Seam & Stitch

Stitch: Kind of the stitch Classification of stitch as BSI: Class Class100

Name of Stitch Chain stitch

Available subclass 7 and each class is subdivided 13 Number of subdivided classes is 88. 27 in total.

Class200

Hand stitch

Class 300

Lockstitch

Class 400

Multi needle chain stitch 17 in total.

Class 500

Over-edge chain stitch

15 in total.

Class 600

Covering chain

9 in total.

Created Machine SNCS, Blind Stitch Machine.

SNLS, 2NLS, Bar tuck machine. Kansai Machine, 2NCS 3T, 4T, 5T over lock machine. Flat lock machine.

Class 100 Stitches Class 100 stitches are single thread chain stitches using one needle thread and one blind looper. Ñ Feature A piece of thread is interlaced like a chain under the cloth and the stitches are formed as knitted. The constructive feature is that the stitches are untied one after another when the interlacement at the end of sewing comes off. Ñ Application Basting (ML-111), button sewing (AMB-189N), (MB-377), chain stitch buttonholing (MBH-180S), blind stitch, And closing of bag opening. Ñ D ample of Stitch formation

Class 101 ... Chain stitch

Class 103 ... Blind stitch

Ñ Stitch formation:

A: Needle thread slacks at the position where needle slightly goes up from its lowest position, and looper catches the needle thread which has become like a loop. Also, the needle enters the circle of needle thread which is widened by the looper.

 



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One Thread Basting, or light construction

Class 103

One Thread

Blind stitch for Hemming

Class 104

One Thread

Blind stitch for Hemming

Class 200 Stitches

Single thread hand sewed stitches using one needle thread. Ñ Feature Same stitch as that of hand stitch is formed by a piece of thread. Thread is drawn in every stitch or every other stitch and the length of stitching is limited. Since friction is given at the same position of the sewing thread many times, the thread is untwined during sewing resulting in hread t breakage unless the thread is a high-durable one. Dven when the sewing is made, the stitch looks broken. Therefore, the thread that can be used is limited. Ñ Application ecorative stitch of suits or like, kimono (Japanese national dress), Button sewing of coats, suits, etc. Ñ D ample of stitch formation

Class 200 Hand Stitch Ñ Stitch Formation:

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A: Needle is fi ed to upper needle bar, and left-hand and right-hand loopers draw and retain the thread. Cloth is fed and the needle comes down.

B: Needle penetrates the cloth and is delivered to the lower needle bar. The righthand looper returns to its home place.

C: Lower looper catches the thread loop at the position where the lower needle bar slightly goes up from its lowest position.



: Lower looper draws out thread which enters under the cloth one stitch before from the above left-hand looper. Simultaneously the cloth is fed.

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D: Needle goes up and penetrates the cloth. Lower looper further pulls in the thread downward.

 F: Needle penetrates the cloth, and is delivered to the upper needle bar and goes up. Thread is wiped out by the lower looper. Ne t, the above left-hand and right-hand loopers catch the thread to continue to A.



Ñ Sub Classes of Class 200 Stitch are given below:

iagram

Stitch Class No. of Thread

Typical Uses

Class 202

One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs

Class 205

One Thread

Pick Stitch - Topstitching

Class 300 Stitches Two or more thread lock stitches using needle thread(s) and one bobbinhook thread. Ñ Feature

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Two threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (bobbin thread) are used. Dvery stitch upper thread and lower thread interlaces each other and the stitches on right and wrong sides are the same. This stitch is widely used since it is not easily frayed and securely joins plural pieces of cloth. It is necessary to replace the bobbin thread since stitch formation is obtained by rotation of the needle thread around the bobbin case. Ñ Application General sewing (!!L-5550N, !!L-5700-7, !LU-5490N-7, !LN-5410N-7), Shirring (!LU-5494N-7), 2-needle lockstitch (LH-3128-7), Zigzag stitch (LZ-2288N-7), Plain stitch, !ecorative stitch, Bartacking (LK-1900), Lockstitch buttonholing (LBH-790RS-1), Button sewing (LK-1903/BR25), Pockect sewing (AP "-196) and Pattern sewing (AMS-210!) Ñ D ample of stitch formation JIS mark 301 ... 1-needle lockstitch JIS mark 304 ... 1-needle lockstitch zigzag stitch

Y needle lockstitch

1-needle lockstitch zigzag

A: Upper thread slacks at the position where the needle slightly goes up from its lowest position, and blade point of outer hook catches the loop-shaped upper thread and pulls in the upper thread.

B: Upper thread which is pulled in by the blade point of outer hook is separated at the inner hook thread separating portion so that the upper thread on the needle side is separated to the rear side of inner hook and the upper thread on cloth side is separated to the right side of inner hook.

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C: Outer hook rotates, while pulling in upper thread, around the periphery of bobbin case containing lower thread set in inner hook. Thread take-up lever supplies upper thread which is necessary to rotate around inner hook. (Suppose that inner hook is a human being, and it looks like doing ropeskipping.)

#: Immediately after upper thread has rotated around inner hook, thread take-up lever lifts upper thread and the upper thread is interlaced with the lower

D: Stitch is formed when the upper thread lifts the lower thread and cloth is fed at the end. Ne t, needle comes down and penetrates cloth to continue to A: .

2 Semi-rotary hook

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A: Blade point of semi-rotary hook catches loop-shaped upper thread.

$: Upper thread rotates around the periphery of bobbin case by rotation of the hook.

C: After 1/2 rotation of the hook, upper thread is lifted by thread take-up lever and is interlaced with lower thread.

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M: Stitch is formed when the upper thread lifts the lower thread and cloth is fed at the end. To be continued to a : .

Ñ Sub Classes of Class 300 Stitch are given below:

Miagram

Stitch Class

No. of Thread

Typical Uses

Class 301

Two Threads

Seaming Multiple Plies

Class 304

Two Thread

Zigzag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch

Class 306

Two Thread

Blind Stitch

Class 315

Two Threads

"Three Step Zigzag; a stretch lockstitch with more stretch

Class 400 Stitches Multi-thread/needle chain stitches using one or more needle threads and one or more ooper threads.

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Ñ Feature Upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (looper thread) are interlaced with each other like a chain under cloth, and the stitches look like knitted. The stitches look the same as those of lockstitch when observing from the surface of cloth. Sewing can be performed continuously or f a long time since lower thread as well as upper thread can be supplied continuously. Stitches are full of elasticity, and widely used for the elastic cloth and places to which shock is applied. Mefect, when compared with the lockstitch, is that the stitch is easily frayed. Ñ Application General sewing (MH-481-5) Rubber tape attaching, Lace attaching to underwear, swim-suit, etc. Dyelet buttonholing (MDB-2688), Side seam (MS-1190), Belt loop making (MFB-2600) Ñ D ample of stitch formation JIS mark 401 ... 1-needle double chain stich JIS mark 406 ... 2-needle double chain stitch

Ñ Stitch formation A: Needle thread comes off looper and is tightened. Then, looper scoops needle thread at the position where needle slightly goes up from its lowest position.

B: Needle continues to go up and looper thread comes off needle. Looper advances in the state that it has scooped needle thread.

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C: Cloth is fed when needle is in the highest dead point and looper is in the most advanced state, and the final tightening of needle thread is performed.

M: Needle comes down and the needle tip scoops looper thread. Looper performs elliptic motion. Then, stitch formation is continued to

Ñ Sub Classes of Class 400 Stitch are given below:

Miagram

Stitch Class

No. of Thread

Typical Uses

Class 401

Two Threads

Seaming Multiple Plies with moderate stretch

Class 406

Three Threads

"Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater) stretch chain stitch

Class 500 Stitches

Multi-thread over Ddge chain stitches using needle threads and looper threads. Ñ Feature In many cases, three threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower threads (upper looper thread and lower looper thread) are interlaced with one another so as to hem material end, and the stitches look like knitted. This stitch belongs to the classification of chain stitch. The stitch itself can e pand following the e pansion of cloth. Accordingly, this stitch is mostly used for the cloth which is largely e panded (knit or the like). Ñ Application

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Cloth which is largely e panded, blind over-edging, prevention of fray at material end (ASN397/serging machine) Over lock sewing machine (MO-3904), 2-needle over lock machine (MO3914), Cylinder-bed over lock sewing machine (MOC-3914) Ñ D tra: Compound stitching Ñ Feature This stitch is favorable to the productivity since double chain stitching and over-edge chain stitching are simultaneously performed (safety stitch). The machine is called "Interlock machine". (MO-3916) Ñ Application General run stitching, side joining of shirts, slacks, etc. Ñ D ample of stitch formation JIS mark 504 ... 1-needle over lock JIS mark 506 ... 2-needle over lock

Ñ Stitch formation

A: Lower looper scoops needle thread loop.

B: Upper looper thread comes off needle and upper looper scoops lower looper thread.

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C: Cloth is fed.

M: Needle tip scoops upper looper thread.

D: Lower looper thread which is caught on upper looper comes off. Then, needle thread which is caught on lower looper comes off.

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F: Needle thread which is before one stitch is tightened at the lower dead point of needle. Stitch formation is continued to A.

Ñ Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:

Miagram

Stitch Class

No. of Thread

Typical Uses

Class 502

Two Thread

One Needle Over edge stitch for Serging

Class 503

Two Thread

Over edge stitch for Serging with Class-1 over on Ddge of Fabric

Class 504

Three Thread

Over edge stitch for Serging and Light Seaming

Class 512

Four Thread

Make Safety Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

Class 514

Four Thread

Over edge Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

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Class 515

Four Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for %oven and Knits

Class 516

Five Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for %oven and Knits

G00Class Stitches Multi-Thread Covering stitches. Ñ Feature There are two or more needle threads and decorative threads on both the right and wrongsides of cloth (generally, upper decorative thread is attached to 2-needle or 3-needle double chain stitch). The stitch is full of elasticity and looks nice. Ñ Application Hemming (MFC-7605/AH-1) Mecorative stitch for lace attaching to underwear, swim-suits, etc. Ñ D ample of stitch formation JIS mark 605 ... 3-needle covering chainstitch JIS mark 602 ... 2-needle covering chain stitch

Ñ Stitch formation A: Lower looper scoops needle thread loop, and simultaneously upper decorative looper scoops upper decorative thread.

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B: Cloth is fed and only right-hand needle is positioned in the outside of decorative thread. Two left-hand needles come down and scoop upper decorative thread.

C: Needles further come down and scoop lower looper thread. And, two right-hand needles enter in between the respective needle threads as shown in the illustration.

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M: Needle thread comes off lower looper and needle comes down in its lowest position. Lower looper and upper decorative looper are in the most retracted positions. Stitch formation is continued to A .

Ñ Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:

Miagram

Stitch Class No. of Thread

Typical Uses

Class 602

Four Thread

Covering Stitch or Seaming Knits

Class 605

Five Thread

Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams

Class 607

Si Thread

&ide Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams

SDAM: Seam: Seam is a group of stitch.

Superimposed Seams Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are superimposed on Dach Other.

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CLASS-3 q

3

Binding over the edge of two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 r

3

Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

BClass-1

2

Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Flat Seams Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Sewn Together at the Ddges

c
ë

 

      Cssc'  D   D m

 m Css

   C 

cs s c s

C$-4 

4

C  sc m  s s  606Css607Css

C$-4


2

C  sc m  s s  602Css603Css

C$-4 c

2

C  sc m  s s  602Css603Css

C$-4 

4

 m  s s 602 Css603Css  Css300Css400 

   









p

c
 ë^ o


CLASS-4 e

2

Covering stitch Seaming two plies using 602Class, or 603Class with ribbon or tape

CLASS-4 f

2

Covering stitch Seaming two plies using 602Class, or 603Class

Ornamental/Mecorative Seam Ornamental Stitching is Stitches Sewn on One Ply of Fabric

Seam Miagram

Seam Class

Needle Count

Typical Uses and Stitch Types

c
 
 

C$-5 

12

D c c  s Css100 Css300Css400600Css

C$-5


12

D c c  s c  m m sc # - c#C  s 304CssCss400sc

C$-5 c

12

D c c sm m sc #  c# s 304CssCss400sc

C$-5 

2

C$-5 

1







 csc C  6c   s  101 Css301Css401Css sc



  cc  s 101Css 301Css401Csssc



r

c
 Y q


C$-5 

1

#c-C s #sc  s 301Css sc-Css-2c # - c# m
   

C$-5



3

 - m s Css100Css 300Css400sc

C$-5 

1

 m s  Css100Css300 Css400sc







     /  F s m F
c  s s c      mD m

 m Css

   C 

cs s c s

C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400



t

c
 x s


C$-6


12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400

C$-6 c

1

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400

C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css500 #   #

C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css500 #   #( 

C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400600Css

C$-6



2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400













v

c
 ¦ u


C$-6 

2

C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400

C$-6 

2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400

C$-6 

2

F s   s  Css400

C$-6 m

1

F s   s 103 Css 306Css 6 scH m

C$-6



2

F s  s s  Css100Css 300Css400 xm ;6 M 

F s   s  Css400













x

c
 ë w


C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400 xm ;6 M 

C$-6 

2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400   c H m!    

C$-6 

2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400   c H m!    

C$-6 s

2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400 xm ;6 M 

C$-6 

2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400

C$-6 

2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400 # #













c


z y


C$-6 

2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400     

C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400

C$-6 x

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400

C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400

C$-6 "

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400

C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400













|

c
 G {


C$-6 


2

F s   s 602 Css

2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400      M 6 

C$-6 

2

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400      M 6 

C$-6  

1

F s   s  Css500

C$-6 

3

F s   s  Css500  602Css



C$-6 c









~

c
 3 }


C$-6  

3

F s   s  Css500  602Css

C$-6 

12

F s   s  Css100Css 300Css400







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c