STDS`M&S

Marks & Spencer

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

‘LS’ STANDARDS LIGHT SEWING – LIGHT WEIGHT WOVEN and KNITTED FABRICS (LESS THAN APPROX. 120-15O G/SQ. M) Blouses, Formal and Casual Shirts & Tops, Light Weight dresses and skirts, and Lightweight jackets, shorts etc.

Fabric category Machine washable Woven cotton and cotton blends, filament fabrics (incl. those with spun wefts) e.g. polyester, viscose and other man-made fibres. Various other woven blends e.g. Linen, Tencel, Modal, blends, Cotton Velvets, etc.

Test Code LS/01 All except mens formal shirts Blouses, Shirts, other Formal Tops, and Light Weight dresses and skirts Men’s Formal Shirts

Stability Wash

Thermal Stability

Tensile Strength (weft)

Tear Strength

See below for test

P10

P11

LS/01 All fabrics except in men’s formal shirts MSW (iii) @ 50°C

Test only applies to woven synthetic with cellulose blends 30 secs. @ 160°C

L –3.0% W –3.0%

Menswear (Formal Shirts only)

MSW (iii) @ 50°C L –2.0% W –2.0% MACHINE WASHABLE SILK MSA (i) @ 40°C L –3.0% W –3.0%

Hand Wash only e.g. Silk and Silk blends

L –2.0% W –2.0% Test not required on stretch fabrics

Fabric Slippage

Pilling Drum

P29

P12

P18A

All fabrics except spun viscose 18.0kg

Woven cotton, cellulosics and blends 700g

Method I Original 5.5kg Washed 5.5kg

Spun Viscose (tested wet) 12.0kg

Linen Agree standard with Technologist

Note: Where the same fabric is used for heavier apparel, for example trousers, the test and performance standard is:

All fabrics with spun fibres e.g. Woven synthetic/ cellulosic blends (spun weft fabrics) Modal and Micro Modal blends

Men’s and Boys’ Formal and Casual Shirts All fabrics 20.0kg

(weft)

3000 revs Grade C (overall)

Method II Original 12.0 kg Washed 12.0 kg

MSG (ii) @ 40°C LS/02

Light Sewing − Woven Fabrics

L –3.0% W –3.0%

February 2008

Page 1 of 8

Marks & Spencer

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

LIGHT SEWING FABRICS Stability Wash Fabric category

Test Code

Warp knitted fabics: rigid and stretch

LS/03

P1A MSW (iii) @ 50°C STRETCH WARP KNITS Raschel L –6.0% W –10.0% Tricot L –8.0% W –8.0% RIGID WARP KNITS L –6.0% W –6.0%

Light Sewing − Woven Fabrics

February 2008

Extension and Modulus

Snagging Drum

P14 (Warp Knits)

P21A Applies to filament, or filament and spun fabrics

Standard to be set and agreed with M&S technologist Control production to ±15% of mean extension figure

Grade 3-4 Report short, medium, or long snags Dependant on test result and end use, the M&S technologist may specify Wear Trial P49 prior to approval

Page 2 of 8

Marks & Spencer

Fabric category

Lightweight filament woven fabrics

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

Test Code

LS/04

Stability Wash

Tensile Strength (weft)

P1A See test detail below

P11

Synthetic fabrics (for example polyester or polyamide) MSW (iii) @ 50°C L –3.0% W –3.0% Triacetate fabrics MSA (iii) @ 40˚C L –3.0% W –3.0%

Tear Strength

Fabric Slippage

Residual Extension

Snagging Drum

P12

P15 part 1

P21A

Method I Original 5.5kg Washed 5.5kg

All stretch garments

Grade 3-4

(weft) P29

Maximum 5.0%

18.0kg

700g

Note: Where the same fabric is used for heavier apparel, for example trousers, the test and performance standard is: Method II Original 12.0 kg Washed 12.0 kg

Report short, medium, or long snags Dependant on test result and end use, the M&S technologist may specify Wear Trial P49 prior to approval

THIS DOCUMENT CONTINUES ON THE NEXT PAGE

Light Sewing − Woven Fabrics

February 2008

Page 3 of 8

Marks & Spencer

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

Additional tests that may be requested by the technologist Surface resistivity (polyester fabrics only)

Snagging Drum

Residual Extension (stretch fabrics)

Formaldehyde

P25

P21A

P15 Part 1

C18B and C18C

1011 Ohms

Grade 4

Maximum 5.0%

C18B: 300ppm maximum C18C: 75ppm maximum

THIS DOCUMENT CONTINUES ON THE NEXT PAGE

Light Sewing − Woven Fabrics

February 2008

Page 4 of 8

Marks & Spencer

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

Additional Tests that may be requested by the Technologist (including promotional claims) NON IRON

‘EASIER TO IRON’ Ironability of Lightweight Wovens

Accelorotor abrasion (velvet and corduroy fabrics only)

Crease Resistance

Cockling Assessment

WIRA Steam stability

Martindale Abrasion

Assessment of non iron fabrics and garments

P8

P19

P134 and P134A

P91

P26

P49 (wear trial)

P69

Washable Woven Wool And Wool Blends Only

Men’s Twill Shirts

Smoothness DP 3.5 (min.)

All fabrics except linen:

Pile Fabrics Only

Smoothness, crease retention and seams (pristine) all 3.5

DP 3.5 minimum

12% pile loss (maximum)

100% Viscose Fabrics, or as requested

Visual Assessment agree standard with technologist

10,000 revs

Womens’ L –3.0% W –3.0%

Linen: agree DP standard with technologist

Visual Assessment agree standard with technologist

Menswear L

–2.0%

W –2.0% maximum

Light Sewing − Woven Fabrics

February 2008

Page 5 of 8

Marks & Spencer

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

TECHNICAL NOTES: WOMENS’ Light Sewing fabrics e.g. Blouses, Shirts, Light Weight dresses and skirts, etc. Stability • Stability wash is critical in Formal Ladies Tops: higher than stated shrinkage can cause customer complaints – this is most critical on close fitting garments. • Customer machine wash is the target wash label – exceptions e.g. dry clean only, to be discussed with the technologist. • Where the test result shows shrinkage above stated standards, discuss fabric, and garment construction, and wear trial assessment, with the technologist. Tensile Strength (Weft) • For specialist and delicate fabrics (where fabric fails the test) e.g. devoré, a lining may be added and checked through P49 wear trial, then assessed by the technologist. Fabric Slippage • The quoted figures are requirements where the tested fabric is used in Standard Seams and not bias cut or French seamed in the garment. • Where fabrics do not perform to the quoted standard, suppliers should discuss garment construction (including French Seams and/or lining), and assessed against P49 wear trial (or other garment assessment) with the technologist. Accelorotor Abrasion • Tested fabric sample to be visually inspected to examine abrasion.

Light Sewing − Woven Fabrics

February 2008

Page 6 of 8

Marks & Spencer

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

TECHNICAL NOTES: MENS’ Light Sewing fabrics e.g. Formal and Casual Shirts Stability • • •

Stability wash is critical in Formal Men’s Shirts: higher than stated shrinkage can cause customer complaints. Where the test result shows shrinkage above stated standards, discuss fabric and garment construction, and wear trial assessment, with the technologist. Linen and viscose fabrics are difficult to get stable, therefore if these figures deviate from the standard, agree standard with Department Technologist.

Seam Slippage • Lower performance figures should be discussed with the technologist, to include stronger seam options such as Twin Needle, Lap or French seams (3.5kg slippage is acceptable, subject to P49 Wear Trial to confirm performance). Easier to iron • Linen and blends only: DP rating to be agreed with M&S technologist.

Light Sewing − Woven Fabrics

February 2008

Page 7 of 8

Marks & Spencer

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

TECHNICAL NOTES: CHILDRENS3WEAR

Light Sewing fabrics Kidswear Safety Manual: All products to be tested to relevant Performance Standards, and achieve a pass as a minimum.

Light Sewing − Woven Fabrics

February 2008

Page 8 of 8