Sun Temple Modhera

HISTORY

Sun Temple at Modhera: An Ode in Stone Khurram Ashraf and Zeba Nisar

Model of Modhera Sun temple, Gujarat

An exploration into the planning of Sun temple, Modhera — an epitome of north Indian architectural style

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or centuries, Sun has been worshipped as a major deity in India. The Vedic scriptures of the Hindu religion refer sun, as the source of energy, vitality and life which controls the course of our life. Our concepts of life, time and death, good and evil, happiness and misery stem from this primeval source of divine effulgence. Many temples in India are exclusively dedicated to Sun: Martand temple in Kashmir, Katarmal in Almora, Osia in

Rajasthan, Konark in Orissa and Modhera in Gujarat. The Modhera sun temple is situated on the banks of the river Pushpavati, 30 kms from Mehesana and 125 kms from Ahmedabad in northern Gujarat. According to the ‘Skanda Purana’ and ‘Brahma Purana’, Modhera is an ancient township, known as Dharmaranya (literally meaning, the forest of righteousness). It is believed that Lord Rama performed here a yajna (sacrifice) himself

Model of Modhera Sun Temple, Gujarat

of the sin of having killed a Brahmin - Ravana, the king of Lanka. Rama built “Modherak” which subsequently came to be known as “Modhera”. It became a pilgrimage centre for hordes of people who thronged to the place to pay homage to Sun. The Sun Temple, Modhera (Gujarat) was built in 1026 AD by King Bhimdev of the Solanki dynasty. Solankis were considered to be Suryavanshis, or descendants of ‘Sun god’. This temple not only reflects the architectural abilities of the Solanki dynasty, which built it but also, speaks highly of the devotional zeal of the ruling dynasty at the time. As in the Sun Temple at Konark, this temple was so designed that the rays of the Sun would fall on the image of Surya at the time of the equinoxes. Whatever remains of this temple is grand; the shikharas are notably absent but the Toranas in the frontal halls, and the intricate carvings on the exterior speak of the splendor of this shrine, which still is a home to the Modhera dance festival.

SUN TEMPLE - NORTH INDIAN STYLE OF TEMPLE ARCHITECTURE The basic structure of temples in India is a room or the Garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum) where the idol of the main deity is kept. The temple is approached by a flight of steps and is often built on a platform. A porch covers the entrance to the temple and is supported by carved pillars. A prominent roof called the Shikhara surmounts the top of the Garbhagriha and dominates the surroundings. The temple at Modhera has a hall within it known as the mandap, a feature common to some large temples of North India. Temple architecture in India is broadly divided into the northern and southern styles. The form and shape of the Shikhara and the distinctiveness of its decoration have led to this classification. The Shikhara of the temples in south India tends to be made up of distinct horizontal levels that diminish to form a pyramid. Each level is decorated with miniature temple rooftops.

The shikhara of the temples in north and central India, in contrast, resembles an upturned cone that is decorated with miniature conical shikharas. Though the Sun Temple at Modhera belongs to the north Indian style of temple architecture, it has some distinct features of its own. The structure of the main temple cannot be reached directly because the main temple and the Gateway or Torana are separated by a pillared mandap. There is a large water tank in front of the Torana, which leads to the temple and is a distinct feature of this temple.

SUN TEMPLE MODHERA – its components The imposing Sun Temple stands in the middle of a large compound of the small town of Modhera. This temple was constructed at a time when the cult of Sun worship held its sway in many parts of India in the early medieval period. Various Hindu rulers, in their acts of obeisance, erected magnificent structures. October 2009 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People 35

Site Plan of Sun Temple at Modhera, Gujarat

The Sun Temple at Modhera is divided into three main sections. 1. Surya Kund, which is an intricately carved, stepped tank named after Sun God Surya 2. Sabha Mandap, which is a hall used for religious gatherings and conferences. 3. Guda Mandap, i.e. sanctum sanctorum, which once housed the idol of Sun God.

SURYA KUND Most well designed sun temples have a tank, for it reflects a belief as old as the Rig Veda that the divine sun emerged from the Cosmic Waters. The Surya-kunda also known as Rama-kunda is a fascinating massive rectangular stepped tank, located in front of the toran, which leads one to the temple. It measures 176 feet north to south, by 120 feet east 36 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People October 2009

Surya Kund, Sun temple at Modhera in Gujarat

to west.  It was used to store pure water. Devotees on their way to offer prayers to the Sun God stopped here for cer-

emonial ablutions and would proceed for worship towards the temple only after cleansing themselves here. Small,

arches, which have a marvelous quality of intricate and precision craftsmanship, crowning Kirti Stambas(towers of fame), erected by Solanki Rajput kings to commemorate their victories in battle field. This hall of religious gatherings is a magnificent pillared hall. The Sabha Mandap is a forest of some 52 pillars, each one of them carved in intricate detail and depicting whole vol-

Sectional Elevation of Surya Kund

miniature shrines dot the steps around this kund. The tank is profusely covered with sculpture in relief in wide bands that run all alongside the length and breadth. There are 108 of them to coincide with the number considered auspicious by the Hindus. Besides these, there are four larger shrines dedicated to Lord Vishnu (one of the principle gods in the Hindu pantheon), Ganesh (the God of knowledge and prosperity and son of Lord Shiva), Natraja (Lord Shiva as the cosmic dancer) and Sitala Mata (the goddess of the dreaded disease-smallpox).

SABHA MANDAP The Sabha mandap is a small independent structure, which can be approached from all four sides. The entrance to the temple is through Torana

Sabha Mandap

Plan of Sabha Mandap

umes of folk tales from the great Hindu epics, Ramayana and the Mahabharata. The pillars and entrances have been cleverly spaced out so as to allow varying shades of light and darkness to fall on the carvings. At the centre of the hall is the walnut shaped ceiling, with its numerous folds of floral girdles, upheld by two aisles of pillars arranged on diagonals of the square plan. Even at its dimly lit height, the astounding splendor of stone craft shines brightly. It is a visual delight to stand under the 23 feet high ceiling. The architectural plan of this temple follows the tradition of th e time, which was having twin halls. So, while the October 2009 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People 37

Sabha Mandap was meant for religious congregations, the main temple or the Guda Mandap was built to house the sanctum sanctorum.

GUDA MANDAP The Guda mandap forms the third section of the Sun Temple at Modhera and is not attached to the sabha mandap. The guda mandap is placed on a lotusbase plinth. It has friezes of the Sun God, other gods and goddesses covering its walls. Besides the depiction of various deities, one can also see on the walls, various aspects of human life like the cycle of birth and death and some erotic scenes from the Kama Sutra or the ancient Indian treatise on love. It is rectangular in plan, measures 51 feet 9 inches in length and 25 feet 8 inches in breadth. Thus the total area of about 1275 sq.ft is divided into nearly two equal halves.  The inner half occupies the Garbhagrha (sanctum sanctorum) and the front one the Mandapa (hall). Between the outer walls

Plan of Guda Mandap 38 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People October 2009

Guda Mandap

of the sanctum sanctorum and that of the temple is the pradakshina-marga or bhrama (the circumambulatory passage).  This passage was roofed with flat slabs laid across and carved with rosettes on the undersides and above this, rose the sikhara.   The sanctum sanctorum, once housed the magnificent idol of the Sun

God. The guda mandap has been so designed that on solar equinoxes i.e. on March 21 and September 23, the first rays of the rising sun fall directly on and light up the niche of the idol of the Surya Bhagwan (Sun God) sits. It is said that the Guda mandap had a tunnel, which could be used by the members of the royal family to flee, in case of an

Guda Mandap

Ceiling Plan of Guda Mandap

attack. Though the roof over the Garbhagriha of this hall has collapsed, the ruined shell gives an idea of the form and details of the structure.

Modhera has now the place for several dance and cultural festivals. The sun temple and the ambience here provide a majestic backdrop for the

exhibition of performing arts. It also has the added charm of being off the tourist trail, even though every book on Indian architecture makes a mandatory reference to it. Even in its own time it was recognized as something special, as tradition immediately began saying the temple was overlaid in gold leaf, so brightly did the soft orange sandstone, it is constructed of, blaze in the light of the eye of the World.

references Brown Percy, Indian Architecture (Buddhist and Hindu Periods), An article on Sun-Temple at Modhera (Gujarat) by Dr. Advaitavadini Kaul. All illustrations are made by the students of B.Arch Ist year (Batch: 2005-06), Integral University, Lucknow. This exercise was done by them as a part of their measure drawing curriculum under the guidance of Ar. Khurram Ashraf and Ar. Zeba Nisar.

Carving details of Sabhamandap

Ar. Khurram Ashraf, M.Arch. and Ar. Zeba Nisar, M.Arch. are Lecturers in Faculty of Architecture, Integral University, Lucknow. Photograph: Courtesy the Author.

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