St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Hotels Restarants Cafés Nihtlife Sihtseein Events Mas

ST.. pETERS ST pE TERSbuRg buRg Octoer - Novemer 2012

 Visitin  Visitin  Vladimir  Stroll into history 

 Atmn festivals festivals

Manhattan film festival festi val,, Windows on the Netherlands, Side by Side

October - November 2012 No85 st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents

ESSENTIAL

CITY

GUIDES

Contents Foreword A word from our editor 

4

News What’s new in the city 

5

Basics

6

History

8

Getting Around

9

Language

10

Culture and Events

11

Bridges Schedule

11

Exhibitions

18

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

4

Nor spring nor summer beauty hath such grace, as I have  seen in one autumnal face - wrote John Donne, the English

poet. For many Russians, St. Petersburg is associated with autumn, which has al ways been my favorite time of the year. Ok, it may be cold and rainy (and since we are talking about  Russia - sometimes snowy too) but there`s there`s something magical about Autumn in this city. School has already started and there’s newness in the air, even though the season is the precursor to winter. October and November can be a wonderful time to explore St. Petersburg, despite the fact that you can never predict the weather, there’s plenty to do. If it`s not too cold a nd there’s no ice on the Neva you can still admire the bridges opening at night (check the schedule on page 11) or if winter has arrived early just go spend the evening in a hot Russian banya instead (page 61). Enjoying the vibrant colours of the falling autumn leaves or  the sparkle of the first frost in the countryside at one of St. Petersburg`s imperial suburbs is another must. And if you will be staying in Russia a bit longer we recommend you visit  Vladimir, one of the oldest towns in Russia and a gateway to the famous ‘Golden Ring’. Turn to pages 20-22 to read our  tips on what to do in thi s historic town. Of course this is also the time when the new cultural season is in full swing. Whether you like rock, pop or classical concerts,  film festivals, art exhibition s, opera or ballet, St. Petersburg  is your kind of town this autumn. And football fans shouldn’t  miss the pride of the city - FC Zenit - playing in two Champions League matches at the Petrovsky Stadium. You can find out  all about these events an d more on pages 11-19. And just as the seasons are changing, so too is St. Petersburg: new clubs, concert spaces, bars, cafés and restaurants are opening  all the time. Whatever you do here this autumn share your  experiences with us and other readers at www.facebook. com/StPetersburgInYourPocket. Ksenia Elzes, Editor St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Cover story The colourful figure on our cover is one of four statues of  restored Chinese ladies which sit atop a decorative bridge in the gardens of Catherine’s Palace in Pushkin. The extensive grounds of the fabulous palace also contain a pyramid, a Chinese temple and a Tatar mosque. Photo by Dreamstime.

ESSENTIAL

CITY

GUIDES

 founded and published by  OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, [email protected] tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65,  fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,

russia.inyourpocket.com

Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, [email protected] General director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected] Accountant [email protected]

© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket  Published 6 times per year with supplements, No85, 01-10-2012, 90.000 copies © Maps the BCB-Group

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Vladimir

20

Hotels

23

Restaurants and Cafes

27

Nightlife

38

Sightseeing

46

Further Afield

52

Veliky Novgorod

54

Moscow

55

Shopping

57

Expat

59

Lifestyle Directory

61

Metro Map

62

Map

63

Street Register

66

October - November 2012

news

Foreword

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

3

The World of In Your Pocket Northern Ireland

Estonia Russia

Latvia

Ireland

Lithuania Belarus Netherlands

Poland

Germany Belgium Czech Republic

Ukraine

Austria Romania Slovenia Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo

Switzerland

New concert venue A2 opens

Visas eased for US citizens

St. Petersburg‘s live music scene continues to go from strength to strength with the opening of the large new concert space A2, located in a 19th Centur y former factory on the Petrograd side of  the city. The new 5,000 square metre club has two stages; one accommodating crowds of up to 5,000 people and a smaller one suitable for 1,500, as well as ample bar and restaurant spaces and other areas which can accommodate the overflow of large  festivals  festivals and events. events. Thisunique project has been been put together  by the same team who opened the now defunct A2 club which held numerous small-scale concerts by major international names such as Yoav and Patrick Wolf and who also now run the larger and more commercially successful Kosmonavt club. The line-up for the coming months includes numerous big international acts such as Garbage, Yann Tiersen and Scooter as well as major club nights featuring top star DJs and alternative music  festivals  festivals showcasing showcasing the best of the European European underground. underground. A2 Club, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)

After much negotiation the US and Russia have signed a new agreement which came into force on September 09 significantly  easing the Russian visa process for American citizens. Under the new agreement all business and tourist visas issued to American citizens will now be multiple-entry and valid for three years allowing the visitor to stay in Russia for up to 6 months. In addition, invitation letters from businesses or individuals in Russia will not  be required to be submitted in support of an application, except  in certain circumstances. For more information on how to apply   for a Russian Russian visa as an American American citizen please please contact your  your  local Russian consulate or embassy.

495 309 99 22, a2.fm

It was 20 years ago this year that the first  In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania.

Since then, we have grown to become the largest  publisher of locally produced ci ty guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just  launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore . Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your  Pocket, like  us on Facebook (facebook.com/  inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/  inyourpocket).

Editorial department

Editor’s note

Editors Louise Whitworth, Ksenia Elzes

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at  the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

[email protected] Layout & Design Malvina Markina [email protected] Research Ksenia Elzes, Elizaveta Bolshanina [email protected] Contributors

Vanessa Prolow Commercial department Sales Director Jerke Verschoor   [email protected] Sales Manager Lev Sotnikov [email protected] To order issues Tanya Khari tonova [email protected] Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2012. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All rights reserved. No part of  this publication may be reproduced in any   form, except brief extracts for the purpose of  review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license  from UAB In Your Your Pocket.

175 years of Russian rail

Happy Unity Day  November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This national holiday is a new old holiday having been celebrated for the first  time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious uprising in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky whi ch ejected the Polish forces from Moscow. Celebrated every year from 1612 up until 1917, the holiday  was resurrected in 2005. It is viewed by most observers as a replacement holiday for the now-abolished holiday of November  7 which commemorated The October Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you congratulate someone on this holiday… Happy Unity Day! As the holiday falls on a Sunday this year, Monday November 05 will be taken as a national public holiday.

This year in October Russia celebrated the 175 anniversary of  the state railways network RZD. The first Russian rail tracks were laid in 1837. The 26.3 km track ran between St. Petersburg and the imperial suburb of Tsarskoe Selo. From these humble beginnings the rail network soon began to swiftly grow. In 1842 work  started on the route connecting Moscow and St. Petersburg  and in 1891 construction began on the famous Trans-Siberian railway. Incredibly it took only 25 years to lay all the 9,289km of  track stretching from Moscow to Vladivostok, passing through some of the world’s most inhospitable territory. One of the biggest employers in the country, Russian Railways currently  employs more than 970,000 people and over the next eight  years the company will continue to grow. By 2020 RZD plans to have laid 20,000km of new rail tracks, particularly in the Urals, Siberia and the Far East and will be developing yet more highspeed routes similar to the Sapsan route which runs between Moscow and St. Petersburg, whilst also focusing on developing  its lucrative freight routes connecting the pacific coast with Western Europe. As part of continued restructuring, the company  has also introduce d new special deals on tickets for second class (kupe) places on night trains. If you buy your kupe ticket more than 30 days in advance of your journey, you can get the ticket  half-price. The offer is valid on all long-distance trains.

Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No. 59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз.

No85. 01.10.2012

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

5

4

news

Foreword Nor spring nor summer beauty hath such grace, as I have  seen in one autumnal face - wrote John Donne, the English

The World of In Your Pocket

poet. For many Russians, St. Petersburg is associated with autumn, which has al ways been my favorite time of the year. Ok, it may be cold and rainy (and since we are talking about  Russia - sometimes snowy too) but there`s there`s something magical about Autumn in this city. School has already started and there’s newness in the air, even though the season is the precursor to winter. October and November can be a wonderful time to explore St. Petersburg, despite the fact that you can never predict the weather, there’s plenty to do. If it`s not too cold a nd there’s no ice on the Neva you can still admire the bridges opening at night (check the schedule on page 11) or if winter has arrived early just go spend the evening in a hot Russian banya instead (page 61). Enjoying the vibrant colours of the falling autumn leaves or  the sparkle of the first frost in the countryside at one of St. Petersburg`s imperial suburbs is another must. And if you will be staying in Russia a bit longer we recommend you visit  Vladimir, one of the oldest towns in Russia and a gateway to the famous ‘Golden Ring’. Turn to pages 20-22 to read our  tips on what to do in thi s historic town. Of course this is also the time when the new cultural season is in full swing. Whether you like rock, pop or classical concerts,  film festivals, art exhibition s, opera or ballet, St. Petersburg  is your kind of town this autumn. And football fans shouldn’t  miss the pride of the city - FC Zenit - playing in two Champions League matches at the Petrovsky Stadium. You can find out  all about these events an d more on pages 11-19. And just as the seasons are changing, so too is St. Petersburg: new clubs, concert spaces, bars, cafés and restaurants are opening  all the time. Whatever you do here this autumn share your  experiences with us and other readers at www.facebook. com/StPetersburgInYourPocket.

Northern Ireland

Lithuania Belarus Netherlands

GUIDES

 founded and published by  OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, [email protected] tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65,  fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,

russia.inyourpocket.com

Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, [email protected] General director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected] Accountant [email protected]

© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket  Published 6 times per year with supplements, No85, 01-10-2012, 90.000 copies © Maps the BCB-Group

Austria Romania Slovenia Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo

Visas eased for US citizens

St. Petersburg‘s live music scene continues to go from strength to strength with the opening of the large new concert space A2, located in a 19th Centur y former factory on the Petrograd side of  the city. The new 5,000 square metre club has two stages; one accommodating crowds of up to 5,000 people and a smaller one suitable for 1,500, as well as ample bar and restaurant spaces and other areas which can accommodate the overflow of large  festivals  festivals and events. events. Thisunique project has been been put together  by the same team who opened the now defunct A2 club which held numerous small-scale concerts by major international names such as Yoav and Patrick Wolf and who also now run the larger and more commercially successful Kosmonavt club. The line-up for the coming months includes numerous big international acts such as Garbage, Yann Tiersen and Scooter as well as major club nights featuring top star DJs and alternative music  festivals  festivals showcasing showcasing the best of the European European underground. underground. A2 Club, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)

After much negotiation the US and Russia have signed a new agreement which came into force on September 09 significantly  easing the Russian visa process for American citizens. Under the new agreement all business and tourist visas issued to American citizens will now be multiple-entry and valid for three years allowing the visitor to stay in Russia for up to 6 months. In addition, invitation letters from businesses or individuals in Russia will not  be required to be submitted in support of an application, except  in certain circumstances. For more information on how to apply   for a Russian Russian visa as an American American citizen please please contact your  your  local Russian consulate or embassy.

495 309 99 22, a2.fm

It was 20 years ago this year that the first  In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania.

Since then, we have grown to become the largest  publisher of locally produced ci ty guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just  launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore . Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your  Pocket, like  us on Facebook (facebook.com/  inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/  inyourpocket).

Editorial department

Editor’s note

Editors Louise Whitworth, Ksenia Elzes

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at  the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

[email protected] Layout & Design Malvina Markina [email protected] Research Ksenia Elzes, Elizaveta Bolshanina [email protected] Contributors

Vanessa Prolow Commercial department Sales Director Jerke Verschoor   [email protected] Sales Manager Lev Sotnikov [email protected] To order issues Tanya Khari tonova [email protected] Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2012. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All rights reserved. No part of  this publication may be reproduced in any   form, except brief extracts for the purpose of  review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license  from UAB In Your Your Pocket.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

6

Ukraine

Switzerland

Cover story

CITY

Poland

Germany Belgium Czech Republic

The colourful figure on our cover is one of four statues of  restored Chinese ladies which sit atop a decorative bridge in the gardens of Catherine’s Palace in Pushkin. The extensive grounds of the fabulous palace also contain a pyramid, a Chinese temple and a Tatar mosque. Photo by Dreamstime.

ESSENTIAL

Russia

Latvia

Ireland

Ksenia Elzes, Editor St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Estonia

New concert venue A2 opens

175 years of Russian rail

Happy Unity Day  November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This national holiday is a new old holiday having been celebrated for the first  time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious uprising in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky whi ch ejected the Polish forces from Moscow. Celebrated every year from 1612 up until 1917, the holiday  was resurrected in 2005. It is viewed by most observers as a replacement holiday for the now-abolished holiday of November  7 which commemorated The October Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you congratulate someone on this holiday… Happy Unity Day! As the holiday falls on a Sunday this year, Monday November 05 will be taken as a national public holiday.

This year in October Russia celebrated the 175 anniversary of  the state railways network RZD. The first Russian rail tracks were laid in 1837. The 26.3 km track ran between St. Petersburg and the imperial suburb of Tsarskoe Selo. From these humble beginnings the rail network soon began to swiftly grow. In 1842 work  started on the route connecting Moscow and St. Petersburg  and in 1891 construction began on the famous Trans-Siberian railway. Incredibly it took only 25 years to lay all the 9,289km of  track stretching from Moscow to Vladivostok, passing through some of the world’s most inhospitable territory. One of the biggest employers in the country, Russian Railways currently  employs more than 970,000 people and over the next eight  years the company will continue to grow. By 2020 RZD plans to have laid 20,000km of new rail tracks, particularly in the Urals, Siberia and the Far East and will be developing yet more highspeed routes similar to the Sapsan route which runs between Moscow and St. Petersburg, whilst also focusing on developing  its lucrative freight routes connecting the pacific coast with Western Europe. As part of continued restructuring, the company  has also introduce d new special deals on tickets for second class (kupe) places on night trains. If you buy your kupe ticket more than 30 days in advance of your journey, you can get the ticket  half-price. The offer is valid on all long-distance trains.

Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No. 59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз.

No85. 01.10.2012

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

Basics Some pointers to get you started and help you make some sense of chaotic Russian life.

Alcohol Stereotypes about Russian drinking habits are mostly true, so if you somehow find yourself enmeshed in a vodka session with locals, don’t try to keep up. Vodka is cheap and there are tonnes of brands. Russky Standart, Diplomat and Zhuravli are pretty good. Be aware that you can’t buy strong alcohol (more than 5% proof) in shops from 23:00 until 07:00. Russian beer ( pivo  pivo ) is good stuff; try locally brewed Nevskoe or  Baltika. Sovetskoe shampanskoe (Soviet Champagne) is the national party drink.

Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carryin g  thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought  get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Russian Cultural Security Department), Ul. Malaya Morskaya 17, Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 17:00 or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Be on guard! Pickpocket places

Nevsky Prospekt and other downtown streets are very  popular places for pick-pocketing gangs. They like to block the entrances/exits of public transport and metro entrances (particularly during rush hour). It may be wiser  to leave valuables in your hotel’s safe and carry only  enough cash for the day. Also watch your belongings when you travel by metro, especially if it is rush hour. Think twice about leaving mobile phones in bags when checking them at theatre or nightclub cloakrooms. Police!

The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that  you always carry a few photocopies; if the poli ce stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original. What to do if you are robbed

Cancel your credit cards as soon as possible. Carry  copies of your credit cards with international customer  service numbers somewhere other than your wallet. The Tourist Information offi ce, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you  file a poli ce report. Your consulate c an help you i f your  passport has been stolen . More safety...

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking  loudly in your mother tongu e, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t  speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7 (+7)) 812 300 3 3 33.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

5

Basics

Foreigner Foreig ner Prices

Mobile Phones

The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that  Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document ( propusk ),), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone,  for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven- digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. A  pre-paid card account starts from around 150Rbl and in cludes about the same moneys worth of calls. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.

Habits No shoes in the house! When entering a Russian household, remember to take your shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually your host will offer you slippers. In terms of greetin gs, men shake hands with each other on meeting and if you’re a woman and you hold your hand out to a man, don’t be suprised if it is not shaken but kissed. Chivalry is alive and kicking! It’s also seen as very rude to blow your nose loudly  in public and cross your legs on public transport. Spitting on the streets seems to be okay, though.

Health and Safety  Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. The famed Russian mafia has bigger fish to fry than your average tourist and you’re more likely to be robbed or beaten up by the thugs ingeniously  disguised as police officers. Russian drivers are your biggest  danger, so cross roads carefully and don’t assume cars will stop just because you’re on a zebra crossing. Other dangers include dodgy electrical fittings, temperamental gas stoves, uncovered manholes and absinthe. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can al so pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or  wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it  a good boil first.

Internet access Most cafes, restaurants and bars now have free wifi, just  ask your waiter for a parol (password) to be able to log in. Yota If you are here for a while and need a reliable mobile internet service, th e company Yota Yota is the leader in 4G instant  internet. You will need to bu y a mini-modem (like a large USB memory stick) which costs around 2,000Rbl and sign up to a number of Yota packages. Cafemax E-4, Nevsky pr. 90/92, MMayakovskaya, Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 66 55, www.cafemax.ru. QOpen 24hrs.

Money  The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbls. There There are 100 kopeks to a ruble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels. Not all establishments take credit cards, even if they have signs that say they do. Always have cash as back up. American Express travellers’ cheques are exchangeable at most  banks or call the h ead office hotl ine on (+7) 800 200 94 49.

Most Russian banks also offer Western Union money  transfers.

Queuing  It may seem improbable when confronted with the Russian populace enmasse inside the metro but outside public transport Russians adhere to queuing rules strictly. The modus operandi involves fronting up to the dispersed group and asking ‘Kto pasledny ?’ ?’ (Who’s last?), to which someone will answer ‘Ya ’ (meaning me). Now all you need to do is wait for your turn. Unwritten rules include telling  the person behind you that you are just nipping out for a cigarette and will be back in five minutes. Contrary to western understanding, you don’t lose your place by not  waiting around, you can also just come back later.

Toilets or or

= ladies = gentlemen

Making a Call Calling within St. Petersburg - To call any number  within St. Petersburg from a private fixed line, just dial the local seven–digit number as it is, without any codes. Normally, all calls from fixed lines to other fixed lines in St. Petersburg are free. Calling within Russia - For a call to Moscow or any other  city in Russia, simply dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary  if you have a digital line), then dial the Russian city code and the number. Calling internationally - To phone home from a St. Petersburg landline without using a card, dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary if you have a digital line), then dial 10 and the country code city code and the number as usual. st petersburg inyourpo cket com

If the portable lavatory  doesn’t thrill you, try McDonald’s or random hotels and cafes uttering the words ‘ Gde  tualet ?’ (‘Where is the toilet?).

Leaving St. Petersburg By Plane

St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most  international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34

44,www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including  those to most former Soviet Republ ics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long. Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask  anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. For taxi comapnies see page 9. Getting to the airport by Public Transport: buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go  from Moskovskaya and also t he more central Sen naya Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the international and domestic terminals with the city  centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnolgichesky Institut and ends at Vladimirskaya.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your  arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of  arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight  while officials interrogate you.

departure time - don’t be late, they won’t wait!

number of your carriage (vagon)

departure date number of the train seat or bed number (myesta) your passport number – check when you buy  the ticket that the seller  copied it correctly  Note all times are always Moscow time - even when you’re in a different time zone.

that that’s ’s you you!!

arriv arrival al tim timee

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

7

Basics

6

Some pointers to get you started and help you make some sense of chaotic Russian life.

Alcohol Stereotypes about Russian drinking habits are mostly true, so if you somehow find yourself enmeshed in a vodka session with locals, don’t try to keep up. Vodka is cheap and there are tonnes of brands. Russky Standart, Diplomat and Zhuravli are pretty good. Be aware that you can’t buy strong alcohol (more than 5% proof) in shops from 23:00 until 07:00. Russian beer ( pivo  pivo ) is good stuff; try locally brewed Nevskoe or  Baltika. Sovetskoe shampanskoe (Soviet Champagne) is the national party drink.

Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carryin g  thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought  get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Russian Cultural Security Department), Ul. Malaya Morskaya 17, Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 17:00 or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Be on guard! Pickpocket places

Nevsky Prospekt and other downtown streets are very  popular places for pick-pocketing gangs. They like to block the entrances/exits of public transport and metro entrances (particularly during rush hour). It may be wiser  to leave valuables in your hotel’s safe and carry only  enough cash for the day. Also watch your belongings when you travel by metro, especially if it is rush hour. Think twice about leaving mobile phones in bags when checking them at theatre or nightclub cloakrooms. Police!

The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that  you always carry a few photocopies; if the poli ce stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original. What to do if you are robbed

Cancel your credit cards as soon as possible. Carry  copies of your credit cards with international customer  service numbers somewhere other than your wallet. The Tourist Information offi ce, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you  file a poli ce report. Your consulate c an help you i f your  passport has been stolen . More safety...

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking  loudly in your mother tongu e, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t  speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7 (+7)) 812 300 3 3 33.

Basics

Foreigner Foreig ner Prices

Mobile Phones

The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that  Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document ( propusk ),), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone,  for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven- digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. A  pre-paid card account starts from around 150Rbl and in cludes about the same moneys worth of calls. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.

Habits No shoes in the house! When entering a Russian household, remember to take your shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually your host will offer you slippers. In terms of greetin gs, men shake hands with each other on meeting and if you’re a woman and you hold your hand out to a man, don’t be suprised if it is not shaken but kissed. Chivalry is alive and kicking! It’s also seen as very rude to blow your nose loudly  in public and cross your legs on public transport. Spitting on the streets seems to be okay, though.

Health and Safety  Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. The famed Russian mafia has bigger fish to fry than your average tourist and you’re more likely to be robbed or beaten up by the thugs ingeniously  disguised as police officers. Russian drivers are your biggest  danger, so cross roads carefully and don’t assume cars will stop just because you’re on a zebra crossing. Other dangers include dodgy electrical fittings, temperamental gas stoves, uncovered manholes and absinthe. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can al so pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or  wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it  a good boil first.

Internet access Most cafes, restaurants and bars now have free wifi, just  ask your waiter for a parol (password) to be able to log in. Yota If you are here for a while and need a reliable mobile internet service, th e company Yota Yota is the leader in 4G instant  internet. You will need to bu y a mini-modem (like a large USB memory stick) which costs around 2,000Rbl and sign up to a number of Yota packages. Cafemax E-4, Nevsky pr. 90/92, MMayakovskaya, Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 66 55, www.cafemax.ru. QOpen 24hrs.

Money  The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbls. There There are 100 kopeks to a ruble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels. Not all establishments take credit cards, even if they have signs that say they do. Always have cash as back up. American Express travellers’ cheques are exchangeable at most  banks or call the h ead office hotl ine on (+7) 800 200 94 49.

Most Russian banks also offer Western Union money  transfers.

Queuing  It may seem improbable when confronted with the Russian populace enmasse inside the metro but outside public transport Russians adhere to queuing rules strictly. The modus operandi involves fronting up to the dispersed group and asking ‘Kto pasledny ?’ ?’ (Who’s last?), to which someone will answer ‘Ya ’ (meaning me). Now all you need to do is wait for your turn. Unwritten rules include telling  the person behind you that you are just nipping out for a cigarette and will be back in five minutes. Contrary to western understanding, you don’t lose your place by not  waiting around, you can also just come back later.

Toilets or or

= ladies = gentlemen

Making a Call Calling within St. Petersburg - To call any number  within St. Petersburg from a private fixed line, just dial the local seven–digit number as it is, without any codes. Normally, all calls from fixed lines to other fixed lines in St. Petersburg are free. Calling within Russia - For a call to Moscow or any other  city in Russia, simply dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary  if you have a digital line), then dial the Russian city code and the number. Calling internationally - To phone home from a St. Petersburg landline without using a card, dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary if you have a digital line), then dial 10 and the country code city code and the number as usual.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

If the portable lavatory  doesn’t thrill you, try McDonald’s or random hotels and cafes uttering the words ‘ Gde  tualet ?’ (‘Where is the toilet?).

Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs, although the poor  terms of abolition do little to quell revolutionary tensions amongst peasants. He is assassinated by anarchist terrorists on St. Petersburg’s canal Griboedeva. The church on the spilled blood is built in his honour. 1905

Bloody Sunday: a large crowd carrying a petition to the Winter  Palace for the Tsar is fired upon by the Tsar’s troops and hundreds are killed. The incident prompts outrage, strikes and eventually the establishment of a national parliament  (Duma) in 1906. 1914

Russia joins its alli es the French in World War I and St. Petersburg changes its name to Petrograd. 1916

9th Century

Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia,  founding Veliky N ovgorod, conver ting to Christi anit y, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th - 15th Centuries

Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. 17th Century

Time of Troubles 1603- 1613: the Swedes and Pol es invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703

Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 .

Wild-eyed, womanising Rasputin, a Siberian peasant monk  who has the Tsarina Alexandra under his spell, is murdered by Prince Felix Yusupov in St. Petersburg. 1917 - 1922

Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Leningrad. 1922 - 1936

Lenin implements the New Economic Policy (NEP), but  dies in 1924. Following a power struggle, Josef Stalin becomes leader and abolishes the NEP and brings in collectivisation. In 1934 Kirov is murdered and in 1937 the great Purges of Stalin’s terror begin. Millions are murdered or sent to gulags. 1941 - 1945

A princess from Germany marries into the Romanovs, becoming Catherine th e Great (1762 - 1796). Famous for progressive progressive reform, infamous for her lovers and renowned leaving an indelible mark upon the architectural ensemble of St. Petersburg.

June 1941 Nazi Germany invades the Soviet Union under  operation Barbarossa. In September 1941 the siege of Leningrad begins and i s only broken on January 27 1944. During  the siege at least 1.5 million die of starvati on or injuries. May  9, 1945, Nazi Germany capitulates. The Soviet death toll is estimated to be close to 30 million.

1812

1945 - 1964

1725-1825

Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. Led by poets Pushkin and Lermontov, Russia enters its Golden Age of poetr y. 1825 - 1861

In 1825 the Decembrist uprising is crushed. Soldiers and nobles revolt against Nicholas I, who executes and exiles the dissenters. In 1837 Russia’s best loved poet Pushkin is killed in a duel.

Climate Russia in the autumn - rain, wind and then a little flurry  of snow. In October Russia’s beautiful ‘golden autu mn’ is usually fully underway as the trees start to turn beautiful shades of red, orange and yellow. By the time November  arrives though snow will probably already be falling, mixed with the odd bit of icy rain, so stick to wearing layers, waterproof shoes and of course don’t forget your umbrella.

St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most  international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34

44,www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including  those to most former Soviet Republ ics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long. Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask  anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. For taxi comapnies see page 9. Getting to the airport by Public Transport: buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go  from Moskovskaya and also t he more central Sen naya Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the international and domestic terminals with the city  centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnolgichesky Institut and ends at Vladimirskaya.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your  arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of  arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight  while officials interrogate you.

departure time - don’t be late, they won’t wait!

number of your carriage (vagon)

number of the train seat or bed number (myesta) your passport number – check when you buy  the ticket that the seller  copied it correctly  Note all times are always Moscow time - even when you’re in a different time zone.

that that’s ’s you you!!

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

arriv arrival al tim timee

Winston Churchill announces that an ‘iron curtain’ has been drawn across Europe. The Cold War begins. Stalin dies in 1953. Khrushchev details Stalin’s atrocities in a secret  speech in 1956 and his body is removed from Lenin’s mausoleum in Moscow. Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space (1961). 1964 - 1991

Khrushchev is impeached, Brezhnev becomes leader and the years of stagnation begin. New l eader Gorbachev’s reforms of  perestroika (restructuring) an d glasnost (openness) improve western relations (1985) but also begin to de-stabilise the Soviet Union. In 1991 following the end of communism in Eastern Europe the Soviet Union collapses. 1991 - 1999

Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the new Russian Federation in 1991. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatisation shaking the country.

Public transport  Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can bu y tickets on board  from the conductor or the driver. If you are travelling outside the centre or have a long journey you may need a variety  of transport types. The website www.rusavtobus.ru is (mostly) available in English and will give you several options  for your journey start to finish. finish. Bus/Trolleybus/Tram - Most have scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin listing the next stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. Tickets cost 23Rbl. Metro - Petersburg has five colour–coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni ) from the windows labelled kassa  or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. One metro ride costs 27Rbl. Marshrutka - The marshrutka is a mini bus ta xi which follows a set route. When you see t he number you want, hail it do wn like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, ‘astanavites  pazhalusta ,’ and the driver will, hopefully, come to a screeching halt. The price of the ride will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your change down the front  of the bus towards the driver to pay.

Taxis ‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely. Although there are official’taxis, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary  cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick  out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko ?’); ?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. If the driver refuses, slam the door and sometimes they change their mind. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try  to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Ladybird, tel. (+7) 812 900 05 04, www.ladybird-taxi. ru.QWomen only taxi service; female drivers and car seats  for the kids. Open 24hrs. Zhyoltoe Taxi (Yellow Taxi) , tel. (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg.nyt.ru. City centre to airport around 700Rbl. Having exact change is recommended.

Ferries St. Peter Line Morskoy Vokzal, Pl. Morskoy Slavy 1, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 337 20 60 , w ww.stpeterline.com. The ferry is the first visa free link up between

Helsinki, Tallinn, Stockholm and St. Petersburg. Passengers can stay in Russia for a maximum 72hours (wi th no visits to other towns or cities). Daily journ eys between Helsinki and St. Petersburg, weekly between Tallinn and Stockholm. Check website for full schedule.

1999 - 2008

Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. Putin’s popularity knows no boundaries. In 2006 St. Petersburg hosts the G8 summit.

Train Stations Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Ga tchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo. Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow. Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.

Buses City Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvodnogo kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal. ru Tickets for domestic and international buses. QOpen

06:30 - 23:30. Eurolines Russia Nab. Obvodnogo Kanala 118 (busiQOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Car Rental

Another local boy, Dmitry Medvedev is elected President in March 2008 with overwhelming support. The constitution is changed to lengthen the Presidential term to 6 years.

AVIS Russia Car Rental F-4, Pl. Aleksandra Nevskogo 2, podezd 3, M Pl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 600 12 13, www.avis-rentacar.ru. Europcar D-3, Pulkovo 2, arriving hall, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 35 36, www.europcar.ru.

2012

Vladimir Putin is elected Russian President for the third time. st petersburg inyourpo cket com

Buying Tickets If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they  are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t  be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking  pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. At some stations there are also now self-service machines where you can buy and print out ti ckets yourself using a bank  card. Don’t forget to bring your passport with you as they  need it to print you passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation. If you lose your ticket it is possible to get  a new one printed at the special counter by bringing along  your passport and details of the train.

ness centre Admiral), MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.

2008 - 2012

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

By Plane

GettinG Around 1861 - 1881

History 

Leaving St. Petersburg

departure date

History

8

7

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

9

History

8

GettinG Around 1861 - 1881

Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs, although the poor  terms of abolition do little to quell revolutionary tensions amongst peasants. He is assassinated by anarchist terrorists on St. Petersburg’s canal Griboedeva. The church on the spilled blood is built in his honour. 1905

Bloody Sunday: a large crowd carrying a petition to the Winter  Palace for the Tsar is fired upon by the Tsar’s troops and hundreds are killed. The incident prompts outrage, strikes and eventually the establishment of a national parliament  (Duma) in 1906. 1914

Russia joins its alli es the French in World War I and St. Petersburg changes its name to Petrograd. 1916

Wild-eyed, womanising Rasputin, a Siberian peasant monk  who has the Tsarina Alexandra under his spell, is murdered by Prince Felix Yusupov in St. Petersburg.

History 

1917 - 1922

9th Century

Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia,  founding Veliky N ovgorod, conver ting to Christi anit y, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th - 15th Centuries

Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. 17th Century

Time of Troubles 1603- 1613: the Swedes and Pol es invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703

Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 .

Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Leningrad. 1922 - 1936

Lenin implements the New Economic Policy (NEP), but  dies in 1924. Following a power struggle, Josef Stalin becomes leader and abolishes the NEP and brings in collectivisation. In 1934 Kirov is murdered and in 1937 the great Purges of Stalin’s terror begin. Millions are murdered or sent to gulags. 1941 - 1945

A princess from Germany marries into the Romanovs, becoming Catherine th e Great (1762 - 1796). Famous for progressive progressive reform, infamous for her lovers and renowned leaving an indelible mark upon the architectural ensemble of St. Petersburg.

June 1941 Nazi Germany invades the Soviet Union under  operation Barbarossa. In September 1941 the siege of Leningrad begins and i s only broken on January 27 1944. During  the siege at least 1.5 million die of starvati on or injuries. May  9, 1945, Nazi Germany capitulates. The Soviet death toll is estimated to be close to 30 million.

1812

1945 - 1964

1725-1825

Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. Led by poets Pushkin and Lermontov, Russia enters its Golden Age of poetr y. 1825 - 1861

In 1825 the Decembrist uprising is crushed. Soldiers and nobles revolt against Nicholas I, who executes and exiles the dissenters. In 1837 Russia’s best loved poet Pushkin is killed in a duel.

Climate Russia in the autumn - rain, wind and then a little flurry  of snow. In October Russia’s beautiful ‘golden autu mn’ is usually fully underway as the trees start to turn beautiful shades of red, orange and yellow. By the time November  arrives though snow will probably already be falling, mixed with the odd bit of icy rain, so stick to wearing layers, waterproof shoes and of course don’t forget your umbrella.

Winston Churchill announces that an ‘iron curtain’ has been drawn across Europe. The Cold War begins. Stalin dies in 1953. Khrushchev details Stalin’s atrocities in a secret  speech in 1956 and his body is removed from Lenin’s mausoleum in Moscow. Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space (1961). 1964 - 1991

Khrushchev is impeached, Brezhnev becomes leader and the years of stagnation begin. New l eader Gorbachev’s reforms of  perestroika (restructuring) an d glasnost (openness) improve western relations (1985) but also begin to de-stabilise the Soviet Union. In 1991 following the end of communism in Eastern Europe the Soviet Union collapses. 1991 - 1999

Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the new Russian Federation in 1991. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatisation shaking the country.

Public transport  Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can bu y tickets on board  from the conductor or the driver. If you are travelling outside the centre or have a long journey you may need a variety  of transport types. The website www.rusavtobus.ru is (mostly) available in English and will give you several options  for your journey start to finish. finish. Bus/Trolleybus/Tram - Most have scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin listing the next stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. Tickets cost 23Rbl. Metro - Petersburg has five colour–coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni ) from the windows labelled kassa  or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. One metro ride costs 27Rbl. Marshrutka - The marshrutka is a mini bus ta xi which follows a set route. When you see t he number you want, hail it do wn like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, ‘astanavites  pazhalusta ,’ and the driver will, hopefully, come to a screeching halt. The price of the ride will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your change down the front  of the bus towards the driver to pay.

Taxis ‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely. Although there are official’taxis, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary  cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick  out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko ?’); ?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. If the driver refuses, slam the door and sometimes they change their mind. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try  to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Ladybird, tel. (+7) 812 900 05 04, www.ladybird-taxi. ru.QWomen only taxi service; female drivers and car seats  for the kids. Open 24hrs. Zhyoltoe Taxi (Yellow Taxi) , tel. (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg.nyt.ru. City centre to airport around 700Rbl. Having exact change is recommended.

Ferries St. Peter Line Morskoy Vokzal, Pl. Morskoy Slavy 1, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 337 20 60 , w ww.stpeterline.com. The ferry is the first visa free link up between

Helsinki, Tallinn, Stockholm and St. Petersburg. Passengers can stay in Russia for a maximum 72hours (wi th no visits to other towns or cities). Daily journ eys between Helsinki and St. Petersburg, weekly between Tallinn and Stockholm. Check website for full schedule.

1999 - 2008

Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. Putin’s popularity knows no boundaries. In 2006 St. Petersburg hosts the G8 summit.

Basic phrases

1 adin 12 2 dva 13 3 tri 14 4 chet yr yre 15 5 pya t 16 6 shest 17 7 sem 18 8 vo se sem 1 9 9 dev ya t 20 10 desya t 30 11 adin adinat atsa satt 40

d vina tsa t trinatsat ch et yrna tsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semna tsa t vosemnatsat d ev ev ya ya tn tn aatt sa sa t dvatsat tri ts tsat   soro sorok  k 

50 pyatdesya t   60 sh esdesyat   70 semdesya t   80 vosemdesyat   90 devyanosta 100 sto 500 pyatsot   1 00 000 t ys ys ic ich a 2000 d ve ve tysyachi

Where Where is the…? the…? Is i t far? Ri gh gh t/ t/l ef ef t Stra Straigh ightt ahead ahead Ti ck cket of offi ce ce Open Open/c /clo lose sedd

Gdye…? Gdye…? Eta dal eko? Napra vvoo/n al al ye yevo Pryam Pryamoo Ka ss ssa Otkryt Otkryto/ o/za zakry kryto to

Entra Entrance nce/e /exit xit Push/pull Ticket Retu Return rn (tic (ticke ket) t) Entrance  forbidden No smoking

zapreshchon Ne kuri t  

Где…? Это далеко? Направо/налево Прямо Касса Открыто/  закрыто Vkhod Vkhod/V /Vyk ykhod hod Вход/выход O t sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе Bilyet  Билет Tuda i obrat obratno no Туда и обратно Vkhod Вход запрещен

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да Hello Zdrastvui te Здравствуйте Goodbye Dasvidani ya До свидания Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Sorry/excuse Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understandYa ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak  Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю поRussian pa-russky  русски Do you speak  Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите поEnglish? anglisky? английски? Help! Pomogi t ye! Помогите! Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! I need some some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна pomoshch помошь I do don't wa wan t Ya ne ne kh kha cchh u Я не хочу  I (do (don' n't) t) like i ke it Mnye Mnye (ne) (ne) nrav nravits itsaa Мне (не)

нравиться May I? Mozhno? Можно? У вас есть...? Do you you have have... ...?? U vas vas est… est…?? I do don't kn kn ow ow Ya ne ne zn zn ay ayu Я не знаю How much much is it? Skolko Skolko stoit? stoit? Сколько стоит? It's It's expe expensi nsive ve!! Eta Eta dorog dorogo! o! Это дорого! M oorre/l es es s Yesh o/ o/men sh sh e Еще/меньше Larg Large/ e/sm smal all Bols Bolsho hoy/ y/ma male lenk nky  y  Большой/  маленкий G oo oo dd//ba d Kh or orosh o/ o/pl ok okh o Хорошо/плохо I t h ur ts ! Boln o! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра Could you write it  Zapishite Запишите, down? pazhalusta пожалуйста Toilets Tual et   Туалет Stop here here please Ostanavite Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста When? At what  Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во time? сколько? What time is it? Katory Katory chas? chas? Который час? Who? Kto? Кто? How do you say  Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? N o probl em em B ez ez pro bbll em em Без проблем O f course Koneshno Конечно Let's go together! Davay vmeste! vmeste! Давай вместе! С праздником! Happy Happy Holidays! d ays! S Praznikom! k om! In the restaurant/bar

B il l P le aass e

Getting around

Не курить

06:30 - 23:30. Eurolines Russia Nab. Obvodnogo Kanala 118 (busi-

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

Culture Cul ture & events Useful Phrases

Numbers

City Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvodnogo kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal. ru Tickets for domestic and international buses. QOpen

(+7) 812 600 12 13, www.avis-rentacar.ru. Europcar D-3, Pulkovo 2, arriving hall, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 35 36, www.europcar.ru.

lAnGuAGe

Most film fans will no doubt have seen at least one of the many Krepky Oreshek films starring Bruce Willis, usually  known in the English-speaking world as Die Hard. Krepky is related to the group of Russian words with the root ‘ krep ’ - such as ‘krepost’ meaning fortress, and an oreshek is a nut, which produces the literal translati on ‘hard nut’. So, Bruce Willis, Sylvester Stallone and all of the other tough guy types are what Russians would call ‘hard nuts’ - don’t  mess with them...

Buses

AVIS Russia Car Rental F-4, Pl. Aleksandra Nevskogo 2, podezd 3, M Pl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel.

Vladimir Putin is elected Russian President for the third time.

Pocket dictionary: Krepky Oreshek 

Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Ga tchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo. Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow. Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.

Car Rental

2012

10

Train Stations

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Another local boy, Dmitry Medvedev is elected President in March 2008 with overwhelming support. The constitution is changed to lengthen the Presidential term to 6 years.

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Buying Tickets If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they  are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t  be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking  pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. At some stations there are also now self-service machines where you can buy and print out ti ckets yourself using a bank  card. Don’t forget to bring your passport with you as they  need it to print you passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation. If you lose your ticket it is possible to get  a new one printed at the special counter by bringing along  your passport and details of the train.

ness centre Admiral), MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.

2008 - 2012

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

S hc hc ho ho t pa zh zh al al us us ta ta Счет,

пожалуйста Я вегетарианец Сухое/сладеое (вино) Красное/белое (вино) Бизнес-ланч Место свободно? 2 be beer erss plea please se Dva Dva piv pivaa Два пива, pazhalusta пожалуйста (Non) smoking  (Ne) kuryashchee (Не) курящее place mesto место Ta bl bl e wa te ter P itit ye ye va va ya ya /   Питьевая/  stolovaya voda столовая вода Meat M yaso Мясо Nu t s Orekhi Орехи I am allergic allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергия Ver y tas ty ty! O ch ch en en vvkku sn sn o! o! Очень вкусно!

I am a vegetarian Dry/sweet (for  wine) Red/White (for  wine) Set lunch lunch menu menu Is this seat seat free?

Ya vegetarianets Sukhoe/sladkoe (vino) Krasnoe/byeloe (vino) Bizness Bizness lanch a nch Mesto svobodno? svobodno?

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

9

Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing  it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus per formance any and every night you choose.

Concert Halls Grand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www. philharmonia.spb.ru

Jaani Kirik Concert Hall (JKCH) A-2, Ul. Dekabristov 54, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.  jaanikirik.ru Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) С-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.  jazz-hall.spb.ru. JFC Jazz Club (JFC) B-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club. spb.ru. Maltese Capella, Vorontsovsky Palace (MC) D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 26, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 610 33 28, www.maltacapella.ru. Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, ww w. bkz.sp.ru. Mariinsky Concert Hall (MCH) C-4, Ul. Dekabristov 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www. mariinsky.ru. Saint Petersburg Opera (SPO) C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www. spbopera.ru. State Academic Capella (SAC) B-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 10 58, www.capellaspb.ru

Alexandrinsky Theatre (AT) E-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, M Nevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-4, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre (MIT) D-3, Pl. Iskusstv 1, M Nevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, www. mikhailovsky.ru. State Theatre of Music Comedy (MCT) D-3, ul. Italianskaya 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76

Venues

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Bridge

Dvor tsovy Blagove a goveshc shchen hensky sky S am amps on on ie vs vs ky ky Grenadersk y Kan te temi ro rovsk y Troi tsky Li teiny Birjevoy Tu tchkov Bolsheokh titinsk y Volodarsk y Alex Alexan andr draa Nevs Nevsko kogo go Finl yandsk y

Drawing

1:05 - 4:50 1:25 1:25 - 2:45 2:45,, 2 :1 0 - 2 :45 , 2:45 - 3:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 1:35 - 4:50 1:40 - 4:45 2:00 - 4:55 2:00 - 2:55, 2:00 - 5: 5:00 2:00 - 3:45, 2:20 2 0 - 5:1 5:10 0 2:20 - 5:30

3:10 3:10 - 5:00 5:00 3 :3 0 - 4: 25 25 4:20 - 4:50 4:20 - 4:50

3:35 - 4:55 4:15 - 5:45

October events Throught 25.10 Thursday Window on the Netherlands  Various venues, check official webside for details, tel. (+7) 812 334 02 00, stpetersburg.nlconsulate.org. Since

2006 the Dutch consulate in St. Petersburg has continued to celebrate the ties between Russia and Holland which date back to Peter the Great‘s visit to the Netherlands in the 18th Century with this special festival of all things Dutch. The Window on the Netherlands season includes scientific and social sciences lectures, photography workshops, exhibitions, concerts, fashion shows, theatre productions and film screenings. At the Dutch consulate website you can find a  full list in English of all the events which will be taking place. 03.10 Wednesday 20:00 Nneka 

Theatres

Gran d Philharmoni c Hall Imperial Hermi ta ge Th eatre Jaani Kirik Concer t Hall Ja z z Philharmonic Hall JFC Jaz z Club Mariinsk y Con cer t Hall Mariinsk y Thea tre Mikhailovsk y Theatre Saint Petersburg Opera Small Philharmonic Hall State Academic Capella Sta te te Th Th ea eatre of of Mu Musi c Comed y

Bridges Opening Schedule

GPH IHT JKCH JPH JFC   MCH M AT MIT SPO SPH SAC  M CT

C-3, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. nnekaworld.com. Nigerian singer Nneka, who sings in both

English and the native language of the Igbo people, is a truly captivating performer who has captured the hearts of  many in Europe and Africa and is currently being touted as the best thing to hit the neo-soul scene in years. Her music mixes elements of hip-hop, dub, reggae and soul with an addictive afrobeat, topped off with huge amounts of raw emotion and deep lyrics which tell the story of the modern African struggle. Her performances are mesmerising and completely heartfelt typically  casting a spell over her enraptured audiences. Don‘t miss it. Q Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl. 03.10 Wednesday - 07.10 Sunday Manhattan film festival  D-3, Aurora cinema, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 80 20, w ww.tourdefilm.ru. Like playing film critic? How about this one th en - you get to watch some of this year‘s most compelling short films made by directors from across the world and then decide which one is the best. With film showings in over 150 cities internationally, festival attendees and moviegoers are given voting cards upon entry to all venues. You can be harsh, you can be kind, your opinion counts no matter  what - just like a real critic. Films will be shown in their original language and the selection includes films from Norway, the Netherlands, Russia, Britain, Peru, France, Romania, USA and Spain. Q For the schedule check the website. October - November 2012

11

Culture Cul ture & events

lAnGuAGe

10

Useful Phrases Basic phrases

Pocket dictionary: Krepky Oreshek  Most film fans will no doubt have seen at least one of the many Krepky Oreshek films starring Bruce Willis, usually  known in the English-speaking world as Die Hard. Krepky is related to the group of Russian words with the root ‘ krep ’ - such as ‘krepost’ meaning fortress, and an oreshek is a nut, which produces the literal translati on ‘hard nut’. So, Bruce Willis, Sylvester Stallone and all of the other tough guy types are what Russians would call ‘hard nuts’ - don’t  mess with them...

Numbers 1 adin 12 2 dva 13 3 tri 14 4 chet yr yre 15 5 pya t 16 6 shest 17 7 sem 18 8 vo se sem 1 9 9 dev ya t 20 10 desya t 30 11 adin adinat atsa satt 40

d vina tsa t trinatsat ch et yrna tsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semna tsa t vosemnatsat d ev ev ya ya tn tn aatt sa sa t dvatsat tri ts tsat   soro sorok  k 

50 pyatdesya t   60 sh esdesyat   70 semdesya t   80 vosemdesyat   90 devyanosta 100 sto 500 pyatsot   1 00 000 t ys ys ic ich a 2000 d ve ve tysyachi

Gdye…? Gdye…? Eta dal eko? Napra vvoo/n al al ye yevo Pryam Pryamoo Ka ss ssa Otkryt Otkryto/ o/za zakry kryto to

Entra Entrance nce/e /exit xit Push/pull Ticket Retu Return rn (tic (ticke ket) t) Entrance  forbidden No smoking

zapreshchon Ne kuri t  

нравиться May I? Mozhno? Можно? У вас есть...? Do you you have have... ...?? U vas vas est… est…?? I do don't kn kn ow ow Ya ne ne zn zn ay ayu Я не знаю How much much is it? Skolko Skolko stoit? stoit? Сколько стоит? It's It's expe expensi nsive ve!! Eta Eta dorog dorogo! o! Это дорого! M oorre/l es es s Yesh o/ o/men sh sh e Еще/меньше Larg Large/ e/sm smal all Bols Bolsho hoy/ y/ma male lenk nky  y  Большой/  маленкий G oo oo dd//ba d Kh or orosh o/ o/pl ok okh o Хорошо/плохо I t h ur ts ! Boln o! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра Could you write it  Zapishite Запишите, down? pazhalusta пожалуйста Toilets Tual et   Туалет Stop here here please Ostanavite Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста When? At what  Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во time? сколько? What time is it? Katory Katory chas? chas? Который час? Who? Kto? Кто? How do you say  Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? N o probl em em B ez ez pro bbll em em Без проблем O f course Koneshno Конечно Let's go together! Davay vmeste! vmeste! Давай вместе! С праздником! Happy Happy Holidays! d ays! S Praznikom! k om! In the restaurant/bar

B il l P le aass e

Getting around Where Where is the…? the…? Is i t far? Ri gh gh t/ t/l ef ef t Stra Straigh ightt ahead ahead Ti ck cket of offi ce ce Open Open/c /clo lose sedd

No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да Hello Zdrastvui te Здравствуйте Goodbye Dasvidani ya До свидания Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Sorry/excuse Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understandYa ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak  Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю поRussian pa-russky  русски Do you speak  Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите поEnglish? anglisky? английски? Help! Pomogi t ye! Помогите! Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! I need some some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна pomoshch помошь I do don't wa wan t Ya ne ne kh kha cchh u Я не хочу  I (do (don' n't) t) like i ke it Mnye Mnye (ne) (ne) nrav nravits itsaa Мне (не)

Где…? Это далеко? Направо/налево Прямо Касса Открыто/  закрыто Vkhod Vkhod/V /Vyk ykhod hod Вход/выход O t sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе Bilyet  Билет Tuda i obrat obratno no Туда и обратно Vkhod Вход запрещен Не курить

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

S hc hc ho ho t pa zh zh al al us us ta ta Счет,

пожалуйста Я вегетарианец Сухое/сладеое (вино) Красное/белое (вино) Бизнес-ланч Место свободно? 2 be beer erss plea please se Dva Dva piv pivaa Два пива, pazhalusta пожалуйста (Non) smoking  (Ne) kuryashchee (Не) курящее place mesto место Ta bl bl e wa te ter P itit ye ye va va ya ya /   Питьевая/  stolovaya voda столовая вода Meat M yaso Мясо Nu t s Orekhi Орехи I am allergic allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергия Ver y tas ty ty! O ch ch en en vvkku sn sn o! o! Очень вкусно!

I am a vegetarian Dry/sweet (for  wine) Red/White (for  wine) Set lunch lunch menu menu Is this seat seat free?

Ya vegetarianets Sukhoe/sladkoe (vino) Krasnoe/byeloe (vino) Bizness Bizness lanch a nch Mesto svobodno? svobodno?

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing  it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus per formance any and every night you choose.

Concert Halls Grand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www. philharmonia.spb.ru

Jaani Kirik Concert Hall (JKCH) A-2, Ul. Dekabristov 54, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.  jaanikirik.ru Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) С-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.  jazz-hall.spb.ru. JFC Jazz Club (JFC) B-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club. spb.ru. Maltese Capella, Vorontsovsky Palace (MC) D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 26, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 610 33 28, www.maltacapella.ru. Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, ww w. bkz.sp.ru. Mariinsky Concert Hall (MCH) C-4, Ul. Dekabristov 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www. mariinsky.ru. Saint Petersburg Opera (SPO) C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www. spbopera.ru. State Academic Capella (SAC) B-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 10 58, www.capellaspb.ru

Alexandrinsky Theatre (AT) E-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, M Nevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-4, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre (MIT) D-3, Pl. Iskusstv 1, M Nevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, www. mikhailovsky.ru. State Theatre of Music Comedy (MCT) D-3, ul. Italianskaya 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76

Venues GPH IHT JKCH JPH JFC   MCH M AT MIT SPO SPH SAC  M CT

07.10 Sunday 19:00 Tango Passion 

26.10 Friday 20:00 Therion 

Oct

DK Gorkogo, Pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo.spb.ru. The passion

D-4, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.megatherion.com. The

Time

Event

Tosca M y Fair Lad y

Venue

MIT MAT

14 14 16 18 19, 21 20 23, 24 25

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

26 26, 27, 28 27 28 30 31

19:00 19:00

Stars of Romanian Opera GPH Don Giovanni MAT Rusalka MIT La Bohème MIT Tosca MAT Th e Love for Three MAT Oranges Aida MAT Le noz ze di Figaro MCH Pelléas et Mélisande MAT Don Giovanni MAT Aida MCH Eugene Onegin MAT Boris Godunov MAT L´h eu eu re re espa gn gn ol ol e. e. Gianni MCH Schicchi Die Zauber flöte MCH Eugene Onegin MIT

18:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

Ruslan and Lyudmila Prince Igor Les con tes d'Hoffmann Th e En ch chan te ted Wan de derer

Nov

Time

01 01 04 10 13 14 14 15 16 18

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 12:00

20 20 20 22 23 24 27 30

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 13:00 19:00 19:00

Event

Un ballo in maschera La Bohème Mazepa Eugene Onegin Le noz ze di Figaro Rusalka A li fe for the Tsar Tosca La Bohème Th e Love for Three Oranges La travia ta Idomeneo, rè di Creta Opera Gala La travia ta Madama Bu t ter fl y Iolan ta L`elisisr d` d`amore Th e Queen of Spades

MAT MAT MAT MCH

Rota and Morriсone with the highlight of the event being 

a passionate performance of Rodriguez‘s La Cumparsita. Adding to the romantic atmosphere the whole hall will be decorated with thousands of fresh flowers. Q Tickets 600 - 2, 5000 Rbl.

E-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 363 33 33, www.yanntiersen.com. Take some  folkloric French harmoni es, stir in some Chopin cla ssicism and top of with post-punk references and voila! You‘ll have Yann Tiersen. After nine albums and three soundtracks his work for the French film Amelie is still the one that  has provided him his widespread recognition outside of  France. He plays piano, violin, cello and accordion amongst  other musical instruments and if you know him only   from t he film pr epare to be surprised by a lot of layered electronic sounds. Q Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl.

Swedish lords of symphonic metal Therion are now embarking  on their 25 anniversary tour titled Flowers of Evil . Combining  a full orchestra with songs inspired by mythology, magic and the occult, Therion‘s performances are beloved of those who like the mystical darkside of the metal scene. Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,000Rbl.

17.10 Wednesday 20:00 Aura Dione  C-3, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. auradione.com. A Danish singer-songwriter, Aura also has

Faroese, Spanish and French roots which can be se en in her  unusual look as well as heard in her ethno influenced dancepop sound. Although i t‘s quite a stretch to suggest that she‘s a ‘Danish Shakira‘ or Europe‘s answer to Nelly Furtado, but  there‘s no denying her pop credentials in mainland Europe with recent hits such as Geronimo sweeping the airwaves. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,500Rbl.

Venue

06.10 Saturday 20:00 Yann Tiersen 

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

and fire of Argentine tango will come to Russia this month with this special one-off show featuring numerous top dancers and musicians including Mariinsky theatre soprano soloist Larisa Elina. The musical repertoire will include the most famous works by the likes of Gardel, Piazzolla,

MIH MAT MAT MIH MCH MIH MAT MIH MIH MAT MIH MAT GPH MAT MAT MIH MIH MIH

Dvor tsovy Blagove a goveshc shchen hensky sky S am amps on on ie vs vs ky ky Grenadersk y Kan te temi ro rovsk y Troi tsky Li teiny Birjevoy Tu tchkov Bolsheokh titinsk y Volodarsk y Alex Alexan andr draa Nevs Nevsko kogo go Finl yandsk y

Drawing

1:05 - 4:50 1:25 1:25 - 2:45 2:45,, 2 :1 0 - 2 :45 , 2:45 - 3:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 1:35 - 4:50 1:40 - 4:45 2:00 - 4:55 2:00 - 2:55, 2:00 - 5: 5:00 2:00 - 3:45, 2:20 2 0 - 5:1 5:10 0 2:20 - 5:30

3:10 3:10 - 5:00 5:00 3 :3 0 - 4: 25 25 4:20 - 4:50 4:20 - 4:50

3:35 - 4:55 4:15 - 5:45

October events Throught 25.10 Thursday Window on the Netherlands  Various venues, check official webside for details, tel. (+7) 812 334 02 00, stpetersburg.nlconsulate.org. Since

2006 the Dutch consulate in St. Petersburg has continued to celebrate the ties between Russia and Holland which date back to Peter the Great‘s visit to the Netherlands in the 18th Century with this special festival of all things Dutch. The Window on the Netherlands season includes scientific and social sciences lectures, photography workshops, exhibitions, concerts, fashion shows, theatre productions and film screenings. At the Dutch consulate website you can find a  full list in English of all the events which will be taking place.

C-3, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. nnekaworld.com. Nigerian singer Nneka, who sings in both

English and the native language of the Igbo people, is a truly captivating performer who has captured the hearts of  many in Europe and Africa and is currently being touted as the best thing to hit the neo-soul scene in years. Her music mixes elements of hip-hop, dub, reggae and soul with an addictive afrobeat, topped off with huge amounts of raw emotion and deep lyrics which tell the story of the modern African struggle. Her performances are mesmerising and completely heartfelt typically  casting a spell over her enraptured audiences. Don‘t miss it. Q Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl. 03.10 Wednesday - 07.10 Sunday Manhattan film festival  D-3, Aurora cinema, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 80 20, w ww.tourdefilm.ru. Like playing film critic? How about this one th en - you get to watch some of this year‘s most compelling short films made by directors from across the world and then decide which one is the best. With film showings in over 150 cities internationally, festival attendees and moviegoers are given voting cards upon entry to all venues. You can be harsh, you can be kind, your opinion counts no matter  what - just like a real critic. Films will be shown in their original language and the selection includes films from Norway, the Netherlands, Russia, Britain, Peru, France, Romania, USA and Spain. Q For the schedule check the website. October - November 2012

Culture & events

Opera and Operetta 02 19:00 04 - 07 07 15:00, 0 0, 20:00 07 19:00 18 19:00 09 19:00 12 19:00 12 19:00 13 20:00

Bridge

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Culture & events

12

Bridges Opening Schedule

03.10 Wednesday 20:00 Nneka 

Theatres

Gran d Philharmoni c Hall Imperial Hermi ta ge Th eatre Jaani Kirik Concer t Hall Ja z z Philharmonic Hall JFC Jaz z Club Mariinsk y Con cer t Hall Mariinsk y Thea tre Mikhailovsk y Theatre Saint Petersburg Opera Small Philharmonic Hall State Academic Capella Sta te te Th Th ea eatre of of Mu Musi c Comed y

20.10 Saturday 19:00 Dubex festival  B-1, A2 Club, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.fbits.ru. The festival of experimental

electronic music is a n ew one for St. Petersburg but builds on the city‘s history of underground music festivals celebrating  experimental ethno and electro music. The headline act is the dark dubstep and trip-hop artist Emika who is now signed to the highly respected Ninja Tune label. She will be joined on th e lineup by fell British act Clubroot as well as Russian shoe-gazers I am waiting for you last summer and an amazing jazz/hip-hop influenced local act Long Arm. Q Tickets TBA.

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

Side by Side Festival 25.10 Thursday - 03.11 Saturday Various venues, check website for details, www.boko-bok.ru. Russia‘s only LGBT film festival, Side by Side

is gearing up for its fifth season of film and discussion. Operating in a climate which is quite frankly rather hostile towards the expression of gay and bisexual lifestyles, the festival is an important platform for discussion and tolerance and attracts large audiences from both gay and straight communities. International supporters of the festival include such cultural icons as Stephen Fry, Alexander  Sokurov, Pedro Almodovar, Gus Van Sant and Ken Loach as well as numerous consulates. The festival includes short, documentary an d feature films from across the world, with many directors in attendance for question and answer sessions and discussion. Q Tickets 150 - 250Rbl. Oct Ti Time

27.10 Saturday 19:00 Deep Purple 

25

19:00

Ledovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.deeppurple.com. They‘vebeen

26

19:0 19:00 0

together for an incredible 42 years and have recorded a whopping 19 records. But despite all their years of hard work, for  most Russians it‘s Smoke on the Water that remains Deep Purple‘s defining moment. Pioneers of the hard rock movement, the band inspired dozens of other bands during their  time and also functioned as idols for many a budding guitarist  including the Russian Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev. The  former President counts the ban d as his all time favourite and will no doubt be somewhere in the crowd enjoying this stadium gig. Q Tickets 800 - 3,000Rbl.

27.10 Saturday 20:00 Brainstorm  C-3, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. brainstorm.lv. Latvian power metal band who are legendary 

in Eastern Europe for their distinctive brand of soft rock sun g  in English, Russian and Latvian. They edged in on international  fame in 2000 with with their Eurovision performance of their most  pop-friendly song My Star, although it is safe to say that their  biggest fan base is found in Russia and the Baltic states. Q Tickets 900 - 3,000Rbl.

26

21:3 21:30 0

27

16:0 16:00 0

27

18:1 18:15 5

27

21:3 21:30 0

28

17:0 17:00 0

28

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28

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29

19:3 19:30 0

29

21:1 21:15 5

30

19:3 19:30 0

31

20:0 20:00 0

Nov Ti Time

1

1 9: 9: 30 30

2

20:0 20:00 0

3 3 3

16:00 18:15 20:0 20:00 0

Event Opening Ceremony + Young 

AH

Venue

Event

Venue

& Wild (Marial y Rivas, Chile, 2012) Our Our Stor Storyy - 1010-ye year ar Gue Guerr rrililla l a ZL  Warfare of Beijing Queer Film Festival (Yang Yang, China, 2011) Spri Spring ng Feve Feverr (Ye (Ye Lou, Lou, Chin China, a, ZL  2009) For For YYou ou Nak Naked ed (Sar (Saraa Broo Broos, s, ZD Sweden, 2012) Call Call Me Kuchu uchu (Kat (Kathe heri rine ne ZD Fairfax Wright, Malika ZouhaliWorrall, USA/Uganda, 2012) Latin Latin Mix: Mix: Short Short film filmss from from latin latin ZD America Code Codebr brea eake kerr (Cla (Clare re Beav Beavan an,, ZD Nic Stacey, UK, 2011) Week Weekend end ((And ((Andre rew w Haigh Haigh,, UK, UK, ZD 2011, 96 min) Not Not a Man Man in Sig Sight ht (Met (Mette te ZD Aakerholm Gardell, Sweden, 2012) Invisi Invisibl b le Men (Yar (Yariv iv Moze Mozerr, LC  Israel, 2012) Yossi ossi (Et (Etya yann Fox Fox,, Israe s rael,l, 2012 2012,, LC  84 min) Coll Collec ecti tion on of of Russ Russia iann Films: l ms: ZD Nachalo Beau Beauty ty (Oliv (Oliver er Herm Herman anus us,, LC  South Africa, France, Germany, 2011) O ut ut ra ra ge ge ( Ki Ki rb rb y D ick , U SA SA , ZL  2009) I am a Wom Woman an Now Now (Mic (Michi hiel el van ZD Erp, Netherlands, 2011) World Shor ts ts AHA   Una Noche AHA   Closin o singg Cere Ceremo mony ny and and Awar Awards ds AHA 

Angleterre Hotel Conference Hall (AH) C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, (+7) 812

20.10 Saturday 21:00 World of Drum n Bass  В-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.wodb.ru. Partying on all the way to sunrise, the annual World of Drum and Bass party  is a loud and energetic evening evening of hard and fast pounding  bass and beats. The event always attracts top D‘n‘B DJs  from the UK, Europe and the USA and th e organisers make sure there‘s plenty of entertainment in additi on to the music. Q Tickets 1,700Rbl.

494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com Ligov Cinema (LC) Ligovsky pr. 153, MObvodny kanal, www.karofilm.ru Zelenaya Lampa (ZL) C-2, Bankovsky per. 5, MNevsky pr., (+7) 812 406 93 86, www.greenlamp. spb.ru Zona Deistviya (ZD) D-3, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., (+7) 904 639 42 36, www.zonaspace.ru

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

11

October - November 2012

13

Culture & events

12

Culture & events

Opera and Operetta

07.10 Sunday 19:00 Tango Passion 

26.10 Friday 20:00 Therion 

Oct

DK Gorkogo, Pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo.spb.ru. The passion

D-4, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.megatherion.com. The

Time

02 19:00 04 - 07 07 15:00, 0 0, 20:00 07 19:00 18 19:00 09 19:00 12 19:00 12 19:00 13 20:00

Event

Tosca M y Fair Lad y

Venue

MIT MAT

14 14 16 18 19, 21 20 23, 24 25

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

26 26, 27, 28 27 28 30 31

19:00 19:00

Stars of Romanian Opera GPH Don Giovanni MAT Rusalka MIT La Bohème MIT Tosca MAT Th e Love for Three MAT Oranges Aida MAT Le noz ze di Figaro MCH Pelléas et Mélisande MAT Don Giovanni MAT Aida MCH Eugene Onegin MAT Boris Godunov MAT L´h eu eu re re espa gn gn ol ol e. e. Gianni MCH Schicchi Die Zauber flöte MCH Eugene Onegin MIT

18:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

Ruslan and Lyudmila Prince Igor Les con tes d'Hoffmann Th e En ch chan te ted Wan de derer

Nov

Time

01 01 04 10 13 14 14 15 16 18

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 12:00

20 20 20 22 23 24 27 30

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 13:00 19:00 19:00

Event

Un ballo in maschera La Bohème Mazepa Eugene Onegin Le noz ze di Figaro Rusalka A li fe for the Tsar Tosca La Bohème Th e Love for Three Oranges La travia ta Idomeneo, rè di Creta Opera Gala La travia ta Madama Bu t ter fl y Iolan ta L`elisisr d` d`amore Th e Queen of Spades

MAT MAT MAT MCH

and fire of Argentine tango will come to Russia this month with this special one-off show featuring numerous top dancers and musicians including Mariinsky theatre soprano soloist Larisa Elina. The musical repertoire will include the most famous works by the likes of Gardel, Piazzolla, Rota and Morriсone with the highlight of the event being 

a passionate performance of Rodriguez‘s La Cumparsita. Adding to the romantic atmosphere the whole hall will be decorated with thousands of fresh flowers. Q Tickets 600 - 2, 5000 Rbl. 17.10 Wednesday 20:00 Aura Dione 

C-3, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. auradione.com. A Danish singer-songwriter, Aura also has

Faroese, Spanish and French roots which can be se en in her  unusual look as well as heard in her ethno influenced dancepop sound. Although i t‘s quite a stretch to suggest that she‘s a ‘Danish Shakira‘ or Europe‘s answer to Nelly Furtado, but  there‘s no denying her pop credentials in mainland Europe with recent hits such as Geronimo sweeping the airwaves. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,500Rbl.

Venue

MIH MAT MAT MIH MCH MIH MAT MIH MIH MAT MIH MAT GPH MAT MAT MIH MIH MIH

06.10 Saturday 20:00 Yann Tiersen  E-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 363 33 33, www.yanntiersen.com. Take some  folkloric French harmoni es, stir in some Chopin cla ssicism and top of with post-punk references and voila! You‘ll have Yann Tiersen. After nine albums and three soundtracks his work for the French film Amelie is still the one that  has provided him his widespread recognition outside of  France. He plays piano, violin, cello and accordion amongst  other musical instruments and if you know him only   from t he film pr epare to be surprised by a lot of layered electronic sounds. Q Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl.

Swedish lords of symphonic metal Therion are now embarking  on their 25 anniversary tour titled Flowers of Evil . Combining  a full orchestra with songs inspired by mythology, magic and the occult, Therion‘s performances are beloved of those who like the mystical darkside of the metal scene. Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,000Rbl.

20.10 Saturday 19:00 Dubex festival  B-1, A2 Club, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.fbits.ru. The festival of experimental

electronic music is a n ew one for St. Petersburg but builds on the city‘s history of underground music festivals celebrating  experimental ethno and electro music. The headline act is the dark dubstep and trip-hop artist Emika who is now signed to the highly respected Ninja Tune label. She will be joined on th e lineup by fell British act Clubroot as well as Russian shoe-gazers I am waiting for you last summer and an amazing jazz/hip-hop influenced local act Long Arm. Q Tickets TBA.

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Oct

03 - 05 04, 09 07

Time

07, 09

19:00 19:30 13:00, 19:00 19:00

10 10, 10, 11, 11, 13

19:00 19:0 19:00 0

10, 14, 17, 19, 21, 24 11 13

20:00 19:00 19:00

14

11:30

17 19, 28 2 5, 5, 26 26 , 2 7

19:00 19:00 19 :00

29

19:00

31 30, 31

20:00 19:00

Nov

Time

03

19:00

03, 04

19:00

04, 15

11:30, 19:00 19:00 13:00, 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

08 11, 25 17, 18 23 28, 29

Event

La Bayadère Swan Lake Cipollino

Venue

MIH IHT MIH

Carmen Sui te. MCH Divertissement  Romeo and Juliet MAT Mult Multip iplilici city ty.. For Forms ms of  MIH Silence and Emptiness Swan Lake MCT Giselle Carmen Sui te. Le Carnaval Th e Foun tain of   Bakhchisarai Giselle Don Qui xote A Mi Mi ds dsu mm mm er er Ni Ni gh gh t’t’ s Dream Carmen Sui te. Act II  from the ballet Giselle La Sylphide Wi th thou t Words. Nunc Dimittis. Event

MAT MCH MAT MAT MAT MAT MAT MIH MIH Venue

Wi thou t Words. Nunc Dimittis. Kings of the Dance. The Best  The Fountain of  Bakhchisarai Giselle, ou Les Wilis Cipollino

MIH

MIH MIH

Laurencia Swan Lake La Sylphide

MIH MIH MIH

MIH MAT

November events 01.11 Thursday 20:00 IAMX  C-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.iamx.eu. IAMX is the solo

project of Chris Corner formerly of the British electronic band Sneaker Pimps. Not as commercially successful as his previous job but creatively liberating, under the guise of  IAMX Chris has embraced the chance to move to Berlin and do whatever the heck he wants. The result has been some highly theatrical electronic rock music accompanied by dark  androgynous and outlandish costumes typical of the Berlin indietronica scene. Q Tickets 900 - 2,500Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

is gearing up for its fifth season of film and discussion. Operating in a climate which is quite frankly rather hostile towards the expression of gay and bisexual lifestyles, the festival is an important platform for discussion and tolerance and attracts large audiences from both gay and straight communities. International supporters of the festival include such cultural icons as Stephen Fry, Alexander  Sokurov, Pedro Almodovar, Gus Van Sant and Ken Loach as well as numerous consulates. The festival includes short, documentary an d feature films from across the world, with many directors in attendance for question and answer sessions and discussion. Q Tickets 150 - 250Rbl. 19:00

Ledovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.deeppurple.com. They‘vebeen

26

19:0 19:00 0

27.10 Saturday 20:00 Brainstorm  C-3, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. brainstorm.lv. Latvian power metal band who are legendary 

in Eastern Europe for their distinctive brand of soft rock sun g  in English, Russian and Latvian. They edged in on international  fame in 2000 with with their Eurovision performance of their most  pop-friendly song My Star, although it is safe to say that their  biggest fan base is found in Russia and the Baltic states. Q Tickets 900 - 3,000Rbl.

26

21:3 21:30 0

27

16:0 16:00 0

27

18:1 18:15 5

27

21:3 21:30 0

28

17:0 17:00 0

28

19:0 19:00 0

28

21:0 21:00 0

29

19:3 19:30 0

29

21:1 21:15 5

30

19:3 19:30 0

31

20:0 20:00 0

Nov Ti Time

1

1 9: 9: 30 30

2

20:0 20:00 0

3 3 3

16:00 18:15 20:0 20:00 0

Event Opening Ceremony + Young 

AH

Venue

Event

Venue

& Wild (Marial y Rivas, Chile, 2012) Our Our Stor Storyy - 1010-ye year ar Gue Guerr rrililla l a ZL  Warfare of Beijing Queer Film Festival (Yang Yang, China, 2011) Spri Spring ng Feve Feverr (Ye (Ye Lou, Lou, Chin China, a, ZL  2009) For For YYou ou Nak Naked ed (Sar (Saraa Broo Broos, s, ZD Sweden, 2012) Call Call Me Kuchu uchu (Kat (Kathe heri rine ne ZD Fairfax Wright, Malika ZouhaliWorrall, USA/Uganda, 2012) Latin Latin Mix: Mix: Short Short film filmss from from latin latin ZD America Code Codebr brea eake kerr (Cla (Clare re Beav Beavan an,, ZD Nic Stacey, UK, 2011) Week Weekend end ((And ((Andre rew w Haigh Haigh,, UK, UK, ZD 2011, 96 min) Not Not a Man Man in Sig Sight ht (Met (Mette te ZD Aakerholm Gardell, Sweden, 2012) Invisi Invisibl b le Men (Yar (Yariv iv Moze Mozerr, LC  Israel, 2012) Yossi ossi (Et (Etya yann Fox Fox,, Israe s rael,l, 2012 2012,, LC  84 min) Coll Collec ecti tion on of of Russ Russia iann Films: l ms: ZD Nachalo Beau Beauty ty (Oliv (Oliver er Herm Herman anus us,, LC  South Africa, France, Germany, 2011) O ut ut ra ra ge ge ( Ki Ki rb rb y D ick , U SA SA , ZL  2009) I am a Wom Woman an Now Now (Mic (Michi hiel el van ZD Erp, Netherlands, 2011) World Shor ts ts AHA   Una Noche AHA   Closin o singg Cere Ceremo mony ny and and Awar Awards ds AHA 

Angleterre Hotel Conference Hall (AH) C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com Ligov Cinema (LC) Ligovsky pr. 153, MObvodny kanal, www.karofilm.ru Zelenaya Lampa (ZL) C-2, Bankovsky per. 5, MNevsky pr., (+7) 812 406 93 86, www.greenlamp. spb.ru Zona Deistviya (ZD) D-3, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., (+7) 904 639 42 36, www.zonaspace.ru

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

Culture & events 08.11 Thursday 20:00 Jennifer Lopez 

Ballet

Various venues, check website for details, www.boko-bok.ru. Russia‘s only LGBT film festival, Side by Side

25

Culture & events

14

25.10 Thursday - 03.11 Saturday

Oct Ti Time

20.10 Saturday 21:00 World of Drum n Bass  В-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.wodb.ru. Partying on all the way to sunrise, the annual World of Drum and Bass party  is a loud and energetic evening evening of hard and fast pounding  bass and beats. The event always attracts top D‘n‘B DJs  from the UK, Europe and the USA and th e organisers make sure there‘s plenty of entertainment in additi on to the music. Q Tickets 1,700Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Side by Side Festival

27.10 Saturday 19:00 Deep Purple 

together for an incredible 42 years and have recorded a whopping 19 records. But despite all their years of hard work, for  most Russians it‘s Smoke on the Water that remains Deep Purple‘s defining moment. Pioneers of the hard rock movement, the band inspired dozens of other bands during their  time and also functioned as idols for many a budding guitarist  including the Russian Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev. The  former President counts the ban d as his all time favourite and will no doubt be somewhere in the crowd enjoying this stadium gig. Q Tickets 800 - 3,000Rbl.

Sport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.jennif erlopez.com.

Personally personifying the word ‘bling‘ Jennifer Lopez (or J-Lo as she is sometimes known) often receives more headlines for  her extravagant personal styling and high profile relationships than her music or film career. However, in 2012 Jenny from the Block has been back wholeheartedly focusing on her music again releasing a greatest hits album and hitting the road with this tour to promote it. Her recent  releases such as the smash hit  On the Floor and Goin‘ In have seen her return to the dance beats of her early career. Q Tickets 1,200 - 12,000Rbl.

09.11 Friday - 11.11 Sunday Cirque du Soleil: Michael Jackson The Immor-  tal World Tour  Ledovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 821 380 80 50, www.cds.ru. Another family-friendly  visual extravaganza from the Cirque du S oleil team. Immortal is based around the hits of the late, great, Michael Jackson whose family have been collaborating with the Canadian circus group to create this incredible spectacle. The show features the greatest hits such as Thriller , Smooth Criminal , Bad  and Black or White  as a backdrop to incredible acrobatic moves and costumes loosely inspired by Jackson‘s music videos, but given the inimitable larger-than-life Cirque du Soleil treatment. Shows on 09.11 and 10.11 start at 19:00. The show on 11.11 starts a t 17:00. Q Tickets 2,000 - 5,500Rbl.

09.11 Friday 20:00 Garbage  B-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22,www.garbag e.com. Back from an incredibly 

long hiatus, this concert coincides with the release of the postpunk American/Scottish band‘s first album in seven years - the long awaited Not Your Kind of People. Remarkably this is already the second time this year that the band have visited Russia to play gigs, so something tells us they  must have had a very good time last time they were over. Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.

09.11 Friday 20:00 Mindless Self Indulgence  C-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.mindlessselfindulgence. com. The name says it all really. In case you are not already 

aware of them, MSL are a dark shock rock punk band - or as they personally prefer to describe their sound it‘s ‘industrial jungle-pussy-punk.‘ The band is best known for its provocative live performances having supported bands such as Korn and Rammstein amongst other big names. Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,000Rbl.

Trancemission 03.11 Saturday 23:00 Trancemission  B-1, A2 Club, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.radiorecord.ru. Transmis-

sion promises ‘a wave of trance‘ this autumn with its  famous all-night trance rave. In previous previous years the event  has attracted international DJs such as Paul van Dyck, Armin van Buuren and Above & Beyond. This year the headline act is the Dutch progressive-trance project  Dash Berlin famous for the hit track Waitin g. They will be  joined at the part y by DJs DJs Feel, Richard Durand and W & W. Q Tickets 700 - 1,200Rbl.

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

13

09.11 Friday - 11.11 Sunday Darwin the Dinosaur  Dom Kultury im. Gorkogo, Pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo.spb.ru. A light 

puppet show aimed at pre-teen kids which tells the stor y of a pet dinosaur named Darwin. A young dinosaur, Darwin begins to learn about the ways of the world and the other creatures of the prehistoric and modern animal kingdom. The show‘s American producers use neon lighting in ingenious ways to create living characters which light up the blacked out stage like a sketch cartoon. Q Tickets 500 - 1,500Rbl. 11.11 Sunday 20:00 Anneke van Giersbergen  C-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.annekevangiersbergen. com. The former lead singer of Dutch rock band The Gath-

ering, Dutchwoman Anneke has also sung with other bands such as Napalm Death, Within Temptation and Moonspell. Early this year she released her first solo album Everything  is Changing  in which she can be heard adopting a much more pop friendly sound as she launches a new solo career. Q Tickets 900 - 1,500Rbl. 17.11 Saturday - 18.11 Sunday 19:00 Turetsky‘s Choir  Ledovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 821 380 80 50, www.arthor.ru. Classically trained singer Mikhail Turetsky and his choir first grew to fame in the late 1980s when they played spiritual Judaic music for Moscow‘s Jewish community. As the 1990s wore on, the group began to add other styles to their reper toire training themselves to sing pop, classical, spiritual and nostalgic Broadway hits in a range of languages. The choir now combines real starquality stage presence with a broad musical repertoire to great success both at home and abroad. As this concert  marks Mikhail‘s 50th birthday  expect some extra special guests and performances. Q Tickets 1,500 - 12,000Rbl. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

15

Culture & events

14

08.11 Thursday 20:00 Jennifer Lopez 

Ballet Oct

03 - 05 04, 09 07

Time

07, 09

19:00 19:30 13:00, 19:00 19:00

10 10, 10, 11, 11, 13

19:00 19:0 19:00 0

10, 14, 17, 19, 21, 24 11 13

20:00 19:00 19:00

14

11:30

17 19, 28 2 5, 5, 26 26 , 2 7

19:00 19:00 19 :00

29

19:00

31 30, 31

20:00 19:00

Nov

Time

03

19:00

03, 04

19:00

04, 15

11:30, 19:00 19:00 13:00, 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

08 11, 25 17, 18 23 28, 29

Culture & events

Event

La Bayadère Swan Lake Cipollino

Venue

MIH IHT MIH

Carmen Sui te. MCH Divertissement  Romeo and Juliet MAT Mult Multip iplilici city ty.. For Forms ms of  MIH Silence and Emptiness Swan Lake MCT Giselle Carmen Sui te. Le Carnaval Th e Foun tain of   Bakhchisarai Giselle Don Qui xote A Mi Mi ds dsu mm mm er er Ni Ni gh gh t’t’ s Dream Carmen Sui te. Act II  from the ballet Giselle La Sylphide Wi th thou t Words. Nunc Dimittis. Event

MAT MCH MAT MAT MAT MAT MAT MIH MIH Venue

Wi thou t Words. Nunc Dimittis. Kings of the Dance. The Best  The Fountain of  Bakhchisarai Giselle, ou Les Wilis Cipollino

MIH

MIH MIH

Laurencia Swan Lake La Sylphide

MIH MIH MIH

MIH MAT

November events 01.11 Thursday 20:00 IAMX  C-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.iamx.eu. IAMX is the solo

project of Chris Corner formerly of the British electronic band Sneaker Pimps. Not as commercially successful as his previous job but creatively liberating, under the guise of  IAMX Chris has embraced the chance to move to Berlin and do whatever the heck he wants. The result has been some highly theatrical electronic rock music accompanied by dark  androgynous and outlandish costumes typical of the Berlin indietronica scene. Q Tickets 900 - 2,500Rbl.

Sport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.jennif erlopez.com.

Personally personifying the word ‘bling‘ Jennifer Lopez (or J-Lo as she is sometimes known) often receives more headlines for  her extravagant personal styling and high profile relationships than her music or film career. However, in 2012 Jenny from the Block has been back wholeheartedly focusing on her music again releasing a greatest hits album and hitting the road with this tour to promote it. Her recent  releases such as the smash hit  On the Floor and Goin‘ In have seen her return to the dance beats of her early career. Q Tickets 1,200 - 12,000Rbl.

09.11 Friday - 11.11 Sunday Cirque du Soleil: Michael Jackson The Immor-  tal World Tour  Ledovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 821 380 80 50, www.cds.ru. Another family-friendly  visual extravaganza from the Cirque du S oleil team. Immortal is based around the hits of the late, great, Michael Jackson whose family have been collaborating with the Canadian circus group to create this incredible spectacle. The show features the greatest hits such as Thriller , Smooth Criminal , Bad  and Black or White  as a backdrop to incredible acrobatic moves and costumes loosely inspired by Jackson‘s music videos, but given the inimitable larger-than-life Cirque du Soleil treatment. Shows on 09.11 and 10.11 start at 19:00. The show on 11.11 starts a t 17:00. Q Tickets 2,000 - 5,500Rbl.

09.11 Friday 20:00 Garbage  B-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22,www.garbag e.com. Back from an incredibly 

long hiatus, this concert coincides with the release of the postpunk American/Scottish band‘s first album in seven years - the long awaited Not Your Kind of People. Remarkably this is already the second time this year that the band have visited Russia to play gigs, so something tells us they  must have had a very good time last time they were over. Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.

09.11 Friday 20:00 Mindless Self Indulgence  C-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.mindlessselfindulgence. com. The name says it all really. In case you are not already 

aware of them, MSL are a dark shock rock punk band - or as they personally prefer to describe their sound it‘s ‘industrial jungle-pussy-punk.‘ The band is best known for its provocative live performances having supported bands such as Korn and Rammstein amongst other big names. Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,000Rbl.

Trancemission 03.11 Saturday 23:00 Trancemission  B-1, A2 Club, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.radiorecord.ru. Transmis-

sion promises ‘a wave of trance‘ this autumn with its  famous all-night trance rave. In previous previous years the event  has attracted international DJs such as Paul van Dyck, Armin van Buuren and Above & Beyond. This year the headline act is the Dutch progressive-trance project  Dash Berlin famous for the hit track Waitin g. They will be  joined at the part y by DJs DJs Feel, Richard Durand and W & W. Q Tickets 700 - 1,200Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

09.11 Friday - 11.11 Sunday Darwin the Dinosaur  Dom Kultury im. Gorkogo, Pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo.spb.ru. A light 

puppet show aimed at pre-teen kids which tells the stor y of a pet dinosaur named Darwin. A young dinosaur, Darwin begins to learn about the ways of the world and the other creatures of the prehistoric and modern animal kingdom. The show‘s American producers use neon lighting in ingenious ways to create living characters which light up the blacked out stage like a sketch cartoon. Q Tickets 500 - 1,500Rbl. 11.11 Sunday 20:00 Anneke van Giersbergen  C-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.annekevangiersbergen. com. The former lead singer of Dutch rock band The Gath-

ering, Dutchwoman Anneke has also sung with other bands such as Napalm Death, Within Temptation and Moonspell. Early this year she released her first solo album Everything  is Changing  in which she can be heard adopting a much more pop friendly sound as she launches a new solo career. Q Tickets 900 - 1,500Rbl. 17.11 Saturday - 18.11 Sunday 19:00 Turetsky‘s Choir  Ledovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 821 380 80 50, www.arthor.ru. Classically trained singer Mikhail Turetsky and his choir first grew to fame in the late 1980s when they played spiritual Judaic music for Moscow‘s Jewish community. As the 1990s wore on, the group began to add other styles to their reper toire training themselves to sing pop, classical, spiritual and nostalgic Broadway hits in a range of languages. The choir now combines real starquality stage presence with a broad musical repertoire to great success both at home and abroad. As this concert  marks Mikhail‘s 50th birthday  expect some extra special guests and performances. Q Tickets 1,500 - 12,000Rbl. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Culture & events

16

Oct T ime

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Event

Venue

Schumann, Bru ckner GPH Mozar t, Prokofiev GPH Nigel ke kennedy, viviolin GPH D eebbu ss ss y, Ra Ravel, Sc Schumann GPH Brahms, Gri eg, Sibelius GPH Ha yd ydn, M oozz ar ar t,t, B ee eeth ov oven GPH Howar Howard, d, Pagan Paganini ini, Kil Kilar, a r, Zim Zimme merr GPH GPH Org Organ rec recita ital.l. Matt Matteo eo Mes Messo sori ri GPH (Italy): Bach Rachmaninov GPH S ol ol oi oi st st s o f Kh an an ty ty- Ma Ma ns ns iyiys k M C CH H Sibelius, Brahms GPH Harlem Ch oir (USA) GPH Glinka i nka,, Rimsky m sky-K -Kor orsa sako kovv, GPH Shostakovich M aarr i ns ns ky ky T he he aatt re re MCH Symphony Orchestra Piano a no Rec Recit ital al. Barry Barry Doug Dougla lass GPH (Ireland) Bach, Haendel, Taneev GPH Rachmaninov GPH Beethoven, Mendelssohn GPH Mozar t GPH Rask Raskat atov ov, Schn Schnitt ittke ke,, GPH Tchaikovsky  Event

D-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 346 04 38, www.blazetheshow. com. This sensational street dance show brings together 

the world‘s best street dancers with top choreographers, lighting and set-designers to create an eye-popping dance extravaganza. The show features 16 dancers especially  chosen after rigorous auditioning, for their exceptional hip-hop and breakdance abilities. With the help of top choreographers and technicians such a s Es Devlin and Patri ck Woodroffe Woodroffe (who have helped in the production of shows for Lady Gaga and Michael Jackson to name a few) Blaze is a truly siz zling show  filled with incredible talent and showmanship. Q Tickets 1,200 - 3,000Rbl.

30.11 Friday 20:00 Scooter  B-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)

24.11 Saturday 19:00 Superdiskoteka  Sport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 928 10 63, ww w.radiorecord.ru.

Get your retro on with a few thousand other friends at this super-mega-retro-disco-danceatica in celebration of the 1990s. Tracks Tracks will be spun by a slew of Russian DJs who have only one goal in mind; to make you move, make you sweat  and make you holler for more Euro pop hits from yester year. Q Tickets 900 - 3,300Rbl.

Jazz Oct

24.11 Saturday Terem Quartet  D-2, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.teremquartet.ru. They might be a folk group, but you‘re not going 

to see a lot of tie dye and l ove beads on stage, these guys are  far too cool for that. Their instruments, like like their compositions, come deep from the heart of Russia and include a massive bass balalaika, an alto and soprano domra plus a bayan. Mixing classical and modern music they‘ve represented their  native St. Petersburg in cultural events all over the world and Peter Gabriel counts himself as a fan. Q Tickets TBA.

22.11 Thursday 

Bloc Party  C-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.blocparty.com. Most 

 famous for their raucous 2004 Brit rock album Silent Alarm, London-based indie-rock band Bloc Party have remained quiet for the last few years after unsuccessfully drifting into electronic music and working on various ‘side projects’. Happily in 2011 the band reformed and released a new album Four in late August 2012, which sees Bloc Party going back  to the guitar rock band roots which made their debut album such a winner. Q Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl. St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

25.11 Sunday 11:30 - 16:00 IWC‘s Winter Charity Bazaar  (Hotel Astoria)  C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, www.iwcstpete.com. The International Women‘s Club annual winter bazaar, is one of the biggest charity fundraisers of the year and a key event in the expat calendar. Year on year they have proven that they really do have one of the best raffles in the city, although it‘s not just about the prizes, there‘s plenty of other entertainment too. Food stalls, crafts, Christmas gifts, second-hand jumble and live music are also part of the event and best of all is that inn er-glow gained from knowing all the money you spend goes to help very worthy  local charities. Q Admission free.

812 309 99 22, www.scootertechno.com. By shouting  gloriously nonsensical l yrics such as; ‘I want you back so clean up the dish. By the way how much is the fish?‘ over inspired happy hardcore techno beats, Scooter aka H.P Baxter and his dance band have become Germany‘s most successful musical act ever. ever. Bleached blonde lead sin ger Baxter is known to be extremely energetic in spite of his advancing years and we imagine as usual he will be very demanding of the audience insisting that you move your ass and get on the floor - he likes it loud. Q Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl.

Venue

Vi valdi, Mendelssohn GPH Thoma Thomass Trotte rotterr. An An eve eveni ning ng of  of  MCH organ music Ha yd ydn, M oozz ar ar t,t, B ee eeth ov oven GPH Mozar t,t, Hen ze, Shuber t GPH Bach, Mozar t,t, Beethoven GPH Bach Bach,, Mend Mendel elssoh s sohn, n, Reg Reger er, GPH Reubke Th e Sta te te B or oro ddiin Quar te tet MC CH H Prokofi ev, Shostakovich GPH Vivald Vivalde, e, Paris Parishh Alv Alvar ars, s, Marc Marcel ello, l o,GPH Durante The Legend Legend of the Beautiful Beautiful MCH Syuimbike Glinka i nka,, Boro Borodi din, n , Scr Scrya yabi bin, n, GPH Tchaikovsky  N on on oo,, P et et ra ra ss ss i, R ot ot a, a, GPH Morricone Andr Andree eevv Imper m peria iall Rus Russi sian an GPH Orchestra Strauss GPH Tchaikovsk y Mu Musi c Da Day GPH Igor Bu tman GPH Org Organ Rec Recit ital al. Bach, Bach, Lem Lemar are, e, GPH Janka, Liszt, Vogt  Esto Estoni nian an Nat Natio iona nall Symp Sympho hony  ny  GPH Orchestra Mahl er GPH

October - November 2012

Culture & events 21.11 Wednesday - 25.11 Sunday Blaze The Show 

Classical Music

15

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

Buying Concert Tickets Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many  in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot  as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and some venues such as the Mariinsky Theatre also sell tickets online. There are also a numb er  of online services that allow you to reserve and/or  buy tickets online and most of them offer delivery  anywhere in the cit y for an additional fee. Tickets that  are reserved need to be purchased within three days or the reservation expires. Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit  card (MC/V). Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Time

Event

01, 02 19:00 JD Wal ter (USA) 03, 06, 19:00 0 0 Leningr Leningrad ad Dixieland e land Jazz Band Band 20, 27  05 19 :00 Sa xo xo ph ph on on e N ig ht ht : M ik ha ha il Kostushkin's Ensemble 06 19 :00 A . Su vo vo ro ro v B lu es es B an an d 08 19:00 Western Swing Four 10 19 :00 Ja zz zz Ph Phil ha har mo moni c Or ch ch es es trtra 11 19 :00 Fe do dor Ku Ku va vai ts tsev's ja zz zz ba ban d 12 19 :00 St at ate Ja Ja zz zz Mu Mu sisi c Ch am am be ber. Orchestra of O. Lundstrem 13 19 :00 Ea sy sy Wi Win ne ners Ra Ra gt gtim e Ban d 14 19:00 Peter Brainin (USA) 18 19:00 Daniel Kramer and Co 19 19 :00 C hihi zh zhi k J az az z Qu ar ar te te t a nd nd Frederik Konradsen 21 19 :00 L at at in Am Am er er ica n J az az z Ni gh gh t:t: Alexander Latin Band, Jazzdancing  22 19 :00 Ja zz zz an an d A rt rt Ro Ro ck ck . I . Ur ya ya sh sh, A. Malich 26 19:00 Jason Palmer (Boston) 28 19 :00 A frfr oo- Cu Cu ba ba n Ja Ja zz zz N ig ig ht ht: R itit mo mo Caliente, Jazz-dancing  31 19 :00 A tri bu bu te te to Grover   Washington, jr. 31 19:00 Ja zz zz Vi Violin an and Or Organ Ni Ni gh gh t

Venue

JFC   JPH JPH J FC FC   JFC   JPH JPH GPH

JFC   JFC   GPH JFC  JPH GPH JFC   JPH JFC  JPH

At the time of printing only October schedules were available for Jazz Philharmonic Hall and JFC Jaz z Club. For November schedule check the website.

October - November 2012

17

Culture & events

16

21.11 Wednesday - 25.11 Sunday Blaze The Show 

Classical Music Oct T ime

03 04 05 06 07 11 12 13

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:0 19:00 0 19:0 19:00 0

14 15 16 17 21

19:00 1 9: 9: 00 00 19:00 19:00 15:0 15:00 0

24

1 9: 9: 00 00

24

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25 26 27 28 30

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:0 19:00 0

Nov Ti Time

01 01

19:00 19:0 19:00 0

02 03 04 08

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:0 19:00 0

09 09 10

19:00 19:00 19:0 19:00 0

10, 12:00 12:00 11  11 19:0 19:00 0 11

1 9: 9: 00 00

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19:0 19:00 0

17 21 22 23

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:0 19:00 0

24

19:0 19:00 0

30

19:00

Event

Venue

Schumann, Bru ckner GPH Mozar t, Prokofiev GPH Nigel ke kennedy, viviolin GPH D eebbu ss ss y, Ra Ravel, Sc Schumann GPH Brahms, Gri eg, Sibelius GPH Ha yd ydn, M oozz ar ar t,t, B ee eeth ov oven GPH Howar Howard, d, Pagan Paganini ini, Kil Kilar, a r, Zim Zimme merr GPH GPH Org Organ rec recita ital.l. Matt Matteo eo Mes Messo sori ri GPH (Italy): Bach Rachmaninov GPH S ol ol oi oi st st s o f Kh an an ty ty- Ma Ma ns ns iyiys k M C CH H Sibelius, Brahms GPH Harlem Ch oir (USA) GPH Glinka i nka,, Rimsky m sky-K -Kor orsa sako kovv, GPH Shostakovich M aarr i ns ns ky ky T he he aatt re re MCH Symphony Orchestra Piano a no Rec Recit ital al. Barry Barry Doug Dougla lass GPH (Ireland) Bach, Haendel, Taneev GPH Rachmaninov GPH Beethoven, Mendelssohn GPH Mozar t GPH Rask Raskat atov ov, Schn Schnitt ittke ke,, GPH Tchaikovsky  Event

Culture & events

D-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 346 04 38, www.blazetheshow. com. This sensational street dance show brings together 

the world‘s best street dancers with top choreographers, lighting and set-designers to create an eye-popping dance extravaganza. The show features 16 dancers especially  chosen after rigorous auditioning, for their exceptional hip-hop and breakdance abilities. With the help of top choreographers and technicians such a s Es Devlin and Patri ck Woodroffe Woodroffe (who have helped in the production of shows for Lady Gaga and Michael Jackson to name a few) Blaze is a truly siz zling show  filled with incredible talent and showmanship. Q Tickets 1,200 - 3,000Rbl.

25.11 Sunday 11:30 - 16:00 IWC‘s Winter Charity Bazaar  (Hotel Astoria)  C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, www.iwcstpete.com. The International Women‘s Club annual winter bazaar, is one of the biggest charity fundraisers of the year and a key event in the expat calendar. Year on year they have proven that they really do have one of the best raffles in the city, although it‘s not just about the prizes, there‘s plenty of other entertainment too. Food stalls, crafts, Christmas gifts, second-hand jumble and live music are also part of the event and best of all is that inn er-glow gained from knowing all the money you spend goes to help very worthy  local charities. Q Admission free. 30.11 Friday 20:00 Scooter  B-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)

812 309 99 22, www.scootertechno.com. By shouting  gloriously nonsensical l yrics such as; ‘I want you back so clean up the dish. By the way how much is the fish?‘ over inspired happy hardcore techno beats, Scooter aka H.P Baxter and his dance band have become Germany‘s most successful musical act ever. ever. Bleached blonde lead sin ger Baxter is known to be extremely energetic in spite of his advancing years and we imagine as usual he will be very demanding of the audience insisting that you move your ass and get on the floor - he likes it loud. Q Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl.

Venue

Vi valdi, Mendelssohn GPH Thoma Thomass Trotte rotterr. An An eve eveni ning ng of  of  MCH organ music Ha yd ydn, M oozz ar ar t,t, B ee eeth ov oven GPH Mozar t,t, Hen ze, Shuber t GPH Bach, Mozar t,t, Beethoven GPH Bach Bach,, Mend Mendel elssoh s sohn, n, Reg Reger er, GPH Reubke Th e Sta te te B or oro ddiin Quar te tet MC CH H Prokofi ev, Shostakovich GPH Vivald Vivalde, e, Paris Parishh Alv Alvar ars, s, Marc Marcel ello, l o,GPH Durante The Legend Legend of the Beautiful Beautiful MCH Syuimbike Glinka i nka,, Boro Borodi din, n , Scr Scrya yabi bin, n, GPH Tchaikovsky  N on on oo,, P et et ra ra ss ss i, R ot ot a, a, GPH Morricone Andr Andree eevv Imper m peria iall Rus Russi sian an GPH Orchestra Strauss GPH Tchaikovsk y Mu Musi c Da Day GPH Igor Bu tman GPH Org Organ Rec Recit ital al. Bach, Bach, Lem Lemar are, e, GPH Janka, Liszt, Vogt  Esto Estoni nian an Nat Natio iona nall Symp Sympho hony  ny  GPH Orchestra Mahl er GPH

24.11 Saturday 19:00 Superdiskoteka  Sport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 928 10 63, ww w.radiorecord.ru.

Get your retro on with a few thousand other friends at this super-mega-retro-disco-danceatica in celebration of the 1990s. Tracks Tracks will be spun by a slew of Russian DJs who have only one goal in mind; to make you move, make you sweat  and make you holler for more Euro pop hits from yester year. Q Tickets 900 - 3,300Rbl.

Jazz Oct

24.11 Saturday Terem Quartet  D-2, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.teremquartet.ru. They might be a folk group, but you‘re not going 

to see a lot of tie dye and l ove beads on stage, these guys are  far too cool for that. Their instruments, like like their compositions, come deep from the heart of Russia and include a massive bass balalaika, an alto and soprano domra plus a bayan. Mixing classical and modern music they‘ve represented their  native St. Petersburg in cultural events all over the world and Peter Gabriel counts himself as a fan. Q Tickets TBA.

22.11 Thursday 

Bloc Party  C-1, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.blocparty.com. Most 

 famous for their raucous 2004 Brit rock album Silent Alarm, London-based indie-rock band Bloc Party have remained quiet for the last few years after unsuccessfully drifting into electronic music and working on various ‘side projects’. Happily in 2011 the band reformed and released a new album Four in late August 2012, which sees Bloc Party going back  to the guitar rock band roots which made their debut album such a winner. Q Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl. St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Buying Concert Tickets Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many  in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot  as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and some venues such as the Mariinsky Theatre also sell tickets online. There are also a numb er  of online services that allow you to reserve and/or  buy tickets online and most of them offer delivery  anywhere in the cit y for an additional fee. Tickets that  are reserved need to be purchased within three days or the reservation expires. Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit  card (MC/V). Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

exHibitions

18

Champions League action is returning to Petrovsky  Stadium this autumn. Zenit will open home play vs. Italian giants A.C. Milan on October 3rd. The match is a historic  first-ever meeting for the two clubs in Champions League play. Zenit will be looking to improve on its best-ever  result from last season, when Petersburg’s finest made it to the round of 16 of Europe’s top club tournament. A.C. Milan, meanwhile, has won the European Cup/  Champions League 7 times, second only to Real Madrid. Zenit will then host Anderlecht of Brussels, Belgium, on October 24th. This meeting will be a rematch of the two teams’ Europa League meeting in 2010, when Zenit  won 3:1 both home and away. Lastly, Zenit will host its last group stage home match vs. Champions League newcomer Málaga CF on November 21st, in what could provide to be a deciding game for the group standings. Zenit then goes to play A.C. Milan at San Siro Stadium in the penultimate grou p stage match on December 4th. Zenit made two new star additions to its squad in the last  hour before Champions League player sheets were due on September 3rd. First Zenit signed Brazilian national team forward Hulk, who has been a top scorer both in Japan and in Portu gal. Last year Zenit won 3:1 over Porto in the Champions League, when Hulk was still a Porto player, but even then Zenit fans cou ld see his raw power  and skill on the pitch. Now the well-muscled Brazilian will be wearing Zenit’s blue-white-sky blue colors. Thirty  minutes after signing Hulk, Zenit then announced the signing of Axel Witsel, a Belgian national team halfback  who also played club football in Portugal, but for Benfica. Witsel can serve as a defensive mid or playmaker. The two signings cost Zenit 80 million Euros, and it’s now time for the dynamic duo to show their value on the pitch. Zenit will also be playing home matches in the Russian Premier League on October 20th vs. Kuban, on N ovember  3rd vs. Rostov, and on November 26th vs. CSKA. More information on Zenit’s Champions League performance and new players is available at the club’s official website in English at  en.fc-zenit.ru. Oct

3 20 24

Nov

3 21 26

Fixture

Zeni t - A.C. Milan Zeni t - Kuban Zeni t – An derlecht   Zeni t - Rostov Zeni t - Mála ga CF   Zeni t – CSKA  

Throught 08.10 Monday Realism in Russian Art of the second part of  20th century  D-2, The Russian Museum, Benois Wing, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru. Realism is an artistic style which has

been a driving force in Russian art through much of the 20th Century. Under Stalin‘s rule Soviet realism became an officially  sanctioned style. However, during the post-war period many  talented Russian painters became such masters of a certain style of realism, that their art began to portray a wide range of emotions and ask much deeper questions than perhaps the Soviets had originally intended them too. This exhibition, based on private collection s from Moscow, shows the variety  of Russian realist art from the village scenes of the Tkachev brothers to the tragedy and fatalism seen in Gely Korzhev‘s canvases. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Event

Venue

JFC   JPH JPH J FC FC   JFC   JPH JPH GPH

JFC   JFC   GPH JFC  JPH GPH JFC   JPH JFC  JPH

At the time of printing only October schedules were available for Jazz Philharmonic Hall and JFC Jaz z Club. For November schedule check the website.

October - November 2012

Throught 22.10 Monday Unknown artist 

Throught 11.11 Sunday The origins of Russian Slavs and Vikings 

D-2, The Russian Museum, Benois Wing, Nab. kan. Griboedova, 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru. Incredible works of art often find

B-2, Museum-institute of the Roerichs, VO, 18-ya linya 1, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 08 85, www. roerich.spb.ru. For the first time in over a hundred years a

themselves in historic museum collections without names or dates, meaning the identities of the original artists or  indeed of the painting‘s owner or subject are forever lost to those who admire their work. This exhibition will highlight the Russian Museum‘s own expansive collection of such anonymous artworks. 200 canvases and sculptures mainly from the late 17th to 19th Centuries are on display in a thematic exhibition which groups the impressive artworks together  into portrai ture, landscape and still life. As the museum itself  states, this is a unique opportunity to show the artworks of  those destined to never be famous in the same style as those who will forever be internationally recognised. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon. 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Clos ed Tue.

collection of Nikolai Roerich‘s Slavic paintings will be on show in St. Petersburg put together with the help of private collectors and museums in Moscow. The centerpiece of the show is Roerich‘s enchanting early painting Messenger which is said to have inspired everyone from Tolstoy to Rimsky-Korsakov. Although Nikolai Roerich is very well known for his mystical paintings of the Himalayas and central Asia, this exhibition will show how his attachment to the history and culture of the Slavs was often the main source of the painter and anthropologist‘s inspiration, both in artistic and scientific terms. In particular the paintings chosen show how Slavic and Scandinavian cultures have influenced each other through the a ges. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

06.10 Saturday - 13.01 Sunday Jake and Dinos Chapman and Francisco Goya  C-2, The Stage Hermitage Museum, The Winter Palace, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. This unusual

Throught 15.10 Monday Pablo Picasso. Paragraphs  C/D-2, Art-Centre, Dumskaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 31 02, www.artcentrspb.ru. Yet another 

angle of the great artist‘s genius is examined with this collection of 30 sketches made by Picasso during different  different  periods of his career. Drawings made during his blue and pink periods number amongst the work on show alongside surrealist and cubist sketches and snippets from his designs  for Guernica, Toros Toros and toreros and Les bleus de Barcelone. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00.

exhibition demonstrates how the histori c Hermitage museum really is following its ambition to gradually introduce visitors to the famous museum to difficult contemporary works of art. This show by the controversial Bri tish Chapman brothers will be centred around one of their most recent large-scale installations The End of Fun. The hellish vision, p opulated by brutal Nazis, is a harsh and graphic look at the brutality and cruelty  of war. The installation will be complimented by an exhibition of the Chapman‘s sketches Horrors of War, inspired by Goya‘s series of the same name. In conjunction with the modern exhibition the museum will also display its own collection of more than 40 original sketches by Goya, side-byside with the modern version. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sun. 10-30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Throught 31.12 Monday Kutuzov and the 1812 war 

D-2, Military-Historical Museum of Artillery, Engineering and Communications Forces, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Military 

enthusiast will find that St. Petersburg‘s artillery museum has now added a biography of one of Russia‘s most celebrated military leaders to its collection. This exhibition devoted to Mikhail Kutuzov, sheds light on his earlier years wit h the help of various historical artifacts as well as focuses on his role at the helm of the Russian ar my during the Napoleonic wars. Space is also given over to detailing the General‘s family  legacy. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed M on, Tue.

Petrovsky Stadium (PS) C-1 MSportivnaya

Vyacheslav Evdokimov / FC Zenit 

Time

01, 02 19:00 JD Wal ter (USA) 03, 06, 19:00 0 0 Leningr Leningrad ad Dixieland e land Jazz Band Band 20, 27  05 19 :00 Sa xo xo ph ph on on e N ig ht ht : M ik ha ha il Kostushkin's Ensemble 06 19 :00 A . Su vo vo ro ro v B lu es es B an an d 08 19:00 Western Swing Four 10 19 :00 Ja zz zz Ph Phil ha har mo moni c Or ch ch es es trtra 11 19 :00 Fe do dor Ku Ku va vai ts tsev's ja zz zz ba ban d 12 19 :00 St at ate Ja Ja zz zz Mu Mu sisi c Ch am am be ber. Orchestra of O. Lundstrem 13 19 :00 Ea sy sy Wi Win ne ners Ra Ra gt gtim e Ban d 14 19:00 Peter Brainin (USA) 18 19:00 Daniel Kramer and Co 19 19 :00 C hihi zh zhi k J az az z Qu ar ar te te t a nd nd Frederik Konradsen 21 19 :00 L at at in Am Am er er ica n J az az z Ni gh gh t:t: Alexander Latin Band, Jazzdancing  22 19 :00 Ja zz zz an an d A rt rt Ro Ro ck ck . I . Ur ya ya sh sh, A. Malich 26 19:00 Jason Palmer (Boston) 28 19 :00 A frfr oo- Cu Cu ba ba n Ja Ja zz zz N ig ig ht ht: R itit mo mo Caliente, Jazz-dancing  31 19 :00 A tri bu bu te te to Grover   Washington, jr. 31 19:00 Ja zz zz Vi Violin an and Or Organ Ni Ni gh gh t

exHibitions

Exhibitions

FC Zenit

17

Throught 31.12 Monday The cursed civil war  D-1, State museum of political history of Russia, Ul. Kuibysheva 2/4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.ru. This is the last chance to catch

this long running exhibition dedicated to the Russian revolution and the civil war which followed it. Th e exhibition aims to shed light on both sides of the story with uniforms, weapons and the personal belongin gs of Bolshevik and Tsarist Tsarist soldiers placed side-by-side. Of particular interest are the propaganda posters of the opposing sides which show how the sources and directions of the struggles were depicted by the whites and the reds. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed. 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Thu and last Mon of the month.

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st petersburg inyourpo cket com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

19

exHibitions

18

Exhibitions

FC Zenit Champions League action is returning to Petrovsky  Stadium this autumn. Zenit will open home play vs. Italian giants A.C. Milan on October 3rd. The match is a historic  first-ever meeting for the two clubs in Champions League play. Zenit will be looking to improve on its best-ever  result from last season, when Petersburg’s finest made it to the round of 16 of Europe’s top club tournament. A.C. Milan, meanwhile, has won the European Cup/  Champions League 7 times, second only to Real Madrid. Zenit will then host Anderlecht of Brussels, Belgium, on October 24th. This meeting will be a rematch of the two teams’ Europa League meeting in 2010, when Zenit  won 3:1 both home and away. Lastly, Zenit will host its last group stage home match vs. Champions League newcomer Málaga CF on November 21st, in what could provide to be a deciding game for the group standings. Zenit then goes to play A.C. Milan at San Siro Stadium in the penultimate grou p stage match on December 4th. Zenit made two new star additions to its squad in the last  hour before Champions League player sheets were due on September 3rd. First Zenit signed Brazilian national team forward Hulk, who has been a top scorer both in Japan and in Portu gal. Last year Zenit won 3:1 over Porto in the Champions League, when Hulk was still a Porto player, but even then Zenit fans cou ld see his raw power  and skill on the pitch. Now the well-muscled Brazilian will be wearing Zenit’s blue-white-sky blue colors. Thirty  minutes after signing Hulk, Zenit then announced the signing of Axel Witsel, a Belgian national team halfback  who also played club football in Portugal, but for Benfica. Witsel can serve as a defensive mid or playmaker. The two signings cost Zenit 80 million Euros, and it’s now time for the dynamic duo to show their value on the pitch. Zenit will also be playing home matches in the Russian Premier League on October 20th vs. Kuban, on N ovember  3rd vs. Rostov, and on November 26th vs. CSKA. More information on Zenit’s Champions League performance and new players is available at the club’s official website in English at  en.fc-zenit.ru. Oct

3 20 24

Nov

3 21 26

exHibitions

Fixture

Zeni t - A.C. Milan Zeni t - Kuban Zeni t – An derlecht   Zeni t - Rostov Zeni t - Mála ga CF   Zeni t – CSKA  

Throught 08.10 Monday Realism in Russian Art of the second part of  20th century  D-2, The Russian Museum, Benois Wing, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru. Realism is an artistic style which has

been a driving force in Russian art through much of the 20th Century. Under Stalin‘s rule Soviet realism became an officially  sanctioned style. However, during the post-war period many  talented Russian painters became such masters of a certain style of realism, that their art began to portray a wide range of emotions and ask much deeper questions than perhaps the Soviets had originally intended them too. This exhibition, based on private collection s from Moscow, shows the variety  of Russian realist art from the village scenes of the Tkachev brothers to the tragedy and fatalism seen in Gely Korzhev‘s canvases. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

20

Throught 11.11 Sunday The origins of Russian Slavs and Vikings 

D-2, The Russian Museum, Benois Wing, Nab. kan. Griboedova, 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru. Incredible works of art often find

B-2, Museum-institute of the Roerichs, VO, 18-ya linya 1, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 08 85, www. roerich.spb.ru. For the first time in over a hundred years a

themselves in historic museum collections without names or dates, meaning the identities of the original artists or  indeed of the painting‘s owner or subject are forever lost to those who admire their work. This exhibition will highlight the Russian Museum‘s own expansive collection of such anonymous artworks. 200 canvases and sculptures mainly from the late 17th to 19th Centuries are on display in a thematic exhibition which groups the impressive artworks together  into portrai ture, landscape and still life. As the museum itself  states, this is a unique opportunity to show the artworks of  those destined to never be famous in the same style as those who will forever be internationally recognised. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon. 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Clos ed Tue.

collection of Nikolai Roerich‘s Slavic paintings will be on show in St. Petersburg put together with the help of private collectors and museums in Moscow. The centerpiece of the show is Roerich‘s enchanting early painting Messenger which is said to have inspired everyone from Tolstoy to Rimsky-Korsakov. Although Nikolai Roerich is very well known for his mystical paintings of the Himalayas and central Asia, this exhibition will show how his attachment to the history and culture of the Slavs was often the main source of the painter and anthropologist‘s inspiration, both in artistic and scientific terms. In particular the paintings chosen show how Slavic and Scandinavian cultures have influenced each other through the a ges. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

06.10 Saturday - 13.01 Sunday Jake and Dinos Chapman and Francisco Goya  C-2, The Stage Hermitage Museum, The Winter Palace, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. This unusual

Throught 15.10 Monday Pablo Picasso. Paragraphs  C/D-2, Art-Centre, Dumskaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 31 02, www.artcentrspb.ru. Yet another 

angle of the great artist‘s genius is examined with this collection of 30 sketches made by Picasso during different  different  periods of his career. Drawings made during his blue and pink periods number amongst the work on show alongside surrealist and cubist sketches and snippets from his designs  for Guernica, Toros Toros and toreros and Les bleus de Barcelone. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00.

exhibition demonstrates how the histori c Hermitage museum really is following its ambition to gradually introduce visitors to the famous museum to difficult contemporary works of art. This show by the controversial Bri tish Chapman brothers will be centred around one of their most recent large-scale installations The End of Fun. The hellish vision, p opulated by brutal Nazis, is a harsh and graphic look at the brutality and cruelty  of war. The installation will be complimented by an exhibition of the Chapman‘s sketches Horrors of War, inspired by Goya‘s series of the same name. In conjunction with the modern exhibition the museum will also display its own collection of more than 40 original sketches by Goya, side-byside with the modern version. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sun. 10-30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Throught 31.12 Monday Kutuzov and the 1812 war 

D-2, Military-Historical Museum of Artillery, Engineering and Communications Forces, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Military 

enthusiast will find that St. Petersburg‘s artillery museum has now added a biography of one of Russia‘s most celebrated military leaders to its collection. This exhibition devoted to Mikhail Kutuzov, sheds light on his earlier years wit h the help of various historical artifacts as well as focuses on his role at the helm of the Russian ar my during the Napoleonic wars. Space is also given over to detailing the General‘s family  legacy. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed M on, Tue.

Petrovsky Stadium (PS) C-1 MSportivnaya

Vyacheslav Evdokimov / FC Zenit 

Throught 22.10 Monday Unknown artist 

Throught 31.12 Monday The cursed civil war  D-1, State museum of political history of Russia, Ul. Kuibysheva 2/4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.ru. This is the last chance to catch

this long running exhibition dedicated to the Russian revolution and the civil war which followed it. Th e exhibition aims to shed light on both sides of the story with uniforms, weapons and the personal belongin gs of Bolshevik and Tsarist Tsarist soldiers placed side-by-side. Of particular interest are the propaganda posters of the opposing sides which show how the sources and directions of the struggles were depicted by the whites and the reds. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed. 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Thu and last Mon of the month.

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

VlAdimir

VlAdimir Golden Gates Ul. Dvoryanskaya/ul. bol. Moskovskaya, Moskovskaya, www.vladmuseum.ru. This imposing structure was built in the mid-12th Century in emulation of the city gates which existed in other great Orthodox cities such as Constantin ople and Kiev. Nowadays it is one of the few remaining examples of  old Russian city gates. Originally the struc ture was topped topped by  a church although no wadays all that can be seen is the dome. There is a small military museum near th e top of the building  dedicated to weapons and uniforms from various Russian battles over the centuries including the Russo-Turkish wars and World War II. The main focal point is the col ourful diorama showing the invasion of Vladimir by the Tatar-Mongol horde in 1237. No information in English. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Thu. Admission 50Rbl.

Positioned on the eastern flank of the famous Golden Ring, for  many Vladimir is often a ju mping point for visits to the famous beautiful Russian village of Suzdal which lies 50 minutes away  by bus. However, as one of the most important towns of  ancient Rus, Vladimir is a destination i n its own rights and it is worth sticking around to see its numerous UNESCO protected sights and soak up some local history.

Sightseeing  Vladimir’s main sights; the spectacular 12th Century  Assumption Cathedral, the Golden Gates and the UNESCO protected ancient stone Church on the Nerl in the neighbouring  village of Bogolyubovo, can easily be visited in one day, although as the town offers many decent restaurants and a plethora of accommodation options, staying in Vladimir can also be a lively alternative to staying overnight in sleepy Suzdal. Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Sobor)Sobornaya Ploschad. Vladimir‘s must-see sight is the impressive Assumption Cathedral originall y built in the 12th Century. Until the political capital of ancient Rus was permanently moved to Moscow in the 14th Century, it was here that the crown princes of the powerful Vladimir-Suzdal region were crowned and married. For centuries this was the biggest cathedral in Russia and it is known to have been the inspiration for the Assumption Cathedral in Moscow‘s Kremlin. The building managed to miraculously survive the Tatar-Mongol attack of the city in 1238 although the interiors have seen changes over the centuries. In 1408 the celebrated icon painter Andrei Rublyev gave the cathedral its frescoes, which are considered to be some of the master‘s greates t work. Fragments of Rublyev‘s frescoes can still be seen although most of the current decor dates back to the 19th Century. The baroque iconostasis was installed at the behest of Catherine the Great in the late 18th Century. Still a working church this is an incredibly atmospheric and intimate place illuminated only by  the many candles left by the pious and the daylight streaming  in at slanted angles from the high windows.

Church of the intercession on the NerlBogolyubovo village. Standing alone in the middle of a meadow t his solitary 

little white stone church commands a remote and romantic position on the bank of the small Nerl river and is reco gnised by UNESCO as an outstanding example of Russian white stone architecture. Its tall slender shape is the result of unique proportions which inclu de 4 metre high walls topped by a tall dome. Inside, the church is tiny. Half of the area is occupied by  the iconostasis, and th e small floorspace and poor light have meant that it is impossible to hold services here althou gh the  faithful still arriveto leavecandles and kiss the icons.GETTING THERE: Take bus 152 to Bogolyubovo (journey time around 20mins), exit at the monastery and follow the road heading  away from Vladimir for about 200metres until you reach a road on your right leading down to the train station. Cross over the tracks and follow the path through the meadows. The walk should take around 25 minutes.

Museum of crystal, lace and lacquer miniatures Troitsky Church, ul. Dvoryanskaya 2, tel. (+7) 492 232 24 29, www.vladmuseum.ru. In the upper part of this

 former church is a small display of incredibly detailed lacquer  boxes made in the local area, while downstairs is dedicated to the colourful works produced by the Gus-Krustalny glass  factory. Vases, wine glasses and decanters all feature in all shapes, sizes and colours inspired by different artistic movements during the last centur y. In the basement of the building  is a small shop selling contemporary products from the factory. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 50Rbl. Palaty - cultural-educational museum centre Ul. Bol. Moskovskaya 58, tel. (+7) 492 232 24 29, www. vladmuseum.ru. Across the first floor is a range of small

Getting There There are two long distance trains a day from St. Petersburg which pass through Vladimir on their way east  leaving from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) at  15:20 and 17:20. The journey takes around 11 hours an d unfortunately trains arrive in the town in the dead of night. Most people travelling out to the Golden Ring from St. Petersburg prefer to take the overnight train to Moscow and travel at their leisure from there. On the return leg  (Vladimir-St. Petersburg) arrival times are marginally  better with trains departing at 18:00 and 22:26 and arriving in St. Peter sburg at 05:41 and 09:43 respectively.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

19

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

rooms aimed at children which are manned by staff in costume ready to give a history lesson (in Russian) and detail various different aspects of local history. Most visitors would be b est  to skip this part and head straight to the art colle ction on the second floor. The art on display ranges from the late 18th Century through to the early 20th Centur y and includes works by artists such as Shishkin, Makovsky and Levitan. One of  Rublyev‘s most famous icons is also kept here. In addition there‘s a decent collection of ar t from local artists and some beautiful 19th Cen tury furniture. The top floor is dedicated to temporary exhibits. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Mon, Thu 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Entrance costs 50Rbl for each floor.

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Stoletov House Ul. Stoletovykh 1, tel. (+7) 492 232 42 65, www.museum.vladimir.ru. This pretty little wooden house was once home to some of Vladimir‘s most successful residents. The Stoletov family lived here in the 19 th Century. One of the sons of the family was an army General in the Turko-Russian war and was credited with a fantastic victor y in Bulgaria and various military flags, uniforms, weapons, medals and sketches testify to his successful career. Another of the Stoletov family sons, Alexander, left his legacy in the field of  physics. A celebrated scientist he now has a statue outside Moscow‘s State University. Alexander specialised in the field of electromagnetism and his numerous scientific instruments are presented here alongside correspondence from his many  peers in Russia, Germany and Britain. The period furniture and décor of the house has been immaculately recreated although unfortunately there is no information in English. Q Open 10:00 -17:00, Tue, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Thu. Entrance 50Rbl. Water tower Kozlov val, tel. (+7) 492 232 42 63, www. museum.vladimir.ru. This 19th Century water tower now

houses a small exhibition of photos and models depicting  life in Vladimir during the 19th Century. The main reason for  visiting is to climb the stairs up to the viewing platform at the top which has a nice view over the town and th e surrounding  countryside. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50Rbl.

Hotels Erlangen House Ul. Bol Nizhergorodskaya 25, tel. (+7) 492 232 37 95, ww w.erlangen.ru.This gorgeous restored

wooden town house with a delightful flower filled garden and sun deck, is one of the best accommodati on options in town and accordingly is frequently booked out. The mini-hotel is run with the help of Vladimir‘s twin city Erlangen in Germany  who rescued the historic building from near ruin and the Goethe Institut now runs classes from its own classrooms on the ground floor. The Teutonic influence is visible across the building from the bright, fresh and unfussy decor to the visibly good German quality fit tings. Breakfast is available on request and the small kitchen/dining area is free for guests to use. Q5 rooms (singles 2200 - 2800Rbl, doubl es 3200 3700Rbl, triples 4500Rbl). PHALGBW Hotel Monomakh Ul. Gogolya 20, tel. (+7) 492 244 04 44, www.monomahhotel.com. A smallish hotel in a 19th Century brick house conveniently located a short distance  from the Golden Gates and Vladimir‘s main street Bol shaya Moskovskaya. In the summer a large and quiet terrace is opened in the hotel‘s rear, while there‘s also a Russian restaurant in the hotel itself. The rooms are decorated in a clean modern style and come in a variety of shapes and sizes depending on where in the building they are located. The hotel also offers extra services such as excursions and car rental. Q16 rooms (singles 2300 - 3000Rbl, doubles 3500 - 5400Rbl). Price of room includes a discount for the hotel‘s restaurant. PTHA6LBKW October - November 2012

21

20

VlAdimir

VlAdimir Golden Gates Ul. Dvoryanskaya/ul. bol. Moskovskaya, Moskovskaya, www.vladmuseum.ru. This imposing structure was built in the mid-12th Century in emulation of the city gates which existed in other great Orthodox cities such as Constantin ople and Kiev. Nowadays it is one of the few remaining examples of  old Russian city gates. Originally the struc ture was topped topped by  a church although no wadays all that can be seen is the dome. There is a small military museum near th e top of the building  dedicated to weapons and uniforms from various Russian battles over the centuries including the Russo-Turkish wars and World War II. The main focal point is the col ourful diorama showing the invasion of Vladimir by the Tatar-Mongol horde in 1237. No information in English. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Thu. Admission 50Rbl.

Positioned on the eastern flank of the famous Golden Ring, for  many Vladimir is often a ju mping point for visits to the famous beautiful Russian village of Suzdal which lies 50 minutes away  by bus. However, as one of the most important towns of  ancient Rus, Vladimir is a destination i n its own rights and it is worth sticking around to see its numerous UNESCO protected sights and soak up some local history.

Sightseeing  Vladimir’s main sights; the spectacular 12th Century  Assumption Cathedral, the Golden Gates and the UNESCO protected ancient stone Church on the Nerl in the neighbouring  village of Bogolyubovo, can easily be visited in one day, although as the town offers many decent restaurants and a plethora of accommodation options, staying in Vladimir can also be a lively alternative to staying overnight in sleepy Suzdal. Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Sobor)Sobornaya Ploschad. Vladimir‘s must-see sight is the impressive Assumption Cathedral originall y built in the 12th Century. Until the political capital of ancient Rus was permanently moved to Moscow in the 14th Century, it was here that the crown princes of the powerful Vladimir-Suzdal region were crowned and married. For centuries this was the biggest cathedral in Russia and it is known to have been the inspiration for the Assumption Cathedral in Moscow‘s Kremlin. The building managed to miraculously survive the Tatar-Mongol attack of the city in 1238 although the interiors have seen changes over the centuries. In 1408 the celebrated icon painter Andrei Rublyev gave the cathedral its frescoes, which are considered to be some of the master‘s greates t work. Fragments of Rublyev‘s frescoes can still be seen although most of the current decor dates back to the 19th Century. The baroque iconostasis was installed at the behest of Catherine the Great in the late 18th Century. Still a working church this is an incredibly atmospheric and intimate place illuminated only by  the many candles left by the pious and the daylight streaming  in at slanted angles from the high windows.

Church of the intercession on the NerlBogolyubovo village. Standing alone in the middle of a meadow t his solitary 

little white stone church commands a remote and romantic position on the bank of the small Nerl river and is reco gnised by UNESCO as an outstanding example of Russian white stone architecture. Its tall slender shape is the result of unique proportions which inclu de 4 metre high walls topped by a tall dome. Inside, the church is tiny. Half of the area is occupied by  the iconostasis, and th e small floorspace and poor light have meant that it is impossible to hold services here althou gh the  faithful still arriveto leavecandles and kiss the icons.GETTING THERE: Take bus 152 to Bogolyubovo (journey time around 20mins), exit at the monastery and follow the road heading  away from Vladimir for about 200metres until you reach a road on your right leading down to the train station. Cross over the tracks and follow the path through the meadows. The walk should take around 25 minutes.

22

 former church is a small display of incredibly detailed lacquer  boxes made in the local area, while downstairs is dedicated to the colourful works produced by the Gus-Krustalny glass  factory. Vases, wine glasses and decanters all feature in all shapes, sizes and colours inspired by different artistic movements during the last centur y. In the basement of the building  is a small shop selling contemporary products from the factory. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 50Rbl. Palaty - cultural-educational museum centre Ul. Bol. Moskovskaya 58, tel. (+7) 492 232 24 29, www. vladmuseum.ru. Across the first floor is a range of small

Getting There There are two long distance trains a day from St. Petersburg which pass through Vladimir on their way east  leaving from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) at  15:20 and 17:20. The journey takes around 11 hours an d unfortunately trains arrive in the town in the dead of night. Most people travelling out to the Golden Ring from St. Petersburg prefer to take the overnight train to Moscow and travel at their leisure from there. On the return leg  (Vladimir-St. Petersburg) arrival times are marginally  better with trains departing at 18:00 and 22:26 and arriving in St. Peter sburg at 05:41 and 09:43 respectively.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Museum of crystal, lace and lacquer miniatures Troitsky Church, ul. Dvoryanskaya 2, tel. (+7) 492 232 24 29, www.vladmuseum.ru. In the upper part of this

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

rooms aimed at children which are manned by staff in costume ready to give a history lesson (in Russian) and detail various different aspects of local history. Most visitors would be b est  to skip this part and head straight to the art colle ction on the second floor. The art on display ranges from the late 18th Century through to the early 20th Centur y and includes works by artists such as Shishkin, Makovsky and Levitan. One of  Rublyev‘s most famous icons is also kept here. In addition there‘s a decent collection of ar t from local artists and some beautiful 19th Cen tury furniture. The top floor is dedicated to temporary exhibits. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Mon, Thu 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Entrance costs 50Rbl for each floor.

Stoletov House Ul. Stoletovykh 1, tel. (+7) 492 232 42 65, www.museum.vladimir.ru. This pretty little wooden house was once home to some of Vladimir‘s most successful residents. The Stoletov family lived here in the 19 th Century. One of the sons of the family was an army General in the Turko-Russian war and was credited with a fantastic victor y in Bulgaria and various military flags, uniforms, weapons, medals and sketches testify to his successful career. Another of the Stoletov family sons, Alexander, left his legacy in the field of  physics. A celebrated scientist he now has a statue outside Moscow‘s State University. Alexander specialised in the field of electromagnetism and his numerous scientific instruments are presented here alongside correspondence from his many  peers in Russia, Germany and Britain. The period furniture and décor of the house has been immaculately recreated although unfortunately there is no information in English. Q Open 10:00 -17:00, Tue, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Thu. Entrance 50Rbl. Water tower Kozlov val, tel. (+7) 492 232 42 63, www. museum.vladimir.ru. This 19th Century water tower now

houses a small exhibition of photos and models depicting  life in Vladimir during the 19th Century. The main reason for  visiting is to climb the stairs up to the viewing platform at the top which has a nice view over the town and th e surrounding  countryside. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50Rbl.

Hotels Erlangen House Ul. Bol Nizhergorodskaya 25, tel. (+7) 492 232 37 95, ww w.erlangen.ru.This gorgeous restored

wooden town house with a delightful flower filled garden and sun deck, is one of the best accommodati on options in town and accordingly is frequently booked out. The mini-hotel is run with the help of Vladimir‘s twin city Erlangen in Germany  who rescued the historic building from near ruin and the Goethe Institut now runs classes from its own classrooms on the ground floor. The Teutonic influence is visible across the building from the bright, fresh and unfussy decor to the visibly good German quality fit tings. Breakfast is available on request and the small kitchen/dining area is free for guests to use. Q5 rooms (singles 2200 - 2800Rbl, doubl es 3200 3700Rbl, triples 4500Rbl). PHALGBW Hotel Monomakh Ul. Gogolya 20, tel. (+7) 492 244 04 44, www.monomahhotel.com. A smallish hotel in a 19th Century brick house conveniently located a short distance  from the Golden Gates and Vladimir‘s main street Bol shaya Moskovskaya. In the summer a large and quiet terrace is opened in the hotel‘s rear, while there‘s also a Russian restaurant in the hotel itself. The rooms are decorated in a clean modern style and come in a variety of shapes and sizes depending on where in the building they are located. The hotel also offers extra services such as excursions and car rental. Q16 rooms (singles 2300 - 3000Rbl, doubles 3500 - 5400Rbl). Price of room includes a discount for the hotel‘s restaurant. PTHA6LBKW

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

hotels

VlAdimir Park Hotel Voznesenskaya Sloboda Ul. Voznesenskaya 14b, tel. (+7) 492 232 54 94, w ww.vsloboda.ru. A   fancy holiday village on the side of the hill and secluded from the main bustle of the town centre but still within reasonable walking distance to the sights. The Park Hotel’s winning   features are its panoramic views over th e countr yside and its excellent restaurant. The various buildings of the complex house a choice of spacious and bright rooms in European or  traditional Russian styles. The complex also boasts a sauna and swimming pool and barbeque facilities. Q (doubles 4600Rbl). PHALBKDCW Vinyl Hostel Ul. Studyonaya Gora 14, flat 12, tel. (+7) 492 247 46 01/(+7) 920 944 78 88, w ww.vinylhostel. com. Located in a nicely converted new apartment, Vinyl

Hostel is extremely clean and quiet and complimented by  modern facilities. There‘s a kitchen-common room with a big  TV and zillions of beanbags although on the bathroom front  there‘s only one shower and two toilets. It is a ten minute walk from the Golden Gates and abou t 30minutes walk from the train station. It is worth noting that there‘s no number  on the building, or for that matter on any of the buildings nearby. The building you are looking for is directly opposite the church. The entrance is in the rear (ring the buz zer for flat 12) where there‘s a small kid‘s play area. Q3 rooms (12 persons dorm 400Rbl, 1 10 persons dorm 400Rbl, 1 6 persons dorm 400Rbl). Breakfast not included. TARLGW

Head to our website russia.inyourpocket.com to see our full instant guide to the Golden Ring region.

Suzdal Steeped in medieval history and more than 1,000 years old, a visit to the sleepy village of Suzdal is like stepping  back into a golden bygone era. The streets are lined with brightly coloured traditional wooden houses, starsprinkled domes pepper the meandering rural landscape and black robed nuns an d monks dash around the town’s squares on their way to services. There’s plenty to see including two large monasteries as well as an ancient  kremlin and the museum of old wooden architecture. GETTING THERE: From Vladimir bus station buses

leave every hour to Suzdal. The journey takes 50minutes – make sure you give the driver an extra 20Rbl to take you into the centre of the town.

Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg D-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.

corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most thorough polish - th e shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff are just as welcoming  as the rooms and the conference organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (43 suites 41,530 - 258,080Rbl, 345 single/  double 18,150 - 24,600Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast  Breakfast  PTHAUFLGKDW hhhh h 1,330Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDW

Kozlovitsa Torgovy Ryady (entrance in the rear), ul. bol. Moskovskaya 19a, tel. (+7) 492 245 15 85, www. kozlovica.ru. This Czech beer restaurant is a brilliant place

to pop by if you‘re a fan of meat an d good quality Cze ch beer. All the dishes are very nicely presented and the portions are immense. There‘s the usual sausages as well as bigger  meat feasts like pork knuckles and ribs to choose from plus heaving platters of goodies to share. The soups are hearty  and filling and in traditional styl e some are also served inside a bread loaf. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.  €€. PALEBW Shesh Besh Ul. bol. Moskovskaya 78, tel. (+7) 492 242 11 66. A great value choice if you want to spi ce up your life in

Vladimir. Vladimir. This Azeri restaurant, part of a Moscow based chain, has all the Caucasian favourites such as sizzling  shashliki  (shish kebabs), spicy soups, khinkali (giant dumplings) and toasty  khachapuri  (stuffed cheese breads). The interior is classic kitsch Caucasian fun with fake trees, colourful carpets on the walls and wait staff in traditional costume. It can get  really busy and service slows to a snail pace so don‘t come here if you are in a hurry to be somewhere. QOpen 12:00 24:00. €. PAW Sobornaya Ploschad Ul. Bol. Moskovskaya 39, tel. (+7) 492 232 57 25. One of the most popular bars in town (aside from the scary techno joints further along the road) this is a friendly place with a nice mix of young locals enjoying quiet drinks with friends. The interior has a retro music theme and is plastered with photos of rock stars, guitars, records and the like and occassionally the bar follows its theme and hosts concerts. The food is an average mix of  low priced Russian/European dishes. Nice beer terrace out   front. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €. EG Traktir Ul. Letnye-Perevozinskaya 1a, tel. (+7) 492 32 41 62. An atmospheric wooden hut located a short distance

 from the Golden Gates, which is one of the bet ter places in town to sample some Russian cuisine. The extensi ve Russian menu is fairly priced and the food is good hearty traditional stuff. The colourful traditional décor is a plus, as is th e shashlik  grill and in the summer there‘s a summer terrace with large inside area. Watch out for the deafening live music Thu- Sat. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €. AEB Traveler‘s Coffee Ul. Bol. Moskovskaya 10, tel. (+7) 492 242 13 55, www.travelerscoffee.ru. Part of a Russian/American coffee chain which is very popular in Siberia, Traveler‘s is a reliable place to stop and get a hot drink, a slice of cake or a light snack and happily they open early for  breakfast too. The choice of coffees and teas is extensive and enticing and the design is modern, comfortable and colour ful. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €. PAW St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-2, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into

Bars and Restaurants

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and  friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period October - November 2012. In Your Pocket assumes no

responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing, that  we have not been informed about directly by hotels.

5 Stars Angleterre Hotel C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. This luxury hotel in th e heart of the city caters to

its high-end business clients wi th multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet flooring. Views of St. Isaac‘s are unparalleled  from their deluxe sui tes or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch buffet that changes daily. International exhibited painter Marina Fedorova‘s cheeky, pop culture infused paintings adorn Borsalino, while photos of the Mikhailovsky  ballet company liven up hallways of the upper storeys. Q193 rooms (103 singles 27,500 - 28,500Rbl, doubles 27,500 - 28,500Rbl, 4 suites 49,000 - 82,000Rbl, 12 Executive 30,000 - 31,000Rbl, 3 superior delu xe 32,500 - 33,500Rbl, 49 deluxe 29,000 - 30,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,600Rbl. Break fast 1,350Rbl. PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh Astoria C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.roccofortehotels. com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral stair-

case, Rotonda lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, Kandinsky whiskey and cigar bar and Davidov restaurant. Throughout the hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. Q211 rooms (169 doubles 36,000 - 41,000Rbl, 42 suites 51,000 - 166,500Rbl). 211 rooms (169 doubles 10,000 - 18,000Rbl, 42 suites 30,000 - 100,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,400Rbl. Breakfast  1,650Rbl. PHAFGKDW hhhhh st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

21

Russia from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. The architects have made a clever reconstruction of the historic building, offering offering entrances and views both onto the picturesque Moika canal and the art-nouveau Bolshaya Morskaya street. In a boutique hotel style the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful and bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly  to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon bright colours and art installations. Up in the rooms there‘s ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme here too is bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in sight, which is all part of Domina‘s aim to make guests feel that this is not just a hotel, it‘s an experience. Q109 rooms (2 singles 10,500Rbl, 104 doubles 10,500Rbl, 3 suites 16,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast 1,200Rbl. PTHA6ULGBKDwW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Europe D-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, fax (+7) 812 329 60 01, ww w.grandhoteleurope.com w.grandhoteleurope.com..Occupying the full length

of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all,  from the original original art-deco detailing detailing to the exquisite exquisite,, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also five top-notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar, authentic Chinese at Chopsticks or Italian at Rossi‘s. For fine dining, L‘Europe with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot  be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. Q301 rooms (52 suites 22,900 - 92,700Rbl, 13 Histori c Room 14,800Rbl, 88 Superior Room 11,900Rbl, 109 Deluxe Room 13,200Rbl, 17 Terrace Room 17,900Rbl). Extra bed 2,500Rb. Breakfast 2,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhhh

Symbol Key P Air conditioning 

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly 

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet 

L Guarded parking 

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant 

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly 

W Wi-Fi connection

October - November 2012

23

22

hotels

VlAdimir Park Hotel Voznesenskaya Sloboda Ul. Voznesenskaya 14b, tel. (+7) 492 232 54 94, w ww.vsloboda.ru. A   fancy holiday village on the side of the hill and secluded from the main bustle of the town centre but still within reasonable walking distance to the sights. The Park Hotel’s winning   features are its panoramic views over th e countr yside and its excellent restaurant. The various buildings of the complex house a choice of spacious and bright rooms in European or  traditional Russian styles. The complex also boasts a sauna and swimming pool and barbeque facilities. Q (doubles 4600Rbl). PHALBKDCW Vinyl Hostel Ul. Studyonaya Gora 14, flat 12, tel. (+7) 492 247 46 01/(+7) 920 944 78 88, w ww.vinylhostel. com. Located in a nicely converted new apartment, Vinyl

Hostel is extremely clean and quiet and complimented by  modern facilities. There‘s a kitchen-common room with a big  TV and zillions of beanbags although on the bathroom front  there‘s only one shower and two toilets. It is a ten minute walk from the Golden Gates and abou t 30minutes walk from the train station. It is worth noting that there‘s no number  on the building, or for that matter on any of the buildings nearby. The building you are looking for is directly opposite the church. The entrance is in the rear (ring the buz zer for flat 12) where there‘s a small kid‘s play area. Q3 rooms (12 persons dorm 400Rbl, 1 10 persons dorm 400Rbl, 1 6 persons dorm 400Rbl). Breakfast not included. TARLGW

Head to our website russia.inyourpocket.com to see our full instant guide to the Golden Ring region.

Suzdal Steeped in medieval history and more than 1,000 years old, a visit to the sleepy village of Suzdal is like stepping  back into a golden bygone era. The streets are lined with brightly coloured traditional wooden houses, starsprinkled domes pepper the meandering rural landscape and black robed nuns an d monks dash around the town’s squares on their way to services. There’s plenty to see including two large monasteries as well as an ancient  kremlin and the museum of old wooden architecture. GETTING THERE: From Vladimir bus station buses

leave every hour to Suzdal. The journey takes 50minutes – make sure you give the driver an extra 20Rbl to take you into the centre of the town.

Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg D-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.

corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most thorough polish - th e shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff are just as welcoming  as the rooms and the conference organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (43 suites 41,530 - 258,080Rbl, 345 single/  double 18,150 - 24,600Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast  Breakfast  PTHAUFLGKDW hhhh h 1,330Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDW

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-2, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into

Bars and Restaurants Kozlovitsa Torgovy Ryady (entrance in the rear), ul. bol. Moskovskaya 19a, tel. (+7) 492 245 15 85, www. kozlovica.ru. This Czech beer restaurant is a brilliant place

to pop by if you‘re a fan of meat an d good quality Cze ch beer. All the dishes are very nicely presented and the portions are immense. There‘s the usual sausages as well as bigger  meat feasts like pork knuckles and ribs to choose from plus heaving platters of goodies to share. The soups are hearty  and filling and in traditional styl e some are also served inside a bread loaf. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.  €€. PALEBW Shesh Besh Ul. bol. Moskovskaya 78, tel. (+7) 492 242 11 66. A great value choice if you want to spi ce up your life in

Vladimir. Vladimir. This Azeri restaurant, part of a Moscow based chain, has all the Caucasian favourites such as sizzling  shashliki  (shish kebabs), spicy soups, khinkali (giant dumplings) and toasty  khachapuri  (stuffed cheese breads). The interior is classic kitsch Caucasian fun with fake trees, colourful carpets on the walls and wait staff in traditional costume. It can get  really busy and service slows to a snail pace so don‘t come here if you are in a hurry to be somewhere. QOpen 12:00 24:00. €. PAW Sobornaya Ploschad Ul. Bol. Moskovskaya 39, tel. (+7) 492 232 57 25. One of the most popular bars in town (aside from the scary techno joints further along the road) this is a friendly place with a nice mix of young locals enjoying quiet drinks with friends. The interior has a retro music theme and is plastered with photos of rock stars, guitars, records and the like and occassionally the bar follows its theme and hosts concerts. The food is an average mix of  low priced Russian/European dishes. Nice beer terrace out   front. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €. EG Traktir Ul. Letnye-Perevozinskaya 1a, tel. (+7) 492 32 41 62. An atmospheric wooden hut located a short distance

 from the Golden Gates, which is one of the bet ter places in town to sample some Russian cuisine. The extensi ve Russian menu is fairly priced and the food is good hearty traditional stuff. The colourful traditional décor is a plus, as is th e shashlik  grill and in the summer there‘s a summer terrace with large inside area. Watch out for the deafening live music Thu- Sat. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €. AEB Traveler‘s Coffee Ul. Bol. Moskovskaya 10, tel. (+7) 492 242 13 55, www.travelerscoffee.ru. Part of a Russian/American coffee chain which is very popular in Siberia, Traveler‘s is a reliable place to stop and get a hot drink, a slice of cake or a light snack and happily they open early for  breakfast too. The choice of coffees and teas is extensive and enticing and the design is modern, comfortable and colour ful. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €. PAW St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

24

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and  friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period October - November 2012. In Your Pocket assumes no

responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing, that  we have not been informed about directly by hotels.

5 Stars Angleterre Hotel C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. This luxury hotel in th e heart of the city caters to

its high-end business clients wi th multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet flooring. Views of St. Isaac‘s are unparalleled  from their deluxe sui tes or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch buffet that changes daily. International exhibited painter Marina Fedorova‘s cheeky, pop culture infused paintings adorn Borsalino, while photos of the Mikhailovsky  ballet company liven up hallways of the upper storeys. Q193 rooms (103 singles 27,500 - 28,500Rbl, doubles 27,500 - 28,500Rbl, 4 suites 49,000 - 82,000Rbl, 12 Executive 30,000 - 31,000Rbl, 3 superior delu xe 32,500 - 33,500Rbl, 49 deluxe 29,000 - 30,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,600Rbl. Break fast 1,350Rbl. PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh Astoria C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.roccofortehotels. com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral stair-

case, Rotonda lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, Kandinsky whiskey and cigar bar and Davidov restaurant. Throughout the hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. Q211 rooms (169 doubles 36,000 - 41,000Rbl, 42 suites 51,000 - 166,500Rbl). 211 rooms (169 doubles 10,000 - 18,000Rbl, 42 suites 30,000 - 100,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,400Rbl. Breakfast  1,650Rbl. PHAFGKDW hhhhh st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Russia from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. The architects have made a clever reconstruction of the historic building, offering offering entrances and views both onto the picturesque Moika canal and the art-nouveau Bolshaya Morskaya street. In a boutique hotel style the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful and bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly  to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon bright colours and art installations. Up in the rooms there‘s ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme here too is bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in sight, which is all part of Domina‘s aim to make guests feel that this is not just a hotel, it‘s an experience. Q109 rooms (2 singles 10,500Rbl, 104 doubles 10,500Rbl, 3 suites 16,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast 1,200Rbl. PTHA6ULGBKDwW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Europe D-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, fax (+7) 812 329 60 01, ww w.grandhoteleurope.com w.grandhoteleurope.com..Occupying the full length

of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all,  from the original original art-deco detailing detailing to the exquisite exquisite,, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also five top-notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar, authentic Chinese at Chopsticks or Italian at Rossi‘s. For fine dining, L‘Europe with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot  be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. Q301 rooms (52 suites 22,900 - 92,700Rbl, 13 Histori c Room 14,800Rbl, 88 Superior Room 11,900Rbl, 109 Deluxe Room 13,200Rbl, 17 Terrace Room 17,900Rbl). Extra bed 2,500Rb. Breakfast 2,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhhh

Symbol Key P Air conditioning 

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly 

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet 

L Guarded parking 

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant 

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly 

W Wi-Fi connection

October - November 2012

hotels

hotels W St. Petersburg C-2, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg.

Radisson Royal Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, w ww.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the well-

trained staff take a professional but personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There‘s the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner  lobby bar with it‘s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample conference and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (116 singles 25,000Rbl, 116 doubles 25,000Rbl, 18 suites 41,200Rbl). Extra b ed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast 1,300Rbl. PTHAUF� GKW hhhhh

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, VO, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is

a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walkways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. tower. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, furnishings, the rooms are crisp and bright with chaise-lounges, chaise-lounges, flat screen tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (21 suites 9,000 - 9,500Rbl, 21 apartments 11,000 - 11,500Rbl, 324 single/double 5,000 - 6,400Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. Breakfast 1,100Rbl. PTHAR6UFLGB� KDCW hhhhh

Taleon Imperial Hotel C-2, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, w ww.taleonimperialhotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St Petersburg,

the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably  decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites have to be seen to be beli eved. On the top floor, there‘s a spa with summer terrace an d wonderful views over the ci ty. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel‘s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant  offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (72 singles 26,000Rbl, 17 doubles 26,000Rbl, 40 suites 31,200 - 350,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast 1,750Rbl. PTHAUFLG� BKDCW hhhhh

For hundreds more reviews of hotels across Russia and Eastern Europe check out our website www.inyourpocket.com

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

23

com. Impressive as the grey granite facade i s, guests are in  for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thorou ghly  contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not  merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cocktails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of  St. Isaac‘s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship. Meeting spaces contain state-of-the-art technology along with unique sensory  devices to keep ideas flowing. Each room wows with their  signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (127 singles, 127 doubles, 10 suites). Breakfast  1,500Rbl., incl. depending on a room type. PTHAR�

6UFGBKDCW hhhhh

4 Stars Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel B-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 5000,w ww.courtyardstpeters ww.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.r burgpushkin.ru. u. This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of con ference space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which has  free WiFi), WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; restaurants; one of them, them, the reasonreasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of b eer. eer. There‘s also a small gym on the third floor. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet l ocation on Kanal Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms (167  singles 6,000Rbl, 100 doubles 6,000Rbl, 5 suites 9,000Rbl, 1 wedding suite 11,900Rbl). VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) not  PTHARUFLGKW W hhhh included. PTHARUFLGK Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky D-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. Done up in warm

beige and brown tones the small lobby contains a round the clock concierge desk, a lounge with art dec o accents and the reception desk which is conveniently headed by flat screen televisions listing information for any conference groups in attendance. Each of the standard rooms have everything  the modern businessperson or tourist could need or want, including a fully stocked mini bar and above standard bath  facilities, while the be ds and linens make getting out of bed a real challenge. Amenities include a brightly hued 24 hour   fitness centre, underground parking and a Mediterranean restaurant with a view of bustling Ligovsky. Q195 rooms (183 doubles 5,685Rbl, 3 suite 12,884Rbl, 9 deluxe suite 8,337Rbl). Extra bed - 50% of current rate. Breakfast 990Rbl. PHAUFLGKW hhhh

PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Holiday Inn Saint-Petersburg Moskovskye Vorota A-4, Moskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 71, w ww.hi-spb.com. This huge newly built ho tel has the business traveller firmly in mind. There are three bars and two restaurants, a fitn ess centre and extensive state-of-the-art conference facilities. The rooms have all the mod-cons including under-floor heating. The executive suites have floor to ceiling windows with panaromic views, especially if you are on the 17th floor. Ideally located for getting to the airport (about 25 minutes by bus) and right next to the metro. Q557 rooms (361  singles 5,747 - 6,377Rbl, 33 suites 9,187 - 9,817Rbl, 98 Executive 6,177 - 6,807Rbl, 65 Delu xe 6,607 - 7,237Rbl). Extra be d 700Rbl. Breakfast 630Rbl. PTHAUFL� GBKW hhhh

Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to the international terminal of Pulkovo airport, this is the cit y‘s first airport hotel. The Crowne Plaza building is brand new and looks fantastic. A modern design on the building‘s facade includes quirky  windows in the guest rooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and  flexible conference ro om space. There‘s a spa and fi tness area with a Russian banya for post-flight relaxation and the hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals. Q294 rooms (6 sui tes 8,000Rbl, 43 Club Rooms 6,500Rbl, 245 Single/Double 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. VAT not  included. PTHAUFLGBKDW hhhh

Novotel St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located  just off N evsky pr, N ovotel bel ongs to the Acco r chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are new, modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-theart conference rooms and a fitness centre. Q 233 rooms (16 suites 8,600 - 9,200Rbl, 217 Single/double 5,500 - 7,500Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast 800Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh

(+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg. ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214

room hotel is aimed firmly at th e business traveller. With eight  conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly  room, and enormous desks in every room even the most  workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There‘s a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with views to the river, as well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (6 suites 15,500 - 18,000Rbl, 190 Delu xe 6,500 - 9,000Rbl, 12 Studio 9,500 - 12,000Rbl, 6 Junior Suite 12,500 - 15,000Rbl). Breakfast 985Rbl., not included in Suite/Junior Suite rates.

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Les Clefs’ d’Or Back in the bad old days, a Russian concierge would probably be considered simply as glorified security  guard, checking the comings and goings of guests and offering little in terms of local knowledge and professional expertise. Thankfully those days have long since passed and nowadays the role of  concierge is one taken as seriously in Russia as in any  other western country. In fact numerous St. Petersburg  hotels now have concierges who are members of the prestigious professional association Les Clefs’ d’Or which was founded in France in 1929. L ook out for members of  staff wearing the distinctive golden keys badge on their  lapel in places such as Taleon, Grand Hotel Europe and Corinthia. These highly qualified concierges are there to make your stay as special and comfortable as possible and you can expect them to be a fountain of knowledge about everything - they can book tickets and make reservations for you, recommend restaurants, organise unique excursions or simply help you find a good tail or.

Hotel Booking Baltic Hotels Aliance Pr. Veteranov 147, lit B,

MPr.Veteranov,tel.(+7) 812 300 48 10, www. hotel-in-petersburg.com

Offering hotel booking  services for any budget, whether you’re a jet-setting  mogul in search of a five star hotel, an independent  traveler seeking a hostel or a family in need of a short-term  flat. Theyalso provide provide visasupport, can can arrange arrange transport  transport  or hire cars for their clients and organise tours in and around the city. Essentially, all of your travel concerns are taken care of by just one company. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. October - November 2012

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hotels

hotels

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W St. Petersburg C-2, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg.

Radisson Royal Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, w ww.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the well-

trained staff take a professional but personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There‘s the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner  lobby bar with it‘s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample conference and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (116 singles 25,000Rbl, 116 doubles 25,000Rbl, 18 suites 41,200Rbl). Extra b ed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast 1,300Rbl. PTHAUF� GKW hhhhh

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, VO, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is

a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walkways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. tower. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, furnishings, the rooms are crisp and bright with chaise-lounges, chaise-lounges, flat screen tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (21 suites 9,000 - 9,500Rbl, 21 apartments 11,000 - 11,500Rbl, 324 single/double 5,000 - 6,400Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. Breakfast 1,100Rbl. PTHAR6UFLGB� KDCW hhhhh

Taleon Imperial Hotel C-2, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, w ww.taleonimperialhotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St Petersburg,

the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably  decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites have to be seen to be beli eved. On the top floor, there‘s a spa with summer terrace an d wonderful views over the ci ty. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel‘s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant  offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (72 singles 26,000Rbl, 17 doubles 26,000Rbl, 40 suites 31,200 - 350,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast 1,750Rbl. PTHAUFLG� BKDCW hhhhh

For hundreds more reviews of hotels across Russia and Eastern Europe check out our website www.inyourpocket.com

com. Impressive as the grey granite facade i s, guests are in  for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thorou ghly  contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not  merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cocktails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of  St. Isaac‘s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship. Meeting spaces contain state-of-the-art technology along with unique sensory  devices to keep ideas flowing. Each room wows with their  signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (127 singles, 127 doubles, 10 suites). Breakfast  1,500Rbl., incl. depending on a room type. PTHAR�

6UFGBKDCW hhhhh

4 Stars Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel B-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 5000,w ww.courtyardstpeters ww.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.r burgpushkin.ru. u. This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of con ference space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which has  free WiFi), WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; restaurants; one of them, them, the reasonreasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of b eer. eer. There‘s also a small gym on the third floor. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet l ocation on Kanal Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms (167  singles 6,000Rbl, 100 doubles 6,000Rbl, 5 suites 9,000Rbl, 1 wedding suite 11,900Rbl). VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) not  PTHARUFLGKW W hhhh included. PTHARUFLGK Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.

beige and brown tones the small lobby contains a round the clock concierge desk, a lounge with art dec o accents and the reception desk which is conveniently headed by flat screen televisions listing information for any conference groups in attendance. Each of the standard rooms have everything  the modern businessperson or tourist could need or want, including a fully stocked mini bar and above standard bath  facilities, while the be ds and linens make getting out of bed a real challenge. Amenities include a brightly hued 24 hour   fitness centre, underground parking and a Mediterranean restaurant with a view of bustling Ligovsky. Q195 rooms (183 doubles 5,685Rbl, 3 suite 12,884Rbl, 9 deluxe suite 8,337Rbl). Extra bed - 50% of current rate. Breakfast 990Rbl. PHAUFLGKW hhhh

PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Holiday Inn Saint-Petersburg Moskovskye Vorota A-4, Moskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 71, w ww.hi-spb.com. This huge newly built ho tel has the business traveller firmly in mind. There are three bars and two restaurants, a fitn ess centre and extensive state-of-the-art conference facilities. The rooms have all the mod-cons including under-floor heating. The executive suites have floor to ceiling windows with panaromic views, especially if you are on the 17th floor. Ideally located for getting to the airport (about 25 minutes by bus) and right next to the metro. Q557 rooms (361  singles 5,747 - 6,377Rbl, 33 suites 9,187 - 9,817Rbl, 98 Executive 6,177 - 6,807Rbl, 65 Delu xe 6,607 - 7,237Rbl). Extra be d 700Rbl. Breakfast 630Rbl. PTHAUFL� GBKW hhhh

Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to the international terminal of Pulkovo airport, this is the cit y‘s first airport hotel. The Crowne Plaza building is brand new and looks fantastic. A modern design on the building‘s facade includes quirky  windows in the guest rooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and  flexible conference ro om space. There‘s a spa and fi tness area with a Russian banya for post-flight relaxation and the hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals. Q294 rooms (6 sui tes 8,000Rbl, 43 Club Rooms 6,500Rbl, 245 Single/Double 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. VAT not  included. PTHAUFLGBKDW hhhh

Novotel St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located  just off N evsky pr, N ovotel bel ongs to the Acco r chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are new, modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-theart conference rooms and a fitness centre. Q 233 rooms (16 suites 8,600 - 9,200Rbl, 217 Single/double 5,500 - 7,500Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast 800Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh

(+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg. ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214

room hotel is aimed firmly at th e business traveller. With eight  conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly  room, and enormous desks in every room even the most  workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There‘s a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with views to the river, as well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (6 suites 15,500 - 18,000Rbl, 190 Delu xe 6,500 - 9,000Rbl, 12 Studio 9,500 - 12,000Rbl, 6 Junior Suite 12,500 - 15,000Rbl). Breakfast 985Rbl., not included in Suite/Junior Suite rates.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

26

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky D-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. Done up in warm

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Nevsky and within a stone‘s throw of Moskovsky railway  station, you couldn‘t dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day  and is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky  and plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. A  great choice for those here to enjoy the city‘s tourist deli ghts. Q269 rooms (32 singles 5,300 - 11,300Rbl, 235 doubles 6,000 - 12,000Rbl, 2 suites 11,300 - 18,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. P1TJHAUFLGKW hhhh

looking for a hotel that does things righ t, the Olympia Garden is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete the small but functional rooms. The mattresses were even designed using NASA technology. The size difference between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone the standard will suffice. There are multiple conference rooms, holding up to 350 people, and free wifi and laptop rentals. Q348 rooms (13 suites 6,500 - 7,300Rbl, 348 single/double 3,500 - 5,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast (850Rbl) not included. PTHAR6UFL� GKDW hhhh

Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-2, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.

sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg 

www.sokoshotels.fi brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication to the city. The rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors and the usual mod-cons. In the hotel you‘ll find the wonderful 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the older  side of Vasilevsky Island, it‘s good for those interested in sightseeing. Q255 rooms (197 Standard 5,400 - 5,900Rbl, 36 Superior 6,200 - 6,700Rbl, 10 Mansard room 6,900 - 7,400Rbl, 12 Suite 8,400 - 8,900Rbl, 1 Executive Suite 10,400 - 10,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Registration 150Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh

For hundreds more reviews of hotels across Russia check out our website www.inyourpocket.com

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Pr. Veteranov 147, lit B, 812 300 48 10, www. hotel-in-petersburg.com

Offering hotel booking  services for any budget, whether you’re a jet-setting  mogul in search of a five star hotel, an independent  traveler seeking a hostel or a family in need of a short-term  flat. Theyalso provide provide visasupport, can can arrange arrange transport  transport  or hire cars for their clients and organise tours in and around the city. Essentially, all of your travel concerns are taken care of by just one company. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. October - November 2012

€€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€€ 1,2 00Rbl plus

Russian

nyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson. ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel

www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler 

Baltic Hotels Aliance MPr.Veteranov,tel.(+7)

Our price guide is based on the average price of  a main course:

 € - 0 - 400Rbl  €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl

Radisson Sonya Hotel D-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MCher-

Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden B-3, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky Tekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70,

Hotel Booking

St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. Tip for good service only - 10% is con sidered  fair. M enus in Englis h ava ilable unless otherwi se s tated. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already  included service.

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg D-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpeterburg. Facing onto

P1THA6UFGKDW hhhh

Back in the bad old days, a Russian concierge would probably be considered simply as glorified security  guard, checking the comings and goings of guests and offering little in terms of local knowledge and professional expertise. Thankfully those days have long since passed and nowadays the role of  concierge is one taken as seriously in Russia as in any  other western country. In fact numerous St. Petersburg  hotels now have concierges who are members of the prestigious professional association Les Clefs’ d’Or which was founded in France in 1929. L ook out for members of  staff wearing the distinctive golden keys badge on their  lapel in places such as Taleon, Grand Hotel Europe and Corinthia. These highly qualified concierges are there to make your stay as special and comfortable as possible and you can expect them to be a fountain of knowledge about everything - they can book tickets and make reservations for you, recommend restaurants, organise unique excursions or simply help you find a good tail or.

RestauRants

hotels

looks like something from another planet compared to some of the other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer  wallpaper. Themed around Dostoevsky‘s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere  from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with glass fronted kitchen is stunning. Q173 rooms (2 suites 16,000 - 16,600Rbl, 130 Standard Single/Double 6,000 - 6,600Rbl, 41 Business Single/Double 8,400 - 9,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl.

Les Clefs’ d’Or

3 Stars Herzen House C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel. ru. Central and clean, Herzen House is at the top of four 

 floors on the lovely Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa and has be en completely renovated. Simple and convenient, with 20 rooms across one floor, the twin superior is spacious with modern upholstery and a choice of views onto t he courtyard or street. There are tiled terracotta floors and a good buffet area to  feast on a hot breakfast or in which to enjoy an afternoon tea around the samovar with Russian musical accompaniment. Free Wi-fi and 24hr internet access in the reception, DVDs and kids toys can be borrowed from reception. Q21 rooms (6 Standard 4,700 - 6,900Rbl, 8 Comfort 5,100 - 7,900Rbl, 13 Superior 5,500 - 8,300Rbl, 2 Deluxe 5,900 - 9,400Rbl). Extra bed 1,400Rbl. PTAGW hhh IBIS St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www. ibishotel.com/6157. Smart and clean with the appear-

ance of an upmarket hotel, the new Ibis is marketed for  those in search of reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great  option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (3 suites 6,500 - 10,500Rbl, 218 single/double 3,500 - 5,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl 1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast not included (480 Rbl). PHAULGKW hhh

Hostels Cubahostel C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cuba-

hostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind

Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The  fourteen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs there‘s a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though guests also get special offers including a welcome drink  at Atelierbar a few minutes‘ walk away. The staff organise events including regular  banya  trips, and can also hook  guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right  of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Linen included. Q15 rooms (dorm beds 490 - 800Rbl). JRLNGW st petersburg inyourpo cket com

Dachniki C-2, Nevsky pr. 20, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 91 60. There‘s something about this place which feels genuinely reminiscent of a real Russian dacha. Perhaps it‘s the log cabin walls, the crazy crockery or the kitsch porcelain figurines, or maybe it‘s the fact that the wait staff are wearing flowery aprons over their everyday  clothes and there‘s some guys playing cards in the corner… well whatever it is, this piece of Soviet nostalgia has some soul to it. The menu specialises in those simple favourites such as draniki (potato pancakes) and kotlety  (meat patties) and includes lots of vegetarian options. Complimenting  the theme they have an open barbeque for grilling meat and offer their own homemade alcohol. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.  €. PTAGSW Levin C-2, Malaya Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently  located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere, with books lining the walls and comfortable couches and chairs. Their  menu has a selection of moderately-priced homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very accomdating to foreign guests, and have a bilingual menu and  free wifi. The servi ce is amon g the fastest you‘ll find in St. Petersburg - you‘re not going to waste fifteen minutes waiting   for someone to bring you a menu. I t‘s not usually very bu sy  or loud, so it‘s a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW Mari Vanna D-1, Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for  this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend‘s house - and what kind of guest  would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unl ocked for you and you‘ll be invited in to dine on traditional Rus sian home food such as borshch, pelmeni  and pirogi  in a cute little place designed to look  like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not  mind-blowing, just plain good and filling, but the service and homely atmosphere, complete wi th toys and crayons for the kids, make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW

catering.ru/restaurants/na-zdorovie/. This cheerful, cosy 

restaurant called Na Zdorovie (Russian for ‚to your health!‘) serves excellent Russian and Soviet cuisine. It is a good restaurant for tourists looking for a taste of typical Russian  food. Take our word word for it, everythin everythin g we tried here tasted really fresh - as if a Russian babushka (grandmother) prepared it herself. Don‘t forget to try the typical Russian drinks kvas  and mors . QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEBSW NEP D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 37 22, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry  swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softl y lit  with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality  packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you‘re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you‘ll find yourself  part of the night‘s entertainment. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:30 €€. PAEBSW Russian Kitch C-2, VO, Universitetskaya nab. 25, MVas-

Symbol Key P Air conditioning  E Live music T Child friendly  G Non-smoking areas B Outside seating  V Home delivery 

Na Zdorovie! D-1, Bolshoy pr. 13/4, Petrograd Side, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 40 39, old.concord-

ileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 11 22, old.concordcatering.ru/restaurants/russian-kitch/. Is that Brezhnev

A Credit cards accepted S Take away  U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking  W Wi-Fi connection M Nearest metro station

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

and Castro we see kissing on the ceiling? Bear rugs, sumptuous cushions, multi-coloured walls, leopard print sofas, embellished pillars - could it get more kitsch than this? This restaurant i s ironic on a grand scale in a grand l ocation, overlooking the river  Neva, with six dining halls, a conser vatory and a dance floor. If it‘s vodka and caviar you‘re after, they have both black and red caviar with blini and many types of vodka - and the general cuisine is great. The waiter was so quick we could hardly finish our dishes! QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALES October - November 2012

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RestauRants

hotels St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. Tip for good service only - 10% is con sidered  fair. M enus in Englis h ava ilable unless otherwi se s tated. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already  included service.

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg D-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpeterburg. Facing onto

Nevsky and within a stone‘s throw of Moskovsky railway  station, you couldn‘t dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day  and is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky  and plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. A  great choice for those here to enjoy the city‘s tourist deli ghts. Q269 rooms (32 singles 5,300 - 11,300Rbl, 235 doubles 6,000 - 12,000Rbl, 2 suites 11,300 - 18,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. P1TJHAUFLGKW hhhh

Our price guide is based on the average price of  a main course:

 € - 0 - 400Rbl  €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl

nyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson. ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel

P1THA6UFGKDW hhhh

Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden B-3, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky Tekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70,

www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler 

looking for a hotel that does things righ t, the Olympia Garden is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete the small but functional rooms. The mattresses were even designed using NASA technology. The size difference between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone the standard will suffice. There are multiple conference rooms, holding up to 350 people, and free wifi and laptop rentals. Q348 rooms (13 suites 6,500 - 7,300Rbl, 348 single/double 3,500 - 5,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast (850Rbl) not included. PTHAR6UFL� GKDW hhhh

Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-2, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.

sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg 

www.sokoshotels.fi brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication to the city. The rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors and the usual mod-cons. In the hotel you‘ll find the wonderful 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the older  side of Vasilevsky Island, it‘s good for those interested in sightseeing. Q255 rooms (197 Standard 5,400 - 5,900Rbl, 36 Superior 6,200 - 6,700Rbl, 10 Mansard room 6,900 - 7,400Rbl, 12 Suite 8,400 - 8,900Rbl, 1 Executive Suite 10,400 - 10,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Registration 150Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh

For hundreds more reviews of hotels across Russia check out our website www.inyourpocket.com

3 Stars Herzen House C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel. ru. Central and clean, Herzen House is at the top of four 

 floors on the lovely Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa and has be en completely renovated. Simple and convenient, with 20 rooms across one floor, the twin superior is spacious with modern upholstery and a choice of views onto t he courtyard or street. There are tiled terracotta floors and a good buffet area to  feast on a hot breakfast or in which to enjoy an afternoon tea around the samovar with Russian musical accompaniment. Free Wi-fi and 24hr internet access in the reception, DVDs and kids toys can be borrowed from reception. Q21 rooms (6 Standard 4,700 - 6,900Rbl, 8 Comfort 5,100 - 7,900Rbl, 13 Superior 5,500 - 8,300Rbl, 2 Deluxe 5,900 - 9,400Rbl). Extra bed 1,400Rbl. PTAGW hhh IBIS St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www. ibishotel.com/6157. Smart and clean with the appear-

ance of an upmarket hotel, the new Ibis is marketed for  those in search of reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great  option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (3 suites 6,500 - 10,500Rbl, 218 single/double 3,500 - 5,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl 1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast not included (480 Rbl). PHAULGKW hhh

Hostels Cubahostel C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cuba-

hostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind

Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The  fourteen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs there‘s a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though guests also get special offers including a welcome drink  at Atelierbar a few minutes‘ walk away. The staff organise events including regular  banya  trips, and can also hook  guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right  of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Linen included. Q15 rooms (dorm beds 490 - 800Rbl). JRLNGW

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

28

€€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€€ 1,2 00Rbl plus

Russian

Radisson Sonya Hotel D-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MCher-

looks like something from another planet compared to some of the other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer  wallpaper. Themed around Dostoevsky‘s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere  from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with glass fronted kitchen is stunning. Q173 rooms (2 suites 16,000 - 16,600Rbl, 130 Standard Single/Double 6,000 - 6,600Rbl, 41 Business Single/Double 8,400 - 9,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl.

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Dachniki C-2, Nevsky pr. 20, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 91 60. There‘s something about this place which feels genuinely reminiscent of a real Russian dacha. Perhaps it‘s the log cabin walls, the crazy crockery or the kitsch porcelain figurines, or maybe it‘s the fact that the wait staff are wearing flowery aprons over their everyday  clothes and there‘s some guys playing cards in the corner… well whatever it is, this piece of Soviet nostalgia has some soul to it. The menu specialises in those simple favourites such as draniki (potato pancakes) and kotlety  (meat patties) and includes lots of vegetarian options. Complimenting  the theme they have an open barbeque for grilling meat and offer their own homemade alcohol. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.  €. PTAGSW Levin C-2, Malaya Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently  located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere, with books lining the walls and comfortable couches and chairs. Their  menu has a selection of moderately-priced homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very accomdating to foreign guests, and have a bilingual menu and  free wifi. The servi ce is amon g the fastest you‘ll find in St. Petersburg - you‘re not going to waste fifteen minutes waiting   for someone to bring you a menu. I t‘s not usually very bu sy  or loud, so it‘s a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW Mari Vanna D-1, Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for  this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend‘s house - and what kind of guest  would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unl ocked for you and you‘ll be invited in to dine on traditional Rus sian home food such as borshch, pelmeni  and pirogi  in a cute little place designed to look  like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not  mind-blowing, just plain good and filling, but the service and homely atmosphere, complete wi th toys and crayons for the kids, make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW

P Air conditioning  E Live music T Child friendly  G Non-smoking areas B Outside seating  V Home delivery 

Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other  scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that  green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually 

 finds its way into everything.

Yolki-Palki D-3, Nevsky pr. 88, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 15 94, www.elki-palki.ru. Aimed at the tourist market, this slightly cheesy Russian eatery packs in both Russians and foreigners alike. They come here for the good value meals, the staff mincing around in traditional costume and that aromatic smell of shashlik from behind the grill. Sit un der the plastic forest  canopy (somehow this is oddly appealing), while filling up on an all-you-can-eat plate from the buffet wagons or order something 

571 03 85. Q Open 24hrs. €. PTANBS

Asian

all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well as small open sandwiches (buterbro d-бутерброд). Pancakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar  (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling  such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgush onka - сгущенка).

Soups and salads Russians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally  hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trou t  is another favourite as is the heav y meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka (солянка) . Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either  cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot. Main dishes

- boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic,  famous across the world. Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually  made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cabbage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the small versions that look like little buns. Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made with minced beef  (govyadina - говядина) or pork  (svinina - свинина) . Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce. Pelmeni (пельмени)

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

catering.ru/restaurants/na-zdorovie/. This cheerful, cosy 

restaurant called Na Zdorovie (Russian for ‚to your health!‘) serves excellent Russian and Soviet cuisine. It is a good restaurant for tourists looking for a taste of typical Russian  food. Take our word word for it, everythin everythin g we tried here tasted really fresh - as if a Russian babushka (grandmother) prepared it herself. Don‘t forget to try the typical Russian drinks kvas  and mors . QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEBSW NEP D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 37 22, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry  swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softl y lit  with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality  packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you‘re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you‘ll find yourself  part of the night‘s entertainment. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:30 €€. PAEBSW ileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 11 22, old.concordcatering.ru/restaurants/russian-kitch/. Is that Brezhnev

A Credit cards accepted S Take away  U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking  W Wi-Fi connection M Nearest metro station

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

and Castro we see kissing on the ceiling? Bear rugs, sumptuous cushions, multi-coloured walls, leopard print sofas, embellished pillars - could it get more kitsch than this? This restaurant i s ironic on a grand scale in a grand l ocation, overlooking the river  Neva, with six dining halls, a conser vatory and a dance floor. If it‘s vodka and caviar you‘re after, they have both black and red caviar with blini and many types of vodka - and the general cuisine is great. The waiter was so quick we could hardly finish our dishes! QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALES October - November 2012

RestauRants

 from the menu. menu. Also at Malaya Konyushennay Konyushennaya a 9, tel. tel. (+7) (+7) 812

Bliny and snacks Snacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include

Na Zdorovie! D-1, Bolshoy pr. 13/4, Petrograd Side, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 40 39, old.concord-

Russian Kitch C-2, VO, Universitetskaya nab. 25, MVas-

Symbol Key

RestauRants Russian Cuisine

27

King Pong C-2, Bolshaya Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.ru. The bright  colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling  up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‚European‘ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to add yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAEGBSW Tandoor C-2, Admiralteisky pr.10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaac‘s cathedral, Tandoor is about as  far away frombland Russian food as you can get. For For 15 years now they‘ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant‘ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last  dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city‘s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW

Beer Restaur Restaurants ants Baltika Brew C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 3/5, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 921 09 12, www. baltika-brew.ru. Located in a monolithic example of Soviet 

neoclassicism and just a stone‘s throw from Palace Square,

there‘s not much that‘s “micro” about this brew restaurant.

The space is vast, with towering ceilings and an open floorplan that could lead to some interesting discussions with  fellow beer afficianados or just make make you feel a bit bit lost. They   feature live music at the weekends and while every thing on the menu is delicious, we recommend the Indian dishes, especially the lamb samosas and curry. Cavernous or not, the friendly service, tasty pints and gorgeous food will keep us coming back for more. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAESW Der Spieler C-2, Stolyarny per. 13, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 46 30, www.derspieler.ru. Der Spiegel is located on the street where Crime and Punishment‘s Raskolnikov was supposed to have lived, and indeed, the menu of the restaurant informs you that Dostoevsky himsel f  used to frequent a traktir that was at this very location, and Turgenev was a fan as well. They purport to keep the spirit  of this traktir alive through present day, with the exposed beams and wood-heavy interior decorations and games available for guests to play that would have been there for  Dostoevsky (a noted gambler) to partake in. The modern rock music and large screen television, however, make it  hard to transport yourself back to the era they claim to try  to emulate. As the name implies, it‘s a German pub, and they have a relativel y large menu for a pub, with many soups and salads and hearty entrees. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PASW

Foggy Dew Ul. Vosstaniya 39, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 62 63, www.foggydewpub.ru. Foggy  Dew is a small establishment near Chernyshevskaya, and has two more locations in the city. The clientele seems to lean heavily toward businessmen in th e area, who like to sit at the bar and chat with their favorite bartenders while watching sports. They have a good selection of  whisky and beer from the British Isles. The prices, at first  glance, seem a bit steep for the kind of food you are getting (Irish pub food classics, heavy on the roast b eef, with a couple of Russian favorites thrown in), but if you come Monday through Friday from 12-4, all of the food on the menu is 20% off. So if it‘s lunchtime and you want a beer  that was not brewed by Baltika, you could d o worse. Also at Chkalovsky pr. 58 (metro Petrogradskaya). Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAS Kriek Brasserie D-1, PS, Maly pr. 48, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 235 46 21, ww w.kriek.ru. w.kriek.ru. With five boutique beers on tap including the namesake of the brasserie itself, Timmermans Kriek, this is a place more to wet your whistle than fill your stomach. If you are looking for a glass of cold sweet cherry beer and Belgian chocolate, then this place will be the answer to your prayers. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30.  €. PAES

Sukhoe = Dry Polusladkoe = Semi-sweet Sladkoe = Sweet

Tandoori Nights C-2, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinight sspb.com.

There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. There‘s plenty of opti ons for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. Free wifi. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PASW

Bakeries Bushe bakery C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 53 71, ww w.bushe.ru. They have wonderful croissants and cakes for special occasions. Bread comes in all shapes and sizes, with grains, with seeds, with or without fruit. Also at Ul. Razezzhaya 13, tel. (+7) 812 315

53 71 QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. €. PTANGS

Gosti C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Dining in this continental cafe is a bit like going to your provincial granny‘s cottage. If your granny has as much taste as she does kni ckknacks. Each of the rooms has plenty of florals, books and decorative odds and ends on the wall, but the effect is homey  rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly and the menu boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas and dishes fresh off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes allude again to the generousity of granny and can easily be divided into two meals. Q Open 08:00 until last guest €€. PTAEGBSW st petersburg inyourpo cket com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

29

28

RestauRants Russian Cuisine Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other  scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that  green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually 

 finds its way into everything.

RestauRants Yolki-Palki D-3, Nevsky pr. 88, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 15 94, www.elki-palki.ru. Aimed at the tourist market, this slightly cheesy Russian eatery packs in both Russians and foreigners alike. They come here for the good value meals, the staff mincing around in traditional costume and that aromatic smell of shashlik from behind the grill. Sit un der the plastic forest  canopy (somehow this is oddly appealing), while filling up on an all-you-can-eat plate from the buffet wagons or order something   from the menu. menu. Also at Malaya Konyushennay Konyushennaya a 9, tel. tel. (+7) (+7) 812

571 03 85. Q Open 24hrs. €. PTANBS

Asian

Bliny and snacks Snacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well as small open sandwiches (buterbro d-бутерброд). Pancakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar  (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling  such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgush onka - сгущенка).

Soups and salads Russians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally  hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trou t  is another favourite as is the heav y meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka (солянка) . Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either  cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot. Main dishes

- boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic,  famous across the world. Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually  made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cabbage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the small versions that look like little buns. Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made with minced beef  (govyadina - говядина) or pork  (svinina - свинина) . Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce. Pelmeni (пельмени)

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

30

King Pong C-2, Bolshaya Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.ru. The bright  colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling  up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‚European‘ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to add yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAEGBSW Tandoor C-2, Admiralteisky pr.10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaac‘s cathedral, Tandoor is about as  far away frombland Russian food as you can get. For For 15 years now they‘ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant‘ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last  dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city‘s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW

Beer Restaur Restaurants ants Baltika Brew C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 3/5, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 921 09 12, www. baltika-brew.ru. Located in a monolithic example of Soviet 

neoclassicism and just a stone‘s throw from Palace Square,

there‘s not much that‘s “micro” about this brew restaurant.

The space is vast, with towering ceilings and an open floorplan that could lead to some interesting discussions with  fellow beer afficianados or just make make you feel a bit bit lost. They   feature live music at the weekends and while every thing on the menu is delicious, we recommend the Indian dishes, especially the lamb samosas and curry. Cavernous or not, the friendly service, tasty pints and gorgeous food will keep us coming back for more. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAESW Der Spieler C-2, Stolyarny per. 13, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 46 30, www.derspieler.ru. Der Spiegel is located on the street where Crime and Punishment‘s Raskolnikov was supposed to have lived, and indeed, the menu of the restaurant informs you that Dostoevsky himsel f  used to frequent a traktir that was at this very location, and Turgenev was a fan as well. They purport to keep the spirit  of this traktir alive through present day, with the exposed beams and wood-heavy interior decorations and games available for guests to play that would have been there for  Dostoevsky (a noted gambler) to partake in. The modern rock music and large screen television, however, make it  hard to transport yourself back to the era they claim to try  to emulate. As the name implies, it‘s a German pub, and they have a relativel y large menu for a pub, with many soups and salads and hearty entrees. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PASW

(+7) 812 329 66 51, ww w.grandhoteleurope.com.

Fish House C-2, Grivtsova per. 4, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 448 22 77, ww w.fish-spb.ru. Fish, fish, more  fish and seafood - this is one for the piscivores, although with a good beef stroganoff on the menu carnivores will be happy too. This very plain looking fish house specialises in American style fish grills - th e portions are hu ge as well as the massive ceramics they arrive on. We enjoyed the trout with spinach, although it took a long time to grill it  to perfection. They also do some nice Russian pickled  fish with delicious bla ck bread. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30.  €€€€. PTAULESW Langust Bolshoy pr. 84 (Petrograd Side), MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 56 00. It is immediately  apparent upon entering that they take their seafood here very seriously indeed. After passing security on the first   floor, you leave the lift to be greeting by a massi ve concierge desk, a table offering glossy catalouges describing  their chef, ingredients and gastronomic philosophy and bubbling tanks of your soon to be appetizers. Once seated on either of their two floors and atop an overstuffed  floral ar mchair, you migh t find you‘re completely alone to contemplate their menu which is a careful selection of live or fresh from the sea fish, lobster and shellfish, plus imported meats such as French duck and Brazilian beef. Vegetarians don‘t have to fret with their appetizing sides, pastas and risottos also being beautifully  and deliciously prepared. Be aware prices are per 100 grams of uncooked seafood. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAEBSW

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Sukhoe = Dry Polusladkoe = Semi-sweet Sladkoe = Sweet

There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. There‘s plenty of opti ons for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. Free wifi. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PASW

Bakeries Bushe bakery C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 53 71, ww w.bushe.ru. They have wonderful croissants and cakes for special occasions. Bread comes in all shapes and sizes, with grains, with seeds, with or without fruit. Also at Ul. Razezzhaya 13, tel. (+7) 812 315

53 71 QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. €. PTANGS

Gosti C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Dining in this continental cafe is a bit like going to your provincial granny‘s cottage. If your granny has as much taste as she does kni ckknacks. Each of the rooms has plenty of florals, books and decorative odds and ends on the wall, but the effect is homey  rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly and the menu boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas and dishes fresh off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes allude again to the generousity of granny and can easily be divided into two meals. Q Open 08:00 until last guest €€. PTAEGBSW st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

RestauRants Marius Pub D-3, Ul. Marata 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 48 80, www.mariuspub.ru. Marius is conveniently located in a hotel next to the Mayakovskaya metro station. The atmosph ere is a little bit more formal than what one

would go to for a nice meal, rather than just hang out and watch the game. They also do n ot have as many different kinds of beers as you might expect from a place that bills itself as a pub. It is a Czech-themed pub, rather than a British or Irish one, so the menu leans more Central European, with lots of sausage and goulash. They have a steak menu as well. As it is part of a hotel in the center of the city, they are well-prepared for dealing with  foreign  foreign guests. guests. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTAULESW

Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the  first tier of the Grand Ho tel Europe‘s elegant s taircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering  candles. While much fine dining in the city is devoted to the French arts, Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioning proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many  an appearance on the menu, but never one that is out  of place. The Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, accompanied by the delicate black beluga is a dish to die  for,  for, but that des cription prett y much covers every thing  on the menu, whether you‘re venturing into the seafood dishes, the game or touring your way around heavenly  hors d‘oeuvres while sampling the little waters recommended by the city‘s only vodka sommelier. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALEW

Kriek Brasserie D-1, PS, Maly pr. 48, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 235 46 21, ww w.kriek.ru. w.kriek.ru. With five boutique beers on tap including the namesake of the brasserie itself, Timmermans Kriek, this is a place more to wet your whistle than fill your stomach. If you are looking for a glass of cold sweet cherry beer and Belgian chocolate, then this place will be the answer to your prayers. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30.  €. PAES

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinight sspb.com.

thinks of when you think of a „pub.“ It is more of a place tha t you

Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-2, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel.

Foggy Dew Ul. Vosstaniya 39, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 62 63, www.foggydewpub.ru. Foggy  Dew is a small establishment near Chernyshevskaya, and has two more locations in the city. The clientele seems to lean heavily toward businessmen in th e area, who like to sit at the bar and chat with their favorite bartenders while watching sports. They have a good selection of  whisky and beer from the British Isles. The prices, at first  glance, seem a bit steep for the kind of food you are getting (Irish pub food classics, heavy on the roast b eef, with a couple of Russian favorites thrown in), but if you come Monday through Friday from 12-4, all of the food on the menu is 20% off. So if it‘s lunchtime and you want a beer  that was not brewed by Baltika, you could d o worse. Also at Chkalovsky pr. 58 (metro Petrogradskaya). Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAS

Tandoori Nights C-2, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteis-

RestauRants Fruits de Mer

29

Paulaner D-3, Park Inn Nevsky Hotel, Nevsky pr. 89/ ul. Goncharnaya 4A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 13, www.paulaner-brauhaus.com. www.paulaner-brauhaus.com.Sit down round the shiny  brass brew-kettle and enjoy your fresh beer at the Paulaner  restaurant and microbrewery. microbrewery. With an ligh t filled atrium and big  windows facing on to Nevsky the whol e place, which spreads over many levels and around many corners, has a very relaxed light feel to it. The dark and light homebrewed beers taste lovely. Paulaner also has great Bavarian and Austrian food and the portions are massive! You can order a huge platter  to share between you and an army of friends or perhaps you want to hack into an enormous schnitzel or curry wurst  by yourself? Just don‘t look at the helpfully provided calorie count. Kids are well catered for with their own special menu. Also at Park Inn Pulkovskaya at pl. Pobedy 1 (metro Moskovskaya). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTAUESW

Cafes and Coffee houses Bubblemania C-2, Kirpichny per. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, www.bubblemania.ru. Bubblemania is the first and, so far, only place in the city that sells bubble tea, which is cold tea (in fruity and/or varieties) or coffee with chewy tapioca balls. Available flavors include different varieties of fruit, including  exotic varieties such as lychee, chocolate, almond, taro and caramel, as well as different flavors of the tapioca balls and  jelly „toppings“. So far, the only food food available here is donuts.

If you‘re a fan of bubble tea, what you will find here is not  different from what you would in other countries. Due to the novelty, it‘s quite popular, so you might find yourself waiting  in line or not having a place to sit. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €. PW

Cafe Singer С/D-2, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23. A long 

while back there used to be a terrible coffee shop here run by some of the most incompetent and unfriendly waiters in the city. Thankfully all traces of that establishment have completely disappeared. In its place you will fin d a large café serving decent coffee and cakes as well as classic Russian dishes like borsch and pelemeni. The staff here will actually  look you in the eye and bring you your menu/cappuccino/bill when you ask them for it and they can even be caught smiling  sometimes too. Combine that with a great view and stunning  art nouveau fittings and you can understand why it always seems to be so full. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGS

Miracle D-2, Moshkov per. 4 (corner of Dvortsovaya nab. 20), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 965 060 08 10. Associated

with the n earby artistic workspace Taiga, Taiga, Miracle is a unique ‘co-working‘ destination, great for those looking to sit and get  down to some work (or just a little light reading) in a quiet and unobtrusive atmosphere. It costs 100Rbl an hour to hang out  (the following hours cost less) and you can help yourself to as much of their complimentary teas as you want. The deligh tful interior, which is entirely handmade, is as quirky and bohemian as the owners and i f you drop by in the evenings they will be happy to let you jam with them on their many musical instruments or get involved in creative events such as poetry readings. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €. PEGBW

Caucasian and Central Asian Aragvi D-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 56 43. Argavi restaurant‘s light, minimal interior lets you wind down after a long day, with large windows offering enchanting views onto the Fontanky River  and embankment. We recommend getting a selection of  starters to share as the portions are generous. The lobio, a light bean salad, is fantastic, and the satsivi divine - chicken breast poached in a creamy walnut sauce. For something a bit heavier, the warm, doughy khachapuri oozes cheese and the pork shashlyk tickles the tastebuds. Q Open 11:00 23:00 €€. PASW Baklazhan D-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The

Canvas C-2, Pochtamtskaya ul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 00, www.renaissancesaintpetersburg.ru. Tucked away in the back of the Renaissance hotel,

the discreet Canvas restaurant is an obvious choice for quiet  lunch meetings - especially when you add in the large weekday  business lunch offer which also includes a Russian tea table with samovar. The menu changes regularly but by and large the focus is Russian and European with subtle international touches. Service is charming and efficient and the wait staff  must be commended for their professional approach and  friendly attitu de. Q Open 6:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 23:00. €€€€. Breakfast 1,250Rbl., business-lunch 650Rbl. PTAEBSW

Côté Jardin D-3, Novotel, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3a, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 60/(+7) 812

335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Like everything 

else in this smart hotel, the Côté Jardin restaurant is light, twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple airy and fresh. The business lunch buffets are quite a steal, to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall while the evening menu offers authentic Russian tastes as of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food well as French-inspired European European cuisine. For starters look ou t  itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative  for the ‚baltic plate‘ (pickled herring, smoked and marinated dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as th eir stuffed samsas , salmon, red caviar and black bread plus a shot of vodka) or  khachapuri and the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot  the classic borsch if you want something local. Opting for  goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last  the Mediterranean influenced part of the menu is especially  tempting too, the chef gives everything a li ght and fresh touch guest. €. PTALVESW and the sea bass in provencal herbs for example example is particularly  Khochu Kharcho C-2, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSado- popular. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30. €€. PTAULSW vaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho. com. “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho 

being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different different types of the dish and i t is definitely worth tr ying  as a warm and filling main course.This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big  difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western par t  of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking  and they like their food spicy. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri  or the fragrant  chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW

Gymnazya C-2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 933 07 58, www.gimnazya.ru.

Before the Bolshevik revolution there was a very well to do girls gymnasium school here (hence the name) and before that the building was part of a huge luxurious pala ce (hence the stunning interiors). Gymnaz ya still pays homage to its aristocratic history. Its many impressive halls are resplendent and feature restored interiors, plush furniture and sumptuous curtains draped across the 6 metre high walls. Modern hints are added to give things an up-to-date twist with contemporary murano glass chandeliers, jazzy-funk live music, a cocktail bar and a menu that boasts Russian and European classic dishes as well as Asian fusion and Japanese cuisine. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALEBSW Metamorfos E-2, Radisson Sonya Hotel, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 06, www.radissonblu.com. This stylish Russian restaurant  ticks all the boxes for those who are looking to sample real Russian food with a modern twist. The interior was design ed by the wildest imaginations of famous contemporary Swedish designers and the menu mixes up traditional Russian favourites with flair. It‘s possible to spend time just philosophising  over the menu itself, which has been designed to reflect a Dostoevskian novel. It‘s Russian, but not as you would usually  know it. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. Bar open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAUSW

Idealnaya Chashka D-2, D-3, Nevsky pr. 32/34, Vladimirskiy pr. 1, Kamennoostrovskiy pr. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 06, www.idealcup.ru. The Ideal Cup is St. Petersburg‘s most successful coffee-house chain; it has a couple of pleasant cafes on Nevsky prospekt alone. It ser ves good coffeeee in all forms imaginable including al coholic and non-alcoholi c coffee cocktails, at decent prices. The cakes, while very sweet - in true Russian tradition - are great, particularly the Black Forest. It can get rather busy here. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW st petersburg inyourpo cket com

European

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

31

30

RestauRants Fruits de Mer

RestauRants Marius Pub D-3, Ul. Marata 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 48 80, www.mariuspub.ru. Marius is conveniently located in a hotel next to the Mayakovskaya metro station. The atmosph ere is a little bit more formal than what one thinks of when you think of a „pub.“ It is more of a place tha t you

would go to for a nice meal, rather than just hang out and watch the game. They also do n ot have as many different kinds of beers as you might expect from a place that bills itself as a pub. It is a Czech-themed pub, rather than a British or Irish one, so the menu leans more Central European, with lots of sausage and goulash. They have a steak menu as well. As it is part of a hotel in the center of the city, they are well-prepared for dealing with  foreign  foreign guests. guests. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTAULESW

Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-2, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 51, ww w.grandhoteleurope.com.

Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the  first tier of the Grand Ho tel Europe‘s elegant s taircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering  candles. While much fine dining in the city is devoted to the French arts, Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioning proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many  an appearance on the menu, but never one that is out  of place. The Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, accompanied by the delicate black beluga is a dish to die  for,  for, but that des cription prett y much covers every thing  on the menu, whether you‘re venturing into the seafood dishes, the game or touring your way around heavenly  hors d‘oeuvres while sampling the little waters recommended by the city‘s only vodka sommelier. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALEW Fish House C-2, Grivtsova per. 4, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 448 22 77, ww w.fish-spb.ru. Fish, fish, more  fish and seafood - this is one for the piscivores, although with a good beef stroganoff on the menu carnivores will be happy too. This very plain looking fish house specialises in American style fish grills - th e portions are hu ge as well as the massive ceramics they arrive on. We enjoyed the trout with spinach, although it took a long time to grill it  to perfection. They also do some nice Russian pickled  fish with delicious bla ck bread. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30.  €€€€. PTAULESW Langust Bolshoy pr. 84 (Petrograd Side), MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 56 00. It is immediately  apparent upon entering that they take their seafood here very seriously indeed. After passing security on the first   floor, you leave the lift to be greeting by a massi ve concierge desk, a table offering glossy catalouges describing  their chef, ingredients and gastronomic philosophy and bubbling tanks of your soon to be appetizers. Once seated on either of their two floors and atop an overstuffed  floral ar mchair, you migh t find you‘re completely alone to contemplate their menu which is a careful selection of live or fresh from the sea fish, lobster and shellfish, plus imported meats such as French duck and Brazilian beef. Vegetarians don‘t have to fret with their appetizing sides, pastas and risottos also being beautifully  and deliciously prepared. Be aware prices are per 100 grams of uncooked seafood. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAEBSW

Paulaner D-3, Park Inn Nevsky Hotel, Nevsky pr. 89/ ul. Goncharnaya 4A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 13, www.paulaner-brauhaus.com. www.paulaner-brauhaus.com.Sit down round the shiny  brass brew-kettle and enjoy your fresh beer at the Paulaner  restaurant and microbrewery. microbrewery. With an ligh t filled atrium and big  windows facing on to Nevsky the whol e place, which spreads over many levels and around many corners, has a very relaxed light feel to it. The dark and light homebrewed beers taste lovely. Paulaner also has great Bavarian and Austrian food and the portions are massive! You can order a huge platter  to share between you and an army of friends or perhaps you want to hack into an enormous schnitzel or curry wurst  by yourself? Just don‘t look at the helpfully provided calorie count. Kids are well catered for with their own special menu. Also at Park Inn Pulkovskaya at pl. Pobedy 1 (metro Moskovskaya). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTAUESW

Cafes and Coffee houses Bubblemania C-2, Kirpichny per. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, www.bubblemania.ru. Bubblemania is the first and, so far, only place in the city that sells bubble tea, which is cold tea (in fruity and/or varieties) or coffee with chewy tapioca balls. Available flavors include different varieties of fruit, including  exotic varieties such as lychee, chocolate, almond, taro and caramel, as well as different flavors of the tapioca balls and  jelly „toppings“. So far, the only food food available here is donuts.

If you‘re a fan of bubble tea, what you will find here is not  different from what you would in other countries. Due to the novelty, it‘s quite popular, so you might find yourself waiting  in line or not having a place to sit. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €. PW

Cafe Singer С/D-2, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23. A long 

while back there used to be a terrible coffee shop here run by some of the most incompetent and unfriendly waiters in the city. Thankfully all traces of that establishment have completely disappeared. In its place you will fin d a large café serving decent coffee and cakes as well as classic Russian dishes like borsch and pelemeni. The staff here will actually  look you in the eye and bring you your menu/cappuccino/bill when you ask them for it and they can even be caught smiling  sometimes too. Combine that with a great view and stunning  art nouveau fittings and you can understand why it always seems to be so full. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGS

32

Miracle D-2, Moshkov per. 4 (corner of Dvortsovaya nab. 20), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 965 060 08 10. Associated

with the n earby artistic workspace Taiga, Taiga, Miracle is a unique ‘co-working‘ destination, great for those looking to sit and get  down to some work (or just a little light reading) in a quiet and unobtrusive atmosphere. It costs 100Rbl an hour to hang out  (the following hours cost less) and you can help yourself to as much of their complimentary teas as you want. The deligh tful interior, which is entirely handmade, is as quirky and bohemian as the owners and i f you drop by in the evenings they will be happy to let you jam with them on their many musical instruments or get involved in creative events such as poetry readings. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €. PEGBW

Caucasian and Central Asian Aragvi D-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 56 43. Argavi restaurant‘s light, minimal interior lets you wind down after a long day, with large windows offering enchanting views onto the Fontanky River  and embankment. We recommend getting a selection of  starters to share as the portions are generous. The lobio, a light bean salad, is fantastic, and the satsivi divine - chicken breast poached in a creamy walnut sauce. For something a bit heavier, the warm, doughy khachapuri oozes cheese and the pork shashlyk tickles the tastebuds. Q Open 11:00 23:00 €€. PASW Baklazhan D-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

vaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho. com. “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho 

being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different different types of the dish and i t is definitely worth tr ying  as a warm and filling main course.This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big  difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western par t  of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking  and they like their food spicy. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri  or the fragrant  chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW

Restaurant 12:00 - 24:00; сonfectionary 09:00 - 21:00

 €€. PASW

Fine dining  Dickens Restaurant С-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108 (2 floor), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. The popular Dickens pub has a

sophisticated restaurant upstairs. An open fire place greets you, along with giant imperial oil paintings, tall windows and candle lit tables - it l ooks like a posh pub inside a stately  home. There‘s a warm atmosphere and diverse menu, all food is of a high standard and luckily they serve large portions. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00.  €€€. PASW miX in St. Petersburg C-2, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg.com. The first restaurant in

Russia from multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. By combining haute cuisine with contemporary design, miX fits perfectly into the surrounds of what is now one of Russia‘s hippest hotels. Service is perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local and European dishes, all given the finest French touches by the highly  presentable chefs over in the open ki tchen. After examining the impressively long wine list be sure to sample one of their highly creative cocktails. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00 (breakfast 07:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 - 18:00, dinner  19:00 - 24:00). €€€€. PTAEGW St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

tel. (+7) 812 380 40 00, www.renaissancesaintpetersburg.ru. Tucked away in the back of the Renaissance hotel,

the discreet Canvas restaurant is an obvious choice for quiet  lunch meetings - especially when you add in the large weekday  business lunch offer which also includes a Russian tea table with samovar. The menu changes regularly but by and large the focus is Russian and European with subtle international touches. Service is charming and efficient and the wait staff  must be commended for their professional approach and  friendly attitu de. Q Open 6:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 23:00. €€€€. Breakfast 1,250Rbl., business-lunch 650Rbl. PTAEBSW

Côté Jardin D-3, Novotel, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3a, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 60/(+7) 812

335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Like everything 

Gymnazya C-2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 933 07 58, www.gimnazya.ru.

Before the Bolshevik revolution there was a very well to do girls gymnasium school here (hence the name) and before that the building was part of a huge luxurious pala ce (hence the stunning interiors). Gymnaz ya still pays homage to its aristocratic history. Its many impressive halls are resplendent and feature restored interiors, plush furniture and sumptuous curtains draped across the 6 metre high walls. Modern hints are added to give things an up-to-date twist with contemporary murano glass chandeliers, jazzy-funk live music, a cocktail bar and a menu that boasts Russian and European classic dishes as well as Asian fusion and Japanese cuisine. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALEBSW

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

RestauRants Palkin D-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they  come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The menu is bursting with luxuri ous foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally  changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.  €€€€. PTAEBW Russian Empire C-2, Nevsky pr. 17, Stroganov palace, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 43, old. concord-catering.ru/restaurants/russian-ampir/. The

three luxurious dining rooms each have their own individual atmosphere and all are decorated genuinely in the finest  style. Diners eat from Gianni Versace porcelain plates and drink wine out of Bohemian crystal glasses whilst surrounded by 24-carat gold ornaments, in what once was part of Stroganoff Palace. The wine and cognac list is extensive and rather exclusive: an armagnac from 1812 can be ordered  just by th e spoonful! Q Open 17:00 until last guest. €€€€. PTALEW

Truffle D-1, Bolshoy pr. 82 (Petrograd Side), MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 405 90 77. A downstairs bakery offering all manners of cakes, sweets and brea ds leads to a lofty second story restaurant with a view over  bustling Bolshoi prospect. The muted florals and cosy  French sitting room style of the place is well executed and thankfully so are the dish es. On offer offer are Russian and Italian classics, so if your party is split between those seeking a nice chicken Kiev and a crispy Neopoli tan pizza, this is your spot. It goes without saying, either save room for dessert especially the rich chocolate truffles (hence the name) or if savoury is more your thing, grab a bread basket to soak up all the sauce you can. Q

Canvas C-2, Pochtamtskaya ul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya,

Metamorfos E-2, Radisson Sonya Hotel, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 06, www.radissonblu.com. This stylish Russian restaurant  ticks all the boxes for those who are looking to sample real Russian food with a modern twist. The interior was design ed by the wildest imaginations of famous contemporary Swedish designers and the menu mixes up traditional Russian favourites with flair. It‘s possible to spend time just philosophising  over the menu itself, which has been designed to reflect a Dostoevskian novel. It‘s Russian, but not as you would usually  know it. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. Bar open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAUSW

RestauRants

Rubinstain D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 9/3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 400 00 22, www.rubinstain.ru. If you are walking past and think this place lo oks a bit bizarre and empty, that‘s because what you see up front is not the restaurant  proper - the real action is hidden way in the back. Full length windows give an eye-opening view on to a residential courtyard, while big screen football helps distract from some of  the less appetizing things that may be found in such yards. On the food side it‘s Russian and European. Avoid the boring  Rubinstain salad (isn‘t it usually called Caesar?) and go for  the lamb chops, blini or stroganoff instead, they are all quite satisfying and won‘t break the bank. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.  €€. PAEBW

European

else in this smart hotel, the Côté Jardin restaurant is light, twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple airy and fresh. The business lunch buffets are quite a steal, to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall while the evening menu offers authentic Russian tastes as of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food well as French-inspired European European cuisine. For starters look ou t  itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative  for the ‚baltic plate‘ (pickled herring, smoked and marinated dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as th eir stuffed samsas , salmon, red caviar and black bread plus a shot of vodka) or  khachapuri and the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot  the classic borsch if you want something local. Opting for  goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last  the Mediterranean influenced part of the menu is especially  tempting too, the chef gives everything a li ght and fresh touch guest. €. PTALVESW and the sea bass in provencal herbs for example example is particularly  Khochu Kharcho C-2, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSado- popular. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30. €€. PTAULSW

Idealnaya Chashka D-2, D-3, Nevsky pr. 32/34, Vladimirskiy pr. 1, Kamennoostrovskiy pr. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 06, www.idealcup.ru. The Ideal Cup is St. Petersburg‘s most successful coffee-house chain; it has a couple of pleasant cafes on Nevsky prospekt alone. It ser ves good coffeeee in all forms imaginable including al coholic and non-alcoholi c coffee cocktails, at decent prices. The cakes, while very sweet - in true Russian tradition - are great, particularly the Black Forest. It can get rather busy here. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

International Clean Plates Society C-2, Ul. Gorokhovaya 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 934 97 64, www. cleanplates.ru. Obshchestvo Chistykh Tarelok, Tarelok, or “The Clean Plates Society,” is a trendy café/bar located not far from the

Moika. It attracts a young, trend y clientele, and while the menu is not extensive, it‘s varied enou gh to satisfy a wide range of 

Mansarda C-2, Ul. Pochtamtskaya 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda. ru. Turn into the building signposted with Gazprom‘s

headquarters and head for the lift in the left side of the blindingly sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six floors up with a candid view of the nearby  golden dome of St. Isaacs Cathedral. The interior is understated and the glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. The cuisine is as crisp and modern as th e restaurant in which it‘s served and shouldn‘t disappoint. Classic European tastes dominate with Asian influences also given some attention and the fresh fish based dishes are particularly recommended. In warm weather  the rooftop terrace is an excellent venue for sunset  cocktails or Sunday brunch. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€.

PTALVSW

Moskva D-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. The rooftop location on the 6th

 floor of the upscale Nevsky Centre, draws in a dressier dressier crowd of wealthier diners looking to soak up the fancy view. The decor is done out in various shades of cream and the furniture is the muted and comfy yet expensive looking stuff that is typical of the Ginza brand‘s casual-chic style. Potted plants brighten the place up, as does fresh fruit at the open central cooking stations and while the menu looks over ambitious, hitting all corners of the globe with sushi, pizza, Russian classics and continental mains - the food is still well-made. The Moskva roof is al so a great place for evening drinks, and sipping cocktails on the huge sun-drenched terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of Vosstaniya square, we have to admit is pretty darn enjoyable. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. €€.

Hot off the Grill Koreiko Grill Bar Ul. Kolokolnaya 18, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 957 95 77, ww w.koreiko.com.

Despite its subterranean location this superior grill restaurant manages to be light and airy, cosy and dim all at  the same time. In the case of the former it‘s probably due to the cheerfully chirping parakeets on the window sills and colourful chalked wine menu above the small central bar. As for the cosy, cosy, it‘s all in the fireplace and rusti c wood accents. Of the menu itself, everyt hing off the grill comes seared to aesthetic and mouth-watering perfection, while other offerings such as pasta, soups and sandwiches are in filling proportions made with farm-fresh elements. Russian classics here also get a hearty recommendation. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PABW Korova Bar D-2/3, Ul. Karavannaya 8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 73 48, www.decadencegroup. ru. With cattle skins covering th e walls, the Korova (cow)

Bar is an elegant and comfortable restaurant where the chefs know their meat - American marbled beef - and how to prepare it. In their words „Korova Bar does NOT recommend well-done“ and quite right, too. Vegetarians

don‘t have to worry: Korova has many salads, s ome fish dishes and great desserts or they can load up on scrumptious sides, like cheesy baked potatoes and creamed spinach. They also offer delivery or uncooked cuts, the latter at a discount, of course. Also at Moskovsky pr. 97  (metro Moskovskie vorota). Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.  €€€. PTALSW

PTALVSW

tastes and palettes. There are salads, soups, “fast food” -

shawerma and a selection of gourmet hamburgers - as well as fancier main courses, such as steak and duck. There is even a vegetarian menu menu with lentils and cous cous. They also bring free bread and crudités, a rarity in Russian restaurants. There is a children‘s menu, but it‘s hard to imagine a child truly  being welcome here - the atmosphere is just too hipstery and the music selection probably wouldn‘t please parents. It is, however, a good option if you‘re dining alone, since you can eat at the bar. Prices are relatively reasona ble for the quality  and quantity of the food, but the menu is Russian-only. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTASW Leica C-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 96 95. Named after a fashionable camera brand, Leica is a cafe/bar that is themed around St. Petersburg hipster style, and, in keeping to the name of the place, it‘s not uncommon to see fashionably-dressed groups of youth taking pictures of their friends wi th their DSLR cameras. The  food is a moderately-priced mix of decent Russian Russian and Italian entrees, with pizza and pasta selections, and they have a brunch menu as well. The staff is English-friendly, and if you tend to get bored, you can even play games of Tic-Tac-Toe and Battleship on th e menus provided. Be warned, ho wever, wever, that on Friday and Saturday nights, you may find that th e main room of the restaurant has been turned into a disco, and if you want a quiet dinner, then it may be better to go elsewhere. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €. PTAW

To read about even more restaurants and cafes in St. Peterburg check out our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st petersburg inyourpo cket com

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st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

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RestauRants

Rubinstain D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 9/3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 400 00 22, www.rubinstain.ru. If you are walking past and think this place lo oks a bit bizarre and empty, that‘s because what you see up front is not the restaurant  proper - the real action is hidden way in the back. Full length windows give an eye-opening view on to a residential courtyard, while big screen football helps distract from some of  the less appetizing things that may be found in such yards. On the food side it‘s Russian and European. Avoid the boring  Rubinstain salad (isn‘t it usually called Caesar?) and go for  the lamb chops, blini or stroganoff instead, they are all quite satisfying and won‘t break the bank. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.  €€. PAEBW

RestauRants Palkin D-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they  come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The menu is bursting with luxuri ous foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally  changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.  €€€€. PTAEBW Russian Empire C-2, Nevsky pr. 17, Stroganov palace, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 43, old. concord-catering.ru/restaurants/russian-ampir/. The

three luxurious dining rooms each have their own individual atmosphere and all are decorated genuinely in the finest  style. Diners eat from Gianni Versace porcelain plates and drink wine out of Bohemian crystal glasses whilst surrounded by 24-carat gold ornaments, in what once was part of Stroganoff Palace. The wine and cognac list is extensive and rather exclusive: an armagnac from 1812 can be ordered  just by th e spoonful! Q Open 17:00 until last guest. €€€€. PTALEW

Truffle D-1, Bolshoy pr. 82 (Petrograd Side), MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 405 90 77. A downstairs bakery offering all manners of cakes, sweets and brea ds leads to a lofty second story restaurant with a view over  bustling Bolshoi prospect. The muted florals and cosy  French sitting room style of the place is well executed and thankfully so are the dish es. On offer offer are Russian and Italian classics, so if your party is split between those seeking a nice chicken Kiev and a crispy Neopoli tan pizza, this is your spot. It goes without saying, either save room for dessert especially the rich chocolate truffles (hence the name) or if savoury is more your thing, grab a bread basket to soak up all the sauce you can. Q Restaurant 12:00 - 24:00; сonfectionary 09:00 - 21:00

 €€. PASW

Fine dining  Dickens Restaurant С-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108 (2 floor), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. The popular Dickens pub has a

sophisticated restaurant upstairs. An open fire place greets you, along with giant imperial oil paintings, tall windows and candle lit tables - it l ooks like a posh pub inside a stately  home. There‘s a warm atmosphere and diverse menu, all food is of a high standard and luckily they serve large portions. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00.  €€€. PASW miX in St. Petersburg C-2, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg.com. The first restaurant in

Russia from multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. By combining haute cuisine with contemporary design, miX fits perfectly into the surrounds of what is now one of Russia‘s hippest hotels. Service is perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local and European dishes, all given the finest French touches by the highly  presentable chefs over in the open ki tchen. After examining the impressively long wine list be sure to sample one of their highly creative cocktails. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00 (breakfast 07:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 - 18:00, dinner  19:00 - 24:00). €€€€. PTAEGW

International Clean Plates Society C-2, Ul. Gorokhovaya 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 934 97 64, www. cleanplates.ru. Obshchestvo Chistykh Tarelok, Tarelok, or “The Clean Plates Society,” is a trendy café/bar located not far from the

Moika. It attracts a young, trend y clientele, and while the menu is not extensive, it‘s varied enou gh to satisfy a wide range of 

Good and Cheap Kroshka Kartoshka D-3, Nevsky pr. 122 A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 901 305 21 50, 50, www.kar toshka.com. This very no-frills joint is an ode to the humble potato ( kartoshka  kartoshka ). ). You can get your  kartoshka in the

kroshka style (i.e., baked) with a choice of fillings such as  feta cheese, bacon and sour cream or au bergine stew. They also do paninis, salads and very cheap beer to wash it all down. Also at ul. Mala ya Sadovaya 3 (metro Gostiny  Dvor). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. TGS Stolle Cafe D-2, Konushenny per. 1/6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 18 62, w ww.stolle.ru. Stolle‘s big attraction is their pies, which are quite possibly the best in St. Petersburg. Both sweet pies filled with fruit  or savoury pies with mushrooms, fish and meat all get  washed down nicely with a coffee (or two or three). The relaxing atmosphere is soothing and addictive. Stolle claims to have recreated to the feel and flavour of an early 20th century St. Petersburg cafe, but really it is something more reminiscent of a modern Viennese Cafe, especially on Vasilevsky Vasilevsky Island. Also at ul. Dekabristov 19, ul. Dekabristov 33, ul. Vosstaniya 32 an d VO, 1-linya 50. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. €. PTLVNS Teremok D-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 23 41, www.teremok.ru. Head upstairs and worship at the thron e of Teremok - the pancake or  bliny  kings. Although it is strictly fast food, the bliny  are assembled as you order them and there is a wide variety  including the Ilya Muromets, a popular concoction of  boiled pork, mushrooms and cheese. They also do difukha ) and  ferent porridgedishes, an awesome fish soup ( ukha  have beer on tap. There are also 49 takeaway Teremok  Teremok  stands dotted around the city. Restaurant also at Nevsky  pr. 93, check the other 35 locations via their website. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €. PTNGS

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Moskva D-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. The rooftop location on the 6th

 floor of the upscale Nevsky Centre, draws in a dressier dressier crowd of wealthier diners looking to soak up the fancy view. The decor is done out in various shades of cream and the furniture is the muted and comfy yet expensive looking stuff that is typical of the Ginza brand‘s casual-chic style. Potted plants brighten the place up, as does fresh fruit at the open central cooking stations and while the menu looks over ambitious, hitting all corners of the globe with sushi, pizza, Russian classics and continental mains - the food is still well-made. The Moskva roof is al so a great place for evening drinks, and sipping cocktails on the huge sun-drenched terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of Vosstaniya square, we have to admit is pretty darn enjoyable. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. €€.

skaya, tel. (+7) 812 957 95 77, ww w.koreiko.com.

Despite its subterranean location this superior grill restaurant manages to be light and airy, cosy and dim all at  the same time. In the case of the former it‘s probably due to the cheerfully chirping parakeets on the window sills and colourful chalked wine menu above the small central bar. As for the cosy, cosy, it‘s all in the fireplace and rusti c wood accents. Of the menu itself, everyt hing off the grill comes seared to aesthetic and mouth-watering perfection, while other offerings such as pasta, soups and sandwiches are in filling proportions made with farm-fresh elements. Russian classics here also get a hearty recommendation. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PABW Korova Bar D-2/3, Ul. Karavannaya 8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 73 48, www.decadencegroup. ru. With cattle skins covering th e walls, the Korova (cow)

Bar is an elegant and comfortable restaurant where the chefs know their meat - American marbled beef - and how to prepare it. In their words „Korova Bar does NOT recommend well-done“ and quite right, too. Vegetarians

don‘t have to worry: Korova has many salads, s ome fish dishes and great desserts or they can load up on scrumptious sides, like cheesy baked potatoes and creamed spinach. They also offer delivery or uncooked cuts, the latter at a discount, of course. Also at Moskovsky pr. 97  (metro Moskovskie vorota). Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.  €€€. PTALSW

PTALVSW

To read about even more restaurants and cafes in St. Peterburg check out our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Italian

restaurants next door) were inspired by the cutting-edge  fashions and neighbourhood feel ofthe Soho areas areas of London and New York and have successfully started creating their  own mini-soho in this historic corner of St. Petersburg, with the Soholounge being the most fashionable of their hit parade of restaurants. The huge pictures of Johnn y Depp and co. on the walls, original American mini-burgers, cosmopolitan ‚new American‘ menu, which includes great steaks, salads and vegetarian options and the outstanding cocktail-menu are pure Manhattan. Q Open Mon - Thu 12:00 - 00:00, Fri - Sat  12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. €€. PALESW

PTALVSW

Koreiko Grill Bar Ul. Kolokolnaya 18, MVladimir-

Leica C-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 96 95. Named after a fashionable camera brand, Leica is a cafe/bar that is themed around St. Petersburg hipster style, and, in keeping to the name of the place, it‘s not uncommon to see fashionably-dressed groups of youth taking pictures of their friends wi th their DSLR cameras. The  food is a moderately-priced mix of decent Russian Russian and Italian entrees, with pizza and pasta selections, and they have a brunch menu as well. The staff is English-friendly, and if you tend to get bored, you can even play games of Tic-Tac-Toe and Battleship on th e menus provided. Be warned, ho wever, wever, that on Friday and Saturday nights, you may find that th e main room of the restaurant has been turned into a disco, and if you want a quiet dinner, then it may be better to go elsewhere. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €. PTAW

Soup Wine C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, ww w.supvino.ru.Five tables with bar  stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of   fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and h ow easy  it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it  is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.  €. PAGS

teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 647 80 80, www.insoholounge. com. The owners of Soholounge (who also run the two bar/ 

headquarters and head for the lift in the left side of the blindingly sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six floors up with a candid view of the nearby  golden dome of St. Isaacs Cathedral. The interior is understated and the glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. The cuisine is as crisp and modern as th e restaurant in which it‘s served and shouldn‘t disappoint. Classic European tastes dominate with Asian influences also given some attention and the fresh fish based dishes are particularly recommended. In warm weather  the rooftop terrace is an excellent venue for sunset  cocktails or Sunday brunch. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€.

Hot off the Grill

shawerma and a selection of gourmet hamburgers - as well as fancier main courses, such as steak and duck. There is even a vegetarian menu menu with lentils and cous cous. They also bring free bread and crudités, a rarity in Russian restaurants. There is a children‘s menu, but it‘s hard to imagine a child truly  being welcome here - the atmosphere is just too hipstery and the music selection probably wouldn‘t please parents. It is, however, a good option if you‘re dining alone, since you can eat at the bar. Prices are relatively reasona ble for the quality  and quantity of the food, but the menu is Russian-only. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTASW

RestauRants

Soholounge D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MAdmiral-

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda. ru. Turn into the building signposted with Gazprom‘s

tastes and palettes. There are salads, soups, “fast food” -

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

34

Mansarda C-2, Ul. Pochtamtskaya 3, MAdmiralteis-

Cafe Plaza by illy Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport, Startovaya ul. 6, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. A real Italian café located in the

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Hotel, just some 300m away from the international airport Pulkovo-2. The interior  blends the Italian coffee brand Illy‘s trademark colours red, black and white and the menu combines the most popular  elements of Italian, European and Russian cuisine, all served  fresh in generous p ortions. The desserts are h omemade and of course the real Italian coffee is a must. For alcoholic beverages in the evening (the bar opens at 20:00) there‘s the Russian Standard Signature Bar nearby where you can grab a cocktail (or two) or of course a good strong  Russian Standard vodka to steady yourself before a long   flight. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. €€. PTAULGSW

Caffe Italia E-3, Pr. Bakunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 64 74, ww w.caffe-italia.ru. The cheerful and charming décor, with checked tablecloths, sunny yellow walls and Uffizi catalogues on the bookshelves, already  puts this café above the standard casual Italian bistro. On offer is a diverse range of authentic pasta dishes, pizzas, starters and paninis. The mozzarella stretches about a kilometer and the imported olive oil is positively  succulent. If you can restrain yourself, th e gorgeously presented desserts are worth th e effort effort and th e wine list is a spot-on selection of almost exclusively dry Italian vintages that won‘t break the bank. The menu is only available in Italian and Russian, but the En glish-speaking staff will be genuinely pleased to help should you ask. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PNSW Capuletti D-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 74, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 22 82, www.capuletti.info. This sprawling Italian restaurant has a cute cafe/deli style area in the front overlooking the street and wide bal conies, tables, vines and soaring ceilings in the back. Decorated in a homely  country style the many areas suit both intimate meals and  family dinners. The pizzas are a great choice coming straight   from a stone wood-fired oven oven and the grilled dishes are also definitely worth opting for. They also now serve a breakfast  menu from 09:00 - 15:00 with all the great favourites like brioche, panini, mueslis, inventi ve omelettes and good coffees. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVESW Fasta Pasta D-3, Nevsky pr. 122, MPl. Vosstaniya. Fasta Pasta does what it says on the tin - i t‘s a quick service restaurant where you can get basic pasta dishes, as well as paninis, soups and salads. The pasta, which comes in your choice of shape and with your choice of sauce (pesto, bolognese, etc.) and toppings, is even served in a takeout  box. They also serve breakfast until noon. The quality is on par with what you‘d expect from a fast food place, but it‘s clean, and, of course, quick, so if you‘re in a rush and want  something besides McDonalds or Teremok, you could do a lot worse. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. €. st petersburg inyourpo cket com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

33

34

RestauRants Soup Wine C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, ww w.supvino.ru.Five tables with bar  stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of   fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and h ow easy  it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it  is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.  €. PAGS

Italian Soholounge D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 647 80 80, www.insoholounge. com. The owners of Soholounge (who also run the two bar/ 

restaurants next door) were inspired by the cutting-edge  fashions and neighbourhood feel ofthe Soho areas areas of London and New York and have successfully started creating their  own mini-soho in this historic corner of St. Petersburg, with the Soholounge being the most fashionable of their hit parade of restaurants. The huge pictures of Johnn y Depp and co. on the walls, original American mini-burgers, cosmopolitan ‚new American‘ menu, which includes great steaks, salads and vegetarian options and the outstanding cocktail-menu are pure Manhattan. Q Open Mon - Thu 12:00 - 00:00, Fri - Sat  12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. €€. PALESW

Good and Cheap Kroshka Kartoshka D-3, Nevsky pr. 122 A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 901 305 21 50, 50, www.kar toshka.com. This very no-frills joint is an ode to the humble potato ( kartoshka  kartoshka ). ). You can get your  kartoshka in the

kroshka style (i.e., baked) with a choice of fillings such as  feta cheese, bacon and sour cream or au bergine stew. They also do paninis, salads and very cheap beer to wash it all down. Also at ul. Mala ya Sadovaya 3 (metro Gostiny  Dvor). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. TGS Stolle Cafe D-2, Konushenny per. 1/6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 18 62, w ww.stolle.ru. Stolle‘s big attraction is their pies, which are quite possibly the best in St. Petersburg. Both sweet pies filled with fruit  or savoury pies with mushrooms, fish and meat all get  washed down nicely with a coffee (or two or three). The relaxing atmosphere is soothing and addictive. Stolle claims to have recreated to the feel and flavour of an early 20th century St. Petersburg cafe, but really it is something more reminiscent of a modern Viennese Cafe, especially on Vasilevsky Vasilevsky Island. Also at ul. Dekabristov 19, ul. Dekabristov 33, ul. Vosstaniya 32 an d VO, 1-linya 50. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. €. PTLVNS Teremok D-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 23 41, www.teremok.ru. Head upstairs and worship at the thron e of Teremok - the pancake or  bliny  kings. Although it is strictly fast food, the bliny  are assembled as you order them and there is a wide variety  including the Ilya Muromets, a popular concoction of  boiled pork, mushrooms and cheese. They also do difukha ) and  ferent porridgedishes, an awesome fish soup ( ukha  have beer on tap. There are also 49 takeaway Teremok  Teremok  stands dotted around the city. Restaurant also at Nevsky  pr. 93, check the other 35 locations via their website. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €. PTNGS

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

36

Cafe Plaza by illy Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport, Startovaya ul. 6, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. A real Italian café located in the

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Hotel, just some 300m away from the international airport Pulkovo-2. The interior  blends the Italian coffee brand Illy‘s trademark colours red, black and white and the menu combines the most popular  elements of Italian, European and Russian cuisine, all served  fresh in generous p ortions. The desserts are h omemade and of course the real Italian coffee is a must. For alcoholic beverages in the evening (the bar opens at 20:00) there‘s the Russian Standard Signature Bar nearby where you can grab a cocktail (or two) or of course a good strong  Russian Standard vodka to steady yourself before a long   flight. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. €€. PTAULGSW

Caffe Italia E-3, Pr. Bakunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 64 74, ww w.caffe-italia.ru. The cheerful and charming décor, with checked tablecloths, sunny yellow walls and Uffizi catalogues on the bookshelves, already  puts this café above the standard casual Italian bistro. On offer is a diverse range of authentic pasta dishes, pizzas, starters and paninis. The mozzarella stretches about a kilometer and the imported olive oil is positively  succulent. If you can restrain yourself, th e gorgeously presented desserts are worth th e effort effort and th e wine list is a spot-on selection of almost exclusively dry Italian vintages that won‘t break the bank. The menu is only available in Italian and Russian, but the En glish-speaking staff will be genuinely pleased to help should you ask. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PNSW Capuletti D-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 74, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 22 82, www.capuletti.info. This sprawling Italian restaurant has a cute cafe/deli style area in the front overlooking the street and wide bal conies, tables, vines and soaring ceilings in the back. Decorated in a homely  country style the many areas suit both intimate meals and  family dinners. The pizzas are a great choice coming straight   from a stone wood-fired oven oven and the grilled dishes are also definitely worth opting for. They also now serve a breakfast  menu from 09:00 - 15:00 with all the great favourites like brioche, panini, mueslis, inventi ve omelettes and good coffees. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVESW Fasta Pasta D-3, Nevsky pr. 122, MPl. Vosstaniya. Fasta Pasta does what it says on the tin - i t‘s a quick service restaurant where you can get basic pasta dishes, as well as paninis, soups and salads. The pasta, which comes in your choice of shape and with your choice of sauce (pesto, bolognese, etc.) and toppings, is even served in a takeout  box. They also serve breakfast until noon. The quality is on par with what you‘d expect from a fast food place, but it‘s clean, and, of course, quick, so if you‘re in a rush and want  something besides McDonalds or Teremok, you could do a lot worse. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. €. st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

RestauRants

RestauRants La Famiglia D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 20/16, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 272 22 77, www.famcafe.ru. Despite the all grey interior - walls, couches, chairs and shelves - there isn‘t  anything grim or institutional about this casual yet elegant  cafe which is definitely conducive to lingering. Fresh salads, simple soups and pleasing meat dishes compliment the pasta selections that arrive perfectly al dente. Don‘t miss their signature pasta, which is an amazing combination of  subtle bleu cheese sauce, with melon, pomegranate seeds and a spring of fresh, flavourful basil. For those seeking light   fare, the pastas are conveniently available in half portions. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PAEBSW Little Italy D-2, Italianskaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 23 50, www.littleitalytrattoria.ru.

Food from Former Republics One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet  past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from  former Soviet Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of  Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this par t of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of  the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri  (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi  (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali  (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek  plov  (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat  soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).

Smoker’s paradise If you like smoking cigarettes, you’ll love Russia. Smoking  here is prevalent. Glancing at the other diners around you in a restaurant you generally will see more smokers than non-smokers. According to a recent World Health Organization report more than 44 million Russians smoke (almost 40% of the adult population), making  Russia amongst the heaviest smoking countries in the world. Cigarettes are incredibly cheap to buy, averaging  at around 50Rbl for a pack of 20, an d are available everywhere. Few places advertise themselves as exclusively  non-smoking and you can still light up in many public buildings. Big smoking bans are still a far off dream and you will still find that most bars and restaura nts are filled with people puffing away. If you aren’t a smoker and certainly don’t want to become a passive one, request  a place in a ne kuryashy mesto  (non-smoking area). Most restaurants now have them (and in some you will even find you are actuall y seated far away from smokers) and even some bars have them now too. Venues which are exclusively non-smoking are marked in our listings with a non-smoking symbol.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Small, simple, relaxed and friendly, Little Italy really feels like an authentic little trattoria that you would be delighted to have stumbled upon in a Tuscan side-street never mind in the centre of St. Petersburg. Located in what used to be an ice-cream parlour they‘ve kept the old venue‘s Venetian theme and added a pizza oven and small open kitchen. Th ey  do the basics very well and the long experience of the highly  qualified Italian chef is visible in everything which is served. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €, business lunch 290Rbl. PTASW

Mexican and Latin American Conchita Bonita C-2, Ul. Gorokhovaya 39, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 60 50. The Cuban owners and Latino staff do their best to entertain guests and create a lively atmosphere at this little South American restaurant  near Sennaya ploshchad. While the hot dishes can‘t really  be described as spicy and the guacamole is a bit flat, the atmosphere is good, especially when there‘s a live band on and there‘s a wide selection of cigars. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.  €€. PASW Tequila Boom B-2/3, Voznesensky pr. 57, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 310 15 34, www.tequilaboom.ru. A  raucous and fun place for a ni ght of Mexicana. Tequila Boom has tequila (obviously) and a menu filled with big Mexican classics like burritos and fajitas doused in sour cream and salsa. Portions are authentically large, although many people prefer to come to this cantina just to drink and eat snacks. The happy hour deals offer great value, especially if you‘re into tequila based cocktails - in fact the drinks menu runs to more pages than the food, which on a baking hot day, day, is no bad thing. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALVESW

Spanish

Macaroni D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 23, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 28 49, www.probka.org. At Macaroni, they are unafraid to serve the pasta al dente and they do have quite delicious food. Their tagliatelle with prawns and ham sauce is highly recommended, as is the salmon steak  on its bed of spinach. The interi or is a mix of casual chic with a glasshouse frontage onto the street. The pleasant staff  only add to the happy atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.  €€. PTAEBSW

Don Pepe D-3, Ul. Malaya Sadovaya 1/25, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 39 65, www.donpepe.ru. Scrumptious Spanish tapas just steps from Nevsky prospekt. This is authentic fare cooked with flair by chef Don Pepe. A mix of different dishes, all supremely affordable and delicious, supplemented by Sangria makes this place perfect for a quick bite (try their weekday buffet lunch deal if you happen to be in the area - it‘s a steal) or a more substantial meal in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAEBSW

Marcelli‘s D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 15, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 702 80 10, www.marcellis.ru. Simply  styled to reflect the stereotypes of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), it‘s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The simple menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions, and the dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil. Dishes can also be ordered in smaller portions for kids or perhaps for those on a diet. Another Marcelli‘s is located at Leninsky pr. 120 (metro Leninsky pr.), where they also sell pizza. In addition they have a nice deli counter. A new Marcelli`s has just been opened at pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PTABSW

Macarena Moskovsky pr. 206, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 906 39 00, www.macarenabar.ru. A lesson in how make a sophisticated yet comfortable and accessible Spanish/Italian restaurant. Through th e Chilli-tunnel entrance the interior continues to warm with soft woods and dim lights. Red meats and fish dominate this hearty  menu. We recommend the delicious seafood platter and the spicy Spanish wines to wash it down. There is als o a diverse business lunch everyday and live Latino theme d music every  Saturday night. Q Open 08:00 - 03:00, Mon 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEBSW

Sunday Brunch Taleon Restaurant C-2, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Sundays

at the Taleon Imperial Hotel have become something of  a tradition in th e city. Enjoy hot smoked sterlet woth pink  horseradish, cold smoked rainbow trout Asian style, or  lobster with pink sauce, fresh oysters and other exquisite dishes prepared by Taleon`s Chef Alexander Dregolsky. The menu includes assortment of soft drinks, sparkling  wine Prosecco, house red and white wines. Q Sun 12:00 - 16:00. 3,800Rbl. PTAULW L‘Europe Restaurant D-2, Grand Hotel Europe, ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, ww w.grandhoteleurope.com w.grandhoteleurope.com..The Grand offers

an amazing Jazz brun ch on Sundays. Tables Tables are laden with crawfish, salmon, shrimp, rows and rows of decadent  petit fours, roast beef, hot and cold soups, fruit arranged in towering topiaries. You will also find omelette stations, ice-cream stations, crepe stations and so on. Feast on the famous red and black caviar of Russia as well as a savour selection of Russian, Mediterranean and oriental specialties in one of St. Petersburg‘s most elegant Art  Nouveau settings. Settle back and let the strains of the  jazz band wash wash over over you. you. Q Sun 13:00 - 16:00. 4,900Rbl, children under 7 years for free, 7 - 12 years 1,600Rbl, 13 - 18 year 2,450Rbl. PTAULEW

Vegetarian Rada & K C-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 36, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 12 26. A great addition to St. Petersburg‘s small vegetarian dining scene. Rada & K mixes th e stereotypical happy hippy features such as green walls and dreadlocked staff with a canteen style set up. Popular at all hours the queues can be long (meaning your food gets cold), but it‘s still worth waiting i f you‘ve been starving yourself on bliny and cheese sandwich es all week. Vegan Vegan and vegetarian versions of Russian classics are on offer, but it‘s the excellent Indian dishes which are the biggest draw. The baked goods are also worth opting for and be sure to grab one of the homemade lassi drinks to accompany. There‘s also a good specialist   food shop next door. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTGW

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RestauRants

RestauRants La Famiglia D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 20/16, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 272 22 77, www.famcafe.ru. Despite the all grey interior - walls, couches, chairs and shelves - there isn‘t  anything grim or institutional about this casual yet elegant  cafe which is definitely conducive to lingering. Fresh salads, simple soups and pleasing meat dishes compliment the pasta selections that arrive perfectly al dente. Don‘t miss their signature pasta, which is an amazing combination of  subtle bleu cheese sauce, with melon, pomegranate seeds and a spring of fresh, flavourful basil. For those seeking light   fare, the pastas are conveniently available in half portions. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PAEBSW Little Italy D-2, Italianskaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 23 50, www.littleitalytrattoria.ru.

Food from Former Republics One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet  past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from  former Soviet Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of  Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this par t of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of  the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri  (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi  (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali  (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek  plov  (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat  soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).

Smoker’s paradise If you like smoking cigarettes, you’ll love Russia. Smoking  here is prevalent. Glancing at the other diners around you in a restaurant you generally will see more smokers than non-smokers. According to a recent World Health Organization report more than 44 million Russians smoke (almost 40% of the adult population), making  Russia amongst the heaviest smoking countries in the world. Cigarettes are incredibly cheap to buy, averaging  at around 50Rbl for a pack of 20, an d are available everywhere. Few places advertise themselves as exclusively  non-smoking and you can still light up in many public buildings. Big smoking bans are still a far off dream and you will still find that most bars and restaura nts are filled with people puffing away. If you aren’t a smoker and certainly don’t want to become a passive one, request  a place in a ne kuryashy mesto  (non-smoking area). Most restaurants now have them (and in some you will even find you are actuall y seated far away from smokers) and even some bars have them now too. Venues which are exclusively non-smoking are marked in our listings with a non-smoking symbol.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

38

Small, simple, relaxed and friendly, Little Italy really feels like an authentic little trattoria that you would be delighted to have stumbled upon in a Tuscan side-street never mind in the centre of St. Petersburg. Located in what used to be an ice-cream parlour they‘ve kept the old venue‘s Venetian theme and added a pizza oven and small open kitchen. Th ey  do the basics very well and the long experience of the highly  qualified Italian chef is visible in everything which is served. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €, business lunch 290Rbl. PTASW

Mexican and Latin American Conchita Bonita C-2, Ul. Gorokhovaya 39, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 60 50. The Cuban owners and Latino staff do their best to entertain guests and create a lively atmosphere at this little South American restaurant  near Sennaya ploshchad. While the hot dishes can‘t really  be described as spicy and the guacamole is a bit flat, the atmosphere is good, especially when there‘s a live band on and there‘s a wide selection of cigars. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.  €€. PASW Tequila Boom B-2/3, Voznesensky pr. 57, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 310 15 34, www.tequilaboom.ru. A  raucous and fun place for a ni ght of Mexicana. Tequila Boom has tequila (obviously) and a menu filled with big Mexican classics like burritos and fajitas doused in sour cream and salsa. Portions are authentically large, although many people prefer to come to this cantina just to drink and eat snacks. The happy hour deals offer great value, especially if you‘re into tequila based cocktails - in fact the drinks menu runs to more pages than the food, which on a baking hot day, day, is no bad thing. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALVESW

Spanish

Macaroni D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 23, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 28 49, www.probka.org. At Macaroni, they are unafraid to serve the pasta al dente and they do have quite delicious food. Their tagliatelle with prawns and ham sauce is highly recommended, as is the salmon steak  on its bed of spinach. The interi or is a mix of casual chic with a glasshouse frontage onto the street. The pleasant staff  only add to the happy atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.  €€. PTAEBSW

Don Pepe D-3, Ul. Malaya Sadovaya 1/25, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 39 65, www.donpepe.ru. Scrumptious Spanish tapas just steps from Nevsky prospekt. This is authentic fare cooked with flair by chef Don Pepe. A mix of different dishes, all supremely affordable and delicious, supplemented by Sangria makes this place perfect for a quick bite (try their weekday buffet lunch deal if you happen to be in the area - it‘s a steal) or a more substantial meal in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAEBSW

Marcelli‘s D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 15, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 702 80 10, www.marcellis.ru. Simply  styled to reflect the stereotypes of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), it‘s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The simple menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions, and the dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil. Dishes can also be ordered in smaller portions for kids or perhaps for those on a diet. Another Marcelli‘s is located at Leninsky pr. 120 (metro Leninsky pr.), where they also sell pizza. In addition they have a nice deli counter. A new Marcelli`s has just been opened at pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PTABSW

Macarena Moskovsky pr. 206, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 906 39 00, www.macarenabar.ru. A lesson in how make a sophisticated yet comfortable and accessible Spanish/Italian restaurant. Through th e Chilli-tunnel entrance the interior continues to warm with soft woods and dim lights. Red meats and fish dominate this hearty  menu. We recommend the delicious seafood platter and the spicy Spanish wines to wash it down. There is als o a diverse business lunch everyday and live Latino theme d music every  Saturday night. Q Open 08:00 - 03:00, Mon 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEBSW

Artsy / underground Atelier Bar C-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. storey, (+7) 812 921 78 05, www.atelierbar.ru. This three storey, rough-at-the-edges bar/club, just round the corner from the hectic Dumskaya ‚bar street‘, has a bit of squat feel to it but  is moving with the times and has updated its interiors to make things a little more comfortable.The crumbling concrete walls have been given a lick of pain and the toilets have become less sess-pit st yle than previously. Atelier attracts a predominately grungy student set and can feel a bit too ‚young‘ for  some. The music is as unpredictable as the face control but  given the proximity of so many other bars you can always hop out and try another venue and pop in later to see how things are swinging. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. Admission  free. Fri, Sat 100Rbl. EW Bar Kokoshka C/D-3, Ul. Razyezzhaya 26/28, MLigovsky pr., www.kokoshkabar.ru. Brightly painted (or  might we say graffitied) in psychedelic colours by the owners themselves, there‘s something about the homemade décor  that gives the feeling of a work constantly in progress. In addition to the usual beer and vodka, Kokoshka offers patrons its own homemade spirits, cooked up using berries, honey  and caramel. Early on it‘s a decent place to hang out with a pre-club drink, while later DJs spin the best in funk, hip-hop and grungy-indie music (depending on the night) to fill the small area in front of the bar with dancing (or shoe-gazin g) hipsters and the city‘s alternative set. Q Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  18:00 - 06:00. EW Borodabar C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 911 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. This pocketsized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburg‘s burgeoning  underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn‘t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior refl ects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artis ts and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. Staff are very friendly and the DJ sets are often very good. Q Open 18:00 until last guest. PW

Sunday Brunch Taleon Restaurant C-2, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Sundays

at the Taleon Imperial Hotel have become something of  a tradition in th e city. Enjoy hot smoked sterlet woth pink  horseradish, cold smoked rainbow trout Asian style, or  lobster with pink sauce, fresh oysters and other exquisite dishes prepared by Taleon`s Chef Alexander Dregolsky. The menu includes assortment of soft drinks, sparkling  wine Prosecco, house red and white wines. Q Sun 12:00 - 16:00. 3,800Rbl. PTAULW L‘Europe Restaurant D-2, Grand Hotel Europe, ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, ww w.grandhoteleurope.com w.grandhoteleurope.com..The Grand offers

an amazing Jazz brun ch on Sundays. Tables Tables are laden with crawfish, salmon, shrimp, rows and rows of decadent  petit fours, roast beef, hot and cold soups, fruit arranged in towering topiaries. You will also find omelette stations, ice-cream stations, crepe stations and so on. Feast on the famous red and black caviar of Russia as well as a savour selection of Russian, Mediterranean and oriental specialties in one of St. Petersburg‘s most elegant Art  Nouveau settings. Settle back and let the strains of the  jazz band wash wash over over you. you. Q Sun 13:00 - 16:00. 4,900Rbl, children under 7 years for free, 7 - 12 years 1,600Rbl, 13 - 18 year 2,450Rbl. PTAULEW

Vegetarian Rada & K C-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 36, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 12 26. A great addition to St. Petersburg‘s small vegetarian dining scene. Rada & K mixes th e stereotypical happy hippy features such as green walls and dreadlocked staff with a canteen style set up. Popular at all hours the queues can be long (meaning your food gets cold), but it‘s still worth waiting i f you‘ve been starving yourself on bliny and cheese sandwich es all week. Vegan Vegan and vegetarian versions of Russian classics are on offer, but it‘s the excellent Indian dishes which are the biggest draw. The baked goods are also worth opting for and be sure to grab one of the homemade lassi drinks to accompany. There‘s also a good specialist   food shop next door. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTGW

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Nightlife St. Petersburg‘s nightlife scene is going from strength to strength and is now generally considered to be the most varied and friendly in the country. Classic old pubs, new gastro-bars and quirky artisti c bars can be found on every other corner.

October - November 2012

Nightlife Cafe-Bar Produkty D-2/3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) (812) 312 57 54. Produkty‘s owner 

apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary  and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really  shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while  for drinks its cocktails which take forever to con struct or  bottles of b eer. eer. Just to make you feel extra special, you have to ring the door bell to get in. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thur 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. AEW Dacha C-2, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MNevsky pr. This place gets really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to

be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don‘t dress too fancy if you‘re coming here for the night, you‘re likely to get beer spilt on you an d the place is smokier  than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day  they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lemonade and free wifi. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PEW Fidel D-3, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 906 809-61-03, 809-61-03, www.barfidel.ru. Fidel - can get packed so if you

want a seat you need to work faster than a babushka on the metro. Either that or get there early. But who comes to a bar to sit down? The music is too loud to have conversations anyway. They do have a dancefloor where you can come away with a head injury if you are not careful. If you‘re in any way squeamish avoid the toilets - let‘s just say they‘re not the cleanest we‘ve ever seen... QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Face control. PE Kitaisky Lyotchik Dzao Da D-2, Ul. Pestelya 7A, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 74 87, www.jao-da.org.

Kitaisky Lotchik or Chinese Pilot, is a newly opened brother  establishment of the long-loved Moscow Club of the same name. The emphasis here is towards live music and cheap but   filling food. Unfortunately the place is not massively well well promoted so there is still no regular crowd and the place feels very  empty. empty. On the plus side that of course means you‘ll al ways be able to get a seat and th e concerts feel more, ahem, intimate. Concerts start at 20:00. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PEBW Mishka Bar D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 751 54 93, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They‘re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who‘s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl? QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sa t 18:00 - 06:00. PSW Pirogi D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 275 35 58, www.piterogi.ru. This bustling cafebar is one part bookshop, one part student hangout leaving  the rest of the ample space for those people in the city who liked a relaxed atmosphere and fairly priced beer. The cute chequered tablecloths give Pirogi (meaning pies) its laid back  cafe vibe, while the indie music an d late open hours keep it in the bar bracket too. Nothing ro wdy ever kicks off off here, this is more the place for long chats over budget beer and pies an d games of Jenga stretching off into the early hours. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

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st petersburg inyourpo cket com

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October - November 2012

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Nightlife St. Petersburg‘s nightlife scene is going from strength to strength and is now generally considered to be the most varied and friendly in the country. Classic old pubs, new gastro-bars and quirky artisti c bars can be found on every other corner.

Artsy / underground Atelier Bar C-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. storey, (+7) 812 921 78 05, www.atelierbar.ru. This three storey, rough-at-the-edges bar/club, just round the corner from the hectic Dumskaya ‚bar street‘, has a bit of squat feel to it but  is moving with the times and has updated its interiors to make things a little more comfortable.The crumbling concrete walls have been given a lick of pain and the toilets have become less sess-pit st yle than previously. Atelier attracts a predominately grungy student set and can feel a bit too ‚young‘ for  some. The music is as unpredictable as the face control but  given the proximity of so many other bars you can always hop out and try another venue and pop in later to see how things are swinging. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. Admission  free. Fri, Sat 100Rbl. EW Bar Kokoshka C/D-3, Ul. Razyezzhaya 26/28, MLigovsky pr., www.kokoshkabar.ru. Brightly painted (or  might we say graffitied) in psychedelic colours by the owners themselves, there‘s something about the homemade décor  that gives the feeling of a work constantly in progress. In addition to the usual beer and vodka, Kokoshka offers patrons its own homemade spirits, cooked up using berries, honey  and caramel. Early on it‘s a decent place to hang out with a pre-club drink, while later DJs spin the best in funk, hip-hop and grungy-indie music (depending on the night) to fill the small area in front of the bar with dancing (or shoe-gazin g) hipsters and the city‘s alternative set. Q Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  18:00 - 06:00. EW Borodabar C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 911 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. This pocketsized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburg‘s burgeoning  underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn‘t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior refl ects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artis ts and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. Staff are very friendly and the DJ sets are often very good. Q Open 18:00 until last guest. PW

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Cafe-Bar Produkty D-2/3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) (812) 312 57 54. Produkty‘s owner 

apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary  and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really  shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while  for drinks its cocktails which take forever to con struct or  bottles of b eer. eer. Just to make you feel extra special, you have to ring the door bell to get in. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thur 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. AEW Dacha C-2, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MNevsky pr. This place gets really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to

be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don‘t dress too fancy if you‘re coming here for the night, you‘re likely to get beer spilt on you an d the place is smokier  than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day  they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lemonade and free wifi. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PEW Fidel D-3, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 906 809-61-03, 809-61-03, www.barfidel.ru. Fidel - can get packed so if you

want a seat you need to work faster than a babushka on the metro. Either that or get there early. But who comes to a bar to sit down? The music is too loud to have conversations anyway. They do have a dancefloor where you can come away with a head injury if you are not careful. If you‘re in any way squeamish avoid the toilets - let‘s just say they‘re not the cleanest we‘ve ever seen... QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Face control. PE Kitaisky Lyotchik Dzao Da D-2, Ul. Pestelya 7A, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 74 87, www.jao-da.org.

Kitaisky Lotchik or Chinese Pilot, is a newly opened brother  establishment of the long-loved Moscow Club of the same name. The emphasis here is towards live music and cheap but   filling food. Unfortunately the place is not massively well well promoted so there is still no regular crowd and the place feels very  empty. empty. On the plus side that of course means you‘ll al ways be able to get a seat and th e concerts feel more, ahem, intimate. Concerts start at 20:00. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PEBW Mishka Bar D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 751 54 93, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They‘re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who‘s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl? QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sa t 18:00 - 06:00. PSW Pirogi D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 275 35 58, www.piterogi.ru. This bustling cafebar is one part bookshop, one part student hangout leaving  the rest of the ample space for those people in the city who liked a relaxed atmosphere and fairly priced beer. The cute chequered tablecloths give Pirogi (meaning pies) its laid back  cafe vibe, while the indie music an d late open hours keep it in the bar bracket too. Nothing ro wdy ever kicks off off here, this is more the place for long chats over budget beer and pies an d games of Jenga stretching off into the early hours. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

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October - November 2012

Nightlife Warszawa bar С-2, Kazanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 53 71, www.40gradusov.ru. Despite its Polish name this small cozy bar is if anything more related to Prague and even this conclusion is solely based on the nationality of the offered beers. The topographic name doesn‘t refer to anything Warsawian in particular but  rather alludes to the relaxed ambiance of East European brasseries. During the day the place functions as a café with a small selection of snacks and by nights turns into a laid-back bar. The interior is minimalistic but so are the prices: treat yourself to some throat-burning Ukrainian pepper vodka, bittersweet Czech liquor or Polish traditional Zubrowka for a handful of Roubles. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PW

Bars and pubs Abeerdeen D-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel. (+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they‘ve managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver   finishings and rough wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of deli cious pub grub and you may find you‘ve spent  everything in your wallet and are not the least bit sad about i t. In case your wondering, haggis is indeed available - but bring  your adventurous friends, as th e minimal order is a whopping  three kilos. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAESW BARSLONA D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 26, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 01 12, wwww.barslona.ru. This Spanish bar and restaurant has that sunny and friendly Spanish feel, but surprisingly enough is completely run by Russians - my  what a difference a smile can make! As you would expect   from a football mad country, match days have a really great  atmosphere here. Their sangria comes in huge jugs and has plenty of ice and is und erstandably popular on hot days. The tapas is tiny but tasty and the Spanish mains are filling and  flavoursome. Get down early to grab a stool on their popular  street terrace. The Barslona brand now has 2 more locations at ul. Chernyshevskogo 9 (metro Chernyshevskaya) and ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1 in the former premises of The Other Side Bar (metro Nevsky pr.). QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PABSW

To read about even more bars, pubs and clubs in St. Peterburg and find out about all the latest  gigs check out our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife James Cook D-2, Shvedsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 951 22 02, www.jcpub.ru. This popular tavern in a vintage basement features one of the l ongest bars in town. The cellar is divided into two halves, one for the consumption of coffee and cakes, the other reserved for the harder stuff. Not  only are the draft beers diverse and poured expertly, there is a wide range of tempting snacks to accompany your beverage of  choice, including some great steaks served up on a wooden butcher‘s block. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. PAEW

Bedlam Bar D-3, Ligovsky pr. 81, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 63 44, bedlambar.blogspot.com. A Britishstyled rock pub. At Bedlam you can munch on great pub st yle  food such as fish and chips, sausages or roast chicken, whilst listening to the best hits of yester year and great new underground names. Bedlam for once has thankfully shunned the shamrocks and union jacks and has opted instead for  black paint and faded posters of Bowie, Jagger, Morrison and co. Odd stuffed cats, antique rock‘n‘roll magazines and the occasional gas mask are displayed in cages which surround the bar, adding yet more rock credentials to Bedlam‘s look. Q Open Thu - Sat 20:00 - 02:00. PW Chumadan C-2, VO, 6-ya liniya 21, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 59 29, www.chumadan-cafe. spb.ru. There‘s a lot of British pubs in this city and yet it‘s this

distinctly Russian basement bar that gets the atmosphere right without even trying. A low ceiling, dingy stone walls that  have seen some smokers in their days and closely packed tables all lend to that feeling of finding your local. Even the tartan-skirted waitresses seem natural. However, looking  around at the patrons, often seated around carafes of  vodka, boisterously toasting and chomping on fried snacks in between their 50 grams dispel any notions that you‘re anywhere other than the Motherland. Popular with students,  familiesand business professionals professionals alike, alike, you you never never know who you‘ll end up chatting with or how long you‘ll end up staying. No bad thing, in our opinion. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. AW Dickens C-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 78 88. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including  more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our   favourites) and come in huge portions. Don‘t forget to try the breakfast here - it‘s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you‘ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 08:00 - 01:00. PALSW

Mollie‘s Irish Pub D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly.su. St. Petersburg‘s first Irish pub, located jus t off Nevsky, Nevsky, offers just  what you would expect from a bar like this. Mollie‘s serves up a wide range of beers, good food and music (although it  might be a bit loud for an intimate conversation). Russians hang out here, mixed with expats and the occasional tourist. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sut 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 01:00. PABSW Mollie‘s Mews D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, ww w.molly.su.

A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar clutter  which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on Rubinsteina ulitsa. What they are missing in history they  make up for in space however. however. Mollie‘s Mews is mu ch bigger  than its legendar y parent, meaning there‘s space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAEBSW Molly Island B-1, Morskaya nab. 15, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 13 03, www.molly.su. Located on Vasilyevsky Island, this little Irish Pub is the place to go after a day in the Lenexpo Exhibition Centre or if you are staying in the nearby Hotel Pribaltiskaya. The cosy interior, interior, friendly  staff and a vibrant mix of locals and foreigners as well as a wide selection of beer, whiskey and food, make it the perfect  place to meet up with friends or watch a game of football, if  you don´t feel like traveling all the way to t he centre. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PABSW Molly Shelter D-2, Italyanskaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 54, www.molly.su. Shelter is the right  word for this snug little basement Irish Pub - its low vaulted brick ceilings and inviting booths tucked away in various little nooks and crannies act as a cocoon to the outside world and call out at you to settle in, relax and take shelter. The basement‘s careful restoration gives the pub a very very authen tic look  and the various bits of antique pub clutter look well at home amongst chess playing punters and sports fans. They have good stouts and ales on draught as well as the atypical Guinness and the pub food menu is lon g and appetising. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAEBSW Music Bar 11 C-2, Malaya Morskaya 11, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 11 11, www.musicbar. ru. Showing off on stage and performing karaoke in front of 

 friends and strangers is hugely popular in Russia a nd here at Music Bar 11 they claim to have the city’s best karaoke equipment with a high-tech professional sound system and snazzy light effects. If you prefer to see professionals per forming then you are in luck as everyday at 23:00 there’s a musical show on the bar’s stage often featuring well-known Russian bands, which is followed up by DJs doing their thing. The bar card is filled with classic cocktails as well as modern  favourites and there’s also a kitchen serving fancy European and Japanese cuisine. Q Open 20:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. PALEW St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

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Oliver D-3, Ul. Belinskogo 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 33 61. Oliver is an English-style pub near  the Fontanka that is an attempt at an authentic neighborhood pub, with darts, flocked wallpaper, wallpaper, and a portrait of  Queen Victoria watching over the place. It seems to be popular enough with the locals. It is part of a mini-chain mini-chain of  similar pubs in the center of the city, with the others being  Dickens and Pickwick Pub. The food consists of typical British and American-style fare, such as BBQ chicken wings, club sandwiches, and fish ‘n‘ chips, as well as a few Russian dishes. Service is decent and the menu is bilingual, so it‘s not a bad choice if you‘re seeking a pint and some familiar  dishes. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PALESW Pickwick Pub E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 61 41. Pickwick is a real English pub through and through. The staff exchange friendly banter  with the punters, there‘s premiership football on the tv, real ales on tap and pickled eggs on the bar. The cosy interior is a beautiful recreation of a London victorian pub complete with hand-carved wood fittings, a real fireplace and antique stained glass fittings. Order a pint of one of twenty on tap and settle in for some jolly good fun with the chaps. Tallyho old chum! Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 12:00 - 01:00 PASW

Shamrock B-2, Ul. Dekabristov 27 (Teatralnaya pl.), MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 46 25, www.sham-

rock.spb.ru. This cosy Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky 

Theatre has a great atmosphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes dancers of the Mariinsky  come here incognito for a drink after their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session. The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3 big screens, including English Premiership football, American NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. We visited this pub for the first time in 1995 and still do - doesn‘t that say enough? QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.

PAESW

Telegraph D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is why it can be enjoyably crowded here. here. Another plus is the big screen for live football and other sports matches. In some ways it is a bit of a lonely old man‘s pub where you can find dozens of single men who‘ve got no one to cook for them having a plate of bangers and mash on their  lonesome. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW October - November 2012

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Nightlife Warszawa bar С-2, Kazanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 53 71, www.40gradusov.ru. Despite its Polish name this small cozy bar is if anything more related to Prague and even this conclusion is solely based on the nationality of the offered beers. The topographic name doesn‘t refer to anything Warsawian in particular but  rather alludes to the relaxed ambiance of East European brasseries. During the day the place functions as a café with a small selection of snacks and by nights turns into a laid-back bar. The interior is minimalistic but so are the prices: treat yourself to some throat-burning Ukrainian pepper vodka, bittersweet Czech liquor or Polish traditional Zubrowka for a handful of Roubles. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PW

Bars and pubs Abeerdeen D-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel. (+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they‘ve managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver   finishings and rough wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of deli cious pub grub and you may find you‘ve spent  everything in your wallet and are not the least bit sad about i t. In case your wondering, haggis is indeed available - but bring  your adventurous friends, as th e minimal order is a whopping  three kilos. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAESW BARSLONA D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 26, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 01 12, wwww.barslona.ru. This Spanish bar and restaurant has that sunny and friendly Spanish feel, but surprisingly enough is completely run by Russians - my  what a difference a smile can make! As you would expect   from a football mad country, match days have a really great  atmosphere here. Their sangria comes in huge jugs and has plenty of ice and is und erstandably popular on hot days. The tapas is tiny but tasty and the Spanish mains are filling and  flavoursome. Get down early to grab a stool on their popular  street terrace. The Barslona brand now has 2 more locations at ul. Chernyshevskogo 9 (metro Chernyshevskaya) and ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1 in the former premises of The Other Side Bar (metro Nevsky pr.). QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PABSW

To read about even more bars, pubs and clubs in St. Peterburg and find out about all the latest  gigs check out our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife James Cook D-2, Shvedsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 951 22 02, www.jcpub.ru. This popular tavern in a vintage basement features one of the l ongest bars in town. The cellar is divided into two halves, one for the consumption of coffee and cakes, the other reserved for the harder stuff. Not  only are the draft beers diverse and poured expertly, there is a wide range of tempting snacks to accompany your beverage of  choice, including some great steaks served up on a wooden butcher‘s block. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. PAEW

Bedlam Bar D-3, Ligovsky pr. 81, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 63 44, bedlambar.blogspot.com. A Britishstyled rock pub. At Bedlam you can munch on great pub st yle  food such as fish and chips, sausages or roast chicken, whilst listening to the best hits of yester year and great new underground names. Bedlam for once has thankfully shunned the shamrocks and union jacks and has opted instead for  black paint and faded posters of Bowie, Jagger, Morrison and co. Odd stuffed cats, antique rock‘n‘roll magazines and the occasional gas mask are displayed in cages which surround the bar, adding yet more rock credentials to Bedlam‘s look. Q Open Thu - Sat 20:00 - 02:00. PW Chumadan C-2, VO, 6-ya liniya 21, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 59 29, www.chumadan-cafe. spb.ru. There‘s a lot of British pubs in this city and yet it‘s this

distinctly Russian basement bar that gets the atmosphere right without even trying. A low ceiling, dingy stone walls that  have seen some smokers in their days and closely packed tables all lend to that feeling of finding your local. Even the tartan-skirted waitresses seem natural. However, looking  around at the patrons, often seated around carafes of  vodka, boisterously toasting and chomping on fried snacks in between their 50 grams dispel any notions that you‘re anywhere other than the Motherland. Popular with students,  familiesand business professionals professionals alike, alike, you you never never know who you‘ll end up chatting with or how long you‘ll end up staying. No bad thing, in our opinion. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. AW Dickens C-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 78 88. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including  more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our   favourites) and come in huge portions. Don‘t forget to try the breakfast here - it‘s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you‘ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 08:00 - 01:00. PALSW

Mollie‘s Irish Pub D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly.su. St. Petersburg‘s first Irish pub, located jus t off Nevsky, Nevsky, offers just  what you would expect from a bar like this. Mollie‘s serves up a wide range of beers, good food and music (although it  might be a bit loud for an intimate conversation). Russians hang out here, mixed with expats and the occasional tourist. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sut 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 01:00. PABSW Mollie‘s Mews D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, ww w.molly.su.

A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar clutter  which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on Rubinsteina ulitsa. What they are missing in history they  make up for in space however. however. Mollie‘s Mews is mu ch bigger  than its legendar y parent, meaning there‘s space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAEBSW Molly Island B-1, Morskaya nab. 15, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 13 03, www.molly.su. Located on Vasilyevsky Island, this little Irish Pub is the place to go after a day in the Lenexpo Exhibition Centre or if you are staying in the nearby Hotel Pribaltiskaya. The cosy interior, interior, friendly  staff and a vibrant mix of locals and foreigners as well as a wide selection of beer, whiskey and food, make it the perfect  place to meet up with friends or watch a game of football, if  you don´t feel like traveling all the way to t he centre. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PABSW Molly Shelter D-2, Italyanskaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 54, www.molly.su. Shelter is the right  word for this snug little basement Irish Pub - its low vaulted brick ceilings and inviting booths tucked away in various little nooks and crannies act as a cocoon to the outside world and call out at you to settle in, relax and take shelter. The basement‘s careful restoration gives the pub a very very authen tic look  and the various bits of antique pub clutter look well at home amongst chess playing punters and sports fans. They have good stouts and ales on draught as well as the atypical Guinness and the pub food menu is lon g and appetising. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAEBSW Music Bar 11 C-2, Malaya Morskaya 11, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 11 11, www.musicbar. ru. Showing off on stage and performing karaoke in front of 

 friends and strangers is hugely popular in Russia a nd here at Music Bar 11 they claim to have the city’s best karaoke equipment with a high-tech professional sound system and snazzy light effects. If you prefer to see professionals per forming then you are in luck as everyday at 23:00 there’s a musical show on the bar’s stage often featuring well-known Russian bands, which is followed up by DJs doing their thing. The bar card is filled with classic cocktails as well as modern  favourites and there’s also a kitchen serving fancy European and Japanese cuisine. Q Open 20:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. PALEW St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

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Nightlife XXXX Bar E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 34, MPl. Voss-

skaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 61 23, www.terminalbar. spb.ru. The friendly owners here, who spent years in

taniya, tel. (+7) 812 920 40 65/(+7) 812 244 99 99, xxxxbar.ru. XXXX bar is legendary in the St. Petersburg bar 

New York, insist that this long, thin and friendly bar is a homage to New York and their favourite bar there Terminal. We (Europeans) felt it was more like one of those friendly  Spanish places where jolly conversations fall across beers and coffees along the long bar and out into the street. Either way, what they are offering here is all very good. A  simple but clean bar, chatty s taff and a good mix of happy  regulars, plus quality music served at background levels. Our only complaint is why are the beers so small? Q Open 16:00 until last guest. PW The Office Pub C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Kazan Cathedral at tracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. It‘s one of those offices where you don‘t mind staying late, but doing  overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW William Bass Pub D-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass.ru. Anotherlocal homage to Russia‘s love affair with British culture. The interior  nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe and there‘s also even a bright red room label ed ‘ye olde curiosity  shoppe‘ in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously   feature  feature heavily on the menu, alongside alongside numerous numerousother real ales. The locati on makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

Pickwick Pub E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 61 41. Pickwick is a real English pub through and through. The staff exchange friendly banter  with the punters, there‘s premiership football on the tv, real ales on tap and pickled eggs on the bar. The cosy interior is a beautiful recreation of a London victorian pub complete with hand-carved wood fittings, a real fireplace and antique stained glass fittings. Order a pint of one of twenty on tap and settle in for some jolly good fun with the chaps. Tallyho old chum! Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 12:00 - 01:00 PASW

Shamrock B-2, Ul. Dekabristov 27 (Teatralnaya pl.), MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 46 25, www.sham-

rock.spb.ru. This cosy Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky 

Theatre has a great atmosphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes dancers of the Mariinsky  come here incognito for a drink after their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session. The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3 big screens, including English Premiership football, American NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. We visited this pub for the first time in 1995 and still do - doesn‘t that say enough? QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.

PAESW

Telegraph D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is why it can be enjoyably crowded here. here. Another plus is the big screen for live football and other sports matches. In some ways it is a bit of a lonely old man‘s pub where you can find dozens of single men who‘ve got no one to cook for them having a plate of bangers and mash on their  lonesome. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW October - November 2012

scene, and there always seems to be new branch es popping  up all over the place. The interior lo oks like a bit of a mess full of flags, banners and random nick nacks scattered around the place and tables that are alarmingly close to each other. Although calm during the week, come the weekend it goes bezerk with impromptu dancing on the bar, strip competitions and the alcohol flowing like a river. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 05:00. Sat, Sun 15:00 - 05:00. Face control, dress code. PAEBSW

Clubs Dom Byta С/D-3, Ul. Razyezzhaya 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99. The owners had their  tongues firmly in cheek when this bar was named after the type of storefronts that offer everything from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous weekends. In keeping with the attention to detail, the food, if a bit pricey, is also meticulously prepared and presented. For all the lounge lizards out there - it‘s officially martini time. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. Fri, Sat face control. PAESW

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Griboedov C-3, Ul. Voronezhskaya 2a, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 43 55, www.griboedovclub.ru. This literally ‘underground‘ club is located in a bomb shelter and is definitely wort h a look. The vodka is cheap, the crowd cool and the atmosphere intimate but laid-back. Griboedov has a good habit of booking alternative bands and a diverse range of DJs like during Happy on Mondays new electronic music nights. The cafe Griboedov Hill is upstairs and has regular  parties on Saturdays (Sketch Show - hip-hop, break beat  roots and reggae) and Mondays (jazz concerts and jazz -hop/  deep funk DJS). Come hungry and early, as the tables fill up quickly at the weekend and the food is excellent, especially   for the price. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 10:00. PAILEBXSW Hallelujah Bar D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 7/8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 59 26. Very similar to a lot of  other bars around town, this little place goes wild at the weekends with youngsters getting hot and sweaty to the sounds of the 1980s, 1990s, current Russian rock  bands and occasionally the Ghostbusters theme tune to amuse the students. It can get hot as hell in here, bu t on the upside you may dance wherever you want, be it the street or the table. Th ere‘s also a fussball table if you are not feeling quite yet in the mo od to join the par ty. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PLESW Lenconcert XXXX D-2, Kamenoostrovsky pr. 11a, M Gorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 644 44 46, www.

lenconcertxxxx.ru. There‘s no disguising it, the people who go to Lenconcert are really ridiculously good-looking  good-looking  and the scrutiny on the door is brutal and efficient in sifting  out the most attractive guests from the wannabes. Once inside the action usually starts at the wide bar which has steps leading up to it to allow for bar top dancing and when there‘s no concerts the DJs crank things up to full on sexy  pop (think Britney, Rihanna, Beyonce and co.) so the girls can have fun. Concerts range from house music to Russian stand-up comedy and retro nostalgic pop, so it is definitely  worth checking the schedule beforehand. When not in party  mode, the venue also serves as a classy Russian-European restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat  15:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PAEW

Mod club D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 7 (in the yard), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 712 07 34, www.modclub.

info. They‘ve made great use of the space here, with an

intimate DJ bar for the stool-warming set adjacent to a large bi-level stage area where you can see some up-and-coming  rock groups. For those who‘ve been in town awhile, you never  know who you‘ll bump into here on the packed weekends. Only  the queue for coat check on your way in could be cause for  complaint. Otherwise, it‘s a great place to drink, dance, be merry and find a friend. Just be aware as the hour progresses, often quicker than you think, the crowd tends to get more than a little drunk and often more than a little rowdy, too. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. Face control. PEB

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Oliver D-3, Ul. Belinskogo 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 33 61. Oliver is an English-style pub near  the Fontanka that is an attempt at an authentic neighborhood pub, with darts, flocked wallpaper, wallpaper, and a portrait of  Queen Victoria watching over the place. It seems to be popular enough with the locals. It is part of a mini-chain mini-chain of  similar pubs in the center of the city, with the others being  Dickens and Pickwick Pub. The food consists of typical British and American-style fare, such as BBQ chicken wings, club sandwiches, and fish ‘n‘ chips, as well as a few Russian dishes. Service is decent and the menu is bilingual, so it‘s not a bad choice if you‘re seeking a pint and some familiar  dishes. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PALESW

Nightlife

Terminal Bar D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 13a, MVladimir-

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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Cocktail Bars Bar (812) D-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru.

Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or  a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW Daiquiri Bar D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar. ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits

cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremly friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly goo d. With more than 250 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Tsvetochki D-3, Rubinsteina ul. 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a hand ful of  small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or  complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of countr y,  jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking  staff an added feature. Tsvetochki Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PABW Zing Bar C-3, Lomonosova ul. 14, MDostoevskaya. Cocktails, Russia‘s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Café del Mar soundtrack, it‘s possible!) are the draw cards of  this stylish little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much so that you can‘t actually  see anyone or anything as can be experienced elsewhere. In another seemingly innovative move it‘s all non-smoking  and there‘s little in the way of face control. The menu  focuses on the classics and is historically separated into ‘old‘ (19th Century), recent and modern sections which also includes their own Russian influenced creations. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAGW

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Nightlife

Nightlife

Terminal Bar D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 13a, MVladimir-

XXXX Bar E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 34, MPl. Voss-

skaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 61 23, www.terminalbar. spb.ru. The friendly owners here, who spent years in

taniya, tel. (+7) 812 920 40 65/(+7) 812 244 99 99, xxxxbar.ru. XXXX bar is legendary in the St. Petersburg bar 

New York, insist that this long, thin and friendly bar is a homage to New York and their favourite bar there Terminal. We (Europeans) felt it was more like one of those friendly  Spanish places where jolly conversations fall across beers and coffees along the long bar and out into the street. Either way, what they are offering here is all very good. A  simple but clean bar, chatty s taff and a good mix of happy  regulars, plus quality music served at background levels. Our only complaint is why are the beers so small? Q Open 16:00 until last guest. PW The Office Pub C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Kazan Cathedral at tracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. It‘s one of those offices where you don‘t mind staying late, but doing  overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW William Bass Pub D-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass.ru. Anotherlocal homage to Russia‘s love affair with British culture. The interior  nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe and there‘s also even a bright red room label ed ‘ye olde curiosity  shoppe‘ in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously   feature  feature heavily on the menu, alongside alongside numerous numerousother real ales. The locati on makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

scene, and there always seems to be new branch es popping  up all over the place. The interior lo oks like a bit of a mess full of flags, banners and random nick nacks scattered around the place and tables that are alarmingly close to each other. Although calm during the week, come the weekend it goes bezerk with impromptu dancing on the bar, strip competitions and the alcohol flowing like a river. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 05:00. Sat, Sun 15:00 - 05:00. Face control, dress code. PAEBSW

Clubs Dom Byta С/D-3, Ul. Razyezzhaya 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99. The owners had their  tongues firmly in cheek when this bar was named after the type of storefronts that offer everything from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous weekends. In keeping with the attention to detail, the food, if a bit pricey, is also meticulously prepared and presented. For all the lounge lizards out there - it‘s officially martini time. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. Fri, Sat face control. PAESW

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Griboedov C-3, Ul. Voronezhskaya 2a, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 43 55, www.griboedovclub.ru. This literally ‘underground‘ club is located in a bomb shelter and is definitely wort h a look. The vodka is cheap, the crowd cool and the atmosphere intimate but laid-back. Griboedov has a good habit of booking alternative bands and a diverse range of DJs like during Happy on Mondays new electronic music nights. The cafe Griboedov Hill is upstairs and has regular  parties on Saturdays (Sketch Show - hip-hop, break beat  roots and reggae) and Mondays (jazz concerts and jazz -hop/  deep funk DJS). Come hungry and early, as the tables fill up quickly at the weekend and the food is excellent, especially   for the price. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 10:00. PAILEBXSW Hallelujah Bar D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 7/8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 59 26. Very similar to a lot of  other bars around town, this little place goes wild at the weekends with youngsters getting hot and sweaty to the sounds of the 1980s, 1990s, current Russian rock  bands and occasionally the Ghostbusters theme tune to amuse the students. It can get hot as hell in here, bu t on the upside you may dance wherever you want, be it the street or the table. Th ere‘s also a fussball table if you are not feeling quite yet in the mo od to join the par ty. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PLESW Lenconcert XXXX D-2, Kamenoostrovsky pr. 11a, M Gorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 644 44 46, www.

lenconcertxxxx.ru. There‘s no disguising it, the people who go to Lenconcert are really ridiculously good-looking  good-looking  and the scrutiny on the door is brutal and efficient in sifting  out the most attractive guests from the wannabes. Once inside the action usually starts at the wide bar which has steps leading up to it to allow for bar top dancing and when there‘s no concerts the DJs crank things up to full on sexy  pop (think Britney, Rihanna, Beyonce and co.) so the girls can have fun. Concerts range from house music to Russian stand-up comedy and retro nostalgic pop, so it is definitely  worth checking the schedule beforehand. When not in party  mode, the venue also serves as a classy Russian-European restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat  15:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PAEW

Mod club D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 7 (in the yard), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 712 07 34, www.modclub.

info. They‘ve made great use of the space here, with an

intimate DJ bar for the stool-warming set adjacent to a large bi-level stage area where you can see some up-and-coming  rock groups. For those who‘ve been in town awhile, you never  know who you‘ll bump into here on the packed weekends. Only  the queue for coat check on your way in could be cause for  complaint. Otherwise, it‘s a great place to drink, dance, be merry and find a friend. Just be aware as the hour progresses, often quicker than you think, the crowd tends to get more than a little drunk and often more than a little rowdy, too. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. Face control. PEB

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

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st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Purga D-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, ww w.purga-club.ru. There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year‘s Eve every every nigh t complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet  leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead i f you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities b egin. Q Purga I open daily 16:00 - 06:00. Purga II 20:00 - 04:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission better to check on site. PAEW Radiobaby C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr., www. radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy modern

St. Petersburg’s live music scene is really buzzing and there are a wide range of live music clu bs to choose from where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian bands. For the better known names you should head to the bigger concert halls such as Kosmonavt, Club Jagger or Zal Ozhidaniya. If you prefer to step into the underground and explore the local scene a bit closer there are a number of great  intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique - and the GEZ experimental sound centre in the neighbouring  Pushkinskaya art centre usual ly tend towards rock, indie and alternative bands, while the intimate Tsokol is also a favourite for underground rock and punk bands. New places on the scene include the friendly ‘Soundbar’ Banka which hosts concerts, art parties and DJ nights Thursday through Sunday. Banka D-2 Ul. Tchaikovskogo 12 MChernyshevs-

Jazz and Blues Jazz Philharm Philharmony ony C-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.

While it can‘t really be called a cafe, ‚the Church of Jazz,‘ as this venue is known, is a bit of legend in St. Petersburg. The large hall, reminiscen t of a 1940s jazz club, has a stage, balconies and comfortable tables. The Jazz Philharmony has all manner of acts. The performances are usually of a highstandard, and it‘s not unusual to see the club‘s eccentric director stand up and jam on his violin wi th the musicians of  the day. The Museum of Petersburg Jazz is on the second  floor. Q EK JFC Jazz Club E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club. spb.ru. It‘s hard to believe that this intimate, little club can

hold more than 100 people. It has a stage, a handful of  tables and standing space around the bar, for the people who forget to book a table. It‘s popular with the city‘s artsy  scene and with people who know their jaz z. It has original performances by top-notch musicians playing just about  anything from experimental jazz, to acid jazz to blues. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. PUEW

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru.

Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or  a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW Daiquiri Bar D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar. ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits

cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremly friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly goo d. With more than 250 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Tsvetochki D-3, Rubinsteina ul. 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a hand ful of  small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or  complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of countr y,  jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking  staff an added feature. Tsvetochki Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PABW Zing Bar C-3, Lomonosova ul. 14, MDostoevskaya. Cocktails, Russia‘s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Café del Mar soundtrack, it‘s possible!) are the draw cards of  this stylish little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much so that you can‘t actually  see anyone or anything as can be experienced elsewhere. In another seemingly innovative move it‘s all non-smoking  and there‘s little in the way of face control. The menu  focuses on the classics and is historically separated into ‘old‘ (19th Century), recent and modern sections which also includes their own Russian influenced creations. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAGW

October - November 2012

instruments on a small stage in this intimate cellar. Here it   feels as though Jimmy Hendri x is still ali ve - if he is, h e‘s probably a frequent visitor! The kitchen serves excellent  Russian and Georgian food. If you wonder why it takes so long before you get your order: it‘s all made fresh. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAE

Rossi‘s C/D-3, Zodchego Rossi ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr.,

Karaoke bars

tel. (+7) 812 710 40 16, [email protected], www.rossis.ru.

Perhaps the best place to do karaoke in town. Great selection of songs, including a number of unusual ones. Karaoke bar  is part of the mega club Rossi‘s, so you will have to pay the entrance for the whole club. Once inside go straight to the back. The patrons pay attention and give standing ovations after worthy attempts. Those who shine and sing repeatedly may get free songs and beers tossed in their direction. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. PAES

Fever D-2, VO, Kadetskaya Liniya 19, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88. With the black glitter  wallpaper, red plastic chandeliers and filagree curlicues decorating every available surface, this karaoke bar is more than a bit gothic Barbie. The sound system is quality, the stage is front and centre without being obstrusive and the song list is truly sta ggering in it‘s length and breadth. Friendly, professional staff is a bonus an d the couches offered an uber  plush vantage point from which to view the enthusiastic, if  less than talen ted, take to the mike. Q Open 18:00 - 06:00, Fri - Sun 17:00-06:00. Closed Mon. PALEW Metro С-4, Ligovsky pr. 174, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 766 02 04, www.metroclub.ru. This ultra clean multilevel dance complex (where chewing gum is banned!) is extremely popular with teenagers. Choose from techno, Eurodance and Russian pop. If you tire of dancing, there‘s also karaoke, a dance show and soft porn in the chill-out  room. Metro has strict face-control, but the sturdy male and female bouncers are polite as they frisk you. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. PLB

Gay and lesbian Blue Oyster (Golubaya Ustritsa) C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 332 51 61, www.boyster. ru. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. Entrance strictly only for those age 18+. PAE Central Station C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 1/28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 36 00, www.centralstation.ru. QOpen

22:00 - 06:00. Entrance strictly only for those age

18+. PAEK

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

Show Hall Atmosfera Show Hall Atmosfera E-1, Lesnoy pr. 48, MLesnaya, tel. (+7) 812 907 62 62, www.showhallatmosfera.ru. The theatrical and gloriously kitsch Show

Hall Atmosfera encompasses all kinds of entertainment  under one roof. Here you‘ll find a festive atmosphere with larger-than-life shows featuring not only well-known singers, but also dancing fountains, colourful laser shows and sometimes even acrobats. The interior is beyond imagination with huge pillars inspired by Greek Gods surrounding the immense amphitheatre style set-up. Not   just a place for dancing and enjoying live entertainment, Atmosfera also boats an extensive menu of European and Asian cuisine. Pay special attention to the pool filled with live fish - there‘s the option to choose one to become a part of your meal cooked anyway you like. Make sure to call ahead as the hall is sometimes booked out for private parties. Q Open Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Entrance to the show 500Rbl. PTALVESW

Jimi Hendrix Blues Club D-3, Liteiny pr. 33, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club. ru. Russian blues stars play songs with their soul and other 

décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance  floor, bar and chill-ou t room all flowing in to one another s o you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

kaya, bankaclub.com Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. kosmonavt.su. Club Fish Fabrique Nouvelle E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57. Club Jagger Pl. Konstitutsii 2, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 923 12 92, jaggerclub.ru. Club Zal Ozhidaniya Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www. clubzal.com. Tsokol D/E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 2/3, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 274 94 67, www.zoccolo.ru

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Bar (812) D-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovs-

Nightlife

a block from Nevsky, this compact, two-storey bar oozes with upper income gents and the ladies who love them. Once past   face control at the bar, bar, there‘s there‘s another vip option upstairsthat‘s ideal for surveying the crowd/newcomers over your hookah and cocktails. Barmen are professional mixers who like to show off  their dance moves and bottle tossing abilities, th ough they do tone it down and speed i t up when the place gets busy. This is definitely designer dress territory so if you don‘t look the part, speak English - it might get you through. Q Open Fri - Sat: 22:00 - 06:00 Free admission if you pass face control. PA

Live Music Clubs

Cocktail Bars

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Nebar D-3, Liteiny pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 05 05, ww w.nebar.ru. w.nebar.ru. A prime central location, just up

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Gentlemen‘s Clubs Striptease is big business in Russia. Russians have made from poledancing not only an erotic but also an acrobatic act. If you want to admire attractive ladies and enjoy professionally choreographed dances there’s more than enough good places to visit in St. Petersburg. Extras like a lap dance, dance in a private room or a special request such as a lesbi-dance, shower shows, retro themed strip or whatever else floats your boat  are available and they will try their best to accomodate your wildest desires. Maximus C-2, Kirpichny per. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 05 88, www.maximus-club.ru. QOpen 19:00 - 18:00.

Seven Rooms D/C-2, Ul. Sadovaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 84, ww w.sevenrooms.ru. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.

To read about even more clubs and bars in St. Peterburg and find out about all the latest  openings, check out our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com October - November 2012

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Nightlife

Nightlife Nebar D-3, Liteiny pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 05 05, ww w.nebar.ru. w.nebar.ru. A prime central location, just up

a block from Nevsky, this compact, two-storey bar oozes with upper income gents and the ladies who love them. Once past   face control at the bar, bar, there‘s there‘s another vip option upstairsthat‘s ideal for surveying the crowd/newcomers over your hookah and cocktails. Barmen are professional mixers who like to show off  their dance moves and bottle tossing abilities, th ough they do tone it down and speed i t up when the place gets busy. This is definitely designer dress territory so if you don‘t look the part, speak English - it might get you through. Q Open Fri - Sat: 22:00 - 06:00 Free admission if you pass face control. PA Purga D-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, ww w.purga-club.ru. There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year‘s Eve every every nigh t complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet  leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead i f you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities b egin. Q Purga I open daily 16:00 - 06:00. Purga II 20:00 - 04:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission better to check on site. PAEW Radiobaby C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr., www. radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy modern

Live Music Clubs St. Petersburg’s live music scene is really buzzing and there are a wide range of live music clu bs to choose from where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian bands. For the better known names you should head to the bigger concert halls such as Kosmonavt, Club Jagger or Zal Ozhidaniya. If you prefer to step into the underground and explore the local scene a bit closer there are a number of great  intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique - and the GEZ experimental sound centre in the neighbouring  Pushkinskaya art centre usual ly tend towards rock, indie and alternative bands, while the intimate Tsokol is also a favourite for underground rock and punk bands. New places on the scene include the friendly ‘Soundbar’ Banka which hosts concerts, art parties and DJ nights Thursday through Sunday. Banka D-2 Ul. Tchaikovskogo 12 MChernyshevs-

46

Jazz Philharm Philharmony ony C-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.

While it can‘t really be called a cafe, ‚the Church of Jazz,‘ as this venue is known, is a bit of legend in St. Petersburg. The large hall, reminiscen t of a 1940s jazz club, has a stage, balconies and comfortable tables. The Jazz Philharmony has all manner of acts. The performances are usually of a highstandard, and it‘s not unusual to see the club‘s eccentric director stand up and jam on his violin wi th the musicians of  the day. The Museum of Petersburg Jazz is on the second  floor. Q EK JFC Jazz Club E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club. spb.ru. It‘s hard to believe that this intimate, little club can

hold more than 100 people. It has a stage, a handful of  tables and standing space around the bar, for the people who forget to book a table. It‘s popular with the city‘s artsy  scene and with people who know their jaz z. It has original performances by top-notch musicians playing just about  anything from experimental jazz, to acid jazz to blues. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. PUEW

instruments on a small stage in this intimate cellar. Here it   feels as though Jimmy Hendri x is still ali ve - if he is, h e‘s probably a frequent visitor! The kitchen serves excellent  Russian and Georgian food. If you wonder why it takes so long before you get your order: it‘s all made fresh. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAE

Rossi‘s C/D-3, Zodchego Rossi ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr.,

Karaoke bars

tel. (+7) 812 710 40 16, [email protected], www.rossis.ru.

Perhaps the best place to do karaoke in town. Great selection of songs, including a number of unusual ones. Karaoke bar  is part of the mega club Rossi‘s, so you will have to pay the entrance for the whole club. Once inside go straight to the back. The patrons pay attention and give standing ovations after worthy attempts. Those who shine and sing repeatedly may get free songs and beers tossed in their direction. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. PAES

Fever D-2, VO, Kadetskaya Liniya 19, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88. With the black glitter  wallpaper, red plastic chandeliers and filagree curlicues decorating every available surface, this karaoke bar is more than a bit gothic Barbie. The sound system is quality, the stage is front and centre without being obstrusive and the song list is truly sta ggering in it‘s length and breadth. Friendly, professional staff is a bonus an d the couches offered an uber  plush vantage point from which to view the enthusiastic, if  less than talen ted, take to the mike. Q Open 18:00 - 06:00, Fri - Sun 17:00-06:00. Closed Mon. PALEW Metro С-4, Ligovsky pr. 174, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 766 02 04, www.metroclub.ru. This ultra clean multilevel dance complex (where chewing gum is banned!) is extremely popular with teenagers. Choose from techno, Eurodance and Russian pop. If you tire of dancing, there‘s also karaoke, a dance show and soft porn in the chill-out  room. Metro has strict face-control, but the sturdy male and female bouncers are polite as they frisk you. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. PLB

Gay and lesbian Blue Oyster (Golubaya Ustritsa) C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 332 51 61, www.boyster. ru. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. Entrance strictly only for those age 18+. PAE Central Station C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 1/28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 36 00, www.centralstation.ru. QOpen

22:00 - 06:00. Entrance strictly only for those age

18+. PAEK

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Churches (Orthodox) Aleksander Nevsky Monastery E-4, Nab. reky Monastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, ww w.lavra.spb.ru. w.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great,

in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia‘s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily  06:00 - 20:00. Monastery  06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cath edral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30.

St. Isaac‘s Cathedral C-2, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, w ww.cathedral. ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac‘s is one of the

world‘s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by  Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome‘s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth th e effort. ort. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for the cath edral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 250-350Rbl. Colonnade 150-300Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Kazan Cathedral C-2, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru.

This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing  Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer  and contemplation. contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7)

812 570 45 28.

snaya, tel. (+7) 812 907 62 62, www.showhallatmosfera.ru. The theatrical and gloriously kitsch Show

Hall Atmosfera encompasses all kinds of entertainment  under one roof. Here you‘ll find a festive atmosphere with larger-than-life shows featuring not only well-known singers, but also dancing fountains, colourful laser shows and sometimes even acrobats. The interior is beyond imagination with huge pillars inspired by Greek Gods surrounding the immense amphitheatre style set-up. Not   just a place for dancing and enjoying live entertainment, Atmosfera also boats an extensive menu of European and Asian cuisine. Pay special attention to the pool filled with live fish - there‘s the option to choose one to become a part of your meal cooked anyway you like. Make sure to call ahead as the hall is sometimes booked out for private parties. Q Open Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Entrance to the show 500Rbl. PTALVESW

Gentlemen‘s Clubs Striptease is big business in Russia. Russians have made from poledancing not only an erotic but also an acrobatic act. If you want to admire attractive ladies and enjoy professionally choreographed dances there’s more than enough good places to visit in St. Petersburg. Extras like a lap dance, dance in a private room or a special request such as a lesbi-dance, shower shows, retro themed strip or whatever else floats your boat  are available and they will try their best to accomodate your wildest desires. Maximus C-2, Kirpichny per. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 05 88, www.maximus-club.ru. QOpen 19:00 - 18:00.

Seven Rooms D/C-2, Ul. Sadovaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 84, ww w.sevenrooms.ru. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.

To read about even more clubs and bars in St. Peterburg and find out about all the latest  openings, check out our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com October - November 2012

sightseeing Church of the Saviour on the Spilt BloodD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church

with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of  the city‘s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It  got its awkward name because it was built on the spot  where Tsar Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl.

Russian Orthodox Religion When entering an Or thodox church, always remember  to dress conservatively - that means absolutely no shorts, short skirts, low cut tops, or sleeveless shirts. As you enter men should remove any headwear, whereas women should cover their heads. Usually at  the entrance there will be a box of headscarves that  you can borrow if you don’t have your own. In Orthodox churches there are almost no chairs as when you meet  with God you should be humble and standing. The very  old and infirm may be allowed to sit for some time, but  someone who is young or fit should never try to take a seat. If there is n o service most believers will head  for the icons, leaving a can dle in front o f it (rep resentative of their prayer) and kissing the hands or face of  the icon. During an Orthodox service, the priest (who should be addressed as batushka) will usually l ead the congregation through a long session of prayer - which will sound like a long and mournful song. He will then circle the church spreading i ncense (representative of  the sweetness of prayer), before returning back behind the iconostasis, which always remains closed except   for on Easte r.

Museums Kunstkamera (Peter (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru.St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was  founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It i s also known as t he Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection wit h its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon an d last Tue of  every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the  famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter Peter and Paul, Paul, along  with numerous museums, galleries and spec tacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the histor y of the Fortress itsel f. However, However, the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very  quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk. Q The  fortress is open 06:00 06:00 - 22:00. 22:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 350Rbl (ticket valid for all museums ). Excursion 250Rbl. Audioguide 200-250Rbl.

Take note that most museum ticket office close one hour before the official closing  time. Also remember most museums ask  you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos. St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Show Hall Atmosfera E-1, Lesnoy pr. 48, MLe-

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

sightseeing St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Design ed by Europe‘s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city  has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

Show Hall Atmosfera

Jimi Hendrix Blues Club D-3, Liteiny pr. 33, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club. ru. Russian blues stars play songs with their soul and other 

décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance  floor, bar and chill-ou t room all flowing in to one another s o you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

kaya, bankaclub.com Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. kosmonavt.su. Club Fish Fabrique Nouvelle E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57. Club Jagger Pl. Konstitutsii 2, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 923 12 92, jaggerclub.ru. Club Zal Ozhidaniya Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www. clubzal.com. Tsokol D/E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 2/3, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 274 94 67, www.zoccolo.ru

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Jazz and Blues

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

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Hermitage State Hermitage Museum C/D-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, w ww.hermitagemuseum.org. The director of  the Hermitage once said, “I

can‘t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it‘s certainly  not the second.” And with

over three million works of art  and treasures housed in five connected buildings along  the Neva, the museum can‘t   fail to impress. Give yourself  plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolu te minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks. The museum‘s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionis ts like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of  Oriental and Middle Eastern art. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Free admission international and Russian children and students. Audioguide foreigners 350Rbl, Russians 250Rbl. First Thu of the month FREE admission for ALL visitors. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

Russian Etnographic Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www.ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle

of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by di fferent fferent native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Some information about  exhibits is available in English. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.). Yusupov Palace C-2, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 332 19 91, www.yusupov-palace. ru. This palace was purchased by the wealthy Yusupov family 

in 1830 to house their art collection an d retains an aristocratic atmosphere. It also was the scene of the grisly murder of the sleazy Siberian peasant Rasputin, who was exercising too much influence over the royal family for Felix Yusupov‘s liking. On the Rasputin tour you can see where Felix and his entourage tried to poison Rasputin in the cellar in 1916, before they beat him and chucked him into the Moika, where he finally die d. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group tours should be booked in ad vance by phone 314 88 93. Admission 500Rbl. Audioguide free, 1,000Rbl deposit. October - November 2012

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sightseeing St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Design ed by Europe‘s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city  has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

Churches (Orthodox) Aleksander Nevsky Monastery E-4, Nab. reky Monastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, ww w.lavra.spb.ru. w.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great,

in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia‘s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily  06:00 - 20:00. Monastery  06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cath edral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30.

St. Isaac‘s Cathedral C-2, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, w ww.cathedral. ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac‘s is one of the

world‘s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by  Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome‘s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth th e effort. ort. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for the cath edral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 250-350Rbl. Colonnade 150-300Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Kazan Cathedral C-2, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru.

This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing  Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer  and contemplation. contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7)

812 570 45 28.

sightseeing Church of the Saviour on the Spilt BloodD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church

with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of  the city‘s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It  got its awkward name because it was built on the spot  where Tsar Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl.

Russian Orthodox Religion When entering an Or thodox church, always remember  to dress conservatively - that means absolutely no shorts, short skirts, low cut tops, or sleeveless shirts. As you enter men should remove any headwear, whereas women should cover their heads. Usually at  the entrance there will be a box of headscarves that  you can borrow if you don’t have your own. In Orthodox churches there are almost no chairs as when you meet  with God you should be humble and standing. The very  old and infirm may be allowed to sit for some time, but  someone who is young or fit should never try to take a seat. If there is n o service most believers will head  for the icons, leaving a can dle in front o f it (rep resentative of their prayer) and kissing the hands or face of  the icon. During an Orthodox service, the priest (who should be addressed as batushka) will usually l ead the congregation through a long session of prayer - which will sound like a long and mournful song. He will then circle the church spreading i ncense (representative of  the sweetness of prayer), before returning back behind the iconostasis, which always remains closed except   for on Easte r.

Museums Kunstkamera (Peter (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru.St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was  founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It i s also known as t he Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection wit h its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon an d last Tue of  every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the  famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter Peter and Paul, Paul, along  with numerous museums, galleries and spec tacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the histor y of the Fortress itsel f. However, However, the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very  quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk. Q The  fortress is open 06:00 06:00 - 22:00. 22:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 350Rbl (ticket valid for all museums ). Excursion 250Rbl. Audioguide 200-250Rbl.

Take note that most museum ticket office close one hour before the official closing  time. Also remember most museums ask  you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos. St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

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sightseeing

Modern art 

Lyrical Lyr ical Cit y 

Russians are a superstitious bunch and all over St. Petersburg you’ll find various statues and monuments that locals believe will guarantee that lady luck shines your way. If you are in need of some good fortune here’s where you should head.

Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-1, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored  five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery  where the works are for sale and the other a museum tra cing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. Currently they have around 2000 works so make sure you give yourself some tim e. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in  for up to 25 people people 3,000Rbl 3,000Rbl per group group by prior prior arrangement. arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl. PAUKW

Anna Akhmatova Museum D-3, Liteiny pr. 53, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 72 39, www. akhmatova.spb.ru.In this former palace you can visit the flat  where Russia‘s greatest poetess lived for almost 30 years. Ten rooms chronologically represent ten eras. Photographs and artefacts from Akhmatova‘s hard and fascinating life are on display; books of her poetry that never left the printing  house and letters from her imprisoned lover. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions of other artists. Audioguides in English, German and French; free texts in English in the rooms. Q Open 10:30 - 18:30, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Clos ed Mon. Admission 60-200Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Chizhik pizhik Little chizhik pizhik (Coming from the nursery rhyme, “Chizhik Pizhik where have you been? Drinking vodka on the green”), is a tiny little bronze bird installed on the

wall of the Fontanka embankment. According to local legend if your coin lands on his little shelf, then you will one day return to St. Petersburg. Sometimes people love Chizhik so much they want to take him home with them and it is reported that the Museum of Urban Sculpture now has 12 extra Chizhik’s in storage just in case. Chizhik  Pizhik is also rumoured to help students to get through unhappy love-affairs and get around on public transport without having tickets. Thanks little Chizhik! Corner of nab. reky Fontanky and nab. reky Moiky. MNevsky pr.

Cat Vasilisa on Malaya Sadovaya During the great Siege of Leningrad, a large nu mber of cats were specially brought to the city to try and combat the problem of an increasing rat populati on. This bronze cat, named Vasilisa, was put here in memory of those great   feline defenders. Locals believe that i f you can throw a coin up onto the ledge where she sits you’ll have a very  lucky day. The cat itself however has not always been so lucky - she is known to regularly fall off her perch as people attempt to climb up there and collect the coins. If she’s not  there then she probably fell off again and is waiting in the burger house next door for someone to arrive with a ladder. Malaya Sadovaya, MNevsky pr. The Hare saved from the flood ‘The Hare Saved from the Flood’ is a monument to a legend dating back to the first founding days of St. Petersburg. The story goes that, during the construction of  the Peter and Paul fortress, Peter the Great (who lived in a cabin nearby) visited the building site one day and got  very angry with his lazy carpenters. In fact he was so mad that he was ready to start kicking them all in the face, when seemingly from nowhere a hare suddenly jumped onto his boot in an apparent bid to save the workers. Fortunately Peter found the whole thing hilarious and decided to spare the workers and the hare. Now locals believe that it’s good luck if your coin lands on the little bunny’s post in the water next to the bridge.

Loft Project Etagi D-3, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 50 05, www.loftprojectetagi.ru.

This five-floored building used to be a bakery factory in the past, but now instead of breads it‘s art pieces that come in and out the door. With two main galleries, exhibition rooms, a bookstore, clothes shops and cafe, Etagi works more as an art center than a gallery. A New York atmosphere is provided by the high ceilings, the wooden floors and uncovered pipes along the concrete walls, but St Petersburg artists occupy  the main branch of the exhibitions, that usually are for free. Film festivals, kids workshops and even pet adoption fairs are held in Etagi, which is the pioneer gallery with a loft style in the city. Q Open daily 12:00 - 22:00. Admission 0-200Rbl. TNBK

Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square meter loft is locate d in a spectacular old building made of red bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second hal f  of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky  brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Ru ssia - you can smell it in the air! They have a specific atmosphere here and you can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, art workshops and nice parties. They also have a little strawberry farm where Israeli bumblebees are working  very hard on pollinating strawberr y. Soon a library, library, bookstore and cafe will be opened. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission  free. Special events 100-200Rbl. 100-200Rbl. TNBKW

Ioannovsky Most, Peter and Paul Fortress,

MGorkovskaya

The Griffins The two griffins guarding the treasures of the S tate Academy of Arts on the Universitetskaya embankment, also supposedly protect the city’s citizens too. Legend has it  that if you stick your hand into the mouth o f one of the two griffins and stroke its tongue, then i t will grant you a wish in return. There’s only one catch though. Apparently you can only wish for something nice to happen to someon e else. Universitetskaya nab. 11, MVasileostrovskaya

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Hermitage State Hermitage Museum C/D-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, w ww.hermitagemuseum.org. The director of  the Hermitage once said, “I

can‘t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it‘s certainly  not the second.” And with

over three million works of art  and treasures housed in five connected buildings along  the Neva, the museum can‘t   fail to impress. Give yourself  plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolu te minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks. The museum‘s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionis ts like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of  Oriental and Middle Eastern art. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Free admission international and Russian children and students. Audioguide foreigners 350Rbl, Russians 250Rbl. First Thu of the month FREE admission for ALL visitors. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

Russian Etnographic Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www.ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle

of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by di fferent fferent native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Some information about  exhibits is available in English. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.). Yusupov Palace C-2, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 332 19 91, www.yusupov-palace. ru. This palace was purchased by the wealthy Yusupov family 

in 1830 to house their art collection an d retains an aristocratic atmosphere. It also was the scene of the grisly murder of the sleazy Siberian peasant Rasputin, who was exercising too much influence over the royal family for Felix Yusupov‘s liking. On the Rasputin tour you can see where Felix and his entourage tried to poison Rasputin in the cellar in 1916, before they beat him and chucked him into the Moika, where he finally die d. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group tours should be booked in ad vance by phone 314 88 93. Admission 500Rbl. Audioguide free, 1,000Rbl deposit. October - November 2012

sightseeing

Toss a coin

F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum D-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Dostoevsky‘s weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literary and memorial (his apartment and belongings). The audio-guide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include n ewspaper  articles that inspired him and photographs of the hous e where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating  biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, turbulent  life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00.

Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours  for up to to 20 people 1,550Rbl 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in Q

advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.

Pushkin Apartment Museum D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Through the old oak doors you enter a

tranquil courtyard, surrounded by 18th century buildings, to find a statue of Alexander Pushkin, strewn with fresh  flowers. Thi s is the place where he lived and wher e he died after his tragi c duel. Pushkin‘s legacy is well captured; captured; learn about his inspirati ons, life and character. His death-mask  displayed in a glass case is certainly something to see, as is his beautiful library of over 2000 books. Q Open 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 100Rbl, Audioguide 100Rbl. Guided tours up to 20 people 4,000Rbl per group.

The Bronze Horseman Possibly the most famous and best loved monument in the city, the Bronze Horseman is as much an emblem of  St. Petersburg as the Statue of Liberty is emblematic of New York. The bronze statue of Peter the Great and his even greater horse was designed at the behest of  Catherine the Great by French sculptor Étienne Maurice Falconet. The massive granite pedestal on which the six metre statue stands, known as ‘the thunderstone’, is estimated to weigh 1500 tonnes and is thought to be the largest stone ever moved by manpower alone. The 6km journey across land (to a waiting barge) took two years to complete and is considered one of Russia’s greatest historical feats of engineering. The statue was later immortalised in a poem by Pushkin in which the bronze horseman comes to life and chases the poem’s hero Evgeny through the city’s streets. Look around the horse’s feet for a snake being crushed - said to be representative of Peter’s defeat of Sweden.

Looking for Lenin? Statues of Lenin can be  fou nd in th e Botanical Gardens on the Petrograd Side (PS) (D-1), and across town at Smolny Institute. If you’re flying out, wave goodbye to Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov (Lenin’s full name) as you go past Ploshchad Moskovskaya. If you’re at  Finlyandsky Station (E-2) though you will no longer  see Lenin. He’s under repair after having a giant  hole blown through his legs with TNT on April 01 2009. Those pesky kids…

Russian Museum Marble Palace D-2, Ul. Millionnaya 5/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 91 96, www.rusmuseum.ru.

During Soviet times, this museum of foreign art was called the Lenin Museum. It has a decent collection, which includes works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and even Picasso. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-300Rbl. Mikhailovsky Castle D-2, Ul. Sadovaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.

rusmuseum.ru. The palace, with its canals and secret  underground passa geway, geway, was built to protec t Tsar Paul I, who was petrifi ed of being murdered. Ironicall y, 40 days after he moved in, he was assassinated in a military  plot. A few years later, it became a school for engineers, and today, it‘s a branch of the Russian Museum. It has a portrait gallery of Russian public figures, temporary  exhibitions and occasionally plays and lectures. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.

Russian Museum - Mikhailovsky Palace D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thir-

teenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. genre. It is widely a cclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of i cons from ancient  Rus. The Benois Wing ha s an especially strong display of  work from the turn of the twentieth centur y. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. U

C-2, Aleksandrovsky garden, MAdmiralteiskaya.

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

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October - November 2012

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sightseeing

sightseeing

Toss a coin

Modern art 

Lyrical Lyr ical Cit y 

Russians are a superstitious bunch and all over St. Petersburg you’ll find various statues and monuments that locals believe will guarantee that lady luck shines your way. If you are in need of some good fortune here’s where you should head.

Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-1, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored  five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery  where the works are for sale and the other a museum tra cing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. Currently they have around 2000 works so make sure you give yourself some tim e. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in  for up to 25 people people 3,000Rbl 3,000Rbl per group group by prior prior arrangement. arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl. PAUKW

Anna Akhmatova Museum D-3, Liteiny pr. 53, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 72 39, www. akhmatova.spb.ru.In this former palace you can visit the flat  where Russia‘s greatest poetess lived for almost 30 years. Ten rooms chronologically represent ten eras. Photographs and artefacts from Akhmatova‘s hard and fascinating life are on display; books of her poetry that never left the printing  house and letters from her imprisoned lover. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions of other artists. Audioguides in English, German and French; free texts in English in the rooms. Q Open 10:30 - 18:30, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Clos ed Mon. Admission 60-200Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Chizhik pizhik Little chizhik pizhik (Coming from the nursery rhyme, “Chizhik Pizhik where have you been? Drinking vodka on the green”), is a tiny little bronze bird installed on the

wall of the Fontanka embankment. According to local legend if your coin lands on his little shelf, then you will one day return to St. Petersburg. Sometimes people love Chizhik so much they want to take him home with them and it is reported that the Museum of Urban Sculpture now has 12 extra Chizhik’s in storage just in case. Chizhik  Pizhik is also rumoured to help students to get through unhappy love-affairs and get around on public transport without having tickets. Thanks little Chizhik! Corner of nab. reky Fontanky and nab. reky Moiky. MNevsky pr.

Cat Vasilisa on Malaya Sadovaya During the great Siege of Leningrad, a large nu mber of cats were specially brought to the city to try and combat the problem of an increasing rat populati on. This bronze cat, named Vasilisa, was put here in memory of those great   feline defenders. Locals believe that i f you can throw a coin up onto the ledge where she sits you’ll have a very  lucky day. The cat itself however has not always been so lucky - she is known to regularly fall off her perch as people attempt to climb up there and collect the coins. If she’s not  there then she probably fell off again and is waiting in the burger house next door for someone to arrive with a ladder. Malaya Sadovaya, MNevsky pr. The Hare saved from the flood ‘The Hare Saved from the Flood’ is a monument to a legend dating back to the first founding days of St. Petersburg. The story goes that, during the construction of  the Peter and Paul fortress, Peter the Great (who lived in a cabin nearby) visited the building site one day and got  very angry with his lazy carpenters. In fact he was so mad that he was ready to start kicking them all in the face, when seemingly from nowhere a hare suddenly jumped onto his boot in an apparent bid to save the workers. Fortunately Peter found the whole thing hilarious and decided to spare the workers and the hare. Now locals believe that it’s good luck if your coin lands on the little bunny’s post in the water next to the bridge.

Loft Project Etagi D-3, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 50 05, www.loftprojectetagi.ru.

This five-floored building used to be a bakery factory in the past, but now instead of breads it‘s art pieces that come in and out the door. With two main galleries, exhibition rooms, a bookstore, clothes shops and cafe, Etagi works more as an art center than a gallery. A New York atmosphere is provided by the high ceilings, the wooden floors and uncovered pipes along the concrete walls, but St Petersburg artists occupy  the main branch of the exhibitions, that usually are for free. Film festivals, kids workshops and even pet adoption fairs are held in Etagi, which is the pioneer gallery with a loft style in the city. Q Open daily 12:00 - 22:00. Admission 0-200Rbl. TNBK

Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square meter loft is locate d in a spectacular old building made of red bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second hal f  of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky  brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Ru ssia - you can smell it in the air! They have a specific atmosphere here and you can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, art workshops and nice parties. They also have a little strawberry farm where Israeli bumblebees are working  very hard on pollinating strawberr y. Soon a library, library, bookstore and cafe will be opened. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission  free. Special events 100-200Rbl. 100-200Rbl. TNBKW

Ioannovsky Most, Peter and Paul Fortress,

MGorkovskaya

The Griffins The two griffins guarding the treasures of the S tate Academy of Arts on the Universitetskaya embankment, also supposedly protect the city’s citizens too. Legend has it  that if you stick your hand into the mouth o f one of the two griffins and stroke its tongue, then i t will grant you a wish in return. There’s only one catch though. Apparently you can only wish for something nice to happen to someon e else. Universitetskaya nab. 11, MVasileostrovskaya

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

50

F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum D-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Dostoevsky‘s weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literary and memorial (his apartment and belongings). The audio-guide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include n ewspaper  articles that inspired him and photographs of the hous e where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating  biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, turbulent  life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00.

Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours  for up to to 20 people 1,550Rbl 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in Q

advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.

Pushkin Apartment Museum D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Through the old oak doors you enter a

tranquil courtyard, surrounded by 18th century buildings, to find a statue of Alexander Pushkin, strewn with fresh  flowers. Thi s is the place where he lived and wher e he died after his tragi c duel. Pushkin‘s legacy is well captured; captured; learn about his inspirati ons, life and character. His death-mask  displayed in a glass case is certainly something to see, as is his beautiful library of over 2000 books. Q Open 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 100Rbl, Audioguide 100Rbl. Guided tours up to 20 people 4,000Rbl per group.

The Bronze Horseman Possibly the most famous and best loved monument in the city, the Bronze Horseman is as much an emblem of  St. Petersburg as the Statue of Liberty is emblematic of New York. The bronze statue of Peter the Great and his even greater horse was designed at the behest of  Catherine the Great by French sculptor Étienne Maurice Falconet. The massive granite pedestal on which the six metre statue stands, known as ‘the thunderstone’, is estimated to weigh 1500 tonnes and is thought to be the largest stone ever moved by manpower alone. The 6km journey across land (to a waiting barge) took two years to complete and is considered one of Russia’s greatest historical feats of engineering. The statue was later immortalised in a poem by Pushkin in which the bronze horseman comes to life and chases the poem’s hero Evgeny through the city’s streets. Look around the horse’s feet for a snake being crushed - said to be representative of Peter’s defeat of Sweden.

Biketour D-3, Skat Prokat Bike Shop, Ul. Goncharnaya 7, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 68 38, www.biketour.spb.ru. Want to see St. Petersburg by bike? Rent a bike at Skatprokat for the day and wander the canals at your own pace. They provide locks and helmets, are centrally located next to train station, Moskovsky Moskovsky Vokzal, they can help you plan the best route around the cit y and help to navigate around the traffic.This bilingual guided bike tour (3,5 - 4hrs) leaves every  Saturday and Sunday at 11:00 from Skat prokat Bike shop . The tour takes in the panorama of St. Petersburg in all its glor y, avoiding main roads and traffic and covers all the big sights. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Cost 1200 Rbl (including bike rental, discount for children and for those who bring their own bike). City Tour Bus D-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 47 69, ww w.citytourspb.ru. Tracing a rou te around the city‘s most popular spots such as St. Isaac‘s Square, Avrora, Peter and Paul Fortress, these hop-on, hopoff buses are a great way to see a lot in just a short time. The route takes just over 2 hours to complete and there are audio-guides available in eight languages including Chinese and Japanese. The added advantage is also that there is an interval of around 2 hours between stops which is long enough  for photos, lunch or even even a beer on an embankment. embankment. Q Bus leaves every 1 hour from pl. Ostrovskogo starting at 09:00 with the last departure at 20:00. Adults 450Rbl, students 350Rbl, children under 12 years old 200Rbl. Ti cket remains valid for 1 day and can be bought on the bus. PUN

Egypt on the Neva Like most European Empires, the tsarist Russian empire was in love with monumental and exotic Egyptian symbolism. The most famous sphinxes in St. Petersburg are the city’s only original pair. Situated on nab.

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Peterswalk - Walking, Bicycle and Boat Tours E-3, tel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www.peterswalk.com. A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in some extremely  informative and downright friendly guides makes going on a Peter’s Walking Tour one of the best choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides are extremely informative about architecture and history, as well as modern Russian society and with th eir ‘alternative’ routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist traps and reveal the real city. By the end of your tour you feel inspired and educated. They also have bicycle tours and new canal boat tours: enjoy the view of Saint  Petersburg sitting on a brand new comfortable boat with an open deck at the back an d a sun-roof inside area in the front. And you can bring your own drinks in here! For more information and full timetable check out the website. Q Original walking  tour daily 10:30 (Vladimirsky pr. 1); bicycle tour Sat, San 11:00. Sptn!k C-2, Birzhevaya liniya 16 (VO), MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 418 35 11, ww w.sptnik.com. Those who want to get down and really meet the locals rather than  just sweatily bumping into th em in metro carriages and late night clubs should check out the ambitious new tourist guide service offered by sptn!k. It‘s a simple scheme whereby local volunteers take visitors into the best parts of their daily  life; whether it be hidden Soviet-era cafes, roof top vistas, communal apartments, flea markets, artist studios, student  dorms or quirky courtyards, every tour is unique, insightful and enlightening. Envisaged as a cross-cultural project they  aim to give tourists a slice of real life and show them their   favourite parts of th e city which touri sts might n ever get to see, whilst also giving th eir foreign guests the chance to meet  and get to know real citizens of St. Petersburg. To see what  their previous walking tours have been like check out their  blog blog.sptnik.com and to get on in a tour yourself head to their official website sptnik.com. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Guided tours in English up to 1,200Rbl. Some free tours are also available. Groups up to 15 people. AUW

Russian Museum Marble Palace D-2, Ul. Millionnaya 5/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 91 96, www.rusmuseum.ru.

During Soviet times, this museum of foreign art was called the Lenin Museum. It has a decent collection, which includes works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and even Picasso. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-300Rbl. Mikhailovsky Castle D-2, Ul. Sadovaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.

rusmuseum.ru. The palace, with its canals and secret  underground passa geway, geway, was built to protec t Tsar Paul I, who was petrifi ed of being murdered. Ironicall y, 40 days after he moved in, he was assassinated in a military  plot. A few years later, it became a school for engineers, and today, it‘s a branch of the Russian Museum. It has a portrait gallery of Russian public figures, temporary  exhibitions and occasionally plays and lectures. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.

Russian Museum - Mikhailovsky Palace D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thir-

teenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. genre. It is widely a cclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of i cons from ancient  Rus. The Benois Wing ha s an especially strong display of  work from the turn of the twentieth centur y. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. U

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

Saints of Petersburg Russian orthodoxy has always been closely associated with pilgrimages and the worshiping of icons and holy  relics. Across Russia there are hundreds of sites where the faithful come hoping for miracles and religious solitude. St. Petersburg of course is also no stranger to the phenomenon and hosts its own number of pilgrimage sites dedicated to locally interred saints.

Artillery Museum D-2, PS, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. If  weapons are your thing, then you‘ll enjoy having a l ook around this stockpile of old Russian and foreign military vehicles, dif ferent pieces of artiller y, as well as artillery armaments and ammunition, rifles, military-engineering military-engineering equipment, banners, military uni forms and insignia numbering more that 850,000 items. The Museum also h olds impressive collections of  military related paintings, drawings and sculptures. Outside, big tanks and rocket-launchers are reminders of the military  might of the former Soviet Union. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of th e month. Admission 150300Rbl. Guided tours in English for groups (2 - 30 people) 1,250-5,700Rbl per group by prior arrangement. U Central Naval Museum C-2, Birzhevaya pl. 4, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 25 02, www.navalmuseum.ru. Located in the former stock-exchange building, this

museum shows the history of the Russian and Soviet Navy,  from the time of Peter the Great until the present. Its exhibits include uniforms, flags and even a submarine complete with loadedtorpedoes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 60 - 400Rbl. Photography 60Rbl, video 100Rbl.

Cruiser Avrora E-2, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.na-

valmuseum.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of 

Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by  the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet  Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in  fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for for yourself! Q Open 10:30 - 16:00. Closed M on, Fri.

Military Museums Arctic and Antarctic Museum D-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum.ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-convertedmuseum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor  is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. Though the sign s are in Russian, the museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation simulation of the northern li ghts. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Statues of Lenin can be  fou nd in th e Botanical Gardens on the Petrograd Side (PS) (D-1), and across town at Smolny Institute. If you’re flying out, wave goodbye to Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov (Lenin’s full name) as you go past Ploshchad Moskovskaya. If you’re at  Finlyandsky Station (E-2) though you will no longer  see Lenin. He’s under repair after having a giant  hole blown through his legs with TNT on April 01 2009. Those pesky kids…

sightseeing

Universitetskaya 7 (C-2, MVasileovstrovskaya)

you’ll find two, 32 ton beasts carved from Aswan granite, which were brought here from Egypt in 1832. Hieroglyphs on the side of the monuments link them to Pharaoh Amunhotep of Thebes (1417 – 1379 BC) who was ‘The builder of monuments rising to the sk y’. Further down the Neva on Nab. Robespyera (E-2, MChernyshevskaya)you’ll find ‘Russia’s dark prince of the underground’ (formally known as Mikhail Shemyakin) monuments to the politically repressed. Inspired by their Egyptian brothers downstream, but situated opposite the Kresty prison where for centuries Russian political prison ers were held, these black beasts are half mythical feline creature and half emaciated ghoulish monsters.

Looking for Lenin?

C-2, Aleksandrovsky garden, MAdmiralteiskaya.

sightseeing

Tours around St. Petersburg  Pe tersburg 

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st petersburg inyourpo cket com

Suvorov Memorial Museum E-3, Ul. Kirochnaya 43, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www.suvorovmuseum.ru. Although this museum takes

the name of Suvorov, the great war general of Empress Catherine the Great, it actually covers much more than the military accomplishments of one man. Th ere are comparative history displays of war and battle of the 18th century all over Europe, the deeds of Napoleon and the uniforms and regalia of the time. Did you know that i t was only after the news that Suvorov died that Napoleon decided to invade Russia? The building itself is also worth seeing, built in 1904 following a decree from Nicholas II in a grand style to accentuate what is Russia‘s first memorial museum. To  facilita te better underst anding of the museu m, we recommend taking a guide as they add that extra knowledge which prevents this from being just another visit around some glass covered exhibits. QOpen , Mon, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed. Closed first Monday  in month. Admission 20-250Rbl. 20-250Rbl. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

St. Ksenia Deep inside the Smolensky cemetery on Vasilevsky  ostrov you will find a tiny green church built over the grave of the city’s most revered Saint Ksenia. Widowed at the age of 27, Ksenia gave up all worldly posses sions to spend her life in prayer as a pauper. She was believed to be clairvoyant and soon became famous in the city   for her predictions and miraculous and selfle ss actions. When she died in 1803 and was buried in th e Smolensky  cemetery, every year her grave had to be replaced as pilgrims would come and take the earth away from it, believing it to have healing properties. Eventually the locals decided to build a small church over the grave for  her and ever since the faithful have come here in their  thousands seeking Ksenia’s help. Be warned the church is very small and popular so it can be a bit of an ordeal  for those who suffer from claustropho bia. St. Ksen ia’s  feast day is February 06. Church of St. Ksenia, Smolensky cemetery, MVasileostrovskaya

Alexander Nevsky Alexander Nevsky, Russia’s great medieval hero who has lent his name to St. Petersburg’s main thoroughfare, as well as a brand of local beer, was canonised in 1547, almost 300 years after he died. His greatest claim to  fame was in defeating the invading Catholic German and Swedish armies and making peace with the G olden Horde and thus bringing stability and prosperity to ancient  Rus. Nevsky died in 1263 and in 1380 (in response to a vision on the eve of a great battle) his grave was dug  up and his remains were found completely intact and incorrupted inside.His relics then became highly venerated and when Peter the Great built the first monastery  in St. Petersburg, he had Nevsky’s holy remains moved there. To this day Nevsky’s remains lie in the Alexander  Nevskogo cemetery alongside a massive 95 other saints and martyrs. St. Alexander Nevsky’s feast days are celebrated on August 30 and November 23. Alexander Nevskogo Cemetery, Pl. Alexander Nevskogo, MPl. Alexandra Nevskogo

St. John of Krohnstadt Also known as the Wonder-Working Father John Sergiev of Krohnstadt, St. John was canonised officially by the Russian Orthodox Church in 1990, some 80 years after  his death. Until he was canonised he was already venerated by the many faithful who remembered him as a man of miracles and incredible kindnes s. He dedicated his life to charitable works and to teaching the local children of  the impoverished and squalid Kronstadt island in the mid and late 19th Century, where he worked as a local priest. After he died he was buried in the Convent of St. John in the centre of St. Petersburg and even throughou t  Soviet times, faithful pilgrims came to leave flowers at  the crypt where he is interred. St.John’s feast days are celebrated on December 20 and October 19. Ioannovsky Convent, nab. reky Karpovky 45,

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Tours around St. Petersburg  Pe tersburg  Biketour D-3, Skat Prokat Bike Shop, Ul. Goncharnaya 7, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 68 38, www.biketour.spb.ru. Want to see St. Petersburg by bike? Rent a bike at Skatprokat for the day and wander the canals at your own pace. They provide locks and helmets, are centrally located next to train station, Moskovsky Moskovsky Vokzal, they can help you plan the best route around the cit y and help to navigate around the traffic.This bilingual guided bike tour (3,5 - 4hrs) leaves every  Saturday and Sunday at 11:00 from Skat prokat Bike shop . The tour takes in the panorama of St. Petersburg in all its glor y, avoiding main roads and traffic and covers all the big sights. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Cost 1200 Rbl (including bike rental, discount for children and for those who bring their own bike). City Tour Bus D-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 47 69, ww w.citytourspb.ru. Tracing a rou te around the city‘s most popular spots such as St. Isaac‘s Square, Avrora, Peter and Paul Fortress, these hop-on, hopoff buses are a great way to see a lot in just a short time. The route takes just over 2 hours to complete and there are audio-guides available in eight languages including Chinese and Japanese. The added advantage is also that there is an interval of around 2 hours between stops which is long enough  for photos, lunch or even even a beer on an embankment. embankment. Q Bus leaves every 1 hour from pl. Ostrovskogo starting at 09:00 with the last departure at 20:00. Adults 450Rbl, students 350Rbl, children under 12 years old 200Rbl. Ti cket remains valid for 1 day and can be bought on the bus. PUN

Egypt on the Neva Like most European Empires, the tsarist Russian empire was in love with monumental and exotic Egyptian symbolism. The most famous sphinxes in St. Petersburg are the city’s only original pair. Situated on nab.

sightseeing Peterswalk - Walking, Bicycle and Boat Tours E-3, tel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www.peterswalk.com. A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in some extremely  informative and downright friendly guides makes going on a Peter’s Walking Tour one of the best choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides are extremely informative about architecture and history, as well as modern Russian society and with th eir ‘alternative’ routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist traps and reveal the real city. By the end of your tour you feel inspired and educated. They also have bicycle tours and new canal boat tours: enjoy the view of Saint  Petersburg sitting on a brand new comfortable boat with an open deck at the back an d a sun-roof inside area in the front. And you can bring your own drinks in here! For more information and full timetable check out the website. Q Original walking  tour daily 10:30 (Vladimirsky pr. 1); bicycle tour Sat, San 11:00. Sptn!k C-2, Birzhevaya liniya 16 (VO), MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 418 35 11, ww w.sptnik.com. Those who want to get down and really meet the locals rather than  just sweatily bumping into th em in metro carriages and late night clubs should check out the ambitious new tourist guide service offered by sptn!k. It‘s a simple scheme whereby local volunteers take visitors into the best parts of their daily  life; whether it be hidden Soviet-era cafes, roof top vistas, communal apartments, flea markets, artist studios, student  dorms or quirky courtyards, every tour is unique, insightful and enlightening. Envisaged as a cross-cultural project they  aim to give tourists a slice of real life and show them their   favourite parts of th e city which touri sts might n ever get to see, whilst also giving th eir foreign guests the chance to meet  and get to know real citizens of St. Petersburg. To see what  their previous walking tours have been like check out their  blog blog.sptnik.com and to get on in a tour yourself head to their official website sptnik.com. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Guided tours in English up to 1,200Rbl. Some free tours are also available. Groups up to 15 people. AUW

Universitetskaya 7 (C-2, MVasileovstrovskaya)

you’ll find two, 32 ton beasts carved from Aswan granite, which were brought here from Egypt in 1832. Hieroglyphs on the side of the monuments link them to Pharaoh Amunhotep of Thebes (1417 – 1379 BC) who was ‘The builder of monuments rising to the sk y’. Further down the Neva on Nab. Robespyera (E-2, MChernyshevskaya)you’ll find ‘Russia’s dark prince of the underground’ (formally known as Mikhail Shemyakin) monuments to the politically repressed. Inspired by their Egyptian brothers downstream, but situated opposite the Kresty prison where for centuries Russian political prison ers were held, these black beasts are half mythical feline creature and half emaciated ghoulish monsters.

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Russian orthodoxy has always been closely associated with pilgrimages and the worshiping of icons and holy  relics. Across Russia there are hundreds of sites where the faithful come hoping for miracles and religious solitude. St. Petersburg of course is also no stranger to the phenomenon and hosts its own number of pilgrimage sites dedicated to locally interred saints.

Artillery Museum D-2, PS, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. If  weapons are your thing, then you‘ll enjoy having a l ook around this stockpile of old Russian and foreign military vehicles, dif ferent pieces of artiller y, as well as artillery armaments and ammunition, rifles, military-engineering military-engineering equipment, banners, military uni forms and insignia numbering more that 850,000 items. The Museum also h olds impressive collections of  military related paintings, drawings and sculptures. Outside, big tanks and rocket-launchers are reminders of the military  might of the former Soviet Union. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of th e month. Admission 150300Rbl. Guided tours in English for groups (2 - 30 people) 1,250-5,700Rbl per group by prior arrangement. U Central Naval Museum C-2, Birzhevaya pl. 4, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 25 02, www.navalmuseum.ru. Located in the former stock-exchange building, this

museum shows the history of the Russian and Soviet Navy,  from the time of Peter the Great until the present. Its exhibits include uniforms, flags and even a submarine complete with loadedtorpedoes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 60 - 400Rbl. Photography 60Rbl, video 100Rbl.

valmuseum.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of 

Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by  the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet  Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in  fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for for yourself! Q Open 10:30 - 16:00. Closed M on, Fri.

Arctic and Antarctic Museum D-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum.ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-convertedmuseum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor  is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. Though the sign s are in Russian, the museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation simulation of the northern li ghts. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl. St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Saints of Petersburg

Cruiser Avrora E-2, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.na-

Military Museums

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Suvorov Memorial Museum E-3, Ul. Kirochnaya 43, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www.suvorovmuseum.ru. Although this museum takes

the name of Suvorov, the great war general of Empress Catherine the Great, it actually covers much more than the military accomplishments of one man. Th ere are comparative history displays of war and battle of the 18th century all over Europe, the deeds of Napoleon and the uniforms and regalia of the time. Did you know that i t was only after the news that Suvorov died that Napoleon decided to invade Russia? The building itself is also worth seeing, built in 1904 following a decree from Nicholas II in a grand style to accentuate what is Russia‘s first memorial museum. To  facilita te better underst anding of the museu m, we recommend taking a guide as they add that extra knowledge which prevents this from being just another visit around some glass covered exhibits. QOpen , Mon, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed. Closed first Monday  in month. Admission 20-250Rbl. 20-250Rbl. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

furtHer Afield Outside Petersburg  Weather aside, you are in the midst of a city with easy access to charming and tranquil places for you to roam and explore. Take a stroll outside city chaos and let your imagination be inspired by the dream-like surroundings. Gatchina 45km south of St. Petersburg, Palace: Krasnoarmeisky pr. 1, tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92. It may have the austere look of a military institution, but inside you can see that the Gatchina Palace was home to the Romanov family, although the rooms are not so luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The palace has various temporary and permanent  exhibitions including a weaponry display and th e church at the top of Gatchina‘s main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But the big attraction is the underground tunnel running from the palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchina‘s palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration work is still in progress. The nice leafy park is a great place to stretch your legs! Q Park open 24hrs. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon and the first Tue of the month. Admission to the park i s free. Tours of the park: 10-380Rbl (palace tour  included). Palace admission: 50-220Rbl. Moskovskaya metro, take bus N431  GETTING THERE: From Moskovskaya or marshrutka K18; or from Baltiisky station, take a train to Gatchina station, which is also (confusingly) called Baltiisky.

Kronshtadt, www.nash-kronshtadt.ru. The strategic naval base of Kronshtadt was founded on Kotlin island in 1704. Kronshtadt is famous because, in 1921, its battalion mutinied against the Bolshevik‘s harsh revolutionary policies. The government‘s response was to slaughter almost the entire battalion. During Soviet times, the city was closed. It  opened in 1996, and, today, it‘s a interesting place to wander and look at rusting warships, naval symbols and other  remains of Soviet naval glory. Krohnstadt‘s striking Byzantin e cathedral has an museum of naval and local history, although it‘s only in Russian. GETTING THERE: From Chernaya Rechka metro, take marshrutka 405, 406, from Staraya Derevnya metro, take bus 101, from Pr. Prosveshcheniya metro, take marshrutka 407. Waterbuses leave from nab. Arsenalnaya at the pier in front  of Finlandsky station, last boat leaves Kronshtadt at 17:30.

3, tel. (+7) 812 438 53 50, www.konstantinpalace. ru. Once known as Putin‘s Palace, this palace is now one of 

the official Presidential residences. The Palace as also the venue for the G8 meeting in 2006. Historically speaking, the Palace‘s original owners were the Romanov‘s, however after  the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. disrepair. Nowadays, the public can enjoy the immaculate and tidy lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting  rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display  of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building). Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Call before you visit the palace, to make sure it‘s not closed for an official function. You must show your  passport when you en ter. Admission Admission 450-650Rbl, only on a  pre-booked tour (tel. (+7) 812 438 53 60). GETTING THERE: from Prospekt Veteranov

metro, take marshrutka 392, 343, 850 or any marshrutka labelled Petrodvoretz and alight at Strelna. From Avtovo metro take marshrutka 300, 424, 424-а. Alternatively take an electri chka

 from Baltiiskaya Station to Strelna.

Pavlovsk, tel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words

to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27 kilometers from the big city, it   feels like a world world away. The small small town hosts the fascinating  Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths s cattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent  neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country  residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but  much less touristy, Pavlovsk is great place to get a way from it  all. Q Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Park open daily. Admission to park 80-150Rbl. Admission to palace 300-500Rbl. GETTING THERE: From Kupchino metro station marshrutka 286, 545; from Moskovskaya Moskovskaya metro station take marshrutka 299; from Vitebsky station or metro station Kupchino (last  stop of blue line) take a lo cal train to Pavlovsk station (journey  time 35minutes) which is just next to the entrance to the Pavlovsk park.

eostrovskaya

Alexander Nevsky Alexander Nevsky, Russia’s great medieval hero who has lent his name to St. Petersburg’s main thoroughfare, as well as a brand of local beer, was canonised in 1547, almost 300 years after he died. His greatest claim to  fame was in defeating the invading Catholic German and Swedish armies and making peace with the G olden Horde and thus bringing stability and prosperity to ancient  Rus. Nevsky died in 1263 and in 1380 (in response to a vision on the eve of a great battle) his grave was dug  up and his remains were found completely intact and incorrupted inside.His relics then became highly venerated and when Peter the Great built the first monastery  in St. Petersburg, he had Nevsky’s holy remains moved there. To this day Nevsky’s remains lie in the Alexander  Nevskogo cemetery alongside a massive 95 other saints and martyrs. St. Alexander Nevsky’s feast days are celebrated on August 30 and November 23. Alexander Nevskogo Cemetery, Pl. Alexander Nevskogo, MPl. Alexandra Nevskogo

St. John of Krohnstadt Also known as the Wonder-Working Father John Sergiev of Krohnstadt, St. John was canonised officially by the Russian Orthodox Church in 1990, some 80 years after  his death. Until he was canonised he was already venerated by the many faithful who remembered him as a man of miracles and incredible kindnes s. He dedicated his life to charitable works and to teaching the local children of  the impoverished and squalid Kronstadt island in the mid and late 19th Century, where he worked as a local priest. After he died he was buried in the Convent of St. John in the centre of St. Petersburg and even throughou t  Soviet times, faithful pilgrims came to leave flowers at  the crypt where he is interred. St.John’s feast days are celebrated on December 20 and October 19. Ioannovsky Convent, nab. reky Karpovky 45,

MPetrogradskaya

October - November 2012

Pushkin/Tsarskoe Pushkin/T sarskoe Selo 24km south of St. Petersburg. Tsarskoye selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to

one of St. Petersburg‘s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries Tsarskoye Selo or the Royal Village was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Al exander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin‘s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with unusual monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine‘s Palace to the quieter  Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary  school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied. Q Catherine‘s Palace open 10:00 - 17:00 (for individuals 12:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 17:00). Closed Tue and last Mon of  the month. Catherine Park open 07:00 - 21:00. Catherine Palace admission 280-550Rbl (includes Amber Room), park  admission free. GETTING THERE: From Vitebsky station, take a train to Detskoe Selo station, from th ere you can walk to Catherine‘s palace (20 min) or take bus N371 or N382. The Alexander  Palace is around a 10 minute walk from the Catherine Palace along Dvortsovaya ulitsa. From Moskovskaya metro station, take marshrutka N286, 287, 342, 347, 545.

Oranienbaum/LomonosovGrand Palace: Dvortsovy pr. 48, Lomonosov, tel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, peterhofmuseum. ru. Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn‘t so popular among tourists,

however it is a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, One of Peter the Great‘s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her  holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov‘s Grand Palace hasn‘t  changed a great deal over the centuries and it‘s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasn‘t destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov. You can have cheap Russian dinner in a cafe near the administration building , the only place in the park where you can buy some food or drinks. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces 10:30 - 17:00, open only on Sat and Sun. Park admission free. Palace of Peter III 70140Rbl, Stone Audience Chamber 70-140Rbl. GETTING THERE: From Avtovo metro, take bus 200 or  marshrutka 300, 420 (direction Lomonosov, 40min); or from Baltiisky station, take a train bound for Oranienbaum, Kalishe or Krasnoflotsk.

Peterhof Palace and Park, tel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles‘, Peterhof (pronounced Peter  g of of in Russian) is one of Russia‘s number one tourist attractions. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under  the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding  another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point  of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right alon g the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Note that in autumn and winter months the fountains are switched off and boarded up, so you should only come if  you are interested in seeing the palace itself. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the lit tle house were Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to park the upper park is free, lower park (where the grand cascade and the other large fountains are) 400Rbl. Admission Great Palace 200-520Rbl, 200-520Rbl, audioguide 500Rbl. Tour  Tour  booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06. GETTING THERE: From Baltiisky station, take a train to

Peterhof station or bus 350, 351, 352, 356, or marshrutka 404. From metro Avtovo, take marshrutka 224, 300 or 424 and from metro Leninsky pr. take marshrutka 103.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

St. Ksenia Deep inside the Smolensky cemetery on Vasilevsky  ostrov you will find a tiny green church built over the grave of the city’s most revered Saint Ksenia. Widowed at the age of 27, Ksenia gave up all worldly posses sions to spend her life in prayer as a pauper. She was believed to be clairvoyant and soon became famous in the city   for her predictions and miraculous and selfle ss actions. When she died in 1803 and was buried in th e Smolensky  cemetery, every year her grave had to be replaced as pilgrims would come and take the earth away from it, believing it to have healing properties. Eventually the locals decided to build a small church over the grave for  her and ever since the faithful have come here in their  thousands seeking Ksenia’s help. Be warned the church is very small and popular so it can be a bit of an ordeal  for those who suffer from claustropho bia. St. Ksen ia’s  feast day is February 06. Church of St. Ksenia, Smolensky cemetery, MVasil-

furtHer Afield Konstantinovsky Palace Strelna, Beryozovaya al.

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Repino Primorskoe shosse 411, tel. (+7) 812 432 08 34, www.repino.info. Named after the painter Ilya Repin (Russia‘s Rembrandt), Repino is a seaside suburb, where people come for cross-country skiing in winter. Visit the beautiful reconstruction of the wooden house that Repin designed for his family, which is set in pleasant gardens, with small wooden stages and gazebos scattered about  the rugged grounds. The gulf is just across the painter‘s  former residence and makes for some nice con templative strolling. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 30-300Rbl. GETTING THERE: From metro Staraya derevnya take marshrutka 305, from Finlyandsky station train bound for  Roshchino, Vyborg, Zelenogorsk or Kirillovskoe. October - November 2012

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furtHer Afield Outside Petersburg  Weather aside, you are in the midst of a city with easy access to charming and tranquil places for you to roam and explore. Take a stroll outside city chaos and let your imagination be inspired by the dream-like surroundings. Gatchina 45km south of St. Petersburg, Palace: Krasnoarmeisky pr. 1, tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92. It may have the austere look of a military institution, but inside you can see that the Gatchina Palace was home to the Romanov family, although the rooms are not so luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The palace has various temporary and permanent  exhibitions including a weaponry display and th e church at the top of Gatchina‘s main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But the big attraction is the underground tunnel running from the palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchina‘s palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration work is still in progress. The nice leafy park is a great place to stretch your legs! Q Park open 24hrs. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon and the first Tue of the month. Admission to the park i s free. Tours of the park: 10-380Rbl (palace tour  included). Palace admission: 50-220Rbl. Moskovskaya metro, take bus N431  GETTING THERE: From Moskovskaya or marshrutka K18; or from Baltiisky station, take a train to Gatchina station, which is also (confusingly) called Baltiisky.

Kronshtadt, www.nash-kronshtadt.ru. The strategic naval base of Kronshtadt was founded on Kotlin island in 1704. Kronshtadt is famous because, in 1921, its battalion mutinied against the Bolshevik‘s harsh revolutionary policies. The government‘s response was to slaughter almost the entire battalion. During Soviet times, the city was closed. It  opened in 1996, and, today, it‘s a interesting place to wander and look at rusting warships, naval symbols and other  remains of Soviet naval glory. Krohnstadt‘s striking Byzantin e cathedral has an museum of naval and local history, although it‘s only in Russian. GETTING THERE: From Chernaya Rechka metro, take marshrutka 405, 406, from Staraya Derevnya metro, take bus 101, from Pr. Prosveshcheniya metro, take marshrutka 407. Waterbuses leave from nab. Arsenalnaya at the pier in front  of Finlandsky station, last boat leaves Kronshtadt at 17:30.

furtHer Afield Konstantinovsky Palace Strelna, Beryozovaya al. 3, tel. (+7) 812 438 53 50, www.konstantinpalace. ru. Once known as Putin‘s Palace, this palace is now one of 

the official Presidential residences. The Palace as also the venue for the G8 meeting in 2006. Historically speaking, the Palace‘s original owners were the Romanov‘s, however after  the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. disrepair. Nowadays, the public can enjoy the immaculate and tidy lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting  rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display  of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building). Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Call before you visit the palace, to make sure it‘s not closed for an official function. You must show your  passport when you en ter. Admission Admission 450-650Rbl, only on a  pre-booked tour (tel. (+7) 812 438 53 60). GETTING THERE: from Prospekt Veteranov

metro, take marshrutka 392, 343, 850 or any marshrutka labelled Petrodvoretz and alight at Strelna. From Avtovo metro take marshrutka 300, 424, 424-а. Alternatively take an electri chka

 from Baltiiskaya Station to Strelna.

Pavlovsk, tel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words

to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27 kilometers from the big city, it   feels like a world world away. The small small town hosts the fascinating  Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths s cattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent  neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country  residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but  much less touristy, Pavlovsk is great place to get a way from it  all. Q Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Park open daily. Admission to park 80-150Rbl. Admission to palace 300-500Rbl. GETTING THERE: From Kupchino metro station marshrutka 286, 545; from Moskovskaya Moskovskaya metro station take marshrutka 299; from Vitebsky station or metro station Kupchino (last  stop of blue line) take a lo cal train to Pavlovsk station (journey  time 35minutes) which is just next to the entrance to the Pavlovsk park.

Pushkin/Tsarskoe Pushkin/T sarskoe Selo 24km south of St. Petersburg. Tsarskoye selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to

one of St. Petersburg‘s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries Tsarskoye Selo or the Royal Village was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Al exander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin‘s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with unusual monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine‘s Palace to the quieter  Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary  school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied. Q Catherine‘s Palace open 10:00 - 17:00 (for individuals 12:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 17:00). Closed Tue and last Mon of  the month. Catherine Park open 07:00 - 21:00. Catherine Palace admission 280-550Rbl (includes Amber Room), park  admission free. GETTING THERE: From Vitebsky station, take a train to Detskoe Selo station, from th ere you can walk to Catherine‘s palace (20 min) or take bus N371 or N382. The Alexander  Palace is around a 10 minute walk from the Catherine Palace along Dvortsovaya ulitsa. From Moskovskaya metro station, take marshrutka N286, 287, 342, 347, 545.

Oranienbaum/LomonosovGrand Palace: Dvortsovy pr. 48, Lomonosov, tel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, peterhofmuseum. ru. Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn‘t so popular among tourists,

however it is a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, One of Peter the Great‘s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her  holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov‘s Grand Palace hasn‘t  changed a great deal over the centuries and it‘s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasn‘t destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov. You can have cheap Russian dinner in a cafe near the administration building , the only place in the park where you can buy some food or drinks. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces 10:30 - 17:00, open only on Sat and Sun. Park admission free. Palace of Peter III 70140Rbl, Stone Audience Chamber 70-140Rbl. GETTING THERE: From Avtovo metro, take bus 200 or  marshrutka 300, 420 (direction Lomonosov, 40min); or from Baltiisky station, take a train bound for Oranienbaum, Kalishe or Krasnoflotsk.

Peterhof Palace and Park, tel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles‘, Peterhof (pronounced Peter  g of of in Russian) is one of Russia‘s number one tourist attractions. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under  the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding  another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point  of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right alon g the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Note that in autumn and winter months the fountains are switched off and boarded up, so you should only come if  you are interested in seeing the palace itself. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the lit tle house were Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to park the upper park is free, lower park (where the grand cascade and the other large fountains are) 400Rbl. Admission Great Palace 200-520Rbl, 200-520Rbl, audioguide 500Rbl. Tour  Tour  booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06. GETTING THERE: From Baltiisky station, take a train to

Peterhof station or bus 350, 351, 352, 356, or marshrutka 404. From metro Avtovo, take marshrutka 224, 300 or 424 and from metro Leninsky pr. take marshrutka 103.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

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st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Repino Primorskoe shosse 411, tel. (+7) 812 432 08 34, www.repino.info. Named after the painter Ilya Repin (Russia‘s Rembrandt), Repino is a seaside suburb, where people come for cross-country skiing in winter. Visit the beautiful reconstruction of the wooden house that Repin designed for his family, which is set in pleasant gardens, with small wooden stages and gazebos scattered about  the rugged grounds. The gulf is just across the painter‘s  former residence and makes for some nice con templative strolling. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 30-300Rbl. GETTING THERE: From metro Staraya derevnya take marshrutka 305, from Finlyandsky station train bound for  Roshchino, Vyborg, Zelenogorsk or Kirillovskoe.

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

Veliky noVGorod

moscow Russia’s addictive capital is a chaotic mix of th e traditional old and the fabulous new. Most Petersburg residents will probably tell you all kinds of things about h ow much they  hate Moscow, but that’s all just local rivalry, there is in  fact a lot to love. In fac t you may come back wit h new controversial feelings of adoration towards Russia’s bustling  capital. And even if you don’t, well, at least remember that  you haven’t been to the heart of Russia un til you’ve visited Red Square right?

Veliky Novgorod

Where to stay 

Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its h eyday in the Middle Ages, Mosco w, St. Petersburg  and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing  however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding  countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin - which matches Moscow’s in both size and age - there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.

Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2,

Sightseeing  Veliky Novgorod Kremlin The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first  records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside th e Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. I f you are not afraid of  heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra. Ilmen lake It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit  the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on th e banks of the Ilmen lake. There’s also a great  Russian restaurant opposite the museum called Yurievskie Podvorie which does a good line in local specialties such as the mildly alcoholic b everage Sbiten. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get offat the monas tery. The journey shoul d take about 20 minutes. Admission to the Vitoslavitsy museum costs 90-150Rbl, entrance to the monastery is free.

Getting There Buses from St. Petersburg run hourly until around 20:00. The journey takes around 3.5hrs and should cost 350 400Rbl. Buses to Veliky Novgorod leave from the St. Petersburg bus station, nab. Obvodnogo Kanal 36, MObvodnogo Kanal. To To get to the centre of Novgorod from the bus stati on take bus number 3, or alternatively you can walk down prospekt Karl Marksa (it will take about 20 minutes). You can also take an elektrichka  from  from Moskovsky Moskovsky Vokzal. Vokzal. St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

53

Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short  sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town an d just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a lit tle frilly, look far more cared  for than many other similarl y priced hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (49 singles 1,950 - 2,200Rbl, 56 doubles 2,700 - 2,900Rbl, 15 suites 4,500 - 5,000Rbl, 2 Duplex 8,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. Visa support 800Rbl, registration free of charge. HALGKDCW hhh

Eating and drinking  Khoroshye lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you‘ve been to this place you won‘t want to eat anywhere else - it‘s just  streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area wi th open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in an d don‘t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (350Rbl). W Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7) 8162946066, tk-podvorie.ru/en/. tk-podvorie.ru/en/. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hu t, you‘ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten‘ (a hot drink made of various herb s and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAULEGBSW st petersburg inyourpo cket com

Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov – to name but a few - have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led (now named in his honour) is one of  Moscow’s best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.

Fine Dining  With more billionaires per square metre than any other city in the world, it goes without saying there are some truly fabulous places to dine in Moscow. Michelin chefs at the Lotte Hotel, imperial dining on silver platters and mountains of caviar at the Marriott Royal Aurora or Cafe Pushkin, the best sushi thi s side of Tokyo in Aozora or MEGU - You You name it, i t’s here to be ea ten. At the other end of the spectrum Moscow is a magnet for   foreign immigrants and they’ve all brought their outstan ding  home-cooking with them to the dining scene at places such as the Georgian Madame Galife or Beloye Sontse Pustiny.

tel. (+7) 8162 940 910, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod’s only four star hotel is run by the

Park Inn brand and it’s a definite step above the rest. The hotel celebrated 20 years in Novgorod this winter and welcomed in the jubilee with yet more improvements as the hotel is brought up to the bright and colourful Park Inn trademark  look. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park  Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement  is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there’s now also the Night Ar t Club down there too. Access to the large swimming pool and saunas are include d in the price as well as a children’s entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus no. 4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (23 suites 8,500Rbl, 202 Single/double 4,200 - 5,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh

Literature and Theatre

Moscow never sleeps Red Square and the Kremlin St. Basil’s, Lenin’s mausoleum, the famous GUM store and the State History Museum surround the world famous square. You can spend a whole day just exploring the area. Start out in the morning with Lenin’s tomb, get you picture taken in front of  St. Basil’s iconic domes before taking on th e immense State History Museum. Grab some lunch in GUM and browse the designer shops or pick up some posh goodies in t he department store’s gourmet supermarket. The famous Kremlin is an undoubted must for a first time visit to Moscow.

The popular local saying is that ‘Moscow never sleeps’ and by the way people party here it certainly ain’t no lie. Don’t be surprised to find yourself in a club still dancing as the sun rises or enjoying an impromptu live concert a t a local bar at 5am. If  you have the stamina a night out in Moscow is usually one that  is not quickly forgotten and if you are looking for the hippest  clubs in Russia, then look no further than the Red October  Factory area, Moscow’s most jumping area at the weekend.

Enjoy the great outdoors Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park,  for a his toric view try t he rink on Red Square and to enjoy  Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patriarch’s Ponds. Thrill seekers can combine sightseeing with sledging at the Kolomenskoye Park Estate where Russians have been throwing themselves down the snowy slopes for  generations or on Mos cow’s Sparrow Hills where you can get  a panoramic view of the city.

Explore the Soviet Past  It was the Soviets who moved the capital back from St. Petersburg to Moscow and reminders of the city’s communist  past are visible everywhere across the city’s skyline. A huge collection of 20th Century Russian art sheds light on the complexities of the Soviet period at the Tretyakov Gallery  on Krymsky Val and the GULAG Museum offers a sobering  account of the horrors faced by millions in the Soviet prison camps. For monumental architecture architecture and statues h ead to the huge All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs), while nothing can beat the C old War Bunker Tour Tour for a fun and enlightenin g trip into the secrets of the KGB and the Cold War. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Moscow In Your Pocket For a full guide to what to see, do, eat, drink and more in Moscow you can download a full 68-page pdf version of  our Moscow In Your Pocket guide at our website www. moscow.inyourpocket.com , where you can also explore thousands of online listings and recommendations for  how to enjoy your time in the capital.

www.fb.com/MoscowInYourPocket

October - November 2012

55

54

Veliky noVGorod

moscow Russia’s addictive capital is a chaotic mix of th e traditional old and the fabulous new. Most Petersburg residents will probably tell you all kinds of things about h ow much they  hate Moscow, but that’s all just local rivalry, there is in  fact a lot to love. In fac t you may come back wit h new controversial feelings of adoration towards Russia’s bustling  capital. And even if you don’t, well, at least remember that  you haven’t been to the heart of Russia un til you’ve visited Red Square right?

Veliky Novgorod

Where to stay 

Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its h eyday in the Middle Ages, Mosco w, St. Petersburg  and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing  however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding  countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin - which matches Moscow’s in both size and age - there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.

Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2,

Sightseeing  Veliky Novgorod Kremlin The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first  records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside th e Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. I f you are not afraid of  heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra. Ilmen lake It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit  the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on th e banks of the Ilmen lake. There’s also a great  Russian restaurant opposite the museum called Yurievskie Podvorie which does a good line in local specialties such as the mildly alcoholic b everage Sbiten. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get offat the monas tery. The journey shoul d take about 20 minutes. Admission to the Vitoslavitsy museum costs 90-150Rbl, entrance to the monastery is free.

Getting There Buses from St. Petersburg run hourly until around 20:00. The journey takes around 3.5hrs and should cost 350 400Rbl. Buses to Veliky Novgorod leave from the St. Petersburg bus station, nab. Obvodnogo Kanal 36, MObvodnogo Kanal. To To get to the centre of Novgorod from the bus stati on take bus number 3, or alternatively you can walk down prospekt Karl Marksa (it will take about 20 minutes). You can also take an elektrichka  from  from Moskovsky Moskovsky Vokzal. Vokzal. St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

56

Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short  sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town an d just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a lit tle frilly, look far more cared  for than many other similarl y priced hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (49 singles 1,950 - 2,200Rbl, 56 doubles 2,700 - 2,900Rbl, 15 suites 4,500 - 5,000Rbl, 2 Duplex 8,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. Visa support 800Rbl, registration free of charge. HALGKDCW hhh

Eating and drinking  Khoroshye lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you‘ve been to this place you won‘t want to eat anywhere else - it‘s just  streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area wi th open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in an d don‘t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (350Rbl). W Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7) 8162946066, tk-podvorie.ru/en/. tk-podvorie.ru/en/. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hu t, you‘ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten‘ (a hot drink made of various herb s and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAULEGBSW st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Moscow never sleeps Red Square and the Kremlin St. Basil’s, Lenin’s mausoleum, the famous GUM store and the State History Museum surround the world famous square. You can spend a whole day just exploring the area. Start out in the morning with Lenin’s tomb, get you picture taken in front of  St. Basil’s iconic domes before taking on th e immense State History Museum. Grab some lunch in GUM and browse the designer shops or pick up some posh goodies in t he department store’s gourmet supermarket. The famous Kremlin is an undoubted must for a first time visit to Moscow.

Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park,  for a his toric view try t he rink on Red Square and to enjoy  Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patriarch’s Ponds. Thrill seekers can combine sightseeing with sledging at the Kolomenskoye Park Estate where Russians have been throwing themselves down the snowy slopes for  generations or on Mos cow’s Sparrow Hills where you can get  a panoramic view of the city.

Explore the Soviet Past  It was the Soviets who moved the capital back from St. Petersburg to Moscow and reminders of the city’s communist  past are visible everywhere across the city’s skyline. A huge collection of 20th Century Russian art sheds light on the complexities of the Soviet period at the Tretyakov Gallery  on Krymsky Val and the GULAG Museum offers a sobering  account of the horrors faced by millions in the Soviet prison camps. For monumental architecture architecture and statues h ead to the huge All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs), while nothing can beat the C old War Bunker Tour Tour for a fun and enlightenin g trip into the secrets of the KGB and the Cold War. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Moscow Culture and Events

Antiques

Through 14.10 Sunday Joseph Beuys: Call for an alternative 

Akademkniga D-3, Liteiny pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 13 98, ww w.akbook.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. N LaRusse D-3, Ul. Stremyannaya 3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 20 43, www.larusse.ru. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. AL

Luxury Trains Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night an d offers offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your be d and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya)at  00:20 and arrive in M oscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or bo ok online at ww w.megapolis-te.ru is-te.ru

B-3/2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA), Gogolevsky bul. 10, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 231 36 60, www.mmoma.ru. Dedicated to the world famous

modern German artist whose extensive and occasionally  controversial artworks, made him one of the most influential German artists of the 20th Century. Joseph Beuys’ work is intense and though t-provoking. This impressive exhibition exhibition will show off some of his most famous famous installation s brought over  especially from Germany such as The End of the Twentieth Century and Tram St op as well other artworks which the artist used to illustrate his unique thoughts on society. Videos of his most   famous p erformances will also be screened including  How to Explain Pictures  to a Dead Hare  and I Like  America and America  Likes Me . Q Open 12:00

- 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of  the month.

Through 04.11 Sunday Auguste Rodin  Tsaritsyno museum estate, ul. Dolskaya 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. .ru.

Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) was one of the most influential sculptors of the 19th century. His innovative modeling  technique earned him praise as the greatest sculptor since Michelangelo. He created highly expressive sculptures of the human body showing such universal emotions as love, hate and despair. This exhibition uses sculptures made from casts of their originals in France and brings together such famous oeuvres as The Thinker, The Burghers of Calais, Eternal Spring, The kiss, The Age of Bronze, the fragments of a spectacular  Mouvement de Dance and Rodin`s album named Goupil with 137 sketches and drawings by the artist. Q Open 11:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Through 18.11 Sunday Le Corbusier. The secrets of creativity. Be-  tween painting and architecture  C-2, Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, ul. Volkhonka 12,

MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www.

artsmuseum.ru. This multi-faceted exhibition presents the

many talents and ideas of the pioneering architect, designer  and writer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, better known as Le Corbusier. The first part of the exhibit, with the help of his diaries and journals, examines the sources of his inspira tion, particularly travel, painting and sculpture. The second part  looks at Corbusier’s influence on Russian architecture - particularly his collaboration with early Soviet architects. The other sections of the exhibit look at his publishing works and his theories on the use of public space (in particular museums) and include dozens of photographs detailing his later life as well as numerous models of his most famous stru ctures. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Clos ed Mon.

Look out for our full Moscow In Your Pocket  guide to the city or check out our website moscow.inyourpocket.com

 for more information

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

Moscow In Your Pocket For a full guide to what to see, do, eat, drink and more in Moscow you can download a full 68-page pdf version of  our Moscow In Your Pocket guide at our website www. moscow.inyourpocket.com , where you can also explore thousands of online listings and recommendations for  how to enjoy your time in the capital.

www.fb.com/MoscowInYourPocket

October - November 2012

shopping

Comrade Hostel D-2, Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd Floor (go under arch to the left of the playground), MKitay Gorod,

Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow everyday   from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s lit tle excuse for not  making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at  one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

The popular local saying is that ‘Moscow never sleeps’ and by the way people party here it certainly ain’t no lie. Don’t be surprised to find yourself in a club still dancing as the sun rises or enjoying an impromptu live concert a t a local bar at 5am. If  you have the stamina a night out in Moscow is usually one that  is not quickly forgotten and if you are looking for the hippest  clubs in Russia, then look no further than the Red October  Factory area, Moscow’s most jumping area at the weekend.

Enjoy the great outdoors

Hotels

Getting There

Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov – to name but a few - have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led (now named in his honour) is one of  Moscow’s best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.

With more billionaires per square metre than any other city in the world, it goes without saying there are some truly fabulous places to dine in Moscow. Michelin chefs at the Lotte Hotel, imperial dining on silver platters and mountains of caviar at the Marriott Royal Aurora or Cafe Pushkin, the best sushi thi s side of Tokyo in Aozora or MEGU - You You name it, i t’s here to be ea ten. At the other end of the spectrum Moscow is a magnet for   foreign immigrants and they’ve all brought their outstan ding  home-cooking with them to the dining scene at places such as the Georgian Madame Galife or Beloye Sontse Pustiny.

moscow

tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya D-1, Ul. Kalanchevskaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel . (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhh Hotel Ermitage D-2, Durasovsky per.7, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. hhh Ibis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibishotel. com. hhh Lotte Hotel Moscow B-2, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora Hotel C-1, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriott.com/mowdt. hhhhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Hotel B-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 34, M Belorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. hhhh Peking Hotel B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking. ru. hhhh

Literature and Theatre

Fine Dining 

tel. (+7) 8162 940 910, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod’s only four star hotel is run by the

Park Inn brand and it’s a definite step above the rest. The hotel celebrated 20 years in Novgorod this winter and welcomed in the jubilee with yet more improvements as the hotel is brought up to the bright and colourful Park Inn trademark  look. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park  Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement  is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there’s now also the Night Ar t Club down there too. Access to the large swimming pool and saunas are include d in the price as well as a children’s entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus no. 4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (23 suites 8,500Rbl, 202 Single/double 4,200 - 5,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

55

Bookshops Anglia D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 579 82 84, www.anglophile.ru. Anglia has the biggest range of English-language books in the city. There are selections of different works on Russian culture, history, and politics as well. Besides Engli sh, they also have books in  five european languages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A Bukvoed D-3, Ligovsky pr. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Roomy, full of  books and gifts, stationery and the like, there is a cafe in the back which hosts free guitar sessions and poetry readings and where you can hang out and use the wi-fi. They have a sizeable English language section with a host of shoddy  paperbacks to stock up on if you‘re going on a train trip and cultural guides on Russia. Q Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy C/D-2, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. The city‘s favourite bookshop boasts a historic location, three spacious floors of books and a quiet café overlooking Nevsky pr. In halls with highly domed ceilings and brightly tiled floors, the range of  reading material is astonishing. Dom Knig y offers offers a good range of classic and modern non-Russian and translated Russian literature as well as coffee-table coffee-table books and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AKW

Furs Elena Furs D-3, Nevsky pr. 90-92, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 89 01, elena-fur s.ru. Also at Ligovsky  pr. 55/4 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) and ul. Sadovaya 33 (metro Sennaya). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. A Obsession furs D-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 36 25, www.obsessionfurs. ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. A

Gifts and Sou venir venirss Chocolate Museum C-2, Nevsky pr. 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.concord-catering. ru/boutiques/museum. This designer-chocolate bou-

tique, tucked in the basement of the Stroganov palace, has handmade chocolates and chocolate sculptures. Hungry  chocolate-loving capitalists can even take home their very  own chocolate Lenin. Also at Ul. Zhukovskogo 18. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AS

Get your next copy In addition to concierges all over the city (Astoria, Crown Plaza and Corinthia, to name but a few) and restaurants (such as Tandoori Nights, Marchelli’s and King Pong, for  example) you can also pick up the la test copy of this guide in Nevsky Centre. While you’re there shopping, don’t   forget to have a drink with a view at the Moskva rooftop restaurant after a soothing massage from Royal Thai.

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Imperial Porcelain The Russian Imperial Porcelain Factory, known during  Soviet times as the Lomonosov Porcelain factory, was  founded in St. Petersburg by  Empress Elizabeth in 1744 and is one of the oldest  manufacturers in the world of fine porcelain and china. The earliest pieces were produced almost exclusively for nobility and the royal  family, while in later years the factory began to add lower  priced designs for those unable to afford the bespoke exclusive collections. Following the Bolshevik revolution the factory was nationalised and a wide range of new  futuri st ‘ propagan da’ design s wer e pro duced depicting the glories of socialism as well as members of the Soviet elite. In 1949 the factory’s most famous pattern the cobalt net appeared, based on a design which was once used for a dinner set for Catherine the Great. The extremely elegant white design, hand painted with intricate lines made with the blue mineral cobalt and edged with gold, is a now a classic. The Imperial Porcelain Factory store is located at Pr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 560 85 44, www.ipm.ru.

There are also official Imperial Porcelain stores in the city centre at:

Vladimirsky pr. 7 M Vladimirskaya, tel. (812) 713 1513 Nevsky pr. 160, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 717 48 38 Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 32 62

La Petite Opera Gallery C-2, Grand Hotel Europe and Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. La Petite

Opera is one of the oldest galleries of Russian art. Working  directly with the artists they offer extraordinary pieces of   fine art and elegant cra ftsmanship. The galler y‘s collection includes original icon paintings, decorative amber articles, luxurious ornaments and a carefully chosen selection of  original lacquer miniatures meticulously done in both classic and contemporary styles. There are also samples of  traditional steel arms, fine chess and backgammon sets, and contemporary and antique paintings. The decorative pieces are the quality equivalent of what one would find on display at no less an institution than the Hermitage. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Nevsky Souvenir Shop C-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.nevskysouvenir.com.

One stop shopping for reminders of your visit or for all your  loved ones back home, priced to fit any and all budgets. Hand painted matroshkas, chess boards and boxes representing  different different schools of painting - th e icon tradition and the realist  tradition. Faberge style eggs and natural amber necklaces in some stunning designs, along with hand-blown glass figurines and ornaments are contrasted by quirkier i tems like scarves, puppets, magnets, key rings and oven gloves. Clothing i tems include standard t-shirts but they also have some beautiful traditional flowered scarves and embroidered linen peasant  shirts and aprons. The helpful English speaking staff can also help you to book tickets for the theatre and tours. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A October - November 2012

57

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shopping

moscow

Hotels

Moscow Culture and Events

Antiques

Comrade Hostel D-2, Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd Floor (go under arch to the left of the playground), MKitay Gorod,

Through 14.10 Sunday Joseph Beuys: Call for an alternative 

Akademkniga D-3, Liteiny pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 13 98, ww w.akbook.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. N LaRusse D-3, Ul. Stremyannaya 3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 20 43, www.larusse.ru. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. AL

tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya D-1, Ul. Kalanchevskaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel . (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhh Hotel Ermitage D-2, Durasovsky per.7, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. hhh Ibis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibishotel. com. hhh Lotte Hotel Moscow B-2, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora Hotel C-1, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriott.com/mowdt. hhhhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Hotel B-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 34, M Belorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. hhhh Peking Hotel B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking. ru. hhhh

Getting There Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow everyday   from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s lit tle excuse for not  making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at  one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

Luxury Trains Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night an d offers offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your be d and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya)at  00:20 and arrive in M oscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or bo ok online at ww w.megapolis-te.ru is-te.ru

B-3/2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA), Gogolevsky bul. 10, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 231 36 60, www.mmoma.ru. Dedicated to the world famous

modern German artist whose extensive and occasionally  controversial artworks, made him one of the most influential German artists of the 20th Century. Joseph Beuys’ work is intense and though t-provoking. This impressive exhibition exhibition will show off some of his most famous famous installation s brought over  especially from Germany such as The End of the Twentieth Century and Tram St op as well other artworks which the artist used to illustrate his unique thoughts on society. Videos of his most   famous p erformances will also be screened including  How to Explain Pictures  to a Dead Hare  and I Like  America and America  Likes Me . Q Open 12:00

- 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of  the month.

Through 04.11 Sunday Auguste Rodin  Tsaritsyno museum estate, ul. Dolskaya 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. .ru.

Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) was one of the most influential sculptors of the 19th century. His innovative modeling  technique earned him praise as the greatest sculptor since Michelangelo. He created highly expressive sculptures of the human body showing such universal emotions as love, hate and despair. This exhibition uses sculptures made from casts of their originals in France and brings together such famous oeuvres as The Thinker, The Burghers of Calais, Eternal Spring, The kiss, The Age of Bronze, the fragments of a spectacular  Mouvement de Dance and Rodin`s album named Goupil with 137 sketches and drawings by the artist. Q Open 11:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Through 18.11 Sunday Le Corbusier. The secrets of creativity. Be-  tween painting and architecture  C-2, Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, ul. Volkhonka 12,

MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www.

artsmuseum.ru. This multi-faceted exhibition presents the

many talents and ideas of the pioneering architect, designer  and writer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, better known as Le Corbusier. The first part of the exhibit, with the help of his diaries and journals, examines the sources of his inspira tion, particularly travel, painting and sculpture. The second part  looks at Corbusier’s influence on Russian architecture - particularly his collaboration with early Soviet architects. The other sections of the exhibit look at his publishing works and his theories on the use of public space (in particular museums) and include dozens of photographs detailing his later life as well as numerous models of his most famous stru ctures. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Clos ed Mon.

Look out for our full Moscow In Your Pocket  guide to the city or check out our website moscow.inyourpocket.com

 for more information

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

58

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

Bookshops Anglia D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 579 82 84, www.anglophile.ru. Anglia has the biggest range of English-language books in the city. There are selections of different works on Russian culture, history, and politics as well. Besides Engli sh, they also have books in  five european languages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A Bukvoed D-3, Ligovsky pr. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Roomy, full of  books and gifts, stationery and the like, there is a cafe in the back which hosts free guitar sessions and poetry readings and where you can hang out and use the wi-fi. They have a sizeable English language section with a host of shoddy  paperbacks to stock up on if you‘re going on a train trip and cultural guides on Russia. Q Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy C/D-2, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. The city‘s favourite bookshop boasts a historic location, three spacious floors of books and a quiet café overlooking Nevsky pr. In halls with highly domed ceilings and brightly tiled floors, the range of  reading material is astonishing. Dom Knig y offers offers a good range of classic and modern non-Russian and translated Russian literature as well as coffee-table coffee-table books and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AKW

Furs Elena Furs D-3, Nevsky pr. 90-92, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 89 01, elena-fur s.ru. Also at Ligovsky  pr. 55/4 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) and ul. Sadovaya 33 (metro Sennaya). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. A Obsession furs D-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 36 25, www.obsessionfurs. ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. A

Gifts and Sou venir venirss Chocolate Museum C-2, Nevsky pr. 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.concord-catering. ru/boutiques/museum. This designer-chocolate bou-

tique, tucked in the basement of the Stroganov palace, has handmade chocolates and chocolate sculptures. Hungry  chocolate-loving capitalists can even take home their very  own chocolate Lenin. Also at Ul. Zhukovskogo 18. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AS

Get your next copy In addition to concierges all over the city (Astoria, Crown Plaza and Corinthia, to name but a few) and restaurants (such as Tandoori Nights, Marchelli’s and King Pong, for  example) you can also pick up the la test copy of this guide in Nevsky Centre. While you’re there shopping, don’t   forget to have a drink with a view at the Moskva rooftop restaurant after a soothing massage from Royal Thai.

Imperial Porcelain The Russian Imperial Porcelain Factory, known during  Soviet times as the Lomonosov Porcelain factory, was  founded in St. Petersburg by  Empress Elizabeth in 1744 and is one of the oldest  manufacturers in the world of fine porcelain and china. The earliest pieces were produced almost exclusively for nobility and the royal  family, while in later years the factory began to add lower  priced designs for those unable to afford the bespoke exclusive collections. Following the Bolshevik revolution the factory was nationalised and a wide range of new  futuri st ‘ propagan da’ design s wer e pro duced depicting the glories of socialism as well as members of the Soviet elite. In 1949 the factory’s most famous pattern the cobalt net appeared, based on a design which was once used for a dinner set for Catherine the Great. The extremely elegant white design, hand painted with intricate lines made with the blue mineral cobalt and edged with gold, is a now a classic. The Imperial Porcelain Factory store is located at Pr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 560 85 44, www.ipm.ru.

There are also official Imperial Porcelain stores in the city centre at:

Vladimirsky pr. 7 M Vladimirskaya, tel. (812) 713 1513 Nevsky pr. 160, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 717 48 38 Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 32 62

La Petite Opera Gallery C-2, Grand Hotel Europe and Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. La Petite

Opera is one of the oldest galleries of Russian art. Working  directly with the artists they offer extraordinary pieces of   fine art and elegant cra ftsmanship. The galler y‘s collection includes original icon paintings, decorative amber articles, luxurious ornaments and a carefully chosen selection of  original lacquer miniatures meticulously done in both classic and contemporary styles. There are also samples of  traditional steel arms, fine chess and backgammon sets, and contemporary and antique paintings. The decorative pieces are the quality equivalent of what one would find on display at no less an institution than the Hermitage. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Nevsky Souvenir Shop C-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.nevskysouvenir.com.

One stop shopping for reminders of your visit or for all your  loved ones back home, priced to fit any and all budgets. Hand painted matroshkas, chess boards and boxes representing  different different schools of painting - th e icon tradition and the realist  tradition. Faberge style eggs and natural amber necklaces in some stunning designs, along with hand-blown glass figurines and ornaments are contrasted by quirkier i tems like scarves, puppets, magnets, key rings and oven gloves. Clothing i tems include standard t-shirts but they also have some beautiful traditional flowered scarves and embroidered linen peasant  shirts and aprons. The helpful English speaking staff can also help you to book tickets for the theatre and tours. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

expAt

Shopping Russian Souvenirs Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs from the classics Russian doll to quirky Soviet memorabilia. These are some of the more essential things you should consider bringing  home with you: Shapka ushanka. If you want to look as much a tourist  as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you need to get a Russian  fur hat or shapka shapka ushanka with ear flaps. Anything with red stars on earns you double spot-thetourist points. Most  things you will find in the markets are fake fur, if you want  to pay for a real fur hat then head to a fur shop. Matryoshka. That’s those Russian nesting dolls. Anywhere you go you will be spoilt for choice whether you are after the classic simple red and yellow design to something  large and glittery or even a dictators of the world set. Also look out for paint-your-own-matrioshka kits - they make great gifts for kids.

Russian crafts. There are various different different designs an d schools of Russian crafts and a bit of everything is still a realistic wish list. If you don’t have too much souvenir space we recommend you pick up a khokhloma (the red, black and gold shiny wooden stuff) spoon and bowl set, perhaps a gzhel (the blue and white glazed po ttery) tea set, a carved birch bark comb (said to be very good for you hair) and a Russian lacquer box. Platok. These beautiful Russian scarves come in many  different colours and designs and are particularly warm accessories for the winter months. If you are not so keen on the flowers and bright col ours of the classic platok and are willing to fork out a bit more money, Orenburgsky platok  are very fine and delicate silk-like scarves made from the down hair of goats, which usually come in white, grey and muted pastel colours.

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

kovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 718 50 05, add 7413, www.aiesec.ru/spb/. Also in FINEK (State University of 

Pavloposadskie Platki Shop Nevsky pr. 87/2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru.

This is the shop to go to if you are in terested in purchasing a high-quality scarf or shawl. Their design s feature many variavariations of traditional flowered motifs, along with more subdued hounds tooth patterns for the gentlemen or playful animals  for children. Particularly special are some of the silk scarves which can also feature Russian saints, art deco patterns and other atypical styles. All of their products are manufactured in Russia and use all natural materials - wool, cotton and silk. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

Shopping centres

Soviet memorabilia. Those fantastic Soviet public advertising posters can be found in most bookshops or  souvenir stores, while Lenin statues, CCCP hip flasks and  flags are available in almost almost any souvenir stores.

AIESEC A-4, Moskovsky pr. 103, off. 315, MMos-

Onegin has a wide range of superior souvenirs including  a fantastic range of amber, jewellery, crystal, china as well as traditional St. Petesrburg themed paraphernalia. All souvenirs are officially quality certified so you‘re guaranteed that nothing here is some shoddy made-in-China stuff. They  also have modern Russian paintings for sale, etchings and water-colours and will offer you free coffee, tea and snacks. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. 08:00 - 22:00 from 1st May till 15th September. AUL

Souvenirs Fair D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. If you need gifts to cart back  to your friends and family, make sure to stop by this ou tdoor  souvenir market on canal Griboedov behind the Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood. The market‘s specialties include hand-painted matryoshka dolls of all sizes, Soviet memorabilia, cheap fur-hats, beautifully designed chess boards and Mc Lenin t-shirts. Most of th e vendors speak good English, and bargaining is normal practice; in fact, it‘s expected! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. N

Vodka. Good brands include Russky Standart, Beluga, Tsarskaya or the Ukrainian Nemiroff. For something kitsch opt for the Kalashnikov or Matrioshka brands sold in bottles shaped to match their names. Note tha t you are allowed to take only 2 litres of strong alcohol out of the country with you. If you are going to Estonia the amount  allowed is only 1 litre.

Expat Contacts

Onegin Souvenirs & Gallery D-2, Ul. Italyanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www. onegin-gallery.com. Opposite the Russian museum,

Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor D-2, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, ww w.bgd.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TALK Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, www. galeria-spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AK Grand Palace D-2, Nevsky pr. 44 / ul. Italianskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 44, www.grandpalace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALKW Passazh (Passage) D-2, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, ww w.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK PIK Shopping Centre C-3, Ul. Efimova 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 449 20 03, www.tk-pik.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. LKW Sennaya Shopping Centre C-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 24, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

TALK

Stockmann Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, ww w. nevskycentre.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

Supermarkets Arora Spices C-3, Zvenigorodskaya ul. 1, 2d floor, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 911 729 26 97. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Eliseevsky Store D-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Stockmann Delicatessen D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, www.stockmann.ru. QOpen 10:00 23:00. A st petersburg inyourpo cket com

It’s not easy living in Russia as a foreigner, but there is a growing expat network. As the expat community expands, we want to let you know abou t groups you may be interested to join. I f you would like your group to be featured here, please send your contacts to [email protected].

Cultural Centres and Libraries Adelante (Spanish centre) D-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 18 80, www.centroadelante.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. American Corners D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www. amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. British Book Centre B-3, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.ru. www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat  11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.

Economics and Financ es), Moskatelny per. 4, off. 341 (metro Nevsky pr.). Deutsche Runde/Stammtisch, tel. (+7) 921 879 99 62, [email protected]. The German speaking  community, native speakers and Russians, gather together  about once a month for a cosy evening of socialising. Please contact Andreas Bitzi for more information. Dutch Drinking Committee, ww w.nlvpetersburg. w.nlvpetersburg. com. Dutch expatriates gather together to share beer and experiences every last Friday of the month. Belgian citizens welcome too! English Communication Club, tel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, [email protected], www.encc.ru. A community of  English speaking people, both native speakers and Russians, who meet twice a week to socialise, improve their English communication skills, make new friends and simply have a good time. There is also a communication club for children, where your kids can learn or practice English in a joyful creative environment. German-Russian German-Russ ian Exchange D-3, Ligovsky pr. 87, off. 300, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 37 91, obmen.org. International Women‘s Club (IWC), iwcstpete@ gmail.com, www.iwcstpete.com. English speaking net-

work of over 100 women residing in St. Petersburg, diverse social and friendly! There are many interest groups including  painting, cookery and languages and a general meeting is held once a month.

Internationall Schools/Pre-schools Internationa Anglo-American School D-2, Ul. Penkovaya 5, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 89 25, ww w.aas.ru. British kindergarten World of Education D-1, Ul. Ordinarnaya 20, appt. 34, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)

dki.spb.ru.

812 230 16 91.

Estonian Cultural Center B-2, Dekabristov ul. 54, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaani-

German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo-

kirik.ru.

Finnish Institute D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSen-

naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library 

open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais C-2, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura B-2, Teatralnaya pl. 10,

MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it.Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17: 00,

Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00,

closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. The Japan Center C-2, Ul. Marata 69-71, 3d floor,

off. 34N, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 326 25 50, ww w.  jpcenter.spb.ru. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Sat, Sun closed. The Netherlands Institute F-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

57

strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. School from 1st to 8th grades, Kindergarten/ 

pre-school from 3 to 6 years. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) D-3,

Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714

77 74, www.infantschool.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

InterNations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for  expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host  monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at  www.internations.org.

October - November 2012

59

expAt

Shopping

58

Russian Souvenirs Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs from the classics Russian doll to quirky Soviet memorabilia. These are some of the more essential things you should consider bringing  home with you: Shapka ushanka. If you want to look as much a tourist  as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you need to get a Russian  fur hat or shapka shapka ushanka with ear flaps. Anything with red stars on earns you double spot-thetourist points. Most  things you will find in the markets are fake fur, if you want  to pay for a real fur hat then head to a fur shop. Matryoshka. That’s those Russian nesting dolls. Anywhere you go you will be spoilt for choice whether you are after the classic simple red and yellow design to something  large and glittery or even a dictators of the world set. Also look out for paint-your-own-matrioshka kits - they make great gifts for kids.

Russian crafts. There are various different different designs an d schools of Russian crafts and a bit of everything is still a realistic wish list. If you don’t have too much souvenir space we recommend you pick up a khokhloma (the red, black and gold shiny wooden stuff) spoon and bowl set, perhaps a gzhel (the blue and white glazed po ttery) tea set, a carved birch bark comb (said to be very good for you hair) and a Russian lacquer box. Platok. These beautiful Russian scarves come in many  different colours and designs and are particularly warm accessories for the winter months. If you are not so keen on the flowers and bright col ours of the classic platok and are willing to fork out a bit more money, Orenburgsky platok  are very fine and delicate silk-like scarves made from the down hair of goats, which usually come in white, grey and muted pastel colours.

kovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 718 50 05, add 7413, www.aiesec.ru/spb/. Also in FINEK (State University of 

Pavloposadskie Platki Shop Nevsky pr. 87/2, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru.

Shopping centres

Soviet memorabilia. Those fantastic Soviet public advertising posters can be found in most bookshops or  souvenir stores, while Lenin statues, CCCP hip flasks and  flags are available in almost almost any souvenir stores.

AIESEC A-4, Moskovsky pr. 103, off. 315, MMos-

Onegin has a wide range of superior souvenirs including  a fantastic range of amber, jewellery, crystal, china as well as traditional St. Petesrburg themed paraphernalia. All souvenirs are officially quality certified so you‘re guaranteed that nothing here is some shoddy made-in-China stuff. They  also have modern Russian paintings for sale, etchings and water-colours and will offer you free coffee, tea and snacks. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. 08:00 - 22:00 from 1st May till 15th September. AUL

Souvenirs Fair D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. If you need gifts to cart back  to your friends and family, make sure to stop by this ou tdoor  souvenir market on canal Griboedov behind the Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood. The market‘s specialties include hand-painted matryoshka dolls of all sizes, Soviet memorabilia, cheap fur-hats, beautifully designed chess boards and Mc Lenin t-shirts. Most of th e vendors speak good English, and bargaining is normal practice; in fact, it‘s expected! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. N

Vodka. Good brands include Russky Standart, Beluga, Tsarskaya or the Ukrainian Nemiroff. For something kitsch opt for the Kalashnikov or Matrioshka brands sold in bottles shaped to match their names. Note tha t you are allowed to take only 2 litres of strong alcohol out of the country with you. If you are going to Estonia the amount  allowed is only 1 litre.

Expat Contacts

Onegin Souvenirs & Gallery D-2, Ul. Italyanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www. onegin-gallery.com. Opposite the Russian museum,

This is the shop to go to if you are in terested in purchasing a high-quality scarf or shawl. Their design s feature many variavariations of traditional flowered motifs, along with more subdued hounds tooth patterns for the gentlemen or playful animals  for children. Particularly special are some of the silk scarves which can also feature Russian saints, art deco patterns and other atypical styles. All of their products are manufactured in Russia and use all natural materials - wool, cotton and silk. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor D-2, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, ww w.bgd.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TALK Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, www. galeria-spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AK Grand Palace D-2, Nevsky pr. 44 / ul. Italianskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 44, www.grandpalace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALKW Passazh (Passage) D-2, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, ww w.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK PIK Shopping Centre C-3, Ul. Efimova 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 449 20 03, www.tk-pik.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. LKW Sennaya Shopping Centre C-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 24, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

TALK

Stockmann Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, ww w. nevskycentre.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

Supermarkets Arora Spices C-3, Zvenigorodskaya ul. 1, 2d floor, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 911 729 26 97. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Eliseevsky Store D-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Stockmann Delicatessen D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, www.stockmann.ru. QOpen 10:00 23:00. A

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

It’s not easy living in Russia as a foreigner, but there is a growing expat network. As the expat community expands, we want to let you know abou t groups you may be interested to join. I f you would like your group to be featured here, please send your contacts to [email protected].

Cultural Centres and Libraries Adelante (Spanish centre) D-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 18 80, www.centroadelante.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. American Corners D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www. amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. British Book Centre B-3, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.ru. www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat  11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.

Business Directory

Accountants and Consultants Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants) C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23, 3rd floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 00, www.ey.com/ cis. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Institute for Enterprise Issues C-3, Ul. Marata 92A, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,

Sun.

Banks Alfa Bank D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 6/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 44 30/(+7) 800 200 22 32, ww w.alfabank.ru. w.alfabank.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun

11:00 - 17:00. Raiffeisen Bank D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 800 700 91 00, www.raif-

feisen.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Western Union C-2, Nevsky Prospekt 22-24,

MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 80 50, ww w. westernunion.com. Also at Nevsky pr. 8A, 15, 26, 53,

61, 90, 104. Hotline 8 800 200 2232.

Business associations American Chamber of Commerce C- 2, Ul. Yakubovicha 24, business centre Na Novo-Isaakievskoy, left wing, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 16 46, www.amcham.ru/spb. QOpen 09:00

- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for Nor th-Western Russia C-2, Nevsky pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed

Sat, Sun.

Exhibition centers

work of over 100 women residing in St. Petersburg, diverse social and friendly! There are many interest groups including  painting, cookery and languages and a general meeting is held once a month.

Internationall Schools/Pre-schools Internationa Anglo-American School D-2, Ul. Penkovaya 5, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 89 25, ww w.aas.ru. British kindergarten World of Education D-1, Ul. Ordinarnaya 20, appt. 34, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 16 91.

Estonian Cultural Center B-2, Dekabristov ul. 54, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaani-

German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo-

kirik.ru.

Finnish Institute D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSen-

naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library 

open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais C-2, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura B-2, Teatralnaya pl. 10,

MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it.Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17: 00,

Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00,

closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. The Japan Center C-2, Ul. Marata 69-71, 3d floor,

off. 34N, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 326 25 50, ww w.  jpcenter.spb.ru. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Sat, Sun closed. The Netherlands Institute F-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. School from 1st to 8th grades, Kindergarten/ 

pre-school from 3 to 6 years. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) D-3,

Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714

77 74, www.infantschool.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

InterNations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for  expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host  monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at  www.internations.org.

October - November 2012

Religious Services

Banyas, Spas and Pools

Buddhist Temple Primorsky pr. 91, M Staraya

Holiday Club Spa and Wellness (Sokos hotel Palace Bridge) C-2, VO, Birzhevoy per. 2-4, MVas-

Derevnya, tel. (+7) 911 224 68 79, www.dazan.spb.ru.

Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Grand Choral Synagogue of St. PetersburgB-2, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel . (+7) 812 713 81 86, [email protected], www.jewsp.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Open for visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00. On Saturday and Jewish festivals from 10:00 to 13:00 for  prayer only. Lutheran church of Peter and Paul C-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www. petrikirche.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Op en Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Mosque D-2, Kronversky pr. 7, MGorkovskaya, tel. Q

(+7) 812 233 98 19, www.russian-mosques.com.

Q

Open only for services (5 times a day). Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-2, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Daily  services in Russian 08:30, 19:00; Sat 12:00 (Russian), 20:00 (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English), 12:00 (Russian), 13:30 (Polish), 17:00 (French). Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Open 08:30 - 20:00. St. Catherine Church (Anglican) D-2, Ul. Malaya Konyushennaya 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81. QUsual Sunday services, at 11:00 (English). After 

the service, refreshments are provided. Sunday school for  young children. St. Maria Finnish Church D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyush-

enaya 6A, MKan. Griboedova, tel. (+7) 812 315 10 26.

The Sha‘arei Shalom Progressive Jewish

Community D-2, Ul. Michurinskaya 1a, room 21H, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 28 83, www. reformspb.ru. QWeekly Torah Torah study classes in Russian

and English, kids club and J ewish cookery classes as well as various cultural and youth programs. Shabbat Services Friday 19:00. YESOD Jewish Community Home D-1, Ul. Bolshaya Raznochinnaya 25a, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.

spa complexes. Eight saunas, a massive pool with plenty  of spaces for lounging, fresh juices and smoothies from the juice bar and treatments from professional therapists make a visit to the Holiday Club feel like stepping into another supremely relaxing world. Keeping with tradition the have even an ice room for the post sauna roll in the snow. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Royal Thai D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, Nevsky Center, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29/(+7) 911 901

13 13, www.royalthai.ru. The location is unbeatable,

smack in the centre, next to two metro lines and inside the all encompassing Nevsky Centre. It sounds a bit hectic but  that is exactly why Royal Thai is perfectly placed as a retrea t. Soothing dark woods, calming Buddhas and dim lighting great  you as you enter. Treatments from expert masseurs are available from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and scrubs. The focus here is on mind, body and spirit and after one session here you’ll feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe. Gift certi ficates available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PL

Clinics and Hospitals American Medical Clinic and Hospital С-2, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/(+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open

24hrs. PAU Euromed Medical Center F-3, Suvorovsky pr. 60,

MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www. euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTARU MEDEM International Clinic & Hospital D-3, Ul. Marata 6, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 336 33 33, www.medem.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PAU Medi International Clinic D-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

PA Russian-Finnish clinic Scandinavia D-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www. avaclinic.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A Zdorovye lyudi (24-hour pharmacy) D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 19, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 59 20,

Entertainment Centres Bowling Park C-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www. bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Happylon (Galleria Shopping Centre) D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTJAW

Castren & Snellman C-2, Nevsky pr. 22/24, office 18, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 325 80 85, www.castren.fi. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed

Sat, Sun. Mannheimer Swartling D-2, Ul. Malaya Konyush-

Fitness Clubs and Yoga

ennaya 1/3A, Sweden House, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling. se. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Alex Fitness (Nevsky Shopping Centre)D-3, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 777 09 09. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -

22:00. Planet Fitness C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 71 75, www.f itness.ru/eng/. itness.ru/eng/. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PAD Smart Pilates Nab. Kryukova kanala 11, MSennaya

Moving and Storage AAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiyskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 431 99 19, www.aaa-russia.com.

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Pl., tel. (+7) 812 958 12 42, www.smartpilates.ru/en/. Q

st petersburg inyourpo cket com

The Russian Banya

ileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 14, www.clubeasyfit.ru. One of the city‘s most luxurious and famous

zl.ru. Q Open 24hrs.

Lawyers and Notaries

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

off. 300, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 37 91, obmen.org. International Women‘s Club (IWC), iwcstpete@ gmail.com, www.iwcstpete.com. English speaking net-

lifestyle directory

LenExpo trade fair B-1, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 321 26 15, www.lenexpo. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Mikhailovsky Manezh trade fair D-2, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 314 88 59, www. manege.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. SKK trade complex Pr. Gagarina 8, M Park Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 12 11, www.spbckk.ru.

QOpen

Economics and Financ es), Moskatelny per. 4, off. 341 (metro Nevsky pr.). Deutsche Runde/Stammtisch, tel. (+7) 921 879 99 62, [email protected]. The German speaking  community, native speakers and Russians, gather together  about once a month for a cosy evening of socialising. Please contact Andreas Bitzi for more information. Dutch Drinking Committee, ww w.nlvpetersburg. w.nlvpetersburg. com. Dutch expatriates gather together to share beer and experiences every last Friday of the month. Belgian citizens welcome too! English Communication Club, tel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, [email protected], www.encc.ru. A community of  English speaking people, both native speakers and Russians, who meet twice a week to socialise, improve their English communication skills, make new friends and simply have a good time. There is also a communication club for children, where your kids can learn or practice English in a joyful creative environment. German-Russian German-Russ ian Exchange D-3, Ligovsky pr. 87,

dki.spb.ru.

expat

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59

Open: on request  PF

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The banya is the Russian version of the sauna. For  some, it is a social event, to be enjoyed with friends and much drinking. For others, including some of the city’s communal-flat residents who don’t have showers at  home, this is the normal way to wash. For this reason, banyas come in all shapes and sizes. Communal ban yas have large rooms with showers, hot rooms an d places to chill out and get dressed. Banyas usually have male and  female sections, or alternate between men and women’s days. Private banyas are when you get a group of friends together and split the cost of a small banya between you. This can be a lot of fun. Don’t forget to pick up some bir ch leaves, on the way, to beat yourself and your friends with. Degtyarnie Bathhouses E-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 969 53 15, www.

d1a.ru. Heaven. There‘s just no other way to describe

the experience of having a banya here. Tucked away in this seemingly unremarkable building are multiple floors offering offering everythin g one could possibly need for a relaxing  retreat. Men‘s and women‘s wings are complete with a traditional Russian banyas, Turkish steam rooms, rain showers and swimming pools. There are also massage therapists and salon treatments available, as well as cafés offering fresh juices, full meals, herbal teas and adult beverages. The family ro om is an ideal option for a private occasion, with all of the luxury essentials, including a powerful hydro-massage Jacuzzi. VIP rooms are fit   for an emperor or oligarch and can even even be catered by the adjacent and above reproach Italian restaurant, Gusto. And as if the facilities weren‘t enough, th e whole complex has a homely atmosphere with staff and clients alike greeting you like family. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Kazachie bany C-3, Bolshoy Kazachy per. 11, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 07 34, www. kazbani.ru. Kazachie has a common and a private lux

banya for up to 10 people. The whol e place works in the old-school way - nudity only - strictly no underwear alllowed and no-one speaks English, but it is a real Russian experience, especially when the old regulars cover you in honey and start beating th e hell out of you with branches. This is one of the oldest banyas in the city - over 130 years old. You can‘t get any more authentic than that! Q Open 24hrs.

October - November 2012

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lifestyle directory

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60

Business Directory

Accountants and Consultants

Religious Services

Banyas, Spas and Pools

Buddhist Temple Primorsky pr. 91, M Staraya

Holiday Club Spa and Wellness (Sokos hotel Palace Bridge) C-2, VO, Birzhevoy per. 2-4, MVas-

Derevnya, tel. (+7) 911 224 68 79, www.dazan.spb.ru.

Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants) C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23, 3rd floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 00, www.ey.com/ cis. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Institute for Enterprise Issues C-3, Ul. Marata 92A, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,

Sun.

Banks Alfa Bank D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 6/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 44 30/(+7) 800 200 22 32, ww w.alfabank.ru. w.alfabank.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun

11:00 - 17:00. Raiffeisen Bank D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 800 700 91 00, www.raif-

feisen.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Western Union C-2, Nevsky Prospekt 22-24,

MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 80 50, ww w. westernunion.com. Also at Nevsky pr. 8A, 15, 26, 53,

61, 90, 104. Hotline 8 800 200 2232.

Business associations American Chamber of Commerce C- 2, Ul. Yakubovicha 24, business centre Na Novo-Isaakievskoy, left wing, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 16 46, www.amcham.ru/spb. QOpen 09:00

- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for Nor th-Western Russia C-2, Nevsky pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed

Sat, Sun.

Exhibition centers

Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Grand Choral Synagogue of St. PetersburgB-2, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel . (+7) 812 713 81 86, [email protected], www.jewsp.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Open for visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00. On Saturday and Jewish festivals from 10:00 to 13:00 for  prayer only. Lutheran church of Peter and Paul C-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www. petrikirche.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Op en Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Mosque D-2, Kronversky pr. 7, MGorkovskaya, tel. Q

(+7) 812 233 98 19, www.russian-mosques.com.

Q

Open only for services (5 times a day). Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-2, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Daily  services in Russian 08:30, 19:00; Sat 12:00 (Russian), 20:00 (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English), 12:00 (Russian), 13:30 (Polish), 17:00 (French). Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Open 08:30 - 20:00. St. Catherine Church (Anglican) D-2, Ul. Malaya Konyushennaya 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81. QUsual Sunday services, at 11:00 (English). After 

the service, refreshments are provided. Sunday school for  young children. St. Maria Finnish Church D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyush-

enaya 6A, MKan. Griboedova, tel. (+7) 812 315 10 26.

The Sha‘arei Shalom Progressive Jewish

Community D-2, Ul. Michurinskaya 1a, room 21H, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 28 83, www. reformspb.ru. QWeekly Torah Torah study classes in Russian

and English, kids club and J ewish cookery classes as well as various cultural and youth programs. Shabbat Services Friday 19:00. YESOD Jewish Community Home D-1, Ul. Bolshaya Raznochinnaya 25a, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.

LenExpo trade fair B-1, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 321 26 15, www.lenexpo. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Mikhailovsky Manezh trade fair D-2, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 314 88 59, www. manege.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. SKK trade complex Pr. Gagarina 8, M Park Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 12 11, www.spbckk.ru.

Royal Thai D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, Nevsky Center, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29/(+7) 911 901

13 13, www.royalthai.ru. The location is unbeatable,

smack in the centre, next to two metro lines and inside the all encompassing Nevsky Centre. It sounds a bit hectic but  that is exactly why Royal Thai is perfectly placed as a retrea t. Soothing dark woods, calming Buddhas and dim lighting great  you as you enter. Treatments from expert masseurs are available from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and scrubs. The focus here is on mind, body and spirit and after one session here you’ll feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe. Gift certi ficates available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PL

Clinics and Hospitals American Medical Clinic and Hospital С-2, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/(+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open

24hrs. PAU Euromed Medical Center F-3, Suvorovsky pr. 60,

MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www. euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTARU MEDEM International Clinic & Hospital D-3, Ul. Marata 6, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 336 33 33, www.medem.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PAU Medi International Clinic D-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

PA Russian-Finnish clinic Scandinavia D-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www. avaclinic.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A Zdorovye lyudi (24-hour pharmacy) D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 19, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 59 20,

Bowling Park C-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www. bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Happylon (Galleria Shopping Centre) D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTJAW

Sat, Sun. Mannheimer Swartling D-2, Ul. Malaya Konyush-

Fitness Clubs and Yoga

ennaya 1/3A, Sweden House, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling. se. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Alex Fitness (Nevsky Shopping Centre)D-3, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 777 09 09. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -

22:00. Planet Fitness C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 71 75, www.f itness.ru/eng/. itness.ru/eng/. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PAD Smart Pilates Nab. Kryukova kanala 11, MSennaya

Moving and Storage AAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiyskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 431 99 19, www.aaa-russia.com. QOpen

spa complexes. Eight saunas, a massive pool with plenty  of spaces for lounging, fresh juices and smoothies from the juice bar and treatments from professional therapists make a visit to the Holiday Club feel like stepping into another supremely relaxing world. Keeping with tradition the have even an ice room for the post sauna roll in the snow. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Entertainment Centres

Castren & Snellman C-2, Nevsky pr. 22/24, office 18, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 325 80 85, www.castren.fi. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Pl., tel. (+7) 812 958 12 42, www.smartpilates.ru/en/. Q

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

62

st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

The Russian Banya

ileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 14, www.clubeasyfit.ru. One of the city‘s most luxurious and famous

zl.ru. Q Open 24hrs.

Lawyers and Notaries

Open: on request  PF

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The banya is the Russian version of the sauna. For  some, it is a social event, to be enjoyed with friends and much drinking. For others, including some of the city’s communal-flat residents who don’t have showers at  home, this is the normal way to wash. For this reason, banyas come in all shapes and sizes. Communal ban yas have large rooms with showers, hot rooms an d places to chill out and get dressed. Banyas usually have male and  female sections, or alternate between men and women’s days. Private banyas are when you get a group of friends together and split the cost of a small banya between you. This can be a lot of fun. Don’t forget to pick up some bir ch leaves, on the way, to beat yourself and your friends with. Degtyarnie Bathhouses E-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 969 53 15, www.

d1a.ru. Heaven. There‘s just no other way to describe

the experience of having a banya here. Tucked away in this seemingly unremarkable building are multiple floors offering offering everythin g one could possibly need for a relaxing  retreat. Men‘s and women‘s wings are complete with a traditional Russian banyas, Turkish steam rooms, rain showers and swimming pools. There are also massage therapists and salon treatments available, as well as cafés offering fresh juices, full meals, herbal teas and adult beverages. The family ro om is an ideal option for a private occasion, with all of the luxury essentials, including a powerful hydro-massage Jacuzzi. VIP rooms are fit   for an emperor or oligarch and can even even be catered by the adjacent and above reproach Italian restaurant, Gusto. And as if the facilities weren‘t enough, th e whole complex has a homely atmosphere with staff and clients alike greeting you like family. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Kazachie bany C-3, Bolshoy Kazachy per. 11, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 07 34, www. kazbani.ru. Kazachie has a common and a private lux

banya for up to 10 people. The whol e place works in the old-school way - nudity only - strictly no underwear alllowed and no-one speaks English, but it is a real Russian experience, especially when the old regulars cover you in honey and start beating th e hell out of you with branches. This is one of the oldest banyas in the city - over 130 years old. You can‘t get any more authentic than that! Q Open 24hrs.

October - November 2012

metro mAp

map Metro Survival Tips It is admittedly difficult to keep your cool on public transport and particularly in St. Petersburg’s metro where during rush hour (read: all day) your head nestles under the armpit of a beer-drinking man. Nonetheless, it may be possible. possible. A peaceful journey requires accomplishing the virtually unthinkable: getting a seat, albeit squished between some plump babushkas. It is possible with gritted teeth and sharp elbows. If graced with a seat, be careful not to be lulled into the land of  nod by the soothing rocking of the train, and miss your  stop. Alternatively, settle for a spot leaning on the doors (but watch out for those tricky stations where your  makeshift leaning-spot gapes open and plummets you onto the tracks) and take a good book. Holding it up to your face creates a wonderful zone of otherwise elusive personal space. Note than when someone mutters to you, they usually want to know if you’re getting off, and want you to get out the way. And the cardinal rule of  course: whatever you do, don’t stare!

Slippery Streets As the colder weather blows in beware of ice on streets and paths. The ability of Russian women to navigate the icy streets in 6-inch heels may seem like the eighth wonder of the world to most foreigners. But they have had a lot of training. For the rest of us, it is wiser to stick  to comfortable shoes with good grip.

Advertise on this map!

Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65 St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

A smaller version of our broader scale map, this gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink. st petersburg inyourpo cket com

61

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

63

62

metro mAp

map Metro Survival Tips It is admittedly difficult to keep your cool on public transport and particularly in St. Petersburg’s metro where during rush hour (read: all day) your head nestles under the armpit of a beer-drinking man. Nonetheless, it may be possible. possible. A peaceful journey requires accomplishing the virtually unthinkable: getting a seat, albeit squished between some plump babushkas. It is possible with gritted teeth and sharp elbows. If graced with a seat, be careful not to be lulled into the land of  nod by the soothing rocking of the train, and miss your  stop. Alternatively, settle for a spot leaning on the doors (but watch out for those tricky stations where your  makeshift leaning-spot gapes open and plummets you onto the tracks) and take a good book. Holding it up to your face creates a wonderful zone of otherwise elusive personal space. Note than when someone mutters to you, they usually want to know if you’re getting off, and want you to get out the way. And the cardinal rule of  course: whatever you do, don’t stare!

Slippery Streets As the colder weather blows in beware of ice on streets and paths. The ability of Russian women to navigate the icy streets in 6-inch heels may seem like the eighth wonder of the world to most foreigners. But they have had a lot of training. For the rest of us, it is wiser to stick  to comfortable shoes with good grip.

Advertise on this map!

Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65 St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

A smaller version of our broader scale map, this gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink. st_petersburg.inyourpo cket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012

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66

Street regiSter Street Register 1-27-ya liniya B-1/B-2/C-1/C-2 Ak. Pavlova ul. D-1/E-1  Angliskaya nab. C-2 Anglisky pr. pr. B-2 Anton enko per. C-2 Apraksin per. C-3 Aptekarska ya nab. E-1  Aptekarsky pr. E-1  Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Bakunina pr. E-3/E-4 Barochnaya ul. D-1  Baskov per. D-3/E-3 Belinskogo ul. D-3 Beringa ul. B-1  Birzh evoy per. C-2 Bol. Kazachy per. C-3 Bol. Konyushennaya Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Bol. Morskaya ul. C-2 Bol. Moskovskaya ul. D-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya Podyacheskaya ul. C-2 Bol. Pushkarskaya Pushkarskaya ul. D-1  Bol. Sampsonievsky pr. pr. E-2 Bol. Zelenina ul. D-1  Bolsh oy pr.(PS) D-1  Bolshoy pr.(VO) B-1/B-2/C-2 Borovaya ul. C-3/C-4 Botkinskaya ul. E-2 Boits ova per. C-3 Bronnitskaya ul. B-3 Chapaeva ul. E-2 Chaikovskogo ul. D-2/E-2/E-3 Chernigovskaya Chernigovskaya ul. B-4 Chernnyshevsky pr. E-2/E-3 Chernyakovskogo ul. C-4/D-4 Chkalovskaya ul. D-1  Degtyarnaya ul. E-3 Dekabri stov per. C-1  Dekabristov ul. B-2/C-2 Detskaya ul. B-1/B-2 Dostoevsko go ul. C-3/D-3 Dumskaya ul. C-2 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Efimova ul. C-2/C-3 Finlyandsky pr. pr. E-2

Fonarny per. C-2 Fontanky reky nab. B-2/B-3/C-3/D-2/D-3 Fontannaya ul. E-3 Fruktovaya linia C-3 Furshtatska ya ul. E-2/E-3 Gagarinskaya ul. D-2 Galernaya ul. C-2 Glinki ul. B-2 Goncharnaya ul. D-3 Gorokhovaya ul. C-2/C-3 Grafsky per. D-3 Griboedova kan. nab. B-2/C-2/D-2 Inzhenernaya ul. D-2 Italyanskaya ul. D-2 Izmail ovsky pr. B-3 K. Zaslonova ul. C-3 Kadetskaya Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1/D-2 Karavannaya ul. D-2 Kavalergardska ya ul. E-3 Kazanskaya ul. C-2 Kharkovskaya ul. D-4 Kyivskaya ul. B-4 Kirillovska ya ul. E-3 Kirochnaya ul. E-3 Klinsk y pr. B-3 Kolomenskaya Kolomenskaya ul. D-3 Konnogvardeisky Konnogvardeisky bul. C-2 Konnogvardei sky per. C-2 Krasnoarmeiskaya1-12-ya B-3 Krasnogo kursanta ul. D-1  Kremenchugskaya Kremenchugskaya ul. D-4 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Kronverksk y pr. D-2 Kuibysheva ul. D-2/E-2 Lermont ovsky pr. B-2/B-3 Leitenanta Shmidta nab.C-2 nab.C-2 Ligovsky pr. B-4/C-4/C-3/D-3 Litein y pr. D-3/E-2 Lomonosovskaya ul.C-2/C-3 ul.C-2/C-3 Lva Tolstogo ul. D-1/E-2 Makarova nab. C-1/C-2

Mal. Moskovskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Konyushennaya D-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. C-2 Mal. Posadska ya D-2 Mal. Sadovaya D-2 Maly pr. (PS) D-1  Maly pr. (VO) B-1/C-1  Maloy Nevky Nevky reky nab. D-1  Marata ul. D-3 Marsovo pole D-2 Mayakovskogo ul. D-3 Medikov pr. D-1/E-1  Mikhailovskaya Mikhailovskaya ul. D-2 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Mira ul. D-2 Mokhovaya ul. D-2 Moskovsky pr. B-3/C-3 Moiky reky nab.B-2/C-2/D-2 nab.B-2/C-2/D-2 Mozhaiskaya ul. C-3 Mytninskaya ul. E-3 Mytninskaya nab. D-2 Nekrasova ul. D-3/E-3 Nevsky pr. C-2/D-2/D-3/E-4 Obvodnogo kanala nab. B-3/C-3/C -4 Odoevskogo ul. C-1  Pavlogradsky per. per. C-4 Pestelya ul. D-2 Petrogradskaya nab. E-2 Petrogradskaya ul. D-1  Petrovsky pr. C- 1  Pionerskaya ul. D-1  Pirogovskaya nab. E-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-2 Podolskaya ul. B-3/C-3 Podyezdn oy per. C-3 Poltavskaya ul. D-3 Pravdy ul. C-3 Prilukskaya Prilukskaya ul. C-4 Prof. Ivashentsova ul.D-4/E-4 ul.D-4/E-4 Prof. Popova ul. D-1/E-1  Pushkinskaya ul. D-3 Radishcheva ul. E-3 Razyezzhaya ul. D-3 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. B-2 Robespyera nab. E-2 Romenskaya ul. D-4

Rubinshteina ul. D-3 Ruzovskaya ul. C-3 Ryleeva ul. E-3 Sadovaya ul. B-2/C-2 Shpalernayaul. D-2/E-2/E-3 D-2/E-2/E-3 Shvedsk y per. D-2 Smolenky reky nab. B-1/C-1  B-1/C-1  Smolyachkova ul. E-1  Sotsialisticheskaya ul. C-3 Sovetskaya 3-10ya E-3 Sredny pr.(V0) B-1/C- 1/C-2 Stolyarn y per. C-2 Stremyannaya ul. D-3 Suvorovsk y pr. D-3/E-3 Svechnoy per. D-3 Synopskay nab. E-4 Tavrich eskaya ul. E-3 Telezhnaya ul. D-4 Troitsk y pr. B-3 Truda ul. C-2 Tyushina ul. C-3 Universitetskaya Universitetskaya nab. C-2 Ushakovskaya nab. E-1  Vereiskaya ul. C-3 Vilensk y per. E-3 Vladimirsk y pr. D-3 Volynsk y per. D-2 Vosstaniya ul. D-3/E-3 Voznesensk y pr. C-2 Vyazemsky per. D-1  Zagorodn y pr. C-3/D-3 Zakhari evskogo ul. E- 2/E-3 Zhukovskogo ul. D-3 Zodchego Rossi ul. C-3/D-3 Zverinskaya ul. D-2 Abbreviations

Ul. – Ulitsa Pr. – Prospekt  Pl. – Ploshchad Dor. – Doroga Bul. – Bulvar  Al. – Allea Per. – Pereulok  Kan. – Kanal Nab. – Naberezhnaya Bol. – Bolshaya Mal. – Malaya

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Daily Mail “Solid, reliable information on everything from where  to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72  hours in a city.”  The Guardian “You do not even need to pack a guidebook: just pick  up an In Your Pocket when you arrive.”  Simon Calder The Independent & LBC Radio  “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of gui-  debooks.”  The New York Times

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

“Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have  decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concen-  trating on both well-known and more off beat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country   guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.”  updated.”  The Independent “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike  many expensive travel guides, they are written by native  English speakers living in the city they are writing ab out. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about  your destination ra ther than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.”  writers.”  The Irish Times

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Street regiSter Street Register 1-27-ya liniya B-1/B-2/C-1/C-2 Ak. Pavlova ul. D-1/E-1  Angliskaya nab. C-2 Anglisky pr. pr. B-2 Anton enko per. C-2 Apraksin per. C-3 Aptekarska ya nab. E-1  Aptekarsky pr. E-1  Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Bakunina pr. E-3/E-4 Barochnaya ul. D-1  Baskov per. D-3/E-3 Belinskogo ul. D-3 Beringa ul. B-1  Birzh evoy per. C-2 Bol. Kazachy per. C-3 Bol. Konyushennaya Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Bol. Morskaya ul. C-2 Bol. Moskovskaya ul. D-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya Podyacheskaya ul. C-2 Bol. Pushkarskaya Pushkarskaya ul. D-1  Bol. Sampsonievsky pr. pr. E-2 Bol. Zelenina ul. D-1  Bolsh oy pr.(PS) D-1  Bolshoy pr.(VO) B-1/B-2/C-2 Borovaya ul. C-3/C-4 Botkinskaya ul. E-2 Boits ova per. C-3 Bronnitskaya ul. B-3 Chapaeva ul. E-2 Chaikovskogo ul. D-2/E-2/E-3 Chernigovskaya Chernigovskaya ul. B-4 Chernnyshevsky pr. E-2/E-3 Chernyakovskogo ul. C-4/D-4 Chkalovskaya ul. D-1  Degtyarnaya ul. E-3 Dekabri stov per. C-1  Dekabristov ul. B-2/C-2 Detskaya ul. B-1/B-2 Dostoevsko go ul. C-3/D-3 Dumskaya ul. C-2 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Efimova ul. C-2/C-3 Finlyandsky pr. pr. E-2

Fonarny per. C-2 Fontanky reky nab. B-2/B-3/C-3/D-2/D-3 Fontannaya ul. E-3 Fruktovaya linia C-3 Furshtatska ya ul. E-2/E-3 Gagarinskaya ul. D-2 Galernaya ul. C-2 Glinki ul. B-2 Goncharnaya ul. D-3 Gorokhovaya ul. C-2/C-3 Grafsky per. D-3 Griboedova kan. nab. B-2/C-2/D-2 Inzhenernaya ul. D-2 Italyanskaya ul. D-2 Izmail ovsky pr. B-3 K. Zaslonova ul. C-3 Kadetskaya Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1/D-2 Karavannaya ul. D-2 Kavalergardska ya ul. E-3 Kazanskaya ul. C-2 Kharkovskaya ul. D-4 Kyivskaya ul. B-4 Kirillovska ya ul. E-3 Kirochnaya ul. E-3 Klinsk y pr. B-3 Kolomenskaya Kolomenskaya ul. D-3 Konnogvardeisky Konnogvardeisky bul. C-2 Konnogvardei sky per. C-2 Krasnoarmeiskaya1-12-ya B-3 Krasnogo kursanta ul. D-1  Kremenchugskaya Kremenchugskaya ul. D-4 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Kronverksk y pr. D-2 Kuibysheva ul. D-2/E-2 Lermont ovsky pr. B-2/B-3 Leitenanta Shmidta nab.C-2 nab.C-2 Ligovsky pr. B-4/C-4/C-3/D-3 Litein y pr. D-3/E-2 Lomonosovskaya ul.C-2/C-3 ul.C-2/C-3 Lva Tolstogo ul. D-1/E-2 Makarova nab. C-1/C-2

Mal. Moskovskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Konyushennaya D-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. C-2 Mal. Posadska ya D-2 Mal. Sadovaya D-2 Maly pr. (PS) D-1  Maly pr. (VO) B-1/C-1  Maloy Nevky Nevky reky nab. D-1  Marata ul. D-3 Marsovo pole D-2 Mayakovskogo ul. D-3 Medikov pr. D-1/E-1  Mikhailovskaya Mikhailovskaya ul. D-2 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Mira ul. D-2 Mokhovaya ul. D-2 Moskovsky pr. B-3/C-3 Moiky reky nab.B-2/C-2/D-2 nab.B-2/C-2/D-2 Mozhaiskaya ul. C-3 Mytninskaya ul. E-3 Mytninskaya nab. D-2 Nekrasova ul. D-3/E-3 Nevsky pr. C-2/D-2/D-3/E-4 Obvodnogo kanala nab. B-3/C-3/C -4 Odoevskogo ul. C-1  Pavlogradsky per. per. C-4 Pestelya ul. D-2 Petrogradskaya nab. E-2 Petrogradskaya ul. D-1  Petrovsky pr. C- 1  Pionerskaya ul. D-1  Pirogovskaya nab. E-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-2 Podolskaya ul. B-3/C-3 Podyezdn oy per. C-3 Poltavskaya ul. D-3 Pravdy ul. C-3 Prilukskaya Prilukskaya ul. C-4 Prof. Ivashentsova ul.D-4/E-4 ul.D-4/E-4 Prof. Popova ul. D-1/E-1  Pushkinskaya ul. D-3 Radishcheva ul. E-3 Razyezzhaya ul. D-3 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. B-2 Robespyera nab. E-2 Romenskaya ul. D-4

Rubinshteina ul. D-3 Ruzovskaya ul. C-3 Ryleeva ul. E-3 Sadovaya ul. B-2/C-2 Shpalernayaul. D-2/E-2/E-3 D-2/E-2/E-3 Shvedsk y per. D-2 Smolenky reky nab. B-1/C-1  B-1/C-1  Smolyachkova ul. E-1  Sotsialisticheskaya ul. C-3 Sovetskaya 3-10ya E-3 Sredny pr.(V0) B-1/C- 1/C-2 Stolyarn y per. C-2 Stremyannaya ul. D-3 Suvorovsk y pr. D-3/E-3 Svechnoy per. D-3 Synopskay nab. E-4 Tavrich eskaya ul. E-3 Telezhnaya ul. D-4 Troitsk y pr. B-3 Truda ul. C-2 Tyushina ul. C-3 Universitetskaya Universitetskaya nab. C-2 Ushakovskaya nab. E-1  Vereiskaya ul. C-3 Vilensk y per. E-3 Vladimirsk y pr. D-3 Volynsk y per. D-2 Vosstaniya ul. D-3/E-3 Voznesensk y pr. C-2 Vyazemsky per. D-1  Zagorodn y pr. C-3/D-3 Zakhari evskogo ul. E- 2/E-3 Zhukovskogo ul. D-3 Zodchego Rossi ul. C-3/D-3 Zverinskaya ul. D-2 Abbreviations

Ul. – Ulitsa Pr. – Prospekt  Pl. – Ploshchad Dor. – Doroga Bul. – Bulvar  Al. – Allea Per. – Pereulok  Kan. – Kanal Nab. – Naberezhnaya Bol. – Bolshaya Mal. – Malaya

Press Box “Detailed, carefully researched guides.”  guides.” 

Daily Mail “Solid, reliable information on everything from where  to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72  hours in a city.”  The Guardian “You do not even need to pack a guidebook: just pick  up an In Your Pocket when you arrive.”  Simon Calder The Independent & LBC Radio  “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of gui-  debooks.”  The New York Times

St. Petersburg In Your Po cket

“Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have  decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concen-  trating on both well-known and more off beat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country   guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.”  updated.”  The Independent “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike  many expensive travel guides, they are written by native  English speakers living in the city they are writing ab out. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about  your destination ra ther than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.”  writers.”  The Irish Times

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