Sherlock Amigurumi Pattern

Crocheted Consulting Detective By Vilonal

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This pattern is for private use only! Please don’t try to sell it and don’t sell Sherlock. Don’t repost this pattern or a part of it anywhere without asking me (instead feel free to link to it). I’d also appreciate if you didn’t use this pattern or a part of it as a base for a doll/pattern you’re going to make for selling. Thank you! Sherlock of course belongs to BBC.

Notice that Sherlock can’t actually stand on his own, the photo on the right was taken after struggling some time trying to balance him.

Materials: Yarns     

peach (or whatever colour you prefer for skin) black dark grey purple dark brown

Small amount of red thread 2 safety eyes Small piece of blue fabric for the scarf (I used felt) Stuffing

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Abbreviations:         

ch = chain sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK) st = stitch ss = slip stitch hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK) dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK) tr = treble crochet (US), double treble crochet (UK) sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together yoh = yarn over the hook

The number of stitches has been written in brackets at the end of each row. I usually start by using a magic ring but instead of that you can ch 2 and work the stitches in the first ch. Please keep in mind English is not my native. And feel free to inform me of any mistakes you may notice in the pattern and I’ll try to correct them :) Let’s start!

Before doing anything else… Sherlock’s curly hair is a really big part of his figure so you’re going to need some curly yarn for it. It’s simple: just crochet something with the (dark brown) yarn you’re going to use for the hair (I usually crochet circle), wet it thoroughly and let it dry. When unravelling the crochet, the yarn will have great curls. The tighter you make the crochet, the smaller the curls will be. I preferred to crochet the circle really loose for Sherlock’s hair. Be extra careful that you don’t hook through the yarn so that the unravelling would be easier. I put this first so that the yarn for the hair will be ready when you need it, it needs to dry completely or the curls won’t keep their shape. But before doing this, remember to check that your yarn doesn’t suffer when getting wet (I’m no expert when it comes to yarn materials so I don’t know if this works fine with all kind of yarns, what I used is 85% wool and 15% polyamid).

Head and body peach yarn, place the eyes between rows 8 and 9, make sure you switch the yarns on the backside of the body (not on the same side where you placed the eyes) Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6) Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12) Row 3: [sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st] 6 times (18) Row 4: [sc in the next 2 st, 2 sc in the next st] 6 times (24) Row 5: sc in each st around (24) Row 6: [sc in the next 3 st, 2 sc in the next st] 6 times (30) Row 7-11 (5 rounds): sc in each st around (30) Row 12: [sc in the next 3 st, sc2tog] 6 times (24) Row 13: sc in each st around (24) Row 14: [sc in the next 2 st, sc2tog] 6 times (18)

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Row 15: [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times (12) Row 16: sc2tog 7 times (5) Row 17: sc in each st around (5) switch to purple yarn Row 18: 2 sc in each st around (10) Row 19: [sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st] 5 times (15) Row 20: sc in each st around (15) Row 21: [sc in the next 2 st, 2 sc in the next st] 5 times (20) Row 22-23 (2 rounds): sc in each st around (20) Row 24: [sc in the next 3 st, 2 sc in the next st] 5 times (25) Row 25-27 (3 rounds): sc in each st around (25) switch to black yarn Row 28-30 (3 rounds): sc in each st around (25) Row 31-32 (2 rounds): sc2tog, repeat until the hole is small enough to be sewn shut, finish off and weave in the tail

Ears (make two) What you’re going to do now is to work the ears right onto the head. Decide a good place for the ear. Hook in the right spot, yoh, pull through, yoh, pull through the loop, do sc in the same spot, do sc in the next 3 spots too, ch 1, turn, sc in the 4 st, finish off and weave in the tails. Do the other ear onto the other side of the head. Notice that the example pictures aren’t of Sherlock’s head.

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Legs (make two) black yarn, leave a long tail at the start and keep it on the outside, you’re going to need it to sew the leg onto the body Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6) Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12) Row 3-5 (3 rounds): sc in each st around (12) Row 6: sc2tog, sc in the next 10 st (11) Row 7: sc in each st around (11) Row 8: sc2tog, sc in the next 9 st (10) Row 9: sc in each st around (10) Row 10: sc2tog, sc in the next 8 st (9) Row 11: sc in each st around (9) Row 12: sc2tog, sc in the next 7 st (8) Row 13: sc in each st around (8) Row 14: sc2tog, sc in the next 6 st (7) Row 15: sc in the next 3 st, ch 1, turn Row 16: 2 sc in the 1st st, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, ch 1, turn Row 17: sc in those 5 st Next you start doing the foot. Check the drawing below, it might be more understandable than the verbal instructions.

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Row 18: Do sc between the rows 17 and 16 and then another sc between the rows 16 and 15. The next are the left stitches from the row 14. Do sc, sc2tog and sc. Again do sc between the rows 2 times. Next you have the 5 stitches from the row 17. Do sc in the back loop of each of them. (12)

Row 19-21 (3 rounds): sc in each st around (12) Row 22: sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in the next 3 st (10) sc in the next st

Next you’re going to crochet the foot shut, so finish the stuffing during this part (legs should be stuffed quite firmly so that the character can stand with them). Flatten the foot so that there are 5 st on the instep and 5 st on the sole. Hook through the next st and the one opposite it (see the pictures below). Do sc. Do sc also in the other 4 pairs crocheting the foot shut. Finish off and weave in the end. Sew the legs onto the body.

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Arms (make two) peach yarn Row 1: ch 2, work 4 sc into the first ch (4) Row 2: [2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 2 times (6) Row 3-4 (2 rounds): sc in each st around (6) switch to purple yarn Row 5-6 (2 rounds): sc in each st around (6) Row 7: 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 5 st (7) Row 8-9 (2 rounds): sc in each st around (7) Row 10: 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 6 st (8) Row 11-14 (4 rounds): sc in each st around (8) Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing but don’t sew the arms onto the body just yet. Stuff the tip of the arm firmly and closer to the shoulder only slightly.

Coat dark grey yarn ch 31 Row 1: miss first ch from the hook, sc in the next 30 ch, ch 1, turn Row 2-15 (14 rounds): sc in the 30 st, ch 1, turn Row 16: sc in the next 10 st, skip the next 2 st and do a sc in the 3rd st (but keep it tight so that it makes a little crease), sc in the next st, skip the next 2 st and sc in the 3rd st (again, keep it tight), sc in the next st, skip the next 2 st and sc in the 3rd st (tight!), sc in the next 9 st, ch 1, turn Row 17-20 (4 rounds): sc in the 24 st, ch 1, turn Row 21-22 (2 rounds): sc in the next 3 st, ch 1, turn Row 23: miss the first st, sc in the next 2 st, ch 1, turn 7

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Row 24: sc in the 2 st Finish off and weave in the ends. The crochet should now look something like in the picture below. It may shrivel a bit at the corners (and that’s why my fingers are so annoyingly in the photo). If it still does that after you’ve crocheted the collar, you can try ironing it. Just remember to check the ironing instructions for the yarn you use.

Hook into the 5th st from the part you just made (see the picture below).

Row 1: yoh, pull through the st, yoh, pull through the loop. Do sc in the same st. Do sc in the next 9 st, ch 1, turn Row 2: sc2tog, sc in the next 6 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn Row 3: sc2tog, sc in the next 4 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn Row 4: sc2tog, sc in the next 2 st, sc2tog Finish off and weave in the ends. Hook into the other end of the original row 20 (see the picture below).

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Row 1: yoh, pull through the st, yoh, pull through the loop. Do sc in the same st. Do sc in the next 2 st, ch 1, turn Row 2: sc in the 3 st, ch 1, turn Row 3: miss the first st, sc in the next 2 st, ch 1, turn Row 4: sc in the 2 st, ch 1, turn

Row 5: sc in the 2 st, ch 3, join to the part on the other side of the gap and do sc in the 4 st, ch 3, join to the part on the other side of the gap and do sc in the 2 st, ch 1, turn Row 6: sc in the 2 st, sc in the 3 ch, sc in the 4 st, sc in the 3 ch, sc in the 2 st Finish off and weave in the ends.

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Now, before doing the collar or the sleeves, use the coat to check the right places for the arms. Sew the arms onto those spots.

Collar dark grey yarn Start working from the right bottom corner. On the right and left edges work the stitches between every row. For the sake of making the pattern easier to write and read, I call those spots between rows also stitches. There are 25 of these “stitches” on the right and left edges, the first one being between rows 1 and 2, the last one between rows 25 and 26 yoh, pull through the st, yoh, pull through the loop, sc in the same st, sc in the next 11 st, hdc in the next 5 st, dc in the next 3 st, tr in the next st, ch 3, ss in the next 2 st, ch 3, tr in the next st, 2 dc in the next st 10

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You are now at the right upper corner. Do dc in all 14 st on the upper edge.

Start doing the left edge by working the stitches between the rows again (making the first ones between rows 25 and 26). 2 dc in the next st, tr in the next st, ch 3, ss in the next 2 st, ch 3, tr in the next st, dc in the next 3 st, hdc in the next 5 st, sc in the next 12 st Finish off and weave in the tails.

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Sleeves (make two) dark grey yarn ch 12, ss to join Row 1: sc in each ch around (12) Row 2-7 (6 rounds): sc in each st around (12) Row 8: sc in each st around, ch 1, turn Row 9: sc in the next 8 st, ch 1, turn Row 10: sc2tog, sc in the next 4 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 12

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Row 11: sc2tog, sc in the next 2 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn Row 12: sc in the 4 st Finish off and leave a long tail. Sew the sleeve onto the edge of the armhole. The picture below shows the way the sleeve should be attached, the same coloured parts joined together.

Belt and buttonhole dark grey yarn ch 8, miss the first ch from the hook, sc in the next 6 ch, 3 sc in the next ch do the next sc in the original 2nd ch, sc also in the next 5 st, 3 sc in the next st (the original 7th ch), ss in the next st Finish off and leave a long tail

Sew the belt on the back side of the coat, just above the creases. Sew a few stitches with the black yarn to do the buttons. Of course you can also use actual buttons for this.

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Sew a couple stitches with red thread on the collar to mark the buttonhole. The ends can be hidden on the backside of the collar.

Hair (curly) dark brown yarn This is how I tend to do hair for my amigurumis. You can try my way or some other, some pretty good tutorials can be found by googling. Use whatever method suits you best.

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These pictures are just to show the way I sew a row of hair. I usually don’t start in the middle but by doing the hairline on the forehead first and then moving row by row to the back of the head. This is a little more difficult with the curly yarn but be patient and the result will be worth it :) Cut a long length of yarn. Thread it into a needle.

Make sure both ends are inside the loop and then tighten. Time to make the next one in the next stitch.

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Keep the loop (the one around the finger in the picture above) quite long, at least longer than you think the character’s hair is. They don’t all have to be exactly the same length as you are going to cut them anyway. It’s better to make the hair too long than too short, you can always cut it afterwards.

Tighten again.

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Do the same to the next stitches too. The row looks then something like this:

Do the other rows too so that the head is full of hair. When that is done, it’s time for a haircut. I recommend watching reference pictures while doing this since the hair is ultimately what makes your doll look like Sherlock. Finally you may need to sew some stitches to keep the hair in the right place.

Finally Cut a piece of blue fabric for the scarf and put it around Sherlock’s neck. Put the coat on him and you’re ready! I hope you found my pattern useful and understandable. If you’ve got any questions feel free to message me (on Ravelry, Tumblr or Deviantart). Feedback is always welcome and I’d also be really happy to see your Sherlock :)

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