Sewing Book

April 4, 2018 | Author: Simona Molnar | Category: Seam (Sewing), Blouse, Quilt, Sewing, Clothing Industry
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A N N I E ’S

O N L I N E V I D E O

C L A S S E S

Learn to Make a Quilt From Start to Finish Instructor Nancy McNally

A art, pantone uncoated (below)

rate logo Logo next to stacked tagline Pantone uncoated (below)

Learn to Make a Quilt From Start to Finish Black (below)

InWhite this(below) online video class, you’ll learn: • How to choose the perfect fabrics for your quilt • Which quilting tools are your “best buys” • How to cut and piece each quilt block • How to get a perfect ¼-inch seam allowance every time

Minimum allowed sizes

This exclusive quilt project is included as part of the class curriculum

Pantone uncoated (below)

4 color process (below)

• Time-saving tips like chain piecing, marking, Logo alone 4 color process (below)

• How to assemble a quilt sandwich Black (below)

Crafts

QDV11 Learn to Make a Quilt From Start to Finish Black (below)

A P C R H

A P C R H

4 color process (below)

pinning and(below) more Pantone uncoated

C

AnniesOnlineClasses.com

White (below)

White (below)

Bric & Stones Quilt

ES00012

Stripped & Serged

Strip piecing takes on a different life when you do Design by Mara Alto it on the serger using the rolled edge stitch and seams that show on the right side as a decorative element. Choose a variety of coordinating cotton prints to create one-of-a-kind fabric for the blouse front and sleeves. Finished Size

Your size Technique

Rolled-edge strip piecing Materials

• Shirt pattern of your choice with a convertible (fold-back) rather than shirt-style collar • Assorted prints to total 11/2 yards for the serger strip-pieced shirt front and sleeves (see Note at right) • ½–1 yard printed sheer to coordinate with other fabrics for added visual interest • 11/4 yards coordinating print for shirt back, collar and front facings • 1/2 yard coordinating solid-color sheer for the flat ruffle at the sleeve and lower edge. • All-purpose thread to match fabrics • Tissue paper or pattern tracing cloth • Contrasting or matching color rayon embroidery thread for upper looper of serger • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler • Serger with rolled edge stitch • Basic sewing tools and equipment

Note: Purchase several different fabrics to create your own “stripes,” or purchase a fabric with a crosswise “striped” design that you can cut apart to re-engineer into a unique fabric for the shirt fronts. The back of the shirt shown was cut from the original fabric, and then the strips for the fronts and sleeves were cut from the fabric and rearranged with sheer strips. Cut t i n g

• Make any required fitting adjustments on the blouse pattern pieces before proceeding. • If the pattern you are using has a cuton facing, cut the facing from the front pattern piece and add 5/8-inchwide seam allowances to both cut edges to create new pattern pieces (Figure 1).

• To allow for the added length of the sheer ruffle at the sleeve lower edge, shorten the sleeve pattern 2 inches. Make sure there is a 1-inch-wide hem allowance included in the final length of the sleeve pattern piece. • Cut the shirt back, collar and facing pieces from the coordinating print. • From the coordinating sheer, cut a 5-inch-wide strip across the fabric width for the upper shoulder area of the shirt front and the sleeve cap. Cut a 3- or 4-inch-wide strip for the lower shirt front and matching area of the sleeves. • From the fabric(s) you’ve selected for the stripes, cut assorted strips in widths that vary from 11/2–41/2 inches. If your fabric is already striped, like the fabric used for the shirt shown, cut stripes following the pattern design lines if desired. A s s e m b ly

Figure 11 Figure Remove cut-on cut-on facing Remove facingand and add seam seam allowance. add allowance.

1. Cut a rectangle of tissue paper or pattern tracing cloth large enough to accommodate both front pattern pieces, plus at least 1 inch extra in length (Figure 2). Cut another rectangle the same length as the first and wide enough to accommodate two sleeves.

Copyright © 2008 DRG, 306 East Parr Road, Berne, IN 46711. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher.

Copyright © 2008 DRG, 306 East Parr Road, Berne, IN 46711. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher.

the top to the bottom of the panel, and always sew each seam with the upper strip of the pair facing you so the serging rolls in the same direction. After joining all the strips for the blouse fronts, press the seams toward the bottom edge of the panel (Figure 3).

shirt. Serge the layers together with a 3-thread overlock stitch, or machinestitch 1/4 inch from the raw edges and zigzag the seam edges together (Figure 5).

5"-wide printed sheer panel

1" Figure 2 Cut tissue large enough to accomodate 2 fronts with at least 1" extra length.

2. Using the rectangle for the shirt fronts, arrange the strips in a pleasing pattern beginning with the 5-inchwide sheer strip at the upper edge (shoulder area). Alternate prints and strip widths in a pleasing arrangement, adding the remaining sheer strip in the area below the bustline area. Trim the strips even with the short edges of the tissue rectangle and pin each one in place with a few pins across the width of the tissue. The last strip should overhang the bottom edge of the tissue by about an inch to allow for the rolled edge seam “take-up.” The more strips you use, the more take-up there will be. When you are happy with the arrangement, create an identical arrangement for the sleeves and pin to the tissue. 3. Adjust the serger for a rolled edge stitch with a stitch length of 2.5mm for a flexible rather than stiff rolled edge. Thread the upper looper with the decorative rayon thread. Use matching serger thread in the remaining looper(s) and the needle. Test the stitch on fabric scraps before you begin to sew, and adjust the stitch as needed for your fabrics and the desired finished look. 4. Place the strips with wrong sides facing and serge with the rolled edge. Always make sure that you work from

5

Press

/8"

/8 "

5

Figure 5 Sew sheer ruffle to lower edge of shirt.

Figure 3 Press rolled-edge seams toward bottom edge.

5. Fold the panel in half and cut two shirt fronts. 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the panel for the sleeves. 7. Assemble the shirt following the pattern guidesheet up to attaching the facings. Measure the lower raw edge of the shirt from front edge to front edge and record the measurement. 8. Using the lower edge measurement from step 7, cut a 6-inch-wide strip of the sheer solid for the shirt hem edge. Fold the strip in half with right sides facing and stitch 5/8 inch from the short ends. Trim the seams to 1/4 inch and turn right side out (Figure 4).

10. Turn up and press a 1-inch-wide hem (forming a “tuck” at the lower edge of the shirt. Stitch just inside the serging or along the straight stitching used to attach the flat ruffle to the shirt lower edge (Figure 6).

Figure 6 Turn up hem and stitch.

Figure 4 Fold sheer ruffle strip in half and stitch short ends. Trim to 1/4".

9. With raw edges even, pin the sheer strip to the lower edge of the

Copyright © 2008 DRG, 306 East Parr Road, Berne, IN 46711. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher.

11. Attach the collar as directed in the guidesheet and sew the front facings to the shirt front; the lower end of the facing will extend past the finished bottom edge of the shirt (Figure 7).

Facing

Facing extends 1" below finished hem edge.

Figure 7 Sew facings to shirt.

12. Trim the facing seam to 1/4 inch. Press the seam allowance toward the facing and understitch. Turn the facing to the inside and press, turning under the excess facing at the lower edge. Slipstitch the lower edge of the facing to the inside of the shirt. 13. Measure the lower edge of the sleeve and add 1/2 inch for seams. Cut two 6-inch-long strips of the sheer solid for the flat ruffle of the length just determined. Fold each strip in half crosswise with short ends aligned and

stitch 1/4 inch from the raw edges to make a circle. Press the seam to one side. Fold the ruffle circle in half with long raw edges aligned. With the seam in the ruffle at the sleeve underarm seam, pin a ruffle to the lower edge of each sleeve.

14. Sew the flat ruffle to each seam and hem the sleeves as you did for the lower edge of the jacket. 15. Make the buttonholes and sew buttons in place. 

Copyright © 2008 DRG, 306 East Parr Road, Berne, IN 46711. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher.

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