting the world acclaimed theatre companies and artists assigning its major call for peace, progress and unity”. It was established with the participation of the directors of Edinburgh, Adeline, Melbourne, Perth International Arts Festivals in 1997 and up to date is being supported by Peter Brook, Andrzej Wajda, Vanessa Redgrave, Michael Kahn, Andrei Konchalovsky, Thelma Holt and others. Tel: 0 322 35 02 03 [email protected] http:// www.giftfestival.ge/

We will gladly become informational partner for any cultural events in the city. Contact us at [email protected] or call (+995) 555 43 80 45

Tbilisoba

the last or the one before last weekend of October Tbilisoba is a moving festation of the city of Tbilisi which usually takes time on the last weekend of October or the one before the last. It was and first held at the end of October 1979 at the initiative of Eduard Shevardnadze, then being the first Secretary of the Communist Party. This is when the tradition was started. The festival usually hosts open-air concerts of traditional music and dancing and other cultural events, mostly taking place in the old town. Traditionally people from different regions would present their harvest and goods from the villages. The tradition of holding this festival resumed in 1995 after several years of pause during the civil unrest. Look up for exact dates of this year event at www.tbilisi.gov.ge.

tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

There are very many different Georgian traditional dances. Each of them has own history and costume. Every dance displays the unique culture and traditions of the region it comes from.

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History

history

Tbilisi history’s is a story of repeated invasions and wars. During its 1500 years of being a capital, Tbilisi suffered many devastating raids that left most of its inhabitants dead and the city severely damaged. On nearly thirty occasions it was almost completely destroyed. According to legend, in the 5th century, when forests covered Tbilisi and its surroundings, the King of Kartli, Vakhtang Gorgasali, was hunting with his company when his falcon caught a pheasant in mid air, but then disappeared from the sight. When they found the birds, they discovered that they had fallen into hot spring and died. The King was so impressed that he decided to build a city on the site. The city stands on numerous sulphuric hot springs and was named after the old Georgian word “tbili” which means warm. Archaeological evidence actually shows the area was first settled in the Neolithic age, during the 3-4th millennium BC. The earliest written accounts of settlement come from the second half of the 4th century AD.

Narikala Fortress 4th century During the reign of King Varaz-Bakur I a fortress was built, but towards the end of the century it felt into Persian hands. 5th century The fortress was retaken and during the reign of Vakhtang I Gorgasali it was improved. The area around it was also developed. 6th century The will of King Vakhtang I Gorgasali, required his son, King Dachi, move the capital of Kartli (Iberia) from Mtskheta to Tbilisi. Tbilisi was enlarged and the reconstruction of the fortress was completed. The city became an important stop on the trade routes between Europe and Asia.

citizens massacred. The Persian governor and the presiding Georgian prince were both tortured to death. 736–738 The Umayyad Caliphate launched the Arabian invasion of Georgia to reduce Byzantine and Khazars power in the region, establishing The Emirate of Tbilisi (al-Tefelis) in 736. It existed until Georgia’s recapture by King David IV in 1122. A large proportion of the Georgian aristocracy were killed during the invasion for refusing to convert to Islam. In 809, The Emir of Tbilisi proclaimed independence from the Caliphate. The Caliphate sought the help of Georgian princes against the rebellion. From 833 The Emirate regained power and the Emir stopped recognizing the higher authority of the Caliphate. In 853, Caliph Al-Mutawakkil sent an army against the Caucasian rebels. The Abbasid army sacked and burned Tbilisi, and executed the Emir. Many Georgian nobles were captured during the invasion. They were either killed for refusing to embrace Islam, or sent as prisoners to the Abbasid capital at Samarra. By the 10th century only Tbilisi and its hinterland was still ruled by an Emir and relations with the Caliphate were tenuous. During the 11th century a council of elders (birebi) gained power, increasing the influence of the wealthier citizens. The kept the Emirate alive, mostly to avoid the taxes of the Georgian kings. King Bagrat IV took the city three times (1046, 1049, 1062), but he could not retain control. 1121 David IV “The Builder” (Agmashenebeli), King of Georgia, won the battle of Didgori. 1122 King David entered Tbilisi, putting an end to almost 500 years of Arab influence. Tbilisi was made the royal capital of Georgia, uniting the two ancient kingdoms of Iberia and Colchis. Tbilisi expanded and its population totalled around 80,000. Although a multi-ethnic community, its inhabitants were predominantly Muslim.

1440 Alexander I refused to pay tribute to Jahan Shah who then invaded Georgia with 20,000 troops and sacked Tbilisi. From 1477 to 1478 Tbilisi was Uzun Hassan, the Iranian King of Kings. 1522 Tbilisi came under Persian control. 1524 King David X frees Tbilisi. Many parts of the city were rebuilt. 1762 The Kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti was established. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Tbilisi was caught in the middle of rivalry between Persia and the Ottoman Turks. of Georgia tried several times to free Tbilisi from Persian rule. Shah Agha-Mohammad Khan burnt the city to the ground in 1795. King Erekle II turned to Russia for help.

King Erekle II 1801 The Georgia governorate was established. Russia annexed the Kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti. Russia finally left Georgia two hundred years later in July 2001. 1846 Tbilisi was made the centre of the Tbilisi (Tiflis) Governorate. The city grew economically and new buildings were built, many in a European style. New roads and railways were also built, connecting Tbilisi to Russia, Batumi, Poti, Baku, and Yerevan. By the middle of 19th century Tbilisi was the most important city of the Tsarist Caucasus. These relatively peaceful years allowed the city to grow. Much of the building of the period is still visible in the architecture of the city today. At the turn of 20th century Tbilisi attracted many European bohemians and gained the nickname “Paris of the East”.

Queen Tamar

King Vakhtang I Gorgasali 570-580 The Persians took over Tbilisi forcing Prince Stephen II to recognize the suzerainty of the Caliph. 627-628 Tbilisi was under siege from the Khazars and Byzantine Empire armies during the Third Perso-Turkic war. When they stormed the city, the Georgians surrendered without further resistance. Even so, the city was looted and its

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

In 12 and 13th centuries Tbilisi had a thriving economy and a sophisticated social structure under the rule of Queen Tamar. Shota Rustaveli wrote his famous epic poem, The Knight in the Panther’s Skin. This period is often called the “Georgia’s Golden Age”. In 1226 this period of prosperity ended when the Khwarezmian Empire captured Tbilisi and devastated the city. 1236 Georgia came under Mongol domination after suffering crushing defeats. The country retained its statehood, but the Mongols influenced culture and for the next century. In the 1320s The Mongols were forced out and Georgia became an independent state with Tbilisi as its capital. 1386-1403 Tamerlane’s army invaded eight times, sacking Tbilisi during the first invasion and capturing King Bagrat V.

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On 9 April 1989, the Red Army crushed a peaceful demonstration on Rustaveli Avenue. At least 19 people were killed. It marked the start of the “second independence”. 1991-1992 Fighting broke out in central Tbilisi around the Parliament to overthrow President Zviad Gamsachurdii. Bullet holes can still be seen in the buildings nearby. Shevarnadze was appointed Acting Chairman of the Georgian State Council 1995 Eduard Shevarnadze was elected to the restored Presidency with 70% of the vote. During the 1990s crime and corruption plagued Tbilisi and Georgia had the reputation of one of the word’s most corrupt countries. While Shevardnadze seemed largely innocent, he was accused of protecting guilty politicians and officials. On 2 November 2003, Georgia held a parliamentary election. It was denounced as unfair by international election observer and the results provoked anger from the population. Mass demonstrations were held and protesters broke into Parliament, forcing President Shevardnadze to flee. He declared a State of Emergency and later agreed to new elections. The events became known as the “Rose Revolution”.

“Rose Revolution” On 25 January 2004 Mikheil Saakashvili became a president and Georgia was given a new national flag. Saakashvili initiated widespread reforms, with mixed results. However, corruption was drastically reduced. The World Bank named Georgia the world’s top economic reformer and ranks in the top tier of countries for “ease of doing business”. It’s neighbours are no where near Georgia’s ranking. 2007 Mikheil Saakashvili resigned after anti-government demonstrations. On 5 January 2008 Saakashvili regains the presidency after winning the elections. On 8 August 2008 War broke out with Russia. The five-day conflict killed hundreds of people and left thousands more as refugees in their own country. The result was the loss of Abkhazia and South Ossetia, both recognised by Russia as independent territories. In October 2012, Saakashvili’s party lost parliamentary elections to the Georgian Dream coalition led by billionaire businessman Bidzina Ivanishvili.

Tourist Information Rustaveli Avenue at the beginning of 20th century 1917, Georgia gained its freedom on May 26, 1918 and Tbilisi became the capital of the new country. In spring 1921, Georgia was again conquered, this time by Soviet Russia and became Georgian Soviet Socialist Republic. Tbilisi became increasingly industrialised, population grew and it was one of the most important cities of the USSR.

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Tourist Information Centre B-2, Rustaveli Av. 3, (+995) 32 293 12 60. Municipal tourist sentre with free maps, brochures, advises. Also at Tbilisi Internationa;l Airport. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00.

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Where to stay Cream of the crop Courtyard by Marriott Tbilisi B-2, Freedom Sq. 4,

MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 277 91 00, fax (+995) 32 277 91 10, [email protected], www.courtyardtbilisi.com. Located on Freedom Square, this is the second Marriott property in Tbilisi. Although not as opulent as the Tbilisi Marriot, it still offers a service and facilities to a recognised international standard. Fifty percent of the rooms have views out over Freedom Square and more than half of the rooms are non-smoking. The health club has exercise machines, a sauna, massage room and a small swimming pool. Non-residents can access all these facilities for a fee of 40 Lari per day. Next to reception is a booth for Pegasus Airlines, where you can buy tickets to fly to Mestia. This is by far the easiest place to book a seat on the plane. Also on the ground floor is the Freedom Brassiere, which comprises a bar area and also a more formal restaurant, with views over bustling Freedom Square. The drinks list is extensive, while the food menu offers international cuisine with a few traditional Georgian dishes. Prices exclude VAT. Breakfast for non-residents costs 45 Lari. Q118 rooms (45 deluxe 225US$, 66 superior 245US$, 5 corner rooms 295US$, 2 junios suites 315US$). PZiJHAUFLGKDXCW hhhh

Press Box “Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison” The Independent “From Albania to Ukraine In Your Pocket is a wonderful source of boutique hotels, spas and great little bars.” Elle “Detailed, carefully researched guides.” Daily Mail “Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city.” The Guardian “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times “Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on both well-known and more offbeat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.” The Independent €1 = 2.20Lari; US$1 = 1.65Lari; £1 = 2.50Lari (20 July 2013)

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Where to stay Holiday Inn Tbilisi E-2, 26th May Sq 1, tel. (+995) 32

230 00 99, fax (+995) 32 230 00 01, [email protected], www.hi-tbilisi.com. Formerly known as hotel Adjaria, the Holiday Inn has been comprehensively refurbished. Compared to other accommodation options in Tbilisi, this hotel loses on location, but nothing else. It is what you would expect from an international business hotel chain. The rooms are pleasantly decorated with wood features and are spacious, with a glass interior wall adding to their airy feel. roominess. The hotel facilities include a business centre, a large health and fitness centre, a massage room, a casino and an outdoor pool. Adjara restaurant on the ground floor serves breakfasts and Georgian or International cuisine during the day. Adjara Casino is next door to the hotel. The Metro station is just a few steps away from the hotel and taxi to the city centre shouldn’t cost more than 5 Lari. WiFi is complimentary throughout the hotel. Prices exclude VAT and breakfast. Q252 rooms (107 standard singles 205US$, 72 standard twins 235US$, 14 business 220US$, 56 executive 250US$, 2 disable 205US$). PZOHAUFLGKXCW hhhh

Sheraton Metechi Palace I-7, Telavi 20, tel. (+995) 32 277 20 20, fax (+995) 32 277 21 20, www.sheratonmetechipalace.com. This was the first international 5 star hotel in Tbilisi and opened in 1989. Its large lobby is the heart of the hotel, as all room doors face balconies, which surround it. There is nothing exceptional about the décor of the rooms, except to say they are comfortable and pleasant. A buffet breakfast is served on the 10th floor with superb views out over the city. The Sheraton Metechi Palace reminds us of those resorts where you can get everything without leaving the hotel. There’s a large business centre, a fitness centre, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, Jacuzzi and sauna. Dining and drinking facilities include two restaurants, Lobby Bar and Pool Bar. Slammers American Bar seems to be the main meeting/eating/drinking spot and it has a seasonal Terrace overlooking Tbilisi old town. Metechi Night Club is open from Thursday to Saturday. We do hope our Tbilisi In Your Pocket guide will help you tear yourself from the hotel and explore this amazing city Q140 rooms (140 Total rooms ). PiHAUFLGBKDXCW hhhhh Radisson Blu Iveria F-4, Rose Revolution Sq. 1, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 240 22 00, fax (+995) 32 240 22 01, [email protected], www. radissonblu.com/hotel-tbilisi. The views are the defining characteristic of this hotel. All the rooms have a view, all through a wall of glass that makes them seem incredibly spacious. The interior décor enhances the feeling of the outside world spilling into your room. Colours are fresh-grass green, white and wood, the bathrooms are separated by a glass wall. The Junior Suits are located at the corners, giving dual aspect, with a raised bathtub looking out over the city. Take a glass-fronted elevator to the 18th floor and watch the city grow beneath you. At the top there is a spa and a bar. The exercise room is in a corner, and must have one of the best views of any hotel gym in the world. The Oxygen Bar is a lounge bar, popular with non-residents, particularly at the weekend. Two glass walls look out over the city, the third separates the bar with the spa’s infinity swimming pool. Back down at ground level is the Surface lounge bar and also access to Filini, an Italian restaurant. Q PZiOHUFLGKDXCW hhhhh Tbilisi Marriott B-1, Rustaveli Ave. 13, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 277 92 00, fax (+995) 32 277 92 10, [email protected], www.tbilisimarriott.com. The standard of a five star international hotel chain is set in the lobby lounge, a huge vaulted room with an ornate ceiling supported by towering Corinthian columns, sumptuous sofas a grand piano spaced around the marble floor. Standard rooms are at the level set by Marriott tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

internationally, whereas the Presidential suit is a cut above even these. Occupied by George W. Bush, Hilary Clinton and numerous movie and music celebrities, it has a four poster bed, a lounge dining room, Jacuzzi and massive terrace with sweeping views of the city. The Parnas restaurant on the ground floor serves a menu of international cuisine with occasional season variations. The adjacent café bar has a separate sofa where smoking is forbidden. Non-residents are welcome at both the restaurant and café bar. There is also a health club with exercise machines, a sauna and a massage room. Prices exclude VAT. Breakfast for non-residents costs 57 Lari. Q127 rooms (2 apartments 1115US$, 60 deluxe 265US$, 25 superior 285US$, 25 executive 315US$, 6 club rooms 345US$, 2 patio suites 515US$, 1 vice-presidential 865US$). PZiJHAUFGKDXW hhhhh

Upmarket #12 Boutique Hotel C-3, V. Beridze 12, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 255 22 12, www.no12hotel. com. On the corner of two narrow streets in the Old Town is a newly renovated building, once a family home now a small hotel of nine rooms. It is fresh and bright, achieved by the creative use of colour details, artificial and natural light. Each of the rooms has a different layout and sizes, though all have a theme reminiscent of a rural home. The largest has a balcony, a sunken bath of ornate tiling and a sofa covered in Georgian fabrics. In the basement is a large breakfast room with a long glass skylight to the courtyard above. There is a communal terrace on the first floor that looks down on the courtyard and also the street corner, a perfect place to sit and watch the gentle pace of life in the Old Town. Q9 rooms (2 singles 198 - 233Hr, 5 doubles 198 - 259Hr, 1 junior suite 278 - 313Hr, 1 suite 349 - 384Hr). PiJAGW Ambasadori C-2, Shavteli 13, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 243 94 94, fax (+995) 32 293 17 40, hotel@ ambasadori.ge, www.ambasadori.ge. The interior is opulent with baroque touches, Chesterfield-style leather sofas and chandeliers adorn the reception and lounge area. The restaurant has large windows on three sides with views across the river towards the President’s Palace. There is a large balcony for summer dining and a small VIP room for private groups of up to ten diners. The menu is Georgian and there is a selection of vegetarian dishes. The wine list includes a label produced specifically for the hotel. On the roof there is a small outside swimming pool with views of Mtawminda mountain and Mamadaviti church on one side and Narikala fortress on the other. The hotel has three conference rooms for varying sizes, with a maximum capacity of 150 people. All three rooms are equipped with audio/visual technology and two with simultaneous translation equipment. Q41 rooms (2 singles 136US$, 22 standards 177US$, 10 doubles 205US$, 3 superiors 220US$, 1 junior suite 270US$, 2 suites 310US$, 1 presidential suite 330US$). PiJHALKDXCW hhhh Betsy’s Hotel A-1, F-5, Makashvili 32-34, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 293 14 04, fax (+995) 32 299 93 11, [email protected], www.betsyshotel.com. One of our two favourite hotels in Tbilisi (the other is Hotel Citadel Narikala). Many hotels profess to be “boutique”, few deserve the creative kudos the title suggests, Betsy’s Hotel does. It has been beautifully designed to provide a sophisticated, yet unpretentious atmosphere. The décor and atmosphere in the bar invites you to settle down for the night, and many people, guests and non-residents do just that. Two huge sofas flank an open fire, low lighting compliments the warm persimmon-orange coloured room. In the room next-door Prospero’s Book Store and Coffeehouse provide a café, with fresh ground coffee and a selection of books. The restaurant serves a set daily menu and is open to non-residents. Its large tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

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Where to stay Editor’s note Whatever type of accommodation you choose around Tbilisi, you can usually expect excellent hospitality. It’s simply the Georgian way. Prices mentioned in the reviews include breakfast i and VAT (18%), unless otherwise stated.

Symbol key P Air-conditioning

L Guarded parking

6 Animal friendly

i Breakfast included

Z Anti-allergy rooms

M Nearest metro station

T Child friendly

X Smoking allowed

H Conference facilities

G Non-smoking rooms

A Credit cards accepted

K Restaurant

J City centre location

D Sauna

F Fitness centre

C Swimming pool

U Facilities for the disabled W Wi-Fi internet access terrace is a particular draw in summer months, with views over the city. All the rooms share that wonderful view and they are all tastefully furnished. Like the rest of the hotel, they are modern and stylish with a quality Georgian accent. Georgian artists adorn the walls throughout with great photography of rural Georgia and original fine art. Q57 rooms (44 regular 145 - 165US$, 13 suites 165 - 185US$). PiHA6U� FLGDXCW hhhh British House E-5, Belinski 32, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 298 87 83, fax (+995) 32 298 29 37, [email protected], www.british-house.ge. The building used to the home to several families and is now run as a hotel. Is ethos is to try and recreate that homely atmosphere and environment. It is in a quiet residential area close to the centre of the city, so it is very intimate and relaxed. There are only eight rooms, each is different and their décor is domestic rather than corporate. Potted plants spread from the small courtyard and around the corridors, giving it the feeling of an indoor garden. Works by Georgian artists are dotted around the walls. There is no restaurant but breakfast is included and served in a room decorated with Georgian artefacts. Q8 rooms (3 singles €90, 4 doubles €110, 1 suite €135). PiAGXW Citadel Narikala D-3, Orpiri 20, MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 32 290 41 41/(+995) 32 290 42 42, fax (+995) 32 290 30 06, [email protected], www.hotel-citadel.ge. One of our two favourite hotels in Tbilisi (the other is Betsy’s Hotel). Built into the very rock under the walls of the Narikala Fortress, this boutique hotel is modern and stylish, yet considerate of its historical site. The reception displays artefacts unearthed during the building’s construction and in each room there is an historical explanation of a century from Georgian history. A glass elevator ascends the rock-face to the upper floors. The rooms are well appointed and have spectacular vistas of the city and the surrounding mountains. Breakfast is included in the room rate. There is a conference facility for up to 60 people. Q16 rooms (2 singles €85, 7 doubles €140 - 160, 7 junior suites €160 - 190). PiAGKW hhhh Citadiness Freedom Square Tbilisi B-2, Freedom Sq. 4, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 254 70 30, fax (+995) 32 254 70 40, [email protected], www. citadines.com. This an Apart’hotel, which essentially means there are apartments rather than rooms, all provided with hotel-style services. There are studios for one or two

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Where to stay people, one-bedroom apartments for up to four guests and two that can accommodate six. Each apartment has a bed, a fully equipped kitchen, a hi-fi system, satellite TV, storage space and a sofa bed. The look is modern and practical with wood and steel furniture and a burnt orange sofa bed. On the top floor is a small gym with glass walls and ceiling giving great views while you exercise. There is also a laundry room with self-service washer driers on a pay-to-use basis. The roof terrace is open-air and has a bar, but is only open in summer. Q66 rooms (34 studio standard 140 - 180US$, 2 studio executive 150 - 190US$, 18 deluxe 168 - 215US$, 6 executive 172 - 220US$, 6 club 218 - 265US$, breakfast 24US$). PJHA6UFLGXW hhh Kopala D-3, Chekhov 8/10, MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 32 277 55 20, fax (+995) 32 277 55 80, hotel@kopala. ge, www.kopala.ge. Kopala is the name of a pre-Christain deity. It has hosted many famous people including Kofi Anan and others. The hotel is divided into three buildings, A, B and, with A housing the most prestigious rooms. The more expensive rooms in A have large picture windows and balconies. The restaurant is open to the public and like the better rooms, commands spectacular views across the Mtkvari River towards the Old Town and the Narikala Fortress. There is a large terrace for summer dining and is arguably one of the most impressive places to eat in a city blessed with stunning views. It has an international menu, though vegetarian options are almost entirely limited to salads. Q65 rooms (44 standards without view €50 - 100, 17 standards with view €70 - 170, 2 triples €100, 2 apartments €200). PiHAFLGXW hhhh Vere Palace E-3, Kuchishvili 22/24, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 225 33 40, fax (+995) 32 222 12 98, [email protected], www.verepalace.com. ge. A four star hotel with a decorative theme borrowed from 18th Century France. The lounge is furnished with armchairs, sofas, side tables and standard lamps and has a sedate air. Some of the furniture in the hotel is antique, some reproduction. The rooms are spacious and they too follow the design style, although they differ in the items of furniture and the colour schemes. On the roof is a small outdoor swimming pool, ideal for summer sunbathing with views of the mountains. On the floor below are a small gym and a sauna. The restaurant serves a menu of European and Georgian food and is a large bright room with a parquet floor, reminiscent of a Regency ballroom. Breakfast optional - 15EUR. Q42 rooms (17 standards from €80, 15 deluxe from €100, 9 suites from €130, 1 executive suite €250). PHAFLGDXCW hhhh

Mid-Range Beaumonde A-1, Al. Chavchavadze 11, MRustaveli,

tel. (+995) 32 292 11 72, fax (+995) 32 299 62 46, [email protected], www.hotelbeaumonde. com. This large former family house is spread over six floors with winding stairs and internal balconies that make it interesting to wander around. One alcove is lined with books and has a large armchair nestling in the corner, in the basement there is a pool table and on the roof, a large terrace. There is no lift, so anyone with mobility issues should request a room on the lower floors. Several of the rooms, particularly those on the upper floors, have sweeping views over the city. Despite being centrally heated, many of the rooms also have their own fireplace, ideal for settling beside with a glass of Georgian wine on a cold winter’s night. The décor is homely and relaxed - the owner’s wife is an artist and the artworks on the walls were either painted or selected by her. Q19 rooms (6 singles 80US$, 8 doubles 100US$, 3 junior suites 120US$, 2 suites 130US$). PiHA6XW hhh

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Istanbul F-2, Agmashenebeli ave. 148, MStation

Square, tel. (+995) 32 291 11 82, fax (+995) 32 291 11 85, [email protected], www.hotelistanbul. ge. A small hotel with 16 rooms on the recently renovated Aghmashenebeli Avenue, one of the main shopping streets in Tbilisi. The name reflects the fact that the area has a Turkish community and a number of restaurants selling good Turkish food. Breakfast is served downstairs in and there is free tea and coffee throughout the day. Some of the rooms face the street. There is a little traffic noise during the day but not excessive. The rooms at the back are quieter. The rooms are neat and tidy. The owners of the hotel also have a restaurant, Genaceale, just down the street where guests get a 10% discount. Q16 rooms (6 singles 75US$, 10 doubles 85US$). PiHALW hhh Old Melekhi D-3, Metekhi Rise 3, MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 32 274 74 04, [email protected], www. oldmetekhi.ge. The building is over two hundred years old and was originally a row of private houses that were converted into a hotel. It is built on the edge of a cliff on the left bank of the Mtkvari River next to the Metekhi church. On the river side of the building are ornate wooden balconies that actually jut out over the water. Although offering spectacular views, venturing out is not a good idea for anyone with vertigo, or for anyone a little drunk. Although not as modern as those in some other hotels, the rooms are spacious and have a Georgian charm. The whole building has the air of an old home of a wealthy family. The rooms overlooking the river have incredible panoramas, yet the ones at the rear are quieter, with no road noise from across the river. Guests breakfast in Old Metekhi Restaurant. Q14 rooms (5 doubles 60 - 70US$, 7 double upper floors 90 - 100US$, 2 apartments 120 - 130US$). PiA6XW hhh

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Villa Mtiebi C-2, Chakhrukhadze 10, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 292 03 40, fax (+995) 32 292 32 47, tbilisi@ hotelmtiebi.ge, www.hotelmtiebi.ge. This small hotel is in a renovated 19th century building in a quiet area of the Old Town. It has only nine rooms, all of which surround a large central courtyard. The rooms are spacious, with wooden furniture and elegant beds with orthopaedic mattresses. A balcony running around the atrium accesses the rooms on the first floor and a translucent roof covers the whole space, so it is light and airy even in the winter. Lots of potted plants add to the feeling of an indoor garden. There is no restaurant, but breakfast is served in the courtyard. There is a small conference room that can accommodate around 20 people. Q9 rooms (4 singles €68, 4 doubles €83, 1 suite €109). PHALW hhh

Guest houses SKAdaVELI C-2, Vertskhli 27, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 595 41 73 33, [email protected], www.ska. ge. As you wander around the Old Town of Tbilisi you see many beautiful ramshackle buildings, family homes for generations, often with semi-hidden courtyards and wooden balconies of faded elegance. SkadaVeli is in one of these charming houses. Staying here is like becoming part of the heart of the community. Through an old door marked with peeling paint, up a flight of drunken wooden stairs is a delight. There are only four rooms, though all are beautifully appointed, with modern yet subtle and elegant wood furniture. Renovation has been very sympathetic and only applied where necessary: the character and history has not been tainted. The wide balcony of bareplanked wood remains untouched and bears its marks of age with dignity. This is our favourite guesthouse in Tbilis. In fact, it is our favourite place to stay. Q4 rooms (1 single 50Lari, 2 doubles 70Lari, 1 deluxe 80Lari). PNW August - October 2013

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Where to stay Restaurants

Restaurants Georgian

Hostels Art Hostel C-3, G. Khandzteli 2, house 4, MLiberty

Square, tel. (+995) 599 15 34 75. Just few steps from Leselidze , the main street of the Old Town, is the small, rather hipster, but welcoming and warm Art Hostel. It is a place where budget backpacker can feel right at home. Decorated and furnished by theatre costume designers it has an aura of stylish, artistic antiquity. The common area is quite large and it has a well equipped kitchen. There are dormitories and a studio room with its own entrance, bathroom, and cooking facilities is available for 2- 4 persons. The owner can arrange jeep tours around Georgia. Q 8-bed dorm 30Lari, 12-bed dorm 25Lari, double 75Lari. PAGW Boombully Rooms and Hostel G-5, Rustaveli Av. 24, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 551 10 01 72, mail@boombully. com, www.boombully.com. Located on Tbilisi the main avenue, Rustaveli ensures that you are in the centre of the action. Right next to the bus stop and only 5 minutes walk to the metro station, this neighbourhood has loads of cafes, restaurants and fancy boutiques. The down side is that it can be noisy. This boutique hostel is famous for its Georgian hospitality, calm atmosphere and cleanness. Rooms are bright and spacious and there are two outside balconies. Q 6-8 bed dorm 36Lari, doubles 85Lari, 3 bed private 170Lari, 4 bed private 215Lari. W Nest Hostel B-3, Paolo Iashvili 23, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 598 16 17 71, nesthosteltbilisi@gmail. com. A charming, laid back party hostel in the atmospheric neighbourhood of Sololaki. Attracts an international crowd. They organize parties quite often. The guys running it own a bar as well, so you can hang out there or go to party instead. Not always the quietest hostel to stay at, obviously. There is a kitchen and free wifi. Insider tip: take the room as far from common area as possible. Q 4-bed dorm 30Lari, 8-10 bed dorm 22Lari, double 70Lari. W

Tbilisi Hostel I-6, Makhati Turn 22, MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 597 70 48 85, www.tbilisihostel.com. This two-storey former house has a garden shaded with vines in the summer and a first-floor balcony with views of Narikala Fortress. It has two speeds; a slow, relaxed hang-out with bean bags and hammocks for lazing during the day and often a loud and lively party place at night, the fun usually hosted by the very friendly staff. There are two bathrooms, each with a shower and toilet, a washing machine and a kitchen. The hostel is located in Avlabari, a quiet residential area with narrow streets and old traditional houses. It is just a few minutes walk from a market, a busy local shopping street and the Metro station. It is about ten minutes walk from the Old Town, across Peace Bridge. Q 4-bed female dorm €13, 8-bed dorm €11, 10-bed dorm €10, double €30. W Why not? Tbilisi B-2, Tabukashvili 15/4, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 599 00 70 30, whynot.tbilisi@gmail. com, www.whynothostels.com. Located in the quiet blind alley, just one minute walk from Rustaveli Av., WN? hostel is friendly and relaxed. The large common area located on the first floor is all about socialising and fun. It is not a party hostel, as their policy is a comfortable night’s sleep is the first priority, but the staff is always willing to have jar (yes they use jars instead of glasses!) of wine, or just play cards and talk. The owners are foreigners, and know exactly what backpackers want. They will be happy to give you all the best tips and practical info about Tbilisi and even more about travelling around Georgia. There is no smoking inside, but there is a balcony and terrace if you want to smoke. They often have barbeques on the terrace in the summer. There are two little kiosk shops just around the corner that are open late into the night and a superb bakery just across the street. Simple breakfast included in the price Q 4-bed dorm €14, 6-bed dorm €12, 8-bed dorm €11, 16-bed dorm €10, double €32. iNGW

Bread House D-3, Gorgasali 7, MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 32 230 30 30, www.mgroup.ge. Traditional Georgian restaurant centred on a large bread oven called a shoti where loaves and other pastry dishes such as khachapuri and lobiani are freshly made and served straight to the table. As well as the speciality breads there are a wide range of Georgian dishes with a good array of low calorie and vegetarian options. The décor is rustic chic – bare brick and dressed-stone walls and floor to ceiling glass. During the summer, table are laid out on the patio as well as inside. Extensive wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. (50 Lari). PAUILEBXSW Sophia Melnykova’s Fantastic Duhan B-1, Stamba Dead End 22, MLiberty Square. This is Georgian restaurant but far, far funkier than most. This is vibrant an expression of young Georgia’s pride in its heritage and traditions but desire to be a strong beat in the general rhythm of Europe. Inside, a single large room, bare plaster walls and a eclectic mix if tables chairs and an old ornate sofa. Outside, a metal frame supports vines, lush with leaves and grapes in the summer, in winter a structure that is enclosed to provide a conservatory. A cool, intelligent crowd eats, drinks, hangs out and listens to chilled vibes. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. PABXSW Gabriadze Café C-2, Shavteli 13, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 298 65 94. Named after the famous Georgian puppeteer Rezo Gabriadze, this light and airy restaurant is decorated with art and ceramics. It is part of the next-door puppet theatre that stages regular performances of Gabriadze’s innovative and moving plays. The menu is Modern Georgian cuisine, putting a new twist on traditional recipes. Speciality dishes include his favourite cornbread bagel with cheese, and meals cooked and served in a shallow pottery pan called a ketsi. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. As a bar open until 02:00. (50 Lari). PA6BXSW new

Grill On Plekhanov D. Agmashenebeli Av. 127, tel.

(+995) 32 243 43 07. Come here hungry. Even better, come really hungry: the portions are a feast! The style of dining follows the ancient Georgian, “chamotarebit” which more or less means “all you can eat”. Amongst the menu options are a good selection of traditional meat dishes, fish, soups and khachapuri, Georgian wines and chacha. There is also a halal menu. The look is modern, with simple white tables and comfortable chairs, light painted walls and a well designed bar with a good selection of drinks. Outside is shaded, quiet terrase. It’s the perfect place for a supra with friends. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. (30 Lari). PTALEGBXW Mirzaani D-3, Gorgasali 1, MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 32 230 89 86, www.mirzaani.ge. A restaurant and serving its own micro-brewed beers and a wide range of traditional Georgian food including khinkali and khachapuri as well as meat and fish dishes. Located underground, in two large bricklined rooms with stone floors and rustic tables, one with an open fireplace. There is also a smaller alcove room for more private alcove seating. One of a chain of five restaurants dotted around the city serving good, affordable Georgian food and beer. Also at Melikishvili 140, Uznadze 41, Tsereteli 140. QOpen 24hrs. (5-16Lari). PXSW

Narikala Hill D-3, Orbiri 20, MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 32

290 41 41, www.hotel-citadel.ge. Full length windows with stunning views over the city, a roof terrace for summer dining nestling under the walls of the Citadel combine to give this restaurant one of the most beautiful settings in the city. The bar, furnishings and cutlery are elegantly retro ‘70s and the rear wall is original 5th Century, part of the house of a healer whose artefacts are on display in the hotel. The menu is GeorgianEuropean fusion and rarely for Tbilisi, it is a non-smoking restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. (40 Lari). PAGBSW

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

Symbol key P Air-conditioning

E Live music

6 Animal friendly

M Nearest station

T Child friendly

G Non-smoking areas

A Credit cards accepted

X Smoking section

U Facilities for the disabled S Take away I Fireplace

B Terrace

L Guarded parking

W Wi-Fi internet access

Editor’s note Although Tbilisi has restaurants offering a wide variety of international cuisine, you MUST try Georgian food. It is delicious and distinctive. Take a look at our food decoding tips on page 30. If you still don’t know what to choose first, start with khinkali. The prices we list in brackets denote either average bill or per person if there is just one number. Sometimes we will also list the cost of the cheapest and most expensive main course on the menu. And once again - check our list for the G symbol if you can’t stand smoke. Unfortunately, most venues in Tbilisi allow smoking and some don’t even have any non-smoking areas! And do remember that 10-15% will be included in the bill as service charge. Enjoy your meal!

August - October 2013

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Restaurants

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Old Metekhi D-3, Metekhi Rise 3, MAvlabari, tel.

(+995) 32 274 74 07. Perched on a cliff above a bend in the Mtkvari River this fine dining restaurant of classical Georgian dishes rather than the more common fare of peasant dishes found elsewhere. It has two rooms, the smaller one with views down into the water and across at Narikala Fortress. It is particularly pretty setting at night when the Fortress and many of the buildings in the Old Town are lit up. There is live music every day, but it is not an imposition, mainly jazz and occasionally a female vocalist but with a quiet and relaxed atmosphere. Best to call and make a reservation. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (40 Lari). PALEBXW Pastoral C-3, Erekli II 6, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 299 90 19/(+995) 592 31 19 19, www.kala.ge. A charmingly decorated restaurant designed to feel like the interior of an idyllic rural family home. It is named after a film shot in the 70s about life in a small Georgian village. On some of the walls hang photographs from the movie and the director’s original story board sketches. The furnishings are mixed, some tables and chairs are rustic, others seemingly from a family drawing room. Outside the picture windows hangs a line of washing. The menu is Mengrelian, a region of western Georgia, which tends to use slightly more spices and has some unique dishes such as khulo salad, Mengrelain kuchmachi and kharcho. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. (30-40Lari). PAXSW Samikitno Machakhela D-3, Meidan Sq., MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 577 71 07 88, www.samikitno.ge. This is a fast-food style restaurant in terms of décor and pricing but serving fresh cooked dishes. Specialising in Georgian cuisine, it has an extensive menu and a long drinks list. There are two large rooms and two summer terraces, one on the first floor balcony with views over the river towards Matekhi church and Avalbari. This is one of a chain, with four restaurants in the city. QOpen 24hrs. (25 Lari). PALBSW

European Café Hemingway L-3, Eristavi 9 (Round Garden), Vake,

tel. (+995) 32 229 50 05, www.gg.ge. This fine dining restaurant specialises in fish and seafood. It is intimate, with only five tables arranged around a semi-circular room. The decorative theme is unsurprisingly maritime. The walls are clad in wood and there are highly polished brass fittings; round mirrors set in portholes, a ship’s clock and a lantern. There is both a European and a Japanese menu, both extensive. The kitchen will also cook plates for a customer’s particular desires. The chef has worked internationally and the fish is imported by air, twice weekly, from Holland, Norway and France. The wine list is a selection of Georgian and international labels and also includes organic wines. Café Hemingway is attached to Grand Gourmet food store. QOpen 24 hrs. (50 Lari). Permanent 10 or 20% discount card after spending 400 Lari. PiTAGSW new

Linville Abesadze 2, tel. (+995) 593 32 22 21. This old

Tbilisian building looks like it is almost falling apart, but it’s one of the traits that make the place special. The stairs go up directly from the front door to a Tbilisi-style windowed veranda. The lighting is low, cast from big, old chandeliers and the music is always chilled. Obviously the designers spent a lot of effort to make you feel like you are in old Tbilisian matriarchal home, but one where Grandma had a distinct sense of a style. Our favourite place to sit is on one of the two small balconies under the shade of the grape vine growing all around. The menu is mixed international; pizza, pasta, steaks, sandwiches and a little hint of Mexican cuisine too. For desert, go for the crepes. You might think it’s a little pricey for a cafe, but the ambience, the decor and the soft instrumental jazz (hard to find around this city), makes it definitely worth it. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAIEBXW

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Restaurants Turkish Cappadocia+ G-3, Agmashenebeli 116, MMarjanishvili, tel. (+995) 32 294 66 94. A canteen style restaurant serving good, dependable Turkish dishes. The cooks are Turkish and the meat is haalal. Even though the food is laid out in display tureens it doesn’t look tired as it some times does in other canteen restaurants. It is freshly prepared each day. The manageress’s favourite is Pide, boat shaped bread trencher filled with cheese, meat and vegetables to your choice. There are plenty of Turkish patrons, which is always a good sign. For a table spend of over 100 Lari you get deserts for free. Tea and bread are also always free. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 10 Lari. PAXSW People’s Bar & Restaurant C-3, G. Tabidze 10, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 298 48 51. A piano lounge restaurant on two floors that also has a large garden terrace offering shaded dining in hot weather. Inside there are two downstairs rooms, one for non-smokers and both furnished with sofas around low tables. Sculptures feature strongly in the décor, which is distinctive: black, white and metal being the dominant colours. The roof is glass, with shades that can be drawn back to give it the feeling of a conservatory. The food is European with a wide selection of seafood. Live piano accompaniment every evening. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. (20-30 Lari). PEBXW

Fastfood & Sandwiches Elvis American Dinner E-4, Melekishvili Ave. 1, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 224 11 55, www.elvisamericandiner.com. No need to tell you what the design theme is. This is a two-story fast food joint loosely styled as a 1950s American diner. Downstairs is non-smoking. They don’t just sell The King’s beloved burgers, they cover nearly all the bases in the fast food game: fish and chips, pizza, sushi, Chinese, pasta, fried chicken, salad, hotdogs, sandwiches, ice cream, cakes, waffles. Not just soft drinks and milkshakes, there is a bar selling the hard stuff too. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PTAVGSW

French Café de France C-3, G. Tabidze 3/5, MLiberty Square,

tel. (+995) 32 299 02 21. A music venue and restaurant, red velvet furnishes, curtains and décor give it the air of a 19th Century Parisian salon, complimenting its name and purpose. A generally international menu, though the occasional dish has a French accent. The music is jazz and blues every evening at 21:00. It mostly features Georgian acts but international artists are also occasionally invited to perform. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00. (50 Lari). PAEBXSW

Fusion Buddha Bar D-2, Rike park, MAvlabari, tel. (+955) 32

229 92 22/(+995) 557 99 92 22, www.buddhabar.ge. One of the international franchise of lounge and restaurants serving sushi and Asian fusion food. Décor is sumptuous, with dark wood bar, wall panelling, tables and chairs, lit by clusters of low-light lamps and walls covered with tapestry hangings. Upstairs in the restaurant, while down a Y-shaped central stairway is the lower-level lounge area. Alcoves for up to twenty diners can be closed off with wooden screens. The drinks list includes sake, Georgian and French wines, as well as spirits and traditional and Buddha-Bar’s own created cocktails. There is a terrace for summer for mixed lounge and dining. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 Lari). PALEBXSW

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August - October 2013

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Restaurants

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Restaurants

Try our specially selected organique and vegeterian high energy food Public Service

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Ben Chelero Café of 7 Tastes 6, Mtkvari Str., Tbilisi, Georgia +995 322 99 90 03

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Baratashvili Bridge

Vegetarian Ben Chelero Café of 7 Tastes C-1, Mtkvari 6, tel.

(+995) 32 299 90 03. A coffee house with a strong commitment to serving good coffee and fresh, healthy food. Chunky wooden furniture downstairs, beanbags and sofa booths upstairs, both with South American touches to the décor, plus a few rather large photographs of the company’s Russian owner. An ideal place for vegetarians as there is plenty of choice on its menu. Soups, salads and fish dishes dominate, together with a selection of Latin American dishes. There is no meat on the menu. They serve their own label Georgian wine. Upstairs is non-smoking. Low key and relaxing. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PAGBSW

International new

11/11 Galaktion Tabidze 11. Its name comes from its

address: the corner of Tabidze 11 and Lermontov 11. The interior has a calm, light and homely feel. The different international flavours on the menu are reflected around the room, with American, French and Italian touches to the décor. There is seating for 35 people inside and 45 outside. The food selection includes gourmet burgers, pasta, soups and a wide selection of salads. The bar boasts a fine selection of whiskeys. Q (50 Lari). PABXW Café Flowers D-2, D. Megreli 1, MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 32 274 75 11. This is a terrace café in a garden on the edge of the cliff at Avlabari above the cable car station. There are panoramic views over the river to the Old City, of Narikala Fortress and to the west over Tbilisi. Be careful not drop valuables off the edge - it’s a long fall. The menu has a mix of Georgian and international dishes including soups, salads, pizza, shashlik and khachapuri. There is a covered conservatory and inside seating. It also has a florist so a good place to meet your date, especially if you forgot a gift. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (30 Lari). PALBXSW DownTown C-3, G. Tabidze 7, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 292 30 88, www.downtown.ge. The menu in English, and even has pictures to make it even easier to choose what you want to eat. The choice is extensive and is widely international. There are soups, salads, steaks, pasta, sandwiches, burgers and pizza, fish, meat and vegetarian dishes. Drinks range from milkshakes and juices to cocktails, wine, beer and spirits. There should be something to suit everyone even in a particularly picky group. Frequented by Georgians and international visitors alike. Outside seating during the summer. QOpen 08:30 - 04:00. PTABXSW

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

new

Funicular Complex Mtatsminda plateau, tel. (+995)

32 298 00 00, www.funicular.ge. Legendary restaurant on top of the mountain Mtatsminda, right underneath the television mast, is now open for visitors again. Built in 1905, renovated in 1938 and functioning as a restaurant until the collapse of the Soviet Union it has been closed for several years. The subject of wistful nostalgia by many Tbilisians and a superb location for panoramic city views it should prove a popular place with both locals and tourists. Every floor faces the city with verandas to gaze from. There are various cafes and restaurants to choose from. The most prestigious is Funicular. Up to 250 dinners can be accommodated at tables or on leather sofas in a sumptuous setting. Lounge Bar next to the restaurant is decorated with Georgian art on the walls and with a unique chandelier as its centre point. There is a veranda and also a private dining and supra area for small intimate gatherings or groups of up to 50 people. The menu has a selection of European and Georgian dishes. An experienced sommelier is available to guide you through the wine list and help you choose the perfect bottle to accompany your meal. Despite all that it offers, the highlight of Funicular has to be its views - stunning night or day. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PTALEGBXSW Kala Café C-2, Erekle II 8/10, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 592 79 97 97, www.kala.ge. A jazz café bar serving a mix of European and Georgian dishes ranging from English breakfast to khachapuri and many points in between, including soups, salads, fish and meat dishes; some distinctly local, others of a more international flavour. There is also a smattering of vegetarian options. Kala has a relaxed atmosphere enhanced by the live classical jazz played every day between 21:00 and 23:00. Every Monday, the Director of the Tbilisi Conservatory performs. Outside seating is covered with an awning during the winter and spills into the street in summer. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (25-40Lari). PTLEBSW Organique Josper Bar C-3, Bambis Rigi 12, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 593 73 50 83, www.restorganique. com. Sometimes people get things just right. Organique has been designed with care and flair and shows a great understanding of balance. It is harmonious in so many ways; the use of wood for furniture and furnishings, lighting that is soft and warm, food that is delicious and healthy. As the name suggests, made as far as possible with organic ingredients, with meat and fish dishes cooked in the josper, (pronounced hosper) a unique super-hot charcoal grill that seals in flavours. From a small entrance it climbs through different levels, growing in size until at the top the space is surprisingly large. Design touches throughout are imaginative yet simple. Oh, and only two tables for smokers. Bliss. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (40 Lari). PTA6GBXSW

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Italian Buffet K-3, Abashidze 29, tel. (+995) 32 220 20 80. A

contemporary take on the kind of place where you could imagine Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack boys hanging out, languishingly eating linguini. Well, there’s no linguini on the menu, but it is otherwise comprehensively Italian. The chef worked in Italy for many years and she is passionate about her recipes. She uses a mix of high quality local produce and key ingredients imported from Italy. Dark navy table cloths, blue and white gingham arm chairs, funky felt lampshades, and a wall of wine bottles with generic white labels provide an understated and stylish air. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 40 - 50 Lari. PALGBXSW Pomodorissimo Café K-2, Chavchavadze 33, tel. (+995) 32 260 15 15, www.pomodorissimo.ge. The first thing you can notice from the outside is a sign, “Steak House”, well they serve nice steaks and barbeque dishes, but great pizza is what drives this place. Downstairs it is like a small Italian cafe, with red and white-checkered tablecloths, wooden floors, exposed brickwork and a classic wood-fired oven in the corner. It take a while that actually it is two floors restaurant. Upstairs is bigger, with a more modern look and a bar. The kitchens are open so you can watch the activity and care that goes into making your food. QOpen 11:00 22:00. PAXSW

Mediterranean Art-Café 144 Stairs C-3, upstairs from Betelemi 27,

MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 599 72 09 06. This gallery cafe does not shy away from the effort needed to reach it. Clinging to the side of the hill under the walls of Narikala Fortress, it is a steep walk to reach. Once here, the views, even in a city where views are plentiful, are special. Part café part gallery, the owner is an art curator, so all the works are carefully chosen, with a joint emphasis on young Georgian artists and a renowned group of artists “Generation of 90s”. The menu is a mix of Mediterranean dishes; the Caesar salad comes particularly recommended. Their terrace is the focus of dining in the summer months when the art and food faces stiff competition from the mesmeric sight of the city below. Live lounge music or gentle Jazz every Friday from Spring to Autumn. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. (6-15 Lari). A6EGBXSW

Oriental China Town C-3, Leselidze (Kote Abkhazi) 44, tel.

(+995) 32 243 93 08. A Chinese restaurant with a splendid décor of mirrored pillars, tiled floors, paper lanterns and lacquer screens. Many tables are marble-topped with integral central hot pot, others are circular with revolving tops. Downstairs is a less formal dining area with wicker sofas and low tables. There is a third VIP area for private bookings that can be hired at an additional cost. The menu is Szechuan with pork, chicken, beef, tofu, fish dishes and also a selection of sushi, sashimi and rolls. Monday to Friday there is a discounted set lunch menu. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (25 Lari). PTAUBXSW Kyoto B-1, Rustaveli Ave. 16, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 292 00 11, www.kyoto.ge. This Japanese restaurant offers a menu of sushi, sashimi, rolls, tataki and miso as well as a range of hot options including teriyaki and other Japanese dishes. The chef is Georgian but studied under a Japanese sushi master. Lunch options are served in bento boxes, available from midday to 17:00. Seating downstairs is formal, at table and chairs whereas upstairs is more relaxed, with large sofas divided by Japanese screens. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 Lari). PAGXSW

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Cooking School Culinarium - Cooking School Lermontovis 1/27

(Near Gudiashvili Sq), tel. (+995) 322 43 01 03, www. culinarium.ge. Culinarium, Georgia’s first and only cooking school is run by a legend of the Georgian culinary scene, Tekuna Gachechiladze. Tekuna is lauded as the inventor of Georgian fusion cuisine and is a passionate and innovative chef. During the week it runs cookery courses, usually for groups for minimum six people, but individual tuition is available. The classes are friendly and informative, held in a room infused with the scent of fresh ingredients. At the weekend it opens its doors as a restaurant. On Fridays meals are served at the chief’s table. There is no menu, you need to just trust the chef’s choice, but there is a choice of dishes and the food will be delicious. Reservations should be made at least a day in advance. Contact Culinarium on Facebook or call to book a class or reserve a table. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80-90 Lari). PALGXS

Cigars Cigar House L-3, Abashidze 20, tel. (+995) 790 98

95 79. A shop and cigar bar. Their humidor is packed with predominantly Cuban cigars - only the Davidoff collection is Dominican. They have thirty names including Cohiba, Monte Christo, Hoyo de Monterrey, Trinidad, Rome Y Julieta, and all are represented in strength. Even if you are particularly picky, the chances are they will have your favourite stogie. Saying that, they had run out of our favourite - a Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure No. 4. The bar manager’s personal choice? A Cohiba Behike. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PAXW

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Restaurants Restaurants Ultimate experience This is a short list of those rare and distinct places that somehow give an insight to a city’s soul. They are not glamorous, in any way, but they are real. They are taste of a Tbilisi that is quickly changing and may not be here for much longer. Though they aren’t for the faint hearted. House of Khinkali F-4, Rustaveli Av. 37, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 893 75 66 71. This huge post-soviet style restaurant is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Recently renovated, so sadly lacking its former kitsch glory, it is now more minimalist, with wood-clad walls and white ceilings. The main room is a huge underground space filled with massive booths and 8-seat semi-circular sofas and round tables. This restaurant is highly social and ideal for a night out with a group of friends. It has live music and even a dance floor, so it is not a quiet venue, on a weekend you might even have to wait for a table. As the name suggests, people come here for khinkali, but there are other Georgian dishes on the menu too. QOpen 24hrs. PAX Racha C-3, Sh. Dadiani 20, MLiberty Square. It doesn’t look much from the outside. In fact, it doesn’t look much from the inside either, but the food in Racha and the experience it offers makes it worth the visit. Down and few steps is a large arched cellar lined with long dining tables and stools and a kitchen to the right. The carpet is dirty and threadbare, but see that as testament to the hoards of working Georgians who have been fed here over the years. The clientele will all be locals and it is often busy. None of the staff speak English, so practice the names of Georgian dishes before you order. The mtsvadi is great and the abkhazura is also an interesting dish, as long as you aren’t vegetarian. Q NX Sulphur Baths on Kiev street G-4, Kiev 4, MMarjanishvili. Old and neglected, but the cheapest private baths rooms in the city. The rooms are suitable for two or three people and cost only 10 Lari. The staff are usually surely, most of them chain smoke and none speak English. Underground discos F-4, Rose Revolution Sq., MRustaveli. Located under the Rose Revolution Square is a sleazy subterranean network of nightclubs and bars. This nocturnal world feels like it is straight out of zombie apocalypse B movie. Foreigners are exceedingly rare visitors, though for that reason, they can be rather welcome. If you venture in, you do so at your own risk. Keep your wits about you and not recommended for women, especially alone. QOpen 24hrs. Vakhtanguri I-6, MAvlabari. There’s not much on the menu – khinkali, shashlik, kebab and cheburek in meat, cheese or mushroom flavours. Beer on tap and vodka by the shot. The tables have no seats, they are high so you stand and eat. This is an authentic local’s old-school eating place, but the food is good the experience is certainly unusual. Q NX Wine Shop B-3, Amagleba 8/41, MLiberty Square. A tiny cellar down a few steps from the street is the ultimate place to sample home made wines, chacha and brandy. Stored in random plastic bottles and sold by a lovely old man who is happy to give you generous samples before you buy and regale you with the stories behind each vintage. He speaks Georgian and Russian, so to get the full experience, take a translator. Look for the sign вино, it means “wine” written in Russian.

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Cafés Mandari J-2, Mosashvili 11, tel. (+995) 32 220 20 80. Elegance best describes the ambience. There was a conscious theme in mind for the design of this fine dining restaurant, the idea was to reflect Tbilisi high-culture in the 1920s and it close bond with Europe. This has been achieved beautifully. In the main room, dark velvet chairs, burnt orange sofas, a mini-grand piano, heavy, embroidered tablecloths, black walls and stripped wood floors. A second large room contrasts the first: white walls, a reproduction Pirosmani painting and a huge mirrored table. The menu is described as “Georgian fusion”, a blend of traditional Georgian, European and Asia cuisine. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. 60 - 70 Lari. PAULGBXSW Taj Mahal C-3, Leselidze (Kote Abkhazi) 42, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 272 30 33/(+995) 555 78 67 86, www.tajmahal.ge. One of only two restaurants serving Indian food in Tbilisi and serving mainly northern Indian cuisine, this is a small and simple canteen-style establishment with just five tables. The staff and chef are Indian and they cook using spices imported from India. The menu is extensive and includes a fair number of vegetarian options as well as fish, beef, chicken and mutton dishes. It also provides a free delivery take away service throughout Tbilisi for bills of 80 Lari or above. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (8-20 Lari). PAXSW Thai K-2, Abashidze 35, tel. (+995) 32 222 17 79. This was the first Thai restaurant in Georgia. A parquet floor, wooden chairs and table-tops, small sofas upholstered in subtle Thai fabrics and low-light lanterns, combine to give it a calm and regal air. The chef is Thai and many of the dishes on the extensive menu are his own creations or adaptations. The kitchen is at the rear of the room and has a glass wall so you can watch his frenetic cooking; food tossed high from woks, flames shooting up from the stove, a captivating counterpoint to the chilled atmosphere of the dinning room. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. 25 Lari. PALBXSW

Drink Coffee & Read Prospero’s Books & Caliban’s Coffee Shop B-1,

Rustaveli Av. 34, tel. (+995) 32 292 35 92, www. prosperosbookshop.com. A bookshop and café, perfect for sitting, sipping and reading. Most tables have an electricity socket and there is free WiFi so it’s ideal for working on your laptop, flicking through Facebook or emailing home. The bookshop sells titles in English and Georgian, including a lot of books in English about Georgia, its culture and the Caucasus. They also sell CDs of Georgian traditional music. The café serves freshly ground coffee and has a wide selection of teas. There is a fireplace inside for the winter and a terrace for summer basking. Also at Makashvili 32-34 (Betsy's Hotel). QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. PTAIGBW

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new

Althaus Tea Room Kiacheli 4/1, tel. (+995) 32 218 23

18, www.althaustea.ge. You hardly ever find places in Tbilisi where they know how to make and serve tea properly, so this place is paradise for tea lovers. The tea is from just one brand, the German company Althaus, but it has been harvested from all over the world. The heady aroma of different teas washes over you as soon as you enter. The building is an old high-ceiling apartment with one room that is non-smoking and a veranda with views over the square. There are around 80 types of tea on the menu and each can be sampled to help you decide which brew is best for you. Summer-time specialities are ice-teas, which are also offered with added alcohol to make wonderful teacocktails. Don’t leave without trying the “Orbeliani’s Candies”, a secret family recipe for a magical combination of walnuts with caramel. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PA6EGBXSW Biscuit Snack K-2, Mosashvili 1, tel. (+995) 32 214 73 35, www.biscuit.ge. The perfect place for anytime snacking, it is open 24 hours and offers two pit stop options, one sweet the other savoury. Inside is a patisserie with small tables, serving coffee, cakes and croissants. Outside is a booth where you can get burgers, hotdogs, sandwiches, waffles and other hunger-busters. QOpen 24hrs. PAS Café Gallery Konka Station C-3, Sioni 8, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 218 28 06. Named because of the old renovated tram parked outside, this is a café bar with inside seating in two rooms and a large wooden deck used during the summer. Live music usually twice a week. The food served includes pizza, omelettes, dips, pasta and sandwiches. It also sells jewellery, hand made by a local designer. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PA6EBXSW Crêperie Corner K-2, Mosashvili 1, tel. (+995) 32 229 06 34. For a refreshing change from the usual Georgian grab-a-bite option of khachapuri this take away booth makes crepes to order, either savoury or sweet. They also sell soups, salads and baguettes and soft drinks. In the winter they list their alcohol band and sell Glintwine, hot, spiced wine. Thoughtfully, they offer special jam in their crepes for diabetics. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. S Entrée B-1, Rustaveli Ave. 20, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 591 19 83 98, www.entree.ge. As a good a patisserie as you are likely to find this far from France. French experts trained all the bakers and chefs working at Entrée. The range and quality of croissants, tartelettes and confectionaries is respectable enough to grace a Parisian patisserie. Fresh soup, salads, baguettes, wraps and hot pastries, all for eating in or take away. All six locations in the chain are smoke and alcohol free. Also at Taktakishvili 13, Petriashvili 19, Pekini 7, Chavchavadze Ave. 78, Agmashenebeli Ave. 86. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PiAGSW Literaturuli Café M-3, Tarkhnishvili 2, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 222 51 33. A café that also sells books, mainly Georgian, but also a few titles in English too. Feels like a 1960s family kitchen with its décor, and furnishings, black and white chequered floor tiles and freshly-made cakes stacked under Perspex cake domes. Even more cakes, tarts and strudels sit in a revolving display cabinet. Tea, coffee and desert are the main purpose of Literaturuli, but they also serve alcohol and a selection of snacks. Sadly, like so many other places in Tbilisi its atmosphere is marred by cigarette smoke. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAXSW Luca Polare C-3, Leselidze 34, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 574 77 28 11, www.lucapolare.com. This small icecream shop squeezed into an old building on Lesselidze street is a family-run business owned by German-Georgian couple. They usually have around 26 flavours and whichever you choose it will be the best ice-cream you’ll find in Tbilisi. If you are dining out in the Old Town, skip desert at the restaurant and have an

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17, V.Gorgasali st., TBILISI tel: +995 32 275 02 07 ice-cream instead. Oh, and their café and cakes are good too. The only downside is the place is small and often crowded. They have a bigger shop in Vake at the Round Garden and Pekini St. 7A - there are three branches in total. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. 08:00 - 01:00 from November until April. PTGS new

Monsieur Jordan V.Gorgasali 17, tel. (+995) 32 275 02

07, www.cafe.akhundovhouse.ge. Café Monsieur Jordan is a small but very classy literature café that recently opened in one of the oldest parts of town. It has a brightly coloured interior with delicate antique wooden furniture and fresh flowers on the tables. The accent is French and the atmosphere calm, with relaxing instrumentals and old Gallic chansons playing in the background. Equally appropriate for business, romantic or literary liaisons. The cafe is located in Akhundov House, former home of the founder of Azerbaijani drama, M.F. Akhundzade, which now also houses a museum and gallery. Rather strangely, a life-sized wax figure of the writer sits in one corner of the cafe. The food selection includes cream soups, salads and crepes, while the wine list features French wines and Champagne - so rare on the Georgian restaurant scene. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00 PAXGESW Moulin Electrique C-3, Leselidze 28, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 551 72 23 23. Intelligently creative décor mark this café out as a real gem. Check out the fireplace and see what we mean. Other lovely touches include the tables with painted on place settings, the chunky old teapots and the fact that nearly all the tables and chairs are different. It has a generally funky, laid-back vide enhanced by chilled-out tunes played at a volume to compliment and not compete with conversation. Salads, sandwiches, soups, a range of international main dishes and deserts are all on the menu, as is a comprehensive drinks list. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PJABXW

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Nightlife the menu DECODING

Badrijani Georgians are proud of their national cuisine, and rightly so. There are many distinct dishes, with regional variations. Meat, pastries, dumplings, stews and vegetarian dishes are all represented, though fish features only lightly. Georgian food isn’t hot and spicy, but it is certainly flavoursome. Walnuts, pomegranates and garlic, cheese, beans, aubergine, spinach and plums are all used to devastating effect. In the summer, fresh coriander is used extensively, so this could cut down your options if you don’t like it. The soils of Georgia are very rich and the fresh fruit and vegetables they produce are flavour bombs. Sink your teeth into peaches or plums and the taste explodes. Oh, and the grapes…. One of the main reasons Georgian food is so good is because of these amazing ingredients, much of which is produced by small farmers and sold straight to you at the local fruit and veg market. Just buying some bread, tomatoes and fruit here will be a stunning meal. There are many restaurants specialising in Georgian foods in Tbilisi, they vary in quality, of course, but most are good. They wouldn’t last long if they weren’t as Georgians are discerning eaters when it comes to national cuisine. However, if you can, get yourself invited to eat at a Georgian home, that is where the really great food is cooked. These are some of the most popular Georgian dishes:

Soup & Meat Abhazura Originally from Abkhazia. Spicy meat ball made of mince pork and beef mixed with pieces of pomegranate. Deep fried and sometimes served on French fries. Chkmeruli (or tsitsila chkmerulad) Fried chicken served in a clay dish, dipped in a strong garlic-based sauce. Chikhirtma Chicken soup thickened with egg, and served with large portion of chicken, usually breast meat. Kharcho Beef soup with herbs and rice.

Nightlife

Kubdari Meat pie originally from Svanetia region. Try it with a little satsabeli, a sauce made of tomatoes and sweet pepper. Meat khinkali Dumplings filled with meat (the most popular option). There is special way of eating khinkali. The dumpling has bullion inside so you should grab it by it’s pinched top, bite a small hole near the base, suck out the delicious juice and then eat the rest. Any Georgians eating with you will be impressed, especially if you don’t loose a drop of juice onto your plate. Mtsvadi Marinated pieces of pork meat grilled over a wood fire. Perfect with satsebeli sauce. Ojakhuri Grilled meat, fried potatoes onion and garlic. Usually served on clay plate (ketsi) Ostri Tomato and beef spicy stew. Try it with a dry red wine and some bread. Tkemali Sweet and sour sauce made of tart plums. Goes perfectly with roasted meat.

Khachapuri

Vegetarian Badrijani Fried slices of aubergine usually toped with a rich walnut paste. Khachapuri Cheese pie, the most popular snack, which you can find almost everywhere. There is also a Megrelian version with two layers of cheese, and an Adjarian one that is spindle shaped with raw egg on top. Lobio A thick stew made from crushed red beans served in a clay pot. Pkhali Spinach or beetroot mixed with walnut sauce and sweet peppers or eggplants stuffed with walnuts. Puri Georgian spindle shaped bread made in unique oven. Visiting a traditional bakery is a must. Vegeterian khinkali Dumplings filled with mushrooms (sokos khinkali), potatoes (kartopili khinkali),cheese (kvelis khinkali). Lobiani Pastry filled with bean paste. Matsoni Thin sour yogurt. Try it with crushed walnuts and fresh honey – everything in life should taste this good!

Sweets

Chkmeruli

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

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Churchkhela nicknamed “georgian snickers”. String of nuts covered with dry grape syrup. Often found in fruit markets or fruit shops. When buying, pay attention to the texture. A good one should be springy rather than hard. Chiri All the different types of dried fruits. Gozinaki A special traditional New Year desert made with walnuts and honey. Pelamushi “Georgian jelly” grape juice and flour based sweet stew.

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Tbilisi, 37 Kostava st. Tel.: +995 579 101 000

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August - October 2013

Nightlife

Nightlife Bars & Pubs Acid Bar B-2, Leonidze 9/1, MLiberty Square, tel.

communism is a party! LET’s Rock! CCCP BAR kiacheli 28, tbilisi (+995) 558 55 08 88

The Hangar Tbilisi’s Irish Pub 20 Shavteli Street

Home of All Major Sporting Events Including Rugby & Premiership Football Live Music Wednesday - Sunday @ 21:00 Business Lunch Monday - Friday 12:00 - 15:00 10 Lari

www.thehangar.biz 2 93 10 80 Tbilisi In Your Pocket

(+995) 592 22 11 31, www.kala.ge. A cool venue, day or night, set in a single large room with a wooden mezzanine running around three sides. Creatively decorated, with old books forming the screen of the balcony, old mirrors, lampshades, chairs and tables and a continuous bench sofa on two walls. Upstairs are little low booths with tables, and in the far corner, overlooking the entrance is a tucked-away alcove. Random pictures from the pages of magazines, flyers and photos are posted all around, giving the feel of a design studio’s style board. The menu is international and Georgian dishes plus burgers, pizzas and sandwiches. Also at Al. Kazbegi Ave. 3A, Abashidze 37. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PA6BXSW Bar Laboratorium Betlemi 13, tel. (+995) 599 61 76 15. As a new tendency, new best hipster hangouts of the city are trying to hide from the curious eye. If you want to visit Laboratorium, better somebody take you there - up the tangled streets of old town. With almost no sign from the outside, and a little secret door entrance Bar is a shelter for mostly youngsters. Three storied little place has a decent area for dancing on the first level and seats with only red light on. But its best highlight is a small veranda with a wonderful view over the old town. If you are looking for a night hang out with a company of friends here there is a choice between loud downstairs and relatively quite spot on the roof. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. PX Canudos Ethnic Bar F-4, Samaia Sq., MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 598 16 17 71. Simple tables and chairs, bare wood floors and a bar. This is a place without pretention. It is a place to party. Tibetan prayer flags hint at a hippy heart and the clientele is a mix of backpackers, students and locals with an international outlook. All staff speak English. The place comes into its own in the summer when the people spill outside onto the large forecourt to sit around the old fountain and statue. It also has many themed nights; IQ games, movie showings and live music. QOpen 18:00 - 2:00. PAXW CCCP F-4, Kiacheli 28, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 558 55 08 88. As the name suggests, a Soviet themed café bar decorated with the flags of former Soviet Republics, period photographs, propaganda posters and memorabilia. There are two small rooms; tables and chairs in the front one, big black sofas in the back. Food includes salads, soups meat and fish dishes and bar snacks. There is karaoke every night in the back room and live bands on Fridays and Saturdays - book a table if you want a seat at the weekend. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. PAXW Dive Bar corner of Mari Brose and Laghidze, tel. (+995) 599 09 36 14. Relatively new informal bar in Tbilisi is run by couple of expats from US is at the moment one of the most popular hang outs for younger expats in the country as well as for some hipster Georgian youth or simply artsy alcoholics. The bar is in the very center of the town, not that easy to notice though - have to follow the street next to Opera House on Rustaveli Ave. down till the end and there it is in the left corner. Dive was the first to initiate Beer-ponk table in Tbilisi which occupies whole separate area in the bar. Just a few tables and low seats inside, couple wooden boxes to sit on outside, draft beer from a small brewery - not better or worse than any other Georgian draft beer anywhere else and of course chacha. But the place would be best prominent for selling Polish Vodka Żołądkowa Gorzka. Not everybody can offer that booze in the city. QOpen 17:00 – 05:00. PAXW Dublin Irish Pub F-4, Perovskaya (Akhvlediani) 8, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 298 44 67. We don’t know when the law was introduced, but it seems every city in the world has to have at least one Irish themed pub. This is one of Tbilisi’s. Wood floors, wood tables and benches, photographs of smiling drunk customers and old Guinness posters on the walls, flags, signed football shirts and a big screen TV. Yes,

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it’s exactly the same as all the rest, but at least you know what you are getting. This one also has live rock music every night and a menu that mixes up the genre by offering mainly Georgian food rather than the usual international bar meals. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PA6IEXSW KGB C-2, Irakli II 10/8, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 298 50 13/(+995) 592 67 44 88, www.kala.ge. Unsurprisingly, this funky little bar is decked-out in an array of Soviet-ear paraphernalia and propaganda. During the winter, an awning covers the outside seating. In the summer it is removed so the seating spread out onto the pedestrianised street to mingle with all the other tables set out by bars and restaurants along this sociable strip. KGB has a comprehensive list of spirits, bottled and draught beer, a selection of cocktails and a good choice of Georgian wines. It also serves a menu including sandwiches, omelettes and salads. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PABXW Leffe D-3, Shardeni 14, tel. (+995) 32 243 93 03, www. leffe.com. A Belgian brassiere that takes its décor theme from the beer it is named after. Not surprisingly, beef steak with frites feature on the menu, but so do pork steaks, salmon and chicken dishes. There are also a range of pizza and pasta dishes, salads and soups. Outside seating available during the summer. The bar offers a huge range of Leffe beers, as well as cocktails and spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAEBXSW Naxvamdis C-2, Erekle II 7, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 558 96 95 00. A stealth bar, hidden from the street: just a green door with the smiling face of Apollo on it. Press the buzzer and they’ll let you in. On the first floor is an open-plan room with a kitchen, bar, tables and subdued lighting made from upturned tin buckets and coloured paper coned around bulbs. The menu is limited in length but imaginative in flavour, mainly a fusion of Georgian, Ukrainian and European influences. The atmosphere is intimate and the crowd young and arty. There is also a double bedroom upstairs with its own bathroom that they will rent out, if they like you. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAEXSW

Sky Bar D-3, Metekhi 37, MAvlabari, tel. (+995) 592

32 32 32. There are so many places with stunning views in this city, and Sky Bar is one of them. The top floor of an office block has been given over to a lounge bar with a floor to ceiling windows running around three sides and a wide balcony facing the most impressive view with a panorama sweeping from Narikala Fortress to the left right around to Sameba Cathedral on the right. Inside there is a formal dining area, a bar and soft sofa seating. The menu is international. City Club is located in the same building. QOpen 13:00 - 06:00. PBXW The Hangar Bar C-2, Shavteli 20, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 293 10 80, www.thehangar.biz. This is an Irish themed bar, popular with ex-pats and locals alike. It shows international rugby and football matches on its big screen, as well as key club games and other major sporting events. Guinness, international and local beers on tap. The menu is a comprehensive list of Irish, British, American and Italian dishes with daily specials. It hosts party nights for St. Patrick’s Day and Halloween and a pool party in the summer. There is a non-smoking room upstairs and outside seating in the summer. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PA6GBXSW

Clubs Café Gallery F-5, Rustaveli Av. 48, tel. (+995) 32 299 57

47, www.artists.ge. Like the name suggests, Café Gallery is part venue, part art space. The main room is big and airy with windows all around and regularly changing artwork on the walls, showcasing Georgian and regional artists. All the works are for sale. A café during the day, it becomes a bar in the evening and on Thursdays to Sundays after midnight, it morphs again into a nightclub until 09:00 with sets from local and international DJs. On Tuesdays there are Tango nights with lessons from professional dancers. There is outside terrace for summer and an upper room that is non-smoking. QOpen 24hrs. PA6IEGBXW

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For 1 person Tbilisi, 2 Elbakidze str. Tel.: +995 571 400 809 / 579 101 000

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What to see

Nightlife Tbilisi sits in a river valley, surrounded by hills and mountains. There are so many beautiful views of the city, each time you see a new one you think it might just be better than the last. Narikala Fortress and Mother Georgia, Mtatsminda Mountain and from Metakhi Church, all have stunning vistas. Taking the cable car or funicular up, or just walk, and you will be rewarded with a panoramic perspective that also provides fantastic way to orientate yourself. There are many sights in the city and we have listed many of them for you, but one of the best ways to appreciate Tbilisi is just to wander its streets, particularly in the Old Town and Avlabari. Move away from arguably over-renovated areas and into the warren of backstreets. The buildings may be ramshackle and tired, but they are beautiful and real. This is Tbilisi’s heart and soul. Get yourself lost here for a while.

Essential Tbilisi Even if you have only one day in Tbilisi, this is our must-see list of city sights.

Divan G. Tabidze 3/5, MC-3, tel. (+995) 599 01 88 84,

www.divan.ge. Stylish and thoughtfully put together, Divan incorporates three different nights out in one. Off the street is a large, brightly lit room with oversized bookshelves, two sofa booths and lots of café tables and chairs. Upstairs the vibe changes completely; dark and sensual, it is a perfect chill-out lounge, beanbags and design-icon internally lit tables and music to suit the vide that doesn’t kill conversation but does facilitate flirting. Downstairs the tempo ratchets up to loud and pumping with a top-draw sound system servicing both DJs and bands – rock or jazz is the usual live flavour, house and dubstep when the discs are spinning. Oh, all that and they even serve good food. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PA6EBXW Mtkvarze Agladze 2, MTsereteli, tel. (+995) 599 19 33 44. Night Club Mtkvarze - which means on the river Mtkvari, is located in the building of former fish restaurant, quite famous in the town during 1950’s. Within two months after opening it won Best Venue at the Georgian electronic music awards. Mtkvarze usually operates with two rooms, one oval shaped with windows from floor to high ceiling and second, smaller and darker with different music playing. Best DJs in the city performing here every weekend. Mtkvatze is a little bit further from the center, but takes just couple of lari by taxi and if you’re really on a dance mode we think place is quite danceable. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 10:00. PAXW Unique C-3, Bambis Rigi 8, tel. (+995) 577 66 20 28. The long bar dominates the room, a good feature for a nightclub as it cuts down on the waiting time for a refill. The music is a mixed bag – two DJs plays sets each night with sounds from pop to house, deep house and progressive. There is a VIP area with sofas, its own toilet and entrance. You can order food while in the club from the restaurant downstairs. The entrance fee is 20Lari and covers you for the same value of drink at the bar. Only men pay.

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Women come in free, but they don’t get a free drink. Entrance to the lounge terrace bar is open, though subject to “face control”. The lounge also has an exclusive VIP rooftop terrace for private parties. The club age restriction is 19 for women and 21 for men. It’s mainly an under 35 crowd. No sports clothing. No trainers. Table seating only by reservation, 200-300Lari minimum spend over the bar or on food. VIP access 500Lari minimum spend. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00. PALXW

Casinos Adjara M-1, 26th May Sq. 1, MTechnical University, tel.

(+995) 32 233 55 19, www.adjaracasino.com. Ajara is right next door to Holiday Inn hotel. There is a gaming area next to the reception with lots of slot machines. Beyond the reception is the main gaming area and the entrance to Club Prive, an exclusive high limit lounge with two gaming rooms. On the first floor there is a bar and the Pocker Club, where daily tournaments are held, starting at 19:00. Registration isn’t required. QOpen 24hrs. POLKXW Iveria F-4, Rose Revolution Sq. 1, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 240 22 45, www.casinoiveria.com. Attached to the Radisson BLU Iveria Hotel, this casino provides a wide range of games and slot machines. Iveria features four tables of Black Jack, 19 tables of various kinds of Poker and 8 roulette tables. Playing chips can be purchased by cash or credit card. There is a bar with an extensive range of drinks and a buffet serving European and Georgian dishes. QOpen 24hrs. POLKXW Shangri La C-2, Bridge of Peace, tel. (+995) 32 220 07 01. The casino is on two floors with a slot machine room adjacent to the entrance that is general access. Upstairs is the casino proper. Registration is required and can be achieved on production of a passport. The main floor has Roulette and card tables for a variety of games including Punto Banco, Blackjack and various incarnations of Poker. QOpen 24hrs. PALXW

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Aerial Cable Car D-3. Opened in 2012, a cable car connects Rike Park on the left bank of the Mtkvari river with Narikala Fortress. For only one Lari you can kill two birds with one stone - gaze at the fantastic 360˚ views of the city from the large windows of the car and have an easy ride to the top of the hill. The ride only takes a couple of minutes, which is to our only moan, because with such beautiful views to take in, the trip goes far too fast. We really hope that the officials in charge of the cable car read this and heed our plea to slow it down. When you get out at the hill-top station turn right to the Kartlis Deda or statue, or go left to the Narikala Fortress. The cable car accepts Metro cards. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Dry Bridge Bazaar C-1.

T hi s ex tra ordinar y fl ea market will keep you entertained for hours. There is a mesmerising assor tment of antiques, jewellery and bric-a-brac on sale. In the tough days of Perestroika and the early years of independence, the Dry bridge is where hard-up citizens of Tbilisi would come to sell their possessions in order to make a little cash. For some people that is still the case today, though for others this is their main business. Everything is laid out on the ground, often carefully arranged on on sheets of material, other times it is a haphazard collection. One person might be trying to sell you twenty-year-old batteries or an old toothbrush, while their neighbour will be touting antique amber and silver jewellery. If you want to buy anything remember to haggle. Prices may be inflated, especially for tourists. Open daily if the weather is good, from 10:00 - 17:00. At weekends there are usually more sellers, but more tourists too.

Freedom Square C-2. Is the heart and centre of the city

and the ideal place to get your bearings. Many hotels and hostels are close by as well as a lot of banks and offices. There is a Tourist information centre inside the Courtyard

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Marriott Hotel, right on the square. Freedom Square also marks one end of the Old Town and Gareubani, the area outside of the old town wall. The twelfth century ruins of the old city wall were carefully excavated in 2012, and are now part of a considerate and interesting pedestrian walkway along Pushkin Street. The golden statue of Saint George on top of a pillar in the centre of the square was erected after the Rose Revolution in 2005.

Funicular A-2, Chokqadze St.. In 1900 the city government commissioned th e Belgian engineer, Alphonse Roby, to construct a funicular. The 500 metres long line was opened in March 1905. It consisted of three stations, the lower on today’s Chonquadze street in the city, the “Pantheon” stop near the Mtatsminda Pantheon, and “Mtatsminda”, at the top of mountain. It was closed in 2000 following an accident, but reopened in 2012 after a comprehensive reconstruction project that renovated the stations and replaced the drive mechanism, rails, cars and safety equipment. A single ride is 2 Lari, but you also need to purchase a rechargeable card (valid also for Mtatsminda Park) which costs 2 Lari and is not refundable. Cars run every 10 minutes from 11:00 to 19:30. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30. Narikala Fortress D-3, the top of Orpiri St. Also called the mother fortress of Tbilisi, Narikala is an ancient symbol of Tbilisi’s defence. The for tress was established in the 4th century, around the period when the city itself was founded. It was then known as Shuristsikhe (“Invidious Fort”). The name Narikala is said to derive from a Persian word for citadel, but another theory says was the name that Mongols used, meaning “little fortress”. It was expanded considerably by the Arabs during the 7th and 8th centuries. The Arabs built the Emir’s palace within its walls. King David further extended the Builder the fortress in th 11th century. Most of the existing fortifications date from the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1827 it was damaged by an earthquake and was not resorted. St. Nikolos church, inside the fortress walls, dates from the 12th century. It was renovated in 1996. Narikala offers you some of the best panoramas of the city. We’d also advise to take a walk along the Narikala Tourist route, a 1.5 kilometre trail that runs from the top of the ridge near the Mother Georgia statue, around the fortress and down into Old Town to near the entrance to the Botanical Gardens. It offers stunning views at every turn and is a particular delight at night when the city lights shine below. Q Admission is free. L Old Town. Sitting at the foot of the imposing hill capped by the Narikala Fortress and climbing the slopes is Tbilisi Old Town, a labyrinth of narrow streets where wooden balconies look down from old brick-build homes. Doorways lead to hidden courtyards an ancient vines climb to the skies using August - October 2013

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What to see Bridges

All bridges in the centre of Tbilisi are fairly new, the oldest is Metekhi Bridge. It stands on the site of a wooden bridge, the first to span the Mtkvari in Tbilisi. The present bridge was built in the 1950s. “Dry Bridge” is roughly 160 years old and was built by the Italian, Giovanni Scudieri, now famous for the flea market held on it. Baratashvili Bridge is a traffic and pedestrian bridge, built in 1966 .The railings of the bridge have been decorated with bronze, and there are life-size sculptures of people that are well worth seeing. The newest bridge in Tbilisi, opened in 2010 is made of steel and glass. It is pedestrian-only and is named Peace Bridge

Tbilisi walking paths

What to see anything vertical for support. Parts have been comprehensively renovated, arguably a little too enthusiastically, so that some streets look like a Disney film set, though far more of these twisting alleys are untouched. They are ramshackle, cracked and crumbling but delightful, enchanting, picturesque and real. The style is a mix of two influences, the tight winding streets of an Asian or Arabic town interwoven with European, classical Russian and Art Nouveau architecture. The northern edge is the recently renovated Abanotubani area, famous for its Sulphur Baths the square Moedani with its many restaurants. Old Town’s main artery is Kote Abkhazi Street (formerly Leselidze) which connect Moedani with Freedom Square. In the North East corner, between Leselidze and the river, is Chardeni, a small area backed with bars resturants, nightclubs and cafes, shoulder to shoulder along a series of pedestrian streets. To the west, Old Town melts into Sololaki area, a lovely and fascinating place to wander around, take photographs and explore Tbilisi.

giving formal dinner-parties in the baths. The local matchmakers could be sometimes bribed to allow illicit glimpses of naked bodies. Alexander Puskin cwas just one of many famous people to have taken the waters, and he certainly enjoyed the experience “I have never encountered anything more luxurious than this Tbilisi bath “ Located on Abano (bath) Street the underground public bath houses in use today are characterised from the outside by their rows of low cupola. The oldest is Erekle’s Bath, whilst the most externally ornate is Chreliabano” with it’s towering façade of decorated tiles.

Churches There are many churches in Tbilisi; this is a selection of the most important religious monuments. Most will be open during the day with the Georgian liturgy ceremony usually held at 16:00 on Saturday and 09:00 on Sunday.

Anchiskhati Basilica of Saint Mary C-2. The

Parliament B-1, Rustaveli Av. 8. This impor tant example of Soviet Georgian archi tecture si tuated on Rustaveli avenue was the former home of the USSR’s government in Georgia. The oldest part of the building was erected in 1953. I t is faced with 16 columns, representing the 16 Soviet states of the USSR. In 2011 the Georgian parliament voted to remove Soviet icons from public display and a lot of carved hammers and sickles and other Soviet symbols were removed from the facades of old buildings, including the Parliament itself. The actual Parliament of Georgia has moved to Kutaisi, where a new home was built for it between 2011-2012.

Tbilisi is a city of stunning views and using the network of walking paths on the slopes surrounding city is a great way to soak them in. One leads from the amusement park at the summit of Mtatsminda all the way around to Narikala Fortress, which should take you around 45 minutes. Allow longer if you are walking in the opposite direction, as it is more up hill this way round. Another path from Mtatsminda leads down to the Pantheon. The paths are generally in very good condition; although some of the wooden boardwalks across streams have rotten planks that need replacing, so do take care. Both paths provide great views. You can save a little energy by taking the funicular up Mtatsminda and then the cable car down from Narikala.

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Sulphur Baths D-3. The sulphur baths are intimately con-

nected with Tbilisi. It is said that the hot springs are why the city was built here. High in sulphurs and other minerals, with a constant temperature of 38C to 40C, the waters have long been used as a therapeutic aid for a range of ailments including skin conditions and arthritis. Naturally fed public sulphur baths have been essential part of life in Tbilisi for centuries. Citizens would spend their leisure time relaxing here, even

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Sioni C-3, Sioni. According to legend, the first church on this site was constructed by King Vakhtang Gorgasali in the fifth century and has been rebuilt several times since. Its three-tiered church tower was constructed in 15th century and renovated in the 18th century. Its walls are covered with beautiful frescoes. Visit on a Sunday morning and enjoy the signing of the boys’ choir. St. Mikheil Tver eli Church A-1, Zaldastan-

oldest church in Tbilisi, dating back to the first years of Georgian Christianity in the sixth century. Its design differs from the typical later temples. There are magni ficent frescoes inside, some dating back almost 400 years.

Catholic Church C-2, G. Abesadze 4. Constructed in 1808 and exhibiting a mix of architectural styles including Baroque and NeoGothic. During the Soviet era it was used as a storehouse. I t became dilapidated but was renovated before the Pope’s visit to Georgia in 1999.

Presidential Palace

D-2, M. Abdushelishvili 1. Built on the initiative of President Micheil Saakashvili and also known as the Avlabari Residence, the Presidential Palace sits on a overlooking the river on the opposite bank to the Narikala Fortress. Several architects were involved in the project but Italian Michele De Luki is credited with its final appearance. It was officially opened in the summer of 2009. De Luki was also the architect of the glass bridge across the river Mtkvari, entitled the “Peace Bridge”. Tours around the Palace are available upon request, seven workdays in advance. Go to www.president. gov.ge for details.

Mosque I-7, Botanikuri. Its slender red-brick minaret is easy to spot from a distance. Located at the foot of Narikala fortress in Tbilisi’s oldest district, Abanotubani. The Sunni mosque was built in the nineteenth century and interestingly not only features Islamic motifs but also Gothic.

Great Synagogue C-3, Leselidze 47. Established between 1895 and 1903, the exterior is decorated with a mosaic, while inside there are paintings depicting biblical verses and prayers. Kvashveti B-1, Rustaveli Ave. 9. Located on the main street of the city, opposite the Parliament, this church was built between 1904 and 1910. It suffered serious damage during the brief but violent civil war in the early 1990s. Metekhi Church D-3. The Church of Assumption, is a rather unusual example of a domed Georgian Orthodox church. It was built by the Georgian king St Demetrius II circa 1278-1284, but was subsequently damaged and repaired several times. King Rostom (1633-1658) fortified the area around the church with a strong citadel garrisoned by some 3,000 soldiers. Under Russian rule the church was used as a barracks. tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

ishvili 36. This Russian church was constructed between 1911 and 1913. Lo ca te d a t t h e fo ot of Mtatsminda mountain on Zaldastanishvili Street, the whitewashed walls make it easy to spot from a distance. The interior is plastered in a light blue colour.

The Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi I-5, Sam-

reklo. Commonly known as Sameba is located on Elia Hill above the left bank of the River Mtkvari in the historic neighbourhood of Avlabari. It is the main Georgian Orthodox Cathedral and is the third-tallest Eastern Orthodox Cathedral in the World. Sameba was constructed between 1995 and 2004 and paid for by anonymous donations from citizens and several wealthy businessmen. The Sameba complex consists of the main cathedral, a free-standing belltower, the residence of the Patriarch, a monastery, a clerical seminary and theological academy.

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What to see

What to see

Religion

Museums

The valley in which Tbilisi sits has witnessed the movement of humanity since prehistoric times. Throughout civilisation, people with many different cultures and religions have passed through, sometimes fleetingly, often settling. With the birth of the monotheistic religions, they too were added to the mix. As a result, Tbilisi has a rich collection of Christian churches. Georgia was among the first Christian countries in the world and officially embraced Christian in the 4th century. However centuries of Persian and Turkish invasions left significant Islamic sites influences. The dominant religion in Georgia is Eastern Orthodox. Georgians take their religion very seriously. Many Georgians will cross themselves when passing a church, not necessarily an observance that is comfortable to observe when practiced by a marshrutka driver on a twisting mountain road. Armenians are the second biggest religious minority (3.9%) in Georgia after Muslims (9.9%). Catholics – 0.8 %, Yezids - 0.4%, Jews -  0,1% are presented in the city too. Christianity was adopted as a state religion of kingdom of Iberia (present-day Kartli) as a result of a missionary work of Saint Nino from Cappadocia. Saint Andrew was first to preach Christianity in Peggan kingdoms, not yet united as Georgia. The apostle of Christ died here and is buried on the territory of present day Abkhazia.

Square, tel. (+995) 32 299 99 09, www.museum.ge. Once a seminary where Joseph Stalin studied for the priesthood from 1894 to 1898 until he was expelled for revolutionary activities, now home to a collection of fine art. It contains works dating from the Middle Ages by a number of different artists, as well as historical pieces thousands of years old. Its Treasury section contains is many of Georgia’s most sacred and revered objects including icons, crosses and jewellery in precious metals and stones. The Treasury can only be visited with a guide. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3 Lari, children under 18 - 0.5 Lari, under 6 - free. Guided tours (up to 10 person) - 25 Lari. Guide service in Georgian, English, German, and Russian languages. Museum of Theatre, Cinema & Music G-2, Ia Kargareteli 6, tel. (+995) 32 295 35 63, www.artpalace. ge. The museum houses rich materials which reflect history of old and contemporary Georgian Theatre, Music, Cinema and Choreography. Among them are: samples of the XVII c. painting, Persian miniatures, German and French prints, works of XX c. artists. In the museum are stored also theatre costumes, memorial belongings, audio-video records, playbills, programmes, films, collections of theatre decorative art.

Tbilisi districts Tbilisi is city of around 1.5 million on the banks of the Mtkvari River. Most sights, bars, restaurants, shops and hotels are on the right bank. The Old Town spreads from the riverbank up the steep slopes to Narikala Fortress and along to Freedom Square. Settlement here dates from the fifth century, though few buildings survived the destruction wrought by the Persians in 1795. Most of the Old Town dates from soon after. There has been a significant rejuvenation program in recent years around the Meidani area. Some buildings have been pulled down and rebuilt, others renovated. It has been largely sympathetic to the original architecture, though its “just out of the box” look does give the area a somewhat artificial aura. Rustaveli Avenue is Tbilisi’s main street. It runs from Freedom Square up to Rustaveli Metro station. As well as shops, banks and restaurants, along its length sit many grand buildings including Parliament, the Opera and Ballet Theatre and the National Museum. Uphill from Rustaveli is Mtatsminda, a mainly residential district, with a few bars, cafes and hotels. After Rustaveli Metro station is Vere with a high density of bars and businesses plus the Tbilisi Music Hall. Vere is considered one of the most pleasant districts to live. Past Vere is Vake, an affluent area, favoured by wealth Tbiliseli and ex-patriots. On the left bank, the main artery is Aghmashenebeli Avenue, a shopping street which runs parallel to the river from Vorontsov Square, (official known as Zarbrukene Square) to Tbilisi Dynamo stadium. Half the length of Aghmashenebeli Avenue has been renovated. Near the stadium there are a lot of second hand clothes shops and the Bazroba, a large outdoor market. Station Square and Tbilisi’s main train station is in this area too. The other area of note on the left bank is Avlabari, perched on top of a bluff above the river. It is a quaint old residential area but also the site of Sameba Cathederal and the Presidential Palace.

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

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(+995 32) 2222941 / (+995 32) 2221341 [email protected], www.berika.ge 2, Mtskheta St., 0179, Tbilisi, Georgia Open Air Museum of Ethnography J-3, Kus Tba 1, tel.

(+995) 32 272 90 45, www.museum.ge. A huge outdoor museum sprawling over 50 hectares on the hill above Vake Park. It consists of over 70 buildings and more than 8000 implements and artefacts from traditional Georgian life. The museum is divided into ten zones, each depicting a different aspect of Georgian ethnology. The buildings have been brought from all over Georgia and painstakingly re-errected. There is a example of a guard tower form notheren Svanetia and a Kachetian winery as well as houses and other buildings from Abkhazia, Adjara and other regions. Each building has its own relevant display of costumes, ceramics, tools and items from daily life. At the Kartli house, arrive before 16:00 and when you step inside, look up.... The museum also has great views over the city. To get here take bus #59 from Rustaveli metro station in the Vake direction and get off at the last stop. From there, either walk for about 30 min or take a taxi for 3-4 Lari. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 1.5 Lari, children under 18 - 0.5 Lari, under 6 - free. Guided tours (up to 10 person) - 25 Lari. Guide service in Georgian, English, German, and Russian languages.

Company Bego by Niko Pirosmani

National Gallery B-1, Ruslaveli Av. 11, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 299 80 22, www.museum.ge. Houses periodical exhibitions of works from Georgia and foreign collections. Heralded for its works by the famous Georgian primitivism painter Niko Pirosmani. Despite being the largest Pirosmani collection in the world, it is rarely all in Tbilisi as many pieces are often on world tours. It is also home to a series of exhibitions of Georgian work from the fourth century to the present day. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 Lari, children under 18 - 0.5 Lari, under 6 - free. Guided tours (up to 10 person) - 25 Lari. Guide service in Georgian, English, German, and Russian languages. National Museum B-2, Rustaveli Av. 3, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 299 80 22,www.museum.ge. maps the development of Georgia’s material culture from the Bronze Age to the early 20th century. The Treasury holds a stunning collection of intricate jewellery and artefacts wrought in gold and silver, dating back thousands of years. Other exhibits include some of the oldest human remains discovered outside Africa, the Homo Ergaster fossils found at Dmanisi. There is also a section dedicated to life during the Soviet Occupation. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 Lari, children under 18 - 0.5 Lari, under 6 - free. Guided tours (up to 10 person) - 25 Lari. Guide service in Georgian, English, German, and Russian languages. tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

Open Air Museum of Ethnography

State Museum of Georgian Folk Songs and Musical Instruments D-3, Samgebro 6, tel. (+995) 32 245 77 21.

houses collections of musical instruments from Georgian and South Caucasian peoples, as well as European mechanical and classical musical instruments. It is also an important repository for manuscripts of Georgian folk music and audio and video recordings. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. State Museum of Silk F-1, Tsabadze 6, tel. (+995 32) 234 09 67, www.silkmuseum.ge. One the oldest museums in Tbilisi is dedicated to the history of silk production, the different types of silkworms, the mulberry trees they feed on, dyes used to colour fabrics and the traditional and industrial processes employed to manufacture the fabric. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free.

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Travel agencies Berika L-3, Mtskheta 2, tel. (+995) 32 222 29 41,

[email protected], www.berika.ge. Berika provides individual and group city tours around Tbilisi as well as cultural and adventurous tours around Georgia and countries of South Caucasus. There are also some specials as birds-watching and wine/gourmet tours. Black sea holidays can also be organised. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Caucasus Travel D-3, Leselidze 44/II, MLiberty Square, tel. + 995 32 2987400, [email protected], www.caucasustravel.com. The tour company provides all variety of tours around Georgia. There are individual tours as well as scheduled tours, which depart on the certain days, no matter how many people the group has. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Colour Tour Georgia C-3, Leselidze 27, MLiberty square, tel. (+995) 32 292 05 20, [email protected], www.colourtourgeorgia.com. With over 20 years experience Color Tour provides one day tours around Tbilisi, Mtskheta, Gori and other tourist destinations. Skiing, trekking in the Caucasus and cultural tours around Georgia are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A Concord Travel L-3, Barnov 82, tel. (+995) 32 222 51 51, [email protected], www.concordtravel.ge. The widest range of short tours around Tbilisi and Georgia, as well as long tours around the Caucasus. They offer some unique services as sightseeing flights over Georgia by light planes or helicopters. Concord Travel also has their own car rental. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Highlander, tel. (+995) 551 74 87 93, [email protected], www.highlander.ge. The tour company organises Tbilisi walking tours, one day trips around Tbilisi, trekking, food and wine tours, horse riding, skiing and tours to Mestia. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Samt Travel M-3, Melikishvili 10, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 214 94 94, [email protected] , www. samttravel.com/en. Samt Travel offers Tbilisi city tours, weekend tours around Tbilisi to Mtskheta, Kazbegi, Davit Gareja monastery. There is also a range of long tours around Georgia, with some outstanding options as birds tours and fishing tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

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leisure

What to see Tbilisi History Museum C-3, Sioni 8, tel. (+995)

32 298 22 81, www.museum.ge. Located in a restored caravanserai as a way of representing the city’s historic role as a significant trading centre on the Silk Road. Its collection of over fifty thousand artifacts includes ceramics, weapons, musical instruments, coins, textiles and household items dating from the Bronze Age. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3 Lari, children under 18 - 0.5 Lari, under 6 free. Guided tours (up to 10 person) - 25 Lari. Guide service in Georgian, English, German, and Russian languages.

Zurab Tsereteli Museum of Modern Art G-5, Rustaveli Av. 27, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 214 84 11, www.momatbilisi.ge. A modern and spacious private museum dedicated to the famous Georgian sculptor and artist Zurab Tsereteli. Spread over three floors with the ground floor given to his sketches, the first floor for his big, colourful paintings and the top floor for an exhibition depicting his life. There are also several of his sculptures on display. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free..

to Narikala Fortress. During summer evenings, a music and light show accompanies a choreographed fountain display. Q Admission is free. Tbilisi Sea, MGrhmaghele. Officially known as Tbilisi Reservoir this artificial lake opened in 1953. It is the largest lake near Tbilisi, so a popular spot during the hot days of summer. The public beach is free, but unguarded, often crowded and dirty. Alternatively, for 20 Lari you can enter the Tbilisi Sea Club, which also has a couple bar. A reasonable price for a taxi ride from the centre of Tbilisi is 15 Lari. Turtle Lake J-3, Kus Tba. a particularly popular place in summer, located to the east of the Ethnographic Museum and above Vera Park. People escape the heat of the city to picnic and relax. Yet another spot with superb views of the city. To get here take bus the #59 from Rustaveli metro station in the Vake direction and take of at the last stop. From there either walk for about 30 min or take a taxi for 3-4 Lari.

Parks & Gardens 9th April and Giorgi Leonidze Parks B-1, MLiberty

Square. One of the oldest park in Tbilisi and famous for its old plane and pine trees. Its upper area is named after the events of 1989 when an anti-Soviet demonstration was dispersed by the Soviet Army, resulting in 20 deaths and hundreds of injuries. The Lower section is named Giorgi Leonidze Park Q Admisison if free. Botanical Garden of Georgia D-3, MAvlabari. There have been gardens on this site for centuries. Formally the Royal Gardens, it became the Botanical Gardens in 1845. Located in a gorge below Narikala Fortress with a river tumbling through it that divides its 128 hectares and its displays of 4500 species of flora from Georgia and around the World. The entrance located at the end of Botanikuri Street. Q Admission 3 Lari.

Amusement Parks

Karting

Mtatsminda Amusement Park E-6, Mtatsminda Mt.,

Astra Park Chachava 8, tel. (+995) 32 237 37 37, www.astrapark.ge. It is quite far from the city centre, but has a 320-metre circuit spread over 2000 square meters. There is also has a games room with 34 different games machines. The café-bar shows live televised football and basketball games. The billiard hall features two Russian and five American pool tables. There are three ping-pong tables and a movie theatre. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

tel. (+995) 32 249 23 23. This park on the top of Mtatsminda Mountain offers extreme zone with a rollercoaster for adrenaline addicts as well as family and kids zones. There are video games, karting for kids, water slides and many other attractions. A ride on the big Ferris Wheel (2 Lari), perched on the edge of the hill provides one of the best views over Tbilisi and to the Caucasus Mountains in the distance. Easy to reach by bus #124 from Rustaveli Avenue (around 20 minutes), or by funicular from Kakabadze street. A rechargeable card can be purchased for 2 Lari in the ticket offices next to the entrances (non refundable) and at the bottom funicular station. Single attraction costs 1- 5 Lari. QOpen 9:00 - 23:00. Tbilisi Zoo E-3, Kostava 64, tel. (+995) 32 233 20 08. There are over 300 different types of animals, from Georgia and around the world. The living conditions are not the best and its location in the centre of the city is also not ideal for the welfare of its animals. For an extra fee you can also visit the Axotarium, housing a variety of reptiles and sea creatures. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Adults - 2 Lari. Children over 3 years - 1 Lari.

Bowling & Billards Akura D-3, Rkinis Rigi 11, tel. (+995) 32 243 90 99. A

Vake Park

Vake Park J-2. Big, around 200 hectares, opened in 1946, located in Vake area at the western end of Chavchavadze Avenue Vake park is very popular meeting place , surrounding by couple of bars. Monumental stairs lead up hill from where you can get by foot in 30 minutes to Ethnographic museum. Q Admission is free. Vera Park F-4, MRustaveli. Located just a few steps from the Philharmonic a small park, perfect to relax and enjoy a snack or drink. Here Chess Palace is located, where you can play pig-pong or go bouldering.

Worth seeing places

two-storey building with nine tables for American pool. Bar food available. Located in the middle of the Shardeni area and surrounded by bars and clubs.QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. Bowling Central G-1, Tbilisi Central Station, ground floor, MStation square - 2, tel. (+995) 32 220 03 83. Bowling Central offers 12 lines for bowling. There are four pool tables, one for snooker and another for Russian billiards. There is also a little cinema hall for rent. QOpen 24hrs. Bowling: 28-44 Lari per hour. Billiard 10-18Lari per hour. Cinema hall 15-25Lari per hour. Olympic M-3, Melikishvili 1, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 93 67 93. Located very close to Rustaveli Av. and Tbilisi Music Hall , Olympic offers six tables for American Pool. Another branch is at Krilovi 10. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Admission per hour 7 Lari until 17:00, 10 Lari after 17:00.

Bouldering Alpclub F-4, Kostava 37. A great little place with friendly people, located in the Chess Palace at Vera Park. Monthly access is 20 Lari.QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Kukia cemetery I-2. Located on the slope of Makhata Tbilisi Botanical Garden

Mziuri Park L-2. One of the most interesting parks in the city with a collection of fountains and sculptures. Usually crowded by students from the nearby Universities, there is a small amphitheatre that sometimes hosts local bands and musicians. Its easy to miss entrance is located in between the buildings at numbers 21 and 23 Chavchavadze Avenue. Q Admisison is free. Rike Park D-2, MAvlabari. This is the newest public recreation area in Tbilisi, popular with families, especially in summer. It sits on the left bank of Mtkvari river, under the gaze of the Presidential Palace. It is easy to access from the Old City via the glass and steel pedestrian Peace Bridge, or on the other side of the river, by descending the stairs from Avlabari. A newly opened cable car station takes people up Tbilisi In Your Pocket

mt. above Marjanishvili area Kukia cemetery is place worth to visit. The cemetery is 300 years old. In the entrance of the old part, there is a St. Nino’s church. Beautiful view of Tbilisi can be seen from here from very different, unusual perspective, once usually all tourist routes are located on the other side of the valley. This place full of spirit and charm. Lower part, especially around the church is organised cemetery, once, upper, new part is more like a park full of bushes and hidden, narrow paths. Perfect place to walk and contemplate. Mtatsminda Pantheon A-2, Mama Daviti Rise. The Mtatsminda Pantheon of Writers and Public Figures was established in 1929. It is a necropolis on the slopes of Mount Mtatsminda (Holly Mountain) where some of Georgia’s most prominent artists, writers, scholars and national heroes are buried.

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Rustavi International Motor Park

Motorpark Rustavi International Motor Park 21st km of the

Tbilisi-Tsiteli Bridge highway, tel. (+995) 32 230 77 03, www.rustavi1.com. Located about 20 km south of Tbilisi, this track hosts national championships, drag racing, pairs racing, drifting, karting, motorcycle and club racing, as well as self-drive track days. Recent renovation works mean its 4.14 kilometre track has an estimated maximum speed of 282 km/h. maximum estimated speed. Visitors driving their own car are charged US$6 for three laps. Driving a formula car will cost US$190 for 20 minutes. Check Rustavi’s website for more offers. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Swimming & Water Parks Laguna Vere F-3, Kostava lane 34, MRustaveli, tel.

+(995 32) 292 15 27, www.laguna-vere.ge. A sport and recreation complex for swimming, diving or water polo located in the centre of Tbilisi. Four of Laguna Vere’s pools meet international competition standards, while two others are designed for children. Only one pool is open in Winter. Swimming lessons are available. The complex offers fitness and aerobics gyms, a beauty salon, café-bars, several shops, massage therapy and a hairstylist service. QOpen 07:00 21:00. 1 day admission 10 Lari.

Vake Swimming Pool and Fitness Centre J-2, Chavchavadze Av. 49B, MDelisi, tel. (+995) 32 225 25 75, www.vakefitness.ge. Arguably the best swimming pool in town. Located in Vake and offering fitness facilities together with a large well-equipped pool. Limited monthly passes for 240 Lari (07:00-18:00 except Saturday and Sunday) and unlimited passes for 350 Lari (07:00-23:00 every day). Both prices include access to the swimming pool, sauna and fitness club plus towels. A one-day entrance pass, all included, will cost 90 Lari. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Mtatsminda Amusement Park, also known as “Bombora”

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around tbilisi There are a many interesting places around Tbilisi that can be easy reached in couple hours or less. Just 15 km away is Mtskheta, believed to be one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world and the former capital of Georgia. One of its highlights is the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. Jvari Monastery is also nearby, giving breathtaking views of the Caucasus. It is one of three UNESCO World Heritage sites in Georgia. Take a ride by public city bus to reach Kojori, to see its ruined medieval fortress, a great spot for a picnic and relaxed hiking. A little further away is Davit Gareja, famous for its monastery where the cloisters are caves in the rocks. There are also views out over the Azerbaijan plain and eagles can often be spotted soaring overhead. The city of Gori was the birthplace of Stalin and there is a large museum dedicated to his life, though with a conspicuous lack of criticism of his actions. Near Gori is the fascinating ancient site of Uplistsikhe, a city carved from rock with a history dating back to around the second millennium B.C. Other options for a day trips are Signaghi and Telavi in Kachetia region, perfect for a wine testing tour. Take a ride up the Georgian Military Highway to see spectacular views of the Caucasus Mountains and the beautiful Kazbegi Mountain at Stepantsminda (Kazbegi). On route, stop at the old walled fortress of Ananuri.

around tbilisi 2008 South Ossetian War Gori came under aerial attack by the Russian Air Force. Both military targets and residential districts of the city were hit, resulting in civilian injuries and deaths. Around 20 minutes drive from Gori is the ancient city of Uplistsikhe It is a fascinating and beautiful city with homes, civil buildings and temples hewn from the rock. To get there, take taxi from Gori for about 15 Lari. Marshrutkas to Gori leave from Didube (3 Lari one way).

Kakheti Region. East of Tbilisi is the Kakheti wine region and definitely worth visiting to sample, Saperavi, Mukhuzani and other famous Georgian wines. The walled town of Signaghi, called “The City of Love” by Georgians has been recently renovated, arguably a little too enthusiastically, yet it is still a beautiful town in a superb location on a hilltop overlooking the Alazani Valley and Main Caucasus range beyond. It is the most charming of all Kakhetian cities, with a relaxed, romantic atmosphere. Telavi lies in the middle of the region, so it is good point to start your wine tour. Several estates including Tsinandali and Pheasants Tears offer tours that include wine tasting. The big producers are by no means your only options to sample Georgian wines as virtually every household makes its own, much (though not all) of it excellent. Kojori. Located, about 15 kilometers southwest of Tbilisi

is the medieval Kojori Fortress (also known as Agarani or Azeuli Fortress). The earliest parts date back to the late 11th century, but most of the structures were built between the 16th and 18th centuries. When the Red Army invaded Georgia in February 1921, Kojori witnessed brutal fighting between the Georgian and Soviet forces. There is a bus from Tbilisi (Kolmeurneoba/Kolkhoz Square, right next to the flower market) that runs every 30 to 40 minutes.

Davit Gareja Monastery

Davit Gareja. Davit Gareja lies on the border with Azerbaijan but is a viable day trip from Tbilisi. The site comprising a complex of old monasteries spread over a large area. It is a remote, semi-desert landscape of rolling hills and grassland which is covered with flowers in early summer. The two most important monasteries are Lavra (the only one still inhabited today), and, on the hill above it, Udabno, with its beautiful frescoes. Lavra was the first monastery, founded in the 6th century by Davit Gareja, one of the 13 ascetic Syrian fathers who came to Georgia to spread Christianity. The hike to the top of the hill above the monastery is quite steep, but the views are well worth it. The sight of an eagle soaring above might also reward your efforts. Getting to Davit Gareja is not easy. You can take Marshrutka to Sagarejo (from Samgori) and from there take a taxi (60 Lari) or arrange a taxi form Tbilisi for about 120 Lari. In both cases the taxi driver will wait while you explore the complex.

Mtskheta and Jvari Monastery. The former capital of Georgia, has some outstanding examples of medieval religious architecture. Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. The site is believed to have been settled since around 3000-2000 BC. Its mild climate, and its fertile soil together with its strategic location at the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers made it an ideal home for human habitation. It also became an important stopping point on the ancient trade routes and was a significant site of early Christian activity. Mtskheta was the capital of the early Georgian Kingdom of Iberia, from the 3rd century BC until the 5th century AD. At the beginning of the 6th centaury, King Dachi I Ujarmeli moved the capital from Mtskheta to Tbilisi, in accordance with his father’s will. One of its most important monuments is Samtavro (the Place of the Ruler), where a small domed church was originally constructed in the 4th century. The grave of Mirian, the Georgian king who adopted Christianity, lies within the church. Another significant religious site is the Svetitskhoveli church. Built

Gori and Uplistsikhe. Less than 80km west from Tbilisi

is the city where Stalin was born. There is a museum to its most famous son, which has many interesting exhibits chronicling his life. Rather worryingly, there is virtually no mention of any of his crimes against humanity. The Museum of Stalin has tours conducted by English speaking guides. There is a fortress on the hill, first built in the 13th century, but subsequently extended and altered by the Georgian kings Rostom of Kartli in the 1630s and Erekle II in 1774. During the

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Uplistsikhe rock town

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Abkhazia and South Ossetia The breakaways regions p.10

Abkhazia

Mtskheta on the site of a wooden church, the complex includes an 11th century cathedral. Originally its interior was decorated with wall paintings, but these were whitewashed over. Recently fragments of the original paintings have remerged from below the whitewash covering. Next to Mtsheta, on top of a hill above the Aragvi river is the Mtskhetis Jvari. This complex contains several buildings from different periods including a classic Georgian cruciform church dating from the mid-6th century. There are beautiful views from here. A taxi from the centre costs around 20 Lari. To get to Mtskheta from Tbilisi go to the Didube bus station and take Marshrutka for 1 Lari.

View to Kazbegi mountain from Stepantsminda

Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) . The Georgian Military

Highway connects Tbilisi with Vladykavkaz in the Russian Federation, traversing the main Caucasus range. It follows the traditional route used by invaders and traders throughout the ages. This is considered one of the most beautiful roads in Georgia (though the competition for that title is very hot). The views are simply breathtaking. Around 60km from Tbilisi, lies Ananuri, an enchanting fortress complex that sits above a huge reservoir. The road also passes Gudauri, the biggest ski resort in Georgia, before continuing north, reaching its highest point (2379 m), at Jvari Pass. Stepantsminda, formerly known as Kazbeg, is the regional centre. From here you can hike for around 3 hours to reach the awe inspiring and much photographed Gergeti Trinity Church (2170m). The views from here of Mount Kazbeg (5033m) are wonderful. To get to Stepansmida take a Marshrutka from Didube (10 Lari). A one way drive, depending on weather conditions, lasts around 3.5 to 4 hours.

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Enclosed between Russia, Georgia and the Black Sea coastline, Abkhazia was one of the top tourist destinations in the Soviet Union. Fabulous scenery and natural wonders (subtropical beaches, alpine lakes and gorges, some of the deepest mountain caves on earth), historical monuments (New Athos monastery, the cities of Sukhumi and Gagra, and other ancient religious sites) made it a huge draw. All travellers should log on to Abkhaz Foreign Ministry website (http://mfaapsny.org/en/council/visa.php) to check the latest immigration requirements. Most foreigners will need to fill out a downloadable electronic visa application form and forward it to the provided Abkhaz Consular Service e-mail address. Normally, a free-of-charge entry permit will be issued within five working days and emailed back to the applicant to print out. From Georgia, Abkhazia can only be entered through the “Enguri” checkpoint on the administrative border, 10 kilometres north-west of Zugdidi and as of 2013, operated by the Russian military. The print out of the entry permit must be produced, together with a valid passport upon reaching the checkpoint control. Within three days of arrival in Abkhazia, the traveller is required to visit the Sukhumi branch of SberBank of Abkhazia (not to be confused with the SberBank of Russia), to pay the visa fee of 20 US dollars and proceed with the receipt to the office of Consular Service in Sukhumi to receive a visa. The visa will be handed to the traveller as a loose sheet of paper, not to be attached to the passport, as it will be collected upon departure through the checkpoint control, serving as an exit permit. From Russia, Abkhazia can be entered through the “Psou” checkpoint. Departing back to Russia will require the traveller to hold a Russian multi-entry visa. Note: entering Abkhazia through the “Psou” checkpoint is as of 2013 deemed a criminal offence under Georgian law, therefore visiting Abkhazia from Russia may result in the traveller not being subsequently admitted into Georgia or being prosecuted by Georgian authorities, as Russian border guards are likely to stamp the individual’s passport upon crossing “Psou”. Compared to Georgia proper, Abkhazia is a considerably less travel-friendly environment. The level of security is low and especially in Sukhumi one should refrain from sightseeing after dark. The currency in use is the Russian Ruble. Expect ATMs not to work with foreign bank cards and foreign mobile phones/SIM cards may not be compatible with local cellular networks. At least having a “survival” knowledge of Russian is a must. In general, travel to Abkhazia is not advisable especially to travellers without prior experience of travelling in Ukraine and Russia. The situation remains volatile and one should obtain a thorough update immediately before embarking on travel to Abkhazia.

South Ossetia

Landlocked between Russia and Georgia, South Ossetia is currently off-limits to foreign visitors from either country. Crossing the region’s administrative border from Georgia might result in an individual’s arrest or direct physical danger from local military groups. Travellers should exercise caution not to enter South Ossetia inadvertently while trekking in eastern Imereti and Racha-Lechkhumi or western Mtskheta-Mtianeti (west of Georgian Military Highway, particularly the Truso valley).

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Batumi Getting there

batumi Monte Carlo Apart Hotel Ninoshvili 23A, tel. (+995)

From Tbilisi to Batumi you can get by bus, plane or train. Flights to Batumi depart almost every day, some days even twice. One way ticket costs around 55EUR. All flights arrive at Batumi International Airport. To get to the city centre take a taxi (15Lari) or bus #10 (0.40 Lari). Buses depart from Didube bus station approximately every hour and arrive in Tbilisi Square, next to the port (Gogebashvili St). Some buses arrive at the bus station, which is short walk from the port. The Old Town area starts from Gogebashvili Street and most of the hotels are located in a one kilometre radius from the bus stop. There is one overnight train to Batumi. Makhinjauri is the name of the train station (named after the village) 8 km NorthEast to Batumi. To get to the centre take a taxi (10-15 Lari) or bus #10 (0.80 Lari) or marshrutka # 20 (1 Lari).

422 21 21 03, [email protected], www.montecarlobatumi.ge. hhhh Piazza Boutique Hotel Parnavaz Mepe 25, tel. +995 (0) 322 61 15 13, fax (+995) 422 22 80 51, info@piazza. ge, www.piazza.ge. hhhh Brighton Dumbadze 8, tel. (+995) 422 27 41 35, www. brighton.ge. hhh Era Palace Gorgiladze 77, tel. (+995) 422 22 00 00, www.erapalace.ge. hhhh O. Galogre Gorgasali 8, tel./fax (+995) 422 27 48 45, [email protected], www.hotelgalogre.com. hhhh Why Not? Batumi Hostel & Bar Melikishvili 42, tel. (+995) 555 48 43 21, www.whynothostels.com. D’Vine Hostel Luka Asatiani 3, tel. (+995) 598 17 81 75.

Where to stay

Where to eat

Radisson Blu Batumi Ninoshvili 1, tel. (+995) 422 25

55 55, [email protected], www. radissonblu.com/hotel-batumi. hhhhh Sheraton Batumi Rustaveli Av. 28, tel. (+995) 422 22 90 00, [email protected], www.sheraton.com/ batumi. hhhhh President Plaza Baratashvili 17, tel. (+995) 422 27 69 51, [email protected], www.presidentplaza.ge. hhhhh Batumi World Palace Melashvili 1/3, tel. (+995) 422 22 57 90, fax (+995) 422 22 57 92, [email protected], www.batumiworldpalace.com. hhhh

Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Ajarian House Khimshiashvili 10, tel. (+995) 422 21 18 18. Rather unusually, the garden outside the restaurant is dotted with intricate models of old buildings and traditional houses. Inside, it looks like an old tavern and it is often loud and smoke-filled. To escape, sit outside on the terrace. The menu is typical Ajarian cuisine, which is fairly different from Georgian. The most popular dish is Borano - cheese and butter baked in a clay pot. Chaqondrili is also interesting - meat with spices prepared with a special recipe. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (7-20Lari) PALBXSW Café Rennes K.Gamsakhurdia 6, entrance from Rustaveli Av., tel. (+995) 422 22 85 23. A newly opened, relax café with an interior that is a mix of modern and classic elements, some table seating but also a lounge room. The menu is European - French dishes, and italian pastas as well as choice of salads are available. The manager’s recommendation is the Rennes salad, - pork, mushrooms, tomatoes, cucumbers, sesame and soy sauce. There are also a few deserts, out favourite is the chocolate cake! Wines from Telavi Marani and Mukhrani and good selection of whiskey is big plus. The outside garden is nice, but a bit noisy. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30. PALBXSW Fanfan Ninoshvili 27, tel. (+995) 591 15 00 51. Opened only a year ago, the place attracts like a magnet, thanks to a unique, easy-going atmosphere. The café is located in 1905 year building, which was owned by the famous Georgian writer Chabua Amiredjibi. Two rooms were redesigned in an eclectic style, which creates a very friendly atmosphere for meetings, or drinking a pint of beer inside, as well as on the outside terrace. One of a few animal friendly places in the city, with a cat that walks around and sleeps on the sofa. On summer evenings, live music is often played here, mostly jazz. A little pricey menu isn’t long, but interesting and offers European cuisine. For you, dessert lovers, chocolate mousse is a must. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. PA6EGBXSW La Brioche Parnavaz Mepe 25, Piazza Hotel, tel. +995 568 77 24 68, www.piazza.ge. This delightful café has top-location at Piazza Square. There are dozens of tables around the square, and a nice library style hall on the 3rd floor. La Brioche has an extensive menu, which includes salads (11-19Lari), pizza (13-20Lari) and a selections of main dishes usual for European cuisine. Live music plays here each day until late. Q Open 09:00 - 02:00. PAGBXW Marco Polo Parnavaz Mepe 25, tel. +995 568 77 24 68, www.piazza.ge. Located on the 4th floor of the Piazza complex, this is probably the one and only fully non-smoking restaurant in the whole of Georgia! Styled like an attic with tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

white painted wood and calm music that makes for a very relaxing mood. It is ideal for lunch or dinner, especially if you want to escape from city bustle. European cuisine with strong French accent dominates the menu. The wine list not only has Georgian vintages, but also French and Italian. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30Lari) PAGW Maspindzelo Melashvili 31, tel. (+995) 593 78 92 35. Specailising in old Georgian recipes and cooking methods, their cuisine really shines. The atmosphere is homely, with an interior all made of wood. Trout on walnut leaves is our favourite dish, well, so it the Maspindzelo - ground, fried meat covered in sour cream sauce. None of the staff speak English, but they will be warmly welcoming. Asking for the dish of the day could challenge your linguistic skills, but it is worth the attempt! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (5-12Lari) PN Mimino Mazniashvili 27, tel. +995 577 51 01 50, www. piazza.ge. Opened at the end of June 2013, it is one of the restaurants in Piazza complex and is a good example of a well done work. The interior is modern, simple and made with taste. An open kitchen makes it even better. The restaurant is named after famous Soviet comedy, so walls are covered with dozens of pictures from the movie. The menu looks so good, that you become hungry, even if you stop by only for a coffee. It features a mix of traditional and modern Georgian cuisine. Our favourite is Sulguni cheese rolls with cottage cheese and mint, but chicken in blackberry sauce is also a must. Outside seating are located right on the Piazza Square with daily live music concerts. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAEBXW Münich Kutaisi/Kostava 8/5, tel. (+995) 422 22 72 84, www.inmunich.ge. Opened only in spring 2013, Münich brought a freshness to the local restaurant scene. A welldesigned interior, with a black ceiling, brick walls, Bavarian paintings bring you to this famous German region. Big bar together with a careful music selection gets the tone just right. The kitchen is partly open, and the fish selection is presented on ice, just next to the bar. Traditional bratwurst, knuckle or even whole pig is a menu feature. Not surprisingly there is an offering of German beers with Paulaner, Bitburger and Weihenstephan available. Outside is a beer garden with eight tables. A big TV broadcasts Bundesliga matches and other sport events. (30Lari)QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PBXW

Where to drink Black Buddha Baratashvili 17, tel. (+995) 422 27 69 51. There aren’t many nightlife spots in Batumi, but Black Buddha is certainly worth mentioning. Located on the ground floor of President Palace Hotel, it has modern black and gold decor including, of course, a Buddha statue in pride of place. The menu features sushi (it may be the only place offering it in Batumi), sandwiches and salads. There is no live music, but there are chill-out lounge tunes played on the speakers. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PABXW Quiet Woman Pub Mazniashvili 27, tel. (+995) 577 78 65 65, www.piazza.ge. Is there a city anywhere in the world, that doesn’t have an Irish pub? The Quiet Woman is Batumi’s version of this strange global phenomenon. Located in the main tourist attraction - Piazza Square - it offers an impressive beer choice. There is a simple, but tasty food selection. There is the essential Irish pub big screen for showing sports and there is outside seating during the summer season. It is a bit pricy, but certainly a popular place. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PABXW

On arrival pick up our full Batumi guide or visit batumi.inyourpocket.com tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

What to see Ali & Nino The statue depicts eternal love and understanding between nations. It was named after the ‘Ali and Nino’ novel by an Azerbaijani author using the pseudonym Kurban Said. It tells a story of a young Muslim Azerbaijani man and a Georgian Christian princess in time of the First World War. The eight metre statues, of a man and a woman are the work of Georgian sculptor Tamar Kvesitadze. Both statues move, changing their position every 10 minutes, yet the never become one. At night the sculptures are lit with changing colours, a magnetically beautiful sight. Alphabet Tower The Georgian alphabet is unique and is believed to date from around the 5th century. It underwent numerous changes before the modern version emerged. In 2012 a 130 metre tall tower with a twisting DNA helix shape was constructed, dedicated to the Georgian alphabet. There were plans for a restaurant and an observatory, but sadly it has closed and its future is uncertain. Batumi Boulevard Probably the oldest attraction in Batumi, construction of the boulevard began in 1881, when the Governor of the Batumi District assigned the German gardener, Reseller, to create a park alongside the sea shore of Batumi Old Town. Nowadays, Batumi Boulevard has reached a length of around 7 kilometres and is approximately divided into ‘new’ and ‘old’ boulevards. The original and beautiful park is still here, with the addition of modern sculptures, benches and fountains. During the height of the summer season the seashore is busy with cafés, restaurants, beach bars and clubs. Stroll along at any time of the day, a quiet morning or hot afternoon, but you must come here just before sunset. Seeing the sun sink into the sea is sublime and unforgettable. Botanical Garden Mtsvane Kontskhi, Makhinjauri www. bbg.ge. This is one the biggest and richest botanical gardens in the world. Located near Mtsvane Kontskhi (Green Cape) resort, it was the brainchild of the prominent Russian botanist and physical geographer Andrey Krasnov. The plants species displayed come from many utterly different climatic and landscape zones. To get to the Garden take marchrutka #31 or 150 from Parnavaz Mepe Street or Tbilisi square. QOpen 08:00-21:00. Admission 6.00 lari, free entrance for children under 10. Dancing Fountains Installed back in 2009, in Ardagani Lake, these French musical fountains are worth long walk here. The daily show usually starts after sunset. The fountains ‘dance’ to the a musical soundtrack of modern pop, rock and classical music. We were treated to the particular pleasure of the fountains dancing to AC/DC‘s “Highway to Hell”! There is a laser show, telling the history of Batumi and Georgia. Take a seat either on the sea side of the Lake or on the special places set out along the opposite lake shore. August - October 2013

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Shopping

Lifestyle directory

Books

Chopard C-2, Freedom Sq. 2, MLiberty Square. QOpen

Biblus L-3, Chavchavadze Av. 10, tel. (+995) 32 248 68 44. Also at Kostava 47, Rustaveli Av. 40/1. Q A Parnas. Prospero’s B-1, Rustaveli Av. 34, MRustaveli, tel.

Chronograph C-2, Freedom Sq. 2, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 250 50 00. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun

(+995) 32 292 35 92, www.prosperosbookshop.com. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Tue, Wed, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Fashion Adidas B-2, Rustaveli Av. 1, MLiberty Square, tel.

(+995) 32 293 45 31. Burberry C-2, Freedom Sq. 2, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 297 01 13. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. A Ermenegildo Zegna F-4, Rustaveli Av. 50/1, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 298 30 68. QOpen 10:30 21:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A Escada 16th km, D. Aghmashenebeli Alley, Tbilisi Mall. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA Hugo Boss F-4, Rustaveli Av. 37, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 292 33 44.

Lako Bukia Paliashvili 39A, tel. (+995) 32 229 46 49, www.lakobukia. com. Lako Bukia is the boutique clothes store for this young Georgian designer of the same name. Two lines are available: high fashion and evening dresses bearing the label Lako Bukia and a cheaper priced range of street-wear and casual clothing called lolobylako. Bukia is a graduate of a London college of fashion and has shown four seasons on London Fashion week. Previous collections have included a line borrowing elements from traditional Georgian men’s costumes, chokha. The boutique offers a bespoke service for tailored pieces with accents drawn from famous Caucasian details on a delicate fabrics. Stop by at Paliashvili 39a to commission your own designer piece with the personal participation of Lako Bukia. Your dress will be ready from between two days to a week. The silver accessories displayed in the store are from Imogen Belfield and glasses by Retrosuperfuture. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. PA

Food Goodwill L-2, Chavchavadze Av. 34, tel. (+995) 32 224 43 33. Also at Vokzali Sq. 2 (Tbilisi Central Shopping Mall), Parnavaz Mepe 1, Kavtaradze 1. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Grand Gourmet L-3, Eristavi 9 (Round Garden), tel. (+995) 32 229 50 05, www.gg.ge. Food shop selling speciality foods and ingredients, much of which is imported and not easy to find elsewhere in Georgia. Also at Rustaveli Ave. 37. QOpen 24hrs. PAKW Ioli G-3, Marjanishvili 16, MMarjanishvili. Also at VazhaPshavela Av. 48, Abashidze 41. QOpen 24 hrs. Populi C-1, Atoneli 3, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 243 11 22. One of the most popular and widely spread supermarkets in the city. Also at Leonidze 2, Paliashvili 16, Chavchavadze 54, Kostava 20. QOpen 24hrs. A Smart F-5, Rustaveli Ave. 31, MRustaveli, smart. ge. Q A

Jewellery & Accessory Baccarat B-1, Rustaveli Av. 24, MRustaveli, tel. (+ 995) 32 236 90 73, www.bakara.ge. QOpen 11:00 20:00. A Tbilisi In Your Pocket

11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

11:00 - 19:00. Frey Wille B-1, Rustaveli Av. 26, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 299 09 57. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Pokany D-3, Bambis rigi 7, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 591 40 98 47, www.pokany.com. An amazing mix of modern and traditional Georgian jewellery, mosaic and ceramic. Zarapxana L-2, Chavchavadze Av. 19, tel. (+995) 32 251 00 01, www.zarapxana.ge. This company has 7 shops around Tbilisi and produces unique jewellery with Georgian history flavour. Also at Vekua 3 (Shopping Centre GTC), Lubliana 15 and Tbilisi International Airport.

Shopping Malls

About us:

• We are a German non-profit school • We are part of the network of 140 German Schools abroad • We are supported by the authorities of the Federal Republic of Germany • We are integrated into the Georgian education system

What we are offering:

Your advantages:

• Kindergarten, pre-school, school (1-4 grade) • School Education in German language according to a modern German curriculum • All-day childcare (Mon-Fri from 8:30 until 18:30)

• Individual, child-oriented aproach • Learning in an international environment • High quality standards, regularly assessed by the German Federal School Administration

Shatberashvili 64, Tbilisi 0179  +995 322 293100  [email protected]

www.deutscheschule.ge

Tbilisi Central G-1, Vagzali Sq. 2, MStation Square - 2,

Accountants & Consulting

Embassies & Consulates

Tbilisi Mall 16th km, D. Aghmashenebeli Alley, Tbilisi

Deloitte & Touche L. Asatiani 36A, MLiberty Square,

For dire c t links to em b a s sy pa ge s pl eas e go to www.inyourpocket.com/tbilisi/directory, as some of them are long and complicated. Office hours of the embassies are listed, for consulate hours please contact the embassy or visit their websites. All embassies are closed on weekends. Armenia Tetelashvili 4, MMarjanishvili, tel. (+995 32) 295 17 23. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Austria Consulate I.Abashidze 46A, tel. (+995 32) 225 02 99. Azerbaijan 2nd block Kipshidze, building 1, tel. (+995 32) 225 35 26. Bulgaria Gorgasali 15, tel. (+995 32) 291 01 94. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. China Barnov 52, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 225 26 70. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 14:00 - 17:00. Czech Republic Chavchavadze Av. 37, building 6, tel. (+995) 32 291 67 40. QOpen 08:15 - 17:00, Fri 08:15 - 15:45. Denmark Consulate Niko Nikoladze 7, 2nd floor, tel. (+995) 32 99 81 15. Finland Consulate Chitadze 3A, tel. (+995) 32 247 35 55. France Krtsanissi 49, tel. (+995) 32 272 14 90. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Germany Telavi 20, Sheraton Metekhi Palace Hotel, M300 Aragveli, tel. (+995) 32 244 73 00. Q Open 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Great Britain Krtsanisi 51, tel. (+995) 32 227 47 47. Q Mon - Fri 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00. Greece T. Tabidze 37D, tel. (+995) 32 291 49 70. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Honorary Consulate of Belgium Kazbegi Av. 24, 13th floor, MDelisi, tel. (+995) 32 237 22 20.

tel. (+995) 790 90 11 98.

Mall, tel. (+995) 32 250 55 56, www.tbilisimall.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

Souvenirs There are a few items that are distinctly Georgian. Traditional drinking horns often tipped with silver or metal called Kantsi, hand made knives, large fluffy wool hats called Papakhi, Teka, felt textile goods, and of course Georgian wine. In addition, antiques and bric-a-brac are often relatively cheap and interesting.

Georgia Gifts B-1, Rustaveli Av. 26, MRustaveli. Essential stop on Rustaveli Av. if you have some souvenir shopping plans. There is a wide range of traditional Georgian souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Georgian corner C-2, Leselidze 30, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 577 40 50 81. Apart from souvenirs made in China, this place offers Georgian hand-made skarfs and great hand made wooden/woolen toys. Also at: Ierusalimi 6, Samgebro 5. QOpen 9:00 - 24:00. Georgia Souvenirs B-1, Rustaveli Av. 18, MLiberty Square. Another souvenir shop on Rustaveli Av. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Market on the Stairs F-4, Rustaveli Av. 52. A small street souvenir market where you can buy everything from oak horns (kantsi) to nice paintings of Tbilisi. Q From aroundn 10:00 until dark. N Samoseli Pirveli L-3, Chavchavadze Av. 22, tel. (+995) 32 223 43 63. Exclusive Georgian traditional clothes, which are perfectly done and more than just nice. Also at Chardin 1, tel. (+995) 32 223 89 36. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. A Tilde Khodasheni 4, tel. (+955) 555 38 14 76. Run by ladies from Ukraine, this little place is a new addition to the Old Town scene of cafes and souvenir shops. If you’re looking for something special to take home from Georgia, this is the place to come. They sell far more than take-home-trinkets. This is a shop for innovative original works of art, including clever mechanical sculptures that give new life to broken every-day objects. We really loved the sewing machine turned into animated figures and the old iron that is now a musical box. Tilde also works as a coffee shop. QOpen 9:00 - 21:00. PES

tel. (+995) 32 224 45 66, www.deloitte.com. Ernst & Young Kote Abkhazi 44, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 243 93 75, www.ey.com/GE/en. Grant Thornton Mamardashvili (Ardoni) 3, MMarjanishvili, tel. (+995) 32 260 44 06, www.grantthornton. ge/en. Leving Audit & Consulting Leonidze 8, tel. (+995) 593 59 95 59/(+995) 790 59 95 50, [email protected]. PricewaterhouseCoopers Bambis Rigi 7, tel. (+995) 32 250 80 50, www.pwc.com.

Banks Bank of Georgia Pushkin 3, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 244 44 44, bankofgeorgia.ge/en/home. ProCredit Bank Leselidze 22, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 220 22 22, www.procreditbank.ge. TBC Bank Leselidze 22, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 227 27 27, www.tbcbank.ge/en. VTB Bank Georgia Rustaveli Av. 16/18, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 224 24 24, www.en.vtb.ge.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce Lado Asatiani

36A, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 222 69 07, www. amcham.ge. Invest in Georgia National Agency Rustaveli Av. 8, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 228 11 94, enquiry@ investingeorgia.org, www.investingeorgia.org. Tbilisi Public Service Hall Sanapiro 2, tel. (+995) 32 240 54 05, www.house.gov.ge. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

• Accounting in accordance with IFRS/ISA • Audit in accordance with ISA • Tax advisory • Valuation • Financial advisory • Financial Planning • Incorporating international standards in accounting systems • Handling tax disputes

Sport & Outdoor Equipment MasterSport G-3, Marjanishvili 2, MMarjanishvili, tel. (+ 995) 32 247 15 13. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. A Xtreme Baliashvili 3, MDigomi, tel. (+995) 32 218 33 39. Also at Tsabadze 9, tel. (+995) 32 234 87 79. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00 A tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

[email protected] www.auditvega.com tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

#8 Leonidze St., Tbilisi, 0105, Georgia Tel: +(995) 593 59 95 59 / +(995) 790 59 95 50 August - October 2013

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directory Lifestyle Whether you are a traveller or an ex-pat, our directory contains many useful contacts for you. Remember to email us if you find any of our contacts particularly helpful or, for that matter, unhelpful. We also welcome new additions.

24-hour pharmacies Aversi Apotheke Pushkini 11, tel. (+995) 32 298 76 58, www.aversi.ge. Also at Kostava 11, Paliashvili 15, Melikishvili 8/2, Kostava 11 + over 100 other locations around Tbilisi QOpen 24hrs. GPC Apotheka Tabukashvili 2, tel. (+995) 895 33 74 00, www.gpc.ge. Also at Leonidze 8, Rustaveli Av. 1 6, Kostava 25, Chavchavadze 50. QOpen 24hrs.

Beauty salons Franck Provost Pekini Av. 28, MTechnical University, tel. (+995) 32 238 60 68, www.franckprovost.com. Health and Beauty Center Kostava 67, MTechnical University, tel. (+995) 32 245 45 93. Natali Melikishvili 6, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 293 89 16, www.natali.ge. Nefertiti Esthetic Center Pekini 15, MTechnical University, tel. (+995) 32 230 70 80, www.nefertiti.ge.

Dentists Beladent Kostava 72, MTechnical University, tel. (+995) 32 221 22 17, www.beladent.ge.

Dento Club Kazbegi Av. 14, MMedical University, tel. (+995) 32 214 18 14, www.dentoclub.ge.

Unident Aghmashenebeli Av. 126, MMarjanishvili,

tel. (+995) 32 294 03 94.

International schools British Connections Aleksidze 3, MTechnical

University, tel. (+995) 32 260 99 89, contact@ britishconnection.ge, www.britishconnection.ge. British-Georgian Academy Chavchavadze Av. 37, tel. (+995) 32 225 12 53, [email protected], www. bga.ge. Ecole Française du Caucase Chavchavadze 76B, tel. (+995) 32 229 47 71, www.efc.edu.ge. Deutsche Internationale Schule Tbilisi Shatberashvili 64, tel. (+995) 32 229 31 00, info@ deutscheschule.ge, www.deutscheschule.ge.

Georgian language schools Language Centre Georgia Vazha-Pshavela Av.

43/1, MDelisi, tel. (+995) 595 25 18 00, info@ georgiancourses.com, www.georgiancourses.com. Lingua House Abashidze 25, tel. (+995) 32 294 57 07. TSU Language Centre Chavchavadze Av. 36, Vth building, 2nd floor, 231 room, tel. (+995) 32 225 30 48.

Private clinics Aversi Clinic Vazha-Pshavela Av. 27B, MMedical University, tel. (+995) 32 296 72 27, www. aversi.ge. IMSS Makashvili 31, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 292 09 28, www.imss.ge. Medi Club Tashkenti 22A, MMedical University, tel. (+995) 32 225 19 91, www.mediclubgeorgia.ge. Tbilisi In Your Pocket

Street register Hungary Lvovi 83, MMedical University, tel. (+995)

32 239 90 08. Iran Skhvitaradze 16, MMedical University, tel. (+995) 32 298 69 90. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 17:30. Israel Aghmashenebeli Av. 154, MStation Square, tel. (+995) 32 255 65 00. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Italy Chitadze 3A, tel. (+995) 32 299 64 18. QOpen 09:15 - 17:00. Kazakhstan Shatberashvili 23, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 299 76 84. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30. Latvia Akhmeta 16, M300 Aragveli, tel. (+995) 32 224 48 58. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Lithuania Tengiz Abuladze 25, tel. (+995) 32 291 29 33. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Fri 09:00 - 16:45. Netherlands Telavi 20, Sheraton Metechi Palace Hotel, M300 Aragveli, tel. (+995) 32 227 62 00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Poland Dzmebi Zubalashvilebi 19, MRustaveli, tel. (+995) 32 292 03 98. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Romania Lvov 7, MMedical University, tel. (+995) 32 238 53 10. Slovenia Consulate D. Aghmashenebeli Av. 148, MMarjanishvili, tel. (+995) 32 292 03 98. Sweden Kipshidze 15, tel. (+995) 32 255 03 20. QOpen 09:00 - 12:30. Switzerland Krtsanisi 11, tel. (+995) 32 275 30 01. QOpen 09:00 - 12:30. Turkey Chavchavadze Av. 35, tel. (+995) 32 225 20 72. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Ukraine Oniashvili 75, MMedical University, tel. (+995) 32 231 11 61. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. United States of America George Balanchini 11, MSarajishvili, tel. (+995) 32 227 70 00. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00.

International organisations Council of Europe Dzmebi Kakabadzeebi 26, tel. (+995) 32 291 38 70, www.coe.ge.

European Union N. Chkheidze 38, tel. (+995) 32 294 37 63, www.eeas.europa.eu.

UN House Eristavi 9, tel. (+995) 32 225 11 26, www.

undp.org.ge. The UN House hosts all UN projects in Georgia, i.e. UN, UNICEF, UNDP etc. USAID George Balanchine 11, MSarajishvili, tel. (+995) 32 254 40 00, www.georgia.usaid.gov.

Real estate Makler.Ge L. Asatiani 23, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995 32) 247 10 20, www.makler.ge. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Rentals Rustaveli Av. 46, MRustaveli, tel. (+ 995) 32 245 45 66, www.rentals.ge.

Translators & Interpreters ITM-Translation Chavchavadze Av. 22, 2nd floor, tel. (+995) 32 294 46 54, www.itm-translation.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Translate service G. Tabidze 3/5, MLiberty Square, tel. (+995) 32 299 05 77, www.translateservice.ge. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

To advertise in Business Directory contact our sales at (+995) 555 43 80 45 tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

1st May Sq. E-2, M-1 9 April B-2, G-6 A. Benashvili H-3 A. Chavchavadze J/L-2 A. Griboedov A-1, F/G-5 A. Katalikosi C-2, H-6 A. Saiatnova C-3, H-6 Abano D-3, I-7 Abasheli K-3 Abashidze J/K-2, L-3 Abastumani F/G-1 Abo Tbilieli C-3, H-7 Aboviani C-3, H-7 Abuladze K-2 Akaki Khorava E-4, M-3 Akhaltsikhe H-3 Akuri M-1 Aleqsandre Diuma C-2, H-6 Amaghleba B-3, F-6 Amaghleba Turn B-3, F-6 Anaklia H-3 Anjaparidze E-3, M-2 Anton Purtseladze B-2, C-1, G/H-6 Arakishvili F/G-3 Archil Jorjadze B-1, G-5 Armazi D-2, I-6 Arsena B-1/2, G-5/6 Askani С-3, H-7 Ateni L-2 Avlevi C-2, H-6 Bakhtrioni K/L-1 Bakradze E/F-4, M-3 Baku F/G-2 Bambis Rigi D-3, H-7 Baratashvili C-2, H-6 Barnov E/F-3, L/M-3 Basaleti L-3 Beridze B-2, G-6 Besiki B-1, G-5 Besiki Sq. A-2, G-6 Betlemi C/D-3, H-7 Borbalo A-1, F-5 Borjomi F-2 Botanikuri D-3, H/I-7 Burkiashvili L-3 Chankhrukhadze C-2, H-6 Chavchavadze Av. J/L-2 Chekhov D-3, I-7 Chikobava H-3/4 Chitaia H-2/3 Chkheidze F-3 Chovelidze F-4, M-3 Chubinashvili G-1/3 D. Aghmashenebeli Av. F-2, G-3/4 D. Kipiani A-2, F/G-6 D. Zubalashvilebi A-1, F-5/6 Daniel Chonqadze B-2/3, G-6/7 Dariani I-2 Dgebuadze F-3 Djibaladze C-3, H-7 Dodo Abashidze H-4 Dolidze L-1 Dusheti D-2, I-6 Dzmebi Kakabadzeebi F-5 E. Zadgenidze Turn A-1, F-5 Elbakidze F-3/4 Erekle II C-2, H-6 Eristavi L-3 Eristav-Koshtaria E-4, M-3 G. Eristavi H-3 G. Kuchishvili E-3/4, M-3 Gabashvili F-5 G. Tabidze C-2/3, G-6/7 Gergeti B-2/3 Geronti Qiqodze B-3

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Ghambashidze E-3, M-3 Gia Chanturia B-1 Giorgi Leonidze B-2 Gmirebi L-3 Gogebashvili E-4, M-3 Gogol G-2 Gomi C-3, H-7 Gori Lane F-1 Grigor Khandzeteli C-3, H-6/7 Heroes Sq. E-3, M-2 Hippodrome J/K-1 Hospital 9 Area K-2 I. Nikoladze E-3, M-2/3 Ierusalimi C-3, H-7 Ierusalimi Turn C-3, H-7 Ikalto L-1 Ioseb Grishashvili D-3, I-7 Ivane Machabeli B-3, G-6/7 Janashvili L-3 Javakhishvili G-2/3 Jorbenadze D-3, I-7 Jvania L-3 K. Tsamebuli Av. D-2/3, I-6 Kaviashvili C-2, H-6 Kavsadze K-2 Kekelidze L/M-3 Kiacheli F-4 Kiev G/H -4 Kipshidze K-2 Kldiashvili G-3 Knilov F/G-2 Kobachidze F-4 Kobuleti L-3 Kojori A/B-3, F/G-7 Kostava E-3, F-4, M-2 Kostava lane E-3 Sergo Meskhi A/B-3, F/G-7 Kote Marjanishvili G-3/4 Kuchishvili E-3/4, M-3 Kuftiani C-2, H-6 Kurdiani F-1 Kus Tba J-3 Lado Asatiani B/C-3, G-7 Lado Gudiashvili Sq. C-3, H-7 Laghidze B-1, G-5 Larsi M-3 Leselidze (Kote Afkhazi) C-2/3, D-3 Lesia Ukrainka B-1 Likhauri K/L-1 Likhauri Lane L-1 Likhi A-1, F-5 M. Tsinamdzghvnishvili G-2/3, H-4 M. Zichi B-1, G-5 Machavariani M-3 Maria Brose G-5 Maro Makashvili Rise A-3, F-7 Melikishvili E-4, M-3 Meliton and Andria Balanchivadze L-1/2, M-1 Metekhi D-3, I-7 Metekhi Bridge D3, I-7 Mgkhvimeli M-2 Mikheil Zandukeli H/F-1 Mikheil Lermontov B/C-3, G/H-7 Mirza Fatali D-3, I-7 Mirza Shafi D-3, I-7 Mosashvili J-2, K-2 Mosidze B-2, G-6 Mtsatsminda A-2, F-6 Mtsatsminda Turn A-2, F-6 Mtskheta L-3 Mukhadze J-2, K-2 N. Nikoladze F-4 N. Vachnadze C-2, G/H-6

Napareuli L-3 Natakhtari L-1 Niaghvari L-1 Nikoladze H-3 Ninoshvili G-2, G/H-3 Nishnianidze C-2, H-6 Nugzar Sajia K-2 Odzelashvili A-1, F-5 Oqroyana A-3, F-7 Orpiri D-3, H-7, I-7 Ovanes Tumaniani C-3, D-3, H-7 P. Kakabadze A-1, F-5 Paliashvili K-2, L-3 Panaskertel-Tsitsishvili K/L-1 Pankisi L-1 Paolo Iashvili B-2/3, G-6/7 Pavle Ingorokva B-2, G-6 Peace Bridge D-2, H-6 Pekini Av. L-1, M-1 Peritsvaleba D-3, I-7 Peritsvaleba lane D-3, I-7 Perovskaya (Akhvlediani) F-4 Petre Chaiakovski B-2, G-6 Petriashvili M-3 Pkhova C-1, H-5 Platon L-2 Pushkin C-2, H-6 Radiani L-3 Ramishvili L-2 Razmadze K-3 RiseItalia K-3 Ritsa A-1, F-5 Rkinis Rigi D-3, H-7 Rustaveli Av. B-1/2, G-5/6 S. Brdzeni D-3, I-7 S. Zhghenti A-1, F-5 Saguramo F-1 Samghebro D-3, H/I-7 Savaneli A/B-3 Sergo Meskhi A-3, B-3, H-7, I-7 Shalva Dadiani C-2/3, H-6/7 Shanidze M-3 Sharashidze M-3 Shardeni C-3, H-7 Shatbarashvili 2nd Turn L-3 Shatberashvili L-3

Shavteli C-2, H-6 Shkhefi A-3 Shota Chitadze B-2, G-6 Simon Janashia E-4, M-3 Sioni C-3, H-7 Sololaki Alley B/C-3, G/H-7 St David Rise A-2, F-6 Sulkhan-Saba B-2, G-6 Sultanishani C-2, H-6 Surami G-2 T. Tabidze J/K-3 T. Zhordania B-1, G-5 Tabukashvili B-1, G-5 Taktakishvili K-2 Tamar Mepe Av. F-2, G-1/2 Tamarashvili Av. J-2 Taras Shevchenko B-1, G-5 Tarieli A-1, F-5 Tarkhnishvili M-3 Tatishvili M-3 Tergi M-3 Tetelashvili G-3 Tsinaubani L-2 Tsintsadze K/L-1 Tskhevedadze J/K-3 Tsurtaveli I-7 Tuskia L-1 Ukleba B-2, G-6 Uznadze G-3 V. Barnov E-4, F-4 V. Beridze B-2, G-6 V. Gunia E-6 V. Kotetishvili B-2, G-6 V. Petriashvili M-3 V. Sarajishvili F-5 Varazi E-3 Vedzini F-5 Vere Valley Highway J/K-1, K-2, L/M-2 Vertskhli C-2, H-6 Virsaladze G-5 Z. Chavchavadze G-3 Z. Chichinadze B-1, G-5/6 Zaal Kikodze A-1, F-5 Zurab Zhvania B-1, G-5

Old Town from Meidani Square

August - October 2013

49

1

3

2

1

hvili Av.

3

2

J

Vake scale 1: 17000

a an roy

Vake Park

e

Turtle Lake

Kus Tba

Tskheve dadze

Be

i sik

itad Ch

N

Sava neli

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Tur

adze

Tskheved

adze

dze T. Tabi d

R az m a

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K

li she Aba

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Palias hv

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Ateni

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Turn

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Shari s RRkigi in

Peace Bridge

Ver eV alle

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Tergi

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Sa

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k ete

Citadel Narikala

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Technical University

t le m Go i mi

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us

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Be

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Ko buleti Burkiash vili

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Gmirebi Shatbarashvili 2nd

Aboviani

iatnova

n an Melito

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Av.

L

i Ierusalim

Ch a vcha vadz e

e

Abo

A. S a

dze eri

ikosi t al Ka

o t A. eA fk h #12

Ambassadori

Kaviashvili

Villa Mtiebi SKAdaVELI

dze Leselidze ( K

Sololaki Alley

Tsintsadze

Likhauri

Panaskertel-Tsitsishvili

ni

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C

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Lado Gudiashvili Sq.

Mikheil Lermontov

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Courtyard by Marriott

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Liberty Square

l pri 9A

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9 April Park

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St David Rise

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Old town scale 1: 8400

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Tamaras

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Betsy’s Hotel

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1st May Sq.

Technical University

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City map scale 1: 17000

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Vere Palace Sha rash idze

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V. Gunia

British House

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Sololaki Alley

i Ierusalim

Djibala

Aboviani

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dze eri

ikosi t al Ka

o t A. eA fk h #12

Ambassadori

Kaviashvili

Villa Mtiebi SKAdaVELI

anidze hni N is vi Avle

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ni

H

he sik a lt ili Ak h shv na Be A.

tavi G. Eris

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Gudiashvili Sq.

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ze onid

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Courtyard by Marriott

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Liberty Square

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9 April Park

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Tbilisi (Central) Station

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3

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Holiday Inn Tbilisi

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Peace Bridge

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m

tek

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Citadel Narikala

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Mtkvari (Ku

Mir za Fatali Akhu d

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Tbilisi Hostel

© Tbilisi In Your Pocket, 2013 li

700 m

Sheraton Metechi Palace

ash vil i Tsu rta ve

Chekhov S. Brdzen i Jorbenadz e

Perits

Old Metekhi

Me

Av. Perits va leb

ebul i

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Mi

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C n Sio

b

ovi

Gor

gol Go e lidz

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ili shv i na ub Ch Do Chita

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Lake Sevan

Zod

AZERBAIJAN

G äncä

41 °

Kü

Agstafa

r (K

ur a )

Dedoplis Tsqaro Davit Gareji

Sevan

ARMENIA

Hrazdan 50 mi

75 km 50

25

T U R K E Y

National capital Autonomous repub lic capital Town, village Major air port International boundar y Autonomous repub lic boundar y Main road Secondar y road Railroad 41 °

GEORGIA

0

0

25

Vanadzor Gyumri

Kazreti Ninotsminda

Akhalkalaki

Vale -javakheti

Khulo

AJARA Batumi

Keda

Ozurgeti Kobuleti

Lake Paravani

Marneuli Bolnisi

Kvemo Kartli

ur a)

Shida Kartli

Bakuriani Atskuri Lake Samtskhe Tabatskuri

Bakhmaro

Baghdati

GURIA

42 °

BLACK SEA

Mingachevir Resevoir

Zaqatala

Io Gurjaani Sighnaghi Tsnori Rustavi

Lagodekhi

KAKHETI

Tbilisi

Mtskheta

ri

Abastumani

Khashuri

Borjomi

Tskhinvali Lanchkhuti

Chokhatauri Supsa

IMERETI

Zestaponi

ila vir Chiatura Kutaisi Poti

Khobi

Tskhaltubo Senaki Rion i Samtredia Anaklia

Gori Mtkv ar i (K

Dusheti

Akhalgori

Kurta

Mleta

SOUTH OSSETIA Pichori

Telavi

Akhmeta Ala

a

Archilo

Pasanauri

n 5047 m

u Kazbegi o

Khvanchkara Kvaisi Rioni Ambrolauri Tqibuli

Gali

Tqvarcheli Gulripsh

Sukhumi 43 °

Novyy Afon

ABKHAZIA

Gudauta

Pitsunda

Tsalenjhikha Zugdidi

Samegrelo-zemo Svaneti Lentekhi Racha-Lechkhumi M Jvari and Kvemo Svaneti

Otap Lata ori

c Gagra

Ochamchira

a

Khaishi

s

Omarishara

uri Ing

u

Mestia

s

Dykh-Tau 5203 m

Nal'chik

El'brus 5642 m

R U S S I A N

u

a

Lake Ritsa

Bzyb ' Pskhu

41 °

Mtskheta-Mtianeti t

Vladikavkaz

F E D E R A T I O N

45 °

Terek

Mozdok 44 °

Prokhladnyy

43 °

Kuba n'

42 °

Karachayevsk

Ko d

Ps ou

C

Arag v i

Q

40 °

zan

i

i

Qvareli

46 °

n

GEORGIA

s

Balak än

42 °

43 °

Index 11/11 26 Acid Bar 32 Adidas 46 Adjara 34 A. Griboedov Russian State Drama Theatre 14 Ajarian House 44 Akura 41 Ali & Nino 45 Alpclub 41 Alphabet Tower 45 Althaus Tea Room 29 Ambasadori 19 American Chamber of Commerce 47 Amirani 14 Apollo 14 Armenia 47 Art-Café 144 Stairs 27 Art Hostel 22 Astra Park 41 Austria Consulate 47 Aversi Apotheke 48 Aversi Clinic 48 Avis 6 Azerbaijan 47 Baccarat 46 Bank of Georgia 47 Bar Laboratorium 32 Batumi World Palace 44 Beladent 48 Ben Chalero Café of 7 Tastes 26 Berika 39 Betsy's Hotel 19 Biblus 46 Black Buddha 45 Boombully Rooms and Hostel 22 Bowling Central 41 Bread House 23 Bremen 45 Brighton 44 British Connections 48 British Council 14 British-Georgian Academy 48 British House 20 Buddha Bar 24 Buffet 27 Bulgaria 47 Burberry 46 Café de France 24 Café Flowers 26 Café Gallery 33 Café Hemingway 24 Café Rennes 44 Canudos Ethnic Bar 32 Cars4rent 6 Caucasus Travel 39 CCCP 32 Château Mukhrani Wine Studio 13 China 47 China Town 27 Chopard 46 Chronograph 46 Cigar House 27 Citadel Narikala 20 Citadiness Freedom Square Tbilisi 20 Colonnades 45 Colour Tour Georgia 39 Concord Travel 39 Consulate of Sweden 48 Council of Europe 48 Courtyard by Marriott Tbilisi 18 Culinarium - Cooking School 27 Czech Republic 47

tbilisi.inyourpocket.com

Dancing Fountains 45 Daraberi 45 Deloitte & Touche 47 Denmark Consulate 47 Dento Club 48 DHL 10 Didube 5 Divan 34 Dive Bar 32 DownTown 26 Dublin Irish Pub 32 D’Vine 44 Dynasty 14 Ecole Française du Caucase 48 Elvis American Dinner 24 Era Palace 44 Ermenegildo Zegna 46 Ernst & Young 47 Escada 46 Espresso Sinatra Bar 45 Europcar 6 European Union 48 Fan Fan 44 FedEx 10 Finland Consulate 47 France 47 Franck Provost 48 Frey Wille 46 Funicular Complex 26 Gabriadze Café 23 Gabriadze Theatre 14 Georgia Gifts 46 Georgian corner 46 Georgia Souvenirs 46 Germany 47 GIG Taxi 7 Goethe Institute 14 Goodwill 46 GPC Apotheka 48 Grand Gourmet 46 Grant Thornton 47 Great Britain 47 Greece 47 Grill On Plekhanov 23 Hayartun Armenian Cultural Centre 14 Health and Beauty Center 48 Hertz 6 Highlander 39 Hillel House 14 Holiday Inn Tbilisi 18 Honorary Consulate of Belgium 47 House of Khinkali 28 Hugo Boss 46 Hungary 48 IMSS 48 Institut Français 14 International House Tbilisi 14 Ioli 46 Iran 48 Israel 48 Istanbul 21 Italy 48 ITM-Translation 48 Iveria 34 Kala Café 26 Kazakhstan 48 KGB 33 Kopala 20 Kutaisi International Airport 5 Kyoto 27 La Brioche 44 Laguna Vere 41 Lako Bukia 46 Language Centre Georgia 48

Latvia 48 Leffe 33 Levan 47 Lingua House 48 Linville 24 Lithuania 48 Makler.Ge 48 Mandari 28 Marco Polo 44 Marjanishvili Theater 14 Market on the Stairs 46 Masmidzelo 45 MasterSport 46 Medi Club 48 Meridian Express (UPS) 10 Mimino 45 Mirzaani 23 Miziuri Park 40, 45 Monsieur Jordan 29 Monte Carlo Apart Hotel 44 Mtatsminda Amusment Park 41 Mtkvarze 34 Münich 45 Music and Drama State Theatre 14 Nabadi - Georgian Folklore Theatre 14 Narikala Hill 23 Natali 48 Naxvamdis 33 Nefertiti Esthetic Center 48 Nest Hostel 22 Netherlands 48 Oat Gallery & Art Café 144 14 O. Galogre 44 Old Melekhi 21 Old Metekhi 24 Old Ship 45 Olympic 41 Organique Josper Bar 26 Ortachala 5 Parnas 46 Pastoral 24 Pelican 7 People’s Bar & Restaurant 24 Piazza Boutique Hotel 44 Pink Taxi 7 Pokany 46 Poland 48 Pomodorissimo Café 27 Populi 46 Post Office №2 10 Post Office №14 10 Post office №44 10 Post Office №60 10 Post office №79 10 President Plaza 44 PricewaterhouseCoopers 47 ProCredit Bank 47 Prospero's 46 Prospero's Books & Caliban's Coffee Shop 28 Quiet Woman Pub 45 Racha 28 Radisson Blu Batumi 44 Radisson Blu Iveria 18 Rentals 48 Romania 48 Rustaveli 14 Rustaveli Theatre 14 Rustavi International Motorpark 41 Sakartvelo 14 Samgori 5 Samikitno Machakhela 24 Samoseli Pirveli 46

Samt Travel 39 Shangri La 34 Sheraton Batumi 44 Sheraton Metechi Palace 18 Sixt 6 Sky Bar 33 Slovenia 48 Smart 46 Sulphur Baths on Kiev street 28 Switzerland 48 Taj Mahal 28 Taxi.ge 7 TBC Bank 47 Tbilisi Central 46 Tbilisi Central Station 6 Tbilisi Concert Hall 14 Tbilisi Hostel 22 Tbilisi International Airport 5 Tbilisi Mall 46 Tbilisi Marriott 18 Tbilisi Public Service Hall 47 Tbilisi State Conservatoire 14 Tbilisi Zoo 41 Thai 28 The Hangar Bar 33 Tilde 46 TNT 10 Translate service 48 TSU Language Centre 48 Turkey 48 Ukraine 48 Underground discos 28 UN House 48 Unident 48 Unique 34 United States of America 48 USAID 48 Vake Swimming Pool and Fitness Centre 41 Vakhtanguri 28 Vanda 14 Vere Palace 20 Villa Mtiebi 21 VTB Bank Georgia 47 Why Not? Batumi 44 Why not? Tbilisi 22 Winary Khareba 13 Wine 13 Wine Shop 13, 28 Xtreme 46 Zarapxana 46

August - October 2013

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Working Hours: Every day from 12:00 - 20:00 (15:00 - 16:00 break) Information: +995 32 295 35 82 Tickets are sold online on web - site: www.biletebi.ge

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