SMV of Different Garments

1. Formal Shirt – Operation Breakdown with SMV Details 2. Casual Shirt 3. Formal Trouser 4. Casual Trouser 5. Formal Jacket 6. Casual Jackets 7. Womens Top 8. Denim

Operation Breakdown and SAM of the Full Sleeve Formal Men’s Shirt Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2031

Prior to defining SAM of the garment, detailed operation breakdown is made by engineer. Both manual and machine operations are included in the operation list. Then a skilled operator is given to do operations one by one. 5 to 10 samples are studied. All operations are studied by GSD expert for motion analysis. At the same time all operations are videoed for future reference. Calculated SAM of the operations for a Formal Shirt has been shown in the following table. This has been defined by a GSD practitioner of a large size Indian garment export company using GSD software. The following SAM of each individual operation will help to understand how a shirt’s SAM reach up to a certain value. The SAM of the operation may vary according to the changes styling of the shirts, seam length, attachment and work aids used, motion sequence used by the operator and machine type.

Product: Full Sleeve Men’s Formal Shirt. Brand: Arrow Total Garment SAM: 22.32 minutes. Sl. No. 1

Operation List

SAM

Pinning to profile

0.234

2

Run stitch collar

0.219

3

Trim collar

0.285

4

Clip and turn collar

0.223

5

Crease collar

0.381

6

Top stitch collar

0.42

7

Run stitch (R/s) collar band

0.291

8

Crease collar band

0.317

9

Insert collar in neck band

0.799

10

Turn and crease collar

0.452

11

Attach bias piece to cuff

0.874

12

Crease cuff

0.458

13

Hem cuff

0.501

14

R/s cuff

0.565

15

Trim cuff

0.36

16

Turn cuff

0.527

17

Crease cuff bottom

0.566

18

Attach placket to sleeve

0.795

19

Lock and make diamond

1.026

20

Sew pleats (4 no.)

0.389

21

Hem right front

0.494

22

Attach front placket

0.603

23

Crease pocket

0.542

24

Hem pocket mouth

0.28

25

Attach pocket to front

0.861

26

Attach brand label and tack loop

0.589

27

Crease patch pieces

0.236

28

Attach patch piece

0.333

29

Sew pleats

0.278

30

Attach yoke to back

0.475

31

Top stitch back yoke

0.365

32

Join shoulder

0.64

33

Top stitch shoulder

0.656

34

Attach collar

0.535

35

Close collar with size label

1.01

36

Sleeve attach

0.862

37

Top stitch armhole

0.678

38

Top stitch side seam

1.036

39

Attach & close cuff

0.696

40

Top stitch cuff

0.524

41

Hem bottom

0.947

Total SAM

22.322

Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Trouser Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2729 The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for your reference. It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations have been also mentioned in the table.

Trouser

Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Trouser Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2729

The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for your reference. It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations have been also mentioned in the table. Trouser Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name

Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name

Operation Breakdown and SMVs of a Basic Jeans Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 2339 Operation breakdown of a 5 Pocket Basic Jeans is listed in this article. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for your reference. SMVs may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Some of operations are done by automatic machines, like auto pocket hemming (APH), auto pocket attaching (APS) etc. Machines that are used for the operations have been mentioned in third column (M/c type) of the following table. This Operation Breakdown has been taken from a Jeans manufacturing company in Vietnam.

5-Pocket Basic Jeans Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart Sl. no.

Operations

M/C Type

SMV

Back 1

pocket hemming

APH

0.07

2

pocket o/l

3T O/L

0.3

3

pocket creasing

ADPC

0.4

4

pocket attaching

APS

0.74

5

second stitch @ back pocket

SNLS

0.65

6

back yoke attach

FOA

0.41

7

back rise join

FOA

0.24

8

size label attach

SNLS

0.2

coin pocket hemming

APH

0.015

10

coin pocket attach @ jet piece (right)

SNLS

0.2

11

pocket bag attach with jet piece

5T F/L

0.42

12

o/l @ pocket bag

3T O/L

0.68

Front Section

9

13

top stitch @ pocket bag

SNLS

0.4

14

o/l @ zipper fly

4T O/L

0.3

15

o/l front panels @ crotch

3T O/L

0.26

16

zipper attach @ left fly

DNLS

0.32

17

SNLS

0.34

18

left fly attach @ front panel (inseam & top stitch) J-stitch @ left fly

APJ

0.58

19

front pocket mouth hemming

DNFPH

0.3

20

pocket bag stitch to front panel @side & top (wt w/c label@lt.)

SNLS

0.46

21

right fly attach with zipper & crotch join

SNLS

0.25

Assembly

22

loop preparation

3T F/L

0.15

23

main label attach @ waist band, & w/b joining in chain top stitch @ inseam

SNLS

0.3

FOA

0.55

5T O/L

0.65

26

side seam join (attach front & back panels) top stitch @ side seam

SNLS

0.38

27

waist band stitch

WBAM

0.38

28

waist band corners finish

SNLS

0.72

29

loop attach

ABLA

0.65

30

bottom hemming

BHM

0.33

24 25

Total 11.65

Full form of sewing machine name APH - Automatic pocket hemming machine ADPc - Automatic pockect creasin gmachine APc - Auto pocket stitching machine SNLS - Single needle lock stitch FOA - Feed of the arm 3TO/L - 3 thread overlock (overedge)

5TF/L - 5 thread flat lock (cover stitch) 4TO/L - 4 thread over lock 5TO/L - 5 thread over lock DNLS - Double neeedle lock stitch 3TF/L - 3 thread flat lock (cover stitch) APJ - Auto J-stitch making DNFPH - Double needle front pocket hemming WBAM - Waistband attach machine ABLA - Auto loop attach BHM - Bottom hemming machine (Note: Some of the machine names are short form of machine used for the specific operation used by a company. Other companies may name it different way)

Sewing Process Flow Chart for Crew neck T-Shirt Topics: Apparel Production By: Prasanta Sarkar 3241

It is always easier to understand a picture than just description. How to make a T-shirt can be explained many times but students learnt it completely when they see it in the production floor. A process flow chart gives them the logic how operations follow sequence one after another. A sewing process flow chart has been depicted in the following figure to guide learners how a T shirt is being made in a bulk production system. It is assumed that T shirt has neck tape (self bias tape). The process flow is also showing the sequence of operations that is generally being followed. Some factory may have a slightly varied sequence. A crew neck T shirt has six components – Front, Back, Neck rib or Collar, Neck tape and two sleeves. In the figure, on the top four sections of the garment component have been shown. The arrows show the flow of operations and inside the red circles operation sequence number and name of the operations has been written. Figure:Sewing Process flow for T-Shirt

Operation Breakdown, Sewing Thread and SMV Calculation of a Polo Shirt

Calculation of SAM/SMV: Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM. Step 2: Capture cycle time for that operation by stop watch standing beside of the operator. (cycle time: total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation). Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time we get from time study is called cycle time. Basic Time = Cycle Time X Performance rating * Performance rating: Performance rating means at what performance level operator doing the job, considering his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes Step 3: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now we get Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes. OPERATION BREAKDOWN AND SMV

Name of Operation Placket Iron Placket Join Position Mark Placket Join Placket Front Middle Cut Rib Placket Servicing Lower Placket 2 Part Join Lower Placket O/L Lower Placket Join & Top Stitch Nose Tack Back & Front Part Matching Shoulder Joint & Trim Collar Servicing & Mark Collar Tack to Neck Collar Join Collar Piping Collar Top Stitch Placket Close & 1/16 T/S Placket Inner Tack Placket Corner Cut Placket Box Make Cuff Servicing Cuff Join Sleeve Matching Sleeve Join Arm Hole Top Stitch Cuff Opening Tack Sticker Remove+ Body Turn Side Seam Cuff Top Tack Bottom Hem Button Hole Button attach With Mark Label Make & Bottom Security Tack Total Sewing Thread Consumption:

M/C name IRON TABLE 1N2TLS TABLE O/L 1N2TLS 2N4TOL

SMV

Manpower

0.40

2 1 2 1 1 1 1 2

0.30 0.32 0.28 0.25 0.30 0.28

1N2TLS

0.32

1N2TLS TABLE 2N4TOL O/L 1N2TLS 2N4TOL 1N2TFL 1N2TLS 1N2TLS 1N2TLS TABLE 1N2TLS O/L 2N4TOL TABLE 2N4TOL 2N3TFL 1N2TLS TABLE 2N4TOL 1N2TLS 2N3TFL 1N2TB H 1N2TBA

0.35

1N2TLS

0.43

0.30 0.33 0.30 0.40 0.32 0.30 0.60 0.71 0.35 0.25 0.50 0.25 0.40 0.30 0.43 0.45 0.30 0.20 0.50 0.22 0.24 0.25 0.40

11.53

1 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 3 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 44

Sewing thread requirement 3.44 M for machine code 1N2TLS means to Stitch 1 Meter of Seam, 3.44 meter sewing thread is used. Here we need to consider operational allowance 3+3=6 cm (starting point+ ending point) for each operation for Lock Stitch and 3.5+3.5= 7 cm for chain stitch , 5+5=10 cm for Flat lock , 6+6=12 cm for over lock with the length of each operation. Also we need to consider 10-15% wastage on the calculated sewing thread consumption. SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION M/C Name

CODE

Required Thread(M/M) Single Needle Lock Stitch 1N2TLS 3.44 Single Needle 2 Thread Flat Lock 1N2TFL 4.8 Double Needle 3 Thread Flat Lock 2N3TFL 13.2 Double Needle 4 Thread Over lock 2N4TO 19.8 L Without Needle Over lock M/C O/L 0 Button Attach 1N2TB 0.3 A Button Hole 1N2TB 0.95 H Posted by Noor Hossain at 9:12 AM

Sample Operation Breakdown of a Jacket Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 3116

Question: Can I have one sample operation breakdown for a jacket with production layout? ... asked by Aweke Zewdu

Answer: A sample operation breakdown with SAM of each operation has been shown below. In this article, only operation breakdown and operation SMVs are posted. Production layout will be posted in a separate article. Standard time shown in the below chart is determined from Time Study. List of operations and SAM of operations may vary based on style and construction. This Operation breakdown has been sourced from a graduation project report of a NIFT student. This Project was done in Silver Sparks Apparel Limited, Bangalore.

Operation Breakdown and Machine Layout for Bra Manufacturing Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar 1412

Question: Please post an article on operation breakdown & machine layout of a standard bra. I was unable to find anything on the Internet. ... asked by Isuru.

The following operation breakdown of a bra is refer to a particular style. Note that, SAM values of the operations may vary according to the style, seam length, attachment and work aids used and machine type. Prior to use below mentioned SAMs and operation sequence discuss it with your engineers. As per your request I have also attached machine layout of bra making in assembly line. To improve machine utilization few operations are clubbed together.

Operation Breakdown: Bra

OP #

SEWING PROCESS

SAM

MACHINE

1

Join Cups

0.57

SNLS

2

Attach Tape to Cups

0.73

DNLS

3

attach Elastic to side cups

0.44

3SZZ

4

Set support Panels

0.39

SNLS

5

Serge support panels

0.62

3TOL

6

Join support panels, cup and front

1.52

SNLS

7

Attach coverstitch tape to front

0.61

DNLS

8

Join backs to cups

0.55

SNLS

9

Attach coverstitch tape to sides

0.47

DNLS

10

Attach lace and tape to cups

0.76

DNLS

11

Attach elastic to band

0.90

ZZ

12

Attach upper elastic &

0.91

3SZZ

straps 13

Cover support panels edges 0.54

3TOL

14

Attach hooks and eyes to straps

1.39

SNLS

15

Set eye to back

0.36

ZZ

16

Set hook to back

0.50

SNLS

17

Attach trimming to front

0.25

SNLS

18

Trim thread and inspect

1.00

MAN

Total SAM

12.51

Machine Layout for Bra making In the machine layout figure operation numbers and machine name have been mentioned.