Shineray Auto Repair Manual

Contents CHAPTER Ⅰ FINISHED VEHICLE APPLICATION AND MAINTENANCE ........................................................ 5 SECTION Ⅰ MAJOR TECHNICAL PARAMETER ................................................................................................................ 5

Ⅰ. Basic parameter ..................................................................................................................................................... 5 Ⅱ. Structure parameter ............................................................................................................................................... 7 Ⅲ. Other parameters (table 1-6) ................................................................................................................................. 7 SECTION Ⅱ APPLICATION OF FINISHED AUTO AND NOTICES ............................................................................................. 8 I. Elementary Knowledge for Application of New Auto ................................................................................................ 8 1. Inspection for New Auto ........................................................................................................................................... 8 II. Driving of Auto ...................................................................................................................................................... 10 III. Proper use of the fuel, lubricants and fluids ......................................................................................................... 13 IV. Use of the body facilities and accessories ............................................................................................................. 17 SECTION III FULL AUTO MAINTENANCE ........................................................................................................................... 18 I. Maintenance table ................................................................................................................................................... 18 II. Repair and maintenance ........................................................................................................................................ 23 CHAPTER II ENGINE MECHANICAL PART ............................................................................................................ 41 SECTION I OVERALL STRUCTURE OF ENGINE ................................................................................................................... 41 I. Composition of engine............................................................................................................................................. 42 II. Main features of the engine .................................................................................................................................... 43 I. Cleaning and protection .......................................................................................................................................... 43 II. Engine maintenance overview ............................................................................................................................... 44 III. Engine maintenance without disassembly ............................................................................................................ 46

Ⅳ Engine removal ...................................................................................................................................................... 46 SECTION Ⅲ CRANKSHAFT CONNECTING ROD .................................................................................................................. 47 I. Composition ............................................................................................................................................................ 48 II. Common faults diagnosis of crankshaft connecting rod ........................................................................................ 48 III. Maintenance of the crankshaft connection rod ..................................................................................................... 50 SECTION Ⅳ VALVE TRAIN ............................................................................................................................................... 61

Ⅰ. Composition of valve train ................................................................................................................................... 62 Ⅱ. Common fault diagnosis of cam valve train ......................................................................................................... 64 Ⅲ. Maintenance of cam valve train ........................................................................................................................... 65 SECTION Ⅴ LUBRICATING SYSTEM ................................................................................................................................. 71

Ⅰ. Composition of engine’s lubricating system ......................................................................................................... 72 Ⅱ. Common fault diagnosis of lubricating system ..................................................................................................... 73 Ⅲ. Maintenance of lubricating system ....................................................................................................................... 74 Ⅳ. Positive crankcase ventilation system (PCV system) ............................................................................................ 74 SECTION Ⅵ ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM ............................................................................................................................ 75

Ⅰ. Major component of cooling system ..................................................................................................................... 76 Ⅱ. Common fault of cooling system ........................................................................................................................... 77 Ⅲ. Repair and maintenance ....................................................................................................................................... 78

Ⅳ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................... 82 Ⅰ. Composition of starting system............................................................................................................................. 86 Ⅱ. Common fault diagnosis of starting system .......................................................................................................... 87 Ⅲ. Repair and maintenance of starter ....................................................................................................................... 90 SECTION Ⅷ ENGINE ASSEMBLY ....................................................................................................................................... 95

Ⅰ. Assembly of internal parts of engines ................................................................................................................... 96 Ⅱ. Installation method of engines............................................................................................................................ 106 Ⅲ. Check .................................................................................................................................................................. 107 Ⅳ. Engine vacuum test ............................................................................................................................................. 108 Ⅴ. Oil pressure check .............................................................................................................................................. 109 SECTION Ⅸ MAJOR TROUBLES AND TROUBLESHOOTING METHOD OF MECHANICAL ENGINE PARTS ............................... 111 CHAPTER Ⅲ DRIVE SYSTEM ................................................................................................................................... 125 SECTION Ⅰ FIVE SPEED TRANSMISSION ........................................................................................................................ 125

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 125 Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis ................................................................................................................................................... 125 Ⅲ.In-car maintenance.............................................................................................................................................. 129 Ⅳ. Transmission repair ............................................................................................................................................ 134 Ⅴ. Required servicing materials .............................................................................................................................. 152 Ⅵ. Special tools ....................................................................................................................................................... 154 SECTION Ⅱ CLUTCH ..................................................................................................................................................... 155

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 155 Ⅱ. Trouble diagnosis ............................................................................................................................................... 156 Ⅲ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 157 Ⅳ. Parts repair ........................................................................................................................................................ 158 Ⅴ. Servicing materials ............................................................................................................................................. 162 Ⅵ. Special tool ......................................................................................................................................................... 162 SECTION Ⅲ DRIVE SHAFT ............................................................................................................................................. 162

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 162 Ⅱ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 163 Ⅲ. Servicing materials ............................................................................................................................................. 166 Ⅳ. Special tools ....................................................................................................................................................... 167 SECTION Ⅳ DIFFERENTIAL............................................................................................................................................ 167

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 167 Ⅱ. Trouble diagnosis ............................................................................................................................................... 168 Ⅲ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 169 Ⅳ. Disassembly and repair ...................................................................................................................................... 170 Ⅴ. Servicing materials ............................................................................................................................................. 178 Ⅵ. Special tools ....................................................................................................................................................... 179 Ⅳ DRIVE SYSTEM ....................................................................................................................................................... 180 SECTION Ⅰ FRONT SUSPENSION .................................................................................................................................... 180

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 180 Ⅱ. Check and Adjustment ........................................................................................................................................ 182 Ⅲ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 184

Ⅳ.Special tools ........................................................................................................................................................ 194 SECTION Ⅱ REAR SUSPENSION...................................................................................................................................... 195

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 195 Ⅱ. Disassembly and assembly ................................................................................................................................. 196 Ⅲ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 204 Ⅳ. Tightening torque of fastener ............................................................................................................................. 205 SECTION Ⅲ WHEEL AND TIRE........................................................................................................................................ 206

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 206 Ⅱ . Trouble diagnosis .......................................................................................................................................... 208 Ⅲ. Maintenance and slight adjustment .................................................................................................................... 209 Ⅳ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 211 CHAPTER Ⅴ STEERING SYSTEM ........................................................................................................................... 213 SECTION Ⅰ TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS.................................................................................................................................. 213

Ⅰ. Diagnosis of common troubles ........................................................................................................................... 213 Ⅱ. Diagnosis of tire troubles ................................................................................................................................... 218 Ⅲ. Vibration fault diagnosis .................................................................................................................................... 220 SECTION Ⅰ FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT......................................................................................................................... 221

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 221 Ⅱ. Technical requirement of tightening torque ........................................................................................................ 224 SECTION Ⅱ RACK AND PINION ...................................................................................................................................... 224

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 224 Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis ................................................................................................................................................... 225 Ⅲ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 225 Ⅳ. Servicing materials ............................................................................................................................................. 233 Ⅴ. Special tools ....................................................................................................................................................... 234 SECTION 3 STEERING WHEEL AND STEERING COLUMN ................................................................................................... 234

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 234 Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis ................................................................................................................................................... 235 Ⅲ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 235 Ⅳ. Servicing materials ............................................................................................................................................. 240 Ⅴ. Special tool ......................................................................................................................................................... 240 CHAPTER ⅥBRAKING SYSTEM.............................................................................................................................. 241 SECTION Ⅰ SYSTEM COMPOSITION AND OPERATING PRINCIPLE .................................................................................... 241

Ⅰ. Booster assembly ................................................................................................................................................ 241 Ⅱ. Master cylinder assembly ................................................................................................................................... 242 Ⅲ. Load sensing proportioning valve ...................................................................................................................... 243 Ⅳ. Front wheel disc brake ....................................................................................................................................... 244 Ⅴ. Rear drum brake assembly ................................................................................................................................. 245 Ⅵ. Parking braking system ...................................................................................................................................... 246 SECTION Ⅱ FAULT DIAGNOSIS....................................................................................................................................... 247

Ⅰ. Check on brake fluid........................................................................................................................................... 247 Ⅱ. Brake road test ................................................................................................................................................... 247 Ⅲ. Braking system fault diagnosis table .................................................................................................................. 247

SECTION Ⅲ CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT .......................................................................................................................... 252 SECTION Ⅳ IN-CAR MAINTENANCE ............................................................................................................................... 260 SECTION Ⅴ SERVICING MATERIALS, TIGHTENING TORQUE AND SPECIAL TOOLS ............................................................ 289

Ⅰ. Servicing materials ............................................................................................................................................. 289 Ⅱ. Tightening torque ................................................................................................................................................ 289 Ⅲ. Special tools ....................................................................................................................................................... 290 CHAPTER CAR BODY MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................. 291 SECTION Ⅰ STRUCTURE AND MAINTENANCE OF SY1020 FRONT DOOR ........................................................................ 291

Ⅰ. Structure of front door ........................................................................................................................................ 291 Ⅱ. Maintenance of front door .................................................................................................................................. 291 SECTION Ⅱ WINDSCREEN ............................................................................................................................................. 296 SECTION Ⅲ SEAT STRUCTURE AND ITS DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY ........................................................................... 301 SECTION Ⅳ DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF SEAT BELT .............................................................................................. 303 SECTION Ⅴ FRAME SIZE ................................................................................................................................................ 305 CHAPTER Ⅷ AIR CONDITIONING, HEATING, VENTILATION SYSTEM ....................................................... 306 SECTION Ⅰ HEATING AND VENTILATION EQUIPMENT .................................................................................................... 306 1. Composition ......................................................................................................................................................... 306

Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis ................................................................................................................................................... 308 Ⅲ. In-car service ...................................................................................................................................................... 308 SECTION Ⅱ AIR CONDITIONER ...................................................................................................................................... 313

Ⅰ. Composition........................................................................................................................................................ 313 Ⅱ. Assembly of air conditioner parts ....................................................................................................................... 315 Ⅳ. Fault diagnosis ................................................................................................................................................... 319 Ⅴ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 324 Ⅵ. Performance test................................................................................................................................................. 331 CHAPTER Ⅸ ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ..................................................................................................................... 332 SECTION Ⅰ POWER SUPPLY SYSTEM ............................................................................................................................. 332

Ⅰ. General ............................................................................................................................................................... 332 Ⅲ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 341 SECTION Ⅱ CAR BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ................................................................................................................ 351

Ⅰ. General ............................................................................................................................................................... 351 Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis ................................................................................................................................................... 359 Ⅲ. In-car maintenance............................................................................................................................................. 368 Ⅳ. Circuit diagram .................................................................................................................................................. 383

Chapter Ⅰ Finished vehicle application and maintenance Section Ⅰ Major technical parameter Ⅰ. Basic parameter 1. Vehicle basic dimension and mass parameter (Table 1-1) Table 1-1 Vehicle basic dimension (mm) and mass parameter (Kg) Item

Parameter

Model

SY6370

SY6390

SY1020

Overall length

3730

3900

4590/4360

Overall width

1510

1510

1510

1823

1823

1823

Wheel base

2350

2430

2760

Front wheel tread

1300

1300

1300

Rear wheel tread

1310

1310

1310

Front suspension

690

510

690

Rear suspension

690

960

960

Front wheel toe-in

0～5

0～5

0～5

SY6370

SY6390

SY1020

Curb weight

985

1000

890

Fully loaded weight

1610

1650

1820

Overall height (no load)

2. Vehicle service performance parameter (Table 1-2) Table 1-2 Vehicle service performance parameter Item

Parameter SY6370

Type

of

engine Max.

SY6390

SY1020 XC4

XC4F18-T

DL465Q5

XC4F18-T

F18T

speed

(km/h)

DL465Q 5

XC4F18-T

≥105

≥105

≥105

≥105

≥105

≥105

30

30

30

30

30

30

≤50

≤48

≤50

≤50

≤48

Max. gradability (％) 0-90km/h（s） sequential shift

acceleration time (s) Integrated cycling value of

fuel

≤5.5

≤5.5

≤5.5

≤5.5

consumption L/100km Braking distance (m)

≤20 ( when the speed is 50 ㎞/h under full load)

noise emitted by accelerating motor vehicle (dB)

≤74

≤5.5

Ⅱ. Structure parameter 1. Major technical parameter of engine ( table 1-3） Table 1-3 Major parameter of engine Item

Type

Type

XC4F18-T

DL465Q5

four-stroke, water cooling, single

four-stroke,

overhead

overhead camshaft, multi-point electronic

camshaft,

multi-point

water

cooling,

electronic control fuel injection

control fuel injection

Cylinder diameter (mm)

65.5

65.5

Piston travel (mm)

74

74

Displacement (mL)

997

998

compression ratio

9.3：1

9.5﹕1

Rated power /speed

45Kw/5200 r/min

45Kw/5200±50 r/min

Max. torque/speed

78N·m/2800~3200 r/min

85N·m/3500～4000 r/min

Mass (kg)

98

97

Fuel

93# superior nonleaded gasoline

93# or above nonleaded gasoline

Idle speed（r/min）

850  50

800  50

Max./Min speed (r/min)

5300/850  50

5600/800  50

2. Technical parameter of transmission (table 1-4) Table 1-4

Technical parameter of transmission XC4F18-T

DL465Q5

Gear 1

3.652

3.652

Gear 2

1.948

1.947

transmission

Gear 3

1.424

1.423

ratio

Gear 4

1

1

Gear 5

0.795

0.795

Reverse

3.466

3.466

Item

Type

3. Wheel parameter (table 1-5) Table 1-5 Wheel parameter Item

Parameter

Tire size

165/70R13，165/70R14

Front wheel tire pressure (kPa)

(half load and fully load ) 200/240

Rear wheel tire pressure (kPa)

(half load and fully load ) 240/280

Ⅲ. Other parameters (table 1-6)

single

Table 1-6

Volume data Jinbei Haixing

Item

Unit

XC4F18-T

DL465Q5

Engine cooling system

L

5.5

5.5

Engine lubricating system

L

3.5

3.5

Fuel tank

L

40

Transmission lubricating oil

L

1.2

Rear axle lubricating oil

L

1.3

Brake fluid

L

0.36

1.2

Section Ⅱ Application of Finished Auto and Notices I. Elementary Knowledge for Application of New Auto

1. Inspection for New Auto To ensure safe and reliable operation of auto, before putting into use, the new auto shall be conducted the following inspections: (1) Inspect from the outlook on whether the connection and tighten situation between key and crucial parts satisfy requirements, particularly on steering and brake devices such as universal joint sheath, brake bottom plate, brake piping, wheels, steering tension rod sheath, steering sheath and gearbox etc. (2)Inspect whether the specification, type and quantity of all oils and liquids satisfy requirements, including gasoline, oil and cooling fluid, electrolyte, window washer tank, brake fluid, gearbox oils and oils for brake and steering etc., and inspect whether there occurs the situations such as oil spills and leaking in the auto. （3）Inspect the working status of voltage of storage battery, electrical equipment, lamplight, horn, instrument and indicator light, etc. Inspect the installation of fuse wire within driving cab. （4）Inspect whether the type, specification and pattern of wheels satisfy requirements, whether the bolt tightening moment of wheels(100±10N.m)satisfies specified requirements and whether the inflation pressure of each wheel is normal(including spare wheel) as well as the installations of valve core of wheels and wheel cowl. (5) Inspect the connection and tightening status of all spare parts, especially the spare parts such as transmission, steering, brake, suspension and wheel etc. （6）Inspect whether the clutch and free pedal travel satisfy specified value and inspect braking system and free pedal travel of braking, ensuring to remove the air within piping. （7）Inspect external cleanness of auto, including painting, trimming and glass; Inspect internal cleanness of auto, including saddle and internal trimming; Inspect status of windshield washing unit.

(8) Until normal work temperature after starting engine, heating of turbine, observe whether there exist phenomena such as oil spills, gas spills, leaking and leakage of electricity. （9）After putting into gear and starting to move, inspect the work situations of road tests for clutch, gearbox, hand braking, foot braking and steering system. 1) Clutch: whether there occurs clickety-clacking and abnormal noise during operation. 2) Accelerator Pedal: shall be shown the phenomena with flexibility and no loose. 3) Gearbox: free shift, without the phenomena such as out of nimbleness, abnormal noise and out of gear. 4) Speedometer: During driving of auto, the pointer of speedometer shall be without sheering, when the auto speed changes, the pointer runs stably. 5) Steering operational setting: whether the free play of steering wheel is normal, whether the control force is appropriate and whether the automatic return ability could be realized after steering. 6) Foot braking: When braking at the auto speed of 40 km/h, the braking effect can be experienced, no derivation during braking. 7) Hand braking: When lifting the handle of hand braking and when the auto is traveling at low speed 20 km/h, the gearbox will be put into neutral, and the braking effect can be experienced. 8) Air conditioner: operate the buttons to inspect whether all the functions are normal. 9) Judge whether the noise of all parts is normal: during traveling of auto, especially at accelerating and decelerating, please Notice whether there occurs obvious abnormal noise in all parts. 10) Inspect whether the technical materials of tool box and essential tool technology are comprehensive. 2. Running-in of New Auto On account of processing and assembling errors, the frictional resistance of all the motional parts of new auto at the time when it starts operation is much greater than that in normal situations. The running-in effect of initial application period for auto produces enormous impact on service life, reliability of operation, economical efficiency of the auto. Thereupon, the running-in regulations shall be strictly executed when the new auto is put into use. (1) Running-in regulations within 1000km that the auto travels: 1) Driving at full speed is absolutely prohibited. 2) In general, the driving speed is prohibited to excess 65km/h. 3) Driving at high speed within each bumping block shall be avoided. (2) Running-in regulations between driving within 1000km to 15000km: could gradually accelerate to the highest speed or at highest steering driving by permission of the engine. (3) After running-in periods, please Notice: 1) When driving the auto with steering meter, the neighboring bumping block with high speed will be changed into and the permitted highest steering speed of engine within short time is 5500r/min. The permitted highest speed of

each bumping block is: below 20km/h for the bumping block 1; 30km/h for bumping block 2; 50km/h for bumping block 2; 70km/h for bumping block 4; above 80km/h for bumping block 5. 2) Avoid making the engine runs at unnecessary high speed, converting into the bumping blocking with high speed as early as possible brings benefits to saving fuel oil and reducing operation noise. 3) The steering speed of engine during driving is prohibited to be too slow, only when the engine runs strenuously, will the low bumping block be converted into. 4) The speed and revolving speed listed in the specification are only suitable for the engine with normal temperature. When the engine is cold, no matter at neutral or at each bumping block, the engine is prohibited to runs at the highest revolving speed. 5) The new wheels are without best adhesive force at initial application, thus, the new wheels also requires for running-in. During driving with the first 100km, the speed shall be kept slow and the driving methods also shall be cautious. 6) The new braking friction plate also requires for running-in. During driving within the first 200km, it still has no ideal frictional force, during this stage, if the braking effect is a litter bit weak, the pressure of the pedal could be increased appropriately. This situation also applies to changing braking friction plate each time later on.

II. Driving of Auto Correct driving of auto not only could give full play to good technical performance of the auto, but above all could ensure the safety of driving. Therefore, as a driver, the operation of auto maintenance must be conducted well before utilization of vehicles. And during the process of driving, the vehicle shall be used correctly according to different road situations. 1. Inspection and Preparation before Utilization of Auto (1) Inspect fuel oil meter, to judge whether the fuel oil is needed to add. (2) Inspect the oil level, to see whether the imprint of oil scale is within the mark of top and bottom limitation. Any insufficiency, it shall be added promptly. When there occurs stoppage in lubrication system of the auto‘s engine or the mechanical oil alarm lamp is lit up during the operation of engine, the operation of engine shall be stopped immediately and the reasons shall be analyzed to remove promptly. (3) Inspect whether the height of coolant level satisfies requirements, any insufficiency, it shall be added promptly. (4) Inspect whether the braking level satisfies requirements, any insufficiency, it shall be added promptly. (5) Inspect whether the electrolyte level of storage battery satisfies requirements, any insufficiency, the distilled water shall be supplemented. (6) Inspect whether the air pressure of the wheels satisfies requirements and whether the spare wheels are comprehensive. (7) Inspect whether the lamplight, direction indicator light and braking indicator light function well. (8) Inspect whether the front and rear windshield glass are clean, whether the degree of rearview mirrors in and out of the auto is appropriate and whether the wiper functions well.

(9)Whether the seats and belts have been adjusted to the appropriate position; (10)Inspect whether the operation of performance of wheel braking is reliable. (11) Inspect whether the moving of each pedal is flexible, whether the free play is within specified scope, whether the transposition is free and whether there exist jammed phenomena. (12) Inspect whether the tool box is comprehensive and whether a proper amount of melt silk and bulb have been prepared well. (13) During long-distance driving, a proper amount of oils and coolant liquid are still needed to prepare. Crucial Notices for safe driving: (1) The safety belt shall be fastened well before utilization of vehicles each time and the headrest shall be adjusted well according to figure. (2) Be bound to Notice no object could exist to impede the operation of the pedal. (3) No driving when tired. In general, a break shall be taken after driving for two hours. (4) The reaction ability of the drivers will be influenced by alcohol, drugs and medicines. Therefore, driving is prohibited after drinking wine or at absence of mind. The latest research achievements show: when the drivers use mobile communication devices during driving, the descending degree of their reaction ability is even severer than that after drinking wine. Thus, during the process of driving, the mobile communication devices shall be strictly prohibited. (5) In any case, the auto speed shall be suitable for the status of road and traffic. For example, it shall be decelerated at the road with snow and ice, or at wet road or when it is trapped into traffic jam. (6)For the sake of safety of drivers and others, please be sure to obey the traffic rules. 2. Starting engine (1) Manual transmission auto 1) Before start the auto, move the gear selector to the neutral position, and pull the parking brake. 2) When start the auto with the manual transmission, step the clutch pedal to the end, and this needs drive the engine only when engine is working, 3) Open the ignition switch, start the engine, but do not need to step the accelerator pedal. Notice: Once start the engine, release the ignition switch immediately to prevent the starter from operating passively. 4) After starting the engine, it not necessary to park the auto for preheating of the engine, and drive the auto after starting. Notice: Before the temperature of the engine reaches the normal temperature, do not make the engine operate at high speed or step the accelerator pedal to the end. (2) Notices when start the engine: 1) When start the engine in cold condition, because the engine used in this auto is equipped with the continuous

fuel injection device, it can provide the suitable the fuel mixed by the oil and gas in any condition. This starting process is not affected by the external temperature, and do not step the accelerator pedal before start and when start the auto. If the engine is not started immediately, you should turn off the ignition switch and repeat it after about half a minute. 2) If the engine fails to be started, it is possible that the fuse of the electrical or the fuse of the engine control system is fusing. 3. Notice in driving In order to play the technical performances of the vehicle, reduce the fuel consumption, reduce the adverse impacts for the environment by the exhaust gas and noise, you should pay attention to the following matters in driving: (1) Avoid to step the accelerator pedal suddenly, and should step the accelerator by the gentle way, this shall not only reduce the fuel consumption, but also reduce the abnormal wear between the pollution and automobile internal motion. (2) Exchange the shift according to the need to make the auto drive in the economy shift to avoid the engine to operate at the high or low speed. (3) Drive the auto as stable as possible, the operation should be predictable, and the unnecessary acceleration, braking, starting and parking make the fuel consumption increase. Avoid the sharp turns and emergency braking. (4) In the case of traffic jam, turn off the engine. (5) Check the tire pressure regularly, and the lower pressure of the tire may increase the rolling resistance, accelerate the tire wear and make the steel ring deformed. (6) Clean out the unnecessary things in the trunk timely. (7) Use the heating, air conditioner, rear window heating device, headlamp and other ancillary electrical equipments only when necessary. (8) After driving at high speed for a long time, do not turn off the engine immediately, and make the engine operate at the idling speed for two minutes to make the temperature reduce gradually. (9) Before drive the auto for long distance, should check and make the driving preparation according to the safety driving precautions. If you have known this long-distance driving, the oil changing or other maintenance items will be expired, and need to implement these work in advance. Especially, the changing of the brake fluid has the significance for the safety of the vehicle driving. (10) When drive the automotive under full load, the external temperature is too high or too low, the sand is serious, the fuel quality is poor and other conditions, should take some special technical measures, such as: use the lubricants with the viscosity which meets the requirements of the external temperature (select the viscosity grade of the lubricants according to the appropriate external temperature scope), install the air filter with the special efficiency, and the maintenance cycle shall be changed correspondingly. If the engine load is large, the replacement cycle of the lubricant should be shortened. (11) Need to observe all instruments and indicators in driving. In order to facilitate the driver, in addition to the common instruments, increase various indicator warning devices and engine failure diagnosis indicator. They can

reflect the working conditions of all systems accurately, if there is the hidden fault, it shall issue the warning and request the driver to pay attention it immediately to avoid the traffic accidents caused by the serious mechanical failure, and the warning device needed to be paid attention to include: 1) Alarm light of low oil level or pressure; 2) Alarm light of hand-brake system; 3) Alarm light of engine; 4）Alarm light of no power of the engine; (12) When drive the auto in the water, must reduce the speed and operate the auto carefully to prevent that the water is sucked in the engine or wet the electrical equipment and cause the failures. After entering the water, restore the brake performance immediately. When the surface water is more, do not pass through it forced. (13) Do not attempt to change the vehicle as not to affect the normal technical condition of the vehicle and enjoy the quality warranty. (14) Maintain the repair the vehicles according to the regulations of the manufacturer strictly. 4. Proper use of the tractive device There is a tractive hook at the end of the bumper, and it is used to be towed by other vehicles. (1) When tow or be towed, the connect the towline and tow bar. It should be Noticed to avoid the forcible traction or sudden tug, otherwise, it may damage the tow line and happen the danger. (2) Comply with the traffic laws and regulations related to the traction, and the alarm lights of the towing and towed vehicles must be flashing. (3) The driver of the towed auto should pay attention to that the tow line must be kept taut state. (4) The towed auto must be turned on the ignition switch to facilitate the steering gear to rotate freely, and the turn signal, horn, windscreen wiper can work properly. III. Proper use of the fuel, lubricants and fluids 1. Refueling properly The quality of the fuel shall impact on the driving performance of the auto, performance of the engine and the service life, and the fuel additives can improve the above performance, thus it is required to use the high-quality fuel including the additives. If you can not buy the high-quality fuel including the additives, or if the engine occurs the problems, such as difficult starting, unstable idle speed, descend power and other faults, you should add the proper additives in refueling. Pay attention to that the refueling mouth should be located in the small cover surface of the lower side panel Behind the front door, the standard fuel tank capacity is 40L, after unscrewing the fuel tank cap, hang it on the cover, and must use the refueling gun properly in refueling. Description: 1) For safety reasons, do not carry the canned backup fuel to avoid to damage the oil reservoir in accident and the

overflowed gasoline may cause the fire. 2) When carry the fuel with the auto, please be sure to comply with the local traffic and safety regulations. 2. Proper use of engine lubricant The auto has been added the high-quality engine lubricant before leaving the factory, in addition to the particularly cold climate region, it can be as the full-year general-purpose lubricant. The high-quality lubricant is the prerequisite which ensure the engine operation without faults and maintain the long life. Therefore, only use the corresponding high-quality lubricant when add the lubricant or replace the lubricant. (1) Check the lubricant level surface. When the engine is working, the consumption of the lubricant is very normal, and the consumption of the lubricant can reach 0.138L／l000km. Therefore, must check the lubricant level surface regularly, and it is better to check the auto in refueling every time. When check the lubricant level, the auto should be maintained in a horizontal position. After stopping the engine for a few minutes, so that the lubricant can be back to the lubricant tray. And then take out the dipstick wiping by the clean cloth, and insert the dipstick into it to the place, and then take out the dipstick for reading, and the oil level must be between the upper mark

and the lower mark X.

The difference of the maximum oil level and the minimum oil level of the engine is about 1.OL. (2) Make up the engine lubricant. Unscrew the refueling cover on the cylinder head , and use the dipstick to check the oil height after adding the lubricant. Notice: The oil level should not exceed the maximum mark, otherwise the lubricant may be sucked by the crankcase breather. When make up the engine lubricant, do not allow the lubricant to drip on to the high-temperature parts of the engine, otherwise, it may be burning. After making up the lubricant, cover the fueling mouth. Insert the dipstick until it is locked, otherwise the engine may flow out some lubricant in operating. (3) Replace the engine lubricant. The load of the lubricant and the oxidation of the lubricant in working make the nature of the engine lubricant change. Therefore, replacing time of the lubricant depends on the used load and the used time. In the case of using SF Grade engine oil commonly, when the auto drives for 5000km, replace the engine lubricant. If the vehicle is driving in the special road sections or the region with the larger temperature range, you should shorten the driving mileage of replacing the lubricant to ensure the reliable operation and safe driving. Notice: The engine lubricant should not be added other things for mixture. The used lubricant must be processed by the regulations strictly, and prohibit the children from contacting. In any case, do not allow the lubricant flow into the drainage pipeline or the land. 3. Proper use of cooling liquid The cooling system should be checked and maintained regularly. The cooling system has been added the cooling liquid when the auto leaves the factory. The cooling liquid is mixed by ethylene glycol and water at the rate of 5:5, the antifreezing capacity is -35℃, and it has the excellent corrosion resistance performance. In addition, the additives can prevent the system to produce the

scale and improve the boiling point of the cooling liquid. Based on the above excellent performance, the cooling system should use this kind of cooing liquid all year round, and do not add the pure water at any time (especially in the summer or hot regions) so as not to reduce the density of the cooling liquid. In order to ensure the normal function of the cooling liquid, the density of the cooling liquid should not be less than 40% (volume ratio). If need to improve the antifreezing capacity of the cooling liquid, you can increase the ratio of ethylene glycol, but the density of the cooling liquid should not exceed 60% (volume ratio). In the cold region (below -40℃), prepare the cold protection and replace ―-40‖ethylene glycol engine antifreezing liquid. (1) Check the height of the cooling liquid level: the cooling liquid reservoir is located in the front bulkhead. The cooling liquid level must comply with the regulations to meet the work requirements of the cooling system. Therefore, check the level height regularly. In order to check the cooling liquid level correctly, turn off the engine before inspection, and check the engine after stopping operation. The cooling liquid reservoir should be transparent plastic container with the maximum (max or H) and minimum (min or L) mark, and you can check the level without opening the reservoir. Notice: When the engine is in the cold state, the cooling liquid level must be between the maximum and minimum mark, once reaching the hot state, the level may be higher than the maximum mark. Notice: If the cooling liquid is lost abnormally, it indicates that the cooling system may have the leakage fault, at this time, adding the cooling liquid can not resolve the problem completely. Therefore, do not delay and go to the authorized service station to check the cooling system immediately. (2) When add the cooling liquid, turn off the engine, use the both to cover the cooling tank lid after cooling, rotate it by the clockwise, remove the tank lid after reducing the pressure, and add the cooling liquid. Notice: When the engine is in the hot state, the cooling system is still in the high-temperature and high-pressure state, at this time, do not open the tack lid to avoid burn! In the emergency case, if you add the pure water, must add the cooling liquid additives according to the regulations to make the density of the cooling liquid restore to the normal state. If the cooling liquid is consumed substantially, must add the cooling liquid for the engine in the cold state to avoid to damage the engine. When add the cooling liquid, do not make the level exceed the maximum mark of the tank. Because once the engine reaches the hot state, the excessed cooling liquid shall overflow the cooling system by the pressure limiting valve of the tank. After adding the cooling liquid, must tighten the tank cap. Notice: The cooling liquid and the cooling liquid additives are the toxic substances! Thus, the additives must be stored in the original container to prevent the children from contacting it, if must let out the cooling liquid in the system, collect it and store it in the safe area. The released cooling liquid should not be used again, and process the disposal cooling liquid according to the regulations of the environment protection law strictly.

4. Proper use of brake fluid (1) Check the brake liquid level. The brake liquid tank is located on the left side of the front bottom. The brake liquid level should comply with the regulations to meet the work requirements of the brake system. The level should be between the liquid tank maximum (max or H) and minimum (min or L) mark. The brake system of this vehicle is equipped with the friction lining to adjust the gap. Therefore, in the using process, the brake liquid level may be declined slightly, this situation is normal without worry, however, the level is declined or declined below the lowest mark in the short period, it indicates that the brake system is leaked, at this time, you should drive your auto to the authorized service station for maintenance of the brake system. (2) Replace the brake liquid. The brake liquid has the hygroscopicity, and it can absorb the moisture in ambient air in the using process. If the moisture content of the brake liquid is excessive, it may corrode the brake system, and the boiling point of the brake liquid can be reduced significantly, and this shall affect the brake effect and safety, based on the above reasons, replace the brake liquid once a year. Notice: If the brake liquid is used for a long time or frequent braking, the brake system can produce the steam bubbles, and this shall impact the brake effect and driving safety. In order to ensure the brake effect and driving safety, please must use the original brake liquid equipped by the company and used the unused brake fluid. Notice: The brake liquid is the toxic liquid! Therefore, it must be stored in the original sealed container to prevent the children from contacting it! The brake liquid can corrode the paint of the auto body! The treatment of the waste brake liquid is a highly professional work, must use the special tool, therefore it should be replaced by the authorized service station. 5. Proper use of the transmission gear oil In order to ensure the normal work performance of the transmission, please pay attention to filling the gear oil regulated by the manufacturer, if the quality of the gear oil is not proper, it can accelerate the abnormal wear of the gears and impact the use performance of the vehicle. (1) The specification model of the gear unused by the transmission is 85W-90 GL-5 GB13895-1999, in order to maintain the transmission better, please replace the gear oil once a year or traveling 50000km. Notice: After the vehicle is driving at high speed or full load for a long time, if the oil level can not meet the requirements, fuel it or discharge the oil timely (the drain plug is located lower of the bottom of the transmission oil tank ). The transmission oil should be red, if the oil is brown or black, it indicates that it contains the friction materials and a large amount of impurities. If the oil fluid is pink or white, replace it. Under the normal circumstances, replace the transmission gear oil once a year or driving 50000km. If the traveling road surface condition is poor, you should shorten the driving mileage of replacing the transmission gear oil to ensure the reliability and safety of driving.

IV. Use of the body facilities and accessories 1. Opening and closing of the door (1) If you are outside of the car, pull the door handle outward when open the door. Lock or unlock the front two doors by the key, when open the door, the safety lock button is popped up, when lock the door, it will be back to the original position. (2) In the car, all doors (the lock of the front left door must be in the engagement state) can be locked by pressing the safety lock button rod. As long as press the safety lock rod, you can not open the door whether from outside or inside of the car. Notice: Do not press the safety lock button to lock the door when the car is driving. So that the door can be opened from the outside of the car under the emergency circumstances. 2. Close the windows (1) Window lifter. The windows in the car can be opened and closed by hand operating crank of the door. When rotate the glass lifting device handle clockwise from the left side, the glass of the door shall be dropped. Rotate the handle counterclockwise, the glass shall rise; in the right side, it is converse. Notice: some configured middle door window lifter is the Grade 2 window lifter, when the glass of the middle door is dropped to half, need to rotate 1/4～1/2 cycles, and then continue to rotate the glass of all middle doors. 3. Adjustment of the rear view mirror In order ensure the best visual effect at any time, you should adjust the rear view mirror in driving. Adjust the rear view mirror outside of the car manually. The outside rear view mirror should be adjusted to the position where you can see the upside of your car. This position can ensure the maximum field of vision. 4. Use and adjustment of the safety belt A large number of facts prove that the safety belt may provide the very good protection in the accident. Thus, you should wear the safety belt before drive the car. Use of the safety belt rolling wheel safety belt. 1) Three-point inertia. In the normal driving state, the safety belt can be expanded freely according to the need of the passengers, however, the speed of the auto or other factors (such fast pulling or emergency brake) are changed, the safety lockup mechanism shall lock it and maintain a certain tightening force. Notice: Correct use of the safety belt is very important for playing its role. 2) Fasten the safety belt to the pelvic. Pull one end of the lock tongue of the safety belt from the front of the pelvis slowly by hand, insert the lock tongue and connect it to the other side of the lock until hear the sound of loc, and then pull it outside to check whether it is locked really or not. 3) Fasten the safety belt to the shoulder. The safety belt should be across the middle of the shoulder and then be across the chest to close to the body.

5. Adjustment of the seat (1) Forward and backward adjustment of the front seats: in order to ensure the safety, adjust the driving set whether auto is static. The forward and backward adjustment method of the front seat is to pull the rod in the font of the seat to move the seat forward and backward. (2) The adjustment of the seat backrest angle is to toggle the rod next to the backrest by leaning forward of the body. The backrest should not be tilted to the back excessively in driving, otherwise, it may affect the effect of the safety belt. (3) Seat of the rear two rows. The backrest and the cushion of the rear seats of some models are separated, and it has the tilt forward function to increase the volume of the trunk. The method of tilting the backrest: Move the front seat to the appropriate position to prevent from collision with the rear seat. And then pull the plastic rod on the top of the backrest of the rear seat to title the backrest forward. Section III Full auto maintenance I. Maintenance table 1. Maintenance table under the normal condition

Maintenance interval: Determine the interval according to the mileage reading or month, and it subject to the firs arrival.

This table lists the maintenance requirements of the vehicles with the driving mileage of 80,000km, for the vehicle driving more than 80,000km, implement the same maintenance by the same interval. Km (×1，000)

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

Miles (×1，000)

6

12

18

24

30

36

42

48

Month

6

12

18

24

30

36

42

48

1. Engine ︱

-

R

-

J.T

-

J.T

1-2．Camshaft timing belt

Replace it every 100,00km.

l-3．Valve clearance

-

l-4．Engine oil (Grade SF engine oil) and engine oil filter

After first maintenance, replace it every 5000 km or every six months.

l-5．Engine oil (Grade SJ engine oil) and engine oil filter

After first maintenance, replace it every 10000 km or every six months.

1-6．Cooling system hoses and fittings

—

—

R

︱

-

J.T

-

-

l-1．Drive belt

-

J.T

—

︱

—

—

—

︱

J

J

J

R

J

J

J

R

—

—

—

︱

—

—

—

I&(R)

2-1．Crankcase breather and connectors

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

2-2．Crankcase ventilation capacity control valve

—

—

—

︱

—

—

—

︱

2-3．Fuel evaporative exhaust control system

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

—

—

︱

—

—

—

︱

—

R

—

R

—

R

—

R

1-7．Engine cooling liquid l-8 ． Exhaust pipe and installation parts (excluding the exhaust filter) 2. exhaust gas control system

3. Electrical system 3-1．Harness and fittings 4. Ignition system If use the unleaded gasoline. 4-1．Spark plug If use the unleaded gasoline, please refer to the table of Driving Under the Harsh Conditions. 4-3．Ignition system line

—

—

—

︱

—

—

—

R

(︱)

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

—

—

︱

—

—

—

R

J

J

J

R

J

J

J

R

J．T

—

5. Fuel 5-1．Mixture ratio of the engine speed (idling speed) and idling speed 5-2．Fuel tank head 5-3．Air filter element 5-4．Oil filter

Replace it every 10000 km.

5-5．Fuel pipe and fittings/tank

J．T

—

J．T

︱

J．T

︱

Maintenance interval: Determine the interval according to the mileage reading or month, and it subject to the firs arrival.

This table lists the maintenance requirements of the vehicles with the driving mileage of 80,000km, for the vehicle driving more than 80,000km, implement the same maintenance by the same interval. Km (×1，000)

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

Miles (×1，000)

6

12

18

24

30

36

42

48

Month

6

12

18

24

30

36

42

48

Brake disc and pad (front)

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

Brake drum and brake shoe

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

6-2．Brake hoses and pipes

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

6-3．Brake liquid

—

︱

—

R

—

︱

—

R

6-4． Brake pedal

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

6-5．Bbrake lever and link

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

7-1．Clutch

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

7-2．Tire

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

7-3．Wheel roulette

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

7-4．Suspension devices

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

7-5．Drive shaft

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

—

︱

7-6．Manual transmission oil

︱

︱

︱

R

︱

︱

︱

R

7-7．Differential oil

︱

︱

︱

R

︱

︱

︱

R

7-8．Steering system

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

6. Brake

6-1．

7．Chassis and body

7-9．All latches, hinges and locks 7-10．Transmission shift fork and shaft

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

︱

Notice: “R”：Replacement, “J”：Inspection,“T”：Adjustment “︱”：Check and repair, and replace it if necessary. 1-7（R）is only suitable to the discharge device installation rubber parts.

Maintenance recommendations driving under the harsh conditions If the auto is driving under the harsh conditions, it is recommended to perform the special maintenance interval in the following table. 2. Code of harsh conditions A-Repeated short trips B-Driving on the uneven/or slimy road C-Driving on the dusty road D-Driving in the very cold weather conditions and /or on the salt road E-Repeated short trip in the very cold weather conditions F-Full load for long timer or driving on the mountain road

Code of harsh conditions

Maintenance

M ain ten an ce op era tio n

Maintenance interval

Every 20,000km or 12 months ︱ -BC---

Drive belt Every 40,000km or 24 months R

A-CDEF

Engine oil and oil filter

Every 5,000km or 3 months R

AB-D--

Discharge fittings

pipes

and

Every 10,000km or 6 months ︱

Every 2,500km R --C---

Air filter element *1 Every 20,000km or 12 months ︱

ABC-E

Spark plug

Every 10,000km or 6 months R

AB-D--

Drive shaft

Every 10,000km or 6 months ︱

-B--EF-

-B----

Transmission (manual) and differential oil

Every 20,000km or 12 months R

Chassis bolts and nuts

Every 10,000km or 6 months T

Brake disc (front)

and

pad

ABC---

Every lO,000km or 6 months Brake drum and brake shoe (rear)

︱

Notice: “R”：Replacement “︱”：Check and repair, and replace it if necessary. “T”：Tighten it according to the regulated torque. *

1：If the auto is driving on the dusty road, the inspection and replacement should be more frequent.

II. Repair and maintenance 1. Engine Drive belt Warning: Before check and adjust the tension of the belt, disconnect the negative post of the battery. Water pump belt inspection

1. 10kg (22 Ibs) 2. Adjust the bolts

1) Check whether the belt has the cracks, incision, deformation, wear and cleanliness or not. If necessary, replace it. 2) Check the tension of the belt, press the middle of the belt by the force of about 10kg, it shall sink about 7～ 10mm. The belt tension “a”: the subsidence value is 7～10mm. Notice: After replacing the belt, the tension shall be adjusted to: press the middle of the belt by the force of about 10kg, the subsidence value is 5～6mm. Replacement of the water pump belt 1) Disconnect the negative pole of the battery. 2) If equipped with the air conditioning, remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt (refer to the air conditioning compressor drive belt). 3) Replace the water pump belt by the new belt. 4) Adjust the belt tension according to the technical requirements. 5) Connect to the negative pole of the battery. Check the air conditioning compressor drive belt (optional) Check the wear, damage and tension of the belt. If necessary, replace or adjust it in time. Tension of the air conditioning compressor drive belt: When press the middle of the belt by the force about 10kg, the

1. Drive belt 2. Crankshafte pulley 3. Air conditioning compressor

subsidence vaue is 8～11mm. Replacement of the air conditioning compressor drive belt: 1) Disconnect the negative pole of the battery. 2) Release the belt tension, and replace the old belt by the new belt. 3) Adjust the belt tension according to the technical requirements. 4) Connect to the negative pole of the battery. Notice: When replace the new belt, the tension is adjusted to: Press the middle of the belt by the force of 10kg, and the subsidence value is 8～9mm. Camshaft timing belt inspection 1) Remove the hole plug from the belt 2) Use the light and special mirror to check the timing belt wear, cracks, damage, oil and other conditions. If necessary, replace it. 3) Install the inspection hole plug.

1. Crankshaft belt wheel 2. Adjustment of bolts 3. Valve rod 4. Adjust the screw and lock the nuts

1. Crankshaft belt wheel 2. Adjustment of bolts 3. Valve rod 4. Adjust the screw and lock the nuts Valve clearance inspection: 1) Remove the crankcase ventilating horse on the valve mechanism cover.

Engine oil viscosity table

2) Remove the valve mechanism cover. 3) Check the clearance of the intake and exhaust valve, if necessary, adjust it. 4) Install the valve mechanism cover, and tighten the bolts according to the technical requirements. 5) Connect the crankcase ventilating horse. Inspection and adjustment of valve clearance steps refer to Chapter II.

Technical requiremen ts of the valve clearance (clearance ―a‖)

Cold state （ the cooling temperatureis 15～25℃）

Hot state （ the cooling temperature is 60～68℃）

XC4F18-T

DL465Q5

XC4F18-T

DL465Q5

0.15～0.19mm

0.23～0.28mm

0.23～0.28mm

0.15～0.19mm

0.23～0.28mm

0.23～0.28mm

Intake

0.15 0.19mm

～

Exhau st

0.15 0.19mm

～

liquid

Engine oil and engine oil filter Fill the engine oil: If the temperature is more than 15℃ in summer, use SF15W-40, if the temperature is less than 15℃ in winter, use 1. Oil bottom shell SF10W-30, and in winter, the northeast, Inner Mongolia and Xinjiang shall use SF5W-30. 2. Plug of oil discharge Notice: Replace the corresponding engine oil according to the different temperature. Before discharge the engine oil, you should check whether the engine oil is leaked. If it is leaked, please replace the damaged parts before perform the following work. 1) Remove the plug of discharging the oil to discharge the engine oil. 2) After discharging the engine oil, clean the plug of oil discharge. And then install the plug of oil discharge and tighten it according to the following requirements. Tightening torque: (a): 35 N·m 3) Use the engine filter spanner (special tool) to release the oil filter. Special tool (A):09915-47340 4) Smear the engine oil on the ―O‖ ring of the new engine oil filter. 5) Tighten the new engine oil filter on the filter base, until the filter ―O‖ ring contacts with the installation surface. Caution:

1. Oil filter

In order to tighten the engine oil filter appropriately, please pay attention to identifying the accurate position of the filter “o” ring and the installation surface. 6) After contacting with the installation surface, use the engine oil filter spanner twist the filter 3／4 rings. Special tool (A):09915-47340 Pressing torque：(a）：35N·m 7) Fill the engine oil until it reaches the sign of full oil on the dipstick, and the filling hole is located in the tope of the cylinder head. 8) Before check the oil level, start the engine for 3 minutes no load. After stopping, check the oil level after 5 minutes. If necessary, fill the oil, until it reaches the sign of full oil on the dipstick.

1. Sign of low oil level 2. Sign of high oil level

Refer to Section 1 of this chapter – Filling amount of engine oil 9) Check whether the engine filter and the plug of oil discharge are leaked. Cooling system horses and fittings Inspection 1) Visual inspection of the cooling system, check whether the horses of the cooling system have the obvious leaks and cracks, check whether the horses are damaged and check the tension of the pipe clamp. 2) Replace the horses with the leak, cracks and other damages. Replace all pipe clamps without the appropriate tension. 3) Clean the front part of the radiator core. 4) The test pressure of the cooling system and the radiator cover is 108kPa. If necessary, replace the radiator cover designed for the cooling system of this vehicle.

1. 2. 3. 4.

Full liquid level mark Low liquid level mark Tank cover Matching mark

5) Check the cooling liquid level and density. Refer to the inspection steps of Cooling Liquid Level in Section 6 of Chapter II. Engine cooling liquid Warning: When the engine and the radiator are still hot, do not remove the radiator cover to avoid the burn. If you remove the radiator cover immediately, the steam and the hot water shall spray under the pressure. Replacement Model of filled cooling liquid: Fill “No. -20” ethylene glycol engine cooling liquid, in winter, in the regions of northeast, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang and the regions with the temperature less than -20℃, fill “No.

1. Radiator 2. Radiator discharge plug

-4” ethylene glycol engine cooling liquid. 1) When the engine is cooling, remove the radiator cover. 2) Release the radiator discharge plug to discharge the cooling liquid. 3) Remove the liquid tank, and discharge the cooling liquid completely. 4) Tighten the discharge plug, and install the liquid tank. 5) Fill the quantitive cooling liquid for the radiator (refer to Section 6 of Chapter II), exhaust the air in the cooling system, and then make the engine operate for 2-3 minutes at the idle speed, after stopping the operation, fill the cooling liquid until the liquid level reaches the filling mouth of the radiator. Install and tighten the radiator cover. 6) Fill the cooling liquid to the liquid tank, until the liquid level reaches the sign of Full, and then cover the tank head to make the matching signs on the tank and cover aligning. Caution: When replace the engine cooling liquid, and the temperature is less than -16℃ in winter, use the mixture cooling liquid at the ratio of water of 50% and the ethylene glycol of 50%. When the temperature is more than -16℃, use the cooling antifreezing liquid at the ratio of water of 70% and the ethylene glycol of 30%. Even under the condition higher the freezing temperature, for the purpose of anticorrosion and lubrication, use the mixed cooling antifreezing liquid at the ration of water of 70% and ethylene glycol of 30%. Muffler and installation accessories Warning: When the discharging system is still hot, do not contact with it to avoid burn. Any maintenance work of the discharging system shall be performed after cooling. Inspection When implement the regular maintenance or repairs according to the following steps, you should check the discharging system. ·Check whether the rubber installation parts are damaged and worn. ·Check whether the discharging system is leaked, the connector is loosened, has the impression and damages or not. If the bots or the nuts are loosened, tighten them according to the technical requirements. Refer to Chapter II. Check whether there are the damaged, poor matching or misplaced components, or the slotting, hole, loosened joints which may lead the discharged smoke to penetrate the vehicle or other damages. ·Ensure the sufficient clearance between the discharge system components and bottom plate of the body to avoid that the overheating may damage the floor carpet. ·If all parts are damaged, please repair it immediately.

2. Exhaust pollution control system Crankcase breather horses and fittings Inspection ·Check whether the crankcase breather has the leaks and cracks, if it is damaged, you should repair or replace it, check and ensure that the horse joints are fastened. Crankcase ventilating volume control valve

1. Crankcase ventilating volume control valve

1) Disconnect the crankcase ventilating volume control valve on the valve mechanism cover, and then use the plug to plug the hole on the valve mechanism cover. 2) Operate the engine by the idling speed.

3) Put the hand on the end of the crankcase ventilating volume control valve, and check whether it is vacuum. If it is not vacuum, check whether the valve is blocked or not. If necessary, replace it. 4) After checking the vacuum, stop to operate the engine, and remove the crankcase ventilating volume control valve. Shake this valve, listen whether there is the click sound, if there is the click sound, and replace this valve. 5) After inspection, remove the plug. And install the crankcase ventilating volume control valve. Fuel evaporative pollution discharge control system 1) Check whether the horse is damaged, cracked or excessive bending by visual. Check whether all pipe clamps are damaged and positioned properly or not. 2) In case of any damage, repair or replace it. 3) Check the evaporator, and refer to Section 6 of Chapter II. (Inspection procedures of evaporator) 3. Electrical system Harness and fittings Inspection 1. Pressure resistance 2. Cover ·Check al wires of the engine components are damaged or not visually. Check the insulation (cracks) conditions, and all wire clips should be fastened. ·Replace all damaged or poor harness. 4. Ignition system Spark plug Replacement

1) Remove the dust on the cylinder head around the spark plug. 2 ) Disconnect the high-pressure damping line on the spark plug. Pay attention to pulling the protective shield of the high-pressure damping line. 3) Use the spark plug wrench to loosen the spark plug and remove the spark plug. 4) Re-install the new spark plug. Notice: Ensure to use the new spark plug with the regulated heating degree and si ze. 5) Tighten the spark plug by the regulated torque. Tightening torque: 25～28N·m（465） 6) Connect to the spark plug high-pressure damping line, do not push the high-voltage line in connecting, and you can only push the protection cover. Ignition system circuit (high resistance cable) Inspection Check whether the high resistance cable has the cracks or joints, the resistance data and the measurement procedure should refer to Section 7 of Chapter III. If it is damaged and the resistance value does not meet the requirements, replace it. Notice: Check and ensure that each high resistance cable terminal and joint have been fastened, and they have been inserted in the corresponding components. Must replace all burned-out joints. 1) Disconnect the high resistance cable and ignition coil. 2) Connect to the new high resistance cable and clamp it by the clip firmly. Do not push the high resistance cable joint in connecting, and you should push the protective boot. Ignition timing Inspection

1. Air filter shell cover 2. Clamp

Inspection: Use the failure decoding to check it in the idling speed, and ensure whether the setting of the ignition timing is appropriate. If it does not meet the technical requirements, check the corresponding components or electrical control system. 5. Fuel The fuel is 93﹟ high-quality unleaded gasoline used by the auto. Engine idling speed and idling speed mixture Inspection

Check the idling speed by the engine speed or special instrument, and use the special instrument to check the ration of the air and fuel.

Fuel tank cover Inspection Check the fuel pad by visual, if it is damaged, replace it timely. Caution:

1. Fuel filling port cover 2. Pad

Replace the new fuel tank cover by the same specification, otherwise, it shall cause poor work.

Replacement of the air filter element Check and replace the air filter element regularly. Notice: Replace it in the dusty conditions frequently.

Replace the air filter element according to the procedures of Section 5 of Chapter III. Inspection and cleaning 1) Check whether the air filter is too dirty, damaged or has the oil by visual, if there are the above situations, please replace the air filter timely. 2) Use the compressed air to clean the element by the exhaust hole of the filter element. Notice: If the auto is driving on the dusty road, clean or replace it every 2,500km.

Fuel pump filter

1. Fuel pump 5. Drain valve 2. Fuel pump filter 6. Dual way check valve 3. Fuel filter 7. Fuel shut-off valve 4. Fuel ruler 8. Fuel pump assemblies

Fuel flow direction

Replacement warning: Must replace the fuel filter in the ventilating area, and be away from the source of fire. The fuel filter is located in the fuel tank, including the fuel pump assemblies. Clean or replace the fuel pump filter regularly.

Fuel pipe and fittings/tank Inspection Check whether the fuel tank, fuel pipe and joints have the leaks, horse cracks, damages or not, and ensure fasten all pipe clamps. If the fittings are leaked, repair them. If the horse is cracked, replace it.

6. Brake

Brake disc and pad (front) Inspection 1) Remove the wheel and calipers, but do not remove the brake horse from the caliper. 2) Check whether the disc brake pad and the brake disc have the excessive wear, damages, if necessary, replace it. Refer to Chapter VII. The tightening torque of the caliper pin bolt should meet the technical requirements.

Notice: When step the brake pedal, if the front brake has the noise, check whether the brake pad friction lining is worn seriously or not. If it is worn seriously, the right and left brake pads should be replaced together.

Brake drum and brake shoe pad (rear) Inspection 1) Remove the wheel and brake drum. 2) Check whether the brake drum and the brake friction lining are worn and damaged or not. When remove the wheel and brake drum, check whether the brake sub-pump is leaked or not. If necessary, replace it. Refer to Chapter VII. Brake horse and oil pipe Inspection When perform the inspection, the light intensity should be sufficient, if necessary, use the inspection mirror. Check whether the brake horses and the oil pipe clamps are appropriate or not, whether have the leaks, cracks, jam, wear, corrosion, bending, twisting and other damages. If necessary, replace it. Check whether all pipe clamps are fastened, and the joints are leaked or not. Check the oil pipes and horses to avoid contacting with the sharp edges and moving parts. Caution: After replacing any brake oil pipe and horse, must implement the exhaust operation. Brake liquid inspection

1. Fluid tank 2. Fluid tank cover

1. Fluid tank 2. Fluid tank cover

Check whether the brake master pump and liquid tank are leaked or not. If it is leaked, repair it immediately. Check the liquid level. If the liquid level is below the minimum liquid level of the liquid tank, make up it by the regulated brake liquid. Brake liquid: The brake liquid brand No. is HZY3

GB12981-2003

Refer to Chapter VII Vehicle Maintenance. Caution: As the auto has been filled the brake liquid before leave the factory, if need to fill or make up it, you should use the same brake liquid, otherwise it may cause the serious damages. Do not use the expired and used brake liquid, or the brake which is not stored in the sealed container.

Replacement Replace the brake liquid according to the following requirements. Drain the brake liquid in the brake system completely. Fill it by the above recommended brake liquid, and exhaust the air. The exhaust procedures refer to Chapter VII. Brake pedal Inspection Check the travel of the brake pedal. The inspection procedures refer to Chapter VII Inspection of Brake Pedal Travel.

Brake handle and link Inspection Check whether the brake handle tooth tip is worn or damaged. If it is worn or damaged, replace the parking brake handle. Check whether the operation and travel of the parking brake handle are correct. If necessary, adjust it. Inspection and adjustment procedures refer to Chapter 5 Inspection and Adjustment of Parking Brake. ―a‖：Parking brake handle travel. 4～7 teeth (apply the pulling force of 25kg).

1. Clutch pedal

7. Chassis and body Clutch inspection Check the free travel of the clutch pedal. The inspection adjustment procedures refer to Section 2 of Chapter 6.

“a” free travel of the pedal is 15～25mm

Tie Inspection Check whether the tire is worn or damaged excessively. If it is poor, replace it. Check the pressure of each tire, if it does not comply with the technical requirements, adjust the pressure value. Notice: Check the tire pressure after cooling. Find out the regulated tire pressure from the tire pressure plate or manual equipped with the vehicle.

1. Wear indication pattern

Rotation of the tire: Rotate the tire after a certain period. The detailed procedures refer to Section 3 of Chapter IV. Wheel Inspection of wheel rim Check whether the wheel rim has the indentation, deformation and cracks. If the wheel rim is damaged seriously, must replace it. Inspection of wheel bearing Check whether the bearing of the front wheel is worn and damaged, and has the noise or clicks. Refer to Section 1 of Chapter V Inspection of Front Suspension. Check whether the bearing of the rear wheel is worn and damaged, and has the noise or clicks. Refer to Section 1 of Chapter V Inspection of Rear Suspension. Wheel nuts Check whether the wheel nuts are fastened, if it is not fastened, fasten it by the regulations again.

1. Front tie 2. Rear tie 3. Reserved tire

Suspension device Inspection Check whether the front/rear shock absorber has the oil leak, indentation or other damages on the bushing, and check whether the end of the base is damaged, if it is damaged, replace it. Check whether the front/rear suspension device is damaged and loosened, and check whether the components are worn or lubricated. If the component is damaged, repair or replace it. Check whether the dustproof sealed cover of the front cantilever ball head pin is leaked, released, torn or damaged. If it is damaged, replace it. Check whether the suspension bolts and nuts are fastened or not, if necessary, fasten it again, if the component is damaged, repair or replace it.

1. Ball joint bolt dustproof sealed pad 2. Suspension cantilever

1. Pillar

Drive shaft Inspection Check whether the universal joint and spline of the drive shaft has the clicks, if there is the click, replace the damaged components. Check whether the collar-head fork bolts and nuts of the drive shaft are fastened or not, if necessary, fasten it again. Tightening torque (a)：23±5N·m

Manual transmission oil Inspection Check whether the transmission gear has the oil leak, if have, repair the leaking position.

When check the oil level, ensure the auto flat. Remove the oil level plug of the transmission. Check the oil level by the oil filling hole/oil level plug hole.

1. Oil filling hole/oil level plug 2. Oil discharge plug

When remove the oil level plug, the oil outflow from the oil level hole, it indicates that it has been filled to the position. If it is found that the lack of the fuel, fuel it by the regulated oil and make the oil level reach the oil level hole. The regulated oil refer to the instruction of the oil replacement of Drive System of Chapter IV. Tighten the oil level plug according to the regulated torque. Replacement 1) Make the auto flat. Put the oil container under the body, and remove the oil discharge plug for discharging the oil. 2) Smear the sealant on the oil discharge plug, and then tighten the oil discharge plug by the regulated torque. 3) Fill it by the regulated oil and make the oil level reach the oil level hole. 4) The recommended oil, oil volume and tightening torque data refer to Chapter Iv. Specification Location

Winter

Filling volume（L） Summer

Transmission Rear differential

axle

75W/90 GL-5 GB13895-1999

85W/90 GL-5 GB13895-1999

XC4F18 engine

DL465Q5 engine

1.3

1.3

1.3

Inspection of differential oil Check whether the differential case is leaked, if it is leaked, repair it. When check the oil level, make the auto flat. Remove the oil level plug of the differential. Check the oil through the oil level plug hole roughly. 1. Oil discharge plug 2. Oil filter/oil level plug

When remove the oil level plug, the oil shall outflow from the hole, and it indicates that the oil has been filled to the place. If it is found that the lack of the oil volume, fill the regulated oil and make the oil level to the oil level hole. The regulated oil refer to the replacement instruction of ―Vehicle Maintenance‖ of Section 5 of Chapter III. Tighten the oil level plug according to the regulated torque. Replacement 1) Make the auto flat. Put the oil container under the body, and remove the oil discharge plug for discharging the oil. 2) Smear the sealant on the oil discharge plug, and then tighten the oil discharge plug by the regulated torque. 3) Fill it by the regulated oil and make the oil level reach the oil level hole.。 4) Tighten the oil filling plug according to the regulated torque, and the recommended oil, oil volume and tightening torque data refer to Chapter IV. Steering system Inspection Make the auto drive straightly, check whether the clearance of the steering wheel is appropriate, and check whether the is there clicks or not. Free travel of peripheral flange of the steering wheel “a”：0～30mm ·Check whether the bolts and nuts have been tightened or not, if necessary, tighten it again. If the component is damaged, repair or replace it. ·Check whether the steering rod is loosened or damaged. If it is loosened or damaged, repair or replace it. ·Check whether the steering rod protective boot and the steering pinion case are damaged or not (leak, tear, loosen, etc.). If it is damaged, replace it by the new case. ·Check whether the universal joint of the steering shaft has the clicks and is damaged, if it has the clicks and is damaged, replace it by the new components. ·Check whether the steering wheel is steering around. If the steering is bad, repair or replace it. ·Check whether the bolts and nuts are tightened or not, if necessary, tighten it again. If it is damaged, repair or replace it. Refer to Chapter VI Tightening Torque Technical Requirements. ·Check whether the steering wheel is calibrated or not. Notice: Detail description of the steering wheel calibration. Refer to Chapter V Steering Wheel Calibration.

1. Tie rod end boot 2. Steering gear case 3. Universal joint

All door latches, hinges and locks Inspection Check whether the switch of the front door, rear door and back door are flexible and fastened or not. Refer to Chapter IX.

Example: front door

Shift fork and shaft Inspection Check whether the shift form is flexible, has the abnormal noise or not. If the operation is badly, lubricate it by the following requirements:

Use the chassis waterproof grease to lubricate the control rod base and shaft bushing.

8. Final inspection Warning: When implement the road test, in order to avoid any accident, implement it in the safe area. Door Check whether the opening and closing of each door are flexible, and the door is fastened or not.

Seat Check whether the front seat backrest governor mechanism is locked firmly in the allowed angle.

Seat belt Check whether the seat belt device (including the reinforcing plate, buckle, pinch plate telescopic device and fasteners) is damaged or worn or not. Check whether the seat belt is locked firmly or not.

Inspection of battery electrolyte level Check the electrolyte level of all battery is located between the up and below liquid level on the battery case. maintenance free battery

Accelerator pedal operation Check whether the accelerator pedal operation is flexible or not, and it should not be interfered or locked. Check whether accelerator pedal clearance is appropriate or not.

Starting the engine Check the starting conditions of the engine. Warning: Before inspection, there must be the enough space around the auto. Ensure the parking brake and foot brake reliable, and do not step the accelerator pedal. If start the engine, turn off the ignition device immediately. These preventive measures are to avoid that the carelessness cause the personal injury or property damages. Put the stick shift in ―N‖ neutral position, when step the clutch completely, start the engine.

Exhaust system inspection Check whether the exhaust system is leaked, cracked or loosened or not.

Clutch Check the following conditions: When step the clutch pedal, the clutch shall be fully released. When release the pedal to accelerate, the clutch shall not slip. The clutch does not exist any abnormalities.

Shift or selector (transmission) Check the shift of the shift or selector in all positions is flexible, the transmission performance in any position is in good condition or not.

Brake [Foot brake] Check the following conditions: Check whether the brake pedal travel is appropriate or not. The work performance of the brake is good or not. Check whether there is the noise. Check whether the brake force applied to all wheels are even or not. Check whether the brake can reset or not. [Parking brake] Check whether the brake lever travel is appropriate or not. Warning: When park the auto on the steep road, ensure that there is nothing in front to avoid the personal injury and property damages. Even the auto starts to move, it can implement the foot brake immediately. When park the auto on the road with the gradient of 30%, if the pull up the brake level fully, ensure that the parking brake is effective completely.

Steering Check the stability of the steering wheel, and ensure that there is no the unstable and extremely heavy

phenomenon. Check the auto operating stability and driving stability. Engine Check the engine, and it should operate freely in any speed. Check the engine without abnormal noise and abnormal vibration.

Body, wheel and power transfer system Check the body, wheel and power transfer system without abnormal noise and abnormal vibration or any other abnormal circumstance.

Measurement instruments Check whether the working of the odometer, speedometer, fuel gauge, and thermometer are accurate or not. Light Check whether all lights work well or not. Windscreen defroster When the heater or air conditioning is working, check the air exhausted from the defroster regularly. When implement the inspection, turn the fan switch to the position of ―HI‖.

Chapter II Engine mechanical part Section I Overall structure of engine

Up to now, ―Jinbei Haixing‖ series microcar uses DL465Q5, XC4F18-T, XC4F18-F, LJ465QR1E2 and other engines according to the needs of the customer; Chongqing Xinyuan Auto Co., Ltd. uses DL465Q5 and XC4F18-F engine, DL465Q5 and XC4F18-F received the user‘s favor by the excellent quality, therefore, this book is mainly by the maintenance of DL465Q5 and XC4F18-F engine.

DL465Q5 engine appearance picture

XC4F18-F engine appearance picture I. Composition of engine The engine is composed of two mechanisms and four systems: connecting rod, valve gear, fuel injection electronic control system, lubrication system, cooling system, starting system. 1. Connecting rod, includes: (1) Organism group includes: cylinder block, cylinder head, cylinder gasket, cylinder head fastening bolts, oil bottom shell, etc. (2) Piston connecting rod group includes: piston, piston ring, piston pin, connecting rod, connecting rod bearing, connecting rod bolts, etc. (3) Crankshaft flywheel includes: crankshaft, flywheel, crankshaft bearing, timing gear, etc. 2. Valve mechanism includes: (1) Valve group includes: intake and exhaust valve, valve guide pipe, valve spring, valve race, valve lock, etc. (2) Valve drive group includes: camshaft, timing gear, synchronous tooth drive belt, tension pulley and adjustment device, rocker arm, rocker arm shaft, valve clearance adjustment device.

3. Fuel injection and electronic control system, includes: (1) Fuel injection input, output device and various sensors, mainly include: engine speed and crankshaft position sensor, intake pressure temperature sensor, joint valve position sensor, speed sensor, oxygen sensor, etc. (2) Fuel supply and injection device, mainly include: fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator, fuel injector, etc. (3) Intake device, mainly includes: air filter, joint valve body, idling speed control valve, intake manifold. (4) Gasoline vapor collection device: active carbon filter, carbon canister control valve. (5) Ignition device includes: 1. ignition coil, 2. spark plug, 3. phase sensor, 4. ECU. (6) Exhaust device includes exhaust manifold, exhaust pipe, muffler, catalytic converter. (7) The computer and its control devices include the fuel injection control, fuel injection timing control, ignition control, idling speed control, etc. (8) Fault self-diagnosis, storage device. 4. The lubrication system includes: Oil bottom shell, oil pump, oil filter, oil passage, instrument, sensor, etc. 5. The cooling system includes: radiator, water pump, electric fan, thermostat, water thermometer, sensor, heater exchanger, etc. 6. Power supply and starting system include: battery, starter, generator (belt regulator), etc. II. Main features of the engine The engine is the water-cooled, 4-cylinder and 4-stroke gasoline engine, and uses SOHC (single overhead camshaft) mechanism. SOHC should be installed on the cylinder head, and it is driven by the timing belt and a pair of timing gear crankshaft. Section 2 Notices of engine mechanical part maintenance I. Cleaning and protection The auto engine is composed of many precisely machined parts, the surface accuracy of these parts is high, and must use the spiral micrometer, cylinder bore instrument to measure. Therefore, when maintain any part in the engine; the care and cleaning are very important. After reading this section, the maintenance procedure of cleaning and protecting the machine surface and friction surface are the important parts. Even there is no the special provisions, you should also develop the good work habit. In assembly, smear the enough engine oil on the friction surface to facilitate to protect and lubricate the internal work surface. When remove the valve, piston, piston ring, connecting rod, connecting rod bearing, crankshaft bearing for maintenance, implement it according to the regulations. In assembly, install then in place according to the same position and matching surface of disassembly.

Before maintain the engine, remove the battery cable. If the cable is not removed, it may damage the harness or other electronic components. According to the regulations of this manual, the part number of 4 cylinders of the engine from the front crankshaft pulley to the flywheel is No.1, 2, 3 and 4. Such as the left picture in this page. II. Engine maintenance overview Please read the following knowledge related to the engine maintenance carefully. This is very important to prevent the failures, and shall help improve the reliability of the engine. When lift the engine, place the jack on the ground and under the oil bottom shell. As there is the small clearance between the oil bottom shell and oil pump filter, incorrect operation method may cause the deformation of the oil bottom shell and damage the oil sensing devices. Notice: When the engine is working, the electrical system may be damaged by the serious short circuit. When implement the maintenance work, be sure to remove the negative connecting wires of the battery. At any time, after removing the air filter, air throttle, intake manifold, cover the inlet to prevent the extraneous matter from entering accidentally, if you do not start the engine by this way, the impurities may enter the cylinder along the intake channel to cause a wider range of failures. When remove the cable plug connectors, you only pull the connector and do not pull the harness, for the connector with the lock, be sure remove it after pressing the lock. If you remove it without pressing the lock, it may damage the plug connectors. When connect the lock connector, insert it until hear the sound of ―click‖, and it indicates that it has been connected reliably. As shown in the following right picture.

No. 1-1 cylinder No. 2-2 cylinder No. 3-3 cylinder No. 4-4 cylinder Part number principle of the cylinder

Correct connecting method of wire lock

Parts

Maintenance property

Spark plug

Replacement or inspection

Ignition coil

Replacement, inspection or adjustment

Exhaust manifold

Replacement or inspection

Oil filter Oil pressure alarm Cylinder head cover

Replacement Replacement Replacement

Cylinder head

Replacement or inspection

Radiator

Replacement or inspection

Cooling fan

Replacement

Camshaft timing pulley

Replacement or inspection

Crankshaft timing pulley

Replacement or inspection

Timing belt

Replacement or inspection

Fuel pump Intake manifold

Replacement Replacement

Generator

Replacement or inspection

Start the motor

Replacement or inspection

Water pump belt

Replacement, inspection or tension adjustment

Water pump Pulley (crank, water pump) Timing belt cover

Replacement Replacement Replacement

Water pipe

Replacement or inspection

Oil pan and oil filter

Replacement or inspection

Oil pump

Replacement or inspection

III. Engine maintenance without disassembly When repair the above parts and components (replacement, inspection or adjustment), it is not necessary to disassemble the engine.

Ⅳ Engine removal The repair to some parts of the engine needs to remove it. The procedures for such removal are as follows: (1) Loosen the fuel tank cap to release the fuel pressure. (2) Remove the front seats, and then dismantle the central elements in the engine compartment together with the gear lever and brake bar. (3) Remove the accumulator and its base plate.

1. Radiator 2. Drain plug

(4) Let the coolant and transmission oil out. (5) Tear the wire harness tube clamp of the engine down from the car body or the intake manifold. (6) Remove the switch lead of the cooling fan. (7) Remove the minus earth wire of the accumulator form the intake manifold. (8) Dismantle fuel cutoff solenoid wires and water temperature sensor leads. (9) Remove the vacuum solenoid leads and ECT sensor connector of air conditioner (if any). (10) Remove the wire terminals and outlet terminals of the generator.

2. A/C vacuum solenoid 4. A/C ECT sensor

3. ECT sensor

(11) Remove the air filter. (12) Remove the inlet hose. (13) Remove the throttle cables. (14) Remove the oil inlet pipes and oil return pipes. (15) Remove the heating and ventilation pipes from the inlet manifold. (16) Remove the inlet pipe of the radiator of the fluid reservoir hose from the inlet manifold. (17) Remove the water inlet hose of the heating ventilator from the inlet manifold and then remove the outlet hose of the radiator from the water inlet pipe. (18) Remove the vacuum hose from the carbon tank. (19) Remove the brake booster hose from the inlet manifold.

(20) Remove the switch leads of the compressor from the compressor of air conditioner (if an air conditioner is equipped). (21) Discharge the refrigerant from the air conditioning system, and then remove the hose from the compressor. (22) Lift the car body and place it at a proper height. (23) If necessary, let the engine oil out.。 (24) Remove the nut of the central pipe of the exhaust. (25) Remove the terminals from the starting dynamo, and the positive electrode wire from the accumulator. (26) Remove the minus earth wire of accumulator from the transmission. (27) Remove the switch lead terminations from the reversing lights. (28) Remove the speedometer cable from the transmission. (29) Remove the high voltage cable from the ignition coil. (30) Remove the leads from the oil pressure alarm. (31) Remove the exhaust manifold cover and then remove the engine earth lead from exhaust manifold. (32) Remove the clutch cable from the clutch release arm and transmission housing. (33) Remove the drive shaft. (34) Remove the lower cover and stays. (35) Put the transmission special lifter under the engine with the transmission. When use the lifter, ensure that it plane can support the whole oil pan evenly, even removing the bracket bolts of the rear suspension, the engine with the transmission can maintain the level support. (36) Remove the engine suspension bracket bolts. (37) Before drop, check again and determine whether all pipelines and links have been removed from the engine and transmission. (38) Remove the engine with the transmission. (39) Remove the reinforcing plate of the transmission to make the engine and transmission separate. (40) Remove the engine bracket, if necessary, replace the suspension cushion. (41) Decomposition and maintenance of all parts of the engine. Section Ⅲ Crankshaft connecting rod

The crankshaft connecting rod is the core and base of the engine, and is the place where convert the gasoline to the mechanical work. Its main role is: convert the expansion pressure acting on the top of the piston in combustion of gasoline to the external output power in rotary motion of the crankshaft (torque), and all components of the engine shall be mounted on top directly or indirectly. Cylinder I. Composition head cover Cylinde Piston r head Cylinde r pad

Connecting rod

Cylinder body Flywheel Body group Crankshaft

II. Common faults diagnosis of crankshaft connecting rod The crankshaft connecting rod bear great heat load and mechanical load, the wear is seriously and is higher than the failure rate of the assembly, the common faults include: 1. Detonation Detonation is a kind of abnormal combustion noise, and the main reasons for this failure include: (1) The used gasoline brand is lower. (2) The compression ratio of the engine is larger, and there are too much carbon in the burning room or there is the hot point. (3) Work under the large load for a long time, or the cooling system is abnormal to make the engine overheating. (4) The spark advance angle is too small (the ignition time is too late). It is worth noting that: for the electrostatic spray engine equipped with the detonation sensor, the sensitivity of the detonation caused by the above reasons is lower, even avoid it. 2. Knock The knock is a kind of abnormal sound by knocking the cylinder wall in the reversing movement of the piston, the reasons caused this failure include: (1) The wear of the piston skirt and the cylinder wall can cause the larger gap of the cylinder wall. (2) Deformation of the connection rod.

(3) The piston pin is declined, and the piston direct in is reverse. (4) The cylinder gap is larger in assembly, especially knock is more obvious in the cooling state, and there is ―Dangdang‖ sound. 3. Water and air leakage The water leakage is that the cooling water flow from the cooling system to the cylinder, oil bottom shell and outside of the engine, and air leakage is that the air in the cylinder leak into the crankshaft case and outside of the engine in the compression and working process. The main reasons caused this failure include: (1) The joint surface of the cylinder block and head is warping, and the roughness exceeds the required value. (2) The cylinder pad is damaged or burned. (3) The tightening sequence of the fastening bolts of the cylinder head does not comply with the requirements, or the tightening torque value does not meet the requirements. (4) There are other foreign body in addition to the cylinder pad on the joint surface of the cylinder body and head. (5) The cylinder block and head have the cranks, and the joints of the cooling system pipeline are leaked. 4. Cylinder score The cylinder score is that there is the grooves along the direction of the piston movement on the smooth cylinder wall, and the main reasons include: (1) The air filter is useless, so that make the mixed air, dust and impurities entering the cylinder exceed the standard. (2) The impurities in the lubricant exceed the standard. (3) The piston ring is broken, or the carbon in the cylinder is too much. (4) The various reasons cause that the piston skirt is expanded excessively to cause the cylinder locking phenomenon. 5. Excessive oil consumption (generally, after driving 100 km, the “pump oil” should not exceed 10% of consumption) The oil consumption exceeds the normal value too much, and the reasons cause this phenomenon include: (1) The gap between the piston and cylinder wall is too large, and more lubricant entering the combustion chamber: (2) The piston ring lost its elasticity or is stuck in the ring slot, the direction of the distorted ring (non-rectangular cross-section gas ring) is reverse to make more lubricant enter the combustion chamber. (3) The oil is deteriorated, or the viscosity is too thin. (4) The mouth of the gas ring and oil ring are matching. 6. Main bearing, connecting rod bearing (commonly known as big and small shell) abnormal sound. The main reasons include: (1) Gap between the bearing and journal is too large.

(2) The tightening force of the fastening bolts of the bearing is not enough, or the crankshaft diameter is worn. (3) The bearing damage due to poor lubrication. (4) The thrust tile is damaged and exceeds the standard.

III. Maintenance of the crankshaft connection rod 1. Cylinder head Remove all carbon in the combustion chamber. Notice: Do not use any tool with the sharpening edge scrape the carbon deposit, when scrap the carbon deposit, please do not scratch the metal surface. The valve and valve seat are the same.

Check whether the intake and exhaust port of the cylinder head, combustion chamber and cylinder head surface have the cracks or not. Check the flatness of the cylinder block connection surface:

Item

Standard

Limiting value

Flatness

0.03mm

0.05mm

Use the straightedge and thickness gauge to check the flatness of 6 parts, if exceed the following given limiting value, use the flat plate and about 400# sandpaper to grind the

sealing surface. Put the sandpaper on the flat plate, grind the flat, and grind the convex parts, if this fails to meet the requirements, please replace the cylinder head. (water grinding diamond sandpaper) Due to the deformation of the sealing surface, the air in the combustion chamber is often leaked from this sealing surface. This leakage shall cause that the output power is decreased. Flatness limiting value: 0.05mm。 The flatness of the combining surface of the intake (exhaust) manifold: Use the straightedge and thickness gauge to check the combining surface of the cylinder intake (exhaust) manifold to determine whether these surfaces must be grinding, or the must replace the cylinder head or not. Inspection of cylinder flatness

Flatness limiting value: 0.10mm.

2. Cylinder· Check the cylinder wall scratches, roughness or convex parts with excessive wear, if the cylinder wall has the roughness, scratches or convex parts, bore the cylinder again and use the oversize piston. Use the inside micrometer to measure the diameter of two locations of the cylinder as shown in the picture, if there are the following phenomenon, bore the cylinder again. ·The cylinder diameter exceeds the limiting value. ·The measurement of two positions exceed the roundness limiting value. ·The differences of the measurement of two positions as shown in the picture exceed the roundness limiting value (conical degree). Cylinder wear limiting value: 0.05mm Conical degree and loss of roundness limiting value: 0.10mm Size (specification) Standard

Oversize 0.25mm

Oversize 0.50mm

Piston diameter 65.450－65.475mm（465） 73.97－73.99mm（474） 65.700－65.725mm（465） 74.00－74.01mm（474） 65.950－65.975mm（465） 74.01－74.02mm（474）

Notice: in four cylinder holes, if need to increase the size of any hole, increase the size for 4 cylinder holes at the same time, and the size of 4 holes should be consistent.

Cylinder boring 1）When any cylinder is needed to bore again, all other cylinders must be boring at the same time.

2）Select the corresponding piston of increasing the size according to the cylinder wear volume. 3) Use the micrometer to measure the piston diameter of the position as shown in the picture. As shown in the right picture. 4) Calculate the cylinder diameter by boring again. D＝A+B－C D：Re-boring cylinder diameter. A：Measured piston diameter. B：Gap between the piston and cylinder wall. C：Honing margin＝0.02mm 5) Re-boring and honing cylinder to calculate the size. Notice: Before re-boring cylinder, install all main bearing heads in place, and tighten it by the regulated torque to avoid the deformation of the bearing hole. 6) After honing, measure the piston clearance. Use the straightedge and thickness gauge to check the deformation conditions of the top surface, if the flatness exceeds the regulated value, correct it. 3. Piston, piston pin, piston ring and connecting rod Piston ·Check whether the piston has the abnormal wear and cracks, if have, replace it. ·As shown in right picture, must measure the piston diameter in the vertical direction with the piston pin hole at the position 15mm away from the piston skirt.

·Piston clearance: Piston clearance

0.02－0.04mm

In order to determine the piston clearance, must measure the cylinder diameter and piston diameter. The piston clearance the difference between the cylinder diameter and piston diameter, and it must be in the following given regulated scope. If exceed the regulated scope, must implement re -boring cylinder and use the piston of increasing the size. Notice: Calculate the piston clearance by the cylinder diameter measured at the stop position (2).

·Piston ring slot clearance:

before inspection, be sure to clean and dry the piston ring slot, and remove the carbon deposits. Install the new piston ring into the piston ring slot, and use the thickness gauge to measure the clearance between the piston ring and piston ring slot. If the clearance exceeds the regulations, replace the piston.

Piston ring slot clearance

One ring

0.03－0.07mm

Two rings

0.02－0.06mm

1. Piston ring 2. Thickness gauge

Piston pin ·Smear the oil on the piston pin, push it by the finger at the room temperature, the piston pin should be installed in the piston pin hole easily. ·Check the piston pin, the wear and damage conditions of the connecting rod small end pin hole and piston pin hole, pay special attention to the small end hole bushing, if the piston pin, connecting small end pin hole, piston pin hole are worn or damaged seriously, please replace the piston pin, connection rod or piston. ·Piston pin clearance: Check the piston clearance in the small end. If the small end is worn or damaged seriously, if the clearance exceeds the limiting value, please replace the connection rod. Piston pin clearance in small end: Standard: 0.003～0.016mm Limiting value: 0.05mm Small end pin hole: 16.003～16.011mm 1. Cylinder block 2. Side feeler gauge 4. Piston ring 3. Piston ring 4. 120mm As shown in the right picture, measure the open clearance, insert the piston ring into the cylinder hole firstly, and then use the thickness gauge to measure the clearance. If the measured open clearance does not meet the specification, replace the piston Item Standard Limiting value ring. Piston pin diameter: 15.995～16.000mm

One ring Piston ring Two open rings clearance Oil ring

0.15～0.30mm

0.6mm

0.15～0.30mm

0.6mm

0.20～0.70mm

1.8mm

Notice: Before put it in the plug ring, remove the deposited carbon, and then

Clean the cylinder top.

item Connecting rod big end side clearance

Standard

0.10～0.20mm

Limiting value

0.30mm

Parallelism bending limiting value

0.05mm

Parallelism distorting limiting value

0.10mm

Connecting rod Big end side clearance: After installing the connecting rod according to the correct assembly process, check the connecting rod big end side clearance, if the side clearance exceeds the regulated limiting value, replace the connecting rod. Parallelism of small and big ends of the connecting rod. Use the straightening devise to check the parallelism of the small and big axis, if it exceeds the regulated limiting value, replace it. 5. Crankshaft connecting rod journal and connecting rod shell Check the uneven wear or damage conditions of the connecting rod journal. Use the micrometer to check the crankshaft connecting rod journal diameter, if the crankshaft connecting rod journal is damaged or the roughness exceeds the limiting value, replace the crankshaft or refer to Step 6 connecting bearing clearance lapping journal. Connecting rod shell: Check whether the connecting rod has the pits, ablation or surface spelling conditions, and observe the contacting graphics, if it is found that the shaft shell quality is unqualified, replace it. Equip with two connecting rod shaft shells: Bearing shell with the standard size and bearing shell reducing 0.25mm. In order to distinguish Their sizes, print 0.25 on the back of the bearing shell, but the bearing shell with the standard Size has no the part number.

1.

Connecting rod bearing head

Connecting rod bearing shell clearance:

2.

Arrow mark

1) Before check the clearance, clean the bearing shell and connecting rod journal.

3.

Crankshaft pulley side

4.

Connecting rod head nut

2) Install the bearing shell on the connecting rod big end and connecting rod cover correctly.

3）Put a plastic gauge with the same width with the crankshaft connecting rod journal on the connecting rod journal in parallel, and pay attention to avoid the oil hole. 4) Install the connecting rod to the connecting rod. When install the connecting rod head, make the arrow mark on the connecting rod cap point to one side of the crankshaft pulley according to the instruction of the picture, after smearing the oil for the connecting bolts, tighten

the connecting rod nuts to the regulated torque. After placing the plastic gauge, pay attention to that do not rotate the crankshaft. Tightening torque (a)：28～32N·m 5) Remove the connecting rod, and then use the straightedge to measure the width of the plastic gauge at the widest point on the plastic gauge cover and read the corresponding clearance value, if the clearance exceeds the limiting vale, use the new bearing shell with the standard size, and then measure the clearance. Item

Standard

Limiting value

Bearing clearance

0.020～0.040mm

0.080mm

6) If use the new bearing shell with the standard size, the clearance still not reaches the limiting value, grind the crankshaft connecting rod journal by the following procedures. －Install the bearing shell with the size of 0.25mm to the connection big end. －Measure the hole diameter of the connecting rod big end (install the bearing shell with the reduced size) －The lapping journal make it to the following dimensions. Finishing connecting rod journal diameter = connecting rod big end hole diameter (include the bearing shell with the reduced size) －0.048mm －Confirm whether the bearing shell clearance is within the above standard value or not.

6. Crankshaft Crankshaft straightness Use the micrometer to measure the offset of the central journal. Rotate the crankshaft slowly, if the straightness exceeds the limiting value, replace the crankshaft. Straightness limiting value

0.06mm

Crankshaft thrust clearance After assembling the main bearing shell and main bearing head as well as the thrust plate, tighten it by the regulated torque, and then use the axis direction to push the crankshaft to measure the crankshaft thrust clearance. Item

Standard

Limiting value

Crankshaft

0.13～0.28mm

0.35mm

thrust clearance.

Tightening torque (a)：43～48N·m Use the dialgauge to read the crankshaft axial displacement. If it exceeds the limiting value, replace the new thrust plate with the standard size or oversize to reach the thrust 1. Thrust plate clearance requirements.

7.

Cylindricity

of

main

journal

requirements

The difference of the diameter of different points at the same profile location in the diameter and length direction measured by the micrometer can reflect the uneven wear of the crankshaft, if any journal is damaged seriously or the uneven wear exceed the cylindricity limiting value, grind the journal or replace the crankshaft.。 Roundness limiting value of crankshaft and conical degree: 0.01mm 1. Upper bearing 2. Oil slot

8. Main bearing shell General description

1. One side of crankshaft pulley The bearing shell with the standard size and reducing 0.25mm are available from theofstock, each kind of them has 5 2. One side the flywheel kinds of tolerance series for available. The upper bearing shell has the oil slot as shown in the picture. It shall be installed on the cylinder block.

According to the instruction of the picture, when install the bearing shell head, print the arrow and number on each main bearing shell, make the arrow mark point to one side of the crankshaft pulley, and then install each bearing sequence of 1,2,3,4,5 and tighten the bearing shell head to the Tightening torque (a)：43～48N·m

shell by the regulated torque.

Inspection Check whether the bearing shell has the rust spots, scratches, wear or damages or not. If there are abnormal conditions, replace the upper and lower bearing shell, and do not replace half of the bearing shell.

Thickness crankshaft plate

Standard

2.500mm

Increase the size of thrust 0.125mm

2.563mm

Increase the size 2.625mm 0.250mm

Main bearing shell clearance Use the plastic gauge to check the clearance according to the following procedures. 1) Remove the bearing shell head. 2) Clean the bearing shell and main journal.

1. Straightening plastic strip 3) Place a plastic gauge (parallel to the crankshaft) with the width same with the2.bearing Ruler shell on the journal, and avoid the oil hole. 4) Install the main bearing head according to the above method and tighten the bearing head bolts by the regulations, and the bearing head must be tightened to the regulated torque to ensure the reading is correct. Notice: Before install the plastic strip, do not allow to rotate the crankshaft. 5) Remove the bearing head, and measure the thickness of the straightening plastic strip at the w idest point by the scale on the straightening plastic strip. If the clearance exceeds its limiting value, replace the bearing. When replace the bearing, replace the upper and lower bearing shell together. The new standard bearing can generate the correct gap. If it can‘t, must grind the crankshaft journal to facilitate to use the bearing with small size of 0.25mm. After selection of new bearing, check Standard Limiting value Bearing the clearance again. clearance 0.020～0.040mm 0.06mm Selection of main bearing shell Standard bearing shell: If the main bearing shell is in the abnormal state, or the clearance of the main bearing shell does not meet the regulations, select the new standard bearing shell for installation according to the following procedures. 1) Firstly, check the diameter of the journal by the following methods. As shown in the picture, No.1 cylinder crankshaft arm has 5 printing numbers. 2）Three number (―1‖, ―2‖ and ―3‖) represent the diameter of the following journal. Printed number

Journal diameter No. 1 cylinder crank arm

1

37.982～38.000mm

2

37.732～37.750mm

3

37.482～37.500mm

The first, second, third, fourth and fifth (from left to right) numbers represent the journal diameter on the bearing head of No.―1‖, ―2‖, ―3‖, ―4‖ and ―5‖. Such as 465 engine in the above right picture, the first (left-most) number ―3‖ represents that the journal diameter of No. ―1‖ bearing head is 37.482-37.500mm, and the second number ―1‖ represents that the journal diameter on No. ―2‖ bearing head is 37.982—38.000mm. 2) And then, before install the main bearing shell, check the diameter of the bearing head boring hole. On the cylinder block assembly surface, the positions of 4 printed letters are shown in the picture. Three letters (―A‖, ―B‖ and ―C‖) represent the diameter of the following bearing head boring holes.

Printed letter

Bearing head boring hole diameter (without bearing shell)

A

49.000～49.006mm（474）

B

49.006～49.012mm（474）

C

49.012～49.18mm（474）

The first, second, third, fourth and fifth (from left to right) numbers represent the boring hole diameter of No.―1‖, ―2‖, ―3‖, ―4‖ and ―5‖ separately. such as 474 engine, the first letter (left-most) ―B‖ represents that the bearing head boring hole diameter of No. ―1‖ is 49.006—49.012mm, and the fifth letter (right-most) ―A‖ represents that the bearing head boring hole diameter of No. ―5‖ is 49.000—49.006mm. 3) There are 5 kinds standard main bearing shell with different thickness. In order to facilitate to distinguish them, paint the following colors according to the positions in the picture. Colored point

The colors marked on the bearing hell center indicate the following thickness respectively. Color

Thickness of bearing shell

Green

1.986～1.990mm

Black

1.989～1.993mm

None (no color)

1.992～1.996mm

Yellow

1.995～1.999mm

Blue

1.998～2.002mm

4) According to the numbers printed on No. 2 and No.3 cylinder crank arms and the printed letters on the assembly surface of cylinder block, refer to the following table to make sure that new standard bearing shells are fitted to journals. Numbers printed on crank arms (journal diameter)

Letters printed on assembly surface (bearing cap bore diameter)

l

2

3

A

Green

Black

None

B

Black

None

Yellow

C

None

Yellow

1.Journal diameter (number) 2.Bearing cap bore diameter(letter)

Blue

New standard bearing shells that shall be assembled. For example, provided that the printed number on the crank arm is ―1‖, and the printed letter on the assembly surface is ―B‖, the new standard bearing shell painted as ―Black‖ shall be assembled to the journal. 5) Use aligning plastic strip to inspect the clearance of the newly-selected standard bearing shell. If the clearance is still larger than its limit, use a thicker bearing shell and re-inspect the clearance. 6) When a crankshaft or a cylinder block is changed for whatever reasons, new standard bearing shell shall be the first choice. The method of choosing it is to refer to the printed number on the new crankshaft or the printed letter on the assembly surface of the new cylinder block. Small bearing shell (0.25mm) Small 0.25mm bearing shells fall into 5 types in terms of thickness. Painting point To make distinguishment convenient, all types of bearing shell shall be painted with the following colors on the positions as shown in the figure. The colors at the bearing shell center denote the following thickness respectively. Color

Bearing thickness

Green/red

2.121～2.125mm

Black/red

2.124～2.128mm

Red only

2.127～2.131mm

Yellow/red

2.130～2.134mm

Blue/red

2.134～2.137mm

If necessary, crank journals shall be grinded, and small bearing shells are chosen by the following method. 1) Grind journals to the following finish sizes. Finish size

44.732~44.750mm

2) Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of grinded journals. The measurement shall be along two directions which are perpendicular to each other so as to check whether they are out of circularity. 3) Make use of the journal diameters measured as above and printed letters on the assembly surface of the cylinder block; refer to the following table to choose small bearing shells. Measured journal diameter

Printed letters on the assembly surface of cylinder block

44.774~44.750mm

44.738~44.744mm

44.732~44.738mm

A

Green/red

Black/red

Red only

B

Black/red

Red only

Yellow/red

C

Red only

Yellow/red

Blue/red

Small bearing shells shall be assembled. The clearance of newly-selected small bearing shells shall be checked.

9． Rear oil seal

1. Rear oil seal

A check shall be carefully given to oil seals to make sure whether they are worn or damaged. If oil seal lips are worn or damaged, the oil seals shall be changed.

10．Flywheel ·If gear rings have damage such as cracks and wear, the flywheels shall be changed. ·If the surface of driven discs in touch with clutches is damaged or badly worn, corresponding parts shall be changed. ·Use a micrometer to check the flywheel end run-out. Flywheel‟s tightening torque：40~50

If its end run-out exceeds the limit, the flywheel shall be changed. N·m (465) 7 6~80 N·m (474) Limit of flywheel‟s end run-out: 0.2mm

Radial clearance between outer rotor and oil pump housing

Standard

Limit of radial clearance

0.045~0.120mm

0.300mm

Standard

Limit

0.045~0.120mm

0.17mm

Lateral clearance

11．Oil pump ·Check whether oil seal lips have faults or other damage. They shall be changed if necessary. ·Check whether inner and outer rotors, rotor plates and oil pump housing are badly worn, out of clearance or damaged. Radial clearance Use a feeler to inspect the radial clearance between outer rotors and oil pump housings. If the clearance exceeds its limit, the outer rotor or oil pump assembly shall be changed. Lateral clearance Use a ruler or feeler to inspect lateral clearances.

Section Ⅳ Valve Train The valve train is, according to requirements of engine working order and cylinders‘ working cycles, to close and

open intake and exhaust valves punctually to supply adequate combustible mixture, and exhaust waste gases in the combustion chamber at the same time to ensure the engine of continuous run.

Ⅰ. Composition of valve train Camshaft

Valve mechanisms of DL465Q5 and XC4F18-Fi EFI (electronic fuel injection) engines are overhead type, with camshaft directly arranged on cylinder heads, as shown in the right figure. The advantage of arranging camshafts on cylinder heads is to dispense with such parts as push rod and tappet, which greatly reduces the mass of reciprocating motion in valve mechanisms and thus picks up the engine speed. However, as the camshaft is far away from the crankshaft center, it is inconvenient to adopt gear drive. Accordingly, most of them employ synchronous belt transmission. The cam on the camshaft directly drives rocker arms to control the switches of intake and exhaust valves.

Valve assembly

Rocker arm shaft

Rocker arm assembly

Valves of valve trains include valves, valve-seat rings, valve guides, valve springs and cotter; The valve drive assembly consists of camshafts, timing gears, cog belts, tension pulleys, and valve rocker arm shaft and valve rocker arm. Figure 2-10 Cam valve train (Ⅰ) Valve assembly Each cylinder of an engine has two valves which are arranged in V shape, and the angle between the intake valve and the centerline is 330. 1. Valve An engine has an intake valve and an exhaust valve in each cylinder. As exhaust valves undergo more serious high-temperature gas impact than intake valves, the material of exhaust valves is more resistant against high temperature than intake valves, and the head of the former is larger than the latter in terms of strength and rigidity. To improve intake efficiency, the diameter of intake valve heads is larger than exhaust valves, while their working face cone angle is smaller than exhaust valves (generally 30 0 for intake valves and 450 for exhaust valves). Working faces shall undergo finish machining before grinding so as to ensure good tightness. 2. Valve guide Valve guides are made of nodular cast iron with finish machining and then pressed in the valve guide holes in the cylinder heads. Valve guides are mainly to guide the direction. Guide holes exactly fit valve stems to make valve head cones concentric with valve seat cones, ensuring that the valves correctly adhere to the seal when closed. Meanwhile, the heat through the valves can be guided to cylinder heads by them. As the requirement of working accuracy is high, and the wear is severe, valve guides fall into two categories: standard dimension and service dimension. 3. Valve seat ring The valve seat ring is to prolong the useful lift of valves and cylinder heads, and ensure valve‘s sealing accuracy and cut maintenance cost. In fact, it is a wear resistant cast iron ring set in the cylinder head. To ensure it working reliably and avoid catastrophic failure caused by its falling into the cylinder, it must be set firmly. Valve seat rings also are divided into standard dimension and maintenance dimension.

4. Valve spring The valve spring is between the cylinder head and the valve spring seat at the valve stem end. It is to close valves firmly without air leakage; avoid clearances caused by inertia forces produced among the driving parts; ensure valves to regularly close and open in accordance with cam contour curve, prevent air leakage resulting from untight closing of valves which jump when the engine vibrates. Valve springs are made of quality alloy spring steel wire which is coiled to be spiral shape. To ensure its elastic force not reduce under high speed alternating shock loads and improve its fatigue strength, the spring steel wire shall undergo grinding, polishing and shot blasting, as well as bluing or phosphating to meet operational requirements. 5．Cotter The working cone of valve heads tightly fit the valve seat ring cone. The stem is fixed on the cylinder head under the action of valve spring force applied by the valve taper cotter on the spring seat. Thus closing and sealing valves depends on valve springs, and opening intake and exhaust depends on the drive of the cam on the camshaft. (Ⅱ) Valve drive assembly The valve drive assembly of the engine is composed of such main components as camshafts, camshaft timing gears, synchronous belt, rocker arm shaft, rocker arms. The function of valve drive assembly is to utilize crankshaft power to punctually open and close intake and exhaust valves as required by cylinders‘ working order and valve timing, and minimize noises and wear. 1. Crankshaft The camshaft is one of the important parts of engine‘s valve train. The camshaft, of full supporting type, is fixed on the cylinder head with 5 journals supporting it. To make the installation convenient, the dimension of these journals increases successively from the flywheel end to the timing gear. The camshaft has 8 (XC4F18-F is 16) cams in total, of which each is responsible for opening and closing 8 (XC4F18-F is 16) valves. The cam contour curve is designed in accordance with the requirements of valve timing. The spatial location of the 8 (XC4F18-F is 16) cams is determined by both the working order and valve timing. To ensure normal work of the camshaft, the camshaft journals shall have adequate pressure lubrication and shall be furnished with plain bearings that make service convenient. 2. Timing gear A timing gear is fitted into the crankshaft and camshaft respectively. In a working cycle of an engine, the crankshaft makes two turns, and the camshaft made one, so the number of teeth of the camshaft timing gear is as many again as the crankshaft timing gear. As the opening and closing time of intake and exhaust valves is exactly fit into the crankshaft position, it is quite crucial to ensure the two timing gears of proper installation. 3. Synchronous belt As the camshaft is fixed on the cylinder head, the center distance of these two timing gears is increased. If traditional gears are still employed to drive, it will be structurally unreasonable. Thus synchronous belts are employed, which is both accurate and noiseless. Special-purpose synchronous belts are dedicated oil-resistance internal tooth flexible belt. 4. Rocker arm, rocker arm shaft Taking the rocker arm shaft as pivot, the rocker arm has its one end directly touch the cam on the camshaft, and the other end touch the valve stem top though a valve clearance adjusting bolt (there is a certain clearance when the valve is closed). The rocker arm shaft, a type of long axis part which has an oil passage at the middle, is fixed on the cylinder head

with cylinder head bolts by 5 rocker arm seats. The rocker arm shaft has 8 rocker arm assemblies in total, of which each drives one valve. (Ⅲ) Valve timing The indication of switching time of intake and exhaust valves by the turn angle of crankshaft position is called valve timing. To make full use of gas flow inertia to improve gas filling and thorough exhaust, engines open intake valves before top dead canter and close them after bottom dead center, and open exhaust valve before bottom dead center and open them after top dead center. The angle size of lag closing and engine speed, the arrangement of intake and exhaust valves and other structural parameters, all have relations.

Ⅱ. Common fault diagnosis of cam valve train 1. Valve knock The valve knock is practically the metal impact sound produced between the valve stem top and the valve clearance adjusting bolt bottom. Normally, there is also such sound, but it is low, only ticktacks. It will be obvious in cold starting, and will get lower when reaching the normal working temperature. However, when the ticktack becomes bang, it will be noise pollution, which is a fault. The major causes for such loud noise are as follows: (1) The valve clearance is large. (2) The cam of camshaft is so badly worn that the valve clearance becomes large finally. (3) Valve stems and valve guides are badly worn, exceeding the allowable value. (4) The valve clearance adjusting screws become flexible. 2. Inaccurate valve timing If the engine‘s dynamic property and economic efficiency reduce in normal working conditions, it may be caused by inaccurate valve timing. For example, a Dongfeng Xiaokang that runs normally in coastal and plain areas at lower altitudes may encounter such phenomenon when it runs plateau areas, because the valve timing in lower altitudes is substantially different from that in plateau areas. A comprehensive study shows that if the advance angle and lag angle of intakes differ by 10 from the standard value in valve timing, the power drops 4% and oil consumption rises 5%; and if they differ by 20, the power drops 8% and the oil consumption rises 12%. Apart from the altitude, there may be the following causes that lead to changes in valve timing: (1) The valve clearance is too large. (2) The cam tip of camshaft is so badly worn that the cam lift reduces. (3) The timing belt is worn. (4) The tensile force of timing belt is inadequate, and too slack. 3. Valve spring knock It is an omen of serious accidents. It shall be eliminated immediately after discovered, or valve springs will be broken, and valves will fall into the cylinder. They then will accordingly scratch the cylinder, bend connecting rods and crankshafts. The chief causes for such fault are as follows: (1) The rigidity of valve springs is small. (2) The valve springs are broken.

4. Valve leakage It is caused by bad seal of valve working cones and valve seats. The chief causes are as follows: (1) The valve and working cone of valve seat rings are badly worn.

(2) Valve stems and valve guides are badly worn so that the clearance is too large. (3) There is carbon or impurities accumulated on the valve working cone.

Ⅲ. Maintenance of cam valve train 1. Valve adjusting screw 2. Lock nut 3. Rocker arm

Screwdriver

1. Cylinder head 2. Intake manifold

A. Transmission side

1. Valve cotter

1. Valve stem oil seal 2. Screwdriver 3. Valve spring seat

1. Removal of mechanisms 1) Remove the distributor assembly and its bracket (if any). 2) Remove the exhaust manifold cover, exhaust manifold and its seal gasket. 3) Strip the intake manifold bolt, nut and reinforced plate bolt, and remove the intake manifold.

4) Remove the cylinder head cover as shown in figure 1. 5) Undo all valve adjusting screws and then rotate them reversely to close all valves, as shown in figure 2. 6) Remove the cylinder head bolt. 7) Tear down other connecting parts, hoses and wires, if any. 8) Remove the cylinder head. 9) Remove rocker arm shaft screws as shown in figure 3. 10) Remove the rocker arm shafts of intake and exhaust valves, and then strip rocker arms and rocker arm springs, as shown in figure 4. 11) Strip the camshaft off the cylinder head, as shown in figure 5. 12) Use special tools (valve lifter) to compress valve springs and then use dedicated tools (forceps) to remove valve taper cotter, as shown in figure 6. Special tools: (A): 09916—14510 (B): 09916—48210 Dedicated tool: (C): 09916—84510 13) Undo the valve lifter to remove the valve spring seat and valve spring, as shown in figure 8. 14) Remove the valve from the combustion chamber side. 15) Remove the valve oil seal and valve spring pedestal. Notice: The oil seal shall, once removed, not be used again. New oil seals must be used for re-assembly. 16) Use dedicated tools (valve guide puller) to remove valve guides, as shown in figure 9. Notice: The valve guides shall, once removed, not be used again. New valve guides (oversize) must be used for re-assembly. Special tool: (a): 09913-48010 2. Rocker arm, rocker arm shaft and camshaft Adjusting screw and rocker arm If the adjusting screw is worn, replace it. If the arc surface is worn, the rocker arm must be changed.

Straightness limit

0.02mm

Rocker arm shaft straightness Use a V-shaped block and dial indicator to inspect the straightness. If the straightness is beyond the limit, the rocker arm shaft shall be changed. Rocker arm-rocker arm shaft clearance Use a micrometer and inside dial indicator to measure rocker arm shaft diameter and rocker arm bore diameter. The difference value of two readings is rocker arm-shaft clearance, which must be within the specified range. If the clearance is beyond the limit, please change the shaft or the arm or both.

Item

Standard

Inside diameter of rocker arm shaft bore

Limit

14.985～15.005mm（465） 15.985～16.005mm（474）

——

Rocker arm shaft diameter

14.965～14.980mm（465）

Arm-shaft clearance

0.005～0.040mm（465）

0.07mm（465）

0.001～0.036mm（474）

0.09mm（474）

15.969～15.984mm（474）

——

Wear cam Use a micrometer to measure the cam height; if the height to be measured is lower than the specified limit, please change the camshaft. Cam height Intake cam Exhaust cam

Standard

Limit

36.152mm（465）

36.100mm（465）

36.148～36.344mm（474）

36.084mm（474）

36.152mm（465）

36.100mm（465）

35.900～36.060mm（474）

35.800mm（474）

Camshaft straightness 0.10mm（465） Straightness limit

0.12mm（474）

Keep the camshaft at between two ―V‖ blocks, and then use a dial indicator to measure the straightness.

If the measured straightness exceeds the limit, change the camshaft. Camshaft journal wear ·Measure the diameter of the journals at the four positions to gain four readings, and then use an inside dial indicator to measure the camshaft hole inside diameter of the cylinder head to gain four readings. The camshaft hole inside diameter of the cylinder head Seven minus camshaft journal diameter is journal clearance. If the journal clearance exceeds the limit, the camshaft shall be changed, and so shall the cylinder head if necessary.

Item Journal clearance

Camshaft diameter

Standard

Limit

0.050～0.091mm

journal

Camshaft diameter

0.15mm

hole

―a‖43.425～43.450mm

43.500～43.516mm

―b‖43.625～43.650mm

43.700～43.716mm

―c‖43.825～43.850mm

43.900～43.916mm

―d‖44.025～44.050mm

44.100～44.116mm

―e‖44.225～44.250mm

44.300～44.316mm

inside

3. Valve guide, valve and valve spring Valve guide Use a micrometer and inside dial indicator to inspect valve stems and guide clearances and read the readings of valve stem diameter and guide inside diameter. Be sure that there is more than one measuring points. If the clearance exceeds the limit, change the valve and valve guide.

Item

Standard Intake

Valve stem diameter Exhaust

Intake Valve guide inside diameter Exhaust

Intake Stem-guide clearance Exhaust

Limit

6.965～6.980mm（465） 5.465～5.480mm（474） 6.950～6.970mm（465） 5.440～5.455mm（474） 7.000～7.015mm（465） 5.500～5.512mm（474） 7.000～7.015mm（465） 5.500～5.512mm（474） 0.020～0.050mm（465） 0.020～0.047mm（474） 0.020～0.050mm（465） 0.045～0.072mm（474）

1. Valve seat

0.07mm

contact width

0.09mm

If there is no inside dial indicator, a dial indicator with a stand may be used to inspect the deviation of valve tips. Shake the valve tip in A and B directions to measure the end offset. If the end offset exceeds the limit, change the valve stem and valve guide. Valve ·Eliminate all carbon deposits from the valves. ·Inspect the wear and ablation or deformation of each valve. If necessary, change them. 1. Valve seat thickness

·Measure the thickness of valve tips; if the thickness fails to reach the specified limit, the valve must be changed. 2. 45゜

Intake

0.12mm

Valve stem end offset limit Exhaust

0.16mm

·Inspect the end wear of each valve tip. The end contacts the rocker arm intermittently in running, and will become concave or irregular shape. If necessary, use an oil stone to grind it to be smooth. If it is not smooth until grinding to the chamfer, the valve shall be changed. ·Contact zone width of the cone and valve seat: Common grinding methods are employed to produce a contact pattern, that is, spread a layer of compound (red lead for instance) over the valve cone and then turn it. The valve must be grinded with a valve grinding machine. The pattern generated on the valve cone after grinded must be a continuous ribbon, whose width must be within the specified range.

Ribbon width

Intake

1.3～1.5mm（465） 1.1～1.3mm（474）

Exhaust

Valve tip thickness Standard

Limit · Intake

0.6mm

Exhaust

0.7mm

1. Valve seat tool

0.8~1.2mm

Repair of valve seat: If the contact between the valve seat and the valve is uneven, or the valve seat contact width exceeds the specified range, it must be grinded again or must be cut for finish grinding and lapping. 1) Exhaust valve seat: use a valve seat reamer to make three cuttings as shown in the right figure. The first make a 150 cutting, the second a 600 cutting and the third a 450 cutting. The third cutting must produce a cone contact width satisfactory to requirements. 2) Intake valve seat: the cutting order is the same as the exhaust valve seat. 3）Valve grinding: Grinding valves falls into two steps: first, use coarse abrasive to grind the valve surface; second, use fine abrasive. The grinding takes conventional means, but must use valve grinding machines every time. Item Free length of valve spring

Valve spring preload

Standard

Limit

48.9mm（465）

47.6mm（465）

36.83mm（474）

35.67mm（474）

At 23.6~27.6kg, the length is 40mm (465)

At 22.0kg, the length is 40 mm (465)

At 10.7~12.5kg, the length is 31.5mm (474)

At 9.3kg, the length is 31.5mm (474)

Valve spring Refer to the given data below and inspect the springs to make sure that every spring is in good condition and has no signs of damage or elasticity weakening; the valve springs whose elasticity weakens may cause vibration, but it will not cause drops in output power due to mixture leakage resulting from reduction in valve spring elasticity.

Exhaust valve seat width

1.3～1.5mm（465），1.1～1.3mm（474）

Intake valve seat width

1.3～1.5mm（465），1.1～1.3mm（474）

Spring verticality: Use a square and plate to inspect the verticality of every spring, namely, measure the gap between the valve spring end face and the square. If the valve spring verticality exceeds the limit, it must be change.

Valve spring verticality limit

2.0mm

Section Ⅴ Lubricating System The engine adopts a lubricating system which combines forced lubrication and splash lubrication. The oil pump, of rotor type, is fixed to a crankshaft, adjacent to the crankshaft pulley. The oil is pumped out by an oil strainer and delivered to the oil filter by the oil pump. The filtered oil flows into the two oil lines in the crankcase. In one oil line, the oil will reach the crankshaft‘s main bearing shell. The oil from the crankshaft‘s main bearing shell flows through the oil lines that run through to each other to the connecting rod‘s bearing shell. The connecting rod big end has a small hole in it, through which the oil sprays out to lubricate pistons, piston rings and cylinder walls. In the other oil line, the oil runs through the oil lines in the rocker arm shaft to the cylinder head to lubricate the rocker arm, valves and camshafts. On the oil pump is fixed a relieve valve, which will release the pressure when the oil pressure exceeds about 400kPa. The overflowed oil returns to the oil pan. The functions of lubricating systems are summarized as follows: Anti-attrition: they deliver the lubricating oil to the part‘s surface in relative motion, reducing friction loss and wear. Cleaning: the lubricating oil, at a pressure, circulates on friction surfaces to clean away abrasive dust. Cooling: the lubricating oil circulates continuously, taking away friction surface heat and having a cooling effect. Sealing: the lubricating film takes up partial fit clearances, thus enhancing the tightness. Anti- corrosion: the lubricating film can separate the parts from the oxygen and corrosive substances in the air, preventing corrosion. Vibration reduction: the oil film between friction surfaces can absorb vibration and alleviate impacts, so as to play a

role in vibration reduction.

Ⅰ. Composition of engine‟s lubricating system 1. Major component The lubricating system of an engine is mainly composed of oil pan, oil strainer, oil pump, oil filter, oil pressure sensor, instrument and pipeline. Camshaft central Piston and cylinder wall journal, #3

2. Lubricating oil flow chart

Connecting rod small end

Rocker arm shaft

The lubricating oil is drawn by a strainer into the oil pump, from which the oil pressure is specified as 400kPa by a Connecting rod big end Rocker arm pressure limiting valve. The pressure oil from the oil pump then flows into the oil filter to clear away dust, Camshaft journal, #5 Crankshaft main journal impurities and colloids, and finally to the friction surfaces through several lines. Camshaft journal, #1,2,4 Distributor gear case

Cylinder saddle block oil hole (1) One line leads to the main oil passage of, and then to the main bearing of the cylinder block to provide Camshaft lubrication in the main journal bearing. The main journals of crankshaft 2 and 4Bypass havevalveoil passaged to everycenter oil hole Oil filter connecting rod journal for lubrication of connecting rod journals. The spare lubricating oil is thrown away and Cylinder wall Oil pump Safety valve splashed from the clearance with the connecting rod‘s run to cylinder walls, piston pin boss holes to make Oil filter screen lubrication. Finally, the superfluous lubricating oil returns to the oil pan by gravity. Oil pan

(2) Another line leads to the rocker arm shaft to make lubrication for rocker arms and camshaft journals. The spare oil flows out from the clearance and then returns to the oil pan through oil passages by gravity. The oil passage diagram is as shown in the right figure. 3. Major components of lubricating system (1) Oil strainer: the oil strainer is fixed on the oil pump to preliminarily filter large impurities in the oil. A 150~200 mesh screen is furnished at the inlet. The oil strainer shall keep contacting the liquid level all the time so as not to interrupt oil suction. (2) Oil pump The oil pump is fitted to the camshaft and is directly driven by the camshaft. The oil pump is furnished with a plunger-type pressure limiting valve. Adjusting the spring preloaded force can get different oil pressures. The maintenance parameters of oil pumps can be referred to the section Ⅲ of this chapter. (3) Oil filter The function of oil filters is to clear away metal abrasive dust, dust, moisture and colloids so as to ensure that the quality of the oil entering the friction surfaces meets requirements. The characteristics of engine‘s oil filters are as follows: 1) Only one oil filter plays a role in fine filtering. 2) The filter case is integrated with the filter element. Both of them are spun on the oil pump‘s oil outlet circuit at a time. The oil will, after filtered, flows into the oil passage. 3) Oil filters are disposable wearing and Consumable parts, so that they need not maintenance, only need regular replacement.

Ⅱ. Common fault diagnosis of lubricating system Though the engine bears high pressure, high temperature, high speed and alternating shock load, it will not have major failure if carefully maintained in accordance with maintenance regulations. Generally, common faults are as follows: (Ⅰ) Low oil pressure When engines run normally, the oil pressure shall stay at 200~400kPa, and shall not less than 100kPa in idle run. If it is lower than the value, it is a failure. The main causes are: (1) Low oil level (inadequate oil) (2) Improper selection of oil brand and grade (3) Distortion of oil pressure sensor or oil pressure indicator (4) Bad wear of oil pump; uneasy stabilization of oil pressure due to large clearance (5) Improper adjustment of pressure limiting valve of oil pumps (6) Poor through capacity of oil filters (7) Oil leak of lubrication line or lubricating system (Ⅱ) High oil pressure In any case, the oil pressure shall not exceed 400kPa, or the pressure is too high. Low pressure makes the lubrication unreliable, but high pressure is not only unnecessary but also wastes drive energy, which may be easy to cause oil lead of pipelines and accelerate oxidative deterioration of lubricating oil. The principal causes for high oil pressure include: (1) Great viscosity of lubricating oil (improper selection of brand) (2) Distortion of oil pressure sensors (3) Improper adjustment of pressure limiting valve (4) Blockage of oil filter elements or oil passages (Ⅲ) High oil consumption The normal oil consumption shall be 0.1‰~0.25‰ of the fuel consumption, that is, a 1,000km drive consumes 0.1-0.5L oil. If it exceeds the value, the oil consumption is too high. The chief causes for such phenomenon are as follows: (1) Bad wear of cylinders and pistons; large clearance of cylinder walls or cylinder score (2) Deterioration of the seal of piston rings; severe oil leak, reverse installation of twist rings (3) High temperature in the crankcase; ingress of oil vapor though crankcase ventilating system into the cylinder for combustion (4)Long high-load run of engines

(Ⅳ) Fast deterioration of oil Replace for deteriorated oil requires a certain mileage. If the oil deteriorates before reaching the specified mileage, it is fast deterioration. The major causes for it are as follows: (1) Large gap of cylinder walls and severe leakage cause the fresh mixture and high-temperature burnt gas to aggravate their dilution and oxidization of the oil. (2) Inadequate ventilation of crankcase causes the pressure and temperature in it high. (3) The oil filter fails. (4) The engine leaks water.

Ⅲ. Maintenance of lubricating system Maintain and change the oil and corresponding parts according to the failure symptoms above.

Ⅳ. Positive crankcase ventilation system (PCV system)

Flow direction of fresh air Flow direction of mixture

1. Throttle valve 2. Intake manifold 3. PCV When the engine is running, the mixture in the cylinder will valve 4. Cylinder head cover 5. Cylinder head scurry through the clearance between the cylinder and the 6. Cylinder block 7. Oil pan piston into the crankcase. The mixture contains a great deal of unburned gas such as carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon. The role of positive crankcase ventilation system is to prevent such ―mixture‖ discharging in the atmosphere. The operating principle of it is as follows: When the vacuum in the intake manifold reduces (throttle valve is opened), the PCV valve is fully opened under the spring pressure. Thus, large quantity of mixture in the crankcase is sucked into the intake manifold. Additionally, when the throttle valve is turned down and the vacuum in the intake manifold increases, the openness of the crankcase volume control damper is limited by the strong vacuum. Thus the mixture sucked into the intake manifold will be less. PCV hose inspection ·Check to make sure whether the PCV hoses are well connected and whether there is leakage, blockage and 1.PCV valve deformation. Replace them if necessary. PCV volume control damper inspection 1) Remove the PCV volume control damper on the cylinder head cover to fit the plug into the hole. 2) Let the engine run at idle speed. 3) Put the hands before the PCV volume control valve to check if there is vacuum; if there is no vacuum, check it to make sure whether it is blocked. If necessary, replace it. 4) After the check on vacuum, stop the engine immediately to remove the PCV volume control damper. Shake the damper to listen to whether the inspection probe has clicking sound, and change it if there is no such sound. 5) If it passes the check, fit the plug into the PCV volume control damper again. 1. PCV valve

Notice: Before adjusting the engine to idle running, make sure that the PCV valve or the hose is not clogged, or it will affect the adjusting accuracy. After the exhaust control hose is removed and the system components are maintained, the components shall be properly re-assembled when they are checked to meet the requirements, and then the lines and hoses shall be connected properly.

Section Ⅵ Engine cooling system The cooling system is to maintain the engine to work within an optimum temperature range. When the engine is working, the maximum temperature in the cylinder can be as high as 1,900~2,500℃. Especially the parts in direct touch with high-temperature gases will not work normally if not cooled down timely. The Jinbei Haixing engines adopt forced water cooling, whose structural arrangement is shown as the figure below.

1. Radiator inlet pipe 2. Radiator outlet pipe 3. Inlet pipe 4. Thermostat 5. Water pump

6. Water pump belt 7. Cylinder block 8. Cylinder head 9. HVAC inlet hose

10. HVAC outlet hose 11. Radiator 12. Liquid storage tank 13. Radiator cap

1) As the engine gradually heats up (the thermostat is closed), the circulation of cooling liquid is shown as the figure (note: do not pass the radiator)

Water pump pump Water

Cylinder block

Cylinder head

Intake manifold

When thermostat closed Inlet pipe

Temperature sensor Thermostat

2) When the cooling liquid heats to the Radiator normal temperature and the thermostat is opened, the cooling liquid still circulate as the above figure, and it will cool down through the radiator.

Ⅰ. Major component of cooling system The major components of the cooling system include: radiator, water pump, electric fan, thermostat, cooling water flume (pipeline), water temperature sensor, water thermometer, etc. 1. Radiator EFI engine radiators, structurally identical to the average engine radiators, are composed of aluminum tubes or copper tubes and cooling fins. The difference is that this radiator employs a two-gear rotary switch as its cap instead of the air-valve cap, which makes the cooling system change from average open cycle to closed cycle. It is because the change in caps that special attention shall be paid to removing them. Opening radiator caps falls into two steps: first, loosen the cap to the safety tongue lock, and then open it entirely when the system‘s working pressure drops, or the hot coolant will splash out to cause personal injury. 2. Water pump The water pump is to circulate the coolant in the cooling system to take away the heat of cylinder block and head and radiate it through radiators. EFI engines adopt a type of centrifugal impeller pump, whose housing is cast together with the cylinder block. The impeller is driven by drive belt through crankshaft driving wheel so as to put the coolant into forced circulation. 3. Electric fan The electric fan is to improve the velocity and flow of the air flowing through the radiator to enhance the radiator‘s heat-sinking capability. The fan of EFI engines is driven by a motor, which is fixed behind the radiator, and borne by a holder made of metal. The holder is furnished with a wind-guide ring and air flow reverse prevention device. Its operation is controlled by ECU based on the coolant temperature. 4. Thermostat The thermostat is to adjust the coolant‘s circulation line to meet the purpose of adjusting the temperature of cooling liquid. This model employs wax-type thermostat, which is unrepairable. If it is sure of a thermostat failure, please replace a new one.

Ⅱ. Common fault of cooling system 1. Engine overheat As the DL465Q5 EFI engine run normally, the coolant temperature ranges within 85~98oC; if it exceeds 118oC, the engine is overheated. The main causes for overheat are as follows: (1) The coolant in the cooling system is inadequate. (2) The thermostat works abnormally. (3) The tank cap is not twisted to the specified position, causing coolant overflow. (4) The air is not be drained in according with requirements when coolant is filled. (5) The water flumes of radiators and cylinder blocks are clogged. (6) The water thermometer and water temperature sensor work abnormally. (7) The cooling fan works abnormally. (8) The internal pressure of the cooling system is too high. (9) The engine runs at a high speed long. (10) The water pump belt gets slack or damaged. (11) The water property is poor. (12) The cooling system has leakage. (13) The radiator is blocked. (14) The ignition timing is subject to maladjustment. (15) The brake drags. (16) The clutch slips. 2. Engine overcooling If the cooling temperature of engines is below 80oC, it is too cold. The causes for this are as follows: (1) The thermostat valves are all opened long to be in a state of major cycle all the time. (2) The cooling fan works abnormally. 1. Water temperature sensor (3) The water thermometer and temperature sensor work abnormally. (4) The temperature of the work environment is too low. 3. Coolant outleakage If there is water below the car when parked in a place, it may be water leakage, for which the causes are as follows:

(1) The connecting water pipe is damaged or get slack. (2) The radiator has cracks. (3) The tank cap is not twisted to the required position. (4) The water pump gasket is damaged. (5) The overheat of the engine cause boiling. 4. Inner leakage of coolant If the quality of lubricating oil is found to deteriorate after a check, it may be caused by inner leakage of coolant. The main causes may be as follows: (1) The gasket of cylinder head is damaged. (2) The junction surface of cylinder head and cylinder block is not level. (3) The cylinder block has cracks. 5. Corrosion of cooling system The major causes for cooling system corrosion are as follows: (1) The cooling system is not maintained according to requirements, and the coolant is not changed according to requirements either. (2) The mixture ratio of coolant is wrong, so is the cooling liquid type. Make checks, adjustment or repairs to the faults or change corresponding parts.

Ⅲ. Repair and maintenance 1. Cooling fan The cooling fan automatically starts under the control of ECU. The technical parameters of its opening and closing are as follows.

Main technical parameters of cooling fan switch (±5℃) Opening temperature

Above 93.5℃

Closing temperature

Below 87℃

Notice: Hands, tools and clothes shall always keep away from the engine‟s cooling fan to avoid personal injury. 2. Water temperature sensor The water temperature sensor is fixed on the intake manifold. It transmits the water temperature signals to the water thermometer on the dashboard.

3. Maintenance of cooling liquid The quantity of cooling liquid poured in the cooling system is standard. The cooling liquid in the radiator expands when heated and overflows in the liquid storage tank. When the system cools down, the cooling liquid will return to the radiator. The anti-freeze liquid has a so fine anti-corrosive property that it can prevent the system producing scale and improve the boiling point. Additionally, anti-freeze liquid can reduce evaporation loss. With the premium properties above, the cooling system shall use cooling liquid all the year round, and shall be not added with pure water at any time so as not to reduce the density of cooling liquid. ―-20#‖ ethylene glycol anti-freeze liquid is used in most areas or in winters where the minimum temperature is above -20℃; and ―-40#‖ ethylene glycol anti-freeze liquid is used in winter in North East, Xinjiang and Inner Mongol and other areas where the minimum temperature is below -20℃. When the cooling liquid is reduced by consumption, the anti-freeze liquid of the same sort shall be added. Notice: In any case, neither alcohol or methanol cooling liquid, nor ordinary water can be poured into the cooling system, or it will be damaged. Even if there is no desired cooling liquid on market, the cooling liquid of 70% water and 30% ethylene glycol would be used to realize corrosion prevention and lubrication. The following is the table of anti-freeze liquid‟s proportion and volume: o

C

－16

-36

％

30

50

Volumetric ratio

30/70

50/50

Freezing temperature

Anti-free ze protector

Concentration of anti-freeze/anticorrosive cooling liquid Mixing proportion with cooling water (ethylene glycol/water)

Cooling liquid volume (L)

Cooling liquid level

Engine radiator and HVAC

1.3

Liquid storage tank

0.6

Others

2.9

Total

4.8

Check on liquid level: open the engine hood to check the level of the liquid in the tank; the check on cooling liquid level does not require removing the radiator cap. Warning: To avoid scald: Do not open the liquid storage tank cap when the cooling liquid is “boiling”. Do not open the radiator cap when the engine and radiator do not cool down. If the caps of the liquid storage tank and radiator are opened too early, the boiling liquid and steam will puff up suddenly under pressure. When the engine cools down, check the level of the liquid in the liquid storage tank. Normally, the cooling liquid level shall stat between the FULL and LOW (L) mark lines. If the level is below the LOW (L) mark, the liquid storage tank cap shall be removed to add cooling liquid of the same proportion to raise it to the FULL (F) mark; then cover the cap and align the mark on the liquid storage tank to that on the cap.

1. Liquid storage tank 2. Maximum level mark 3. Minimum level mark 4. Liquid storage tank cap 5. Alignment mark 6. Hose to water

Notice: ·If the anti-freeze liquid of the same quality is use, it is unnecessary to add other aseptic or protective agent to provide further protection of the system. ·In covering the liquid storage tank cap, the arrow marks on both the tank and the cap shall be aligned. 4. Maintenance of cooling system Warning: To prevent scald, do not open the radiator cap when the engine and radiator do not cool down. If the caps of the liquid storage tank and radiator are opened too early, the boiling liquid and steam will puff up suddenly under pressure. The cooling system shall be maintained according to the following method: 1) Check the cooling system to make sure whether it has leakage or damage. 2) When the engine cools down, remove the radiator cap and use pure water to clean the cap and the filling orifice. 3) Check the cooling liquid level to see if it is proper. 4) Use a pressure tester to check the tightness of the cooling system and radiator cap. If the radiator cap is necessary to change, choose

1. Thermostat cap drain bolt 2. Thermostat cap 3. Radiator water service hose

the dedicated ones. Notice: When the radiator cap is fitted into the radiator, be sure the pipe fittings are parallel to the radiator. 5) Tighten the hose clamp to check all hoses; in case the hoses have cracking, expanding or other damage, they shall be changed. 6) Clean the front of radiators. 7) Use a pressure tester to check whether the radiator cap is able to maintain a 90kPa pressure. If the radiator cap is necessary to change, choose the dedicated ones. Cleaning and refilling of cooling system 1) Remove the radiator cap after the engine cools down Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise to the ―stop‖ (stop sign). (Do not press down it in turning) press it down and continue turning it counterclockwise when the pressure releases (fizzing).

1. Pressure tester 2. Radiator 3. Radiator cap/cap (including thermostat cover)

2) After the radiator cap is removed, the engine shall continue running till the radiator‘s upper end hose gets hot (which means that the thermostat is opened and the cooling liquid flows through the system). 3) Stop the engine and discharge the cooling liquid.

4) Tighten the water drain plug to fill soft water till the system is filled; then start the engine again until the radiator‘s upper end rubber hose get hot. 5) Repeat the step 3) and 4) till the discharged liquid becomes nearly colorless. 6) Drain the cooling system and screw up the water drain plug. 7) Remove the liquid storage tank and open its cap to pour out all the liquid; then use soap and water to scrub its interior; finally rinse it with clear water before fitting the liquid storage tank.

1. Radiator 2. Water drain bolt

8) Fill the quality anti-freeze liquid into the radiator and liquid storage tank. Fill the liquid first to the full level mark ―FULL (F)‖ on the lower part of radiator filling orifice and the liquid storage tank, and cover the liquid storage tank cap; remove the HVAC hose and loosen the venting plug of the thermostat to exhaust the air in the cooling system; then fill the cooling liquid till the level rises to the filling orifices of the radiator and liquid storage tank. 9) Remove the radiator cap to run the engine till the radiator‘s upper end hose gets hot. 10) Stop the engine to cool down, and then fill the cooling liquid into the liquid storage tank; then cover the radiator cap, making sure the pipe joint on the cap are parallel to the radiator. Tension of water pump belt

Warning: The battery negative wire shall be first removed before checking and adjusting the tension of the belt. Refer to the “warning” in the “Maintenance of cooling system”. 1) Check the belt to make sure whether there are cracks, ruptures, deformation, wear and cleaning; change it if necessary; the step of replacing it can be referred to the ―Water pump belt‖ in this section. 2) Check the belt tension. If the belt sinks 6-9mm when pressed by a thumb (about 980N), it means that the tension is proper.

1. 10kg (22 lbs) 2. Adjusting bolt

Belt tension: “a”: 6~9mm sinkage Notice: In replacing new belts, the tension shall be adjusted to 5~6mm. 3) If the belt is too tight or too slack, it can be adjusted to be suitable by moving the engine‘s position. 4) Tighten the adjusting bolt of the belt and the fixed bolt of the generator. 5) Connect the battery negative wire.

Ⅳ. In-car maintenance Warning: Give a check to make sure the cooling liquid cools down before all the components of the cooling system are removed. Make sure that the battery negative ground wire has be removed before stripping the components. 1. Discharge of cooling liquid

1. Radiator 2. Water drain bolt

1) Remove the radiator cap. 2) Slowly slacken the water drain bolt to discharge cooling liquid. 3) After the cooling liquid is discharged, the water drain bolt must be tightened before refilling it. 4) Fill cooling liquid (refer to ―Maintenance of Cooling Liquid) Removal: 1) Drain the cooling system

1. Thermostat cap 2. Thermostat bolt

2) Loosen the pipe clamps of the cooling system, and then remove all the pipes of the system. Installation:

Assemble all the removed clamps and pipes in the reverse order of their disassembly, while pay attention to the following aspects: ·Fasten all the pipe clamps. · Refill the cooling liquid of proper proportion into the cooling system; refer to the ―Maintenance of Cooling Liquid‖ in the above section. ·While the water pipes are fitted into the pump, a new ―O‖ seal ring shall be used.

2. Thermostat Caution: Do not remove the thermostat cover. Removal 1) Discharge the cooling liquid and tighten the drain bolt. 2) Remove the thermostat cap from the intake manifold.

1. Air release valve 2. Thermostat seal block

3) Detach the thermostat. air release valve Check 1) Make sure the air release valve of the thermostat is clean; if it is clogged, the engine will overheat. 2) Make a check to make sure that there are no foreign bodies, which will impair valve seat‘s tightness. 3) Check to figure out whether the thermostat gasket is damaged, aged or otherwise impaired. 4) Check the flexibility of the thermostat wax cylinder by the following methods: a) Immerse the thermostat in water and heat it up. b) Check whether the valve opens at the specified temperature. c) If the valve opens below or above the specified temperature range, it means the thermostat is damaged, and it will cause the engine to get supercooled or overheated if remaining in use. Installation Thermostat working parameter Temperature when the valve starts opening

82oC

Temperature when the valve fully opens

95oC

1. Thermostat 2. Thermometer 3. Heating furnace

1) Fix the thermostat on the correct position. 2) Fit the thermostat into the intake manifold, and tighten the bolt according to the specified moment. 3) Fill the cooling liquid of proper proportion. 4) Check all parts for leakage after they are assembled. 3. Water pump belt 1. Thermostat 2. Inlet manifold

1) Remove the battery negative wire.

2) Unscrew the drive belt‘s adjusting screw and the generator‘s set screw. Note: in maintaining cars equipped with air conditioners, the compressor drive belt shall be first removed, and then the water pump belt. 3) Move the generator to slacken the belt and take it down. Installation 1) Fit the belt to the water pump pulley, crank pulley and generator pulley. (in repairing cars with air conditioners, compressor belt shall be installed as well). 1. Water pump belt 2) Adjust the belt tension. 2. Adjusting screw 3. Set screw Adjust the tension of the compressor drive belt. Refer to the above section for the adjustment method. 3) Tighten the water pump belt‘s adjusting screw and set screw. 4) Connect the batter negative wire. Installation and adjustment Refer to the section of ―Water Pump Belt Tension‖ for check and adjustment of water pump belts. 4. Radiator Removal 1) Remove the battery negative wire. 2) Unscrew and pluck the water drain bolt to discharge the cooling liquid in the cooling system.

1. Radiator 2. Water drain bolt

3) Remove the plug connectors of the cooling fan motor. 4) Remove the front bumper. 5) Remove the radiator support. 6) Remove the radiator‘s inlet and outlet hoses, as well as the hoses of the liquid storage tank on the radiator. 7) Remove the radiator of the fan motor.

Check: ·Check if the radiator has leakage or damage. ·Straighten the bent radiator fins. Cleaning Clean the external surface of the radiator core to keep good ventilation. Installation Assemble them in the reverse order of disassembly. Notice:

1. Bolt 2. Air-conditioning condenser (if any)

· Refill proper cooling liquid into the cooling system; refer to the section ―Maintenance of Cooling Liquid‖. ·Check all connectors for leakage after installed. 5. Water pump Removal 1) Remove the battery negative wire. 2) Drain the cooling system. 3) Remove the front seat. 4) Remove the gear lever and brake handle, as well as the central components in the engine compartment.

Water pump

5) Slacken the water pump drive belt, and then remove the water pump pulley and the belt. In repairing cars with air conditioners, the compressor belt shall be first removed and then the water pump belt. 6) Remove the timing belt and tension pulley. 7) Take down the water pump assembly Check: ·Rotate the water pump manually to check whether it runs steadily; if it fails to turn flexibly or makes noises, if shall be changed. ·Check the water pump impellers to see whether they are damaged; change the assembly if necessary. Notice: ·Do not disassemble the water pump to check the impellers. Installation: 1) Apply sealant to the new pump gasket before fitted

to the cylinder block. 2) Fix a rubber seal between the water pump and the oil pump, as well as between the water pump and the cylinder head. 3) Install bolts and tighten them, with the torque value as specified. 4) Install the timing tension pulley wheel, tension pulley, tension pulley spring, timing belt and timing belt cover. 5) Install the crank pulley, water pump pulley and water pump belt. 6) Adjust the water pump belt tension according to the former figure; as for the cars with air conditions, the air conditioner drive belt shall be adjusted.

1. Rubber seal

7) Connect the battery negative wire. 8) Fill cooling liquid into the cooling system. 9) Install the central components in the engine compartment, and then adjust the parking brake and install the gear lever. 10) Refer to the section ―Installation of Front Seat‖ to install the front seat. 11) Check all parts for leakage after assembly. 12) Adjust the tension of the water pump belt and air conditioner belt (if an air conditioner is equipped). Tightening torque: (a) 9-12N·m

Section Ⅶ Engine starting system To make a static engine start operating, an external force must be exercised to turn the engine‘s crankshaft so as to let the cylinder suck in inflammable mixtures, which are compressed and ignited to produce a strong power to push down the piston and thus to drive the crankshaft to turn. In this way, the engine automatically begins working cycle. The system from turning the engine‘s crankshaft by an external force to the engine beginning idling automatically is called starting system.

Ⅰ. Composition of starting system The starting system circuit is composed of battery, ignition switch, starting motor, solenoid switch, one-way clutch, flywheel ring gear and relevant wires. This section deals with the starting motor alone. 1.

Starting motor circuit

·As the ignition switch closes, the solenoid switch coil produces a magnetic field. ·When the plunger and the gear drive cable move to make the pinion and the engine‘s flywheel gear in mesh, and the solenoid switch contacts close, the starting begins. ·When the engine is starting, the pinion overdrive clutch protects the armature to prevent the starter overrunning till

the switch is opened. Then the return spring disengages the pinion. The circuit diagram is as shown below.

Solenoid switch Pull-in coil Holding coil Solenoid switch contact Plunger

Pinion

drive

Ignition and starter switch

cable Pinion

drive

cable

Pinion and overdrive clutch

Starting motor

Battery

2. Starting motor It consists of stator assembly, armature assembly, overdrive clutch assembly, solenoid switch assembly, front shell, rear shell, brush support and drive cable (see the figure below). The solenoid switch assembly and parts on the starting motor are enclosed in the shell so as to avoid damage from dirt and splash. Annotation: The positions marked with “A” in the figure below shall be applied with grease before installation.

Ⅱ. Common fault diagnosis of starting system The conditions due to starting system faults are as follows: ·The starting motor fails to operate (or operate at a slow speed). ·The starting motor operates but fails to start the engine. ·Abnormal noise Proper diagnoses must be made to confirm where the fault occurs, for instance battery, wiring harness (including starting motor switch), starting motor or engine. Do not disassemble the starting motor only because it fails to operate. Check the items listed in the below table to examine the failure causes (examine one item after another according to the table below). 1) Fault conditions 2) Battery terminals (including ground wire terminal at the engine side) and starting motor terminals 3) Battery discharge 4) Installation of starting motor

1. Starting motor assembly

2. Solenoid switch block

3. Gasket

4, 5. Nut

6. Gasket

7. Drive fork block

8. Starting engine bolt

9. Nut

10. Drive end shield

11. Starting engine bolt

12. Lock ring

13. Front support bearing

14. Stator

15. Brush

16. One-way clutch component

17. Armature

18. Rear end cap

19. Brush pressure spring

20. Stay bolt

21. Sealing gasket

22. Tripping spring

23. Positioning chuck plate

24. Rear cover

25. Screw

1. Armature 4. Snap ring 2.Overdrive clutch 3. Pinion upper snap ring ―A‖: apply grease

Problems

Causes

Troubleshooting method

Solenoid switches have no operation sound: ·The battery runs out or low. ·The battery voltage is too low due to deterioration.

Recharge

·The battery terminals are in poor contact.

Change the battery

·The ground wire terminal gets slack.

Tighten it up or change it

·The fuse gets slack or blown.

Tighten it up

·The ignition switch and solenoid switch are in poor contact.

Tighten it up or change it

·The lead connection becomes flexible. ·The circuit between the ignition switch and solenoid switch are opened. The motor fails to operate.

·The pull-in coil circuit is opened. ·The brush holder is slackened or worn. ·The plunger and pinion do not rotate smoothly.

Change Tighten it up Repair or change Change the solenoid switch Repair or change Repair

Solenoid switches have no operation sound:

Change the solenoid switch

·The power supply contact is burnt out or the solenoid switch is in poor contact.

Repair or change

·The brush holder is not firm or worn ·The elasticity of the brush spring declines. ·The rectifier is burnt out. ·The coil is badly earthed.

Change Change the armature Repair Repair Repair

·The armature isolated layer is short circuited. ·The crank rotation is hindered. If the battery and wires have no problem, please check the starting motor ·The solenoid switch is in poor contact. ·The armature isolated layer is opened. The starting motor does operate but the speed is slow and torque is small.

·The rectifier is disconnected, burnt out or worn. ·The coil is badly earthed. ·The brush is worn. ·The elasticity of the brush spring declines. ·The end bushing is burnt out or abnormally worn.

Change the solenoid switch Change Repair or change the armature Repair Change the brush Change the spring Change the bushing

The starting motor operates but the engine fails to start.

·The pinion tip is worn.

Change the overdrive clutch

·The overdrive clutch does not rotate smoothly.

Repair

·The overdrive clutch slips.

Repair, change

·The pinion teeth are worn.

Repair the flywheel

·The brush is abnormally worn

Change

·The pinion teeth or pinion drive teeth are worn.

Change the pinion or the flywheel Repair or change

Noise ·The pinion does not rotate smoothly (cannot return).

Lubricate

·The parts lack lubricating oil.

The starting motor fails to stop.

·The solenoid switch contacts are melted.

Change the solenoid switch

·Short circuit occurs between the solenoid switch coils (isolated layer short circuited).

Change the solenoid switch Change

·The ignition switch fails to return.

Ⅲ. Repair and maintenance of starter 1. Removal and reassembly 1) Remove the battery negative wire. 2) Remove the solenoid switch wire and battery wire from the starting motor terminals. 3) Unscrew the two mounting screws. 4) Remove the starting motor.

1. Wire 4. Nut 2. Nut A: pull to disengage the internal hook 3. Solenoid switch

5) Remove the nuts from the solenoid switch and disconnect the wires. 6) Remove the two nuts, and take out the solenoid switch by pulling the solenoid switch tail so as to detach the internal hook from the drive cable. 7) Remove the shell bolts and then pull out the rectifier end cap. 8) Remove the insulator and brush spring, and then dismantle

1. Brush 2. Brush spring 3. Brush holder

the brush holder. 9) Remove the stator, armature and drive cable. 10) Use a snap ring plier and driver to remove the armature and then pull out the pinion snap ring and overdrive clutch. Note: Do not remove the solenoid switch; if necessary, replace it in assembly. 11) The reassembly shall be performed in the reverse order. Special tool (A): 09900—06107 1. Armature 2. Chuck ring 3. Pinion snap ring 4. Overdrive clutch

Reassembly

1. Armature 2. Drive cable shield

3. Drive end

1) Check the parts (seen the section of check), which shall be changed if necessary 2) Apply grease as shown in the figure before installing the overdrive clutch, and then fix the locating snap ring with a snap ring “A”: grease 9900-25010 3) The drive cable shall, after applied with grease, be fitted to the armature, and then they are installed with the drive end shield.

1. Armature 2. Drive cable 3. Drive end shield ―A‖: apply grease

“A”: grease 99000-25010 4) Install the stator and brush holder, and then fix the brush with four springs, and finally install the insulator. Notice: ·In installing brushes, be sure that the grease on the brushes and rectifiers is wiped off. ·Make sure the brush parts have no unnecessary contact with other parts. 5) Posterior to apply grease inside the bushing, install the back cover.

1. Brush 2. Brush spring 3. Brush holder

“A”: grease 99000-25010 6) Replace the solenoid switch and its cover; if necessary, apply grease to the plunger. “A”: grease 99000-25010 7) Clasp the drive cable with the solenoid switch plunger, and then fasten the solenoid switch assembly with nuts. 8) Connect the wires in place, and then check the operation of the solenoid switch. Notice: ·Before screwing the nuts, make sure the plunger is well connected with the drive cable.

1. Solenoid switch 2. Bushing ―A‖: apply grease 3. Plunger

·Make sure the bushing air holes are downward. Performance tests shall be conducted when the assembly is completed. 2. Check Plunger Check the plunger for wear, and change it if necessary. Solenoid switch Push in the plunger and let it go, then the plunger shall quickly return to its original position. Change it if necessary. ·Disconnection test of pull-in coil Check the solenoid switch to make sure whether its ―S‖ terminal and ―M‖ terminal are connected; if not, it means the coil is disconnected, and it shall be changed. Brush · Measure the brush‘s length, and change it if necessary. Brush length limit: ≥12.0mm

1. Terminal ‗S‘ 2. Terminal ‗M‘

Brush holder ·Check the brush to see if it is corroded or ruptured; check the brush holder to figure out whether is corroded or insulated; if necessary, change them in assembly. Armature

1. Terminal ‗S‘

·Earth test Insulation shall be provided between the rectifier plate and the armature core, which can be tested with an

ohmmeter. ·Disconnection test Check the continuity between rectifier plates; if there is no continuity at any test point, it means the circuit is disconnected, and then the armature must be change.

·Support the armature on a V-shaped block to check if the rectifier is eccentric; if it has problems, cut it by a lathe. Rectifier roundness limit (maximum): 0.4mm

1. Armature 2. V-shaped block 3. Magnetic gauge stand 4. Micrometer

·Use a micrometer to measure the rectifier‘s outside diameter; if the diameter is below the limit, change the rectifier or the armature. Rectifier outside diameter limit (minimum): 27mm ·Polish the surface with emery cloth and check the mica depth. Rectifier insulator‟s depth “a” limit (minimum): 0.2mm (0.008in.) Stator Check if the exciting coils conduct. There shall be continuity between the following terminals. 1) Between terminals 2) Between terminals 3) Between the terminal and C terminal (the surface of metal pieces of the stator) Overdrive clutch Check the pinion to make sure whether it has wear, damage or other abnormalities. Turn the clutch in the driving direction to check whether the clutch is locked and can turn smoothly in a reverse direction; if necessary, change it.

A: Free rotation

1. Mica insulator 2. Rectifier plate

Material

Recommended Suzuki product

Use

·Armature shaft Super grease A

·Overdrive clutch

(99,000-25,010)

·Rectifier end shield

Lithium grease ·Drive cable Performance test Warning: Every time the test must be completed within 3-5 seconds to avoid burning out the coils. Pull-in test Connect the wires as shown in the figure and check if the pinion (overdrive clutch) turns outwards; if it fails to move, change the solenoid switch. Notice:

1. Terminal ‗S‘ 2. Terminal ‗M‘ 3. Wire (motor switch)

The exciting coil must be disconnected with the terminal „M‟ before the test. Holding test Connect the wire as shown in the figure above when the iron core extends out, and then remove the negative wire from the terminal ‗M‘. The check if the iron core still extends out; if it contracts inwards, the solenoid switch shall be changed. Pinion (plunger) return test Follow the last step to remove the negative wire and give a check to make sure the pinion quick return inwards, as shown in the right figure. No-load performance test Connect the test leads as shown in the right figure and check if the motor has operational failure and make sure the pinion rotate outwards; additionally, check if the

armature indicates the specified current. Specified current: 50A at 11V. Technical requirement Servicing materials Special tool

09900-06107 clasp forceps (open mouth type) Voltage

12V

Output power

0.8KW

Rated operating time

30s

Rotation direction

Counterclockwise (see from the pinion side)

Brush length

16.0mm

Teeth number of pinion

8

Performance

At about 20oC

Conditions

Rated load

No-load characteristic

11V

Below 50A (above 5,000 r/min )

Load characteristic

9.5V

Below 5.0N·m (

Braking current

5.5V

Below 430A (above 6.5 N·m)

working voltage of solenoid switch

above 1,200 r/min)

Below 8V

Section Ⅷ Engine assembly The assembly steps of engines are reverse to their disassembly steps, but some necessary measures must be taken to make sure that the assembled engines meet the factory requirements. Notice:

·All parts must be cleaned. · Make sure to apply oil to main crankshaft journals, main journal bearings, thrust bearings, journal pins, connecting rod bearings, pistons, piston rings and cylinder, oil passages and surfaces for lubrication. ·Main bearings, bearing caps, connecting rods, connecting rod bushes, connecting rod caps, pistons and piston rings are combined parts, so they shall be not disrupted, but be fitted to their original position.

1. Cylinder block 2. Upper part of bearing 3. Sump

Ⅰ. Assembly of internal parts of engines

1. Crankshaft

Thrust bearing

1) Fix the main bearing shell on the cylinder block. Of the two main bearing shells, one has a sump. The one with a sump is fixed on the cylinder block, and the other one without a sump on the main bearing cap. Make sure the color of the both shells are the same. Sump 2) A thrust bearing shall be mounted between No. 2 and No.3 cylinders. The side with a sump shall face the crank arm. 3) Place the crank on the cylinder block. 4) Assemble the bearing caps from the belt pulley side in the increasing order from 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Make sure the arrow marks (on every bearing cap) aim at the crankshaft pulley side. For bearing cap bolts, tightening them gradually and evenly is of importance. Make sure the 5 bearing caps are tightened evenly and gradually as required to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 43~48N·m (465), 52~56N·m (474) Notice: After the bearing cap bolts are tightened up, manually turn the crankshaft to give a check, making sure the crankshaft rotates smoothly. 1. Outer rotor 2. Inner rotor

1. Crankshaft pulley side 2. Arrow mark

2. Oil pump and rear cover 1) All assembly parts shall be cleaned and dried. 2) Apply a thin layer of engine oil to the internal surfaces of the inner/outer rotors, oil seal lip, oil pump casing and header. 3) Fix the outer/inner rotors on the pump casing. 4) Mount the rotor header, and tighten the five screws. When the rotor header is well mounted, check and make sure the rotor rotate smoothly. Tightening torque (a): 9~12N·m 5) Fit the two oil pump pins and oil pump seal gasket to the cylinder block; the seal gasket shall a new one. 6) To avoid the seal lip being upturned or damaged, when the oil pump is fixed on the crankshaft, a special tool (oil seal guide bush) shall be fit to the crankshaft and it shall be applied with engine lubricating oil. 7) Mount the oil pump on the crankshaft and cylinder block.

1. Crankshaft

Of the 7 oil pump bolts, the four 1# bolts shall be shorter than the three 2# bolts. As shown in the figure, fit the 1# and 2# bolts in place, and tighten them to the specified torque. After the oil pump is installed, check and make sure the oil seal lip does not upturn, and then remove the special tool. Tightening torque (a): 9~12N·m 1. 1# bolt (short) 2. 2# bolt (long) 8) The edge of the oil seal gasket may bulge. In this case, cut it off with a sharp cutter so as to make the edge smooth and flush with the pump casing and cylinder block.

Use a new seal gasket. Do not use the removed old seal gasket. Before installing it, the seal lip shall be applied with engine oil. Tighten the rear cover bolts up in accordance with the specified technical conditions. After installing the rear cover, the edge of the seal gasket may bulge; in this case, cut it off so as to make it flush with the cylinder block and the rear cover. Tightening torque (a): 9~12N·m

Arrow mark

Piston

9) Install the rear cover and the seal gasket

mounted position of piston pin‘s snap spring Snap spring

Connecting rod Crankshaft pulley side

The installation shall locate the snap spring end clearance within the range pointed by the arrow points

3. Piston 1) Fix the piston pin on the piston and the connecting rod. After applying engine oil to the piston pins and piston pin holes in the piston and connecting rod, assemble them according to the following method, and insert the piton pins into the piston and connecting rod, and finally fit the piston pin snap spring. Note: the installation shall locate the snap spring end

1. No. 1 piston ring 2. No. 2 piston ring 3. Scrapper ring

clearance within the range pointed by the arrow. 2) Fix the piston ring on the piston. ·In installing, notice that No. 1 piston ring has different marks from No. 2 piston ring. In fixing them on the piston, the mark side of them shall align with the top of the piston. ·No. 1 piston ring is different from No. 2 in thickness, shape and the color in contact with the cylinder wall surface. Please notice to distinguish both of them in disassembly. ·In mounting scrapper rings, the gasket shall be first mounted before the two scrapper rings.

1. Arrow mark 2. No.1 piston ring end clearance 3. No.2 piston ring end clearance and scrapper ring gasket clearance 4. Scrapper ring upper guide clearance 5. Scrapper ring lower guide clearance 6. Intake side 7. Exhaust side

3) Once No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings and the scrapper rings are mounted, arrange their clearances as shown in the figure.

1. Crank pulley side 2. Flywheel side

1. Connecting rod bearing cap 2. Arrow mark 3. Crank pulley side 4. Bearing cap nut

4) Apply engine oil to the piston, piston ring, cylinder wall, connecting rod and piston pin before installation. 5) Attach a hose to the connecting rod bot. In installing connecting rods and piston assembly, these hoses can protect piston pins and connecting rod bolts against damage. 6) When the piston and connecting rod assembly are installed in the cylinder, the arrow mark on the piston top shall point to the crank pulley side. 7) In installing the piston and connecting rod assembly in the cylinder, a special tool (piston ring compressor) shall be employed to squeeze the piston ring to install the crankshaft in place; use a hammer‘s wooden handle to tap the piston top so as to fit it to the cylinder hole; hold the piston ring compressor firmly to make it abut against the cylinder block till the piston ring totally enters the cylinder. Special tool: A: 09916-7310 8) Install connecting rod bearing cap: The arrow mark on the bearing cap shall be aimed at the crank pulley side, and then tighten bearing cap nuts according to specified technical conditions. Tightening torque (a): 28-32N·m (465), 33-37N·m (474) 4. Oil pump strainer and oil pan 1) Install oil pump strainer: Install sealing member on the position as shown in the figure. First tighten up the strainer bolt, and then screw the bracket bolt according to the specified torque. Tightening torque: (a): 9~12N·m 2) Clean up the upper and lower oil pans and cylinder assembly surface. Eliminate the old sealant and dirt on the assembly surface; after this, apply silicone sealant to the oil pan‘s assembly surface repeatedly as shown in the figure. “A”: sealant 99000-31150 3) Fix the upper oil pan on the cylinder block, and then fit the lower oil pan to the upper oil pan; once both oil pans are well

1. Sealing member 2. Strainer 3. Bracket

fitted, fix the fixing bolts on the middle part and tighten them up: move the wrench outward to tighten one bolt at a time. Tighten up the bolts and nuts according to the specified tightening torque. Tightening torque (a): 6~8N·m (465), 9~12N·m (474) Fit the seal ring and oil drain plug on the oil pan. Tightening torque (b)：35~40N·m (465), 30~37N·m (474) 5. Flywheel Install flywheels

1. Flywheel bolt

Use special tools to fix the flywheel and tighten its bolts up according to the specified tightening torque. Special tool: (A): 09924-17810 Tightening torque (a): 40~45N·m (465), 76~78 N·m (474)

1. Valve guide projection (14mm 10.55in) 6. Cylinder head 1) Before the cylinder guide is fit to the cylinder head, special tools shall be used (12mm reamer) to trim it so as to eliminate burs. Special tool: (A): 09916-37310 2) Fix the valve guide on the cylinder head. Heat the cylinder head evenly to a temperature of 80℃~100℃ (176℉~212℉), at which the cylinder is hard to deform. Then use a special tool to press the valve guide in the holes till the special tool (valve guide installer) touches the cylinder head. After mounted in place, the valve guide shall project 14mm out of the cylinder head. Special tools:

(B): 09916-57321 (C): 09917-88210 Notice: ·Do no reuse the removed old valve guides, but use the new ones (oversize). Valve guide hole diameter (intake and exhaust)

12.030~12.048mm

Oversize valve guide

0.03mm

Projecting distance of valve guides (intake and exhaust)

14mm

·The intake guide is identical to the exhaust guide. 3) Use special tools (1mm reamer) to trim the valve guide hole; after this, clean the hole. Special tool: (D)：09916-34520 4) Fix the valve spring support on the cylinder head.

1. Valve guide

5) Fit the new valve oil seat on the valve guide. After applying engine oil to the valve oil seals and the main shaft of the special tool (valve oil seal installer), mount the oil seal on the main shaft; and then manually press the special tool to fit the valve oil seal on the valve guide. After it is installed, check and make sure the valve oil seal is properly mounted on the valve guide. Special tool: (E): 09917-98210 Notice: ·Do not reuse the removed valve oil seal, and make sure the valve is sealed. Install new valve oil seals ·In installing, do not use hand hammers or other things to knock or strike the special tool ever, but press the special tool by hands alone to fix the valve oil seal on the guide. Knocking or striking special tools may cause damage to oil seals, resulting to oil burning. 6) Fix the valve on the guide. Before fixing the valve on the guide, apply engine oil to the

1. Valve stem oil seal

valve stem oil seal, valve guide holes and valve stem. 7) Valve spring and spring retainer Every valve spring has a top (large pitch end) and a bottom (small pitch end). To make sure the spring is in place, its bottom (small pitch end) shall touch the base (valve spring seat end side) 8) Use a special tool (lift valve) to compress the valve spring and fit the two valve cotters in the valve stem groove. Special tools: (A): 09916-14510 1. Large pitch 2. Small pitch 3. Valve spring retainer side 4. Valve spring seat end side

(B): 09916-48210 (C): 09916-84510 9) Install intake manifold and exhaust manifold. Tightening torque

1. Valve cotter

18~23N•m (465) 23~28N•m (474) 10) Install cylinder head seal gasket Mount new cylinder gaskets as shown in the figure, that is, the ―TOP‖ mark on the seal gasket lies on the cylinder head gasket at the shaft pulley side, with right side up (to the cylinder head) 11) Fix the cylinder head on the cylinder block.

1. Cylinder head seal gasket 2. Shaft pulley side 3. Transmission side

After applying engine oil to the cylinder head bolts, tighten them up one after another by a wrench in the order as shown in the figure, and then screw the bolts according to the specified torque. Tightening torque: (a)：55~60N·m (465) 58~71N·m (474)

―1‖ : Camshaft pulley side ―2‖ : Distributor side

12) Apply engine oil to the cam and journal on the camshaft as well as the oil seal on the cylinder head. 13) Fix the camshaft on the cylinder head from the transmission housing side. 14) Apply engine oil to the rocker arm and rocker arm shaft. 15) Fit on the rocker arm, spring and rocker arm shaft. the two types of rocker arm shaft are different. To identify

them, the dimension shall be marked at the echelon end as shown in the right figure. Install intake rocker arm shaft, with tis echelon end pointing to the camshaft pulley side. Install exhaust rocker arm shaft, with its direction reverse to the intake rocker arm shaft.

Intake rocker arm shaft

Camshaft pulley side 16) As shown in the figure, when the rocker arm, spring and rocker arm shaft are installed, the rocker arm shaft bolts shall be tightened to the specified torque. Tightening torque

Exhaust rocker arm shaft 1. 14mm (0.55in.) 2. 15mm (0.59in.)

(b): 9~12N·m Notice: Valve adjusting bolts and nuts shall be preassembled before installing rocker arms. 7. Camshaft and crankshaft timing belt pulley 1) First, fix the rear case seals and grommets on the timing belt rear case, and then fit the gasket to the grommet.

1. Intake side 2. Exhaust side

2) Install camshaft timing belt pulley Lock the camshaft by a special toll, and tighten the belt pulley bolts to a specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 55~60N·m (465)

57~61N·m (474)

Special tool:

1. Timing belt pulley rear case 2. Camshaft belt pulley 3. Belt pulley locating pin 4. Belt pulley bolt

(A): 09917-68227 3) Fix the tension pulley bottom plate on the tension pulley. Insert the lock pawl of the tension pulley bottom plate into the holes. 4) Install the tension pulley, tension pulley bottom plate, spring and spring buffer. Still, do no use wrenches to tighten the tension pulley bolts and stud bolts, but use hands alone. Check and make sure the tension pulley bottom plate to move along the arrow direction as shown in the figure so as to allow the tension pulley to move in the same direction. If the bottom plate fails to move with the tension pulley, both of them shall be removed again, and once more insert the bottom plate‘s lock pawl in the holes in the tension pulley. 5) Before fixing the timing belt on the camshaft belt pulley and crankshaft timing belt pulley, the cylinder head cap shall be

Valve adjusting nut Valve adjusting screw

Tension pulley

Tension pulley bottom plate Lock pawl locking hole

removed. When the cylinder head cap is removed, unscrew the valve adjusting nuts first, and then the valve adjusting nuts in intake and exhaust rocker arms. Turn the camshaft freely. In fixing the timing belt on the (two) belt pulleys, tense the belt correctly by the elasticity of the tension pulley. Adjusting screw torque of intake and exhaust rocker arm: 18~20N•m（465）

1. Tension pulley belt 4. Tension pulley 2. Tension pulley stud bolt 5. Spring 3. Tension pulley bottom plate 6. Spring buffer

10~13N•m（474） 6) In case the camshaft fails to rotate freely, and the belt cannot be correctly tensed the tension pulley, the camshaft belt pulley shall be turned clockwise after all valve adjusting screws are slackened, as shown in the figure. All the timing marks on the camshaft belt pulley shall aim at the ―V‖ sign at the belt side cover. 7) The method of installing timing belt locating slot is as follows: aiming the concave side at the oil pump, and then install the slider and timing belt pulley. The correct positions where these parts are installed are as shown in the figure. After the crankshaft is locked, tighten the belt pulley bolt.

1. Camshaft timing pulley 3. ―V‖ sign 2. Timing mark 4. Belt side cap

Tightening torque of crankshaft timing belt pulley (a): 55~60N·m (465) 120~130 N·m (474) 8) Turn the crankshaft clockwise to mate the 17mm wrench with the crank timing belt pulley bolt. Aim the punch mark on the timing belt pulley to the arrow mark on the oil pump as shown in the 1. Timing belt figure. 1. Timing pulley locating slot 2. Slider 3. Camshaft timing belt pulley 4. Belt pulley bolt

1. Crankshaft timing belt pulley bolt 3. Arrow mark 2. Punch mark

4. Crankshaft timing belt pulley

9) Once the two marks are aligned, fit the timing belt to the two belt pulleys, with no looseness at the drive side. Push the tension pulley bottom plat upward by hands.

Crankshaft direction

Notice: ·In fitting on the timing belt, the arrow mark

on it shall be consistent with the rotation direction of the

crankshaft. ·In this state, 4# piston shall be at the top dead center of the compression stroke. 10) To eliminate the slackness, rotate the crankshaft two turns clockwise when the belt is installed. Make sure the belt is not slack, and then tighten the tension pulley adjusting plate bolt, and then screw up the tension pulley bolt to the specified torque. Finally confirm whether the two marks align with each other. Tightening torque:

1. Tension pulley bottom adjusting plate bolt 2. Tension pulley bolt

(a): 15`23N·m (465) 23~28 N·m (474) 11) Install timing belt‘s front case Before installing it, be sure there is a seal between the water pump and the oil pump housing, and another seal between the water pump and the cylinder head (see the left figure); then make sure the front case seal is fixed on the front case, with the seal joint aiming at the front case step. 12) Install crankshaft bell pulley

1. Water pump 2. Cylinder head 3.Rubber seal

Install the locating pin of the crankshaft timing belt pulley in the belt pulley pin hole, and tighten the belt pulley bolts according to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 55~60N·m (465) 120~130 N·m (474) 8. Generator Mount the generator and adjust the drive belt‘s tension according to the technical requirement. For the technical requirement of the belt tension, see ―Water Pump Belt Tension‖ in this chapter.

1. Crankshaft belt pulley locating pin 2. Crankshaft belt pulley

Clutch plate and clutch housing Install clutches and their housings. As for the installation method, see ―Clutches‖ in this chapter. All the bolts shall be tightened up according to specified torque. Notice: On installing and connecting all the parts (components) and making sure they are well connected, check and adjust the ignition timing. As for the steps of such checks and adjustment, see the “Ignition System” in the

following chapter. Air-conditioner Compressor Install the air-conditioner compressor and adjust the drive belt‘s tension according to the specified technical requirement. See the ―Check on Drive Belts‖ in this chapter. Valve clearance adjustment Adjust the clearances of intake valves and exhaust valves; as for the adjusting steps, see the first chapter of this manual.

Ⅱ. Installation method of engines 1) Lift the engine with a transmission to its mounting position, but the lifting device shall not detached. 2) Install the right engine support bolts. 3) Install the left engine support bolts. 4) Install the transmission‘s mounting bolts and nuts. 5) Tighten the bolts and nuts mentioned in the steps 2), 3) and 4) above to the specified torque. Tightening torque Mounting beam bolt of engines: 30~40N·m Engine side bolts of the engine mounting bracket: 18~23N·m Engine mounting nut: 23~28N·m 6) Detach the lifting device. 7) Install the rest parts in the reverse order of disassembly.

8) Tighten the gearshift lever bolts to the specified torque. Refer to the ― Installation of Gearshift Control Mechanisms‖ of the transmission system of chassis in this manual. 9) Adjust parking brake, which can be referred to ―Check and Adjustment of Parking Brake‖ of the chassis braking system in the manual. 10) Tighten the front seat bolts to the specified torque. 11) Adjust the free stroke of the clutch pedal. 12) Adjust the clearance of the accelerator pedal cable . 13) Refill the engine with engine oil, and fill the transmission with transmission oil. 14) Refill the cooling system. 15) Fill the refrigerant into the air conditioning system. 16) Check and adjust the air compressor (if equipped) and generator belts (water pump belt) 17) Check and adjust the ignition timing. 18) While finishing all work, check and make sure all joints have no leakage of fuel, cooling liquid and waste gas.

Ⅲ. Check Compressors Check the compression pressure of the four cylinders according to the following requirements: 1) Heat the engine 2) Stop the engine after heated up. 3) Remove all the spark plugs. 4) Disconnect the wire harness connector of the ignition coil. Warning: Error in disconnecting the ignition coil‟s wire harness connector will produce sparks in the engine compartment, which may give rise to risks of explosion. 5) Fit the special tool (cylinder compression gauge) into the spark plug hole. Special tools: (A): 09915-64510-001 (B): 09915-64510-002 (C): 09915-64530 (D): 09915-64540

6) Separate the clutch (to lighten the engine‘s starting load), and then press on the accelerator pedal till the throttle opens totally. 7) Start the engine with a fully charged battery, and read the maximum pressure indicated on the cylinder pressure gauge. 8) Repeat the steps from 5) to 7) for every cylinder to gain the readings of the 4 cylinders. 9) Upon checking, connect the ignition coil‘s wire harness connector and install the spark plug. Compression pressure Model

EQ474i

Standard

1400kpa

EQ465i-21

930～1340 kpa Minimum limit

1200kpa

Maximum differential pressure between any two cylinders

90kpa

Remarks

Ⅳ. Engine vacuum test The engine vacuum formed in the intake manifold is a good indicator value that reflects the engine‘s state. The check of vacuum shall be made according to the follow procedures. 1) Heat the engine to the normal working temperature. 2)While stopping the engine, remove the VSV (vacuum switch valve) hose from the intake manifold, and then connect the hose and the special tools (vacuum gauge and connector) as shown in the figure. Special tools: (A): 09915-67310 (B): 09918-08210 3) Run the engine at a specified idle speed, and then read the vacuum gauge reading. The vacuum must be within the following specifications. vacuum range: 53.3~66.7kPa (made at the specified idle speed)

Engine speed: 300r/min or more

Intake manifold Vacuum hose

Ⅴ. Oil pressure check Notice: Check the following aspects first before checking the oil pressure: ·Oil level of the oil pan If the oil level is too low, fill oil to the position specified by the dip stick. ·Engine oil quality If the engine discolors or deteriorate, change it. ·Engine oil leakage If there is leakage discovered, repair and remove it. 1) Clean the surrounding of the oil pressure switch. 2) Remove the oil

pressure alarm from the cylinder block.

3) Install special tools (engine oil pressure gauge) Special tools: (A): 09915-77310 (B): 09915-78211

1. Engine oil filter

4) Mount the engine speed recorder. 5) Start the engine and heat it up to the normal working temperature. 6) Once heated up, raise the engine‘s speed to 3,000r/min, and then measure the oil pressure. Oil pressure reading: 300~450.kpa, measured at 3,000r/min. 7) When the check on oil pressure is finished, shut down the engine and remove the oil pressure gauge. 8) Before re-assembling the engine oil pressure alarm, the threads of it must be wrapped by sealing tape. Tighten it to the specified torque. Notice: cut off the stretching part of the sealing tap from the engine oil pressure alarm threads. Tightening torque: (a): 14N·m (465) 12~25N·m (474) Special tools

1. 09915-64510-001 cylinder pressure gauge 2. 09915-64510-002 adaptor 09915-47310

09915-67310 vacuum pressure gauge

3. 09915-64530 hose

Engine oil filter wrench

1. 09915-77310 pressure gauge

engine

2. 09915-78211 engine oil pressure gauge fitting

4. 09915-645430 accessory

1. 09916-14510 valve lifter 2. 09916-48210 remover fitting

valve

09916-34520

09916-34542

Reamer (7mm)

Reamer shank

09916-37310 Reamer (12mm）

09916-57321 09916-46010

Valve guide installer handle

Valve guide remover

09916-84510 09916-77310

Forceps

piston ring compressor

09917-68221

09917-88210

09917-98210

09918-08210

Camshaft belt pulley holder

Valve guide installer

Valve stem seal installer

Vacuum pressure hose coupling

gauge

Section Ⅸ Major troubles and troubleshooting method of mechanical engine parts Notice: see the steps given for corresponding positions in the Section Ⅶ for the adjustment, removal and change of fault location in the table. Troubles

Causes

Troubleshooting

The engine fails to start (fails to operate)

Poor starting (difficult starting)

1.

Fuses are blown out.

Change

2.

Batteries run out of their energy.

Recharge

3.

The connection of battery terminals is loose.

Wipe clean and tighten Tighten

4.

Battery wire connection gets loose.

5.

The contacts in starting switches fail to close, or starting switches suffer an open circuit.

Change

6.

Starter‘s solenoid switches are worn.

Change

7.

Starter‘s brushes are worn.

Repair or change

8.

The magnetic field or armature circuits of the starter disconnect.

Repair or change

Tighten or change

No spark

Adjust the clearance or change

1.

Fuses get loose or blown out.

2.

Spark plugs have failures.

3.

High voltage cables are short circuited (ground wire).

4.

Ignition coils are damaged.

5.

Crankshaft position sensors damaged or suffer poor contact.

6.

Repair or change Change Change Repair or change are

ECU is damaged or the circuits open.

Change Change

Failures in intake and oil supply systems

Check or change

1.

Fueling

The idle adjuster (stepper motor) is

2.

damaged.

Change

Water temperature sensors are damaged.

Clean or change

3.

Oil pump relays or fuses face failures.

4.

The fuel in the tank is inadequate.

5.

The Electric fuel pump fails to operate.

6.

Fuel filters are clogged.

7.

Fuel pipes have air.

8.

The oil nozzle is clogged.

9.

The fuel pressure is inadequate.

10. Fuel hoses or pipes are clogged.

Start repeatedly Change or clean Check, adjust Clean or change Check, adjust Check or change Tighten Change Change

11. The oil inlet and return pipes are connected reversely.

Change

12. ECU encounters failures.

Adjust

13. Intake manifolds get loose.

Change

14. Intake pressure sensors are damaged.

Change

15. Intake temperature sensors are damaged.

Repair or Change

Abnormal internal state of the gasoline engine 1.

The sealing gasket of the cylinder head ruptures.

2.

The valve clearance is incorrect.

3.

Valve springs get weak or damaged.

4.

Timing belts are damaged.

5.

Valves fail to be tightly fitted.

6.

Valves are burnt.

7.

Valve guides are jammed.

8.

Intake manifolds get loose and leak air.

9.

Pistons, piston rings or cylinders are

Change Adjust or change the valve and guide Tighten; if necessary, change the gaskets Change the worn piston rings and pistons; drill cylinder holes if necessary Change

worn. 10. The fuel brand is inconsistent.

Inadequate compression pressure

Adjust and repair

1.

The valve clearance is incorrect.

Change

2.

Valves fail to be tightly fitted.

Change

3.

Valve stems are jammed.

Change

4.

Valve springs get weak or damaged

Change

5.

Piston rings leak air.

6.

Pistons, piston rings or cylinders are worn.

Change worn parts, and drill cylinder holes if necessary Change

7.

Cylinder head gaskets suffer leakage.

Change

8.

Intake pressure sensors are damaged.

Change

9.

Intake temperature damaged.

Change

sensors

are

10. Fuel pressure adjustors are damaged. Ignition system failures Underpower 1.

Spark plugs have failures.

2.

ECU has failures.

3.

High voltage cables have electric leakage or get loose or ruptured.

4.

Crankshaft position sensors have failures.

Adjust the clearance or change Change Connect or change if necessary Repair or change

Change or clean Repair or Change

Fuel system failures

Change

1.

The oil nozzle is clogged.

Check, change

2.

The Electric fuel pump has failures.

Repair or Change

3.

Gas filters are clogged.

Change

4.

Fuel pressure adjustor is abnormal, and the fuel pressure is inadequate.

Check, change

5.

Fuel tank‘s outlet pipes are clogged.

6.

Fuel tank‘s inlet pipes are clogged.

Adjust Clean or change Repair, adjust or change

7.

Fuel system connectors get loose.

8.

Accelerator cables are abnormal.

Abnormal intake system

Repair or Change

1.

The air filter gets dirty or clogged.

Adjust or change

2.

The idle adjuster is damaged.

Tendency of gasoline engine to overheat 1.

(See ―overheat‖)

Others

Troubles

1.

The brake drags.

2.

The clutch slips.

Causes

Troubleshooting

Electrical system failures 1.

Gasoline engine panting (when the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine fails to react temporarily; this happens at any speed, and is most serious when the car is started from stopping).

The park plug is damaged or the spark plug clearance is out of tune.

2.

Ignition coils deteriorate or crack to cause leakage of electricity.

3.

High voltage wires leak current.

4.

ECU has faults.

5.

The throttle body has failures.

6.

Idle adjuster is damaged.

7.

The throttle damaged.

Change or adjust the clearance Change Change Change Repair or change

position

Change Change

sensor

is Clean or change

Fuel system failures

Change

1.

The oil nozzle is clogged.

Change

2.

The fuel pressure adjuster is out of order.

3.

The electric fuel pump fails to operate.

Gasoline engine failures 1.

The cylinder head gasket is damaged.

2.

The pistons, piston rings or cylinder holes are worn, or the valves are burnt.

3.

The water temperature sensor is damaged.

4.

The water pump performance is poor.

5.

The radiator suffers leakage.

Lubricating system failures 1.

The oil filter is clogged.

2.

The oil filter screen is blocked.

3.

The oil pump‘s performance is poor.

4.

The oil pan or oil pump has leakage.

5.

The oil brand is inconsistent.

The oil in the oil pan is inadequate. The brake drags. The clutch slips.

Change Change, and drill cylinder holes if necessary Change Repair or change Repair or change

Clean or change Clean Change Repair Change Add

Repair or change Adjust or change

Gasoline engine noise Note: make a check to make sure whether the ignition timing is correct; whether the specified spark plug is used; whether the specified fuel is used before testing the mechanical noise.

Noises caused by crankshaft

Change

1.

Change

The bearing shell is worn, or the clearance is wide.

2.

The connecting rod bearing shell is worn.

3.

The connecting rod is deformed.

4.

The main crankshaft journals are worn.

5.

The crank pin is worn.

Noises caused by pistons, piston rings, piston pins or cylinders 1.

Cylinder holes are abnormally worn.

2.

Pistons, piston rings and piston pins are worn.

3.

The pistons are jammed.

4.

The piston rings are damaged.

Repair or change Repair by grinding or change the crankshaft Repair by grinding or change the crankshaft Drill the cylinder hole to the next reconditioning dimension

Change Change Change

Adjust

Others 1.

Troubles

The camshaft thrust clearance is too wide. Causes

Troubleshooting

Gasoline engine noise Note: make a check to make sure whether the ignition timing is correct; whether the specified spark plug is used; whether the specified fuel is used before testing the mechanical noise.

2.

The camshaft thrust clearance is too wide.

3.

The valve clearance is great

4.

The gas in the gasoline engine is inadequate.

Adjust according specification

to

Adjust according specification Add

Ignition system failures 1.

2.

High fuel consumption

The connection of high voltage cables has electric leakage or gets loose.

Repair or change Clean, adjust or change

Spark plugs have failures (incorrect clearance, much deposited carbon, burnt electrode, etc.)

Fuel system failures

Change

1.

The idle adjuster is damaged.

Repair or change

2.

The fuel pipe of the fuel tank has leakage.

Repair or change

3.

The fuel pressure is inadequate.

4.

The oil nozzle cannot be closed tightly.

5.

The air filter element is clogged.

6.

The intake failures.

pressure

sensor

Clean or change Clean or change

has

Change

See the above Repair or change

Gasoline engine failures

Adjust

1.

The compression pressure is low.

Check and repair

2.

The valve fails to fit tightly.

3.

The valve clearance is incorrect.

Repair or change Adjust or change

Others

Adjust

1.

The brake drags.

Change

2.

The clutch slips.

3.

The tire pressure is incorrect.

4.

ECU is damaged.

oil leak

High fuel consumption

1.

The oil drain plug gets loose.

Tighten

2.

The fixing bolt of the oil pan gets slack.

Tighten

3.

The oil pan sealing gasket is damaged.

4.

The oil seal leaks oil.

5.

The cylinder head cap has leakage.

6.

The oil filter is not tightly screwed.

7.

The oil pressure switch gets loose to make oil flee.

Tighten Tighten

Remove the deposited carbon or change the piston ring

Oil flees 1.

The piston ring is jammed.

2.

The piston ring and ring groove are worn.

3.

The opening position of the piston ring is incorrect.

4.

The piston or cylinder is worn.

Change the piston and piston ring Adjust the opening position Change the piston, and drill cylinder holes if necessary

Change

1.

The valve oil seal is worn.

2.

The valve or valve guide is badly worn.

Causes

Change Change

oil leak around valve stems

Troubles

Change the seal gasket

Change

Troubleshooting

Fuel system failures

Surge (in driving at a steady speed or normal speed, changes take place in the gasoline engine power. While the accelerator pedal is not changed, the car is felt to slow down).

1.

The gas filer is clogged.

Change

2.

The fuel pipe is bent, damaged or has leakage.

Check, and change if necessary

3.

The electric fuel pump is out of order.

4.

The intake manifold and throttle body have leakage.

Check, and change if necessary Check, and change if necessary Change Clean or change

5.

The idle adjuster is damaged.

Change

6.

The oil nozzle is clogged.

Change

7.

The intake pressure sensor is damage.

Change

8.

The intake temperature sensor is damaged.

9.

The fuel pressure adjuster is out of order.

Repair or change Test and repair, or change

Ignition system failures

Change

1.

The connection of high voltage damper is loose or subject to current leakage.

Change

2.

The spark plug breaks down (too much deposited carbon, incorrect clearance and burnt electrode) .

3.

The crankshaft position sensor breaks down.

4.

ECU goes wrong.

Ignition system failures 1.

The park plug goes wrong.

Adjust or change

2.

The connection of high voltage cables leak current or is disconnected.

Connect or change

3.

The crankshaft position sensor breaks down.

4.

ECU goes wrong.

Change

Clean or change

Fuel system failures

Change

1.

The oil nozzle is clogged.

Clean or change

2.

The idle adjuster is damaged.

Change

3.

The air clogged.

4.

5. Unsteady idling (the adjustment in the gasoline engine idle speed is incorrect.)

Change

6.

7.

8.

filter

element

is

Test or change

The intake manifold and cylinder head gasket suffer leakage. The fuel pressure adjuster goes wrong. The intake temperature damaged.

Change

pressure sensors

and are

Adjust

Connect Change See the above

The throttle position sensor is damaged. The accelerator incorrect.

Adjust

cable

is

Screw the bolts or nuts Change Check, repair Change

Others 1.

The connection of vacuum hose is loose or detached.

2.

The cylinder head gasket suffer leakage.

3.

The cylinder inadequate.

4.

The intake manifold bolts and nuts get loosened.

5.

The intake manifold sealing gasket has leakage.

6.

The signal lines of the air conditioner are damaged.7、水 温传感器损坏

sealing

pressure

is

Ignition system failures

Abnormal detonation

1.

The spark plug is overheated.

2.

The ignition advance angle is too large.

3.

ECU goes wrong.

Replace with a new one with a suitable heat value Adjust Change

Fuel system failures 1.

The fuel pressure adjuster goes wrong.

2.

The gas brand fails to meet the requirements.

Abnormal detonation

Gasoline engine failures 1.

Too much carbon is deposited on the piston top or the cylinder head.

Adjust Change

Clean

Ignition system failures 2.

ECU goes wrong.

Change

3.

The heat valve of the spark plug is not right

Replace with a new one with a suitable heat value

4.

The ignition advance angle is too small.

Adjust

Fuel system failures

Overheat

Clean or change

1.

The oil nozzle is clogged.

2.

The fuel pressure is inadequate.

3.

The intake loosened.

manifold

Adjust

gets Add cooling liquid

Cooling system failures 1.

2.

The cooling inadequate.

Tighten

liquid

is

Adjust or change Change

The water pump belt gets slack or damaged.

3.

The temperature regulator fails to work normally.

4.

The water temperature sensor is damaged

5.

The radiator fan fails to work normally.

6.

The air mismatches.

conditioner

Change Repair or change Check or change

Emission influence factor and elimination method Troubles

Causes

Troubleshooting

Gasoline engine 1.

The water temperature of the gasoline engine fails to reach the normal temperature. The air filter is clogged.

3.

Air leakage

4.

Low cylinder pressure

5.

The fuel is not up to the mark.

Check, repair Replace with qualified fuel

Check, repair

Fuel system

2.

3.

The oil tank evaporation control system is out of order. The fuel pressure breaks down.

Change Clean or change

adjuster

The fuel injector is clogged.

Intake and exhaust systems 1.

The three-way catalytic converter is damaged.

Excessive emission of HC、 2. CO、NOx 3.

The oxygen sensor goes wrong. The throttle position sensor is damaged.

4.

The intake pressure sensor is damaged.

5.

The water temperature sensor is damaged.

6.

The thermostat is damaged.

7.

The vacuum tube leaks and is blocked.

8.

Clean or change Check, adjust

2.

1.

Check

The exhaust system leaks air.

Ignition system failures 1.

The spark plug breaks down.

2.

Cylinder misfire (some cylinders fails to operate) High voltage cables are subject to poor contact or leakage

3.

ECU goes wrong.

Change Check, change Check, change Check, change Check, change Check, change Check, repair Check, repair

Clean or change Check, repair Check, repair Check, repair

Chapter Ⅲ Drive system Section Ⅰ Five speed transmission Ⅰ. Composition The five speed transmission, a fully synchronized transmission, has five forward gears and one reverse gear. It changes speed by three synchronizers and four shafts (input shaft, main shaft, intermediate shaft and reverse gear shaft). All the forward gears are in constant mesh, and the reverse gear is of slide construction or setting wheel structure. The low speed synchronizer is fixed on the intermediate shaft, and is engaged with the first gear or the second gear of the intermediate shaft, while the high speed synchronizer is mounted on the input shaft, and is engaged with the third gear or the fourth gear of the input shaft. The fifth gear synchronizer fixed on the input shaft meshes with the fifth gear on the main shaft. The gear shift mechanism and the selector shaft are fixed on the top of the transmission housing, and are equipped with cams to avoid direct reverse gear from the fifth gear. For maintenance, the original sealant or an equivalent shall be used on the transmission case bonding surface. A torque spanner may be used to tighten the bolts to the specified torque. All the parts shall be thoroughly cleaned with cleaning agent and dried before assembly. See page 162 for the structural drawing.

Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis Trouble

Cause

Troubleshooting

·The shift fork shaft is worn. ·The shift fork or the synchronizer gear sleeve is worn. ·The guide spring suffers a loss in elasticity or damage. Out of gear ·The bearings on the input shaft or the main shaft are worn. ·The chamfering teeth of gear sleeves and gears are worn. ·The split ring dislocates or falls off.

Change Change Change Change Change the sleeves and gears Install

Impossible to shift the gears or disengage the gears

·The synchronizer spring suffers a loss in elasticity or rupture. ·The shift shaft or shift fork deforms.

·The clutch pedal travel is not correct. ·The friction plate deforms or fractures. ·The Clutch pressure plate is damaged. Difficult to shift gears

·The synchronizer gear ring is worn. ·The chamfering teeth of gear sleeves and gears are worn. ·The shift shaft deforms.

Noises

Change Change

Adjust Change Change the pressure plate

clutch

Change Change the sleeves and gears Change

·The lubricating oil is inadequate in quantity of unsuitable in variety.

Add or change

·Bearings are damaged or worn.

Change

·Gears are damaged or worn.

Change

·The synchronizer gear ring is damaged or worn.

Change

·The chamfering teeth of gear sleeves and gears are damaged or worn.

Change

1. Input shaft

9. High speed synchronizer gear sleeve

17. Oil filler plug

2. Input shaft oil seal

10. The 4 gear of input shaft

18. The 5th synchronizer gear hub

3. Front housing

11. Extension shaft

19. The 5th synchronizer gear sleeve

4. Reverse gear shaft

12. Oil filler plug

20. Intermediate shaft

5. Reverse gear oil

13. Odometer driven gear

21. The 2nd gear of intermediate shaft

6. Rear housing

14. Main shaft

22. Low speed synchronizer gear

7. The 3 gear of input shaft

15. transmission extension case oil seal

23. Low speed synchronizer gear hub

8. High speed synchronizer gear hub

16. Odometer drive gear

24. The 1st gear of intermediate shaft

rd

th

1. Input shaft

16. Conical snap ring

30. Drive gear of intermediate shaft

2. Oil seal

17. Synchronizer gear ring (reverse gear) th

3. Spring snap ring

18. Speed synchronizer gear hub of the 5 gear

4. Front shaft oil seal of input shaft

th

19. Synchronizer gear ring (5 gear) th

31. Inner spacing collar 32. Intermediate shaft nut 33. Main shaft

5. Snap ring

20.The 5 gear/reverse gear sleeve

34. Bearing plate

6. Needle bearing

21. Intermediate shaft

35. Front bearing of main shaft

22. Intermediate shaft front bearing

36. Odometer drive gear

rd

7. The 3 gear bearing of input shaft

st

8. High speed gear sleeve

23. The 1 gear of intermediate shaft rd

st

37. Rear bearing of main shaft

9. Synchronizer gear ring (3 )

24. Synchronizer gear ring (1 gear)

38. Steel ball

10. Synchronizer spring

25. Low speed synchronizer gear hub

39. reverse gear slide/setting wheel

nd

11. High speed synchronizer gear hub

26. Synchronizer gear hub (2 gear)

40. Gasket

12. Synchronizer slide

27. Low speed gear sleeve

41. Reverse gear shaft

13. Synchronizer gear ring th

14. The 4 gear of input shaft 15. Rear bearing of input shaft

nd

28. The 2 gear of intermediate shaft

42. O seal ring

29. Intermediate bearing of intermediate shaft

43. Odometer driven gear assembly

Ⅲ.In-car maintenance

SAE viscosity number

Temperature

1. Change of engine oil

1) Before changing or checking the oil, stop the engine first and lift the car horizontally. 2) Once the car is lifted, check the oil level and make sure whether there is oil leak. If there is, repair it. 3) When the waste oil is drained, apply the sealant to the threads of the oil drain plug, and tighten it to the torque specified in the following. 4) Fill new oil of given brand according to the specified quantity (till the level reaches the oil level hole) 5) Tighten the oil drain plug and oil filler plug to the specified torque below. “A”: sealant 99000-31110 Tightening torque (a): 36~54N·m (465), 30~37N·m (474) Notice: ·It is recommended to use API GL-5 85W- 90 GB13895-1999 gear oil. ·When the car is lifted up for maintenance without changing the oil, it is still necessary to make checks for the oil leak. Engine oil specification: winter: 75W/90 GL-5 or 80 W/90 GL-5 Summer: 85W/90 GL-5, see the viscosity table on the above figure.

Oil volume: 1.3Ｌ 2. Change of extension tank oil seal 1) Lift the car horizontally. 2) Make assembly marks on the joint flanges and the transmission shaft as shown in the figure. 3) Remove the 4 bolts in the rear transmission shaft flange, and then the transmission shaft. 4) Remove the oil seal with a screw driver. 5) Press the new oil seal in the extension tank with special tools and plastic hammers; the grease must be applied to the oil seal lip. “A”: grease 99000-25010 Special tool: (A): 09940-51710

1. Assembly mark

1. Extension tank oil seal

6) Clean and check the front worn part (which is to contact the oil seal) of the transmission shaft; if there are indents or scratches, treat and re-clean it, and then apply grease to the interior splines of the transmission shaft. “A”: grease 99000-25010 7) Assemble the transmission shaft according to the assembly marks, and tighten the flange bolts of the universal joint to the specified torque. Notice: Only given lock washers of bolts, nuts and universal joint flanges can be used. Tightening torque (a): 18~28N·m 8) Check the oil level, and add it to the specified level if necessary (the oil level should reach the oil level hole).

3. Gear shift lever and cable

1. Shift lever ball 2. Gear shift lever boot 3. Spacer 4. Elastic cushion 5. Shift cable assembly 6. Gear selector cable 7. Cable support 8. Cushion 9. Cushion plate 10. Gasket 11. E snap ring 12. Cable clamp

Disassembly 1) Remove the cable clamp and gasket at the transmission control end. 2) Unscrew the two bolts and remove the cable support from the rear transmission cap. 3) Remove the control box, and then remove the cushion plate the of the gear control cable. 4) Remove the shift and selector control cables from the shift lever assembly. 5) Unscrew the four bolts, and take out the shift lever assembly. Installation 1) Apply the grease to the moving or sliding parts. 2) The lever ball, if removed from the lever, shall be applied with thread-locking glue before fixed on the lever. Make sure the lever ball is aligned with the lever. 3) Install the lever assembly and relevant parts. Notice:

1. Odometer driven gear 2. Gear hub 3. Spring pin

·Make sure the boot is correctly mounted. ·Check if the lever can smoothly move after assembly. 4. Odometer driven gear Disassembly 1) Lift the car horizontally to a safe position. 2) Remove the odometer hose from the transmission. 3) Unscrew the bolts and take off the flexible shaft gear from the transmission. Notice: The a little transmission oil may flow out, so an oil reservoir shall be placed under the odometer drive gear hole. 4) Take out the spring pin and remove the odometer driven gear. Notice: • Use a pin remover of a diameter of 2.8~3.0mm to pull out the spring pin.

1. Gear hub 2. Oil seal

·In removing the spring pin, do not press or beat the driven gear. 5) Remove the oil seal from the hub. Notice: Use a L-type hand pushing device to take off the oil seal. Assembly 1) Be sure that the ―O‖ ring and the case are not damaged, and apply grease to the ―O‖ ring. 2) Apply grease to the driven gear, as shown in the figure. 3) Apply grease to the lip of the new oil seal; fix it on the bottom, with the lip facing inward. A special tool shall be used for its assembly.

1. Driven gear 2. Gear hub 3. O ring 4. Spring pin 5. Oil seal 6. Bolt

“A”: grease 99000-25010 Special tool: (A): 09916-46010 4) Check to make sure whether the odometer driven gear has abnormal wear or whether the gear shaft is bent; if necessary, change them. 5)Insert the driven gear into the hub and fix it with a spring pin, making sure it can rotate smoothly. 6) Fix the gear hub assembly on the transmission and connect the odometer hose.

Tightening torque (a): 10N·m (465), 9~12N·m (474) 7) Make sure the oil level complies with requirements. 5. Removal of transmission assembly 1) Remove the negative (-) and positive (+) lines from the battery terminals and lift up the car. 2) Remove the reversing light switch‘s plug connectors from the detachable joints. 3) Remove the black/yellow wire and positive line (+) from the starting motor. 4) Remove the battery negative (-) line from the transmission case and the remove the starting motor. 5) Undo the reversing light switch wires from the wire clip. 6) Detach the odometer hose from the transmission case. 7) Remove the oil drain plug, and discharge the transmission oil. 8) Remove the front transmission case, and detach the clutch cable from the clutch throw-out fork.

1. Clutch cable assembly 2. Clutch release rocking lever 3. Front transmission case

1. Reversing light switch plug connector 2. Odometer fitting 9) Remove the clip and gasket at the control cable end, and then strip off the shift cable and selector cable from the levers. 10) Strip off the cable support. 11) Remove the transmission shaft. 12) Detach the right reinforcement and then remove the lower clutch separator from the transmission case. 1. Left reinforcement 2. Lower separator of clutch housing 3. Clutch housing

1. Clip at the control cable end 2. Rear gasket of control cable 3. Shift cable assembly 4. Shift selecting cable assembly 5. Control cable support

13) Unscrew the bolts that fix the engine cylinder and transmission case. Notice: Check again to make sure all connections are detached before removing the transmission. 14) Unscrew the transmission from the chassis and then fit the bolts and nuts. 15) Remove the transmission. Transmission assembly The assembly shall be in the reverse order of the disassembly. the specified torque is as follows. Tightening torque (a): 50N·m (b): 55N·m

1. Bolt installed later 2. Cylinder block and transmission case nut 3. Cylinder block and transmission case bolt 4. Control cable support bolt

(c): 61N·m (d): 23N·m Notice: ·For easy assembly, after the input shaft is inserted into the clutch disc, the fittings to be assembled later then shall be fitted to the transmission. ·For the tightening torque of the starting motor bolts, see Section Ⅶ, Chapter Ⅱ. ·According to the stipulation above, fill a certain amount of gear oil. ·Once the clutch cable is connected, adjust its clearance.

Ⅳ. Transmission repair 1. Transmission disassembly Main shaft 1) Unscrew the transmission bolts to remove the transmission mounting elements, and the remove the extension tank. 2) Remove the main shaft‘s front limiting plate, and then take out the main shaft assembly with a metal bar and hammer.

Notice: Be careful not to damage the oil seal.

3) Remove 4) Unscrew fork of the 5th gear.

bar the 51.th Metal reverse gear rod. 2. Main shaft Extension tanktake out the selector shaft and shift the 3. bolts, and then

5) Remove the split ring, and then take out the 5th gear speed synchronizer sleeve and gear hub assembly, the reverse gear stop ring and cone 6) Remove the sleeve and the gear hub assembly.

1. The 5th reverse rod 2. The 5th gear shift shaft 3. The 5th gear shift fork

1. Input shaft 2. The 5th gear speed synchronizer gear hub and sleeve assembly 3. Snap ring

7) Use the 5th gear shift shaft to push the low speed shift shaft so as to mesh the intermediate shaft with the input shaft. 8)Undo the filling ring of the intermediate shaft, and then use the special tool to fix the 5 th gear speed synchronizer gear hub, and finally remove the intermediate shaft nuts. Special tool: (A): 09927-25411 9) Remove the 5th gear shift shaft, synchronizer gear hub and special tool. 10) unscrew the 5 bolts and the take down the rear cover plate.

1. The 5th gear shift shaft 4 Intermediate shaft 2. Input shaft 5. Intermediate shaft nut 3. The 5th gear speed synchronizer hub

1. Rear cover plate 2. Bolt

Shift fork, input shaft and intermediate shaft 1) Remove the intermediate shaft, intermediate bearing and spring snap ring. 2) Unscrew the 3 bolts, and take out the selector cable strut.

1. Spring snap ring

1. Selector cable strut 2. Selector cable strut bolt

3) Remove the shift stop bolt and the interlock bolt. 4) Remove the reversing light switch.

5) Remove the 3 bolts under the shift guide sleeve, and then pull out the shift and selector shaft assembly. 6) Remove the reverse gear bolt with gasket. 7) Remove the 5 bolts from the outside of the case, and the other 3 bolts from the front case. 8) Separate the front case and the rear case, and remove them.

1. Shift stop bolt 2. Interlock bolt from the 5th gear to the reverse gear 3. Backup switch 4. Shift and selector shaft assembly 5. Shift guide sleeve case (box) 6. Shift guide sleeve case bolt

1. Front case 2. Rear case 3. Case bolt 4. Reverse gear shaft bolt

9) Remove the shift fixed bolt, and take out the low speed fixed spring, high speed fixed spring and the 5 th gear fixed spring and the 3 steel balls. 10) Remove the front bearing snap ring of the input shaft.

1. Shift fixed bolt 2. The 5th and reverse gear fixed spring (short) 3. High speed fixed spring (short) 4. Low speed fixed spring (long) 5. Steel ball

1. Input shaft 2. Input shaft front bearing 3. Snap ring 11) Unscrew the two bolts, and remove the reverse shift lever.

12) Pull out the reverse gear shaft with a gasket, and then take out the reverse slide setting wheel. 13) Beat the input shaft end with a plastic hammer to push it out from the case, and then take out he input shaft assembly and the intermediate shaft assembly, high speed shift shaft, low speed shaft and the 5the gear shaft and reverse gear shaft. 14) Remove the input shaft oil seal from the front case if necessary.

1. Reverse gear shaft 2. Gasket 3. Reverse gear slide setting wheel 4. Reverse rod 5. Bolt 2. Main shaft assembly

1. Front case 2. Input shaft 3. Intermediate shaft 4. Low speed shift shaft 5. High speed shift shaft

Disassembly 1) Remove the spring snap ring as shown in the figure. 2) Stretch out from the rear bearing with a special tool. Special tool: (A): 09913-65135

1. Main shaft 2. Snap ring

1. Main shaft 2. Rear bearing

3) Remove the snap ring, and then take out the odometer drive gear and steel balls. 4) Remove the snap ring, and then pull out the front bearing with the remover and press.

1. Odometer drive gear 2. Snap ring 3. Steel ball

1. Main shaft front bearing 2. Remover

Check and assembly 1) Clean thoroughly all the parts and check whether they are abnormal, and change them if necessary. 2) If the synchronizer parts need a repair, check the clearances ―a‖ between gears, between gears and chamfering gear, and between gears and gear sleeves before determine the part to be changed. Clearance “a”: standard 1.0~1.4mm Maintenance limit: 0.5mm

1. Main shaft 2. The 5th gear speed synchronizer gear ring

3) Apply gear oil to the front gear, and use a special tool and press to install it, and then fit the spring snap ring. Special tool: (A): 09940-51770 4) Mount the steel balls, odometer drive gear and the snap ring. 5) Apply gear oil for transmission case to the rear gear, and then install it with a special tool and press, and finally mount the spring snap ring. Special tool (B): 09940-51770

1. Main shaft front bearing

1. Main shaft rear bearing

3. Input shaft assembly Disassembly 1) Strip off the spring snap ring, and then use the bearing puller and press to take down the front bearing rom the input shaft. 2) Remove the spring snap ring, and use the remover and press to pull out the rear bearing. 1. Input shaft 2. Front bearing 3. Bearing remover

3) Take out the 4th gear, needle bearing and high speed synchronizer gear ring.

1. Input shaft 2. Rear bearing 3. Remover

4) Use a special tool to remove the snap ring. Notice: To remove the snap ring successfully, it is recommended to flatten the tool tip. Special tool: (A): 09900-06107 5) Use a remover to take down the high speed synchronizer gear sleeve, gear hub assembly and the 3rd gear. Notice: Make sure to use the flat side of the remover to avoid damaging the 3rd gear teeth. 6) Take out the needle bearing of the 3rd gear. 7) Remove the synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub assembly. 1. Input shaft 2. High speed synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub assembly 3. The 3rd gear 4. Remover (the flat side upwards)

1. Snap ring 2. High speed synchronizer gear sleeve

Check and reassembly 1) Clean thoroughly all the parts, and check if they are abnormal, and replace them with the new ones if necessary. 2) If the synchronizer parts need a repair, check the clearances between gears, between gears and chamfering gears, and between gears and gear sleeves before determine the part to be changed. Clearance “a”: standard valve 1.0~1.4mm Maintenance limit 0.5mm 3)To make sure of lubrication, sweep the oil holes to ensure they are not blocked.

1. Gear 2. Synchronizer gear ring

1. Input shaft 2. Oil hole

4) Apply grease to the front gear, and then use special tools and press to fix them, and then fit the snap spring Special tools: (A): 09951-76080

1. Input shaft 2. front bearing

(B): 09940-54950 5) Fit the high speed synchronizer gear sleeve into the gear hub, and then insert the three sliders into the gear sleeve, and finally mount the spring as shown in the right figure. Notice: ·There is no specified direction for the sliders, but they shall be given one in assembly. ·The specification (dimension) of high speed synchronizer gear sleeves, hubs, sliders, springs is between that of the low speed synchronizer and the 5th gear synchronizer. 6) Fit on the 3rd gear needle bearing and apply grease to it. 7) Apply gear oil to the 3rd gear and synchronizer gear ring before installed.

1. Input shaft 2. The 3rd gear 3. Synchronizer gear ring 4. Gear sleeve and gear hub assembly A. Slider groove

8) Use special tools and hammer to beat the high speed shift sleeve and gear hub parts. Notice: · High speed synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub assembly do have specified mounting direction, which can be referred to the figure in the step 5). ·In pressing to assemble the shift sleeve and gear hub, make sure the synchronizer slider groove aligns with the sliders of the gear sleeve and gear hub assembly. ·After the gear sleeve and gear hub assembly are installed by pressing, check if the 3rd gear can rotate flexibly. · The synchronizer gear rings of the third gear and the fourth gear are the same.

1. High speed synchronizer spring 2. Slider 3. Gear hub 4. Gear sleeve 5. The 3rd gear

Clutch side (The 3rd gear side)

A=B C: Long flange (clutch side) D: Slider groove

Special tool: (C): 09913-84510

Clutch side

9) Mount the snap ring in a proper direction, as shown in the figure; apply gear oil to the needle bearing before installed.

1. Rear bearing 1. Snap ring 4. The 4th gear 2. Needle bearing 5. Input shaft 3. Synchronizer gear ring 6. Synchronizer gear hub

Notice: Make sure the snap ring is firmly fitted to the groove. 10) Install the synchronizer gear ring. The sliding part of the 4th gear shall be applied with gear oil before assembly. 11) Install the bearings by pressing them with a special tool and hammer, and then mount the spring snap ring.

Special tool (D): 09925-98221 4. Intermediate shaft assembly Disassembly 1) Remove the snap ring, and then use the special tool, remover and press to push out the front bearing. Special tool: (A): 09913-85230 2) Take out the first gear, the first gear needle bearing and synchronizer gear ring. 3) Make use of a special tool to take down the spring ring. Notice: The tool tip shall be flat so as to make the removal of snap spring easy. Special tool: (B): 09900-06107 1. Intermediate shaft front bearing 2. Bearing remover

1. Intermediate shaft 2. Snap ring

4) Press the remover in the 2nd gear, and then use the press to pull out the low speed synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub assembly with gears 5) Remove the synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub assembly. 6) Strip off the needle spring from the shaft. 7) Set the remover on the drive gear, and pull out the rear bearing inner spacer and gear with help of the remover and metal bar‘s squeezing as well as the press.

1. Metal bar 2. Rear bearing inner spacer 3. Intermediate shaft drive gear 4. Remover (the flat side upwards)

Notice: Make sure the flat side of the remover is used to avoid damage to the drive gear teeth. 1. Low speed synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub assembly 2. The 2nd gear 3. Remover

1. Intermediate shaft intermediate bearing

8) Remove the snap ring, and then use the remover and press to take out the intermediate bearing Check and reassembly 1) Clean thoroughly all the parts, and check if they are abnormal, and replace them with the new ones if necessary. 2) If the synchronizer parts need a repair, check the clearances ―a‖ between gears, between gears and chamfering gears, and between gears and gear sleeves before determine the part to be changed. Clearance “a”: standard value 1.0~1.4mm Maintenance limit 0.5mm 3) Mount the 2nd gear‘s needle bearing, and apply gear oil to it. 4) Apply gear oil to the 2nd gear‘s sliding part before fixing the 2nd gear and the 2nd gear synchronizer gear ring. Notice:： The slider groove width of the 1st gear synchronizer gear ring is smaller than the 2nd synchronizer gear ring‟s. Width difference: width “b”: 8.2mm “c”: 8.8mm

1. Gear 2. Synchronizer gear ring

1. The 1st synchronizer gear ring 2. The 2nd synchronizer gear ring

1. Low speed synchronizer spring 2. Slider 3. Gear 4) Fit the low speed synchronizer gear sleeve into the gear hub, and hub insert three sliders, and finally mount the 4. Gear sleeve spring as shown in the right figure.

Clutch side Notice:

A=B C: slider groove ·There is no specified direction for the low speed synchronizer gear hub and sliders, but they shall be given one in assembly. ·The dimension of low speed synchronizer sliders and springs shall be larger than that of the high speed

synchronizer and the 5th gear synchronizer. 6) Use a special tool and hammer to tap into the low speed synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub assembly. 1. Low speed synchronizer sleeve and gear hub assembly Notice: 2. The 2nd gear synchronizer ring 3. Intermediate shaft low speed synchronizer ·In pressing to assemble the gear sleeve and gear hub assembly, A: sliding chute aligns with the slider make sure the synchronizer gear ring‟s slider groove aligns with the sliders. ·Check if the 1st gear and the 2nd gear can rotate flexibly after the gear sleeve and gear hub assembly are mounted by pressing. Special tool: (A): 09940-53111 (B): 09913-85210 7) Install the snap ring in proper direction as shown in the right figure. Notice: Make sure the snap ring is firmed fitted to the groove. 8) Install the needle bearing and apply gear oil to it, and finally mount the 1st gear synchronizer gear ring. Apply gear oil to the 1st gear‘s sliding part before installed. 9) Apply gear oil to the front bearing, and install them with a special tool and press, and finally mount the spring snap ring.

1. Intermediate shaft 4. Needle bearing 2. The 2nd gear 5. The 1 st gear ring 3. Low speed synchronizer gear sleeve and gear hub assembly 6 The 1st gear

Special tool: (A): 09913-85210 10) Apply gear oil to the intermediate bearing and install it with a special tool and hammer, and finally mount the spring snap ring. Special tool: (B): 09941-74910 1. Intermediate shaft front bearing 2. The 1st gear

1. Intermediate shaft intermediate bearing 2. Intermediate shaft

11) Use the same special tool to knock in the intermediate shaft drive gear.

1. Intermediate shaft front bearing 2. The 1st gear

12)Use a special tool and hammer to assemble the rear bearing inner spacer by pressing it.

1. Intermediate shaft intermediate bearing 2. Intermediate shaft

1. Rear bearing inner spacer 2. Intermediate shaft

Special tool: (C): 09925-98221 13) The outer surface of the spacer shall be applied with gear oil. 5. Shift fork Shift and selector shaft assembly 1) To remove parts, the special tools and 2.8-3.0mm pin remover shall be made use of. Special tools: (A): 09922-85817(4.5mm)

(B): 09925-78270(6.0mm) 2) Clean thoroughly all the parts, and replace them with new parts if necessary. 3) Assemble the parts in the reverse order of the disassembly. 4) Apply lubricating oil to the oil seal lip when it is changed. “A”: grease 99000-25010 Notice: ·In knocking in the spring pin, a wooden block shall be support it to avoid the shaft bending.

1. C ring

11. Cam guide gear return spring

2. Gasket

12. Cams of the 5th gear and the reverse gear

·Assemble the cams of the 5 the gear and the reverse gear by rolling the cam guide sleeve return spring, and then knock in the spring pin.

3. Low selector spring

13. Shift and selector shafts

4. Interlock plate

14. Reverse selector spring

5. Shift lever and selector lever

15. Guide sleeve case

6. External pins of shift and selector levers

16. Oil seal

7. Internal pins of shift and selector levers

17. Oil rubber sleeve (check ring)

th

· Fix the positions of the low speed selector spring (green) and the reverse gear selector spring (yellow) correctly.

8. Cam guide sleeves of the 5 gear and the reverse

18. Shift cable rod

gear 9. Cam guide pin

19. External pin of shift cable rod

10. Reverse gear interlock shaft pin

20. Internal pin of shift cable rod

Check Shift shafts of high gear, low gear, the 5th gear and the reverse gear: 1) Use a feeler to check the clearance between the fork and the gear sleeve; if the clearance exceeds 1.0mm, the limit, these parts shall be changed. Notice: To make a correct judgment of whether the parts need to be changed, a careful check shall be paid to the contact site of the fork and the gear sleeve. Clearance “a”: maintenance limit 1.0mm 2) Install the shift shafts in the tank, and check if they rotate flexibly. If they fail to rotate flexibly, use such tools as oil stone, reamer or like to trim them.

1. Shift fork 2. Synchronizer gear sleeve

6. Transmission assembly Front and rear cases 1) Mount the oil seal facing the input shaft spring side to the clutch side with a special tool and hammer. Apply grease to the oil seal lip. “A”: Suzuki super grease A 99000-25010 Special tool (A): 009941-74910 2) The oil groove, if removed already, shall be installed with bolts applied with thread lock cement. “B”: thread lock cement: 1322, 99000-32110 Tightening torque (a): 18~28N·m 3) Connect the input shaft, intermediate shaft, low speed gear shift shaft, high speed shift shaft and the 5th gear and reverse gear shaft assembly, and then fit them into the front case. Notice: Tap the shaft with a plastic hammer to install the input shaft‟s front bearing in the front case. Notice: To avoid damage to the oil seal, wrap the spline groove of the input shaft by nylon tapes in assembly. 4) Mount the reverse gear lever, and fix it with 2 bolts with thread lock cement. “B”: thread lock cement 1322, 99000-52110 Tightening torque (a): 18~28N·m 5) Fit the reverse gear slide setting wheel to the reverse lever, and then insert the reverse shaft with gear oil in the case through the slide setting wheel, and finally align the A on the shaft with the B on the case.

1. Front case 2. Input shaft 3. Intermediate shaft 4. Low speed shift shaft 5. High speed shift shaft 6. The 5th gear and reverse shift shaft

1. Reverse lever 2. Reverse lever bolt 3. Reverse gear shaft 4. Gasket 5. Reverse slide setting wheel 6. Front case

Notice: Make mentioned

sure the gasket is fitted into the gear shafts above.

6) Clean the and then evenly.

two fitting surfaces of the front and rear cases apply sealant on the front case fitting surface

Sealant: 7) Tighten the torque.

1. Front case 2. Oil groove plate 3. Bolt

Suzuki Bond NO.1215, 99000-31110 case bolts from the outside to the specified

Tightening torque (a): 18~28N·m 8) Fit the reverse shift shaft bolts with aluminum gasket, and tighten them up.

1. Input shaft oil seal Tightening torque

1. Rear case 2. Front case 3. Case bolt 4. Reverse shaft bolt

(b): 18~28N·m 9) Fit the other 3 bolts from the front case, and tighten them up to the same torque. 10) Check if the fixed spring are aged, and change the if necessary. 11) Install the steel balls and fixed spring in the shaft respectively, and tighten them up with bolts applied with thread lock cement. “A”: thread lock cement 1322, 99000-32110 Tightening torque (a): 13~20N·m Main shaft 1) Mount the intermediate shaft, intermediate bearing spring snap ring and rear case plate, and secure them with 5 bolts 1. Shift fixed bolt 2. The 5th gear and reverse gear fixed bolts 3. High speed setting spring 4 Low speed setting spring 5. Steel ball

applied with thread lock cement. “A”: thread lock cement 1522, 99000-32110 Tightening torque (a): 23N·m 2) Push the low speed gear shift shaft by the 5th gear shift shaft to mesh the intermediate shaft with the input shaft, as shown in the figure. 3) Install the 5th speed synchronizer gear hub with special tools to make the shaft not rotate. Special tool Free length of setting spring

Standard

Maintenance limit

High gear, 5th gear and reverse gear

36.7mm

35.6mm

Low gear

46.7mm

45.6mm

(A): 09927-25411 4) Screw the nut of the intermediate shaft, and tighten it to the specified torque.

1. Input shaft 2. Intermediate shaft 3. Rear case plate 4. Bolt 5. Rear case

1. Reverse gear brake cone 2. Reverse gear brake ring

Tightening torque (a): 68N·m 5) Take down the special tool, and stuff the nuts at A with a caulking tools and a hammer. 6) Put the reverse gear brake cone in place, and apply gear oil to the cone, and then fit on the reverse gear brake ring.

1. The 2. Inp 3. T synch 4. Inte 5. Inte

7) Assemble the 5th gear speed synchronizer gear sleeve and the gear hub with sliders and springs. Notice: The long flange C in the gear hub and the chamfer‟s tooth space E in the gear sleeve shall be matched inwardly (rear case side) 8) Install the 5th gear synchronizer gear sleeve, gear hub assembly and the long flange facing the rear case side.

1. Intermediate shaft 2. Intermediate shaft nut

9) Mount the snap ring in the correct direction, as shown in the figure. Notice: Be sure the snap ring is firmly fixed in the groove.

1. The 5th gear shift fork 2. The 5th gear shift shaft 3. The 5th gear reverse lever 4. The 5th gear shift fork bolt 5. Reverse gear lever bolt

1. Input shaft 2. The 5th gear speed synchronizer gear hub and sleeve assembly 3. Spring ring

10) Fit on the 5th gear shift fork gear sleeve and gear hub assembly, and then the 5th gear shift shaft. 11) Tighten up the 5th gear shift fork bolts with thread lock cement. “A”: thread 99000-52110

lock

cement

1322,

Tightening torque (a): 10N·m

A=B C: clamping flange D: Slider groove E: Chamfer tooth space

12) Fit on the 5th reverse lever, and screw the bolts with thread lock cement. “B”: three lock cement 1322, 99000-32110 Tightening torque (b): 8~14N·m

1. The 5th gear speed synchronizer spring 2. Slider 3. Gear hub 4. Gear sleeve

Extension tank 1) Refer to section Ⅰto install oil seal if it has been removed. 2) Install the main shaft assembly in the extension tank with a special tool and hammer, and then tighten the front bearing plate bolt to the specified torque. Special tool: (A): 09925-98210 Tightening torque (a): 18~28N·m 3) Clean up the dirt on the two fitting surfaces of the extension tank and the rear case. Apply sealant to the fitting surface of the rear cast evenly before assembling the rear case and the extension tank. Finally tighten them up with 7 bolts. “A”: sealant 99000-31110 Tightening torque (a): 18~28N·m

1. Main shaft assembly 2. Front bearing plate 3. Front bearing plate bolt 4. Extension tank

Gear shift and selector shaft assembly 1) Clean the fitting surfaces of the rear case and the shift guide sleeve case. Apply evenly a layer of sealant to the rear case‘s fitting surface, and then install the shift and selector shaft assembly. “A”: sealant 99000-31110 Notice: In fitting shift and selector shaft assembly, put the gear in the neutral position so as to move the gear shift lever smoothly. 2) Tighten the 3 bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 13~20N·m 3) Fit on the interlock guide sleeve bolts from the 5th gear to the reverse gear (applied with thread lock cement), and shift catch bolts (applied with thread lock cement) and reversing light switch. “B”: thread lock cement 7322, 99000-32110 Tightening torque

1. Extension tank 2. Rear case 3. Extension tank bolt

(b): 23N·m

(c): 20N·m

4) Install the selector cable rod and fasten them with 2 bolts Tightening torque (a): 23N·m 5) Check if the input shafts of all gears can rotate. Use a ohmmeter to determine whether the reversing light switch at the reverse gear can function normally. They shall be subject to conduction when at the reverse gear.

1. Selector cable rod

Ⅴ. Required servicing materials Materials

Recommended Suzuki product

Use

·Control cable rear gasket ·Odometer driven gear Suzuki super grease A lithium lubricating oil (grease) (99000-25010)

·Odometer driven gear case ―O‖ seal ring ·Odometer driven gear case oil seal ·Extension tank oil seal ·Front end of drive shaft

·Gear shift shaft oil seal ·Input shaft oil seal

·Fuel drain and fuel level plug Suzuki BONDNO.1215 Sealant (99000-3lll0)

·Fitting surface of transmission case ·Fitting surface of gear shift guide sleeve case ·Lever ball handle ·Reverse lever bolt ·Sump bolt

Thread lock cement

Thread lock cement 1322 (99000-32110)

·Rear case plate bolt ·Interlock guide sleeve bolt from the 5th gear to the reverse gear ·The 5th gear shift fork bolt ·Gear shift catch bolt ·Gear shift fixed bolt

Ⅵ. Special tools

Spring snap ring pliers (open type)

Bearing installer

Gear hub clamp

Bearing puller

Bearing installer

Bearing installer

Bearing installing attachment

Bearing installer attachment

Bearing installer

4.5mm spring pin remover

Valve guide installer

Bearing puller attachment

6mm spring pin remover

Bearing installer

Bearing installer

Bearing installer

Input shaft bearing installer

Section Ⅱ Clutch Ⅰ. Composition The clutch is single-plate dry diaphragm spring clutch. The diaphragm spring is a conical diaphragm spring, which is composed of a ring outside and a group of inner conical pointer. The clutch plate is furnished with three tension coil springs which is connected to the transmission input shaft by splines and can slip axially. The clutch case assembly is fixed on the flywheel, while the diaphragm shall be such installed that the fixed part of the diaphragm spring is able to push the pressure plate to the flywheel (equipped with clutch discs ) when the release bearing withdraws. This is the clutch engagement. When the clutch is treaded, the release bearing will move forwards to push the spring conical pointer. Then the diaphragm will push the pressure plate to divorce from the flywheel, and thus the driving force transferred by the flywheel to the transmission input shaft through clutch plate is cut.

1. Clutch case 2. Pressure plate 3. Diaphragm spring 4. Release bearing 5. Release fork 6. Upper transmission case 7. Clutch plate 8. Release fork return spring 9. Input shaft bearing 10. Input shaft 11. crankshaft 12. Flywheel

Ⅱ. Trouble diagnosis

Troubles

clutch slipping

Causes

Troubleshooting

·The free pedal travel of clutches is improper.

Adjust the free travel

·Clutch discs are worn or smeary..

Change clutch discs

· Clutch plate‘s pressure plates or flywheel surfaces deform.

Change clutch discs, clutch pressure plates or flywheels

·The elasticity of diaphragm spring becomes weak.

Change clutch cases Change the cable

·The clutch cable is corroded.

Difficult clutch release

·The free pedal travel of clutches is improper

Adjust the free travel

·The diaphragm spring becomes weak in elasticity or gets worn.

Change clutch cases

·The spindles of input shaft are corroded. ·The spindles of transmission input shaft are damaged or worn. ·The clutch discs swing seriously.

Lubricate Change the input shaft Change clutch discs Change clutch discs

·The clutch disc is worn or smeary.

Clutch vibrating

·Clutch discs are burnished (like glass)

Repair or change clutch discs

·Clutch discs are greasy.

Change clutch discs

·Release bearings fail to slide smoothly on the input shaft bearing retainer.

Lubricate or change input shaft bearing retainer

·Clutch discs swing or have poor contact.

Change clutch discs

·The torsion spring in the clutch plate get weak.

Change clutch discs

·The rivets of clutch discs get slack.

Change clutch discs

·The pressure plate or flywheel surface deforms.

Change clutch cases or flywheels

·The mounting cushion of engines gets weak, or mounting bolts or nuts get loose.

Clutch noise

Re-tighten or change the mounting cushion

·The release bearing is worn or damaged.

Change the release bearing

·The front bearing of input shaft is worn.

Change the input shaft bearing

·Clutch disc hubs are too loose.

Change clutch discs

·Clutch discs have cracks.

Change clutch discs

·Pressure plates or diaphragm spring get loosened.

Change clutch cases

·Clutch discs are greasy.

Change clutch discs

·Clutch discs are badly worn.

Change clutch discs

·The rivets project over the disc surface.

Change clutch discs

·Tension springs get weak.

Change clutch discs

Clutch drag

Ⅲ. In-car maintenance 1. Free pedal travel of clutches 1) Tread the clutch pedal till a resistance is felt, and then measure the distance (free pedal travel of the clutch). The free pedal travel shall be with the specified range. Free pedal travel “a”: 10~15mm 2) If the free travel is not within the specified range, it can be adjusted by the turning the cable adjusting nut. 1. Cable adjusting nut 2. Oil pan

1. Clutch pedal 3) Upon checking the freed pedal travel of the clutch, check if the clutch functions normally when the engine is

started. 2. Cable alignment chart

A view

B view C view

1. Bottom plate 2. Sleeve 3. Compression rod mounting bracket 4. Cross bar 5. Water pipe 6. Brake pipe ·In fitting the clutch pedal shaft arm to the clutch pedal shaft, the punch mark shall be aligned, as shown in the 7. Air conditioner hose (if equipped) 8.figure. Cable adjusting nut ·Before installing cables, apply grease to the pins, rivets and shaft arms. “A”: grease 99000-25010

Ⅳ. Parts repair

1. Input shaft bearing 2. Flywheel 3. Clutch disc 4. Clutch case 5. Clutch bolt cover 6. Release bearing 7. Release fork 8. Release fork clamp 9. Release bearing clamp 10. Return spring

1. Clutch cable 2. Rivet 3. Pin 4. Clutch pedal shaft arm 5. Punch mark 6. Clutch pedal shaft

Disassembly/ assembly See the Disassembly/Assembly of Manual Transmission in the Section Ⅰ for disassembly/assembly. 1. Clutch pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel Disassembly 1) Clamp the flywheel with a special tool (A) to remove the clutch pressure plate bolt, clutch case and clutch disc.

Special tool (A): 09924-17810 2) Draw the input shaft bearing with a special tool (B) and wrench. Special tool (B)：09917—58010

1. Bolt 2. Clutch case

1. Input shaft bearing 2. Flywheel

Check Input shaft bearing Check if the bearing can rotate smoothly, and change it if there are abnormalities. Clutch disc

1. Input shaft bearing

Measure the sinkage of the rivet head, that is, the distance from the Revit head to the clutch disc surface. If the depth of any hole exceeds the operating limit, the clutch assembly shall be changed. Rivet head depth Standard: 1.2mm Operating limit: 0.5mm Clutch case 1) Check if the diaphragm spring is abnormally worn or damaged 2) Check if the pressure plate is worn or has partial ablation. 3) If any abnormality is found, change the assembly, while the diaphragm and pressure plate shall not be disassembled. Flywheel Check if the contact surfaces of clutch discs are abnormally worn or have partial ablation, and change them if necessary. Assembly

Notice: Make sure the surfaces of the flywheel and the pressure plate are clean and dry before assembly. 1) Fit the flywheel to the crankshaft, and tighten it to the specified torque. Special tool (A): 09924-77810 1. Diaphragm spring 2. Pressure plate

Tightening torque (a): 40~45 N·m

2) Fit the input shaft bearing to the flywheel with a special tool. Special tool (B): 09925-98210

1. Flywheel 2. Bolt

3) Align the clutch disc with the flywheel center with a special tool, and then fit on the clutch case and bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. Notice: ·In tightening the clutch case bolts, press the clutch discs down firmly with a special tool (c) and make sure the clutch discs align with the center. ·Screw up the pressure plate bolts evenly in the diagonal order. Special tool (A): 09924-17810

1. Clutch case

(C): 09923-35550 Tightening torque (a): 18~28 N·m 4) Apply a little grease to the input shaft, and then connect the transmission assemble with the engine. Refer to Section Ⅰ for the installation steps. 1. Release bearing 2. Clutch release fork 3. Input shaft

“A”: grease 99000-25210 Notice: While inserting the transmission into the clutch disc, turn the crankshaft with a wrench from the front side till it meshes with the splines. 2. Clutch release fork Disassembly 1) Remove the release fork return spring and release fork clamp. 2) Remove the release fork and release bearing together.

1. Release fork 2. Release bearing 3. Return spring

Check Clutch release bearing Check if the clutch release bearing can rotate smoothly, and change it if there is any abnormality. Caution: Do not wash the release bearing, or it will wash off the grease and thus damage the bearing. Clutch release fork Check to make sure whether the clutch release fork and its clamp are damaged or deformed. The clutch fork return spring shall be checked as well. If there is any abnormality or deformation, change them.

Assembly

1. Release fork 2. Release bearing 3. Bearing clamp 4. Fork clamp 5. Return spring

Assemble them in the reverse order of disassembly, and pay attention to the following requirements in assembly: ·Apply grease as shown in the figure. “A”: grease 99000-25010

“B”: grease 99000-25210 ·Fit the release bearing, return spring and clamps to the release fork, as shown in the figure.

Ⅴ. Servicing materials Materials

Recommended Suzuki products

Use ·Clutch pedal shaft arm

Suzuki superior grease A ·Clutch release fork Lithium grease Suzuki superior grease 1 (99000-25210)

Front end of the input shaft spline

Ⅵ. Special tool

Bearing puller

Clutch center guide device

Flywheel localizer

Input shaft bearing installer

Section Ⅲ Drive shaft Ⅰ. Composition The drive shaft assembly is composed of a drive shaft, front and rear universal joints. The drive shaft connects the cone drive gear shaft wheel by a flange joint and connects transmission output shaft by a sliding spline. The front universal joint has an inner spline sleeve, in which the spline of transmission input shaft is installed. The rear universal joint, a flange joint, is connected with the flange fixed on the differential front end by bolts. The cross of every universal joint is equipped with 4 needle bearings.

1. Drive shaft 2. York 3. Front universal joint 4. Rear universal joint

Ⅱ. In-car maintenance 1. Drive shaft Maintenance Universal joint noise If there is doubt about clatter or vibrating sound in the universal joints, check them to make sure whether they are worn, whether the crosses are worn or whether the splines are worn. Replace the drive shafts that have noises with the new ones. The universal joint noises are easy to be distinguished from other noises, or the rhythm of the clatter or vibrating sound is consistent with the driving pace at constant speed. Especially in starting from the state at rest or in free wheeling (when the engine is found to disengage in power transmission), the noises are particularly noticeable. Disassembly 1) Lift up the car and place it safely. 2) Make an assembly mark on every joint‘s flange and drive shaft before the drive shaft is removed, as shown in the figure. 3) Remove the drive shaft bolts. 4) Remove the drive shaft. Notice: there will be some transmission oil flowing out then.

1. Assembly mark 2. Drive shaft 3. Universal joint flange Disassembly Disassembly of drive shaft yoke 1) Use a special tool (A) to remove 2 snap rings Special tool (A): 09900-06108 2) Use a special tool (B) to pull the cross bearing race out 3~4mm from the yoke race Notice: Apply permeable lubricant between the bearing race and the yoke race before pulling out the cross bearing race. Special tool: (B): 09926-48010 Length “a”: 3~4mm

3) Hit the drive shaft yoke with a hammer to remove the bearing race thoroughly. 4) Remove the bearing race at the other side with the same

method as 2) and 3). Disassembly of flange yoke Pull out the bearing race at the flange yoke side with the same method as 1) and 2). Then hold the bearing race with a vice, and hammer the flange yoke to take out the race (see figure). Remove the bearing race at the opposite side with the same method. Notice: ·Fit the removed bearings to the cross temporarily so as to remount them on their original positions. Check Check if the drive shaft and flange yoke are damaged, and give a check to the radial run-out of the drive shaft as well. If there is damage or the radial run-out exceeds the limit, change the drive shaft or the flange yoke. Drive shaft limit:0.7mm。

radial

run-out

Assembly

1. Vice

Notice · Make sure the needles in the cross bearing race are evenly installed in place. ·Be sure to apply grease to the cross bearing race. “A”: grease 99000-25030 Notice: In reassembly, be sure to use new snap rings, crosses and bearings. The old removed snap springs, crosses and bearing are not permitted to reuse. 1) Insert the bearing race into the yoke and hammer it to be flush with the yoke surface. Meanwhile, insert the cross into the bearing race to avoid the needles in the bearing race rolling out.

1. Cross 2. Bearing

2) Insert the bearing race at the opposite side into the yoke and hammer it to be flush with the yoke surface. 3) Insert the bearing race into the flange yoke at the other side with the same methods as 1) and 2). 4) In knocking in the bearing race, a metal plate shall be placed on the bearing race to avoid damage to the yoke. 5) Fix the shaft and flange yoke of universal joint with 4 snap rings.

1. Copper hammer 2. Bearing race 3. Yoke 4. Cross Notice: ·Check and make sure the shaft yoke and flange yoke can rotate flexibly after assembly. ·Make sure every snap ring is firmly fitted into the groove. Assembly Assemble the drive shaft in the reverse order of disassembly, and pay attention to the following main points: ·In assembling the drive shaft, the assembly marks shall be aligned, or there will be vibrating in driving. ·Tighten the universal joint flange to the specified torque below. Tightening torque (a): 18~28N·m Notice: If the transmission oil flows away in removing the drive shaft, the specified gear oil shall be filled in the transmission case to the specified level.

Ⅲ. Servicing materials Material

Recommended Suzuki products

Use

Lithium grease

Super grease C (99000-25030)

Apply to cross bearing race

Ⅳ. Special tools

Spring snap ring forceps (clamped type)

Universal joint puller

Section Ⅳ Differential Ⅰ. Composition The differential is made up of the parts as shown in the figure. The gear drive mechanism of this differential is of hypoid design, and its drive gear and driven gear are hypoid gears. This means the driven gear is installed slightly below the drive gear centerline. Thus, the height of the car body can be reduced in design. Gear engagement will result to frictional contact and slippage. This is why the differential shall use the specified hypoid gear oil.

1. Bevel drive/driven gear

2. Differential case

3. Differential bearing

4. Differential adjusting screw

5. Side gear

6. Planetary gear

7. Side gear adjusting shim

8. Planetary gear shaft

9 Planetary gear adjusting shim

10, 14. Drive gear shaft bearing

11. Drive gear shaft adjusting shim

12. Drive gear sleeve

13. Differential oil seal

15. Mounting bolt

Ⅱ. Trouble diagnosis Troubles

Causes ·The gear oil deteriorates or contains water. ·The gear oil is inadequate or the brand is wrong. ·The clearance between the bevel drive gear and the bevel driven gear is incorrect.

Gear noises ·The meshing contact of the bevel drive gear and the bevel driven gear is improper.

Troubleshooting Change and refill the oil Change or refill the oil Adjust Adjust or change

·The fixed bolts of the bevel driven gear get loose.

Change or re-tighten

·The differential side gear or the drive gear is damaged.

Change

·(Unchanged noise) the gear oil deteriorates or contains water.

Change and refill the oil

·(Unchanged noise) the gear oil is inadequate or the brand is wrong.

Change and refill the oil

·(Noises produced in sliding) the bevel drive gear bearing is damaged.

Change

Bearing noises Change

·(Noises produced in turning) the differential side gear bearing or the rear axle bearing is damaged.

Oil leak

·The air plug is clogged.

Clean up

·The oil seal is worn or damaged.

Change

·The oil is too much.

Adjust the oil level

Ⅲ. In-car maintenance

1. Change of gear oil 1) Remove the oil drain plug to discharge gear oil. 2) Re-install the oil drain plug and tighten it to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 35~50N·m 3) Remove the sealing gasket and oil filler plug, and fill the new oil that meet requirements into the differential case. About 1.3L gear oil shall be filled.

Oil volume

1.3L

Gear oil

SAE90 or SAE80W or 75W/80~85

Notice: As for the cars travelling in the areas where the temperature is below-15℃ in cold seasons, it is recommended to use 75W/90 GL-5 or 80 W/90 GL-5 for periodic maintenance. 4) Fit on the sealing gasket and oil filler plug, and tighten them to the specified torque. Tightening torque (b): 35~50N·m 2. Disassembly 1) Stop the car on a safety platform, and then pull out the left/right axle shaft. See ―Disassembly of Rear Axle‖ in Chapter 5 in the manual for the method. 2) Unscrew the bolts connecting the final drive, flange and drive shaft flange from the deferential case to strip off the drive shaft. Unscrew the 8 bolts connecting the final drive and axle housing to take down the final drive and differential.

3. Assembly The assembly shall be in the reverse order of disassembly, and pay attention to the following requirements: ·Clean the joint face of the differential and axle housing first before inserting the differential into the axle housing, and apply sealant to it. After assembly, tighten the bolts to the specified torque. “A”: sealant 99000-31110 Tightening torque (a): 18-28N·m ·For the assembly of rear suspension, please see the ―Assembly of Rear Axle‖ the Chapter 4 in the manual. ·For filling gear oil, see the chapter of ―Change of Oil‖. ·To make sure the air in the brake oil pipe circuit is expelled, see the ―Exhaust‖ operation of brake in chapter 6. Finally check and make sure the oil pipe joint has no oil leak.

Ⅳ. Disassembly and repair 1. Disassembly 1) Clamp down the flange, and unscrew the adjusting nuts at the bevel drive gear shaft side. 2) Make a mark on every bearing cap of the differential. The bearing cap is to fasten axle bearings, and the mark is to identify bearings. As some bearings are left bearing, and some are right bearing, they shall be marked to make it easy to identify and install in reassembly.

A: Assembly mark

3) Unscrew the lock bolts and bearing cap bolts and remove the left and ring bearing caps, and then take out the differential assembly from the final drive housing. 4) Use a special tool to remove the right axle bearing from the differential case. Special tools (A): 09913-60910 (B): 09913-85230

1. Lock bolt

1. Right axle bearing

5) Unscrew the bolts fixing the bevel driven gear on differential case, and then remove the gear. 6) As shown in the figure, pull out the planetary gear shaft, side gear and thrust washer. Special tool (C): 09922-85811

7) Use a special tool to remove the left axle bearing from the differential case. Special tools (A): 09913-60910 (B): 09915-85250 2. Adjustment

1. Left axle shaft bearing

Differential side gear clearance Check the gear clearance with soft fuses. According to the clearance check standard, squash the fuse and measure its thickness, and compare it with the specified clearance in the following table.

If necessary, change the thickness of thrust washers to adjust the clearance.

Side gear clearance

0.05~0.15mm

Thrust washer thickness

0.9, 1.0, 1.1&1.2mm

Notice:

1. Gasket or plate

If the fuse fails to measure the differential side gear clearance, the side gear thrust clearance shall be measured. If the maximum thrust clearance is 0.37mm, the side gear clearance is considered acceptable. To measure the thrust clearance, a suitable flat washer or gasket shall be placed on the side gear. Special tool: (A): 09900-20606 Determine the thickness of the bevel drive gear adjusting shim.

1. Nut 2. Spring rod (range: 1-5 or 1-19kg) 3.Torque wrench 4. Coupling sleeve To correctly mesh the bevel drive gear with the driven gear, it is required to use the adjusting shim below to fit the drive gear to the final drive housing beforehand. The following is the relevant position of the drive gear, final drive housing and installation copying machine. 1) Fit the bevel drive gear installation copying machine with bearings into the differential final drive housing and tighten the flange nuts so as to make the bearing pre-load meet the specification. Notice:

·Gaskets or oil seals are unnecessary for the assembly. ·Manually check the bearing to make sure whether it can rotate, and apply a little lubricating oil to it before measuring it with a spring balance or torque wrench. Special tools (A): 09922-75222 (B): 09924-36320 Drive gear bearing pre-load －

(a): 5.0~13.0×10 3N·m Initial torque:1.0~2.6×10

－3

N·m

2) Considering the machining and assembling factors, the number of gaskets used for the bevel drive gear is different. Thus, to every car, a different number of gaskets shall be used to correctly locate the planetary gears. (As there is a suitable clearance between the bevel drive gear and the driven gear) the gasket thickness shall be determined again for every assembly. To make it easy to determine, two special tools shall be put in use. The following method is determined according to this special tool. Then one of the two planetary gear copying tools is placed in the deferential case, with no gasket installed, as shown in the figure. Special tool (A): 09924-36320 (B): 09900-20606 3) Place a dial indicator on the copying tool, with its probe stretching 5~6mm out the copying tool bottom. Place the copying tool on a plate to return the dial indicator to zero. Special tools (A): 09924—36320 (B): 09900—20606 4) Fit a copying planetary gear into the final drive housing, as shown in the figure, and locate it properly. Tightening torque See the figure, and pay attention to the three dimensions: ―a‖, ―b‖ and ―c‖. ―b‖ value is unknown, and is the gasket thickness to be calculated. ―a‖ + ―c‖ equals 85mm.

1. Plate 2. Screw

5) In case the copying machine is firmly fixed, dial indicator finger has deflected from ―0‖ to indicate a valve, which is ―b‖. This value adds 85mm (―a‖ + ―c‖) and then subtracts the value marked on the bevel drive gear is the desired gasket thickness. Equation of gasket thickness: (85 + ―b‖) – marked value = desired gasket thickness.

1. Stated value

6) The are four gaskets of different thickness for option. In selecting and combining the gaskets, be sure that the total thickness shall be consistent with the desired thickness as much as possible. Then insert the selected gasket into the clearance ―d‖, as shown in the figure.

―d‖ clearance Bevel drive gear gasket dimension

0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, & 0.5mm

Adjustment of bevel drive gear bearing pre-load

1. Electric wrench 2. Socket spanner 3. Spring balance 4. Torque wrench

Pay attention to setting the drive gear pre-load to the specified value when using a flange localizer (special tool) and electric wrench to tighten up the flange nuts Notice: ·Manually check the bearing to make sure whether it can rotate smoothly before measuring it with spring balance or torque wrench. ·The method of adjusting bevel drive gear bearing pre-load is to tighten the drive gear nuts and compression pad. Thus new pads must be used in adjusting and the nuts shall be gradually tightened up. 1. Bearing case bolt

In tightening it up, check the initial torque at any time to avoid crushing the pad. In adjusting, if the following given specification is exceeded, change the pad and repeat the pre-load adjusting procedures. Do not unscrew the gear nuts to reduce the initial torque (pre-load). Bevel drive gear bearing pre-load: 5.0~13.0×10 Initial torque: 1.0~2.6×10

－3

－3

N·m

N·m

Special tools (A): 09922-75222 (B): 09922-66020 Bevel driven gear clearance adjustment 1) Check the clearance between the bevel driven gear and the drive gear by the method as shown in the figure. Notice that the final drive housing assemble shall be installed by common methods, and the axle bearing bolts shall be tightened up to fix the differential case assembly downwards. Align the dial indicator with the tooth root at the gear drive side (convex side). Then grasp the bevel drive gear to move the bevel driven gear to and fro. The reading of the dial indicator is the clearance, which shall be within the specified range. Tightening torque (a):

15N.m

Special tool (A): 09900-20606

1. Bearing cap bolt 2. Bearing adjuster

(B): 09900-20701 Bevel gear clearance: 0.10~0.20mm

Special tool (C): 09930-40113 Caution: In adjusting the clearance, regulate the pre-load value of the axle bearing: fit the torsion pulley (with a special tool) to the bevel drive gear and use a spring g to make measurement. If the torque reading is within the following specified range when the bevel driven gear

Spring gauge tester Bevel drive gear bearing pre-load + axle shaft bearing preload

2) In adjusting the gear clearance, the two adjustors shall be used, which shall be equally turned inwards or outwards (slightly unscrew the axle bearing cap nut at the same time). Turning one hole site of the adjustor may cause the clearance to change 0.1mm.

Bevel drive gear bearing pre-load

starts turning, the axle bearing pre-load can be considered acceptable. See the figure: for example, when the bevel drive gear bearing pre-load is 2.0kg, the bevel drive gear pre-load value (kg) plus axle bearing pre-load valve shall be 2.2~2.6kg. After adjusting, tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque. Special tool (D): 09922-75222 The tightening torque of bearing cap bolts after adjusted shall be: 30~37N·m Check and adjustment of the engagement of bevel drive gear and bevel driven gear Engagement system

Diagnosis and treatment

Outer end Driven surface Drive surface Front differential fails to operate

Engagement system

Diagnosis and treatment Change the differential case

Front differential drives

Inner end

Normal

Low contact The bevel drive gear is further back, so that the adjusting shim it shall be thickened.

1.Check the bevel driven gear stand or differential case. 2. Change the bevel drive gear or bevel driven gear. 3. Change the deferential case.

High contact

The bevel drive gear is further forward, so the adjusting shim it shall be thinned.

1. Change the drive gear or driven gear. 2. Change the deferential case.

Check the engagement of the gear teeth by the following method. 1) After the tooth surface of the 10 bevel driven gears are cleaned, use a brush or a sponge to apply coloring materials to the gears (red lead powder for instance). 2) Turn the driven gear to mesh the colored part with the bevel drive gear; manually turn the gear to and fro the mesh them repeatedly. 3) Check the engagement system (see the above table). If the engagement system is not correct, adjust them as indicated in the table or change them.

1. Brush A: apply gear mark compound evenly

Notice: The bevel driven gear shall not make a complete turn, for it will hinder making accurate checks. 3. Assembly The assembly shall be carried out in the reverse order of the disassembly, and pay attention to the following requirements: Notice: The bevel drive gear and the bevel driven gear are supplied in pairs. Even only the bevel drive gear or the bevel driven gear needs to be changed, they shall be changed simultaneously in pairs. Drive bolts of bevel driven gear The bolts that fasten the bevel driven gear to the differential case will undertake a shear stress, for it is through the bolts that the force is transferred from the driven gear to the differential case. Thus, these bolts shall be special purpose bolts made of chrome steel, and shall not be replaced with plain bolts. “A”: adhesive 99000-32020 Tightening torque (a): 80~90 N·m Bevel drive gear bearing The 2 tapered roller bearings must be fitted on the drive gear shaft by pressing, with the outer race fitted into the final drive housing and the inner race fitted to the bevel drive gear shaft. 1) The outer race of the front bearing (at the yoke side) shall be installed with a special tool: Special tool (A): 09913-75520

2) The installer for the outer race of the rear bearing (at the gear side) is: Special tool (B): 09915-75510 3) The special tool used for fitting inner race is: Special tool (C): 09940-51710 Differential axle bearing Use a special tool to correctly fit the bearing into the differential case by pressing. Do not hit them into the case. Special tool (A): 09940-53111

Ⅴ. Servicing materials Materials

Recommended Suzuki product

Use

Thread sealant

Superthread sealant 1333B(9000-32020)

Bevel driven gear bolt

Lithium grease

Suzuki super grease A (99000-25010)

Oil seal cover lip ·Oil drain plug

Sealant

Suzuki 1215 (99000-31110)

·Fitting surface of final drive and axle housing

Ⅵ. Special tools

Bearing removal clip

Dial indicator

Bearing installer

Spring platinum puller

Bearing installer

Rotor spacer

Bearing installer

Magnetic stand

Bevel drive gear installation Preload adjuster copying machine

Bearing/gear puller

Chapter Ⅳ Drive system Section Ⅰ Front suspension Ⅰ. Composition The front suspension is an independent strut-and-link type suspension, as shown in the following figure. The strut upper end connects the car body through a strut member. The strut and the strut member are separated by a rubber mounting member, under which a strut bearing is fitted. The lower end of the strut connects the steering knuckle‘s upper end, which links the ball stud. The ball stud integrates the swing arm to form a device. The tie rod connects the steering knuckle. Thus the action of the steering wheel is transferred to the tie rod and then to the steering knuckle so as to turn the wheels. During the operating procedure, with the motion of the steering knuckle, the strut will move through strut bearing and lower ball stud.

Top view

Front view

: Direction of forward motion 1. Front strut assemble 2. Steering knuckle 3. Suspension swing arm 4. Ball stud 5. Wheel bearing 6. Front hub 7. Front wheel 8. Stabilizer bar 9. Strut bar 10. Steering tie rod

Front suspension assembly drawing

1. Front strut boot 2. Strut nut 3. Strut lock washer 4. Strut rebound stroke limiting stopper 5. Strut member 6. Strut inner support 7. Strut bearing saddle 8. Strut bearing 9. spring upper support 10. Strut spring rubber support 11. shock absorber limiting stopper 12. Coil spring 13. Front strut assembly

Front strut assembly drawing

Ⅱ. Check and Adjustment 1. Checks on stabilizer bar and bushing Stabilizer bar Check to make sure whether there is damage or deformation; if there are defects, change them. Bushing Check to make sure whether there is damage, wear or deterioration; if there are defects, change them.

2. Strut bar and bushing Strut bar Check to make sure whether there is damage or deformation; if there are defects, change them. Bushing Check to make sure whether there is damage, wear or deterioration; if there are defects, change them.

3. Check on front strut assembly 1) Check if the shock absorber leaks oil. If it does leak oil, it shall be changed entirely, for it is impossible to be disassembled. 2) Check and adjust the tire pressure according to requirements. In checking the shock absorber, push hard the lateral front car body to swing the car for three to four times. Exercise the same force every

time and notice the damping property of the shock absorber. Additionally, pay attention to how many times the car swings after the hands leave the car. Do the same thing to the other side of the car. Then compare the damping properties and rebound times of the left and right shock absorber, which must be consistent. If the shock absorbers are normal, the car shall stop swinging immediately after the hands leave it, or slightly swing one to two times. This can be compared with other cars with normal shock absorbers or shock absorbers. 3) Check if there is damage or deformation. 4) Check if the bearings has wear, abnormal noise or clamping. 5) Check if the spring saddles have cracks or deformation. 6) Check if the damping limiting stoppers are damaged. 7) Check if the rebound limiting stoppers and strut mounting members have wear, cracks or deformation. If there are parts found to be flawed in the steps 2) -7), change them. 4. Checks on swing arm/steering knuckle Check if there are cracks, deformation or damage. 5. Check on swing arm bushing Check if there is damage or wear. 6. Checks on swing arm ball stud 1) Check if it can rotate smoothly. 2) Check if the ball stud is damaged. 3) Check if the boot is damaged. 4) Check the ball stud clearance. If there are defects, change it. Notice: The swing is and ball stud cannot be separated from each other. Either of them is damaged, the swing is assembly shall be changed as a whole. 7. Checks on wheel discs, nuts and bearings 1) Check if the wheel discs have dents, deformation and cracks. The wheels that are badly damaged must be changed. 2) Check if the wheel nuts are firm. If necessary, tighten them up again as required. Tightening torque

 Forward 1. Stabilizer bar 6. Stabilizer bar joint nut 2. Mounting bushing 7. Washer 3. Mounting bushing support 8. Cushion 4. Mounting frame bolt 9. Stabilizer bar joint nut 5. Stabilizer bar joint 10. Strut bar

(a): 85N·m 3) Check the wear of wheel bearings. In measuring the thrust clearance, remove the wheel axle cover from the wheel disc first and then use a dial indicator to measure at the hub. Thrust clearance limit: “a”: 0.1mm。 If the measured value exceeds the limit, change the hub assembly. 4) Check if the wheel axles have noises by turning the wheels and if they can turn smoothly. If there are defects, change the hub assembly.

Ⅲ. In-car maintenance

1. Stabilizer bar 2. Painting point 3. Stabilizer bar joint 4. Strut bar

1.Stablizer bar and bushing Disassembly 1) Jack up the car to hang the front swing arm in the air. 2) Remove the stabilizer bar connecting nut, washer and cushion. 3) Remove the stabilizer bar mounting bush bracket bolts. 4) Remove the stabilizer bar and its joints. 5) Remove the joints from the stabilizer bar. When the joint nuts are unscrewed, the bolts shall be held by a wrench. Assembly ·In assembling the stabilizer bar, all the parts shall be fitted together in order and make sure that the stabilizer bar is at the center. Notice: To correctly install the stabilizer bar, the colored paint on it shall be aligned with the left and right mounting

bushings, as shown in the figure. ·Tighten the bolts and nuts to the specified torque. Caution: Be careful to tighten the stabilizer connecting nuts so as to coincide the cushion with the washer. Tightening torque: (a): 25 N·m (b): 55 N·m (c): 23N·m 2. Strut bar and bushing

1. Strut bar mounting bolt 5. Strut bar rear nut 2. Strut bar support 6. Strut bar front nut 3. Strut bar bushing 7. Strut bar 4. Strut bar rear washer 8. Suspension swing arm 9. Strut bar front washer

Disassembly 1) Jack up the car to hang the front suspension in the air. 2) Remove the stabilizer bar. Please refer to the steps 2) -4) ―Removal of Stabilizer Bar Bushing‖. 3) Remove the front and rear strut bar nuts. 4) Remove the strut bar. 5) Remove the strut bar support from the car body.

1. Strut bar front nut 3.Strut bar 2. Strut bar rear nut 4. Swing arm

1. Strut bar support mounting bolt 2. Strut bar support

Assembly The assembly shall be made in the reverse order of disassembly, while attention shall be paid to the following points: See the right figure to correctly install the strut bar bushing and its rear washer. Use new strut bar rear nuts. Every bolt and nut shall be tightened to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 55 N·m

E shaped ring

(b): 65 N·m (c): 95N·m 3. Front strut assembly If there are parts in the front strut assembly damaged, please change the strut assembly, which is removed by the flowing procedures. Disassembly 1) Remove the battery negative wires. 2) Jack up the car to hang the front suspension in the air. 3) Take down the wheels. 4) As shown in the figure, remove the E-shaped ring used to fix brake hoses and remove the brake hoses from the strut support. 5) As shown in the figure, remove the caliper pin bolts and incline the caliper. Caution: When the caliper is inclining, be careful not pull hard the brake hose so as to avoid damage. 6) Remove the wire harness retainer bolt of wheel speed sensor from the strut (if equipped).

1. Caliper pin bolt 2. Brake hose 3. Caliper

7) Remove the strut support bolts. 8) Remove the strut member nuts and hold them by hand to avoid falling down. 9) Remove the strut assembly.

1. Nut

1. Strut bracket nut 4. Bracket end face 2. Strut support nut 5. Caliper pin bolt 3. E-shaped ring ―A‖: Apply rubber grease

Assembly 1) Assemble them in the reverse order of the disassembly procedures from 1) to 9), and fit the bolts on the positions as shown in the right figure. 2) Tighten all the fasteners to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 73 N·m (b): 95 N·m (c): 35 N·m Notice: Do not bend the brake hoses in assembly. Fit the E-shaped ring to the bracket as shown in the figure. 4. Hub/wheel stud Disassembly 1) Jack up the car and remove the wheels. 2) Remove the axle cover as shown in the figure (tap the three points around the cover with a hammer, and be careful not to deform or damage the axle cover seat). 3) Unscrew the wheel axle nuts. 4) Remove the wheel axle nuts.

1. Axle cover

1. Wheel axle nut

5) Remove the caliper bracket bolts. 6) Remove the caliper and the bracket together. Note: Lift the caliper with a crampon and alike to avoid the brake hoses being excessively bent or pulled out. Do not press the brake pedal after brake discs are removed. 7) Remove the brake discs with two 8mm bolts.

8) Remove the hub with a special tool Special tools (A): 09943—17912 (B): 09942—15510

9) Remove the hub bolts Notice: Do not remove the bolts unless it is necessary to change parts. New bolts shall be used when the parts are changed. Assembly Assembly of hub bolt 1) Insert the new bolts into the hub holes, and turn them slowly to make their serration consistent with that before.

1. Hammer 2. Hub bolt

Fit the hub to the wheel axle, and tighten the new wheel axle nuts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 175 N·m 2) Install the brake discs. 3) Install the brake caliper/ caliper bracket 4) Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (b): 95N·m

1. Oil pressure unit 2. Rod 3. Hub bolt

5) Screw up the wheel axle nuts as shown in the figure. Warning: Be careful to screw up the nuts so as not to let the lock groove of the nuts have cracks. The cracked nuts must be changed. 6) Fit the hub to the axle cover. 7) Fit on the wheels and lower the lift platform.

1. Strut front nut 3. Ball stud nut 5. Swing arm nut

2. Ball stud 4. Swing arm bolt 6. Swing arm

5. Swing arm/bushing Disassembly 1) Jack up the car and remove the wheels. 2) Remove the strut bar front nuts from the swing arm. 3) Remove the ball stud and nuts. 4) Remove the swing arm bolts and nuts.

1. Hydraulic equipment

5) Remove the swing arm. 6) Remove the bushing. Use a special tool and the hydraulic equipment to pull out the bushing, as shown in the figure. Special tool (A): 09943-77910 Assembly 1) Bushing installation Special tool (A): 09943-77910 Notice: ·Before installing the busing, dip it in soapy water to make it easier to be installed. ·As shown in the figure, the dimension of left and right sides of the bushing shall be equal after installed.

1. Hydraulic equipment

2) Fit the swing arm to the suspension. The bolts and nuts shall be fit on the correct position, as shown in the right figure.

1. Swing arm  Forward

Notice:： The nuts shall not be tightened. 3) Fit the ball stud to the steering knuckle, aligning the ball stud groove with the steering knuckle bolt holes as shown in the figure. Then screw in the ball stud bolts in the direction as shown in the figure and tighten them to the required torque. Tightening torque (a): 55 N·m

1. Steering knuckle 2. Ball stud

4) Tighten the strut bar front bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (b): 100N·m

1. Strut bar 2. Strut bar front nuts 3. Swing arm 5) Fit on the wheels and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque. See “Technical Requirement of Tightening Torque” in this section. 6) Let down the jack and tighten the swing arm nuts to the specified torque under the condition of no load. Tightening torque (c)：73N·m 7) Check the tie-in and adjust it according to requirements. 6.Steering knuckle

1. Strut 2. Steering knuckle

3. Ball stud 3. Swing arm

Disassembly 1) Jack up the car and remove the wheels. 2) Remove the hubs. See the procedures 2) -8) in “Hub/Wheel Bolt” in this section. 1. Steering knuckle 2. Tie rod end 3. Puller

3) Use a puller to remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. 4) Remove the wheel speed sensor (if equipped) from the steering knuckle. 5) Remove the ball stud from the steering knuckle, and then remove the strut bracket bolts from the strut bracket.

6) Remove the steering knuckle. Assembly 1) Fit the steering knuckle to the ball stud and strut bracket on the swing arm, with the installation position as shown in the figure. Align the steering knuckle bolt holes with the ball stud groove to fit on the ball stud bolts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 95N·m

1. Strut 3. Ball stud arm 2. Steering knuckle 4. Swing arm

1. Tie rod end 2. Steering knuckle 3. Nut

(b): 55N·m 2) Fit on the wheel speed sensor (if equipped) 3) Connect the tie rod end with the steering knuckle, and tighten the new nuts at the tie rod end to the specified torque. Tightening torque (c): 45 N·m Notice In tightening the nuts at the tie rod end, jack up the tie rod end so as not to move the ball stud. 4) The procedures of assembly are as mentioned above. See the steps 1) -7) in “Hub/Wheel Bolt” in this section. 7. Suspension bracket

1. Suspension bracket 2. Steering gearbox housing mounting bolt

Disassembly 1) Jack up the car and remove the wheels 2) Remove the swing arms (left and right). See the steps from 2) to 5) in “Removal of Swing Arms” in this section. 3) Remove the steering gearbox housing mounting bolts.

1. Wheel speed sensor wire harness clamp 2. Wheel speed sensor wire harness clamp 3. Suspension bracket bolt  Wheel side

4) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire harness clamp bolts and clamps (if equipped) from the suspension bracket. 5) Remove the suspension bolts and its bracket. Assembly 1) Fit on the suspension bracket and tighten its bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 100N·m 2) Fit the wheel speed sensor wire harness clamp bolts and clamps to the suspension bracket (if equipped). 3) Fit on the steering gearbox housing mounting bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. Tightening torque (b): 25 N·m 4) Fit on the swing arms (left and right). See the steps from 2) to 6) in “Removal of Swing Arms” in this section. 5) Make sure whether the (wheel) front end is aligned.

Ⅳ.Special tools

1. 09900-0041 Hexagon wrench socket 2. 09900-00414 Hexagon wrench head

09943-77910 Adjusting puller

09945-26010 Socket wrench

09942-15510 Sliding weight

bushing

1. Suspension bracket bolt 2. Steering gearbox bolt

09943-17912 Front hub puller (brake drum puller)

Section Ⅱ Rear suspension Ⅰ. Composition The rear suspension system is of integral axle type which makes use of leaf springs, as shown in the figure below.

1. Leaf spring

2. Limiting stopper

3. telescopic shock absorber 4. buffer stopper

Rear suspension assembly drawing

Ⅱ. Disassembly and assembly

1. Lock washer 2. Nut (upper support) 3. Washer 4. Shock absorber bushing 5. Shock absorber 6. Washer 7. Lock washer 8. Nuts (lower support) 9. Upper support screw (fixed on bracket) 10. Lower support screw (fixed on leas spring assembly)

1. Shock absorber Disassembly 1) Crane up the car. 2) Remove the lower support nuts. 3) Remove the upper support nuts and then remove the shock absorber. Assembly 1) Refer to the figure below to install the shock absorber. 2) Screw up the nuts. 3) Let down the crane. 2. Leaf spring Disassembly Leaf spring 1) Lift up the car. In doing so, the jack or crane shall not prop the rear suspension parts to jack or lift up the car. If a jack is made use of, a safety platform must be placed under the car chassis to support the jacked car. Notice: Do not let the rear axle housing hang on the brake hoses or pipes. If so, the hoses or pipes may be ripped. To avoid such case, a safety platform shall be used to support the rear axle housing of the jacked car any time.

2) Remove the rear wheel and release the parking brake cable from the clip. 3) Remove the U-shaped bolts and nuts. 4) Remove the lug nuts and leaf spring front nuts. 5) Pull out the leaf spring front bolts and tear down the leaf spring from the lug pin. Assembly Lug pin bushing Make press fit for lug pin bushing. Dip the bushing in water or soapy water to make it easy. Notice: Any oil shall not be applied to the bushing.

1. Leaf spring

2. Leaf spring bushing

Leaf spring 1) Install the lug pins from the car center to the outside. 2) Fit on the leaf spring front bolts from the car outside to the inside. 3) Fit the leaf spring center bolts and nuts into the spring seat holes, and the tighten the U-shaped bolts and nuts to the specified torque. 4) Tighten the lug pin nuts and spring front nuts to the specified torque under no-load conditions. 5) Link the parking brake cable with cable clips. 6) Fit on the rear wheels and tighten them to the specified torque. 7) Let down the crane.

U-shaped bots and nuts of Leaf spring

Leaf spring front busing When the front bushing is pressed into the leaf spring, its narrow notch shall point forward. Upside Notch (wide) Forward

Rear

Notch (narrow) Tighten up the 4 U-shaped bolts and nuts evenly so as to let their ―B‖ measurement equal.

Leaf spring Every piece of leaf spring shall be aligned at the edge.

1. Leaf spring 2. Leaf spring bushing

Forward

Rear Spring upper seat

Nut

Spring lower seat Center bolt and nut bolt Car body center

3. Wheel bearing and axle shaft Disassembly 1) Check if the brake parking lever is not pulled up. 2) Jack up the car and remove the rear wheels. 3) Unscrew the oil drain plug to discharge the differential oil from the axle housing.

Leaf spring

4) Release the brake parking lever. 5) Pull out the brake drum with 8mm bolts. 6)Rotate the brake shoe pressure pin to remove the brake shoe pressure spring.

8mm bolt

1. parking brake shoe lever 2. parking brake cable 3. Brake shoe 7) Take apart the parking brake cable from the parking brake shoe lever and remove the brake shoe. 8) Remove the parking brake cable clip and disassemble the brake cable from the brake bottom plate.

1. Parking brake cable 2. Clip

Intake plug cover

9) Draw out the brake fluid by pumps or alike, and then remove the brake pipes from the car brake cylinder, and meanwhile use a intake plug cover or alike to cover the pipe end to avoid the brake fluid flowing out. 10) Remove the brake bottom plate nut from the rear axle housing. 11) Use the special tools (A and B) to pull out the axle shaft connecting with the brake bottom plate. 12) Pull out the axle shaft.

Sliding weight

Brake drum puller Rear axle shaft

Graded out by lapping machine

Rear wheel bearing retainer 13) To remove the retainer form the axle shaft, use a lapping machine to grind the two parts of the bearing retainer till they get thin, as shown in the figure. Caution: Be careful not grind over the head surface to damage the axle shaft. Universal puller Use a chisel to unclench the thinned part of the retainer and remove it.

Bearing puller 14) Use the special tools (C and D) to remove the bearing from the axle shaft and then remove the brake bottom plate.

Assembly 1) Fit the parts shown in the figure below to the axle shaft.

Retainer

Notice: · Fit on the wheel bearing spacer with its inside diameter beveled side orientated to the brake drum side.

Differential side Spacer

· Fit on the wheel bearing with tis seal side orientated to the brake drum side.

Bearing

Beveled side

Hub bolt

Seal side

When fitting the hub bolts to the axle shaft, make sure the bolt head firmly fits into the cascading part of the axle shaft. 2) Press into the new bearings and retainers in order by an oil press.

Notice: The exterior surface of the retainer shall be protected against damage then. If it is damaged, the rear of the oil seal will be worn, and the differential oil will leak to the brake shoe side. Pressing into the retainer needs a 3t to 5t pressure. 3) If it is sure that the retainer contacts the bearing, clean up the retainer and apply adequate wheel bearing grease to the it. 4) Check to make sure that the oil seal seat and the oil seal are both correctly fitted to the rear axle. Notice: Oil No matter whether there is oil leak, the oil seal, if removed, shall be a new oneseal for reassembly. Spring Refer to the right figure for the installation direction of oil seal. Be sure to apply superior grease A (99000-25010) to the oil seal lip. Apply grease Wheel side Differential side

1. Axle shaft oil seal 2. Protector 3. Rear axle

5) Apply a type of waterproof sealant to the joints of rear axle and brake bottom plate.

Apply waterproof sealant (Sealant 366E) (99000-310990)

6) Fit the axle shaft into the rear axle housing and tighten the brake bottom plate firmly to the specified torque.

7) Remove the intake plug cover from the pipe end, and then connect the brake pipe to the wheel brake cylinder and tighten the coupling nuts to the specified torque.

8) Apply waterproof sealant to the contact of the plate and the wire cable, and then thread the parking brake cable through the brake bottom plate and buckle it up tightly with a clip.

Apply waterproof sealant (99000-31090)

9) Connect the brake shoe lever to the brake parking lever and fit on the brake shoe.

1. Parking brake cable

2. Clamp

10) Before installing the brake drum, to let the clearance between the brake shoe and the brake drum to maximum, put a screwdriver between the support bar and the ratchet to remove the ratchet as shown in the figure.

Support bar

Ratchet

The position of the ratchet shown in the left figure is that when the clearance between the brake shoe and the brake drum.is maximum.

The position of the ratchet shown in the left figure is that when the clearance between the brake shoe and the brake drum.is maximum.

Support bar

Ratchet

11) Fit on the brake drum. 12) Fill a given amount of specified gear oil into the rear axle housing (differential gearbox), and tighten the plugs of the oil filler and oil drain hole to the specified torque. 13) Exhaust the air in the brake pipe, and refill the brake fluid into the fluid reservoir. 14) Fit on the rear wheel and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque. Wheel nut tightening torque: 50~80N·m

15) While completing all the operation, press the brake pedal three to five times with a 400N loads so as to allow a suitable clearance between the brake shoe and the brake drum. 16) Check the brake drum to make sure it can rotate freely and play a proper role in braking, and then let down the jacked car to carry out brake test. 17) Check whether there is leakage of differential oil and brake fluid.

Ⅲ. In-car maintenance Rear shock absorber 1) Check if it is deformed or damaged. 2) Check if the bushing is worn or damaged. 3) Check if there is oil leak. If there are defective parts, change them. Leaf spring and buffer stopper Check if they have cracks or damage. If they are defective, change them. Check if the buffer stopper is fixed on the correct position. If it deviates, change it. Leaf spring bushing Check if it is worn or damaged. If it is found defective, change it. If there are abnormal noises in driving where the lug pin bushing is not worn, remove the bushing and apply grease to the parts shown in the figure.

Spread a thin layer of silicone grease and let it harden on the surface. (Be sure to use the silicone grease that will not affect the rubber) Silicone grease: 99000-25190 Wheel disc, nut and bearing 1) Check if the wheel discs have dents, deformation and cracks. The wheel discs that are badly damaged shall be changed. 2) Check if the wheel nuts are tightened up, and tighten the to the specified torque as necessary.

3) Check if the wheel bearings are worn. In measuring the axial clearance, set a dial indicator on the hub when the wheel center cap is removed from the wheel disc. If the measured value exceeds the limit, change the bearings. 4) Jack up the car frame and turn the wheels to check whether the wheel bearings have noises and whether they can rotate smoothly. If there are undesirable phenomena, change the bearings. Tightening torque of wheel nuts: 70~100N·m Axial clearance limit: rear wheel

0.8mm

Ⅳ. Tightening torque of fastener Fasteners

Tightening torque (N·m)

1. Upper and lower nuts of shock absorber

35~45

2. Upper nut of shock absorber (only limited to van-body trucks)

22~35

3. U-shaped bolt and nut (or U-shaped bolt locknut)

53~60

4. Lug nut

30~55

5. Rear leaf spring front nut

60~85

6. Rea wheel brake nut

18~28

7. Coupling nut of brake pipe

14~18

8. Rear wheel nut

70~100

9. Rear axle housing drain hole plug

40~70

10. Rear axle housing oil filler plug

35~50

Section Ⅲ Wheel and tire Ⅰ. Composition Notice: all wheel fasteners are an integral part of the car, so they may even have impacts on the performance of critical components and systems, and bring about huge maintenance costs accordingly. If necessary to be changed, they must be replaced with those of the same brand or equivalence, and not with the inferior substitutes ever. They must, when reassembled, be tightened to the specified torque to ensure all parts of suitable tightness. Do not weld these fasteners so as to avoid excess damage or weakness in mental strength. 1. Tire This car is equipped with the following tires: 165/70R14 This type of tire is tubeless. The tire, when reaching to a certain pressure as specified, is such designed that it can still work normally when borne a maximum load.

Appropriate tire pressure and driving habits have a major influence on tire life . Sharp turns, fast acceleration and unnecessary hard braking will aggravate tear wear. 2. Tire There are two standard configuration for wheel: steel rim and aluminum rim: 14×5J (13×5J) 3. Tires for changes If it is necessary to change tires, it is recommended to use those the same as the original. See the tire schedule. The substitute tires shall be consistent with the original ones in terms of size, load range and structure. The tires of other types will result to influences on the travelling, driving, speedometer/ odometer readings, ground clearance, and the clearance between the tire or tire chain and the car body and chassis. Warning: Do not use tires of different types to the same car unless in emergency, for example radial ply tire or bias tire, or it will have a strong impact on the driving and even cause the care to go out of control. It is recommended to install new tires in pairs to the same axle. If only one tire needs to be changed, it must make a pair with the one which has the most tread patterns so as to ensure a consistent traction of the wheels in braking. The metric unit of tire pressure is kilopascal (kPa). Metric tire gauges can be available from the suppler. The right table lists the conversion of the three units: kPa, kgf/cm2 and psi for reference. 4．Change of tire If the wheels have bending, dents, great lateral or radial run-outs, air leakage in welding lines, prolonged bolt hole, untight lug bolt nuts or excessive rustiness, they must be changed. If the radial or lateral run-outs of the wheel exceed the limits in the table below, harmful vibration will be resulted from. The changed tires must be consistent with the original in terms of load capacity, diameter, rim deviation and assembly structure. The wheels of inappropriate size or type will have an impact on the life of wheels and bearings, cooling of brake, speedometer/odometer readings, ground clearance and the clearance between the tire and car body and chassis. To measure the run-out value of wheels, it is necessary to use a precise dial indicator. The tire can be fitted on the wheel or removed. For correct measurement, the wheel shall be fixed on wheel balancer alike.

1. Radial run-out 2. Lateral run-out

Measure the radial and lateral run-outs at the inner and outer sides of the rim flange. Put the dial indicator in place, and turn the wheel slowly to write down the reading on the dial indicator. When the measured run-out exceeds the specified value and cannot be adjusted by a balancing machine, the wheels

shall be changed. The readings resulted from welding lines, baking varnish or scratching shall be ignored.

Steel wheel

Radial run-out limit

Lateral limit

1.14mm

1.40mm

run-out

5. Metric nut with lug and wheel bolt All types of wheel use the metric nuts with lug and wheel bolts (specification: M12×12.5).

Ⅱ. Trouble diagnosis

[A]: Before balancing 1. Wheel run-out caused by serious defects [B]: After balancing 2. Place where balance weights are installed 3. Axle centerline

1. Trouble diagnosis table See Section Ⅰ, Chapter Ⅴ. 2. Wheel balance The balance of wheels and tires is divided into two types: static and dynamic balances. Static balance, as shown in the right figure, is to distribute the weight evenly around the wheel. Non-static balance will bring about wheel run-out, so it is called pitch, which will cause uneven tire wear. Dynamic balance, as shown in the right figure, is to equally distribute the weight along the two sides of the wheel centerline so as to avoid the wheel assembly swaying side to side. The wheels of dynamic imbalance will cause the car to yaw. The wheel of static balance is not always subject to dynamic balance.

Steps of balance test Mud deposit and alike must be removed from the rim.

[C]: Before balancing 1. Wheel run-out caused by serious defects [D]: After balancing 2. Place where balance weights are installed 3. Axle centerline

Warning: The stones in the tread pattern shall be eliminated so as to avoid hurting the operators when the wheel is turned and get good balance. The tires shall be checked for damage and then undergo the balance test as required by the equipment manufacturer. Balance adjustment on dynamic wheel balancer Most dynamic balancers are better than the built-in rotary balancers in terms of accuracy. They are easy to use and are able to provide dynamic (two surfaces) balance. Though they cannot rectify brake drum or brake disc imbalances, their accuracy suffices to overcome the defect. Their accuracy is always under 0.044kg. The method of aboard balancing varies with the equipment and tool manufacturers. In carrying out the balancing, please follow the manufacturer‘s recommendations. Warning: The wheel speed shall be limited to 55km/h. It is necessary to set the limit because of the action of differential planetary gear. When the driving wheel at one side turns and the one at the other side stop turning, the speedometer can only indicate half of the actual maximum wheel speed. Be careful in setting the driving wheel‟s limit speed, or the wheel speed may be too high, which will cause tire fracture or differential faults, and even serious personal injury or further damage to the car.

Ⅲ. Maintenance and slight adjustment 1. Wheel and tire Do not repair the wheels by welding, heating or sand blasting. All damaged wheels shall be changed. Bolts

1. Paint point

If bolts are found to be damaged, change them timely. Auxiliary tire and wheel The tires are installed in combination with the wheels at assembly plants. The tires and wheels are fitted together to undergo dynamic balance test. The tires and wheels are marked with paint so as not to damage the tire‘s dynamic balance, so pay attention to aligning the paint points on the tires and wheel in assembly. If it is impossible to confirm the paint points on the tire, please draw a line on the tire and wheel before removed to ensure their position are identical in reassembly. Tire pressure The tire pressure of any type of tires are carefully calculated to get desired travelling, stability and steering, reduce tire wear and prolong tire life. The tire pressure shall be checked once a month before long-distance driving when the tire is in a cooling state (the car is parked for more than 3 hours, or travels less than 1.6km). The tire pressure shall be adjusted to the specified

value as indicated by the labels on the door (right door if it is right hand steering)lock support bar. Traveling may cause the tire to heat, so it is normal when the tire pressure rises to 28kPa accordingly. Be careful not to exhaust the air or reduce the tire pressure immediately after a long-distance travel, for the air exhaust will reduce the ―cold tire pressure‖. If the tire pressure oversteps the recommended value, it will cause: 1. Difficult driving and reduction in riding comfort. 2.Tire cracks or tire damage, even tire burst. 3. Accelerating wear of central tire tread. Unequal tire pressure at the same axle will cause: 1. Uneven braking 2. Steering wheel deviation 3. Reduction in operability 4. deflection in accelerating The valve covers shall cover the valves to avoid ingress of dust and water. If the tire pressure is less than the recommended value, it will cause: 1. Tire squeal in turning. 2. Difficult steering 3. Accelerating and uneven heel-and-toe wear 4. cracks and ruptures in tire rim 5. Tire cord damage 6.Tire overheat 7. Reduction in operability 8. Fuel consumption increase Tire specification It is on the right door (the left door if it is a car with the steering wheel on the right-hand side) lock support bar. See this specification for the tire information. This specification gives the maximum load, tire size and applicable cold tire pressure.

1. Front tire 2. Rear tire 3. Spare tire

Tire rotation: To ensure the tires to be worn equally, they shall be rotated according to the right figure. When the car first travels

10,000km the tires shall be rotated. Then it is recommended to rotate the tires every 10,000km and adjust the tire pressure.

Ⅳ. In-car maintenance 1. Wheel Disassembly 1) Unscrew the wheel nuts about 180°(half a turn). 2) Lift up the car. 3) Remove the wheels Tightening torque of wheel nuts: 50~80N·m Notice: Do not unscrew the tight wheels by heating, for the heating will reduce the wheel life and damage the wheel bearings. Assembly The wheel nuts must be tightened to a suitable torque one after another to avoid bending the wheel and brake disc, as shown in the right figure. Additionally, the wheel nuts must be tightened to a suitable torque one after another to avoid bending the wheel and brake disc. Notice: Prior to wheel assembly, the rust set on the mounting surfaces of both the wheel and brake disc shall be scraped or brushed by a wire brush. In fitting on wheels, if the metal on the mounting surfaces fails to joint well, it may cause the wheel nuts to get loose, and even cause the wheel to come off the car in driving. 2. Tire Assembly and disassembly Installing or removing tires with tire changers shall follow the manufacturer‘s recommendations. Do not use the hand tool or the tire iron alone to change the tires, for they may damage the tire bead or the rim. A steel brush may be used to clean up the bead of rim, or heavy steel wool may be employed to eliminate the lubricant, old rubber and some rust. Before the tire is installed or removed, appropriate tire lubricant shall be properly applied to the tire bead. After the assembly, the tire shall be inflated to the specified tire pressure (as indicated in the tire specification) to let the bead completely sit on the ground. Notice: Do not stand on the tire when it is inflated, or the bead may break and cause serious personal injuries.

The tire shall not be inflated to exceed the specified tire pressure. If the bead fails to sit on the ground, it shall be deflated to lubricate and inflate it again. Over-inflation will cause bead rupture and serious personal injuries.。 Tire repair There are many different materials and methods for tire repair on the market. As these materials and methods are not all applicable to all the types of tires, tire manufacturers publish detailed descriptions about how and when to repair tires. These descriptions are available from tire manufacturers.

Chapter Ⅴ Steering system Section Ⅰ Trouble diagnosis Ⅰ. Diagnosis of common troubles As the troubles in steering involve such systems as steering system, suspension, wheels and tires, the factors of such aspects shall be considered in analyzing a trouble cause. Do not be confused by the symptoms of failure, and make a road test for the cars first to confirm them. Then do checks according to the following methods and eliminate the troubles that are found out. 1) Check whether the tire pressure is normal and whether the tire is evenly worn. 2) Jack up the car to check if there front and rear suspensions, steering gear racks and pinions get loose or have worn parts. 3) Turn the front wheels rapidly to check if the tire is out of circularity or unbalanced, if the rim is deformed or if the wheel bearing is loose or tight.

Troubles

Wheel deviation

Causes ·The tires are unmatched or uneven.

Change

·The tire pressure is not appropriate.

Adjust the tire pressure

·The front suspension springs are broken or sagging.

Change the springs

·The radial ply tire gets wrapped under cross force. ·The front wheel is misaligned. ·One running wheel drags (not disengaged). ·The front or rear suspension parts get loose, bent or damaged. ·The front suspension springs are broken or sagging. ·The tire is unbalanced.

Abnormal or excessive wear of tires

Troubleshooting

Change the tire Check and adjust the front wheel alignment Repair the front brake Tighten or change the suspension parts (components)

Change the springs Adjust the balance or changed the tire

·The front wheel is misaligned.

Check and adjust the front wheel alignment

·The strut (shock absorber) goes wrong.

Change the strut

·The road conditions are poor.

Change the tire

·The car is overloaded.

Change the tire

·The tires fail to be rotated timely.

Change or rotate the tire

·The wheel bearings are worn or loosened.

Change the wheel bearings

·The wheel or tire swings.

Change the wheel or tire

·The tire pressure is inadequate.

Adjust the tire pressure

·The tire has bulges or damage.

Change the tire

·The strut (shock absorber) is inappropriate.

Change the strut

·The tire or wheel is unbalanced.

Balance the wheel or change the tire or wheel

Wheel bounce

·The wheel bearings are damaged or worn.

Change the wheel bearings

·The ball stud of steering tie rod is worn.

Change the steering tie rod end

·The left and right ball studs of the front cantilever are worn. Front wheel shimmy, vibration and hop

Change the front cantilever

·The he radial runout of wheels is excessive. ·The tire has bulges or damage. ·The wheel assembly has overloaded radial runout. ·The front wheel is misaligned.

·The mounting bolts of steering gear box get loose.

Difficult steering

Causes

Change the tire Change the tire or wheel Check and change the front wheel alignment

·The steering link gets loosened or worn.

Troubles

Repair or change the wheel or change the tire

Tighten or change the steering link Tighten or change the gear box bolts Troubleshooting

·The tire pressure is inappropriate.

Inflate the tire to a suitable pressure.

·The ball joints of the steering tie rod or of the left and right front suspension arms are jammed.

Change the ball joints of the steering tie rod or the front suspension arm

·The front wheel is misaligned. ·The rack and pinion is improperly adjusted.

Check and adjust the front wheel‘s alignment. Check and adjust the torque of racks and

·The steering column.

pinions Repair or change

Great steering wheel clearance

·The wheel bearings are worn.

Change the wheel bearings

·The steering gear box bolts get loose.

Tighten up

·The rack and pinion is not adjusted correctly.

Check and adjust the torque of racks and pinions

·The steering shaft universal joint is worn.

Change the universal joint

·The end of the steering tie rod or the ball joint at the inner side of the steering tie rod is worn. ·The ball joints of left and right suspension arms are worn. ·The ball joint at the steering tie rod end is jammed. ·The ball joints are jammed. ·The steering column is jammed. Bad Returnability of steering wheel

·The racks and pinions are badly lubricated.

·The front wheel is misaligned. ·The racks and pinions are inappropriately adjusted.

Change the steering tie rod end or the steering tie rod

Change the front suspension arm

Change the steering tie rod end. Change the front suspension arm Repair or change Check, repair or apply lubricating oil to the racks or pinions Check and adjust the front wheel alignment Check and adjust the torque of racks and pinions. Adjust the tire pressure

·The tire inflation pressure is inadequate.

Steering noise (clatter or chug)

·The steering gear box bolts are loose.

Tighten

·The wheel bearings are damaged or encounter with other failures.

Change

·The end of the steering tie rod is worn or cannot rotate freely. ·The racks and pinions are inappropriately

Change Check or adjust the torque of racks and pinions

adjusted.

·The steering tie rod end, (left and right front suspension arms) ball joints, ball joints at the inner side of the steering tie rod or transmission shaft joints are worn, loose or fail to rotate freely. ·The strut or mounting members are damaged.

Abnormal knocking front wheel

of

Change the steering tie rod end, front suspension arm, steering tie rod or transmission shaft joint

Repair or change Change 。

·The cantilever bushing is worn.

Tighten the bolts and change the bushing

·The stabilizer bar gets loosened.

Tighten the wheel bolts

·The wheel bolts are loose.

Tighten suspension bolts or nuts

·The suspension bolts or nuts get loosened.

Change the wheel bearings

·The wheel bearings are damaged or have other faults. ·he suspension springs are damaged.

Change the springs Apply lubricating oil or change the strut bearings Change

·The strut bearings are insufficiently lubricated or worn. ·The connecting ball joints of the stabilizer bar are worn or are not flexible.

Troubles

Steering swing or poor steering stability

Causes

Troubleshooting

·The tires are unmatched or the inflation pressure is uneven.

Change the tires or inflate the tires to a suitable pressure

·The front cantilever ball joints and steering tie rod end get loosened.

Change the suspension arm or steering tie rod end

·The shock absorber/strut or mounting members are out of order.

Change the strut or repair mounting members

·The stabilizer bar gets loosened.

Tighten or repair the stabilizer bar or bushing

·The springs are damaged or hang down.

·The racks and pinions are inappropriately adjusted. ·The front wheel is misaligned.

Instable steering in braking

Change the springs Check and adjust the racks and pinions

·The connecting ball joints of the stabilizer bar are loose.

Check and adjust the front alignment

·The wheel bearings are worn.

Change the wheel bearings

·The springs are damaged or hang down.

Change the springs

·The tire is under-inflation.

Inflate the tires to a suitable pressure

·The front wheel is misaligned.

Check and adjust the front wheel alignment

·The brake works inconsistently.

Change the connecting ball joints of the stabilizer bar

See chapter 7

Car height is low or inclined.

The suspension is pressed down to the bottom.

The car deflects or shakes in turning.

·The springs are broken or hang down.

Change the spring

·Overloaded.

Check the loads

·The springs are misused.

Change the spring

·The shock absorber or strut breaks down.

Change the shock absorber or strut

·Overloaded.

Check the loads

·The shock absorber or strut is out of order.

Check the shock absorber or strut

·The springs are out of order or hang down.

Change the springs

·The stabilizer bar is loosened or damaged.

Tighten the stabilizer bar bolts or nuts, or change the bushing or joints

·The shock absorber, strut or mounting member is out of order. ·The springs are damaged or hang down. ·Overloaded

The tire concave.

gets

Change the strut or mounting members Change the springs Check the loads

·The front strut is defective.

Change

·The wheel bearings are worn.

Change the wheel bearings

·The runout of tires and wheels are great.

Change the tires or rims

·The ball joints of the front cantilever are

Change the front suspension arm

worn.

Adjust the tires

·The tires are not balanced.

Ⅱ. Diagnosis of tire troubles 1．Irregularity or premature wear There are many causes for irregularity or premature wear. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressure, no tire rotation, bad driving habits and inappropriate alignment of front wheel. The tires must be rotated if any of the following cases happens: 1) The wear of front tires is different from that of the rear tires. 2) The lateral ground contact surface has uneven wear. 3) The wear of the left and right front tires is different. 4) The wear of the left and right rear tires is different. 5) There are dents in the tires or the tires get bald. The wheels must undergo an alignment check if any of the following cases happens: 1) The wear of the left and right front wheels are not equal. 2) The lateral ground contact surface of the front tires has uneven wear. 3) There is pinnate wear at the side of tread ribs or tread blocks. Difficult turning due to under-inflation or failure to rotate tires

Incorrect tire alignment, uneven tire structure or difficult acceleration

2. Wear indicator The original tires are equipped with built-in tread wear indicators to examine whether there is need for change. When the groove of the tread patterns is 1.6mm deep, the indicating patterns are 12mm wide. There are 6 indicating patterns in the same direction as the tire tread. When 3 or above of them come out from the groove, the tire shall be changed.

1. Indicator

3. Radial ply tire swing Swing means the front/rear part of the car swings from side to side, which is resulted from the out-of-straight steel belt of the tire. Such kind of swing will be obvious when the speed is at 8~48km/h. A road test may ascertain the faulty tires. If there is something wrong with the rear wheels, the rear part of the car will swing. Then the driver at the seat will feel that there is someone pushing the car from one side. If there is something wrong with the front wheels the swing will be even more obvious. Then the front panels will move forwards or backwards, and the driver will feel that the car is swinging. Swing can be diagnosed by wheel fault diagnosis equipment and can be quickly ascertained by the manufacturer‘s recommendations. If there is no wheel fault diagnosis equipment available, only the time-consuming methods can be adopted, that is, substitution with good tire/wheel assembly. 1) Ascertain whether the front part or the rear part is swinging. 2) Fit the good tire or wheel (of the same type of cars) to the car. If the swinging part is still impossible to ascertain, substitute the rear tires. 3) Make a road test again. If it gets better, then fit on an old tire till the swinging tire is found. If it still does not get better, replace the 4 old tires with the new ones. Then fit on one old tire by the same method as mentioned above to make check one by one. 4. Radial ply tire deviation ―Deviation‖ means that the car deviates from a straight course on a level road even the steering wheel is not turned. Generally, the causes for deviation are: ·Incorrect alignment of front wheel. ·Uneven brake adjustment ·Tire structure The way the tires are made may cause the care to deviate. This example involves the tire of belt. Belt eccentricity will produce a lateral force in the car to swing in on straight roads. If the diameter of the tire is larger at one side than the other side, the tire is liable to swing to one side, which will increase the lateral force of car deviation. The procedures in the following diagram shall be adopted (deviation fault diagnosis flow chart) to ensure the front wheels are correctly aligned and avoid tire deviation. 1) The deviation diagnosis procedure is different from the correction tire rotation diagram commonly shown in the user‘s manual and maintenance guide.

2) The rear tires will not cause deviation. Deviation fault diagnosis flow chart

Inflate the tire to the recommended pressure.

Make a bidirectional road test on flat roads.

Interchanged The tires shall the be tires interchanged from the leftfrom to the theright left before to the right before another roadanother test. road test.

Deviate in the same direction.

Change the tire if the interchange of tires improves the deviation

Re-install the tire and check tis alignment.

Deviate in the reverse direction.

Fit a good tire on the front wheel

Change the tires if the deviation is improved.

If the deviation still exists, fit a good tire to the other front wheel

Change the tires if the deviation is improved.

If the deviation still exists, the good tire is not a qualified product.

Ⅲ. Vibration fault diagnosis Most vibration problems of cars running on expressways result from wheel imbalance. If there is still vibration after dynamic balancing, the causes may be: ·Tire runout. ·Wheel runout ·Changes in tire rigidity. Measuring the runout of tires and wheels can only reveal partial problems, so the tire problem detector (TPD) must be used to check these three causes, for example, loading runout. If there is no tire problem detector available, the only way is to replace with new tire assembly, which is time-consuming.

Suspension action (loading runout)

Flat road Causes

Section Ⅰ Front wheel alignment Tire out of circularity

Deterioration of tire rigidity

Rim bending or out of circularity

Ⅰ. Composition

Top view front wheel toe-in

Positive camber

Alignment maintenance data: Toe-in (―B‖-―A‖):0～5mm

1. Forward 2. Center side of car body

Wheel side camber: 1°30′±30′, left and right difference ≤30′ Kingpin caster: 3°±30′, left and right difference≤30′ Kingpin inclination: 9°30′±30′, left and right difference≤30′ Notice:

3. Wheel central perpendicular 4. Camber

The front wheel toe-in value is measured by front wheel toe-in gauge. The front wheel alignment shall refer to the angular dependence between the front wheels, and between front wheel suspension accessories and the ground. Generally, the adjustment to front wheel alignment is only made to the wheel toe-in, not to the camber and kingpin inclination. Thus the camber and kingpins inclination have no technical requirements for adjustment to the damage caused by hazardous road condition or collision. Accordingly, it shall be sure whether the damage exists at the car body or suspension. If the car body is damaged, the car body shall be repaired, and if the suspension is damaged, the suspension shall be repaired. After repair and change, the front wheel alignment shall be also checked or rectified. 1. Setting of wheel toe-in Wheel toe-in is a type of wheel constraint which is used to avoid the motion trend of wheels at both sides rolling outwards due to wheel toe-out from causing the centerlines of the wheels at both sides to be not parallel. (As shown in the figure above) The technical requirement of wheel toe-in is to ensure the front wheels parallel motion (excess toe-in or toe-out may increase tire wear). The value of wheel toe-in can be obtained from ―B‖ minus ―A‖, with the units as mm. 2. Wheel camber The camber is the inclination between the front wheel and the perpendicular (seen from the front of the car). If the wheels incline outwards at the top, the inclination is positive, or is negative. The size of inclination is calculated by degree. 3. Pre-check before front wheel alignment adjustment Not all the steering and vibration faults result from the tire misalignment. Wear or unqualified tires are also impossible to give rise to lateral deviation, so that it is a must to add inspection items. ―Lead‖ is that the car deviates from the straight course when there is no manual force excised on the steering wheel. Before any work that may have impact on the adjustment of front wheel alignment, the following check and service shall be made to ensure the alignment sample value and alignment adjustment methods are correct.

1. Steering tie rod 2. Steering tie rod end 3. Steering tie rod clamp nut 4. Rack housing

1) Check if the inflation pressure of all the tires is suitable or if the tread wear are approximately equal. 2) Check if the ball head connections are loose. Check the tie rod end: if it gets loosened, rectify it before adjustment. 3) Check if the wheels and tires have radial runout. 4) Check the car‘s balance height: if it exceeds the limit, rectify it. This job must be well done before adjusting the toe-in. 5)Check if the swing war is loose. 6) Check if the stabilizer bar gets loosened or leaked. 7) Additional load must be taken into consideration, for example tool kit. If such sort of additional load is always carried in the car, leave it in the car when the alignment check is made. 8) Consideration shall be made to make sure whether the equipment used for check is in good condition, and they shall be operated based on the manufacturer‘s manual. 9) To do setting work, the car shall be laterally on a level surface from the front to the rear. 4. Toe-in adjustment Adjust the toe-in by changing the steering tie rod length. First, unscrew the clamp nuts at the ends of the right and left steering tie rods, and then turn the tie rod to the right and left (same torque). In adjusting, the length of the left and right tie rods shall be equal (see figure ―A‖). Before turning the steering tie rods, apply grease between the steering tie rod and rack housing to avoid the boot being distorted. After adjustment, tighten the clamp nuts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a)40~72 N·m 5. Adjustment of camber and kingpin caster If the camber and kingpin caster fail to meet the technical requirement, the reasons shall be first ascertained. If it is due to damage, looseness, bending, dents or suspension part wear, change them; if it is due to the care itself, repair it to meet the technical requirements. To avoid error in the measured value of camber and kingpin caster, move the front part of the car up and down several times before the check. 6. Steering angle In changing the steering tie rod or the steering tie rod end, Check the wheel toe-in first, and then use a steering radius analyzer to examine the steering angle. If the steering angle is not correct, check if the length ―A‖ of the left and right steering tie rods is equal. Notice: If the length of steering tie rods is changed to adjust the steering angle, the wheel toe-in shall be re-checked.

1. Steering radius analyzer 2. Steering tie rod 3. Steering tie rod end 4. Steering tie rod end nut

Inside of steering angle: 38±3° Outside:34±4°

Reference data: Wheel sideslip: Test the front sideslip by a wheel sideslip tester Wheel sideslip range:0~5m/Km If the wheel sideslip exceed the range, the wheel toe-in of the front wheel alignment may be not correct.

Ⅱ. Technical requirement of tightening torque Tightening torque Fastener N·m Clamp nut of tie-rod end

40~72

Section Ⅱ Rack and pinion Notice: All steering gear fasteners may have impacts on important fastening parts of key performance. If it is necessary to change parts, they shall be of the same piece number or the equivalent. Do not use the substitute parts of inferior quality or under the design requirement. Reassembly of them must use the specified torque to ensure that the parts can be well fixed.

Ⅰ. Composition The rack and pinion steering system consists of two major parts: rack and pinion. In turning the steering wheel, the power is transferred to the steering shaft, universal joint and then to the pinions. The pinions mesh with the racks

accordingly so that the power is further transferred to the racks to make motion in a straight line. Finally the power is transferred to the steering knuckle of the steering wheel through the steering tie rod.

Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis 1. Check on the steering wheel clearance Check the steering wheel clearance when driving a car forwards in a straight line. Steering steel clearance “a”: the free travel of steering wheel outer rim is within 0~30mm. If the steering wheel‘s clearance is beyond the specified technical scope, it shall be check according to the following procedures. If it is damaged, change it. • Whether the steering tie rod ball stud is worn (The ball stud, when is exercised on a 2kg·cm torque, shall move). • Whether the lower ball stud is worn. • Whether the steering shaft joints are worn. • Whether the pinion or racks are worn or broken. • Whether there are part getting loose.

Ⅲ. In-car maintenance 1. Lubrication The parts in the steering gear box, after removed, shall be cleaned up before reassembly. The following grease is recommended. Grease: super grease E (99000~25050) or lithium grease (suitable for -40℃~130℃)

1. Steering rack 2. Steering tie rod lock washer 3. Steering tie rod 4. Steering tie rod end 5. Boot 6. Steering pinion 7. Steering gear oil seal 8. Pinion bearing oil seal 9. O ring 10. Steering pinion side-entry piece 11. Rack shock pad screw 12. Rack plunger spring 13. Steering rack plunger 14. Steering rack housing and gear box assembly 15. Steering rack side-entry piece 16. Steering tie rod upper end lock nut 17. Rack boot snap ring 18. Wire

2. Steering gear box Disassembly 1) Unscrew the joint bolts on the steering lower shaft 2) Remove the steering shaft sealing members from the front panel, and then remove the lower joint of the steering lower shaft. 3) Jack up the car to remove the wheel. 4) Remove the steering tie rod end nuts. 5) Use a puller to take apart the steering tie rod end from the steering knuckle. 6) Remove the steering gear box

1. Steering gear box 2. Mounting bolt

1. Steering lower shaft 2. Upper joint bolt 3. Lower joint bolt 4. Steering shaft sealing member

1. Steering tie rod end 2. Joint 3. Puller

Check Steering rack boot Check every boot to make sure whether they are damaged. Damaged boots will allow dust and water enter, which may cause steering racks and pinions to suffer wear, rust, noise, and thus give rise to system operating troubles. Even if there is a tiny damage, they shall be replaced with the new one. A visual inspection shall be made to make sure whether the boot has damage or breakage when regular inspections are made at specified intervals or the car is jacked up for other reasons. Steering tie rod end boot Check every boot to make sure whether they are damaged. Even if there is a tiny damage, they shall be replaced with the new one.

Steering shaft joint Check if the steering shaft joint has wear, breakage and other damage. They shall be changed if there is any sign of damage.

Steering tie rod end joint ·Check if it moves about in the ball joint. ·Check if it moves about in ball joint at the rack end. If any one of the above fails to meet the requirement, it shall be changed. Assembly

1. Steering gear box 2. Mounting bolts

The reassembly shall be made in the reverse order of disassembly by the following according to the following instructions. After reassembly, refer to the relevant contents in Section Ⅱ of this chapter to check the wheel alignment. ·Tighten the gear box mounting bolts and nuts to the specified torque.

1. Steering lower shaft 2. Upper joint bolt 3. Lower joint bolt 4. Steering shaft sealing member

Tightening torque (a): 25±3N·m ·Fit the steering lower shaft on the pinion and tighten the lower joint bolts, and then tighten the joint bolts. Tightening torque (b): 25±3N·m ·Fit the steering shaft sealing members on the front panel. ·Fit the steering tie rod end to the steering knuckle, and then tighten the steering tie rod end nuts to the specified torque. Tightening torque 1. Steering tie rod end 2. Steering knuckle 3. Steering tie rod end nut 4. Steering tie rod end clamp nut

(c): 50±5N·m Notice: The clamp nuts removed from the steering tie rod end shall be not reused, and shall be replaced with new ones. ·Tighten the steering tie rod end clamp nuts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (d): 40~72N·m ·Tighten the wheel nuts to a specified torque. Tightening torque (e): 100±5N·m

·After the assembly, check the wheel alignment and wheel tie-in setting and change them as required. (see ―Front Wheel Alignment‖ in Section Ⅱ of this chapter.) Disassembly 1) Remove the steering gear box according to the ―Disassembly‖ methods in the ―Steering Gear Box‖ of the chapter. 2) To make appropriate adjustment after assembly, a mark shall be made on the steering/tie rod end clamp nut of the steering tie rod thread. 3) Unscrew the steering tie rod clamp nuts, and disconnect the steering tie rod end from the tie rod end clamp nuts. 4) Remove the boot wires and clamp.

1. Clamp nut 2. Steering tie rod 3. Steering tie rod end 4. Marking place

1. Clamp; 2. Clip 5) Remove the boot from the steering tie rod. 6) Remove the steering tie rod lock washer bending members, and then remove the steering tie rod from the rack.

1. Lock washer 2. Steering tie rod 3. Steering rack 7) Remove the parts as shown in the figure. 8) Remove the steering gear box cover. 9)Remove the bearing plug with a special tool. Special tool (43mm socket wrench) (A)：09944—26011

1. Rack shock pad screw 2. Rack plunger spring 3. Rack plunger 10) Tap the place as shown in the right figure with a plastic hammer so as to pull out the pinion assembly from the case. 11) Remove the pinion assembly. 12) Remove the rack from the gear box. The direction shown in the figure is the direction in which the rack is removed. Caution: The interior of the steering gear sleeve is treated with special coating. As it is a wearing part, please be careful not to damage it when remove the racks from the steering gear box. 13) Remove the oil seal with a special tool. Special tool:

1. Pinion assembly 2. Plastic hammer

(B): 09913-50121

1. Pinion bearing plug 2. Oil seal

1. Rack 2. Gear box

1. Rack shock pad screw 2. Rack plunger spring 3. Rack plunger

Check Rack plunger ·Check if the rack plunger is worn or damaged. ·Check if the rack plunger spring is deformed or damage. If any one of the above occurs, it shall be changed. Steering pinion ·Check if the tooth surface of the pinion is worn or damaged. ·Check if the oil seal is damaged. · Check if the gear box ―O‖ seal is damaged. Change the damaged parts. Steering pinion bearing Check the bearing rotation to make sure whether it is worn. If there is damage, change the gear box assembly. Steering rack Check if the rack has straightness deviation, wear or damage, and check if the back is worn or damaged.

1. Gear box oil seal 2. O ring 3. Steering pinion

Rack deviation range: 0.1 mm If the deviation goes beyond the range, change the rack. Caution: Do not use metal bush to clean it. Reassembly The reassembly shall be made in the reverse order of the disassembly, with attention paid to the following aspects:

1. Pinion bearing plunger.

1) Use a special tool to fit the pinion bearing oil seal to the pinion bearing plunger. Special tool (A): 09925-98210 2) Apply grease to the oil seal clamp. Grease:(99000-25050)(Suzuki super grease E) 3) Apply grease to the central tooth surface of the rack and around it. Grease: (99000-25050) (Suzuki super grease E)

1. Rack 2. Steering gear box

4) Slip the rack into the steering gear box in the direction as shown in the figure. Caution: The interior of the steering gear sleeve is treated with special coating. As it is a wearing part, please be careful not to damage it when fit the rack into the steering gear box. 5) Apply grease around the pinion teeth, and to the pinion bearing and gear box oil seal lip. “A”: grease (SUZUKI E(99000-25050))

SUPER

GREASE

6) Apply fastening adhesive to the pinion bearing plug thread. “B”: fastening adhesive(THREAD LOCK CEMENT 1401 99000-32040) 7) Install the pinion assembly and tighten the pinion bearing plug to the specified torque. Special tool (43mm wrench) (B): 09944-20011 Tightening torque of bearing plug: 95N·m 8) Apply a little lubricating oil to the plunger sliding part close to the rack.

1. Gear box oil seal 2. Pinion tooth 3. Fill the pinion bearing sleeve interior with grease 4. O ring 5. Pinion bearing plug 6. Pinion bearing

9) Fit on the parts as shown in the figure. 10) Apply sealant around the thread of the rack shock pad screws, and tighten them to the specified torque. “C”: sealant (SUZUKI BOND No. 1215 (99000-31110))(Suzuki adhesive) Tightening torque (a): 15N·m

1. Rack shock pad bolt 2. Rack plunger spring 3. Rack plunger

11) After tightening the rack shock pad screw to the specified torque as stipulated above, adjust it to incline backwards about 0°~9° and check the rotating torque of the pinion. If it fails to reach the specified valve below, adjust it to be within the specified torque range. Meanwhile, check if the rack can move smoothly within its range of movement. Special tool (C): 09944-18211 Rotating torque of pinion: 8-13N·m 12) Install the steering gear box cover 13) As shown in the figure, fit the new steering tie rod lock washer and steering tie rod to the rack, with the ―D‖ part of the washer aligned with ―E‖ of the rack platform. 14) Tighten the tie rod interior ball nut to the specified torque. Tightening torque (b): 85N·m

1. Torque wrench

15) As shown in the figure, bend the lock washer towards the steering tie rod.

1. Steering rack 2. Steering tie rod lock washer 3. Steering tie rod 4. Rack side

1. Steering rack case 2. Mounting member at rack side

16) Make sure the rack side is mounted in place as shown in the figure before a boot is fitted on the steering rack case.

“a”: 0.5～1.3mm

1. New wire 2. Rack side-mounted member 3. Snap spring 4. Steering tie rod

17) Apply grease to the parts at the side ―F‖ of the boot steering tie rod. Caution: Do not apply grease to the parts at the side “G” that contact the boot steering gear box. 18) Fit the boot correctly into the groove of the gear box and steering tie rod, and fasten it with new wires or clamps. The wire shall be new and wound twice. Both of its ends shall be twisted together and the twisted ends shall bend to the twisting direction. Then check to make sure the boot has not twisting and bending. 19) Fit the steering tie rod clamp nuts and steering tie rod end to the steering tie rod, and fit the clamp nuts on the marks made in disassembly.

1. Mark Notice: The length “b” of the original steering tie rod shall measure as a basis for changing for new steering tie rod when the steering tie rod is changed so as to set the clamp nuts appropriately.

Ⅳ. Servicing materials

Materials

Recommended Suzuki product

Use

·Sliding parts close to the steering gear case (apply grease to rack plunger, rack bushing and rack) Lithium grease (applicable to-40℃~130℃)

SUZUKI super grease (99000-25050)

·Sliding parts close to the steering pinion (apply grease to oil seal, needle bearing) ·Contact part of the steering rack and pinion teeth steering tie rods and rack

boot ·Rack end ball joints

Lock cement

Thread lock cement 140(99000-32040)

Sealant

SUZUKI adhesive No. 1215 (99000-31110)

·Pinion housing

The tread of rack shock pad screw

Ⅴ. Special tools

Oil seal puller

Bearing installer

Pinion torque testing bushing

Pinion bearing plug bushing (43mm)

Section 3 Steering wheel and steering column Ⅰ. Composition This set of tube type steering column has the following three important characteristics apart from the steering function. ·The steering column adopts an energy-absorbing design so that it can alleviate the front impact. ·This column is equipped with an ignition switch and security lock. ·As the steering column is furnished with a security lock, it can lock the ignition and steering wheel to prevent the car being stolen.

To ensure the function of energy absorbing, the key parts employ specified screws, bolts and nuts as required by the design, and they all shall be tightened to the specified torque. Be careful in removing the steering column assembly from the car. It is necessary to use the removers recommended in the manual and they shall not lean against the assembly. Do not impose violent impact on the steering shaft end, and do not let the assembly fall down, or it will cut off the shear lockpin that maintain the length of the steering column.

1. Steering wheel 2. Multi-function switch 3. Steering column upper cap 4. Steering column lower cap 5. Steering column assembly 6. Steering lower shaft

Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis See Section Ⅰ for the fault diagnosis of steering wheel and steering column Check and maintenance after accident In case of accident, it is bound to make check, test and repair based on ―Check on Fault and Damage of Steering Column‖ in this chapter.

Ⅲ. In-car maintenance 1. Steering wheel

1. Steering wheel top cover 2. Steering wheel shock absorber 3. Steering wheel bottom cover 4. Steering wheel

Disassembly 1) Remove the negative wire.

battery

2) Remove the steering wheel top cover. 3) Remove the steering wheel shock absorber. 4) Unscrew the steering shaft nut. 5) Disassemble the steering wheel with a special tool. Special tool (A): 09944-36011 Caution: Do not knock the shaft end. If so, the shear lockpin that maintain the length of the steering column will get loosened, and the particular shock-absorbing capacity of the steering column will be damaged as well.

1. Alignment mark

Installation 1) Fit the steering wheel to the steering column, with the marks aligned. 2) Tighten the steering shaft nut to the specified torque. Tightening torque of steering shaft nut: 75±5N·m 3) Fit on the shock absorber and top cover. 4) Connect the battery negative wire. 2. Multi-function switch, steering column and steering lower shaft Caution:：

1. Steering wheel 2. Multi-function switch 3. Steering column cap 4. Steering column 5. Steering lower shaft

The steering column, once removed from the car, will be liable to be damaged. If the steering column assembly sides off, its end will crack up the steering column or loosen the plastic shear lockpin that maintain the length of the steering column. Inclining against the assemble may cause it to be bent or deformed. Any damage of the above will affect the shock-absorbing capacity of the steering column. The steering column mounting bolts shall not be loose, and the steering lower shaft bolts shall be tightened up, or the bearing of steering shaft joint will be damaged. Notice: In maintaining the steering column or other parts fitted on the steering column, the steering wheel shall be first removed. But if the parts to be repaired can be touched only by unscrewing the steering column, the steering wheel shall be stay on the steering column. Disassembly 1) Turn the steering wheel to let the front wheels straight ahead. 2) Remove the battery negative wire. 3) If necessary, remove the steering wheel. See the section ―Steering Wheel‖ in this chapter. 4) Remove the upper and lower caps of the steering column. 5) Remove the plug connectors of the multi-function switch and ignition switch wiring harness 6) If necessary, remove the multi-function switch

1. Steering shaft top cover 2. Steering shaft bottom cover

1. Multi-function switch 2. Screw

1. Steering pinion shaft 2. Steering lower shaft 3. Steering lower shaft upper joint bolt 4. Steering lower shaft lower joint bolt 5. Steering column 6. Steering column mounting bolt

7) Unscrew the steering lower shaft joint bolts. 8) Unscrew the steering column mounting bolts and remove the steering column. 9) Remove the steering shaft seals from the front panel. 10) Unscrew the steering lower shaft‘s lower joint bolts and remove the steering shaft lower joints if necessary.

1. Steering lower shaft lower joint bolt 2. Steering lower shaft 3. Steering pinion shaft 4. Steering shaft seal

1. Steering column mounting bolt 2. Steering lower shaft upper joint bolt Assembly: 1) Make sure that the front wheels and steering wheel are traveling in a straight line. Insert the lower joints into the steering pinion shaft. 2) Tighten the lower joint bolts of the steering lower shaft to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 25±3N·m 3) Apply lubricating oil to the steering shaft seal ―A‖, and then fit the steering shaft seal to the front panel, as shown in the figure. 4)Align the flat part ―B‖ of the steering lower shaft with the steering column joint bolt hole ―C‖, as shown in the figure, and then insert the steering lower shaft into the steering column joint. 5) Tighten the steering column mounting bolt to the specified torque. Tightening torque (b): 25±3N·m 6) Tighten the steering lower shaft‘s upper joint bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (c): 25±3N·m

1. Steering column 2. Steering wheel security lock

7) If necessary, fit on the multi-function switch. 8) Connect the wire harness of the ignition switch and multi-function switch to the plug connector. 9) If necessary, fit on the top and bottom covers of the steering column.

10) If necessary, fit on the steering wheel. See the section ―Steering Wheel‖ in this chapter. 11) Connect the battery negative wire. 3. Steering wheel security lock (ignition switch) Disassembly 1) Remove the battery negative wire. 2) Remove the steering column. See the section ―Multi-function switch, steering column and steering lower shaft‖ in this chapter.

1. Center punch 2. Security lock mounting bolt

3) As shown in the figure, use a center punch to unscrew and remove the mounting bolts of the steering wheel security lock Notice: Be careful to use the center punch so as not to damage the aluminum parts of the steering wheel security lock. 4) Rotate the ignition key to ―ACC‖ or ―On‖, and remove the steering wheel security lock assembly from the steering column. 1. Steering column

2. Steering shaft

Assembly 1) Align the rectangular holes of steering shaft with the center of steering column inner holes. 2) Rotate the ignition key to ―ACC‖ or ―On‖, and fit the steering wheel security lock assembly to the steering column. 3) Rotate the ignition key further to ―LOCK‖ position, and pull it out. 4) Align the lock sleeve with the rectangular holes of the steering shaft, and then turn the shaft to lock the steering shaft. 5) Tighten the two new bolts till their heads fall off, as shown in the right figure. 6) Rotate the ignition key to ―ACC‖ or ―On‖, and check if the steering shaft can rotate smoothly. Then check the service conditions of the security lock. 7) Fit on the steering column. See the section ―Multi-function switch, steering column and steering lower shaft‖ in this chapter. 8) Connect the battery negative wire. 4. Check the safety equipment of steering column after accident Notice: In case of car accident, the car body may be damaged; once the

1. Packaging clip

steering column is impacted, it will be damaged or misaligned. Check order 1) Check if the two packaging clips are fixed on the steering column support. Check the clearance between the packaging clip and the steering column support, as shown in the figure. Check if the clearance ―a‖ at both sides has cracks, looseness. If there is damage, change it. 2) Measure ―b‖, as shown in the figure. If it is shorter than the specified length, replace it with a new steering column. Length ―b‖: 449.5±1mm 3) Check if the steering shaft joints and shaft are damaged, for example cracks, rupture, malfunction or large clearance, and etc. 4) Check if the steering shaft can rotate smoothly. If there is damage, change the steering column assembly. 5) Check if the steering shaft or steering column are bent, cracked or damaged. If there is damage, change the steering column assembly.

Ⅳ. Servicing materials Materials

Recommended Suzuki product

Use

Lithium lubricating oil

Grad A grease (99000-25010)

Steering shaft seal

Ⅴ. Special tool

Steering wheel remover

Chapter ⅥBraking system Section Ⅰ System composition and operating principle When the brake pedal is pressed down, the master cylinder will produce a hydraulic pressure inside, which impels the wheel braking cylinder pistons (two at front and rear respectively) to act. The master cylinder is a series dual-chamber master cylinder, with the brake pipe connected with the master cylinder. It has two independent circuits, one connecting the front brake (left and right), and the other connecting the rear brake (left and right). The brake proportioning valve (BP valve) or load sensing proportioning valve is located in the circuits between the master cylinder and the rear wheel. In the braking system of this sort, the disc brake is used for the front wheel braking, and the drum brake is used for the rear wheel braking. The parking braking system, which is mechanical, exercise braking force on rear wheels alone by cable and mechanical link. The parking brake and service brake use the same brake shoe.

Direction of advance

1. Booster 2. Brake master cylinder 3. Four-way 1 4. Four-way 2 5. load sensing valve 6. Front wheel disc brake 7. Rear wheel drum brake 8. Hand brake lever 9. Hydraulic braking pipe 10. Hand brake cable Braking system schematic diagram

Ⅰ. Booster assembly The booster sits between the master cylinder and the brake pedal. The advantage of such design is that the engine vacuum negative pressure can be made use of to increase mechanical braking force as the brake pedal is pressed down. Caution: When and after the booster is removed, never let it fall off or deform ever. Warning: Never take apart the brake booster assembly. If it is found to have fault, replace with a new booster assembly. Caution:

Tighten the fasteners not lubricated to the specified torque. The brake fluid shall be discharged first when any hydraulic element is removed or the brake pipe is disconnected. Operating principle When the brake pedal is pressed down, the brake force is transferred to the master cylinder piston through the valve lever, booster air valve, reaction disc and piston rod. Meanwhile, the pressure difference between the piston chambers ―A‖ and ―B‖ (see the figure below) acts on the booster piston to generate boosts. Therefore, a little force on the brake pedal will form a strong thrust to the master cylinder rod, and thus produce a high hydraulic pressure. Any part relating to the vacuum in the booster once breaks down, the brake force will not increase any more. However, the brake force generated from pressing down the brake pedal can be still transferred to the valve lever, booster air valve, valve stop pin and booster piston, and thus impelling the master cylinder rod. Accordingly, the booster itself will not encounter failure.

Ⅱ. Master cylinder assembly

A: Brake pedal B: Master cylinder 1. Booster 1 2. Booster 2 3. Valve lever 4. Air filter element 5. Air filter separator 6. Air valve return spring 7. Air valve return spring 8. Control valve spring space 9. Control valve spring 10. Booster control valve 11. Booster air valve 12. Booster piston 13. Valve stop 14. Booster diaphragm 15. Reaction disc 16. Booster piston return spring 17. Booster piston rod 18. Booster rod adjusting screw

The master cylinder has two pistons and three piston cups. The hydraulic pressure is generated in the first piston chamber (―a‖ in the figure below) and the second piston chamber (―b‖). The hydraulic pressure generated in the first piston chamber (―a‖) acts on the rear wheel brake (front wheel brake for the cars equipped with anti-lock braking system). Similarly, the hydraulic pressure generated in the second piston chamber (―b‖) acts on the front wheel brake (rear wheel brake for the cars equipped with anti-lock braking system). Notice: To repair the master cylinder, the original spare parts in the service kit shall be used. New rubber articles lubricated with clean brake fluid shall be employed to make the assembly easy. The compressed air with oil shall be not used to blow the braking components, for it will damage the rubber articles. If it is necessary to remove the hydraulic components or disconnect the brake pipe, the brake fluid shall be discharged first. The dry fasteners that have no lubrication shall be tightened to the specified torque.

1. Piston stop snap ring 2. Piston stop 3. Cylinder head 4. Plate 5. The first piston 6. Piston cup 7. Piston 1 return spring 8. Piston 1 spring space 9. Piston 2 pressure cup 10. Piston 2 11. Return spring seat 12. Piston 2 return spring 13. Piston 2 stop bolt 14. Master cylinder block ―A‖ piston 1 ―B‖ piston 2

Ⅲ. Load sensing proportioning valve

As shown in the figure below, the load sensing proportioning valve (LSPV) is located in the brake circuit connecting the master cylinder and the rear wheel brake. It can control the hydraulic pressure supplied to the rear wheel brake according to the load on the car (or load weight) to prevent the rear wheel locking too early, and it can release the high hydraulic pressure supplied to the rear wheel brake as well. If there are troubles in the front wheel brake hydraulic circuit, the hydraulic pressure generated in the master cylinder will be directly supplied to the rear wheel brake to carry out rear wheel brake control. Caution: Never take apart the load sensing proportioning valve, or the original functions will be impaired. If it has failures, replace it with a new one.

1. LSPV spring holder (connected to the rear axle housing) 2. LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve) assembly 3. Connected to the master cylinder 4. To the rear wheel brake

Load sensing valve assembly Structure LSPV component is mainly composed of: ―A‖: sensor part The sensor part is mainly composed of lever and spring. The spring can, when impacted by load, sense the car‘s

changes in height, and can convert the changes into load signals. ―B‖: hydraulic pressure control part The hydraulic pressure control part is mainly composed of plunger and valve system that exercises proportioning control. ―C‖: fail-safe part The fail-safe part is mainly composed of piston chamber and fail-safe piston. The piston chamber sucks hydraulic pressure through the front wheel brake. The fail-safe piston will release valve system pressure when the front wheel braking system brakes down. This system is connected with the rear wheel brake.

1. Plunger 2. LSPV lever 3. Sensor spring 4. From the master cylinder Piston chamber 1 Front wheel brake 5. To the rear wheel brake 6. From the master cylinder Piston chamber 2 Rear wheel brake 7. Bleeder plug

Ⅳ. Front wheel disc brake The disc brake caliper has only one single piston cylinder. The hydraulic pressure generated by applying force to the brake pedal is transferred through the caliper to the shoes to produce friction. The hydraulic pressure acts evenly on the piston and caliper cylinder bottom to move the piston outwards, and the caliper inwards (slide) to clamp the brake disc. The clamping action forces the brake pad (friction facing) to exercise a pressure on the brake disc to produce friction, and thus to stop the car. Notice: Components shall be lubricated as stipulated. Do not use compressed air with oil to blow the brake parts, for it will damage the rubber elements. The brake fluid shall be first discharged when it is necessary to remove the parts or the pipes. The dry fasteners that need no lubrication shall be tightened to the specified torque.

1. Brake caliper spacer 2. Boot 3. Caliper 4. Disc brake piston 5. Piston seal 6. Cylinder bushing 7. Brake pad 8. Bleeder plug 9. Bleeder plug lid 10. Block (gasket) 11. Boot retaining ring

Ⅴ. Rear drum brake assembly The drum brake is structured as shown in the figure below. Drum brake assembly has a device which can automatically adjust the brake shoe clearance, so that it can always keep a suitable clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe. Notice: To repair this type of drum brake, the whole set of parts in the service kit shall be used. The parts shall be lubricated as required. Warning: The brake fluid shall be discharged first when any hydraulic element is removed or the brake pipe is disconnected. The dry fasteners that need no lubricating shall be tightened to the specified torque. When the brake pedal is press down, the piston impels the brake shoes to move towards the brake drum. When the pedal effort increases, the brake shoes continue moving close to the brake drum. When the brake shoes press the brake drum, the brake force is produced. The migration length of tie rod arm is consistent with the wear. As the tie rod arm moves, the sector ratchet moves, too, for they are assembled together. Until the clearance between the brake shoes and the brake drum is larger than the migration length, the tie rod arm and ratchet are moved in place and stay where they are. In this way, the clearance between the brake shoes and brake drum will be automatically adjusted to be consistent at every time when the brake pedal is pressed.。

1. Brake bottom plate 2. Brake shoe 3. Parking brake rod 4. Brake anchor plate 5. Segmented spring

6. Shoe return spring 7. Shock absorbing spring 8. Brake shoe pressure spring 9. Shoe pressure pin 10. Parking tie rod arm spacer

11. Wheel cylinder 12. Bleeder plug lid 13. Rubber stopper

Ⅵ. Parking braking system The car employs mechanical parking braking system, whose control and driving devices are mainly composed of machine parts such as lever, rod and cable. The schematic diagram of the mechanical parking braking system of this car is as follows. The parking braking system must ensure that the car can park where it is and will never slide in any case.

1. Parking brake handle 2. Parking control mechanism assembly 3. Cable 1 4. Cable spring 1 5. Cable 2 (right) 6. Cable 2 (left) 7. Rear wheel Mechanical parking braking system

Section Ⅱ Fault diagnosis Ⅰ. Check on brake fluid Brake fluid leakage Give a check to the brake fluid level of the master cylinder. If the level of fluid reservoir drops a little, it is caused by normal pad wear. If there is abnormal drop in the fluid level, it means that the system has a leakage. Even if the leakage sign is slight, the damaged part shall be repaired or changed timely. Unacceptable or polluted brake fluid Unsuitable brake fluid and content of mineral oil or water in the brake fluid will cause the brake fluid to boil to form bubbles or the rubber elements in the hydraulic system to be damaged. If the first piston cup swells, it means the rubber element is damaged, which will also cause the wheel brake pump piston cup of the drum brake to swell. If the rubber elements are damaged, all hydraulic elements shall be removed and cleaned with ethanol (for instance alcohol). Before assembly, these elements shall be blown dry by compressed air so as to leave no ethanol in the system. All rubber elements are changed in the system, including hoses. When the braking device is working, a check shall be given to the friction facing to make sure whether it has brake fluid. If there is excess brake fluid found, the brake pad shall be changed. If the piston seal ring of the master cylinder has no problem, check if there is leakage or overheat. If there is no leakage or overheat found, discharge the brake fluid, and clean it with the brake fluid, and finally refill the brake fluid and exhaust the air in the system. If you have a doubt about the grade of the brake fluid used for the system, or a polluted brake fluid is used, the system must be rinsed with a brake fluid that meets requirements.

Ⅱ. Brake road test Tests on brakes shall be carried out on dry, clean and plat roads, not the rugged roads. In carrying out the brake road test, the brake pedal shall be pressed gently or heavily at different speeds according to brake uses to check if the car can stop quickly or effectively. Another check shall be made to make sure whether the car pulls to one side when the brake is not applied. If yes, check the tire pressure and make sure whether the front wheel alignment is proper and whether the front suspension connecting pieces are loose. See the fault diagnosis table for other reasons.

Ⅲ. Braking system fault diagnosis table Notice: ﹒All the fasteners of the brake connecting pieces are of great importance, for they will affect the performance of major parts and systems and increase the maintenance cost. If they are necessary to change, they shall not be replaced by inferior product or substitute. When they are reassembled, all the parts shall be tightened to the specified torque instead of welding, which may cause the metal to be extensively damaged or

softened.

Troubles

Causes ·The brake pipe leaks oil.

Ascertain where oil leaks and repair it

·The brake disc or brake pad (block) is contaminated by oil.

Clean or change

·The brake is overheated. ·The contact of the brake drum and brake shoe is poor. ·The brake shoe friction facing has oil stain or water. Inadequate brake force

Troubleshooting

Find out the causes and repair it Repair it to let them contact correctly Change Change Repair or change

·The brake pad (block) gasket is worn.

Repair or change

·The wheel cylinder is damaged.

Check or adjust

·The brake caliper assembly breaks down.

Exhaust

·(If equipped) LSPV sensor spring length is improperly adjusted.

Change

·There is air in the system. ·LSPV sensor spring is damaged. ·LSPV collar is damage (if equipped) ·Anti-lock braking system (ABS) has failures (if equipped)

Change See other relevant materials, for it is not covered in this manual.

Change ·The brake pad (block) friction facing or brake shoe friction facing has water or oil stain. ·The clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe is subject to maladjustment (failure of automatic adjusting mechanism). ·The brake disc and/or brake drum of the brake is out of circularity.

Uneven brake (the brake fails to work in harmony)

Repair or change

·The wheel brake pump breaks down.

Fit tires of the same tread to the same shaft

·The front wheel is misaligned.

·The brake caliper assembly goes wrong.

·The suspension elements get loose.

The brake locks (cars equipped with ABS)

Inflate evenly

Adjust as required.

·The fluid in the brake oil pipe or hose fails to flow smoothly.

The rear brake locks too early (for cars equipped with LSPV)

Change

·The wheel pressure is not uniform.

·The tires of the axles are unmatched.

Noise (there is squeak when the brake is not applied)

Check the ineffective automatic adjusting mechanism.

Check if the hose is softened and if the oil pipe is damaged; replace with the new hose and new double wall brake steel tube Check if the piston is jammed or act slowly. The caliper‘s sliding bushing shall be properly lubricated. The caliper shall slide. Check all the suspension mounting members.

·The caliper is loosened.

Check and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

·The front brake friction facing is worn.

Change the friction facing

·LSPV sensor spring length is improperly adjusted.

Check or adjust

·LSPV assembly goes wrong.

·ABS system goes wrong. (ABS-Anti-lock Braking System)

Change the assembly

See other relevant materials, for it is not covered in this manual.

·The braking partially.

system

breaks

down

· the brake fluid in the master cylinder‘s reservoir is inadequate.

Check the braking system, and repair it if necessary. Fill acceptable brake fluid Check if the braking system has leakage or air. Check the warning light, and exhaust the system if necessary.

Too great pedal travel

·here is air in the braking system (the pedal is so weak like pressing a sponge) ·The rear braking system cannot be adjusted (automatic adjusting mechanism failure) ·The brake shoe is bent. ·The rear brake shoe is worn.

Exhaust

Repair the mechanism

automatic

adjusting

Adjust the rear brake Change the brake shoe Change the brake shoe

· The master cylinder piston cannot return correctly. ·The brake oil pipe hose is clogged that the flow diminishes.

Repair the master cylinder Check if the hose is softened and if the oil pipe is damaged; replace with the new hose and new double wall brake steel tube

Brake return is hindered (when the pedal is released, the brake cannot return timely)

·The parking brake of the rear brake is improperly adjusted. ·The return spring in the brake cannot return or is damaged. ·The parking brake cable or rod reacts slowly.

Check and adjust according to technical requirements Change Repair or change Repair if necessary

·The wheel brake pump or caliper piston is jammed. ·The piston seal in the caliper is severely worn.

Change the piston seal

Pedal pulsation (the pedal pulsates when pressed down)

·The wheel bearing is damaged or loosened.

Change the wheel bearing

·The steering knuckle or rear wheel axle is deformed.

Change the steering knuckle and rear wheel axle

·The radial runout of brake disc is too great.

Follow the instructions to make checks. Change or fit brake disc if it fails to meet the technical requirements.

·The parallelism fails to comply with the technical requirement.

·The rear brake drum is out of out of circularity.

follow the instructions to make checks. Change or fit brake disc if it fails to meet the technical requirements. Check the radial runout, and repair or change the brake drum if necessary.

·The brake shoe is rubbed to be shiny or stained with impurities.

Repair or change

·The brake shoe is worn or deformed.

Change

·The front wheel bearing gets loose.

Change

·The bottom plate or mounting bolt gets loose.

change or tighten the fixed bolts

Brake noise

·The parking brake is not released. The brake warning light is on after the engine starts.

The brake warning light is on when the brake is applied. The brake warning light cannot be on when parking brake is applied.

·The brake fluid is inadequate. ·The brake pipe leaks fluid. The brake warning light circuit is out of order.

·The brake pipe leaks fluid. ·The brake fluid is inadequate.

·The brake warning light circuit is out of order.

Release the parking brake, and check and turn off the brake warning light. Fill brake fluid Check the leaking position and repair it, and then refill brake fluid Repair

Check the leaking position and repair it, and then refill brake fluid

Change the bulb or repair the circuit

Section Ⅲ Check and adjustment 1. Adjustment of brake pedal free height Check the brake pedal free height ―a‖. if the free height fails to meet the technical requirements, check and adjust it according to its 1) and 2). 1) Check the distance from the booster mounting surface to the U pin hole center. In reassembling the tie rod U pin, pay attention to adjusting the distance. Length “b”: 99.5~100.5mm Tightening torque (a): 25N·m

1. Tie rod U pin

2) Check the position of the stop light switch. If it fails to comply with the technical requirements, please adjust it. 2. Adjustment of stop light switch Fitting on switches shall make adjustment according to the following requirements: pull up the brake pedal to yourself to adjust the switch position so as to enable the clearance between the thread end and the brake pedal to comply with the technical requirement; then tighten the lock nuts to the specified torque. Clearance “a”: 1.5~2.0mm Tightening torque (a): 7.5N·m 3. Check on pedal travel 1) Starting engine 2) Press down the brake pedal several times. 3) Press down the brake pedal with a force no more than 400N to measure the clearance ―a‖ between the brake pedal and the front panel inner wall. Clearance “a”: more than 155mm 4) If the clearance ―a‖ is less than the specified size, it may be caused by rear

brake shoe wear or existence of air in the pipe. If the clearance ―a‖ is always less than the specified size, and remains so even if the brake shoe is replaced and the system is exhausted, it may be such case that the rear brake shoe adjuster breaks down or the booster rod length is improperly adjusted. But this possibility is somehow little. Refer to the section of brake exhaust to exhaust the system. In checking the adjuster, the brake drum shall be removed (refer to brake drum check). If it is damaged, repair or change it. 4. Check on front brake disc As for the check points and check method of the front brake disc, see ―Check on Brake Pad‖ in this chapter. Check on front brake pad lining Whenever the tire is removed (tire rotation or other reasons), the brake lining shall be periodically checked according to the maintenance schedule. Check the lining thickness inside and outside the brake pad through the caliper end (or hole). If the lining is worn, the thickness (―d‖ in the figure‖ will be less than specified value, all the brake pads shall be change. Thickness “d” Limit size: 1.0mm 5. Check on rear brake shoe Thickness “e”

1. Backing ring 2. Brake disc 3. Lining

Limit size: 1.0mm The check on this item shall follow the check on brake pedal travel. Even if the pedal travel is normal, the check shall be made according to the following requirements. The check on the brake shoe wear is as follows: 1) Jack up the car. 2) Remove the rubber stopper from the brake bottom plate. 3) Observe the brake shoe lining‘s thickness visually through the bottom plate holes. If the lining thickness ―e‖ is less than the limit size, change all the brake shoes at the same time. 1. Rubber stopper 2. Brake lining 3. Brake shoe backing ring

6. Check on brake pedal clearance The pedal clearance shall be within the following technical range, or a check shall be given to the stop light switch to make sure whether its mounting position is suitable. If necessary, adjust it. Checks shall also be made to pedal shaft bolts and the tightness of master cylinder pins. They shall, if damaged, be changed. Pedal clearance “f”: 1~8mm 7. Master cylinder check Check if the master cylinder casting has cracks or whether there is brake fluid around the master cylinder. If there is a little liquid drops, it means there is a leakage. Moisture regain is also abnormal. 8. Adjustment of rear drum brake shoe The rear brake is equipped with an auto mechanical adjusting device. But after the brake shoes have been changed or the brake drum has been removed to make other maintenance, it is necessary to adjust the clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe. When all the parts are assembled, the adjustment shall be carried out by pressing the pedal 3-5 times with a force of about 400N after the engine is started. Then check if the brake drum is jammed and whether the braking system has good performance. And finally let down the car to conduct brake tests. 9. Check and adjustment of parking brake Check Hold the parking brake lever and pull it up with a force of 25kg. Pull up the parking brake lever as required above (see the figure), and count the number of teeth of the ratchet at ―A‖. The number of the ratchet teeth is 5~8. It is still necessary to check if the left and right rear wheels are locked. Another method of counting the number of teeth is to pull up the parking brake instead of pressing the button on the lever to listen to the click of the ratchet. A click means a tooth. If the number of teeth fails to meet the technical requirements, refer to the following step b) to adjust the cable to gain the specified parking braking distance. Notice: Check if the tip of every tooth is worn or damaged. If yes, change the parking brake lever. Adjustment

1. Parking brake lever 2. Brake cable 3. Nut

Notice: Ensure the following conditions before the cable is adjusted: ·There shall be no residual air in the braking system. ·The brake pedal travel shall be appropriate. ·Press the brake pedal several times with a force of about 400N. ·Pull up the parking brake lever several times with a force about 25kg. ·The wear of the rear brake shoe shall not go beyond the limit. Provided the five conditions above are met, adjust the parking brake lever travel by unscrewing or screwing the parking brake nuts (right figure). Tightening torque (a): 20N·m (b): 11N·m Notice: Check if the brake drum is jammed after the adjustment. Parking brake lever travel: Pull up the parking brake lever with a force of 20kg; it has 4~7 teeth. 10. Rinse of brake hydraulic system It is recommended that the whole hydraulic system shall be thoroughly rinsed with clean brake fluid when new elements are installed in it. It is recommended to change the brake fluid periodically. 11. Brake air exhaust Caution: The brake fluid is very harmful to the paint, so that it shall be wiped up immediately when the brake fluid accidentally touches the lacquered surface. As soon as the air enters the hydraulic system, it shall be exhausted from the brake fluid. The hydraulic tube of the braking system is composed of two independent pipelines, one connected to the front wheel brake, and the other one connected to the rear wheel brake. When one brake tube or hose is removed from the wheel, a discharge must be given to the two ends of the removed pipeline or hose. When a joint element between the master cylinder and the brakes (wheels) is removed, the hydraulic system must give a discharge to the left and right brake calipers, left and right wheel cylinders of the rear wheel and LSPV (if equipped).

1. Plunger 2.Vinyl resins 3. Vessel

1. Master cylinder 4. LSPV 2. 4-way connector 1 5. Front wheel brake 3. 4-way connector 2 6. Rear wheel brake 1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. The reservoir shall have at least half of the brake fluid when the air is exhausted. 2) Remove the drain plug cover. Insert the vinyl resins into the drain plug, with the other end into the vessel.

Press the brake pedal several times Unscrew the drain plug when it pressed

3) Press the brake pedal several times, and then unscrew the drain plug about 1/3 turn to 1/2 turn when it is pressed. 4) When the hydraulic pressure is almost released, screw the drain plug. 5) Repeat the operation till there are no bubbles puffing out from the hydraulic tube. 6) If there are no bubbles puffing out, press down the brake pedal to screw up the drain plug. Tightening torque (b): 8N·m for rear brake, and LSPV 11N·m for front brake 7) Close the drain plug cover. 8) Once the air exhaust is finished, apply hydraulic pressure to the pipeline to check if there is leakage. 9) Refill the reservoir with brake fluid to the specified level. 10) Check if the pedal is pressed like a ―sponge‖. If it is weak, please repeat the step of air exhaust.

Press the brake pedal Screw the drain plug again

12. Brake hose and oil pipe Check if the brake hose assembly has damage, cracks and external wear or leakage. If necessary, make the thorough check with the help of light and minor. If there is faults as mentioned above, change the brake hose. Check if the oil pipe has damage, cracks, bending and corrosion. If has, change it. 13. Check on brake fluid level The car must use the brake fluid marked on the reservoir or recommend in the manual. Any other brake fluid is prohibited to use. The brake fluid level shall be between the minimum level and the maximum level marked in the reservoir. When the warning light turns on, fill brake fluid to the maximum level. When the brake fluid declines rapidly, a check shall be made to make sure whether the system has a leakage. If there is, repair it and refill the brake fluid to the specified level. Caution:

1. Maximum level 2. Minimum level

Do not use shock absorber fluid or other fluid with mineral oil; do not use damp vessels or the vessels that have held mineral oil. Mineral oil will cause the rubber elements in the hydraulic braking system to swell or deform. Moisture in the brake fluid will lower the boiling point of the brake fluid. All the brake fluid vessels shall be covered to prevent from pollution.

14. Check on booster‟s service conditions The methods of check on booster‘s service are divided into two classes: use of testing equipment and no use of testing equipment. If no testing equipment is made use of, it can only check the booster‘s service approximately. Notice: Check if there is air in the hydraulic pipes. Check the gas seal 1) Start the engine. 2) Stop the engine after it runs 1-2 minutes. 3) Press the brake pedal continuously several times with the same common braking force and observe the pedal travel. If the pedal sinks deeply at the first time, and its travel diminishes at the second and third time, it means the airtight seal is formed. 4) If the pedal travel remains the same, it means the gas seal is not formed.

Notice: If the check finds out damage in the vacuum tubes and seals, the damaged members shall be changed. Repeat the test after all operation.

The third time Gas seal not formed

Good gas seal The first, second and third time

The second time The first time

Check on service conditions 1) When the engine stops, press the brake pedal several times intermittently with the same force to confirm that the pedal travel does not change. 2) While starting the engine, press the brake pedal with the same force (as the pedal effort mentioned in 1)). If the pedal travel increases slightly, it means the operation is good, but if the pedal travel has no changes, it means there is a failure.

Check on gas seal under loads 1) While the engine is running, press down the brake pedal and then stop the engine, leaving the brake pedal pressed down. 2) Let the brake pedal keep pressed for 30s. If the pedal height has no changes, it means it is in good condition; if the pedal rises, it means a failure.

30s

Keep pressed

Keep pressed for 30s

15. Hydraulic test ( if equipped with LSPV (load sensing proportioning load) The test procedure of LSPV assembly is as follows: The following requirements shall be met before the test: ·Fill the fuel tank ·The car is equipped with spare tire, tools, jack and jack handle. 1) Park the car as shown in the figure, putting the weight slowly on the center of the rear axle housing to let the rear axle carry a load of up to 660kg. 2) Fit the pressure gauges to the front and rear brakes. Notice: The pressure gauge shall be connected to the left exhaust plugs of the front and rear brakes. 1. Weight

Special tool Front brake (A): 3509110-01 Rear brake (A): 3509110-01 (B): 3509120-01(hydraulic pressure gauge accessories) (C): 3509130-01(exhaust plug of spare parts (10mm) Notice:

The thread attachment of the special tool (B) can be substituted by that (10mm diameter) of the special tool (A). Thus it is possible to remove the attachment from the special tool (A) to fit to the special tool (B). 3) Slowly press down the brake pedal till the hydraulic pressure of the front brake reach the pressure range listed in the table below. Then check if the hydraulic pressure of the rear brake falls into the range specified as below.

Front brake pressure

Rear brake pressure

8000kPa

4200-5600kPa

Provided the requirements above are met, exercise a 10,000kPa pressure to the front brake and then check if the rear brake pressure is within the specified range as below.

Front brake ―P1‖

Rear brake ―P2‖

10000kPa

4800-6200kPa

4) If the rear brake pressure is beyond the specified range, adjust it by changing the tightening position of the bolt (a) according to the following method. ·If the rear brake pressure is higher than the specified technical requirement, screw the bolt (a) downwards; if lower than the specified requirement, screw the bolt (a) upwards. ·Repeat the procedures 3) and 4) until the rear brake pressure complies with the technical requirements. ·Tighten the nuts to the specified torque after the adjustment.

1. LSPV rod 3. LSPV stay 2. LSPV spring

Tightening torque (a): 23N·m 5) Disconnect the brake pipe on the master cylinder to the front wheel brake (connecting pipe between the master cylinder and the four-way box)

Special too (A): 3509140-01

1. Master cylinder

Screw the bolts (special tool)to the master cylinder, as shown in the figure. In pressing down the brake pedal, if the pressure to the front wheel brake is 10,000kPa and is 9,500-10,000kPa to the rear brake, it means the fail-safe system is good in performance. Front brake 10000kPa

Rear brake 9500~10000kPa

100kg/cm2

95~100kg/cm2

1422psi

1350~1422psi

6) After the hydraulic test finishes, exhaust the braking system to carry out brake tests.

Section Ⅳ In-car maintenance 1. Front brake hose/pipe 1) The car shall be jacked up and supported properly to remove the tires and wheels. This is not necessary when the

pipe connecting the master cylinder and the proportioning valves is removed. 2) Dirt and impurities in the hoses and end mounting pieces shall be eliminated so as to remove the brake hose or pipe. 3) The brake hose shall be assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly. In installing, make sure the steering wheel is in the proper position and the hose is not twisted. Check to make sure that the hose will not contact any suspension element in turning left and right. If it does contact them, remove it to rectify. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to the specified level, and then exhaust the braking system. 4) Carry out brake test to check if the mounting pieces have leakage. 1. Parallel four-way 2. Brake proportioning valve (BP valve) 3. Four-way box 4. Dual pipe clip 7. From master cylinder (first) to parallel four-way. 8. From master cylinder (second) to parallel four-way. 11. To front brake (right) 12. To front brake (left) 13. To rear brake or LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve) 14. From four-way box to LSPV Tightening torque (a)16N·m (b)llN·m (c)10N·m 2. Rear brake hose/pipe 1) The car shall be jacked up and supported properly to remove the tires and wheels. 2) Dirt and impurities in the hoses and end mounting pieces shall be eliminated so as to remove the brake hose or pipe.

3) The brake hose shall be assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to the specified level, and then exhaust the braking system. 4) Carry out brake test to check if the mounting pieces have leakage. Notice of installation: ·The removed protector nuts shall not be reused, and shall be replaced with new ones. ·The clip shall be fixed on the proper position as shown in the right figure. Screw up the bolts. ·Make sure the hoses are not twisted when they are installed. 1. Hose 2. E-shaped clip 3. LSPV(load sensing proportioning valve) 4. LSPV bolt 5. Dual pipe clip 6. Tapping screw 7. Wheel (right)

cylinder

8. Wheel (left)

cylinder

10. From the master cylinder (first) 11. From the master cylinder (second) 12. To wheel brake cylinder 13. Exhaust switch plug 14. Rear axle 15. Upside 16. Front side 17. Left side Tightening torque (a): 16N·m (b): 8N·m (c): 23N·m (d): 11N·m

1. Parking brake cable 2. Parking brake lock nut 3. Parking brake adjusting nut 4. Brake parking lever bolt 5. Brake parking lever assembly 6. Center member

3. Brake parking lever Disassembly 1) Remove the control box 2) Disconnect parking brake switch wire to unplug the plug connector. Notice: Do not remove the brake parking lever switch. The switch assembly shall be removed and fitted on simultaneously. 3) Remove the parking brake cable nuts. 4) Remove the brake parking lever bolts Assembly 1) The assembly shall be made in the reverse order of the disassembly procedures from 2) to 4).

1. Parking brake shoe rod 2. Parking brake cable

Tightening torque (a): 20 N·m 2) Adjust the brake parking lever, with reference to the check and adjustment of parking brake in this chapter. 3) Check if the rear brake is jammed and if the braking system is good in performance. 4) Fit on the control box. 4.

Parking brake cable

Disassembly 1) Remove the cable from the brake parking lever (see the brake parking lever disassembly procedures 1)~3) in this chapter). 2) Remove the brake drum (see the brake drum disassembly procedures 1)~5) in the chapter). 3) Separate the parking brake cable from the brake shoe rod (see the brake shoe disassembly procedure 2)~4) in the chapter). 4) Remove the brake cable from the brake bottom plate (see the brake bottom plate disassembly procedure 4)). Notice: If it is necessary to remove the left/right parking brake cable, repeat the steps 2)~4) for the left/ right wheel. 5) Remove the cable from the car body.

B-1: Clip B-2: Stud bolt insert direction B-3: Cable A-1: Brake parking lever A-2: Brake parking lever bolt A-3: Cable lock nut A-4: Cable not disconnected, reed bent A-5: Cable locating ring (cable is inserted

D-1: Balancer

into the center member till the cable locating ring is installed in place.

F-1: Parking brake shoe rod F-2: threaded end F-3: Guide

1. Center member 2. #1 parking brake cable (right) 3. #2 parking brake cable (right) 4. #2 parking brake cable (left) 5. Cross piece ―a‖ angle: within 20◦

C-1: Cable end cap

Distance ―b‖: 20-30mm

E-1: Clip

Tightening torque (a): 20N﹒m (b) 11N﹒m

Assembly 1) Apply waterproof sealant ―A‖ along the cable to the point marked as shown in the figure and connect the cable with the bottom plate by clips. Sealant “A”: 6100997-01 2) Connect the cable and the brake shoe rod, and fit the brake shoe on the brake bottom plate (see the brake shoe assembly procedure 1)~2) in the chapter).

1. Brake bottom plate 2. Cable 3. Clip

3) Fit on the brake drum (see the brake drum assembly procedure 1)~2) in the chapter). 4) Connect the cable and the brake parking lever (see the brake lever assembly procedure 1) in the chapter). Then the brake lever cannot be adjusted. Notice: the assembly of the left/right wheel parking brake must follow the steps 1)~3) mentioned above. 5) Firmly clamp the cable with reference to the figure. 6) After assembly, adjust the cable (see the check and adjustment of parking brake in the chapter). Then check if the brake drum is jammed and if the braking system is in good performance.

Put down the car from the lifting equipment to carry out brake test. 5. Brake pad Disassembly 1) Jack up the car to remove the wheels. 2) Take apart the E-shaped clip that is used to fix the brake hose and remove the hose from the support. 3) Remove the caliper pin bolts. 4) Remove the caliper from the bracket. Notice: Hoist the removed caliper by a steel wire hook to avoid brake hose being excessively bent, twisted or pulled. Do not press the brake pedal after the brake pad is removed. 5) Remove the brake pad. 1. Caliper

Check

2. Steel wire hook

3. Brake pad

1. Caliper 2. Caliper pin bolt 3. Brake disc

Brake pad Check if the brake pad lining is worn. If it is excessively worn, replace it with the a new one. Caution: Never use abrasive paper to polish the brake pad lining, or the hard particles will penetrate into the lining to damage the brake disc. When the brake lining needs to be changed, use a new one. Pad thickness (lining + brake pad) Standard: 15mm Limit: 7mm Notice: In removing the brake pad, observe whether there is brake fluid leak on the caliper. If there is, repair it. Wheel cylinder sliding pin/caliper pin bolt Check if the sliding pin can slide smoothly as shown in the figure below.

―A‖ applied with rubber grease

。If there is damage in it, repair or change it. Apply rubber grease to the outer surface of the sliding pin and caliper pin bolt. The viscosity of rubber grease is basically not affected at low temperature of -40℃. Sliding bushing of boot and pin Check if the boot and bushing have cracks and damage. If they are damaged, change them. Brake disc Check the scrape on the brake disc surface and worn parts. Check or change periodically, and notice that it is normal to have scrapes on the brake disc surface. The brake disc is not damaged, unless the scrape is serious. But if the scrape on the brake disc surface is too deep or high, the brake disc shall be changed. If there are scrapes on only one side, it shall be polished and repaired. Change he brake disc when it is worn to a certain degree. Brake disc thickness: Standard: 12.0mm Limit: 10.0mm Secure the brake disc against the hub with wheel nuts and then fit on a dial indicator, as shown in the figure. To measure the deviation of brake disc, take two points from the circumference of the brake disc to measure with a dial indicator when the brake disc is turned. Brake disc deviation limit: 0.15mm Special tools (A): 3509150-01 (B): 3509160-01 Notice: Check if the front wheel bearing gets loosened before measurement. Assembly 1) Fit the gasket to the friction block, and then fit on the block clip, and finally fit the friction block to the caliper bracket. 2) Fit on the caliper and tighten the caliper pin bolts to the specified torque. Notice: Make sure the boot is firmly fitted into the groove. Tightening torque

(a): 85 N·m 3) Fit the E-shaped clip firmly to the stud. 4) Tighten the front wheel nuts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 85 N．m 5) Carry out the brake test after the assembly finishes.

1. Clip 2. Pad 3. Brake disc 4. Caliper bracket

1. Caliper pin bolt

6. Caliper assembly Disassembly 1) Jack up the car to remove the wheels. 2) Remove the E-shaped clip. 3) Unscrew the hose joint bolt slightly at the caliper. Caution: Be careful not to twist and knot the hose in unscrewing the bolt. 4) Remove the caliper pin bolt. 5) Remove the caliper from the bracket. 6) Disconnect the hose from the caliper. Be careful not to twist the hose, as it will cause the brake fluid to flow out of the hose. Accordingly, there shall be a vessel prepared ahead.

1. E-shaped ring

1. Caliper 2. Caliper pin bolt 3. Brake disc

Disassembly Clean the caliper all around with brake fluid before disassembly. 1) Remove the piston cover locating ring and boot from the caliper. They shall be pried out by a chip tool. Be careful not to damage the boot. 2) Inject the compressed air to the cylinder through the bolt holes of the assembly hose, and then the piston can be pushed out from the cylinder under the action of the compressed air, as shown in the figure on the next page. Warning: The pressure of the compressed air shall not be too high, or it will separate the piston from the cylinder. The compressed air shall be of moderate pressure which can be slowly blown in to pull out the piston. Do not place your fingers before the piston when the compressed air is applied. 1. Boot locating ring

1. Cloth 3) Remove the piston seals by bladed tools like feeler. Caution: Be careful not to damage the cylinder inner wall (boring inside). Check Cylinder boot Check if the boot has rupture, cracks and damage. If yes, change them immediately. Piston sealing Excessive wear or uneven wear of brake pad lining are possibly the manifestation of unsmooth piston return. In this case, the rubber seal shall be changed.

Assembly: The front brake shall be reassembled in the reverse order of the disassembly. In doing so, pay attention to the following aspects. Caution: ·Use the same fluid in the master cylinder reservoir to clean up every elements before assembly. ·Never use other fluid or diluent. ·Apply brake fluid to the piston and piston seals before they are fitted to the cylinder. ·Exhaust the air after the brake pipe is reassembled. Piston seals The piston seals are used to seal pistons and cylinders, and to adjust the clearance between the friction block and brake disc as well. They shall be replaced with the new ones in every overhaul. The piston seals shall be fitted into the cylinder groove and be careful not to distort them. Piston and boot 1) Fit the boot on the piston before it is inserted into the cylinder, as shown in the figure. 2) Fit on the boot, and press the boot into the cylinder groove by hand.

3-Groove side faces the brake pad side

2-Groove side faces the pump side 1. Boot 2. Piston 3) Insert the piston to the cylinder by hand, and fit the boot into the piston boot groove. 4) To ensure that the boot is properly fitted into the cylinder groove, the piston shall be pulled out a little, not wholly, from the cylinder. Notice: The face B of the boot shall be at the same height as the face A of the cylinder. 5) Insert the piston into the cylinder by hand. 6) Fit on the boot locating ring.

Caliper Check to make sure the caliper can move smoothly in the insert direction before it (cylinder block) is fitted to the bracket.

Notice: The rubber grease shall be used under in the cold condition where the temperature is as low as -30℃, for the change of its viscosity is very small, even so at -40℃. Assembly 1) Connect the caliper and the hose. 2) Apply grease to the caliper pin belts and sliding pins, and then fit the caliper to the bracket.

―A‖ Apply rubber grease

3) Tighten the caliper pin bolts to the specified torque. Notice: Make sure that the boot is firmly fitted into the groove. Tightening torque (a): 85N·m 4) Tighten the hose joint bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (b): 16 N·m Warning: Make sure that the hose is not distorted when the joint bolts are tightened up, or they shall be connected again, in which they shall never be distorted. 5) Fit the E-shaped clip into the strut firmly. 6) Lower the lifting jack.

7) Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque. 8) After assembly, fill the reservoir with brake fluid and exhaust the air in the braking system. After this, carry out brake tests to check if the mounting members leak oil. 1. Caliper pin bolt

7. Brake disc Disassembly 1) Jack up the car and remove the wheels. 2) Unscrew the bracket bolts (2), and remove the caliper assembly. Caution: During the disassembly, be careful not to damage the brake hose and press the brake pedal. 3) Pull apart the brake disc with 8mm bolts (2) Check See the contents of the check on brake pad.

1. 8mm bolt Assembly 1) Fit the brake disc to the hub 2) Fit the caliper assembly to the steering knuckle. 3) Tighten the caliper bracket bolt to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 95 N·m 4) Tighten the front wheel nuts to the specified torque.

5) Carry out the brake test after assembly. 8. Disassembly of brake drum 1) Jack up the car and remove the wheel 2) Remove the bracket case. 3) Release the bake parking lever (hand brake) 4) Unscrew the parking brake cable nuts. 5) Unscrew the 8mm bolts and pull out the brake drum.

Check

1. Brake parking lever 2. Brake cable 3. Nut

1. 8mm bolt

Brake drum Check if the brake drum is clean. Check if the brake surface is worn by measuring its inside diameter. Brake drum inside diameter Standard: 220mm Operating limit: 222mm Whenever the brake drum is removed, it shall be thoroughly cleaned, and checked to make sure whether there are cracks, scrape and deep scratches. It is not safe to continue using the cracked brake drum, so it shall be changed timely. The cracks in the brake drum shall never be welded. Slight scrape has little impact on the smoothness, but too many or severe scrapes will cause excessive wear to the brake lining. In this case, the brake surface of the brake drum shall be repaired. If the brake lining has slight wear, and the brake drum has scratches, the brake drum shall be polished with good emery cloth, not turned. Brake shoe If the wear of brake friction facing exceeds the operating limit, it shall be changed. Brake friction facing thickness (facing + brake shoe rim) Standard: 6.9mm

Operating limit: 3.5mm If the wear of one brake friction facing reaches the maximum operating limit, all the facings shall be changed. Caution: Never use abrasive paper to polish the facing. If so, the hard particles of the abrasive paper will penetrate in it to damage the brake drum. If necessary, replace it with a new one. Assembly Notice of assembly: see the annotation at the beginning of Section Ⅱ in the chapter. 1) Before the brake drum is installed, to ensure a maximum clearance between the brake shoe and the brake drum, a screwdriver shall be placed between the rod and ratchet to push down the ratchet, as shown in the figure. Notice: The right figures indicates that the position at which the ratchet is when the clearance between the brake shoe and the brake drum is maximum. 2) The brake drum cannot be installed until it is sure that there are no dirt or oil stain on the brake drum inside and brake shoe. 3) After installation, press down the brake pedal for 3 to 5 times with an load of about 400N to gain a suitable clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe. Adjust the parking brake cable (see ―Check and Adjustment of Parking Brake‖ for the adjustment method). 4) Install the bracket case

1. Lever 2. Ratchet

1. Lever 2. Ratchet 3. Screwdriver 5) Fit on the wheels, and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 70~100N·m 6) Check to make sure the brake drum is not jammed, and can apply the brake appropriately. Then let down the car from the lifting jack to carry out parking brake test (service brake and parking brake).

9. Brake shoe Disassembly 1) Carry out the brake drum disassembly procedure 1)~5). 2) urn the brake shoe clamp pin to remove the shoe clamp spring. 3) Remove the brake shoe. 4) Disconnect the parking brake shoe rod from the parking brake cable. 5) Remove the strut and spring. 1. Parking brake shoe rod 2. Parking brake cable

1. Brake shoe clamp pin 2. Brake shoe clamp spring 6) Remove the locating ring and disconnect the parking brake rod from the brake shoe rim. Check Brake strut

1. Locating ring 2. Parking brake shoe rod

Check if the strut ratchet is worn or damaged. Spring check if the spring is damage, rusted, or the elasticity gets weak. If year, change its Parking brake shoe rod Check if the brake shoe rod can smoothly move around the shoe rim. If damaged, repair or change it.

Assembly 1) As shown in the figure, assemble the elements in the reverse order of the disassembly. Notice: The removed locating ring shall be changed instead of being reused. 2) Install the shoe clamp spring by compressing the spring in place and turning the clamp pin. 3) The procedure hereafter can refer to the brake drum assembly procedures 1)~6).

1. Shoe clamp pin

2. Shoe clamp spring

10. Wheel brake pump Disassembly 1) Carry out the brake drum disassembly procedures 1)~5) 2) Carry out the brake shoe disassembly procedures 2)~4) 3) Unscrew the brake pipe joint bolts, and do not let the brake fluid leak. 4) Remove the wheel brake cylinder‘s mounting bolts; disconnect the brake pipe from the wheel brake cylinder and put the drain plug cover on the brake pipe to avoid overflow of brake fluid.

1. Drain plug cover 1. Brake pipe bolt

Check Check if the removed elements of the wheel brake cylinder has wear, cracks, corrosion or damage.

Notice Clean the wheel cylinder elements with brake fluid. Assembly 1) Fit the cylinder seat to the wheel brake cylinder; then remove the drain plug cover from the brake pipe which shall be correctly connected to the wheel brake cylinder to avoid leakage. 2) Tighten the wheel brake cylinder to the brake bottom plate to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 72 N·m 3) Tighten the brake pipe joint nut to the specified torque, and the brake pipe shall be connected as required by the step 1). Tightening torque (b): 16 N·m 4) Fit the plug cover removed from the brake pipe to the original drain plug.

1. Wheel brake cylinder 2. Cylinder seat 5) See the brake shoe assembly procedures 1) and 2) to fit on the brake shoe.

1. Brake bottom plate 2. Brake pipe nut 3. Brake pipe 4. Wheel brake cylinder bolt

6) See the brake drum assembly procedures 1) and 2) to fit on the brake drum.. 7) Fill the reservoir with brake fluid and exhaust the air in the braking system. (see ―Air Exhaust of Brake‖ for the exhaust operation.) 8)After installation, press down the brake pedal for 3 to 5 times with a force of about 30kg to gain a suitable

clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe. Adjust the parking brake cable (see ―Check and Adjustment of Parking Brake‖ for the adjustment method). 9) Install the bracket case. 10) Fit on the wheels, and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque. (see ―Technical Requirement of Tightening Torque). 11) Check and make sure that the brake drum is not jammed and has a suitable brake. Then let down the car from the lifting jack to carry out brake test (service brake and parking brake). 12) Check if the mounting pieces leak oil. 11. Disassembly of brake bottom plate 1) Carry out the brake drum disassembly procedures 1)~5). 2) Carry out the brake shoe disassembly procedures 2)~4). 3) Carry out the wheel brake cylinder disassembly procedures 3)~4). 4) Remove the parking brake cable clip and tear down the parking brake cable from the brake bottom plate. 5) Unscrew the brake bottom bolts. 6) Pull out the brake bottom plate and the rear axle. See Section Ⅱ in Chapter Ⅴ. 7) Remove the wheel bearing. See Section Ⅱ in Chapter Ⅴ. 8) Remove the brake bottom plate from the rear axle shaft.

Assembly

1. Brake bottom plate 2. Parking brake cable 3. Clip

1) Fit the brake bottom plate to the rear axle shaft. 2) Fit on the wheel bearing and locating ring by pressing. 3) Apply grease to axle shaft oil seal cover as shown in the figure. “A”: grease 6206999-01 4) Apply sealant to the fitting surface of the axle housing with brake bottom plate. Notice: Eliminate the old sealant before applying new sealant.

1. Brake bottom plate 2. Bottom plate bolt

“B”: sealant 6100997-01 5) Fit the rear axle shaft to the rear axle housing. 6) Tighten the brake bottom plate bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 25N·m 7) Fit on the wheel brake cylinder and tighten the wheel brake cylinder bolts and brake pipe joint nuts to the specified torque. (see the wheel brake cylinder assembly procedure 1)~4)).

1. Oil seal 2. Axle housing

8) Apply waterproof sealant to the contact of the bottom plate and the cable. Turn the parking brake cable and secure it with a clip through the brake bottom plate. “A”: sealant 6100997-01 9) Fit on the brake shoe. See the brake shoe assembly procedures 1) and 2). 1O) Fit on the brake drum. See the brake drum assembly procedures 1) and 2). 11) Refill the differential case with new gear oil complying with the specified requirements.

1. Brake bottom plate 2. Parking brake cable 3. Clip

12) Fill the reservoir with brake fluid, and exhaust the air in the braking system (see ―Exhaust Operation of Brake‖). 13) Fit on the wheel and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque. 14) After installation, press down the brake pedal for 3 to 5 times with a force of about 400N to gain a suitable clearance between the brake drum and brake shoe. Adjust the parking brake cable (see ―Check and Adjustment of Parking Brake‖ for the adjustment method).

1. Reservoir cap 2. Reservoir 3. Reservoir hose 4. Reservoir bracket 5. Nut

15) Install the bracket case. 16) Check and make sure that the brake drum is not jammed and has a suitable brake. Then let down the car from the lifting jack to carry out brake test (service brake and parking brake). 17) Check all the fitted element to make sure whether they have leakage. 12. Master cylinder reservoir Disassembly 1) Disconnect the reservoir wires. 2) Clean up the reservoir outside. 3) Eliminate the fluid by a syringe. 4) Disconnect the main brake hose from the reservoir. 5) Remove the nuts of the reservoir bracket. 6) Remove the reservoir. Assembly 1) Fit on the reservoir and tighten the nut to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 11N·m 2) Connect the reservoir hose with the reservoir. 3) Fit on the reservoir wire grip. 4) Fill the brake fluid to the maximum level. 5) Carry out the exhaust operation. See brake exhaust and check for leakage. 13. Master cylinder assembly

1. Reservoir 2. Wire jointer 3. Main brake hose 4. Nut

1. Piston locating circlip 2. Piston locating block 3. Cylinder head and bottom plate 4. #1 piston 5. Piston cup 6. #2 piston pressure cup 7. #1 piston assembly 8. #2 piston 9. #2 piston assembly 10. #2 piston locating block bolt 11. Master cylinder 12. O ring

1. Master cylinder 2. Coupling nut 3. Fixing nut

Disassembly 1) Clean the reservoir cap and eliminate the fluid by a syringe. 2) Disconnect the reservoir hose. 3) Disconnect the brake hose from the master cylinder. Caution: Do not stain the painted surface with brake fluid. 4) Unscrew the two fixing nuts. 5) Remove the master cylinder. Disassembly 1) unscrew the pin and joint that are used to fix the cylinder block with a special tool. 1. Joint 2. Pin 3. Rubber gasket

Special tool (A): 3509170-01 2) Remove the joint and the 2 rubber gaskets. 3) Remove the circlip. 4) Remove the #1 piston Remove the piston locating bolt. Then blow in the compressed air

1. Circlip 2. Master cylinder

through the piston locating bolt hole to remove the #2 piston. Be careful when the #2 piston is removed, for it may jump out. Check Check if the removed part are worn or damaged, and change them if necessary. Notice: Clean the removed parts with the brake fluid. 1. Locating bolt 2. Compressed air

The piston assembly shall not be reused.

Check if the master cylinder block has scratches or corrosion, and change the corroded cylinder. If the cylinder block is pitted or is too rough, it means the cylinder block has been corroded. Notice: It is prohibited to use any abrasive to polish the master cylinders with cast aluminum seat, for it will damage the cylinder block. Rinse the master cylinder in the clean brake fluid, and then shake off the brake fluid. Do no use the cloth to wipe the cylinder, for the fluff will adhere to the master cylinder surface. Assembly Caution: ·Do not use any mineral oil in cleaning and assembling the parts, for example coal oil and gasoline. ·Check to make sure that there is not impurities like dust and dirt on the cylinder inner wall, piston and cup seals. Be careful to use tools to assemble them, or they will be damaged. ·Any parts shall not fall off, and any part that has fallen off shall not be reused. 1)Apply brake fluid to the contact surface of the cylinder inside and the piston assembly, and then insert the #2 piston into the cylinder block. Make sure the piston cup is fitted to the correct direction so that it cannot be jammed when inserted into the cylinder. 2) Fit the 1# piston into the cylinder . 3) Push down to fit on the circlip. 4) Fit on the piston locating piston and then push the piston in entirely.

1. Locating bolt

Tighten it up to the specified torque. Tightening torque: (a): 10N·m 5) Apply a thin layer of brake fluid around the two new rubber gaskets before fitted to the cylinder, and then install the reservoir. 1. Rod 2. Circlip

6) Fit the new pin to the joint hole and screw it into, and at the same time, align the pin end with the spare end surface of the joint (equal length).

Assembly Notice:

1. Pin 2. Joint 3. Master cylinder

·See the annotation at the beginning of the chapter.

·Check the clearance between the booster piston rod and the master cylinder piston (See “Check and Adjustment of Brake Booster ”). ·Use a special tool to adjust the length of the booster piston rod (see “Check and Adjustment of Brake Booster ”). 1) Fit on the master cylinder as shown in the figure, and tighten the fixing nut to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 15 N·m 2) Fit on the hydraulic tube, and tighten up the oil pipe joint nut to the specified torque. Tightening torque

1. Reservoir hose 2. Clip 3. Joint

(b) 16N·m 3) Connect the reservoir hose. Distance “a”: less than 5mm “b”: 4-10mm 4) Fill the reservoir with the brake fluid that complies with the requirements. 5) After assembly, check the brake pedal clearance and exhaust the air in the system (see ―Check on Brake Pedal Clearance and Brake Exhaust). 6) Carry out the brake test and check if the mounting pieces leak oil. 14. Brake booster

1. Brake booster assembly 2. Push rod U clamp 3. Nut 4. U clamp pin 5. Clip 6. Nut Disassembly: 1) Disassemble the master cylinder assembly. See the master cylinder disassembly procedures 1)~5). 2) Disconnect the stop light switch wire at the coupling. 3) Remove the pedal bracket extension (cars equipped with anti-lock braking system) 4) Remove the nuts of the 4-way joint oil pipe and remove the brake pipe. 5) Disconnect the #1 vacuum hose from the booster, and the #2 vacuum hose from the panel, and then remove the oil pipe and hose. 6) Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch pedal arm. ／

7 ) Remove the steering lower shaft. 8) Unscrew the pedal bracket mounting bolts and nuts from the panel. 9) Remove the pedal bracket with a brake booster.

1. Stop light switch coupling 4. Brake 2. Pedal bracket extension 5. #1 vacuum hose 3. 4-way joint 6. Steering lower shaft

1. Pedal bracket mounting bolt 2. Pedal bracket mounting nut

10) Detach the push rod U clamp from the brake pedal arm. 11) Unscrew the fixing nuts from the brake booster and remove the brake booster from the pedal bracket.

1. Pedal bracket 4. U clamp pin 2. Brake pedal arm 5. Pin 3. Push rod U clamp 6. Booster nut Caution: Do not tear down the brake booster, or its original functions will be damaged. If there is failure in it, replace it with the new one. Check and adjustment Length of push rod U clamp Check the lengthen of the push rod U clamp, whose size ―a‖ shall be is within 99.5~100.5, as shown in the figure. Tighten the nut to the specified torque. Size: “a”: 99.5-100.5mm Tightening torque (b): 25 N·m Notice: Whenever the booster is removed, make sure that the clearance between the piston rod and the master cylinder piston shall be correct (see the following procedures for the detailed specification).

1. Push rod U clamp 2. Nut

Clearance between the booster piston rod and the master cylinder piston Apply a negative pressure to the booster and let the engine idle. Then the clearance ―a‖ between the piston and the piston rod shall turn to be: Clearance “a”: 0.25~0.5mm ·Push the piston rod several times to make sure the reaction disc is in place before the clearance is measured. ·Keep a maximum pressure in the booster in measurement. 1) Fit the special tool (A) on the master cylinder till the push pin contacts the piston. Special tool (A): 3509180-01

1. Booster piston rod 2. Master cylinder piston

2) The special tool shall be inverted on the booster. Adjust the length of the booster piston rod till the rod end touch the pin cap. Special tool (A): 3509180-01 Clearance “b”: 0mm

1. Master cylinder 2. Piston 3. Pin cap Notice: The booster shall be upright in measurement, with the push rod in the middle and the piston rod fixed by a screwdriver. 3) Adjust the clearance by turning the piston rod adjusting screw. Special tool (B): 3509180-01 Reference: In carrying out the adjustment above, apply a negative pressure to the booster and let the engine idle. Then the clearance ―a‖ between the piston and the piston rod shall turn into: Clearance “a”: 0.25~0.5mm

Assembly

1. Booster piston rod 2. Master cylinder piston

Notice: ·See the annotation at the beginning of the chapter. ·Use a special tool to adjust the clearance between the booster piston rod and the master cylinder plunger (see Check and Adjustment).

·Check on the length of the push rod U clamp (see Check and Adjustment) 1) Fit the booster to the pedal bracket, and then connect the booster push rod U clamp with the pedal arm by a U clamp pin and clip. 2) Tighten the booster fixing nut to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 13N·m 3) Fit the pedal bracket to the front panel, and then tighten the pedal bracket bolts and nuts to the specified torque. Tightening torque (b): 25 N·m 4) Connect the clutch cable and the clutch pedal arm. See ―Clutch Cable Assembly‖ in Chapter Ⅲ. 5) Connect the #1 vacuum hose to the booster, and then connect the vacuum hose to the #2 vacuum hose. 6) Connect the brake pipe and 4-way joint. The oil pipe nut shall not be tightened too tightly. 7) Fit on the steering lower shaft. 8) Fit on the pedal bracket extension (used for the cars with anti-lock braking system) 9) Connect the stop light switch wire to the coupling. 10) Fit the master cylinder to the booster (see ―Master Cylinder Assembly‖ in this chapter). 11) Tighten the brake pipe nut to the specified torque. Tightening torque (c): 16 N·m 12) Fill the reservoir with the brake fluid that is up to the specification. 13) Carry out exhaust operation (see ―Air Exhaust of Brake). 14) After assembly, check the pedal height and clearance. Refer to ―Checks on Excessive Pedal Travel and Brake Pedal Clearance‖. 15) Carry out the brake test to check if the mounting pieces leak oil. 1. Brake pedal 9. #1 vacuum hose 2. Brake pedal arm 10. Brake hose 3. Push rod U clamp 11. 4-way joint 4. U clamp pin 12. Pedal bracket extension 5. Clip 13. Stop light switch coupling 6. Booster nut 14. Steering lower shaft 7. Pedal bracket mounting nut 8. Pedal bracket mounting bolt

15．LSPV(load sensing proportioning valve) Disassembly 1) Clean the reservoir cap and eliminate the fluid (brake fluid) by a syringe. 2) Jack up the car. 3) Disconnect the brake pipe from the LSPV. 4) Remove the LSPV assembly from the LSPV support. 5) Remove the spring from the LSPV rod. Caution: ·LSPV assembly nut shall not too loose nor too tight. ·Do not take apart the LSPV assembly. If it is damaged, replace it with a new one. Assembly Caution: See the “Caution” above.

1. LSPV assembly 2. LSPV spring 3. LSPV rod The assembly shall be made in the reverse order of the disassembly, while pay attention to the following aspects: 4. Nut 1) Apply the general-purpose grease to the upper and lower joints of the coil spring. 2) Tighten the bolt and nut marked in the figure to the specified torque respectively. Tightening torque (a): 23N·m (b)：16 N·m

―A‖ Apply grease

(c)：8.0 N·m 3) after assembly, fill the reservoir with the brake fluid that meet the requirements and then exhaust the air in the braking system. Notice: Make sure that the air is exhausted from the LSPV drain hole without fail.

4) After the exhaust, check if the LSPV is properly fitted. See the ―Check and Adjustment‖ below.

1. Bottom plate 2. Shaft cap

Check and adjustment The check and adjustment shall meet the following requirements: ·The fuel tank is filled with fuel. ·The car shall be equipped with spare tire, tools, jack and jack handle. ·The car has no other loads. The check and adjustment shall not be carried out until the conditions above are met: 1) Park the car on the flat ground. 2) Push the LSPV rod up till it cannot move further and then pull out the coil spring to measure the length (―L‖ in the figure) 3) The spring length ―L‖ shall comply with the following requirements: spring length ―L‖: 205mm. Notice:

1. LSPV rod 2. Nut Do not press the brake pedal in measuring the spring length. 3. LSPV 4) If the spring length fails to meet the requirements, change the tightening position of the bolt (a) to adjust the spring to the specified size, as shown in the right figure. After the adjustment, tighten the nut to the specified torque. Tightening torque (a): 23N·m Notice: Check to make sure the LSPV seat and brake pipe joints have no leakage. If there is, change the damaged parts.

Section Ⅴ Servicing materials, tightening torque and special tools Ⅰ. Servicing materials Materials

Recommended Haixing products

Use ·Fill the master cylinder reservoir

HZY3 Brake fluid

·Clean and apply to the external components of master cylinder caliper and wheel brake cylinder

3501999-01

·Apply to the fitting surface of the brake bottom plate and rear axle housing.

Sealing composition 366E

Waterproof sealant

6100997-01

· Apply to the fitting surface of the brake bottom plate and parking brake cable..

Ⅱ. Tightening torque Tightening torque Fastener N·m

Kg ·m

1b·ft

Brake caliper pin bolt

85

8.5

61.5

Brake caliper bracket bolt

95

9.5

69.0

Front brake hose joint bolt

16

1.6

12.0

Rear brake bolt

23

2.3

17.0

Master cylinder nut or booster nut

13

1.3

9.5

Brake booster push rod nut

25

2.5

18.5

Brake pipe 4-way joint nut

11

1.1

8.0

Proportioning valve bolt/4-way box bolt

10

1.0

7.5

Brake oil pipe nut

16

1.6

12.0

Brake pedal bracket bolt and nut

25

2.5

18.5

11

1.1

8.0

8

0.8

6.0

Wheel nut

85

8.5

61.5

Wheel cylinder bolt

12

1.2

9.0

20

2.0

14.5

23

2.3

17.0

Brake drain hole

Brake parking lever bolt

LSPV bolt (nut)

Ⅲ. Special tools

Pin remover

Booster piston rod adjustor

Brake circulation plug

Dial indicator

Oil pipe nut wrench

Magnetic stand

Hydraulic pressure gauge

Hydraulic pressure gauge accessory

Chapter Ⅵ Car body maintenance Section Ⅰ Structure and maintenance of SY1020 front door Ⅰ. Structure of front door

1. Front door weld assembly; 2. Front door trim panel; 3. Front door trim panel waterproof membrane; 4. Front door glass internal weather strip; 5. Front door glass external weather strip; 6. Front door frame sealing strip; 7. Front door opening stopper; 8. Front door rear channel assembly; 9. Front door glass peripheral strip; 10. Front door window lifter Assembly; 11. Front door glass clamp strip;12. Front door glass clamp rubber strip; 13.Windown lifter crank;14. Front door hinge; 15. Front door internal handle; 16. Front door external handle; 17. Front door lock assembly; 18. Front door lock core assembly; 19. Front door lockpin assembly; 20. Front door check pin; 21. Internal lock-off button; 22. Front door glass; 23. Front door garnish

Ⅱ. Maintenance of front door Front door glass and glass lifter Disassembly

1) Remove the window lifter crank, which shall be pulled out by a piece of cloth, as shown in the figure. 2) Roll down the front door glass totally. 3) Unscrew the screw and then remove the internal handle assembly from the door trim panel by sliding it forwards. 4) Remove the door rearview mirror garnish and clips. 5) Unscrew the screw and then remove the plug connectors and door membrane. 6) Remove the electric window switch plug connectors and clips.

1. Cloth strip 2. Crank

7) Remove the front door trim panel waterproof membrane. 8) Unscrew the mounting bolt in the door front channel. 9) Unscrew the fixing screw in the front door glass clamp strip 1O) Remove the front door glass. 11) Unscrew the fixing screws (6) of the front door window lifter assembly, and then take out the glass lifter from the hole A.

1. Front door rear channel 2. Front door glass peripheral strip 3. Front door window lifter assembly 4. Front door glass

1. Fixing screw 2. Front door window lifter assembly

Check:

Lubricating points of front door window lifter assembly

·Check the lubrication of the sliding and revolving parts of the front door window lifer assembly. ·Check if the gear is worn or damaged. ·Check if the hinge is damaged. Assembly The front door glass and front door window lifter assembly shall be installed in the reverse order of their disassembly, ant the following aspects shall be paid attention to. ·When fitting the glass into the front door glass clamp strip, dip the clamp strip into the soapy water, and then tap the glass in lightly with a plastic hammer. The position where the glass is fitted is as shown in the figure.

Section: A-A

Length “a”: 56.5~60.5mm 1. Glass clamp strip ·In fitting on the glass, check to make sure whether the glass top evenly contact the front door glass peripheral strip and whether the glass can slide up and down flexibly. If the glass fails to be in the strip, adjust it with screws as shown in the figure. ·Seal the door trim panel firmly with glue ·The window lifter crank shall be such installed that it is 45°when the glass is fully lifted 1. Window lifter crank 2. Front door internal handle 3. Screw

1. Fixing screw 2. Front door window lifter assembly

1. Front door external handle 2. Front door lock core assembly 3. Front door internal handle 4. Front door lock assembly 5. Front door lockpin assembly Disassembly of door lock 6. External lock-off button

Disassembly 1) Lift up the front door glass totally. 2) Remove the window lifter crank, door rearview mirror garnish, door trim panel, electric window switch, door trim panel and front door rear channel (see ―Disassembly of Front Door Glass and Front Door Window Lifter Assembly) 3) Remove the joints of the control lever, and then remove the door external handle and door lock assembly. Assembly The assembly shall be made in the reverse order of the disassembly, and pay attention to the following requirements. ·Fit on the door lockpin. Move the door lockpin up and down to align the lockpin with the center groove A of the door lock.

Notice: The lockpin shall place horizontally, and shall move vertically. The door lock shall be

1. Door lock 2. Front door external handle 3. Sleeve (holder) 4. Front door lock core assembly

not adjusted. Close the door to adjust the lockpin so as to make the door surface is flush with the car body, with a height difference of 0mm.

1. Lock 2. Lockpin boss 3. Lockpin

1. Car body 2. Door

3. Lockpin 4: Front side

To correctly get the position of the lockpin hole, adjust it by increasing or reducing the gasket between the car body and the lockpin. The size ―b‖ shall be adjusted to the specified value. Size “b”: 3.3~5.3mm Notice: The lockpin joint shall be applied with grease regularly Front door assembly Disassembly 1) Remove the door wire harness connector and remove the corrugated pipe from the car body.

1. Lockpin boss 2. Gasket 3. Door 4. Front side 5. Car body

2) Tap out the front door check pin with a hammer.

1. Door check 2. pin

1. Corrugated pipe 2. Plug connector

1. Wooden component

3) Place a board between the jack and door skin to support the

door. 4) Unscrew the hinge mounting bolt and remove the door assembly. Assembly Assemble the front door in the reverse order of its disassembly ·Apply sealant to the hinge mounting surface, as shown in the figure, and apply grease to the revolving part. ·If the sealing step is hardened, there will be serious water leakage. In this case, it shall be replaced with a new sealing strip. · Refer to ―Front Door Lock Assembly‖ to adjust the door lockpin position to put the door in a suitable position. ·Close the door to adjust the front door cushion rubber to contact the door with the car body.

Section Ⅱ Windscreen

1. Windscreen seal 2. Windscreen side trim strip 3. Windscreen Windscreen Use special-purpose glue to fit on the windscreen (that is, use single-component urethane glue with the primer). Changing the windscreen must use the glue of strong adhesion and shall be done according to the following methods. Caution: ·In this chapter, primer Ⅱ and glue Ⅰ(urethane glue used in conjunction with the primer) made by YOKOHAMA are used to change the windscreen. When primer and glue of other manufacturers are put in use, the manual they provided shall be followed. Failure to follow the procedures or misuse of other glue will impair the performance of original glue. Therefore, be careful to read the manual and instruction book provided by the glue manufacturer before do such work. The whole repair must follow the procedure and correct method. ·The scratched surface and other damage surfaces shall be painted. The damaged part shall be repaired, or

the corrosion will start here. If the type of glue mentioned above is used, the bonding strength shall meet the following requirement. Shear strength: 0.4Mpa or above Glue and tools necessary to remove the windscreen Single-component urethane glue and primer material. Quantity (of installing one windscreen) Glue (300g) Glass primer (15g) Car body primer (15g) ·Awl ·Steel wire ·Brush for applying primer (2) ·Knife ·Rubber cupule ·Sealant guns (filled with glue) ·Putty scraper (scrape mucus) Disassembly 1) Clean the inside and outside and the circumference of the windscreen 2) Remove the wiper arm. 3) Remove the trimming garnish and fixture block. 4) Cover the car body around the windscreen with tape to avoid damage. 5) Remove the dashboard and roof lining. 6) Remove the rearview mirror, sun visor, front pillar trimming garnish and then remove the windscreen trim strip from the front pillar (right/left). 7) Remove (or cut off) all the strips around the windscreen to reveal the glass edge. 8) Use a windscreen knife to cut off the glue around the glass. If it is wiped by steel wire, please follow the steps 9) and 10). 9) Drill through the glue by an awl and thread the steel wire through it.

1. Awl

10) Cut off the glue around the windscreen with steel wire. Notice: The steel wire when used shall be close to the windscreen as much as possible to avoid damage to the car body.

1. Steel wire 2. Tape 3. Windscreen 4. Glue 11) Use a knife to smoothly scrape the glue remained at the car body side, with a penetration depth of 1~2mm. Notice: The knife shall, before used, be cleaned in alcohol or alike to get rid of the greasy dirt. 12) When the glass is removed again, the division bar and glue shall be totally removed.

Assembly

1. Knife 2. Glue 3. Car body

1. Glue 2. Primer

1) Use washing liquid (aviation gasoline) to wash the glue remained on the car body (or the windscreen edge) at the place where the windscreen is glued. (dry it for more than 10 Primer minutes) Brush Primer 2) Clean thoroughly the old glue contact surface, painted surface or exposed metal. Apply the car body primer carefully to the Old glue painted surface or exposed metal. Do not apply the premier to the No primer glue surface remained on the car body. Notice: ·Please do follow the instruction book of the primer manufacturer to perform the operation and dry it for

the specified time. ·The primer shall not contact the car body and glass glue surface. 3) Wipe off the glue on the glass with clean cloth; if washing liquid is used, dry it for over 10 minutes. 4) Fit the windscreen trim strip to the front pillar, and then install the fixture block.

1. Windscreen seal 4. Windscreen side seal 2. Windscreen 5.Clump 3. Windscreen pad 5) Use a new brush to apply adequate primer along the windscreen edge. Notice: ·Please be sure to follow the manufacturer‟s instruction book to perform proper operation and dry it for a specified time.

1. insertion strip 2. Parting strip

·Do not apply the primer to the place where finishing paint is applied. ·Do not touch the primer surface. Width: “a”: about 20mm “b”: about 20mm “c”: about 18mm 6) See the right figure to apply the glue. Notice:

1. Insertion strip

2. Glue

3. Windscreen

·Apply the glue from the bottom of the glass. ·Be careful not to damage the primer. ·The glue height at the bottom shall be higher than the other three sides: upper side, right side and left side. Width “e”: about 8mm Height “f”: about 14mm

·Press the glass into the car body immediately the glue is applied. ·After the glue is applied, use a rubber cupule to grip the glass. ·Finish the steps from 7) to 9) within 10 minutes to ensure the glue of adequate viscosity. · The treatment method and drying time must follow the glue manufacturer‟s instruction book. 7) Cut off the residual paper from the insertion strip and parting strip. 8) Use a rubber cupule to press the glass into the car body, and tap the glass surface and the insertion strip around it to fasten the glass.

Notice: Be careful not to damage the glass surface or the car body. 9) Fix the top insertion strip. 10) Spray water on the windscreen with a hose to check if it leaks. If yes, dry the windscreen and fill the leakage point with glues. If it still leaks, remove the glass and re-install it again according to the method above. Notice: ·Do not use the high pressure water. ·In drying, do not use the compressed air to directly blow the place dry where glue is applied ·Do not use infrared lamp or alike to bake it dry.

1. Rubber cupule Caution: Pay attention to the following aspects in assembly: ·Sudden closing of door before the glue gets dry will cause the glass to get loosened or fall off. Thus, all the door glass shall be opened before the glue gets dry regardless of whether the doors are closed or opened. Be careful to perform the operation. ·If the insertion strip cannot be firmly fixed in place, use the tap to fasten it till the glue is fully stuck. ·Every type of glue has its own drying time, so that be sure to refer to the manufacturer‟s instruction book to be aware of the drying time before apply them. Be sure to follow the notices beforehand. ·The car is not permitted to be driven until the glue become fully cemented so as to ensure firm cementation.

11) Install the rearview mirror, roof insertion strip, front pillar trimming garnish, sun visor, garnish and wiper.

Section Ⅲ Seat structure and its disassembly and assembly

Front seat

1. Right front seat back assembly 2. Right front seat cushion assembly 3. Left front seat back assembly 4. Left front seat cushion assembly 5. Right front seat internal adjustor 6. Right front seat external adjustor 7. Left front seat internal adjustor 8. Left front seat external adjustor 9. Right front seat floor 10. Left front seat floor 11. Headrest assembly

Folding seat (three-row seat model)

Passenger double seat (three-row seat model)

Passenger triple seat (three-row seat model) Passenger triple seat (two-row seat model)

11. headrest assembly 12. Rear seat cushion assembly 13. Rear seat back assembly 14. Rear seat right leg assembly 15. Rear seat hinge assembly 16. Rear seat floor latch assembly 17. Rear seat floor latch shaft

Disassembly 1) Remove the seat rail mounting bolt, and then remove the seat internal and external adjusters and the floor (front seat) from the seat assembly. 2) If necessary, remove the seat to adjust, repair or change it. Assembly The front seal shall be assembled in the reverse order of the disassembly. Tighten it to the specified torque as follows: Tightening torque “a”: 55N·m “b”: 25N·m “c”: 5 N·m

Section Ⅳ Disassembly and assembly of seat belt

1. Buckle 2. Seat belt 3. Seat belt plug connector 4. Fixing bolt 5. Front seat 6. Retractor assembly Warning: If it is necessary to change the seat belt, the buckle and emergency locking retractor (or vehicle-sensitive emergency locking retractor) shall be changed together. Only this, the buckle can lock the bolt plate firmly. If only these parts are changed dividedly, the lock conditions will produce unsafe factors. Thus we only provide complete set of spare buckle and emergency locking retractor (or vehicle-sensitive emergency locking retractor). Seat belt maintenance: pay attention to the following notices before repair or change the seat belt: 1) The seat belt shall be normally fitted to the belt retractor and buckle. 2) Do no let sharp edges and objects that are possible to damage the seat belt to approach. 3) Do not bend or damage the belt buckle and bolt plate. 4) Do not bleach or dye the seat belt (which can only be washed by neutral soap and warm water). 5) Manually screw the fixing nuts and bolts of the seat belt to avoid sliding when they are fitted. 6) Do not make any repair to the retractor or retractor cap; they shall be replaced with the new one. 7) Keep the belt dry and clean all the time. 8) Any part that has fault shall be changed. 9) Change the belt which has notches or damage in braid. 10) Do not place any object in the trim panel opening through which the belt passes. Disassembly and assembly

Assemble and disassemble the rear seat belt in accordance with the figure mentioned above. Notice: The seat belt fixing bolt shall be tightened to the specified torque. The fixing bolts and nuts of the seat belt are of the uniform fine thread (7/6-20UNF). Never use the bolts of different type or of metric thread in any case. Tightening torque (a): 35N·m Check Seat belt and accessories are the vital parts and key system of a car, so they shall be carefully inspected and can only be replaced with certified products. 1) Seat belt The braid and suture line shall have no damage. 2) Retractor When it is pulled out quickly, the belt shall be locked. The retractor of the front seat belt shall not only pass the inspection above, but also lock the belt when it inclines about 15°from head to tail or to the left and right. 3) Bolts The bolts shall be tightened to the specified torque. 4) Buckle It shall be firm when locked. 5) Alarm system Check the driver seat belt switch.

Section Ⅴ Frame size Frame size

Unit: mm

Chapter Ⅷ Air conditioning, heating, ventilation system Section Ⅰ Heating and ventilation equipment 1. Composition 1. Heater and ventilator The heater and ventilator of the car consist of control knob (lever), fan motor, heater core and air duct. The fan motor feeds the air into the car. The heater core keeps circulating the cooling water heated in the motor. Every control knob (lever) controls the fan motor speed, temperature and exhausts the air (damper in the heating and ventilation equipment works) so as to convey the air to the where it is needed.

① Windscreen defrosting exhaust valve ③ Side defrosting vent

④ Floor vent

2. Heater control operation A: Wind direction control knob B: Fresh air control lever C: Temperature control knob D: Fan motor speed control knob

② Central air vent

3. Wind direction control knob

Ventilator

(1) Ventilate from the central air vent (2) Ventilate from the central air vent or the lower air vent

B1-level

(3) Ventilate from the lower air vent (4)Ventilate from the lower air vent, defrosting vent and defogging vent

Heating

(5) Ventilate from the defrosting vent and defogging vent Heating defroster

Defroster

4. Fresh air control lever

Self-circulation of air in vehicle

Circulation of the air in vehicle and the fresh air outside the vehicle

5. Temperature control knob Cold

Hot

6. Fan motor speed control knob Low

High

Ⅱ. Fault diagnosis Troubles

Causes The fan fuse is blown. The fan resistor works abnormally.

The heater still fails to work when switched on.

Troubleshooting Change the fuse, and check the short circuit. Check the continuity

The fan motor works abnormally.

Change the motor

The circuit and ground are out of order.

Repair if necessary Change the fan blades or the heater case

Fan blades interfere in the heater case. The control cable breaks or bends. The temperature incorrect.

output is

The air pipe is blocked. The heater core leaks or is blocked. The heater hose leaks or is blocked.

Ⅲ. In-car service 1. Circuit diagram

Check the cable Repair the air pipe Change the heater core Change the hose

1. Battery 2. Main fuse 3. Ignition switch 4. Fuse box 5. Fan motor 6. heating resistor 7. Heater switch

2. Heater unit

1. Heater assembly 2. Fan assembly 3. Motor assembly 4. Resistor 5. Ventilation control lever 6. Ventilation control lever 7. Heater core 8. Heater case (left) 9. Heater case (right) 10. Bumper block 11. Air filter 12. Heater core support

Disassembly 1) Remove the battery negative wire. 2) Drain the engine cooling liquid and remove the heater hose on heater unit. 3) If there is an airbag system, make sure it is inoperative station. 4) Refer to the ―Dashboard‖ in the chapter to remove it, and remove the wire harness clip from the steering support element, and the remove the support element. 5) Remove the fan motor and resistor plug connector. 1. Heater unit 2. Nut 3. Heater intake guide 4. Air intake box

6) Remove the heater intake guide 7) Remove the heater unit 8) Pull out the heater core from the unit

1. Heater core 2. Heater case 3. Bracket 4. Gasket

Assembly 1) Assemble the heater unit in the reverse order of its disassembly. Pay attention to the following points: ·Be careful not to jam the cable or wire harness in fitting on the parts. · Refer to the ―Steering Column‖ in Chapter Ⅴ to install the steering column assembly. 2) Adjust the control cable (see ―Heating and Ventilation Control Cable‖ in the chapter) 3) Fill the engine cooling liquid into the radiator and then exhaust the air in the cooling system. 3. Heater blower resistance Disassembly 1) Remove the battery negative wire 2) Remove the fan resistor plug connector 3) Remove the heater fan resistor Check Measure the resistance between the terminals Terminal-terminal

Resistance

L-M1

2.8

M1-M2

1

M2-H

0.6

If the measured resistance is incorrect, change the heater resistor. Assembly The assembly shall be made in the reverse order of the disassembly. 4. Heater motor switch Disassembly 1) Remove the instrument wire harness and took kit. 2) Remove the control cable from the connecting bar. 3) Remove the wire of the plug connectors of the blower resistor switch. 4) Remove the stayed instrument wire harness retainer. 5) Remove the control knob assembly. Check Check the continuity between the terminals; if they fail to have continuity, change the control lever assembly.

Assembly The assembly shall be made in the reverse order of the disassembly.

Ventilation control lever

5. Heater control cable Adjustment Wind direction control cable 1) Set the control lever to the ventilation position 2) Turn the knob in the arrow direction to the end and stay there and then fix the cable, as shown in the figure.

Temperature control cable 1) Set the control lever to the ―cooling‖ position. 2) Turn the knob in the arrow direction to the end and stay there and then fix the cable, as shown in the left figure. Ventilation control lever

Temperature control link rod

Fresh air control cable 1) Set the control lever to the position ―circulation of fresh air and air in vehicle‖. 2) Pull the rod to the end in the arrow direction and then fix it as shown in the figure.

1. Fresh air shutter rod 2. Fresh air control cable

Section Ⅱ Air conditioner Notice: This type of air conditioning system adopts HFC-134a(R-134a) refrigerant. Prior to making any test or repair, it is necessary to check which refrigerant is used. In renewing or changing refrigerant and compressor oil and changing parts, be sure that the material and parts are suitable to the air conditioner under repair. Even if one part is misused, it will cause refrigerant leakage, part damage and other failures.

Ⅰ. Composition As an optional equipment, the air conditioner can supply from stock. This part will describe the function of its main parts as well as relevant content of installation and maintenance. 1. Main parts air conditioning system and refrigerant flow path

Forward

1. Compressor 2. Magnetic clutch 3. Condenser 4. Reservoir/dryer 5. High- and low-voltage protection switch 6. Expansion valve 7. Evaporator (core) 8. Fan motor 9. Overhead evaporator assembly 10. To front seat 11. To rear seat 2. System parts

Refrigerant state Liquid Vapor Superheated vapor

Cold air

1. Condenser assembly 2. Condenser fan 3. Drying bottle 4. Condenser inflow pipe 5. Front evaporator 6. Overhead evaporator 7. Compressor

3. Air conditioning system circuit Backlight power supply Blower motor Speed control resistor Air conditioner temperature sensor

Air conditi oner fan relay

Fan motor

Comp ressor relay Overhe ad evapor ator

Air condi tioner relay Air conditioner control panel

A/C switch

Ⅱ. Assembly of air conditioner parts 1. Preparations before installation Check and adjustment of the car

Check and adjust the following parts before installing the air conditioner: ·Engine ignition timing ·Engine cooling system ·Battery electrolyte and charging system ·Passenger compartment seal ·Fuel system ·General status of the car Preparation for the air conditioner parts Please remove the parts in the order of assembly. Then make sure that the parts art not missed or damaged. When the air conditioner is installed, the wing and seat must be covered by a cover. 2. Notice on installation 1) The battery negative wire must be removed. 2) The bolts in the tool kit must be used to install the engine‘s air conditioner parts and they shall be tightened to the specified torque. 3) In installation, the air conditioner pipe and wire harness must be designated with specific lines so as not to interfere in the surrounding parts. 4) The hose and the pipe must be connected after the flared pipe connecting nut bed is applied with 2-3 drops of refrigerant oil. 5) The pipe fittings must be tightened or unscrewed by two wrenches so as to let them to be evenly supported in such tightening or unscrewing. 6) The connecting nut must be tightened to the specified torque. 7) Do not remove the pipe-end plug of the fittings before the parts are connected in place. Notice: To let the refrigerant penetrate slowly, it is necessary to remove the plug from the compressor, for the compressor is allowed to have a little refrigerant in it to avoid seals being corroded when it is delivered. 8) Anyone who begins to treat HFC-134a(R-134a) refrigerant shall wear safety glasses. Be careful not to let the refrigerant contact with skin. 9) Put the HFC-134a(R-134a) refrigerant tank in the warm water to keep the temperature at 40℃. 3. Method of installation Refer to the manual attached to the air conditioner parts for the installation of air conditioner.

Vacuation at a time 50S Vacuation stopping 8S

Joint check and repair Abnormal system

Gas seal check

Vacuation at a time 25S Refrigerant charging

Charging 680k refrigerant

System check

Performance test

Ⅲ. Recovery, vacuum discharge and charging 1. Method of charging refrigerant to air conditioning system 2. Refrigerant recovery The refrigerant can be recovered by recoverer and recycle unit when it is discharged from the air conditioning system. If it is discharged into the atmosphere, it will cause damage to the environment. Notice: The recovery plant and recycle unit shall be treated in accordance with their manuals Vacuum-pumping system Notice: The air conditioning system shall, whenever it is opened (exposed to the atmosphere), be pumped to be vacuum by a vacuum pump. 3. Vacuum-pumping system 1) Screw off the cover of the high- and low-pressure tube and clasp the filling machine‘s output tube clamp to the air conditioner‘s high- and low-pressure tube filler 2) Operate the equipment 3) If there is no leakage, about 35s later, the equipment will display the vacuum below 760mmHg. 4) The vacuum-pumping time must last 50s in total. 5) Continue to pump till the vacuum is below 760mmHg. 4. Check on system leakage When the vacuum-pumping task is accomplished, the equipment will automatically stop vacuation for 8s to check

if the air conditioning system has leakage. Notice: If the equipment‟s displayed valve is largely different from the set value, it means there is a leakage somewhere. Then check the tube joints and make necessary correction. After this, vacuate the system again and ensure there is no leakage. 5. Charge refrigerant to the system The air conditioning system shall be charged with HfC-134a (R-134a) refrigerant. Here is a method which employs the refrigerant in the refrigerant maintenance vessel to charge the air conditioning system. If the refrigerant recovered by the refrigerant recovery and recycle equipment is used to charge the system (when the refrigerant is recycled), the procedures given in the manufacturer‘s manual shall be followed. Warning: ·Do not expose your eyes to the refrigerant (you must wear safety glasses). ·The temperature of any HFC-754a(R-134a) refrigerant leaked due to accident is below the freezing point. If the HFC-134a(R-734a) refrigerant splashes into your eyes, it will cause serious injury. To protect your eyes against such accident, it is necessary to wear the protective glasses (safety glasses). If HFC-134a(R-134a) splashes into your eyes, do not wipe your eyes, and go to see the doctor immediately. ·If the refrigerant does harm to a part of your body, wash it with cold water till the skin temperature returns to normal to minimize the damage. The go to see a doctor or an expert for proper therapy. If the HFC-134a (R-134a) refrigerant splashes to your skin, the injured part shall be treated with the same therapy as that for cold injury. ·Do not treat the refrigerant at the places close to welding or steam cleaning. ·The refrigerant must be kept in a shady place. It must be not placed in high temperature, for example, being directly exposed to the sun, placed near the fire or in a car ( including trunk). ·Try not to inhale the smoke produced in HFc-134a (R-134a) refrigerant burning, which is harmful to health. Caution: ·The refrigerant must be filled from the low-pressure side of the air conditioning system. ·The refrigerant must not be filled from the high-pressure side of the air conditioning system. ·Do not fill the refrigerant when the compressor heats. ·When holes are drilled in the refrigerant vessel to fit it a tap, it must be operated carefully in the direction specified by the manufacturer. ·A pressure gauge must be used before and during the refrigerant is refilled. ·When the refrigerant vessel is thrown away, be sure the refrigerant in it have been drained. ·The refrigerant vessel shall not be heated to or above 40℃.

·In filling refrigerant, the vessel shall not be reversed, for it will cause the liquid refrigerant to enter the compressor, which will result in failure, for example liquid hammer. 6. Refrigerant charging 1) When the system is vacuated, the equipment will automatically fill refrigerant to the system; 2) Screw up the filler lid after the refrigerant is filled; 3) When the refrigerant vessel is vacuated, replace it with a new one in accordance with the following procedure. 7. Check on leakage of air conditioning system Use an electronic leak detector to carefully check the leakage of the system. Warning: ·To avoid explosion and fire, be sure there is no inflammable materials nearby. ·The refrigerant, when exposed to the fire, will turn into poisonous gas (toxic gas). Do not inhale the gas (not put directly over a flame).

1. Electric leak detector

Ⅳ. Fault diagnosis Troubles

Causes

Troubleshooting

·The air conditioner fails to work. 1)No refrigerant 2) Fuse blowout 3) Failure in air conditioner and fan switches 4) Low idling 5) Failure in air conditioner thermal resistor 6) Failure in the water temperature sensor of air conditioner 7) Failure in highlow-voltage switches No cold air ( the air conditioning system works abnormally)

and

Recover, vacuate and charge refrigerant; check the fuse and heating & ventilation Change the air conditioner fuse and check if there is short circuit. Check the air conditioner and fan switches. Check and adjust air conditioner idle speed. Check the air conditioner thermal resistor. Check the water temperature sensor of air conditioner Check the high- and low-voltage switches Repair as required.

8) Circuit or ground fault ·The compressor fails to work (or operate) 1) Failure in compressor thermal protector 2) Magnetic clutch failure 3) Driving belt slackened or damaged

Check the compressor thermal protector Check the magnetic clutch Tighten or change the driving belt Check the compressor

4) Compressor failure ·Condenser fan fails to work. 1) Fuse blowout 2)Failure in the condenser fan relay of air conditioner 3) Circuit or ground fault 4) Failure in the condenser fan motor of air conditioner

Change the fuse and check if there is short circuit. Check the condenser fan relay Repair as required. Check the condenser fan motor

·Blower motor fails to work 1) Failure in the blower motor resistor 2) Failure in the air conditioner and fan switch 3) Circuit or ground fault

Check the blower motor resistor Check the conditioner and fan switch Repair as required Check the blower motor

4) Blower motor failure ·Refrigerant filled inadequately or excessively

Check the charging of refrigerant

·Condenser clogged

Check the system leakage

·Evaporator clogged or frozen

Check the condenser Check the evaporator Check the air conditioner thermal resistor failure

No or inadequate cold air (air conditioning system works normally)

Check the air conditioner controller ·Air conditioner thermal resistor failure ·Air conditioner controller failure ·Expansion valve failure

Check the air conditioner thermal resistor Check the air conditioner controller Check the expansion valve Check the dryer

·Dryer blocked

Check or change the driving belt

·Driving belt sliding

Check the magnetic clutch

·Magnetic clutch failure

Troubles

No or inadequate cold air (air conditioner works normally)

Causes

Troubleshooting

·Compressor failure

Check the compressor

·Existence of air in air conditioning system

Change the receiver drier and fill refrigerant after vacuation

·Air leak from the evaporator or air duct

Repair if necessary

overhead

·Failure in heater and ventilator

Check the evaporator assembly Check the heater control lever assembly

Check the heater assembly Check the blower motor ·Blower motor failure · Existence of excess compressor oil in air conditioning system

·Lin connection failure

Repair if necessary

·Expansion valve failure

Intermittent cold air

·High humidity in conditioning system

Check expansion valve the

air

·Magnetic clutch failure ·Failure in compressor thermal protector ·Condenser clogged. ·Inadequate refrigerant Producing cold air only at high speed

Pump out the compressor oil from the air conditioning system and change the compressor

·Existence of air in air conditioning system

Change receiver/dryer and vacuate and charge refrigerant Check the magnetic clutch Check the compressor thermal protector

Check the condenser Check the charging of refrigerant Change the dryer and then vacuate it Fill (refrigerant)

·Driving belt sliding ·Compressor failure

Check and change the driving belt Check the compressor

Check the charging of refrigerant ·Excess charging of refrigerant No cold air only at high speed

Check the evaporator ·Evaporator frozen Check the air conditioner‘s thermal resistor ·Evaporator clogged or frozen

Inadequate wind force of cold air

·Air leakage of cooling equipment or air duct ·Blower motor failure

Check the evaporator Check the air conditioner‘s thermal resistor Repair if necessary Check the blower motor

·Circuit or line fault

Repair if necessary

2. Check on driving belt of air conditioner compressor 1) Push the intermediate point between the compressor pulley and the crank pulley with a force of about 100N to measure its offset to check the tension of the belt. “a”: offset under 100N: 8~11mm Notice: When the belt is changed, adjust the tension to b 8~9mm. 2) Check if the belt has wear or cracks, and change it if necessary.

1. Driving belt 2. Crank pulley 3. Air conditioner compressor

3. Check on the refrigerant quanity through observation hole Make a quick check by the following procedures to check if the refrigerant filled to the air conditioning system is suitable. 1) Operate the air conditioner for several minutes according to the following setting. Air conditioner and fan switches: high position Motor speed:

1100rpm (high idle speed)

Ari vent window: full open 2) Check the refrigerant in the air conditioning system through the observation hole and compare the observed results with the following table.

―A‖ excess charging or no refrigerant ―B‖ suitable ―C‖ inadequate refrigerant 1. Observation hole 2. Bubble

No.

Troubles

Causes

Troubleshooting

l

There are bubbles found in the observation hole

The system is not adequately charged with refrigerant.

Use a leak detector to check if the system leaks.

2

There are no bubbles found in the observation hole

The refrigerant in the system runs out or is inadequately charged.

Refer to the step 3) and 4).

3

The temperature change at the compressor inlet and outlet is not great.

There is no or almost no refrigerant in the system.

Vacuate and refill the air conditioning system, and then use a leak detector to check the leakage.

4

The temperature at the compressor inlet is obviously different from that at the outlet.

Adequate or excess

Refer to the step 5 and 6.

5

When the air conditioner is shut down, the refrigerant in

The system is excessively charged with refrigerant.

Discharge the excess refrigerant and adjust it to the specified

the observation hole disappear immediately and the observation hole keeps clear.

6

When the air conditioner is closed, there are bubbles produced in the observation hole and then disappear.

charging level.

The system is charged with adequate refrigerant .

It is not necessary to take treatment, for the refrigerant is charged normally.

4. Check on air conditioner controller and its circuit The air conditioner controller and its circuit can be checked by measuring the voltage of the line connector of the air conditioner controller. Voltage check 3) Check the voltage of every terminal of the overhead evaporator line and then turn on the ignition switch. Notice: As the voltage of every terminal is affected by the battery voltage, verify whether the voltage is 11V or above when the ignition switch is turned on.

Ⅴ. In-car maintenance Notice: If it is necessary to disconnect or connect the refrigerant pipe to remove or reassemble any part of the air conditioning system, the following instructions shall be followed. ·When any pipeline is removed from the system, the pipe end plug or end cap shall be immediately fitted to the assembly parts of these pipelines. ·When the hose and pipe are connected mutually, the connecting nuts and “O” ring seat shall be applied with several drops of refrigerant oil ahead. ·When the mounting pieces are screwed or unscrewed, two wrenches are needed, one for turning, and the other for bearing. ·According to the following technical requirements, tighten the connecting nut. The tightening torque of the connecting nut: 8mm pipe: 13N·m 14.5mm pipe: 32N·m 1. Check and adjustment of air conditioner idle prior to making check to the idle, be sure to following the aspects below: ·Wires, fuel hoses and ignition must be firmly connected with the exhaust control system.

·If the accelerator cable wobbles, it means that it is not tightened. ·The ignition timing shall comply with the specification. ·Apart from the ignition system, all the electric loading shall be closed. Notice: Prior to starting the engine, put the gear shift operating rod in neutral, and then adjust the parking brake and stop the driving wheel. 1) Heat the engine to the normal working temperature 2) Calibrate the rev counter 3) Check to make sure the idle complies with the specification. Engine idle (air conditioner shut down):

1000±50rpm

If the engine idle value is not within the specified value, refer to the fault repair in Chapter Ⅲ. 4) Turn on the switches of the air conditioner and fan. 5) Check to make sure the idle is up to the specification. Engine idle (air conditioner opened): 1100±50rpm If the engine idle is not within the specified value, check the air conditioner vacuum control valve and relevant pipes and hoses. 2. Pressure switch Check 1) When the air conditioning system is filled with adequate refrigerant and the air conditioning system (compressor) is working, check if the switch can conduct at normal temperature. In these two cases, all the switches shall be turned on. 2) When pressure is within the specified range below, the switch shall not be turned on.

Pressure at high-pressure side

High- and low-voltage switch

200kPa or below

Not turned on

3200kPa or above

Not turned on

Tightening torque of pressure switch: 11N.m 1. Air conditioner condenser assembly 2. Air conditioner condenser fan

3. Check on air conditioner condenser Check the following conditions ·Is there leak, stoppage and damage in the condenser radiator shutter? ·Is there leak in the condenser assembly parts? The blocked radiator shutter must be washed with water and then dried by compressed air. Notice: Be careful not to damage the condenser radiator shutter. If the condenser radiator shutter is bent, straighten it with a screwdriver or pliers; if the fittings or pipes leak, repair them or change the condenser. 4. Check on air conditioner condenser fan motor Check if there is continuity between the two terminals. If they are in continuity, make the next check; if not, change them.

1. Air conditioner condenser fan motor plug connector

Connect the battery to the air conditioner condenser fan motor, and then check if the condenser fan motor can work steadily, as shown in the right figure. reference current: 5.8~7.2A at 12V. 5. Check on air conditioner condenser fan relay Check the resistance between every two terminals in the following table. Resistance between terminals “A” and “B”:  (infinite) Resistance between terminals “C” and “D”: 80~100Ω at 20℃(68℉).

Condenser fan relay

If the inspection result comply with the requirements, make the next check; if not, change it. Given a voltage of DC 12V between terminals ―C‖ and ―D‖, check if there is continuity between terminals ―A‖ and ―B‖. If there are defects founded, change it. 6. Overhead evaporator assembly Disassembly 1) Remove the battery negative wire. 2) Recovering the refrigerant by recovery plant and recycle unit shall follow the requirements of the manual. Be sure to measure the compressor oil that is discharged and then refill the system with equal amount of compressor oil. 3) Remove the left and right covers of the overhead evaporator.

4) Remove the joint of the overhead evaporator assembly. 5) Remove the compressor intake pipe and dryer exhaust pipe from the overhead evaporator assembly. Notice: Remove the pipes mentioned above and cover the opened joints to avoid moisture and dust entering the evaporator. 6) Remove the mounting bolts and screws and then remove the overhead evaporator assembly. Assembly 1) The overhead evaporator assembly shall be assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly. 2) Vacuate the air conditioning system according to the steps set forth above and then refill refrigerant in the system. Disassembly and reassembly Refer to the figure below when the overhead evaporator assembly is reassembled after disassembly.

Check

1. Evaporator 2. Fan motor 3. Thermal resistor 4. Air conditioner and fan switches 5. Expansion valve 6. Fan resistor

Fan motor Check if the terminals are in continuity. If there are in continuity, make the next check. If not, change them

Connect the battery to the fan motor as shown in the figure, and then check if the fan motor can work normally. Reference current: 4.8~6.0A at 12V. Evaporator Check the following conditions: ·Is there leak, stoppage and damage in the evaporator radiator shutter? ·Is there leak in the evaporator fittings. The blocked evaporator radiator shutter must be washed with water and then dried by compressed air. Notice: ·Be careful not to damage the evaporator radiator shutter. If the evaporator radiator shutter is bent, straighten it with a screwdriver or pliers; if the fittings or pipes leak, repair them or change the condenser.

1. Evaporator

·The thermal resistor, if removed, shall be reinstall on the original position. Air conditioner and fan switches 1) Remove the battery negative wire. 2) Remove the overhead evaporator assembly case. 3) Remove the air conditioner and fan switch connectors, and the remove the air conditioner and fan switches. 4) Check if every two terminals of the air conditioner and fan switches are in correct continuity by an ohmmeter. Position

―A‖

―B‖

―C‖

Off

○

Low

○

○

Intermediate

○

○

○

High

○

○

○

―D‖

If the air conditioner and fan switches are not on, change them. Fan motor resistance Check the resistance between every terminals as shown in the table below.

Terminal-terminal

Resistance (Ω)

―A‖—―B‖

1.6~1.8

―A‖—―C‖

2.8~3.0 1. Resistor plug connector

―B‖—―C‖

1.1~1.3

If the inspection result is not within the range as specified in the table, change the fan motor and resistor. Expansion valve Refer to the ―Removal of faults by manifold pressure‖ (procedure) in the chapter. 7. In-car check on air conditioner compressor

Expansion valve

The fault of compressor includes the following three classifications: air leakage, noise and underpressure. In most cases, compressor air leakage is caused by the shaft seal. Checking air leakage usually makes use of leak detector. If only little oil leaks from the shaft seal, it is unnecessary to change the seal, for it is designed to allow little oil leakage for the purpose of lubrication. Thus the shaft seal shall be changed only when the oil leakage is great or there is air leakage by gas detector. Troubles

Noise in compressor

Possible causes

Troubleshooting

·Rotary valve failure

Change

·Bearing valve failure

Change

·Cylinder or shaft failure

Change

·Bearing failure

Change

·Clutch disc damage

Change

·Sealing gasket damage

Change

·Leaf spring valve failure

Change

·Bearing valve is locked so that the cylinder and/shaft and leaf spring valve is locked

Change

·Magnetic clutch jammed.

Change

·Due to inadequate oil, the revolving parts are jammed.

Change

·Shaft seals damage

Change

Noise in magnetic clutch

Inadequate cold air

No rotation

Oil or liquid leakage

· ―O‖ ring damage

Disassembly and assembly Refer to the figure below for disassembly and assembly of air conditioner compressor. After assembly, check and adjust the tension of the driving belt. Refer or ―Check on air conditioner compressor driving belt) Check ·Check if the pressure plate and rotor are worn or immersed in oil. Check if the clutch bearing has noise, wear or grease leak. ·Measure the resistance of stator coil at 20℃. Standard resistance: 2.9~3.8Ω If the measured resistance value is not within the specified range above, change the coil. 8. Charging of Compressor oil When the air conditioner parts is replaced with the new parts, conjecture the quantity of the oil in every part and then replenish the oil of the same quantity. Compressor oil type: RS20 Charging of refrigerant It may be inevitable to replenish refrigerant even if no part is changed due to disassembly and assembly of engine or other reasons, and the charging of engine oil is unnecessary. When the compressor is changed As the compressor oil is packaged in every new compressor according to the air conditioner circulation, it is necessary to discharge the compressor oil when it is replaced with a new one. The discharge amount shall be calculated as follows: “C”= “D”-“E” “C”: Discharged oil amount “D”: Amount of oil packaged in the new compressor “A” “E”: Amount of oil left in the removed compressor “B” When other parts are changed: Changed parts

Compressor oil amount

Evaporator

25cc

Condenser

15cc

Reservoir/ dryer

20cc

1. New compressor 2. Removed compressor 3. Excess oil

Hose

10cc (each)

Pipe

10cc (each)

Ⅵ. Performance test After all the repair is done, make sure to follow the procedure below to carry out performance test for the air conditioning system. Procedure 1) Connect the high- and low-pressure compensation hoses of the manifold pressure gauge to the compressor pipe fittings. 2) Let the engine run and remain at the speed of 1,500rpm. 3) Set the air conditioner and fan switch to the ―high‖ position. 4) Keep all the air conditioner windows and doors open. 5) Insert a dry bulb thermometer into the cold air outlet and fit a hygrometer (dry bulb thermometer) close to the evaporator air inlet.

1. Thermometer 2. Hygrometer

6) The reading of high pressure gauge shall be within the specified pressure range. Reading of high pressure gauge: 1.4~1.6Mpa 7) The reading of the dry bulb thermometer at the air inlet shall be within 25~35℃. Make adjustment to the air conditioning system to make its high and low pressure and thermometer in the stable state. How to read standard performance curve (figure) 1) Read the air humidity reading at the air inlet and get the relative humidity from the air humidity chart (see the figure below) 2) Measure the dry-bulb temperature at the cold air outlet and then find the temperature difference of the inlet and outlet. 3) Check the relation between the relative humidity and the temperature difference with the curve chart. The difference 17℃(62.5℉) and 60% relative humidity are the example. If their junction falls within the region between the two lines, the cooling performance is satisfactory and suitable. How to read relative humidity (℃) Measure the wet-bulb temperature and dry-bulb temperature of the hygrometer at the evaporator air inlet, and read the relative humidity curve intersecting with it according to the temperature line below. For example: If the dry-bulb temperature is 25℃ and the wet-bulb temperature is 19.5℃, the relative humidity is 60%.

Temperature difference of the inlet and outlet

Relative humidity (%)

Wet-bulb temperature (℃)

Relative humidity (%)

Dry-bulb temperature (℃)

Chapter Ⅸ Electrical system Section Ⅰ Power supply system Ⅰ. General The car‘s power supply system is composed of battery, generator (three-phase AC generator), rectifier (three-phase AC full-wave rectifier), voltage regulator (built-in type) and charge lamp. The care is equipped with 12V DC power supply for its electrical equipment. 1. Battery

In the electrical system, the battery has three major functions. ·It is a power supply for starting the engine. ·It can function as voltage stabilizer for the electrical system. ·It can provide electrical energy with the generator in a limited timeframe when the electrical load exceeds the generator output. The types of battery installed in cars are as follows.

Rated power Electrolyte specific gravity

6-QW-45

12V 45Ah

1.28 in full charge at 20oC

Battery Mounting bracket and pressure plate The battery mounting bracket shall in good condition so that it can secure the battery and keep it level. Prior to installing the battery, the battery mounting bracket and pressure clamp shall be clean without corrosion, and the bracket shall not have any part in it. To avoid the battering swinging in the bracket, the pressure bolt shall be tightened appropriately, but not too tightly. Electrolyte freezing 。The electrolyte freezing point depends on its specific gravity. As the freezing will damage the battery, it can be protected against freezing by full charge. If the battery accidentally freezes, it can be charged after thawed. Sulfation If the battery is kept a long time in discharge condition, the lead sulfate will become hard crystal, which will be difficult to translate into active material. ―Sulfation‖ means the result and process of reaction. The battery of this sort can restore to the available mode by the charging method of devulcanization, but the volume will be lower than before. Battery maintenance Notice: the charging current value of the maintenance free battery shall be selected according to the factory requirements Warning: Pay attention to safety in using and changing maintenance free battery. It is better to wear glasses in the face of battery. The battery shall be kept away from flame and spark source to avoid explosion and personal injury accordingly. Inspection method of technical condition of maintenance free battery Method of observing charge indicator

The charge indicator (electrolyte densimeter magic eye) equipped in the maintenance free battery can indicate the charging condition of the battery. As shown in the figure below, the straight tube under the charge indicator is inserted into the electrolyte from the battery top. There is a small green ball in the indicator. When the electrolyte density is higher than 1.265g/cm3, or the state of charge is above 65%, the small ball will float up and the indicator turns green; when the state of charge is below 65%, the small ball sinks, and the indicator turns black. If the electrolyte is lower than the limit, the indicator will turn colorless and transparent, which means the electrolyte has dropped to the limit and the battery shall be scrapped. Thus, it can judge the technical condition of the battery by observing the indication of the charge indictor. ① If the charge indicator is green, it means the battery is in good condition, and voltage measurement can be made to further judge the technical Charging degree lower than 65% condition of the battery. Charging degree higher than 65% Electrolyte level lower than limit ② If the charge indicator is green, but the starting appears to be weak or costs too much time, the battery shall be charged. ③ If the charge indicator is black, it means the battery is in serious power shortage, and shall be charged immediately. ④ If the charge indicator shows colorless and transparent light spot (pale yellow for some battery), it means the electrolyte level is too low. If the starting is Charge indicator schematic diagram weak when it is connected to the starter, the battery shall be changed, or the causes for the low level shall be figured out. The causes for low level may be cracks in the case of serious overcharge. If it is overcharge, the charging system shall be checked. Method of measuring battery terminal voltage ① Charge the battery fully; connect the carbon pile tester between the positive and negative electrodes as adjustable load; adjust the load current to the specified value, and then discharge continuously for 15s. ② Measure the batter terminal voltage. If the terminal voltage is above 9.6V, it means the battery is in good technical condition and can continue using after charged; if the terminal voltage is below 9.6V, it means the technical condition deteriorates and it cannot be used any more. The test above is carried out at the ambient temperature of 21oC. The allowable value at different temperatures is as follows: The load current shall be as the factory setting when the battery terminal voltage is measured.

Electrolyte temperature (℃)

Allowable voltage (V)

Electrolyte temperature (℃)

Allowable voltage (V)

Electrolyte temperature (℃)

Allowable voltage (V)

21

9.6

-1

9.1

-18

8.5

10

9.4

-9.5

8.8