SERGING-FINE-FABRICS.pdf
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Sergi Fine
li B R R Y
Easy Guide to
Serging Fine Fabrics Fabrics Ktty Benton
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No book becomes a reli without he dedcated expertise of he pubishing sf The stf at The aunton Press has been enormously nd universly hepful. I woud like o hk hem a. But especialy I woud like o hank Eileen Hanson or her ery ath n me d devoon o his projec; M Chrsan for editing compex echnic prose and m g t readabe; nd Ruth Dobsevage for her aention o dei wordng and ayou. Al hree have my asng appreciaon for their paence humor d perseverce. Deepes hanks e aso due to the quick mind peasnt dsposition and never-ang accuracy o Eva KUi who sewed many o he sampes shon in he phoographs.
I The serger can be intimidating at rst glance. There it sits with all those dials, spindles, needles, and inner gears, like an ugly toad on your sewing table. But once you fall in love with it you will recognize it to be the true prince of he sewing room. My own love affair with sergers began when my children "outgrew me and I went back to school in mid-life to take on the challenge of expanding a satisJing home-sewing hobby into a career as a professional designer Par of my education was learning all about the specialized industrial machines. Some were sca monsters that clanked out buttonholes, some were intriguing puzzles such as the multi-needle shirring machine (with needles to thread!). But the one truly longed for at home was the overlock or merrow machine as it's still called in the indust) the facto staple that overcasts, trims, and stitches the seam all at once At the same time about ten years ago imported sewing machines hit the American homesewing market and caused such a sensation that home overlockers or sergers soon followed as companion machinesmuch as automatic dryers followed washing machines In the decade since, the creative ener found in home sewing workrooms has uncovered exciting new capabilities for the serger and triggered many added conveniences Why bother with a serger? Because its fast! With a serger, you can stitch trim, and overcast a seam in one step instead of three, and in less than half the time of a conventional sewing machine This remarkable machine cuts hours of precious sewing time from large and small projects and ill oen give you more professional results than a conventional sewing machine. Most people associate the serger with utilitarian knits and sportswear yet it has a much wider application. The beau of the serger is how it can handle ne fabrics. The rmness of the grip between presser foot and throat plate will help you control slippery fabrics such as lace and chion and the machine zips through tiny accurate seams in delicate fabrics making it ideal for laborintensive dressmaking chores such as making large circular hems on tiered skirts, and ne heirloom looks such as joining rows and rows of lace insertion for a christening dress
4
If you already own a serger, let me share my excitement and professional secrets with you to help you discover new ways of getting the most from your machine If you are still thinking about buying one, this guide based on years of personal experience and experimentation will help you decide which features and threading variations will best see your needs Each chapter in this book addresses progressive steps to mastering serging with ne fabrics, so whether you are a new or an experienced serger, you will be able to launch right into hands on techniques that you can adapt to your on projects You can go through the whole book for a complete course in ne serging, or, once having mastered the basics, you can skip ahead to the stitch treatments you can immediately apply to a garment Chapter 1 describes the advantages of a serger and how the pats w ork together to form stitches t explains initial threading and tension adjustments, as well as optional features and accessories Youll learn easy maintenance procedures and simple troubleshooting to keep your serger at peak performace Chapter 2 helps you to select compatible threads and needles for your fabri, prepare the fabric for stitching, and take advantage of helpful products and notions. In Chapter 3, you'll learn to master useful serger skills, including stating and nishing seams, and sewing cures, corners, bias areas, and circles Then youll learn basic seams, nishes, and hems for all pes of ne fabrics Chapter 4 covers more specialized applications so you ca produce elegant selfribbing for ne knits, add tailoring touches to crisp wovens, create festive detailing for special-occasion garments, and seam laces for delicate lingerie and heirloom treatments Four simple projects let you use your serging skills right away At the end of the book is a handy photo index that will help you to reiew, compare, and locate the nishes introduced in the main text This section will boost your creatii with the serger because you will see at a glance the various treatments you can use, from utili seaming to special decorative eects and monogramming Setting boxes tell you just how to thread and adjust your serger for the treatments shown in the photos You wil also see the decorative potential of fabrics, threads, and edgings and design them into your projects
Introduction
5
EASY GUIDE TO SERGNG FINE FRICS
Demys g te Serger
How a Serger Works Anmy Sg
Getting the Most fom Your Mache Opnl Fus
Getting Ready to Sew Inl dng S t g Sch Adjusng h Tnsns Adjusng h Cung dh Adjusng h Sch Lngh Hns Tubl-F Sng
Fabcs, Tread,d Noons
Selecting Fabrics Kns
Choosg ead Dcv ds
Selecg Needes
8 6 8 8 19
23
6 6 8
Basng Tec ques
32
P g Tpng Glu Bsng Scng
32
Other Hepl Products Bs Tc Fusbl d -Slubl Sblz
33 33 34
6
Sklls d Ses
Buildng Serger Ss Undestndng hee the ves ut Masteng hee he Needle Sews Manpulatng the Fabc n Specl Stuatons Seng Taut Machne Easng Hodng n Endng Ses Oesttchng at the St o a Se Oesttchng at e End o a Sea Sewng Elastc atheng
Seams, Fnishes and Hems Ses Sea Fnshes Hes
38 39 41
42 49 49 49
50 51 51 52
55
56
9 6 6
Usig Your Kowledge
Worng K s A Elegnt t Top
Tored Fnishes Tucng ead Accents Decoatve Ed Decoave Flatockng Decoave h g thout Fabc Te-Savng onstucton ds
Fesve De g Fncy Hes ce Applu atheed Rles Bas Tubng
Worng Delicae Fabrics sole nd Tap Pnts
Phoo Index Index
66 6 8 8 8 8 8 88 9
96
Demysting the Serger Laning hw th sg dis fm yu cnvntinal swing machin is th ky t hlping yu idnti its advantags v cnvntinal machins and its ptntial f fin swing Lik cvntinal swing machins sgs hav pss ft fd dgs lywhs stitch-lngth cntls thad cutts ft pdals pw cnnctins and lights. But thy hav n ins! And that mans n windng n unning ut f thad n spaghtti-mp tangls nath th fac in th in cas. Anth imptant diffnc is th fd mchanism Th intplay twn th sgs lng pss ft and th naw fd dg hlds faic s sculy that it fds vnly with much lss intntin than a cnvntinal machin quis Accuat fding ducs th liklihd f sttching and disttin s sams hav a unifm pfssinal appaanc F vyday utii swing th sgs fully nclsd sam nishs a much nat and m dual than cnvntinal machin nishs and thy dnt distt cud aas such as ias sams and nck facings. Yu can quickly and accuatly sam dlicat faics and ll thm int tiny hms caus th lng ft and naw fd dg kp tiny sam allwancs fm snagging in th fd dg Th sgs xil lp stitchs hav giv s sams a stng and dnt ak whn stssd sttchd in knits Yu can apply a stagging vai f utilitaian and dcativ stitchs t any faic fm gssam silk chiffns t study actin knits and t any task fm tiny him sams t fast lind hms f dapis Sgs vn chain thads withut faic (a handy way t mak lt and uttn lps) s yu can stat stitching withut placing th ndl xactly at th stating pint f th sam and yu can chain th faic at th nd f th sam withut tangling
How a Serger Works Sergers work on a very simple principle. Frst the knives mounted on the machine neatly trim the edge oj the jabric, then the needles and loopers overcast it with thread in a ptective casing
Aatom of a Serger Although there are many different models and makes of sergers, all have a shelf at the back of the square frame (on some models a convenient c a ng handle is built right into the frame) to hold spools or cones of thread on three four or ve spindles depending on the capabili of the model. A extension bar raises each thread above the spools allowing it to unwind evenly from the spool and feed smoothly into the prima thread gUides without tangling.
10
Demysti:ng the Serger
Front view of a serger Threads pass over the extension bar and feed through primary thread guides beore entering the tension wheels
To sets of color-coded thread gUides control the ow of thread from the spool to the needes. The rst (primary) set gUides the thread from the spool to the tension wheel. The seconda guides, on the front of the serger, lead the thread from the tension wheel into the needle or looper. Two knife blades trim the edge of the fabric as you stitch. In many models, the upper blade is mounted on a sha above the throat plate to the right of the needles The lower blade is housed in front of the loopers to the right of the feed dog on the throat plate As you stitch, the upper knife bade moves aongside the stationary lower blade in a scissors-like cutting action. The moving knife blade is usualy spring-mounted to maintain constant pressure against the stationary knife blade.
Upper and lower knife blades trim the fabric. (Presser foot removed for clarit
The uppe nie lade an e otated out o position hen you do not ant o im the ai o hen stithng penished edges suh as lae and on Sege eed dogs ae simila to those o onventional mahines u they have to sets o eeth ont and ea The teeth o the on eed dog gde the ai unde the toe o the pesse oot past he uppe and loe nives o tmming
S d do wo o (P oo mod o ly)
The loopes move a and oth simultaneously asting thead loops ove he uppe and loe suaes o he a that intelo a he timmed edge The loe loope positioned to the le and slighly elo the uppe loope in most mahines is theaded though the ension dial athest to the ight and moves a and oh om le to ight The uppe loope n most mahnes theaded though the tenson dial immediately to the le o the loe loope s loated ehind i nea the undeside o the hoat plate and needles The needles move up and don hough the ai as in onvenional mahines u sine the sege has no oins the needles smply anho he loope theads to eah side o the ai athe than nteo ih oin theads to om stithes When oh needles ae used the le needle anhos the uppe and loe thead loops on the seam line hile the ight needle ses an additonal saey seam hen eithe needle is used alone the unheaded needle is emoved and the sae seam is omitted)
T upp k bd b od ou o poo w o u dd
1
Demystiing the Sege
Upp nd low loop t td ov t top nd bottom uf of t fb Ndl no t loop. Et ndl my b movd to djut wdt of ttn (P foot movd fo lt
Stt fn t nto t tt bd uppot t loop ty fom (P foot movd fo lt
Stith ngers, set into the stith bed beneath eah needle, suppor the thread loops as they orm Loops overlo around the o right stth ngers hen the right needle is used alone The le stith nger supports ider loops hen the le needle is used alone and denes the sae seam hen both needles are used together A third or overlo, stith nger supports the loops as they interlo over the trimmed edge o the abri Ater the stithes have been seured by the needes, the rear eed dog teeth slide the stithes o the stith ngers
Gettig e Most from Your Mache Tere are seven variables that contrl the appearnce and function of the stitches and give the serger its extrordinary versatility.
Fabric: The weight and stretchabiliy of the fabric affect the appearance of the stitches (p. 26). Thread: Choose threads that are heavy, light, smooth, textured, utili, or decorative (p. 28). Thread tension: The degree of tension on the needle and looper threads wil dramatically change the look of the stitches (p 20). Numbers of threads: For varying eects and depending on your model all needes and loopers may be threaded, or seected needles and loopers may be e unthreaded (p.5). Stitch width: Use wider stich widths for more coverage, narrower for less. Stitch length: Use onger stich lenghs for less coverage, shorter lenghs for denser stiching (p. 22) Cutting width: Adjust the distance between the rimmed edge and the needles (p. 2 1 ) o make the overcast edges either lie at or roll into tiny hems.
THREADIN G OPTIONS The greatest derences am ong serger model s occur in threading options Fvethread modes are avalable wth three needles and two oopers or two needes and three oopers. Five-thread models can usuay adapt to four, three- and even twothread uses, but since fve-thread serging is most sutable for actve wear and semi- n dustria l uses t is beyond the scope of th s book
he phot o beow shows some of the d ierent looks you can ach ieve by chang ng the thread ng setup on the serger (see the chart below for particul ars). he top sampe n each color was sttched with the rol l hem settng yeldng a narrower sttch; the bottom sample was sttched wi th the overock fnger sd nto poston y ed ng a wider sttch
Needle Options Three- and fourthread convertb e modes stitch wi th th ree or four threads. Both need les are used for four thread appcations and either neede may be removed for three-thread appcations Remove the rght need le for wider coverage on heavier fabrics Remove the let neede for narrower coverage on lighter fabrics and rolled hems For tny seams remove the eft needle and i nvoke roll -hem setti ngs wth the na rrowest cuttng wd th and norma thread tension
Looper Options In addton to usng three- and four-thread appcations, with two three- and fourthread serger modes you can bypass the upper looper and use either needl e to stitch wth two threads.
You can change the look of your stitching by how you thread the serger The setups that produced these stitches are described in the chart below.
Sample Color
Left Needle
Right Needle
Upper Looper
Lower Looper
Whte
removed
x
bypassed
x
Blue
removed
x
x
x
Brown
x
removed
x
x
Pnk
x
x
x
x
Pukerig be remedied by deresig te diereil eed.
Optional Features Diffeential feed and adjustable pessuefoot pessue ae offeed as options on many seges Undestanding ho they ok ill help you ealize the full capabilities of you sege o help you evaluate dieent models hen making a puchase Derential Feed Because the sege has to feed dogs, the
font and ea teeth can be set at dieent speeds. When the speeds ae the same (dial at N o at , depending on the model), the fabic entes and leaves the stitch bed at the same speed. If fabic tends to pucke select a loethan-nomal setting. This slo s the font feed dog pulling the fabic unde the pesse foot simila to seing taut on a conventional machine
HROA PAES AND PRESSER FEE
Accssois fo th s incud spciaid thoat pats and pss ft fo spcific appications. V a rious specialized hroa paes and presser fee aow a wide range of applica tions such as rol l hemm ng; de cae sea mng blind hemm ing; gath eng a nd applying elastic bindi ng, or cord ing. Some seges are fu l l y automaed and eque no change of pesser fee o r throa pas or ths app aions wh il othrs qu rtai n adjusmns somtims in l udi ng a ha ng o throat pla and prssr oo. sua ll y os aompanis onvni n al though onvnin an b woth payng or in th long run
f th dg o f th faric is wavy and strtchd slct a highr thannormal stting Whn th diffrntial fd is st aov normal, th front tth mov mor quicly than th rar tth, pushing th faric undr th prssr foot and prvnting nits and ias aras from strtching during stitching Pesse-Foot Pessue Som modls allow you to chang th
prssur on th prssr foot ightn th prssur to accommodat thicr farics or to avoid tth tracs on shrs ncras th prssur to p lightr farics from slipping
A wav} sttchd dg can b mdid by incasing th dintia fd.
Geg Ready o Sew you are ew to sergig you are prbaby a itte itiidated by the itricacies of the achie. Threadig the achie eed't be dautig though you tae your tie ad foow istructios As you practice stitchig you gai codece ad soo wi be abe to use sergig i your e sewig prjects
Initi readg ost manuaturers mae threading easier y olor oding primary gides and tension heels youve never threaded a serger eore the tas ill e simpler i you selet spools o ordina seing thread to math the olor odes on your mahine Study the threading diagrams in your instrution oolet and use the long teezers supplied in the aessory pa to help thread the loopers Follo the threading instrutions areully Most stitching pblems resultjom incorrect threaing.
It ted o ee mpe you eet ted tt mte te oo o te teo wee
If a foam thrad cushion was supplid, plac it on th shlf bnath th spools. If you ar using convntional machin spools rathr than larg cons of spcializd srgr thrad, us th small plastic discs on top of th spools to xtnd byond th rim of th spool and prvnt th strands from snagging in th thrad notch If you ar using th largr cons for your initial thrading, us th nt slvs to prvnt th thrad from unrling too quickly
Stating to Stitch Slct a mdiumwight, crisp, wovn fabric in a solid color that contrasts wll with your thrad choics St th controls for ndl and loopr tnsions at normal rang as indicatd by your manufacturr, and slct normal (or mdium) stitch sttings for lngth, cutting width, and othr optional faturs such as diffrntial fd and prssrfoot prssur Swing without fabri, chain a thrad tail of 2 in or 3 in to prvnt thrad and fabric jams Watch th thrad chain to b sur
Begin and end yur ching wh a shr hread chain
it dosn't curl around and r-ntr th stitch bd Stop swing th thrad chain whil you position your fabric just in front of th prssrfoot to Rsum swing, ltting th machin gUid th fabric undr th foot. Chain a 3-in to 5in long thrad tail off th dg of th fabric bfor cutting th thrad
TIPS FOR G U I DI NG TH E FABRIC Let the feed dog gui de the fabrc: si m ply use your right hand to keep the r ight edge of the fabr ic evel when t approaches the knves Place your left hand flat on the fabc to the left of the needles and let it tavel wth the fabri c as it app roaches the feed dog; stop to reposition every few nches.
earn to focus your eyes about 2 in n front of the presser foot to give yoursef t me to make feed ng corection s a nd adjustments After the fabc enters the stitch bed and i s h dden by the foot, t s too ate to make correctons wit hout d stortng the seam o causing uneven sttching.
COMMON ENSION PROBEMS
1
If oweoope theads stagge ove the edge of the fabi and ae visibe fom the top side the tensions of the uppe and owe oope ae not baaned Tighten the owe oope tension in sma inements befoe eeasing the tension of the uppe oope.
2 If uppeoope stithes ae visibe
3 If neede theads fom sma
on the undeside of the fabi the tensions of the oopes ae not baaned Tighten the uppeoope tension in sma inements and eease the owe-oope tension if neessay
beadike oops of thead on the undeside of the fabi, the neede theads ae too oose Tighten the appopiate neede tension sighty. If neede theads ae too tight the stithes wi puke Loosen the appopiate tension dia
Adjusting the Tensions Experiment ith hanging tensions and stith lengths hile haining ithout fari so you an learly see the response to eah hange You il see dramati dierenes in the hain as it responds to eah ne setting For est results:
Ppey adusted sege stithes
Follo the manufaturers reommended settings
Adjust one tension heel at a time then he results
ae small inremental hanges
Che that looper threads interlo at edge of fari
ae tensions of oth loopers approximately equal
Fr he wde cun wdh, mve he bde hun he wy he rh
Fr he nrrwe cun wdh, mve he bde hun he wy he e
If he fbrc w under he che he cun wdh wde
If p frm n he r rher hn he ede f he fbrc he cun wdh nrrw
Adjusting the Cutting Width The utting idth is the distane eteen the nife lades and the needles t is ontolled y a no o dial that moves the hole lade housing outad to the ight, aay fom the needles, o inad to the le, lose to them You ill need to ne-tune the utting idth along ith the tensions to ahieve the pope effet ith eah fai f fai tists and uls undeneath the stithes, the utting idth is too ide Follo the manufatues instutions to deease utting idth, and ath the loe ade housing move to the le f the loops ovelo in the ai athe than at the edge of the fai, the utting idth is too nao Follo the manufatues instutions to inease utting idth, and ath the lade housing move to the ight
REPLACIN G NE EDL ES AND KNIVES ou may not b abl to tll if a nd is d ul l hookd or bnt just by lookng at it but a bad ndl w afft swing prfoman and aus thrads to brak mor asi Iy hrfor its a good ida to hang ndls frqunty as rommndd by th manufaturr. Gnrall y ndls wi ll rmain sharp for about 2 hours of swing ti m For a mor omplt dsripton of nds s p 3 o hang a ndl urn th flywhl to rais th ndls to thir highst poston wng th foot out to th sid for asir ass to th nd f your modl prmi ts thi s
A tweezer and ma rewdriver are handy fr hanging a neede
Rmov th thrad supply from th ndl oosn th srw abov th ndl and rmov it usng twrs or a spial nd holdr if providd Insrt a nd th manufaturr rommnds following th pvious stps in rvrs mall tars and frayd portions of th ut fabr dg ar a sign that th lowr knf blad has bom nikd or dul Most manufaturrs nlud a plamnt lowr blad in th assory kit Chang th blad aordng to th manufaturrs nstrutons
T hange a bade fw the man ufaturer' intrutn
Adjusting e Stitch Lngth As ih onvenional seing mahines, he higher he sih lengh numer, he longer he sih Gradually inrease he sih lengh hile seing o see he efe of ider spaing, hen derease he sih lengh o see he fuller overage o dense sihes
Hts for Trouble-Free Se g eeping you sege lint fee and noing ho to unjam it hen the thead snals ae impotant if you ant you sege to un smoothly ts also a good idea to pefom peiodi maintenane, as desied in the mahine manual Removing Lint Seges mae a geat deal of fai dust, hih
an eome tapped in the feed dogs Routinely eplae needles (p 22 and emove dust f inadvetently sen into the seam, a lump of lint an e a eal hoe to emove To eep the mahine lean and lint fee, fequently open the panel doo and lean the dust aay fom the loope mehanisms, utting lades, and feed dogs A small ush fo this pupose is usually inluded ith the aessoies, ut anistes of ompessed ai sold at omputesupply stoes, ae even ette To eep household dust out of the mahine, ove it hen not in use
A bst f mprssd ir wi hp rm dust d it frm isid th srr
Uamming a Sege f the mahine jams, stop seing
immediately Neve t to foe the mahine o se you ay though this ould end the loopes out of alignment and pemanently damage you sege f thee is any play in the yheel, gently t to aise the needle and ut the jammed theads aay f neessay, emove the needle fom its soet You an also open the font plate and use a seam ippe to fee the jammed theads fom undeneath Befoe you esume seing, e sue that you have leaed aay all stay theads, that the needle has not een ent, and that the mahine is etheaded oetly Wh th mchi ms, stp swi d rm thrd ss with sm ripp s shw, r thr sm t Prssr ft rmd fr crit)
Fabrics, Thread, and Notions The rs hoie you mae hen planning any proje is fari Eye appeal funion and he syling of he garmen you plan are he primary faors in your hoie, u espeially hen serging, he deisions you mae onerning reads and noions ill e an imporan par of he appearane and suess of your nished proj e Will you mae faulously iny seams a design feaure of serged lingerie or highligh a pressed ool jae ih a righ edging? Will you have serged deoraive sporsear deails suh as aloed seams or hems? Will you inensi he asi fari olor ih harmonizing hreads or aen i ih a ellhosen onras? Will you use hi hreads suh as pearl oon or ooly nylon o highligh fari exure or shiny rions and glossy rayons or meallis o ring ou he glamour of fesive faris? Even if you originally planned o use he serger for qui and eien seaming his haper ill give old hands and eginners alie many ne reasons o eep he serger in mind hen uying ne paerns or adding air o riedandrue favories
Selectg Fabcs All fabrcs of all weghts whether woen or knt are sUtable for sergng In fact wth just a few twsts of the dals the serger can actually make some of the more "dcult fabrcs easy to work wth Aer selectng your fabrcs select needles and thread apprprate to the weht and weae. Lighteight fais ae oven fom thinly spun yans in faily open eaves Cottons, sils syntheti, and some ools fall into this goup With lighteight fais use thin needles and lighteight theads fo onstution and emellishment ediumeight fais an e of any e (sil, otton ool, o syntheti) ut the yans ae spun into heave plies and moe densely paed into the eave Needles and theads should oespond to the eight of the fai Hea eight fais have the thiest yans and oen vey dense eaves suh as till o pile se heavie needles and theads to onstut and deoate these fais
ts Lie oven fais nits an e light medium, o heay, aoding to the eight and thiness of the yan and the densi of the nit nits an also e of any e natual o syntheti The lightest nits ae single nits, in hih the ong side loos dieent fom the ight and a single o of loops ill appea on the edge of the fai as it unavels Doule nits have o ight sides and evea a doule o of loops as they unavel Jeseys, matte eseys, intelos, iing, tiots, eees, seate its, spandex, Lya and pann velvets and velous ae all nits that lend themselves to suessful seging
6
Fais Thead, and Notions
Lghweght fabrcs
Medum-wgh fabrcs
Heavyweght fabrcs
Seeting Faris
Choosg ead Select theads J Jnctin and cl tility thead cls J seams and seam nshes shld blend int the Jabic as mch as pssible Decative theads t hhlight and embellish can be in matching cntasting shades he same spools you use on your onventional mahine an e used suessully on your serger Suh threads inlude otton rapped polyester, all otton and all polyester Speialzed serger threads suh as oolly nylon, toply polyester and invisile nylon lament threads ome on ones Woolly nylon is a so omortale, strethy thread that is strong enough to e sen under high tension, mang it suitale or deliate seams and rolled hems (Loosen thread tensions i you ant the oolly nylon to u up as a ller thread) Polyester and nylon ament threads also tolerate high tensions or roled hems and are thin enough to lend ith most olors or less visile stithing
Faris, hread, and Notions
CHANGING HREADS h only m you nd o u nhrad a ndl or loopr oally is wh n you ar ypassing i o hang hrads s imp ly lav h mahi n hradd n h nw oor as shown n h our phoos ow and hain wihou ari un al h nw hrads hav passd hrough h ys and no h han A smp ovrhand kno is a ll h a is ndd o i n nw h rads. A lways s h suriy o your kno or hradng hrough h srgr
ys and lnd ino h hai n i n h looprs ar hrad-hungry his w happn or h ndl hrads arriv a h nd ys. Evn hough h sma ll y o h nd rarly a ows h kno o pass hrough asily i is sl worh knoing on Jus as h kno rahs h y u h hrad pu ll h old hrad ou and manuay h rad h nw on. sum sih ng.
d Us loops o ordinary swng hrad o hlp you hrad ooprs wh hrads ha nd o u suh as woolly nylon
S K o sih h knos hrough rm h u nds o wihin in o in. rom h kno B arul no o rim h spool nd o you wi hav o r h kno! Loosn h nson whls o l h knos pass mor asil y and h an h srgr wihou ar u ni l h uppr and owr loopr hrads pass hrough h
1
I you ar run ni ng shor o hrad rmmr ha looprs onsum h r i ms h amoun o hrad ha nds do av sanr spools or h ndls and u Il r ons or h looprs
Ti i w rd bu) d rd) wi simp vrd k
2 B sur k is sur br rdig i
3 Si r pu k rug y
4 Trd pr wi p rgur grm
pr
rd rd) d pu ik uzzy rd bu) rug y
rug srgr
oo head
Decorative Threads When it omes to deoative theads, seges have it hands don ove onventional mahines Thi theads that have to e ound y hand on the oins o onventional mahines pass easily though the lage loope eyes Sine the sege spindles an easily hold entie spools, eative ominatons o deoative thead an e hained into lengths to mae ustom piping and aid Woolly nylon us up to emellish a seam ith deoative atoing and a edges an e oveast quily th any nishes in plae o hems and aings Exprmnt wt mxn coors and typs of trads for no cts Sown r to r ar wooy nyon bu) n nt spoo casn rayon par cotton turquos) wt protct cap cotton armnt trad rd) on a 2,-yd spoo, and on foam cuson) dcorat mtac trad.
Theads may e sil lnen ool metalli syntheti o otton and any thness that ill t though the eye o the loope Fo geate oveage, use deoative theads in the uppe and loe loopes alone o in ominations t is itial to ensue that deoative theads uneel evenly and o smoothly though the thead gides Some slippe theads slide o the spool and tist aound the spindle eneath othes snag o ail to eed popely Fo these dult theads ypass the spindle and plae the spool in a up ehnd the mahne Deoative theads o est i they ae smooth stong and supple Avoid slued o egula textues that might snag in loope eyes Theads that ea easily ae not suitale o deoative seging Sti theads suh as quilting thead o ug and apet thead ae also not suitale, sne they ont eed easily though the stithing mehanisms
For n fdn wt dffcut trads, suc as ts rayon rbbon trad, t t spoo unwnd n a cup ratr tan on t spnd.
Sometimes it is est to mx theads o dieent textues and olos Fo instane monolament nylon o thin polyeste ae good hoies o the loe loope to lend ith a deoative novelt thead n the uppe loope ix elated shades o simila theads in needles and loopes to ustomize unusual o diult olos Neutal shades o gay o iV ae good asis that lend ith many othe shades to daen o lighten them; sometimes thee olos an e lended o nealy peet mathes When lending a seam, e sue to use the shade losest to you ai in the needle
Fais Thead and Notions
Selecg Needles Serger needles are somehat sturder than conventonal machne needles but they are szed n the same ay: the hher the numbe the smaller the needle
The pe o abri you are using il determine the size needle you need Heavier abris require arger needles and ighter abris require smaller ones For example ith denims velvets and orduroy generally use a size 70 needle With lightereight abris suh as batiste harmeuse or organza I generally use a size 90 needle nother onsideration is the neede tip For natural bers a pinted tip is ne sine natural bers are tisted and spun to orm the thread and ae easily penetrated by the pointed tip o the needle But syntheti bers being o hemial origin are not tisted ad spun but breed in vats and e x ded in long laments The strands deet the point o a needle instead o alloing it to piere them during stithing this is hy it is best hen serging syntheti bers to use ballpoint needles hih ease the laments apat
I PS FOR CHOOSI NG SERGE R NE EDES Ligh as Nds mus sma nough o sh hrough h ari whou makng ho ls Ndls ha a oo la rg wil l lav visi l hos n h ari
Mdum aris Nds mus srong nough o p h ar asil y y sma nough no o mak hols
avy aris Nds nd o surdy or hy w nd and rak du rng sihng .
ynh ars o a wghs 's s o us apon nds mahd o h wgh o h ari
Seeting Needes
Basg Techques Hhly skilld prssional sampl-makrs in th indust nvr bast at all and vn tak prid in using no pins But somtims w mortals rally do nd a pin or two vnor srging which rquirs much lss pinning and basting than convntional machin swing
Whn it is nssary to p aris rom shiing during sing, you an pin (us aution) stailiz diult aris ith starh, or glu layrs togthr ith solid glu stis, liquid sam salants, artists tap, or prglud asting tap you must ast, avoid asting on th sam lin or ithin th sam alloan, aus rmoving asting stiths might damag th srging and an a timonsuming hor that dats th virus o th mahin
Pinning Th srgr ill not s ovr pins! At st, ithr th pin or th ndl ill ra At orst, th nivs ill damagd and th timing o th mahin disruptd Whn pins ar alld or, suh as hn mathing plaids or holding vry slippy ari, pla thm a last in insid th ra dg so thr is no dangr o on inadvrtntly passing through th stith d On aris that may rtain prmannt pin mars, pla pins at right angls to th sam lin and xptionally vigilant aout rmoving thm rom th sam alloan as you stith; or onsidr othr ays o suring th o layrs suh as taping or glu asting
Faris, Thrad and Notions
Artist's tape available at artsupply stores leaves no stic residue and is ideal for positioning sections that need careful placement such as straps or pleats Simply tape the area in question and remove the tape aer stitching. Basting tape is concealed by layers of fabric but artist's tape is aways on top of the fabric where you can see it eliminating the danger of stitching through it.
Place pins at least 7 in inside the edges to be serged.
Glues for basting come in liquid stick and tape form. Tape is pressed between the two ayers while stick glues and liquid glues are both applied sparingly along the seam line. Stick glue is the easiest ype to control. If liquid glue is overapplied it can cause skipped stitches or harm your needle. Most basting glues and tapes are water solublewhich is a benet only if your fabric is washable. Tapes carry the attendant risk of being sewn through making them much harder to remove and they will not ex easily around cured seams. Test gluebasting products on your fabric to see if they wil really save you any time or troube Sometimes preseaming at the conventional machine is the quickest and most accurate choice saving the serger for nonconstruction nishing tasks
Solid glues such as glue sticks and basting tape are easier to control than liquid glues
Starching though not really a form of basting can serve the same purpose by stabilizing tricky fabriC making them easier to sew. For lightweight fabrics and laces starch can actuay bond two layers temporarily. Laces stretch ike bias fabric and need to be stabilized with starch before stitching. Lay a protective covering over your ironing board (p 5) and spray lightly Allow the starch to settle into the lace before pressing Stretch lace slightly as you steam ith a medium-hot iron A press cloth keeps starch from building up on the sole plate of your iron and prevents scorch marks on your lace or fabric Simiarly if you are joining ace to
Spray starch and pressing will stabilize lightweight fabrics and laces
fabriC starch very ightweight cottons to help support the lace during stitching
Basting Techniques
33
Oer Helpful Poducts Notion counter are tocked with ewing aid that can igncantl horten ewing time and impve reult. Thoe with the badet number of ue are uuall worth the invetment Gce tore and artuppl houe are ource of other helpl upplie. Be ure to tet an prduct on crap before uing on the actual garment Check the label for information on care, wahabilit, and permanence
Bias Triot Whe hemmi diicul brics, bis rico pe helps corol he edes
Bas rc s a ape f n r n wdh ha cmes n whe lack, and several asc clrs; s packaged n rlls and sld as a seam ndng cnrl frayng n he serger helps cnrl sray hreads ha end escape when rllng dcul farcs r as areas durng rll hemmng Serge decrave hreads ver he flded edge creae ppng and rad; he rc frms he seam allwance I s srng enugh renfrce kn shulder seams ha mgh sag r srech, ye exle enugh le he farc "gve
Fusible Thread Fusle hread s sld n cnes as a asng and psnng ad Fr sergng manufacurers recmmend hreadng he lper f he sde ha wll e fused (Fr example, f he wrng sde f he farc s e fused, hread he lwer lper and sew rgh sde up) Fusible hred i he lower looper c be pressed o orm hem
4
Cver every sch f he fusle hread wh a press clh efre applyng he rn Lgh fUng wll e sucen preparan fr nal pschng; lnger fUng a hgher hea and mre pressure may yeld a permanen nd
Farcs Thread and ns
Water-Soluble Stabiler Lay fabrcs that mve r twst n tp f water-slube stablzer and sttch thrugh all layers Wen the seam s cmpete, gently pull the stablzer away frm the sttchng as f separatng perfrated sheets f stamps Rnse the remanng stabzer ut f the sttchng wth warm water.
A qu are of otton organd y ake a good pre oth beaue t w I withtand hig h heat and you an ee through it.
Prevent ron ipr int of erged ea al lowane by tukng folded trip of paper towel beneath al lowane du rng presing. Pre as uual wth a ppropriate heat and stea ettng.
War-slubl sabilizrs suppr dlia sching and ar asily rn away
Papr wls plad undr sam allwans prvn imprins rm h irn
AN EASY IRONING-BOARD COVER By sergn g tes onto a length of fabric you an make an ironng board cover that's pretty to look at and easy to change Cut a wdth of fabrc to ft the outne of your ronng board, allowng a 5-n. margn all around. Serge the edges, incorporating utlty rbbon ties nto the sergng at convenent intervals around the edges. Te tighty over your regula r ronng-board cover and remove for washi ng or replacng as desred.
Other Helpful Prducts
35
Skills and Sea Once yu undersand he way a serger wrks s a shr sep maserng he asc sklls ha wll gve yu greaer dexery Knwng when sch wh he knves when n and where hey cu cmned wh a hrugh undersandng f where he needle sews and whch hreadng pns chse wll enale yu sch accuraely and evenly and e delghed wh yur resuls he speed f he serger affecs hw yu gUde farc n ndersandng wha expec and knwng he rgh ways psn yur hands help yu gan cnrl and manpulae farc hrugh he schng prcess s easy learn he ascs ecause hey grw lgcally u f undersandng he way he serger wrks Once learned hey ecme he fundan fr specc applcans such as seams nerr nshes and hems hs secn nrduces asc sklls rs preparng yu fr a varey f cmmn sewng applcans as well as he greaer challenges f cues crners and placke slashes he secn n seams nshes and hems hen presens a rad verew f serger uses Several pnal accessres fr applyng elasc r lnd hemmng are suggesed as well as several whread applcans If yur serger des n have hese capales yu can fllw he alernave mehds Ms farcs and applcans fall n a few rad caegres s ha even f a specc applcan sn cvered he asc dea ehnd all he echnques s explaned s yu can easly make yur wn chces f seams hems hreads and nshes
6
Budg Serger Sks Sometimes it see as the serger requires a whole n ew vocabulary of words and skills Knives and loopers trimming widths cutting widths looper tensions and derential feed are things we don't worry about at conventional machines Overlocking latlocking serging chainingno wonder so many people have never even taken their serger out of the box!
Slls and Seams
The secet to it al s a few hous of practice wth easy matera s a plety of time to put the kowlege of what th e serger oes a how t oes t i to your ha s It is 't eve ecessary to try eveythi g J ust bowse through this book ut you f a appl icatio that tempts you, the try t You ll fi that the sege is ot so itmiatig after al , b ut ea y easy a cove et to use
Understanding Were e Knives Cut Kowg where the ives cut i eatio to the stitchi g is the fist step i master g the serge Oce you ae cetai that you wot cut away too much of you fabic by acciet, you wil gai cofi ec e A few momets of pactce with a stpe fabrc w il he p bu accuacy a coto At the begi i g, focus your eyes o the fe bae, the gaua l y shif you r atteto fowa to the toe of the p resser foot a the fabc passig beeath it Most mo els of segers ow hep you gu ie the fabric with i icatios o the toe of the pesse foot that show the positios of the ee es a statoay k ife If you seger lac ks these, you ca mark you ow as you become awae of the reatio sh ips betwee the toe of the presser foot a the sttchi g mechasms of th e sege
Pratie yur stites and seams n srap fabri Stripes will elp yu guide te fabri in a straigt line
Cut a 1 2- egth of stripe fabic with a relativey wie stripe (a -i stripe is eal) a calm coors that wil wthsta tese focus wthout ti g you eyes elect a meium-og sttch egth a a threa colo that lets you focus eas y o the fabi c beeath the sttches et the cutti g wth at t s west settg Thea tesio s a fee optos (f ay) shou be omal At fist, focus o the i e ege of the statioa ry kife bl ae (earest the eees), the sttch util the cut ege is perfectly staigh t a co cies exactly wth the ege of the strpe Usua ly, whe the cuttig with is at its west settg, the ght ege of the presser-foot toe wi coi c e wit h the i e r ege of the statio ay fe bae
Buldng Serg
Sklls
39
CUI NG WI DH Cung wdh s h d isan bwn h sh ng and h knivs.
sams on havir abris and or od-hm sngs on l ghr abris.
Narrow ung wdhs ar bs o ovrasng ny sams on d a abris and o aloking ri mmd dgs. Wd ui ng wd hs ar usd o ovrasng
oving h poson o h blad ho using h angs h ung widh . h wds sing is shown n h phoo a l; h narrows is shown n h phoo a gh.
RIMMING WIDH h rimm ng widh o h porion o h sam allowan ha s u away and di sadd s h d isan bwn h raw dg o h abr and h knvs. h rimming widh varis wh h sam aowan and h oaion o h sam Whn sami ng and ovrasng ar suanous srgrs rim a prs disan ro h samln auomaal ly. Whn you a ovrasng h allowan o a sam you hav shd onvnonay m h sam amoun o xss abri rom h sam aowan ha you wou d wh onvnional mhods. vn h sa allowan s small (o has bn prvously rmmd and ad) you should
4
Skls and Seams
s pan o m a iny porion away rom h vr y dg o nsur a sp vn dg and uno ovrasng.
Wh a nohr ngh o h sa abr oa h saonay kn onro o sl h sa l s ing wdh and sh un l yo an on dny sw h dg o h srp n a sagh n lan ng o ous on h o o h prssr oo nsad o h ba d F na ly wh a hid lngh o abr bgn sh ng agan a h narrows ung wdh. away hogh h lngh sop sh ng as h nd l an d oa h saona ry kn ouward o h wds sng yo ow h oo and s swn g wh l sl g d ng h abr oward h naows ingwdh ndao on h oo yo w l s h sh in g v o h ig h and no h nghbong sp
T rmmg widt as away as yu sc
Masterig Where the Needle Sews Afte becomi g cofide t about wee te k ives cut you ca lea were eac eedle w il sew Agai pactice wit te stiped fabic sice i t w l sow te accuracy of your stitci g Stat pactcig wit bot eedles i te m ac e te remove frst te rigt te te eft Te stitc fges are couced og gooves u st to te rg t of eac eede Look u st to te lef of tis goove to see if te toe of your pesser foot as bee marked to idicate te eedle positio. If you eed to make your ow gu idel ie mark te toe ust to te lef of eac goove wit a fie ideibe maker Now cut aoter 2-i strp of strped fabric Wt al settigs at oma postio te fabrc so tat te edge of a str pe coc ides wt te left eede posto Stitc ceck g te fabic to be sue te eed e stitces ae al iged wt te edge of te stripe. Make sma l adjustmets i feed g as ecessary util you ca cofdet y sttc te e gt of te fabc witout wavei g
Mark te needle position on te toe of te presser foot
Retu r t e presser foot to sewi g posto ad aga sttc a l egt of striped fabric tis time aimig t e edge of te stri pe at te ig t eede Smilary stitc util you ca follow te stripe wt te rigt eedl e for te egt of te fabric
Te edge of te stripe is aligned wit te mark for te rigt needle on te toe of te presser foot
Bulding Serger Skills
41
Manipuating the Fabric Specia Situations You w l hav a l th basics ow oc you mastr tchiqus lik start g a stoppg, gui i g th abrc, a ari g to ocus your ys ar ough aha o th prssr oot to m ak corctio s without istotg th stitch i g Now you a ray to tack th mor spciali situatios that ol ow ag i g o a of, avo ig th kvs, clari g th stitch grs, bypassg th kivs, a ma kg a cutout
1
Bn ontnuous sams by ann n from t rt
Angling on and of Circular Areas Cotiuous sams such as cufs, ac gs, or ci cular hms hav o cov t bg g or o bgi a pci sly a to stitch a smooth cotiuous sam, ch a a w ichs ormaly, th ag th abri c i to th k ivs om th ight Atr th k ivs hav bgu to tm th g, pi vot th abric ito th omal sttch g positio
Wh you rach th o th sam, a g th abc to th l t away om th k vs, a sttch of th g o th abri c, swi g ov th stitchs at th bgi i g o th sam o about 1 i
Compt ontnuous sams by ann to t and sttn or prous stts
4
Slls and Sams
Wen yu need t restit angling in rm te let lets yu avid te knives
Avoiding the Knives ometmes you wish to avo the ki ves uti l you have begu stitchig (erhaps you ee to restitch a area that has bee prevously trimme, or you must seamlessly ble to the exstig sttch ig ) o avoi the k ves age i rom the et util the abic eaches the eeles the pivot ito orma sttchg postio
Ate beg ito the exstig sttch g age the abric agai to the ef away rom the kives a sttch o the ege
Whe clearg sttch igers (p 44 a aglig o a o remember that the k ives beg cuttig about i beore th e ee es eter the abrc
Buldng Serger Sklls
4
CEARING HE SICH FINGERS Whn you want to start or stop at an xact point, you nd o a h sih ingrs and swng h prssr oo ou o h way o h sih d your srg prmis. hn you an s wh o posiion h fabc to start s ttching u ndr th point of th ndls, or a h nd o shng o g h ari away rom h nds.
To clear stitch fngers without fabic in the macne at the beginning of a seam: Ch ain a ngh o had. op swing and ras h ndls o h highs poin. as h prssr oo and swing i o h i possil.
osiion h ar und h poin o h nds as you would on a onvnional mahn. wng h prssr oo ak ino poson nssary owr i and rsum swing
To clear stitch fngers wit abric in t he macne at an exact stopping point : op swing. ull
/ in. o sak n ron o h ndls.
as h ndls o h highs poin . ais h prss oo and swng i ou o h way poss).
u aou iz n o slak in h nd hads.
ul l h ari ak unil h sih ings ar and h dg o h a is u s h nd h pons o h nds.
ul l h hrad ha n hin d h prss oo un h sih ingrs lar.
wng h prssr oo ak i nssary ow and sum swng o han a had ai
To ce ar the sttch fers wthout fabrc t he mache, cha, the pu sack t he thread Presser foot remoed for carty
To cear the sttch fers wth fabrc the mache pu the fabrc back ut the fers cear (Presser foot remoed for carty
44
Sklls and Seams
Wn dg bn rmmd, lr fngr nd fold fbr dgonlly wy from ndl. (Prr foo rmovd for lry.)
Bypasing the Knives Agig o ad o p 4) is o way o bypassi g h vs; hr a wo or ways o bypass h vs as you bgi sichig Boh rquir clar g h sch igrs
Foldin g on
Wh h dg has a lrady b rd, clar h sch igs ad old h abric d iagoal y away ro h dl a h poi wh you bg sichig oso h d i gh a h old Bg sch ig w h h id dg abui g h i sid o h i you wa o a h dg ar you bg sich ig, ju s swig h abic slighy o h rgh i h pah o h i Makn g a Cutout
Wih scissos, cu ou so o h sa alowac o you saig dg o sa h ddl o a cicular dg such as a larg h, cu h ii g wdh ro h dg or abou i
1 To bgn rgng rulr dg, poon ndl bgnnng of uou. (Prr foo rmovd for lr
Ca h sch grs ad posiio h abric udr h ds righ a h bgi ig o h cuou 1 wh h id dg abu g h s d o h A h d o h crc, sop whr sichig bgs, ca h sch igs, a d c ha i o so h sich ig s couous wih o gap bw bgiig ad d ad o ovrlap
2 End rulr dg by lrng fngr nd nng o o ng onnuou
Following Outside Cues Wath th knvs aruly whi swi ng u vd sas, baus th fabri w l not pvot in th gip of th prssr oot. rss th fabi dow n on th d k o th sgr, to th ft of th nds, to rat a ntra pivot point; alow th raw dg to trav at th spd o th fd dog. Following Inside Curves On ins id u rvs, th h al ng is to kp th tid dg ro urv ng away o th knif. Push th fabr sighty toward th knif as you stth, bng sur th trid dg stays lush agai nst th bad. ight pu kri ng to th l t of th nd is nora. Dont worryit w l van sh as th sa s stithd T fllw an u tsd urv prss dwn wth yur fngrs ratng a pvt pnt
Turning Ouide Corners Outsid ornrs ay b sad us ng two nd s or doativy stthd ontinuo usy, u sin g on nd.
Two-needle n on continuous method With your sssors, hand-tr th ti i ng width fro th first n of th sa a owan on th sond sid. w op ty of th fi rst si d, ut th thads, a nd start th sond sid as if t wr a nw sa, stithing ovr th ov lokd dg of th rst sd and kping th hand-trd dg of th o nr fu sh agai nst th kn ivs fo th ngth of th uto ut. T fllw an nsd urv push th fabr tward th knf as yu stth
T sam rs wth tw ndls, pla th handtrmmd prtn f th snd sd flush aganst th knvs
sing a larg-yd handswing nd, run th thrad tai bak through th stithing to ona t
One-neede method for continuous decoatve sttching ov on o th n ds aod ng to th dsi rd wdth of th stth ng.
BUILDING SKILLS AT CORNERS Learnng to stith orners an be triky It may take several tres before you an suessfully stith a ontnuous orner without pullng the edge nto the stthng at the begnnng of the seond side (by starting too ar away rom the needl es) or wthou t reatng thread loops that extend beyond the fabri (by pulling too muh thread slak when learing the stith ingers). When stith ing orners, adjust the uttn g width or eah fabr Adust to as narrow a width as poss ible tha t keeps stithes rom fal l ing o the edge You a lso need to selet the right neede ombi nation.
Gradua urves
Outside rners (us ing the noncontin uous stith method, whh s desrbed on p 46 •
•
Extremely urved areas
Seams at onventional mahne, then serge overast wth one needle •
•
Sashes
I n side urves Use the left needle only or: Crisp medu m- and heavyweight abris that w support wder deorative stithng and heaver thread •
Use the rght needle o ny for
Use two needles for: •
Use one neede for :
•
A fabrs, partiuary deliates
Overast prestithed nteror orners
•
A other orners and urves
Trim 2 in o seam a lowane ro the seond si de Stith the irst side, stopp ing exaty w hen t he neede omes to the edge o the abri L ift the presser oot and ear th e stth n gers (p 44). Postio n the seond sde d rety nder the pon t of the neede, align the trimed porton of the sea a lowane flsh aganst the nfe bade, and resme stithing Oercasting Seamed Inside Corners Slash the seam a low ane to the orner and spread the fabri at i nto a straght l ne. As yo spread the sash, p eats wi l orm in the fabri.
Distribte ths l ness evenl y on ethe r sde o the sash, and sere wth tape verast the sea alowane, stthng in a straght lin e right over the slash.
To stitch decorative corners continuously with one needle, hand-trim the first 2 in before starting the second side
To overcast seamed inside corners, slash to the coe pleat the fabric, and spread the fabric into a straight line.
PLACKETS lakes ae like insde nes wh a harin un sng he slash-and-sread ehnque r insde rnes lakes an be srged wh deave head an araive n sh lash he abri as he aern dires sread n a sraigh line sele mi n imal c uttng wdth to sup pot t he decorative head and veas in a sraigh line keeng he edge he slash lush agans he kne durng sih ng eisin wk l ike edgng a li ngerie lake wih lae is simle wh waer-sluble sabilier 35 and ass ae
Packt ca b fd by u t dcrr tcqu p
4
Slls and Seams
lash and sead he lake and ae he sabi I izer wh righ s ide u Lay he lae wrng side u in a saigh l ine n he sread lake aligning he ae wh he aw edge a he lake in and 1 in insde he raw edge a he he en in g eue he lae wih ae e he mahine r rll hemming 62) and sh remv ng sris f ae as hey reach he resse f. F nsruins n hw verlk lakes r nside nes ree 4
Even delicate plackets like this lingerie placket may b dd wt ac u t dcrr tcqu t ttc vr t tap tat d t ac pac; rmv ac pc a yu cm t t
Sewing Taut I the fabric tends o pucker dur ing sitch ing, invoke the diferential eed opion (usng seti ngs below noma or pu l he fabic taut unde the needle wih boh hands, bein g careful not to sow he natural feed of the abrc Be sure o keep sewin g speed even and egular to avoid uneven sitches
Machine Easing
se bo nds o pull e bric u under e needle
When fabric has a tendency to stetch, nvoke the d ferental eed option (usng setings above noma), or dup icae ts eect manualy by pacing you finger or a too such as a screwdive bl ade ush aga i nst the heel of the pesse foot. A low the abr c to ple up against the restcton as you stitch, reeasing and repositon n g every few n ches.
Holding Gra The ong foot and feed dog have a tendenc y to di stor stetchy areas o grain such as bias, crcula, o di agona seams. To prevent th s, "hol d gai n as you sew. Press the fabric to the dec o the seger wih you rght hand and keep your eye on the weave to be sue hreads ae crossing at ig ht anges as he fabric entes the pesse foot The seam a owance may appear sighty ippled, bu he presser oot w l aten t again du ing sitch ing.
se ool suc s screwdriver o orce bric o pile up beind e presser oo o ese bric or preven srecin Hold rin by pressin e bric o e deck o e serer wi e ri nd
Ending Se a s A h d of h sam, cu h had ai l us g scssos o h bui l- kif bh d h pss foo o ch a i aoud o h swg poso ad sch i pas h k ivs f h d of h sam w l l o b cossd by aoh sam o scud a hm or fac g, you mus pv h sichs fom fayi g Th bs way s o had a ag-yd d wh h had ai l ad u i back hough h sichig
Cu hred il b y hii i ud sewi psii d sihi er i
Thads ca a so b scurd wh liquid sam saa, availab a oos cous Appy a sma bad, sprad i wih h po i of a pi, ad alow o dry bfor cuig h h rads Aravly, h hrad ca b kod a h dg of h fabrc wih a figu-gh ko Fi rs, loop h hrad a ba ck ovr isf, passi g h d u dr h ail a h fabc dg ad h back up hough h frs oop Now s h d h rough h loop x o h fabri c wh you igh h ko o s righ a h fabrc dg ().
2 T pree fryi, ru he hred il bk hruh he sihi usi lreeyed eedle
3 Frm fiureeih k seure hred il
Overstitching at the Start of a Seam Bcaus orstitch i ng c rats a thc k rig of oub stitch ng it is th last satisfactory mtho for scurin g thra tails on n fabrics but t is accptab i n ctain aras At th bgi nn ing of th sam br ng th th ra ta I forwa j ust as th nls ntr th fabr c osition th tail so th ns w l sw or t as thy orcast wing th tai l n ront of th kn is an t t fa away atr an nc h or so Overstitching the thread tai at the beginning f the stitching wrks n sturdy fabrics
Overstitching a t the End of a Seam oow ths mtho if it s ncssary to stitch th tai l at th n o th sam Clar th stitch fingrs ju st at th momnt whn th ns sttch of th fab ric Fli p th fabric an poston it as if you wr at th start o th sam ttch backwa or an in ch or two a n ol of Cl ip th fin a ta c os to th sam alowanc Overstitching the thread tail at the end f the stitching can be dne by clearing the stitch fingers, then fipping the fabric ver
Se g Eastic hr ar svral hods or appyng asc a h sg; h on you c hoos dpnds on you r psona l prfrnc and h uncon o h garn You c an laloc a casng, ovoc ngr lasc drcly o h abrc, or us an asc app caor oo, avalab as an accssory for os sgs hods ha don nvov sch ng h asc ono h abrc du rng sch ng, such as h ovrlocd cas ng, g v h os prdcabl rsuls
T fk si mk S-fd i h fbri d sr wr sid up wih si d
Flatlocking th e Casing od h cas ng a owanc o h n sd and fod h abr c w h an -ol d Th odd abr c w rsb a uc ha ovrlaps h sa n no h sa alowanc by a scan n h raw dg of h casng unbac w l xnd abou % n byond h old
ov h lf o rgh ndl accordng o h wgh of you fabrc and h wdh o sch ng you wan) h srg o hr-hrad faocng by rlasng h nson of al h r hrads
A sfy pi rih s h sm prs h fr d f h si frm pui hruh h si
ch wong sd up so h xra sa al owanc of h urnbac s rd away, h nd pnras al hr ayrs, and h rgh sd o h sch loops fal of h dg o h ab r c Whn h schn g s cop, sprad h sa apar and prss h sal "fa adds on h rgh sd o h abrc w l dsappa no h olds ar h asc s nsd n h casng Cos h fna l sa afr h asc s n plac
RIPPNG OUT It happens to the best of us ! Sometimes you can 't avod rppng out Because the tenson of serger sttcng is so much ooser than tat o conventional sttchng you ave to use a seam ri pper to reease the neede threads or only a ew stitches then you can pull out te rest, as if you were pulling up gathering threads When the needle threads have been pu ed out of the fabr c si mp y give te ooper treads a tug to start the uncoi i ng process You may ave to repeat this process severa times on a ong seam Take extra care not to damage de icate abrics.
When ripping out is necessarY use a seam ripper to cut the needle threads
Oerlocking the Elastic Cut eastic to the de sred measurement
Overlap and stitc the ends Mar both the eastc loop and te garment edge nto quarters Wit r gt si des togeter, pi n te eastic to te garment edge 1 al owin g te raw edge to extend a generous 1 n beyond the edge of te eastc Overloc te eastic to the abrc, stretch ng te eastic to it as you sew 2
1 Pin elastic to the garment edge, match ing the marks
Leave te ne engaged to neaten te aw edge, but be very careul not to cut te edge of the elastic Attachin g with an Elastic Foot Place the eastc foot on te maci ne and stitc accordng to the manuacturer's instructions Te atacment w l stretc elastic eveny as t stitces Pretest te gaterng ratio (p 54)
2 Overlock the elastic to the fabric stretching the elastic as it's sewn. Building Serger Skills
53
DEERMI N I NG GAHE RI NG RAIOS In machine gatherng, the fabric is fed nto the feed dog faster than it is drawn away. It bunches up beneath the needle and forms gahers as you stitch, saving you the sep of ater pu ng up the bobbin threads.
Crosswise grain forms gathers easy, and the ruffles are crisp Lengthwise grain gathers stiffly, forms ess suppe peats, and creates the most bul k, so gathering ratios should be lower.
Since ths gatherng s permanent, it is important to test your fabric before stitching to determine how easil y t w gather and to see if t conforms to the gathering ratio of your pattern. ightweight fabrics gather into smaer peats, require shorter stitches, have many gathers per inch, and require higher gathering ratos. Heavy fabrcs gather into bu ker pleats, require longer stitches, take fewer gathers per in ch, and have lower gathering ratios.
G R
Fabrc grain must also be consdered. Bas gathers are sof and d rapey, fabric does not resst gather ng, and the gatherng ratio can be high wthou buk.
Cut a 4 in . wide strp of fabrc to a length evenly divsible by 2 and 3 (such as 1 8 in. or 24 in.. For 3 to rato: dvide by 3 a 24i n. wde strip should gather to 8 in .. or a 2 to ratio divide by 2 (a 24-in . wide strip shoud gather to 1 2 in.. For 1 5 to 1 ratio divde by 3 and mutipy the resut by 2 (a 24-n. wide strp should gather to in. .
Gatheg Lig hwegh fabrics m ay be gahered wiho a specia aachment Increase the sich lengh o 3- (maxi m m length setin gs n crease he d ifferenia l feed o he hghes pon above normal so ha he fabrc i l be fed no he sch bed twce as fas as i eaves ahe lighweigh fabi wih he diffeenial feed se he highes seing
A gaheing-f aahmen les yu gahe and veas a he same ime
Tighen he n eede h read o secre he gahers he rolhem seng can be nvoked o ro he op edge ino a nea finsh. When gaherng heavier fabrics, use a specia gaher ng foo atachmen aval abe for mos sergers Folow he manfacrer's n srucions for basic sei ngs, and hen es your fabric for gahering raos, as described i n he si debar above
Se a s, Fishes, ad Hems The serger is surisingL sur isingLy y e eective ectiv e at seaming se aming and hem ming ming as weLL snishing. A variety of interior construction seams can be done compLeteLy at the serger; others are done in combination with the conventionaL machine It is oen preferabLe to make ne seams (such as Fench seams) at the serge serge because the knives neaten the edges ed ges so eectiveLy ectiveL y that th at no little litt le threads pop out at the seamLine as they can when aLLowances are hand trimmed the traditionaL way. Tiny hemmed seams can also be swLy and swLy and accurateLy sewn in sheer fabrics mimicking techniques used by skiLLed industry pfessionals pfessionals,, who use Y1 6-in. LLhemmer attachments on industriaL machines. Cu rved rved seas, such as ah es, t hat ae cveta cveta l y sew sew with straight stitch stitch i g ay be seg segee- shed i e ayer afe seag. Othe seas ay b e pessed pessed pe ad i shed sepaatey sepaatey as appprate, "raed with sergg bere sewg. Fraig s part icular ly ef efectve ectve i stabi stabi liz g shee abics abics t backi gs whe tw ayers ayers ae t be sew as e , e i atig a tig the eed t staysttch ad vecast vecast separately. Serges ca save hus preparati tie i large circua hes. I wves, yu ca ether ease the extra u I ess t t
vecast decrativey edged hes; i lsely wve r wve r ktted abrics, yu yu ca ake qu ck ad easy b d hes The tech tech iques that l l w ae rgaized t hel p yu select the best best seas, sea iis hes, ad hes r ay pect pect yu udetake. Serger settig chats r r the techiq ues appea pgs. 96- 1 09) Review Review these these techiques requetly ad peect the es that appea t yu, wrkg additia tech tech ques as yu chse. I yu are sti sti l gettg used t yu serge, ee ee t earl ier sects sects r r hel p i theadg, akg rute adjustets, ad peparig r stitchg.
Seams, Finises and Hems
55
Se a s The bas c three o fourthre fourthrea a sege sege seam the twothea ha rl ne the bas har ne an an the two two an theethea theethea ro ro le seam are a oneste oneste seams. he serger serger rench seam s a twoste seam eare at the serger an co ml ete ete at the conventona conventona mach ne
Bi ourtred ered em ee etti rt, p. .
Basic FourThread Serged Seam he basic serge seam s sewn at th e serge serge exactly exactly as t wou be at the conventona mach ne Wt h gh t sies toget togethe he an raw eges eges al gne sttch sttch the seam rom begnnng to en chan ng a 3in. to in. ta ta at the beg beg nn ng an en o each seam seam Basic Three-Thread Serged Seam heethea heethea seams may be sewn on l ghter fabrics in areas areas that o not bear much strain . Avo Avo th eethea eethea constucton fo heavy stresse seams such as armholes or the nseams of h gh y fitte fitte ants Decrease Decrease sttch length an cutting wth or ghte abc
Bi treetred ered em ee etti rt p .
To avo avo m x n g use neees wth new ones n the box secure neees that have been temoaril y emove emove to the n se o the ront ront anel oor with ati sts sts tae unt you nee nee them agan When eacng neeles note that th ong goove (whch hels channe the threa through the eye) eye) ist ngui shes the ont an the bac s nente to accommoate accommoate the uer looe neee neee
6
S and Seams
Hairline Seam Ha rl ne seams seams can be stitche wth th ree th eas but ae best sewn wth two on very ght fabrcs fabrcs ( you serge serge has the caabty) Fo vey fine seams thea the neel neel e wth a th n th rea such as cotton cotton bastn bastn g threa o twoly twoly olyeste olyeste.. Woo Woo ly nylo n is goo goo for for the the looes because because t wi l wthstan wthstan h gh tensons wthout breakng. Invoke the rolhem
Hairlie Hairlie seam.
settigs to roue very arrow stth withs, a use the arrowest arrowest ossibl ossibl e tt g with so the the ab ab wi ot ol ol Derease Derease the stith le gth a i ease ease the tesos tesos graal y if the stthes ae vs b e rom rom the right se Bi Hairline Seam as hairlie seams ae exatly ie ay threeth threethea ea ha e seam seam o gai, bt the bas s so li ey to streth streth that the if ifeetia ee ee sho be ut to the hghest settg
I bias stethes eve whe feret feret a ee ee is at its h ighest settg, stth the seam o to o a st o water watersolu solu ble stab stab i e Tear stabile away from both ses o the seam after stthg Ay sta stab b er emai emai g i the seam wi l ss ssolve olve at the rst rst
washig, bt tae ae to use a ess oth to evet traes o the stabler rom og the bott bottom om of yor ro or more tis o watersobe stabiies, see 35 Two and Three ThreeTh Thread read Rolled Seams o a ole seam, h oose oose a we tt g with so the the seam seam al owae owae w ol to the seam seam Role seams may be sew sew o l egthwise o osswse ga as a iagoa gas are filt filt to to rol eatly, eatly, as th e bi as threas esae esae om om the seam, seam, gvi g t a sighty aearae o bi as eges eges,, hoose hoose simle ha r e seams seams istea o role seams Crs fabis a tolerate a stf threa, suh as ea amet ylo, but se lexb e threas threas sh as Oo or wool wool y ylo wth softe softe ab ab s
Twtread rlled seam see settig cart, p. 8
Seams Finises and Hems
Serger French Seam Fren seams, w ometely enlose te raw edge n a e mi nay seam, ae q k and easy on te serger eore yo begin, make a sam e : Coose te na rrowest sett ngs yo an, a nd stit a e mnay airline seam Mease t e wdt o yor a rl ne seam and add a sant bt o ease or trni ng to estab s te rel im nary seaml ne nsde te garment seamli ne
Serer reh eam reae arrw hed ede ee e har p. The premary eam ered he eed by a ea ew mahe.
Wt wrong sdes togeter, stit te rel im n ary seam on te garment, as yo did te ate arne seam ease te e m inay seam s never sbjet to stess, yo an el im nate b k wt a stt le ngt sl igty onger tan norm a yor seger as twotread aabilites, byass te er ooer and tread only te owe ooe wt wool y ny on o r anoter sot tread wt a strong stet tat w l not reate bl k Pess t e ai l ne seam to one sde sng te reiminary stiting as a old ne, a gn te rigt sdes togete an d om ete te seam wt te onventona mane Flatlocked Decorative Seam Fatoked seams are oveast wt tree treads, sng ete te et o te ri gt needle, deending on te desed widt o te seam Te wegt o yor
aked derave eam are ered he pued rwe u he he e a; ee e har p. 05
abri and t ead wi l determ ne wi neede to se Sne atoked seams ae stong design eements, be se to test te eet on smal sras to ense tat te seam wil be norm, even, and worty o s attent ion Loosen te needle tenson geneosly so te needle sttes extend to te edge o te abri on te wrong side Tgten te lowerlooe tenson nt te treads ae led nto a staig t ne at te edge o te abri Te eooer tension so d be oosened s gtly to aow te abri to be ed lat ater sttng Seet a narrow ttn g wdt Wt wrong s des togete and aw edges a gned, st it te seam ig t side so tat te stites are a on and al o te edge o te abri P l rosswse on te seam nt te sttes I ie lat T e deorative erlooe sttes o te seam wi l aear on te gt side, and te loose neede sttes wil esembe a tiny "ea adde on te nsd e yo eer te ea-adde ook, stt te abr wt g t sdes togete so tat te ea ladder wil be on te rigt side Test a samle o naow latloki ng by tggin g genty to be se t does not l away om te abr
Se aFinishes Most of you sergi g w i l be for fii shi g seams that you have sew at a covetioa machi e. You c a serge each s ide of the seam a lowace sepaatel y o you ca fiish both ayes of the seam a lowace at the same ti me for smal iterior seams (such as amhoe seams) whee ridges w l ot show though to the outside. Whe seams are to be pressed ope each sid e of the seam aowace shoud be serged separatey befoe pressi g. ither way you ever aga have to have a ugy otched seam al owace o the sde of your gamet. Whe the patte cals fo trimm g ad otch ig sma ecosed seam alowaces s mpl y serge cose to the seaml ie . fact c ipp g serged seam alowaces is ot recomme ded because it causes the stitches to urave. Garmet sectios ca al so be staystitched or "framed with sergi g before seam i g. Most fi e fabrics sh ou d b e overcast with three threads wt h the left eedle omitted for a arower stitch. Needles oopers ad cuttig wdths shoud be balaced al l fishig applcatos.
Narrow overoking can be used to inish areas ike armhoes
Finishing Edges Togehe Covetioal y stitch the seam with the ormal seam allowace. The tri m a d sege both layers of the seam a lowace simu l taeously stitchi g c ose to the origial seaml ie. The trimmi g al owace wil be geerous ad the rema i i g overloced seam a lowace wi l be eat ad flexbe.
Seams Finises and Hems
Sig-yr vrcsig s sig cr p 03 SingleLayer ercasting Wen stte onvetona seams a e to be esse oen, overast ea se seaatey, trmmng away jst eoug from te seam alowae to neaten te ege
Frmig wi vrcsig
6
Slls and Seams
Fraing with ercasting Snge ayers an be staystte wit overlokng befoe beng seame Leave eknes, fangs, a oter en ose seams stte, as te overlokig w l reate too mu b l k Ca on an of te begnnng an e of te seam a lowae a i te a is ose to te abri Dont wory about treas uavelig, as ea seam w i ll be rosse by anoter Wen staystitig two ayers togete, n te ayers at rtia seam alowaes beoe sergig, emovig ins as you aroa tem
Hems Serger hems ae jst as fast efice efice nt an c onven ient as evey evey othe finish on the serger Hems may be be b in-hem me wth or withot an otonal otonal b n hemming foot They may aso be ceannshe with single-ayer overoc overoc ng fo hemm hemm ng by han or wth the the conventonal conventonal mach ne Twn neee hems ease ease ci clar hems an narrow narrow sh irtta irtta hems (n ives ivesa a y cal e e "baby hems hems i n the nsty) fal nto this categoy Role hems rey on a narow stitch an hgh ooer tension to ol the ctting alowance nto a tny hem The aroach s the same as it s fo a role seam bt a roe hem ness t is a ecevi ecevi ng hem has onl y one aye aye Role receving hems ae se to secre ace eg eg ngs or entreex to ne fabcs fo l i ngere o to n cooate stfen i ng mono fila ment ishi ng ne nto ve veyy shee abrics to revent roong Stet Stetche che h em s an fat loce hems ae ecorative treatments that emhasi e the wavy tenenc ies o o bias areas areas an n its ovety threas sch as metacs an i bbons oo oo wone wone in stetch stetche e o r atloce atloce h ems TwoStep Turned Hem Hems can be oveloce in reaation fo na stitching at the ega machi ne o o by han
For arrow topsttched or shttal hems
Fo deepe crcular hems or ee ee c rc ar hems hems se se ease overlocing Overoc the ege with three neees (geneal (geneal y omi tn g the et et neele as na rrow rrow stitch stitch in g oos best) best) an ease ease the abic by settin settin g the fer ferenta enta ee ee sl ighty h ighe than normal normal hs hs wi l shrin the hem to t the s rt ater ater yo trn it
Oerckg ctrs the ease a crcuar hem; see settg chart p. . Here, a macheeased hem s pressed at bere a sttchg
Steam Steam the hem into shae To fin s h the he m can be sewn sewn invsby by han or tostitche wth tw tw n neees See 3 o o s ing fsb e threas threas to baste hems n ace
Overloc the garment's lower ege sin g the neee neee stitchin g of oveoc as a ol ine trn a baby hem an tostitch at the conventona machne with a singe or twn neee
Seams, inises and Hems
61
Bic Rolled Hem Fine an ghweigh ghweigh fabics fabics can be oe ino hems ha esembe hose one by han on French lngere an c hriseni ng esses esses The serger makes qick accrae work of
Basi rlld hm; s sing har, p 00
Move Move he cing w h o he wies seing o eave enogh fabric o rol The sich lengh sho be moerae b is wise o es i for each fabric Some fabrics o easi y an ohers ohers have heas ha wan o escae from he hem Srrsingy increasng he sch engh can be mos efecive ecive in conro in g iffic iffic fabrics since onger siches wi e emi mi he fabic fabic o ean ean inegry whereas shorer sches en o searae searae in y cross heas. Use I ighweigh sof sechy hrea sch as wool wool y nyon ner ver veryy h gh ension i n he er an ower ooers wh reg reg ar sewng h ea ea ner norma ension ension n he neele neele Sof Sof h n woly woly olyese olyese aso wok wokss wel Fo a Qi ck Sq are roec roec ha n coror cororae aess role hemm ing see 8
Rlld riving hm; s sing har, p. 00
6
Sklls and Seams
Rolled Receiving Hem Receivng hems are role over he hea ng of lace sris for herloom acaions Sarch an ress ress he ace an he fabric o sabilize boh f ossbe byass he er ooer an se he mach in e or woh wohrea rea alicaions alicaions re reain ing normal oehem se seings ings
Prepare Prepare the the hem : fod fod p the norma hem a owance, as your patter patternn d i rects, rects, and press Then fold the abr abr c back on itsef, creating creating an S-fod S-fod (sim ar to eastic eastic casing), and a lowing the raw edge to extend extend beyond the rst fod of the S Pn throgh al three layers at once, placing pins well nsde the olded edge. Blind hemmng reqres a precise start start and stop Cear the stitch ngers (p 44 and prepare a cutot cutot to begin begin stitch stitch n g (p 4 5 Th read read the serger w th c olors that bend eas y i nto nto the abrc, abrc, loosen the neede tension, tghten the ower-looper tension, and moderatey loosen the pper ooper tension , as yo wou d for for latocking latocking (p 58 Wth Wth the need need e barey catch catch ing the the fo fo d, stitch w ith the r ight edge of the oot on th e extended porton o the hem alowance Contine arond the c rcle to the starting starting poi nt, clear the i ngers aga aga n, and c hai n of of. U nold nold the hem and p l t lat lat then press The "lea adder may show show in ghter fabrcs, but w l sn k nvisi by into heavier weaves weaves and knts Wth the serger, yo can make decoratve edges that take the place o foded foded hems or fac fac ngs When s ing these fin ishes, remember to trim of yor patt pattern's ern's he m al lowance. C hoose hoose a firm eno gh abri c to support support the edge withot bckling se a novety thread n the oopers, and set the stitch len gth to to provide good coverage.
Knits and bas edges can be stretched whe overockng to create a gorous rufled ruf led edge that resembles c rl y escaroe escar oe Tre b ias and t he cross grain s o knits stretch stretch best; best; avoid fabrics that are too ight to su ppor pportt dense sttching Thread the pper looper with decorative or con trasting thread that gives good covera cov erage, ge, sch as wooly n ylo n Stretch Stre tch the abr c as yo u stitch to enhancee cu rng. enhanc
For a Qi ck Sq are Project Project that incorporates a ettce hem, see p 67.
Seams, Finishes, and Hems
63
Us Your Kowlede Even toug 90 of te time you migt use your serger to nis seams, it doesn't mean tat all te fun and reativity of serging are limited to te remaining 0 of speialied uses e essene of good design is appropriate use of fabri ombined wit well exeuted onstrution If you are like me, you will enjoy te allenge of seleting te best possible settings to add to te professional quality of your work Sine fabri is te key to tenique, and tere are so many possible settings and tread oies, I keep a swat notebook of seam ad em nises organied by fabri pes is way, if I avent sewn wit a partiular pe of fabri for a wile, I dont ave to reinvent te weel and spend preious time experimenting all over again to nd te proper treads, utting widts, and needle tensions I simply refer to te notebook to refres my memo Similarly, I organie more speialied uses of te serger in te same way I staple atual swates of stited trims, deorative tread ombinations, and suessful experiments to index ards and make notes on te number of treads, tension settings, utting widts, dierential feed, and oter optional settings or speialied attaments is andy referene le reminds me of good ideas I ad forgotten about and elps my new employees quikly visualie more reative uses of te serger tan tey may ave enountered in fato settings In tis apter I sare te onveniene and umulative experiene of my notebook wit you e best seams ems, and tread pes for routine nises (and te serger settings for reating tem) are found in te oto Index, wi begins on p 96 e more speialied and reative uses are grouped in te ontext of pial proets for lari
64
Worg ts Knits are the most fun of all to sew on the serge Serger seams are quick and easy and most knit styling is simple so pjects are not dcult to nish The lexibility of serger stitches allows them to move with the knit without breaking so every knit fabric can be stretched hrontally to become se ribbing for neckbands and cus. i e is icl ue al weghs, om ghwegh s jeseys hrough mei umwegh wools a coos, o heavy pa veves a veours. Ay fiber ca be i e. As i woves, he wegh of he fabric epes o he hic ess (eer) o he yar, he umber of sas (pl ies) wise ogehe, a he sye o i. Doube is are ie wh wo ses of eeles a have o igh o wrog se; s ge i s show he o a bac of si gl e sches a have a " a a "pu sie Ierlocs wil o u, a he crimpe yas of mae jerseys absob I gh a yiel a u , mae fi sh
66
sing Your Knowledge
QU IC K SQUARE P ROJ ECT: LETUC E-E DG E COWL-N ECK SCARF hoos a i whou a obvious igh ad wog sid Masu ad u a sua o gooduaiy i ha asus abou 22 i (da a a asu aoud you o d i h xa sz you you i has o body o wigh you gh wa o a a shallow osswis ag Ma a u h o ah ossgai dg ( 6 3 Sgsa h wo ghwis dgs u si g h fou had sgd sa o is ( 56 Fold h ub i half wog sds i
A Elegat Kit Top Any dssy ni sc as si o ayon jsy o vlou s a iy si no an gan i o A sgd ozona band o s abc maks an ga nis fo ncl i n and cfs o a fi n ni o Choos naow bands o cw ncs ad sho svs wid ons fo lncs o nback cffs fo ong slvs C ou h o accodig o an dicions (To su o i b s o coos a an inndd o knis)
1
Reinforce the shoulder seams with bias seam tape.
T ad bo nd s of sg wi gamn ad and bo loos wi a sudy sch had sc as wooly nyon Sa wi basic osam sngs as ndicad in cha on 96 maki ng adsmns as ncssay o s yo fabic Sw h so ld sams (i noc ing m wi bias a o bi as ico as ncssay} Wo with Kits
67
To etemine the ct with of yor sef ribbn g: Fo crew bans etermine the esie finishe wth of the ban obe it an a a seam a l owance to both sies For trtleneck bans an rol back cffs qar e the esre finishe wth of the ban before aing a seam alowance to both sies. Mark the ct with on the horzontal gra n of the fabc a n ct a geneos y long str. o etem in e the ci rcmference of the str ob e the str engthwise an stretch it comfortaby over yo hea o wrst Pin Remove the ban an ma rk the ocaton of the in to in icate the seam ine A seam al owances Serge the centerback seam of the self ibbing. Fol it n half lengthwise ight sies ot.
2 Masur and mark h u widh h urlnk n h hrinal grain h abri
3 Mark h ldd urlnk band and h nklin in quarrs.
6
sing Your Knowledge
Mark the ribb ng tbe i n q artes (the seam w be at cente back) Mark the cente font an back of the to neck ne () istibte the ban evenly abot the neck inning seams an marki ngs together at center front back an shoers Stetch the seam ban to the neckin e sing the ctot metho (. ) to stat an sto at the same o nt of the neckine seam. Press the seam a owance towar the garment
Sma ribbing areas ike cuffs are easier to apply as lat peces Pin th e seeve sel ibbi ng o the righ side of the s eeve edge, raw edges a igned di stributng the s eeve ful ness evenly. Stetchseam the band to he gament 4; press the seam toward he seeve. Sew the s eeves to he a mhole on the fat (befoe cl os ng the side and underarm seams) alignng th e appropriate patten symbos. Serge-seam the s ide u nderarm, and cuf in one conti nuous seam Use a tapestry needle to run n the th read tai at the wrist edge Hem the botom us ng the b nd hem method (p 63 or win neede topstitch in g at the conventona mach ne
4 Stretch-seam the cuf (or neckband) to the garment.
5 Serge-seam the side, underarm and cuf in one continuous seam
Wo wth
Kits
69
Taored Fishes
Tailored detailing emphasizes the lines and seams of ce interest to so-nish simple designs and adds s w wovens such as gabardines, twills, linens, tweeds, jlannels, and bradcloths The better the fabric and the simpler the desn, the more the detailing will show. Use the conventional machine and the serger together for basic interior construction, then let the serger help you prepare your pocket edges or create tailored details such as tucks, decoativejlatlocking, thread outlines, and custom braid for monograms.
Thread Accents Texture ovelty threas ca oute seams or the geometric shaes of colars, cufs, a ocket fas Treat ecoratve a ovety threas as art o the overal esig, choosig them to bl e, h gh ght, or accet colors i the weave or esig Match the weight of the threa to the weig ht of the fabric.
Tuckng Serger tucks are a goo way to a etai ls to ta ore styles. hey e hace the texture o the weave a, by rawig the eye to the i rectio of the tuck, uerscore the vertica or horizota asects of the esig s houette Sice the tuck is overcast, the ooer threa wl always show, a the th rea selectio becomes a esig eta Garmet threa s customar y use the eee. 70
Using Your Knowledge
TI PS FOR TUCKS a yu u ds ad pa bf un u h an •
•
Sh us lhws ssws a
Ss sh h sd up! Sh a us h sa d a u appaa •
had a ls daly b sh h nx u •
D pa u s ls h h fd d w d shy h pvus u s bw h pss •
Sa sh a va ss us wh h u; sa a hzal ss us wh h p u •
ss va u s away h
ss hza us dw
wd us v h h d
S us a n sun sas hy d nd h xa suy f h hads •
Lhwh wpy hads b nd wl, pacuay f h u s vy naw ad wl phasz h xu h uc Nvly hads und hh nsn h upp l p uh dsac h y f h vcasn had and add a cl acc yu an F cnas accs vcas wh wl y ny dcav had ad sch wd ucs hh h h had Ms ucs a schd n ups Wdhs and had dal n ay b unf vad S h s chas p 1 04 f basc and dcav ucs
ca a ucd fabc, dcd h wdh and nub f ucs Cu a squa an abc w h n uh as xnd 3 n byd a ds f h pan whn u n s cpl a fd lns pss h fabc, sachn f apppa. Psn h d h u n h a n and l hly scach a fld n f h f s u w h h pn f a p n ( ) sadyn h pn aan s h d f h u l. Th pn w l fa bw h h ads f h an ad s h cssn hads Avd usn u ch pssu as h s a dan f un fn fabs.
1 Scrtch he fod nes with pn nd ruer.
Tailored Finishes
71
A pn pace through the fabric at a 5° an ge secures the beg nn ng o the tuc k to the i ron ng boar enab li ng you to pul the fabric taut an press crsp ols
2
A pn wrks as a hrd hand ng yu pu h abrc au as yu prss
A contrasting or harmon ii ng texture threa such as pear cotton to the upper looper (See p 30 for tips on working with ecorative threas) Increase the upperlooper tensi on by egrees unti smal beas of the threa orm at the sttch in g ne Maintain normal tenson an garment threa n the neee to hol the beas of threa then oosen the lower-ooper tension so the fabri c can be encase in threa wthout buc k ng A enser sttch ength such as 2mm creates uniform threa beas on the stitching ine Stitch th e first tuck the n crease an press subseque nt tuck nes (3). Continue n ths manner unti a the tucks are sttche
3
Sch h frs uck, hn cras and prss subsqun uck ns.
4
Psn h pa vr h fabrc ha has bn uckd
72
When al the tucks are ma e pace the pattern over the fabr c a n procee to cut out the garment
Decorative Edging Co lars, c ufs, and pockets may be fin shed with the same combi nation o threads to compete the styling details Snce two-ply blendin g thead w il not cover extero edges, cood nated garment sections shou ld be stitched, tuned and pressed as your pattern drects Seams shoud be timmed to a scant 1/8 i n . befoe turn ng a nd pressing so the seam a owance wl ft entey with n the serging i ne Serged edging hods faci ngs in p lace without understitching Set th e serger to match decoative tucks (see the chart on p. 1 04), o finetune you r setti ngs on a test scrap Assembe the co lar or cuff and sttch the tri m befoe attaching the section to the garment You must be extra vgi ant not to pu I and stretch curved aeas as you agn them in front of the toe o f the presse oot
Decorative Flatlockng Any seam that mig ht be embe lished with pipng can be fatocked wth decoatve thread Plan the texture and c oor of the thead as you woud any design eement: to harmonie, hghight, o accent a partcu a detai of texture, line, or coor.
Collars and cuffs can be fnshed wh decor ative hread.
F at ib bon threads give good coverage and a softy gleamng finish . hey can aso be chai ned by themseves in to attractive brad or monogams or other decoatve outl i nes •
Textured threads such as pea cotton or wool y nyon yie ld matte fin ishes an d ess successfu chai ned trims •
I you ke the way the neede and lowerooper threads appear to frame the decorative upper ooper thead, emphasize ths wi th creative contasts rather than b end ing threads t s al so wise to be sure the trm s washable if you p an to gve the garme nt ha rd wea •
TIPS FOR FLATLOCKING Bypass the spnd e i the thread has a tendeny t wap.
ontr the stith width by us ng eithe the e r right neede and turn rhe sett ngs n Be sure the stith s wde enugh nt t pul l ut the abri
Fatked deratie thread an repae pipin in a eam
o sege fltlocked sem Prepe ec secton to be jo ned s you pttern d rects (e pocket bnd n te poto t eft s been nterfced nd pessed prio to ftocki ng i t to te pocket Fnetune you ftock setting on scps (see te top ct on p. 1 5, mtci ng te widt of te sem to te weig t of te fbic nd desi ed covege of te sem. Pin l te elements of te sem togete nd sege
Decorative Chaining without Fabric
Chainin withut abri reate a deratie braid
4
sing Your Knowledge
A few dustments in stitc engt nd tenson e necessy to cn decortive brds (see te bottom c rt on p. 5. etn te bsc ftock tedings nd settngs (see te top crt on p 1 5, but etun te need e tension to norm. oosen te uppe oope to mke rge loops (bypss te tension togete i f te lowest tenson setti ngs do not poduce even resuts, nd tigten te owe loope to mntn te spe of te br d I ncrese te sttc engt s necessry to keep te stitces fom jm m i ng on te stitc finge witout te feed dog nd fbic to crry tem wy
MAKI NG MONOG RAMS WIH DECORATIVE CHAI N I NG Segng over a strand of fusible thread lets you bond your trim diectly to the gament n any desgn you want. Holding the thread n a cup next to the serger (sometimes its moe convenient to hod the cup n your lap), gude t under the pesser foot fom font to back, positionng it diectly ove the stitch fnger. (Temporarily taping the end behind the presser foot w secure it until it is ncopoated into the chain.) Avoid theadi ng the needes or oopers with fusibl e thead, as it can melt d isastrousl y duri ng pressng.
Chaining over fusible thread makes a press-on braid that can be used for monogramming.
Lightl y outli ne your monogram or design on the ght side of the fabric with a disappearing marke Dot the out ne spar ingy with a fabric gue stck and arange the brad over the marked pattern, pessing the glu ed areas wth you fngers. If you are bondi ng fusible thread, protect the iron with a transparent press coth ( organdy works wel l) so you can see what you're doing wthout getting gue on the soe plate. f you pefer nonbonded applications, hand-tack the brad n pace.
Fu se the chain in place, using a scrap of organdy to protect the iron from glue
Tailored Finishes
75
QU C K SQUARE PROJ ECT: L N E D EYEG LASS CASE WTH TUC KS AN D MONOGRAM
ry ot a vaty of dorativ taord dtai ls wt so l ind yglass ass Ct a rtangl of fabri O in by 20 in Mak and stt t dorativ tks of yor o to b s t as Ct a li n ing to fit t tkd tangl, and fs t li ni ng to t wrong sd of t fab Fold t tkd fabri i n alf rosswis, and rar and oston a tadain onogra btwn t tks, if dsid
6
sng
Knowledge
Using yor yglasss as a gid, tra a attrn on a of a, sing a to nsr tat t sids a stragt, and rving t to s gtly Pl a t botto of t attn agai nst t rosswis fold of t fabri, and t ot t as nfod t as and srg t v of a to dg Rfold t as and, startng at t botto fold, srg trog a ll layrs to los a s id Fo a q ik sold r sta, ontin to srg wtot fabri for t ngt of t sta bfor losing t sond sid, tis t swing fro to to botto.
TimeSang Constction ids Sm t rin g dt s dn't shw n th tsd f th grmnt bt st s citicl t th finl ppnc s th ns tht d. Lt y r sg gv y prt bhi ndth-scns h p f pfssin s lts vry ti m Mock Hong Kong Finish Th Hng Kng fn ish is nmd fr th islnd's skild trs wh finish th sms f n nd si k n d li nn ckts with bis bnding. Y cn mk nt sy mck Hng Kng finish with y sgr. T hrds tht cv w sch s wl y nyn bst in bth lps (s th bttm chrt n p 03 slct th crs t h rmn iz cntrst r ccnt Staystitched Pocket Seam Aowances Th sgr im ints l gny fm tpsttching pckts s ny thrd y k (grmnt thds fin nd s bncd tnsins f nrm thrthrd vckng. Sg th bttm dg first Pss it n psitin vr th pckt. Srg ight vr th fd whn vrlck in g th tw sids. Prss pstn th pckt thn dgstitch it t th grmnt with th cnvntn mchin.
A mck Hng Kng finish dds crfu ccn h sms n his jck Inside Waistband Finish s th srgr t mk nt b kfr wstbnd fin ish.
In trfc th wistbnd n d th sm tsid dg t th skit r pnts. n sh th i nsd wstbnd dg with b ncd thrthrd vrlck igning s th sgr tim s mst f th sm lwnc nd s th tp f th vlckin g will cncd with smi n Cls th nds nd trn th crnrs ight sd t ld th wstbnd t th nsi d f th sk rt nd psitin t s th sm l wnc xtnds sight y bynd th w st sm n d th tps f stitchs l ignd wth th stitching lin
Us h rck sich finish h inrir wisbnd nd sm wncs f skir r pns
Pn nd d tchsttch frm th ight sd thgh l yrs.
ailored Finises
Fes Det g Specialoccasio fabrics age fm lhtweight orgaas to sumptuous velvets. Sheers like orgady ad orgaa ca be hadled like ay delicate fabric. Bwse thugh Chapter 3 ad the Photo dex to d seam ideas. Tucks om the tailored details i this chapter also look great o crisp sheers but avoid them i heavier pile fabri or weaves that would sag. Most other speci l occson fbrics re best seme convenionl y n fin ishe wth sn geye ovecsing Yo' l be eighe o see how he serger hn les poble m fbrcs ht fry esiy n wh q c k work i mkes of hemming bg, fll skis.
Fcy Hems emmng he lrge sweepng skis, tlle veils, n csces of rffles h e comm on n spec loccsion n bil we cn be frusring, t me consmng choe by hn or by he conventon mchi ne Let the serger o the work fo yo efe to pges 1 n 2 fo how to ese lrge ci cl r hem o prepe nrrow topsttche hem ("bby hem The seger so lows yo o cete moe elbote fncy hems n fin shes: Yo cn hrerce the ege of u l e veiling, rol sppotng mono fil men no roopy fbic , o embel l sh iny rol le eges wih ecortve t hres.
Us now s m to mk your own custom i bbons! Cut strps of s ognz or ogndy nd fin is bot dgs wit t ny fodd m s to crt cu stom bbons for r onmnts sss o gft wps
Cree fesive ribbs i fbri m rmes by seri d rimmi b edes f srip Narrow Sheer Hem Som s fbrcs suc s ognz nd orgndy fry too mu c fo succssful ol mmi ng nd you wil nd to mk nrrow sr m
old sml m lownc isngg t knf nd stitc mm m ov t fold B vy crful not to low t stitc in g l in to wv s too muc fbc to t gt of t nd w l ro l nd cus unvn stitcs i m t css fbr ic to t dg of t sttc in g on t wong s d
bun c un dr t pssr foot or if t sttc ng looks irgu wit sort nds of t nt pok ng out of t m Grmnt trd my b usd trougout or comb ind wt wooly nyon o twopy polyst dpndi ng on t mo unt of covg you wnt. trd wl strtc nd cus t dg to cur s igt y s you iron t
Terwy sbilizer supprs melli em red ri seer ulle
Narrow Thread Tracing o trdtc nt nd tu l sk ts st t sgr for o mm n g wit wid cutting wdt g lowr oopr tnsion nd bncd ndl nd upp loop tnsons Strt wt 1 .5m m sttc ngt; sortn it if t stitc i ng ooks too sps nd ngtn t f t fbr c tnds to
Festive Detailing
de hred rin n be ppied ne nd ue
T PS FOR THREAD TRACG h bia propri o a u au h h g o url wh pr iria o .7 o y h urlig o hra raig bu b aru you ar ryig o orol h urg wih abovora g a h u o h wi o ap a proru ro h ih i g
h i g propr o ai hra au bia ara o ur i a lar aho o oola llg la h o h ba o ahi v h i u r or o raigh grai o avoi i •
sing Your Knowledge
Wide thread tracin o proc yo r ho ro h raw g o a u r ir (or o ach h g o a l ovrr o a boc ovrca a w corav borr Oi rolh g tg c h l o y a ich ly w h a hra ha covr wl, uch a rayo rbbo or wooy y o
Continuous thread tracin o rac a coi uou g wh ch g vil a hapc or i lar co o vi ig o cro by a ro c orr a arg arc o cra a o ova hap Wih h rgr a h a rrow g or rol hg h op char o p 98, ar a op h rac ouli a h a po uig h co ho crb o p
QUICK SQUARE PROJECT: HAI R ORNAMENT Meaue a u evea quae eae ab eah abu i. by 1 2 i. he e laye yu ue he puie he ae w l l be.
Ma a veap l e 1/2 . 1 i. i ie e h ee. Fl he e a bae he veap i e he ee I ie. epea he he ie.
vea a he aw ee eah piee wih hea a i pp. 79-80).
u l up he bai he ahe al aye gehe.
Laye he piee ehe a habae he ehe vei lal y huh he ee wih hea a lg ihe.
e yu aiai! i ab i ap wih e he ei h b ae qui iai a le eive hai ae. ae u ibb p. 79, a ie bw.
Cmplete te prjet by and sttng te gatered edge te ar ament t a mb
Lace Appliqu ae appi q i a ppua h he he, leeve, a e pea ai wea, bi a gw eepwea, a ligee. Pepae he lae appl iq a y pae eg i e. Tae he hape he l ae he eeivi g aea he ga e iyig exee hape a h a pible. F i ih he ae ie wh a aw balae heehea vel. Ree pp. 67 hel p w h i e a ue e. Prens areas tat wll reeve applqu wt tree-tread verlk.
Festive Detaili
81
MONOFILAMNT HM o c gv sot, iy bic sigty wiy g by g ov ooflt. otol t y stff cls o ooi t t t bg g of t s by tp g t positio bi t pss oot Wt t spoo sc i plst c fz bg o cp, sttc t f l t tt bov t gt sttc fg, ci 6 i o 7 . wtot bic ov t tp t t ist fw i cs to ow t c to flow fly o t sttc f g. ooit is so s ippy tt t wl l t to pl l ot o t s, bt yo c tp t bgg o t i t t c i to o it i pc.
A moofim m i isp fiis o d of fimy fbi.
sing Your Knowedge
t bgi ig o t cttg l o t fbc wit cs o ovb to lp g yo y s yo t b c. Al g t wt t g o t cttg bl posto t fbc gt si p t t t. As t fbc bgi s to ol ov t ooflt, s yo t to s tt t ooit ovs sootly wy fo t l o t pss oot wtot llowg t bc to bc p ov t At t o t , c ov t ooflt ot 8 i to i bo pss g t fot of t to ct. Sc t o t ooit wt tp t l yo sttc t cossig s
Coo moofim by sui i wi p bii of sm d si i u s you sw
Gaered Rufes Gteng long rues s one o tose re coes on conventon m ci ne tt te serger cn el im nte or you. Let it cortle wy gterin g s t stitces Te tediou s co re o pul n g treds n l ong edges s competey e mi nted n d tougts o brekin g teds re bn sed your bi c s too evy to gter wt ong sttc engt nd mi mu m dierentil eed you cn pucse gtern goot ttcme nt t t wi l moe tn py or tsel te te ist mjor proect. I you preer sotl y drped ufles to vey perky ones cut te stri ps to be rufed on te bs s consumes moe bc but t wi l be wel wort te proessionl resu t Si nce te sege secu res te gters s t stitces dj ust you r tos see p 53 o dvce nd test on scrps beore woking on te grment It s lso good de to cut some etr en gt to ensue tt you ni sed strip doesn't l sort. Sem engts o te rule stip i requred nd em te rufe ccordi ng to you design c oce
Te serer makes quck wrk f a fese ede f l rues
I you e not usng spec gteri ng oot ncese te stitc lengt to 4mm nd incese te dierentil eed to te mimum I you e usi ng speci l gterin g oot ol ow t e mnucture's instuctons.
Some gtern g eet permt you to ttc te rues to te bic t te sme tme However ts reques suc precse mesur ng t t ts best to gter septely n d jon lte ess rppng
Tred bot needes blnce te loope nd neede tensons nd sttc Te ed ng o te gtered strip w be netly ovecst nd te gters wil be ttctve y sttced. Overcst te ecev in g edge o te sem beoe jo n i ng te ule strip to t e gment.
Festive Detaling
1
Cu 2 wd b p od, d mk c
Bias Tubing B is bi g is dreded core for my sewers. Wi e serger b g s rdc o sy esy o mke. sces d rims e y sem l ow ces perfecy, d sce e sces "gve we yo pl l legs rig side o yo wo' ge e popped sems c ri bigs sew o e coveiol mci e. C 2 wide srps of fbrc o e re bs o e desred e g pls few i ces of srce Fold e bis srp i f legw se wro g sd es ogeer. Mesre e desred fiised wd from e fod d mrk sicig e Adjs e wd of e bis srp d e posiio of e sc g e o e sfess, weig d s pperi ess of e fbric. Sl ippery lgweg fbrcs r e mos esy d mke e i es srips Sf sis d brocdes so d be wider Mesre e desred fised wd of e bs srp d esbl is fold g de o e ef of e eed e o e ro ple wi pece of rs's pe
2 U od oc o cu dow o buk o m ow o b p.
4
sng Your Knowedge
Selec e rrowes cig wid orm sic leg, d blced esios If yor mc i e s wored cpbi l iy seec i s lso o c dow o e b l k of e sem lowces (see e boom cr o p 98 for segs. Allow e k ives o rm wy wever sem lowce fl s o e rig of e blde keepi g e fold of e bs liged w e ped ro ple gide s yo sic d overcs bo yers ogeer
3 Su o oop
Ti m h op g o h s p gl wy om h sm Psh h po o loop hogh h sip sc h lch sy-p syl ov h ovlock s m h op () Th hook shol ch ov h mm g, h ch o h shol pic h sml bo '/4 i blow
u o d o b p
p l g h cll y ow o h b o s h , hook h g ov o o h h sp ls, bck g slowly wy o m v so who llowig h o l is gp o h s g g Us h ss o h s p s bc o boh hs so yo c pv b c hi g s yo wok h s o h bs ov sl Th ovcs sm ll owc mi s cl isi s l l ig yo w h ick l l i g i cs h wh o h sm l lowc by ic sg h cig wh csig h h sos Sc o o h b g o h ioig bo sg pi ° gl so yo c p l Sm h b g o s h sichs sgh h sm
B s b ig w h h sm lowc ol s mks v y sc sp h hos wl C h pop lgh o spgh sps sw hm o s yo p cs
4 Hook o oop u o pd o p m o you u ub
Festive Deaing
To mak buo loop ap ba ubg or pa ad rg o poo o ablr Easy Button ops engt s of bs tubng cn repce purcse cori ng o ribbon wen ptterns cosings o esign ets cl for ecotive lces n ties
Mrk strgt in e to epesent te se ine on p iece of stb zer Center te buttons over te li ne, spci ng tem s tey wi be sewn to te grent. Mrk ec se n te top o te button . emove te buttons n oop te bis so tt te r k ngs e vsbe wt n te oop n te bs etens to te cutting l i ne. e oops wil resembe tny croquet wi ckets. Mrk n cut te bis tubi ng ccoing to te instuctions tt foow in Buttons n rogs.
6
sing Your owledge
Tpe te cut loops to te stb zer n stystitc te in poston Aig n t e rw ege of te stbi ize oops ove te buttono e si e of te c osing, n stysttc to te grment j ust n se te se i ne Te te stb il ize wy before fc ng te c si ng. Buttons an ogs Wen i vi ing onger engts o bis tubng nto sorte segents for loop cosings n strps, rk te mesureent of ec segent pus esre se ownces n use te serge to cut n n is te t ny ens of ec segent. Ovecsting wi l sl igty ftten te segment ens n ke te esier to pin n sttc nto grment ses
Prpar a dagram, and us bas tubng to crat buttons and frgs n fabrc to matc t garmnt.
or Ch nese buttons, c ut bi as tubig 1 6 in . on g and fol low your di agram for the oop formatons The tubg seamlne shoud be on top, and the loops shoud be relatvey open whl e you shape them. Ease ad shape the oops w h i l e p u l n g the ends to tghten them to form the button Cl ip o excess ends a nd tac k them to the button . •
Fo r frog clos ings, keep the seamed sde up ad cut the ends o top. Secure the crossngs with t ny sttches, tapng ad stitch ng the frog as t forms •
E R E COM E S E B R I D E ! Festive detais are patcuary welcome i brida applcatos Qui ck tiy hems ca be used to prepare ski rs ad s eeves ad trais for ace app iqus or other decoratve fiishes. •
•
Thread-traced hems are a good fnsh for veis and headpieces
Bas butto oops are oe used o brida gows for back ad wrst closgs as we as more special zed fuctos such as fger oops to secure the ponts of Juet seeves to the had ad skrt oops to i the tra out of the way for dac ng •
To create more complex frog clos ngs, draw your own di agrams. S im arly tape ad stitch the c ross ngs to secure the frog as t forms. •
A trad-tracd vl and Jult fngr loops can b cratd wt t srgr.
Worg Deicate Fabcs Dlicat fabrics inclu lightwht silks ai voils shr chons lacs thin crps an gossamr batists Whn lightwight fabri ar also sh th samnishs ar visibl thugh th fabri an must b consir part of th sign
T sgr s so ffctiv spy t ro l ig ms swg ti y sms tt yo c rtr srpr sg y p o t fo most of yo ct-fbc costctio cos It sws fiss i li sms tt r f oug fo v t most i scg y, w offri g sty costrctio scty cig iry fbcs. Comb l igtwgt trs tt wtst g tso wtot brki g gmt tr for costructo sms o ivsibly joig c. srv t covtiol mc for zigzggi g t y topsttc sms to m t cors for stystitc i g fficu t s bfo sgg. Wt you r pptit fo srg g cts by mki g ly sy si lk scf, wc s simpl y o mm o l for sis, bfor movig o to mor clgig pocts suc s igi, sp wr, v crstig rsss Yo srgr w l sv you tim p ct mor pofssolookig slts.
sng o Knowledge
QU ICK SQUARE PROJEC: SCARF You can creae an mpressive, nearly instant scarf from a preprinted scarf prn (sold by the yard or any solid color or appealing print. Some fabric sores car ry bordered scarf pr nts, or ry an a ll -over print of sk crepe de chine or chion that coordinates with your wardrobe. Trm he p urchased scarf panel or cut a square of fabrc to the desred size Edge all fo ur sides wh ro a pain rolld hem (p 62. Corners shoud be trimmed accordi ng o h i nsrucons on pp. 6-47 and sewn contin uousy by clear ing he stch fingers (p. 44). Run threads n nealy.
TIPS FOR CHOOSING THREAD our thread choce is a dsgn dec ison tha depends on he effec you want to achieve. o accent a coor or creat a conrasng border, use threads that provide maximum coverage, such as woolly nylon or ribbon, n both loopers and a dense sch length, such as 2mm Use garment thread in the needle. •
or minima coverage to bend into the background coor, selec woply polyester for the loopers and garmen thread or twoply poyester for he neede Inrease the sich ength for less dense stitching, but not so far as to let un sight ly threads escape from he rolled hem However, since scarves are usualy cu and roed on straigh grains , and silk is a close weave, sray hreads will not usually be a problem •
For custom effects or to harmonize wih strong prns, change thread coors as appropriate o each side. If you change coors for custom eecs, the ends must be run n (p. 50) •
C a sole d Tap Pts Ay geie bc s stble o this cmiso e d tp-pts set: ch mese, tcot, ghtweight cepebck st, o voe The oly ticky pt s the ot shp g o the cmsole Yo c sve tme hee by selectg ptte withot mch shp g Eth e wy, the poject sho d tke o moe th plest mo g's o eve g's wok, om cttg ot to i ish ig
With th s d si m poects, sem g d ish g c be doe s im teosly si g h e sem techqes tht e ie eo gh o the most dsceig eye, dd mmesby to the des g eect o shees, d oe stdy costctio secty Tse these tech i qes to ghte o hdkeche, se yo covetiol z gzg to m ite coes (pp 94-95, d yo hve lovely g o y em e celebto sch s Mothe's y o bd sh owe Joi pe im iy sems: sg the bs h e sem (p 57 oi the st s de sem o the cmsole d the cete ot d side sems o the tp pts, semi g ey cotosy Cp the peces pt te sem g, the pess eve oe s de sem o the cmi soe d the cete bck d cotch sems o the pts ope so yo c co mplete the ce ssemb y o the lt Pepe the tim ssembly To c ete st p o yo ces, tot the mesemets o ll es to be timmed o the cmisole d tp pts, mese both eg opeigs o the pts d t he top d bottom edges o the cmsoe Ct the ce stips to eq the tot mes emet p l s 1 2 i
sng Your Knowledge
Starch and press the lace before serging the seam. Rotate the upper knfe out of poston 1 and serge wth the twothread nvs ib e seam (see th e bottom chart on p 9 8) . Staysttch the lace to the seam i ne at the conventional machne usng a norma stitch length of 8 to 1 sttches per inch and a slighty reaxed upper-thread tenson. To trim the bottom of the camsole and the egs of the pants cut one length of the lace assemby to ft each leg openng and another to fit the bottom of the cam soe Serge as before; you may opt to staysttch conventional y or not dependi ng on your confdence and experence. Agai n press the hem away from the fabri c a nd toward the lace to avod buk Srg h ac wih a w-hra d iiibl am wih h uppr kif rad u f pii.
Thinkng of the two garments as one unt wll help save time rethreadng and hangng serger settngs Plan to on as many seams as possble assemby in e fashon ha n ng eah new seam wthout utting the hain between setons, before movng on to detaied areas L kewse when workng wth bands of joi ned laes or trms save tme by assemblng one long ontinuous strip of oined aes then apply and trm to garment measurements as requ red Th id f h ap pa ca b rgd i ri wihu cuig hrad r pauig bw ci
Working with Delicate Fabrics
91
Ppr h bs po ns Sch h cmsol nd ghy mk h sml in on h righ sid o h bi c wh w-so b bc mk C ny sq rom h po in o h sm lownc ov h bs, lig n ng on con o h co wh h p o h po n. C s m l sq om h gh-bs sm lownc. Fh m h sm l ownc o 3mm or 2 n on h ndrm sid o h ghbs poin p. Th mmd r wll smb n L shp
2
Mark sami wi a war-soub mark
Pp h cnr ron: S lsh h sm lownc o h sm lin cnr on Sprd h slshd sm l ownc so h w dg oms srgh n bwn h wo poins, lowng h s o h bc o d o rom h slsh n d om l g o d bow . C s p o h c ssmb ly o q h pon-o-pon lin ps 4 n , l gnn g h cnr o h lc prn wih h s sh cnr on (3 Convnonly sysich h lc o h cm sol s yo did o h g opnng. To nsr h h schng s c l h bgi nn ng n d nd o h sm mk n "i rpln oldod h
3
Prpar op dg o amiso by markig sami rimmiK ad rig a pa.
92
Using Your Knowledge
nds o th lc nd undm s d o th ft bst-point sm l ownc wy rom th bst pont ctots t 45° ngl (4). Stbi l iz th od wth tists tp or pns. S m ly, rtn to th srg to roll-hm th lc to th cmso btwn th bust points 5 To roll-hm th lc to th cmso t th srg, ncrs cuttng width to 3mm nd st th mchn fo roll hmming. Lft th pss oot nd poston th ndl cl y t th bg nn ng o th sm ov th f bst point, bing s not to sttch throgh th hdr of th c tht tnds byond th bc. Us sm r cton t th nd o th sm
4 Aer clppng the cente spread the camsole top n a straght lne and tape the lace nto poston.
Agn , pss th h m towrd th c so th h dr of th c mns lt nd bric rol ls ovr t n rcving hm o trim th u ndm nd bck of th cmiso, c los th rmning sd sm nd stch th cmi sol nd fin l stp of th c ssmbly Pn th lc round th bck nd undrrms o th cm sol top om bst po nt to bst po nt, cntring th pttn t cntr bck nd lowng th nds o th lc to tnd ovr th pvosly sttchd cnt potion.
5 Roll-hem the lace to the camsole between bust ponts Fold the ends of the lace out of the way so you won't sttch them nto the seam allowance
Again , staystitch the lace from bust poin t to bust point around the back and und earm of the top Fold the fabrc and lace out of the way at the ap ex of each corner (6) as you did peviously. Return to the serger, clea the sttch f ngers and a ise the pesse foot and needle Position the apex of the left bust-point cutout di rectly under the needle w ith the L portion of the cutout flush against the in side of the lowe knife blade 7. Sege the hem lace to the ca miso le as befoe, ben g carefu l not to stitch through the head er of lace at the end of the seam over the ight bust point.
6 Fold the ends of the lace out of the way at the start of the underarm seam on both sides of the corner so they won't be caught in the stitching
To m te the corners at the cente front, press al l hems towad the lace, arrangng excess lace at the center i nto a fold so the fol d l ine extends vetical ly upward beyond the center front of the cami sole (8)
•
8 Miter the coers at center front, pressing the lace so the fold lines are vertical.
7 With the stitch fingers cleared position the folded lace at the start of the underarm seam under the needle with the the inside of the lower knife blade.
L
portion of the cutout flush with
Photo Index This photo index will help you to review and compare serger seams andfnishes, and to locate them in the book You will see at a glance various treatments you can use, gruped under fve headings: basics, hems, utility and decortive stitches, specialty stitches, and complete prjects Where apprpriate, photos are accompanied by a chart with the serger settings that prduced the stitch.
Basics B A S I C F O U R - TH R E A D S E R G E D S E AM
See page
Left needle
Garm ent thread
Normal
Right needle
Garment thread
Normal
Up per looper
Garment th read
Normal
Lower looper
Garme nt thread
Normal
Sttch length
Normal (2mm to 3mm)
Cutting width
Normal for abr
Di ferent ial eed
Normal
NEEDLES/ LOOPERS
THREAD
TENSON
FOUR-HREAD SEAM FOR L1 G HWE IG H KN IS
SERGER SETTNGS
S th discussion of ovrstitching, which bgins on pag 5 .
NEEDLES/ LOOPERS
BASIC HREEHREAD SEAM THREAD
TENSON
SERGER S ETTNG S
S pag 56.
WOHREAD ROLED SEAM
NDLS/ LOOPRS
HRAD
Let needle
Ot
Rht neede
Grent t hred
Upper ooper
Bypss
Lower looper
Ce nylo n
Nor
Hih
SRG R SNG S
S pag 57.
WO-H REA D S EAM OR JO 1 G LACE
Sttch enth
2 to 2.5
Cuttn width
Widest 3
Dierentil eed
Nol unless brc puckers
Optionl settins
Adjust serer or rol hein; or threethred rol led se, thred upper looper with c er nylon under hh tenson.
NDLS/ LOOPRS
HRAD
et needle
Oit
Riht needle
Grent thred
Upper ooper
Bypss
Lower looper
Grent th red
NSON
Nor
Norl
SRGR SNGS
S pag 9
oto ndex
Stitch lenth
2
Cuttin wdth
Dsene upper knie
Dierent eed
to prevent curln
Optonl settins
Adust serer or rol hei n
FRENCH SEAM
NEEDLES/ LOOPERS
THREAD
Lef neede
Omit
Righ needle
Gamen hread
pper looper
Bpass
Lower loope
Wooll non
TENSON
Nomal
igh
SERGER SETTNGS Sich lengh
2.mm o 3mm
Cuing widh
Narrowes mm)
iferenial feed
Normal un less fabric puckers
Opional seings
Adjust seger for rol he m m i ng
See page 58.
Hems EASED OVERLOCK HEM
NEEDLES/ OOPERS
THREAD
eft needle
Omi
Righ needle
Garmen hread
Nomal
ppe looper
Garmen h read
Normal
Lower looper
Garmen head
Normal
TENSION
SETTINGS Sich lengh
Normal (2mm o 3mm)
Cuig widh
Normal for fabric
ifferenia feed
Above normal o easing, or nor mal
S ag .
B A SI C R O L L E D H E M
Lef needle
Omi
Righ needle
Garmen hread
Normal
ppe looper
ighwegh, suh as wo-py po y
Norma
ower looper
Wooly nylon
gh
Sih lengh
2mm o 2.5mm
Cuing widh
Wde
ifferena feed
Normal uness fabi pukers
Opional seings
Adjus serger or rol hemmn g
pa
ROLLED RECEIVING HEM
pa
e neede
Om
gh neede
Garmen hread
Noma
ppe looper
Wooy nylon
gh
ower looper
Wooly nylon
High
Sh lengh
To su fabri
Cuing widh
Wides (3mm
i fferenia feed
Normal unless abr pukers
seings
Adjus serger for rol hemmng
NL/ LOOR
ETUCE-EDGE HEM THRA
RGR TTING
See page 63
NL/ LOOR
M O N O F I AM N T H E M THRA
TNION
RGR TTING
See page 82
Pot Inde
10 1
BN HEM
NEEDLES/ LOOPERS Lef needle
Garment tread
Rit needle
Omit
e looer
Garment tead
SI itl y low
Lower looer
Garment tread
airy i
SERGER S ETTING S
See pae 3
1
oo ndex
Stic lent
Medium to lon
uttin widt
Nomal
Diffeential feed
Normal
airy
Utili d Decorative Stitches S I N G L E - L AY R O V E RC AST I N G
NEEDES/ OOPERS
TH READ
Let needle
Omt
Rght needle
Garment th read
Normal
Upper ooper
Garment thread
Nomal
Lower oope
Garment th read
Norma
TENSON
SERGER SEINGS Stitch length
2. mm to 3mm
Cutting width
Normal or abrc
Derenta eed
Normal
S pag 60.
MOCK HONG KONG FINISH
NEEDES/ LOOPERS
THREAD
et neede
Omt
Rght needle
Garment thread
Norma
ppe looper
Wooly nylon
Balanced
Lower ooper
Woolly nylon
Baanced
TENSION
SERGER S ETINGS Sttch length
1 mm to 2mm or coverage
Cuttng wdth
Ba lance to weght o abrc
Di ferenta l eed
Normal u nless abric puckers
S pag 77
Photo Index
13
BASC TUC KS
NEEDLES/ LOOPERS
THREAD
Let needle
Omit
Right needle
Gament t hread
Upper loope
Bypass
ower looper
Garment t head
TENSION
Normal
Normal
SERGER S ETTINGS
S pags 70-72
DECORAT VE UCKS
ttch length
3mm
Cuttng width
Bal ance to weight o abic
Diferential eed
7
Optiona settings
Use rol hem setting or ight kn its
NEEDES/ LOOPERS
THREAD
TENSION
Let needle
Garment thead
Normal
Right needle
Garment thread
Normal
Uppe looper
Decorate thread
H igh
Lower looper
Garment thread
ow
SERGER SETTNGS
S pas 70-72
titch length
Moderatell y dense (2m m
Cutti ng width
Balance to weight o abrc
Dierential eed
7
Optonal settings
Use rollhem setting or ery narrow tucks; use edge-sttch ng attachme nt to hel p control old line
DECORATVE FLATOCKING
EEDLES/ LOOPERS
THREAD
TESIO
Let needle
arment t hread
ary low
ht needle
Omt
Upper looper
ooly nylon
Slihty low
ower looper
Contrast
Fairly hh
SERGER SETG S Sttch enth
Medum (adust so nyon lus up
Cuttin wdth
Narrowest mm)
Dieret a eed
Normal
EEDLES/ LOOPERS
S pags 58 and 3.
DECORATV CHA I N I NG THREAD
TESIO
Let neede
armet or accent th read
ormal
ht needle
arment or accent t hread
Norma
Upper ooper
Decorative thread
ow
Lower looper
armet or accent thread
Hih
SERGER SETTIG S Stitch leth
ncrease so trim wil not bunch up on sttch iners
Cttn width
Baance to weiht o abric
Derential eed
S pag .
Phoo ndex
1
Speci Stitches Swing Elasi S pags 52-53
Gahring S pag 5
Plaks S pag 8
6
Phoo ndex
Decoate Edgg See page .
Metaic Thead-Taced Hem See pages 79-80
atheed Rue See page 83
Photo ndex
1
Complete oj ects Quik Sa See page 89
Quik Cwl Nek See page
Quik Eyeglass ase See page .
1
hoto ndex
Quick Hair Ornamen See page 8 .
Camisole and Tap Pans See pages 90-95
Elegan Silk Kni Top See pages 79
Photo Index
1
x A
F
Angling on and off, technique for, 42 Applqu, lace, 81
Fabric: decate, 88 guding, 39-4 hea v eight 26, 27 ghtweight, 26 27 medm-weght, 26, 27 See also Knts Feed dogs: described, 2 differentia feed for, 6- 7 as fabrc gide, 9 Fnshes: fancy, 78 mock Hong Kong 77 setting chart for 03 See also Hems; Thread tracing. Fnshing: of lace edges, 95 of ribbon edges, 95 Flatlocking, decorative 73-74 setting chart for 05 tps for 73 Frogs, of bas tubng, 87
B Bastng: ge as, 33 starch as 33 tape as 33 Bridalwear, serged accents for, 87 Button oops of bas tbing 86 See also Frogs. Bttons of bas tbing, 86-87
c Camsoe and tap pants, instructons for 9095 Chainng: decorative 74 setting chart for, 05 at start and end of seam 1 9 Corners: insde 47 mitered 84 otside, one-needle method for, 46-47 two-needle method for, 46 Cures nsde 46 outsde 46 Cuttng wdth: adjustng 2 1 changing, 40 dened, 2 40
E Edges nshed together technique for 59 Edgngs decorative, 63, 73 Eastic, serger appcation of, 52-53 Eyeglass case instructons for, 76
11
G Gatherng, technque for, 54 Gatherng ratos, testng 54 Gidng practice technqes for 39-41
H Har ornament, nstrctions for, 8 Hems: bnd 63 setting chart for 1 02 deep circular 6 eased overlock, settng chart for, 99 fancy 78 lettuce-edge, 63 settng chart for, 0 monoament 82 settng chart for 10 1 narrow, 6 narrow sheer 79
plan roled, 62 basc roed settng chart for 100 roled recevng 62 setting chart for 100 twostep turned, 61 See also Seams Holding grain, technque for, 49
Ironng-board cover, serged 35
K nit top nstructons for, 67-69 Knits described, 26 pes of 66 Knives: bypassing, by avoidng 43 by fodng on, 45 by making a ctot 45 described, repacng 22
L Lace: edge-nshing tip for, 95 stabizing, wth starch, 33 two-thread seam for, 98 See also Hems, roed receiving Lint removng 23 Loopers: descrbed, 2 13 tension adstments for, 20 and threadng options 5
M Machine easing, technqe for, 49 Monograms chaned 75
N
5
T
Ns: srib 2 3 a abri wig 3 r aura brs 3 rplaig 22 srig 56 r syi brs 3 si ausms r 20 a raig pis 5
Sar: wl-k isruis r 67 sik isruis r 8 Sams: basi urra 56 sig ar r 6 basi r-ra 56 sig ar r 7 bias airi 57 irular 2 iuus 2 ig 50 5 iss r 5-6 ak raiv 58 ur-ra r igwig kis sig ar r 7 r 58 sig ar r airi 5657 sarig 5 ra as r 70 rra r 57 wra r iig la sig ar r 8 -ra r 57 sig ar r 8 See als Hms. Srgrs vs via sg mais 8 Swig au iqu r Sabiizr: sar as 33 war-slub 35 Si grs: l g 3 srib 3 Si g ausig 22 Siig: isruis r rippig u 53 Sraps: bias ubig 85 ribb a a 5 Srig rmy r 7
Tap bias ri 3 Tsi ausig 20 Tra: agig 2 raiv 30 r ia abris 88 8 usibl 3 y am 28 pysr 28 subb isavis 30 uiiy vs raiv 28 wly y 28 Tra guis isuss Traig: a sis 5 is r 8 ips r 2 Tra raig: r bias abri 80 iuus 80 arrw 7 wi 80 Tra plas as srgr assis 7 Trimmig wi 0 Tubig bias r bu ps 86 r saps 85 iqu r 8-85 Tuks basi sig r 0 raiv sig ar r 0 vras 70-7
o Ovrasig: ramig wi 60 sig-layr 60 sig ar r 03 a sar a sam 5 See als Sams
p Pis paig 32 Paks: a-g 8 raiv vras 8 Pks psi 77 Prss : rgay as 35 papr w as 35 Prssr : as guiig ai 3 prssur ausm r 7 spiaiz 7 Pukrig rmy r 6
R Ribbs usm 7 gisig ip r 5 Rus gar 83
u Uammig iqu r 23
w Waisbas is r 77
ndex
111
Look or ths ad ohr Tre books at you oca booksto or swg rtar
American Country Needlepoint Beyond the Patte: Great Sewing Techniques for Clothing Couture Sewing Techniques Distinctive Details: Great Embellishment Techniques for Clothing Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets Easy Guide to Sewing Skirts
50 Heirloom Buttons to Make: A Gallery of Decorative Fabric, Needle Lace Crchet and Ribbon and Braid Closures You Can Create Fine Machine Sewing: Easy Ways to Get the Look of Hand Finishing nd Embellishing Fit and Fabric Fiting Solutions Patte-Altering Tips for Garments that Fit Fitting Your Figure Great Quilting Techniques Great Sewn Clothes Jackets Coats and Suits Knitted Sweater Style Inspirations in Color Knitting Tips & Trade Secrets Quilts and Quilting Sewing Tips & Trade Secrets Shirtmaking Techniques for Casual Clothes
Fo a cataog o th comp of Treads oos ad dos wrt to h Tato rss, PO. Box 5506 Nwtow CT 064705506
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