Robin Glynn - Origami Page
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Origami by
Robin Glynn
obin n Glynn lynn's 's Orig riga ami Robi Diagrams
Animals
Boxes
Characters
Objects
Muppets
Robin Glynn's Origami Animals
2.
CAT BADGER
3.
TEDDY BEAR
4.
BLACK BELT IN ORIGAMI
5.
MONKEY
6.
MONKEY HEAD
7.
PENGUIN
8.
MISS MUFFET`S SPIDER
1.
Robin Glynn's Origami Boxes
2.
GIFT BOX STAR BOX
3.
HEART BOX
4.
TREASURE CHEST
1.
Robin Glynn's Origami Characters
2.
DRACULA DRACULA-PURELAND LAND VERSION DRACULA-PURE
3.
THE FROG PRINCE
4.
GHOST
5.
THE GRIM REAPER
6.
THANKS FOR THE CHOCOLATES
1.
DARLIN' 7.
C3PO
8.
TOTORO
Robin Glynn's Origami Objects
2.
THE EIFFEL TOWER TICK-TOCK CLOCK
3.
CANNON
4.
SUBMARINE
5.
FALSE TEETH
6.
KAYAK
7.
FLIPPER
8.
YACHT
9.
GLYNN'S GILDER
1.
Robin Glynn's Origami Muppets
2.
PIGGY BIG BIRD
3.
COOKIE MONSTER
4.
OSCAR THE GROUCH
5.
ROWLF
6.
FOZZIE BEAR
7.
KERMIT THE FROG
8.
GONZO
1.
Cat Good origami cats are rare creatures. I'm not too sure that this model does much to change that, but it does have it's own style and it is quite easy to fold. It was inspired by a cat called Gigi, who belonged to a witch in a superb Japanese animated film, Kiki's Delivery services.
Gigi the cat 2
1
4
3
6
5
7
8
12
9
13
14
Repeat steps 9 to 12 on the left side 17
10
18
15
11
16
Swivel points to top 19
Closed sink 20
Designed and diagrammed by Robin Glynn © January 1999
Gigi the cat 21
Fold 1 layer behind
22
23
Fold point down inside model 26
25
Squash folds 27
Swivel the ears (keeping double layer at the front)
28
Fold tip of nose. Make 'soft' petal folds to form eyes. 30
29
24
31
32
Rabbit ear
Designed and diagrammed by Robin Glynn © January 1999
Badger I nearly always design subjects that have either not been attempted before, or where there is no definitive masterpiece. Thus in my own small way, I can add to the great diversity of origami models that exists today. The problem is, so many origami creators have made such superb animal and insect designs that it is increasingly difficult to spot a gap in the market. In order to create an original origami creature these days you really need to look hard, and would probably have to choose an animal that hardly anybody would recognise anyway. Hey nobody's folded a situtunga yet! So it was to my great delight and surprise that I couldn't find any examples of that magnificent creature, the European Badger. So I've put that right!
Badger 2
1
4
3
5
8
12
9
6
7
10
11
Repeat steps 4 to 9 on the left side
13 14
15
Crease tip down just a little below the point behind
Crease a single layer down to half way between the two horizontal creases Inside reverse folds
16
17
Wrap one layer to the front (colour change)
18
© Robin Glynn September 1998
Badger 19
20
21
Fold sides towards the base of the 'imaginary' square
22
26
23
24
25
27
28 90º
31
30 29
33 32
Make 4 inside reverse folds
© Robin Glynn September 1998
Teddy Bear This was one of the first models I created and is still one of my favourites. One of my work colleagues saw me folding and asked if I could do a teddy bear. At the time, I did not know of such a model so I set about creating one. Amazingly, it only took about 20 minutes from the initial question to more or less the model presented here. As I have since discovered, designing models is not usually that easy, but that initial good fortune spurred me on to become a creator.
Teddy Bear 2
1
3
4
Fold the two points down
5
7
6
8
9 10
Crease through both layers only as far as circled points
11
12
Fold edges in, lifting the top point toward you
Flatten with a squash fold
13
Swivel head behind
14
Petal fold all the layers
Swivel head to the front
15
Squash fold while folding the double layers to the centre line
16
17
18
Make two inside reverse folds
Tuck the point up inside the model
© R.Glynn - July 1998
Teddy Bear 19
21
20
Reverse the point up inside the model
Petal fold
24
23
22
25
27
26
28
29
Squash fold 30
31
32
Repeat on the right side Round off the feet 33
34
Mountain fold to shape face
Crimp the feet while curving the body back slightly to make the legs '3D'
© R.Glynn - July 1998
Black Belt in Origami It's the standard question origami enthusiasts are asked by amateur comedians - "So, you do origami, are you a black belt?". Well now you can say yes! More than just a joke though, this is quite a pleasing human figure, and poses the challenge that it must be possible to create other origami models based on martial arts. Maybe there are other origami 'jokes' that can be folded too?
Black Belt in Origami 2
1
4
3
Preliminary fold
7
6
5
Fold the point up inside the model (you need to pull the model apart to do this)
Pull out the loose paper (it helps if you unfold to step 4 first)
8 9
10
11
This is the half way stage
12
13
14
15
Repeat steps 3-8 on this side
16
17
18
19
20 Swivel the point to the left
See step 20
Fold the point up inside the model (much harder than step 7!)
Line shown in step 18
Diagrammed by R.Glynn © February 1999
Black Belt in Origami 21
22
23
25
24
Tuck inside
Repeat steps 20-21 on the right
27
26
Wrap the double layer from behind to the front
Closed sinks
28
29
Sqash to form feet
Crimp
33 30
31
Tuck into pockets behind
34
32
Mountain fold shoulders, neck and head simultaneously
Release trapped paper from behind
Crimp
35
36
37
Diagrammed by R.Glynn © February 1999
Monkey I could not find a good diagram for a monkey. I remembered seeing Akira Yoshizawa's 'Swivel Monkey' which had a long tail and just seemed to capture the essence of a monkey. I believe that model was folded from 2 separate bird bases, so I decided to do something similar with a single square. This model is nowhere near as satisfying as the model that inspired it, but at least all the bits are in the right place! In the hands of a truly expert folder I am sure this model could look much better. It can be folded fairly comfortably with regular 15cm origami paper, but is better suited to wet folding.
Monkey 2
1
3
6 4
5
Crease the top layer only.
7
Unfold.
8
Bisect the angle.
10
Make 4 inside reverse folds on existing creases.
13
Form a warterbomb base.
9
Pleat again.
11
Unfold to step 7.
12
Repeat steps 7-10 on the left side.
14
15
Double pleat (like steps 7-8).
© R.Glynn March 2000
Monkey 16
18
17
Double pleat the 4 layers.
Unfold to step 14.
Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the left side.
20
19
Make 2 sets of inside reverse folds, as in step 10.
Reverse fold the 2 points.
23
Finally, 4 more sets of reverse folds.
24
2
22
21
25
1
Wrap 1 layer over the point. Fold the flap on the right first.
Rabbit ear.
26
27
Rabbit ear.
Valley fold the top down while tucking the point behind to lock.
28
29
30
From this...
Seperate the 2 inner layers, no new creases are required.
...to this
From this...
...to this
Reverse the existing creases so the flap is inside the model.
© R.Glynn March 2000
Monkey 31
33
32
34
Narrow the sides. Repeat steps 27-30 on the left side.
35
Make a sharp crease.
37
36
Valley and mountain fold each side to make the ears.
38
Round off the ears.
The nose can be shaped by slightly 'inflating' the point.
Fold the head down.
39
Use simple valley and mountain
40
41
Gently squash fold the hands.
Bend the legs into shape.
Twist the feet and spread the paper a little to make the feet wider.
folds to shape the arms.
43
42
44
45
Rabbit ear.
Give the tail a nice curve.
© R.Glynn March 2000
Monkey Head I don't usually repeat an origami subject, but this model was created in response to a challenge set for one of our London mini meetings. It came out fairly well.
Monkey Head
1
2
3
Turn over.
5
4
6
Reverse fold.
8
7
9
Reverse fold.
11
12
Fold the edges, the model will not lie flat.
10
Repeat steps 5-8 on the other side.
14
13
Fold the point down using step 11 as a guide. The model will no longer lie flat. The circled areas should be 'popped' inside out as the flap is folded down.
© Robin Glynn May 2004
Monkey Head
15
Swivel the other side to match.
Make a small swivel fold.
19
17
16
20
18
Valley fold, allowing the flap behind to flip to the fromt.
21
22
2 small mountain folds to lock the mouth.
23
24
25
25b
The next step just shows the circled flap.
26
27
28
If the paper is not too small, round the eye with mountain folds.
Squash fold.
30
29
31
Shape the ears.
© Robin Glynn May 2004
Penguin A rare model for me, a simple one! A challenge was set to create a model in less than 10 folds. Nearly all of my models would be classified 'high intermediate'. Such models may be fairly difficult to fold, but they are a lot easier to design than simple models. Simple models demand a great deal of thought about what features are important, and how to capture the essence of something with just a few folds. Saying that, a penguin is hardly original! Although it came out OK, I really must go back and create a few more easy models, but with more originality.
9 Fold Penguin 2
1
3 1/3
1/4
The proportions don't have to be precise!
4 5
6 7
8
9
Tuck into the pocket.
© Robin Glynn January 2002
Miss Muffet's Spider Here's a subject I usually avoid, origami insects. There are so many super-complex anatomically accurate insect models around these days days that I don't feel tempted tto o join in. But when I was given a challenge to design a model based on a Nursery Rhyme the idea of a comic spider for Miss Muffet appealed to me. I am quite quit e pleased with my 'old school' approach to multiple legs.
Miss Muffet's Spider 1
2
Lightly pinch 2 small creases.
Begin with a 4x1 rectangle (a quarter of a square). Crease in half.
3
4
2 more valley creases, then turn over.
Make 2 mountain creases
5
6
Try not to crease the middle section.
7
8
Pleat on the creases made in steps 3 and 4.
9
10
11
Fold to the middle.
12
13
Don't fold all the way to the middle.
© Robin Glynn April 2001
Miss Muffet's Spider 14
15
16
Unfold the 2 edges (not the middle).
17
18
Pleat the legs (not the body). Sink diamond shapes as the model becomes 3 dimensional
Squash folds.
19
20
Repeat steps 17 and 18 on the right side. Double reverse fold to form a set of leg joints.
22 21
Double reverse fold the feet. Variation: I usually add a further set of shallow double reverse folds to raise the angle of the legs.
23
Little Miss Muffet, sat on a tuffet, tuff et, Eating her curds and whey, Along came a spider, who sat down down beside her And frightened Miss Muffet away. Make soft squash folds for the eyes and curve the body.
© Robin Glynn April 2001
Gift Box This is a simple model that works really well with decorative paper, especially if the paper is fairly stiff. It was quite simple to design, but it took a while to come up with a folding sequence that made no uneccesary creases.
Gift Box 3
2
1
Pinch the half way points
5
4
Using the circled areas as a guide valley fold the bottom corner up to the top edge
Fold the corners to the middle using the pinch marks as a guide
6
8
7 90º
Crease as far as the marked point then unfold completely Rotate the paper ¼ turn.
Repeat steps 3-6 on the other 3 corners
9
Begin to form a box
3
10 2
4
1 Continue to colapse the box, incorporating the creases from step 5
Finished box. Close by folding each flap to the middle in the order shown.
11
Tuck the last flap under to lock the box
© Robin Glynn October 1999
Star Box I've always enjoyed the modular boxes designed by Tomoko Fuse. I wanted to create my own box, but with a shape that hadn't been tried before. After designing this model I can see why there weren't any other star shaped boxes. It took 2 minutes to decide on the shape and then 2 months before I finally had a completed model. I am quite proud of this model and even though you need to fold 12 sheets to create the box, I think that the time and effort are worth it. I could probably improve the locking method in the base though.
6 Pointed star box - base 2
1
3
only crease between these lines
Begin with a square creased into quarters horizontally
4
5
6
8
7
9
B Inside reverse fold the double layer by lifting the top flap
A
Crease so line A runs parallel to line B
10
11
12 Valley fold the 2 inner layers
Make the whole thing 3D
© R.Glynn July 1998
Make 5 more
6 Pointed star box - base Assembly 13 14 Fold the corner of the tab over the hidden flap to lock it in place
Slot 2 units together
15
16
Mountain fold flap behind Assemble Assemb le remaining remaining 4 units units
© R.Glynn - July 1998
6 Pointed star box - lid 1
2
3
1/2
1/4 Fold the top edge to the pinch mark
Make a small pinch 1/16 from the edge of the square
1/8 1/16
4
5 6
only crease between these lines
7
8
9
B
A
Crease so line A runs parallel to line B
11
10
Unfold then valley fold left edge using the circled guide point
14
12
Valley fold back up to the circled guide point on layer below
15
Make unit 3D
13
© R.Glynn July 1998
6 Pointed star box - lid Assembly 16 Insert tab into pocket (mate the two turned over top edges).
Note how point tucks inside neighbouring module
17
......Assemble remaining 4 units
Mountain fold behind to lock
© R.Glynn - July 1998
Heart Box This is another shape of box that I had not seen before. This is quite a tricky fold to do and may require the folder to do a bit of adjustment (or fudging) in order to get a good result. The thickness of the paper seems to have quite an effect on the finished item. I usually use fairly stiff paper (90-100gsm).
Heart box (base) 1 3
2
Keep the other half for the lid. Cut a sheet of A4 half lengthways.
4
6
5
Squash fold.
6b
7
7b
x
x
Squash fold so that 'X' lies along the horizontal edge....
8
9
Swivel some paper behind. 11
Wrap one layer behind. 12
....Like this.
10
Mountain crease the 'tab'. 13
Crease through all the layers.
© Robin Glynn March 2001
Heart box (base) 15
14
Unfold back to step 11.
17
16
Mountain crease the diagonals.
19 18
Squash fold. Model becomes 3 dimensional.
Petal fold.
20
21
Swivel 4 segments. Tuck point up inside. It's easier if you seperate the bottom edges during the move.
© Robin Glynn March 2001
Heart box (base) 22
23
Tuck the layer under the pocket. 24
25
Repeat steps 21-23 on this side. 26 Tuck behind to lock.
Slide the tab into the pocket.
Now for the lid....
© Robin Glynn March 2001
Heart box (lid) 3
2
1
2mm
2mm
Fold the top edge so it is about
Unfold.
2mm from the bottom.
4
5
Fold so that the top corner lies on the horizontal crease.
6
Crease using the circled corner as a guide.
7
8b
8
Squash fold. 9
10
9b
x
x
Squash fold so that 'X' lies along the horizontal edge.... 11
Swivel some paper behind.
.....like this. 12
Wrap one layer behind.
13
Mountain crease the 'tab'.
© Robin Glynn March 2001
Heart box (lid) 14
16
15
Crease through all the layers.
17
18
Unfold back to step 13.
19
20
Mountain fold using the tab as a guide.
Reinforce as valley folds.
21
22
Mountain crease the diagonals.
Squash fold. Model becomes 3 dimensional. 24
23
Petal fold
Tuck point up inside. It's easier if you seperate the bottom edges during the move.
© Robin Glynn March 2001
Heart box (lid) 25
26
Swivel 4 segments. 27
Tuck the layer under
28
the pocket. Repeat steps 25-27 on this side. 29
30
Tuck the small flap behind to lock.
30b
Turn over Slide the tab into the pocket.
31
Finished! Mountain fold the tip inside the model (you may need to reorganise the hidden layers to free the tip).
© Robin Glynn March 2001
Treasure Chest Another unusual shape. There's quite a lot of pre-creasing involved and the curved lid section is a bit tricky but the end result is worth it. I am quite pleased with the lock and catch technique which relies on friction and tension to hold the lid closed. Now all you need is to find where you can get wood effect paper.
page 1
Treasure chest Pre-creasing
2
1
4
5
7
6
8
¼
3
9
Make 2 valley folds using circled reference points
¼ ¼ Add smaller creases¼ these will become 'planks'
10
11
13
12
14 15
Colour change Swivel fold the edges
16
18
17
s t s se g me n 5 s
Pinch a curved mountain crease through both layers Fold creases 90º (not flat)
© Robin Glynn - November 1997
page 2
Treasure chest 19
20
Fold this side flat
21
Next step viewed from here
Form a valley fold so that the curved mountain crease lies on the straight crease above it
Squash fold (repeat on right)
23 22 Unfold back to step 16 90º fold to make sides flush with the 5 segments of the lid
25
26
24 Reform the lid (steps 18 to 23) extending creases at circled points
27
28
29
Repeat all steps on this side
Tuck rear flaps behind to lock lid folds. Form the front of the chest using existing creases.
The next few steps are viewed from inside the box
32 30
31
31
Rabbit ear
34
33
Mountain crease tab To lock, hold circled corners and gently push the middle of the base while inserting tab
Tuck behind
© Robin Glynn - November 1997
Dracula This model was designed for a Halloween themed challenge. He's not exactly scary, but he has a certain charm. After deciding to create a Dracula model, I struggled for quite a while trying to create the teeth with enough paper left to do the rest. The part I was most pleased with at the end was the eyes. I have not seen any other model that creates eyes in this way.
Dracula
2
1
3
Crease into thirds.
4
5
Preliminary fold.
Crease the top layer.
6
7
8
9
Inside reverse folds.
Sink.
11
10
12
13
Unfold.
© Robin Glynn September 2001
Dracula 15
14
16
17
Double reverse folds.
Squash folds.
18
19
20
180º Crease firmly through all layers.
21
22
Crease again, incorporating 2 reverse folds.
23
Fold again, incorporating squash folds.
26
25
24
Flatten with a valley fold. Valley fold inside.
Open up one side. Do not flatten.
28
27
30
29
Repeat steps 24-26 on the other side. Fold down, waterbomb folding 2 double layers.
© Robin Glynn September 2001
Dracula 31
32
Swivel.
35
33
Swivel a single layer.
34
Repeat steps 31-32 on the other side.
36
37
Swivel out up to the circled areas.
Tuck behind.
38
40
39
The next few steps will only show part of the mode.
42
41
Swivel again to form an eye. Still don't flatten.
Swivel but do not flatten.
43
Repeat steps 40 and 41 on the other side.
Squash flat to create a nose.
© Robin Glynn September 2001
Dracula 46
45
44
Swivel some more paper behind to narrow the nose.
47
Tuck the circled tip under the other layers.
48
Valley fold the fangs.
49
50
Shape with mountain and valley folds.
© Robin Glynn September 2001
Dracula - Pureland version Just to prove I can fold simpler models too!
Pureland Dracula
1
3
2
5
6
7
4
8
9
10
12
11
13
Press the sides and he bites!
© Robin Glynn September 2002
The Frog Prince This was created for a fairy tale challenge. This is quite a sculptural model, but it does not need to be wet folded.
The Frog Prince 1
2
3
4 5
6
7
Fold one layer to the right. No extra creases are made.
8
9
10
Squash fold.
13
14
12
11
Swivel fold
15
Repeat steps 7-10 on the opposite side.
17
16
Round off the edges of the eyes.
Fold the points to just below the horizontal edge.
Squash folds.
© R.Glynn February 2000
The Frog Prince 18
19
...Like this.
Petal fold...
23
24
Crease the double layer only.
28
25
27
26
Bring the hidden layer to the front.
Petal fold.
29
22
21
20
30
31
Mountain fold the tops of the legs.
Pinch the sides of the legs to make them 3-Dimensional and form the feet.
32
Precrease the front legs.
33
Pinch the paper to begin forming a foot.
34
Fold using the Creases made in step 30, while changing the angle of the foot. Repeat steps 31-32 on the right.
35
Form the mouth. Start by making slightly cuvred mountain crease.
Mountain folds to lock the front feet and shape the head.
36
Shape the crown.
© R.Glynn February 2000
Ghost
I had seen one or two origami ghost models, but none that really looked right to me. I wanted to see the sort of 'Scooby Doo' sheet over the head type of ghost. Just as well really as I don't seem to be able to do 'scary'.
Ghost
1
Here only
2
3
Make a small pinch.
4
5
6
7
8
9
Unfold everything!
11
12
10
Unfold.
© Robin Glynn January 2003
Ghost
13
14
15
Add the last few pre-creases.
16
17
18
Using existing creases, begin to collapse by reinforcing the indicated mountain folds.
18b
Continue to collapse by adding the indicated valley folds.
Complete the collapse by pleating the edges so that they meet.
20
19
Viewed from the side.
© Robin Glynn January 2003
Ghost
22
21
Fold the top layer only. The circled point is a reference for step 23.
24
23
Squash fold flat.
25
Valley fold. The crease goes through the circled reference point shown in step 21.
26
Repeat steps 21-23 on the other side. Swivel folds.
28
27
29
Swivel folds.
© Robin Glynn January 2003
Ghost
30
31
32
Squash fold asymmetrically.
33
34
Use curved mountain folds to shape the mouth and give the body volume.
Gently curve the sides so they undulate.
35
Shape the tail.
© Robin Glynn January 2003
The Grim Reaper Another model that I haven't seen done before. And another model of mine that came out more cute than scary!
The Grim Reaper 1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Unfold everything!
Crease single layer only.
10
11
12
Crease single layer only.
© Robin Glynn June 2002
The Grim Reaper
13
16
14
17
15
18
19
20
21
Unfold back to step 16.
Mountain crease through all layers up to the circled point.
Outside reverse fold.
22
23
Another mountain crease.
Rabbit ear on existing creases.
© Robin Glynn June 2002
The Grim Reaper 24
27
26
25
29
28
Unfold to step 26.
Crimp.
30
31
Fold arm using existing creases, but incorporate a small reverse fold on the top layer only. This will help the model to stand up.
32
Make soft, rounded creases to finish off.
© Robin Glynn June 2002
Thanks for the chocolates darlin'
This was for a Valentines day challenge. Not exactly a romantic model, but I do like action models (and chocolate!).
Thanks for the chocolates darlin'
1
2
3
Crease only to the centre line.
4
5
Make a small pinch.
6
Crease up to the pinch marks.
8
7
9
Mountain fold behind using the creases made in step 5.
10
Lift the flap up. The next few steps show only the circled area.
11
12
© Robin Glynn January 2003
Thanks for the chocolates darlin'
12b
180
13
14
Rotate 180°.
15
Fold at a slight angle, but only crease as far as the centre line.
16
17
Squash flat.
Tuck behind. To make the angle, you need to incorporate a squash fold.
18
19
18b
20
90
22
21
Fold the tips of the corners down a little.
Crimp so the circled points lie on the diagonal lines.
Mountain fold, but try not to crease too firmly in the circled areas.
© Robin Glynn January 2003
Thanks for the chocolates darlin' 23
24 25
Valley folds. Crease through both layers, in both directions (mountain and valley).
Make 2 large rabbit ears, pulling the points apart and making the model 3-dimensional.
26
Wrap a single layer behind (the same as refolding step 25 as an outside reverse
27
Squash folds to make the hands. The creases do not have to be sharp.
fold).
27b 28
29
Tuck inside. Lift the points a little. The next few steps show how to finish off the hands.
Move the arms....
Yum ...and her mouth opens
© Robin Glynn January 2003
C3PO This is my one and only Star Wars model. I've tried a few other Star Wars subjects without a lot of success.
C3PO
1
4
3
2
6
5
1/3
Valley fold, see step 5 for exact positioning
8
7
9
1/2
1/3
10
1/4
11
12
14
15
1/4
13
Unfold to step 13
© R.Glynn August 1999
C3PO 16
18
17
Refold step 12 incorporating a crimp to form the top of the mouth Add anoth another er crease crease just just be below low the crease from step 14
19
unfold again, then refold incorporating a crimp to form the bottom half of the mouth
21
20
Rabbit ear
22
23
24
Model will not lie flat from now on
Squash fold
26
25
27
Inside reverse fold
28
Sink the corners to form two ovals
Repeat steps 22-26 on the left side
30
29
Make the top of the head rounder
Lock the top of the head with a mountain fold, round the sides of the head
© R.Glynn August 1999
Totoro This is a character from a charming Japanese animated film - My Neighbor Totoro. The film is by the legendary Hayao Miyazaki and if you are unfamiliar with his work, I urge you to investigate.
Totoro 1
2
3
4 5
6
Unfold model and reform on existing creases, bringing the trapped paper to the front
11
7
8
9
10
Petal fold
12
13
Bring raw edges to the front
15
14
17
16
18
19
Designed and diagrammed by Robin Glynn © February 1999
Totoro 21
20
23
24
Repeat steps 20-23 on left side
22
25
26
27
28
29
30 31
Designed and diagrammed by Robin Glynn © February 1999
The Eiffel Tower Years ago, I was proudly showing showing off an Aztec pyramid design I'd created only to discover it had already been done before. The technique to create the steps of the pyramid was very logical and therefore easily discovered by others. I decided that the technique could be applied to other models and almost instantly, the Eiffel Tower popped into my head. I quite enjoy folding this model, but it is a labour of love. It takes me around 3 hours to fold.
Eiffel tower 1
2
Crease into thirds
3
Crease into 3rds again to make 9ths
4
Crease into 3rds once more to make 27ths Form a small box in the centre of the paper
6
5
Repeat the procedure in step 4 to make the box taller
Repeat step 5 again to make the box 3 segments tall
© Robin Glynn - July 1998
Eiffel tower 7
8
Make sharp mountain creases bisecting the first flat segment at the base of the tower
Make another step starting half a segment from the tall stack
9 10
Make the step 2 segments tall
Add another step
11
12
Make this step 2 segments tall
Make another 2 segment step as in steps 10 & 11
© Robin Glynn - July 1998
Eiffel tower 13
14
Mountain fold a curved arch while 'fanning' the layers inside the model
Fold the last step
15
16
View fron underside showing 'fan'
Repeat step 14 on the other 3 sides
17 Make the top slightly pointed
© Robin Glynn - July 1998
Tick-Tock Clock
Robert Lang is renowned for his complex models, and among his most famous models is a cuckoo clock. Somebody on the origami mailing list joked that his next model would be a working clock that ticked. That got me thinking that a ticking ti cking clock would not be all that difficult to do. Origami models that make a noise are something of a rarity and I am quite proud of this model.
Tick-Tock Clock 1
2
3
4
5
Unfold.
Begin with a 2x1 Rectangle.
6
7
8
Valley crease again.
Valley fold at the approximate angle shown. Note land mark.
Valley fold the other side, making sure the crease does not start from the intersection.
8b 10
9
Preliminary fold.
11
12
Crease lightly up to the circled reference point.
Crease horizontally through the intersection.
13
14
© Robin Glynn March 2002
Tick-Tock Clock 15
16
17
Pull out a hidden layer - It helps to unfold the model slightly. Rabbit ear.
20
19
18
Swing to the left.
Squash fold.
Repeat steps 16-18 on the other side.
23
24
25
21
22
Swing to the front. Rabbit ear.
26
28
27
Pull out the topmost hidden layers only.
Squash fold.
Valley fold the sides down.
© Robin Glynn March 2002
Tick-Tock Clock 29
30
31
Valley fold 90° (The model is no longer flat).
Rabbit ear, so the tip touches the top of the 'pendulum'.
32 33
34
When the pendulum is swung, it should tick (and tock).
If not, adjust the rabbit ear a little.
35
Hold where circled, and spread out the bottom of the 'fan' to form the pendulum.
© Robin Glynn March 2002
Cannon When I was at school, everybody had a nickname. This model was created because my best friend's nickname was 'Cannon'. He was actually called Cannon after his similarity to the TV detective of the same name, but after a while, anything to do with cannons was associated with him. My nickname was vicar (I won't say why) but I have not been tempted to do an origami version yet.
1.
4.
2.
5.
3.
6.
7.
8.
9.
11. 10.
12.
Stretch and collapse on creases made in step 5
Repeat steps 10 and 11 on opposite corner.
Pull corner
13.
Inside reverse fold partially hidden corners to the centre (top 2 corners only)
14.
15. Add creases for the wheels. Crease horizontals, diagonals then bisect again
Try to crease the top layer only. You may find it easier to make these creases at step 2.
16.
17. Squash the 4 edges as far as they will go
18. Valley fold the 2 partially hidden edges
Sink the tops of the wheels
19.
20.
Make the whole model 3D Do not fold the wheels Make the barrel round
21. Fold the tail so the edges are vertical
22.
23.
Completed
Crimp the tail
Why not try making a few modifications? A rim can be added to the wheels. The crimp in the tail can be made stronger. The underside can be folded to lock the wheels.
Submarine I was thinking about modes of transport and how they were represented in origami and realised that I had never seen a model of a submarine. I like the fact that the model looks symmetrical, but is folded asymmetrically.
Submarine 1
2
4
5
7
3
6
8
9
Fold both sides up in line with the hidden double layer.
Unfold back to step 4.
10
12
11
Try not to crease inside the horizontal creases in the middle
Preliminary fold.
13
14
15
Vally fold up using the circled crease intersections as a guide.
180º
16
Squash fold using the existing creases.
Rotate 180°
© Robin Glynn June 2001
Submarine 18b
18a
17
Repeat steps 12 to 16 on the other flap.
18c
Top view of layers
Top view of layers
Re-fold step 15, arranging the layers so that 'X' is on the inside.
20
19
21
Sink.
Petal fold.
22
23
24
25
Sink the tip.
26b
26
27
Outside reverse fold.
28
29
30
Mountain fold the tip level with the over side. Fold the model in half and tuck the flaps in the pockets.
© Robin Glynn June 2001
Submarine 31
33
32
Inside reverse fold using the inner layers as a guide.
Inside reverse fold again.
Gently open to reveal a square, do not flatten.
35 34
37
33
Valley folds. Lift the pocket, squash and flatten (all one move).
38
39
40
Petal fold.
Reverse folds.
41
Squash folds.
Preliminary fold.
45 42
44
43
Crease through all layers.
Swivel 90º.
46
47
Squash fold.
Petal fold.
49
48
Swing the point across and reverse fold.
The next view is looking into the nose with the flaps slighty apart.
Wrap (colour change) one of the double layers. You need to unfold the paper a little to do this.
50
51
Valley fold the fins so they stick out.
Lock the front of the model by tucking one point under the other (unfold a bit to make it easier).
© Robin Glynn June 2001
False Teeth
After creating the 'joke' model of 'Blackbelt in Origami', I tried to think of more jokes. Then I remembered the chattering false teeth that you see in joke shops and created this model.
1
2 3
Crease into 8ths
5
Crease the edges into 16ths
4
Crease lightly Fold to crease from step 3 and turn over
6 7
8
9
10
12
11
Pinch the sides of the 'tube' - model will not lie flat
13
15
14
Wrap one layer behind (colour-change)
Tuck point down inside the model
16
Repeat steps 10-14 on the left side
18
17
19
Tuck the top edges down inside the model
21
20
Tuck the corners behind using the crease made in step 17 as a guide
22
23
Crease more mountain folds Make two mountain creases
24
25 26 Make 'teeth' 3-Dimensional repeating on
Make whole model 3-Dimensional
all four corners
27 Tuck corners up inside model
Kayak This model was a commission from a new boat shop that was opening. They asked if I knew of an origami kayak model. After searching the origami database I decided it would be a good idea to create my own.
Kayak 1
2
Begin with a square, coloured side up.
4
Fold the corner to the crease made in step 2. Note the fold originates at the base of the crease made in step 1.
5
Fold and unfold. Note the circled reference points.
7
3
8
6
180
Unfold everything and rotate the paper 180 degrees.
9
Repeat steps 3-6.
10
Fold on existing creases, do not flatten yet.
Add more creases.
12
11
Squash fold.
Rearrange the layers on the right so both sides interlock.
Repeat steps 9-10 on the left side.
13
Fold and unfold.
© Robin Glynn March 2004
Kayak 14
Fold and lift the flap. Do not flatten yet.
18
Refold steps 15-16, but starting with a mountain fold so the layers are on the inside.
22
17
16
15
19
Refold steps 15-18 on the right side.
23
Continue pulling the flap to the left and flatten, allowing the folds to overlap a little.
20
This is a bit like step 18, only harder! Turn the top section inside-out so that the circled areas are inside the model.
Unfold back to step 15.
21
Do the same to the bottom half.
24
Make small valley and mountain folds to tidy up the sides. Turn over.
Concertina a single layer to make the model 3-dimensional. The next view is shown from the side.
© Robin Glynn March 2004
Flipper This model was inspired by a free cardboard gift that came out of a packet of crisps. I'm not the only odd-ball though, at my next origami mini meeting Dave Brill brought along his own version. Either great minds think alike or we just eat too many crisps!
1 2
3
4
5
Make 3 more Make 4 3x8 rectangles from 2 differently coloured squares
6
7
8
Insert the 4 tabs
9
10
11
Completed Swivel flaps to the sides
Tuck flaps into pockets while closing model
Yacht Ichild's wanted to create mysuch ownamodel anditdecided to create complex a yacht that looked like Ialike drawing. For simpleboat shape, is a surprisingly model to fold. li ke the way all the internal layers are hidden behind the final shape.
Yacht
1
2
Crease through both layers, but only on the top half of the paper.
Fold in half.
7
6
5
Mountain fold behind, a little lower than where the diagonal crease meets the edge (this distance will be the height of the mast).
9
4
3
10
8
Crease the diagonals to the centre. Onle crease through the top 2 layers.
Unfold the top and bottom.
10a
10b
This shows the halfway position.
13
12
11
Unfold everything!
Collapse. This is similar to step 10.
© Robin Glynn May 2001
Yacht 14
15
16
Fold in half while collapsing the middle section on the creases indicated.
Make 4 open sinks.
20
19
18
17
Unfold to step 15 but do not flatten.
Unfold again, but do not flatten.
Fold in half while collapsing the 2 sections (just like in step 15).
21
22
For the next few steps only the circled area is shown.
Fold and stretch.
23
Valley fold.
24
25
Repeat steps 21-23 on the other side. Fold back again while collapsing on the existing creases.
© Robin Glynn May 2001
Yacht 26
27
28
Crease through all layers. Fold in half and flatten.
29
Valley fold both layers up.
30
32
31
Inside reverse fold. Squash fold.
Wrap a single layer behind. To do this easily, you need to unfold the model slightly.
33
34
Valley fold and tuck behind all the other layers.
35
36
Crease all layers.
Inside reverse fold the front only.
Valley fold the corner and tuck behind to lock.
37
38
Valley fold inside.
Mountain fold the inner layers to lock.
If you round the base of the model it will stand up.
© Robin Glynn May 2001
Glynn's Glider This glider broke the British record for long distance, and when trimmed properly is a very consistent flyer. fl yer. The picture shows a variation where I curve the wings rather than fold them.
Start with a sheet of A4
To line up the existing crease to the middle of the paper, re-fold a corner from step 1....
...like this
Valley fold sides in while tucking circled points under the centre flap
1/3 approx
If required, lightly raise the rear edges of the wings
© Robin Glynn - October 1997
Piggy This is quite a complex model, but the results are worth it. Miss Piggy took a long time to develop. When I first tried to create a model I intended just to create the head and began by concentrated on her lovely eyes with long curly lashes. Nothing seemed to work, I just created rather odd looking pig heads. I decided tried whata else defined her character. That's when the ideato ofchange a pig intactics a skirt and stuck me!to It think still took lot of experimenting, but then all of a sudden a lightbulb appeared above my head and a virtually omplete model came out of nowhere. I wish I could work out how these ideas jump out. If only I was that smart all the time.
Miss Piggy 2
1
3
Crease the 4 corners.
4
45º
6
5
Petal fold. Squash fold. Preliminary fold.
7
8
9
10
Repeat steps 5-8 on the right side
11
180º
14
13
12
Crease one layer only, so the edge touches the centre.
Squash fold using the crease made in step 12.
Squash again - see step 15 for where to flatten the sides.
© R.Glynn October 2000
Miss Piggy 15
The tip of the squash fold should lie along the layer behind, as circled.
16
17
18
Wrap a single layer behind (colour change). To do this you need to partially unfold the model.
Tuck behind.
19
20
21
23
24
25
22
26
Crease the square but not the model behind
Swing back to make the model symetrical
27
29
28
Inside reverse fold the top layer, a hidden double layer will also move.
Preliminary fold
30
Inside reverse fold the top layer.
Repeat steps 27-29 ont the left side.
© R.Glynn October 2000
Miss Piggy 31
32
Fold flap to left so the model is symetrical.
35
33
34
Petal fold.
36
38
37
x
x Pull the 2 points to unfold the 'bird base'.
39
40
Sink the middle and bring the sides in to flatten.
Valley fold the existing creases, bringing point 'X' towards you.
41
42
Fold the point down, creasing a little above the layer behind.
43
Bring the layer behind to the front.
44
45
46
Squash fold. The valley creases line up with the edges of the hidden sunk point.
Pull out some paper.
© R.Glynn October 2000
Miss Piggy 47
48
49
50
Tuck inside.
51
Valley fold as far as possible.
Repeat steps 50-51 on the other side.
55
54
53
52
56
Seperate the double layers and allow 'X' to move behind.
Inside reverse folds.
57
Mountain fold to narrow the neck (repeat behind).
58 59
Squash fold the feet.
Make soft squash folds for the hands.
© R.Glynn October 2000
Big Bird The basic idea for Big Bird came to me in just a few seconds, but it just wasn't quite right. The model needed to have scruffy feathers to make it look right. I struggled for a while then gave up. Some time afterwards I was in a hospital waiting room and I needed something to take my mind off of things so I took a sheet of paper out of my wallet, I always carry a few sheets of mini sized paper with me - just in i n case! It was a yellow sheet. As I looked down at the paper the idea for a Big Bird model complete with feathers came out of nowhere. 30 minutes later and there was the finished model.
Big Bird 2
1
4
3
5
6
45º
7
8
9
10
11
Repeat steps 5 and 6 on the other 3 sides
12
Fold 1 layer to the right (front and back to even up the layers on each side)
Fold 2 layers to the left
13
15
14
16
180º
Valley fold the 2 small points. Note that the lower edges are slightly above the centre crease
Fold 1 layer to the top
Squash fold asymetrically or see the box below
Much harder still, if you form tiny 'bird bases' on the centre layers, the eyes turn out like this
An alternative is to squash fold symetrically, this is a bit fiddly but the eyes will eventually look like this
Big Bird character © Children’s Television Workshop, Origami model © Robin Glynn July 1999
Big Bird
17
Make 3 small mountain folds to round off each eye
Swivel a point to the left so that it continues the line of the bottom edge
23 22
20
19
18
Swivel the other point to the right
24
21
Unfold
Valley fold the three points to the centre
25
Inside reverse fold the 3 points
26
Valley fold the point up note that the horizontal crease is slightly above the existing diagonal crease
Make small valley fold to form feathers
Make 2 sharp creases about half way to the centre line
28
27
These creases should be made lightly, just bending the paper
Make the beak 3-dimensional, gently curving the head back
Gently squeeze the sides to make the beak open and close
Big Bird character © Children’s Television Workshop, Origami model © Robin Glynn July 1999
Cookie Monster When it came to creating a Cookie Monster model, I started by just creating a pair of googly eyes. After that, the rest of the model more or less fell into place. Despite being easy to design, there is one tricky procedure that requires some of the paper to be turned inside out. I would recommend using a fairly large sheet of paper to start with.
Cookie Monster 1
4
2
3
5
6
Repeat steps 2-4 on the opposite side
7
8
More pre-creasing
9
12
11
10
14
13
15
3 Inside reverse folds
Repeat steps 10-14 on the left side
Designed and diagrammed by R.Glynn © August 1999
Cookie Monster 17
16
19
18
Petal fold
Closed-sink the sides
20
21
Fan out the layers do not flatten
Valley fold, stretching the sides wider apart
22
Turn over Mountain fold the next segment
23
Valley fold the final section to flatten the model
24
25
Squash fold
26
27
28
29
31
30
Make 4 small mountain folds to form the 'Cookie'
33
32
34
Inside reverse fold
Inside reverse fold
Designed and diagrammed by R.Glynn © August 1999
Cookie Monster 35
36
37
Fold a single layer down inside the model
40
2/3
38 1/4
39
Squash folds
41
42
43
Swivel one of the pupils to make the eyes uneven
44
46
45
Make the body 3D adding a gentle curve to the mouth
Simple valley and mountain folds to angle the arms
Round off the eyes
47
Tuck the corner of the arms inside the side of the model, pinch the hands to form fingers
Designed and diagrammed by R.Glynn © August 1999
Oscar the Grouch Oscar the Grouch is one of my favourite characers from Sesame Street. This model is i s fun to fold and is satisfyingly 3 dimensional.
Oscar the Grouch
1
2
3
4
5
6
Crease through both layers into 8ths
7
1 2 3
8
4 5 6 Add
a few more more cr crease eases s
And again again into into 16ths 16ths
9
Crease the front 2 layers only ..Like this
While valley folding the sides, narrow the top part of the model...
12 13
11
10
1/3 approx
Interlock the edges...
..Like this
Valley fold so that the visible white segments are squares
14
Insid side re rever verse fold lds s
15
17
16
Inside re reverse fo folds lds
Unfold
s th i s t h k k e .L i . L
18
Sink the sides
Diagrammed by R.Glynn © August 1999
Oscar the Grouch 19
21
20
1/3
Make a tiny valley and mountain fold to form the top of the mouth
22 23
25
26
24
27
Make the eyes rounder
28
Make the whole model 3d, rounding the trash can and Oscar's mouth
Diagrammed by R.Glynn © August 1999
Rowlf It was difficult to capture the character of Rowlf. I originally planned to create a more detailed and representation. complex model,The but phrase it just didn't In the end I true had more success with a fairly simple "lesswork. is more" is often with orgami models.
Rowlf
1
2
3
Make a small pinch only.
4
7
5
6
8
9
The next few steps show the circled area only.
Make a small valley crease just below where the diagonal creases meet.
10
11b
11
Mountain fold to round off the edges. Squash fold.
12
12b
13
The circled points are level with the bottom edge of the nose.
Valley fold a little further than half way (watch the circled points).
Unfold back to step 12.
Rowlf Characer © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn November 2002
Rowlf 14
15
16
Inside reverse folds. Swivel folds.
17
19
18
It will look like this Make 2 small swivel folds.
Squash folds.
20
21
22
Squash folds.
from the inside.
23
25
24
Make 'soft' petal folds to round the eyes.
Rowlf Characer © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn November 2002
Fozzie Bear Some of my designs only too a few minutes to create, but Fozzie took years! None of the head only models I tried looked anything like Fozzie. This model lurked in the doldrums for a long time. Without a Fozzie Bear though, it's not a Muppet collection. Eventually this model struggled into existance. I am still not entirely happy with it, the legs are far too small, but at least it's recognisable.
Fozzie Bear
1
2
3
Crease here only.
4
5
6
Unfold.
7
8
9
Fold on existing creases.
10
Squash fold.
12
11
Swivel fold.
Fozzie Bear character © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn December 2002
Fozzie Bear 15
14
13
Unfold back to step 10.
16
Double reverse folds, using existing creases.
17b
17
Repeat steps 10-15 on the other side.
Use the creases in step 11 to fold the edge down.
Swing the tall point up as far as it will go. Turn over.
18
19
20
21
20b
Inside reverse fold the inner layers
Swing the point back again, incorporating a preliminary fold.
Swing the point behind.
22
Turn over.
Fozzie Bear character © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn December 2002
Fozzie Bear 25
23 24
26
28
27
Rabbit ears.
29
30
30b
Crease the top layers only.
31
Swivel folds.
33
32
34
Swivel folds.
Fozzie Bear character © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn December 2002
Fozzie Bear
35
36
38
37
Tuck inside.
39
41
40
Round the ears
Squash folds to form the arms.
42
Swivel folds to form Fozzie's neck-tie.
43
44
Squash fold the feet.
Used curved mountain creases to shape Fozzie's mouth.
Fozzie Bear character © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn December 2002
Kermit the Frog This was my first origami Muppet model. It needs a bit of 'sculpting' to get the finished model looking right.
Kermit the Frog
1
6
2
3
4
5
7 8
9
10
11
Swivel a single layer down inside the model
12
13
14
15
Valley fold flap inside the model
Fold on crease made in step 8 to lock the hidden triangle
16
17
18
19
Rabbit ear - do not flatten the model
Kermit the Frog character © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn June 1999
Kermit the Frog
20
21
Valley fold the single layers
24
22
Squash the neck flat
25
Fold triangle to one side, do not make a sharp crease
26
Repeat steps 22-24 on the right side
28
23
29
27
Fold sides to form arms. Do not fold the upper layers.
30
31
Inside reverse fold
Pull out hidden paper
32
33
34
Valley fold a single layer to form the eyes. Do not flatten
Lift the head and shape the mouth
Kermit the Frog character © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn June 1999
Gonzo Another simple, but sculptural model. No Muppet collection could be without Gonzo the Great. It's foldable with any kind of paper, but is particularly well suited to wet folding.
Gonzo
1
2
3
6
7
5
4
Make sure the valley folds do not go all the way to the tip of the model.
8
9
10 11
` `
Outside reverse fold.
12
13
14 15
`
`
`
`
Crimp using the existing creases.
Unfold back to step 11.
Gonzo character © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn November 2002
Gonzo 18 17
16
19
` `
`
`
Unfold back to step 15.
Crimp.
20 21
Crease firmly. The model will be 3-dimensional from now on. The next view is from the direction of the shaded arrow.
Crimp both sides, but do not crease up to the middle. This gives Gonzo's snout a rounder shape.
Open, but do not flatten the back of the model. The next step shows the view from the shaded arrow.
22
Make another crimp. As before, do not crease up to the middle.
23
24
You can leave the snout as it is, but the next step helps to lock things into place. Completely unfold the snout area.
25
Just the snout is shown. Refold as double crimps.
26
Gently open out to make the eyes.
Gonzo character © Muppet Holding Company, origami model © Robin Glynn November 2002
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