Roka - Amber by Lyra Lune (Lyra Lune Designs) Angol38

 

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 Amber

 

 

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Table of contents  . ……………………………………… …………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………… .………..3 ……… Materials .. ………

General Advice ... ……..………………………………………………………… …..…………………………………………………………………………………….… ………………………….… Pattern   Head ….…………… ………… … …..……………………… ..………… ……………………… …………………… ……………………… ………………………… ………………………… ……………   Legs and body … . ………………………… ………………………………………………… …………………………………………… …………………… .. ……………………… ……………………………. ……. 7   Muzzle …..… …..…………………………… ………………………………………… ……………… ….……………………………………………………… .9   Ears ….. …..…………………………… ………………………………………………… …………………………… ….……………………………………………… ……… 10   Arms ……………………………………………………………… ….……………………………………………… .….11   Eye Eyess .. ………… …………………… …………………… …………………… …………………… ………………… ….…………………………………………… ……… .………12    Tail ………………………… ……………………………………………… ………………………………………… ……………… …………………………………… ………… . …..13   Coat ………………………………………………………………………………………………………   Lantern …………………………………………………………………………… ……………………… .…………….16   Hair and fur ……………………………………… …………………………………………………………………………………… ……………………………………………………… .……………17 ………… …………………………………… ..……….1 9  Assembly …..…………………………………………………………………… ………………………………………………… ……………………… ….…………………………………… 25 Basic crochet techniques .. …………………………

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Terms of use  1. This This pat patte tern rn is is for for your your pe pers rson onal al use use on only ly.. You You may may not not mod modif ify, y, sha share re it it or or dist distri ribu bute te it it in an anyy way. way. 2. You can sell finished products made from this pattern on a small scale, provided that you made them yourself. Crediting Credi ting us on the physic physical al item (such as on a tag or a card card)) would would be appre appreciate ciated d but is not requ required. ired. 3. When you share finished pictures of your work online, please credit us for the pattern and link to our shop or our social soc ial med media. ia.

 

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 Before you begin 1. Abbreviations

 

Ch = chain stitch (Tutorial Page 25) 

MR = magic ring (Tutorial Page 32) 

Sc = single crochet (Tutorial Page 28) 

Rnd Rn d = ro roun und d

Inc = increase (Tutorial Page 35) 

St = st stit itch ch

Dec = invisible decrease (Tutorial Page 35)

SL. ST. = slip stitch

3 sc tog = cro crochet chet a decre decrease ase with with three stitc stitches hes

Hdc = half double crochet (Tutorial Page 30) 

(Tutorial Page 36) 

BLO = back loops only

(Tutorial Page 27) 

Dc = double crochet (Tutorial Page 31) 

FLO = front loops only

(Tutorial Page 27) 

F.O. F. O. = fas faste ten n off off

(….) x … = repeat instructions in brackets

[..] [. .] = to tota tall numb number er of of stit stitch ches es in in the the row row

 2. Materials Yarn   DK we weig ight ht (No (No.. 3) – Sc Sche heep epje jess So Soft ftfu fun n

Tools   2.25 mm mm Hoo Hookk





Yarn n need needle le   Yar Stit itch ch mar marke kerr   St



Pins ns (to fa faci cili lita tate te ass assem embl bly) y)   Pi



  Sc Scis isso sors rs



  An Anyy wh whit ite e acr acryl ylic ic ya yarn rn fo forr the the fu furr

  St Stuffi uffing ng



You can use whatever yarn size, color and type you want. Keep in mind that the size of the finished change depending on what yarn and hook combination you use. Using the indic indicated ated tools tools,, Ambe Amberr will be ~18cm ~18cm tall.

toy will

 

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 3. General Advice and Tips   Make sure your tension is tight. tight. This will ensure that the stitches will come out neat and



no stuffing will show through at the end.

  If you want to make the toy smaller or larger, larger, you can either change up the yarn size,



the hook size, or a combination of both. If you want a larger toy, work with thicker yarn or a  bigger hook or both, and and vice versa for a smaller toy.

   When working working in the round, round, start with a magic circle or foundation chain, then crochet



continuously without without joining with a slip stitch at the end of the round. This will ensure you do not end up with an inaesthetic seam. Use a stitch marker at marker at the beginning or end of each round to keep track of your position.

  I recommend using the Yarn Under/Yarn Over method when method when crocheting “single



crochet” stitches in amigurumi, as this will produce the more aesthetically pleasing X stitches.

  Turn your project right side out. out. The side that should be on the outside is the one that



has the neat X stitches (if using the yarn under method) or the V stitches (if using the yarn over method). Another way in which you can tell the right side, is to go by the yarn tail from the magic ring – this should be on the inside of the work. And yet another way to figure this out is by the direction in which you work. If the project is right side out, you will be working clockwise.. If it’s wrong side out, then you’re working counterclockwise. clockwise counterclockwise.

 



 T ake

your time with stuffing. stuffing. More stuffing than you think is necessary for a firm shape.

Stuff as much as you can, without getting to the point where you’re stretching the stitches too much.

 

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 4. Let’s make a fox!  Head   Begin with CLAY yarn. Make a foundation chain and work around it in a continuous spiral.  spiral. 

1

Round

Instructions

Total

1

Chain 15

[15]

2

1 sc in second chain from hook, 12 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, continue crocheting on the underside of the chain: 12 sc, 1 increase, 1 SL. ST. into the 1st stitch. Place stitch marker in the SL. ST. loop (Pic. 1)

[30]

3

(12 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 1 sc, 3 sc in next stitch) x 2

[38]

2

3

4

(13 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 3 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 1 sc) x 2

[46]

5

(14 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 5 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 2 sc) x 2

[54]

6

(15 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 7 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 3 sc) x 2

[62]

7

(16 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 9 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 4 sc) x 2

[70]

8

(17 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 11 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 5 sc) x 2

[78]

9

(18 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 13 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 6 sc) x 2

[86] 

 At the end of round 9, do not place the the stitch marker, marker, instead continue continue to crochet 6 more sc, then place stitch marker (we are changing changing the round start/end point to be in the middle). (Pic. 4)  4)  10-19   10-19

86 sc (10 rounds) (Pic. 5)

[86]

 With the next next round, start alternating WHITE WHITE and CLAY. Remember the color change always begins a stitch earlier.  You can find find more information information on how to do color color changes at the end of this document, under the techniques chapter (Page 36). 

4

5

  

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6

 After you finish finish working working with one one color, cut the the yarn and knot it. I don't recommend carrying it across without cutting it, as the color changes happen on opposite sides of the work, and it would create a crisscross which would impede the stuffing process.  process.  20-27

26 sc, WHITE 35 sc, CLAY 25 sc (8 rounds) - (Pic. 7)

[86]

28

26 sc, WHITE 35 sc, CLAY 21 sc place the marker here before finishing the round (Pic. 8)

[82] 

7

In order to create a slight delimitating edge to the head, crochet the next row in the back loops only - except for the corner decreases which will be done in the usual invisible decrease way, in the front loops only. BLO 18 sc, 3 sc tog, 9 sc, s c,  WHITE 4 sc, 3 sc tog, 24 sc, 3 sc tog, 1 sc, CLAY 12 sc, 3 sc tog, 6 sc (Pic. 8)

[78]

30

17 sc, 3 sc together, 8 sc,  WHITE 3 sc, 3 sc tog, 22 sc, 3 sc tog, CLAY 11 sc, 3 sc tog, 5 sc

[70]

31

16 sc, 3 sc tog, 7 sc,  WHITE 2 sc, 3 sc tog, 20 sc, 3 sc tog, CLAY 9 sc, 3 sc tog, 4 sc

[62]

32

15 sc, 3 sc tog, 6 sc,  WHITE 1 sc, 3 sc tog, 18 sc, 3 sc tog, CLAY 7 sc, 3 sc tog, 3 sc

[54]

33

14 sc, 3 sc tog, 5 sc,  WHITE 3 sc tog, 16 sc, 3 sc tog, CLAY 5 sc, 3 sc tog, 2 sc

[46]

34

13 sc, 3 sc tog, 3 sc, 3 sc tog,  WHITE 14 sc, 3 sc tog, CLAY 3 sc, 3 sc tog, 1 sc

[38]

12 sc, 3 sc tog, 1 sc, 3 sc tog,  WHITE 12 sc, sc, 3 sc tog, CLAY 1 sc, 3 sc tog

[30]

29

35

8

9

10

Start stuffing (firmly)  (firmly)  36   36

10 sc, 3 sc tog, 3 sc tog, 10 sc, dec, dec

Do 1 SL. ST., F.O. and leave a long thread.  With a yarn needle, needle, sew the head closed. (Pic. 10)  10) 

[24]   [24] 11

 

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 Legs and Body  Make 2 x Legs

1

Begin with BLACK yarn and work in a continuous spiral  spiral   Round

Instructions

Total

1

6 sc in a magic ring

[6]

2

(inc, sc) x 3

[9]

3

(inc, 2 sc) x 3

[12]

4

inc, 11 sc

[13]

2

Change to CLAY 5

inc, 12 sc

[14]

6

inc, 13 sc

[15]

7

inc, 14 sc

[16]

8

inc, 15 sc

[17] 

9

17 sc

[17] 3

F.O. the first leg and crochet the second leg the same way.  After crocheting crocheting the second second leg, don't don't cut the yarn, yarn, instead:  instead:  *  1

Chain 4 and join with the first leg with a sc (Pic. 2-3) Continue crocheting the next rows around both legs including in the chain loops. 17 sc around the first leg, 4 sc on the chain, 17 sc around the second leg, 4 sc on the other side of the chain (Pic. 4)

[42]

2

(6 sc, inc) x 6

[48] 

3

(7 sc, inc) x 6

[54]

4

(8 sc, inc) x 6

[60]

4

  

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5

Stuff the legs firmly. (Pic. 5)  5) 

5-10

60 sc (6 rounds)

[60]

11

(8 sc, dec) x 6

[54]

12

54 sc

[54]

13

(7 sc, dec) x 6

[48]

14

48 sc

[48]

15

(6 sc, dec) x 6

[42]

16

42 sc

[42]

17

(5 sc, dec) x 6

[36]

18

36 sc

[36]

19

(10 sc, dec) x 3

[33]

20

33 sc

[33]

21

(9 sc, dec) x 3

[30]

22

30 sc

[30]

23

(8 sc, dec) x 3

[27]

24

27 sc

[27]

Stuff firmly, F.O. and leave long thread for sewing.  sewing. 

6

7

 

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 Muzzle  Start wit Start with h  WHITE yar  yarn n an and d wor workk in a con conti tinu nuou ouss spir spiral al.. On each row, alternate between WHITE and CLAY yarn   Round  

Instruc Inst ructio tions ns

Total Tot al

1

WHIT WH ITE E

6 sc in a ma magi gicc ri ring ng

[6 ]

2

WHITE WHIT E

Inc x 4, CLA CLAY Y inc x 2

[ 12 12]]

3

WHIT WH ITE E ( sc, in inc) c) x 4, CLA LAY Y (sc, in inc) c) x 2

[18]] [18

4

WHIT WH ITE E

(2 sc sc,, in incc ) x 4, CLA LAY Y (2 sc, in inc) c) x 2

[24]

5

WHIT WH ITE E

(7 sc, in inc) c) x 2, CL CLA AY 7 sc sc,, in incc

[27]

6-8

WHIT WH ITE E

18 sc sc,, CL CLAY AY 9 sc (3 ro roun unds ds))

[27]

F.O and lea leave ve a lon long g tail tail of eac each h color color for sew sewing ing.. Attach black yarn and embroider the nose. Start above the 3 rd  row, right on the edge between orange and white. Insert the needle from behind, and go back through right above the magic ring, as shown in the picture. Continue in this manner for the entire width of the orange part. Make Make two bla ck lines in each stitch stitch to ensure ensure adequate adequate coverage. coverage.

 

 

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 Ears  Make 2 x Ears Start with BLACK   yarn and work in a continuous spiral.  spiral.  Round   Round Instructions Total 1

6 sc in a magic ring

[6]

2

(Sc, inc) x 3

[9]

3

(2 sc, inc) x 3

[12]

4

(3 sc, inc) x 3

[15]

Change to CLAY 5

(4 sc, inc) x 3

[18]

6

(5 sc, inc) x 3

[21]

7

(6 sc, inc) x 3

[24]

8

24 sc

[24]

9

(3 sc, inc) x 6

[30]

10

30 sc

[30]

11

(4 sc, inc) x 6

[36]

12-14

36 sc (3 rounds)

[36]

15

(4 sc, dec) x 6

[30]

16

30 sc

[30]

SL. ST. and F.O., leave a long thread for sewing Make 2 x white details Use WHITE  yarn and work work in a continuous continuous spiral. spiral.  Round   Round Instructions Total 1

6 sc in a magic ring

[6]

2

inc x 6

[12]

3

(3 sc, 3 sc in 1 st) x 3

[18]

4 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, (5 sc, 3 sc in 1 st) x 2, sc SL. ST., F.O., leave a long tail for sewing 4

[24]

Place the white part over the CLAY part like shown and sew it on with white yarn.  yarn. 

 

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 Arms  Make 2 x arms

Start with BLACK  yarn  yarn and work in a continuous spiral  Round   Round

Instructions

Total

1

6 sc in a magic ring

[6]

2

Inc x 6

[12]

3-4

12 sc (2 rounds)

[12]

5

(2 sc, dec) x 3

[9]

6

9 sc

[9]

9 sc

[9]

Stuff firmly 7

Change to CLAY   8-19

9 sc (12 rounds)

[9]

Do not stuff. Flatten hands and crochet across the top through both sides to close it.

1

 

 

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 Eyes  Make 2 x Eyes Start with BLACK  yarn  yarn and work in a continuous spiral Round   Round

Instructions

Total

1

5 sc in a magic ring

[5]

2

Inc x 2, 3 sc in 1 st, inc x 2

[11]

Change color to MOSS MOSS and  and crochet in BLO  BLO  3

(sc, inc) x 2, hdc, 3 hdc in 1 st, hdc, (inc, sc) x 2

[17]

Pick up BLACK  again;  again; cut green and leave a tail for sewing 4

SL. ST. in the back loops around

[18]

and back into the first black st. F.O., leave a tail for sewing Embroider reflections with WHITE with WHITE yarn  yarn (see Pic. right):   Make the inner pupil reflections larger and the outer ones smaller and try to make both eyes symmetrical.   Make two white contour lines on the outer edge of the eyes.   Place the reflections around or below the middle line of the eyes, so that they won’t won’t be hidden by the eyelids. Make 2 x Eyelids Start with BLACK  yarn   yarn  Row  

Instructions

Total

1

Chain 11

[11]

Change to CLAY   2

In second chain from hook, 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, ch 1 to turn

[10]

3

2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc

[10]

SL. ST., F.O., leave a tail for sewing

 

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Tail    Start with BLACK  yarn  yarn and work in a continuous spiral.  spiral.  Round   Round

Instructions

Total

1

6 sc in a magic ring

[6]

2 3

6 sc Inc x 6

[6] [12]

Change to WHITE 4

(3 sc, inc) x 3

[15]

5

(4 sc, inc) x 3

[18]

6

18 sc

[18]

7

(5 sc, inc) x 3

[21]

8

21 sc

[21]

Change to BLACK 9 21 SL. ST.

[21]

 At the end of the round round SL. ST. into into the first first black st to finish the round neatly. Change to CLAY 10

(6 sc, inc) x 3

[24]

11

24 sc

[24]

12

(3 sc, inc) x 6

[30]

13-14

30 sc (2 rounds)

[30]

15

(3 sc, dec) x 6

[24]

16

24 sc

[24]

17

(2 sc, dec) x 6

[18]

18-19

18 sc (2 rounds)

[18]

20

(sc, dec) x 6

[12]

21

12 sc

[12]

22

dec x 6

[6]

Stuff softly

Flatten the tail and crochet across the top to close it.

 

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 Cape  Hood

 Work with DENIM

 yarn in turning rows  rows 

Row   1

Instructions Chain 91

Total [91]

2

From second chain from hook: hook: 90 sc, ch 1 to turn

[90]

3-15

90 dc, ch 1 to turn (13 rows)

[90]

In the next row, we will be creating the holes for ears by crocheting chains to skip some stitches

16

20 dc, ch 18 and skip 18 stitches, rejoining the chain in the stitch after the 18 skipped ones, 14 dc,

[90]

ch 18 and skip 18 stitches, rejoining the chain in the stitch after the 18 skipped ones, 20 dc 17-20

90 dc (when you reach the chains on row 16, crochet the dc into them)

[90]

F.O. and weave in the ends  ends  Vest

 Work with DENIM  yarn in turning rows  rows  Row  

Instructions

Total

1

Chain 71

[71]

2

From second chain from hook: hook: 70 sc, ch 1 to turn

[70]

3-8

70 dc, ch 1 to turn (6 rows)

[70]

In the next row, we will be creating a hole for the tail by crocheting a chain to skip some stitches

9

31 dc, ch 8 and skip 8 stitches, rejoining the chain in the stitch after the 8 skipped ones, 31 dc

[70]

10-12

70 dc (when you reach the chains, crochet the dc into them) (3 rows)

[70]

F.O. and weave in the ends

 

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 Assembling the cloak 1.  Take the hood and fold one side over the other, like

a book, making sure su re the ear holes align on top of each other. (Pic. 2)

1

  On the far side parallel to the ear holes, sew the two parts together to form the hood – see pictures 2.

2-3 (the seam is on the back of the head – Pic. 4).4). 4).4).   3

2

4

 Align the cloak and the vest as shown in Pic. 5. Start sewing them together, leaving two holes for the arms in the seam. I used stitch markers to mark the positions of the arm holes and created the holes by simply skipping over those parts when sewing.(Pic. sewing.(Pic. 6). 3.

5

6

1st armhole

7

8

2nd armhole

 

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 Lantern 

Start with GRAPHITE yarn and work in a continuous spiral. Round   1

Instruc Instr ucti tion onss 4 sc in a ma magi gicc ri ring ng

Total Total [4 ]

2

3 sc in eac each h of th the e 4 sti stitch tches es

[12]] [12

3

1 sc, (3 sc in 1 st, 2 sc) x 3, 3 sc in 1 st, 1 sc

[20]

4

BLO 20 sc

[20]

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

 

Change to BUMBLEBEE  5

BLO 20 sc

[20]

6-9

20 sc (4 roun und ds)

[20]

Change to GRAPHITE  10

FLO FL O 20 sc

[21 [2 1]

11

2 sc, (3 sc in 1 st, 4 sc) sc) x 3, 3 sc in 1 st, 2 sc

[28]

12

BLO 28 sc

[28]

13

2 sc sc,, (3 (3 sc to tog, g, 4 sc sc)) x 3, 3 sc to tog, g, 2 sc

[20 ]

11

sc, (3 sc sc tog tog,, 2 sc) x 3, 3 sc tog tog,, 1 sc

[ 12 12]]

12

3 sc tog x 4

[ 4]

Chain 11 and attach the end of the chain back to the

lantern,

to crea create te the the ring ring hand handle. le. For the l anter antern n corn corners ers – make 4 chain chainss of 7 stitc stitches hes each with wit h GRA GRAPHI PHITE TE yar yarn n , whi which ch you wil willl the then n att attach ach to the vertical vertic al edges of the lanter lantern n , using using the tail ends to sew them in place. Insert the tail ends of the chains in the upper and lower corne cornerr s, then bring both both tail ends ends out through through the same same stitch, knot them together, then push the knot back inside to hide hi de it. it. Cut a long grey yarn thread and sew Xs on the four facets on the lantern lantern.. Pull the ends ends out out throug throug h the same stitc stitch h hole, hole, knot them, them, and push push th e knot back back inside inside to hide it. it.  

 

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 Hair & Fur  Hair

 Work with WHITE

 acrylic yarn in turning rows.

 You can find find a basic guide on loop stitches stitches in the Technique Techniquess chapter at the end of the document. document.   Row   Instructions Total 1

Chain 9

[9]

2

From second chain from hook: hook: 8 sc, ch 1 to turn

[8]

3

8 loop st, ch 1 to turn

[8]

4

8 sc, ch 1 to turn

[8]

5

8 loop st, ch 1 to turn

[8]

6 7

Dec, 4 sc, dec, ch 1 to turn 6 loop st, ch 1 to turn

[6] [6]

8

Sc, dec, sc, dec, ch 1, turn

[4]

9

4 loop st

[4]

F.O. and leave a long tail for sewing Cut the loops and brush them with a coarse brush (can be a wire, pet or carpet brush) using quick motions until they resemble fur.  fur. 

 

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Neck

Fur Fu

 Work with WHITE

 acrylic yarn in turning rows.

 You can find find a basic guide on loop stitches stitches in the Technique Techniquess chapter at the end of the document. document.   Row  

Instructions

Total

1

Chain 10

[10]

2

From second chain from hook: 9 sc, ch 1 to turn

[9]

3

9 loop st

[9]

F.O. and leave a long tail for sewing Cut the loops and brush them with a coarse brush (can be a wire, pet or carpet brush) using quick motions until they resemble fur.  fur. 

 

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 Assembly  1. He Head and Body

Pin the body to the underside of the head in the middle of the seam where you sew the head shut then sew it on with clay yarn using a yarn needle. 

2. Ears

Place the ears on side of the head like in the below pictures, using pins to secure them in place, and make sure they are approximately symmetrical, then sew them on with clay yarn using a yarn needle.

 

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3. Arms

Pin the arms on either side of the body, approximately in the same position right under the head, as shown below, and sew them on. o n. 

4. Nose

Place the nose in the middle of the head, lining up the colors neatly and pin it in place in at least two spots so that it doesn't move. Sew the orange part with orange yarn and the white part with white  yarn. Stuff the nose firmly firmly before closing it up. up.

 

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5. Eyes and lids Pin the eyes in place, about 2 stitches away from the nose, and vertically as shown below. Sew them on with moss yarn by inserting the needle through the moss stitches. Place the lids over the eyes and try to not obstruct the reflection reflections. s. Sew them on with clay yarn along the upper edge.

6. Tail Place the tail about 9 rows above the legs, centered horizontally horizontally and sew it on with clay yarn.

 

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7. Hair

Place the hair on top of the head, roughly in the middle, with the longest row towards the back of the head. Sew it on with the white acrylic yarn tail using a yarn needle.

8. Neck fur

Sew the neck piece just under the head (Pic. 1). Count about 9 rows from the neck towards the  belly and tie the fur with white acrylic yarn at about that point (Pic. 2). Tuck the ends of the fur under the upper part (Pic. 3 - you can also shorten it a bit with scissors if it doesn’t fit neatly). Insert one end of the yarn you knotted through a stitch (Pic. 4) and knot it with the other end of  yarn to secure secure it in place. Insert both yarn yarn ends inside inside the body body of the fox to hide them.

1 4

2 5

3

 

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9. Embroider Eyebrows Use black yarn or floss to embroider eyebrows diagonally above the eyes. You can play with the positioning to change her expression.

10. Cloak Put the cloak on the fox. Fold the edges of the cloak outward (Pic. 1). Use a strand of denim yarn to stitch both sides in place around the position of the pin in Pic. 2.  Attach two pieces of white yarn on the neckline of either side of the cloak and tie them in a bow to keep the cloak closed in place (Pic. 5). 1

2

4

3

5

 

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 All done!  I’dd lolove  I’ ve to se seee it

@LyraLuneDesigns #lyralunedesigns

Thank you for making Amber

 

P a g e | 25

 5. Basic crochet techniques 1. Slipknot, Chain Stitch and Foundation Chain   

Place the tail end of the yarn over the rest of the thread to form a loop shape (Pic. 1)   Flip the loop over the yarn thread (direction marked by arrow) to make a pretzel like shape. The new position of the initial loop is highlighted in the second picture (Pic. 2)   Insert the hook below the thread (Pic. 3) 2

1

3

 

4

Pull the hook up so so that a loop forms around the hook (Pic. 4) and pull on the thread to tighten the loop around the hook (Pic. 5)    Wrap the thread of yarn from back to front over the hook, called  yarn over   (Pic. 6), and pull it through the loop that’s on the hook. This will count as the first chain stitch (Pic. 7)   Repeat previous step until you have the desired length chain (Pic. 8)

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 2. Anatomy of a single crochet stitch  X shaped stitches are created using the yarn under/yarn over method in single crochet (see chapter 4). The X shaped single crochet stitch is the t he best fit for amigurumi as it has a neater aspect and is tighter than the stitch created by the yarn over/yarn over method. The loops on top (shaped like a sideways V) form the top of the stitch, made of two loops (front and  back) and most stitches must be crocheted by inserting the hook through through either both or one of these loops (see next chapter).

 3. Inserting the hook through a stitch  The V shape on top is made from two loops. No matter what stitch you want to create, you must insert your hook through these loops. The way in  which you insert the hook will produce different results. 1. Inserting the hook under both loops  loops   (between the V on top and two of the Xs under it) This is the default way you will almost always insert the hook when doing amigurumi, if the pattern doesn’t specify differentl differently. y.

 

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The next two techniques of inserting the hook are typically used for aesthetic reasons, to create ribbing effects, ridges or sharp edges etc. 2. Inserting the hook through the back loop only   This is the second most used technique for inserting the hook in amigurumi. It leaves the front loops as a ridge which can be useful in multiple ways. A practical example for this is creating a sharp corner  when crocheting crocheting a cuboid. cuboid. Insert your hook through the middle of the V on top and under the loop that’s furthest away from you. Continue crocheting whichever whichever stitch you need after inserting your hook in the back loop.

3. Inserting the hook through the front loop only   This is the second most used technique for inserting the hook in amigurumi. It leaves the front loops as a ridge which can be useful in multiple ways. A practical example for this is creating a sharp corner  when crocheting crocheting a cuboid. cuboid. Insert the hook from the front, but instead of pushing it all the way through both loops, exit in the middle of the loops, grabbing only the loop closest to you on the hook. Continue crocheting crocheting  whichever stitch you need need after inserting inserting your hook in in the front loop. loop.

 

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 4. The single crochet stitch  The single crochet stitch (sc) is the most used stitch in amigurumi. It creates a neat, dense pattern, perfect for keeping the stuffing well contained. There are two ways of doing the single crochet stitch: 1. Yarn under/yarn over or the X stitch. This method creates a neater, denser, pixel-like look for amigurumi and uses less yarn, as you don’t loop the yarn over the hook two times.  Amigurumi created created this way will be slightly slightly smaller smaller than their their YO/YO counterpar counterparts, ts, as the stitch is inherently tighter. tighter. 2. Yarn over/yarn over or the Y stitch. This creates a looser type of stitch and is easier to  work into, but requires more care with with your tension tension as it’s easier easier to have gaps in your work work  when crocheting crocheting this way. I will only exemplify the Yarn under/yarn over method as this is the only one I ever use in my patterns. In this example I am working into the loops of a previously crocheted round. I will exemplify later how to work in rows or rounds.  

Insert the hook under the top loops, place the yarn thread under the hook. Drag the yarn back through the top loops, loops, as indicated by the arrow. arrow. (Pic. 1)    You now now have have two two loops loops on your hook. hook. Grab Grab the yarn thread again, this time time wrapping wrapping it over over your hook and drag in back through both of the loops on the hook, as indicated by the arrow. (Pic. 2)    You have now completed one single crochet stitch. Continue crocheting by repeating steps 1-2 into the following top loops, as instructed by the pattern you’re following. following.

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 5. Working single crochet stitches in rows  Start with a foundation chain, as described in Chapter 1, until you have the length you desire. Next, we will be working single crochet stitches in the loops of the foundation chain.  

Skip the first chain from the hook and insert the hook in the second chain from the hook, as

highlighted in Pic. 1. Grab the yarn under the hook and pull it back through the chain loop (Pic. 2)   Grab the yarn over the hook and pull it back through both loops on the hook at once (Pic. 3)  

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 You have now now completed completed your first single single crochet crochet stitch into the chain (Pic. 4) Continue with the above steps into each of the chain loops until you reach the end of the foundation chain (Pic. 5)  When you reach the end, make one chain. This is meant to help you turn the work in order to crochet the next row (Pic. 6) Flip the project horizontally. Do not work into the chain you just made, that was only meant to allow you to turn more easily. Instead, insert your hook into the second stitch from the hook (under the top loops of the last single crochet stitch you made in the previous row) and continue doing single crochet stitches until you reach the end of the row again (Pic. 7)  When you reach the the end of the row, chain chain 1 again, again, turn your your project project and continue continue in this way until  you complete the the required required number of rows.

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 6. The half double crochet stitch  1

The half double crochet stitch (hdc) is a stitch that provides more height than the single crochet stitch. In amigurumi, it is generall generally y used for accessories, clothes, etc. and not for the main body of the toy, as it runs the risk of allowing stuffing to show through.  

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To start, wrap the yarn over your hook (Pic. 1)    With the the yarn wrapped over it, insert your hook hook through through the next stitch. Wrap the yarn over the hook again and pull it back through only the first loop (Pic. 2)    You now have three loops on your hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again and pull it back through all three loops on your hook at once (Pic. 3)    Your half double double crochet crochet is now completed.

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7. The double crochet stitch  1

The double crochet stitch (dc) is a stitch that provides more height than the single crochet and half double crochet stitch. In amigurumi, like the half double is generally used for accessories, clothes, etc. crochet and not stitch, for theitmain body of the toy. Being even taller, it leaves even more empty spaces  between stitches, and it cannot hold the stuffing inside without it showing through.    

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To start, wrap the yarn over your hook (Pic. 1)  With the yarn wrapped over over it, insert your your hook through through the next stitch. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it back through only the loop you just went through. (Pic. 2)  You now have have three loops loops on your hook. Wrap the the yarn over the hook again and pull it back through the first two loops on  your hook at once once (Pic. 3)  You now have two loops loops left on your hook. Wrap the yarn one last time over the hook and pull it back through both the loops on your hook (Pic. 4)  Your double double crochet stitch is now completed. completed.

 

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 8. The magic ring  Most amigurumi are worked in a continuous spiral instead of rows. The most common way to start this is by crocheting into a magic ring.  

Place the yarn over your index and middle finger, as shown in Pic. 1   Bring the long end of the yarn under your fingers and cross it over the short s hort end of the yarn (Pic. 2), then wrap the long end all the way around and over the top of your fingers (Pic. 3) 1

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Insert the hook under the first thread and over the second thread (Pic. 4)   Drag the second thread with the hook back under the first thread (Pic. 5)   Twist the hook so that the thread forms a loop on the hook (Pic. 6)

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 With the the loop loop on the hook, hook, grab the the thread thread of yarn yarn over your hook (Pic. 7) and drag it back through the loop on your hook (Pic. 8)    You will now have have created created the knot knot that completes completes the the magic ring. ring. You can remove remove the magic magic ring from around your fingers (Pic. 9)

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 Arrange the the tail of the magic ring neatly neatly behind behind the loop (Pic. 10)   Grab the magic ring between the fingers of your non-hook holding hand and insert the hook through the ring (Pic. 11)   Grab the thread of yarn with the hook (Pic. 12) and drag it back through the ring – you should now have two loops on your hook (Pic. 13) 10

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 With two loops now on your your hook, yarn over again (Pic. 14) and pull the yarn through through both loops loops at once – you will now have completed the first single crochet crochet in your magic ring (Pic. 15)   Continue crocheting single single crochet stitches into the magic ring until you have the number called for by the pattern, which is most commonly commonly 6, as in Pic. 16   Close the magic ring by grabbing the ring and holding tight with one hand and pulling on the tail  with the other other hand until the ring disappears disappears and turns into a little little circle (Pic. (Pic. 17)   Now is where would start youryou second round by crocheting into theous stitch marked with the 6 in Pic. 18. From this point will crochet around in a continuous continu spiral, following thenumber the specific instructions in your pattern.

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9. Increasing Increasing is done by working two or more stitches stitches into the same stitch. It can be used for any stitch,  but I will be be exemplifying exemplifying single crochet increases. increases.  

 Work your first first single crochet crochet as you would would normally normally (Pic. 1)   Insert your hook right next to the green highlighted stitch, into the same stitch you worked the first single crochet into, and do another single crochet (Pic. 2) 1

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10. Decreasing (invisible decrease) The method most commonly used for decreasing in amigurumi is called the invisible decrease. It is done by grabbing two or more stitches on the hook together before completing your new stitch (effectively going going from two stitches to one). To achieve the invisible effect, you will only grab the front loops of the stitches you are crochetin crocheting g together. (Pic. 1)  

Insert the hook through the front loop of the next stitch (Pic. 2)   Insert the hook hook through the front loop of the second stitch (Pic. 3)    

Grab the yarn and pull it back through the first two loops on the hook (arrow in Pic. 3) Grab the yarn again and pull it through the two loops on the hook to complete the decrease. (Pic 4)

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11. The Slip stitch The slip stitch is the shortest stitch, that adds the least height to your work as it doesn’t have a pillar (like the X part of the single crochet stitch). In my patterns, this stitch is used when doing color changes, when joining rows or rounds occasionally, or to add a thin line of a different color on a toy (usually in the eyes). It begins the same way as a single crochet, but instead of yarning over a second time, you just complete complete the stitch with the first yarn you grabbed.  

Insert your hook in the next stitch and grab the yarn with your hook as you would for a single crochet (Pic. 1)   Pull the yarn back through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook (Pic. 2)   Pull the first loop through the second loop to complete the slip stitch (Pic. 3) 1

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12. Color changes  Many amigurumi include some degree of color changing throughout the project, and these changes, especially when done for full rounds can be quite noticeable. While there isn’t really a way to make them 100% seamless, this technique should help minimize the difference.  When your pattern calls for a color change, this color change always begins one stitch before. This means that you attach color 2 half-way through your last stitch of color 1 – you begin the stitch in color 1, grab color 2 and finish with color 2.  

Start by inserting your hook through the next stitch, grabbing the yarn and pulling it back through the stitch to form two loops on the hook (same as the first half of a single crochet stitch). (Pic. 1)   Now wrap the new color yarn on  your hook and pull it back through the two loops on your hook (Pic. 2)

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 You are now left with the new color yarn on your hook. hook. You could now continue crocheting normally, but we will take a few more steps to make the color transition look smoother. (Pic. 3)   In the next stitch, do a slip stitch (Pic. 4)   Finish crocheting the round following the instructions in  your pattern.  

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 When you reach the end of the round (Pic. 5), do one more slip stitch into the first slip stich you did at the beginning beginning of the round to complete the round (Pic. 6). You can continue crocheting normally after this.

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13. Crocheting around a chain  Crocheting around a chain is useful when you want to work in a continuous spiral but want to obtain a more oval or rectangular shape as opposed to the round you create when starting with a magic ring.  

To start, create a chain of the desired length. A shorter chain will create a rounder shape, a longer chain will create a narrower ellipse. ellipse. In this example, I begin by chaining 6. (Pic. 1)    After you make your base chain, begin the the first row normally, normally, doing a single crochet in the second second chain from the hook. Continue doing SC stitches into every chain of the hook (in my example, 3 more SC), stopping before the last one (following my example, at this point you will have a total of 4 SC stitches). st itches).   In the last chain, do 3 single crochet stitches in one stitch. This will help you turn the work to continue crocheting on the underside of the chain. 1

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Turn the work upside down, so that the single crochet stitches  you just created are facing down and continue working in the underside of the base chain. Crochet in each loop on the underside, stopping before before the last one (in my example, this will  be 3 SC stitches) stitches) (Pic. 4)    When you reach the last loop, do an increase into it (2 SC stitches into 1 stitch) (Pic. 5)   Crochet one more slip stitch into the first SC you did to close up thee round, but do not count this stitch. Place your stitch marker th into it and the first round is complete. From here on, you will typically crochet in a continuous spiral, following your pattern.

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14. Identifying the “right side”   The right side of your project is important because it will determine the aspect your finished piece will have. When you work from a magic ring,  your project has the tendency to curl wrong side out as you add more rounds, which is why at some point you must turn it right side out. The right side when working in the round can be determined by: 1. The tail of the magic ring must be on the inside of your project. 2. The right side of your project will show the neat X pattern  when working working in single single crochet. 3. When your project is right side out, you will be working clockwise around your project. The right side when working in rows is determined by the position of the tail of the beginning chain. When looking at the correct side, the chain  will be on your left. left.

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