Tallinn In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Tallinn June - July 2014

Kalamaja

Visit the hip and trendy artistic district inyourpocket.com N°96- €2.50

Viimsi

Tallinn’s lovely northern neighbour

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

the Basics

6

Helpful things everyone should know

arriving & transport

arriving Getting here is half the fun

8

transport Navigating Tallinn

9

culture & events

14

Major events, cinemas, art galleries and more

kalamaja - tallinn’s artistic district

21

The hip and happening neighbourhood

sightseeing

the old town The medieval centre in a nutshell

24

sightseeing tours By bus, by bike or by tram

26

museums Covering city history, from tunnels to airplanes

28

kadriorg Stroll in Tallinn’s most beautiful park

36

rocca al mare Home to the zoo, open air museum and more

38

around tallinn

40

Don’t stop at the city border

viimsi - the great coastal getaway

41

Tallinn’s lovely northern neighbour

active tallinn

48

Take action

restaurants

51

From sushi to sült

cafés

76

The hottest places in the caffeine scene

nightlife

78

Find your perfect party

hotels

94

A bed for every budget

shopping

106

Cool souvenirs and fashion purchases

directory

115

From dental care to shoe repair

maps & index Old Town map City centre map Street index facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

119 120 - 121 122 June - July 2014

3

Foreword Tallinn certainly has its charm any time of year, during summer months however the city truly becomes alive. The many terraces are filled with a certain bustle, locals and visitors alike enjoy cold beverages while basking in the long awaited sunshine and naturally the heavy winter clothes give way to much more appealing apparel options.

E S S E N TI A L

Publication details I TY G U I D E S publisher LinnajuhtC OÜ printed by Reusner, Tallinn published 9,000 - 12,000 copies, 6 times per year ISSN 1406-2690 © OÜ Linnajuht Company Office & Accounts Vana-Viru 4, 10111 Tallinn, Estonia Tel/fax. +372 644 64 70 [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com Accountant Marian Puusepp

Just north of the city you’ll also find the quaint Viimsi area (p.41) - brimming with nature and a relaxed personality all its own.

Editorial editor In Chief Nat A. Singer Contributing editor Steve Roman Contributor Wendee Luke researcher Irja Luks Designer Küllike Johannson-Singer photography Küllike Johannson-Singer and Nat A. Singer unless otherwise stated. Cover © Nat A. Singer Sales & Circulation senior Account Manager / Circulation Marek Pärn Account Manager Irja Luks

Whatever brings you to Tallinn or its surroundings, we’re sure that you’ll leave with many wonderful memories.

cover sTory The cover of this issue of Tallinn In Your Pocket features a couple of the personalities that make Olde Hansa one of the musteat-at spots in Tallinn. The medieval eatery has become an institution in this ancient city. Photo taken by our editor-in-chief, Nat A. Singer.

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Linnajuht OÜ. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

AbouT iyP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4

Tallinn In Your Pocket

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). tallinn.inyourpocket.com

SHOES ARE ON TOP Shopping center Viru Keskus turns your view of a shoe world upside down.

Viru Keskus • Viru väljak 4 • 10111 Tallinn, Estonia • virukeskus.com

The natural draw of Tallinn and definitely the main reason people visit is the medieval Old Town and her historic beauty. That being said, there are so many other reasons to spend a little time in this gem of a city. From the sandy beaches to the green parks, the blossoming gardens of Kadriorg (p.36) or the bohemian district of Kalamaja (p.21) - Tallinn has certainly become much more than a former Hanseatic town.

Basics

Basics Here are some helpful tips on how best to avoid some embarrassing situations while spending your time in Tallinn.

cusToms European alcoholics rejoice! When you leave Estonia headed to another EU country, you can take out as much booze as you can carry (or convince inspectors is for your personal use). Coming into Estonia from another EU country, each individual aged 18 and over may carry in duty-free 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer and 10 litres of hard alcohol (over 21%alc/vol), 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars and 1kg of pure tobacco. When leaving, beware of stricter tobacco restrictions if you’re headed to the UK, Sweden or Finland. Relatively unlucky travellers from nonEU countries can carry in a measly 4 litres of wine (not exceeding €175 in combined value), 2 litres of beverages up to 21%alc/vol and 1 litre of hard alcohol; 40 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 50g pure tobacco. How much booze and smokes you can take home depends on your own country’s restrictions. For more information, contact the Customs Department, Narva mnt. 9j, tel. 880 08 14, [email protected], www.emta.ee.

unfavourable rates and even many charge a heavy commission on each transaction - even when they state in big bold letters ‘No Commission’, ie. read the fine print.

bAsic dATA Tallinn Population: 430,772 (as of 01.03.2014) Density: 2,709.3 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 52.5%, Russians 38.5%, Ukrainians 3.7%, Others 5.4% Estonia Population: 1,354,679 (as of 01.01.2014) Territory: 45,227km2 Density: 29.9 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.7%, Russians 24.8%, Ukrainians 1.7%, Others 4.8% Elevation: The highest point in Estonia (and the Baltics) is Suur Munamägi (318m) in Võru County Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2 Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433, Kohtla-Järve 37,201. Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October.

geTTing cAsh You should have no problems filling your wallet in Tallinn cash machines (ATMs) are never hard to find. Big banks are usually your best bet for exchanging currency. At night and on weekends, however, decent exchanges are more elusive. Tavid at Aia 5 has good rates, especially when changing somewhat larger amounts and also runs an all-night exchange window that will do in a pinch. Their night rates are higher than daytime rates though. Another place that offers very good rates is Eurex at Viru väljak 4 (Viru Centre). Although there aren’t as many as there used to be, beware of some of the various small exchanges around town. These have convenient locations and working hours, but generally give

TourisT informATion tourist information centre The city’s official tourist information point is the best equipped to answer any question.QC-2, Niguliste 2/ Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 645 77 77, fax (+372) 645 77 78, [email protected], www.tourism.tallinn. ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00, sat, sun 09:00 - 18:00. Till June 14 open 09:00 - 19:00, sat - sun 09:00 - 17:00. J

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Tallinn In Your Pocket

free inTerneT for All By now, most have heard that Estonia is indeed a pretty tech-savy country. In fact much of the country is blanketed in WiFi or wireless internet hotspots. From long-distance buses to cafeś, pubs and even some shops and public areas - WiFi is everywhere. For foreigners visiting Tallinn this means you’ll be able to check e-mails, SKYPE with friends back home or share photos on Facebook using your Android phone, iPhone or Blackberry - free of charge. Just look for the orange and black WiFi sign and you’re good to go. With all that free WiFi around, you’ll also want to purchase the Tallinn In Your Pocket iPhone app available here. In Estonia, WiFi information including WiFi locations is provided by www.WiFi.ee. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

lAnguAge Confused? Join the crowd. Estonian is completely unrelated to Russian, Latvian, Swedish, German or any other Indo-European tongue. Along with Finnish and Hungarian, Estonian belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages, thought to have originated somewhere beyond the Urals thousands of years ago. Luckily, the younger generation and those in the tourist industry speak English. You can find some of the more essential words and phrases on the opposite page.

religion Some locals will tell you that Estonians are all treeworshiping pagans at heart, but the truth is that this isn’t a very religious country at all. There is no state religion, and according to the 2000 census, only 31.8% of the population claims any religious affiliation. Of those that do, about 180,000 are Lutheran and 170,000 Russian Orthodox.

nATionAl holidAys January 1 February 24 April 18 (2014) April 20 (2014) May 1 June 23 June 24 August 20 December 24 December 25

New Year’s Day Independence Day (1918) Good Friday Easter Sunday May Day Victory Day St. John’s Day (Midsummer) Day of Restoration of Independence (1991) Christmas Eve Christmas Day

king a purchase just present your passport, ask for a taxfree stamp on your receipt and take receipts along with unused purchases to the customs office at the airport or border-crossings into Russia when you leave the country. At the airport, anything checked into luggage will need to be claimed at Customs before you enter the security gates, items in your hand luggage can be claimed from the Customs booth between gates 5 and 7. Visit www.globalrefund.com for more details.

TAx free shoPPing ‘Tax-free’ shopping is finally starting to gain popularity in Estonia and if you are a non-EU resident and plan to spend over €38 on electronics, clothing or even souvenirs - it just might be worth trying to claim the tax back. When ma-

Public ToileTs Study your geometry to avoid an embarrassing situation: A triangle pointing down signifies the men’s room (M or Meeste), while the triangle pointing up is the women’s room (N or Naiste). Visitors with pressing needs won’t be left with their legs crossed, as there are quite a few public toilets around the city. Some can be found at the Viru Gate on Valli (C-3) and there’s a Swedish-built automatic WC on Toompea Hill (C-1), nicknamed locally the ‘million-crown toilet’ due to the public outcry at its construction bill. It can be found next to the Nevski Cathedral (C/D-1). There’s also a few new high-tech, self-cleaning ones around the city. The most central is right next to Tammsaare Park (C-3), and others can be found at; Toompark near Balti Jaam (B-1), Police Garden (H-3, on Gonsiori street), Kanuti Garden (B-4), Piiskopi Garden (C-1) and in Kadriorg next to the Roheline aas Street parking lot (H-4). However, the fear of being trapped inside may deter the more easily frightened, no matter how badly they need to ‘pee’. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

mAking The cAll Calling within Estonia To call any number within Estonia, either from a fixed line or a local mobile, just dial the number as it’s written. There are no city codes in Estonia. Mobile numbers Estonian mobile numbers all begin with ‘5’. Just dial the number as is. Again, there are no special codes. Calling Estonia from abroad Estonia’s country code is +372. Just dial your international access code (00 from most European countries), then 372 then the number, be it mobile or land line. That’s it. Roaming To call any telephone in Estonia from a foreign mobile account, dial +372 followed by the number, as outlined before. Calling abroad from Estonia Dial 00, the country code, then the rest of the numbers. June - July 2014

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Arriving & Transport

Arriving & Transport

As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city. The passenger port and train station are both within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away. Tallinn is basically a large village and getting from one end of the city to the other is usually fairly quick and easy - compared to most international standards of course. Here we have listed all of the different ways you can navigate the city - and in some cases even beyond.

Arriving in Tallinn By bus Buses arrive at the bus station (autobussijaam), (H-5), just off the main highway from Tartu, but Lux Express passengers coming in from Riga or Vilnius should strongly consider hopping off at the much more central Viru väljak stop (ask other passengers where), rather than continuing on to the bus station itself. Once at the station, you’ll find left luggage in the basement. The cash-only currency exchange takes all major currencies, including Russian roubles, but gives appallingly bad rates. The ATM by the main entrance is probably a better bet. Getting to town The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tänav from behind the station. Buses N°17 and 23 leave directly from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse väljak (4th stop) in the centre, while tram N°2 run from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru väljak (4th stop), also in the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about €6. By car Crossing the border from Latvia is completely hassle-free now that the Baltics belong to Schengen. Getting over the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. In both cases, be sure to bring your car’s registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card. You can also buy insurance right at the border station. Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h, in the cities 50km/h, unless otherwise noted, and the headlights have to be always turned on. For fares and regulations on bringing a car by ship from Finland or Sweden, contact the ferry companies in the ‘Getting around’ section of the guide. By plane Tallinn’s airport may be a super-modern affair, but it’s so small you’re never in danger of getting lost. Once past the luggage receiving area, you’ll find ATMs and currency exchange in the centre of the hall; toilets and car rental offices are downstairs. Getting to town A taxi ride to the centre roughly costs €10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N°2 just outside the airport to the down town Viru Centre. Bus leaves approximately every 20 minutes from 06:30 until midnight. Single ride ticket costs €1.60 and can be bought from the driver. Alternately you can opt for the airport 8 Tallinn In Your Pocket

shuttle that will take you anywhere within Tallinn’s city centre for a fee of €18, for up to 7 people. Tickets for the shuttle should be purchased near the flight gates or after you’ve picked up your luggage at the desk with the ‘shuttle flag’. By ship Most ferries and catamarans arrive at the Passenger Port (reisisadam), terminals A, B and D. Left luggage and a helpful information booth can be found in the main hall of terminal A. Exchange offices are plentiful but not always economical. ATMs are just as easy to find. Terminal D, located just across the small neck of water, has similar services. Lindaline’s boats arrive at the neighbouring Linnahall Speedboat Harbour, where a currency exchange booth is open whenever boats are arriving. Rates here are decent. Getting to town You can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover the short ride to town for €4 - 5. By train Arriving by train at Tallinn’s Balti Jaam (B-1) puts you just a couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. Since renovations the station itself is no longer a Soviet-era relic and now includes a small grocery store, a nice restaurant and even a day spa, in case you need to unwind after your journey. Left luggage is in the back of the main hall, just off the breeze-way that leads to the platforms. The exchange booth (across from left luggage) offers decent rates on all Scandinavian, Baltic and Russian currencies. ATMs are just next to the front doors. Getting to town Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne tänav into Old Town, or take trams N°1 or 2 from behind the station three stops to the Mere pst. stop. Avoid the taxis that wait here. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Public transport

Taxis

Tallinn’s public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trolley-buses and trams, all of which use the same ticketing-system. As of January 2013 public transport is free to all residents of Tallinn, making it the first European capital city to implement such a system. Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown areas, whereas buses are mainly for getting to outlying neighbourhoods. From the centre, most major bus routes leave from the terminal under the Viru Centre, or from Vabaduse Väljak (Freedom Square). You can easily hop on a tram in several places adjacent to Old Town. Routes and schedules are also listed in English at soiduplaan.tallinn. ee/#tallinna-linn/map/en where you can also find a handy route planner to help you navigate your way through Tallinn’s pubic transport system. Detailed route maps are also posted at many public transport stops and stations.

Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and next the Drama theatre just outside Old Town, but grabbing a taxi on the street, especially those parked in Old Town, is the best way to get ripped off. Always check the prices first, which should posted on the taxi’s right rear window. Taxis typically charge a starting fee and begin racking up the kilometre charges immediately. When in doubt, you can agree on a price to your destination with the driver before you get in. Ordering a taxi by phone is always the best strategy, as you’ll avoid the dishonest taxis that prey on tourists. Note that the second (short) telephone numbers listed here will work from all Estonian fixed and mobile lines, but if you’re calling from a foreign mobile, you need to dial the regular seven-digit number. Here is a list of taxi companies along with their daytime base fares and per-kilometre rates. Night time rates can be about 20% more. For more info please go to: http://www.tourism.tallinn.ee/ eng/fpage/travelplanning/transportation/taxi

When climbing on board, in 98% of cases, you can just hop on any door, i.e. you don’t have to show your ticket to the driver. The rare exception is a few buses that have ‘no-entry’ signs on their rear doors. If you see this sign and the door doesn’t open, head to the front and buy a ticket from the driver or scan your pre-purchased Smartcard at one of the scanners on board (see below). Tickets and cards are otherwise checked by inspectors who jump on at random stops. The fine for ‘riding like a rabbit’ - as locals call it - is €40. Exceptions include: registered residents of Tallinn, Tallinn Card holders, unaccompanied children under the age of six and children under the age of three plus one accompanying adult - they all ride the public transport system for free. Tickets: The same tickets/cards are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the single-ride ticket. Non-Tallinn-residents will need to purchase this ticket from the driver for €1.60 and it no longer needs to be validated. If you are planning on travelling a lot via public transport, other types of tickets are good for specific periods of time and are sold in all post offices, at Selver or Prisma info desks, R-Kiosk shops and the Tallinn City Government Info Hall (Vabaduse väljak 7). All longer period tickets are now e-tickets and come in the form of a plastic Smartcard. You’ll need to rent the card for a one-time deposit fee of (€2) and then purchase ‘virtual’ tickets that will be added to the card. These come in the form of a 24 hour (€3), 72 hour (€5), 5 day (€6) or 30 day (€23) pass. The card will need to be validated upon entering the vehicle by holding it in front of the orange validation machine. You’ll know it’s been scanned properly when a green light and “beep” sound show that your pass has been validated. Each time you add another ‘E-ticket’ to the card you’ll need to repeat this process. When you no longer require the use of Tallinn’s public transport system, the card can be returned to the City Government Info Hall, you’ll then receive your €2 deposit fee back - or you can just keep it as a souvenir. For more info please go to: http://www.tourism.tallinn.ee/ eng/fpage/travelplanning/transportation/public. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Peretakso Only large taxis available, best for small groups. €4.80 + €0.95/km.Qtel. (+372) 646 00 06/16111, peretakso@ peretakso.ee, www.peretakso.ee. A Reval Takso €2.50 + €0.55/km.Qtel. (+372) 601 46 00/1207, info@ reval-takso.ee, www.reval-takso.ee. Saksa Takso €2.30 + €0.49/km.Qtel. (+372) 53 03 50 35/1316, info@ saksatakso.ee, www.saksatakso.ee. N Sőbra Takso €2.50 + €0.50 - 0.55/km.Qtel. (+372) 621 50 80/1714, [email protected], www.sobratakso.ee. N Takso24 €2.80 + €0.54/km.Qtel. (+372) 640 89 27/1224, info@ takso24.ee, www.takso24.eu. A Tallink Takso €3.50 + €0.77 - 0.88/km.Qtel. (+372) 640 89 21/1921, [email protected], www.tallinktakso.ee. A Taxify (mobile taxi ordering app) Taxify is a new taxi ordering mobile app available for Android, iPhone and iPad. Some of the highlights include: taxi-hire with 2 clicks, avoiding long queues with the call centres, automatic location detection (via GPS), choice of taxi by price, distance or user ratings and avoiding taxi ripoffs by checking the ratings of local cab companies. See website for more info and download instructions.Qtel. (+372) 53 82 54 94, [email protected], www.taxify.eu. Tulika Takso €3.35 + €0.69 - 0.80/km, maxi taxi €5.75 + €1.25.Qtel. (+372) 612 00 01/1200, [email protected], www.tulika.ee. A June - July 2014

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Arriving & Transport

Arriving & Transport

Estonia is more than just Tallinn! Book a car on www.abcrent.ee and see more.

New models Online booking www.abcrent.ee Affordable rates Lõõtsa 8a, Tallinn, Tel: +372 674 7781, [email protected]

cAr renTAl aBc rent Special offer for hotels - free delivery and collection Mon - Fri 09:00 - 18:00. Service out of office hours and at the weekend €13. QI-5, Lõõtsa 6 (500m from Tallinn Airport), tel. (+372) 674 77 81, [email protected], www.abcrent.ee. Open 09.00 - 18.00. Closed sat, sun. hansarent Qg-4, Ahtri 6, tel. (+372) 655 71 55/(+372) 53 04 40 55 (24hrs), [email protected], www.hansarent.ee. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed sat, sun.

minirent Perfect for the tourist or business traveller that needs a car on demand and flexibility, Minrent offers an inexpensive, quick, easy and environmentally friendly alternative to taxis, traditional carhire services or public transport. Perhaps the best part is that everything can be done using an Internet connection and a mobile device or laptop. In many cases you can be behind the wheel in about ten minutes. Electric car rental for 4€/hour + 5 cents/km or 39€/24 hours + 5 cents/km, several rental pickup points around the city. See website for additional info and booking.Qtel. (+372) 82 82 82 82 (24hrs), [email protected], www.minirent.ee. sir autorent QH-3, Juhkentali 11, tel. (+372) 661 43 53/(+372) 56 51 353 (24hrs), [email protected], www.sirrent.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed sat, sun.

solaris parking house Entrance from Sakala street. €2.80/hr.QD-3, estonia pst. 9, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, [email protected], www. europark.ee. Open 24hrs. J vaBaduse väljak parking house €2.40/hr.QD-2, Vabaduse väljak 9, tel. 1669, www. parkimine.ee. Open 24hrs. viru centre parking house €1.80/hour.QC-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. 1669, www. parkimine.ee. Open 24hrs.

roAdside AssisTAnce autokluBi autoaBi Unfortunately their website isn’t in English, but we’ve been assured that if you’re having car trouble they’ll be able to assist. 12 locations across Estonia also means you probably won’t have to wait too long for help. Qtel. (+372) 59 07 80 00, [email protected], www. autoabi.com. Open 24hrs. falck autoaBi By far the most full-service outfit in the country, they offer help in any kind of road emergency, all across Estonia.Qtel. +372) 697 91 88, [email protected], www. falck.ee. Open 24hrs.

ferries The vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn go by ship, and it’s no wonder - the city has excellent, affordable ferry connections to Helsinki, Stockholm and Saint Petersburg. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the choice between large car ferries, which make the crossing in about two hours, and fast ferries (hydrofoils and catamarans), which usually take only 1.5 hours, but are seasonal and don’t run in all weather conditions. Ferries leave from various terminals of the city’s two passenger harbours, clustered just outside Old Town (see our map). passenger port, terminal a - d (reisisadam) Nearly all ferry companies use the Passenger Port, which is divided into terminals A through D. All Tallink ships use D-Terminal.Qg-4, sadama 25, tel. (+372) 631 85 50, ts@ ts.ee, www.portoftallinn.com. Information open in A-Terminal 06:00 - 18:30, in D-Terminal 06:00 - 22:30.

ferries To helsinki

PArking Tallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that there’s absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be here with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind that finding parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs €1.20 - 4.80/ hour, depending on the zone. Look for posted signs to tell you the price and the hours/days that paid parking is in effect. Buy per-hour parking passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked. If all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following guarded central parking lots/garages: europark aia 7 €3.60/hour.QC-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 661 02 23 , europark@ europark.ee, www.europark.ee. J europark rüütli 3 €3.20/hour.QD-2, rüütli 3, tel. (+372) 661 02 23 , [email protected], www.europark.ee. J rotermann parking house Entrance from Ahtri street. €2.40/hr.Qb-4, rotermanni 5/ 10 Tallinn In Your Pocket

roseni 10, tel. (+372) 661 02 23 , europark@europark. ee, www.europark.ee. Open 24hrs.

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

from tallinn Days

Dep.

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07:30 10:30 12:30 13:30 16:30 19:30 22:30 07:00

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:30

TO TALLINN ArArrival Terminal Ship Terminal Dep. rival 09:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 07:30 09:30 12:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 10:30 12:30 16:00 D Silja Europa (Tallink) Länsi 18:30 22:00 15:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 13:30 15:30 18:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 16:30 18:30 21:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 19:30 21:30 00:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 22:30 00:30 09:15 A Viking XPRS (Viking Line) Katanajokka 10:00 12:25 Mariella/Gabriella (Viking 17:05 A Katanajokka 11:00 13:45 Line) 20:30 A Viking XPRS (Viking Line) Katanajokka 21:30 24:00 14:30 A Finlandia (Eckerö Line) Länsi 08:30 11:00 21:45 A Finlandia (Eckerö Line) Länsi 15:30 18:30

Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1–34567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Schedule valid as of June 02, 2014. Please note that „Tallinn In Your Pocket“ does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

June - July 2014

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Arriving & Transport Ferry operators

Trains

Buses

Eckerö Line Large car ferry Finlandia. Adult single tickets starting at €19. QG-4, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. (+372) 664 60 00, [email protected], www.eckeroline.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:45. Reservations and information by phone 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 8:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:30.

Train travel in Estonia hasn’t gained the popularity it has elsewhere in Europe. The only real international connections are to points east (Moscow, St Petersburg and beyond), and although plans are under way, forget about taking the train to Riga or Vilnius. It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Estonian cities by rail. Two separate companies cover Estonia’s train system: GoRail handles international, Elron operates the local electric trains and the inter-city diesel trains.

If you’re travelling city-to-city in the Baltics or around Estonia and you don’t have your own car, the bus is definitely the way to go. It’s also a good way to meet local students. Connections are frequent and cheap, allowing you to cross the country for the same money you might spend on a taxi in Tallinn.

St. Peterline Although it only leaves every four days, now you can head to St Petersburg via ship without having to stop first in Stockholm. The round trip which includes two nights on board and a day in St Petersburg can even be completed visa-free where applicable. See website or contact agent for full details.QG-4, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. (+372) 666 08 00, [email protected], www.stpeterline.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 18:00. Closed Sat. Adult single tickets starting from €25. Tallink Large and fast car ferries. Adult single tickets start from €28. To Stockholm from €131.QG-4, Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 17808/ (+372) 640 98 08, [email protected], www.tallink.ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: H-4, Gonsiori 2. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat - Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Viking Line Large car ferry Viking XPRS. Adult single tickets from €24. QG-4, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 1719/(+372) 666 39 66, [email protected], www.vikingline. ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: G-4, Terminal A, Passenger Port. Open 08:30 - 16:00, Sun 08:30 - 14:00.

ferry to stockholm From TALLINN To TALLINN Dep. Arr. Terminal Dep. Arr. 18:00 10:00* Värtahamnen 17:45 10:00* *Arrival on next day. Ferry operated by Tallink. Ferries leave every day. Schedule valid as on June 02, 2014.

Train Station (Balti Jaam) Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn’s newly-revamped train station boasts a trendy café, fountain, a day spa and a small grocery store, but still has almost no information posted in English. Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there are information booths (open 07:10 - 18:15, Sat - Sun 08:00 - 18:15), usually staffed by someone multi-lingual. Tickets for all trains, including the Russia trains, are sold from windows in the main hall. For domestic routes, you don’t even have to bother with this process since the same tickets can always be purchased right on board the trains themselves. QB-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 00 23/1667 (24hrs, local calls only).

Train operators Elron Now fully outfitted with modern trains, they operate the commuter, electric train routes to such places as Paldiski, Aegviidu and Riisipere. Tickets can be purchased online or on the train (cash only). As of January 01, Elron also services the longer distance Tartu, Valga, Pärnu, Viljandi, Rakvere and Narva lines, with brand-new Stadler diesel trains. On these routes you can pay by cash or card on the train. See website for schedules, prices and booking or call the 24-hour infoline 1667 (costs 0.65€ per minute, possible to dial only from a local number). Qtel. (+372) 6 737 400, [email protected], www.elron.ee.

Arriving & Transport

GoRail Gorail operates the trains to Moscow and St. Petersburg. See website for full price list, schedules and visa requirements if applicable.QB-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 00 44, [email protected], www.gorail.ee. Open 08:00 - 18:00 Gorail info open at Balti Jaam train station 08:00 - 13:30; 14:30 - 19:00.

trains to st.petersburg and moscow FROM TALLINN Days Departure 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:03 – – – 4 5 – 7 15:26

Arrival 09:20* 15:23* 23:05*

Destination Moscow St.Petersburg St.Petersburg

TO TALLINN Departure 18:05* 17:24* 06:55*

Arrival 08:15 22:59 12:32

Days Price 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 from 59€ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 from 30€ 1 – – – 5 6 – from 30€

*Moscow time. Schedule valid as of June 02, 2014. Please note that „Tallinn In Your Pocket“ does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider. 12 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Bus Station (Tallinna Bussijaam) Tallinn’s small bus station has been recently renovated to suit the modernity of its passengers. Tickets are available inside the station or from the driver (let ticket-holders get on the bus first). Ticket prices depend on the bus company and route. On international routes it is advisable to reserve or buy your ticket in advance. On internal routes this is generally not necessary, however there are exceptions: On Fridays and Sundays buses to popular weekend destinations like Pärnu or Tartu tend to fill up quickly, so buying your ticket earlier in the day will guarantee a spot. Get to the station by taking city tram N°2 from the centre, or bus N°17 next to the Solaris Centre, to the Bussijaam stop. QH-5, Lastekodu 46, tel. 12 550 (local callls only), info@ bussijaam.ee, www.bussijaam.ee. Open 06:30 - 21:00.

Bus operators Ecolines A large bus company with routes throughout the Baltics, Europe and probably the best way to get to Riga from Tallinn - for the price. Ecolines is generally less expensive than other transportation options or bus lines, without compromising on comfort or quality. Conveniently you can

international bus schedule riga 06:00, 06:30*, 07:00, 07:45*, 08:30, 10:00, 12:45, 13:15*, 16:00, 16:15*, 17:00, 18:30, 19:00*, 22:30 Bus ride takes 4 to 4,5 hours. Prices starting from €14. st.petersburg 06:00, 06:10*, 07:00, 08:00, 09:15*, 10:15, 11:35, 13:45*, 14:30, 15:00, 15:45, 16:45*, 21:30*, 23:00, 23:40, 23:59. Bus ride takes 5 to 7 hours. Express lines marked in bold. Prices starting from €15. vilnius 06:00, 06:30*, 10:00, 13:15*, 22:30. Bus ride takes 8 to 9 hours. Express lines marked in bold. Prices starting from €13.

airport Lennart Meri - Tallinn Airport Tallinn’s airport is a modern affair, but still so small there’s never a worry about getting lost. Officials still recommend you arrive 2 hours before your flight though. Estonian Air check-ins close 35 minutes before take-off. A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs €10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N°2 from the ‘A. Laikmaa’ stop on Laikmaa street, located between the Viru Shopping Centre and Tallink Hotel.QJ-6, Tartu mnt. 101, tel. (+372) 605 88 88 (24hr flight info), fax (+372) 605 84 33, info@ tll.aero, www.tallinn-airport.ee. book and pay for tickets via the internet, this option also comes with a discount and you won’t have to wait in line at the ticket office. See website for additional info.QH-5, Tartu mnt. 68, tel. (+372) 606 22 17, ecolines@ecolines. ee, www.ecolines.ee. Open 06:30 - 21:00. Go Bus Operating lines all over Estonia, these modern blue buses can take you to regional destinations such as Pärnu, Hiiumaa, Saaremaa, Haapsalu, Rakvere, and various locations in Harjumaa. Buses leave from the central bus station. See website for additional information.QLastekodu 46 (Tallinn Bus Station), tel. 12550 (local calls only), www.gobus.ee. Lux Express Formerly known as Eurolines, Lux Express runs most international bus routes from Estonia. Seats on all routes can be reserved up to 24 hours in advance by calling ahead, though getting through to the office requires persistence. You can also buy tickets from the website. Find the office on the bus station’s first floor.QH-5, Lastekodu 46, tel. (+372) 680 09 09, fax (+372) 680 09 01, info.ee@ luxexpress.eu, www.luxexpress.eu. Open 06:30 - 19:00. SEBE Sebe runs full hour express buses to Tartu and also lines to Pärnu, Narva, Valga, Kuressaare, Võru, Haapsalu. Discount tickets can be purchased online or from the electronic kiosk at the bus station. See website for prices and schedules.QLastekodu 46 (Tallinn Bus Station), tel.12550 (local calls only), www.sebe.ee.

* Lines operated by Ecolines, others by Lux Express. Schedule valid as of June 02, 2014. Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

June - July 2014

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London, Paris or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls. The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums, galleries, and even a couple art-house cinemas. If you are still thirsting for more, an exhaustive calendar of culture is available at www.culture.ee.

main events Flower Festival 2014 May 23 - September 30, along the medieval town wall located on the Square of Towers. Once again this year, flowers are in the spotlight with a festival of their very own. In addition to local landscape designers, professional gardeners from all the corners of Europe will help to transform the space in front of Old Town’s walls and towers into a gardener’s dream space. Workshops, exhibitions, concerts and children’s activities will also be held. This year’s themes are Magical Garden and Communicating Garden. International Visual Theatre Festival TREFF 2014 June 5 - 8, Various locations throughout Tallinn, www. nuku.ee/english/festival/. Brought to you by the fun and creative folks over at Estonian Puppet Theatre NUKU, ‘Treff’, which means ‘meet’ in a couple of languages, will truly be fun for the whole family. Expect a whole lot of workshops, several villages worth of puppets, crazy costumes and more than a few interesting ‘meets’. This year’s star guest will be the Paris-based Compagnie Philippe Genty with their visual theatre performance ‘Ne m’oublie pas’ (Forget Me Not). The lineup also includes other top performers in puppet, visual and object theatre from Finland, Russia, France, Italy, the Czech Republic, the United Kingdom, Spain, Slovenia and, of course, Estonia. Some performances are aimed at children, others at young people and adults. See website for info on individual events and admission pricing.

where to get tickets Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletilevi C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 14 44, www.piletilevi.ee. Ticketpro, D/E-3/4, Solaris Centre, Estonia pst. 9, tel. 624 80 32, www.ticketpro.ee. Estonia’s major concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office in Tallinn at E-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 00, [email protected], www.concert.ee. 14 Tallinn In Your Pocket

classical music events Aficionados of classical music will want to check out the concerts being organised this summer by the Pille Lill Music Fund: June 10 at 12:00: Aarne Ots (trumpet), Ralf Taal (piano) at St. Michael’s Church; June 19 at 19:00: Atlan Karp (baritone), Kai Ratassepp (piano) at Town Hall; Oksana Sinkova July 3 at 19:00: Pille Lill (soprano), Oksana Sinkova (flute), Marje Lohuaru (piano) at Town Hall; July 8 at 12:00 Andreas Lend (cello), Virgo Veldi (saxophone), Ulla Krigul (organ) at St. Michael’s Church. Tallinn Guitar Festival 2014 June 9 - 13, Kumu and House of the Brotherhood of the Blackheads (p.20), www.kitarrifestival.ee. With performers from all over the globe, this year’s festival is truly an international tribute to the world of classical guitar. Performing this time around are Jaime Valesco of Spain, the Brazilian/Estonian trio Sergio Bastos, Raivo Tafenao and Paul Daniel, French guitar legend Tiit Peterson, homegrown duo Ain Agan and Andre Maaker, and one of Europe’s leading lights in classical guitar, Scottish musician Matthew McAllister. See website for full programme and ticket information. David Guetta June 13, Song Festival Grounds (p.20), www.piletilevi. ee. We’ll all be feeling the beats as one of the hottest names in the club music world, French DJ, house producer and remixer David Guetta, brings his act to the Song Festival Grounds. Tom Jones June 17, Saku Suurhall (p.20), www.ticketpro.ee. Mamma told him not to come, but Sir Tom evidently isn’t listening and the living legend is determined to bring his booming voice to our fair city. We fully expect him to ask all us pussycats what’s new. Midsummer's Eve celebrations June 23 at 19:00 - 24:00, Estonian Open Air Museum, www.evm.ee. As if to show how much they love their pagan roots, Estonians have made Jaanipäev, also known as St. John’s Day or Midsummer (celebrated the night of June 23 - 24) the single biggest holiday of the year, barring Christmas. Estonians celebrate the shortest night of the year by going to the countryside to light bonfires and drink beer. If you happen to be in Tallinn that day, you can join the organised festivities at the Estonian Open Air Museum. There, in addition to concerts, you’ll get a look at how that special night was celebrated in different periods of history. Alternatively you can join the celebrations at Nõmme Sport Centre (Külmaallika 15A) starting at 18:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Tallinn star weekend: The Offspring, Andrea Bocelli June 27, 28, Song Festival Grounds (p.20), www.piletilevi.ee. Put together under one umbrella event called ‘Tallinn Star Weekend’, these two big-name acts, along with other talent, will be gracing the city’s largest outdoor concert venue with The Offspring headlining on the first night and Bocelli the second. What you have to decide is this: Are you pretty fly for a white guy, or is it time to say goodbye? Maybe both.

Offspring, one of the main performers at Tallinn Start Weekend

celebration of song and dance 26th Song Celebration and 19th Dance Celebration ‘Touched by Time. The Time to Touch.’ July 4 - 6, Song Festival Grounds (see p.20) and Kalev Central Stadium (I-4), http://2014.laulupidu.ee/en/. What defines a nation? The Italians have their cuisine, the Americans have their ‘American Dream’, the Aussies have the ‘Outback’, but Estonians? Well, Estonians have the Song Celebration. In case you’re not quite sure what a Song Celebration is, it’s a weekend of concerts by a giant choir of 20,000 people, joined by a large audience who often sings along with them. The power of these celebrations is not easy to describe, let’s just say that if you haven’t ever felt religion, you’ll feel it at an Estonian Song Celebration. Although this aural gathering may not be the most ancient of traditions, only having been first organised in Tartu in 1869, it has become well ingrained in the hearts and souls of Estonians around the world for many generations. Since 1896 the celebration has been held in Tallinn and currently takes place every 5 years, with the “Youth Song and Dance Celebration” held every alternate 5 years. The celebration now incorporates a folk-dance celebration, which was first held in 1934. The ‘Song and Dance Celebrations’ is considered of such cultural importance that it has become part of Unesco’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. This year’s event, which carries the title “Touched by Time. The Time to Touch", will explore the story of time - manifesting itself in the Estonian ancestral heritage as well as themes that impact modern-day Estonians. They will attempt to shape time through their own touches, contacts, caresses through dance and impacts of their voices through song. The raw emotion and all-embracing song, unites the hearts and minds of the people here like nothing else and can stop armies. Estonia is indeed a singing and dancing nation and you’re invited to join in regardless if you know the words or can dance the steps. Tickets (€5 - 50) can be bought on-site or from www.piletilevi.ee before the event. Programme July 04, Friday 18:00 ­Dance Celebration Puudutus (The Touch). Location: Kalev Central Stadium. Length: about 2 hours. Open air. July 05, Saturday 11:00 Dance Celebration Puudutus (The Touch). Location: Kalev Central Stadium. Length: about 2 hours. Open air. 14:00 Procession. The route of the about 5-kilometer-long procession has its beginning in the centre of town and ends at Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. Everyone can follow the procession without a ticket. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

20:00 The first concert of the 26th Song Celebration Aja puudutus (Touched by Time). Location: Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (G-6). Length: about 4 hours. Open air. The beginning of the concert is estimated. The concert will begin right after the end of the procession. July 06, Sunday 11:00 Dance Celebration Puudutus (The Touch). Location: Kalev Central Stadium. Length: about 2 hours. Open air. 14:00 The second concert of the 26th Song Celebration Puudutuse aeg (The Time to Touch). Location: Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. Length: about 7 hours. Open air. June - July 2014

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Culture & Events

Cinemas Tallinn’s cinemas are fairly central, and all films except kids’ films are shown in their original language with Estonian subtitles. You can always find out what’s playing by calling the 1182 infoline. Operators speak English. Artis Tallinn’s two-theatre, art-house cinema has a full schedule of independent films, Estonian productions, shorts and kids’ films. Tickets €5 - 6.50.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 663 13 80, [email protected], www.kino.ee. Show times vary, see website for details. Coca-Cola Plaza This high-tech, 11-screen super cinema is most people’s first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Now even featuring a 3D theatre. Tickets for evening shows cost €5.50 - 6.90, 3D costs €7.50 - 8.40.QG-4, Hobujaama 5, tel. (+372) 1182, [email protected], www.forumcinemas.ee. Kino Sõprus Now operating on a regular basis, this is the kind of place cinemaphiles hang out at. These art house films are often European or Estonian productions, but be warned - you may not be able to see them with English subtitles. Truly for the more hardcore among cinema viewers. See website for schedule. Opens one hour before ‘seance’ - not really sure what that means, but Bela Lugosi might also be in attendance. Tickets €5.QD-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372) 644 19 19, info@ kinosoprus.ee, kinosoprus.ee. J Solaris Cinema Located in the Solaris Centre, this is the most state of the art cinema in Tallinn. Tickets for evening shows cost €5.70 - 6.80, 3D - €7.60 - 8.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (+372) 16105, [email protected], www. solariskino.ee. L 16 Tallinn In Your Pocket

XV Medieval Days July 10 - 13, various places in the Old Town, www.folkart. ee. Kind of like the Old Town Days, only not, the Medieval Days’ aim is to promote the importance of and remember fondly, smelly old medieval Tallinn. After all, without the medieval times,Old Town wouldn’t be so old would it. Expect playfulness, medieval music, folk art, handicrafts and random historical goings on. On the opening day there will even be a carnival at Town Hall Square, so put on your silliest hat and join in.

While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London, Paris or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls. The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums, galleries, and even a couple art-house cinemas. Have a look at all of these events in the PDF version of Tallinn In Your Pocket here. If you are still thirsting for more, an exhaustive calendar of culture is available at www.culture.ee.

Beer Summer Festival

Major art museums

July 9-12, Song Festival Grounds (p.20), www. ollesummer.ee. The largest, loudest, drunkest event of the season, this massive beer bash is also a family-style carnival and music festival all rolled into one. Lately the festival has been much more about the music than the beer making it more of a cultural event than a beer guzzling one. This year’s international headliners are all from the UK: Hurts, Bastille and The Bootleg Beatles. Joining them will be some excellent local talent in the form of Koit Toome, Ott Lepland and the Smilers, among other. Many other events, both clean and dirty, can also be enjoyed here. Just drink responsibly. If you don’t, you may end up taking a naked swim in Tallinn Bay just across the street. Just saying.

rooftop cinema They describe it as ‘100+ days of a summer film festival’ and indeed it’s an excellent alternative to indoor cinemas during the warmer months. The centrally located rooftop cinema offers up a chance to watch some of the more artistic Hollywood films, art-house cinema and some excellent classics. There’s a sun terrace onsite with a fresh and tasty Japanese café operated by MoMo in case you get the munchies or need to quench your thirst with a delicious cocktail. The space can accommodate 500 of your best friends and runs from May 15 through August 31. Purchase tickets in advance or at the venue, see website for full schedule and further details. Comfortable 6 - 10 person VIP box seats also available.QC4, Viru väljak 4, on the roof of Viru Centre, tel. (+372) 54 50 97 75, [email protected], www.katusekino. ee. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. Tickets €6 - 8. JK tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Tallinn Maritime Days 2014 July 18 - 20, Admirality Basin, Seaplane Harbour, Peetri Harbour (G-3), Most events are without admission, www.tallinnamerepaevad.ee. Ships ahoy! The purpose of this Maritime festival is to promote the importance of Tallinn as a sea port and to bring back life and vibrance to the once bustling port area. You can expect to find all sorts of sea related activities, loads of fantastic ships and sailing vessels to visit and see, along with interactive sea-themed events. There are also concerts and entertainment for kids. Most events are without admission. Please see the website for the extensive list of activities.

Culture & Events

30 Seconds to Mars July 15, Saku Suurhall, www.piletilevi.ee. Headed up by actor Jared Leto (Fight Club, Requiem For a Dream), this American rock band has actually found a decent amount of acclaim at home and abroad. Now on their world tour and with a hit single rocking the Billboard charts it seems that Mars might not be too far off.

midsummer celebration As if to show how much they love their pagan roots, Estonians have made Jaanipäev, also known as St. John’s Day or Midsummer (celebrated the night of June 23 - 24) the single biggest holiday of the year, barring Christmas. Estonians celebrate the shortest night of the year by going to the countryside to light bonfires and drink beer. If you happen to be in Tallinn that day, you can join the organised festivities at the Estonian Open Air Museum. There, in addition to concerts, you’ll get a look at how that special night was celebrated in different periods of history (turn to page 14 for the event listing). facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Kadriorg Palace - Art Museum You could easily say that Peter the Great’s spectacular Northern Baroque palace is a work of art in and of itself, but the palace is also home to Estonia’s museum of foreign art. Paintings by 16th- 18th-century Dutch, German, Italian and masters, as well as 18th - 19th-century Russian works make up most of what’s on display. Intriguing examples of sculpture, porcelain and glass can also be found here. Through September 07: Evelyn von Maydell. A World in Black and White.QG-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. (+372) 606 64 03/(+372) 606 64 00, [email protected], www. kadriorumuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.80. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) €5.20. Kumu Winning the title ‘European Museum of the Year 2008’ , Estonia’s largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia’s past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Through June 15: Visvaldis Ziedinš. Rewriting Latvian Art History. Through September 21: Marju Mutsu. A Moment Captured in Etching. Through September 28: Nikolai Triik. Classics of the Modernist Era. Through October 12: Raul Meel. Dialogues with Infinity.QG-6, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. (+372) 602 60 00/(+372) 602 60 01, [email protected], www.kumu.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibition €4.20, contemporary art €2.60, all exhibitions €5.50. Tallinn Art Hall & Gallery (Tallinna Kunstihoone) Drop into this imposing 1930s-era building on Vabaduse square to find some of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art Hall’s separate, smaller gallery (where admission is free) next door at Vabaduse väljak 6 hosts separate exhibitions. Through June 15: Compulsion. Paintings and installations. June 12 - July 6: Back to Hyperreality 2. Jaan Elken paintings. June 26 - July 27: OrnaMental. QD-2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 28 18, www. kunstihoone.ee. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €3.50. J June - July 2014

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Culture & Events culTurAl cenTres kultuurikatla aed community garden and café kanala Located right next to the ‘Fish Market’ harbour in the courtyard of some old derelict-looking buildings and just a short hop across the street from Old Town - this, primarily seasonal cultural area has lots to offer the visitor who is looking for something a little different. From concerts to workshops, a children’s play area, film nights, theatrical performances, various exhibitions, special events and even a flea market on Saturdays - the opportunities are endless. There’s also a vegan, vegetarian and raw food café onsite which offers diners the chance to truly nourish the body, while nourishing the soul with all that culture. Certainly worth a visit.QF-3, Kalasadama 6 (next to the Culture Kilometre). Open 10:00 - 23:00. Café open Tue, Wed, sun 12:00 - 23:00, Thu - sat 12:00 - 06:00, closed Mon. the solaris centre Rising out of the ashes from a former soviet landmark, this all-in-one entertainment complex comes complete with a state of the art cinema, concert hall, shopping and dining facilities. Solaris even sports a decent amount of plant life, in fact the only thing it doesn’t have is a hotel and if it did there would be really no reason to leave.QD/e-3/4, estonia pst. 9, tel. (372) 615 51 00, [email protected], www.solaris.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. JULEKW

ArT gAlleries & museums There are loads of little galleries and culturally-oriented museums in Tallinn, here we have listed some of the more important and centrally-located ones. adamson-eric museum The permanent collection of works by the world-renowned artist Adamson-Eric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a 16th-century in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum of Estonia. Through August 17: Enhanced by the North. Estonian Artists in Nordic Countries.QC-1/2, Lühike jalg 3, tel. (+372) 644 58 35, [email protected], www. adamson-eric.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €2.50. J applied art museum (tarBekunsti- ja disainimuuseum) Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set off by irregular white walls. Through August 24: Tõnis Käo. Design as Experiment. Through August 24: Rhizope. Through September 7: Between Art and Industry. The Art Products Factory.Qb-2, Lai 17, tel. (+372) 627 46 00/(+372) 627 46 11, [email protected], www.etdm.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €4. J 18 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Culture & Events city gallery (linnagalerii) A rapidly changing rotation of contemporary, and often boldly experimental, art exhibitions. Through June 22: Contribution of the East. Zoran Zivkovich (Montenegro). June 27 - July 20: Al Padrok. Anonymous Boch archive.QD-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372) 644 28 18, www.kunstihoone.ee. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. J contemporary art museum of estonia Not all modern art is contemporary and contemporary art is not all modern - or something like that. Fed up with the fact that the Estonian caretakers of culture ie. The Ministry of Culture refuses to see these differences and also refuses to see that these separate forms of art should have their own separate venues, a group of rebellious artists took over an abandoned building and decided to evangelise contemporary art to those that might listen - or watch, as is often the case with art. Have a look for yourself to see if any of this actually makes sense. Through June 15: Köler Prize 2014. Exhibition of Nominees. June 21 - July 27: Black House. Notes on Architecture. Qg-3, põhja pst. 35, tel. (+372) 508 45 70, [email protected], www.ekkm.ee. Open 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. design & architecture gallery Changing exhibition of Estonian product design.QD-3, pärnu mnt. 6, tel. (+372) 627 36 30. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed sun. Admission free. J draakoni gallery The famous Dragon gallery holds small, often strange exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. Through June 21: Endgame 2014. June 25 - July 12: Martin Ploomipuu, Paavo Käämbre. July 14 - 26: Ulvi Haagensen.QC-2, pikk 18, tel. (+372) 646 41 10, [email protected], www.eaa.ee/ draakon/dindex.htm. Open 11:00 - 18:00, sat 11:00 17:00. Closed sun. Admission free. J haus gallery A commercial gallery, Haus is also open to the public and has an active exhibition schedule. Through June 27: Christelll. July 1 - August 8: QBA.Qb-3, uus 17, tel. (+372) 641 94 71/(+372) 641 10 76, [email protected], www.haus. ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed sun. Admission free. buzz to enter. J hoBusepea gallery The Estonian Artists’ Union operates this cosy, two-storey gallery. Through June 20: Endgame 2014. June 26 - July 14: Jaan Elken. July 16 - 28: Sirja-Liisa Eelma.Qb/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 627 67 77, [email protected], www. eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free. J kullo children’s gallery Located in a fascinating medieval dwelling house, Kullo hosts workshops for children and highlights works by the coming generation of Estonian artists.QC-2, Kuninga 6, tel. (+372) 644 68 73, [email protected], www.kullo.ee/Kullo Lastegalerii. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, sun. Admission €2. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Life is beautiful! Just a few steps from the Old Town Solaris Center – the newest and most unique center of entertainment, shopping and culture. IN SOLARIS YOU WILL FIND: • A variety of leisure and lifestyle shops for all tastes, including Apple, women’secret, Weplay, Hemtex etc. • Food Court, including a café Komeet with the best view of Tallinn. • The most innovative food-store in the city. • The latest 3D multiplex cinema Solaris Kino with its 7 screens. • 2 screens for classic movies at Cinema Artis. • Nordea Concert Hall – the best equipped concert hall in Estonia. Estonia pst 9 | www.solaris.ee

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Culture & Events Mikkel Museum Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum has one of Estonia’s most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. Through September 07: Colours of the Golden Age. Classical Estonian Painting from Enn Kunila’s Collection. QG-5, Weizenbergi 28 (Kadriorg Palace), tel. (+372) 601 58 44, [email protected], www.mikkelimuuseum. ee. Open , Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €2.50. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) €5.20. Museum of Estonian Architecture Tallinn’s architecture museum is located in the port area and housed in the restored Rotermann Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiousity. The permanent exhibit on the main floor features architectural models from the museum’s collection. Temporary exhibitions are held on the other floors.QB-4, Ahtri 2, tel. (+372) 625 70 07, [email protected], www. arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission to full house €4. Niguliste Museum - Concert hall This 13th century Gothic church, now an affiliate of the Estonian Art Museum, houses a fascinating collection of medieval art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries and a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers. Not to be missed is the famous fragment of Bernt Notke’s 15th-century masterpiece, Dance Macabre. Organ concerts Sat, Sun 16:00. Through December 31, 2015: Rode Altarpiece in Close-up.QC/D2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 644 99 03/(+372) 53 43 10 52, [email protected], www.nigulistemuuseum. ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €3.50. J Tauno Kangro Gallery Although technically a commercial gallery, visitors are always welcome to just come by and browse through one of Estonia’s top, and certainly most recognised, sculptors. He sculpts using a variety of materials and the sizes range from hand-held - all the way up to massive monuments that are most impressive to say the least. His subject matter is also varied, but his love for the beauty of the female form is certainly noticeable while taking a walk through this gallery. His pastels are also fantastic and certainly affordable, even though he’s one of Estonia’s greatest living artists.QB-3, Uus 20, tel. (+372) 641 10 02, info@ skupltuuristuudio.ee, www.skulptuuristuudio.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Usually open between working hours from Monday through Friday, but call ahead just to make sure someone is around to let you in. J 20 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artistic district home to Tallinn’s oldest cemetery, which was unfortunately flattened by the Soviets in 1964 to make way for military complexes. Clues to the park’s original purpose exist only in the form of a plaque and a bell tower from the year 1780. In terms of dining or shopping, one might expect that such an up-and-coming area would be on the pricey side - it’s not. Although quite trendy at the moment, most of the establishments in Kalamaja are much less expensive than those located in Old Town. Hopefully it will stay that way, at least for a little while.

Concert halls Estonia Concert Hall The premier venue for classical music and the home of national concert organiser Eesti Kontsert.QD-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372) 614 77 60, [email protected], www.concert. ee. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. On Sundays open one hour before scheduled concerts. Estonian National Opera Tallinn’s pride and joy hosts opera, ballet and frequent performances by internationally-renowned guests. Tickets cost up to €31.QD-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372) 683 12 10/(+372) 683 12 15, [email protected], www.opera.ee. Box office open 11:00 - 19:00. House of the Brotherhood of the Black Heads (Mustpeade Maja) This ornate 15th-century guild hall hosts the occasional classical music concerts.QB-3, Pikk 26, tel. (+372) 631 31 99, [email protected], www.mustpeademaja. ee. Box office open one hour before performance. J Niguliste Museum - Concert Hall Organ music concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. For more on this 13th-century Gothic church, see What to see section.QC-2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 644 99 03, [email protected], www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J Nordea Concert Hall Tallinn now has a world-class concert hall, complete with a stunning sound system and high-tech gadgetry. QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (+372) 615 51 11, info@ tallinnconcerthall.com, www.tallinnconcerthall.com. Saku Suurhall Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major sporting events.QK-7, Paldiski mnt. 104b, tel. (+372) 660 02 00, sakusuurhall@ sakusuurhall.ee, www.sakusuurhall.ee. Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) The birthplace of Estonia’s Singing Revolution in 1988, the Lauluväljak is made of both a gigantic outdoor arena and a modern, indoor concert hall.QG-6, Narva mnt. 95, tel. (+372) 611 21 02, [email protected], www.lauluvaljak.ee.

Located just a short hop from the Balti jaam train station (G-3) lies the eclectic and historic district of Kalamaja. The area’s name means ‘Fish House’ and many street names here betray Kalamaja’s fishing-, sea- and industry-related roots: Kõie (Rope), Kalaranna (Fish Beach) and Telliskivi (Brick). Travel a little beyond the Kalamaja area and you’ll run into the more industrial district of Kopli which, as of yet, has little to offer sightseers except perhaps some interesting crumbling architecture. There is a beach at the end of the Paljassaare Peninsula where, at the far end, many of Tallinn’s Naturists seem to congregate in the warmer months. Both regions, often lumped together as one, are within walking distance or a short tram or bicycle ride from Old Town. Although it’s certainly a nicer jaunt from Spring until Autumn, Kalamaja has quickly become a year-round destination, especially for locals. One of Tallinn’s last remaining ‘wooden house’ and antiquated industrial districts has seen somewhat of a trendy revival as of late, akin to what happened in the Soho districts of New York or London, albeit on a smaller scale. The revival, as with most cases in developed cities of the world, happened thanks to inexpensive real estate prices and the historic/industrial surroundings. First, the ‘hippies’, bohemians, artists and students set up shop and residence here. Now it seems that everyone wants a piece of the action and as a result real estate prices have gone through the roof over the last few years. What was once home to fishermen, sailors, dock-workers, shipbuilders and factory employees now houses boutiques, some great flea markets, high-brow eateries and a few cool nightspots for Tallinn’s hipsters and trend setters. There are in fact still quite a few industrial complexes and sea-oriented businesses operating in the area due to the proximity of the harbours and rail-lines that still skirt these districts. Besides being home to some architectural and often derelict delights, Kalamaja has some interesting sights from the fascinating one-time fortress Paterei Prison (F-3, Kalaranna 2), the now world-famous Estonia Piano Factory (F-3, Kungla 41), the 1928 Jugenstil Kalma Sauna (A-1, Vana-Kalamaja 9a) and Kalmistu Park (F-3), formerly

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Although there are places to eat and shop scattered throughout the district (with new ones opening up every month), the epicentre of the whole Kalamaja frenzy, including shops, boutiques, handi-crafters, a large flea market, eateries and much of the nightlife scene, seems to be headquartered in and around the old Telliskivi factory and warehouse complex - Telliskivi Loomelinnak (Telliskivi Creative City). This is probably your best place to start when visiting the district and it’s easily reachable, just around the corner from the far end of the Baltijaam Market.

Where to eat Boheem This isn’t the sort of place to come if you have a burning hunger, however, it’s a bohemian and inexpensive café, serves up some delightful crepes, salads and some delicious desserts along with all your favourite caffeinated beverages. It’s even bohemianly located behind the Balti Jaama Turg, a great choice after you’ve done some treasure hunting - but not a great one if you want food fast. QG-3, Kopli 18, tel. (+372) 631 19 28, [email protected], www.boheem.ee. Open 09.00 - 23.00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10.00 - 23:00. €. 6BSW F-Hoone Located in the Telliskivi industrial/warehouse complex, F-Hoone is one of those success stories that every wannabe restaurateur dreams of and we’ve quite enjoyed it in the past. Although they’ve recently changed their kitchen staff and menu, the food is still fresh and relatively inspired The atmosphere is certainly industrial and chic and the prices are surprisingly low for the quality and portion size.QG-3, Telliskivi 60a, tel. (+372) 680 11 14, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€. TBW Kukeke The cuisine here is overseen by one of Estonia’s most famous culinary aficionados Anni Arro. Trained in Italy, she has written several cook-books and her passion for quality food certainly comes through in her recipes. Given that she’s equally talented at creating delicious desserts, a meal had in the charming yet industrial atmosphere at Kukeke will certainly be worth your while.QG-3, Telliskivi 57, tel. (+372) 677 87 38, [email protected], www. kukeke.ee. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PT6BSW June - July 2014

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Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artistic district

Telliskivi Reval Café Given its location, this branch of the popular Estonian chain is naturally a bit more bohemian than some of the others and certainly quite cosy. They do hold true to their formula of value for money, fresh quality food and great coffee. Delicious cakes, pastries and friendly service round out the experience and they also offer some decent breakfast options - alongside a very decent wine and beer menu. Great for a quick bite or just hanging out with a coffee.QG-3, Telliskivi 60A (Telliskivi Loomelinnak), tel. (+372) 600 12 15, info@ revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. €. PiT6BSW

where to drink Pokaal Veinibaar Located right next to Pudelibaar, ‘Wine Glass’ brings a little high-culture to its industrial surroundings. They indeed have an excellent selection of quality wines and also feature some organic and biodynamic selections as well. The prices are fairly reasonable as is the stylish yet relaxed atmosphere. You’ll even find live music some nights and various special events including our favourite the ‘Wine Buffet’ which will set you back a mere €15 for three hours worth of fermented ‘noble’ grape juice tasting. Check their Facebook site for upcoming events.QG-3, Telliskivi 60A (Telliskivi Loomelinnak), tel. (+372) 58 59 90 01, [email protected]. Open Wed, Thu 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. 6UB Pudelibaar Run by a British expat, ‘Bottle Bar’ remains true to his philosophy that a decent watering hole should stand on the foundation of great beers, ciders and other quality beverages. In fact, it was he that basically started a ‘beer revolution’ in Estonia by first importing the highest quality, IPA’s, stouts, lagers and natural ciders into the country giving the the local beer establishment a bit of a kick in the pants. Estonia’s longtime beer culture unfortunately suffered a bit during the Soviet-era, but now it’s taken a huge leap forward again. This new establishment is located in the Telliskivi complex and in keeping with the industrial atmosphere of the area is stylish yet bare-bones. Great terrace in summer and some cool events throughout the rest of the year. QG-3, Telliskivi 60A, tel. (+372) 58 66 44 96, [email protected]. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 22 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Estonia’s first dedicated craft beer bar

· Over 100 craft beers from the worlds best brewers · Full range of Estonian microbrews · Beer flights · English ciders and botanical soft drinks · Relaxed interior with outdoor terrace ·

Telliskivi 60A · (+372) 5866 4496

Lendav Taldrik Located in the black building towards the end of the Telliskivi Complex, the ‘Flying Saucer’ or ‘Plate’, depending on how you choose to interpret it, is certainly a welcome edition to the area. The interior style is quite excellent - with its rugged good looks, industrial sensibility and just the right amount of comfort, guests here will feel both stylish and at home. The cuisine is kind of an Asian-fusion blend, with definite Indian leanings, and all is certainly tasty to say the least. Decent vegetarian options also available. Fast, friendly service is just a mango on the lassi - so to speak. QG-3, Telliskivi 60A (Telliskivi Loomelinnak), tel. (+372) 621 42 22, [email protected]. TBSW

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artistic district

Telliskivi loomelinnak Telliskivi Creative City is a revamped complex of 11 old industrial buildings (formerly the Baltic Railways factory) is a defining feature of the über-hip Kalamaja district and has become a magnet for all kinds of creative enterprises and activities. Apart from being home to some off-beat restaurants and bars, funky design shops, antique shops and the like, it's also a living, breathing space for innovation, with offices available in a mini-hub – the perfect place to launch your next startup. A packed schedule of art exhibits, concerts, street festivals and other cultural happenings keeps the spotlight on this up-and-coming little 'city' and makes sure the crowds keep coming back. Those who want to fully explore this factory zone can book the 1.5- 2-hour Telliskivi Urban Walk organised by Estonian Urban Lab. Contact (+372) 53 57 04 01, [email protected]. QG-3, Telliskivi 60A, [email protected], www.telliskivi.eu/en/.

events at telliskivi Telliskivi Flea Market Every Saturday 10:00 - 15:00, Telliskivi courtyard. Each weekend this gathering in the Telliskivi courtyard is open season for bargain-hunters, offering all kinds of second-hand treasures. Tallinn Bicycle Week June 05 - 08. Fun and always eco-friendly, the ‘TBW’ is an annual celebration of both people power and pedal power. The lineup includes lectures, an outdoor concert, a bike picnic and the ever-popular Tour d’ÖÖ – a mass, nighttime ride. Tallinn Street Food Festival June 15. Street food, with its enticing spectra of colours, aromas and tastes, is well known in Asia and South America, but a new concept for Estonians. This first-of-a-kind festival aims to correct that. More than 20 vendors will present a culinary trip around the world, accompanied by cooking seminars and musical entertainment. The Tallinn Collector July 09 – Aug 07, Valge galerii/White gallery. Ready for the ultimate retro exhibit? In case you haven’t seen the website, which went viral among locals, The Tallinn Collector is a compilation of images and texts from Soviet-era tourist guidebooks. The material shows not only how different the city looked back in the days of the USSR, but also how authorities of the time wanted to present it to the outside world.

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Sightseeing Given its age (over 800 years old) and fascinating history, Tallinn is chalk-full of sights, museums and countless stories to help you pass the time rather interestingly. Here you’lll find the must-sees and a whole lot more. Find the Tourist Information Point in the Basics section.

The Old Town Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town.

Toompea Hill Climb Pikk jalg and you’ll find yourself on Castle Square (Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century symbol of the Tsar’s power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn, where the Knights of the Sword built a fortress in 1229. Viewing platforms The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli view platforms are usually the first place that tourists want to see when they visit Tallinn. From here, sweeping views of the town, its red-tiled roofs, its towers, its walls and all of its charm open up. Get your camera ready.QC-1/2. Toompea Castle Built on the spot where the ancient Estonians’ wooden fortress stood before the 1219 Danish invasion, Tallinn’s castle served for seven centuries as the seat of power for the nation’s foreign masters. Now it houses the Riigikogu, Estonia’s parliament. On one corner of the castle you can see Pikk Hermann tower with the blue, black and white tricolour flag waving above it. It’s commonly recognised that whoever’s flag flies on top of this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The pink section you see in front is actually a baroque structure added in the 18th Century. For a more castle-like view of this building, head behind it, down the opposite side of the hill.QD-1, Lossi plats 1, tel. (+372) 631 63 45, www.riigikogu.ee/index. php?id=3156. English guided tour every Friday at 11:00. Group tours offered with other preferred languages from Monday through Fridays, between 10:00 - 16:00. Call for details and bookings. J 24 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Toompea’s dominating landmark is the Russian Orthodox cathedral named for the duke who attacked southeastern Estonia and Pskov in the early 13th century. Tsar Alexander III ordered the cathedral designed in 1894 by St. Petersburg master Mikhail Preobrazhensky and it was completed in 1900. According to legend, the cathedral was built on the grave of Estonian hero Kalev and has suffered structurally as a result.QC/D-1, Lossi plats 10, tel. (+372) 644 34 84, www.orthodox.ee. Services in Russian Mon - Fri 08:30 ;18:00, Sat 08:30, Sun 09:30. Admission free. J Danish King’s Garden (Taani Kuninga aed) One of the most picturesque and secluded locations in Old Town, the Danish King’s Garden is filled with trees, benches, little nooks and a great view of the Niguliste Church spire. The best time to visit the garden is at night with the medieval walls at your back and the beautifully lit lower town roofs providing ambience. It also features two of Tallinn’s fortification towers, Neitsitorn (Virgin’s Tower) and Tallitorn (Stable Tower).QD-1, Lühike jalg 9a. J Dome Church (Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin) (Toomkirik) What might be the oldest church in Estonia was founded in 1219 by the first wave of Danish forces. The Gothic exterior dates to the 14th century, but the interior was rebuilt after the 1684 fire. The Baroque pulpit (1686) and organ loft (1780) are worth a look. As you enter be sure to step on the tomb of Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that his grave be placed in this humbling location. Please be considerate and visit after the Sunday service.QC-1, Toomkooli 6, tel. (+372) 644 41 40, [email protected], www. eelk.ee/tallinna.toom. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon Services in Estonian Sun 11:00. Organ music Sat 12:00. Admission free. J Kiek in de Kök (Peep into the Kitchen) Built 1475 - 1481, this 45m, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV’s cannonballs embedded in its walls to prove it. Medieval soldiers joked that from its top, they could see right into the kitchens of the houses below - hence the odd name. The tower now operates as a museum. QD-1/2, Komandandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, kok@ linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50. Joint ticket with the Bastion Tunnels €8.30. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Lower Town Lower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around the world came in through the port and were traded on the market on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously from the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist Russian times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers and shakers in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with Ethnic Estonians for most part second-class citizens. However, Estonian peasants from surrounding areas often escaped to the city, where they could eventually be considered free. Town Hall Square (Raekoja Plats) As a medieval market and a modern meeting place, Town Hall Square, has been the heart of city life for eight centuries. With the Town Hall at your back, you can survey some of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in Tallinn. Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked with a compass rose. From here, if you stretch, you can see the tops Tallinn’s five most famous spires.QC/D-2.

Sightseeing

Town Hall (Raekoda) The jewel in the crown of Old Town is unquestionably the Town Hall, the centre of civic rule from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. Though a previous town hall stood here at least as far back as 1322, the imposing Gothic building of today dates to 1404. Old Thomas, the weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530. Most of the year you need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse of the vaulted halls, however from July till August Town Hall is open for all visitors.QD-2, Raekoja plats 1, tel. (+372) 645 79 00, [email protected], veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission €4. JN Holy Spirit Church (Püha Vaimu kirik) This awe-inspiring, 13th-century church adjacent Town Hall Square sports an impressive Baroque tower as well as an ornate, outdoor clock that’s said to be one of the most photographed objects in Tallinn. The real treasure however is the intricate, wood-carved interior, which includes Baroque pews and a Renaissance pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the Order of the Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the people - It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and poor, and it was here that the first sermons were given in Estonian after the Reformation.QC-2/3, Pühavaimu 2, tel. (+372) 644 14 87/(+372) 646 44 30, [email protected], www.eelk.ee/tallinna. puhavaimu. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Services in English 15:00 every Sunday. Classical music hour Mon 18:00. Entrance fee €1. J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Dominican Monastery One of Tallinn’s oldest existing buildings is this monastery founded in 1246. The part of the monastery administered by the museum includes the courtyard and surrounding passageways, where fascinating 15th- and 16th-century stone carvings are on display. QC-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 515 54 89/ (+372) 644 46 06, [email protected], www.kloostri.ee. J Niguliste Church - Museum Tallinn’s most famous work of art, a wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notke’s spooky, 15th-century masterpiece Dance Macabre, has its home in this 13th-century Gothic church-turned art museum. Destroyed during World War II and rebuilt during Soviet times, the church now houses a fascinating collection of medieval religious art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries, a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers, and a ‘silver chamber.’ The church is also known for its acoustics - organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00.QC-2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 631 43 30/(+372) 644 99 03 tours, [email protected], www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue Admission €3.50. J St. Catherine’s Passage One of the prettiest little walkways in all of Old Town, the medieval St. Catherine’s passage connects Vene and Müürivahe streets. On the northern portion of the passage you can find what’s left of St. Catherine’s Church (hence the passage name) and various large, ancient tombstones that used to line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion of the passage, you’ll find numerous artisan workshops, where you’ll even get see them hard at work creating new items for you to buy. At any rate, we’re sure you’ll find Katarina Käik, a pretty nice hike.QC-3. St. Olaf’s Church (Oleviste Kirik) St. Olaf’s 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark, and was the tallest building in Europe between 1549 and 1625. An old legend claims that the church was built to attract more merchant ships to the town by a mysterious craftsman who promised to work for free if the townspeople discovered his name (Olev). In reality, the church took its name from the canonised Norwegian king, Olav Havaldsson. The first mention of the church dates to 1267, but the interior dates to 1840 and reflects that era’s Historicist bent. The tower’s viewing platform is open to the public from April through October daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €2.QB-3, Lai 50, tel. (+372) 641 22 41, [email protected], www.oleviste. ee. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, 12:00, Thu 18:30 (prayer). Admission free. J June - July 2014

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Sightseeing Sightseeing tours Audioguide Old Town Tour On this self-guided tour, your own personal mobile device provides customised narration (and sound effects!) on the history and architecture of key Old Town sights. Follow the map (provided) and set your own pace. There are also tours available for the Estonian Open Air Museum and the Tallinn City Museum. Available for download to your mobile phone, android, iPhone, laptop, tablet etc. from their website for €3.49. The audioguide equipment can also be rented from the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre for €12.75, 50% discount with a Tallinn Card purchase. Qtel. (+372) 655 66 33, [email protected], www. audioguide.ee. City Bike Tours Now more than just bikes, Citybike offers tours on wheels and by foot. There are tours available for pretty much any interesting sight in and around the city. These include excursions of Old Town, including a visit to the tunnels and trips to Pirita and Kadriorg. Customised tours are also available. Excursions leave from the City Bike office in Old Town, Uus 33.QB-3, Uus 33, tel. (+372) 511 18 19, mail@ citybike.ee, www.citybike.ee. Open 09:00 - 19:00. See website for prices and details. J Ecotakso This alternative, human-powered transportation and sightseeing option runs from 11:00 - 24:00. The cost is €5/ person and lasts 15 minutes. A three-person, 1-hour tour will set the group back €50. Other rates are also available depending on routes [email protected], www. ecotakso.ee.

Hop-On Hop-Off City Tour This tour uses bright red, London-style double-decker buses to take tourists on several different routes through Tallinn. There’s a Red Line covering the town centre and Kadriorg, a Green Line connecting to Pirita, the TV Tower and the Botanic gardens, and a Blue Line that takes you to the Estonian Open Air Museum. Information for each location is provided in ten languages by Audioguide (see above), and riders can hop on and off at any stop.QC-4, Mere pst. in front of the souvenir market, tel. (+372) 627 90 80/(+372) 53 055 055, [email protected], www. citytour.ee. One-day ticket €19; two-day ticket €23. Free with 24hr, 48hr and 72hr Tallinn Card. Tallinn-Cruises Operated by the same folks who run the Monica ship which takes people to Naissaar Island, the 1hr ‘Tallinn Old Town Sightseeing’ cruise is an experience not to miss. This guided tour tells of Tallinn’s history through cheerful stories and colourful legends. In addition to an enjoyable sea cruise, you’ll get to see Tallinn from a unique point of view that most locals haven’t even experienced - the extraordinary medieval architecture of the Old Town, the unique skyline, the port area, skyscrapers and the picturesque coastline are all part of the itinerary. Depending on your preference, and of course the weather, this affordable Tallinn Old Town cruise can be enjoyed from the windows of the comfortable ship lounge or from an even better vantage point on the sun-deck. There’s also a bar where you

Sightseeing

can enjoy a variety of snacks as well as hot or cold beverages.QF-2, Seaplane Harbour Port (Küti 17), tel. (+372) 514 51 18, [email protected], www.tallinncruises.com. Departs from the Seaplane Harbour port Wed - Sun at 10:00, 13:00, 16:00 and 19:00. Ticket €20 for cruise only, €25 for dinner and a cruise. Advanced booking is required. Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour The classic general tour of Tallinn, the Official Sightseeing Tour, is made up of two parts: a bus tour of the city that covers downtown and some of the more interesting outer areas, and also a walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair takes 2.5 hours and tours run two to four times daily. See website for schedule.QD-4, Estonia pst. 3, Reisiekspert, tel. (+372) 610 86 66/(+372) 610 86 16, incoming@ reisiekspert.ee, www.travel2baltics.com. The tour costs €20. Free with Tallinn Card.

Estonian Experience If you want to make the most of your limited time, and enjoy a personal private guided tour, check out ‘Estonian Experience’. Their friendly and entertaining guides can be booked on short notice and your tour can be tailored to suit your pace and interests. The following tour prices are for 2 people: 2hr ‘Tallinn Old Town Walking Tour’ €80, 2hr ‘Tallinn Panoramic Drive’ with guide and driver €150, 4hr ‘Tallinn Old Town and Kadriorg-Pirita Tour’ - €220, 4hr ‘Paldiski and Countryside Drive’ tour - €250. See website for additional tours and info. Qtel. (+372) 53 46 40 60, [email protected], www.estonianexperience.com. Euroaudioguide This audio guide allows the user to take themselves on a tour at their leisure, using an iPod, a map and their own two feet. The narration provides loads of interesting facts and exciting tales from Tallinn’s past and it’s available at many major hotels throughout the city and the Tourist information centre (see Basics section). Available at many major hotels in the city or via download to your own mobile device. See website for prices and details.Qtel. (+372) 505 18 47, [email protected], www. euroaudioguide.com. 26 Tallinn In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing History museums Estonian History Museum - Estonian Film Museum To celebrate the 100th anniversary of Estonian Film, they will present the exhibition ‘Here We Are! The first century of Estonian film’ by the Film Museum, open until December 29, 2014. This is the first comprehensive exhibition of Estonian film history. Estonian film is introduced to visitors through the film production process, which offers a glimpse behind the scenes of this fascinating and mysterious world. The exhibition introduces scriptwriters, art directors, sets, sound, editing, premieres and casting. Hear interviews with directors and famous songs from Estonian films, all sorts of items will be on display from photographs to costumes from different productions. Anyone new to locally produced films will have plenty to discover.QF-6, Pirita tee 56, tel. (+372) 622 86 15, post@ ajaloomuuseum.ee, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €4. Joint ticket (Maarjamäe Palace and Great Guild Hall) €7. Kiek in de Kök (Peep into the Kitchen) Now fully renovated, this tower/museum is an excellent introduction to the history of Tallinn’s defences. Built 1475 - 1481, the 45m, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV’s cannonballs embedded in its walls. The top floor houses a café

great guild hall Estonian History Museum - Great Guild Hall Housed in the Great Guild Hall, this newly renovated museum’s permanent exhibition, entitled Spirit of Survival, covers 11,000 years of Estonia’s history with interactive displays and text in Estonian and English (audio-guides available in Russian and English). The building itself, built 1407 - 1410, is significant as the home of Tallinn’s union of wealthy merchants and is a sight worth visiting in its own right. As part of the renovations, several formal rooms and cellars have now been opened to the public for the first time. Next to the museum, follow the Börsi Passage where Estonia’s history is set in the stone path (when it’s not covered in snow), from the pre-history, through the present-day.QC-2, Pikk 17, tel. (+372) 641 16 30, [email protected], www.ajaloomuuseum. ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5. Joint ticket (Maarjamäe Palace and Great Guild Hall) €7. J 28 Tallinn In Your Pocket

with some excellent views. And where did the tower get its name? Check out the voyeur’s view from the windows for yourself as you climb upward.QD-1/2, Komandandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, [email protected], www. linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50. Joint ticket with the Bastion Tunnels €8.30. J St. John’s Almshouse (Jaani Seek) During road reconstruction, workers came across skeletons and other artefacts linked to the adjacent, 13th-century St. John the Baptist’s almshouse/hospital. Items on public display in this mini-museum are under glass in the spot where they were found. A multimedia display also gives more information on the almshouse and the history of the area.QH-4, Väike-Pääsukese 5, near the Radisson Hotel, tel. (+372) 615 51 94/ (+372) 53 47 39 81, [email protected], www. linnamuuseum.ee/jaaniseek. Open Wed, Thu 11:00 - 15:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission €1.30. Tallinn City Museum By far, the most modern and complete introduction to Tallinn. Appropriately built into a 14th-century merchant house, the City Museum houses elaborate displays, with English captions, demonstrating various aspects of Tallinn life through the ages.QC-3, Vene 17, tel. (+372) 615 51 80, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/ linnamuuseum. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission €3.20. J

occupation history The Museum of Occupations In the period from 1940 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in this modern museum on the edge of Old Town. High-tech audio-visual displays and art installations add life to the museum’s artefacts and texts. Through September 28th ‘The National Committee of the Republic of Estonia 70’.QD/E-1, Toompea 8, tel. (+372) 668 02 50, [email protected], www.okupatsioon.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5.

tallinn card If you’re trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn, consider picking up the city tourist office’s discount card, the Tallinn Card, good for 24hrs (€24), 48hrs (€32), or 72hrs (€40). For kids 7 - 14, the price is reduced by 50%. Cardholders get to choose from three tours, one free city tour and get discounts from a number of others. Cardholders will also gain free admission to all the city’s museums, unlimited use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and freebies, like chocolatecovered marzipan and admission to Club Hollywood. A very well written, fat booklet that comes with the card lists all the offers and benefits. The card is sold in major hotels, can be found at the airport, in the harbour and at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre (Kullassepa 4). For more details, consult the website at www.tallinncard.eeQwww.tallinncard.ee.

Quirky museums Illusion - House of Wax Figures This little wax museum just off Town Hall Square is bizarre to say the least. Some of the celebrity likenesses are decent enough, but really we’ve seen a lot better. Perhaps the best part of this exhibit is the freak-show display ie. people born with genetic defects such as three eyes etc. Coming in a close second is the R-rated 18+ section devoted to naked women - some of which have birth defects. At any rate, the ticket price isn’t too steep and photography is allowed so why not step inside, at least you’ll get some strange photos to Instagram to your Facebook friends.QC-2, Kullassepa 5. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Admission €5. J

Sightseeing

Medieval Torture Instruments It sounds like a tourist trap, and certainly is, but this Italian collection is actually fairly extensive and well researched. Two rooms house dozens of instruments of torture, most originals and come with complete explanatory texts with examples of when they were used to get people to confess to being witches, etc. Enough to make anyone a firm believer in the Geneva Convention. Some people have complained it’s a little expensive for what you get in return. We’ll let you be the judge.QC-3, Viru 3. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €6. J Patarei Prison This imposing, seaside complex in the Kalamaja district is now one of the best places in the world to catch a glimpse of Soviet-era prison life in all its dreariness. Originally opened as a sea fortress in 1840, it housed inmates from 1919 until 2004, and has been left virtually untouched since. Visitors can explore the hallways to see cells, work areas, exercise yards and the like. There are also several tours available, see website for details.QF-3, Suur-Patarei, Kalaranna 2, tel. (+372) 504 65 36, [email protected], www. patarei.org. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission €3.

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entry to 40 museums and sights city sightseeing tour offers for entertainment public transport

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on sightseeing tours in restaurants & cafés in handicraft and design shops on leisure activities

Sold in: tourist information centre, hotels, railway station, bus station, port, airport and online

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maarjamäe palace Estonian History Museum - Maarjamäe Palace The branch of the Estonian History Museum that covers the 19th and 20th centuries makes its home in this landmark house on the road to Pirita. Originally a summer house, this pseudo-Gothic ‘palace’ housed the Dutch consulate, a posh hotel, future pilots and the Soviet army, before being given to the History Museum in 1975. Permanent exhibit ‘WILL TO BE FREE. 90 Years of the Republic of Estonia.’ It showcases an extensive presentation of the history of the Republic of Estonia and was opened on the 90th anniversary of the Republic of Estonia. The exhibition is in English, Estonian and Russian and divided into four themes. QF-6, Pirita tee 56, tel. (+372) 622 86 10, fax (+372) 644 34 46, post@ aj a l o o m u u s e u m . e e, www.ajaloomuuseum. ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €4. Joint ticket (Maarjamäe Palace and Great Guild Hall) €7. June - July 2014

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Sightseeing Speciality museums Estonian Maritime Museum Centuries of seafaring history, including models, charts and other artefacts, are displayed in this multi-storied museum housed in the 16th-century Fat Margaret cannon tower. Don’t miss the antique diving equipment or the view from the roof. Through September 28 exhibition ‘Tallinn the Sprat Capital’.QA-3, Fat Margaret Tower, Pikk 70, tel. (+372) 673 30 92, [email protected], www.meremuuseum.ee/en/paks-margareeta. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5. J Estonian Museum of Natural History All your favourite taxidermied Estonian, and a few foreign, animals (not to mention dried plants and mollusks) are on display in this renovated three-storey museum designed to introduce nature to youngsters. Don’t miss the museum’s mascot, the biggest fish ever caught in the Baltics. The museum is fairly small though and English info was still a little bit lacking when we last visited, but it’s been fully modernised and is still worth a look. Check out the fascinating, live-fish exhibits and special exhibitions while you’re there. Through August 31 exhibition ‘On the Gulf of Finland’.QB-2, Lai 29a, tel. (+372) 641 17 39, [email protected], www.loodusmuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €3, family ticket €6. J

Sightseeing Estonian Theatre & Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja Muusikamuuseum) Housed in the medieval Assawe tower, the museum hosts a weird and wonderful collection of musical devices, from ancient horns to old clavicords. Splurge another €7 to get them to crank up a the curious mechanical music machines. Theatre is covered very minimally and text is mostly in Estonian.QD-2, Müürivahe 12, tel. (+372) 644 64 07, [email protected], www.tmm.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Archives open Tue-Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sat - Sun. Admission €4. English language tour available for €15. J Kalev Marzipan Room Estonia’s famous candy factory operates a tiny museum in the Old Town building where the company started back in the 19th century. There isn’t too much text, but visitors can get a look at the intricate, hand-painted marzipan creations. QC-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 41 92, www.kalev.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free. J Luscher & Matiesen Wine Museum In what started as a simple idea to promote and pay homage to a formerly thriving winery that was based on Toompea in Tallinn, Luscher and Matiesen exists once again as a brand, a budding winery on the Island Muhu and as a museum dedicated to the history of the company and to wine and spirits as a whole. The exhibits showcase the tragic history of the Luscher & Matiesen company, interesting

Tallinn City Museum branch museums:

www.linnamuuseum.ee

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2

3

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1 CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene Street The Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchant’s dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. Wed-Mon 10.30 am - 6 pm 2 Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road

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3 New! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at Lühike jalg 9a Echibition open Mon-Sun 10.30 am -7 pm CAFÉ Mon-Sun 10.30 am - 10 pm 4 PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street,

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5 CHILDREN’S MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue Street 6 HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda Street

7 MUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula Street Colourful theme museum for children 4

includes the following

Writers’ museums with authentic interiors: 8 A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street

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9 E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas 5

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legends surrounding some of the world’s most loved alcoholic beverages and allows the visitor to learn all about the Estonian drinks culture as well. There’s also a well-stocked wine and gift shop on the premises. See their website for more details and info on their winery.QC-2, Toom-Rüütli 10, tel. (+372) 56 91 29 10, [email protected], www.luschermatiesen.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €3, €10 with wine tasting. J Museum of Estonian Photography Back in the 14th century this building behind the Town Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar will show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian photography, mainly devoted to the 1840 - 1940 period. Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated studio and antique cameras on display.QC-2, City Prison, Raekoja 4/6, tel. (+372) 644 87 67, foto@linnamuuseum. ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum/. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission €2. J Russian Museum This small museum on Pikk street is dedicated to Russian culture in Estonia. They usually feature a different Russian-Estonian artist every few months or a Russian artist who spent part of their life in Estonia. During the Tsarist era many famous Russian painters, artists and writers spent time in Estonia from Pushkin to Dostoyevsky - the list is large. This small museum is not exactly ‘English’ friendly but if you are fascinated by Russian culture and how it’s influenced Estonia, the €25 English-language guided tour might be worth it. Through September 28 exhibiton ‘Orthodox Churches

tunnels under tallinn Legends, secrets and underground passages, the tunnels aren’t just for rats any more, now you can tour them, too! Built in the 17th-century by the Swedes to help protect the city, these tunnels are a fascinating relic of times past. Now having completed phase two of the renovations, visitors can ride the underground train into Tallinn’s future or take a walk into the depths of the city’s past. Watch your head though some of the passage ways can be a little ‘hard’ on you. Tours (by arrangement) run from 10:30 - 18:00, every day except Monday. For booking, contact Kiek in de Kök tel. (+372) 644 66 86. Bring warm clothing as the tunnel temperatures are 6 to 8 degrees.QD-1/2, Komandandi 2 (Kiek in de Kök), tel. (+372) 644 66 86, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/ kok. Admission €5.80, children €3.20. Joint ticket with the Kiek in de Kök €8.30. J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

and Chapels in Estonia’.QB-2/3, Pikk 29a, tel. (+372) 608 00 16, [email protected], www.vemu.ee. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €2. J Seaplane Harbour & Museum The freshly opened and highly interactive Seaplane Harbour and Museum will certainly fill in a lot of the blanks when it comes to Estonia’s maritime history. This modern museum is housed in architecturally unique seaplane hangers, which include structures that were part of the Peter the Great Naval Fortress between 1916-1917. The Submarine Lembit, the Suur Tõll steam icebreaker (Toell the Great, in English), the Short Type 184 seaplane, and many other large exhibits are on display here. You’ll get a chance to take part in maritime history, as well as participate in the many hands-on exhibits.QF-3, Küti 17, tel. (+372) 641 14 08/(+372) 57 87 58 15 (groups), info@ lennusadam.eu, www.lennusadam.eu. Open 10:00 19:00. Admission €10. K

streaking skywards! TV Tower Officially opened on November 7th (Soviet Revolution Day) in 1980, the 314m tower was, and is, an imposing example of Soviet engineering. From its observation deck at the 170m level, you can see Finland on a clear day. The renovated tower features an interactive Estonian Hall-of-Fame exhibition, a museum and a swank restaurant. One of the more exciting features include some pretty freaky floor-windows that you’re encouraged to jump on and you can take full advantage of ‘streaking skyward’ in the lightning-fast elevators. You’re also invited to take part in their 175 metre-high ‘EdgeWalk’, which just might possibly be the scariest thing you’ve ever done, even though you’re attached to the tower by a safety harness. Take bus N°34A or 38 from the Viru Keskus bus terminal to Teletorn stop. QKloostrimetsa 58a, tel. (+372) 57 50 36 50/(+372) 686 30 05, [email protected], www.teletorn.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €8 per person, family ticket €17. After 19:00 restaurant admission €3. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Garden and TV Tower is €11. See website for further admission info. HKW June - July 2014

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Sightseeing tallinn Botanical garden With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia, the gardens are a well-kept secret. Around 8,000 species are arranged on 123ha of land, with large modern greenhouses where you can find displays of tropical, subtropical and desert plants. Take bus N°34A or 38 to the Kloostrimetsa stop. July 4 - 6: Honey and Fragrant Plants. July 11 - 13: Days of Roses.QKloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. (+372) 606 26 66, [email protected], www.botaanikaaed.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00. greenhouses open 11:00 - 18:00. Admission €5. A joint ticket for the Tallinn botanical garden and TV Tower is €11. see website for further admission info.

Town forTificATions With 46 towers, medieval Tallinn was known as ‘one of the most fortified burgs in all Northern Europe’. Today 1.85km of the original city wall and 20 towers survive several of them are open to the public. epping tower The focus of the museum inside the Epping tower is an interactive exhibition that walks the visitor through the history and development of medieval defence systems. On display are items pertaining to the towers’ history, including suits of armour and complete maps of how the town looked during the 15th-century. Make sure you climb all the way to the top, the view of Old Town is pretty cool.Qb-2, Laboratooriumi 31, tel. (+372) 601 30 01, [email protected], www. eppingtower.info. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission €4. J fat margaret’s tower (paks margareeta) Originally constructed in the 14th century and arguably one of the top sights in the city, Paks Margareta as she is known to locals, is 82m in diameter and boasts 5m thick walls. At one point, Tallinn’s harbour was just outside the Great Coastal Gate and she certainly provided a formidable defence against any hostile forces trying enter the city here. The tower currently houses the Estonian Maritime Museum, see museum entry for details.QA-3, pikk 70. J hellemann tower gallery This medieval structure has been converted into an art gallery, but paying the small entrance fee will let you have a look at the inside of the tower and give you a chance to walk along a section of the original town wall where you’ll get a pigeons-eye view of Old Town. Don’t forget to check out the various exhibitions being held here as well.QC-3, Müürivahe 48, tel. (+372) 56 32 Tallinn In Your Pocket

64 65 98, [email protected], www.hellemann.ee. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission €4. J maiden’s tower museum and café Originally erected in 1370-73, the tower has undergone extensive renovations and it’s been reconnected to the adjacent defence tower. Neitsitorn, again, features a newly revived café that was very popular in the early 1980’s, as well as historical exhibits reflecting these fortifications and the stories that go along with them. The museum mostly contains old glass bottles and a few other historical artefacts. The eatery, which actually spans three floors, is decent but a little pricey - the view however, is certainly worth it.QD-1, Danish King’s garden, tel. (+372) 601 26 05, neitsitorn@ linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/ neitsitorn. Open 10:30 - 19:00. Café open 10:30 22:00. Admission €2. entrance to the café is free of charge after 18:30, visitors recieve a 10% discount with the purchase of a museum ticket. JBK nunne, sauna and kuldjala towers Three of the oldest towers are open to the public, entrance at this spot.Qb-2, gümnaasiumi 3, tel. (+372) 644 98 67, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Tour hours may vary. Call ahead to make sure they are open. Admission €1.50. J viru gates The main entrance into Old Town is marked by these beautiful twin gate towers, which are only a fraction of a previous gate structure. The gate entrance was composed of a large tower, walls and the existing two towers. Unfortunately the larger inner gate towers were destroyed, but if you close your eyes we’re sure that you can picture what they would have looked like.QC-3. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

tallinn car museum The exhibition of the Tallinn Car Museum can be divided in two parts: interesting models with a long history from different countries and producers plus the so-called ‘nostalgia cars’. The latter are the cars used during the Soviet times. In Estonia, people felt very close to these cars and in many cases the cars were treated as family members. According to the museum “in every Estonian family a father, grandfather or some close relative has used one of these cars.” If you’re a car buff this is certainly worth a visit.QK-7, paldiski mnt 135a, tel. (+372) 514 14 44, info@ automuuseum.ee, www.automuuseum.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Admission €4.90. N the marzipan museum The room of this little shop/museum has a few more creations than the Kalev Marzipan Room, but is not quite steeped in as much history. Visitors do however get the chance to build their own marzipan figurines and even receive a gift-box to house the sweet creation. The marzipan sculpturing experience will set you back €4.QC-3, pikk 40, tel. (+372) 646 06 26, [email protected], www. martsipan.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Marzipan history tour for groups from 10-30 people costs €4.50 per person. Call for details. J

For art museum and gallery listings please check Culture & Events section

cAT’s well Before you complain about the chalky taste of Tallinn’s tap water, you might want to stop to consider what the town’s Medieval residents had to put up with. This wheel well on the corner of Rataskaevu and Dunkri in the Old Town was once one of the main sources of water for the Tallinn. According to legend, some of the locals got it into their heads that an evil water spirit lived in the well and threatened to make all the town’s wells run dry if it wasn’t given regular animal sacrifices. To keep the spirit happy, some cattle and sheep carcasses were thrown down the well, but the main victims were stray cats, who were rounded up and tossed, sometimes live, down the shaft. This practice was so common that the locals started calling this watering hole ‘Cat’s Well.’ In a sense, the sacrifices worked - the town’s wells never ran dry. But the practice of throwing animals down the well didn’t do much for the water quality, and the Cat’s Well had fallen into disuse by the mid 19th century. Rest assured that nowadays Tallinn’s water is much safer to drink, and the cats of Old Town no longer live in fear.QC-2.

FRESHEST SALAD, PASTA AND PIZZA IN TOWN! VAPIANO FOORUM

Foorum Centre, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn

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PASTA & PIZZA from

5,50€ June - July 2014

33

Sightseeing

Sightseeing

Discover the discoverer in you

museums & fun For families Doll Museum Just as the name implies, this museum is a treasure trove of dolls, antique and modern. Small and geared toward kids, the museum proudly presents its permanent exhibition, Old Beloved Toys.QA-1, Kotzebue 16, tel. (+372) 641 34 91, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum.ee/ lastemuuseum. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €2. Estonian Children’s Literature Centre This literature centre predominately features children’s books in the Estonian language, but also has a good selection of books in other languages as well. The centre also has a few permanent and special exhibitions, including the Edgar Valter gallery, which is dedicated to the loved children’s author and illustrator. Many of the displays are interesting for young and old alike, no matter what your Estonian language skills. Groups should book in advance by calling (+372) 617 72 35.QA-3, Pikk 73, tel. (+372) 617 72 30, [email protected], www. elk.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J new Energy Discovery Centre This centre of discovery re-opens its unique facilities in a renovated 101-year-old power plant building just opposite Old Town. The first of its kind in the Baltics, the Energy Discovery Center is a leading institution in the field of science, technology, engineering and math education in Estonia. The building houses unique historic devices from these fields and more than 130 hands-on exhibits dealing with themes such as electricity, renewable energy sources, magnetics nuclear energy, sound and optics. Perhaps one of the coolest exhibits will actually allow the visitor to experience lighting - up close and personal. They also have a virtual planetarium, interesting theatre programmes and some great workshops. The first temporary exhibit will be titled ‘Discover the Art of Math’. The grand opening will take place on June 13.QA-3, Põhja pst. 29, tel. (+372) 715 26 50, [email protected], www.energiakeskus.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Admission €9, family ticket €25.

Exciting and educational exhibits for the whole family on electricity and energy, sound and light, chaos and cosmos. In the brand new Energy Discovery Centre!

choo choo

From June 13th Põhja pst 29, Tallinn 34 Tallinn In Your Pocket

energiakeskus.ee

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

City Train This is a happy, blue little tourist train that makes a 20-minute circuit through the streets of Old Town all year long. Departures are from Town Hall Square (C-2). Great fun for both kids and kids-at-heart. Ride costs €6 for adults and €4 for the kids.Qtel. (+372) 58 87 77 42, tallinnarong@ gmail.com. Open 11:30 - 19:00. J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Estonian Puppet Theatre The elaborate Puppet Theatre has been a staple of local entertainment since 1952. It also houses an extensive, hightech museum that deals with puppet theatre history and pretty much anything else related to the ‘puppet-verse’. Performances are in Estonian, but small children of any language can still be thrilled by the fun characters on display. They’ve also got something called a ‘steampunk’ show, which can be viewed from the window on Nunne street 8 (C-2) every half an hour - or immediately by dialling the displayed phone number from your mobile phone. This bit of animated madness, created by the brilliant Keith Newstead, is guaranteed to take the viewer to another world- “Puff, the Magic Dragon” anybody?QC-2, Lai 1, tel. (+372) 667 95 55, [email protected], www.nuku.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. J Miia-Milla-Manda This hands-on museum just for kids is located in the beautiful Kadriorg Park and is especially geared towards children between the ages of 3 and 11. The playful exhibits are constantly changing and with active themes the little ones are sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion - or so we hope.QG-5, Koidula 21A, tel. (+372) 601 70 57, [email protected], www.linnamuuseum. ee/miiamillamanda. Open 12.00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Family ticket €5.20.

let the play begin NUKU Museum of Puppet Arts Who ever thought puppets could be so interesting. This museum, which showcases pretty much everything there is to about puppets and puppetry is an interactive experience the whole family can enjoy. From touchscreens, to a personalised experience via your very own code - the old caveat “look but don’t touch” certainly does not apply here. If you’re lucky you’ll even get a chance to see puppets being made in the workshop upstairs and you’ll also be able to make your very own souvenir of the whole experience. This is the museum of the future.QC2, Nunne 8, tel. (+372) 667 95 55, muuseum@nuku. ee, www.nuku.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. From June 25 open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Puppet-making workshops open Tue - Sun from 12:00 - 18:00, from June 25 Fri - Sun 11:00 - 17:00. For group bookings call (+372) 667 95 09. Admission €5. J

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Sightseeing - Kadriorg

Sightseeing - Kadriorg ace is now home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. In addition to perusing the nation’s collection of foreign art, visitors get to see the mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall, and the room upstairs that served as president’s office in the 1930s. Don’t miss the lavish manicured gardens, out back.QG-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. (+372) 606 64 03, kadriorg@ekm. ee, www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.80.

Kadriorg area Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential Palace and several art museums. Tram N°1 will also get you there. Once you’ve arrived, nearly everything you want to see is located conveniently on, or just next to, the same short stretch of Weizenbergi. The park also has it’s own info kiosk located at Weizenbergi 33 across from the Swan Pond. Please turn to page 72 for a list of eateries in the area. Kadriorg Palace Italian master architect Niccolo Michetti designed this magnificent, Northern Baroque palace in 1718 at the request of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, who intended to use it as a summer residence for the royal family. The emperor named the estate for his wife Catherine I (‘Catherine’ is ‘Kadri’ in Estonian), hence the name of the area. The pal-

kadriorg for kids Miia-Milla-Manda This hands-on museum just for kids is located in the beautiful Kadriorg Park and is especially geared towards children between the ages of 3 and 11. The playful exhibits are constantly changing and with active themes the little ones are sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion - or so we hope.QG-5, Koidula 21A, tel. (+372) 601 70 57, mmmm@linnamuuseum. ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Open 12.00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Family ticket €5.20.

Kadriorg Park Museum & Library This small museum is dedicated to the park’s history, as well as to the architecture of other parks around Estonia. Changing exhibits and a library.QG-5, Weizenbergi 26, tel. (+372) 601 31 83, [email protected], www.kadriorupark. ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admisson free. Kumu Estonia’s largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia’s past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. See the Kumu listing in the Culture & Events section for more info about ongoing exhibits.QG-6, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. (+372) 602 60 00/(+372) 602 60 02, [email protected], www.kumu. ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibition €4.20, contemporary art €2.60, all exhibitions €5.50.

Park and Swan Pond The entire leafy park northeast of Weizenbergi is crisscrossed with paths, perfect for a wandering visitor. The forest includes several horse chestnuts planted here in 1722 that were supposed to be replanted later in St. Petersburg, but never were. The most visited spot here is the recently renovated Swan Pond, an artificial, rectangular pond with a picturesque gazebo in the middle. It looks like something out of a Chekhov play, and is a required stop on any tour of Kadriorg. Bring plenty of film for the camera and food for the ducks and swans.QG-5. Peter The Great House Museum (Peeter I majamuuseum) This humble little cottage’s claim to fame is that this was where Russian Tsar Peter the Great stayed during his visits to Tallinn before his Kadriorg Palace was complete. In fact it’s still filled with Peter’s furniture, portraits and other artefacts from his interesting life.QG-6, Mäekalda 2, tel. (+372) 601 31 36, [email protected], www. linnamuuseum.ee/peetrimaja. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €2. Presidential Palace For a few years during Estonia’s first period of independence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palace’s style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much flourish. Since the building once again serves as the President’s office and residence, it’s closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a better view and, if your timing is lucky, you’ll see the honour guards marching out front.QG-6, Weizenbergi 39.

KUMU ART MUSEUM Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Tallinn

36 Tallinn In Your Pocket

OPEN: May–Sept Tue 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm Oct–Apr Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm

www.kumu.ee tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Russalka monument This striking sculpture of an angel facing out into the sea horizon is a memorial to the 177 men of the Russalka, a Russian military ship that tragically sunk while en route to Helsinki in 1893. Created by famed Estonian sculptor A.H. Adamson, the monument has become a Tallinn landmark and a traditional spot for Russian couples to lay flowers on their wedding day.QG-6, Across Narva mnt., by the shore. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Playpark Located right in front of the Miia-Milla-Manda museum, this kids play park features several sections, depending on age-group, and certainly has enough attractions to keep them all happy and busy. Ice-cream kiosk and kid’s electric car rental are great bonuses during the warmer months.

pirita area A bit further out from Kadriorg is another district that provides an escape from the city’s bustle - Pirita. This historic district is actually within Tallinn city limits, only a 10 - 15 minute ride from the centre. When you get here though, you’ll never believe you were in Tallinn; suddenly you’re surrounded by lush forest, fresh air and, best of all - silence. When most Tallinners think of Pirita, they think of the popular beach, which can get packed with thousands of nearly naked bodies on any sunny weekend (See Active Tallinn section). Getting here is simple. Take bus N°1, 1A, 8, 34A or 38 from the underground stop at the Viru Centre. For the beach, convent or river area, get off at the Pirita stop, which is the first one after you cross the river. St. Bridget’s Convent Ruins Rising up along the banks of the Pirita River, the spectacular ruins of this 15th-century convent make one of Tallinn’s more fascinating historic sights. Founded in 1407 by the Bridgetine Order, the convent was unique in that it housed both monks and nuns. The convent crumbled in a siege by Ivan the Terrible in 1577 and its stones were later carted off to construction projects throughout Tallinn. What remains today are the towering Gothic gable and walls of the main hall, as well as some surrounding foundations and cellars.QKloostri tee 9, tel. (+372) 605 50 44/(+372) 58 17 35 60, [email protected], www. piritaklooster.ee. Open 10:00 18:00. Admission €2. June - July 2014

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Sightseeing - Rocca al Mare Home to the great Tallinn Zoo, the Estonian Open Air Museum, some excellent cycling, roller blading, walking paths, the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre and some lovely sea views of Tallinn - the Rocca al Mare area, already long popular with locals, is fast becoming a destination for vistors to the city as well. Find it in area K-7 on the city centre map. Getting there: Rocca al Mare is a mere 20-minute ride from the centre by public transport or a 10-minute taxi ride. If you choose public transport to reach the Open Air Museum, take either bus N°21 or 21b from the train station to the Rocca al Mare stop. The Zoo and the shopping centre can be reached either by trolleybus No 6 or bus No 22 from Vabaduse Square alternately, trolleybus No 7 from Balti jaam train station will also take you to the same stop. Ride one more stop (to Haabersti) to reach the western gate of the zoo and some of the eateries in the neighbourhood (some walking required). A visit to this area certainly won’t leave you hungry either and you’ll especially need a nice bit to eat and a chance to sit down after pretty much any activity in the Rocca al Mare area. There are decent places to eat within the shopping centre itself such as the Japanese Silk and Little India and a few great places near the western entrance to the zoo like the Italian restaurant Rucola and the French Lyon Café (both about a 10-minute walk from the Haabersti bus stop).

what to see and do

lyon café & boulangerie

Rocca Al Mare centre

Estonian Open Air Museum Put on your hiking boots! This outdoor museum includes a whopping 70 buildings, mostly farm-related, sprawled out across 70ha of forest and land in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf. There are even a couple of windmills, some sheep, pigs, chickens, and you can also take a ride on the horse-drawn waggon or sleigh - depending on the weather. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German guide you through 150 years of farming history. Sample the pea soup and other traditional and hearty foods at the Kolu Inn (Kolu Kőrts). Take bus N°21 or 21b from the train station to Rocca al Mare stop.QK-7, Vabaőhumuuseumi tee 12, tel. (+372) 654 91 00/(+372) 654 91 01, [email protected], www.evm.ee. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission €6. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is €22, and may be used on separate days.

This café and boulangerie, situated right next to the western entrance of the Tallinn Zoo, brings a touch of France to Tallinn. The atmosphere is both stylish as well as cosy and the service comes with a smile. Naturally, fresh pastries and desserts (including their famous mouth-watering eclairs) can be found here, but they also offer a full menu and a great wine selection for those interested in the finer side of dining. Bon appétit!QK-7, Meistri 22, tel. (+372) 622 92 18. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. €€. L

Now one of the largest shopping malls in Estonia, it has pretty much everything you could possibly want to spend your Euros on, including international brands such as Marks & Spencer, Debenhams and H&M among many others. If you’re looking for something unique, you’ll even find some great Estonian brands and items here as well. The shopping mall is also home to a large supermarket, a great indoor play-park and a number of speciality shops and eateries.QK-7, Paldiski mnt 102, tel. (+372) 665 91 00, [email protected], www. roccaalmare.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00 Supermarket open 08:00 - 23:00. OULKSW

Tallinn Zoo (Loomaaed) Tallinn’s animal garden boasts one of the most impressive collections of exotic species in Northern Europe. Birds of prey are to the left, a Siberian tiger, Amur leopards and polar bears are straight ahead as you pass the indoor viewing areas. You can check out the ‘Elephant and Rhinoceros House’, which also features loads of snakes and pigmy hippos, or duck into the steamy, crocodile and chimp-filled Tropical House. The cute baby polar bear is a must-see and you also won’t want to miss the Tallinn In Your Pocket spon-

sored Bennett’s wallabies, located near the domestic yaks. Take bus N°22 or trolleybus N°6 from the Vabaduse väljak to the Zoo stop. QK-7, Paldiski mnt. 145, tel. (+372) 694 33 00, [email protected], www.tallinnzoo.ee. Ticket office is open 09:00 - 19:00. Indoor expositions (Tropical house, Elephant house) 10:00 - 20:00, closed Mon. You are allowed to wander the zoo 2 hours after the ticket office closes. Admission €7. Family and children’s prices available too. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is €22 and can be used on separate days.

Sightseeing - Rocca al Mare area

COME AND MEET TALLINN’S WILDLIFE!

of these cars.” If you’re a car buff this is certainly worth a visit.QK-7, Paldiski mnt 135a, tel. (+372) 514 14 44, info@ automuuseum.ee, www.automuuseum.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Admission €4.90. N

Tallinn Car Museum The exhibition of the Tallinn Car Museum can be divided in two parts: interesting models with a long history from different countries and producers plus the so-called ‘nostalgia cars’. The latter are the cars used during the Soviet times. In Estonia, people felt very close to these cars and in many cases the cars were treated as family members. According to the museum “in every Estonian family a father, grandfather or some close relative has used one

italian restaurant

TALLINN ZOO: Paldiski mnt. 145/ Ehitajate tee 150 Tel (+372) 6 94 33 00, www.tallinnzoo.ee. Transport: from Centre of City - trolley 6, bus 22 (Zoo stop); from Baltic Railway Station trolley 7, bus 21 (Zoo stop). 38 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Rucola Located near the western entrance of the zoo, this restaurant/pizzeria has got those particular touches that, although not a rare thing in Tallinn, certainly reflect the input of a native.The interior design is fresh and crisp and so are the pizzas. The prices are decent and you can even take home some authentic wines and food products from the small shop next door. A great little play place for the kids as well as complimentary water and fresh bread all make Rucola a spot to visit again.QK-7, Ehitaja tee 114a, tel. (+372) 564 41 00, [email protected], www.rucola.ee. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. TLSW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

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oastalAround Getaway Tallinn

Military remnants on Naissaare island

Islands around Tallinn Estonia has 1521 islands and there are actually a few worth visiting close to Tallinn. The closest and most easily accessible (during the warmer months) are, Naissaar, Prangli and Aegna. There are of course possibilities to rent a boat to get to some of the smaller ones as well. Aegna Not nearly as exciting or perhaps ‘explosive’ as Naissaar Island, the smaller Aegna is still certainly worth checking out for its nature, rich history and relative seclusion. Main attractions are the many hiking trails, an old cemetery and some military installations. More info from www.aegna.ee (in Estonian only) and www.visitestonia.com.

therefore strict rules on how to develop land and it’s usage must be observed. Two different trails will take you past various Naissaar sights. More info about Naissaar www. naissaarele.ee. Museum: www.rannarahvamuuseum.ee/ eng/naissaare-muuseum, tel. (+372) 606 69 41. Museum is open from May through September.

Visitors looking for a chance to escape the city and experience Estonia's famous natural beauty, with plenty of history and local culture to boot, have a fantastic option within easy reach: Viimsi. This tranquil peninsula just across Tallinn's border to the north is loved for its rocky coastline, sand beaches and lush forests.

Getting there Regularly scheduled trips on the ship, Monica (tel. (+372) 514 51 18, www.tallinn-cruises.com/naissaar). The ship leaves from the Seaplane Harbour Port and a round trip ticket costs €20. The ride takes just over an hour and the boat runs from June through August, Wed - Sun 10:00, 13:00. Book tickets in advance at [email protected]. Alternately you can opt for the ship Vesta (tel. (+372) 53 05 01 04 www.veeteed.com). The boat departs next to Fish Market on Kalasadama street and runs from June 10 through August on Tuesdays at 10:00, 13:00, and 16:30. A round trip ticket is €20.

Estonians know it as the nation's most prestigious address, its status as a high-income area made plain by the grand villas that mix oddly with the humble summer houses and crumbling, Soviet-era factory buildings that dot its villages. Foreigners, particularly those from Finland, have come to know it as a high-class spa destination – it's home to Estonia's only eco spa – and a place for minor cosmetic surgery.

Getting there Regular trips aboard the ship Wrangö (tel. (+372) 53 06 25 65, www.veeteed.com). Ship leaves from Leppneeme, Viimsi every day. See website for schedule. Round trip ticket is €12. Please check also the Tallinn Day Trip Tours operator listing in Active Tallinn.

40 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Villa

y

Mar

Getting there & getting around

Kite- and windsurfers

RootS restaurant Restaurant Paat Open Air Museum

Getting there Regular trips with ship Vesta (tel. (+372) 53 05 01 04 www. veeteed.com). Boat starts next to Fish Market in Kalasadama street, see website for schedule. Round trip ticket is €6. Naissaar Nature, beaches, military history and most of all mines the kind that explode - are what Tallinners think of when they talk about Naissaar, an island 11km long and 4km wide just off the Estonian coast in the Gulf of Finland. Naissaar literally mean’s ‘women’s island,’ a name that an 11thcentury legend tells us comes from the beautiful maidens who at one time inhabited the island along with a group of hideous, beastly men. Only six families now have houses on the island and only two of them live there year-round. The island was declared a nature preserve since 1995, and

Viimsi - Touched by the sea

Prangli The smallest of the three islands we have listed here, Prangli, like most of the habitable Estonian islands was once home to Swedes. Small as it may be, the island has a rich history including stories of pirate treasure, mysterious stone labyrinths and much more. Main attractions on Prangli include the natural surroundings, a museum, an old church and of course the cave sauna - which is actually more of a ‘boulder’ sauna but probably still a lot of fun. See www.prangli.com and www.tallinndaytrip.com for more details. There are also accommodations available from the good people at Harbour hostel and camping cabins: (+372) 56 67 14 96, [email protected].

Viimsi has much more in store though: It offers an extensive military museum, another two intriguing museums that focus on traditional coastal culture, some great hiking and biking trails, and this spring it will be home to the nation's first 4K Ultra High Definition cinema. It also has its own, unforgettable island getaways in the form of Naissaar, a long-time military outpost, and Prangli, a place for seal watching and tuning into a centuries-old island vibe.

Museum of Costal Folk

ic clin za Peetri Piz ental d men um Lu nik moo Hotel and Cafe Har Viimsi manor Lavendel Estonian War Museum

The most sights, and warmest beaches, are on Viimsi's west coast, which is followed by a road and a dedicated bike path. Nearly the entire coastline, however, is accessible to dedicated cyclists.

Naissaare island even has a train line

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Exploration of the peninsula is easiest by car, or even by bike, but public transport is also an option. Reaching Viimsi is easy. Departing every 15 - 20 minutes, bus N°1A makes the half-hour trip from the terminal under Tallinn's Viru Centre to the central Viimsi Keskus stop. Alternatively, bus N°114 leaves roughly hourly from the Hobujaama stop on Narva mnt. serving the most built-up areas before continuing to the tip of the peninsula at Rohuneeme. Within Viimsi, bus lines (numbered V1 to V7) operated by GoBus will connect you to the villages. See www.peatus. ee for the schedules.

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Viimsi - The Great Coastal Getaway

Viimsi - The Great Coastal Getaway

ued even after the collective's closure at the end of the Soviet period and has become even more pronounced in the last decade, sending the population soaring from around 6,000 in 2005 to nearly 20,000 today.

Viimsi Open Air Museum

Echoes and booms of the ages Evidence of human activity on Viimsi dates back to the stone age, with the first inhabitants of the area fishermen and seal hunters. In the medieval times, it was probably ethnic Swedes who made up the population. Records from 1471 show Viimsi Manor as a supplier farm for the nearby Pirita Monastery, and later the land was ruled by Baltic German noble families. Small fishing villages flourished throughout the centuries until the post-World War II era when Soviet authorities made the coast a restricted area and cut off access. The traditional way of life then died out, but Viimsi survived as the centre of the Kirov Collective Fishery, which grew into an enormous institution and one of the most successful collectives in the USSR. The higher salaries it offered were the start of Viimsi's relative wealth, a phenomenon that contin-

The original Viimsi Manor house no longer exists, but its 19th-century replacement – the first attraction as you're coming in from the south – lives on. The manor was given to General Johan Laidoner, who led Estonia to victory in its War of Independence (1918-1920) and used the manor as his home. It now serves as the Estonian War Museum – General Laidoner Museum, which covers all eras of Estonia's military history. (Further details on all the museums mentioned here can be found in our listings, which follow.) The adjacent manor park is a public green area, while other manor buildings fulfill roles of guesthouse and restaurant.

Hobnobbing in Haabneeme The peninsula's most populous and built-up area is Haabneeme, home to shops, restaurants and spas, the largest of which even rents out bicycles. Heading north on Randvere tee takes you past the sprawling, modern Viimsi Kool, the largest school in Estonia. Turn right here to reach the cliff area below Lubja, a popular spot for outdoor adventure. It's the site of the Viimsi Seikluspark, which offers climbing activities and challenging “trails” that take you from tree to tree. You don't need a ticket however to follow the marked hiking trails here. Follow signs on one of them to find the Hundikoobas (Wolf's Cave),

Villa Mary Restaurant & Club

bike rental treat One great way to get to Viimsi from Tallinn is by bicycle, in fact most of the ride is a pretty smooth one utilising a great scenic, seaside path for most of the journey. The folks over at Citybike (see p.50) will rent you a bike for a special daily rate of €10 - the only catch is that you take a photo of the bicycle with a recognisable Viimsi location in the background and show it to them. The 12km ride takes a mere 45 min. if you pedal at a reasonable pace. A perfect way to take in the views, get some fresh sea air and a great way to stay fit. which extends 16m back into the hill. Reach the top to find the 19th-century lighthouse that serves all of Viimsi. It's not open to the public, but still worth a look. At the other edge of Haabneeme, its west coast, you'll find Viimsi's only developed beach, which includes things like toilets, changing areas, play equipment and even a summer café. Many locals prefer to seek out the wilder beaches on this side of the peninsula, where there is less wind and the water is warmest. Further up the main coastal road is the RMK Viimsi Nature Centre (open Tue - Thu 12:00 – 17:00), where you can find out about local flora and fauna. Forests on Viimsi are partly state-owned and partly private. Exploring them you might see elk, deer and foxes, and an elusive lynx has even been spotted at Taamneeme. Behind the centre is an old border guard tower you can climb for the view.

Up the Left Coast

Leaving Haabneeme, you'll pass the cute-looking and fairly new Viimsi Evangelical Church before reaching the village of Pringi. Turn right on Nurme tee to find one of Viimsi's must-see sights, the Rannarahva muuseum (Museum of Coastal Folk). Built into a 1925-era schoolhouse, it provides

excellent insights into Viimsi life through the ages. Across the street is the modern and somehow Finnish-looking Viimsi St. Jacob's Church, which hosts art exhibits and performances in addition to its religious function. Back on the coast, just to the north, is another must-see sight, the Viimsi Vabaõhumuuseum (Open Air Museum), where a gathering of thatched-roof houses, fishing huts and other accoutrements show what life was like in a 19th-century coastal community.

The northern cape and down east Continuing north, you pass Pandju Saar, a tiny island whose unusual shape means you can walk to it from the beach, though it’s closed through spring and early summer to protect the wildlife. Rohuneeme, Viimsi’s northernmost village, is your destination. This area of the coast is a favourite among windsurfers and kite surfers. The Rohuneeme Port provides private boat trips to the nearby islands as well as water sports (see www.watersport.ee). Following the street (Saare tee) to the endpoint brings you to the estate of the nation’s much-loved Lennart Meri (1929-2006) who served as president of Estonia from 1992 to 2001. His isn’t the grand mansion on the left – that belongs to a successful, local builder. Meri’s house is hidden well beyond the gate, at the tip of the cape. Going back inland, down Kalmistu tee, you’ll find the charming Rohuneeme Chapel, with its surrounding rock walls and cemetery. Leppneeme Port, on the northeast edge of the peninsula, is the starting point for trips to Prangli island. Further south you come to the village of Randvere, where the tiny Randvere St. Peter’s Church is the main attraction. It was built from 1848 to 1852, but its cemetery dates to 1803.

SEASIDE VILLA WITH AMAZING VIEWS RESTAURANT I SUMMER TERRACE I HOTEL MON-SAT: 12-23; SUN: 12-18 Rohuneeme tee 103 Viimsi (+372) 53 044 794 VillaMaryRestoran

www.villamary.ee Rohuneeme Chapel

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Viimsi - The Great Coastal Getaway

Exhibition is in English, Russian and Estonian languages, entrance is free.

Museum of Coastal Folk Viimsi Open Air Museum

ONE TICKET, TWO MUSEUMS! Open daily 10.00-20.00 BAÕHUMU VA

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A Unique Pearl in the Sea of Museums

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Rohuneeme tee 29, Haabneeme, Viimsi vald Phone: +372 676 7842 [email protected], www.loodusegakoos.ee

Museum of Coastal Folk An antique bus serves as the signpost for this fantastic little museum, housed in the type of historic, red wooden schoolhouse traditionally used in the coastal Swedish areas of Estonia. The main aim of the museum is to highlight how important the sea has been to the people of Estonia throughout the ages. From fishing to seal hunting to trade, Estonian-dwellers have long utilised the sea and her strategic geographic position between East and West. Permanent exhibits include an introduction to the Kirov Fishing Collective that dominated Viimsi life in the Soviet era, as well as ‘Stop! Border Zone’, a look back at the decades when barbed wire and soldiers kept locals from the coast. The new temporary exhibit, ‘Silverwhitest’, inspired by the works of writer, ethnographer and former president Lennart Meri, showcases the so-called Fenno-Baltic economic heyday of the 11th and 12th centuries. The museum also features a great kid’s play area and a gift-shop that’s loaded with intriguing finds. Getting there: Take bus N°114 and get off at the Rannarahva stop. Walk back a bit and the museum is on the left.QNurme tee 3, Pringi, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 606 69 41, [email protected], www. rannarahvamuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €3 and includes entrance to the Viimsi Open Air Museum.

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We are open every day 10-18

Getting there: Take bus N°1A to Viimsi vallamaja stop. Walk back to the main road and turn right, another 50m and it will be the large pink building on your left.QMõisa tee 1, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 621 74 10, [email protected], www. esm.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission free. An in-depth and guided tour can be had for groups of up to 10 people for a mere €6.40.

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Can you feel the way the forest is touching you? What is at stake in the forest? Where power of the forest is hidden? You can find answers to those and many other questions from the exhibition at RMK Viimsi Nature Center.

Viimsi Open Air Museum This quaint little open air museum offers a peek at what life was like throughout the ages in coastal areas of Estonia. Here you can find a collection of seaside-farmhouses spanning 150 years and even enter many of the buildings. It also features a great little fishing shed and a ‘cellar of illegal spirits’ among many other structures. Throughout the year they host various cultural programmes and events as well as a great farmer’s market every Saturday from 9:00 - 14:00. Great view of Tallinn as well across the bay. Getting there: Take bus N°114 to the Rannarahva stop. Walk about 500m and museum is on the left next to the sea.QRohuneeme tee 51, Pringi, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 606 69 52, www.rannarahvamuuseum.ee/viimsivabaohumuuseum/. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €3 and includes entrance to the Museum of Coastal Folk.

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POWER IN THE FOREST!

Estonian War Museum - General Laidoner Museum Housed in Viimsi Manor, the former home of Johan Laidoner who was perhaps the most influential war hero in Estonian history, the Estonian War Museum is a great place to start if you’d like to learn more about this country’s history. Over hundreds of years, Estonia has had troops fighting on its soil from Denmark, Sweden, Germany, Poland, Russia and has even hosted a fair share of Viking battles. Inside you’ll find all sorts of displays and info on the various wars Estonia has been involved in, as well as exhibits on the role the country’s armed forces currently play around the world as a member of NATO.

RMK Viimsi Nature Centre This nature centre, run by RMK (the Estonian nature conservation authority) is perfectly located and surrounded by the beautiful nature of Viimsi. The centre offers the visitor plenty of information not just about the natural areas in Viimsi, but also covers Estonia’s nature in general. Here you can learn about the different recreational activities available around the country, the work that RMK does, as well as discover interesting facts on the various plant and wildlife which are so abundant in Estonia.QRohuneeme tee 29, Haabneeme, tel. (+372) 676 78 42, www. loodusegakoos.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. U

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Viimsi - The Great Coastal Getaway

Beachside restaurant-bar PAAT offers a picturesque view to the Bay of Tallinn and unforgettable dining experience both in-and outdoors.

WWW.PAAT.EE, [email protected] Rannarestoran Paat

+372 6090840

Viimsi - The Great Coastal Getaway

Rannarestoran Paat Paat is the Estonian word for ‘boat’ and once you see this uniquely designed, beach-side establishment in the Viimsi area north of Tallinn - you’ll understand where it gets its name. The menu includes classical seafood items, meat dishes and creative vegetarian options Many of the ingredients used here come from local fishermen and farmers. Perhaps one of the biggest highlights of dining at Paat is the great view of Tallinn across the sea. To get here catch minibus N°260 behind the Estonia theatre at the Viru bus stop and ask the driver to stop at Paat.QRohuneeme tee 53, tel. (+372) 609 08 40, [email protected], www.paat.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PT6UEBSW Roots Just a short distance from the Coastal Folk Museum, this fun and whimsical gastropub is all about the relaxed atmosphere, friendly service and good food. The head-chef’s inspirations come from all over the globe. In line with their service-oriented philosophy, they also have a great kids menu, including an option where you can let them know what your child likes and they’ll try to accommodate as best they can - certainly a first in Estonia. There’s even a few treats available for those who like to dine with their dog, we’re impressed.QRohuneeme tee 57b, Pringi, tel. (+372) 557 50 25, [email protected], www.rootsu.ee. Open 12:00 22:00. €€. T6B

wine shop Where to eat Please refer to the Restaurants section for the eplanation of the symbols. Café Lavendel This stylish café’s emphasis is on fresh, local food - but what really impressed us were their delicious home-made cakes and pastries. The prices were also quite reasonable and they offer up live music on Saturday nights for those that prefer to eat their dinner with a song.QSõpruse tee 9, Haabneeme, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 58 62 85 75, [email protected], www.spahotellavendel.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. €€. iTBi SW

Kruger’s Wineshop With over 500 quality wines in stock and friendly prices, Kruger’s is one of the best spots to pick up a fine bottle, or two, while in Viimsi - or Estonia for that matter. You’re welcome to visit their shop for that personal touch where they can recommend wine and food pairings, or make a convenient purchase online. A mixed case of Bordeauxs start at €38 - kind of hard to beat that.QRandvere tee 6, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 600 04 25, www.wineshop.ee. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

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RootSu’s beach bar certainly beckons you to linger

RootSu Rannabaar This little warm-weather sister of RootS Villiage Restaurant is located right at the Haabneeme beach and offers all sorts of liquid and edible delights to help make your day at the beach complete. They have an extensive cocktail list, a wide selection of food, cold Champagne, wines and even non-alcoholic beverages as well - all of course served with a friendly smile.QKesk tee 20, Haabneeme, tel. (+372) 56 50 51 51, [email protected], www.rootsu.ee. Open 12:00 01.00 from mid-May through mid-September when the weather is nice. €€. B Villa Mary Restoran & Klubi Fine dining, a beautiful interior and some great views of the sea are all features of this premier multi-faceted eatery located near the end of the Viimsi peninsula. The dishes are all immaculately prepared by some top chefs and you’re also welcome to relax in the Hennessy cigar lounge upstairs. In case you want to make it an all-night affair they even have some comfortable rooms available in the sprawling villa but naturally they should be booked in advance.QRohuneeme tee 103, Püünsi, tel. (+372) 53 04 47 94, villa@ meritonhotels.com, www.villamary.ee. Open 12:00 . 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. €€€. ILBDX

organic spa

Peetri Pizza After a day traipsing around Viimsi, pizza is always a great idea. Part of the Estonian chain, this Peetri offers tasty pizzas for decent prices and you’re guaranteed not to walk away hungry. There are a total of 24 pizzas on offer that come in either thin-crust or pan varieties. They also have an oven pasta on the menu. Available for dine-in or takeaway.QKaluri tee 3, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 604 86 00, www. peetripizza.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. €. S V

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dental spa

Tasty temptations at RootS

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Harmoonikum The very first organic spa in Estonia - Harmoonikum offers a wide range of relaxing massages, facial, body, hand and foot treatments, a cellulite reduction program and more. The products used here have all been handprepared from ingredients either locally grown or specially sourced from top quality raw materials. A healthy eatery can also be found onsite, providing nourishment for your inner body as well.QPargi tee 8, Viimsi (Viimsi Manor), tel. (+372) 601 17 17/(+372) 53 08 11 88, info@ harmoonikum.ee, www.harmoonikum.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Lumen Dental Clinic Located in the Viimsi Tervis Spa Hotel, Lumen provides comprehensive and professional dental and aesthetic care for the whole family. With their own lab onsite, they offer quick and complete care - including the ability to create a whole new tooth the same day. Enjoy the beautiful nature of the Viimsi area while you wait, or take advantage of what the full-service spa has to offer. See website for full list of services and details.QRandvere tee 11, Haabneeme, Viimsi parish (Viimsi Tervis Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 601 18 12/(+372) 53 41 60 72, [email protected], www.lumen.ee. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Tue, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, every second Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

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Where to stay Please refer to the Restaurants section for the eplanation of the symbols. Spa Hotel Lavendel Recently renovated Lavendel’s super-modern lobby hides a nice new café and conference room. The smartly decorated rooms are fully equipped with all the amenities one could hope for and guests are invited to pamper themselves at the full-service beauty salon or check out the attached sports-centre.QSõpruse tee 9, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 603 59 00, fax (+372) 603 59 01, [email protected], www.spahotellavendel.ee. 50 rooms (singles €40 - 60, doubles €45 - 65, triples €82, family room €95). Extra bed €16, pets €24. ZHFGKW Villa Mary Nestled on the seaside just north of the city, this luxury 5-room guesthouse belongs to Meriton and offers seclusion and a level of exclusivity that’s hard to find even in the best downtown hotels. All in all, a worthy place to host a high-class event or to spoil oneself for a weekend. First-class restaurant and cigar lounge also onsite and transfers available upon request.QRohuneeme tee 103, Püünsi, tel. (+372) 53 04 47 94, villa@ meritonhotels.com, www.villamary.ee. Rooms/apartments from €124. HLKDW June - July 2014

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Active Tallinn

Active Tallinn Apart from the usual, boring sightseeing tours there are loads of other activities available in and around Tallinn. From hot air ballooning to bowling to biking, we list a plethora of hands-on activities for the more adventurous tourists to enjoy. Some activities may even result in the loss of hands, but most of those types of adventures require that you sign a waiver and naturally Tallinn In Your Pocket cannot be held liable if you do lose a limb.

Adventure & Travel Skydive Estonia (Eesti Langevarjuklubi) The only way you would get us to jump out of an air plane is if it had experienced some sort of mechanical failure and it had started a collision course with the ground. That being said, I suppose the fear factor is what makes it so exciting.Qtel. (+372) 54 54 55 44/(+372) 529 93 77, jump@ skydive.ee, www.skydive.ee. 30 minutes of instruction and tandem jump with an instructor, €229. 4 hours of instruction and instructor assisted deployment jump, €229. SPK Paintball This outfit has an onsite shooting area as well as a few offsite areas outside Tallinn, such as forests, old military bases etc. Equipment rental at their onsite facilities cost €10 and an extra €10 for 500 paint-balls. If you require an instructor that will set you back another €25. For groups of 30 or more the instructor is free of charge. After the games are done and you’ve had your ‘balls handed to you’ there’s even a grilling area where you can relax and tell tall tales about the ‘war’.QNarva mnt. 133, tel. (+372) 524 54 84/(+372) 524 78 78, [email protected], www. spk.ee. XXXL Tours Pretty much the most extreme hen and stag party organiser in Tallinn, they provide such unique activities as anger packages with kalashnikov shooting, go-karting, paintball, clay pigeon shooting, and pub crawling with a female guide... that’s right, female guide. Perhaps they even offer machine gun shooting while riding on go-karts with a female guide, you can always ask.QRohuneeme tee 61C, tel. (+372) 55 53 18 88, [email protected], www.xxxltours.com.

Culture Ceramics Studio For a truly personal souvenir of Tallinn you might want to check out this ceramics studio which offers lessons every week to those interested in such things. Lessons are between 1.5-2hrs in length and cost a mere €15 per person. It’s also possible to order private lessons for groups of up to 10 people, see website for details.QC-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 56 46 40 75, www.keraamikakoda.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. J Kalev Master’s Chamber Located in the loft above the Kalev candy shop in the Rotermanni Quarter, the Master Chamber provides guests with the opportunity to create their own marzipan figurines or decorate their own fine chocolates. What could make a better memory of your time in Tallinn than something sweet, created by your own hands - of course, whether or not it ends up being a good memory probably depends on your artistic abilities or lack there of. Workshops are available for a minimum of four guests and arrangements should be made ahead of time by phone, by e-mail or even in person. Prices vary depending on how many people are in your group. QB-4, Roseni 7 (Rotermann Courtyard), tel. (+372) 54 55 58 86/(+372) 54 52 58 29, [email protected], www. kalev.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. The Marzipan Museum Not just a museum dedicated to the sugary, moldable almond paste - it’s a great place for the kids to keep their hands busy creating their own marzipan figurines, dinosaurs and airplanes - the sky is literally the limit in terms of what they can create. For a mere €3.50 per person kids both young and young at heart can build their own sweet souvenirs.QC-3, Pikk 40, tel. (+372) 646 06 26, www. martsipan.ee/en/voolimine. Open 10:00 - 20:00. J

5 years of age is €1.50, adults €11.90 and a family ticket (2 adults plus up to 3 children) is €39. Daily and 1.5 hour admission also available.QB-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 70, [email protected], www.kalevspa.ee/veekeskus. Open 06:45 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. FCw Nõmme Adventure Park Adventure park with climbing trails for both grown-ups and kids also features water-ball rental - you know, where you climb inside the big, clear plastic ball and pretend to be Jesus? Good fun for the whole family.QKülmallika 15a (Nõmme Sports Centre), tel. (+372) 56 15 91 60, info@ nommeseikluspark.ee, www.nommeseikluspark.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Adult single ticket €17, children depending from age €5 - 13.

Karting FK Keskus Consisting of two locations, FK Keskus provides fun for the whole family. At the Paldiski maantee venue, kids who are at least 150cm and 10 years old can live out their Formula 1 fantasies on a 730m outdoor, motorised go-cart track. A playground with swings and various climbing structures is available for the smaller tykes. They also offer paintball for those who want to live out their battle fantasies. A café, sauna and grilling facilities round out the list of services offered. At their Viimsi location they operate a 300m indoor track, complete with a café, sauna and billiard table. See website for prices and detailed information. QPaldiski mnt. 229a, tel. (+372) 687 01 01/(+372) 606 70 00, [email protected], www.fkkeskus.ee. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Also at: Rohuneeme tee 1, Viimsi (indoor track), (+372) 601 45 22. Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

bowling & billiards

Family fun Kalev Spa Water Park Located right downtown, this fully-equipped indoor water park provides a whole host of wet entertainment. Besides its three water slides, it has a 50m lap pool, an upstream swimming pool, kids’ pool and play area, saunas, hot tubs and a café. For a 2.5 hour visit, the price for children up to

Kuulsaal This ultra-modern, ultra-cool, two-storey club offers the closest bowling to Old Town. Try their blacklight system for a cosmic effect. 12 lanes €12.50 - 19.80/hr. They also offer seven pool tables, including snooker and Russian billiards for €3.90 - 5.90 per hour.QB4, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 661 66 82, bowling@ kuulsaal.ee, www.kuulsaal.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

indoor playrooms Lotte Playroom Styled after the most loved Estonian children’s cartoon character, this newly opened, indoor playroom inside the Kaubamaja department store, will give parents the chance to shop until they - or their kids drop whichever comes first.QD-4, Gonsiori 2 (Tallinna Kaubamaja 4th floor), tel. (+372) 667 31 00, www. kaubamaja.ee/lastemaailm/lotte-mangutuba. Open 10:00 - 20:30. €3/hr or first hour free with same-day Kaubamaja shopping purchase. Must show your receipt. Piip ja Tuut Playhouse Certainly the most unique and special of all the playrooms we have listed, this one is located on Toompea in a historic building first mentioned in 1404. The play area is upstairs and features climbing tunnels and all sorts of nooks an crannies that kids love. All the toys are made out of wood or fabric and the emphasis here is on utilising the child’s imagination rather numbing their little minds with video games or electronic distractions. While the kids are happily playing upstairs, parents are invited to enjoy a coffee, lite-bite or a dessert in the quaint café on the first floor. A perfect scenario if you ask us.QC-1, Toom-Kooli 13, tel. (+372) 662 67 67, [email protected], www. piipjatuut.ee. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. J

Outdoor playgrounds Falgi playground QD-1, Falgi Street. TJ Hirve Park playground QD-1, Wismari Street. TJ Kadrioru Park playground QG-5, Koidula Street. Kanuti Garden playground QB-4, near Kalev Spa at Kanuti Street. TJ Tornide Square playground QB-2, Near railway station at Suurtüki Street. TJ

Zelluloosi Bowling Mmmm, the smell of shoe disinfectant, the sound of pins crashing into each other and the sight of all those bums wiggling on the lanes. This ‘friendly’ bowling club with attached sauna has lanes for €10.80 - 18/ hr.QI-5, Tartu mnt. 80b, tel. (+372) 681 08 81/(+372) 53 07 27 32, [email protected], www.zbowling. ee. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 48 Tallinn In Your Pocket

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Restaurants Active Tallinn beaches

Rolling things

Tallinn has five official beaches and a handful of others that dot the coastline. Here we have listed the top four. While we give directions how to get to all of these beaches using public transport, on a nice day it’s just as easy to take a bicycle or roller-blades using the city’s network of paths. Under each entry we also have a website listed so you can check the current conditions.

16€ Hostel bike rental Not only do they offer cheap hostel rooms but now you can also rent a bike from them for the same price as a room night - if you borrow it for the full day. Pretty steep cash deposit for the bike though, so you might need to sell some of your stash to ride their wheels.QC-4, Roseni 9, tel. (+372) 501 30 46, [email protected], www.16eur.ee/ eng/bike-rental/.

Kakumäe Beach The furthest away of the three beaches, but in Tallinn nothing is really that far, this one is probably the quietest, cleanest and due to its shallow nature, it’s great for families with small children. They also have changing cabins, a food kiosk and a play-park for the kids - and if you can wait around until 11pm, the sunset is breathtaking. To get here take bus number 21 from the Baltijaam train station and get off at the Captain Flint Pub. From there you will see signs pointing to the beach. Qwww.g4s.ee/beaches/kakumae-beach.

City Bike Tours Bicycle tours of Old Town, Pirita and Kadriorg. Customised tours are available, in addition to the daily ‘Welcome Tours’ of Tallinn. Tours leave from the City Bike office in Old Town, Uus 33. Hotel pick-up by arrangement. Tandem bikes also available for those that just can’t bare to be apart from one another. Reservations for all bikes and tours are a must during the summer.QB-3, Uus 33, tel. (+372) 511 18 19, [email protected], www.citybike.ee. Open 09:00 19:00. Welcome to Tallinn Bike Tour €16, price includes rental, equipment, tour and a refreshing drink. J

Pirita Beach By far the busiest and sexiest of all beaches in Tallinn, Pirita beach is the place to see and be seen. There’s even an unofficial nudist area at the far end (bare it all at your own risk though as you can be fined for public nudity). You can read our complete run-down on this beach in our special Pirita section. To get here Take bus No 1, 1A, 8, 34A, or 38 from the underground Viru Centre bus terminal. Get off at the Pirita stop, which is the first one after you cross the river.Qwww.g4s.ee/ beaches/pirita-beach.

Supersegway These things are kind of silly if you ask us. The odd factor aside, it could actually be a decent way to get to see Old Town - if you happen to be afraid of cobblestones or possess weak ankles and can’t outrun the pickpockets.QC-2, Viru 7, tel. (+372) 512 00 30, [email protected], www. bluesupersegway.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 1 hr/€32, they also offer guided tours for groups up to 12 people. Weight restrictions 40-120kg. J

Stroomi Beach The second most popular beach, due to its size and proximity to the centre, Stroomi has a cafeteria, toilets, volleyball nets and beach chairs for rent, as well as a huge outdoor play-park for the kids. Due to its proximity to an industrial port, its not quite as scenic as some of the others, but that doesn’t seem to bother the masses who show up here on a hot summer day. To get here take bus number 40 from the underground Viru Centre bus terminal and get off at the Supelranna stop.Qwww.g4s.ee/beaches/stroomi-beach.

50 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Water sports Kayak Tours Organising one- and two-day trips in sea kayaks to Estonian islands. A 3-hour trip to the nearby Aegna island costs €25 per person for a group of 6 and more. Website lists other tours and prices, although only in Estonian. Call or send an e-mail for more info.Qtel. (+372) 501 28 72, [email protected], www. kajakimatkad.ee. Pirita Boat Rental The Pirita River winds through the beautiful, marshy area behind the convent, creating some of the most striking scenery in Tallinn. The best way to explore this 500ha protected nature area is to take a leisurely trip down the river itself. On the riverbank, just north of the bridge, you’ll see a shack labelled Paadilaenutus, which rents out various types of boats. You can rent a rowboat, a canoe, or if you’re less confident with oars, a water bicycle (pedal boat). Looking for a more adventurous trip? They can also arrange for a speedboat journey across Tallinn Bay to the nearby Naissaare Island or a hour-long tour around the bay itself.QKloostri tee 6a (next to Pirita bridge), tel. (+372) 621 21 75, bellmarine.ee/teenus/paadilaenutus. Open 10:00 - 22:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

SYMBOL key T Child-friendly

J Old Town location

6 Pets allowed

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking area

S Take-away

V Home delivery

L Free parking

N Payment in cash only

W Wifi

In Tallinn it seems they grant a new restaurant licence every week and sometimes we do miss one, but we’ve tried our best to have an accurate list by print time. Although changing for the better, be aware that in many cases you’ll have to seat yourself, so don’t wait around like a dummy - just grab an available seat and you’ll eventually be brought a menu. In pubs, you’ll likely need to order and pay at the bar. Service in the centre is nearly always English-speaking and foreign-language menus are the rule - although, the words may not always be spelled correctly. VAT (20%) is always included and a gratuity should never be added to the bill.

African African Kitchen This highly funky African-themed establishment is the place to go for affordable, exotic meals and a trendy, lounge-like atmosphere. Traditional and contemporary cuisine from the continent is served in hip, colourful surroundings. Lounge tables in the main room are a bit low, so reserve a spot in the cosier ‘Cave Room’ for more comfortable dining. Service slows considerably when crowded.QB-3, Uus 32/34, tel. (+372) 644 25 55, [email protected], www.africankitchen. ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PJ6DXSW

latvian Lido What is a Latvian restaurant anyway? Lido is an institution in Latvia and practically every Estonian and their mother has been to at least one of the locations in Riga at least once. Now you too can see what all the fuss is about. The market concept is pretty simple and the food quite hearty. Just grab a tray, and point at what you want, the prices are all listed and the helpings are rather large. You certainly won’t leave Lido hungry.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 609 33 64, [email protected], www.lido.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00. €. TUSW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

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Restaurants gastropub

price guide Based on the average price of a main course. €

Up to 7 euros

€€€ 14 - 19 euros

€€

8 - 13 euros

€€€€ Over 20 euros

the wings had just the right amount of bite.QD-2, SuurKarja 13, tel. (+372) 680 76 17, [email protected]. Open , Mon, Tue 11:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 07:00, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. €€. JXW Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina Beer ads, steer horns, cactus and rowdy conversation this bar screams ‘Texas’ so loud you might think you’ve walked into one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the ambience is more rock and blues than twangy two-step. The long menu is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (Cadillac nachos, quesadillas, etc) with other things like hot wings, Texas potato salad and a decent selection of vegetarian items thrown in. Not all dishes are as authentic as the Alamo, but enough are to make this a decent destination for homesick Yanks.QB-3, Pikk 43, tel. (+372) 631 17 55, [email protected], www.texas. ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. J6IEBSW

American First it was Italian, then sushi, then Italian again - now it seems that American is the new eatery trend in Tallinn with new locales popping up everywhere. Not that we mind, we just hope someone nails the proper ‘Yankee’ food experience down completely. Chicago 1933 Kind of an upscale American restaurant, this stylish eatery certainly has more than a few American favourites on the menu and the atmosphere reminds of an old-fashioned ‘Speakeasy’. The burger, one of the best in the city, and steak we ate here were certainly top-notch and the service is also a cut-above the norm for Tallinn. Great smoking lounge upstairs as well.QC-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66, [email protected], www.chicago.ee. Open , Mon, Tue 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€€. PJUEi BXSW Route 13 Grill This American-style restaurant/night-spot is certainly aiming to become the best eatery in its class in Tallinn. We’ve actually had some good conversations with the owners and they’re quite committed to getting everything just right in order to make this the best ‘Americanstyle’ locale in Estonia. From what we’ve experienced so far, ‘Route 13’ just might become a lucky number. We quite enjoyed their burger last time we stopped by and 52 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Väike Resto This ‘bite-sized’ eatery on Town Hall Square is pretty much a dressed-up burger place. Naturally they offer side-dishes, although these and the sauces will cost you extra - ketchup and mustard are however free. The decent-size burgers, albeit tasty, were a little on the dry side - so you’ll need one of those sauces. Prices were also reasonable, but the entire meal can start to add up rather quickly if you choose a side and special sauce.QC2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 640 03 57, [email protected], www.r18.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. JBS

Argentinian Argentiina Certainly worth the brief walk from Old Town, this well-established, popular and slightly swank restaurant where South American cooks grill slabs of steak and fish right within view of one of the dining areas is certainly a ‘cut above’ many other eateries in town. From the service to the kitchen staff, one gets the impression that everyone working here truly puts a lot of pride into what they do and it definitely shows in the end result. Prices are decent especially given the overall experience. We quite enjoyed our grilled rib-eye steak and home-made jalapeno poppers with a twist.QH-3, Pärnu mnt. 37, tel. (+372) 660 51 77, info@argentiina. ee, www.argentiina.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. P6BXSW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Clayhills Gastropub The first of its kind in Estonia, Clayhills Gastropub has raised the bar high. With executive chef Argo Ots at the kitchen’s helm, the fresh cuisine is more along the lines of a Michelin Star restaurant than that of a pub. Fortunately you won’t have to pay Michelin level prices. The rich interior is heavily garnished with leather and the cellar is well stocked with quality beers and wines alike. The service also comes with a smile and the atmosphere is brimming with warmth. Situated in the heart of Old Town, Clayhills has a large outdoor terrace in the warmer months!QC-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641 93 12, [email protected], www.clayhills.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €€. J6EBW

Asian Asian Wok & Grill Other than the fact that it’s pretty tasty food for a decent price, there’s one more bonus - you can eat as much as you want for that same price! There are a couple of ways to get your food here. The first way is to load your plate full of hot and ready Asian cuisine, take it back to your table and dig in. The second option is to fill your plate full of meats and vegetables, choose a sauce and have the smiling chef ‘wok’ it or ‘grill’ it up for you. Starters, sushi, soups, salad and a dessert are also included - in case you were worried. Drinks cost extra and there’s also an à la carte menu for those with less imagination.QH-3, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 628 81 51, hotel@ meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. (Buffet €28) €€€. UW

Restaurants

Bollywood This slash-Indian-Asian place in Tallinn is actually quite decent and usually fills up in the evening hours. The name and décor are decidedly Indian but they offer a plethora of Chinese and Thai samplings for those that prefer crispy or coco-nutty over chutney. As is the norm for the genre, mains come with rice and can usually feed two - as long as an appetiser has been ordered.QB-2, Pikk 31, tel. (+372) 644 24 45, [email protected], www.bollywood.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. €€. PTJ6VXSW Chedi Call it a swank, upscale restaurant with an Asian menu, or an Asian restaurant done up to the nines. In either case, what you’ll get at Chedi is a sleek, novel dining experience that fuses East Asian and Western trends. This is where Thai Pike Perch meets lamb chop in chocolate sauce, and the quality is always top-notch. The only hiccup here is the service, which can at times be sluggish.QB-3, Sulevimägi 1, tel. (+372) 646 16 76, [email protected], www.chedi.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€€€. JBS facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

ANNO 1996

MEAT LOVER’S

PARADISE!

Pärnu mnt. 37, Tallinn | 6 605 177 | argentiina.ee

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Restaurants Flavours of Estonia Traditional Estonian cuisine is, for the most part, a mix of whatever peasants could scratch together on the farm and whatever fishermen hauled in from the Baltic. You may notice a heavy Germanic influence – not surprising given the region’s cultural history. Taverns catering to local tastes will typically offer plates of pork schnitzel with heavy doses of potatoes or cabbage on the side. For those in search of something more exotic and uniquely Estonian though, we’ve put together this handy list of what to try and buy when you’re out dining or shopping. Terviseks! Tallinna kilud Spiced Tallinn sprats, sold in decorative tins, have been a mainstay souvenir of the city since as far back as the 1920s. These silvery little fish often appear on kilu võilevad, snack-sized, dark bread sandwiches made with butter, onion and dill. Look for them in the salad and pastry counter of your nearest café. Marineeritud angerjas Marinated eel, served cold, is a true Estonian favourite. Sometimes it comes smoked (suitsutatud) rather than marinated, but either way, don’t be surprised to find it cut into small chunks and ready to spoon out at your hotel’s breakfast buffet. It’s also commonly served as part of a sour cream and vegetable salad. Sült Some foreigners are understandably too squeamish to try sült, a jellied meat dish made from boiled pork and pork bones. Still, locals love it, especially served cold with a spot of mustard on the side. It’s often made in large batches, so many Estonian families have stories of jars and jars of solidifying all over the house. Verivorst Estonia’s famous blood sausage is not nearly as macabre as it sounds and biting into it won’t leave you looking like an extra in a zombie film. It’s heavy on the barley and similar to what the English diplomatically call ‘black pudding’ due to its colour. You probably won’t see it on menus outside of November and December though, since it’s considered a traditional Christmas dish. It’s usually served with a tangy, red berry jam. 54 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Restaurants Küüslauguleivad The ultimate Estonian beer/ bar snack is the local take on garlic bread. In this case, the bread in question is the real Estonian black rye bread, must leib, itself a must-try. The bread – either full slices, strips or cubes – is toasted to crunchiness and buttered. Then massive quantities of the pungent stuff is applied. Some pubs serve the garlic on the side, leaving the customer the option to rub it on and thereby regulate the strength. suitsujuustu pats Resembling a braided rope or a peasant girl’s hair (albeit one who has been standing a little too close to the village bonfire), Estonian smoked string cheese is a surprisingly addictive snack. It’s harder and chewier than its counterparts in other countries, so it may take getting used to. Find it in the supermarket. Kama This oh-so-Estonian dessert is near and dear to the hearts of locals and really has no equivalent in most other traditions. Basically it’s a mixture of ground grains - rye, oat, barley, and pea flour - blended together with sour milk (keefir) to make a sweet, cold porridge. Just try it. If it’s not on your restaurant’s dessert menu, you can pick up the dried mixture at a food shop and make it at home. Kohuke Another much loved treat that’s hard to find outside the country is kohuke, which roughly translates to ‘little curd’. It’s essentially a bitesized chunk of cold, sweet curd covered in a candy glaze, most reminiscent of cheesecake. Various flavours are available but the traditional one is the chocolate-covered vanilla one. Kohuke is sold in individually wrapped, foil packages and can be found in the refrigerated dairy section of food shops. Kali Referred to as ‘the Estonian Coca-Cola’, Kali is a kind of low-alcoholic (up to 0.5%), fermented young beer. It’s sweet and has a very light fizz to it, making it a popular refreshment for generations of Estonian kids. Though it may look like root beer, it’s definitely not. Try it for yourself and test your Estonianness! tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Caucasian Hearty cuisine from Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan became popular here during Soviet times and continues to leave its mark on the local culinary scene. Georgian Tavern Tbilisi Having opened their first eatery in Tartu and seeing that people quite enjoyed what they had to offer, they decided to give Old Town Tallinn a real taste of Georgia as well. The staff of this family restaurant are very welcoming, as is the atmosphere. Expect freshly prepared dishes the way they do back home. You’ll find all the Georgian classics such as Hinkali (meat dumplings), grilled Sashlik (meat skewers) and our favourite, Hatchapuri (melted cheese filled flatbread) among many others. All dishes are prepared fresh so be prepared to wait a little for your food to arrive. Our only warning is that with all the mouth-watering offers on the menu, many including photos, you’ll be tempted to bite off more than you can chew. So bring friends, order a few dishes and share them.QD-2, Rüütli 18, tel. (+372) 742 28 28, [email protected], www. tbilisi.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. J6IBSW

The restaurant offers an authentic Estonian cuisine and is located in the exquisitely restored stonevaulted hall in Meriton Old Town Garden hotel. Pikk 29/ Lai 24, Tallinn

Chinese If you’re a big Chinese food fan, unfortunately, Tallinn is not one of the better places in the Northern Hemisphere to indulge in your fix. There are however a couple of ‘decent’ places, sadly, none of them are that centrally located. Cha Dao A short hop from Old Town, near the Fat Margaret tower, Cha Dao is certainly Tallinn’s most exclusive Chinese restaurant. The interior is stylish, the cuisine is excellent and you can find dishes here that you won’t be able to find anywhere else in Estonia. That being said, it’s a little pricey if you just have a hankering for sweet and sour pork at lunch. Huge selection of teas and surprisingly, an organic Chinese beer.QG-3, Suur-Patarei 2, tel. (+372) 642 00 03, [email protected], www.chadao.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. China Inn Located smack dab in the middle of Viru street, this 100% Chinese cellar-restaurant has all the makings of a tourist trap, and has certainly been sliding in that direction as of late. The food was pretty decent, the last time we ate here - but some of the dishes are a little on the expensive side and depending on the time of day, the freshness of your meal may be questionable.QC-3, Viru 9, tel. (+372) 648 45 85, www.chinainn.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. JBS Golden Dragon A long-time favourite among Old Town’s local diners, this little cellar restaurant’s food quality has suffered mixed reviews as of late. However, we quite liked it the last time we facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

www.meritonhotels.com/eng

were here so we’ll let you be the judge. The portion size of the spring rolls continue to be big enough to feed you and 1.3 billion of your closest friends. Be warned though that the service, while always friendly, can slow to a crawl when things get busy. Stop by for the economical weekday lunch special. They now offer a children’s menu as well. QB-2/3, Pikk 37, tel. (+372) 631 35 06, golden.dragon@ mail.ee, www.goldendragon.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TJIVBS

garlic Balthasar Beautifully-restored dining rooms in this historic building overlooking Town Hall Square provides Balthasar the perfect aristocratic setting for its refined establishment. It was here that Balthasar Russow wrote the famous ‘Livonian Chronicles’. The speciality of the house is garlic, and everything that can be made with it. The number of bulbs next to each menu item indicates the level of garlic in the dish. Not all dishes are heavily garlic-laden though, but a quick look at the dessert menu reveals... garlic ice cream’? Reservations are recommended.QC-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 627 64 00, balthasar@ balthasar.ee, www.balthasar.ee. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€. JEBW

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Restaurants Estonian Restaurants It used to be that if you walked into an Estonian restaurant in Tallinn, you could expect to find a lot of heavy pork dishes on the menu as well as the traditional fare of herring and potatoes, sauerkraut etc. These days, however, there are two classes of ‘Estonian’ restaurants - new Estonian cuisine and traditional. The new cuisine is usually a fusion of traditional and international cuisines along with the chef’s own vision of what Estonian cuisine should be. These eateries use primarily fresh, local and often organic ingredients wherever possible. Both have their own merits - the traditional cuisine will leave your belly warm and full and the new will usually be more of a feast for your senses.

Nouveau Estonian Kaerajaan Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an Estonian-themed restaurant with a modern twist. It consists of a café on the main floor and a slightly more formal restaurant in the top floor. You won’t find any of the traditional, national dishes on the menu, however you will be pleased to discover many Estonian ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. Check out the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experience.QC-2, Raekoja plats 17, tel. (+372) 615 54 00, [email protected], www.kaerajaan.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. JBW

Leib Resto ja Aed Another one of our new favourites, Leib - which means bread in Estonian, has hit the mark on each of the several occasions we’ve visited. The service has been stellar, the fresh and interesting cuisine has certainly pleased the palate and the atmosphere - is refreshing, for lack of a better term. One of the owners is always on site and they bend over backwards to make sure your experience is mention-worthy. Fantastic home-made bread and prices that won’t leave you broke. Especially great is the lovely outdoor dining and children’s sandbox play-area during the warmer months.QB-3, Uus 31, tel. (+372) 611 90 26, info@ leibresto.ee, www.leibresto.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TJIBW Mekk For modern Estonian cuisine done right, make sure to pay a visit to the Savoy Boutique hotel’s culinary gem that is Mekk. Although the portions are somewhat dietary, the fare is fresh, prepared imaginatively and the meals come complete with home-made artisan bread. The service was pleasantly welcoming, as were the prices for the overall experience. We highly recommend the to-die-for desserts, which in our opinion belong under glass in an art gallery.QD-2/3, SuurKarja 17/19, tel. (+372) 680 66 88, [email protected], www.mekk.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. TJ6UBSW

24.00

www.kuldnenotsu.ee 56 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

NEH What began as a seasonal establishment on the island of Muhu during the summer months, proved so popular among Estonians that they decided to expand and set up shop in Tallinn as well. A self-described ‘retreat for foodies’ - Neh, which kind of sounds like a sneeze if you try to say it three times fast, truly is such a culinary experience that locals reserve far in advance just to get a table here. Regardless of when you plan on checking it out - reservations are indeed recommended.QG-3, Lootsi 4, tel. (+372) 602 22 22, [email protected], www.neh.ee. Open 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. PUL

Traditional Estonian Eesti Söögituba Joining the long list of gastronomic possibilities to be had at the Meriton hotel chain - the Estonian Dining Room offers its guests the possibility to sample some local cuisine for a reasonable price. Whether it be blood sausage, Baltic herring, kama, kali or some interesting porridges - you’ll find it here. Cosy atmosphere too. QA-3, Pikk 29 (in Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 03, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PJ6BW

Restaurants

Kuldse Notsu KÕrts Heaven for pork-lovers, at the ‘Golden Piglet Inn’ the cooks even put bacon in the bread! This country-style Estonian restaurant undeniably caters to the tourist crowd, but we really liked the bright, folk-art motif. The menu is much more interesting than the heavy food however, offering such dishes as the ‘Estonian sausage feast for two’… get your minds out of the gutter ladies, or the ever popular ‘crisp pork knuckle with sauerkraut.’ Despite the carnivorous theme, a selection of vegetarian dishes are available for those herbivores out there.QC-2, Dunkri 8, tel. (+372) 628 65 67, knk@schlossle-hotels. com, www.kuldnenotsu.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. J6IBSW Vanaema Juures True to its name, Grandma’s Place treats its guests to a warm welcome and a cosy dining room filled with antiques. Take heart that there’s no sign of the big, bad wolf here, though wild boar is occasionally on the menu. Elk roast is a regular feature and the lamb with bleu cheese comes highly recommended. Reservations are a good idea for Friday and Saturday evenings.QC-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372) 626 90 80, [email protected], www.vonkrahl.ee/vanaemajuures/. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TJBS

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KARJA QUARTER

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Suur-Karja 20 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 10:00 - 18:00, SUN 10:00 - 16:00

Harju 5 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT, SUN 10:00 - 17:00

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Väike-Karja 7 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 18:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

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Valli 4 MON - FRI 10:00 - 20:00, SAT 10:00 - 19.00, SUN 11:00 - 17:00

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Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors

Area is located in sections C/D-2/3 on the Old Town map. Turn to page 105 for the full list of shops and details.

Pärnu mnt.10/Suur-Karja 23 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

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Pärnu mnt.12 MON - SAT 10:00 - 19:00, SUN 10:00 - 16:00

Väike-Karja 12 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

Suur-Karja 2 MON - FRI 11:00 - 18:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 12:00 - 16:00

Suur-Karja 14 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 10:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

Restaurants

Restaurants Quick biTe suBway Subway - It only took 20+ years, but Subway has finally landed in Estonia. This healthier fast food alternative to your typical ‘burgers and fries’ joint, is certainly a welcome addition to the scene. You choose the type of bun-bread you want, toasted or not, you choose the style of sub and lastly you get to pick the toppings and sauces. It’s as simple as that. This location happens to be the most stylish Subway we’ve ever eaten at and practically every table has a place to plug in your laptop or tablet. In terms of the overall experience it comes pretty close to what you’ll find in North America. It’s also the only place in Estonia to sell Doritos - score!QD-4, estonia pst. 7, tel. (+372) 607 00 27, www.subway.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, sat 10:00 - 04:00, sun 10:00 - 23:00. Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 5 (Foorum Centre). Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, sat 10:00 - 04:00, sun 10:00 - 23:00. €. P6VSW

french

germAn

Bonaparte You’ll be hard pressed to find a more elegant locale for French cuisine. Set in an amazingly restored 17th-century merchant’s house, Bonaparte is a high-class affair all the way, from the complimentary elk carpaccio to the wine and cheese cellar. The portions seem small though - maybe it was the huge plates.Qb-3, pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44, [email protected], www.bonaparte. ee. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, sun. €€€€. JSW

Baieri kelder All the classic beer-hall elements are presented in the Hotel St. Barbara’s cellar restaurant. It’s got the vaulted stone ceilings, the heavy wooden tables and the happy, piped-in beer-hall music. The menu offers things like Bavarian hunter sausages and ‘Wiener Schnitzel’ but is slowly shifting towards not-so-heavy cuisine items. We’ll revisit them when their new menu has been completed - but we hear the schnitzel and sausage will still be available.Qe-2, roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00 45, [email protected], www. baierikelder.ee/en. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 - 24:00, sun 14:00 - 23:00. €€. iTILi BXSW

c’est la vie One of the most impressive restaurants we’ve had the pleasure of reviewing comes in the form of this snazzy cellar venue. From the black and gold 1920’s motif to the friendly service and the heated floors, C’est La Vie gets top marks. The internationally infused menu contains just the right amount of Frenchness and the artfully prepared food is more than magnifique. We think it’s the perfect spot for a romantic dinner or just a classy start to any evening out.QC-2, suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48, info@ cestlavie.ee, www.cestlavie.ee. Open 13:00 - 24:00. €€. PJEBSW

www.inyourpocket.com 60 Tallinn In Your Pocket

schnitzel haus Accordion-heavy pop hits, wooden beer hall tables and vaulted ceilings, come together to form this den of schnitzel. The menu consists mainly of... well schnitzel and they will certainly have you yodelling. Just in case you’re not in the mood for a pounded-flat, breaded and fried meal, they’ve also got a few other meaty mains to choose from and a ‘Radler’ on the drink menu was also a plus.QD-2, rüütli 28/30, tel. (+372) 645 00 59, schnitzelhaus@schnitzelhaus. ee, www.schnitzelhaus.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TJ6ISW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

terrass Another popular alternative to the big American fast food chain that shall remain nameless, this kebab place is actually owned by a native of the former Byzantine empire. There’s a wide selection of meaty dishes and pizzas available but our favourite is the Döner kebab on a pita. You can get any of the items to go or enjoy them on the rooftop patio, weather permitting.QD-4, Vana-Viru 10, tel. (+372) 644 45 99. Open 10:00 - 24:00. JBXS

greek artemis taverna This longtime, authentic Greek establishment may have moved from their former location but the quality and experience certainly hasn’t changed. Owned by two Greek brothers, one of them is always onsite to ensure your dining is delightful. They’ve pretty much got everything covered from the home-made pitas, the freshly prepared tzatziki and truly tasty grilled meats. A good selection of vegetarian items are also available for those that lean in that direction. QD-2, Harju 7, tel. (+372) 644 11 14, info@ artemis.ee, www.artemis.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 - 24:00, sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€€. JBS syrtaki taverna One of the very few eating establishments located on Toompea, this little Greek Tavern serves up hearty, meat and onion-laden dishes even Zorba could appreciate. Although we’ve had better, expect to find a plethora of Greek favourites prepared according to traditional recipes. Be warned though that portions here are rather large and the meals meant for two could almost feed an army.QC-1, piiskopi 1, tel. (+372) 644 60 76, [email protected], www. syrtaki.ee/tavern. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, sat 10:00 23:00, sun 10:00 - 19:00. €€€. JIS facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

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chakra If there’s one thing you should know about Chakra, it’s that the people who envisioned it have a long and successful history bringing innovation and quality to the local dining scene. The atmosphere comes complete with authentic, often naughty, knick-knacks from India. The food is prepared with care, using top-notch ingredients and recipes, some of which only the best chefs from the home country can pull off. In short, we think that it probably won’t be the last time we’ll dine here.Qb-3, bremeni käik 1, tel. (+372) 641 26 15, [email protected], www.chakra.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. JBSW elevant This is an exceptional Old Town alternative to medieval theme restaurants. Beautiful décor from the entry foyer’s antique wrought iron staircase to the sparse earthy sheik furnishings make it a place to linger over your meal. The sophisticated East meets West style also extends to the menu, offering a wide selection of innovative, carefully prepared Indian and fusion dishes. Adventurous diners should pay particular attention to the meat selection.QC2/3, Vene 5, tel. (+372) 631 31 32, [email protected], www.elevant.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TJS

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new vegan restoran v Sure, V fills a niche, but people don’t come here just because it’s vegan, they come because it’s good. We found the service helpful, the medieval-meets-rustic décor charming and the prices friendly, especially for Old Town. It was the food itself we liked the best though, with inventive dishes like chickpea burgers and chilli sin carne that were surprisingly filling. Small and popular, so book a table in advance.Qrataskaevu 12, tel. (+372) 626 90 87, [email protected], www.veganrestoran.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 - 24:00. €. J6BSW spice Looking for friendly service in Tallinn? It actually does exist at Spice, where they serve up a smile alongside fresh, flavourful and spicy Indian cuisine. If you can’t handle the heat, you’ll also find a decent selection of ‘coco-nutty’ Thai dishes, a handful of European and some interesting vegetarian offerings. We hear that all the chefs here hail from India, so you’re in for a real treat. They also serve breakfast until 12:00.QC-2, Mündi 4 / pikk 14, tel. (+372) 644 18 18, [email protected], www.spicerestoran.ee. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€. JBSW

Thaiana Massage Salon is a small and exclusive salon for customers who value privacy and quality. Our cozy salon offers you a chance to enjoy genuine Thai massage given by professional massage therapists from Thailand and Estonia. We welcome you every day of the week, booking in advance is recommended.

cru Cru offers up just the same quality and service that you would expect from Ribe and Platz, who also belong to the same group of eateries. The interior is stylish, the cuisine creative and the staff are ready to serve you. Portions tend to be a little smaller than we personally would like, but perhaps the extra calories aren’t needed anyway. We did however compensate by ordering one of their excellent desserts.QC3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 614 00 85, [email protected], www. crurestoran.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PJBW d.o.m This restaurant with great ‘upscale’ ambiance has a level of quality far above many of the other restaurants on the ‘Square’. Set in a historic building, the style is both excellent, yet cosy enough not to make one feel uncomfortable. The menu is decidedly international, with French leanings and some creative Asian-fusion items to choose from as well. Perhaps what we found most impressive was that the proprietors and the head-chef have a true passion for great food. The rib-eye steak was one of the best we’ve ever had in Tallinn and the price was well under that of similar establishments. A great wine list rounds out the experience - not to mention the fabulous desserts.QC-2, Kinga 1, tel. (+372) 644 07 07/(+372) 58 87 10 03, info@ dom-restaurant.ee, www.dom-restaurant.ee. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€€. PJ6BSW

Modern European cuisine

new kaks kokka Kaks Kokka (Two Chefs) is basically the little brother of restaurant Ö and in fact, even shares a kitchen with the upscale eatery. With two young and energetic chefs at the helm, this café is in a constant state of flux - always changing and the culinary results are often surprising. The ingredients are always fresh and often locally sourced - depending on availability. Stylish spot for a meal or simply a cocktail with friends.Qb-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61 51, [email protected], www. kakskokka.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 24:00, sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€€. P6BW karl friedrich This restaurant overlooking Raekoja Plats serves up all manner of roated meats in its nicely carpeted, wood-panelled, second floor dining room. The food here is rather decent, though the prices seem to have the free-spending tourist in mind. During the warmer months you’ll find a scaled down menu out on the terrace.QC-2, raekoja plats 5, tel. (+372) 58 54 25 25. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€€. TJIB

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Restaurants rataskaevu 16 The service, quality and cosy atmosphere here make it worth coming back to. The cuisine is fresh, imaginative and their home-made artisan bread is in a word - delicious. Personally we have a few other spots in and around Old Town that we prefer, however, they do hold the ‘number one’ spot on ‘Tripadvisor’ and have a prime location just opposite the ‘Cat’s Well’. All-in-all a decent spot for a meal or for a romantic lite-bite and a nice glass of wine.QC-2, rataskaevu 16, tel. (+372) 642 40 25, rataskaevu16@ gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. J6BSW

— Nordic cuisine and wine bar Mere pst 6E Tallinn Phone (372) 56 992 300 www.sfaar.ee

manna la roosa Certainly the most interesting restaurant in Old Town, Manna La Roosa is housed in a historical apothecary and even the artworks and antique furniture is on the menu. With a Michelin starred chef as the creative force behind the international cuisine and a wacky artist in charge of the ‘über-kitsch’ interior decorating - La Roosa literally brings a lot to the table. Needless to say, drinking or dining here is quite an adventure for pretty much all of your senses. The main menu is only on offer after 6pm though, however, their daily lunch offerings are quite decent, both in the taste and price category.QC-4, Vana-Viru 15, tel. (+372) 620 02 49, [email protected], www. mannalaroosa.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, sat 12:00 02:00. Closed sun. €€€. J6 new pegasus Pegasus is back! This stylish and trendy, multi-level restaurant has returned to its former home and generally, people have been pretty pleased with their experience here. We found the service to be top-notch,the cuisine fresh and creatively prepared and the atmosphere quite chic. We did think the portion sizes were perhaps a little on the light size, but this gives one a good excuse to sample a few of their offerings.QC-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 662 30 13, [email protected], www.restoranpegasus.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. PJ6BSW 64 Tallinn In Your Pocket

schlössle summer garden terrace During the summer months, this romantic courtyard terrace is a delightful spot to relax, enjoy cold drinks, wonderfully prepared international cuisine, light summer bites and some decadent desserts. The service is attentive and the ambiance is especially great in the evening with live music performances to set the mood.QC-3, pühavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 00, www.schloesslehotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. JEB senso With loads more character and cutting-edge décor than your typical hotel restaurant, the stylish Senso pulls in a good number of people from around town. The huge range of cuisine on offer includes sandwiches, burgers, pastas, pizzas and grilled items, all served with a professional (but not over-starched) manner. They’ve also got a pretty decent menu for kids.QH-4, Liivalaia 33, tel. (+372) 631 58 70, [email protected], www.restoransenso.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 - 23:30. €€€. TULSW sfäär In terms of décor, this eatery/fashion and wine shop is kind of a cross between an old Soviet-era cafeteria and a stylishly retro second living room. The ‘New Estonian’ cuisine with Italian leanings and the artisan breads certainly had us impressed, as did the complimentary (before 4pm) cucumber and citrus infused pitchers of water. We’ve already been back for seconds. Breakfast on offer from 8am until 11am Mondays through Friday.QC-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 56 99 22 00, [email protected], www.sfaar.ee. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, sat 10:00 - 24:00, sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€. TLW turg The name in Estonian means ‘market’ and that’s exactly what this theatricaly-decorated cellar restaurant looks like inside - a classic, outdoor market square, complete with overhanging eves, a tree, chirping birds and some faux produce. That doesn’t mean you can haggle over menu prices though. The food on offer tends towards the Eastern European with a few Italian pizzas thrown in for good measure. For the frugal try the lunch buffet on offer Mon to Fri between 11:30 and 15:00.QC-2, Mündi 3, tel. (+372) 641 24 56, [email protected], www.turg.ee. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €€€. PJBS tallinn.inyourpocket.com

iTAliAn Due, perhaps in part, to the influx of Italian men who have seemingly migrated to Tallinn because of the rather endless supply of long-legged blondes, the city has a plethora eateries in this category. We’re not complaining though, both the food and the blondes are bella. new al Bastione This stylish yet cosy pizzeria/grill restaurant features some quality food, excellent pizzas and a great terrace as well as an excellent courtyard (with live music on weekends) during the warmer months. The chefs are Italian and the ingredients are either Italian or come fresh locally. Great selection of wines and friendly service make this a decent spot for a meal or drink.QC-3, Viru 23, tel. (+372) 658 12 38, info@albastione. ee, www.albastione.ee. Open 08:00 - 24:00. JBS Basiilik pizza & pasta Truly an unexpected find. Though not quite rivalling the best Italian cuisine in town, for a restaurant that’s in a giant cinema house, Basiilik is surprisingly high-quality. Soups, pastas and other mains are served by friendly staff in a nicer-than-average dining room. Crowds ebb and flow according to the film schedule and their all-you-can-eat, pizza and soup buffet times, which run Mon-Fri 11:3015:00.Qg-4, Hobujaama 5, in Coca-Cola plaza, tel. (+372) 56 50 99 91, [email protected], www.basiilik.ee. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€. SW

Bocca A smart, slick establishment where you’d expect to run into super-chic members of Tallinn’s A-list, or maybe a supermodel or two. Bocca delivers formal, professional service and an inventive array of pastas and filletos (fillets), all under the watchful eye of award-winning chef Nicolo Tanda. The attached loungy bar is a swank place for a post meal cognac. Make reservations on weekends. Qb-3, Olevimägi 9, tel. (+372) 611 72 90, bocca@bocca. ee, www.bocca.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 24:00, sun 13.00 - 22:00. €€€€. J6S controvento Decorated in a cosy combination of medieval Estonian and rustic Italian, this stylish eatery has been a favourite of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and beef dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian wine. It’s featured in every tourist guidebook, so be sure to make reservations.QC-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. (+372) 644 04 70, [email protected], www.controvento.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:45. €€€. JIBSW gelsomino restaurant & pizzeria This Old Town offshoot of a pricey Italian restaurant, which is not quite so centrally located, is actually an upscale eatery, pizzeria, delicatessen and karaoke bar. All that’s missing is a strip-club, night-club and souvenir shop. The different locales each have their own separate entrances and although the restaurant prices are a little on the high-

SUMMER GARDEN TERRACE with LIVE MUSIC In the heart of Old Town Pühavaimu 13/15, Tallinn Book your table: +372 699 7700

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Restaurants end, the food is well prepared and quite good. The pizzeria offers a better price point and while not cooked in a wood-oven, they do use a traditional pizza oven that gives their ‘pies’ an authentic flavour.QC-2, Lai 2, tel. (+372) 601 22 77, [email protected], www.sibio.ee. Open 11:00 23:00. €€€. PJBSW Gladiatori - Sapori di Roma This quirky little lounge/café is actually an authentic Italian place and according to some, even has the best Italianstyle pizza in town. Although we think that’s a pretty bold statement to make and certainly debatable, the pizza is in fact delicious. They also offer a wide variety of cold and hot cuisine, as well as a pretty decent selection of beverages from the ‘old country’. Live music some nights as well.QC2, Rataskaevu 22, tel. (+372) 55 64 66 19. Open 10:00 - 02:00. €€. JEBSW La Bottega Dreamt up by the creative minds who brought you the likes of Bocca, Ö, Chedi and a host of other stylish eateries, the Bottega is certainly just as ‘sparkling’. In fact, this restaurant is styled just like an upscale Italian ‘shop’ with shelves of wine and other delicacies stacked all the way to the very high ceiling. The cuisine is equally fresh and the service was not disappointing.QC-3, Vene 4, tel. (+372) 627 77 33, info@ labottega.ee, www.labottega.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€€. J6S Pulcinella Certainly one of the few actual delights we’ve had the pleasure of reviewing as of late, this very authentic, Neapolitan cellar-restaurant pulls all the stops to give you the complete experience. From the native chefs and owner to the sprawling miniature scene complete with running water, we quite enjoyed the ambiance. The cuisine was also delightful and our pizza one of the best we’ve had in Tallinn. There are so many layers to explore at Pulcinella and we look forward to going back to discover them all.QC-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 56 22 96 91, [email protected], www.pulcinella.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PJBSW Vapiano Vapiano is a European chain of self-service, market concept restaurants where the tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. When you arrive at the door you’re greeted and given a plastic card, then proceed to the area of your choice to place your order (pasta, salad/ antipasti or pizza) and the items are charged to the card. The majority of mouth-watering food items and fresh, that’s right - fresh, pastas are dispatched quite quickly, the pizza doesn’t take too long either, but you’ll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks when your pie is piping hot. The prices are delightfully affordable and the food - bella!QB-3, Hobujaama 10, tel. (+372) 682 90 10, foorum@ vapiano.ee, www.vapiano.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Also at: D/E-3/4 Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), [email protected], tel. 628 59 99. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. €. USW 66 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Japanese MoMo This popular and authentic Japanese café serves up a few delicious daily dishes, but primarily operates as a Japanese food portal where one can find over 200 different products in which to turn your own kitchen into a Japanese restaurant. They’ll even offer you advise on how to prepare various dishes.QH-5, Kunderi 29, tel. (+372) 687 11 50, [email protected], www.momoya.eu. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. €. VS Sakura Ramen & Sushi bar This reincarnation of ‘Sakura’ was overall quite satisfactory. Although we did not see anyone working here of Japanese ancestry, the chefs that currently staff it probably learned a thing or two from the former head chef from the island of Nippon. You can find all manner of sashimi, nigiri, maki as well as some hot Japanese specialities to round it all out. We quite liked everything we had and the service was efficient and came with a smile.QE-3, Sakala 20, tel. (+372) 648 44 77, info@ restoransakura.ee, www.restoransakura.ee. Open 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. €€. P6LVSW Silk Just off the square, this sleek and trendy sushi spot has made a big splash with those who are willing to spend. All varieties are available - maki sushi, baked sushi, spicy sushi, etc. Eightpiece maki dishes generally run €1.60 - 6.10, while larger assortments go from €14.70 - 31.30. Other Japanese dishes are also available in the tasteful, black-lined restaurant. You can even order sushi online and have it delivered to your hotel. QC-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 648 46 25, [email protected], www.silk.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 15, tel. 661 60 99. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. JBSW

Korean Ariran This Korean place might not be your first choice given it’s awkward location on the way to Kopli - however, it has been a local favourite for years and the dishes are prepared rather authentically. The inner décor, as would be expected, is delightfully tacky but we quite enjoyed our overall experience. QG-2, Telliskivi 35, tel. (+372) 673 39 92, [email protected], www.ariran.eu. Open 11:00 - 22:00. €. UIVS Gotsu This little cellar place is a small hike from the centre, but for an authentic Korean experience it’s pretty much your best bet in Tallinn. Besides the main eating area they also have a traditional Korean dining room where guests are asked to remove their shoes when entering. Here you’ll be able to enjoy their succulent dumplings while on your knees. Dishes tend to be on the spicy side so please make your preference known when ordering.QI-3, Pärnu mnt. 62a, tel. (+372) 614 00 22, [email protected], www.gotsu. ee. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. 6VSW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

sushi Sushi is currently quite popular in Tallinn these days and the number of places that offer the Japanese street food have sky-rocketed. Here is a list of just some of the many places around town offering sushi these days. Oishii Sushi ‘You spin me right round baby right round’... okay, we’ll stop there. This fast-food sushi place is the only one of its kind in the city and even though the chefs aren’t from Japan, or Korea, the quality was actually quite decent. The items are all laid-out on a conveyor belt or kaiten, the plates are colour-coded for price and that’s pretty much it.QH-4, Rävala pst. 5, tel. (+372) 648 14 17, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€1-3 per plate). S Silk Sushi Bar The newest addition to the Silk sushi family is located conveniently in a shopping centre. Eight-piece maki run €1.90 - 12.45, nigiri €1.90 - 3.85, and combos range €14 - 31.30.QC-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, (first floor), tel. (+372) 610 15 81, [email protected], www.silk. ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. JUSW

Restaurants

Sushi Cat The weird and wonderful world of Japanese pop culture roars at Sushi Cat, a bright, upbeat café where the décor, and even the waitresses, are done up like naughty/sexy manga characters. Settle into a pink seat and watch the bewildering music videos. It’s far more casual and affordable than its rivals - the sushi comes in variously-priced sets, ranging from ‘kitten’ to ‘lion’, all of which include green tea and miso soup. QH-3, Roosikrantsi 16, tel. (+372) 503 09 11, info@ sushicat.ee, www.sushicat.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€. PT6VBSW Sushihouse Located in the sparkling Solaris centre and the recipient of a silver spoon gastronomy award, this sushi bar presents six-piece maki ranging from €1.90 - 4.10, nigiri €0.90 - 3.40, and combos €5 - 31.40.QD-3, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 682 57 77, info@ sushihouse.ee, www.sushihouse.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Also at: B-4, Rotermanni 5 / Roseni 10, (+372) 680 16 15. Open 11:00 - 22:00. PJXS Zebra Café A little on the pricey end of the chopstick but very professionally prepared, this trendy lounge restaurant offers up eight-piece maki for €6.70 - 15, nigiri €1.90 - 4.15 and combos €19.80 - 35.45.QG-4, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372) 610 92 30, [email protected], www.zebracafe.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. VS facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

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Meaty choices

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Oliver A diligent, carved wooden waiter spends all day long on Viru tänav trying to entice people into this cellar restaurant, where meaty items like entrecote and steak dominate the menu. We’ve heard a few good reviews about the food and service as of late and the kids play area and eight-page children’s menu certainly make this a good stop for families.QC-3, Viru 3, tel. (+372) 630 78 98/(+372) 53 47 47 41, [email protected], www. oliver.ee. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. TJUIESW

Maikrahv Named for the ‘May Count’ of Tallinn’s medieval days of yore, this respectable establishment hidden under Town Hall Square hints at old-style regality all the while providing a decidedly modern and down-to-earth dining experience that won’t bust your budget. The menu is international, dominated by fillets with a couple of pastas thrown in for good measure. Delicately prepared food and professional service made the experience come off without a hitch.QC-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 42 27/(+372) 55 51 45 17, [email protected], www.maikrahv.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PJEBS

Admiral A meal at this smart restaurant built into an old steam ship, has to be one of the most unforgettable dining experiences in town. The service and atmosphere here harken back to times when a luxury sea voyage was the height of class. You’re also encouraged to check out the multitude of old photos, model ships and seafaring memorabilia that grace the interior. The impressive view of Tallinn harbour through the portholes is unquestionably 100% Estonian, but the menu here is actually more Mediterranean and prepared by a French chef. If that weren’t enough you’ll also be treated to a complimentary shot of Admiral’s pepper vodka with your meal.QG-4, Lootsi 15, tel. (+372) 662 37 77, [email protected], www.aurulaev-admiral. ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TLBXS

Revalia Grill House With its enviable location right on Old Town’s main square, Revalia is never wanting for customers. The interior décor makes it look a bit like an art shop, but there’s no mistaking the menu - tenderloin steaks and other grill items of the type that are popular around this part of Europe. QC-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 39 22, info@ restaurantrevalia.ee, www.restaurantrevalia.ee. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. €€€. TJUS Tommi Grill Metro This oddly located grill actually surprised us - and in a good way. Although we had to order at the bar, service was snappy, of the friendly variety and the food was overall to our liking. We suggest you stick with the grilled meat choices though as it seems to be what they do best. Keep in mind that they can get busy during lunch hour.QC-4, Viru väljak 2 (Metro Plaza), tel. (+372) 662 20 99, tommigrill@ gmail.com, www.tommigrill.ee. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. SB

mexican and tex-mex Ancho This eatery is right up there in terms of quality and they happen to care a lot about the end result - ie. tasty and rather authentic Mexican cuisine. The Jalapeno poppers were both crispy and juicy the last time we ‘popped’ in and the fajitas were very tasty. They also serve food late on Friday and Saturday nights which is a bonus when bar-hopping.QC-3, Müürivahe 17, tel. (+372) 660 04 98, [email protected], www.ancho.ee. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €€. J6BSW Amarillo Bright, friendly colours, hot (spicy) food, and a professional outlook set Amarillo a notch or two above most other Tex-Mex contenders. Other ‘Yankee’ choices such as burgers are as available as quesadillas and fajitas. The vast dining area and large kid’s play corner, make this restaurant on the ground floor of the Original Sokos Viru Hotel a great choice for families, while two bars cater to an after-work or after shopping crowd.QC-4, Viru väljak 4 (Sokos Hotel Viru), tel. (+372) 680 92 80, [email protected], www.amarillo.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. TUES 68 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Olde Hansa Many frequent travellers would say that you haven’t really been to Tallinn unless you’ve visited Olde Hansa. This Mecca of mediaevalism in the heart of Old Town doesn’t just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully-researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and waitresses in period costume and medieval background music. Chamber musicians round out the ambience every night of the week. Make sure to check out Olde Hansa’s Waggehus located just around the corner at Vanaturu Kael 8.QC-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20, reserve@ oldehansa.ee, www.oldehansa.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€. J6UIEB Peppersack Peppersack makes wonderful use of the 15th-century building it calls home - both the vast main hall and the more intimate rooms further back exude comfy medievalness. The menu is European-based and fun-loving, with clever choices like Lady Margareta’s weakness (chicken fillet) and Mansion Lord’s contemplation (duck fillet). The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch. Every day around 20:00 there’s a theatrical sword fight on the staircase, on Fridays and Saturdays followed by Oriental dancing. Great Terrace in the summer.QC-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372) 646 68 00, [email protected], www.peppersack. ee. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTi JUBW

seafood Bocca Pescheria Located inside the already highly acclaimed Bocca, this is kind of an eatery within a restaurant - but the focus here is on seafood. They get top marks for style, highstandards and creativity. The prices naturally are also a little on the high-end, but if you love seafood and are willing to ‘shell-out’ a little extra, then you’ll surely not be disappointed. QB-3, Olevimägi 9, tel. (+372) 611 72 90, www.bocca.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€€€. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

City Marina Restoran & Baar Situated right at the entrance of the port area, City Marina was surprisingly good. Tallinn’s port area is being revitalised and this eatery is just one of the many reasons why it might be worth checking out. Great spot for a dish of fish, a beer on the terrace, or one of several grill items - and at prices that will still allow you to pay your docking fees. QG-4, Kuunari (next to the Old City Marina), tel. (+372) 564 20 04, [email protected], www.citymarina.ee. Open 10:30 - 23:00. (€13) €€. TUBS

TAPITA TAPAS BAAR

THE # 1 TAPAS SPANISH

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TAPAS AND PINCHOS

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SOLARIS SHOPPING CENTRE (2ND

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spanish Alter Ego One of the most delightful culinary experiences we’ve had in some time comes in the form of this heavily Spanish-influenced, Mediterranean-style restaurant located in the fashionable Rotermanni Quarter. The owner is Spanish with roots in the wine industry and he certainly knows how to lavish his creativity and highly tuned palate into producing top-notch cuisine. Needless to say, the wine selection is immense and the dishes are mouth-watering.QB-4, Roseni 8 (Rotermanni Quarter), tel. (+372) 54 56 03 39, info@ alterego.ee, www.alterego.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PJ6UBSW new Tapita The only truly Spanish eatery in the centre of Tallinn and indeed the only authentic ‘Tapas Bar’ in Estonia - Tapita is a treat for the taste buds. This trendy, yet somewhat rustically-styled spot serves up a huge selection of the Spanish specialties, alongside some very drinkable wines and delectable desserts. Attention to detail, great service and a nice, airy vibe all contribute to this locale becoming one of our new favourites. QD-3, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (+372) 56 16 11 62, www. tapitaresto.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. USW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Roseni 8, 10111 Tallinn Tel. +372 54 56 0339 June - July 2014

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Restaurants

Restaurants middle eAsTern

russiAn

magnuna Not to be confused with the title of the Eurovision song “Maganuna”, which was just frightening - this reincarnation of another Asian/Middle Eastern restaurant that uses to be located on Pikk Street, is actually quite decent. They currently side more with the Middle Eastern way when it comes to their menu and apparently their chefs have globe-trotted to Tallinn from Afghanistan, the Sudan and Lebanon. Given the current political situations in all of those countries, we can’t say that we blame them.Qb-2, Lai 42, tel. (+372) 682 54 22, [email protected], www.magnuna.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Also at: C-2, pikk 35, tel. 682 95 80. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. JUBSW

Balalaika This Russian restaurant located in the flagship Meriton hotel at the base of Toompea, offers up all the usual Russian fare you’d expect, such as caviar and blinis and the dishes are all prepared quite nicely. One thing though that sets Balalaika apart from the others is that they also offer a cold zakuska buffet, presented in an antique carriage from St. Petersburg - that, and the complimentary half-shot of vodka of course. Na Zdorovie!QH-2, paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton grand Conference & spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 667 71 20, conferencespa@ meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. €€€. PULBW

suzani This modern, eastern-style restaurant is just a short hop from two of the larger shopping centres in central Tallinn. The interior is a fusion of traditional elements from the region alongside modern furnishings and brings with it a certain stylish aspect than one would wouldn’t expect from an eatery in this category. The chefs care a lot about what they create and the servers also seem genuine in wanting to accommodate their guests. The cuisine here is quite similar to food from the Caucus region - just so you know what to expect. Overall we were quite happy with our last experience here.QH-4, gonsiori 10, tel. (+372) 602 81 30, [email protected], www.suzaniresto.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. TS

new hermitage Given the way the St. Petersbourg Hotel’s high-class restaurant is decorated, it might very well be mistaken for a Russian oligarch’s sitting room, were it not for the fact that a smart waiter greets you at your table - actually a Russian oligarch would have their own private waiter. Classic aristocratic staples of Estonian and Russian origin are on offer and are prepared in a way that shows a clever chef at work. An excellent selection of vodkas and caviar are also par for the course. Our time at Hermitage was quite civilised to say the least and certainly a treat for those whom enjoy the finer things in life.QC-2, rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628 65 60, restaurant@ hermitage.ee, www.hotelstpetersbourg.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed sun. €€€. PJIBSW

ThAi krua One of the few truly Thai places in the city, overall we quite liked our experience when we last paid them a visit. The food was fresh, the service helpful and the atmosphere of this little cellar eatery was cosy enough to settle in for a while. We particularly liked the crunchy, shrimp spring rolls.QC-4, Vana-Viru 13/ Aia 4, tel. (+372) 646 26 13, [email protected], www.krua.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. JBSW troika One of Tallinn’s must-see cellar restaurants, Troika wows its clientele with a cosy, old-style Russian décor and a singer who belts out folk songs from a balcony from time to time. (When choosing your table, you may want to consider just how close you want to be to this spectacle.) But the best thing about this place is the food - excellent bliny and pelmeni as well as a selection of traditional main courses. Great service. Book ahead.QC-2, raekoja plats 15, tel. (+372) 627 62 45, [email protected], www.troika.ee. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. JUIEX

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RUSSIAN GOURMET MEETS TAPAS Only in restaurant Hermitage Rataskaevu 7, Tallinn’s Old Town (100 steps from Town Hall Square) Book your table: +372 628 6560 www.hermitage.ee

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Restaurants kadriorg area eateries The restaurants listed here are located in the scenic Kadriorg district of Tallinn. Check out our ‘Sightseeing’ section to find out more. Cantina Carramba Something this, well, Mexican is a surprise find out in the Kadriorg neighbourhood. One advantage Carramba has over its competitors, besides the inviting pueblo décor, is the spice level - Carramba doesn’t skimp on the peppers, and even the otherwise innocent-looking rice is fiery. The enchiladas, burritos, fajitas, etc. that make up the mains, might not quite be up to expectations among connoisseurs of this genre of cuisine.QG-5, Weizenbergi 20a, tel. (+372) 601 34 31, [email protected], www.carramba.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. T6S Gourmet Coffee Perhaps the best thing about this café is that they both import and brew their own beans onsite. Nothing says fresh better than a truly freshly roasted cup of coffee. This popular locale also serves up a full menu including some great breakfast options, but we happen to like it for the cosy interior and light bites. QG-5, Koidula 13, tel. (+372) 661 30 35, kohvik@ gourmetcoffee.ee, www.gourmetcoffee.ee. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also at: E-2, Pärnu mnt. 15, tel. 617 33 17. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. €€. iBS Katharinenthal Café This picture-perfect eatery located at the corner of Kadriorg Park’s swan pond is a nice spot to while away an afternoon sipping on a cappuccino or nibbling on one of their tasty cakes. During the winter you will find the stylish interior quite cosy and in the summer months you can watch all sorts of beautiful birds from the lovely tree-shaded patio. Be warned though, the prices are very ‘upscale’ and the dishes, although decent, are simply not worth the lofty prices in our opinion.QG-5, Weizenbergi 22, tel. (+372) 601 10 55, [email protected], www.katharinenthal.ee. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. €€. PiT6BSW NOP - shop & café Originally touted as an eco-friendly organic shop and café, this addition to the Kadriorg landscape is certainly fresh and trendy. The food was nicely prepared, presented and we certainly enjoyed the mellow atmosphere while lingering over a coffee. You’ll also be able to find some fresh and interesting food items to take home with you from the shop. Overall we quite liked the place.QG-5, Köleri 1, tel. (+372) 603 22 70, [email protected], www.nop. ee. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (€6). T6ISW 72 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Exquisite treats from the Russian kitchen.

RESTAURANT BALALAIKA We offer an exclusive dining experience reflecting the extensive knowledge & passion for Russian art & cuisine. Paldiski mnt. 4, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa hotel

U Nataši Kind of like the little brother to their Balalaika restaurant, the ‘Russian Eatery’ is more laid-back and café-like featuring daily dishes, dumplings, soups, blinis and crêpes. It’s the kind of place where one can hang around a while, read a book, surf the internet or just enjoy a conversation with a friend. Great desserts too!QA-3, Lai 49 (Meriton Old Town hotel), tel. (+372) 614 13 50, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. €€€. JB Vana Moskva Typical of the Meriton chain in Tallinn, this Russian buffet/à la carte restaurant certainly provides the right mix of style, quality and service one would expect from them. You can either opt for the daily buffet for a fixed price or choose something from the small but tantalising à la carte menu. Naturally all the Russian favourites are on offer from borscht to blinis (Russian pancake) with caviar. If price is not a concern, we suggest you try the Beluga caviar with freshly made blinis for a mere €156. A great selection of wines and vodkas round out the drinks menu.QB-2, Pikk 33, tel. (+372) 664 88 80, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. JB

trendy restaurants Restaurants Lounge Deja Vu Wait - haven’t we been here before? Actually, no we haven’t. This reincarnation of a local favourite nightspot serves up plenty of tasty and trendy treats, the service is

great and the atmosphere is stylish. We tried the shrimp and the Caesar salad and were quite impressed. Turns into a full-on party during the weekend nights and the kitchen stays open late too.QC-3, Vana-Viru 8, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 55, [email protected], www.dejavu.ee. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PJEBXW Platz Everything old is new again - or at least in the Rotermanni Quarter it is. It’s here you’ll find this stylish yet elegant eatery nestled into an old, industrial limestone building. The artfully prepared cuisine, is an innovative and fresh fusion of European flavours using local ingredients whenever possible. We quite enjoyed the duck breast and the crème brûlée on our last visit.QB-4, Roseni 7, tel. (+372) 664 50 86, [email protected], www. platz.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PJ6LEBS Ribe This Nordic-style eatery is a good representation of a current trend in Tallinn and the food and overall experience were excellent the last time we ate there. The intriguing menu items are all artistically presented and the interior design is just pretty as punch. We found the portions a little on the slim side, nonetheless the ambience, friendly service, fantastic wine list made a trip here worthwhile. QC-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 30 84, [email protected], www. ribe.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. TJ6

RESTAURANT VANA MOSKVA An authentic Russian cuisine for a good price and good value - a cold and warm buffet and à la carte menu are available. Pikk 33 RESTAURANT U NATAŠI The food is simply „coming home to mom“ good and it’s hard to find more value for your money than that. Lai 49, Meriton Old Town hotel

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Restaurants uPscAle Bordoo Estonian for Bordeaux, the Three Sisters restaurant is in a class unto itself. The stylish interior combines a new world elegance with hints of its old world surroundings. Headed up by an award-winning chef and his energetic team, the focus here is on fresh local ingredients brought to life with creativity and flavourful ideas. To top it all off, they also create their very own artisan breads, scrumptious marmalades and to-die-for desserts. Afterwards you’re invited to head downstairs to the Beluga Bar for even more temptations, of the liquid variety - top champagnes, the exclusive Beluga Vodka and a variety of caviar and other snacks are available in the intimate lounge. Cosy courtyard in the summer.QA/b-3, pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 55, bordoo@threesistershotel. com, www.threesistershotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. J

hAve your sAy If you have an opinion about any venues listed in this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website has a function for comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it. Al bastione I had last Friday dinner I was invited with other friends for tasting the food and wines. There is noting like that in Tallinn. It’s real Italian restaurant. Excellent pizza, different kind of food all excellent. Wine house Refosco del Peduncolo is my favourite. They will open officially on Wednesday 09.04.14 and I already booked table. You must try it . - Diana, Italy, 07 April 2014 gotsu I’ve been living in Tallinn for a year and a half, and Gotsu is my favourite restaurant. Definitely not overpriced, especially for the quality. :) - Abigail Tallinn, 05 January 2014 Trattoria gallo Nero A charmimng and wonderful restaurant with very good Italien food. Good service too! - Arild Norway, 03 January 2014 74 Tallinn In Your Pocket

gloria Gloria has been synonymous with class and style since it opened in 1937, and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-war interior, you’ll understand why this was the restaurant of choice for the Pope and several visiting heads of state. In case you need more convincing, Condé Nast named Gloria one of the world’s 100 best. We found our meal here a relaxing, well-orchistrated experience.QD-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. (+372) 640 68 00, [email protected], www.gloria.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:30, sat 17:00 - 23:30. €€€€. JS kuninga restoran This ‘kingly’ restaurant is more of an upscale eatery than just a place to find great seafood. Their menu, although prominently featuring seafood, offers other finely prepared dishes as well. The interior is a nice blend of antique and contemporary and the cuisine is also delightfully prepared by their competent kitchen staff and head-chef Rustam Chikalovets. It’s also one of the few places in town where one can find fresh lobster and the only place in Tallinn where you can dine on marlin or skate wing. The lobsters are shipped in from Canadian waters and can be chosen by diners from the tank. Service and the wine list are also top-notch, making this a great choice for those whom enjoy the finer things in life. QC-2, Kuninga 3, tel. (+372) 646 60 08, info@kuninga. ee, www.kuninga.ee. Open 12:00 - 24.00. €€€€. PJLBSW m.c grill The Schlössle hotel’s venerated restaurant is an elegant refuge decorated with colourful swaths of cloth that bring to mind a fairytale castle. Everything on the menu is exquisitely prepared by a team of award-winning chefs, making it well worth the price.QC-3, pühavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 80, [email protected], www.schloesslehotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. JIEXW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Cafés Classic cafés

Fashionable

The staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. It’s not that these places don’t have ambience - they do, but they’re more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in.

Tallinn’s most en vogue cafés all offer full meals as well as the satisfaction that you’re with the ‘in’ crowd.

Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Café Chocoholics beware! This little, Old Town café features Anneli Viik’s handmade chocolates, made on the spot and sold either by the box for take-away, or in smaller portions to accompany your coffee (or light food or cognac, etc). There’s even a glass wall that lets you watch the chocolatiers do their stuff.QB-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 644 45 30, [email protected], www.anneliviik.ee. Open 10:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. J6USW Mademoiselle Considered for years to be one of Tallinn’s best places to get a delectable dessert, this classic café still lives up to its reputation. Along with the many calorie-laden treats on offer, you can also find a few decent savoury meals and a couple of breakfast options at each of the two locations around town.QB-3, Pikk 29 (Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 05, hotels@meritonhotels. com, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Also at: H-3, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 628 81 55. Open 07:00 22:00. €. TJSW Maiasmokk Tallinn’s oldest café, the Sweet Tooth has been serving marzipan and other treats since it opened way back in 1864. Drop in for elaborate cakes, cheap coffee, and an amazing, pre-war interior.QC-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 40 79, www.kalev.eu/maiasmokk/kohvik. Open 08:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. JS Pikajala Kohvik There aren’t too many places to grab a bite or a coffee when you reach the top of the hill that is Toompea, but this is one of them. A reincarnation of an old tourist trap of the same name has actually gotten much better and eating a light bite here won’t break the bank.QC-1, Pikk jalg 16, tel. (+372) 648 14 28, [email protected], www.pikajalakohvik.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00. €€€. PJ6BSW Reval Café It’s the one with the giant mocha pot. The atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable, the perfect spot to lounge out with a cup of joe and a friend. If you’d rather have a read with your coffee, head upstairs where there’s less noise. QC-2/3, Vene 1, tel. (+372) 644 64 73, info@revalcafe. ee, www.revalcafe.ee. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:30 - 21:00. Also at: D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 81 00. Open Mon - Tue 07:30 - 23:00, Wed - Thu 07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:30 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. €. J6UIESW 76 Tallinn In Your Pocket

coming soon!

Must Puudel The Black Poodle is a funky, retro eatery with a heavy Soviet living-room feel and a cosy, retro atmosphere that seems to be its main draw. The fresh cuisine is kind of a blend between trendy and home-style, the prices won’t bankrupt you and there are even live entertainment events held some weekends. It certainly can get quite busy during the lunch rush and some evenings, just keep that in mind.QD-3, Müürivahe 20, tel. (+372) 505 62 58, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 09:00 - 23:00, Wed 09:00 - 01:00. €. JEBW Popular & Köök Boheem This centrally located, ‘popular’ locale offers a wide variety of light-eats and full meals, all prepared fresh and decently priced. Great spot for people watching, especially during the warmer months when their terrace opens. On weekend nights it turns into a loungy club of sorts, offering all the latest beats from genres we haven’t even heard of.QC-3, Vana-Viru 6, tel. (+372) 641 45 65. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri 09:00 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €. JBXW Vana Toomas Named after the famous Town Hall weather vane that can actually be seen from some of the tables here, this café offers fresh baked goods, pizzas, salads and other hearty but healthy dishes. While nothing fancy, the food is quite decent and they even present respectable and inexpensive breakfast options from 08:30 - 11:00 every day. We dare you to try the cheesecake, you may or may not regret it.QC-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 42 27, [email protected], www.vanatoomas.ee. Open 08:30 - 24:00. €€€. JBS Wabadus The newest incarnation of this eatery, formerly known as Moskva and Kultus, just happens to hit the nail right on the head - so to speak. From the clean interior design and 1930’s inspired outfits to the delightfully prepared dishes and the snappy service, Wabadus will transport you back in time.QD-2, Vabaduse väljak 10, tel. (+372) 53 70 19 03/(+372) 644 42 32, [email protected], www. wabadus.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. €€. JEBW XX sajand Located just across from the Tourist Information Centre, this is a great little spot for a light bite, a coffee, a dessert or a cocktail - ‘20th Century’ is both cosy and central. You can tell that the owners have put their hearts into it and it’s one place we will certainly visit again.QC-2, Kullassepa 13, tel. (+372) 611 90 85, [email protected], www. xxsajand.ee. Open , Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 22:00, Thu 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. €€€. TJ6EBSW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Troika Café Although this stylish Russian café wasn’t quite open by the time we went to print - we hear you can expect great coffee, teas, delicious desserts, pastries and some excellent light bites as well. The interior certainly gives the impression of a Russian tea room and is just one more reason to pay them a visit.QC-4, Mere pst. 5, tel. (+372) 631 37 65, [email protected]. Open 09:00 22:00. €€. JB

A beautiful décor is just one of Troika café’s allures

Stylish & Cosy These classy establishments are best for long chats with friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your next novel. Bogapott Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toompea, the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway. Fresh, flaky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in this combination café, art shop and ceramics studio.QC1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. JIBW

Cafés

Bonaparte Nestled in a beautiful, 17th-century building, Bonaparte certainly has a refined atmosphere, but it’s a casual and surprisingly affordable place to sip earl grey and sample the buttery croissants and other home-made pastries. Sit and watch the world go by, or check out one of the revolving art exhibits.QB-3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44, [email protected], www.bonaparte.ee. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. €€. iJ6BSW C’est La Vie This swanky establishment’s 1930’s style interior will have you dancing the Charleston. The cuisine certainly has a French bent to it, and the romantic ambience makes this a great choice for a date.QC-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48, [email protected], www. cestlavie.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PTJ6EBSW Josephine Brought to you by the same fine chocolatiers as Pierre located in the courtyard just down the street, the atmosphere at Josephine is quite a bit different a little swankier, and oh man, you have got to try the handmade chocolate. This is not a bad place to indulge your yourself in decadence.QC-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 641 82 91, pierre@ pierre.ee, www.pierre.ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PJBSW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Kehrwieder Chocolaterie One of the best cafés in town for ambience, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cave-like stone rooms filled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent gourmet coffees, handmade chocolates and the Town Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned it can get crowded here.QC-2, Saiakang 1 (Raekoja Plats), tel. (+372) 55 56 72 03, saiakang@ kohvik.ee, www.kohvik.ee. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. JBSW Koogel Moogel This cosy café tucked into a little corner on top of Toompea certainly makes you feel at home, whether you’re interested in a lite bite, a coffee or a dessert - in fact you may even want to have all three. It has a spacious play-area for the kids and doubles as a party-room for children’s birthday parties after regular hours. Great place to take the kids. QC-1, Toom-Kooli 13, tel. (+372) 505 88 76, kohvik@ piipjatuut.ee. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Make sure to call ahead if you want to head here after 5pm on weekdays - just in case they’ve booked a party. TJBS Pierre Chocolaterie People squeeze into this quaint, frilly, 19th-century style café for two reasons: One is that it has its own master Chocolatier who cooks up truffles from scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere. Be warned that seats fill up fast and that during slow times they occasionally close a little early.QC-3, Vene 6 (in the Masters Courtyard), tel. (+372) 641 80 61, [email protected], www.pierre.ee. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. JBSW Till ja Kummel (Dill & Chamomile) Brits may find it offensive but pretty much every, if not all, dishes served here contain the Estonian mainstay - dill. Not that every dish consists heavily of dill, but as their name suggests, the addition of the herb to every dish kind of serves as a ‘calling card’ - so to speak. Every item we had here was enjoyed quite thouroughly and the burger certainly hit the mark - something we actually have a hard time with here in Tallinn. Lovely little courtyard too, weather permitting.QC2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 670 10 77, [email protected], www.till-kummel.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. J6BSW June - July 2014

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Nightlife Mad Murphy’s Mad Murphy’s has taken over the space of Tallinn’s longest running, authentic Irish Pub - but have no fear, given the extensive renovations and commitment to excellence, Murphy’s more than makes up for the void that Molly’s left behind. It’s everything you’d expect from an Irish Pub and a whole lot more. Featuring a well-ventilated smoking room, a dance-floor, more large-screens than you can shake a stick at and some fantastic live music on weekends, Murphy’s can certainly get quite ‘mad’ any night of the week. They also serve up an excellent variety of your favourite pub grub. Great summer terrace and an great selection of beers on tap. Murphy’s currently has a whiskey corner and the largest selection of whiskeys in Estonia. A sampler menu also available for the whiskey connoisseur.QC-2, Mündi 2, tel. (+372) 625 45 44/(+372) 601 10 70, [email protected], www. madmurphys.ee. Open 10:00 - 04:00. JBXW One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspiciously high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign visitors, this just means there’s more variety on offer. This section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that suits your mood, whatever that may be. Please keep in mind that many of the bars, lounges and pubs we have listed also offer extensive menu’s and are usually open at noon - making some of them quite viable options for lunch or dinner.

Expat hangouts

Nimeta Baar (The Pub with No Name) In case the flags hanging out front don’t give it away, Nimeta is the quintessential expat bar. At times it looks like something between a British stag party hangout and an expat boys’ club, but a good number of locals and backpacker types make it more interesting, especially on weekends when DJs get people into the dancing mood. A good place to watch sports and/or eat pub food.QC/D-3, Suur-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 641 15 15/(+372) 56 49 14 91, [email protected], www.nimetabaar.ee. Open 10:00 04:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. JUBXW

Whether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these bars and pubs are where Tallinn’s expats, a fare share of locals that like to speak English and more than a few tourists, tend to congregate. Clayhills Gastropub Serving up gastronomical delights both by day and night, this is a great place to hang out in a relaxed atmosphere. Clayhills, situated in the heart of the Old Town offers up an excellent selection of local and imported beers, heart-warming and creative pub cuisine and a healthy dose of live music on weekends. If you’re looking for a more intimate experience, you can check out the cosy upstairs on the 2nd floor. Watch Tallinn pass you by from one of the window seats, or from the large outdoor terrace in the warmer months!QC-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641 93 12, [email protected], www. clayhills.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. J6EBW

6 Pets allowed

J Old Town location

I Fireplace

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking area

S Take-away

L Free parking

W Wifi

N Payment in cash only

Estonian style If you’re looking for a bit of local flavour, try these. III Draakon (The Third Dragon) Tucked into the corner of Tallinn’s famous Town Hall, this teensy-weensy tavern has both a historic ambience and an enviable location. Better still, it’s owned by Olde Hansa so it’s guaranteed to be a great locale to grab a soup, pastry or a pint of ‘mead’. All drinks are €2-3, food is €1-3 and brine pickles in the barrel are FREE!QC-2, Raekoja plats 1 (Town Hall), tel. (+372) 627 90 20, draakon@ kolmasdraakon.ee, www.kolmasdraakon.ee. Open 08:00 - 24:00. JS

Nightlife

Karja Kelder A well-loved Old Town pub with a more relaxed, local feel than its expat-oriented neighbours, Karja Kelder is definitely one to seek out. The variety of cheap beer (and food) makes it a hit, as do the occasional live bands. One caveat is that it gets crowded in the evening, necessitating a totalitarian coat-check policy.QC/D-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 644 10 08/(+372) 644 65 87, [email protected], www. karjakelder.ee. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. JESW Valli Baar The Valli is definitely one Tallinn establishment you need to check out. Let’s just say that it is so full of ‘local colour’, it even had a documentary made about it recently. It’s also a well known fact that attractive blondes often head here for the house speciality ‘Millimallikas’ cocktail before trawling for men over at Club Hollywood. This bar undoubtedly makes it seem cool to be a dirty old man.QD-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 83 79. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JE

how to toast in estonian

Hell Hunt If you just want to grab a beer with friends and avoid the tourist scene, Hell Hunt (The Gentle Wolf) is probably your best bet. An open, comfortable drinking establishment with a strong sense of style, it pulls in the locals by the droves with its no-nonsense atmosphere. While here, try the pub’s own brand of light and dark beers (brewed in Viru Õlu). Good, cheap food too.QB-3, Pikk 39, tel. (+372) 681 83 33, [email protected], www.hellhunt.ee. Open 12:00 02:00. Age restriction 18+. J6IEXW 78 Tallinn In Your Pocket

SYMBOL key

If you want to get in good with the locals, it never hurts to learn how to toast in the national language. Luckily it’s fairly simple here: Estonians toast by clinking their glasses and saying ‘Terviseks’ (health). It’s crucial, however, that you look your drinking companion in the eye just as your glasses are clinking. If you miss this step, the toast doesn’t count and you’ll have to start all over! tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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Cigar lounges Chicago 1933 This is hands-down, the best cigar lounge in the city. The lounge comprises the entire upstairs floor of the restaurant, contains a walk-in humidor, a copious amount of fine cigars and more cognac than could kill the entire line-up at the Kentucky Derby - that’s horses and jockeys.QC-3, Aia 3, tel. (372) 627 12 66, [email protected], www.chicago. ee. Open , Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JUXSW La Casa Del Habano Owned by Estonia’s exclusive Cuban cigar distributor, this beautiful, casual Afro-Caribbean-style lounge has comfy chairs and a warm look. It’s a sensible place to stop for a Cohiba or a cup of Cuban coffee at the beginning or the end of your evening out. Friendly, professional service.QC-2, Dunkri 2, tel. (+372) 644 56 47, [email protected], www.havanas.ee. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JXW Sigari Maja (Cigar House) The quiet, old-fashioned luxury at the Cigar House extends to wood panelling, a fireplace and busts of ancient Greek philosophers. A wide selection of Cuban, Dominican and other cigars on offer.QC-2, Raekoja plats 16, tel. (+372) 631 47 35, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Age restriction 21+. JIX

have your say If you have an opinion about any venues listed in this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website has a function for comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it. Amsterdam Gentleman’s Club This place is ahorror.A taxi driver brought me to this hole when i asked him about some funny place I could chill out.But I didn’t expect 30 girls begging me to buy them drinks and go to private for an erotic massage with happy ending!I liked the dancing on the stage,but I didn’t like the begging girls.And I’ve noticed that all the girls are too old140years old for a stripper is too much...i think. - James Bristol,UK. 03 May 2014 Hell Hunt Good local place for a pint and some very good pub food. Beer snacks, burgers, fish and chips, Shepherd’s Pie...along with a large variety of beers available. Service for our large group was good. More touristy than a few years ago...but probably because it is a good spot in the Old Town. - JZ Canada, 25 March 2014 June - July 2014

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Nightlife Live entertainment Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in particular are known as venues for live music. Café Amigo (see clubs) also pulls in some of Estonia’s best acts.

Karaoke Due to Tallinn’s proximity to the karaoke-loving nation of Finland, there are quite a few karaoke spots to be found here. By no means have we listed all the possible karaoke venues, but here are a few that specialise in the art of personal embarrassment. Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar Brought to you by the most popular vodka in Finland, this spot runs Karaoke every night except Sunday. They take this art-form so seriously they even hold competitions and have a client card.QB-4, Roseni 13, tel. (+372) 681 65 05, [email protected], www. karaokebaar.ee. Open 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 03:00. Closed Sun. JXW Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club This cellar karaoke bar/restaurant is stylish and boasts some pretty expensive equipment. They even have an AST-100, which, to diehard karaoke fans, is pretty much equal to the best drug ever. The machine comes packed with 35,000 modern hits in various languages such as Russian, Estonian, English and Finnish. Who knows, you just may find your inner Hasselhof or Cher while performing here. A large plasma screen displays a video and text, just a great backdrop for all your adoring fans if you ask us.QC-2, Lai 5, tel. (+372) 616 11 88, [email protected], www.laif.ee. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. J Satumaa Karaoke Bar Many Finns are pretty much born with the ‘karaoke gene’ pre-installed. Satumaa is indeed Finnish owned and if you truly want the full-on karaoke experience, head down this alley off Viru on a weekend night for a truly bizarre time. You’ll either wake up the next morning with a story stranger than fiction, or you’ll wake-up in a strange hotel room with no idea what happened the night before - lying next to someone that even the best ‘beer goggles’ wouldn’t be able to fix.QC-3, Viru 4, tel. (+372) 660 70 60, [email protected], www.satumaabar.com. Open 12:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. JEX Vana Toomas karaoke Offering karaoke two nights per week - this is by far the most central and even draws a fair amount of locals. QC-2, Raekoja plats 10, tel. (+372) 631 42 27, www. vanatoomas.ee. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 24:00. J 80 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Bastioni Aed An outdoor café by day and live entertainment venue by night, this spot tucked into a courtyard, serves up some pretty decent food and some enjoyable distractions as well. Due to the outside location however, this locale will best be enjoyed during the warmer months and with favourable weather. They also have a ‘Shisha’ smoking section for devotees of the water pipe. Concert admission starts at €5, depending on the act. Check their Facebook Fanpage for upcoming events and details.QC-3, Viru 23 courtyard, tel. (+372) 666 00 05, [email protected], www.albastione.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. JEBX Chicago 1933 For some of the finest live blues this side of... well - Chicago, you can check out this swinging establishment just around the corner from the Viru Gates. The interior is all decked out in rich, dark wood and filled with large booths just like they have in the ‘Windy City’. There’s a strict ‘no firearms allowed’ policy though, so make sure you check your guns at the door.QC-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66, [email protected], www.chicago.ee. Open , Mon, Tue 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PJUEBXSW Comedy Estonia The ‘kids’ who brought laughter to Estonia, perform shows and host comedy events all around the country. In Tallinn they hold a stand-up show at Hetk, usually at the beginning of every month. These shows feature some great up-and-coming international talent as well as local comics and the hosts themselves, Louis & Stewart. We quite enjoyed ourselves the last time we were there - naturally you’re bound to hear a few mandatory groans mixed into the ‘stew-pot’ of chuckles, but the entertainment factor was all good. The Tallinn stand-up night tends to draw quite the crowd, so get there early. They also frequently bring in some of the comedy world’s heavy-hitters at a larger venue in town. See website for upcoming shows and details.QB-4, Roseni 9/11 (Hetk), tel. (+372) 55 95 39 96, [email protected], www.comedyestonia. com/events/. Every second Wednesday of each month, show starts at 20:00. Admission €6. JKXW Harry’s New-York Bar This lobby bar in the Radisson Blu Skyhotel is part of a small chain which originated in Paris back in 1911. In the those days it was simply called ‘New York Bar’, the bartender bought the bar and added his name to it and the rest as they say is history. Other than inventing a few, by now, world-renowned cocktails including the ‘Sidecar’, ‘Bloody Mary’, ‘White Lady’ and ‘Blue Lagoon’ among others - the original Harry’s has hosted more than it’s fare share of fatallinn.inyourpocket.com

mous names and faces. The Radisson’s version might not be steeped in as much history as the Parisian one, but what you can expect here is live piano music, great cocktails and some friendly and knowledgeable staff.QH-4, Rävala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 682 30 00, [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/skyhotel-tallinn. Open 11:00 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. UEW Scotland Yard An absolute monster of a pub just outside Old Town, Scotland Yard earns praise for its quaint Victorian-library/police-department interior, which even includes toilets done up like electric chairs! On busy nights, sadly, people have died of old age waiting to get a drink at the bar but the table service is a lot better, so just grab a seat and slam a few back before heading out to one of the numerous clubs in the area. Live music every Friday and Saturday nights starting at 10pm.QB-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 653 51 90, [email protected], www.scotlandyard.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Admission free. JLEW Von Krahl The real name is ‘Von Krahli Baar’ but regulars just call it ‘Krahl.’ This down-to-earth pub attached to a local theatre is where Tallinn’s alternative bands come to play, and naturally the crowd tends towards students, punks and artsy types. Come by during the day for good, cheap pub food. QC-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372) 626 90 90, baar@ vonkrahl.ee, www.vonkrahl.ee. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JEW

Nightlife

Hookah joints Perhaps due to the fact that many Estonians holiday in Egypt where shisha smoking is pretty much a human-right, there are loads of establishments around town that offer a puff. Here we have listed just a couple that specialise in the pastime. Loca (Sisha Café) This extension of the eatery next door offers a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere in which to smoke hookahs. They have more flavours of tobacco than you probably even knew existed and cosy rooms where one can recline on soft pillows while puffing your cares away. The overall atmosphere reminds one of an old-style opium den fused with a Bedouin tent and a trendy lounge bar. QE-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 55 51 52 35, www.loca.ee. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 08:00. Vesipiibu Kohvik (Water Pipe Café) Certainly a tongue-twister for most foreigners, the vesi-piibu-koh-vik is quite a relaxing place to while away your afternoons, or evenings. Live belly dance shows on weekends are certain to be a hit - get it?QE-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 56 46 46 06, andres@ vesipiibukohvik.ee, www.vesipiibukohvik.ee. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. Age restriction 18+. LXW

Viru väljak 2 Metro Plaza Sun - Thu 10 - 24 Fri - Sat 10 - 02

Tatari 64 Mon - Fri 10 - 07 Sat - Sun 12 - 07

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Nightlife Bars & Pubs NYC Piano Bar Odd, refined, kitschy, stylish, trendy - all words that equally apply to this Piano Bar and eatery. Their menu prominently features many items that you could find in New York city and they even have ‘sliders’ - mini burgers which can be ordered in increments of 3, 6, or 9 at a time. We’ve been asking various locales for years to put sliders on the menu - kudos to them for finally bringing them to Tallinn. Add to that an excellent cocktail menu and live music 5 days a week and we pretty much have a winner.QD-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372) 622 93 34, [email protected], www.nyc. ee. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. JEBXW Route 13 Bar It’s a lively locale on Old Town’s main bar street. This nightlife reincarnation hopes to attract a slightly more sophisticated crowd than those who used to come here for cheap drinks. Although now the style is that of an American eatery/bar (and indeed the cuisine certainly reflects that), the atmosphere still had the air of being a bit of a ‘meet market’ at least when we visited on a Friday night - the little dance area in back sees plenty of action. They’re still putting the finishing touches on the place though, but we

Casinos Although slowly becoming more scarce, Tallinn is swimming with so-called ‘slot halls,’ which have gaming machines only. A few casinos, however, offer real gaming tables, meaning blackjack, poker, roulette, etc. Casino Grand Prix Though it’s pretty much all slot machines and electronic roulette, this roomy place in an Old Town cinema is a cut above the usual.QD-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372) 53 04 43 86, www.grandprix.ee. Open 24hrs. J Olympic Casino Olümpia Olympic Casino - Tallinn’s biggest, brightest, most complete and cutting-edge casino is the Olympic’s flagship branch. Apart from their excellent service, they offer the newest slot-machines, Roulette, Blackjack, Oasis Poker, Russian Poker, Ultimate Texas and Baccarat among other games. The Olybet Sports Bar is also a new feature of the Olympic and you’re invited to enjoy their snazzy lounge where you can either take a break between gambling or just hang out with friends for a drink or three. Naturally there’s also free WIFI and a currency exchange onsite - so you don’t run out of ‘fun’, just before you’ve gotten started. International poker tournaments are held here and they run a great show program every week. QH-4, Liivalaia 33 (Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia), tel. (+372) 1677, [email protected], www.olympic-casino. com. Open 24hrs. Age restriction 21+. Also at: C-4, Vana-Viru 14. Open 24hrs. JEXW 82 Tallinn In Your Pocket

hear some great things and they should be completely ready come September.QD-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 680 76 17, [email protected]. Open , Mon, Tue 11:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 07:00, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. JXW St. Patrick’s The name and décor may be Irish, but the crowds in each of Tallinn’s four St. Patrick’s pubs are just about as Estonian as they come. The one here on Suur-Karja is the most famous, cleverly built into a spacious, medieval hall. All offer decent, cheap food, and every fourth Saku Originaal is always free.QC/D-2, Suur-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 641 81 73, [email protected], www.patricks.ee. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. 631 48 01. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: E-2, Pärnu mnt 20, tel. 669 18 16. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel: 664 04 43. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. J6W Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday night, Tallinn’s Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy country/rock or old blues played in the stereo. Monster portions of fries will kill even the worst munchies.QB-3, Pikk 43, tel. (+372) 631 17 55, [email protected], www.texas.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. J6IEBSW new The Highlander The only Scottish pub in Tallinn, this intimate little cellar venue stocks the largest variety of Scottish beers and whiskeys in Estonia. If you have a hankering for some of Scotland’s favourite bar foods you’ll also find them at the Highlander. Deep-fried ‘haggis-baws’, sausage rolls, scotch eggs and deep fried mars bars make this the right place if you’re planning on throwing your diet into a deep ‘loch’. Karaoke, occasional live music on weekends and some excellent whiskey based cocktails and moonshine as well. ‘Lets get pissed!’. Set to open in the middle of June! QC-2, Kuninga 1, tel. (+372) 511 42 25, www.highlanderpub.ee. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. JEB Tommi Grill Metro Primarily known for it’s reasonable priced lunches and excellent grilled meat (see Meaty choices in the restaurants), Tommi also doubles as a pretty decent and cosy pub for grabbing some drinks and appetisers with friends before you hit the town.QC-4, Viru väljak 2 (Metro Plaza), tel. (+372) 662 20 99, [email protected], www. tommigrill.ee. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. Also at: I-2, Tatari 64, tel. 625 78 16. Open 10:00 07:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 07:00. SB

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Nightlife

Nightlife Beer bars A few years ago it was difficult to find beers of exceptional character or quality in Tallinn. A few individuals and establishments certainly changed that and now it’s actually not too hard to find something other than the typical brews both on tap or by the bottle in many of the centrally located bars. There are however a few establishments that go the extra ‘mile’ in this category. If you happen to be a beer connoisseur or just in the mood for something different, check these places out. Beer Garden Although certainly a bit of a tourist place, catering primarily to groups of Finnish ‘day-trippers’, this ‘Bavarian-styled’ pub is quite nicely decorated and the food quality is rather decent for a locale of its genre and their burgers are quite excellent - just ask them to hold back a little on the sauce. Given the atmosphere though, we certainly felt that the the cuisine should have reflected the decor, merely in our opinion. Live music can be enjoyed on weekends. QC-4, Aia 10 / Inseneri 1, tel. (+372) 688 00 13, info@ beergarden.com, www.beergarden.ee. Open 11:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. JEBW Beer House So, how much German oompah music can you stand? Just teasing, they do play other beer-drinking favorites as well. This enormous, old-fashioned, Bavarian-style beer hall is something of a landmark in Tallinn. That said, the sprawling restaurant just off Town Hall Square is also Tallinn’s only microbrewery, serving seven very decent in-house varieties.QC-2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, [email protected], www.beerhouse.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Age restriction 18+. PJEBXS Brewery Beer Club With 47 different beers to choose from (including Stella on tap), a stylish interior and excellent service - BBC certainly has a lot going for it. The cuisine did not quite live up to our expectations though. With the Estonian favourite, ‘potato seasoning’, blanketing our fries and a burger that literally fell apart in our hands under the weight of what appeared to be Caesar salad dressing - this addition to Tallinn’s dining and drinking scene, fell a little flat when we last visited but we have been assured they are trying to improve upon what could be a really good thing.QC-2, Pikk 1, tel. (+372) 631 36 31, [email protected], www.brewery. ee. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PJUIEBXW Drink Bar & Grill Although no longer affiliated with Tallinn’s resident beerguru, they still offer a great selection of natural and ‘live’ beers, a special ‘house brew’, unusual imports and even organic and ‘still’ ciders. On a typical evening you’ll find a lively bunch of patrons from all over the world; backpackers, locals and ex-pats all seem to congregate here.

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Vodka and Champagne bars The newest trend in Tallinn at the moment seems to be vodka and champagne bars. Two locales have recently opened with surely many more to follow. Naturally you should expect high quality vodka, champagnes and some exceptional snacks or ‘zakuska’ to compliment either of these two alcoholic beverages. Mull This cosy champagne-lounge, owned by the beautiful model, Estonian personality and model agency owner Beatrice, features just the right amount of stylish and artistic atmosphere you might want in a bubbly lounge. Mull in fact, means ‘bubble’ in English and they certainly can offer you a wide-variety of the bubbly stuff, alongside perfectly-paired and home-made lite-bites for the occasion. They ‘officially’ close at midnight and are often reserved for private parties, so it’s best to contact them ahead of time and start your evening off here - then head to one of the many clubs in town once you’ve been sufficiently ‘lubricated’.QB-3, Sulevimägi 5, tel. (+372) 501 40 26, www.beatrice. ee/mull.html. Open 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Call ahead to make a reservation. JW Seafood & Vodka bar Located in the lobby of the Meriton Hotel chain’s flagship spa and conference hotel, this stylish yet intimate little bar serves up a wide-variety ‘bubbly’ some excellent vodka and a selection of fresh seafood to go along with your liquid refreshments. Good selection of caviar as well.QH-3, Paldiski mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. W Whatever category you might fit into you’ll be sure to have feel at home here, imbibing in a ‘drink’ or otherwise. Check out their fantastic beer shop, located just around the corner.QD-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 644 94 33, [email protected]. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. J6IBXW Põrgu A great place to grab a decently prepared bite to eat or an interesting beer, Põrgu, or Hell in Estonian, is worth a visit. Ironically enough it’s situated in a cellar but we didn’t notice any roaring fire the last time we visited - unless of course you can call candle flames roaring. The real treat here is being able to choose from 15 draught beers and ciders as well as 80+ bottled beers. They have a good selection of Estonian micro-brews, as well as their very own red house beer - the recipe was even conceived by the owner. Every month they change one or two of their draught beers, just to shake it up a little.QC-2, Rüütli 4, tel. (+372) 644 02 32, [email protected], www.porgu.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. J June - July 2014

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ArTsy/underground

Trendy lounge bArs

wine bArs

The raw underbelly of Tallinn’s music and art scene will be appealing only to more adventurous travellers.

Dress to impress and mingle with Tallinn’s trendy club types or upwardly mobile elite.

In recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophisticated, mature alternative in this overly beer-centric town.

depeche mode Vilnius has its Frank Zappa statue, so it’s only fair that Tallinn has this bar dedicated to Depeche Mode. For normal humans, this is just a friendly dive bar stuffed with fan memorabilia. But if you’re a true DM fan, this is all you ever wanted, all you ever needed.QC-2, Voorimehe 4, tel. (+372) 631 43 08, [email protected], www.depechemode.ee. Open 12:00 - 04:00. Age restriction 18+. JEXW

Butterfly lounge When we were last here we got the distinct feeling that this lounge was geared primarily towards the ladies. Perhaps it was the pink-clad waiters, overall butterfly motif, frou-frou menu items and more cock... tails than you can shake a stick at that made us feel this way, but if you want to spend the evening hanging out with a harem of beautiful dames, this just might be the perfect place. Excellent service.QC4, Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, tel. (+372) 56 90 37 03, getter@ kokteilibaar.ee, www.kokteilibaar.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, sat 15:00 - 03:00. Closed sun. Age restriction 18+. J6EW

ehe maitse gurmee vinoteek This little Italian wine bar/deli, is just off Old Town Square and serves equally as a great place for a deli sandwich, cheese and meat platter or a glass of wine in the evening. Check out their daily specials and be sure to grab a few Italian delicacies or a nice bottle of wine to take home with you. A nice little slice of Italy in the heart of the city.QC-2, Mündi 3, tel. (+372) 53 40 77 37, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 24:00. J

levist väljas Tallinn’s most grotty, seedy and all-around diviest dive bar. Students, Rastafarians and rockers alike congregate in this medieval cellar bar known for cheap drinks and uninhibited fun. Levist is usually people’s last stop of the night after drinking heavily elsewhere.Qb-3, Olevimägi 12, tel. (+372) 504 60 48, [email protected]. Open 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, sat 15:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. J6ENXW protest What started out as a temporary locale in a building due for demolition, has turned into a hotbed of artful dodgers, where the cheap drinks flow and the music is loud and poignant. The posters advertising upcoming events are hand-drawn, the floors are often sticky and the atmosphere is über relaxed. The party hangs on until you do and if you’ve ended up having one too many, you’ll be happy to know that there’s a cheap hostel right next-door.Qb-4, Mere pst 6a, tel. (+372) 660 29 50, [email protected], www.protest.ee. From 14:00 until the party is over. Admission €0 - 6. Age restriction 18+. J6LW

gAy nighTlife Tallinn’s gay scene isn’t a large one by any means, but that doesn’t mean those looking to play with local queers will be left wanting. For a great overview of all the hottest spots and gay-friendly establishments check out the gay tourist information portal tallinn.gaymap.ee. You can also find their map at Tallinn’s Official Tourist Information Centre and many other points around the city. x-Baar If you want to know everything there is to know about the local gay culture, come to Tallinn’s oldest gay bar. The unofficial command centre for the city’s gay scene, X-Baar has acquired a new, three-floored location complete with a small terrace, billiard table and loyal customers (both men and women) keep it lively by piling onto the dance floor.Qe-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 644 01 21, [email protected], www.xbaar.ee. Open 16:00 01:00, Fri, sat 14:00 - 03:00, sun 14:00 - 01:00. Admission free. Age restriction 18+. JBXW 86 Tallinn In Your Pocket

lounge deja vu This super-stylish restaurant/lounge/champagne embassy is a swank place to have a few drinks or grab a nice bite. The two floors, prime location and excellent menu make it all that better. Pop by for the many special events, often involving champagne or lingerie - sometimes both, on Friday and Saturday nights. A great smoking lounge can also be found upstairs and they rent out shisha pipes, plus all the necessary paraphernalia to enjoy this Middle-Eastern pastime.QC-3, Vana-Viru 8, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 55, [email protected], www.dejavu.ee. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue, sun 12:00 - 24:00. Age restriction Wed - sat from 21:00 21+. PJEBXSW

gloria veinikelder The shop section is charming enough, but wind your way to the back rooms to find one of the Tallinn’s most elegant places to enjoy a good Merlot. An expert is always on hand to help you choose from the ca. 2000 wines, cognacs and whiskeys available.QD-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. (+372) 640 68 04, [email protected], www.gloria.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed sun. JIS musi A popular little haunt. This one offers a romantic, old-fashioned front room and an equally cosy, but more modern and colourful back lounge. There’s also a menu of affordable light snacks, mains and delicate desserts.QC-2, Niguliste 6, tel. (+372) 644 31 00, [email protected], www.musi. ee. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed sun. JEW

osteria del gallo nero Personality is everything, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this cosy Italian food shop/café. The owners turn it into lively - albeit tiny - wine bar at night. They’ll mingle with you and may even encourage you to sing along with the stereo. For a full on dining experience with an equally adequate wine list check out their full-on Trattoria on Lai 32.QC-2, rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 646 21 07, [email protected], www.osteriagallonero.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, sat 10:00 - 01:00, sun 11:00 - 24:00. J6BSW paar veini Certainly not as ‘stylish’ or ‘upscale’ as many of its counterparts, ‘Couple of Wines’ caters to the less sophisticated wine-drinker as is evident in their bohemian-like décor and a relatively inexpensive wine-list. This is the place for the kind of people who enjoy a glass of wine, but don’t want the snobbery of what usually goes along with it. QC-3, sauna 1, tel. (+372) 660 30 36, www.paarveini.ee. Open ,Mon, Tue, sun 18:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, sat 18:00 - 03:00. J pan y vino Great wines, friendly service and some tasty but simple food, make this wine bar both popular and a really nice spot to spend a few hours with a small group or a loved one. The Peruvian owner has worked in the industry for years and he takes a lot of pride in making everyone feel at home and comfortable - so much so that you’ll probably want to come back for more.Qb-2, Lai 35, tel. (+372) 521 44 61. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. J6BSW

suite lounge tallinn Not just in Marbella anymore, the Suite Lounge has opened it’s classy establishment in Tallinn as well. Expect the usual and unusual movers and shakers, some fancy cocktails and the décor to be amply supplied with a bevy of Russian Goddesses - and if their tanned skin is any indication, many of them spend ample time in Marbella. At any rate, if your lounging is to be first rate - Suite will sweeten your night.QC-3, pühavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 00, www.schlossle-hotels.com. Open Fri, sat 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon - Thu, sun. JX varBlane This warmer-weather-only, outdoor lounge is open all day but it truly comes alive at night. The food was delightfully tasty, the cocktails refreshing and the service was topnotch last time we visited. DJs spin some excellent tracks on weekend nights and the place stay open as late as thier are customers to serve. Get there early enough in the evening to be able to find a seat, but we certainly recommend it any time of day.QD-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 56 25 64 44, [email protected], www.clubprive.ee/varblane. Open 10:00 - 03:00. JBW

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Shooter bars Loads of bars in Old Town offer shots or shooters but these places seem to specialise in them. Hullumaja Baar It’s pretty craz-e-e-e-e... Hulumaja means ‘nuthouse’ in English and given the low shooters prices, a few hours spent here can certainly end up contributing to a less than sharp mental state. The interior décor is a little lacking, we would have liked to see all manner of freaky medical instruments hanging on the walls, but a smattering of signs, padded walls and shots served in urine cups get the point across.QC-2, Suur-Karja 11, tel. (+372) 56 99 41 60, [email protected]. Open 19:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 06:30. See Facebook page for up-to-date shots prices. Age restriction 18+. JBW Kohvik Noorus We promised some of our friends that we wouldn’t give this place too good a review as we always seem to ruin a good thing by letting too many tourists in on it - but friends don’t pay our bills. Cheap drinks, free flowing shooters and gorgeous girls who might even show you their boobs for a couple of shots, abound at this locale. This place is awesome. There - we said it, and only feel mildly bad about it.QC-2, Lai 10, tel. (+372) 600 53 73, www.kohviknoorus.ee. Open 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J Labor Baar ‘Labor’ which means ‘lab’ in English is pretty much just that - they’ve got loads of experimental shooters on the menu, served in holders containing ten test tubes. If you’d prefer to sip your chemical concoctions, they also offer an explosion of other science-themed cocktails, certain to please any aspiring drunk, even you got an ‘F’ in chemistry. Spending too much time here could be hazardous to your health though. The lower level acts as a nightclub Wednesday through Saturday and entrance is free.QC-2, Suur-Karja 10, tel. +372) 56 99 41 60, [email protected]. Open 17:00 - 06:00. Also at: C-3, Valli 1. Open Wed - Sat 21:00 - 08:00, closed Mon-Tue, Sun. Age restriction 18+. JEXW Shooters As the name quite obviously implies, Shooters is pretty much all about the booze. Add to that its location on one of the busier bar streets in Old Town and the ongoing special of 5 shots for €5.50 and ding-ding-ding, we have got ourselves a winner - or a lot of losers depending on your perspective.QC-2, Suur-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 600 22 20, [email protected], www. shooters.ee. Open Mon, Tue, Sun 17:00 - 04:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. JEW 88 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Clubs Tallinn has quite a bit to offer on the club-scene. From tacky to cutting edge, you’ll certainly find something that fits your needs. The regular admittance age to most clubs is 18+, exceptions are listed at the end of our review. Arena 3 Located a little off the beaten track but not too far from the centre, Arena 3 might easily be one of the biggest clubs in the vicinity of Old Town. The music is bumping and the crowd seemed to consist mostly of Estonians with a handful of foreigners thrown into the mix. We found the atmosphere quite reasonable, the drinks prices affordable. They’ve recently moved to a new location though and it was a little dead when we last visited.QH-4, Tartu mnt. 17, [email protected], www.clubarena3.ee. Open , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. X

Club Baila This little dance club in the heart of Old Town certainly does its best to make their clients feel like they’re relaxing, or partying it up on a tropical island somewhere instead of the somewhat chilly streets of Tallinn. From the moment you enter the door you’re greeted by a tropical aquarium, Latin rhythms and an atmosphere painted in the colours of paradise, as well as the obligatory, large tropical plants one might expect. Even the practically all-blonde female serving staff are decked out in striped sailor-tops, just adding that extra something to the vibe. The cuisine is also ‘topical-getaway’ inspired and the music will make you want to shake your money-makers, or at the very least watch others shake theirs. A huge selection of signature cocktails as well.QC-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 641 04 60, [email protected], www.bailabaila.ee. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. JXW Club Hollywood If there’s one club in Tallinn that’s guaranteed to be jumping, it’s Hollywood, the melting-pot for tourists, and Tallinn’s young and young-at-heart party crowd, usually ends up being a full-house. The dance floor features raised platforms where scantily-clad go-go dancers jiggle to the beat. Having undergone a recent facelift has provided an improved VIP experience and apparently, although we failed to bring our measuring tape, the Baltic’s largest video screen. Wednesday night is ladies night - free entrance for the fairer sex, which pretty much guarantees a good time for the lads. Check website for full programme and VIP details.QD-2,

Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372) 615 51 00, info@clubhollywood. ee, www.clubhollywood.ee. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission €3 - 8. JEX Club Münt The former Spider club has new digs and a new name. Münt, which means both mint and coin in Estonian, probably won’t leave your breath fresh and tasty but certainly will leave more coin in your pocket as they offer up €1 drinks. Expect all the grown-up fun that a place offering such cheap drinks has to offer and a healthy dose of girls wearing the amount of clothing a girl who can only afford €1 drinks might be wearing.QD-3, Müürivahe 22, tel. (+372) 53 58 09 04, [email protected], www.clubmynt.eu. Open Wed, Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Tue, Sun. Admission €9.90. J Club Privé Along with Teater and Vabank, the smaller Privé is considered one of Tallinn’s three trendiest club destinations. Heading here is a bit of a gamble though. If you hit it on the right night, it can be a very cool scene where you’ll hear the region’s or world’s hottest DJs, but on the wrong night it’s just another club full of fog and foreigners. The last time we checked in, the place was indeed packed and we witnessed the electronic sounds of a DJ from Ibiza - good times. Ask about their VIP packages. Friday nights are House nights and Saturday’s are geared to the R’n’B crowd.QD-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 56 25 60 00, [email protected], www.clubprive. ee. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €7 - 14. Age restriction 20+. JEX

Bibabo You say Tomato I say Bibabo - sorry, we couldn’t help it. This small, stand-alone club kind of serves as Vabank’s VIP/ afterhours club and is indeed connected to it by way of a set of stairs that can be found at Vabank’s other entrance. The interior is kind of swank albeit a little odd what with the shag carpets and all. Extensive cocktail list and the drinks prices are actually not too bad given the nature of the establishment. Comfortable smoking lounge as well - with humidor for purchasing some of their fine cigars. QD-2, Vabaduse väljak 10, tel. (+372) 58 02 32 46, info@ bibabo.ee, www.bibabo.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. 23:00 - 24:00 free entrance, 24:00 onwards €8. Age restriction 21+. JX Café Amigo Surprisingly hip and happening for a hotel club, Amigo attracts a good mix of Finnish tourists and local party animals who tend to be slightly older than the typical club monkeys. The big draw here are the live rock and blues bands - the country’s best-loved names - that play here almost nightly. Before bands come one, DJs spin all your favorite pop dance hits from the 70s-90s, and always manage to fill the floor with a cross-generational crowd.QC-4, Viru väljak 4, (Original Sokos Hotel Viru), tel. (+372) 680 93 80, [email protected], www.amigo.ee. Open 22:00 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission €5, Fri-Sat €8. Age restriction 21+. UEXW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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Midnight Munchies f you’re looking for food and drink after the pubs close, don’t expect much of quality. Here are some options. Istanbul Kebab Dying for some döners done right? This kebab place is actually owned by real Turks who, as it turns out also prepare the food. Here you can find mouth-watering pitas stuffed with loads of meat and veggies basted in several thick sauces.QD-4, Estonia pst. 7, tel. (372) 55 59 79 15, [email protected], www.istanbulkebab. ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. BS Loca Open 24hrs Friday and Saturday, Loca isn’t too far of a stumble from Old Town and they offer a little more variety and higher quality than pretty much all of the kiosks and other ‘open-late’ fast-food spots in the centre. The eats are actually quite decent for a fast food place and there are some interesting things on the menu, blending South American, Italian and Middle eastern cuisines. Even a few vegetarian items available. We quite liked their fried chicken and homemade pitas with hummus. Pizzas will set you back about €5, drinks prices are reasonable and they’ve recently opened a shisha-smoking lounge next door, also open late.QE-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 55 51 52 35, [email protected], www.loca.ee. Open 11:00 - 07:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. JS Peetri Pizza Not the best pizza in Tallinn, but certainly hits the spot after some heavy drinking if you happen to be nearby. QRoosikrantsi 23, tel. (+372) 660 26 26, www. peetripizza.ee. Open 24 hrs. S Söögiplats Truly one of Tallinn’s scariest food choices, this allnight, drowned in questionable ‘sauce’ burger window serves up greasy fare to nightclub rejects and local drunks. Some ‘expats’ lovingly refer to it as ‘dirty burger’, but the management claims they are just as healthy if not a healthier alternative to the open-late kebab places. We’ll let you be the judge.QD/E-2, Tatari 1/Vabaduse väljak, tel. (+372) 660 48 47, info@ soogiplats.ee, www.soogiplats.ee. 24hrs. VS Taco Express This little ‘tacos’n’more’ joint offers up some pretty spicy offerings alongside a few decent pizzas and is altogether centrally located enough that your newly acquired ‘jello-legs’ will probably even manage to get you here from most of the establishments offering up liquid courage in the area.QD-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 682 55 08, [email protected], www. tacoexpress.ee. Open 09:00 - 07:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 10:00. €. JSW 90 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Club Riff Going back to its old name - we kind of thought Cathouse was a good one but... They still have some pretty sexy events here, which happen fairly regularly, including topless DJs, go-go dancers and as one poster recently advertised, something called ‘Pu$$y Lazer’. The crowd is primarily Russian, but the Slavs often have a leg up on Estonians in terms of the ‘fun factor’. We had an all right time when we were last here, but for some reason we couldn’t keep our eyes off of the DJ - perhaps it had something to do with her being topless.QC-4, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 508 46 02/(+372) 503 87 20. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon Wed, Sun. Admission €5 - 10. XW Club Studio Young, hip and one helluva queue to get into the place kind of gives you the idea of what Studio is all about. Probably the most popular place at the moment for the 18-25 crowd, Studio actually pumps out some pretty quality music from genres most of us ‘old’ people have never heard of. Dress youthful, drink plenty of Redbull and you’ll fit in just fine.QC-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 58 94 32 61, info@ clubstudio.ee, www.clubstudio.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €10. J

Rock Cafe Built into an old factory building just past the city’s bus station, this minimalist, two-story rock club is decidedly raw and industrial. Live acts - mainly rock but sometimes blues or funk - are booked every weekend, and the place boasts one of the best sound systems of any club in Estonia. Enter the courtyard, go right and up the stairs. Please note that you may find them open only when there are live acts scheduled. See website for details.QI-5, Tartu mnt. 80d, 3rd floor, [email protected], www.rockcafe.ee. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Admission €3 - 9. LEX Taboo In what seems to be a bit of a trend lately, this is another ‘VIP Club’ within a club that has a separate entrance fee to get in. From what we could tell there wasn’t a whole lot ‘taboo’ about this place (perhaps we just didn’t stay long enough to find out), but it was comfortable, had a classy interior and certainly provided a more intimate vibe than the attached Teater Club. They also don’t allow photography inside, I suppose to encourage ‘taboo-ness’. Strict ‘face and dress control’ so make sure to hit the plastic surgeon and the nearest Armani to make sure you make the cut. It has its own smoking lounge so you needn’t mingle with the common people - unless of course you’re into that.QD-2, Vabaduse väljak 5, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 44, www.klubiteater.ee. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €15, also gets you entrance to the main Teater club. JXW

Vabank The beautiful people, the beautiful people. The answer to the question “What is Vabank?” can be summed up fairly easily. Vabank is a large nightclub at the edge of Old Town, housed in what is a former bank where, currently, Tallinn’s beautiful people hang out listening to rather unimaganitive house music and sipping on pricey cocktails. If that is your idea of a good time, so be it. A couple of cool features of note though, the VIP bedrooms off to either side of the dance floor and the private room downstairs in the former vault.QD-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372) 660 52 99, info@ vabank.ee, www.vabank.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €8. From 23:00 24:00, ladies free. Age restriciton 21+. J Venus Rows of classical cherub statues added to an Arabian dessert motif may give the impression of a palace decorator gone mad, but the overriding mood at Venus is of serious partying and flirting by a mixed foreign and Estonian crowd. The last time we popped in it was just around midnight and Venus was already bumping and grinding to full capacity - let’s just say that we’ll certainly be back.QC-4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. (+372) 551 99 99, venus@venusclub. ee, www.venusclub.ee. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Admission €0 - 7. Age restriction 21+. JXW

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Klubi Teater Currently one of our favourites and one of the most interesting and elaborate clubs in Tallinn, Teater takes advantage of its location in an old theatre and certainly provides the clubgoer with a theatrical experience. The décor is 1930’s-inspired, the large cigar lounge is a nice touch as are the ‘showgirls’. Drinks can tend to be a bit pricey, but the overall ambiance, live performances and the opportunity to mingle with an upwardly mobile and more mature crowd makes it all worth it. There’s a swanky VIP lounge for cardholders (can be ordered online) and a club within a club called Taboo entrance costs extra.QD-2, Vabaduse väljak 5, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 44, [email protected], www.klubiteater.ee. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €7 - 15. Age restriction 21+. JEXW

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Panoraam Panoraam is a two story disco a short walk from Old Town that places a heavy emphasis on its schedule of Estonian pop acts. When a good concert is on, it can draw hundreds of teenagers and a few lost and drooling easyJet travellers. Otherwise it’s about as exciting as a hotel lobby in Oslo.QG4, Ahtri 10, tel. (+372) 53 40 38 86, info@clubpanoraam. ee, www.clubpanoraam.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €7-8. ULEXW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife Adult entertainment Don’t expect to partake from afar. If they perform on stage at all, dancers in Tallinn’s striptease clubs typically visit the tables, getting up close and personal to collect tips, usually €3 - 5. While between performances on the stage, other dancers will try to coax you into buying an expensive ‘ladies’ cocktail’, which is essentially a huge tip for sitting with you and making dull small talk. Lately it seems that ‘Gentlemen’s’ clubs have been popping up in every shady corner of Old Town, here we have listed just a few of them - but beware, most clubs will either try to rip you off in one way or another, especially the ones we don’t have listed. Börsi Gentlemen’s Club Börsi is the cheap alternative - that’s cheap in just about every sense of the word. The friendly, low-key, basement venue is popular with a few foreigners in-the-know. If you do acquiesce to splurging for a ‘ladies’ drink’ for your conversation partner, just make sure it’s not the €58 champagne.QC-2, Lai 7, tel. (+372) 641 19 59/(+372) 58 12 00 24, [email protected], www.borsibaar.ee. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8, age restriction 21+. J Virgin Club One of the more ‘exclusive’ establishments in Tallinn catering to a man’s every desire, Virgin Club will ensure that every man who enters their doors will leave very

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Nightlife happy indeed. Beautiful and talented women, tantalising shows and a lush interior are certain to please - the hardto-please. They offer shower shows, girl/girl shows and shows that we can’t even mention. In addition to their exotic dancers, they also have some lovely and talented, ‘erotic’ masseuses on hand, whom are equally talented with their hands - as they are with their bodies. Free transfer from your hotel, send them an e-mail or call for more details.QH-4, Tartu mnt. 29, tel. (+372) 58 48 84 88, [email protected], www.virgins.ee. Open 10:00 - 06.00. D X Club One of the more sophisticated clubs of this type in Tallinn, X Club is favoured by business types and high-end bachelor parties. In addition to the main show room, an Oriental Room dazzles clients with belly-dancing and water-pipes. They’ve even got a great cigar-lounge, Champagne room and offer various relaxing massages. Even the medieval-style torture booth has nice decor. Friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere. A good place for group events like stag nights or political conventions. For an even more thrilling experience you can inquire about their Limousine shows - the most fun on wheels since you took a joyride in your dad’s convertible when you were 16, perhaps even more...QD-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 75, [email protected], www. xclub.ee. Open 21:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 21+. JU

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Hotels Tallinn’s hospitality industry has pretty much reached capacity and the total number of rooms sits at over 7800. For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never been better, and the room rates are also likely to remain competitive. Outside the high-season, don’t be surprised if you’re able to get a room for below the prices we have listed in the guide. A fluctuating price system seems to be the trend at higher-end hotels. Prices listed below include VAT and breakfast, unless otherwise indicated.

Cream of the crop Barons Housed in a gorgeous Old Town bank building dating back to 1912, this business class beauty has managed to retain much of its architectural grandeur both inside and out. From the classy singles to the luxury suite, all rooms come complete with satellite television and internet access for those who like to stay in touch. Among the added bonuses are a bar, restaurant and up-to-the-minute conference facilities.QC/D-2/3, Suur-Karja 7/Väike-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 699 97 00, fax (+372) 699 97 18, barons@barons. ee, www.barons.ee. 33 rooms (singles €85, doubles €119, triples €135, suites €199). Extra bed €26, pets €20, parking €20/24hr. ZJH6UILKDW Cru Set in a 15th-century house on Old Town’s main shopping street, this intimate, boutique hotel offers the quintessential Tallinn accommodation experience - wooden beams, curvy staircases and all. Each of its rooms and suites is a bit different, but all come complete with antique-style furnishings and other old-fashioned touches. Its modern bonuses include an enormous Jacuzzi, two saunas (free in mornings), an Italian café, a wine cellar and children under 12 stay at no extra charge.QC-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 611 76 00, fax (+372) 641 83 57, [email protected], www. cruhotel.eu. 15 rooms (singles €100, doubles €130 - 160, suites €250). Extra bed €25. ZJHGKDW Merchant’s House This beautiful structure is essentially a 14th century merchant’s house turned into a luxury, boutique-style hotel, so don’t be surprised if you get lost in the twists and turns of its corridors. Each of its rooms and suites has been done up with cool, chic decor, tastefully fitted to the historic building. Look for creature comforts like plasma TVs, high-speed Internet and fluffy bathrobes. You’ll also find a ‘relax room’, brasserie restaurant, café and an Ice Bar, where chilly drinks are served in ice-formed shot glasses. QC-2, Dunkri 4/6, tel. (+372) 697 75 00, fax (+372) 697 75 01, [email protected], www. merchantshousehotel.com. 37 rooms (singles €99 130, doubles €90 - 189, suites €155 - 600). Extra bed €26. PZJRIGKDW

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Hotels SYMBOL key P Air conditioning Z Anti-allergy rooms O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old Town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

Nordic Hotel Forum You certainly won’t be able to miss this stylish, brassflanked glass structure which has 137m of cedar trees lining the roof. The hotel’s interior is thoughtfully designed, using natural materials, which ooze warmth and comfort throughout. The premises are outfitted with the latest in communication and entertainment technology, including Skype-enabled rooms. It also boasts a beautiful spa and excellent, Mediterranean restaurant. The Forum’s friendly staff have been carefully selected to make sure travellers who pass through its doors are well looked after - and they certainly are.QC-4, Viru väljak 3, tel. (+372) 622 29 00/(+372) 622 29 99, fax (+372) 622 29 01, [email protected], www.nordichotels.eu. 267 rooms (singles €95 - 150, doubles €95 - 150, suites €155 - 210, business class room €125 - 180, double delux €135 - 190). Extra bed €30, parking €17/night. PJHUIFLGKDCW hhhh Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia Originally built for the 1980 Olympics, this fully-modernized, 26-storey, downtown tower now belongs to the Radisson Blu chain. The long list of facilities here includes a gargantuan conference centre, a fitness centre with a spectacular view. The rooms won’t disappoint either, but for an unforgettable experience, book the top-floor sauna that faces Old Town.QH-4, Liivalaia 33, tel. (+372) 631 53 33, fax (+372) 631 53 25, info.olumpia.tallinn@radissonblu. com, www.radissonblu.com/olumpiahotel-tallinn. 390 rooms (singles €99 - 135, doubles €99 - 145, triples €185 - 230, suites €175 - 1160, family room €185 - 230). Extra bed €24. PHRUFLGKDCW Radisson Blu Sky Hotel The first Radisson hotel in Tallinn has been recently refurbished and naturally they continue to provide their guests with everything one might expect from this international chain and it’s immaculate attention to detail. From the stylish furnishings to little touches like shoe buffers in the corridor they never miss a beat. Other perks here include sweeping views of the city and a free morning sauna. The hotel has a definite business bent with its 10 tallinn.inyourpocket.com

conference rooms and office services, but families will appreciate the fact that kids under 12 stay free.QH-4, Rävala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 682 30 00, fax (+372) 682 30 01, [email protected], www.radissonblu. com/skyhotel-tallinn. 280 rooms (singles €129 - 169, doubles €179 - 219, suites €219 - 269). Extra bed €25. PHRUIFGKDW Savoy Boutique Hotell Every bit as posh as the name implies, this Old Town establishment is a worthy addition to the growing boutique hotel market. Along with very tasteful rooms with old-fashioned touches (antique photos included), Savoy offers lots of little comforts like bathrobes, slippers and free local calls. And if you don’t have your own laptop, they’ll lend you one. Beautiful lobby café.QD-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. (+372) 680 66 88, fax (+372) 680 66 89, [email protected], www.tallinnhotels.ee. 44 rooms (singles €111 - 165, doubles €121 - 203, suites €251 - 307). Extra bed €35, pets €16. JH6UIGKW hhhhh Schlössle The elegance, history and warmth of its three attached Old Town buildings are a major part of Schlössle’s five-star appeal. Over the past decade this luxury hotel has played host to musicians and heads of state, but even if you aren’t rock or royalty, the helpful and friendly staff will treat you as such. A beautiful medieval lobby, a crackling fireplace and a world class restaurant invite you to linger and stay just one more night.QC-3, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 00, fax (+372) 699 77 77, [email protected], www. schlossle-hotels.com. 23 rooms (singles €165 - 240, doubles €185 - 260, suites €300 - 710). Extra bed €95, pets €32. PZJHUIGKDW hhhhh St. Petersbourg Aristocrats in the 19th century would stay at the St. Petersbourg when visiting Tallinn, likewise 21st-century travellers looking for luxury Old Town accommodation can find it here at the city’s oldest, continuously-running hotel. Completely renovated to keep pace with newer rivals, the hotel treats its guests with modern comforts like deluxe art-deco furnishing and plush bathrobes, all the while retaining a strong sense of old world charm.QC-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628 65 00, fax (+372) 628 65 65, stp@schlossle-hotels. com, www.hotelstpetersbourg.com. 27 rooms (doubles €125 - 175, suites €235 - 375). Extra bed €65, pets €32. ZJH6UIGKDW hhhh facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Swissôtel Tallinn This lavish hotel has bragging rights as Tallinn’s tallest building and needless to say some of room-views are fabulous. Inside you’ll find all the things you’d come to expect from the luxury chain, including conference facilities, a high-end spa, state-of-the-art technology and a highly trained staff catering to your every whim. Swissotel is all about the little extras such as special bathrobes and bedspreads for the kids, iPod docking stations in the executive rooms and Lavazza espresso machines in every room. Even if you don’t have the pleasure of staying here, be sure to investigate some relaxing opportunities at the Pürovel Spa or enjoy a delightful buffet in Café Swiss.QH4, Tornimäe 3, tel. (+372) 624 01 01, reception.tallinn@ swissotel.com, www.swissotel.com/tallinn. 238 rooms (singles €120 - 295, doubles €120 - 295, suites €320 2295, family room €218 - 323). Extra bed restricted to grand rooms only €115. PHUFLKDCwW Telegraaf This full-service hotel in a restored 19th-century former bank turned communications building has facilities that include a wellness spa, a Russian-style restaurant and an unheard-of Old Town luxury: underground parking! The ultra comfortable rooms are more spacious than typical for an Old Town hotel, you might however be tempted to spend a little bit too much time in the bathrooms decorated with ‘French’ post cards’.QC-3, Vene 9, tel. (+372) 600 06 00, fax (+372) 600 06 01, info@telegraafhotel. com, www.telegraafhotel.com. 86 rooms (singles €155 - 330, doubles €175 - 350, suites €350 - 1250). Extra bed €50. PJHRUILGKDCwW hhi hhh Three Sisters Hotel This luxury hotel built into three famous medieval houses on the end of Pikk tänav provides the quintessential Tallinn experience. The top-notch establishment offers large rooms decorated in a striking blend of modern and antique styles. Flat-screen TVs can be found alongside oldfashioned bathtubs and hidden staircases. One suite even sports a grand piano. The staff will cater to your every whim here and almost every request a guest might have will be taken care of. The world-class Bordoo restaurant and cosy, cellar vodka bar are just icing on an already delicious cake. Beware though, if you do check-in, you may never want to leave.QA/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 00, fax (+372) 630 63 01, [email protected], www. threesistershotel.com. 23 rooms (singles €188 - 268, doubles €214 - 294, suites €508 - 946). Extra bed €55, pets €20. PJHR6UILGKW hhhhh June - July 2014

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Upmarket Bern Hotel Bern, which is tucked into a courtyard that’s conveniently across from a grocery store, aims to bring its guests the best in Swiss-style hospitality with its friendly and professional staff. Due to size restrictions the 50-room establishment hasn’t got many perks, but it does have a 24hour bar, and breakfast is served in their petite, in-house restaurant.QC-3/4, Aia 10, tel. (+372) 680 66 30, bern@ tallinnhotels.ee, www.tallinnhotels.ee. 50 rooms (singles €48 - 93, doubles €58 - 104, de Luxe €172). Extra bed €35, pets €16. PJ6UGKDW Euroopa Located in the port, they offer all the modern conveniences you’d expect from a four-star hotel with a few extras such as your very own guard-lamb on every bed. The 185 room hotel caters primarily to the business set, offering 8 conference rooms, wireless internet throughout the premises and includes a sauna and fitness centre which are both complimentary for guests. The 41 business rooms also come equipped with balconies that have views overlooking the bustling port area.QG-4, Paadi 5, tel. (+372) 669 97 77, fax (+372) 669 97 95, info@ euroopa.ee, www.euroopa.ee. 185 rooms (singles €65, doubles €85, triples €111, suites €192). Extra bed €26, pets €20, parking fee for car €10/24hr, motorcycle €5/24hr. PZH6UFLGKDW hhhh Gotthard Residents The historic sister to the Olevi Residents and the St. Olav hotels, this, Tallinn’s newest accommodation site is certainly a little odd in terms of layout and definitively geared towards the Russian market in terms of style. It sits directly across the street from the famous Three Sisters hotel and you wouldn’t even know that there’s a hotel there other than the three flags above the entrance - in fact these two details are probably the only way you might find it as it has no sign. All in all not a bad place to stay, the renovations have been done rather well and the rooms seemed cosy. QA-3, Pikk 66, tel. (+372) 611 80 80, fax (+372) 611 80 81, [email protected], www.tallinnhistoricalhotels. com. 62 rooms (singles €90, doubles €103, triples €129, quads €155, suites €320, apartments €550). Extra bed €26. Pets €19. ZJ6UW Imperial Part of the medieval Old Town wall runs right through this small, luxury hotel, and designers have wisely integrated it into the 21st-century interior to preserve the historical feel of the building. The Imperial’s management have aimed for a four-star level of quality, and with its bright rooms, beautiful sauna hall and elegant cheese restaurant (Estonia’s only), they got there. The size of the double rooms varies. Be sure to ask for one overlooking the neighbourhood’s picturesque cobbled streets. QB/C-2, Nunne 14, tel. (+372) 627 48 00, fax (+372) 627 48 01, [email protected], www. 96 Tallinn In Your Pocket

imperial.ee. 32 rooms (singles €134, doubles €160, suites €205 - 390, family room €243). Extra bed €32. PJHRUILGKDW Meriton Old Town A nice combination of modern comfort and historic surroundings are what’s offered in this tourist-class hotel at the edge of Old Town. The main building with its zigzagging corridors dates from the 19th century and houses somewhat small, but cheerfully decorated guest rooms. More interesting is the lobby, which contains part of the old city wall and the round, outer edge of the neighbouring 15th-century horse mill. Try the U Nataši here for some fast and authentic Russian cuisine.QA-3, Lai 49, tel. (+372) 614 13 00, fax (+372) 614 13 11, oldtown@ meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. 41 rooms (singles €90 - 120, doubles €108 - 120). Extra bed €22. JRUILGKW Old Town Maestro’s For those who like to be in the middle of the action, this six-storey hotel located at the epicentre of Tallinn’s Old Town bar scene is a classy choice. In keeping with the era of the hotel’s facade, the décor here was given a subtle touch of the 1930s (think Agatha Christie’s Hercule Poirot). Don’t leave without checking out the picture-postcard view of Toompea from the top-floor sauna.QC/D-2, Suur-Karja 10, tel. (+372) 626 20 00, fax (+372) 631 33 33, [email protected], www.maestrohotel. ee. 23 rooms (singles €102, doubles €115, suites €225). ZJH6GDW Olevi Residents It’s hard to believe that what looks like an ancient, narrow, Old Town dwelling could house a seven-storey hotel complete with restaurant and sauna, but Olevi manages to do just that. Rooms are a little dated and the layout is confusing, but all in all a fairly comfortable choice. Be sure to ask about the substantial discounts for groups and individuals.QB-3, Olevimägi 4, tel. (+372) 627 76 50, fax (+372) 627 76 51, [email protected], www.tallinnhistoricalhotels. com. 49 rooms (singles €90, doubles €103, quads €155, suites €320, apartments €550). Extra bed €26, pets €19. ZJHGKW Original Sokos Hotel Viru Occupying an enviable spot on what’s generally considered the very centre of Tallinn, the large, Finnish-managed Original Sokos Hotel Viru offers an unbeatable combination of amenities and location. Aside from several classes of spiffy rooms, a conference centre, two respectable restautallinn.inyourpocket.com

rants and a popular nightclub, the hotel also has direct access to the huge Viru shopping centre, which can satisfy even the deepest of retail cravings. Rooms are furnished in a colourful, friendly style.QC-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 93 00, fax (+372) 680 92 36, viru.reservation@sok. fi, www.sokoshotels.com. 516 rooms (singles €90 - 175, doubles €110 - 195, suites €240 - 325, family rooms €130 - 215, double deluxe €150 - 235). Extra bed €20, pets €10. PJHR6ULGKDW Park Inn by Radisson Central Tallinn This spiffy downtown hotel has a wide range of rooms and the same helpful services you’d expect from a hotel in its class. The spacious rooms come tastefully decorated with a modern flair. Children are well catered for in family rooms and the lobby café, which has an adjacent children’s play area. The hotel also has a beauty salon.QG-4, Narva mnt. 7c, tel. (+372) 669 06 90, fax (+372) 669 06 91, info. [email protected], www.parkinn.com/hotelcentraltallinn. 245 rooms (singles €40 - 100, doubles €40 - 100, triples €40 - 100, suites €100 - 300). Extra bed €20, pets €10. PH6UIGKDW PK Ilmarine Just a hop across the street from Old Town, this hotel brings a touch of class to the renewed port area The PK Ilmarine spoils its guests with spacious suites, charming standard rooms and an airy atrium/café. Par for the course in Estonia, free WIFI is available in all rooms and mini-offices are available for business guests. Onsite gym and a relaxation area are also certainly big plusses. Kids under 12 stay free.QA-3, Pőhja pst. 21b, tel. (+372) 681 88 78, fax (+372) 681 88 79, booking.ilmarine@ pkhotels.eu, www.pkhotels.eu. 105 rooms (singles €52 - 109, doubles €69 - 119). Extra bed €26, pets €26. HR6ULGKW St. Olav Hotel Located a short jaunt from Town Hall Square and named for the Norwegian King St. Olaf, this recently renovated 15th century building now plays host to a hotel. The fourstorey historical structure contains a labyrinth of hallways and richly decorated rooms presenting some interesting and very old architectural details. The staff are friendly and useful, however you may need a map to find your room.QC-2, Lai 5, tel. (+372) 616 11 80, fax (+372) 616 11 81, [email protected], www.tallinnhistoricalhotels.com. 106 rooms (singles €90, doubles €103, quads €155, suites €320, apartments €550). Extra bed €26, pets €19. PZJHR6UIGKW Tallink City Hotel The Tallink ferry line made absolutely no compromises on quality when they installed their sparkling, mirrored hotel in downtown Tallinn. The full-service facility provides all the right touches, from conference rooms and chic restaurant to candies on the pillows. Finnish guests in particular will appreciate the nightclub and free morning sauna. Rooms are done up in a bright, sharp, contempofacebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

rary style, with the higher priced ‘de Luxe’ doubles providing a lot more space.QG-4, Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 630 08 00, fax (+372) 630 08 10, [email protected], www. tallinkhotels.com. 332 rooms (singles €68 - 195, doubles €73 - 200, triples €98 - 225, family room €98 - 225). Extra bed €25. PTHRUFGKDW The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn A trend setter with its too-cool style and creature comforts, The von Stacklberg Hotel Tallinn offers well-outfitted and comfortable rooms just steps away from Toompea. They have several classes of rooms available, but our personal favourite happens to be the larger ‘Zen’ rooms - which offer extra perks such as slippers, bathrobes and aromatherapy amenities to spoil your inner child. The level of service here is also top-notch.QH-3, Toompuiestee 23, tel. (+372) 660 07 00, fax (+372) 660 18 88, reserv.vsh@ uhotelsgroup.com, www.uhotelsgroup.com. 45 rooms (singles €30 - 75, doubles €35 - 85, triples €50 - 99, zen single €225 - 295, zen double €110 - 305). Extra bed €25, pets €10. PZHR6ILKDCwW Ülemiste This brilliantly modern hotel next to Tallinn’s quiet airport has so many services you might not want to leave. Aside from the fitness centre, two saunas, European-style restaurant and conference rooms, there’s a comfortable night bar and a BBQ terrace. Rooms on upper floors have a magnificent view of the lake. Despite the airport-side location, it’s a fairly convenient place to stay, since buses leave from the front of the hotel and bring you into town in about 10 minutes.QI-6, Lennujaama tee 2, tel. (+372) 603 26 00, fax (+372) 603 26 01, sales@ylemistehotel. ee, www.ylemistehotel.ee. 128 rooms (singles €99 - 115, doubles €119 - 135, suites €170 - 350). Extra bed €25. PZHRUIFLGKDW hhhh Vana Wiru It’s hard to imagine that a five-storey hotel with such a grandiose marble lobby - complete with an elevated walking bridge and Italian restaurant - could be tucked into this bustling part of Old Town, but a quick peek at Vana Wiru will remove all doubt. In addition to offering guests an unbeatable location and pristine rooms, the hotel caters to business travellers with in-room WIFI connections. Find the main entrance around the corner off Müürivahe.QC-3, Viru 11, tel. (+372) 669 15 00, fax (+372) 669 15 01, vanawiru@baltichotelgroup. com, www.vanawiru.ee. 82 rooms (singles €128, doubles €153 - 179, suites €237 - 288). Extra bed €32. JHRUILGKDW June - July 2014

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Mid-range Braavo And now for something completely different! Located just at the edge of Old Town, this bright and colourful lodging is designed with families and youth in mind. The rooms are spacious, cheerful and come at an affordable price. Don’t expect too many extras, but if you’re looking for a place to rest your head in a central location this hotel will certainly do. If you fancy a swim or a workout, the attached Reval Sport complex complete with four pools, sauna and a water park will keep you entertained. QB-3, Aia 20, tel. (+372) 699 97 77, fax (+372) 641 23 17, [email protected], www.braavohotel.com. 38 rooms (singles €35 - 65, doubles €35 - 95, family room €83 - 100). Extra bed €18. JRUFLGi DCW City Hotel Portus A fairly new hotel just opposite the Passenger Port’s D-Terminal, Portus is a boon for economical travellers, offering decent rooms and services at a no-nonsense price. The friendly, slightly goofy interior makes it inviting, as do its Café Retro and free internet terminal in the lobby.QG-4, Uus-Sadama 23, tel. (+372) 680 66 00, fax (+372) 680 66 01, [email protected], www. tallinnhotels.ee. 107 rooms (singles €35 - 62, doubles €38 - 68, family room €122). Extra bed €22, pets €16. H6ULGKDW hhh City Hotel Tallinn In what seems to be a new trend in the city, the Unique Hotel has converted some of their rooms to a no-frills concept. You can expect the same quality and modern rooms as before, just without the costly extras, such as room-cleaning and towel changes. These of course can be purchased for an additional charge along with other services. We think it’s a great option for those on a budget, who don’t want a ‘budget’ room. Check-in is right next door at the von Stackelberg.QH-3, Paldiski mnt. 3, tel. (+372) 660 07 00, fax (+372) 660 18 88, [email protected], www. uhotelsgroup.com. 17 rooms (singles €30 - 60, doubles €35 - 65, triples €50 - 80). Extra bed €15, pets €15 - 20. Breakfast €8. 6ULGW Economy Restoration has brought the stylish, mint-coloured, 1920s look back to the hallways and common areas of this historic hotel that overlooks the busy train station and market area. Rooms, by contrast, are completely modern with all of the amenities a tourist or business traveller would expect. The colourful, brightly-lit restaurant can be reserved for groups and there’s a pretty decent Mediterranean-style eatery in the same building.QB-1, Kopli 2c, tel. (+372) 667 83 00, fax (+372) 667 83 01, [email protected], www.economyhotel.ee. 40 rooms (singles €22 - 30, doubles €35 - 65, triples €65 - 95, family room €65 - 95). Extra bed €20. Pets €5. 6LGKW 98 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Go Hotel Shnelli This starkly modern, seven-storey hotel is attached to Tallinn’s newly revamped railway station, which happens to have a great location just outside the Old Town walls. All rooms are done in a simple, no-nonsense style with a slight railroad theme. The ‘superior class’ rooms on the upper floors have beautiful views of Toompea hill. Train buffs should book a room in the slightly cheaper ‘standard class’ rooms overlooking the tracks. Try the restaurant and day spa.QB-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 01 02, fax (+372) 631 01 01, [email protected], www. gohotels.ee. 137 rooms (doubles €60 - 75, apartments €130, family rooms €100). Extra bed €21, pets €13. PJH6ULGKwW Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn Within a brief walking distance from Old Town, the fivestorey Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn is a bright and modern hotel. All rooms offer air conditioners, coffee/tea-making facilities, mini-bars and free WIFI, In addition to that, the 17 spacious ‘Zen’ rooms and 7 ‘Zen’ suites include, flat-screen televisions, computers and Jacuzzis. Check out the smart restaurant with its lunch specials. In the summer they also have a spacious outdoor courtyard patio.QH-3, Endla 23, tel. (+372) 666 48 00, fax (+372) 666 48 88, [email protected], www. uhotelsgroup.com. 74 rooms (singles €50 - 130, doubles €55 - 140, triples €70 - 165, zen single €65 - 145, zen double €70 - 155, zen suite €85 - 180). Extra bed €25, pets €20. PHR6UFLGKDwW L’Ermitage A quiet, restful place to hermit yourself away - just as the French name implies - the centrally-located L’Ermitage pampers its guests with in-room creature comforts like minibars, flat pannel TVs and internet connections. Some rooms even have views of Toompea Castle, in case you lose yourself in introspection and forget what country you’re in. For a truly gigantic bathroom, be sure to request a ‘superior’ double.QH-3, Toompuiestee 19, tel. (+372) 699 64 00, fax (+372) 699 64 01, reservations@ lermitagehotel.ee, www.lermitagehotel.ee. 90 rooms (singles €55, doubles €60, suites €130, superior €80). Extra bed €24. ZJHRUILGKDW Meriton Old Town Garden Tallinn’s newest hotel has everything you could possibly want in an Old Town establishment - including two entrances on entirely different streets. The hotel blends perfectly together the charms of the old world with the conveniences we find handy in our modern times. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

In typical Old Town fashion, no two rooms are exactly the same, which just adds to the charm. You’ll also find the mouth-watering cakes of Café Mademoiselle on the premises, as well as the Estonian Dining Room and a pretty nifty public toilet, complete with an ancient well. QB-2, Pikk 29/ Lai 24, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, fax (+372) 667 70 01, [email protected], www. meritonhotels.com. 50 rooms (economy €35 - 90, standard €50 - 110, Bella Garden €130). PJHKW Metropol This hotel in the happening tourist area near the port has long been popular with Scandinavian weekenders. Rooms are respectably furnished in dark wood, and the upper rooms offer some decent views. Other pluses include the smart restaurant, karaoke bar, and various special packages.QB-4, Roseni 13, tel. (+372) 667 45 00, fax (+372) 667 46 00, [email protected], www.metropol.ee. 149 rooms (doubles €42 - 95, suites €85 - 165). Extra bed €21, pets €21. H6UGKDW Pirita Convent Guesthouse Administered by the nuns of the Swedish St. Bridgettine order, this modern guesthouse in their Pirita convent naturally has a pious feel. The spacious rooms are decorated in comfortable, subdued whites, and some have windows overlooking the ancient ruins of the old St. Bridgette convent, next door. A common room, with TV and fridge, is available to guests.QMerivälja tee 18, tel. (+372) 605 50 00, fax (+372) 605 50 06, pirita@osss. ee, www.birgittaguesthouse.ee. 20 rooms (singles €37, doubles €51, triples €68, quads €87). UILi NGW Rocca al Mare Not exactly central, but if you’ve a car or don’t mind riding public transport, this hotel, located a stone’s throw from a major shopping mall, the zoo and the open air museum might just be the place to lay your head. Rooms are clean, relatively affordable and they provide all the amenities you could want - some with a sea view.QK-7, Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 11, tel. (+372) 664 59 50, sales@roccahotels. ee, www.roccahotels.ee. (singles €44 - 55, doubles €55 - 59, suites €135). Extra bed €21. HKDCw St. Barbara More affordable than many other centrally located hotels in its class, the St. Barbara delivers the same high quality, but without certain extras like a lobby bar and sauna. The rooms here have been recently ‘refreshed’ and are quite comfortable, many featuring high ceilings and enormous windows. Be sure to ask about the interesting legend surrounding the saint from which the hotel got its name.QH-3, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00 40, fax (+372) 640 00 41, [email protected], www. stbarbara.ee. 53 rooms (singles €73 - 117, doubles €79 - 126, triples €107 - 172, suites €107 - 215, family room €107 - 172). Extra bed €25, pets €13, parking €5/night. H6GKW hhh facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Susi A popular stop for tour groups, Susi makes up for its edge-of-town location by offering all the services you could possibly require on-site. It has everything from a complete business centre to a trusty hair and beauty salon. The hotel itself is stylish and interestingly decorated with local artwork. All rooms are non-smoking and there are hypo-allergenic rooms as well as facilities for the disabled. Four of the suites come with a private sauna. This establishment also features a large restaurant and 4 conference rooms, which can accommodate up to 90 people. Take tram N°2 or 4 to the end and walk 200m.QPeterburi tee 48, tel. (+372) 630 32 00/(+372) 630 33 00, fax (+372) 630 34 00, [email protected], www.susi.ee. 99 rooms (singles €58, doubles €68, triples €90, suites €135). Extra bed €20, dogs €25, cats €16, breakfast included. PZHR6UGKDwW hhh Taanilinna Management have lent one of Tallinn’s medieval names to this fittingly old-fashioned looking hotel in the heart of Old Town. The décor here sports deliberately quaint retrotouches, while all the fixtures are modern and even on the elegant side. Great location for the price.QC-3, Uus 6, tel. (+372) 640 67 00, fax (+372) 646 43 06, info@taanilinna. ee, www.tallinnhotels.ee. 20 rooms (singles €44 - 85, doubles €44 - 99, suites €85 - 119). Extra bed €22. Pets €16. JH6LGW Tallink Express The smart-looking structure 300m from the passenger port is home to a sparklingly modern and orderly hotel that caters to visitors who want easy access to both the Old Town and to Helsinki-bound ships. Guests are treated to free wireless internet, and should consider trying out the hotel’s famed soup buffet.QA-4, Sadama 9, tel. (+372) 667 87 00, fax (+372) 667 88 00, [email protected], www.tallinkhotels.com. 163 rooms (singles €50 - 195, doubles €55 - 200, triples €80 - 200, family room €80 - 200). Extra bed €25, pets €14. THR6UGKW hhh June - July 2014

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Hotels

Hotels

budgeT

sPA hoTels

Although there are loads of hostels around town, the free-spirited often communal living feel of them is not for everyone - especially if you are looking for something a little more private. Here are some alternatives.

Each of the spa hotels below offers accommodation as well as treatment packages and day spa services. Prices here are for accommodation only, check their websites for details on their package deals.

dzingel This biggish hotel in the beautiful Nőmme district is a good budget option for anyone who doesn’t mind a bit of a commute to the centre. Renovations have brought the rooms up-to-date, and the hotel comes fully outfitted with restaurant, sauna, and respectable conference facilities - eight meeting rooms in all. Take bus N°5 to the P. Kerese stop.QMänniku tee 89, tel. (+372) 610 52 01/(+372) 610 53 00, fax (+372) 610 52 45, [email protected], www.dzingel. ee. 330 rooms (singles €39 - 59, doubles €49 - 69, triples €59 - 69, suites €83). extra bed €17, pets €13. HR6ULGKDW

kalev spa hotel & water park This enormous, state-of-the-art facility brings Estonia’s spa phenomenon to the heart of the city. In addition to tidy guest rooms, complete spa packages are available, as are a health and wellness centre, a fitness centre and a restaurant with a view of the water park. The park includes three waterslides and a 50m swimming pool, Tallinn’s largest, and along with the gym and a morning sauna is available free of charge for hotel guests. You can also book one of 3 private VIP saunas that come in different sizes and all include a jacuzzi and a free access to the water park. Inquire about the two different types of family rooms also available.Qb-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 00, fax (+372) 649 33 01, kalevspa@ kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee. 100 rooms (singles €85, doubles €125, suites €220, family rooms €125 - 190). extra bed €26, pets €13. TJHR6Ui FLGKDCW

hotel g9 Just a five-minute walk from Old Town, this small hotel on the third floor of an office building is a good pick for location and quality. Although this establishment sometimes feels more like a hostel, the rooms are modern and spotless.Qg-3, gonsiori 9, tel. (+372) 626 71 30, fax (+372) 626 71 32, [email protected], www.hotelg9.ee. 23 rooms (singles €29 - 37, doubles €37 - 63, triples €49 - 71). extra bed €12. breakfast €4. R6LGKD lilleküla Just a 15-minute walk to Old Town, this newly-built hotel provides immaculate, cheerful rooms, personal service and even its own little restaurant. Higher priced rooms have one large double bed as opposed to two small twins. Take trams 3 or 4 to the Vineeri stop.QI-3, Luha 18b, tel. (+372) 627 11 22, [email protected], www. lillekulahotel.ee. 30 rooms (singles €36 - 39, doubles €45 - 55, triples €59 - 69, family room €59 - 69). extra bed €13, pets €13. 6W marta guesthouse Located in a renovated traditional Estonian wooden house, Marta is a little ways from the centre, but still accessible. With a vintage-style interior and 6 guestrooms they offer the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of it all. The double rooms come complete with a small kitchenette (fridge, dishes, kettle, cooker and coffee-maker). In the ‘Attic Chamber’ you’ll be provided with a coffee-maker, kettle and all rooms provide free coffee or tea. In the high season it’s recommended to book in advance as they usually fill up quite quickly. Transfer service, rental of bicycles and secure parking are available for a fee. See website for additional info.QJ-3, Marta 8, tel. (+372) 502 40 50, [email protected], www. martaguesthouse.weebly.com. 6 rooms (singles €19, doubles €27). extra bed €15. ZILW 100 Tallinn In Your Pocket

oldhouse guesthouse This conveniently located guesthouse features clean hall showers and a nice communal dining room with a fireplace and TV set. Guests have full use of the kitchen. Reception is open 24h. Be sure to ask about the private apartments available (see apartment rental).QC-3, uus 22, tel. (+372) 641 12 81, [email protected], www.oldhouse. ee. (singles €28, doubles €42, quads €76, place in dorm €14). extra bed €15. breakfast €4. JRIGDW poska villa This turn-of-the-century villa located on the edge of the beautiful Kadriorg park offers up a chance for some peace and quiet. The rooms are on the small side but very comfortable and certainly full of colour. Home-made breakfast is served by friendly staff and the parking, unlike elsewhere in Tallinn, is free.QH-5, J. poska 15, tel. (+372) 601 36 01, fax (+372) 601 37 54, [email protected], www.hot.ee/ poskavilla. 8 rooms (singles €42, doubles €50 - 55, suites €63). extra bed €16, pets €16. PH6LGW salzBurg This hotel, located just past the Tallinn border has a style that is Austria über alles. Although there are no mountains or Fräuleins singing in the hills, the rooms are comfortable, affordable and have everything needed for a good night’s rest. The restaurant offers Austrian-themed dishes involving elk and wild boar, however if you’re not content to eat someone else’s trophy, the hotel will arrange hunting trips for guests. Qpärnu mnt. 555, Laagri, tel. (+372) 650 39 65, fax (+372) 650 39 00, [email protected], www.salzburg.ee. 53 rooms (singles €32 - 53, doubles €38 - 63). extra bed €15, pets €10, caravan €15. PH6UILGKW valge villa In a modern, three-storey house in the middle-class Kristiine area is a family-run establishment offering some of the most impressive accommodation in town. All rooms have hardwood floors, phones, TVs, shower/WC, fridges and high-speed internet connection, and a few even have fireplaces, kitchens and antique furniture. The proud and eager hosts claim to have the most comfortable beds in Tallinn. Take bus N°17 or 17A to the Räägu stop, or trolleybus N°2, 3 or 4 to the Tedre stop and watch for signs.QKännu 26/2, tel./fax (+372) 654 23 02, [email protected], www.white-villa.com. 10 rooms (singles €25 - 38, doubles €33 - 48, triples €48 - 60, quads €80 - 100, suites €33 - 80, apartments €48 - 80). extra bed €16, pets €6.40. breakfast €5.80. R6UILGDCW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

meriton grand conference & spa With some fantastic views onto Toompea, a full-service spa, several eateries and sprawling conference facilities, this hotel certainly provides an ‘all-inclusive’ experience for its guests. The steel and glass structure houses some of the most state-of-the-art spa facilities in the city, including a salt chamber, low temperature sauna, heated beds and even something called a ‘mushroom’ for the kids. The conference facilities can hold up to 380 attendees and are also decked out in the latest gadgetry to give presentations a lasting impression.QH-3, paldiski mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, [email protected], www.meritonhotels.com. 465 rooms (singles €70 150, doubles €80 - 170, suites €280, family room €175, presidential suite €460). PTHUFLGKi DCW pirita spa Originally built for the 1980 Olympic Games, the Pirita SPA was renovated and reopened in 2003 as Tallinn’s most sprawling hotel and spa complex. It has ample space for its several shops, a beauty centre, restaurant, casino, pharmacy and optician, to say nothing of its extensive health facilities and several classes of guest rooms. A number of treatments are available, and use of the sauna and 25m swimming pool are free for guests. Take bus N° 1A, 8, 34A or 38 from bus station under Viru Centre to Lillepi stop.Qregati pst. 1, tel. (+372) 639 86 00, fax (+372) 639 88 21, reservation.topspa@tallink. ee, www.tallinkhotels.com. 267 rooms (singles €45 - 85, doubles €50 - 85, triples €75 - 170, family room €75 - 170). extra bed €25, pets €32. THR6Ui FLGKDCW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Lavendel Spa Hotel

spa hotel lavendel Located in the ever-growing Viimsi area, just north of the city limits - the recently renovated Lavendel’s supermodern lobby hides a nice new café and conference room. The smartly decorated rooms are fully equipped with all the amenities one could hope for and guests are invited to pamper themselves at the full-service beauty salon or check out the attached sports-centre.Qsõpruse tee 9, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 603 59 00, fax (+372) 603 59 01, info@ spahotellavendel.ee, www.spahotellavendel.ee. 50 rooms (singles €40 - 60, doubles €45 - 65, triples €82, family room €95). extra bed €16, pets €24. ZHi 6FGKW tallink spa & conference Gigantic, bare-breasted sirens flanking the doors and a bright, groovy lobby bar are your first clues that this place is far bolder than your average spa hotel. Apart from its signature Aqua Spa, spa packages and guest rooms - some of which overlook the decadent pool bar in the hotel’s central atrium - the high-tech establishment near the passenger port offers six conference rooms, a Fidel cigar bar and a beauty salon.Qg-4, sadama 11a, tel. (+372) 630 10 00, fax (+372) 630 10 10, spahotel@ tallink.ee, www.tallinkhotels.com. 275 rooms (singles €78 - 195, doubles €83 - 200, triples €108 - 245, family room €108 - 245). extra bed €25. PTHi RUGKDCW June - July 2014

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Hotels Hostels Due to the nature of hostels, they seem to come and go from year to year and new ones are popping up all the time. Likewise they also close down quite frequently and or change their names. Although not a complete list, here we have listed some of the more important and or centrally located ones. For a complete list checkout www.hostelworld.com. 16 Euro Hostel If it’s price and location you’re after, then this recycled, former hotel turned hostel will probably suit you just fine. The furnishings are kind of mix and match, but it’s overall quite clean, just don’t expect to get a good nights sleep here on the weekend as it also sits smack dab in the middle of several bars, a nightclub and a gentlemen’s club. We suggest wearing earplugs and that problem just might go away.QC-4, Roseni 9, tel. (+372) 501 30 46, info@16eur. ee, www.16eur.ee. (singles €16 - 25, doubles €25 - 32, triples €38 - 50, quads €50 - 56, dorm bed €10). Extra bed €16. Breakfast €6. J6DW Alur Hostel Touted as being the ‘biggest’ hostel in Old Town, the Alur has everything you’d want in a hostel plus an awesome courtyard where you can bbq in the summer - or winter if that’s your thing. They’ve even got brand-spanking-new showers, clean modern rooms and organise loads of activities, some perhaps even involving showers, for those who get bored fairly quickly. Great place for travellers, people who like showers, groups of friends and those who like to shower with friends. Staff are available 24/7 just in case you need anything.QB-2, Lai 20, tel. (+372) 646 62 10, [email protected], hostel.alur.ee. 15 rooms (sin-

camping / caravan These establishments cater to the adventure crowd, offering caravan slots (with hook-ups), places to pitch a tent and other services. Pirita Harbour Caravan Camping This popular spot is next to the sea, near the beach and an easy bus ride to the centre.QRegati pst. 1, tel. (+372) 639 88 01 (24hrs guard), sadam@ piritatop.ee, www.piritatop.ee. 80 caravan places €14, 40 tenting places €3, sauna €25 an hour. 6FLKDCW Tallinn City Camping Located near the sea, this site offers everything from sauna and washing machine to grill and matress rental. Prices include use of shower, WC, internet and drinking water.QF-6, Pirita tee 28, tel. (+372) 613 73 22, [email protected], www.tallinncity-camping.ee. 30 caravan places: caravan €14, tent €14, car parking €7, pets €2. Open from May 22 to September 15. 6LKDW 102 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Hotels gles €15 - 25, doubles €21 - 40, triples €28 - 42, quads €40 - 56, place in dorm €12). Breakfast €3. JIW Euphoria This hostel-esque happening, brought to you by the good folks over at the ‘Hostel With No Name’, is one of the larger places in town. It’s kind of a unique concept that centres around four apartments on different floors and a large common room where everyone can hang out, play the guitar, bang on bongos or if the spirit moves you, maybe even paint your own mural on the wall. Each floor has its own kitchen and toilet, one of them even has a bath! Light breakfast included.QH-3, Roosikrantsi 4, tel. (+372) 58 37 36 02, [email protected], euphoria.traveller.ee. Prices €10.50 - 38/person. RLW FeelGood Hostel This decidedly modern hostel just a short walk from Old Town has the feeling more of an apartment rental than that of a traditional bongo-drum, guitar, hippy, artsytype place. The communal feeling is still there though and naturally all of the amenities one would expect from a hostel in today’s high-tech world. Private rooms as well as dorm facilities are available depending on if you prefer to travel solo or in a small group.QH-3, Kaarli pst. 11, tel. (+372) 609 24 00, [email protected], www. feelgoodhostel.com. (doubles €40, quads €48, place in dorm €10). W Knight House Located surprisingly enough on ‘Knight Street’ and in the building that actually housed the former order of Teutonic Knights, this establishment is more like an apartment rental place than a typical backpacker’s hostel. They have a stylish common room, private rooms and all sorts of other amenities too extensive to list.QD-2, Rüütli 16, tel. (+372) 631 14 44, [email protected], www.knight-house.eu. 7 rooms (singles €23 - 27, doubles €32 - 40, triples €42 - 48, quads €44 - 54, place in dorm €11 - 13). JW Mahtra Long ago this hostel in the basement of a blockhouse in the Lasnamäe residential district was one of the only cheap choices in town. Nowadays, with so many better places in the centre, it’s probably best left to sports groups who need a cheap place to hole up. Mahtra offers passable rooms, every two of which shares a WC/Shower. A kitchen is available for guest use, and laundry service is available. Morning sauna included. Take bus N°35 from the post office to the Mahtra stop.QMahtra 44, tel. (+372) 621 88 28, fax (+372) 658 67 65, [email protected], www. mahtra.ee. 20 rooms (singles €27, doubles €27, triples €34, quads €40). Extra bed €10, breakfast €3, pets for free. R6FLDW OldHouse Hostel Bright, fluffy rooms make this nicely renovated, Old Town establishment almost too nice to be called a hostel. Comtallinn.inyourpocket.com

mon areas like the hallways, TV room and guest kitchen are just as spiffy. For those without a laptop, there’s access to an internet connected computer free of charge.QB-3, Uus 26, tel. (+372) 641 12 81, [email protected], www. oldhouse.ee. Reception open 24hrs. 12 rooms (doubles €42, triples €59, quads €76, place in dorm €14). Breakfast €4. JRLNGW Old Town Backpackers Owners insist it’s ‘not for tourists, only for travellers’, so put on your best hippy-backpacker attitude if you plan to stay here. The centrally-located hostel on Uus Street is basically a dorm with six beds. It boasts a huge guest kitchen, sauna, laundry facilities, Internet-connected computer and WIFI. QC-3, Uus 14, tel. (+372) 517 13 37, tallinnoldtownbp@ gmail.com, balticbackpachers.wordpress.com. 6 beds €10 - 12/person. JDW Olematu Rüütel Olematu Rüütel, is situated in the historic district of Toompea. They offer up an indoor pool, sauna and each spacious and simply furnished room includes free Wi-Fi and a desk. The hostel’s tour desk can give you advise on various excursions and other ‘must-sees’ in Tallinn. Local and international meals can be had in their restaurant. Free private parking is available upon request.QC-1, Kiriku põik 4a, tel. (+372) 631 38 27, [email protected], www.olematu. ee. (doubles €50 - 69). JLKDW Red Emperor Hostel This Australian-owned, bar/hostel is kind of unique in Tallinn and is certainly geared towards the free-thinking, beard-loving kind of traveller who is all about the party and free-love - or so we’ve been led to believe. Probably not the kind of place you’d want to rest your head if quite and privacy is what you’re looking for - but then again, not everyone is looking for those things. See website for full details.QC-3, Aia 10 (in the courtyard), tel. (+372) 608 73 87, [email protected], www. redemperorhostel.com. 9 rooms (singles €29, doubles €35, triples €39, quads €45, place in dorm €9). Breakfast €3. JW

international traveller camaraderie. Basically a collection of open bunk rooms, it’s cheap, central and friendly, and the foreign backpacker who staff it organise video screenings nightly pub crawls and some funky tours both in and out of Tallinn. Free sauna, kitchen, computer and WiFi. Laundry for a fee. Looking to stay in town a little longer? They’ve got rooms for that too.QB-3, Olevimägi 11-1, tel. (+372) 644 02 98, [email protected], www. tallinnbackpackers.com. 5 rooms (5 Total rooms ). 34 dorm beds €8/bed. No breakfast. JRIGW The Monk’s Bunk The Monk’s Bunk consists of several dorm-style rooms with bunk-beds to crash on. Certainly a bit more community oriented than some places, the ‘Bunk’ does however pride itself in being a place where you can get some peace and quiet every once and a while - at least as much privacy as you can get in a room filled with snoring strangers. They also have a smoking room and spontaneous parties happen in the bar on premises.QE-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 636 39 24, [email protected], www. themonksbunk.com. 65 rooms (triples €48, quads €52, place in dorm €9 - 12). JDW Viru Backpackers Boutique Hostel Tallinn Backpackers’ smaller Old Town facility has the same fun, backpacker-run feel as its main hostel, but it’s built in a former office space where rooms offer more privacy. Computer, WiFi, kitchen and laundry are available, and guests are welcome to visit the Olevimägi location to groove with the folks there as well.QC-3, Viru 5, tel. (+372) 644 60 50, [email protected], www.virubackpackers. com. 10 rooms (singles €25, doubles €48, triples €48, quads €48, suites €60). JRDW

Tabinoya - Tallinn’s Traveller House The first and only Japanese-owned hostel in the Baltics. Tabinoya means ‘Travellers House’ and their aim is to make this a comfortable, home-away-from-home while spending your days and nights in this medieval city. Just a short saunter to Town Hall Square, it’s centrally located, clean, friendly and has all the amenities you’d want from a hostel. Breakfast is also included in the price and sauna rental is a mere €4 per hour. How hot is that?QC-2, Nunne 1-1, tel. (+372) 632 00 62, [email protected], www. tabinoya.com. 6 rooms (singles €30 - 35, doubles €40 - 50, triples €51 - 57, dorm room €13 - 18). Sauna €4/ hour. JGDW Tallinn Backpackers Hands down this hostel is Tallinn’s best for that feeling of facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

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Hotels

Hotels Classic Apartments Classic Apartments offers a handful of spotless, nicely fixed-up apartments in Old Town and the city centre. All come fully equipped with modern kitchens (microwaves included), washing machines, cable-TV, and everything else you’ll need for a comfortable stay. All apartments also have free WIFI for your laptop. Free airport transfers.QD-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 56 99 65 07, [email protected], www. tallinnapartment.eu. 9 apartments €42.80 - 63.90. Extra bed €15. JLNGW

Apartment rental Short-term apartment rental is a good option for anyone staying more than a few days - you can often get a beautiful, Old Town apartment for the same price you’d pay for a cramped double room in a tourist class hotel. Apartments come fully outfitted with dishes, towels, etc. Prices are usually per apartment (not per person) and drop substantially the longer you stay. The prices we’ve listed here are for a single night and do not normally include breakfast unless stated otherwise. Check the individual apartments’ websites for full details on their rates. Apartment 24 Offering several conveniently located apartments in Old Town and centrally, Apartment24 provides all the amenities to make your stay in Tallinn a home away from home. All of the apartments come complete with WIFI, kitchens and one of them even has a sauna. See website for apartment locations and details.Qtel. (+372) 55 68 53 51, fax (+372) 601 23 74, [email protected], www. apartment24.ee. 5 apartments €50 - 70. 6W

Erel Apartments & Residences This large, highly experienced firm manages serviced apartments concentrated in two Old Town buildings - Raekoja Residence at Town Hall square and Vene Residence at Vene street as well as Sakala Residence, located a little further from Old Town for those who want a more quiet neighbourhood. Guests can stay anywhere from one day to one year, but rates are better the longer the contract. The company will even pick you up at the airport. Prior booking by credit card is required.QH-1, Paldiski mnt. 26a, tel. (+372) 663 16 40/(+372) 524 80 99, erel@ erel.ee, www.erel.ee. 19 apartments: standard class starting from €76, business class from €112. Extra bed €35. Pets €35. JR6GW Goodson & Red Tallinn Apartments Goodson & Red apartments are all fully furnished, well serviced and cosy apartments. All are situated in Old Town or the city centre, making this option a good choice for location, quality and price. Interiors have a warm look, and the staff are always ready to help guests out with information and arrange other services like airport pick-ups and dropoffs. Breakfast isn’t included in the price, but an Old Town café is never far. Also available for medium and long-term rentals. See their website for more information.QC-3, Jõe 5, tel. (+372) 666 16 50/(+44) 20 32 86 16 50, fax (+372) 666 16 51, [email protected], apartments. goodsonandred.com. 20 apartments from €73 - 143. PRILGDW

Briston Apartments All Briston’s apartments are conveniently nestled in the same great, Old Town building, which has its own reception desk and parking lot. The one- and two-room apartments still sparkle from their 2005 construction, though they’re all decorated in a classy, old-fashioned style that gives them warmth. More expensive two-rooms have better views.QD-2, Harju 7, tel. (+372) 699 96 70/(+372) 699 09 00, [email protected], www.briston.eu. 11 apartments €71 - 105. Extra bed €22. Breakfast €8. JRLK 104 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Ites Apartments Geared towards travellers staying from one night to several months, this collection of apartments around the Old Town and centre offers fully equipped apartments, most with satellite TV and internet access. Some even have saunas, so ask when you reserve. Car rental service also available.QD-2, Harju 6 (office), tel. (+372) 631 06 37/(+372) 56 21 71 14, [email protected], www.ites.ee. 11 apartments from €80. JRD Kullassepa Residence The fantastic Old Town location is the main selling point here - the apartments are right next to Town Hall Square! Furnishings and sizes vary, but most tend towards an oldfashioned look, and all are fully-equipped, washing machine included. A computer can also be added by arrangement, and for an extra charge, breakfast can be brought up from the restaurant downstairs.QC-2, Kullassepa 11, tel. (+372) 623 20 55/(+372) 53 44 44 64, kullassepa@ residence.ee, www.residence.ee. 8 apartments €60 95. JR6ILDW Luscher&Matiesen Guesthouse Although they only have one apartment, the views of Tallinn and the fact that it can sleep up to ten people are definite pluses. At 140 square metres, it also boasts a large kitchen, sauna and a decent selection of wines, champagnes an other refreshments in the mini-bar. Become a fan of their Facebook page for full details.QC-2, Toom-Rüütli 10, tel. (+372) 56 25 20 91, guesthouse@ luschermatiesen.com. Apartment €120 - 180. JDW OldHouse Apartments In addition to its guesthouse, OldHouse also offers a few two-, three-, four- and 6-person apartments ranging from small affairs with antique furniture to a modern split-level complete with living room and fireplace. All are located near the guesthouse itself, with its hard-to-beat Old Town location.QC-3, Rataskaevu 16, tel. (+372) 641 14 64, [email protected], www.oldhouse.ee. 20 apartments €49 - 199. JILDW Pikk 49 Residence These large and elegant luxury apartments are only a few minutes walk from Town Hall Square but just far enough away to provide the right amount of peace and quiet. Each suite is comfortable and stylish blending new design aesthetics with old world details. Every apartment comes fully furnished with a kitchen, flat screen TV, washing machine and WIFI. We quite liked the antique-quirkiness of the upper floor apartments best, however because of the climb, they are probably best left for those without a pacemaker.QB-3, Pikk 49, tel. (+372) 509 00 10, info@ vitelium.ee, www.vitelium.ee. 8 apartments €99 - 199. J6GW

which can be rented anywhere from a few days to six months. All apartments are fully equipped with kitchens and TVs.Qtel. (+372) 661 62 91, rasastra@online. ee, www.bedbreakfast.ee. 7 apartments €51 - 165. LNG Romeo Family Apartments This family run establishment offers the same level of quality and personalised service as many of the luxury hotels in town. Apart from very convenient (mostly Old Town) locations, each of these 1-4 room apartments has fully-outfitted kitchens, bathrooms, etc. Some have internet connections. Most apartments are located in the same building. If you’d rather just have a room, these are available as well.QD-2/3, Suur-Karja 18, apt 38, code 38, tel. (+372) 644 42 55, fax (+372) 660 95 88, [email protected], [email protected], www.romeofamily.ee. 13 rooms (singles €35 - 45, doubles €38 - 58, triples €58 - 74, quads €75 - 110, apartments €45 - 116). Extra bed €16. Breakfast at apartments €8. JLGW Villa Hortensia The guesthouse in the newly refurbished Old Town ‘Master’s Courtyard’ shares its locale with a gallery, artisans’ workshops and a popular chocolate café. It mostly caters to visiting artists, but anyone with a reservation is welcome. The stylish doubles are like tiny, split-level apartments, each with its own mini-kitchen and loft bedroom, while the suite even has its own balcony. There’s no reception, so phone ahead for keys.QC-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 641 80 83/(+372) 50 46 113, [email protected], www. hoov.ee. 6 rooms (singles €45, doubles €65, suites €90 130). Extra bed for kids €15. JGW

Rasastra Apartments The same people who arrange bed and breakfast-style homestays also offer several centrally located apartments tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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June - July 2014

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Shopping - Authentic Estonian Although we haven’t made a final count of all the souvenir shops and boutiques in Old Town there appear to be thousands of them. This makes it pretty hard for the tourist, not to mention locals, to find souvenirs, fashion, art and other handicrafts that are truly Estonian - either made here or conceived and designed here. Listed below you can find a number of shops, products and boutiques that specialise in bringing authentic Estonian goods to the public. Beware, the majority of souvenir shops around town sell things not made in Estonia or that don’t even remotely represent things that are unique to this country.

Shopping - Authentic Estonian

gifTs & souvenirs estonian goods (hää eesti asi) Everything for sale in this large souvenir shop was either designed or produced in Estonia. From food and drink to handicrafts - it can all be found here.QC-3, Viru 23, tel. (+372) 56 98 63 84, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 20:00. J estonian handicraft emBassy (eesti esindus) This souvenir shop features different sections devoted to various handicrafts such as leather goods, local delicacies, wood items etc. QC-3, Viru 3, tel. (+372) 640 40 37, www.eestiesindus.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00. J estonian handicraft house QC-2, pikk 22, tel. (+372) 631 40 76, info@ crafts.ee, www.crafts.ee. Open 09:30 - 18:30, sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-1, Lühike jalg 6, tel. 641 17 08. Open 10:00 - 18:00, sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, Viru Centre, tel. 610 13 32. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J

commerciAl gAlleries And ArT shoPs Bogapott Not only is it a cosy little café (see Cafés), it‘s also an artist‘s studio, where you can see the craftsmen at work and a gallery/shop where you can view and purchase their unique hand-crafted, earthen wares. C-1, pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Open 10:00 21:00. J domini canes Stained-glass artwork designed and crafted on-site.QC-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. (+372) 644 52 86, hoffmann. [email protected], www.glassart.ee. Open 12:00 17:00. JN navitrolla galerii One of Estonia’s most popular painters creates whimsical art that is both fun and colourful. Originals, prints and limited edition giclées are all available for purchase here.Qb3, sulevimägi 1, tel. (+372) 631 37 16, navi@navitrolla. ee, www.navitrolla.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, sat 10:00 17:00, sun 11:00 - 16:00. J tauno kangro gallery Estonia’s top sculptor has a wide variety of works for sale, including large and miniature sculptures as well as pastel drawings. Here you can find exquisite nudes, game animals and mythological pieces at reasonable prices. For larger items, international shipping also available.Qb-3, uus 20, tel. (+372) 641 10 02, info@skupltuuristuudio. ee, www.skulptuuristuudio.ee. Open during business days 09:00 - 17:00, most of the time. It’s adviseable to call ahead though. J 106 Tallinn In Your Pocket

helina tilk Joyful hand-painted porcelain, glass and ceramics by an Estonian artist.QC-2, rataskaevu 6, tel. (+372) 646 42 80, info@ helinatilk.com, www.helinatilk.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, sat 10:00 - 17:00, sun 11:00 - 15:00. Also at: D-2, Lühike jalg 5, tel 631 33 28. Open 09:00 - 18:00, sat 10:00 - 17:00, sun 11:00 - 15:00. Also at: B-3, Pikk 41, tel 641 45 15. Open 10:00 - 18:00, sat 10:00 - 17:00, sun 11:00 - 15:00. J

medievAl wAres kramBude This great medieval shop, brought to us by the folks at Olde Hansa, features authentic wares such as handblown glass, hand-crafted pottery, leather items and even spirits. All of the bits and pieces here have been recreated based on countless hours of research and are replicas of items used by actual townsfolk in the days of yore. The items are even functional, which is pretty cool in our books. QC-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20, reserve@ oldehansa. ee, www. oldehansa.net. Open 10:00 21:00. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

katariina gild Various artisan shops/workshops, including a glass studio, textile studio and hat workshop among others. You can witness the creation of the products on site.QC-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, [email protected], katariinagild. eu. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed sun. N loomelood Glass art and ceramics by Estonian designers.QC-3, VäikeKarja 4, www.minudisain.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, sun. J pühavaimu post An assortment of angel figurines, watches, candles and postcards - stamps and a postbox onsite for convenience. QC-2, pühavaimu 2, www.eestiesindus.ee/kauplused/ puhavaimu-post/. Open 09:30 - 17:30. J sepa äri Wide range of products from Estonian blacksmiths.Qb-3, Olevimägi 11, tel. (+372) 680 09 71, [email protected], www. ross.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, sat 10:00 - 17:00, sun 10:00 - 15:00. J wood & Bug shop (puu ja putuka pood) Wooden items from buttons to bowls, also linen and woollen goods.QC-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 644 01 26. Open 10:00 - 18:00. J

jewellery a-galerii Estonian-designed jewellery and fashion accessories.QC2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 646 41 01, [email protected], www.agalerii.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed sun. J juveel QD-3, pärnu mnt 8, tel. (+372) 644 42 16, myyk@juveel. ee, www.juveel.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 10:00 17:00. Closed sun.

kniTs & linen jolleri handicraft chamBer (käsitöökamBer) QD-3, Müürivahe 11, tel. (+372) 648 45 88, info@ jollery-bunny.ee, www.jollery-bunny.ee. Open 10:00 18:00. J norrison Estonian quality knitwear and design.QC-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 33, [email protected]. Open 10:00 20:00. Closed sun. J rewill All the handicrafts in this tiny shop can be made to order. QC-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 33 62, [email protected], www.rewill.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, sun 10:00 - 16:00. J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

esToniAn fAshion designers a.g.a.n. - as good as new Both a second-hand boutique and a showcase for young Estonian designers specialising in creations made from reclaimed materials.Qrotermanni 5/roseni 10, tel. (+372) 56 49 56 57, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 11:00 - 18:00. BonBon lingerie Estonia’s very own brand of stylish and sexy underwear oozes femininity.Qe-2, pärnu mnt 21, tel. (+372) 642 20 42, [email protected], www.bon.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed sun. fankadelik Fresh designs by young and hip Estonian designers.QC3, Vana-Viru 6, [email protected], www.fankadelik. com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, sun 12:00 - 18:00. J ivo nikkolo QC-2, suur-Karja 14, tel. (+372) 641 90 57/(+372) 641 90 58, [email protected], www.ivonikkolo.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 10:00 - 17:00, sun 11:00 - 16:00. J kv couture kristina viirpalu QC-2, suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 641 10 77, kristinadesign@ mac.com, www.kristinadesign.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00, sun 11:00 - 15:00. J les petites disaini- ja moeButiik Small local design shop featuring creation from over 80 Estonian designers, jewellers and handicrafters.QC-3, Müürivahe 28, tel. (+372) 58 17 68 31, [email protected], www. lespetites.ee. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed sun. J linette Estonian-made lingerie.QD-3, Müürivahe 17, tel. (+372) 648 54 00, [email protected], www.linette.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00, sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed sun. J namarie Original works by young Estonian fashion designers.QC3, Müürivahe 21, tel. (+372) 53 43 07 56, wenderol@ hotmail.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, sun 12:00 - 18:00. J nu nordik Clothes and more from young Estonian designers.QD-2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 93 92, [email protected], www.nunordik.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed sun. süda Boutique This boutique represents several brands including local Estonian designers Ave Tamme, Julia Havanskaja, Pohjanheimo as well as luxury English fashion brand Mulberry.QC-2, suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 646 75 35, [email protected], www.suda.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00, sun 12:00 - 16:00. J June - July 2014

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Shopping There are plenty of opportunities to spend money shopping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozens of souvenir, antique and speciality stores. Within Old Town the main shopping streets are Viru, Müürivahe, SuurKarja, Väike-Karja and Kullassepa. The most central shopping centre is Viru Centre home also to the Kaubamaja department store. Kaubamaja and Stockmann offer everything from electronics to cosmetics as well as large clothing sections. Other smaller malls include the Foorum Centre, the unique Rotermanni Kaubamaja and the Solaris Centre.

Antiques Aarded Featuring works of art and antiques of interest to both the serious or novice collectors.QD-2, Rüütli 13, tel. (+372) 56 66 66 11, [email protected], www.aarded.ee. Open 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J Antiik & Kunst Tiny, but packed with finds.QC-2, Dunkri 9, tel. (+372) 644 09 23. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Idla Antiik One of the more upscale antique shops in Old Town, they actually have two branches and a great selection online. Excellent variety.QB-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 646 40 60, [email protected], www.idla.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J

food Gourmet Club Deli and café.QC-3, Viru 17, kauplus@ vertigogourmet.ee, www.vertigogourmet.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. JS Rimi QC-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 644 38 55, www.rimi.ee. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Also at: C-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. (+372) 618 05 00. Open 08:00 - 23:00. J Selver QB-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 619 24 40, www. selver.ee. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Stockmann QH-4, Liivalaia 53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39, fax (+372) 633 95 56, www.stockmann.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ULK Tallinna Kaubamaja QD-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667 31 00, tallinn@ kaubamaja.ee, www.kaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00 22:00. 108 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Bookshops

Gifts & Souvenirs

You won’t find a great selection of books in English or other foreign languages in Tallinn, but you won’t be left without any reading material either. Rahva Raamat has the widest selection of English language novels. Allecto has a good variety of speciality books and textbooks.

Here we have listed just a few that specialise in various gift items. See the ‘Authentic Estonian’ section for souvenirs that truly represent this country.

Rahva Raamat Probably the best stocked in Estonia for English books, with titles throughout the store.QC-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 644 66 55, www.rahvaraamat. ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Also at: D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. 644 36 82. Open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Slothrop’s The only bookshop in Old Town that specialises in English and other foreign-language literature.QB-3, Pikk 34, [email protected], www.slothrops.ee. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J

alcohol Please note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohibited from 22:00 until 10:00. Bestwine Wine shop. QC-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 622 89 76, [email protected], www.bestwine.ee. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Sun. J Drink Beer Shop The largest selection of international beers in Estonia can be found here.QD-3, Müürivahe 15, tel. (+372) 641 24 27, www.drinkbaar.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. J Go Alko QC-3, Aia 5b, tel. (+372) 55 62 56 05. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Liviko Alcostore Estonia’s largest and longest running alcohol producer runs a few of its own stores stocked, naturally, full of their own products and imported wares at competitive prices.QC-3, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 683 77 45, [email protected], www.alcostore.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00 Also at: G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 683 77 40. R-Alko Large assortment of wine, liquor and beer with a convenient location.QC-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. (+372) 641 98 70, www.alko.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00 Also at: C-3, Vana-Viru 14. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Also at: C-4, Viru 27. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

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Commercial galleries and art shops Allagallery QC-2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 641 55 01, allagallery@ hotmail.com, www.allagallery.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Galerii 2 Jewellery, leather-wares and ceramics that are closer to works of art than just mere handicrafts.QC-1/2, Lühike jalg 1, tel. (+372) 641 83 08, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J

Shopping

Galerii 36 Paintings, prints, sculpture and stained glass can be found here.QC-1/2, Lühike jalg 8, tel. (+372) 644 16 58, [email protected]. Open 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Galerii-G QD-2, Vabaduse väljak 6, tel. (+372) 644 89 71, info@ galeriig.ee, www.galeriig.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Margarita & Art (Baltic Amber) This chain of amber shops arguably have the widest assortment of prehistoric golden resin items and jewellery in Tallinn.QC-2, Vanaturu kael 10, tel. (+372) 641 89 03, www. amber.ee. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Also at: C-2/3, Viru 9, tel. 642 70 19. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-3, Viru 21, tel. 600 41 53. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Dunkri 3, tel. 641 87 35. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 2, tel. 646 45 58. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel 642 05 14. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel 646 65 91. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J Nukupood Handicraft dolls & toys.QC-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 644 30 58, www.nukupood.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J Paleocity Fossil Shop Fossils, rocks, gems and more.QC-3, Aia 4, tel. (+372) 56 82 17 69, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. J Raevangla Käsitöökelder QC-2, Raekoja 4/6, behind Town Hall, tel. (+372) 644 64 88. Open 10:30 - 16:30, Sun 10:30 - 16.00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. J What to Give? - Gift Shop Hand-made souvenirs.QD-3, Müürivahe 28, tel. (+372) 552 26 25, www.midakinkida.ee/en/. Open 11:00 19:00. J

Jewellery

Hindricus anno 1393 QC-2, Lühike jalg 2, tel. (+372) 660 52 03, merike. [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J

Aurum Classic jeweller.QC-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 644 98 74, [email protected], www.aurum.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J

Hobusepea Galerii QB/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 528 53 24/(+372) 627 67 77, [email protected], www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex. htm. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. J

Gold Market QC-2, Kullassepa 11, tel. (+372) 644 40 01, goldmarket@ hot.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J

Kunstiaken QC-3, Vene 20, tel. (+372) 646 42 09, penelope.pood@ gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. J

Sangla juveelisalong Diamonds and gems and gold - oh my!QC-2, Kullassepa 7, tel. (+372) 644 23 13, [email protected], www.sangla. ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Lühikese Jala Galerii Beautifully displayed ceramics, glass and textiles.QC-1/2, Lühike jalg 6, tel. (+372) 631 47 20, [email protected], www.hot.ee/lgalerii. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Time & Diamonds QC-3, Viru 23, tel. (+372) 631 33 77, time_diamonds@ balticimports.ee, www.boutiquetimediamonds.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J June - July 2014

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Rotermann Quarter

Shopping Find the shopping and entertainment district

in the area G-3 on the city centre map; also partially visible in the area B/C-3 on the Old Town map.

VIRU SQUARE 30m

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stradivarius Stradivarius offers an extensive range of fashion collections and accessories for a young, modern woman. QC-4, rotermanni 8, tel. (+372) 664 50 13, [email protected], www.stradivarius.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 11:00 - 18:00.

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Basiilik pizza & pasta Delicious pizzas and pastas in the heart of Tallinn. All-you-can-eat pizza and soup buffet, Mon - Fri from 11:30 - 15:00 - for a mere €5.50 you can enjoy 3 different pizzas and 3 different soups. See full review in the restaurant section on p..48. Q g-3, Hobujaama 5, in Coca-Cola plaza, tel. (+372) 56 50 99 91, [email protected], www.basiilik.ee. Open 11:30 - 23:00.

PASSANGER PORT 300m

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reede Reede offers apparel, footwear and accessories from brands like Norse Projects, Wood Wood, Henrik Vibskov, Carhartt, Cheap Monday, Nike, Dr. Martens, Adidas, New Balance, Nixon, Makia, Supra, Insight and Qwstion.Qb-4, rotermanni 5, tel. (+372) 660 95 70, [email protected], www. reede.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 11:00 - 18:00.

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alter ego This stylish, Mediterranean-style eatery ranks as one of the best Spanish restaurants outside of Spain and was selected in 2013 as one of the top 15 restaurants in the Baltics. Great service and a fantastic, as well as affordable wine-selection make it a great spot for lunch or dinner. See full review in the restaurant section on p.53. Qb-4, roseni 8, tel. (+372) 54 56 03 39, [email protected], www.alterego. ee. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, sat 12:00 - 23:00. 6ULSW

platz Making it onto the coveted list of ‘50 Best Restaurants’ of Estonia for 2013, certainly makes Platz worth checking out. The food here is fresh and creatively prepared. See full review in the restaurant section on p.57.Qb-4, roseni 7, tel. (+372) 664 50 86, [email protected], www. platz.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, sat 11:00 - 23:00.

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pull and Bear This brand is targeted at style-conscious youngsters, offering great quality for a reasonable price. QC-4, rotermanni 8, tel. (+372) 664 50 16, pb.rotermanni. [email protected], www.pullandbear.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 11:00 - 18:00. 110 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Shopping

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Bershka Bershka offers the latest fashionware, accessories and footwear for adventurous young people. QC-4, rotermanni 12, tel. (+372) 664 50 05, [email protected], www.bershka. com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 11:00 - 18:00.

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

premium fashion outlet 8 This fashion outlet store offers discounts up to -70% on featured brands such as Cerruti, Valentino, Ferre, Trussardi, Dsquared, Versace, Moschino and a whole lot more.Qb-4, roseni 10, tel. (+372) 666 76 50. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 11:00 - 18:00.

fAshion sTores esprit QC-2, raekoja plats 4, tel. (+372) 644 63 56. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sun 10:00 - 17:00 Also at: C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 13 58. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J guess QC-4, rotermanni 5 (rotermanni quarter), tel. (+372) 666 77 62, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 10:00 - 18:00 Also at: D-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 15 12. Open 09:00 - 21:00. h&m Qg-3, Narva mnt. 1, www.hm.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. jack & jones QC-3, Viru 13/15, De La gardie shopping centre, tel. (+372) 631 47 66, www.jackjones.com. Open 10:00 20:00, sun 10:00 - 17:00. J lindex QC-3, Viru 13/15, De La gardie shopping centre, tel. (+372) 615 55 40, www.lindex.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 10:00 - 17:00. J marc & andré Unique and sophisticated swim-wear, beachwear accessories, lingerie and nightwear.Qg-4, Narva mnt. 5, tel. (+372) 600 44 23, [email protected], www. marcandandre.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 10:00 19:00. mario melani italian fashion design QC-2, rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 645 00 98, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J replay Qg-3, Narva mnt. 5, Foorum centre, tel. (+372) 664 04 31. Open 11:00 - 20:00, sun 11:00 - 18:00. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

sfäär This stylish little shop located inside a restaurant features brands such as Acne, Nudie Jeans, Edwin, Barbour, Red Wing Shoes, Aesop, Rivieras, New Balance, James Perse, Havaianas, Barton Perreira, Levi’s Vintage, Woolrich etc. and a good selection of fine wines.Qb-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 56 99 22 25, [email protected], www.sfaar.ee/store/. Open 12:00 - 21:00. K

studio t Featuring brands such as Armani Collezioni, Ralph Lauren, Paul Smith, Moncler, Armani Jeans, Jacob Cohen, Dondup and many more.QC-4, Lai 36 (women’s clothing), tel. (+372) 641 19 46, www.studiot.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed sun. Also at: E-2, Pärnu mnt. 25 (men’s clothing). Open 11:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00, sun closed. J waggon paris QH-2, pärnu mnt. 42, tel. (+372) 602 31 50, info@ waggon.ee, www.waggon.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed sun. weekend max mara QD-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 620 02 36, maxmara@ maxmara.ee, www.maxmara.ee. Open 10:30 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed sun. J zara QC-4, Viru Centre, Viru Väljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 13 66. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

vinTAge annimari vintage clothing Qpikk 9, [email protected]. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, sun. J foxy vintage QC-2, pikk 9, tel. (+372) 53 48 30 81. Open 12:00 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, sun. J oh so retro QD-2, suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 53 58 43 37, [email protected]. Open 12:00 - 19:00, sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, sun. J sireen vintage Boutique QD-3, Müürivahe 22 (yellow door), tel. (+372) 55 97 52 75, [email protected]. Open on Thursdays 12:00 - 19:00, other times call ahead. J June - July 2014

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Shopping kArjA QuArTer There are many fine and upscale boutiques located in and around Old Town, however, the area between Pärnu mnt. and Harju street, centred around Suur-Karja and Väike-Karja streets (area C/D-2/3 on the map) is fast becoming the ‘luxury’ shopping destination in Tallinn. Although not, yet, officially called the ‘Karja Quarter’, it’s a name we’ve come up with to classify this district. Below you’ll find a list of many of the high-end brands, jewellers and boutiques to be found in this area. See the centre-spread (p. 50-51) for a map of the area, along with a list of our advertisers. Brandy melville Hip and trendy women’s clothing for the young and young at heart.QC-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 622 91 75. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed sun. J BurBerry QD-3, pärnu mnt.12/suur-Karja 20, tel. (+372) 631 33 24. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00, sun 11:00 - 16:00. J d’Boiss High-end, ready-to-wear and custom men’s footwear. QD-3, suur-Karja 20, tel. (+372) 605 64 60, info@dboiss. com, www.dboiss.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 10:00 18:00, sun 11:00 - 16:00. J emporio armani QD-3, pärnu mnt. 10/ Väike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 628 22 72. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00, sun 11:00 - 16:00. J fashion house QVäike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 627 01 97, www. fashionhouse.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed sun. J freywille This famous Viennese jewellery brand offers up unique and exclusive creations for the discerning buyer.QD-3, pärnu mnt. 12, tel. (+372) 602 50 50, tallinn@freywille. com, www.freywille.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat, sun 11:00 - 17:00. J gerry weBer A dynamic lifestyle brand for women by a famous German fashion house.QC-3, Valli 4, tel. (372) 648 0666, [email protected], www.gerryweber.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sat 10:00 - 19:00, sun 11:00 - 17:00. J hugo Boss QD-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 06 10, hugoboss@ apranga.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00, sun 11:00 - 16:00. J

luisa spagnoli QD-3, Väike-Karja 7, tel. (+372) 647 70 03, info@ luisaspagnoli-estonia.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 18:00, sun 11:00 - 16:00. J max&co. QD-3, pärnu mnt. 12, tel. (+372) 640 40 06. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sun 10:00 - 16:00. J maxmara QD-3, pärnu mnt. 8, tel. (+372) 631 05 14, maxmara@ maxmara.ee, www.maxmara.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed sun. J nude QD-3, pärnu mnt.10/ suur-Karja 23, tel. (+372) 622 92 02, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00, sun 11:00 - 16:00. J persona QD-2, Harju 5, tel. (+372) 57 81 04 09, personatallinn@ gmail.com, www.personamr.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat, sun 10:00 - 17:00. J süda Boutique This boutique represents several brands including local Estonian designers Ave Tamme, Julia Havanskaja, Pohjanheimo as well as luxury English fashion brand Mulberry.QC-2, suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 646 75 35, [email protected], www.suda.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, sat 11:00 - 17:00, sun 12:00 - 16:00. J

shoes aBc king QC-3, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 13 85, [email protected], www.abcking.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. salamander QC-3, Viru 5, tel. (+372) 644 43 62. Open 11:00 - 18:00, sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed sun. vivian vau shoe salon The exquisite shoes at Vivian Vau are imported mainly from Italy and Spain and are crafted from the finest materials and leathers. Sizes from 34 - 45.QC-2, rataskaevu 2, tel. (+372) 641 64 40, [email protected], www. vivianvau.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed sun. J

jacadi Children’s clothing.QC-3, Väike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 601 02 31, www.jacadi.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, sat 11:00 17:00, sun 11:00 - 16:00. J 112 Tallinn In Your Pocket

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Shopping denTisTs

Viru Keskus • Viru väljak 4 • 10111 Tallinn, Estonia • virukeskus.com

Baltic medical partners Private clinic.QH-3, Tartu mnt. 32, tel. (+372) 601 05 50, [email protected], www.bmp.ee.

SHOES ARE ON TOP

tallinna hamBapolikliinik Large, state clinic. Call here in an emergency.Qe-1, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 612 12 00, www.hambapol.ee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, sat 09:00 - 16:00, sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Shopping center Viru Keskus turns your view of a shoe world upside down.

beAuTy cAre shoPPing cenTres kristiine centre A large, modern mall just outside the centre.QH-2, endla 45, tel. (+372) 665 03 41, www.kristiinekeskus.ee. Open 10:00 21:00. grocery store open 08:00 - 23:00. ULKW rocca al mare centre Now one of the largest shopping malls in Estonia and although it’s not very central, it has everything, including a Marks & Spencer. Take trolley-bus no.6 from Vabaduse sq. (D-2) or no.7 from Balti Jaam train station (B-1) to Zoo stop.QK-7, paldiski mnt 102, tel. (+372) 665 91 00, [email protected], www.roccaalmare.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00 supermarket open 08:00 - 23:00. JULK solaris Although more of an all-in-one entertainment complex than purely a shopping centre, Solaris does have a reasonable amount of shops, often higher end, where you can leave your money in lieu of goods.QD/e-3/4, estonia pst. 9, tel. (372) 615 51 00, info@ solaris.ee, www.solaris.ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00 shops open 10:00 - 21:00. JUFK stockmann The local branch of Finland’s premiere department store is a somewhat high-end affair. Just about everything you can imagine is sold in the five-storey complex.QH-4, Liivalaia 53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39, www.stockmann.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00, sun 10:00 - 21:00. UKW tallinna kauBamaja Tallinn’s giant, home-grown department store dates back to 1960, but has done a great job of keeping pace with the times. A glass gallery connects it to the Viru Keskus, where it has additional departments.QD-4, gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667 31 00, www.kaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00 Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. JUKW 114 Tallinn In Your Pocket

viru keskus This 30,000m2 shopping and dining complex  a large, but very classy  addition to downtown’s commercial scene.QC-4, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 14 44, fax (+372) 610 14 01, info@ virukeskus.com, www.virukeskus.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00 Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. TJUFKW

mArkeTs Balti jaama turg A throwback to the Soviet-era, the market area behind the train station is where locals go to get spare parts, used clothes and sides of beef. This is one of our favourites for local colour but enter at your own risk.Qb-1, Kopli 1, tel. (+372) 644 61 28. Open 09:00 - 18:00, sat, sun 09:00 - 17:00. fish market Located on the aptly named ‘Fish Beach’ street, this speciality fish market has everything from shark fins to monk fish. We don’t suggest taking anything from this market home as a souvenir though - your fellow passengers thank-you in advance.QF-3, Kalaranna 1, www.tallinnaturud.ee/kalaturg/asukoht-kontakt/. Open only on saturdays 10:00 - 16:00. knit market (sweater wall) Little old ladies sell their knitwear here along the Old Town wall. Shopping here is almost a tradition for visitors.QC-3, corner of Viru and Müürivahe. Open 09:00 - 17:00. J sadama turg Various Estonian handicrafts and food items can be found at this new market in the port area.Qg-4, sadama 25, [email protected], www.sadamaturg. ee. Open 09:00 - 19:00. viru market Lots of knits on sale in the yard adjacent the tram stop. QC-4, Mere pst. 1. Open 09:00 - 17:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

de la gardie ilusalong Hairstyling and facial treatments.QC-3, uus 7, tel. (+372) 631 47 49, [email protected], www.dlg.ee. Open 10:00 20:00, sun 11:00 - 17:00. roosikrantsi ilusalong This beauty salon has loads of refreshing and revitalising treatments for the weary traveller.QH-3, gonsiori 2 (Kaubamaja ground floor), tel. (+372) 669 13 00, roosike@ roosike.ee, www.roosike.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. viru ilusalong QC-4, Viru väljak 4, sokos Hotel Viru 3rd floor, tel. (+372) 682 09 90, [email protected], www.viruilusalong. ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00, sun 10:00 - 16.00.

clinics & hosPiTAls fertilitas private hospital QKaluri tee 5a, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 605 96 00/(+372) 605 96 01, [email protected], www.fertilitas.ee. Also at: E-4, Kaupmehe 4, 660 40 72, 646 35 39.. tallinn central hospital QH-3, ravi 18, tel. (+372) 622 70 70, [email protected], www.itk.ee. tallinn children’s hospital QH-3, Tervise 28, tel. (+372) 697 71 13/(+372) emergency 697 71 94, [email protected], www.lastehaigla.ee.

PhArmAcies Benu+ apteek QC-3/4, Aia 7 (rimi supermarket), tel. (+372) 648 41 99, www.benu.ee. Open 08:30 - 20:30, sat 09:00 20:00, sun 10:00 - 18:00. J tőnismäe apteek Qe-1, Tőnismägi 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 82, www.südameapteek.ee. Open 24hrs. ülikooli apteek QD-4, Kaubamaja 3 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 669 13 80, [email protected], www.ya.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

viru hamBakliinik Qg-3, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 660 23 02, info@ viruhambakliinik.ee, www.viruhambakliinik.ee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed sun.

flowers Burman garden Flowers and bouquets for all occasions.QH-3, Maakri 36, tel. (+372) 661 06 34, [email protected], www. burmaniaed.ee. Open 08:30 - 18:00. Closed sat, sun. flower wall The most central and popular place to buy flowers in Old Town.QC-3, beginning of Viru street, www.tallinnaturud.ee/lilleturg. Open 24hrs. hoBusepea flowershop QC-2, Hobusepea 10, tel. (+372) 648 18 41. Open 09:00 - 18:00, sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed sun.

key cuTs fix-serv QC-3, Aia 3, (WW passaaž), tel. (+372) 627 12 34. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 10:00 - 17:00. locknet QH-3, Maakri 28a, tel. (+372) 641 04 91, www.locknet. ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed sun.

lAnguAge courses multilingua language school Qe-2, pärnu mnt. 16, tel. (+372) 640 85 40, info@ multilingua.ee, www.multilingua.ee. võõrkeeltekeskus QI-2, pärnu mnt. 82/88, tel. (+372) 646 00 80, www. keeltekool.ee.

shoe rePAir fix-serv QC-3, Aia 3 (WW passaž), tel. (+372) 627 12 34. Open 10:00 - 20:00, sun 10:00 - 17:00. June - July 2014

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Directory hedone A different kind of escape from the brutal Baltic weather is this sophisticated, oriental massage club. Slip on a comfy robe, sink into a deep sofa, take a puff on the water pipe and get wet in the Jacuzzi that dominates the main room. Before you ask, here ‘massage’ means just that, though the hands-on staff wear alluring belly-dancers’ outfits. There are several varieties of massages available. Reservation is recommended.QC-3, sauna 1, tel. (+372) 631 34 04, [email protected], www.hedone.ee. Open 11:00 06:00, Mon, Tue, sun 11:00 - 02:00. JX

mAssAge & joinT cAre indian ayurveda massage QH-2, Toompuiestee 18, tel. (+372) 604 21 72, info@ hrishy.com, www.ayurveda.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. kaarli massaaŽi keskus QH-2, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 611 91 14/(+372) 515 29 99, [email protected], www.kaarlimassaaz.ee. N tallinn trigenics pain treatment centre Specialising in physiotherapy, chiropractic, osteopathy, acupuncture, natural medicine and spinal decompression therapy, Clinic Director Dr. Allan Oolo has more than 30 years of clinical experience. Qpärnu mnt. 139C, tel. (+372) 621 4797, [email protected], www.kiropraktik.ee. Call ahead to make inquiries or to book an appointment. thaiana massage salon Located within walking distance or a short cab ride from the centre, this small and cosy massage salon specialises in various Thai massages - although they offer a more traditional oil massage as well. Masseuses are well trained and either Thai or Estonian, please mention your preference when booking. Their philosophy is that a relaxed body is just as important as a relaxed mind and the two are inseparable. QI-3, Koidu 62, tel. (+372) 660 01 01, info@ thaianamassage.com, www.thaianamassage.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, sat, sun 11:00 - 19:00.

PosT If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, there’s no need to visit a post office. Pretty much any kiosk will sell you stamps, just make sure they’re the right value for what you’re sending and where. The chart below explains the rates for both postcards and letters for the four pricing zones that Estonia uses. Once you’ve got your stamps licked and affixed, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small orange boxes attached to buildings around town. Don’t put your mail in the dark green boxes with round holes in the sides. Those are trash bins. old town post office You’ll be able to purchase and send post cards and other souvenirs and small items from this handy location.QC-3, Viru 20, tel. (+372) 1661, www.post.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed sat, sun.

sAunAs cluB 26 vip sauna On the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia these private saunas, of which there are two, offer perhaps the best views one can have while enjoying a sauna in the city. QH-3, Liivalaia 33 (radisson blu Hotel Olümpia), tel. (+372) 631 55 85/(+372) 631 53 00, olympia.club26@ radissonblu.com, www.club26.ee. Open 08:00 - 23:00. kalev spa hotel & water park Kalev Spa’s three VIP saunas are fairly comfortable and quite decent for sweating it out with friends..Qb-3/4, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 04, [email protected], www. kalevspa.ee/peod-seminarid/vip-saunad/. Open 09:00 - 23:00. kalma saun Built in 1928, Kalma is Tallinn’s oldest public sauna. QA-1, Vana-Kalamaja 9a, tel. (+372) 627 18 11, www. kalmasaun.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, sat, sun 10:00 23:00. Men €8 - 9/person, women €6.50 - 8/person. Two private saunas also available for rent by the hour. N

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moneygram (monex exchange) QC-3, Viru väljak 4, tel. (+372) 610 15 88, [email protected], www.monex-money.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

BaBor spa Considered to be one of the top Day Spas in the city, Babor will pamper both the inner and outer you.Qg-3, Narva mnt. 5, tel. (+372) 664 04 88, [email protected], www. baborspa.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J

western union (tallinn post office) QC-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. (+372) 625 73 04, info@post. ee, www.post.ee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed sun Also at: C-3, Viru 20, tel. 627 64 45. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed sat, sun. 116 Tallinn In Your Pocket

meriton wellness spa Qg-2, paldsiki mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 628 82 21, wellness@ meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 08:30 - 21:00. FDC tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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Street register Aarde G-1 Adamsoni H-2 Ahtri G-3 Aia C/D-4 Aida B-2 Alevi J-2 Alle G-5 Allika H-3 Ao H-2 Apteegi C-3 Aru F/G-1 Asula I/J-2 Asunduse H-5 Auli J-1/2 Auna G-1 Auru J-3 Bensiini G-5 Bremeni käik C-3 Dunkri D-2 Eha H-2 Endla H-1/2 Erika F-1 Estonia pst E-3/4 Faehlmanni H-4 Falgi D-1 Filmi G-5 Filtri I-4 Gildi H-4 Gonsiori H-3/5 Gümnaasiumi C-2 Haigru I-1 Hane J-1 Haraka J-2 Hariduse H-3 Härjapea G-1 Harju D/E-2 Hauka I-2 Heina F-1/G-2 Hermanni H-4 Herne I-3 Hõbeda H-4 Hobusepea C-2 Imanta H-4 Inseneri C-4 Invaliidi H/I-3 Jahu F-3 Jakobi H-4 Jakobsoni H-4 Järvevana I-4/J-3 Joa G-6 Jõe G-4 Juhkentali H-3/I-4 Kaarli pst E-1/2 Käbliku I-1 Kadri G-6 Kadriorg G-5 Kaera F-1 Kai G-3 Kajaka J-1 Kalasadama F-3 Kalevi F-2 Kalju F-2

Kannikese H-1 Kännu I/J-1 Käo J-1/2 Karjavärava D-3 Karu G-4 Kasvu H-1 Katariina käik C-3 Kauba I-2/J-3 Kauka H-3 Kauna I-3 Kaupmehe H-3 Kauri I-1 Keemia H-1 Keldrimäe H-4 Kentmanni H-3 K-Kalamaja B-1 Kesk-Ameerika I-2 Kesk-Sõjamäe J-6 Kevade H-2 Kibuvitsa H-1 Killustiku H-5 Kinga C-2 Kiriku C/D-1 Kiriku põik C-1 Kiriku plats D-1 Kivimurru I-5 Kodu I-3 Kohtu D-2 Koidu H/I-2 Koidula G-4/H-5 Köie F-2 Kolde G-1 Köleri G-4/5 Kollane H-4 Komandandi E-1 Komeedi H-2 Kooli B-2 Kopli B-1 Koskla H/I-1 Kotka I/J-2 Kotkapoja I-2 Kotzebue A-1/2 Kreutzwaldi H-4 Kristiina I-2 Kuhlbarsi H-4 Kullassepa D-2 Kullerkupu H-1 Kulli J-1 Kunderi H-4 Kungla F-2 Kuninga D-2 Kure J-1 Kuristiku G-6 Laagna G/H-6 Laboratooriumi B-2 Lagle I-2 Lahe G-5 Lai B-3/C-2 Lasnamäe G/H-6 Lastekodu H/I-4 Laulupeo H-4 Lauteri H-3

122 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Lehe I/J-1 Lembitu H-3 Lennujaama I-5 Lennuki H-3 Liblika I-1 Liivalaia H-3/4 Liivamäe H-4 Lille H-1 Linda G-2 Lindamägi H-2 Linnu tee J-1 Lootsi G-4 Lõkke H-2 Lõokese J-2 Lubja H-4 Luha I-2 Luige I-1 Luise H-2 Luste F-1 Lühike jalg D-2 Madara H-1/2 Mäekalda G/H-5 Magasini H/I-3 Magdaleena J-2 Maisi G-1 Majaka H/I-5 Malmi G-2 Maneezhi G-3 Mardi H-4 Mehaanika H/I-1 Mere A/D-4 Metalli H-1 Mineraali H-1 Mooni H/I-1 Mulla G/H-1 Mündi C-2 Munga C-3 Muti J-1 Müürivahe C-3/D-2 Nafta G-4 Narva G-3/6 Nepi I-2 Nevski D-2 Niguliste D-2 Niine A-1/2 Nisu F/G-1 Nõmme I-2 Nunne C-1/2 Odra H-4 Olevimägi B/C-3 Oleviste B-3 Orase G-1 Oru G-6 Otsa E-3 Paavli F-1 Pae H-6 Paekaare H-6 Paekivi I-5 Pagari B-3 Paide J-2/3 Paldiski H-2 Pärna H-4

Pärnu I-3/J-2 Peterburi I-5/6 Petrooleumi G-4/5 Piiskopi D-1 Pikk B-3/C-2 Pikk jalg D-2 Pirita F-6/G-5 Planeedi I-2 Põhja A-4/B-2 Poska G-5 Preesi G-1 Pronksi G/H-4 Punane H-6 Pühavaimu C-3 Raekoja D-2 Raekoja plats D-2 Rahukohtu C-1 Rannamäe B-1/4 Rapla J-2 Rataskaevu C-2 Raua G/H-4 Rävala H-3 Ravi H-3 Reinvaldi H-4 Roheline aas H-5 Rohu G-2 Roopa H-2 Roosikrantsi H-3 Roseni B-4 Rotermanni C-4 Rukki F-1 Rutu C-1 Rüütli D/E-2 Sadama G-3 Saiakang C-2 Sakala E-3 Saku J-2 Salme F-2 Saturni I-2 Saue G-2 Sauna D-3 Sõle G/H-1 Sõpruse pst I/J-1 Spordi I/J-2 Staadioni H-4 Süda H-3 Sügise G-2 Suitsu J-3 Sulevimägi B-3 Suur Kloostri C-2 Suur Rannavärav A-3 Suur-Ameerika H-2 Suur-Karja D-3 Suur-Laagri F-2 Suurgildi C-2 Suurtüki B-2 Tartu H-4/J-6 Tatari H/I-3 Teatri square E-4 Tedre I-1/J-2 Tehnika G/I-2 Telliskivi G-2/H-1

Terase G/H-4 Tihase I-1 Tina G-4 Tobiase H-4 Tolli B-3 Tondi J-2 Tõnismägi H-2 Toom-Kooli D-1 Toom-Rüütli C-2 Toompea E-1 Toompuiestee C-1 Toonela I-4 Tööstuse A-1 Tormi G-5 Town Hall D-2 Tuha H-5 Tulbi H-1 Tulika H-1/I-2 Turba G-6 Türi J-2/3 Tuukri G-4 Tuulemäe I-5 Tüve J-1 Tuvi H-2 Türnpu H-4 Ülemiste tee I-5 Uue maailma I-2 Uus B/D-3 Uus turg D-3 Uus-Kalamaja F-2 Uus-Sadama G-4 Vabaduse v. E-2 Vabriku G-2 Väike-Ameerika I-2 Väike-Karja D-3 Väike-Kloostri C-2 Väike-Laagri F-2 Väike-Sõjamäe J-6 Vaimu B/C-3 Valli D-3 Vana-Kalamaja B-1 Vana turg D-3 Vana-Lõuna I-3 Vana-Viru D-4 Vana-Posti D-2 Vanaturu kael D-2 Vase G-4 Veerenni I/J-3 Veetorni H-2 Vene C-3 Vesivärava G-4 Videviku I-2 Vilmsi G-4 Vineeri I-3 Virmalise I-2 Viru D-3/4 Võidujooksu G-6 Võistluse I-4 Voorimehe C-2 Weidemanni G-4 Weizenbergi G-5 Wismari E-1

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STOCKMANN

department store – the best place for shopping in Tallinn! A wide and inspiring selection of international brands and goods can be found in our fashion, cosmetic, electronics, home and food department. You can also visit our liquor store, restaurant, coffee-shops and beauty salons. We wait for you in Stockmann!

LIIVALAIA 53, TALLINN • WWW.STOCKMANN.EE