Sewing sop

8.3 Objective: Producing an optimum quality product, setting the process as a benchmark for the whole garment manufacturing industry.

Floor operations are divided in to 3 parts

8.4 Pre sewing operations: Pre sewing operation includes all the operations, which are required to be executed in order to make the sewing operation flawless and make the work flow smooth.

8.4.1 Production planning Production plan is crucial for the effective planning of resources in order to execute

production

efficiently. Production planning includes the allocation of the job to use the resources available to maximum extent.

To achieve the desired level of productivity, processes should be set as per the following guidelines given by Industrial Engineering Department

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SMV break down for the style

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Operator allocation

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Machine allocation

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Tech layout (Attachments, folders, machines and other resources)

Any requisition for work aids and machines should reach Maintenance department before 2 days. And arrangements should be made 1 day prior to the production.

To carry out Bulk production following information should be referred 

Style file (including PP meeting comments)

Style file and PP sample must reach the production floor at least before 2 days. 

Approved PP Sample received.

Buyer approved PP sample should accompany the Style file. Every production line must contain 1 approved sample hanging in front of line. Buyer comments sheet should be hanged with the sample. It should contain the layout of the line to be set. PP comment sheet, Description of critical points.

In any case production must not be started without the PP sample, style file and production hand over meeting.

8.4.2 Cutting received (Line feeding) 

Cut panels must be received from the cutting department at least 1 day prior to the production.

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Cut panels must be received only when all the cut parts are available.

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Random checking of bundles must be done to ensure the proper formation of bundle and cut pieces.

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Lay plan and bundle number sheet must accompany the cutting.

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Feeding helper must keep the record of all the cutting received and recut parts (Annexure 38).

8.4.3 Trims receiving and issuing procedures Trims must be issued according to the work order and cut plan received by the production. In order to prevent any miscommunication the trims should be issued according to the cut plan.

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Trims should be issued 1 day prior to the production.

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Trims receiving and issuing records should be maintained.

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It must be ensured that all the trims are available before starting bulk production.

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In case of, Short or absence of any trim should be resolved by the production Manager and take the necessary action to resume the production.

8.5 Sewing operations Quality garments are made up through a sequence of operations, which themselves have, specific and defined levels of quality. The following are individual areas, which affect end quality and the systems that need to be put in place to control these areas. These key areas will not only affect quality standards, but also will also impact on delivery schedules and overall costs.

All the template used in production line should be duly signed by the technical dept. + QC Template: template example(metal sheet) a. Collar run stitch marking (Metal sheet) b.Collar assemble templete c.Pocket marking d.Button down marking e.Pocket pressing

No marking should be used for button holes. Button attach marking should be collar down. Each line should have two checkers for parts and one for assembly. Work instruction should be displayed at all work stations.

8.5.1 Machine Repair & Maintenance Each factory must ensure that they keep proper machine repair records (Annexure 39).A full time team of mechanics must be employed and have a well-stocked and organized workshop. Machine repair records must exist for each machine and the summary record are kept in the workshop. The mechanic and head mechanic must sign it each time that work is carried out. It is also very important that when new operators start, they are in fact trained properly on not only the basic workings of the machine’s but daily care procedures as well. All machines must be cleaned at least twice a day, needle change and broken needle procedures must be clearly understood. A daily routine must be set up for all operators. Awareness through good training procedures is the key to ensuring that a level of understanding exists. Operators need to react to such problems even if they do not know

how to fix them. At the end of the day, you can always deal with reaction. No reaction on the other hand means that issues and problems will continue.

8.5.2 Needle policy The following procedures are particularly designed for Kids garment production but can also be translated for other products such as knitted and embroidered fabrics and components where needle are used in production.

Pins that must be used in the laying-up of fabric must be controlled. No other uses of pins in cutting, assembly, inspection or any other operation where garments or components are handled are allowed. Pins must, not secure reels of elastic, lace, bindings etc. They must be eliminated and replaced by tape. Neither pins nor staples must be used in any part of the factory for other uses such as securing documents, tickets, pay packets or notice boards.

The procedure 

No operator shall be in possession of any needles other than those in the machine being operated, or that required for the hand operation being performed.

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In some cases it may be necessary for a worker undertaking handwork to have more than one needle in their possession. In these cases it should be recorded how many needles are issued to each worker, these must be accounted for at the end of each shift.

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All spare needles shall be held by a supervisor in a secure, locked location.

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Only the supervisor shall issue needles to operators.

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Mechanics must not leave spare needles with a machine after servicing.

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If a needle needs replacing through wear the supervisor will issue a new needle and retain the old one for safe disposal. Planned regular replacement is recommended.

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Worn needles must be disposed of into sealed containers away from the factory floor and at intervals securely disposed of to waste.

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If a needle breaks all parts must be looked for. Broken needle fragments must be mounted with clear adhesive tape on a chart and signed by the line/floor supervisor. Records (Annexure 40)

must be kept of needle breakages by machine type, needle size, operation etc. to establish trends. All record sheets must be kept for a minimum of 18 months.

When all parts are found a new needle can be issued. 8.5.3 Label policy The following Label policy must be adhered to ensure that correctly labelled -products are being manufactured. A system for rigid control and issuing of labels is essential.

The procedure

1. On receipt of the contract, check label information ensure fabric composition, care instructions and all necessary safety instructions are correct. This must also includes legal responsibilities for character merchandise.

2. All deliveries of labels must be quarantined and checked against the contract before being released to trim stores. This inspection should include random checks for mixed labels within a single box. It is vital to ensure that this responsibility is given to the trim store manager.

3. The quantity of labels issued to the production line must correspond with the cutting room documents and be controlled by the trim stores supervisor.

4. Where labels are date coded, the oldest must be picked first.

5. Only the correct number of labels must be issued to the line. This must be no more than the current bundle size.

6. Spare labels must not be kept by the operator. Any labels not required must be collected and returned to the trim store.

7. Any additional label requirements must be authorised by the trim store supervisor e.g. re-makes or repairs.

8. Label insertion must be an integral part of the product. If labels are required after dyeing, they must be over-locked to the seam and not lock stitched.

9. Checking of sew-in labels must be included in end of line inspections.

10. At the final stage of garment inspection, prior to dispatch, all garment labels must be checked against the UPC tickets and hanger/ box-end labels.

11. It is also necessary to check outer box labels against the actual contents prior to sealing of box.

8.5.4 In Line Process Controls The importance of first time quality is the key, in today’s changing business environment. The ability to turn around quality goods in a short span of time is essential. With the correct procedures and correct management attitude, this can be achieved, very successfully.

Operation specifications (Annexure 41) play a key part in the successful implementation of new styles, ensuring that we get quality levels right first time and not after three or four days of sewing. Each operation that is set up must have a specification on the machine, which includes details such as; 

Machine type.

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Needle and Stitch size.

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Seam width.

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Thread size and quality.

A detailed description of the operation either by a detailed drawing or by attaching a mock ups (visual standard). They must be signed by the operator, QC, supervisor to confirm that they fully understand the requirements. This may seem like a lot of additional work but the advantages gained from doing this are evident and immediate.

A complete understanding of the requirements and standardization across additional machines doing the same operation. Immediate understanding by new operators who have to step in the case of absenteeism. The same would also apply to in line Q.C.’s. Immediate reference for all operations at each needlepoint.

8.5.5 Quality performance sheets To achieve pre determined productivity levels the level of quality must firstly be defined and achieved before any operator is issued a target. To achieve the optimum quality level. 

A agreed and signed the Job Specification , each operator must be trained until the supervisor/technician is satisfied with his/her out going quality.

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There must be a visible and dedicated inline QC for all machines in a line.

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Each operator must be checked 4 times a day using a simple, traffic light system and inspecting no more than 10 pieces each time with fixed quantity.

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In-line QC and Line supervisor must sign reports daily.

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The monthly summary must be kept at the machine at all times until the end of the month. After the month is over they can be put into the operator’s performance file.

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It is not up to the Inline QC to fix the problem but to find the problem. Fixing the problem is the responsibility of the operator, supervisor and technician. Not only does this act as a control tool but it also acts as a database recording which operation the operator has been doing and which one they are best at. Therefore in time it will build up a historic data of individual’s strong and weak operations.

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It is important for management to see first time quality as an essential cost factor. If operations are not set up properly, and work produced continues to be bad then the additional costs through repairs, seconds, and loss in productivity, short shipments and delays can be substantial.

8.5.6 Traffic Light Procedures QC inspects 10 garments of an operator.

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No defects- mark card GREEN to go to next operator.

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ONE defect - mark card YELLOW, circle defect type# 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 or 8. Inform and show operator fault. Move to next operator.

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TWO defects mark card RED, THREE defects mark card BLACK, circle Defect type# 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 or 8.

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Inform and show SUPERVISOR of faults.

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SUPERVISOR must stay with operator until 20 consecutive (for RED), 30 consecutive (for BLACK) garments/parts/operation pass.

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SUPERVISOR initial (Signature) at the RED/BLACK to indicate 20/30 garments have passed consecutively.

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If an operator has consecutive inspection RED, FLOOR MANAGER must be informed to re-train the operator or take necessary follow up actions. Please indicate this by using BLACK.

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If a high defective rate is found on one particular operation in any one hour at 100% END LINE inspection, QC must inform LINE SUPERVISOR immediately and not wait until the end of the day.

This system will work very well in reducing repair levels on hourly, daily basis if used properly. Proper communicating among different inspection stages on defects found and timely follow up actions is vital.

8.5.7 End line inspections All end line inspections tables must be set up as follows. 

There must be an approved an approved PP sample that has been checked by the merchandiser.

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Proper dedicated tables must be set up. It is unacceptable to have large tables with many inspectors. This will only lead to people talking to each other and losing focus on what they are supposed to be doing, or mixing up good and bad garments. One table one inspector.

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Lighting must be a minimum of 100-foot candles.

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Along with the approval sample, all relevant paperwork must be at the inspection table. This must include clear copies of PP sample comments, and a list of Key points to be checked, during the inspection.

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Each inspector must have a predefined inspection method. If we determine the method then through time the inspector will know what to inspect and in what sequence. That will allow them to focus on the overall garment quality and not think about what she has checked and what she hasn’t.

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The inside as well as the outside of the garments must be thoroughly checked. The method of inspection must be defined at the PP meeting

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If there are excessive threads then these must be marked as repairs to ensure that the problem is in fact rectified.

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Proper bins must set up to ensure that we are segregating good garments and bad garments (i.e. Sewing, stains and shading etc,).

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Hourly records must be kept, using the END LINE DAILY INSPECTION REPORT (Annexure 42). A repair in and out control is also included in the report, which will enable the supervisor to ensure that repairs are being repaired and returned, straight away.

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It is important for management to ensure that all reports are examined hourly to ensure that the necessary corrective action has taken place.

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Measurement methods must be established to ensure that all inspectors are in fact using the same method.

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Measurement sheets must be filed properly and must measure at least three pieces of every size in full, every day across all colors, per auditor.

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The only way to measure a garment is in fact with a tape measure. Under no circumstance must templates be used nor there be any marks on the table. Inspectors will only pull or push garments to meet specs in this case.