Riga in Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Riga October - November 2010

“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Art Nouveau

Riga’s claim to fame

Dirty Politics

Elections, Latvian-style

Riga Shines

Unique autumn events

N°87 - 2Ls riga.inyourpocket.com

Contents



E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Foreword

4

Gossip and rants from the editor

Arriving in Riga

6

How to get to your hotel

The Basics

8

Getting to grips with Riga The Latvian language How to add an ‘s’ to names and places

10

History

12

Riga’s past on two pages

Culture & Events

14

Concerts, galleries and events

Where to stay

18 Beds for backpackers and business executives

Dining & Nightlife

24

From pork knuckle to sushi Nightlife Bars, pubs and clubs

42

Art nouveau architecture is one of Riga’s claims to fame, and rightly so. The ‘new style’ gained popularity at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries and over a third of all buildings in Riga are examples of this unique school of design. Read more about art nouveau in Riga on p. 57. Photo by M.Zaprauskis

Sightseeing

50

Museums, churches and the like Special events 54-56 Independence & Lāčplēsis days, Riga Shines

Art Nouveau

57

Riga’s claim to fame

Getting around

58

Planes, trains and automobiles

Mail & Phones

61

It’s good to talk

Directory Shopping Sports & Leisure Hockey: Dynamo Riga Health & Lifestyle Riga for kids Officials Old Riga walking tour

62 66 66 68 68 69 70

Maps & Index Not since the 1990s has an election caused such a stir and the next government could determine the course of Latvia for many years to come. Read about oligarchs, idiots, extremists and ministers with poor fashion sense on p.69. Photo of the Latvian parliament by M.Zaprauskis

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Old Riga map Riga city centre map Country map Index/Old Riga street register

71 72 74 75

October - November 2010



Foreword Just because locals are ready to sink into their traditional autumn depression, doesn’t mean you have to. On the other hand, Latvians might have something real to gripe about this time. Unemployment insurance is coming to an end for many of the tens of thousands of people without work in this country and the October 2 elections could well see the rise of minority Russian-speaking parties to prominence – a true nightmare for your average Jānis or Ieva. Worse still would be the return of ousted oligarchs to power. Two of the nation’s most prominent multi-millionaires suspected of all kinds of illegal activities from tax evasion to bribery and money laundering were both hoping to become prime minister this fall with promises of protection for the ‘little guy’ and other populist BS. For more about dirty politics see p.69. But local politicians shouldn’t influence your stay at all, so take advantage of all that Riga has to offer from authentic ethnic restaurants and charming neighbourhood bars to ritzy premieres at the Opera and rowdy hockey games at Arena Riga. International acts like Faithless and a-ha will also do their thing in the Latvian capital, while the city prepares to throw a huge light festival to coincide with Independence Day on 18 November. So admire some art nouveau (p.57), go to a concert or just relax with a drink at a local pub and soak up the atmosphere of this Baltic metropolis.

Europe In Your Pocket

Readers’ mail “I have just come back from another trip to your beautiful country. This time I found this excellent, handy and informative booklet “Riga in your pocket.” I had the time to read it through – and I was very pleased to do so... it made me laugh several times.” Karen Margrethe Trnka, Copenhagen, Denmark

Cover story This issue’s autumn cover photo was taken on the 11. novembra krastmala promenade near the 1905 Revolution monument. It’s a good place for a leisurely stroll or, as you can see in the picture, a bit of fishing. In the distance you can also see the Vanšu Bridge and the Swedbank skyscraper. Although not exactly a lover’s lane, it’s a romantic spot popular with Rigans of all ages.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Riga In Your Pocket Laipu 8 - 9a LV-1050 Riga Latvia tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80 fax (+371) 67 22 34 16 [email protected] riga.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/inyourpocket youtube.com/inyourpocket twitter.com/inyourpocket ISSN 1407-2335 ©SIA “Latvijas ceļveži” Printed by Microdot Published six times per year

Riga In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket is once again breaking new ground. Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides around, we have recently gone Swiss with a move into Switzerland. The first issue of Zurich In Your Pocket is now out, providing visitors to the Swiss commercial capital with all the usual essential information an In Your Pocket guide provides. We also recently took the wraps off Prizren In Your Pocket, a guide to the second largest city in Kosovo, produced in cooperation with Cultural Heritage Without Borders. You can download a free PDF copy of all our guides at our website, inyourpocket.com. To keep up with all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis Researchers Ģirts Upenieks and Mārtiņš Zaprauskis Layout & Design Mārtiņš Zaprauskis Photos Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, unless otherwise noted. Events and culture photos courtesy of various media groups and concert organisers. Sales & Circulation General Manager Ģirts Upenieks Sales & Circulation Manager Ģirts Upenieks [email protected] (+371) 67 22 05 80 Cover: Mārtiņš Zaprauskis ©SIA “Latvijas ceļveži”

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright SIA “Latvijas ceļveži” 1995-2010. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket: Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76.

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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arriving in riga By bus The first thing you’ll notice upon arrival at the bus terminal or autoosta (open 05:00 - 24:00) are the impressive hangars of the Central Market to your right just above the murky waters of the Riga canal. Inside, Eurolines and Ecolines offices are located to your left as well as an ATM, baggage room (0.40 - 1Ls for the first hour, 0.20Ls each additional hour) and toilets for 0.20Ls (ask for paper). To your right is the waiting room and internet area. A bar/cafeteria, a baby-changing station, a shower and even a small hostel are available upstairs. At the far end of the hall are a tourist and bus information centre (open 08:00 - 21:00), currency exchange (open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00) and pharmacy (open 07:00 - 20:00) or aptieka in Latvian. Outside along the canal is an e-talons office (open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00; closed Sun) as well as a ticket machine where you can buy public transport tickets. Getting to town: trams N°7 or 9 stop in front of the bus station; ride it one stop into the centre (buy a 0.70Ls ticket from the driver). To get there on foot, turn left, walk through the underpass and follow the signs ‘Vecrīga-Vaļņu iela’ into Old Riga. The cabs outside are notoriously dodgy. Q

Tourist information City of Riga Information Centre I-2,

Rātslaukums 6, tel. (+371) 67 03 79 00, fax (+371) 67 03 79 10, www.rigatourism. com. Offers a wide range of information in a variety of languages.Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Also on J-3, Prāgas 1 (Bus station), tel. (+371) 67 22 05 55. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun, Mon; D-4, Stacijas 2 (Train station), tel. (+371) 67 23 38 15. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun, Mon.

By car Latvia is part of the Schengen zone of European nations and no longer operates passport checkpoints on its land borders with Estonia and Lithuania. Just drive across the border. The Russian and Belarusian borders still require time and patience. Happy trails! Q

By ferry The ferry terminal and yacht harbour lie less than 1km north of Old Riga. A bank machine and café (09:00 - 18:30) are available as well as a Tallink ticket office and a souvenir/ alcohol shop. Getting to town: go right across the parking lot in the direction of the ugly grey skyscraper. Old Riga is just beyond it. Taxis are also available. If you’re travelling with Aveline from Lubeck you’ll arrive at the Vecmīlgrāvis terminal out of town. A cab is your only real option. Q

By plane The airport (lidosta) is some 13km southwest of the Riga city centre. Baggage claim and customs are fairly quick, but don’t forget to pick up a complimentary copy of Riga In Your Pocket while waiting for your luggage. A currency exchange booth is available here as well as a tourist information centre. Reserve a hotel room or rent a car in the arrivals hall. A 24hour baggage room (1Ls/day) and yet another information centre are also available here, as well as ATMs and a post office (open 08:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00). If you’ve departed from a non-Schengen country such as the UK or the US, you’ll arrive in a different terminal at the north end of the airport building. Car rental and currency exchange are available here, but you might want to leave the terminal, make a right and then enter the Schengen arrival hall because it offers more services. Getting to town: A queue of eager taxis will be waiting outside the arrivals hall. A typical ride to the city centre should cost no more than 10Ls. The Airport Express shuttle stops at five different hotels throughout the city for 3Ls every 30 minutes between 05:30 - 00:45. Bus N°22 (get off at 11.novembra krastmala or the Stockmann shopping centre) costs 0.70Ls (buy a ticket from the driver) and departs for the city centre roughly every 20 minutes, but be prepared to pay an extra 0.80Ls for large pieces of luggage. Exit the airport arrivals hall and walk across the parking lot to find the bus stop and schedule.Q

Riga In Your Pocket

National Opera fountain

M.Zaprauskis

By train The train station (centrālā stacija) underwent massive renovations and has been modernised with a spacious central hall and many shopping and eating options. International trains arrive at platform 2. Follow signs down to the Central Hall (Centrālā zāle), under which are renovated pay toilets (0.15Ls - ask for paper from the surly cashier) and a baggage room (0.50 - 1.50Ls/day), open 04:30 24:00. Exchange money at the currency exchanges (valūtas maiņas) in tunnels A and B, at the Parex bank to the right of the Central Hall when coming from the platforms, or at the Swedbank bank to the left. There are several bank machines in the terminal. Pay-as-you-go internet points/phones can be found by the toilets next to tunnel A and by the Narvesen in front of tunnel C. The train information office is open 08:00 - 20:00. Tourist information is available at the far west end of the station by the exit opposite Stockmann. Getting to town: you are right beside Old Riga. Turn left when leaving the station and head toward the spire of St. Peter’s Church, then walk through the underpass and follow the signs ‘13. janvāra iela’ and turn right onto Aspazijas bulvāris. Q

Riga Card Tourists looking for a good deal can purchase the Riga Card, which provides free use of trams, buses and trolleybuses, free admission or discounts at museums, specials on car rental, discounts at restaurants, souvenir shops and much more. The Riga Card also comes with a free copy of Riga In Your Pocket and is available at major hotels, tourist info centres, travel agencies and the airport. Prices: 10Ls/24hrs, 14Ls/48hrs, 18Ls/72hrs. Children under 16 half price. RC establishments in this guide are given the following symbol: RC Riga Card Office Tel./fax (+371) 67 21 72 17, [email protected], www.rigacard.lv. Q

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Basics Alcohol For a while Latvia had the dubious honour of holding the record for the world’s drunkest person. A few years ago an unnamed vagrant was found unconscious by police and rushed to hospital where his blood test revealed an astounding 7.22 parts per mille of alcohol. Before this man was saved by law enforcement, the medical community had agreed that four parts per mille was a lethal dose for most humans. Although we don’t suggest you attempt to break any records, we do hope you enjoy a local drink in moderation while in Riga. Užavas, Bauskas, Tērvetes and Valmiermuižas are among the nation’s best beers and the infamous Riga Black Balsam is a potent liquor that Latvians enjoy inflicting on tourists. Although bars are open at all hours, alcoholic beverages are only sold in shops from 08:00 - 22:00. Q

Communism Although Latvia was once an involuntary Soviet republic, visitors should not come to Riga with high hopes of seeing grand statues of Lenin, Stalin and other objects from that bygone era. Most of these monuments, which are viewed as symbols of oppression by Latvians, have been removed including the Lenin statue facing east on Brīvības bulvāris which was levelled in August 1991. A red granite monument, once dedicated to the Latvian riflemen who protected Lenin after the Revolution of 1917, still exists on Strēlnieku laukums, but now honours all of the riflemen - Whites and Reds. Another monument, dedicated to the Soviet ‘liberation’ of Riga, is located on the other side of the Daugava and is still used as a rallying point for red flag wavers. The wrought iron railing of the D-2, AB dambis also includes several large hammers and sickles. Q

Embassy warning The American Embassy in Latvia has warned US citizens to avoid the following establishments in Riga: Angels – Elizabetes 22. Babylon – Kaļķu 24 (formerly Roxy Club). Līvu krodziņš – Kaļķu 22. Located next door to Babylon (formerly Royal Pub, Lord Pub and Groks Pub). Red Lion Pub – Laipu 7. Infinity Bārs– Vāgnera 8 A13 (formerly Mary) – Audēju 13. Enigma – Kaļķu 22. Located next door to Royal (formerly Puzzle and Pink Panther). Kapsula – (formerly Zephyr Bar located on Audēju iela. Blow Style (formerly Monroe’s nightclub) – Skārņu 7. “The American Embassy continues to be concerned about the number of reported instances of crimes perpetrated against foreign clientele at local bars, clubs and lounges in Riga. There have been a number of additional reports recently of foreign tourists being charged extortionate prices for drinks in bars. Some have then been assaulted, threatened or forced to withdraw money from an ATM to pay for the bill.” For more information visit: http://riga.usembassy.gov/warden0811.html.

Local time Latvia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (EET): GMT +2 hours. However, during the summer months (April - October) Latvia is in the Eastern European Summer Time Zone (EEST): GMT +3. Correct time: tel. (+371) 82 154 (in Latvian and Russian). Q

Electricity

Money

The electrical current is 220V AC, 50Hz. European plugs are a must. Q

The national currency is the lat (Ls). There are 100 santīmi to the lat, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 santīmi and 1 and 2 lat coins. Bank notes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 500 lats. The lat has become one of the strongest monetary units in Europe. As we go to press, one euro sells for 0.70Ls and one US dollar for 0.54Ls. Although Latvia was originally scheduled to adopt the Euro in 2008, experts believe that the Eurozone may prove elusive until at least 2014. There are currency exchange booths everywhere accepting a wide range of foreign bank notes, but always check rates before exchanging money. Major hotels, restaurants and shops accept Visa, MasterCard and sometimes even AmEx. In this guide we have marked establishments that take credit cards. There are numerous ATMs around town as well. Travellers’ cheques can be cashed at many banks and at Latvia Tours on H-2, Kaļķu iela.Q

Health & Safety It’s no longer a state secret how much Eastern Europe’s pristine environment has been polluted over the past half century as a result of negligent Soviet industrialisation policies. Latvia is by no means an exception. However, this devastating blow to the country’s rivers, streams, and coastlines had a silver lining. Grassroots organisations, such as the Environmental Protection Club (VAK), protested against these policies in the 1980s and put the first dent in the Soviet wall of oppression. Most of the polluted areas of Latvia have been effectively cleaned up and are now safe for the public to enjoy. Unfortunately, air quality in Riga is still not the best. Although the World Health Organisation once listed Latvia and Estonia as hot zones for drug-resistant strains of tuberculosis, the situation has greatly improved over the past 10 years. Unfortunately, cases of tick-borne encephalitis are still common in the countryside. We advise vaccination against this disease if you plan on spending much time in Latvia’s forests. Another caution: although tap water can be used for brushing your teeth, bottled water is recommended for everyday consumption. Sadly, racially motivated attacks by Russian-speaking skinheads on both men and women, especially in Old Riga and the tunnels by the bus and train stations, are not unheard of in Riga. Those who enjoy a good pint and who frequent pubs and clubs should always be on the lookout for any suspicious characters, especially young girls on Līvu laukums who are eager to invite you to a local bar for a drink. See Scams on p.10. Q

Riga In Your Pocket

Market values McDonald’s Big Mac 1.60Ls $2.96 €2.29 Loaf of white bread 0.35Ls $0.65 €0.50 Snickers bar 0.28Ls $0.52 €0.40 0.7L of vodka 5.00Ls $9.26 €7.14 0.5L bottle of local beer 0.55Ls $1.02 €0.79 20 Marlboros 1.89Ls $3.50 €2.70 Public transport ticket 0.50Ls $0.93 €0.71 Cinema ticket 3.50Ls $6.48 €5.00 1l of petrol 0.78Ls $1.44 €1.11 Exchange rates (as of 22.09.2010) US$1 - 0.54Ls €1 - 0.70Ls £1 - 0.84Ls ¥100 - 0.63Ls

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Basics

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Phone numbers The brass at In Your Pocket have decided that all guides in its European publishing empire have to list country codes before all telephone numbers, so we have happily complied with this directive. Latvia’s country code is (+371), but, of course, you only have to use it if you’re dialling from abroad. If you’re already in Latvia and want to call one of the numbers in this guide then just ignore the (+371) prefix and dial the eight-digit number. For more information see Mail & Phones.

Religion Latvians were among the last European peoples to accept Christianity. Independent Latvian tribes still worshiped the sun, wind, holy groves, rocks and the like until Teutonic zealots arrived at the close of the 12th century to save the Balts from damnation. Depending on your point of view, the German invaders were either brave holy warriors or murderous, thieving savages. In any event, it took centuries to convert the Latvians to Christianity and even that’s still up for debate. In the beginning they were forced to have baptisms, but then, logical bunch that they were, they would just take a swim in the Daugava and, in their eyes, wash off the new religion returning to the gods and goddesses of their ancestors. To this day, the pagan Midsummer’s Eve celebration of Līgo and Jāņi, an ancient fertility festival, is still the nation’s most popular holiday. Martin Luther’s teachings have played a profound role in the development of Latvia and many practicing Latvian Christians belong to Lutheran congregations. Latvia’s Russian-speaking minorities are largely Orthodox Christians while Catholicism is more popular in the Latgale region of eastern Latvia. Jews were massacred in their thousands in Latvia during the Holocaust, but a small Jewish community still survives in Riga. Q

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Say nē to drugs Despite what you may have heard, drugs, without exception, are illegal in Latvia. If someone offers you any type of drug, whether it’s weed, ecstasy or coke, you aren’t allowed to buy it and you’re definitely not permitted to carry it, even in small amounts for personal use. If you buy pot off of a stranger in Riga there’s a good chance you’ll get a bag of oregano or locally grown hemp that has a THC level barely above zero which would give you about the same buzz as you’d get from smoking dried parsley. You can purchase hemp butter at the Central Market legally, but it’s just something to spread on toast and definitely won’t get you high. If you’re looking to get inebriated, stick to Latvian beer and spirits.

Train bridge over the Daugava

M.Zaprauskis

October - November 2010



10

Basics Roads

Scams

Latvia has some of the world’s worst drivers. It’s not that they can’t steer or press the break pedal, although for some reason Latvians can’t master the art parallel parking, it’s more likely a reckless streak that allows grown men and women to act like children behind the wheel. Passing on blind curves is shockingly common, red lights are ignored by most BMWs and pedestrians on crosswalks tend to become targets for wannabe F1 drivers in tricked out Mercedes jeeps. If, like many locals, you enjoy operating an automobile while intoxicated, you should bear in mind that all perpetrators, including foreigners, face a mandatory ten-day jail sentence and a 500Ls fine. The speed limit is 50km/h in towns, 90km/ h on the open road and it is strictly enforced. Speed traps are prevalent and bribes are almost a thing of the past. Parking meters are all over Riga. Traffic police will clamp your car and demand a 5Ls fine on the spot for running out of time, or will fine you 10Ls for being parked illegally. Old Riga is now accessible to nearly all motor vehicles, but the authorities have made it impossible to drive from one end to the other having divided the town into four different sections. Many streets have been changed to one-way streets and certain areas, such as Doma and Līvu squares, have become pedestrian and bicycles zones. Naturally, the city has lost loads of revenue by opening up the old city, but now charges equally exorbitant parking fees that can only be paid with an SMS text message sent from a Latvian mobile phone number. In other words, most tourists are prohibited from parking their rented or borrowed cars in Old Riga. The city has once again illustrated how touristfriendly and forward-thinking it can be. The Soviets had a good expression to sum up this latest debacle: we wanted something better, but it turned out like it always does. Q

The growth of the local tourism industry has created countless new jobs for Latvians, but it has also spawned another lucrative trade, which seems to be inevitable in Eastern Europe – scams and rip-offs. While most bars and restaurants are happy to welcome tourists into their establishments, there are some rotten apples that will do anything to take your money. Strip clubs, nightclubs and late night bars seem to be the biggest culprits often taking advantage of already inebriated patrons. Be wary of young attractive girls on Līvu Square asking you to join them for a drink in a nearby bar. You’ll be shocked to discover later that the barely palatable bottle of wine you bought them costs 500Ls or more. If you refuse the bouncers will pummel you until you give them your PIN code. Other scams include taking your credit card information and buying stuff online or charging your card for much more than you purchased. Avoid seedy bars and try to always pay in cash at nightclubs, even if they seem reputable. Here’s a prime example of a scam sent to us by Sid from Scotland: “I have spotted scams by several locals one night...there was a girl acting drunk and she had a thing going with the barman - a proper shifty looking local and it went like this... She flirted with customers until they bought her a drink then when they paid using a card she actually came across to the bar to get the pin number and the barman would record the card details for cloning. It was strange that I spotted them talking outside about this and she was uber sober then she came back in acting drunk again. My card company rang me a few days later saying that I should cancel my card etc and as I took a picture of her I forwarded it on to them explaining the scam to them.”

Learning the language Latvian is an Indo-European language (not Slavic) as old as Lithuanian. It has six declensions and a lot of funny accents. Although the official language is Latvian, you will easily get around with a command of Russian, as half of the population of Riga is Russian-speaking, and most Latvians do understand Russian. They will, however, avoid it, except to swear, because Russians have more colourful curses than Latvians. Latvians also reshape foreign names to fit their language and add an ‘s’ to the end of all male names, i.e. Baraks Obama and Deivids Kemerons. Females will get an ‘a’ or an ‘e’ on the end, as with pop star, Britnija Spīrsa. But our favourite is still Sids Višess. Hilarious! Useful phrases How are you? Kā jums klājas? Pleased to meet you. Prieks iepazīties. Do you speak English? Vai jūs runājiet angliski? Where is the nearest shop, hotel, restaurant, café, bar, toilet? Kur atrodas tuvākais veikals, viesnīca, restorāns, kafejnīca, bārs, tualete? What’s your name? Kā Jūs/tevi sauc? My name is ... Mani sauc ... What time is it? Cik ir pulkstenis? How much does this cost? Cik tas maksā? This costs too much! Tas ir par dārgu! Hello Labdien! Hi Sveiks! Good morning Labrīt! Good evening Labvakar! Goodnight Arlabunakti!

Riga In Your Pocket

Goodbye! Uz redzēšanos! Bye! Čau! Atā! Yes Jā No Nē Maybe Varbūt Cheers! Priekā! All the best! Visu labu! Thank you Paldies

Days of the week Monday pirmdiena Tuesday otrdiena Wednesday trešdiena Thursday ceturtdiena Friday piektdiena Saturday sestdiena Sunday svētdiena

Numbers 1 viens 2 divi 3 trīs 4 četri 5 pieci 6 seši 7 septiņi 8 astoņi 9 deviņi 10 desmit 11 vienpadsmit 20 divdesmit 21 divdesmit viens 50 piecdesmit 100 simts 1000 tūkstotis

Street smarts Street iela Road ceļš Highway šoseja Boulevard bulvāris Square laukums Market tirgus Airport lidosta Bus station autoosta Train station stacija Taxi taksis Directions Left Right Straight Back

pa kreisi pa labi taisni atpakaļ

Beware the following Latvian phrases Nopirksi man dzērienu? Buy me a drink? Negribi lāpīties? Hair of the dog? Aizdosi man 7,5 miljardus eiro? Loan me 7.5billion euro?

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Basics

Smoking Latvians love to smoke and until recently you could see them lighting up almost anywhere, from barstools in local pubs to hospital beds. But all that has changed. As of July 1, 2006, smoking is banned in most public places including restaurants, clubs and government buildings. The few establishments which have built completely separate smoking sections with proper ventilation systems have been assigned a smoking symbol X. Ironically, the government has largely ignored the root causes of smoking, but new taxes on cigarettes has brought the price of a pack of Marlboros up to a little over €2.50. Q

National holidays Nearly 800 years of foreign occupation haven’t given Latvians much cause to celebrate, hence an acute lack of days off for the working man. Pagan Midsummer celebrations are the nation’s most popular holidays when locals head out to the countryside for bonfires, beer and assorted fertility rites. January 1 New Year’s Day (Jaungads) April 22, 2011 Good Friday (Lielā piektdiena) April 24, 2011 Easter Sunday (Lieldienas) April 25, 2011 Easter Monday (Otrās Lieldienas) May 1 Labour Day (Strādnieku diena) May 4 Independence day in 1990 June 23 - 24 Midsummer celebrations (Līgo & Jāņi) November 18 Independence day in 1918 Dec 24 - 26 Christmas (Ziemassvētki) Dec 31 New Year’s Eve (Vecgada vakars)

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Facts & Figures Population: 2.26 million (in 2008). Ethnicity: 59% Latvian, 28% Russian, 13% other. Total territory: 64,589km2. Longest rivers: Gauja (452km), Daugava (352km in Latvia). Highest point: Gaiziņkalns (311.6m). Length of Latvian coastline: 494km.

Toilets Our suggestion to improve public toilets as a condition for EU acceptance has fallen on deaf ears. Restaurants are still your best bet and most places won’t hassle you for not being a customer. Men’s facilities are designated with either a V for vīrieši or a triangle pointing down; women’s restrooms with an S for sievietes or a triangle pointing up. Q

Visas Citizens from Andorra, Argentina, Australia, Bolivia, Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, El Salvador, EU countries, Guatemala, Honduras, Hong Kong, Iceland, Israel, Japan, Liechtenstein, Macao, Malaysia, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, San Marino, Singapore, South Korea, Switzerland, Uruguay, USA, Vatican City and Venezuela do not require a visa to enter Latvia and may stay up to 90 days within a period of six months to one year depending on nationality. For assistance obtaining residency permits contact the Citizenship and Migration Board, Čiekurkalna 1. līnija 1, k-3, tel. (+371) 67 21 96 64, www.pmlp.gov.lv/en. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Q

October - November 2010

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history In 2,500BC Indo-European tribes arrive on the Baltic Sea. In Latvia the inhabitants split into several tribes: Zemgaļi, Sēļi, Latgaļi and Kurši. Among surviving tongues, Latvian and Lithuanian are the closest to the original tribal languages. The Livonians, a Finno-Ugric group, are equally ancient settlers. 12th - 15th Century In the 1100s, German traders search for a trade route with the East. They choose Riga for its strategic location at the outlet of the Daugava and prepare to conquer with both Bible and sword. Pitched battles near Riga ensue between the invaders and Livonian settlers. A holy war against the Baltic heathens is launched. Riga is founded in 1201, when Bishop Albert builds a castle on the site. In 1202, the military Order of the Brothers of the Sword is founded, and over the coming decades they crush and convert the warlike, but fatally divided, Latvian and Livonian tribes. The foundations of the Dome cathedral are laid in 1211. The last stand of the Latvian tribes is crushed in 1290. Over the next 200 years, rivalry and warfare rage between the Church, the Teutonic Order, and Riga in a fight for trade and territory. The Order gains the upper hand. 16th Century German preachers bring the reformation to Latvia in 1522. Social unrest breaks out in 1524, churches are vandalised and monks are exiled from Riga. 17th Century In the Polish-Swedish war (1600 - 1629), Sweden wins northern Latvia, while the provinces of Kurzeme and Zemgale are united into a duchy loyal to the Polish-Lithuanian empire. Trade is expanded to all corners of the world: Latvian pines become masts for English warships. The duchy gains the island of Tobago, later exchanged for Gambia. During Swedish occupation schools are opened, oppression of the peasants lessened and the Bible is translated into Latvian. 18th Century From 1700 until 1721 Sweden and Russia fight for control of Livonia. At first the Swedes find success, but their armies are defeated in Moscow. The Russians occupy Latgale in 1795, and control the entire country until WWI. The wars devastate Latvia. After the Russians capture Riga in 1710, 90,000 people are left in all of Livonia. 19th Century Poverty leads to a peasant rebellion in 1802, which is brutally crushed. Another revolt, meeting a similar fate, occurs in 1840. Serfdom is abolished in Latvia between 1817 and 1819, but while Latvians are free to go where they wish, the land remains in the hands of its previous owners. In the second half of the century, a group of Latvian students in St. Petersburg, the Jaunlatvieši (Young Latvians), forge a rebellion. Their St. Petersburg Paper, published 1862 - 1865, raises Latvian national consciousness. One of the most significant events of this rise of national consciousness is the first all-Latvian song festival held in Riga in 1873. Commerce and industry develop rapidly in Riga, making it the third most vital industrial city in Tsarist Russia. 20th Century This mixture of national feelings, with the demands of the new industrial proletariat, make Latvia a hot spot in the 1905 revolution. In January 24, 1905, a general strike is called and 50,000 workers protest in the streets. Eighty people are killed in clashes with Tsarist troops.

Riga In Your Pocket

On October 30, 1905, the Tsar allows free speech and the formation of a Constituent Assembly. Two months later Russian ‘punishment brigades’ execute almost 2,000 Latvians. Many prominent citizens are forced into exile, including the national poet Janis Rainis. During WWI, Latvian soldiers under the Russian army fight the Germans. By 1915 the Germans occupy half of Latvia, forcing hundreds of thousands of people to flee. In June, the Russians allow independent Latvian units to defen d the country, and eight battalions are raised for battle. The weakened Russian army fails to oppose a major German offensive and Riga is taken September 3, 1917. At the BrestLitovsk peace treaty of March 1918, the Bolsheviks give the enemy the rest of Latvia. The Latvian Riflemen withdraw to Russia where they become Lenin’s most trustworthy soldiers during the Civil War. From 1917 Latvian nationalists secretly plot against the Germans. When Germany surrenders on November 11, they declare Latvia’s independence at the National Theatre on November 18, 1918. Two years of war follow. The First Republic The Latvian army pushes back first renegade German forces, then Russian troops, who for a while declare the country a Soviet Republic. Under the Treaty of Riga, Russia vows to respect Latvia’s independence, which is also recognised by the international community on January 26, 1921. One third of Latvia’s population is displaced by the war and much of its industry shipped to Russia. Still, the country grows rapidly: land is redistributed to the peasants, and soon Latvia has one of the highest living standards in Europe. President Kārlis Ulmanis stages a bloodless coup in May 1934 and effectively becomes a dictator for six years.

WWII... The secret protocol of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact marks the twilight of independence, as Germany and the USSR divide Eastern Europe. Latvia falls to the latter, and troops invade on June 17, 1940. The Soviets hold sham elections to legitimise the takeover. On the night of June 13 - 14, 1941, they force tens of thousands into cattle wagons and deport them to Siberia. The Germans take Riga when invading the USSR in early July 1941. They are welcomed by many as ‘liberators’, but German rule does not bring independence. The Nazis murder 90% of Latvia’s Jewish population in their three years of occupation. From 1943 Latvian youths are conscripted into the German army. The Red Army retakes most of Latvia in July and September 1944. Thousands of Latvians flee. The reinstated communist regime forces general collectivisation along with a massive wave of deportations. On March 25, 1949, 42,000 people are deported to Siberia. Resistance to the Soviet regime continues in the forests until 1956.

riga.inyourpocket.com

history ...and the aftermath The Stalinist regime begins a russification campaign in Latvia. Russian workers are brought in to man the factories and are given housing preference. Latvians almost become a minority and some cultural expressions are banned. Before the war Latvians comprised 75% of the population, but by 1989 their share dwindled to 51.8%. Today the decline has been slightly reversed and Latvians account for 57.1% of the population. The Singing Revolution & Beyond 1986 Protests by green groups stop the development of a hydroelectric dam on the Daugava and an environmentally disastrous plan for a Riga metro. 1987 June 14 - First protests since the war take place at the Freedom Monument, commemorating the 1941 deportations to Siberia. 1988 November 11 - The Latvian pre-war flag is raised on the Riga Castle. 1989 August 23 - Some two million Latvians, Lithuanians and Estonians join hands in a human chain stretching from Tallinn to Vilnius in the 650km-long Baltic Way, which protests the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. 1990 May 4 - The Supreme Council adopts a declaration restoring independence with a transitional period. 1991 January 13 - After a bloody assault on the TV tower in Vilnius, Lithuania, barricades are erected to protect the parliament. January 20 - Special Soviet troops attack the Interior Ministry building in Riga, killing five people and injuring 10 others. March 3 - 73.7% vote in favour of independence. August 19 - 20 - Soviet troops block roads leading to Riga and seize the Interior Ministry building. August 21 - The Moscow coup collapses and the Latvian parliament votes to restore independence. August 23 - The local Communist Party is banned. September 6 - The USSR recognises Latvia’s independence. 1993 June 6 - 7 - First free elections. The Saeima (parliament) elects Guntis Ulmanis as president. 1994 August 31 - The last Soviet troops pull out of Latvia and Estonia. Some 500 officers stay to operate the Skrunda early warning radar station until 1998. 1995 May 4 - The Skrunda radar station is dynamited to celebrate the fifth anniversary of the restoration of independence. 1996 June 18 - President Guntis Ulmanis is re-elected. 1998 August 31 - The last Russian military outpost in the Baltic countries, Skrunda, is officially shut down. October 3 - The People’s Party and Latvia’s Way gain the most seats in the Saeima. A referendum is held granting citizenship to children born in Latvia to non-citizens after 1991. 1999 March 25 - A trail of flowers over 300m long is laid at the Freedom Monument in honour of those Latvians deported to Siberia in 1949. June 17 - The Saeima elects Latvia’s first female president, Vaira Vīķe-Freiberga, a Canadian-Latvian. December 10 - Latvia is invited to begin talks with the EU. 2001 August 17 - 19 - Riga celebrates its 800th anniversary.

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2002 November 21 - Latvia is invited to join the NATO. December 13 - Latvia is invited to join the European Union. 2003 May 24 - Riga hosts the 2003 Eurovision Song Contest. June 20 - Vaira Vīķe-Freiberga is re-elected as president. September 20 - In a national referendum, 67% of Latvians vote in favour of joing the European Union. 2004 March 9 - Relative outsider Indulis Emsis becomes Europe’s first Green prime minister. March 29 - Latvia officially joins the NATO military alliance. May 1 - Latvia joins the European Union. 2005 January 8 - 9 - The most devastating storm to hit Latvia in 40 years rips through the Baltic Sea flooding coastal cities. 2006 October 7 - The Peoples’ Party led by Aigars Kalvītis gain the most seats in parliamentary elections. 2007 July 8 - Parliament elects a controversial figure, former surgeon Valdis Zatlers, as president of Latvia. September 21 - Parliament speaker Indulis Emsis resigns amid allegations of corruption. October - November - More politicians are embroiled in scandal. Citizens in their thousands meet on Dome Square to voice their concern. The prime minister resigns. 2008 November 8 - The Latvian government makes its first bank bail-out by taking a 51% stake in beleaguered Parex Bank. December 19 - The IMF and EU agree to give Latvia a €7.5billion loan with several strings attached. 2009 January 13 - After a peaceful anti-government demonstration, hooligans cause mayhem in Old Riga vandalising shops and attacking riot police with stones. February 20 - Prime Minister Ivars Godmanis resigns. March 12 - Valdis Dombrovskis of the opposition New Era party becomes prime minister and appoints a new cabinet. December 1 - The Latvian Parliament approves an austerity budget for 2010 raising taxes and slashing public services. 2010 Februar y 14 - A cyber militia calling itself the Four th Awakening’s People’s Army found a hole in the State Revenue Service’s online tax registry and downloaded 7.4 million documents for government and private sector employees all over Latvia. The leader who called himself Neo was later apprehended after he had published the exorbitant salaries received by political favourites who had been installed in government firms. June 15 - KNAB, the independent anti-corruption agency, raids the government-owned electricity monopoly Latvenergo seizing documents and arresting some of its most prominent officers on corruption and money laundering charges.

Both photos are scenes from Raiskums, Vidzeme

MZ

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Culture & Events Cinemas Forum Cinemas I-3, 13. janvāra 8, www.forumcinemas. lv. Forum Cinemas is the second largest cinema complex in Northern Europe. Q (2.30 - 5Ls). A K. Suns C-4, Elizabetes 83/85, tel. (+371) 67 28 54 11. K.Suns is dedicated to arty European films. Q (3Ls). Rīga C-4, Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 18 11 44, www. kino.riga.lv. Its ornate old world interior makes for an interesting movie venue. It shows films from around the globe as well as box office hits. Q (2.50 - 3Ls). RC

Concert halls Arena Riga A-4, Skanstes 21, tel. (+371) 67 38 82 00,

www.arenariga.com. A venue for both sporting events like the Continental Hockey League and large concerts. Performers have included Placebo, Muse and the Sex Pistols. Great Guild (Lielā Ģilde) H-2, Amatu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 48 50, www.lnso.lv. Home of the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra. Riga Cathedral (Doma baznīca) H-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv. The destination for world-class organ concerts. Riga Congress Centre (Rīgas Kongresu nams) F-2, Valdemāra 5, tel. (+371) 67 04 36 78, www.kongresunams.riga.lv. A large venue for dance concerts, musicals, plays and of course conferences. Small Guild (Mazā Ģilde) H-2, Amatu 3/5, tel. (+371) 67 22 37 72, www.gilde.lv/maza. Popular venue for small concerts and events. Spīķeri D/E-4, Maskavas 4, korp. 2/3, tel. (+371) 67 21 50 18, www.sinfoniettariga.lv. The national chamber orchestra Sinfonietta Riga performs at this chic renovated warehouse behind the Central Market.

Venues AR - Arena Riga BBC - Bites Blues Club CBK - Četri balti krekli DDC - Dirty Deal Cafe DP - Depo EM - Ethnographic Museum GG - Great Guild MP - Melnā Piektdiena OP - Opera OPN - Opera New Hall RAS - Riga Art Space RC - Riga Cathedral RCC - Riga Congress Centre SG - Small Guild SJ - St. John’s Church (I-2, Skārņu 24) SK - Spīķeri Concert Hall SP - St. Peter’s Church (I-2, Skārņu 19)

Iconic UK dance act Faithless will perform at Arena Riga on October 18 at 21:00

Riga In Your Pocket

Opera & Ballet Oct Date Time Event Venue 1 19:00 Il Trittico: Il Tabarro, Suor OP Angelica, Gianni Schicchi, opera, Puccini 4 19:00 Georges Momboye dance droup OP Boyakodah (France) 6 19:00 Swan Lake, ballet, Tchaikovsky OP 7 19:00 Aida, opera, Verdi OP 8 19:00 Sleeping Beauty, ballet, OP Tchaikovsky 9 19:00 Elixir of Love, opera, Donizetti OP 10 19:00 Concert in honour of Jānis OP Mediņš’ 120th birthday 14 19:00 Don Quixote, ballet, Minkus OP 15 19:00 La Traviata, opera, Verdi OP 16 19:00 Carmen, opera, Bizet OP 22 19:00 Premiere: A Midsummer Night’s OP Dream, ballet, Mendelssohn 23 19:00 A Midsummer Night’s Dream, OP ballet, Mendelssohn 24 12:00 A Birds’ Opera, children’s opera, OP Lūsēns 24 18:00 A Birds’ Opera, children’s opera, OP Lūsēns 27 19:00 The Bright Stream, ballet, OP Shostakovich 29 19:00 Anna Karenina, ballet, OP Tchaikovsky 30 12:00 The Tale of Tobias the Bear and OPN the Stolen Notes 30 15:00 The Tale of Tobias the Bear and OPN the Stolen Notes 30 19:00 The Fountain of Bakhchisaray, OP ballet, Asafiev 31 15:00 Aida, opera, Verdi OP Nov 3 4 6 7

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Der Sandmann, ballet, Schumann Don Giovanni, opera, Mozart Werther, opera, Massenet Sleeping Beauty, ballet, Tchaikovsky La Traviata, opera, Verdi A Midsummer Night’s Dream, ballet, Mendelssohn Carmen, opera, Bizet Chamber music concert Il Trittico: Il Tabarro, Suor Angelica, Gianni Schicchi, opera, Puccini The Nutcracker, ballet, Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker, ballet, Tchaikovsky Le Corsaire, ballet, Adam Elixir of Love, opera, Donizetti The Tale of the Dollmaker, children’s opera The Tale of the Dollmaker, children’s opera Nabucco, opera, Verdi The Nutcracker, ballet, Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker, ballet, Tchaikovsky Aplam, two acts accompanied by music by Dzelzs Vilks

OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OPN OPN OP OP OP OPN

riga.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Clubs & Other venues Bites Blūzs Klubs B-4, Dzirnavu 34a, tel. (+371) 67 33

Listen to the jazzy, downtempo melodies of the loungestyle act De-Phazz at Sapņu Fabrika on November 17

Rock, folk, festivals & More Oct Date Time Event Venue 1 22:00 dEScADOS (Hungary): grunge DP music concert 2 17:00 Big Folk Concert feat. Ieva SK Akuratere and many others 5 19:00 Blues Evening feat. Mirta & Hot CBK Acoustic, D11 Blues Band, Dogs & Catfish, Mitrokhin's Master Band and others 7 22:00 More I Korabli (Russia): hard DP rock/funk concert 8 22:00 Jimmie Lawson with the Latvian BBC Blues Band 9 22:00 Jimmie Lawson with the Latvian BBC Blues Band 15 20:00 Go Back Home (Italy): hardcore DDC 15 20:00 Sadist (Italy), Crionics (Poland) MP and Virgin Snatch (Poland): metal 15 20:30 Gustavo (Latvia): hip hop concert AR 18 21:00 Faithless (UK): electronic, dance AR concert 19 19:30 DDT (Russia): rock concert AR 20 19:30 The Glenn Miller Orchestra AR 23 18:00 City Jazz Big Band (Latvia) and RAS Jānis Stībelis: jazz concert 23 19:00 Moto Freestyle FMX GP World AR Championship stage 23 The Burning Hell (Canada): folk, DDC indie, rock concert 27 19:00 Mats Holmquist (Sweden), Stora RAS Stygga: jazz concert Nov 1 20:00 a-ha (Norway): pop concert AR 2 20:00 Sabaton (Sweden) and Alestorm MP (Scotland): metal concert 7 Martin's Day folk traditions, EM singing and dancing 7 19:00 Francis Goya (Belgium): guitar RCC music concert 15 19:00 Magnus Lindgren (Sweden) & RAS Batucada Jazz: jazz concert 17 20:00 De-Phazz (USA/Germany): jazz, SF downtempo concert 18 Latvian Independence Day celebrations throughout Riga 18-21 Riga Shines light festival in Old Riga and the city centre 25 19:30 Mireille Mathieu (France) AR 30 19:00 Take 6 (USA): a capella music RCC concert

riga.inyourpocket.com

31 23, www.bluesclub.lv. The best place to go for blues concerts with a wide variety of performers from as far away as Memphis, Chicago and New Orleans. Četri Balti Krekli I-3, Vecpilsētas 12, tel. (+371) 67 21 38 85, www.krekli.lv. This club is home to 100% Latvian acts like Ainars Mielavs, Pērkons and Autobuss debesīs. Dirty Deal Cafe E-4, Maskavas 12, k.2, tel. (+371) 29 55 84 75, www.dirtydeal.lv. Sporadic funky entertainment from transvestite harpsichord players to hardcore bands in an old Central Market warehouse. Melnā piektdiena (Black Friday) Brīvības 193c, tel. (+371) 29 87 94 75, www.melnapiektdiena.lv. The only club in Riga dedicated to heavy metal music is located within the brick walls of an old factory next to the VEF Bridge. Live acts have included such heavyweights as Napalm Death. Take tram N°6 from Barona to the VEF stop. Riga Circus (Rīgas cirks) C-4, Merķeļa 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 34 79, www.cirks.lv. The only permanent circus in the Baltics offers a show that includes clowns, jugglers, magicians, illusionists, acrobats and animal acts. See website for a complete schedule. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00. Sapņu Fabrika D-5, Lāčplēša 101, tel. (+371) 67 28 12 22, www.sapnufabrika.lv. Industrial-style venue for anything from rock to rap concerts. Headliners have included The White Stripes, Morrissey and Air. Skonto Stadium (Skonto stadions) B-4, Melngaiļa 1a, www.skontofc.lv. A venue for local and national football team matches as well as large concerts. Aerosmith, Metallica and Depeche Mode have all played here.

Opera & Theatres Daile Theatre (Dailes teātris) B-4, Brīvības 75, tel.

(+371) 67 29 44 44, www.dailesteatris.lv. Classic theatre like Faust in Latvian.

Latvian National Theatre (Latvijas Nacionālais teātris) G-1, Kronvalda bulv. 2, tel. (+371) 67 00 63 00, www.teatris.lv. A beautiful building that is home to performances of traditional plays and musicals. New Riga Theatre (Jaunais Rīgas teātris) C-5, Lāčplēša 25, tel. (+371) 67 28 07 65, www.jrt.lv. Local theatre performances with an avant-garde flavour. Opera H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3, tel. (+371) 67 07 37 77, www.opera.lv. A magnificent venue for opera, ballet and international performing artists.

The legendary Norwegian pop group a-ha will perform a farewell concert at Arena Riga on November 1 at 20:00

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Culture & Events Classical music Oct Date Time Event 1 19:00 Organ music concert. Jolanta Barinska (organ), mixed choir AURA of the Physics and Mathematics faculty of the University of Latvia. Programme: J. Arcadelt, F. Schubert, R. Schumann, E. Grieg, C. Franck, R. Tvardovsky, J. Lūsēns 1 19:30 Autumn Chamber Music Festival. Giya Kanchelli - 75. Massimo Mercelli (alto flute), Pavel Vernikov (violin), Sinfonietta Rīga. Programme: Giya Kanchelli 2 19:30 Autumn Chamber Music Festival Pēteris Vasks’ Flute Concerto. Michael Faust (flute), Liepāja Symphony Orchestra. Programme: Ludwig van Beethoven, Ēriks Ešenvalds, Pēteris Vasks 8 19:00 Organ music concert. Jan Katchcke (Germany) 8 19:30 Brahms. Pop Art. Modernism. Ilona Meija (flute), Mareks Pinta (clarinet), Agnese KanniņaLiepiņa and Marta Jagmane (violin), Jānis Stafeckis (double bass), Agnese Egliņa (piano), Ivo Krūskops (percussion). Programme: Johannes Brahms, Regis Campo, Yan Maresz, Santa Ratniece 13 19:00 Organ music concert. Ilze Reine (organ), the Flensburg St. Nikolai Choir (Germany). Programme: A. Dvorak - Missa 15 19:00 Organ music concert from the cycle All pieces for organ by Bach. Organ: Lelde Krastiņa, Digna Markule, Līga Pūķe 22 19:00 LNSO season opening concert. Karen Slack (soprano), Elena Batoukova (mezzo soprano), Latvian National Opera Choir, Karel Mark Chichon (conductor). Programme: Ēriks Ešenvalds Fanfare (world premiere), Gustav Mahler Symphony No.2

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The Magnus Lindgren Quartet will perform songs from Batucada Jazz at the Riga Art Space on November 15

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19:00 Organ music concert. Thiemo Janssen (Germany) 19:00 LNSO concert. Karen Slack (soprano), Elena Batoukova (mezzo soprano), Latvian National Opera Choir, Karel Mark Chichon (conductor). Programme: Ēriks Ešenvalds Fanfare (world premiere), Gustav Mahler Symphony No.2 19:30 Living Music. Egīls Šēfers (clarinet), Ēriks Kiršfelds (violoncello), Toms Ostrovskis (piano). Programme: Mārīte Dombrovska, Andris Dzenītis, Roberto Sierra, Santa Ratniece, Steve Reich, Imants Zemzaris 19:00 Viviana Sofronitzki plays the piano of Chopin’s times 20:00 An Evening Talk in St.John’s Church. Pastor Juris Rubenis, poet Uldis Bērziņš, the music journalist Orests Silabriedis and the Latvian Radio Choir 19:30 Astrophonia. Kristaps Pētersons (double bass), Elīna Endzele (percussion), Uģis Krišjānis (keyboard), Varis Piņķis (narrator). Programme: Ludwig van Beethoven, Kristaps Pētersons, Kaija Saariaho, Urmas Sisask, Karlheinz Stockhausen 11:00 Tiny Sprites. Symphony concert for children 14:00 Tiny Sprites. Symphony concert for children 18:00 Tchaikovsky’s Violin Concerto and Stradivarius. Kirill Troussov (violin), Sinfonietta Rīga. Programme: Ludwig van Beethoven, Pyotr Tchaikovsky

Nov 4 19:30 Cherubini’s Requiem. Liepāja Symphony Orhestra and the Estonian National Men’s Choir 5 19:00 Evgeny Kissin piano concert. Programme: Chopin 8 19:00 An evening of one-act ballets. The Riga Choreography School, ballet soloists of the LNO and Moscow Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Musical Theatre. Programme: Chopiniana, Mikhail Fokin (choreography), Illusive Ball, Dmitri Briantzev (choreography). 9 19:00 An evening of one-act ballets. The Riga Choreography School, ballet soloists of the LNO and Moscow Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Musical Theatre. Programme: Chopiniana, Mikhail Fokin (choreography), Illusive Ball, Dmitri Briantzev (choreography). 12 19:30 Chamber Symphony. Zoom In. Altera veritas and Sinfonietta Rīga. Programme: John Adams, Vilnis Šmīdbergs, Mārtiņš Viļums

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Culture & Events Classical music (continued) 26

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10-time Grammy Award winners Take 6 will sing a cappella tunes at the Riga Congress Centre on November 30

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19:00 LNSO and K. M. Chichon concert. Sergei Krilov (violin), Michele Crider (soprano), Elena Batoukova (mezzo soprano), Valter Borin (tenor), Samson Izjumov (baritone), Rihards Mačanovskis (bass), Krišjānis Norvelis (bass), Karel Mark Chichon (conductor). Programme: Part I: Franz von Suppe’s Light Cavalry Overture, Pablo de Saraste’s Carmen Fantasy, Maurice Ravel’s Bolero; Part II: G. Verdi’s La forza del destino Overture, Libera me from Requiem and Grand Finale Secondo from Aida 19:00 LNSO and K. M. Chichon concert (same programme and participants as above) 19:30 A concert marking the 60th anniversary of the Riga Cathedral Boy’s Choir. The Riga Cathedral Boys’ Choir, Riga Cathedral Boys’ Choir’s men’s group, Raimonds Pauls (piano), Sinfonietta Rīga. Programme: Emīls Dārziņš, Raimonds Pauls, Jāzeps Vītols 16:00 Minotaur. Gints Gabrāns (video), Latvian Radio Choir. Programme: Ģirts Bišs, Voldemārs Johansons 18:00 Minotaur. Gints Gabrāns (video), Latvian Radio Choir. Programme: Ģirts Bišs, Voldemārs Johansons 16:00 Minotaur (same as above) 18:00 Minotaur (same as above) 19:30 Fire Sign. Oskars Petrauskis (saxophone), Ēriks Kiršfelds (violincello), Uģis Krišjānis (keyboards), DJ Krii, Kristaps Pētersons (double bass), Tālis Timrots (sound engineer). Programme: Latvian traditional songs arranged by Volfgangs Dārziņš, Jēkabs Nīmanis, Kristaps Pētersons and Jāzeps Vītols 19:00 Organ music concert from the cycle All pieces for organ by Bach. Organ: Kristīne Adamaite, Jolanta Barinska

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19:30 Andris Nelsons and the OP Birmingham Symphony Orchestra. Vestards Šimkus (piano), the Birmingham Symphony Orchestra. Programme: Mahler’s Symphony No.5, S. Rachmaninov’s Piano Concerto No.3 11:00 Children’s concert. Cat’s Concert. SK Evita Zālīte-Raituma (soprano), Baiba Berķe (mezzo-soprano), Jānis Tretjuks (clarinet), Riga Choreography School soloists, children cocal group Palāsītes 13:00 Children’s concert. Cat’s Concert. SK Evita Zālīte-Raituma (soprano), Baiba Berķe (mezzo-soprano), Jānis Tretjuks (clarinet), Riga Choreography School soloists, children cocal group Palāsītes

Galleries Agija Sūna I-2, Kalēju 9/11,

tel. (+371) 67 08 75 43, www. stiklagalerija.lv. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Arsenāls Museum of Art

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H-1, Torņa 1, tel. (+371) 67 35 75 27, www.lnmm.lv. This exhibition hall specialises in local French superstar Mireille and international contemporary Mathieu will perform art projects and events. QOpen at Arena Riga on 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, November 25 at 19:30 Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 1 - 2.50Ls. RC Daugava I-2, Alksnāja 10/12, tel. (+371) 67 21 28 96, www.galerijadaugava.lv. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Riga Art Space I-2, Kungu 3, tel. (+371) 67 18 13 30, www.artspace.riga.lv. A multifunctional space for contemporary art exhibitions and even music concerts run by the city of Riga. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. RC Riga Gallery (Rīgas galerija) H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 20, tel. (+371) 67 22 58 87, www.riga-gallery.com. Exhibitions by hot contemporary Latvian artists. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Salons Māksla C-4, Brīvības 52, tel. (+371) 67 28 08 55/(+371) 29 33 14 41, [email protected]. Opened in 1939, Riga’s oldest art gallery offers a broad range of contemporary and modern art that will satisfy serious collectors, utter neophytes and everyone in between. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Tickets Ticket Paradise (Biļešu paradīze) G-1, Kronvalda

RC

bulv. 2 (National Theatre), tel. (+371) 90 00 20 00, www.bilesuparadize.lv. Tickets to mostly Latvian events such as concerts and theatre. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at the box offices of the Opera (H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3). A Ticket Service (Biļešu serviss) I-3, 13. janvāra 8 (Stockmann - top floor), www.bilesuserviss.lv. Tickets to major concerts by international stars. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Also at Statoil petrol stations. A

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Where to stay As part of a mad dash to get its hands on some extra cash, the nearly bankrupt Latvian government slapped hotel rooms with a value added tax of 21% in January 2009 - an increase of 16%! Naturally, this nearly destroyed the local accommodation and tourism industries, but the gang of 100 in the parliament has finally decided to reverse its ill-conceived error by lowering VAT on hotel rooms to an acceptable 10% starting May 1, 2010. Rates listed here include breakfast and VAT unless otherwise noted.

Symbol key

Cream of the crop

W Free wireless internet RC Riga Card discounts

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

C Swimming pool

H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre

U Facilities for the disabled

6 Pets allowed

L Guarded parking

K Restaurant

D Sauna

Gallery Park Hotel F-2, Valdemāra 7, tel. (+371) 67

33 88 30, www.galleryparkhotel.lv. Built in 1875, this historic building has been lovingly restored and transformed into what may be Riga’s most luxurious hotel. Rooms on the first three floors look as if they were transplanted from Versailles and include massive chandeliers, high gilded ceilings, dark wood panelling, intricate parquet floors and restored antique furniture not to mention modern conveniences such as wireless internet access, safe and mini-bar. Some also include private terraces with views of the park. The top floor is a modern affair with minimalist interiors for those who don’t appreciate opulence. A wine bar, upmarket restaurant and day spa are also available. Q24 rooms (superior 150Ls, deluxe 180Ls, gallery deluxe 250 - 270Ls, gallery suites 355Ls, royal suites 1026 - 1110Ls, imperial suites 1280 - 1365Ls). PHA6UFLKDXCW

Grand Palace Hotel H-1, Pils 12, tel. (+371) 67 04 40

00, www.grandpalaceriga.com. The regal entrance has seen the likes of Catherine Deneuve and rocker Sting pass through it on their way to some of the most attractive rooms in Riga. All are lavishly decorated in blue, white and gold, and truly are fit for a king. Satellite TV, free wireless internet access, minibar, trouser press, safe and full bathroom are all standard, with a fitness centre, sauna and steam room also available. Q56 rooms (16 doubles 109 - 133Ls, 3 suites 246 - 260Ls, 3 junior suites 175 - 190Ls, 3 business class 140 - 154Ls, 31 deluxe 116 - 140Ls). PJHA6UFLKDW

Hotel Bergs C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga Bazārs),

tel. (+371) 67 77 09 00, fax (+371) 67 77 09 40, [email protected], www.hotelbergs.lv. Spacious, tasteful and luxurious. Pamper yourself in this sleek, centrally located yet quiet hotel in the trendy Berga Bazārs shopping plaza. Offering an array of amenities, Hotel Bergs’ spacious interiors are a contrast of light and dark, wood and linen. Discuss matters of grave importance in the top floor glass conference hall which seats up to 120 people or unwind in its stylish restaurant - one of Riga’s best. Hotel Bergs is a member of the alliance of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Q Breakfast: 14Ls. 38 rooms (21 studio suites from 126Ls, 7 apartment suites from 178Ls, 6 loft suites from 178Ls, 4 penthouse suites from 265Ls). PHA� RUFLKDXW

Hotel de Rome H-2, Kaļķu 28, tel. (+371) 67 08 76 00,

fax (+371) 67 08 76 06, [email protected], www. derome.lv. A landmark hotel located in Old Riga only a stone’s throw from the Freedom Monument, Hotel de Rome offers tastefully decorated rooms with cable TV, wireless internet, phone, mini-bar and local artwork on the walls. Business class accommodation has the added benefit of a trouser press and heat lamps in the bathrooms, while suites provide extra space and incredible views. An elegant top-floor restaurant called Otto Schwarz is also available as well as a lobby bar. Q 88 rooms (6 singles from 75Ls, 35 doubles from 85Ls, 28 business class from 91Ls, 18 suites from 113Ls, 1 presidential apartment 600Ls). JHA6UFKDXW RC

Riga In Your Pocket

Hotel Neiburgs I-1, Jauniela 25/27, tel. (+371) 67 11

55 22, fax (+371) 67 55 95 62, www.neiburgs.com. This stylish design hotel is housed in one of Old Riga’s most beautiful art nouveau buildings. All 55 of its apartments include a combination of modern minimalist décor and original elements like restored parquet floors that date back to 1903. Kitchens, spacious rooms, huge plasma TVs, free wireless internet access, bathrooms with bathtubs, slippers and robes and excellent views all come standard. Two-storey suites, accommodation with balconies and an excellent restaurant are also available. Q55 rooms (36 studio apartments 63 - 77Ls, 4 studio deluxe 112Ls, 8 senior suites 134Ls, 4 two-storey suites 169Ls, 3 two-storey deluxe suites 204Ls). Breakfast: 7Ls. PJHA6UFKDXW

Radisson BLU Ridzene Hotel G-3, Reimersa 1, tel.

(+371) 67 09 33 33, fax (+371) 67 32 26 00, info. [email protected], w w w.radissonblu. com/ridzenehotel-riga. A 1980s edifice located between two beautiful parks houses one of Riga’s most deluxe hotels. Expect comfy rooms with cherry wood decorations and an excellent top-floor sauna and fitness complex with 180° views. The friendly staff has an eye for detail - our favourite improvement to the former Soviet elite hotel is the happy rubber duck in each bathroom. Q 95 rooms (77 standard class from €85, 13 business class from €145, 3 suites from €385, 1 presidential suite from €885, 1 wheelchair accessible from €85). PHA6UFLKDXW

Upmarket Albert Hotel B-4, Dzirnavu 33, tel. (+371) 67 33 17 17,

www.alberthotel.lv. Nearly everything in this huge 11-storey hotel revolves around a common theme - Albert Einstein and his theories. Each of the 246 rooms includes a quote from the father of modern science, the conference facilities are named space, time and light, the ‘do not disturb’ signs simply say ‘I’m thinking’ and even the carpets include a pattern of working atoms. All rooms are tastefully decorated with relaxing autumnal colours and have the standard amenities you would expect from a great hotel. A restaurant and 11th-floor cocktail lounge are also at your disposal. Q246 rooms (7 singles 56 - 91Ls, 227 doubles 62 - 101Ls, 3 family rooms 122Ls, 9 business class 133Ls). PHAR6ULKW

Hanza Hotel E-4, Elijas 7, tel. (+371) 67 79 60 40,

www.hanzahotel.lv. Only a short walk from the Central Market, the Hanza Hotel is located on a historic square with a beautiful church at its centre. All rooms are tastefully decorated in warm autumnal colours and come standard with wireless internet access, cable TV, phone and bathrooms with heated tile floors and hairdryers. The top floor is available for smokers and the entire building is disabled-friendly. An upmarket restaurant and a charming cellar pub are also available. Q80 rooms (22 singles 35 - 66Ls, 52 doubles 42 - 84Ls, 6 business class 60 - 104Ls). HAR6ULKXW

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Where to stay

Hotel Gutenbergs H-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. (+371)

67 81 40 90, www.gutenbergs.eu. The only way that this luxury hotel could have a better location would be if it were located inside Latvia’s largest cathedral instead of right next to it. All rooms offer the usual amenities including satellite TV, writing desk, wireless internet and spacious bathrooms, but we recommend the cosy, rustically furnished rooms in the section that was once a 17th-century warehouse. In keeping with the Johannes Gutenberg theme, a small bronze book is attached to each room key. Q38 rooms (14 singles 70Ls, 17 doubles 80Ls, 1 suite 120Ls, 6 junior suites 99Ls). PJHA6ULKW RC

Hotel Rīga I-3, Aspazijas bulv. 22, tel. (+371) 67 04

42 22, www.hotelriga.lv. This immense building is located on the edge of Old Riga opposite the opera house. Although its labyrinthine hallways and large empty spaces still give off that slightly Soviet vibe, you couldn’t pick a more central location. A restaurant and business centre are also available. Q230 rooms (63 singles €50, 93 doubles €53, 13 triples €75, 3 suites €101, 1 apartment €253, 12 junior suites €82). JHAR6LGKDXW RC

Islande Hotel C-2, Ķīpsalas 20, tel. (+371) 67 60 80

00, fax (+371) 67 60 80 01, www.islandehotel.lv. In keeping with its Icelandic theme, Islande offers stylish minimalist Scandinavian decor that is especially evident in the lobby area that resembles a modern art gallery. All rooms are somewhat spacious and include the usual four-star amenities, but you can also choose to splurge on the Odin suite with its own sauna and hot tub. A spa centre, an entire allergy-free floor, two restaurants and even a cellar bowling alley are among its other perks. Q213 rooms (28 singles 65Ls, 136 doubles 75Ls, 8 triples 95Ls, 2 suites 280Ls, 39 junior suites 95Ls). PHAR6UFKDX

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Konventa Sēta I-2, Kalēju 9/11, tel. (+371) 67 08

75 07, fax (+371) 67 08 75 15, www.konventa.lv. With foundations that were once part of the medieval city wall, the sprawling Konventa Sēta (Convent Yard) stands its ground against Riga’s many hotels. A maze of hallways joins nine historic buildings, and leads to a variety of rooms, some with original oak beams. Standard amenities are available as well as disabled and non-smoking rooms, not to mention plenty of shopping and eating options in its extensive courtyard. Apartments with kitchenettes are also available. Q 141 rooms (10 singles from 36Ls, 65 doubles from 38Ls, 14 junior suites from 43Ls, 12 suites from 52Ls, 38 apartments from 38Ls, 2 luxury apartments from 70Ls). JHA6UKXW RC

Metropole I-3, Aspazijas bulv. 36, tel. (+371) 67 22 54

11, fax (+371) 67 21 61 40, www.metropole.lv. The oldest continuously running hotel in Riga, the Metropole has been catering to the city’s visitors from its excellent location by the Latvian National Opera since 1871. A Scandinavian influence is evident in every aspect of the hotel, whether it is the design of the cosy rooms or the cuisine offered in the restaurant. All rooms, smoking and non-smoking, are tastefully decorated in pleasant pastel colours and include satellite TV, wireless internet access, minibar, safe, trouser press, and bathrooms with showers. A restaurant and bar are also available. Q 41 rooms (17 singles from €60, 24 doubles/twins from €70). PJHAR6FKDX RC

Hotel help Did you have a bad experience at a bed & breakfast? Leave your laptop at a hotel? Contact the Association of Hotels & Restaurants of Latvia www.hotel.lv.

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Where to stay Monika Centrum Hotel B-3, Elizabetes 21, tel. (+371)

67 03 19 00, fax (+371) 67 03 19 01, www.centrumhotels.com. This four-star hotel housed in a completely renovated neo-Gothic building built in 1883, offers spacious rooms with satellite TV, climate control, mini-bar, phone, internet access and private bathrooms with bathtub and bidet as well as a bar, restaurant, modern conference facilities and a fitness centre. Many of the rooms also include balconies with excellent views of the park and surrounding 19th-century architecture. Named after the owner’s daughter, Monika also offers incredible suites with original decorative artwork and four-poster beds. Q80 rooms (12 singles 53Ls, 50 doubles 60Ls, 3 suites 91Ls, 1 apartment 105Ls, 14 junior suites 67Ls). PHAR6UFKDXW

Old City Boutique Hotel I-3, Teātra 10, tel. (+371) 67

35 60 60, www.oldcityhotel.lv. Spread out over two Old Riga buildings, one recently reconstructed and the other that has served as a hotel for nearly a decade, this boutique hotel offers modern minimalist rooms decorated in subtle beige, brown and grey tones in the new wing and more classic wood furnishings in the older section. Satellite TV, free internet access, mini-bar, phone, safe and private bathrooms with heated floors all come standard. Luxury suites with terraces and incredible views are also at your disposal. Q66 rooms (4 singles 32Ls, 55 doubles 49Ls, 6 suites 88Ls, 1 junior suite 74Ls). PJHAR6KD

Radisson BLU Daugava D-2, Kuģu 24, tel. (+371) 67

06 11 11, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-riga. Singles and doubles are spacious and include cable TV, minibar and full bathroom. Business travellers can choose business class rooms or suites, which are more spacious and include a few extra perks like two phone lines for internet access and other amenities. An excellent fitness centre with a pool is available as well as conference rooms and a restaurant. Q361 rooms (107 singles 48 - 70Ls, 163 doubles 48 - 70Ls, 26 suites 175 - 690Ls, 13 apartments, 52 junior suites 85 - 112Ls). PHA6UFKDXCW

Radisson BLU Elizabete Hotel C-4, Elizabetes 73,

tel. (+371) 67 78 55 55, fax (+371) 67 78 55 54, www. radissonblu.com/elizabetehotel-riga. Built from the ground up in 2008, this incredibly stylish hotel is located opposite Riga’s most beautiful park a short walk from Old Riga. Its interior was created by a trendy London design firm and each of its modern, spacious rooms includes flat screen TVs, free wireless internet, large bathrooms and many other four-star amenities as well as views of either the courtyard or the park. A fitness centre, a hip cocktail bar and a grill restaurant called C.U.T. are also at your disposal. Q 228 rooms (204 standard class from €85, 18 business class from €105, 3 junior suites from €285, 1 suite from €345, 2 wheelchair accessible from €85). PHAUFLGKDW

Radisson BLU Hotel Latvija C-4, Elizabetes 55, tel.

(+371) 67 77 22 22, fax (+371) 67 77 22 21, www. radissonblu.com/latvijahotel-riga. This one-time In-Tourist skyscraper has been transformed into one of Latvia’s premier hotels. All rooms include phone, minibar, hairdryer, climate control and satellite TV. Executive class suites are more spacious and include a few extra amenities. Allergy and smoke-free accommodation is also at your disposal, as well as three bars, a restaurant, conference facilities and room service, not to mention a new wing with dozens of shops and a seafood restaurant. Don’t miss the view from the 26th-floor Skyline Bar. Q 571 rooms (478 standard from €79, 47 superior class from €99, 38 business class from €149, 3 suites from €329, 1 presidential suite from €479). POTHA6UFKDXCW

Riga In Your Pocket

Tallink Hotel Riga D-4, Elizabetes 24, tel. (+371) 67 09

97 60, fax (+371) 67 09 97 62, booking@tallinkhotels. lv, www.hotels.tallink.com. This stylish hotel located a short walk from Old Riga was built from the ground up in 2010. You can expect modern décor in all of its 256 rooms, which include brown, white and silver colours, flat screen TVs, free wireless internet access, safe, phone and other 4-star amenities as well as bathrooms with heated tile floors and huge showerheads. A restaurant, lobby bar, café, cigar room and beauty salon are also available and kids are given colouring books and crayons while their parents check in. A morning sauna is also included in the price and underground parking is available. Q256 rooms (21 singles 68Ls, 227 doubles 72Ls, 3 suites 142Ls, 5 junior suites 103Ls). PHAUFKDXW

Mid-range ABC Šampētera 139a, tel. (+371) 67 89 27 28, www.

hotelabc.lv. Although this place is halfway between the airport and the centre, it’s worth the drive if you’re looking for decent accommodation at a good price. All rooms have modern bathrooms with showers, light coloured interiors with wooden furniture, TV, minibar, telephone and internet as well as access to a sauna and conference room. During the summer a small pool is available, as well as an area for hooking up your camper or just laying out your tent. Q60 rooms (11 singles 40Ls, 36 doubles 50Ls, 10 triples 70Ls, 1 suite 80Ls, 1 apartment 99Ls, 1 junior suite 55Ls). HA� R6UFLKDC RC

Art Hotel Laine B-4, Skolas 11, tel. (+371) 67 28 88 16, www.laine.lv. From the sunny staff to the unique, spacious and colourful interior, Laine is a superb, affordable central find located in a restored art nouveau building. Rooms offer cable TV, mini-bar, private bathrooms and interesting décor that includes antique furniture and paintings by Latvian artists. Conference facilities, a restaurant with a fireplace and summer terrace and free wireless internet access are also available. Q 35 rooms (28 singles and doubles 32 - 50Ls, 5 triples and apartments 50 - 60Ls, 2 suites 55 - 60Ls). HA6LKXW RC

City Hotel Bruņinieks B-4, Bruņinieku 6, tel. (+371)

67 31 51 40, www.cityhotel.lv. Pass the suit of armour and walk into the reception and bar area that is actually a courtyard which has been converted into a bright atrium that connects all three of the hotel’s buildings. All rooms, singles, doubles and suites, are surprisingly spacious and include standard amenities such as cable TV, mini-bar, phone, wireless internet and large bathrooms with hairdryer, heated tile floors and either a bathtub or shower. A restaurant, sauna and conference room are available on the 7th floor. Q68 rooms (4 singles 65Ls, 42 doubles 75Ls, 10 triples 90Ls, 2 suites 130Ls, 1 apartment 130Ls, 10 junior suites 85Ls). PHAULKDW RC

Countryside holidays Lauku Ceļotājs (Country Traveller) D-1, Kaln-

ciema 40, tel. (+371) 67 61 76 00, www.celotajs.lv. The Country Traveller offers B&B outside of Riga. Check out its comprehensive website to find the countryside vacation of your dreams. Ride horses, go fishing, sweat it out in a traditional sauna, enjoy a romantic evening by a roaring fire in a renovated farmhouse or a regal stay in an ancient castle. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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Where to stay Hotel Edvards F-3, Dzirnavu 45/47, tel. (+371) 67 43

99 60, fax (+371) 67 43 99 59, hotel@hoteledvards. lv, www.hoteledvards.lv. Opened in late 2008, this quiet family-run hotel is a great option for people who’d like to avoid the noise and party atmosphere of Old Riga or travellers who simply want a good night’s sleep. All rooms are similarly decorated with bright walls and peach-coloured doors and carpeting and include flat screen TVs, free wireless internet access, mini-bar, phone and bathrooms with heated tile floors. Superior rooms are more spacious and include bathtubs and terraces. A children’s room and a Viennese-style cafe are also at your disposal. Although the hotel is non-smoking, each floor has a communal balcony where you can light up. Q20 rooms (7 singles 38Ls, 11 doubles 43Ls, 2 superior 59Ls). PTA6LXW

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Hotel Irina D-4, Merķeļa 12, tel. (+371) 67 71 53 02,

www.hotelirina.lv. Located just across the street from the train station, one of Hotel Irina’s most obvious advantages is its close proximity to Old Riga. Although each of its many rooms is slightly different in size, most offer red carpeting and yellow walls as well as cable TV, mini-bar, phone, internet access and private bathrooms with showers and hairdryers. The suite boasts a sauna, hot tub and a bidet in the bathroom, but the interior of the room is unusual to say the least. To avoid tobacco smells request a non-smoking room. Q75 rooms (20 singles 30Ls, 40 doubles 40 - 50Ls, 13 triples 62Ls, 1 suite 200Ls, 1 junior suite 77Ls). HAKDX

Hotel Spāre Spāres 3, tel. (+371) 67 89 20 82, www.

spare.lv. Not far from the airport, this modest hotel with an adjoining bowling alley and café is a good option if you have your own transportation or don’t mind taking cabs to and from the centre of Riga. Doubles are somewhat spacious, painted in bright pastel colours and include a bed, private bathroom and not much else. Doubles in the attic are more comfortable and have the added luxury of cable TV, skylights and cosier interior design. Hotel guests are entitled to discounted frames of bowling. Take the infrequent bus N°8 from the central station to the Ventspils iela stop and walk the rest of the way. Q15 rooms (7 singles 25Ls, 7 doubles 35Ls, 1 junior suite 45Ls). Breakfast 3Ls. HA6LKX

Kolonna Hotel Brigita Saulkalnes 11, tel. (+371) 67

62 30 00, fax (+371) 67 62 31 90, reservationbrigita@ kolonna.com, www.hotelkolonna.com. This secluded hotel located in a quiet Pārdaugava neighbourhood halfway between the airport and Old Riga is part of the Kolonna Hotel Group. Dozens of three-star rooms are your disposal that include standard amenities such as cable TV, phone, safe, free wireless internet access and private bathrooms with hair dryers. The hotel also offers a restaurant and a wide variety of conference facilities. Take trolleybus N°19 from Raiņa bulvāris to the Kartupeļu iela stop. Q 45 rooms (singles from 25Ls, 25 doubles from 32Ls, 9 triples 39Ls, 4 junior suites 45Ls, 1 suite 45Ls, 6 apartments 45Ls). HA6LKXW

Kolonna Hotel Riga H-2, Tirgoņu 9, tel. (+371) 67

35 82 54, fax (+371) 67 35 82 55, reservationriga@ kolonna.com, www.hotelkolonna.com. Located on one of Old Riga’s most charming streets just off Cathedral Square, this stylish hotel certainly has plenty to offer and at very affordable prices. Each room is slightly different in size but all offer satellite TV, writing desk, phone, private bathrooms with shower and minimalist décor. The top floor rooms also have air conditioning and luxury two-storey penthouse suites are also available. A wide variety of good eating and drinking venues are available on the same street. Q41 rooms (2 singles 30Ls, 18 doubles 32Ls, 11 studios 42Ls, 2 penthouses 45Ls, 8 family 45Ls). JAUXW

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Where to stay TIA B-4, Valdemāra 63, tel. (+371) 67 33 39 18, fax

(+371) 67 83 03 90, [email protected], www.hoteltia.lv. This three-star hotel offers comfortable accommodation in the city centre and its 49 rooms face a quiet courtyard so you don’t have to worry about noise. With the exception of the upmarket suites on the top floor, all rooms are decorated in a similar style with bright pastel colours, wood furnishings designed by local craftsmen, cable TV, phone, safe, mini-bar and private bathrooms with showers and hair dryers. We, however, prefer the rooms on the sixth floor each of which has its own balcony at no extra cost. An internet terminal at reception, café/bar and free wi-fi are also available. Q49 rooms (6 singles 25Ls, 7 doubles 30Ls, 3 triples 45Ls, 2 suites 40Ls, 31 twin 30Ls). HAR6LGKW RC

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Bed & Breakfast B&B Krisjanis & Gertrude C-5, Barona 39-1 (entrance

from Ģertrūdes), tel. (+371) 67 50 66 04, fax (+371) 67 50 66 03, [email protected], www.kg.lv. Not unlike a typical British B&B, this hotel only offers six rooms, but each is decorated in a different fashion and provides cable TV, free wireless internet access, modern bathrooms, coffee/tea set and a cosy atmosphere that one would expect from a home away from home. A common room is also available with a kitchenette and a computer with internet access. Q8 rooms (6 singles 21Ls, 6 doubles 28Ls, 2 triples 32Ls). AGW

Homestay Stokholmas 1, tel. (+371) 67 55 30 16,

www.homestay.lv. The friendly owners of this B&B, a Kiwi and a Latvian, rent four of the rooms of their beautiful home in Mežaparks. After you’ve had a beer or cup of tea with the man of the house, you can settle into your room decorated with photos and Eastern carpets and kilims covering the hardwood floors. One incredibly large room also offers a balcony at no extra cost. A breakfast room with a large fireplace and a TV/DVD player is available as well as a laundry room. A huge breakfast and a free walking tour of Mežaparks are included in the price of the room. No stag parties! Take tram N°11 to Visbijas prospekts or call them to arrange transportation. Q 4 rooms (singles 25Ls, doubles35Ls). ILGW

Hotel Multilux C-5, Barona 37 (entrance from Ģertrūdes),

tel. (+371) 67 31 16 02/(+371) 29 40 03 43, fax (+371) 67 31 16 40, [email protected], www.multilux.lv. All of the rooms in this historic Art Nouveau building in the centre of Riga are completely renovated with tasteful furniture, cable TV and en suite bathrooms. Multilux is family-owned so you’re guaranteed good service as well as internet access, housekeeping, 24-hour reception and a breakfast buffet. A great value! Q15 rooms (3 singles 12 - 20Ls, 3 doubles 18 - 29Ls, 2 triples 21 - 29Ls, 5 twin 15 - 25Ls, 1 six-bed room 39 - 59Ls, 1 studio apartment 50Ls). AR6GW

Jakob Lenz B-3, Lenču 2, tel. (+371) 67 33 33 43, fax (+371) 67 33 13 78, reservation@guesthouselenz. lv, www.guesthouselenz.lv. This B&B located in a quiet residential neighbourhood is only a stone’s throw from the city’s most impressive Art Nouveau buildings and offers bright and spacious rooms, many with private bathrooms, within renovated apartments on three floors. A full kitchen is also available as well as a communal computer with internet access or free wireless in rooms. Q19 rooms (3 singles 16 - 20Ls, 8 doubles 20 - 30Ls, 4 triples 25 - 35Ls, 4 apartments 35 - 45Ls). A6W

Reserve a room online at riga.inyourpocket.com Riga In Your Pocket

Budget Dodo Hotel E-6, Jersikas 1, tel. (+371) 67 24 02 20,

www.dodohotel.com. Although budget airlines have been flying to Riga for years now, local hoteliers have completely ignored the budget accommodation niche - until now. Built in 2008, this Western, French-owned low-cost hotel offers 109 rooms with flat screen TVs, free wireless internet, private bathrooms with showers and hairdryer for incredibly low prices. A continental breakfast is also available and the cafés and bars of Old Riga are only a short tram ride away. Great value for money. Q 109 rooms (105 doubles/twin 20Ls, 4 family rooms 34Ls). Breakfast 3.50Ls. AR6ULW

Hotel Jūrnieks Sofijas 8, tel. (+371) 67 39 23 50, www.hoteljurnieks.lv. Surrounded by neglected housing estates on the outskirts of Riga, the Sailor may not be the ideal hotel for everyone, but if you don’t mind a lengthy tram ride and you want to save loads of money on accommodation, then look no further. Completely renovated in 2004, its simple rooms offer cable TV and private bathrooms or extras such as phone and internet access on the 5th floor. Take trams N°5 or 9 from Aspazijas to the Allažu iela stop. Q90 rooms (18 singles 32Ls, 47 doubles 32Ls, 4 suites 70Ls, 2 apartments 80Ls, 15 anti-allergy 32Ls, 4 junior suites 70Ls, 2 disabled-friendly 32Ls). Breakfast not included. HAR6LGKDX

Liene C-6, Avotu 75/3, tel. (+371) 67 31 47 67, www.

lathotel.lv. Liene may be difficult to find and a little far from the main tourist attractions, but its prices more than make up for these deficiencies. Walk into the courtyard and through the door on the left and you’ll discover a cosy banquet hall and bar as well as a sauna with a huge chest-high wooden tub for soaking yourself after a session of sweating. Rooms are small, but comfortable and recently renovated with cable TV, writing desk and private bathroom with shower. The apartments also have kitchenettes for self catering. Q16 rooms (4 singles 20Ls, 11 doubles 25Ls, 1 triple 35Ls). ALGKDW RC

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Where to stay Livonija E-4, Maskavas 32, tel. (+371) 67 20 41 80,

www.hotellivonija.lv. Opened in late 2004, this cosy motel offers 15 comfortable rooms just beyond the Central Market, only a few tram stops from the old city. Singles and doubles are on the small side and offer bright interiors with wood furnishings, private bathrooms and cable TV. Junior suites are basically the same, but more spacious and definitely worth the extra cash. Their restaurant serves inexpensive Latvian food, which can also be delivered to your room, should you be too lazy to go downstairs. Q13 rooms (5 singles 27Ls, 5 doubles 30Ls, 3 junior suites 30Ls). Breakfast: 2.70Ls. A6LKW

Skanste A-4, Skanstes 9, tel. (+371) 67 51 99 23,

www.hotelskanste.lv. Not being right in the city centre comes with its advantages. Peace and quiet, fresh air, green views, open space and the closest proximity of any hotel to Arena Riga, the best venue for concerts and sporting events like Dynamo Riga hockey games in the city. Skanste isn’t at the height of fashion, but doesn’t try to be. The recipe here is genuine country-style friendliness and straightforward comfort in a family environment. Disabled guests also welcome. Q35 rooms (singles 21Ls, doubles 29Ls, triples 40Ls, junior suites 40Ls). HA6LGW

Hostels Central Hostel D-5, E. Birznieka-Upīša 20, tel. (+371)

22 32 26 62, [email protected], www.centralhostel.lv. Just look for the only orange wooden house on the corner (perhaps the only one in Riga). Rooms are somewhat spacious and include bright coloured interiors. Modern shared toilets and showers are located in the hallway and a small kitchen and common room with TV, CD player and games are also at your disposal. Breakfast, a smoking room with hookahs, free internet access and a book exchange corner are also available. A grocery store is located on the ground floor and the hostel also rents bikes. Q 23 rooms (2 singles 15 - 18Ls, 11 doubles 18 - 29Ls, 4 twin 18 - 24Ls, 1 triple 21 - 30Ls, 3 quads 24 - 32Ls, 1 five-bed dorm 20 - 25Ls, 1 ensuite 28 - 32Ls). A6LW

Riga Hostel I-2, Mārstaļu 12, tel. (+371) 67 22 45 20,

[email protected], www.rigahostel.com.lv. Pass the ground floor restaurant with the odd name to find this modern, comfortable hostel. Prices for beds are affordable and the location on a popular Old Riga street couldn’t be more central. Each dorm room has its own bathroom and shower and a kitchen is available if you’d like to do your own cooking. A relaxation room is also at your disposal where you can watch TV or a DVD, surf the net for free or smoke a hookah. No curfew. Q 8 rooms (doubles 8 - 12Ls/person, triple or quad 7 - 11Ls/person, 15-bed dorm 3.70 - 4Ls/person, 12-bed dorm 4 - 5Ls/person, 8-bed dorm 5 - 8Ls/person). JA6GKW

Riga House Hostel C-5, Barona 44 - 9 (entrance from

Lāčplēša), tel. (+371) 29 38 94 50, [email protected], www.rigaoutthere.com. This centrally located hostel is run by an expat tour operator, so not only will you have a comfortable bed, but you’ll also be able to book activities on the spot from shooting AK-47s and bungee jumping to cultural and nightlife tours. Dorm rooms offer bunk beds and also include hardwood floors and original Latvian tile fireplaces. A communal kitchen with a washing machine, a smoking balcony, free internet access, shared toilets, showers and even a bathtub are all at your disposal as well as cheeky little signs like: ‘Burning down The House is not a good idea. Turn off the gas tank’. Q Breakfast: 5Ls. 3 rooms (2 doubles 30Ls, 1 four-bed dorm 10Ls/person). A6KXW

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The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers I-3, Kalēju 50, tel. (+371) 26 46 12 48, www.thenaughtysquirrel.com. The walls are cluttered with postcards, a dozen mugs hang above a bar and youth of all nationalities are in constant motion... and that’s just the reception area. Walk down hallways covered in graffiti by local street artists to find singles, family rooms and dorms each of which includes private lockers. Shared toilets and showers, a full kitchen and a communal room with cable TV, a DVD player and three free computers are also available here at the place that hostelworld.com rated the 9th best hostel in the world! It also offers a wide range of tours and activities. Q 20 rooms (4 doubles 32Ls, 3 triples 35Ls, 2 four-bed dorms 10 - 12Ls/person, 4 six-bed dorms 9 - 10Ls/person, 4 eight-bed dorms 8 - 9Ls/person, 2 ensuite 30 - 35Ls). Breakfast not included. JAW

Apartment rental Agency Lilija Plus I-3, Rīdzenes 25, tel. (+371) 67

21 60 40/(+371) 29 23 81 06, fax (+371) 67 21 60 54, [email protected], www.lilarealty.lv. Great choice of renovated apartments in Old Riga and the city centre from studio to four-bedroom apartments. Airport transfer, cleaning services and long-term rentals also available. Professional English-speaking staff.

Agency STES Latvia C-4, Dzirnavu 55, tel. (+371) 26

44 85 10, [email protected], www.stes.lv. Furnished, renovated apartments in or near Old Riga for short and long-term rental. All apartments are comfortable and fully equipped with cable TV, kitchen and bathroom. STES also offers rental properties including apartments, country houses and summer cottages in the countryside, Jūrmala and various locations along the Baltic coastline.

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Restaurants The current global financial crisis has sent many a Latvian chef packing. On the bright side, you can still find a thincrust pizza, fresh sushi, hearty pork knuckle and potatoes or an Armenian shashlik without much effort and many cafés now offer cheap lunch specials for as as low as 2 3Ls to lure diners into their empty establishments. Locals are a bit stingy, but a tip of 10% is expected from foreigners at most places. The average cost of a main course is listed in parentheses.

American T.G.I.Friday’s I-2, Kaļķu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 90 71,

www.rrg.lv. Local anti-globalisation fanatics may be upset, but expats and tourists can’t get enough of this American chain of bar/restaurants. The average Joe or Jānis may gripe about paying almost 6Ls for a burger, but it could also be argued that the abnormally large portions more than justify the price. Enjoy steaks, ribs, nachos and a huge selection of cocktails. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at the airport. (6 - 12Ls). AS

Armenian Akhtamar D-4, Merķeļa 9, tel. (+371) 67 21 50 32,

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

B Outside seating

X Smoking section

U Facilities for the disabled

W Free wireless internet RC Riga Card discounts

Art cafés Art Café Sienna B-3, Strēlnieku 3, tel. (+371) 26 14

22 86. This cosy café offers unparalleled views of the art nouveau masterpieces across the street. Inside you’ll find comfy brown leather couches, dark hardwood floors, shelves littered with popular English-language novels and plenty of local artwork on the walls. Order delicious coffee and tea with a slice of cake or a cookie or perhaps a glass of chardonnay from its wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. T NEW

www.akhtamar.lv. This cavernous brick cellar is a maze of rooms and niches decorated with traditional kilims hanging from the walls. Huge servings of grilled lamb, beef, pork and even trout are here in abundance as well as hearty soups and stews and a great selection of wines and brandies from across the Caucasus region. Beer lovers won’t be disappointed either with Czech Budweiser and local Lāčplēsis on draught. A large smoking section is available for anyone who needs a cigarette with his or her shashlik. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (5 - 7Ls). AEX

Flat C-5, Ģertrūdes46, tel. (+371) 67 29 40 10. Art cafés

Aragats B-5, Miera 15, tel. (+371) 67 37 34 45.

of Riga’s funkiest cafés, The Room overlooks a trendy gallery below, offers limited seating and has no menu to speak of. The chef asks each diner what he fancies eating and roughly how much he’d like to spend and then sets off to work. Cocktails, beer and coffee can also be had at this culinary experiment where art and gastronomy collide. Dinner is served Tuesday - Saturday 18:00 - 23:00. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (3 - 6Ls). A

Yerevan’s loss is Riga’s gain. Going to this authentic restaurant is like visiting an Armenian family for dinner, only you’re presented a bill at the end of the evening. In fact, the family who runs this authentic restaurant fled earthquake-racked Armenia only to open a little piece of their homeland in Riga. Feast on mouth-watering grilled lamb, veal and pork shashliks and a wide variety of other delicious cuisine from the Caucasus Mountains. Don’t miss the syrupy sweet coffees or a certain Georgian wine that used to be Stalin’s favourite. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (6 - 10Ls). AX

Armenia C-4, Dzirnavu 62, tel. (+371) 28 34 36 30.

Don’t be afraid of the elegant marble interior or the wait staff in white shirts and ties. This classic Armenian restaurant actually offers large servings of delicious cuisine from the Caucasus Mountains as well as some international favourites for affordable prices and the mouth-watering Ankerbräu Nördlingen Bavarian brews on draught are a steal at only 1.20Ls per half litre. Try the juicy hinkali (large meat dumplings) or one of 16 different shashliks (grilled meat) from veal and pork to steak and even trout. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). A

Mūķene (The Nun) E-1, Nometņu 58, tel. (+371) 67

61 83 80. Come inside the Nun for faux rock walls, chunky wooden tables and a good selection of incredibly cheap local beer. The illustrated menu offers Armenian and Latvian cuisine from succulent meats grilled outside under a canopy of smoke to pork knuckle, herring and grey peas with bacon. If you’re enjoying a night out on the town try the ‘appetiser platter for real men’ consisting of smoked meat, pork fat, onions, gherkins and two shots of vodka. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (2 - 5Ls). AIE

Riga In Your Pocket

are all the rage in Riga, and Flat is yet another addition to this genre. Brick walls painted white serve as a background for changing art exhibitions and nearly everything else in the place is either black or white with the exception of some turquoise chairs thrown in for good measure. Order flavoured coffees, cappuccinos and the like or a glass of wine and maybe even a cranberry muffin or some such snack. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. A

Istaba C-5, Barona 31a, tel. (+371) 67 28 11 41. One

Service & Tipping Although service has improved by leaps and bounds at many Riga restaurants, you shouldn’t expect flawless service at all of the city’s eating venues. Often times the wait staff are friendly and helpful in the beginning promptly bringing menus and offering the specials of the day with a smile even (a huge improvement from the 1990s). But just as often this same person disappears after the food has been brought to the table and you’re left doing charades or practicing your sign language to attract their attention to order the bill. Diners are left in a position of contemplating a runner just because the wait staff don’t consider payment a part of the dining process. Then what? To tip or not to tip? Locals are pretty stingy with tips, but 10% is expected from foreigners, which isn’t a bad deal unless of course you’ve been ignored by an insolent teenager at lunch, which, unfortunately, does still occur from time to time.

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Restaurants

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Asian

Belgian

dADa I-3, Audēju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 67

Bon Vivant I-2, Mārstaļu 8, tel. (+371) 67 22 65 85,

Gan Bei D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo), tel. (+371) 67

Cafés

10 44 33. The absurd interior and costumes worn by the wait staff prove that Dadaism isn’t dead. Although soups and main courses are on offer, most people choose the ‘food market’ which is essentially a Mongolian barbecue. Pick a sauce (coconut curry, mango ginger, etc.), take a bowl and fill it to the top with a variety of raw vegetables, noodles, meat or seafood and leave it with the chef. Within minutes it’ll be cooked and brought back to your table. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (5 - 7Ls). A 07 30 12, www.ganbei.lv. Although the location in a popular shopping centre may lack intimacy, this stylish restaurant is a must see for hungry yuppie shoppers who can choose dishes from two separate menus - one Chinese, the other sushi. The former offers an excellent selection of dishes not offered elsewhere in Riga; the latter original maki and nigiri concoctions that are as pleasing to the eye as they are to the palate. Try the sesame chicken or the rainbow sushi. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also on Brīvības 372 (Alfa Centre); Lielirbes 29 (Spice); Krasta 46 (Mols). (4 - 8Ls). AS

Wok Café C-4, Dzirnavu 60, tel. (+371) 67 28 28 78,

www.vairaksaules.lv. One of the city’s best pizzerias has looked east for inspiration and opened this trendy wok café. Pick a combination of meat, noodles and sauces to be cooked to order in its open plan kitchen and Asian favourites like dumplings, spring rolls, spicy salads and a good selection of sushi. The walls are covered in photographs of green florae, so it always feels like spring even if it’s snowing outside. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. (5Ls). AS

Bakeries Cadets de Gascogne G-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 8,

tel. (+371) 67 32 01 03. Parlez-vous cholesterol? Expat Bernard Larane’s French bakery brings kilos of buttery pastries to Old Riga, including the closest thing to a Parisian pain au chocolat this side of the Baltic. Fresh bread, homemade pāté, quiches, strong coffee, and fresh-squeezed orange juice also make this boulangerie a favourite retreat. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Also on C-5, Barona 52 (entrance from Ģertrūdes). Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00; C-5, Ģertrūdes 30, tel. (+371) 67 87 62 65. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. NEW

Māja H-3, Merķeļa 17/19 (entrance from Inženieru). Not to be confused with the trendy, celebrity-owned Latvian restaurant on the other side of the river, this Māja is a small bakery, café and eco-product shop where you can relax with a coffee on a comfy couch, order fresh-baked pastries to takeaway or just buy some eco-friendly chocolate bars and rice cakes. Unfortunately its shop front sign says ‘backery’ not ‘bakery.’ Perhaps they’ve never heard of Google, or a dictionary. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Mārtiņa beķereja I-3, Vaļņu 28, tel. (+371) 67 21 33

14. Martin’s Bakery offers a modern, beige environment to enjoy classic Latvian pastries from freshly baked pīrāgi (bacon dumplings) with a variety of different fillings like ham, onions and mushrooms to delicious sweet pastries from fragrant kanēļa maizītes (cinnamon buns) to gooey kafijas maizītes (custard-cream buns). You can order anything it offers to take away, including coffee, or just enjoy a cappuccino or a cup of tea on the spot. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Also on C-4, Marijas 19, tel. (+371) 67 28 71 61; Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. S

Riga In Your Pocket

www.bon-vivant.lv. Solid wood furniture, a cosy atmosphere and assorted Benelux decorations aren’t the only things that make this place an authentic Belgian beer bar. A whole page of the menu is dedicated to steamed mussels, sausages are ordered by the half metre and tasty brews from the Low Countries are served in their proper glasses. The delicious cuisine isn’t cheap, but Europeans expect nothing less from Brussels. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12Ls). AX

Double Coffee I-2, Grēcinieku 11 (entrance from Kungu), tel. (+371) 67 22 31 63, www.doublecoffee. com. Double Coffee not only offers a smoking section, but also a huge selection of delicious Java, tea and real hot chocolate. Sandwiches, breakfast food and, of course, cocktails are all listed on the menu cleverly disguised as a glossy magazine. Unfortunately, you’ll have to light it up and smoke it to attract the attention of the sullen wait staff, even if you’re the only customer there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Also on H-2, Vaļņu 11 (entrance from Kaļķu). Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs; and many other locations. AX

Meta-Kafe D/E-4, Maskavas 12/1 (Spīķeri), tel.

(+371) 67 20 49 93, www.metakafe.lv. Located in a restored brick building behind the Central Market in the upand-coming warehouse district, Meta-Kafe is popular with both arty youngsters sporting blonde dreadlocks and mature Bohemians wearing turtlenecks and blazers. A small menu of affordable international cuisine and a cheap brunch are the main attractions of this industrial space with glazed cement floors and matching tabletops, not to mention a large library of books that have probably never been read. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). A

Osīriss C-4, Barona 31, tel. (+371) 67 24 30 02,

[email protected]. The first of opera director Andrejs Žagars’ many café ventures, and the only one to survive, Osiris found a successful recipe in the mid-1990s and stuck with it. Inexpensive breakfasts, sandwiches, tasty international cuisine and a romantic candle-lit ambience make this place a favourite of local big shots, politicians and intelligentsia so make a reservation for dinner. The only drawback is the horrible iron tables that were obviously created as torture devices for long legs. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (3 - 7Ls). A

Shashlik anyone? When considering the Soviet occupation of Latvia and other republics in the region, one is hard-pressed to find something positive, but we’ve found a single aspect. Close ties between far off lands lead to the discovery of Caucasian cuisine. One of the most beloved dishes is Eastern Europe’s answer to barbecue, the shashlik, which most Westerners know as the shish kebab. In short, if it’s beef, pork, lamb, fish or vegetables cooked on a skewer then it’s a shashlik.

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Restaurants

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Coffee & Cake Café Balanss D-4, Elizabetes 24, www.hotels.tallink.

com. If you’re looking to ‘balanss’ out your diet after an evening of feasting on fatty Latvian cuisine and calorieladen brews you might consider substituting pork knuckle for homemade croissants, pastries, light salads and healthy sandwiches at this small café on the ground floor of the Tallink Hotel Riga. Plenty of coffee, tea and juice are also available as well as a wi-fi connection. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. (1 - 3Ls). ASW NEW

Coffee Inn I-3, Audēju 15, tel. (+371) 27 79 90 91. With

its sky blue walls, lively background music and real leather couches and chairs, Coffee Inn attracts a crowd of pseudotrendy youngsters who resemble the cast of the iconic, yet far-fetched comedy Friends. Huge cookies, cake, quiche and a variety of sandwiches are on offer as well as some of the best coffee in town, although the prices could be more student(and journalist-) friendly. You can also take advantage of free wi-fi while you enjoy your teriyaki turkey wrap. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. SW NEW

Jasa Cafe B-3, Strēlnieku 9, tel. (+371) 29 36 12 57. This cosy little café with worn parquet floors and couches looks like it could also be someone’s living room, with perhaps the exception of the big wooden wine barrel. That’s just there to remind you that Jasa also serves a cheap house wine and sells an eclectic collection of appellations from Germany, New Zealand and Georgia to take with you. You can also order good coffee, tea and even cocktails as well as Valmiermuižas brews in bottles. All takeaway coffees cost a flat 0.80Ls. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A

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Kanēļa konditoreja C-4, Dzirnavu 84 (Berga Bazārs), tel. (+371) 67 21 71 70, www.kanelakonditoreja.lv. The aroma of cinnamon, chocolate and coffee is sure to lure you into this upmarket café, but remember that luxury doesn’t come cheap. The walls are decorated with ads for sweets and liqueurs from the 1930s and the display case of fluffy pastries and rich cakes is guaranteed to have you salivating within seconds of your arrival. It takes an age for the huge sugar crystals to dissolve in your tea, but the Cinnamon Confectioner’s was created with lounging and lingering in mind. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A Riga Black Magic I-2, Kaļķu 10, tel. (+371) 67 22 28 77, www.since1752.lv. If you’d like to discover the mysterious properties of Riga’s national drink, you’d have a hard time finding a better place to sip the black herbal liquor than at Riga Black Magic. Enjoy delicious cake, chocolates and other snacks with coffee, tea or one of its special cocktails including the Black Mojito. The interior of wooden furniture and exposed brick walls evokes the 18th-century when Balzams was first concocted. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. A NEW

Spot H-1, Jauniela 19, tel. (+371) 26 20 09 50. This tiny

bright blue and brown coffee bar and cocktail lounge offers an interior of stylish couches and an exposed brick wall with a medieval fresco fragment as well as views of Riga Cathedral’s ancient gravestones across the street. Order coffee, affordable alcoholic drinks or one of its many flavours of homemade ice cream including black currant, raspberry and even sea buckthorn, which tastes much better than it sounds. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A

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Restaurants Breakfast

Cheap & Quick

Bergs Restaurant C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga

pasāža), tel. (+371) 67 10 56 47, www.fazer.com. The Fazer family opened their first confectionary in Helsinki over 100 years ago and since then their company has branched out into several food businesses including budget catering under the Amica brand. Choose from two cafeterias around Old Riga (one under the Town Hall and one next to the National Theatre) for tasty, inexpensive breakfasts or lunches. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at G-1, Kronvalda bulv. 1a, tel. (+371) 67 22 52 23. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (1 - 3Ls).

bazārs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 57, www.hotelbergs. lv. This design hotel’s stylish restaurant offers a daily à la carte breakfast from 07:30 - 11:00. QOpen 07:30 - 11:00. AW Boulangerie Bonjour G-1, Jēkaba 20/22, tel. (+371) 67 32 57 07, www.boulangeriebonjour.lv. This French patisserie serves delicious pastries, cakes, quiche and panini not to mention tea, juice and coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at H-2, Tirgoņu 4. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. (1 - 3Ls). AW Cadets de Gascogne (Franču Maiznīca) G-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 8 (Jēkaba arkāde), tel. (+371) 67 32 01 03. Fresh bread and pastries, coffee, tea and juice. Very French indeed. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Also on C-5, Barona 52 (entrance from Ģertrūdes). Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. GS Harry Morgan B-4, Dzirnavu 30 (entrance from Antonijas), tel. (+371) 67 33 10 42, www.harrymorgan.lv. American pancakes with maple syrup, real eggs Benedict, omelettes and other breakfast served all day. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A Osīriss C-4, Barona 31, tel. (+371) 67 24 30 02, [email protected]. Osiris specialises in omelettes but it also serves bacon and egg sandwiches, pancakes and even oatmeal. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. A Raibais Balodis I-2, Kalēju 9/11 (Konventa sēta), tel. (+371) 67 08 75 80. You can take advantage of this Old Riga hotel’s early breakfast buffet. QOpen 06:30 - 10:30. A Restaurant Elements D-4, Elizabetes 24, tel. (+371) 67 09 97 60, www.hotels.tallink.com. Take advantage of a complete breakfast buffet for around 7Ls or eggs cooked to order in the open-plan grill area. QOpen 06:30 - 10:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. Tinto C-4, Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 28 90 85. This stylish wine bar is also open for breakfast early in the morning. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A

Central Asian Uzbekistāna B-5, Bruņinieku 33, tel. (+371) 67 29 22

70, www.uzbekistana.lv. A visit to Uzbekistan is like a trip to Samarkand or Tashkent but without the heat. Its whitewashed walls are decorated with beautiful ceramic plates, traditional tubeteika hats and paintings of Silk Road caravans, while the floor is covered with Central Asian and near eastern carpets. Enjoy delicious shurpas (soups), hot non (bread), spicy manti (meat dumplings) and shashliks (grilled meat) galore. You can also eat at its cheaper bistro to the left. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (4 - 8Ls). AS

Varzob J-2, Rātslaukums 1 (entrance from Mazā Jauni-

ela), tel. (+371) 67 22 41 80. A Google search reveals that Varzob is a town in Tajikistan and not much else. This Varzob happens to be a tiny café at the back end of the modern addition to the Town Hall that serves delicious Central Asian cuisine like lagman (tomato, noodle and lamb soup) with fresh non (bread) for cheap, not to mention very affordable Užavas beer on draught. The food and drink is also usually served by its friendly owner who always greets his patrons with a smile. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 13:00 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (2 - 4Ls). A

Riga In Your Pocket

Amica Café I-1/2, Rātslaukums 1 (entrance from Rātes

Pelmeņi XL I-2, Kaļķu 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 27 28, www. xlpelmeni.lv. As the name suggests, it offers ‘extra large’ portions of chicken, vegetarian, pork, lamb or cheese pelmeņi (Russian ravioli) for ‘extra small’ prices. Also available are two kinds of soups and potato-based salads. Do as the locals do and wash it down with a beer or, if you haven’t had enough booze at 03:00, an XL shot of Moskovskaya vodka. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. Also at I-3, Audēju 16 (entrance from Vaļņu). Open 10:00 - 22:00; D-4, Stacijas 2 (train station). (2Ls). S

Šefpavārs Vilhelms H-2, Šķūņu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 82

14. Help yourself to cheese, meat, potato, banana or plain pancakes, lash them with sour cream or a variety of jams and gobble them down seated between walls made to look like lumpy pancake batter. We wonder what weird incident prompted the management to put the ‘no shower’ and ‘no horses’ signs on the window. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (2 - 4Ls).

Chinese Lielais Ķīnas Mūris (Great Wall of China) F-3,

Valdemāra 21 (Valdemāra centrs), tel. (+371) 67 24 00 49. Because the food is just a few degrees shy of true Chinese, despite its Chinese owners, imported Asian music videos and the red lanterns help to create that Far Eastern feeling. A good budget buffet is on until the evening on weekdays with half and full servings available, which is no doubt why it’s almost always packed at lunchtime. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (3 - 6Ls). AS

Old Shanghai A-5, Valdemāra 123, tel. (+371) 67 37 23

37, www.oldshanghai.lv. Unlike Honkonga, which is owned by the same people, Old Shanghai has broken away from the traditional décor of red lanterns and Chinese landscape paintings, choosing instead a modern grey, minimalist interior whose chief decoration is the cooked ducks hanging in the open-plan kitchen behind a glass partition. Try delicious dishes like shark soup, steamed scallops in garlic sauce or curry rolls, but be prepared to part with plenty of your hardearned yuan. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (8 - 12Ls). A

Czech Sveiks, Šveik! (Hello Švejk!) B-5, Stabu 23, tel. (+371) 67 31 46 74, www.svejk.lv. Not unlike the scores of other bars dedicated to Jaroslav Hašek’s classic character the Good Soldier Švejk that dot the Bohemian countryside, this one has a cosy atmosphere of solid oak tables and exposed brick walls, not to mention its most important feature - great beer. Užavas, Bauskas and Staropramen are on draught, cheap Baltic-Czech cuisine is on the menu and the pretty wait staff refuse to smile, just like in Prague! Live accordion music at the weekend. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). AE

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Restaurants Doughnut shops Ze Donats (The Donuts) F-3, Valdemāra 18, tel. (+371)

67 33 23 31, www.virtulis.lv. Not quite Dunkin Donuts, but pretty darn close. This stylish brown and white doughnut shop offers friendly wait staff, free wireless internet access and even a chillout room with couches and a flat screen TV, not to mention delicious doughnuts for only 0.20 - 0.25Ls each! Chow down on Boston creams, glazed and dozens of other sweet concoctions including the green Pistachio Shrek! Coffee, tea and huge brownies are also on offer. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. SW

Fast food Hesburger I-2, Šķūņu 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 16 22, www.

hesburger.lv. It was only a matter of time before Finland’s most popular fast food chain headed south and reached Riga’s shores. Not surprisingly, its menu is not unlike that offered at the golden arches, still many Scandinavians contend that the burgers are bigger, better and juicier and we happen to agree. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 07:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (1 - 4Ls). AS

McDonald’s H-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 18, tel. (+371) 67 22 63 46. America’s favourite clown is still the king of fast food in Riga. With two locations in the centre of Riga you won’t have to go far to order a Big Mac, chicken McNuggets or strawberry milkshake. Although the Latvian golden arches don’t offer proper breakfast food as in other countries, its children’s ‘happy meals’ are a good bargain. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Also at D-4, Merķeļa 1, tel. (+371) 67 21 23 56. Open 08:00 - 24:00; and other locations. AW

French Boulangerie Bonjour G-1, Jēkaba 20/22, tel. (+371)

67 32 57 07, www.boulangeriebonjour.lv. You can’t get much more authentic than this cosy, yellow patisserie. From the early morning hours its French pastry chef serves up delicious quiche, cakes, salads, a soupe du jour and panini smothered in melted fromage. You can take your pastries and coffee to the balcony upstairs for more privacy or sit on the ground floor under the watchful gaze of Gérard Depardieu whose nosy countenance rests on a shelf like a shrine to the legendary actor. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at H-2, Tirgoņu 4. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. (1 - 3Ls). ASW

Cadets de Gascogne (Franču Maiznīca) G-2, Z.A.

Meierovica bulv. 8 (Jēkaba arkāde), tel. (+371) 67 32 01 03, www.cadets.lv. Parlez-vous cholesterol? Expat Bernard Larane’s French bakery brings kilos of buttery pastries to Old Riga, including the closest thing to a Parisian pain au chocolat this side of the Baltic. Fresh bread, homemade pāté, quiches, strong coffee, and real orange juice also make this boulangerie a favourite retreat. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Also on C-5, Barona 52 (entrance from Ģertrūdes). Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Le Paon Bleu H-2, Tirgoņu 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 10 04.

After opening two successful boulangeries in Old Riga chef Gilles Coupeau has turned his attention to traditional French cuisine at the Blue Peacock where you can taste anything from delicious fois gras, frogs’ legs and onion soup to mains like duck breast cooked in crème de cassis. Naturally, you can order plenty of French wine hand selected by the chef in this elegant restaurant with parquet floors, yellow walls, blue glass lamps and excellent views of Cathedral Square. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (8 - 12Ls). A

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Home delivery Čili Pica Tel. (+371) 1822, www.cili.lv. Charge: Free

in Old Riga or 1Ls within Riga. Nearly 50 different pizzas. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Domino Pizza Tel. (+371) 80 00 31 31, www. dominopizza.lv. Delivery charge: free for orders over 5Ls. Not to be confused with the American chain of pizzerias. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Gan Bei Tel. (+371) 67 22 52 25, www.ganbei.lv. Charge: 2Ls or free for orders over 15Ls. Delicious Asian and Indian food from the restaurants Gan Bei and Thali. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. LIDO Tel. (+371) 67 22 13 18/(+371) 67 21 73 32, www.lido.lv. Charge: 1.50 - 3.50Ls for delivery depending on location. LIDO provides a full Latvian menu of shashliks, gyros, kotletes (greasy meatballs) and even pizza. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Pizza Lulū Tel. (+371) 80 00 58 58, www.lulu.lv. Delivery free of charge. English spoken. You can also order online at www.lulu.lv. Big New York-style pizzas and salads. Q Open 24hrs. A Sushi Point Tel. (+371) 67 00 78 74, www.sushipoint.lv. Charge: 2 - 3Ls or free of charge for orders over 10 or 15Ls, depending on location. Sushi, stir fries and even pizza delivered to your door from the Kabuki restaurant chain. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Vairāk Saules Tel. (+371) 80 00 90 80, www. vairaksaules.lv. Charge: 2Ls within the centre, Old Riga and Pārdaugava. Order soups, salads, sushi, international dishes, Asian cuisine or thin crust pizzas to your door by phone, skype (vairak.saules) or internet. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

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Restaurants Indian Indian Raja I-2, Vecpilsētas 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 16 17,

www.indianraja.lv. All dishes, like the tandoori and curry, are so veritably Indian, it’s almost overwhelming. This is hardly Baltic-modified cuisine, which is why the bill won’t be small, but will reflect one of the best dining investments in the city. Although many of them have Indo European roots, most locals still shy away, which means you, expats and tourists, will have the peaceful interior all to yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Also at I-2, Skārņu 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 32 40. (8 - 10Ls). AS

Indian Tikka House (Paddy Whelan’s) I-2,

Grēcinieku 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50www.pub.lv. Its location inside Riga’s landmark Irish pub may seem strange at first, but there might just be a spark of genius here. Who wouldn’t want to watch a football match with a cold beer and a chicken tikka masala with a side of freshly baked naan? Start with mouth-watering onion bhajias, pakoras and samosas and move on to classic Indian main dishes cooked in a real tandoor. Indian food is served during the hours that we have listed as opening times. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (4 - 7Ls). AXS

International 1221 I-1, Jauniela 16, tel. (+371) 67 22 01 71. If you

Georgian Pirosmani D-4, Maskavas 6, tel. (+371) 67 21 52 44.

Named after one of Georgia’s most revered painters, Niko Pirosmani, this rustically decorated restaurant located in a renovated warehouse beyond the Central Market also displays several reproductions of the starving artist’s colourful paintings of bearded men in wool hats feasting. The food is delicious and authentic from the savoury lamb stew to the hinkali (spicy meat dumplings), which are each nearly the size of a fist. The mountain nation’s best wine’s are also on offer, but you might want to order a whole bottle, and some traditional bread, as the chefs take their time preparing each meal. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 7Ls).

German Knaipe C-4/5, Blaumaņa 38/40 (in the courtyard),

tel. (+371) 67 77 05 86, www.knaipe.lv. Once upon a time three Latvians met at a school in Münster, Germany and 20 years later they opened a real German kneipe, or pub, in Riga spelled Knaipe so the locals would pronounce it correctly. Drink delicious Paulaner helles, hefe-weizen or märzen brews on draught and eat delicious Schweine Haxe (pork leg) served with a generous side of Pommes mit Mayo (fries with mayonnaise). German wines are also available and you can watch a Bundesliga match inside when it gets cold. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 6Ls). A

Hungry for more? riga.inyourpocket.com Riga In Your Pocket

see a beautiful blue medieval building with cows grazing on its façade you haven’t had too many strong Latvian beers, but rather found a great restaurant that puts one in mind of an upmarket country tavern if there is such a thing. You can order huge portions of inexpensive Latvian cuisine like blood sausage with bacon and eggs or sour kraut soup with pork ribs and potatoes. More expensive international cuisine like lamb chops is also on offer as well as cheap Lāčplēsis beer on draught. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 10Ls). AI

4 Rooms I-2, Meistaru 23, tel. (+371) 67 22 56 86,

www.4rooms.lv. The European cuisine is tasty and predictably expensive given its location, but the best reason to come here is the interior design, which looks like it was ripped from the pages of Architectural Digest. The service can be excruciatingly slow, but the exposed medieval brick, ancient oak beams and original floor fragments under glass in this historic building will give you plenty to look at while you wait. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 01:00. (8 - 16Ls). A

Bestsellers B-4, Dzirnavu 33 (Albert Hotel), tel. (+371)

67 33 17 17, www.alberthotel.lv. Although this stylish hotel restaurant can accommodate hundreds of diners, its warm autumnal colours create a cosy atmosphere despite all of the space. The small selection of international food is by no means unique, but the menu itself certainly is. In keeping with its literary theme, each patron is given a pen and asked to place a check mark next to the dishes he would like to order. A daily breakfast buffet and lunch special are also available. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). A NEW

Botanica Café B-3/4, Antonijas 9, tel. (+371) 67 33 49

33. This trendy restaurant offers dark hardwood floors, greyish-brown walls, a vaulted brick ceiling painted white and light wooden furniture and a small ever-changing menu of whatever’s fresh that week including herbs from its own greenhouse room on the premises. The chef has worked and studied at prestigious European eating establishments with Michelin stars, but thankfully the food and drink here won’t require a platinum card. Fresh cut flowers and free bread and table water are among its other perks. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (3 - 7Ls). A

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Restaurants

Charlestons C-5, Blaumaņa 38/40, tel. (+371) 67 77

Esplanāde F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson BLU Hotel

05 72, www.charlestons.lv. Charlestons is impossible to label. It’s European, yet has a decidedly North American feel to it. The interior, the quality of the cuisine and the professional service scream upmarket restaurant, yet the atmosphere is incredibly laid back and the prices are reasonable. What’s certain is that you’re guaranteed excellent international food from the Jack Daniels pork chop to the teriyaki salmon. A separate bar is also available in front if you just want to have a drink and watch some TV or the fish in the aquarium. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00. (5 - 10Ls). ASW

Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 11, www.radissonblu. com/latvijahotel-riga. If you think that Esplanāde is just another hotel restaurant then guess again. The interior is neutral and can accommodate hundreds of tourists, but the cuisine it serves is simply fantastic. Start with the Italian antipasti platter and move on to delicious mains as diverse as baked sea bass and ostrich fillet in a pomegranate Shiraz sauce. A lunch and dinner buffet as well as a children’s game room are also available. Also offers a daily breakfast buffet from 07:00 - 10:30. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (8 - 14Ls). TA

Cream Café F-3, Dzirnavu 55, tel. (+371) 67 28 40 74,

Fazenda B/C-4, Baznīcas 14, tel. (+371) 67 24 08 09.

C.U.T. C-4, Elizabetes 73 (Radisson BLU Elizabete

Fazer Café & Restaurant I-3, 13. janvāra 8 (Stock-

www.creamcafe.lv. Not unlike the cafés you find in Munich and other Western European cities, Cream Café serves breakfast food like oatmeal and omelettes in the morning, local and European cuisine for lunch and dinner and cocktails and music in the evenings. Take a seat at one of the stylish couches facing the long bar on the ground floor or duck down into the cellar for a bit more privacy. DJs spin dance tunes for clubbers at the weekend. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 6Ls). A Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 78 55 77, www.radissonblu. com/elizabetehotel-riga. This upmarket restaurant located on the ground floor of the Radisson BLU Elizabete Hotel specialises in grilled cuisine from tuna steaks and salmon to beef tenderloin imported from the South American pampas. You can also enjoy a light lunch of Thai spiced sea scallops or veal carpaccio in its fantastic open courtyard. A wide selection of new and old world wines is also available as well as a daily breakfast buffet from 07:00 - 10:30. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (6 - 12Ls). AW

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Fazenda has come up with a unique dining concept. It offers a bakery, restaurant and farmers’ market in a beautifully restored 19th-century wooden building that includes original tile fireplaces, floral print wallpaper and plenty of fresh cut flowers. The nearly Provençal-style interior and its refined, yet affordable menu of gourmet sandwiches, salads and seasonal main courses are all very popular with the local ladies who lunch, so be prepared to raise your pinkie when you take a sip of tea. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 6Ls). A mann - 4th floor), tel. (+371) 67 21 01 57, www.fazer. com. This trendy cafeteria on the top floor of the Stockmann department store offers white walls, sleek stainless steel and light Scandinavian wood furnishings not to mention gourmet sandwiches, tasty soups and salads as well as stir fries, pastas and pancakes cooked to order. It’s also good place to stop for coffee, a glass of wine, a piece of cake and excellent views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Also at Krasta 46 (Mols shopping centre - ground floor), tel. (+371) 67 03 02 05. (3 - 5Ls). AS

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Restaurants

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Gutenbergs H-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 81

40 90, www.gutenbergs.eu. Now that its top-floor terrace is closed for the season, you can take the steps down to Hotel Gutenbergs’ cosy cellar restaurant. In keeping with the Johannes Gutenberg theme, the menu offers international cuisine as well as dishes that were once popular with Riga’s pre-war Germanic population like oxtail soup or cream of white asparagus or crispy catfish fillets. A good wine selection is also available. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (8 - 15Ls). AEX

Harry Morgan B-4, Dzirnavu 30, tel. (+371) 67 33

Neiburgs I-1, Jauniela 25/27, tel. (+371) 67 11 55 44,

www.neiburgshotel.com. One of Riga’s finest art nouveau buildings has finally been renovated and its ground floor is now home to a stylish restaurant offering both international and Latvian-style food for reasonable prices. Inside you’ll find grey walls covered by periodic art exhibitions, light parquet floors and spider-like chandeliers made from black reading lamps. Order salads, pasta, Australian steaks, Scottish salmon, local trout, huge turkey burgers or inexpensive lunch specials in a refined setting in Old Riga. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 10Ls). A

10 42, www.harrymorgan.lv. The story goes that Harry Morgan opened his first New York-style deli in London in 1948 and since then it’s become a landmark establishment. History aside, we’re just happy that Riga finally has a bona fide breakfast restaurant where you can order American pancakes with maple syrup, eggs Benedict or a genuine full English. You can also try such classics as gefilte fish, roast beef sandwiches and chopped liver in two sleek and modern dining rooms or on the summer terrace. Great desserts like carrot cake and apple strudel are also available. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). A

Old City Hotel Restaurant I-2/3, Teātra 10, tel.

NEW

Olive C-5, Ģertrūdes 56, tel. (+371) 27 04 30 10. At first

Just I-1, 11.novembra krastmala 17, tel. (+371) 29 55 46 14, www.justbar.lv. At night, and especially at the weekend, this stylish brown and beige space with a central rectangular bar caters to the cocktail crowd, but during the day it offers a great two-course business lunch for about 3Ls attracting both tourists and locals alike. Although the sandwiches and salads are quite affordable, 4Ls for a mixed drink is just a little too pricey for us. In the summer a huge terrace with hammocks and views of the nearby river is available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu 10:00 - 03:00, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. A

Kontakts H-2, Torņa 4-IIIC (Jēkaba kazarmas), tel. (+371) 67 32 33 60. After years of working at some of Riga’s best bars and pubs, two Latvian women decided to open their own place in a cosy Old Riga cellar in the Jacob’s Barracks. Unlike many of their trendy (and pricey) neighbours, Kontakts serves an inexpensive menu of traditional Latvian food like grey peas as well as a good grill menu that includes salmon and steaks. Flat screen TVs for sports, a novuss table (Latvian billiards), glasses of Cēsu beer for 1.50Ls and a buy one get one free happy hour are also major draws. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (3 - 5Ls). A

Lidojošā Varde (The Flying Frog) B-3, Elizabetes

31a, tel. (+371) 67 32 11 84, www.flying-frog.lv. The Frog has a fresh coat of paint, but it’s basically still the same expat hang out it’s always been. This three-roomed cellar is filled with more than just frogs - though there are lots of them, even in the bathrooms. Eat a big burger, chow on tasty chicken wings, or go healthy with grilled dishes and salads. Although Latvian beer is on draught you can also order a refreshing pint of Guinness. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). AX

Merlin D/E-4, Maskavas 4 (Spīķeri), tel. (+371) 27 79 19

10. Housed in a renovated brick warehouse behind the Central Market, Merlin offers a red semi-circular bar and a summer terrace on the ground floor and a cosier top floor restaurant that includes original ceiling timbers, comfy couches and even a hammock in the corner in case you’ve had one unfiltered Cēsu lager too many. Other Cēsu brews are on draught as well as nearly 50 bottled beers from around the globe. International cuisine from steamed mussels and osso buco to Caesar salads and steaks can also be had here, but bear in mind that side dishes cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 9Ls). A

Riga In Your Pocket

(+371) 67 35 60 60, www.oldcityhotel.lv. Just beyond the bar area in the lobby of this Old Riga design hotel you’ll find an upmarket restaurant with a stylish, yet simple interior of brown walls accented with photos of the Latvian capital’s old town. Chef Andis Aldersons has created a varied menu of new interpretations of classic dishes including ostrich carpaccio to start and mains such as grilled beef fillet with forest mushroom ragout, Yorkshire pudding and green pepper sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (6 - 10Ls). A NEW

this black and white café/club seems to be dominated by a curvy, winding bar covered with painted olive branches, but upon further inspection an even larger room with a stage is available in the back. Although the place has an overwhelming cocktail lounge vibe, it also has a full menu of typical international staples from Caesar salads and pastas to steaks and salmon fillets. The girl behind the bar had a tough time pouring a pint so you might want to stick to mixed drinks. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls).

Raibais Balodis (Colourful Dove) I-2, Kalēju 9/11

(Konventa sēta), tel. (+371) 67 08 75 80. Although the interior mainly consists of subtle beiges and blues, its designation as ‘colourful’ comes in the form of a wide selection of fresh flowers scattered about the place. International cuisine from venison to vegetarian food can be had here and its seasonal specials, like autumn pumpkin soup with duck meat, should not be missed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (6 - 10Ls). A RC

Restaurant Elements D-4, Elizabetes 24, tel. (+371)

67 09 97 60, www.hotels.tallink.com. This stylish silver, brown and white restaurant on the ground floor of the Tallink Hotel Riga serves a variety of healthy international cuisine prepared with local ingredients when possible. It also boasts the only open-plan grill bar in Riga and offers a special treat for adventurous diners. A hot volcanic rock is brought to your table and you can cook any meat of your choosing on it under the supervision of your server. A breakfast buffet and affordably priced lunch special are also available. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). PTAXW

Tourist-friendly symbol It’s no secret that Riga has received a lot of bad press in recent months regarding tourist scams at local bars and clubs. In response, the Latvian Hotel and Restaurant Association has devised a system to help Riga’s visitors choose safe, reliable cafés, pubs and clubs. In short, if you see the above symbol on the door or window of an establishment, it means that it’s been officially sanctioned by the association as a good place to spend your time and money.

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Restaurants

Reykjavik C-2, Ķīpsalas 20 (Hotel Islande), tel. (+371)

67 60 80 00, www.islandehotel.lv. Its minimalist, Scandinavian-style interior of hardwood floors and subtle grey and white tones is only occasionally broken up by illuminated photographs of melting glaciers and rosy arctic sunsets. Icelandic cuisine is curiously absent from the international menu, but perhaps we should be thankful for small mercies. Order anything from healthy salads to steaks and grilled salmon. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30; 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:30. (6 - 10Ls). A

Salt ‘n’ Pepper I-1, Palasta 10, tel. (+371) 67 22 11

42. Originality and good taste are in great abundance in this laid-back, almost American-style restaurant/bar behind town hall. Take advantage of the relatively inexpensive international dishes on its menu or, if you’re in the mood to pound some brews without the middleman, reserve the ‘drinking table’ inside that has its own beer tap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (3 - 6Ls). A

Irish Paddy Whelan’s Irish Pub & Spor ts Bar I-2,

Grēcinieku 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50, [email protected], www.pub.lv. Since its opening in 1995, Riga’s first Irish pub has been an expat favourite. With a wide variety of foreign and domestic beers on draught, a classic Hibernian interior and more flat screen TVs showing live sports than you can shake a shillelagh at, Paddy’s has loads to offer a thirsty football fan. In addition to its usual offering of pub grub, a new menu of authentic Indian cuisine has been added to its repertoire for those craving a delicious chicken tikka masala or maybe a samosa starter. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:00. (3 - 6Ls). AEXS

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Italian 1739 I-2, Skārņu 6, tel. (+371) 67 21 13 98. Retreat

from the bustle of street of vendors and head into a historic house where tranquillity rules. Specialities like lasagne and gnocchi will make you wish you had an Italian grandmother to prepare them for you all the time. The congenial wait staff is much less intrusive than she would be, and won’t tell you that you look too thin. Main courses will definitely cost you, but cheaper lunch specials are also available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (7 - 15Ls). A RC

Monterosso H-2, Vaļņu 9, tel. (+371) 67 50 71 70, www.monterosso.lv. There are few better places to go for upmarket Italian dining in Riga than Monterosso. Just ask its Italian patrons. Pass the bronze panthers by the stairs and admire the old world atmosphere of dark wood panelling and gilt ceilings. The thin-crust pizzas are among the best in the city and delicious mains like sea bass with fresh tomato salad or penne pasta with lobster and cream sauce won’t disappoint. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10 - 20Ls). A

Murales C-4, Dzirnavu 84 (Berga Bazārs), tel. (+371)

67 28 20 55, www.murales.lv. Apparently, the town of Orgosolo in the Barbagia region of Sardinia is famous for its wall murals (murales), so it’s not surprising that this Sardinian restaurant has some interesting wall art of its own. Order a delicious coffee, a glass of wine or perhaps a bottle of Peroni beer while waiting for dozens of different pizzas, calzones, salads or pastas at this laid-back pizzeria. Breakfast like fried eggs with Parma ham is available as well as main courses such as pesce al cartoccio (rainbow trout stuffed with tomatoes and olives served with Sardinian potatoes). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (3 - 7Ls). AW

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Restaurants Rossini F-2, Pumpura 6, tel. (+371) 67 33 44 97, www.

rossini.lv. Smartly dressed wait staff greet you with genuine smiles as you enter this red brick cellar in the embassy district decorated with photos of churches, wineries and ancient architecture from all around the Apennine Peninsula. All of the usual suspects are available including Italian soups, salads, pastas and mains as well as a decent selection of thin crust pizzas. A good wine list is also on offer not to mention free table water - a true novelty in Riga. Not the place to go out with the guys, it’s good for a business lunch or a date with the missus. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). A

Trattoria del Popolo I-2/3, Jāņa 8, tel. (+371) 67 35 05 59, www.delpopolo.lv. At first it wooed us with its low prices and authentic food. But this tastefully decorated restaurant serving homemade Italian pastas, salads, pizzas and main courses in an historic house in Old Riga has jacked up the prices of most of its cuisine, which is disappointing. At least the friendly wait staff still offer you bread, olives and table water for free - a revolutionary concept in Riga. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 6Ls). A

Un Momento C-5, Čaka 58 (entrance from Bruņinieku),

Coming soon Livonija H-2, Meistaru 21. Livonia is the ancient name

of what is now Latvia and Estonia and in November a new restaurant with this name will open in a medieval cellar next to the Small Guild just off of Līvu Square. The menu will specialise in traditional Latvian and European cuisine and the interior will no doubt reflect its ancient origins. Q A

Planet Sushi I-2, Šķūņu 16, tel. (+371) 67 22 38 55,

www.rrg.lv. The uninspired, corporate-sounding name may be a little hard to swallow, but the Japanese food will definitely please your palate and the female wait staff dressed in kimono are also nothing to sneeze at. Peruse the user-friendly, photo-laden menu and enjoy tempura and teas, sashimi and sushi, sabu sabu, business lunches and even whiskey and beer from the land of the rising sun. Its location next to Cathedral Square is an added bonus. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). A

tel. (+371) 67 27 88 70. One of Riga’s gastronomic surprises can be found in a section of town that seldom produces an establishment worthy of a review. Sparsely decorated with wine barrels and dried flowers, Un Momento is a jack of all trades serving up breakfast, panini, antipasti, pasta, meat and seafood dishes and a selection of pizzas. A pleasant, informal atmosphere, attentive service with a smile and comfortable chairs and couches will no doubt convince you to linger longer than one moment. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 6Ls). A

Samurajs I-2, Kaļķu 2 (entrance from Kungu), tel.

Japanese

Tokyo City H-3, Barona 2, tel. (+371) 67 22 77 64.

Kabuki C-4, Barona 14 (entrance from Elizabetes), tel. (+371) 67 28 20 52. This trendy sushi bar and Japanese restaurant is so chic it could easily hold its own in San Francisco or New York. Sashimi, maki and nigiri sushi as well as hand rolls are all available as are rice noodle dishes, soups and main courses. The undecided can grab a seat in the back and pick up whatever catches their fancy as it passes by on the conveyor belt. For something hot and spicy on a cold day, try the effervescent ginger tea. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Also on I-3, Audēju 14, tel. (+371) 67 35 96 63. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12Ls). AS

Halloween Although Halloween is a fairly new holiday to Latvians, it’s not much of a stretch for locals to dress up in all kinds of crazy costumes. In fact they’ve been doing it for centuries. Once the hard chores associated with the fall harvest were completed ancient Latvians had more time on their hands. To keep themselves busy and to drive away evil spirits they dressed up as animals and mythical figures during the autumn months and visited their neighbours singing and dancing the whole way. You probably won’t see much of this in the Latvian capital, but if you’re up for a Halloween party then the bars of Old Riga are your best bet, especially on Saturday, October 30.

Riga In Your Pocket

(+371) 67 50 31 42. The Samurai’s sword has grown a little rusty over the years. But even though the beautiful waitresses dressed in kimono may have forgotten how to smile and the kitchen may be missing a thing or two from the menu, thankfully, the food is still fantastic. Delicious ramen soups, sushi, sashimi, tempura, teriyaki and other dishes are all recommended and the bright interior decorated with ceramic samurai and Japanese landscape paintings is warm and inviting. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (6 - 10Ls). A Although the sleek, Japanese minimalist interior and the wait staff in pseudo-kimono lend this restaurant a more formal feel, comfortable couches and flat screen TVs showing football and hockey games instantly make one want to relax and lounge about. Traditional sushi, sashimi and hot main courses are not exactly for the budget-minded, but a kids’ menu and 3.90Ls business lunch certainly are. In fact, cocktails and draught Valmiermuižas beer are surprisingly inexpensive, so kampai! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. (4 - 10Ls). A

Jewish Café Lehaim C-4, Skolas 6 (entrance from Dzirnavu),

tel. (+371) 67 28 02 35. Located around the corner from the Jewish museum this small café may lack atmosphere, but all of the food it serves is kosher. Soups, chicken and fish dishes and cheap pita with falafel sandwiches can be had, as well as Jewish souvenirs, books and press. The menu isn’t available in Hebrew, but it is written in English. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 until sunset for the Sabbath. Closed Sat. (3Ls). XS

Menora B-5, A.Briāna 10, tel. (+371) 67 49 57 27,

www.menora.lv. As far as we can tell, this is one of only two Jewish restaurants in Riga and although it’s a bit of a hike from Old Riga, if you’re into either Eastern European or Israeli-Hebrew cuisine, then look no further than Menorah. You can order anything from such classics as gefilte fish, falafel, latkes and hummus to local Slavic favourites like soļanka soup. Israeli wines are also on offer, but sadly no Maccabee beer, only Becks or Stella Artois in bottles. It offers plenty of vodka, though. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. (3 - 7Ls).

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Restaurants

Kebabs Cyprus Kebab House I-2, Kaļķu 2 (entrance from

Kungu), tel. (+371) 20 33 89 89. Not just a run of the mill kebab joint with standing room only, the Cyprus Kebab House offers plenty of big, clunky wooden tables and chairs and warm, red and brown walls. You can order a variety of kebabs with different fillings, including a good döner, and wash it down with a soft drink or a beer. Although the dürüm kebab could use some more meat and heat, it’s cheap and so big that it resembles a rolled up newspaper. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. (2 - 4Ls). S NEW

Dagira I-2, Grēcinieku 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 11 73.

Aquamarine and orange walls are pretty much the only kind of decoration you’ll find at this small kebab shop that serves up a cheap durum kebab lunch that includes fries and a drink for 2.30Ls. Although filling, the food is hardly worth getting excited about, but the girl behind the counter was friendly and even tried to explain what a zapekanka sandwich is, which is no mean feat. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (1 - 3Ls). S

Food Box F-2, Antonijas 6a (entrance from Pumpura),

tel. (+371) 29 11 33 93. After years of searching for a great kebab in Riga, we’ve finally found one at Food Box. This small, casual eatery offers delicious yet inexpensive döner kebabs, falafel and exotic pide (a ‘pizza’ of sorts) served by a young Turkish entrepreneur. The only drawback seems to be the crowds at lunchtime. The hot sauce here is also refreshingly spicy and not toned down for local palates like at other kebab joints. QOpen 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Also at C-4/5, Barona 31 (entrance from Lāčplēša). Open 11:30 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (2 - 4Ls). S

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Kebabs Fix C-4, Brīvības 62, tel. (+371) 67 28 81 81,

www.kebabs.lv. Once a lone kebab shop on the fringe of civilisation, Kebabs Fix has opened up other locations around town to satisfy a growing demand for cheap, sloppy food. Take your pick of kebabs and veggie falafel with a salad and fries, or go with the Middle Eastern appetisers. Although not exactly authentic, the food is cheap and filling. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also on D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo). Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00; and at Alfa, Olympia and Domina shopping centres. (2 - 4Ls). SW

TurKebab I-3, Vaļņu 26, turkebab.com. Red conical lamps with black tassels hang from the ceiling like giant fezzes, colour photos of whirling dervishes and blue-tiled mosques adorn the walls and Turkish pop music provides the soundtrack for this popular kebab shop on two floors. Pizza by the slice, falafel and baklava are all on the menu but most people come for the chicken or beef kebabs, which are definitely tasty, but, in our humble opinion, a bit on the small side. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (2 - 4Ls). ASW

Korean Soraksans H-1, Miesnieku 12, tel. (+371) 67 22 90 68,

www.soraksans.lv. Nealrly everything about this authentic restaurant, from its rustic interior decorated with traditional masks and paper lanterns to the delicious cuisine, is fantastic. Order the infamous kim chi, guaranteed to put hairs on your chest, or one of the many savoury meat dishes served in sizzling skillets or red-hot ceramic pots. You can also throw caution to the wind and cook your own meal at the table. We recommend the posotgogipokom which tastes much better than it sounds. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). A

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Restaurants Food & Curio bazaar Buy anything from fresh seasonal produce and local delicasies like rye bread baked on maple leaves (see photo) to antiques, vintage clothing and Soviet memorabilia at the Berga Bazārs open market twice every month. You can also taste delicious organic food prepared by chefs from some of Riga’s best restaurants. Visit the bazaar from 09:00 - 15:00 at Elizabetes 83/85 every second and fourth Saturday of the month.

Latvian With nearly 800 years of domination by a variety of foreign powers you’d think that Latvia would have an interesting and diverse culinary tradition. However, when one bears in mind that Poles, Swedes, Germans and Russians once ruled the roost, it’s no surprise that most local cuisine consists of pork, potatoes and sour kraut served with a generous sprinkling of dill.

Alus Ordenis H-3, Raiņa 15, tel. (+371) 67 81 41 90,

www.alusordenis.lv. Although the food is a bit pricey for Latvian cuisine, the menu does offer some hard-to-find local dishes like cūku pupas (broad beans in butter sauce), fried herring, boiled pig’s feet and ‘bulls’ glands.’ All of the standard pork ribs, steaks and other artery clogging delicacies are also served in this charming brick cellar as well as tasty brews in big ceramic mugs. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. (3 - 7Ls). AX

Alus Sēta I-2, Tirgoņu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 24 31, www.

lido.lv. The most central of the Lido peoples’ Latvian theme restaurants has a buffet where you order your chicken or pork shashlik and scoop up heaps of potatoes, Latvian grey peas, sour cream and salad. Unfortunately, the annoyingly long queues of hungry tourists have convinced its owners to raise its prices substantially. Have a delicious Užavas draught beer or home-brewed LIDO ale while you wait. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 7Ls). XS

Dzirnavas (The Mill) C-4, Dzirnavu 76, tel. (+371) 67

28 62 04, www.lido.lv. Alus sēta’s sister restaurant is similar, but bigger, better and even fuller of happy Latvians. The huge buffet spans a number of rooms and even makes those who just had lunch drool. The saying over the door states that he who belches while eating will eat there next year. See you then! QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (3 - 5Ls). AS

LIDO atpūtas centrs (LIDO Recreation Centre)

Krasta 76, tel. (+371) 67 50 44 20, www.lido.lv. If Paul Bunyon built a log cabin in Latvia it would look like this! Mr. Ķirsons of the LIDO Empire has outdone himself with the biggest buffet of home cookin’ this country has ever seen. Enter the tremendous cellar and discover another restaurant with two bars which serve beer brewed on the premises. Weekends are family days with various activities for the kids including in-line skating and there’s live singing and dancing every night from 19:00. Take bus N°12 from the train station directly or tram N°3, 7 or 9 to the ‘Atpūtas centrs LIDO’ stop and walk about 5 - 10 minutes in the direction of the huge windmill. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (3 - 5Ls). TES

Riga In Your Pocket

LIDO Spice Lielirbes 29 (Spice shopping centre), tel.

(+371) 67 60 92 02, www.lido.lv. As with most LIDO Latvian fast food restaurants, you have to see this one to believe it. All of the usual local foods are on offer as well as the ubiquitous faux ethnographic design elements, but walk behind the main cafeteria area and discover a children’s paradise. A nearly life-sized two-storey castle surrounded by an electric go-cart track is guaranteed to cure any child of ADD, if only for a few hours. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (3 - 5Ls). S

Salve I-2, Rātslaukums 5, tel. (+371) 67 04 43 17, www.salverestaurant.lv. The staff are polite, the location is fantastic and the nouvelle Latvian cuisine, like the venison with blackberry jam, is tasty and, for the most part, authentic. However, the fake antique interior with its just-taken-out-ofthe-box look, not to mention the plastic flowers, cheapen the atmosphere and make you realise that you’re in a Disneyfied bar in a pretty ‘medieval’ building that didn’t even exist 15 years ago. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). A

Vērmanītis C-4, Elizabetes 65, tel. (+371) 67 28 62

89, www.lido.lv. A great place to eat a huge meal for cheap, this restaurant looks like medieval Europe and interwar Latvia collided and produced a unique space decorated with ethnic symbols, stone and stained glass. Bop about to local ‘ummpaa-paa’ music and help yourself to Baltic cuisine as well as salad and fruit bars on the ground floor and pizza and fast food in the cellar. Great views of the park. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (3 - 5Ls). S

Medieval Pie Kristapa Kunga B-4, Baznīcas 27/29, tel. (+371)

67 29 48 99, www.piekristapa.lv. Legend has it that a medieval warrior named Kristaps travelled all over the continent returning to Riga with trophies and riches, not to mention recipes, which are now used in this restaurant, his former house. This modern fable serves as the backdrop for this huge monument to kitsch offering king-sized portions of Latvian, Russian, European and Caucasian cuisine. Patrons can also watch sports on the big screen TV in the ‘medieval’ cellar or smoke a hookah in the ‘middle east’ room. Order the trout and you can watch them catch it in the pond downstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). AEX

Rozengrāls I-2, Rozena 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 03 56,

www.rozengrals.lv. The city’s only authentic medieval restaurant is already a hit with locals and tourists alike and with good reason. The candlelit cellar, already mentioned in ancient writings as early as 1293, was once used for special events by the town hall. Today it serves only food available hundreds of years ago, hence the absence of potatoes and tomatoes. Giant portions of delicious cuisine including pork, wild game and local fish are available as well as unique drinks that once graced the tables of both nobles and peasants. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10 - 15Ls). A

Mediterranean Pastarellia E-1, Mārupes 3, tel. (+371) 67 42 03 72,

www.vairaksaules.lv. This small Mediterranean-style bistro located near the Āgenskalns Market is part of the Vairāk Saules chain of restaurants. The menu is similar to its other establishments but places a larger emphasis on pastas and vegetable dishes including an excellent salad bar. The staff is friendly and the whitewashed walls, tile floor and blue and white wooden furniture is the perfect antidote to a dreary, grey Riga day. Extras include a good selection of Italian wines and take away coffee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (3 - 5Ls). AS

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Restaurants Middle Eastern Habibi I-2, Peldu 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 85 51. Laid-back

decadence at its best. Kick back on comfy Middle Easternstyle sofas and pillows, smoke from an authentic hookah and watch gorgeous belly dancers do their thing in the evenings. The pipe will set you back several hard-earned lats, but who said decadence comes cheap? Oh yes, they also serve food and drinks, but be warned that the tempting nuts and sweets on each table cost extra. QAlso on B/C-4, Ģertrūdes 14, tel. (+371) 67 29 01 55. Open 14:00 - 24:00. (5 - 8Ls). X

Midnight munchies Lauvas Nams B-5, Brīvības 82, tel. (+371) 67 31 26 61.

Located in the Lion House (there are lions all over the facade), this restaurant offers big, cheap meals in a funky, neon-illuminated interior. Choose from a large buffet which includes the ever-present shashlik as well as other meat cooked over a charcoal grill. Q Open 24hrs. (3 - 5Ls). AS

LIDO C-5, Ģertrūdes 54, tel. (+371) 67 28 93 96. The

late-night grub joint of years past has been retired, and in its place has come a more polished 24-hour eatery, ą la the other LIDO establishments. The cafeteria feel is gone, which means that the club goers looking for breakfast Stroganoff will have to behave a bit better. Q Open 24hrs. S

Melnais Kaķis (Black Cat) H-2, Meistaru 10/12, tel. (+371) 67 21 10 21, www.kakis.lv. When all of Riga’s other bars shut their doors, people come here. Head down to the Black Cat for a late-night meal and a good selection of beer and cocktails. You can also try your hand at billiards, pinball, darts, air hockey, video games or the slot machines. QOpen 08:00 - 07:00. (4 - 8Ls). AX

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Download our iPhone app at riga.inyourpocket.com Pizza Lulū C-4, Blaumaņa 5a, tel. (+371) 80 00 58 58,

www.lulu.lv. Tasty New York-style pizzas by the slice or the pie can be had here in a small, cosy restaurant that looks a bit like an old-fashioned American malt shop. Ideal for pizza on the run: have a slice and a salad for lunch or satisfy your post-pub cravings at any hour of the night. It also offers a 24-hour delivery service. Call its toll-free number or order online. Q Open 24hrs. AS

Sonali Pub C-4, Brīvības 46, tel. (+371) 67 28 10 45.

This place just may have set a world record. As far as we can tell this could be the only 24-hour sports pub and Chinese bistro pretty much anywhere with perhaps the exception of a few places in China itself. Drink Guinness, Staropramen or Tērvetes brews under red lanterns while watching sports on three large flat screens and eating cheap Asian food at any time of the day or night. Q Open 24hrs. ASW

New Zealand Kiwi Bar I-2, Skārņu 7 - 3, tel. (+371) 67 21 19 17, www.

kiwibar.lv. Over the years Riga has had its share of English and Irish pubs, but this is the first kiwi pub to open its doors in the Latvian capital. Friendly staff from Riga and New Zealand pour a good selection of foreign and domestic beers behind a huge rectangular bar while patrons admire the light wood interior and watch sports on a bunch of flat screen TVs. You can order a variety of pub food from burgers and breakfasts to sandwiches and ribs or even Indian cuisine from neighbouring Indian Raja. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. (3 - 7Ls). A

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Restaurants In Your Pocket Video Guides

Russian

In Your Pocket goes into the movie business... Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket. Check out our latest art nouveau video!

arbat.lv. Walk through the doors of Arbat and you’ll be transported to the tsarist era of opulent furnishings and lavish banquets a la Doctor Zhivago (before the commies started shooting kulaks and the bourgeois on the street). Slavic main courses cost more than the average proletarian can afford, but if you stick to beet salads and meat dumplings you won’t lose your shirt. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (5 - 15Ls). A

Pizza Čili Pica I-3, 13. janvāra 8 (Stockmann), tel. (+371)

67 22 01 89/(+371) 1822 (delivery), www.cili.lv. If nearly 50 varieties of pizzas ranging in size from 20 - 50cm in diameter don’t impress you, perhaps the incredibly attentive wait staff will. Big servings of spare ribs, salads, pasta and soups are also available in this large space decorated with faux marble columns and other assorted Italian kitsch. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Also at H-3, Brīvības bulv. 26, tel. (+371) 67 22 35 04. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00; H-3, Raiņa 15; and most shopping centres. (3 - 5Ls). AS

Pizza Lulū C-4, Blaumaņa 5a, tel. (+371) 80 00 58

58, www.lulu.lv. Tasty New York-style pizzas by the slice or the pie served in several popular restaurants or delivered home (order online at www.lulu.lv). The most central outlet on Blaumaņa is small and cosy, and looks a bit like a 1950s malt shop. Ideal for pizza on the run: have a slice and a salad for lunch or at 04:00 after a night of clubbing. Q Open 24hrs. Also at C-5, Ģertrūdes 27. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (2 - 3Ls). AS

Pizza Piranija B-3, Strēlnieku 11, tel. (+371) 67 33 44

15, www.piranija.lv. Look for the restored wooden house on the corner with the logo of a fish with big teeth to find a refreshing change from the various chain pizzerias scattered about town. Over 30 large thin crust pizzas are available from 4 - 6Ls each as well as local daily specials, pastas and salads. Its slogan - for lovers, losers and champions - reflects its relaxed, bohemian atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 6Ls). A

Vairāk Saules C-4, Dzirnavu 60, tel. (+371) 67 28 28

78/(+371) 80 00 90 80, www.vairaksaules.lv. The name means ‘more sun,’ but we prefer the title ‘more places like this please.’ Although the uniformed staff, colourful menus and interior design give this restaurant a slightly corporate chain feel, the service is genuinely friendly and the food, whether it be pizzas, pastas, seafood or vegetarian dishes, is fantastic. It also provides a kids’ play area for the little ones and a children’s menu. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (3 - 7Ls). TAS

Arbat H-2, Vāgnera 3, tel. (+371) 67 21 40 57, www.

Krievu Sēta (Russkij Dvor) Ķengaraga 3, tel. (+371)

67 13 49 30, www.lido.lv. The LIDO people have built a massive Russian restaurant just off of Maskavas (Moscow Street) with colourful interior of elaborately painted oak beams and hanging matroshka dolls. All of the classic staples such as dumplings and borscht are available as well as Russian brews and even rhubarb juice. Take trams N°7 or 9 to the Ķengaraga iela stop. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (3 - 5Ls).

Slāvu Restorāns H-2, Vaļņu 19, tel. (+371) 67 28 39

74, www.slavu.lv. Fresh flowers, huge samovars and boisterous wait staff make for an interesting dining experience on Old Riga’s main pedestrian street. Although caviar will cost you dearly and the grilled sturgeon is by no means cheap, you don’t have to be a Russian oil tycoon to order traditional dishes like pelmeni and vareniki. Ukrainian Obolon beer is on draught, but for sheer authenticity we recommend the horseradish vodka. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). AW

Traktieris B-4, Antonijas 8, tel. (+371) 67 33 24 55.

On the political stage, Russo - Latvian relations may not be what one would call warm, but this authentic restaurant is popular with Slavs and Balts alike. Each table is topped with an antique samovar, the wait staff wear traditional dress and the menu includes dishes from the entire breadth of Mother Russia. Cap it off with one of their flavoured vodkas. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). AE

Seafood Gastronome C-4, Brīvības 31 (Radisson BLU Hotel Lat-

vija), tel. (+371) 67 77 23 91, www.mc2.lv. The company that supplies most of Riga’s seafood also owns this beige and brown upmarket restaurant so you can be sure that the food is as fresh as can be. It serves fresh oysters, tuna and swordfish steaks, scallops, lobster and many more of your favourite sea creatures. If you haven’t had your fill at the restaurant you can also buy fresh fish and other delicacies to take away at its shop right next door. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Also at Krasta 68a, tel. (+371) 67 01 96 19. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (6 - 15Ls). A

Le Crabe I-1, Jauniela 24, tel. (+371) 67 21 24 16, www.lecrabe.lv. This upmarket restaurant has managed to poach a chef from one of the city’s best seafood restaurants. This no doubt explains the wide selection of delicacies like Mediterranean octopus carpaccio, king crab legs baked in butter and Dorado a la Niçoise. But even if you’re not into anything fishy you can order vegetarian cuisine and meat dishes such as rack of lamb. Unfortunately, all of these tasty treats will cost you dearly so bring your credit card or a boatload of cash. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10 - 15Ls). A

Watch a video, reserve a room, download a PDF guide or the new Riga In Your Pocket iPhone app at riga.inyourpocket.com Riga In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

Shashlik joints

Steak houses

NEW

Steak House Dome H-1, Smilšu 2, tel. (+371) 67 32

Mimino C-5, Čaka 59, tel. (+371) 29 66 22 33. The

infamous Latvian expression ‘nassing speshal’ certainly applies to this small dive that has the audacity to calls itself a server of authentic Georgian shashliks. Not only was the chewy, fatty meat sub-par, but there really isn’t much else on the menu except the harcho soup and cheese khachapuri, which they had already run out of at lunchtime. The cheap laminate floor, the ugly red interior and the Russian pop, which gets considerably louder when a ‘good song’ gets airplay, don’t make the experience any better. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (2 - 4Ls).

Šašliki Mangaļos Mores 22, tel. (+371) 67 39 52

57. The owners of this roadside tavern are so confident in the quality of their shashliks that they chose a remote location on the far end of Mežaparks. Order a huge skewer of meat and an Užavas draught and then choose your side dishes: chopped onions, tomatoes and chives and freshly baked Armenian bread. It’s that simple. Take tram N°11 to the Mežaparks stop and walk to the song festival grounds. Then walk northwest on Ostas prospekts to Mores. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (3 - 5Ls).

Soup Tikai karotes (Only Spoons) C-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo), tel. (+371) 67 06 56 54. Not surprisingly, Only Spoons only serves soup. Order anything from goulash and borsch to tomato or meatball soup in this funky green and red cafeteria with giant teardrop lamps hanging from the ceiling. You can also try dessert soups, coffee, smoothies and nonalcoholic cocktails. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (3Ls). S

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00 37, www.steakhousedome.lv. You can order a salad, oysters or even the duck breast, but let’s face it: this is a steakhouse. Try the delicious steak sandwich with horseradish and Bernaise sauce, tuck into a big sirloin or just splurge on the huge steak served on an oak tray for 12.95Ls. The staff could smile a little more, but all in all the service is excellent and the location in a beautiful art nouveau building by Dome Square is perfect. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (5 - 10Ls). A

Zilā govs (The Blue Cow) H-2, Meistaru 21, tel. (+371) 67 22 33 07, www.zila-govs.lv. Named after a particular breed of Latvian cow, this huge restaurant housed in one of Old Riga’s most charming medieval buildings specialises, not surprisingly, in a variety of different steaks that are aged 25 - 40 days in a special meat locker. You can also order swordfish or tuna steaks as well as nouvelle Latvian cuisine like pork fillet marinated in quince juice fried in hemp butter with spinach and pearl-barley risotto. Although impossible to miss, just look for the blue cow perched above the doorway. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (8 - 18Ls). A

Menus You can expect most menus at Old Riga restaurants to list dishes in Latvian, Russian and English. Some are guaranteed to amuse you. Favourites include ‘boiled cancer,’ an unfortunate reference to the zodiac instead of a crustacean, and ‘house made carbonate’ which is actually meant to be a pork chop and not something that an al Qaeda operative made in his basement.

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Restaurants Teatime Amelie H-2, Zirgu 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 29 02. This cosy

little teashop offers dozens of varieties of tea stored in glass mason jars behind the counter in a charming rustic interior. There’s only one table on the ground floor, but if you take the spiral staircase to top there’s another room with plenty of ambience and views of the nearby square. A small selection of homemade cakes, pies and cookies are also available as well as iced coffee and tea in the summer. Wine and whiskey are also on the menu. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A

Apsara I-2, Skārņu 22, tel. (+371) 67 22 31 60. Lovers of imported dried leaves can enjoy a wide selection of teas from Asia in a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere. Visit the outlet on Skārņu for a mix of medieval and oriental decorations or try the one in the Vērmanes Garden and sit on huge oriental-style pillows in a tiny wooden house. Rumour has it that the second floor has become a love shack of sorts for amorous couples in the evenings. No coffee. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. C-4, Tērbatas 2 (entrance from Elizabetes), tel. (+371) 67 21 24 36; D-4, Barona 2a, tel. (+371) 67 22 77 10. Open 10:00 - 23:00. A

Smilšu pulkstenis H-2, Meistaru 8, tel. (+371) 26 49

47 77. It’s always difficult to get a seat at this tiny teashop owing to its size and the delicious cakes and pastries it bakes on the premises. Tea, coffee and freshly squeezed juices are all available here in a pleasant, if a bit cramped atmosphere. The giant hourglass hanging above the door has somehow managed to escape destruction despite the preponderance of inebriated youth that roam Old Riga in the evenings. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Zen B-4, Stabu 6, tel. (+371) 67 31 65 21. If you feel a

cold coming on, and have an hour to spare, the exotic Chinese tea may help cure you. As will the mellow time immersed among pillows, lanterns, candles and other peace-seeking patrons. This is not the place to stop in for a quick cup - the complex brewing process is performed in front of you and takes at least 20 minutes. For those who want something stronger than tea, hookahs are also available. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. A

Tex-Mex

Our favourites For reviews see index on p.75. Bar......................................Krogs Aptieka (Pharmacy Bar) Breakfast (early)................................Boulangerie Bonjour Brunch.......................................... Harry Morgan or Osīriss Child-friendly.................................................. Vairāk Saules Cocktails.......................Paldies Dievam piektdiena ir klāt Coffee shop..........................................................Coffee Inn Ethnic dining......................................... Aragats or Gan Bei Indian..................................................... Indian Tikka House Latvian food..................................................... Alus Ordenis Pub.............................................................................. Knaipe Romance........................................................... Melnie Mūki Sports bar...................................................Paddy Whelan’s Style & Value-for-money.......................................Neiburgs Upmarket dining.................................... Bergs Restaurant

Ukrainian Dņipro F-2, Alunāna 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 28 58, www.

dnipro.lv. Not unlike the Orange revolution that pointed Ukraine in a westward direction, this once Soviet-style restaurant was closed for business for a month only to emerge from its aging cocoon a bright, inviting café. The waitresses wear traditional shirts, the old tables and chairs have been replaced by ornately carved furniture and the tasty, authentic food, despite the renovations, is just as cheap as it used to be. Order and pay at the bar. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (2 - 4Ls). AX

Upmarket Bergs Restaurant C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga

bazārs), tel. (+371) 67 77 09 57, www.hotelbergs.lv. Possibly the best restaurant in Riga, Bergs never disappoints. With a stylish interior that looks like it was ripped out of the pages of Architectural Digest and an ever-changing menu of international fusion and nouvelle Latvian cuisine that will satisfy even the most demanding palates, it’s guaranteed to make your lunch or dinner a memorable one. Special three- and five-course meals prepared by award-winning chef Kaspars Jansons are also available. Breakfast is served daily 07:30 - 11:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (9 - 18Ls). AW

Klondaika C-4, Dzirnavu 59, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 66,

Columbine I-3, Aspazijas bulv. 36 (Metropole), tel.

Tequila Boom H-1, Mazā Pils 11, tel. (+371) 67 22

Fabrikas restorāns B-2, Balasta dambis 70, tel.

www.klondaika.lv. The designer of this kitschy place has seen one too many westerns, but we love it just the same. Relax outside in one of the best summer courtyards the centre has to offer, head down to the slot machine hall optimistically labelled the gold mine (zelta raktuves), go up one level to the saloon-style restaurant or down to the bar that only closes for two hours each morning. The Tex-Mex food is a few degrees shy of authentic, but its tasty, filling and relatively cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00. Bar open 09:00 - 07:00. (3 - 6Ls). AXW 70 06. We’ve had enough experience with Mexico’s national hooch to stay away from it, but if you’re looking for the shortcut to Drunkville then try dozens of different tequilas and even mezcal at this cosy Tex-Mex bar. Highest marks go to the fajitas whose marinated beef is prepared just right, but the presence of pineapple in the burritos is a definite no-no. The back courtyard has been enclosed so you can now eat nachos and chilli in the ‘nearly outdoors’ year round. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (4 - 6Ls). AX

Riga In Your Pocket

(+371) 67 22 54 11, www.metropole.lv. This elegant restaurant has re-opened after major renovations were made to the Metropole, Riga’s oldest continuously running hotel. Its chandeliers, brass fixtures, Persian-style carpets and paintings have all been moved to the opposite end of the ground floor and although the menu has changed to attract a more budget-minded public, old favourites such as the giant grilled steak served on an oak platter with mashed potatoes are still on offer. A 3.20Ls business lunch is also available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Breakfast daily from 07:30 for 5Ls. (5 - 10Ls). A RC (+371) 67 87 38 04, www.melniemuki.lv. Amid cobble stone streets and restored 19th-century houses and factories you’ll find this chic restaurant run by the same people who brought you that staple of fine dining, Melnie Mūki. The menu is excellent and were it not for the spectacular views of the harbour and Old Riga’s spires, one might think they’ve stumbled into a quaint Scandinavian fishing village. Patrons often arrive here in Italian sports cars or in yachts which can moor at its floating summer terrace. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (8 - 18Ls). A

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Restaurants

La Boheme F-2, Alunāna 2a, tel. (+371) 67 32 19 38,

Vincents B-3, Elizabetes 19, tel. (+371) 67 33 26 34,

www.laboheme.lv. La Boheme has a little something for everyone. To the left is a trendy brasserie and cocktail lounge serving light food like salads, soups and pastas for affordable prices and to the right is an elegant upmarket restaurant offering delicious international cuisine like Classic Charolais entrecôte steak au poivre in veal stock sauce. Although the wine selection is commendable, it’s refreshing to see that beer drinkers haven’t been forgotten. The hoppy Tērvetes brew is available. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (5 - 8Ls; 12 - 17Ls). A

www.restorans.lv. A culinary institution in Riga for over a decade, Vincents has hosted heads of state, captains of industry and stars of the stage and screen including Prince Charles and Elton John. In addition to an ever-changing menu of haute cuisine cooked slowly with local eco-friendly produce, renowned chef Mārtiņš Rītiņš also offers a variety of exotic imported steaks. Naturally, the interior design is also cuttingedge. Q Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (16 - 22Ls). A

Otto Schwarz H-2, Kaļķu 28, tel. (+371) 67 08 76 23,

Rāma C-5, Barona 56, tel. (+371) 67 27 24 90. This

Piramīda G-3, Reimersa 1 (Radisson BLU Ridzene

Svada H-3, Raiņa bulv. 17 (entrance from Inženieru). In

www.derome.lv. If you’re fabulously wealthy or a visiting head of state and you’re desperate for a fantastic view of the Freedom Monument, then the elegant, wood-panelled Otto Schwarz situated on the 7th floor of Hotel de Rome might just be the place for you. It also boasts an excellent menu of upmarket seasonal cuisine prepared by a top chef, one of the city’s best wine collections and even a children’s menu. A breakfast buffet from 07:00 - 10:30 and a business lunch from 12:00 - 16:00 are also available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15 - 20Ls). A RC Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 32 44 33, www.radissonblu. com/ridzenehotel-riga. This elegant restaurant housed in a glass pyramid has been dubbed the ‘little Louvre’ by the local press. Its impressive international menu is guaranteed to satisfy even the most demanding gourmet. Breakfast buffet from 07:00 - 11:00 for 9Ls; two- and three-course business lunch weekdays from 12:00 - 15:00 for 7 - 9Ls. It also has great views of the park. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. (10 - 15Ls). A

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Vegetarian place is popular among young people, the thrifty, those seeking enlightenment and, of course, vegetarians because it’s one of the cheapest places to fill your belly in Riga and owned by the Krishnas. The rice, cabbage and tofu dishes, often seasoned with curry, chilli and saffron, range in taste from bland to delicious. Proceeds from the restaurant go to feed the poor, so eat plenty, eat often and help support two great causes - the homeless and your wallet. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:30, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (2 - 4Ls). NEW

case you’re wondering, Svada means ‘taste’ in Sanskrit and the Indian owner of this tiny vegetarian bistro not only serves up tasty samosas, chapati and pakora, but he doesn’t charge an arm and a leg for them either. You can also sample some spicy mains and soups from the Subcontinent as well as authentic sweets and even beer and cocktails, which you can enjoy into the wee hours at the weekend. Although it’s open from 08:00, you shouldn’t expect a full selection of food until 11:00. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri Sat 24hrs. (1 - 3Ls). AS

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Bars Celsijs I-2, Mazā Monētu 5. Celsius now favours more

mainstream music, so you probably won’t hear your favourite punk rock ditty here anymore, but it still attracts a young crowd of students who take advantage of incredibly cheap local brews and bottom shelf cocktails served in plastic cups. Order a drink at the bar and try to squeeze in with strangers at one of the wooden picnic tables. QOpen 17:00 - 06:00. AW NEW

Ezītis miglā I-1, Palasta 9 (entrance from Jauniela), tel. (+371) 25 93 55 56. Named after a famous Sovietera cartoon and children’s story, The Hedgehog in the Fog is tucked away at the far, quiet end of a popular pub street, which is probably why it seems to cater to locals instead of tourists. Inside you’ll find the oft-repeated home-away-fromhome theme where the interior is meant to put you in mind of your living room, with the exception of the strangers drinking on the couch. Beer lovers should give it a pass, but if you’re into ping-pong then order a cocktail and hit the back room. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. NEW

Garāža H-2, Aldaru 10, tel. (+371) 67 33 46 96. The

garage is a small bar that tries to make the most of the space that it has on the ground floor of a medieval building near the Swedish Gate. The automobile theme is in evidence everywhere from the custom American licence plate wallpaper to the real car seats at the bar and tables. One booth is even set up like a train sleeper car with bunk beds. The food is a little pricey, but even grease monkeys on a budget can afford the omelettes and pastas. Local Valmiermuižas and Cēsu on draught. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 7Ls). A

Riga In Your Pocket

Warning! Riga In Your Pocket has received readers’ complaints and, in some cases, horror stories about the following places: A13 (formerly Mary) – Grēcinieku iela; Blow Style (formerly Monroe’s) – Skārņu 7 Enigma (formerly Puzzle) – Kaļķu iela (Līvu Square); Līvu krodziņš (formerly Royal Pub, Lord Pub and Groks) – Kaļķu iela (Līvu Square); Babylon (formerly Roxy) – Kaļķu iela (Līvu Square); Radio Bar - Šķūņu 17 (entrance from Zirgu) Red Lion Pub - Laipu 7; Riga Student Hostel - Teātra 12.

Gauja B-5, Tērbatas 56, tel. (+371) 67 27 56 62. Step

into a Latvian apartment circa 1970. Elvis records crackle on the Hi-Fi while a bohemian bartender grabs liquor bottles from what appears to be someone’s grandmother’s china cabinet. The furniture is also retro as are the Soviet style beer mugs and the antique magazines and books. Try a milky Brenguļu brew out on the sidewalk or grab a stool and knock back a cheap vodka shot. In keeping with the communal living theme, space is limited. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.

HHC (Hardcore Hangover Club) I-2, Peldu 21, tel.

(+371) 67 22 47 99. The name says it all. HHC is definitely a good place to nurse a hangover in relative anonymity. Choose from three different varieties of Lāčplēsis beer from dark to light for cheap prices or the more expensive Brenguļu microbrew also on draught. You can also order cocktails, play board games, have a smoke in the back room or just have a giggle at the sight of hard-drinking goths and bohemians sitting on bright, floral patterned couches - a leftover from the defunct hippy bar John Lemon. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. A

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Nightlife

Krogs Aptieka (Pharmacy Bar) H-1, Mazā Miesnieku

1. After presiding over a staple of the Washington DC nightlife scene for several years, American-Latvian Kristaps Krēsliņš has opened yet another Pharmacy Bar, but this time in the Latvian capital. Medieval brick walls, medicinal tinctures and scales, tables embedded with capsules and pills and painted silhouettes of old-fashioned bottles on two floors are a clever combination of old and new and the perfect backdrop for a night of cocktails and beers. The bar also provides a smoking courtyard, summer terrace and a jukebox that offers anything from Johnny Cash and Bob Marley to the Pixies and Metallica. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. AEX

La Belle Époque I-2, Mazā Jaunavu 8 (entrance from

Mazā Monētu), tel. (+371) 67 21 22 80. An unusual mix of teenage boys and girls and curious foreigners congregate in this cellar bar to take advantage of the incredibly cheap beer on draught. Although it often looks like a mix between a high school dance and an all-night rave with scant lighting and lots of bodily contact, the barmen/chaperones encourage mingling with shots of Absinthe and other hard alcohol. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.

Lobby Bar F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson BLU Hotel

Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 22, www. radissonblu. com/latvijahotel-riga. What traveller hasn’t spent a little time at a lobby bar out of sheer necessity? Unlike most reception area lounges, the Radisson BLU Hotel Latvija’s offers cutting edge design, an impressive variety of cocktails and an excellent menu that offers everything from a Nicoise salad or a Mediterranean tapas platter to big burgers and the best club sandwich in the city. You’ll pay more for a beer than at most other places in town, but style and comfort don’t come cheap in Riga. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00. A

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Coming soon Dstyle (Dionysus Style) I-2, Skārņu 9, tel. (+371) 27 88 77 71. As we went to press Dstyle was nearing its grand opening celebration. Located on one of Old Riga’s most central streets, Dstyle, an homage to the Greek god Dionysus who can be seen hanging from the ceiling, is operated by one of Latvia’s most popular music personalities, DJ Ella. During the day it will be a restaurant serving international cuisine and pizzas and at night it’ll be a cocktail lounge and club. QOpen 11:00 - 00:30, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00.

Pieci Vilki (Five Wolves) B-4, Stabu 6, tel. (+371) 67 29 95 55. Owned by a prominent member of a local motorcycle club, Five Wolves is sometimes frequented by local neighbourhood types and at other times by hard-drinking leather-clad men with beards. The menu offers a bit of everything including fried eggs and bacon, chicken wings in extra large sizes and steak served just right. Shot takers shouldn’t pass up the vodka bottle served in a block of ice. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. A Rock ‘n’ Riga J-2, 13.janvāra 33, tel. (+371) 20 04 48

01. Rock music has a new home on the edge of Old Riga. Rock ‘n’ Riga offers a worn interior of rusty lamps, a central wooden bar and exposed brick walls festooned with old signs, guitars and a giant mural of rock gods Morrison, Hendrix, Kiss, ACDC and Ozzy. The beer selection, including the popular Valmiermuiža microbrew, is excellent, albeit pricey (2.50Ls!), and you can order decent pub grub like chicken wings, Caesar salads and burgers. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

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Roks cepurē C-5, Stabu 32, tel. (+371) 29 17 58 63.

Although it hasn’t been in this 19th-century wooden building for very long, its cluttered, worn interior of rock posters, photos, flags and the largest collection of airplane liquor bottles in creation make it appear that it’s been here for ages. Alternative and hard rock music ensure a crowd of bohemian students as well as biker types or perhaps they just come here for the cheap beer and the largest selection of soups in the country (about 30). Live acts occasionally squeeze onto the small stage. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. E

NEW

Trīs vīri laivā (Three Men in a Boat) C-5, Avotu 35,

tel. (+371) 28 34 87 16. Named after the classic Jerome K. Jerome comic tale, this cosy, neighbourhood bar mainly caters to locals who live in the area, but it also offers a few things that might just lure some Brits away from Old Riga. Order beef Wellington, fish and chips or an English breakfast and drink an incredibly cheap local beer or imported brews like Belhaven Twisted Thistle IPA. If you’re still not convinced, it also offers SkySports. Q (3 - 6Ls). W RC

Adult entertainment

Shot Café H-2, Torņa 4-IIIB (Jēkaba kazarmas), tel.

Jockey Club F-3, Elizabetes 49, tel. (+371) 67 22

NEW

Labi C-5, Lāčplēša 47, tel. (+371) 67 28 61 15, www.labi.

(+371) 67 22 41 65. This popular cellar bar offers a full menu of international food and drink during the day, but it’s at night that Shot Café shows its true colours. Packed with a young crowd of arty snowboard types dancing to a variety of alternative and house music, it’s a great place to go for a long night of short drinks for reasonable prices. Try the ābolu pīrāgs (a shot of vodka and apple juice topped with cinnamon). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. A

Taka B-5, Miera 10. Popular with Bohemians of all stripes,

this cosy bar is surprisingly dark given that it’s walls are painted every colour of the rainbow and are covered in artwork including a giant golden bull’s head made of insulation foam. The music leans toward the alternative and the downright obscure, the draught Valmiermuiža costs only 1.50Ls and its homemade apple wine is also worth a try. Sit on a worn couch with your laptop and use its free wi-fi, order some food or just take in the funky atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. W

Riga In Your Pocket

88 44. The Scandinavian-owned Jockey Club has provided adult entertainment for Riga’s citizens and visitors since the mid-1990s. Naked ladies practice their trade every 20 to 30 minutes, but fully clothed women dance around a pole for your amusement between shows. A fulll stocked bar is of course available, but private dances from incredibly beautiful women seem to be the major draw. An expat favourite. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 10Ls. A tev.lv. For nearly 20 years this chain of sex shops has offered private video booths, live strip shows and a huge selection of films, sex toys and other gear to spice up one’s love life. Unlike many clubs that are out to rip you off in Riga, Labi provides professional staff and decent prices should you be one of this planet’s many financially challenged lonely males. Splurge on an erotic massage for around 35Ls or spend much less on a peep show. Q Open 24hrs. Also at C-4, A. Kalniņa 8. Open 24hrs; B-5, Brīvības 98; Lāčplēša 61. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AIDC

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Nightlife

Clubs Amber Night F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson BLU Hotel

Latvija), www.ambernight.lv. Descend into the depths of the Radisson BLU Hotel Latvija, to find this sleek, stylish nightclub designed with an over 25 crowd in mind. Listen to Top 40 from the past three decades while you sip expertly poured cocktails served at two different bars. Hit the dance floor, relax on gold and black couches in the main hall or occupy one of the tables in the back that have built-in champagne buckets that change colou. QOpen Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: Fri, Sat 5Ls. A WARNING

Babylon I-2, Kaļķu 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 52 50, www.

clubbabylon.lv. Once known as Roxy, a dodgy club, where tourists were known to get ripped off, it appears that Babylon has changed little apart from its name. Hit the dance floor, have a seat on the couches upstairs and on stage, chill out in the bar downstairs or, like most people, scratch your head and wonder why there are so many middle-aged men dancing with very young girls. Enter at your own risk and if you do then be sure to pay in cash. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Admission: 3 - 5Ls. A

Club Essential C-4, Skolas 2, tel. (+371) 67 24 22 89,

www.essential.lv. This vibrant hotspot is not another typical boring Riga techno club. In fact, it’s quite stylish offering a funky chill out room and several distinct areas on two levels which are all a part of the action surrounding the central dance floor. The music is fast-paced and progressive which is what you’d expect given the talented DJs it imports from around Europe each weekend. QOpen Wed, Sun 23:00 - 05:00, Thu 23:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 10:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 3 - 5Ls. AX

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NEW

Coco Loco I-2, Pēterbaznīcas 17. Although not exactly

a full-fledged Jamaican bar (not yet anyway), nearly every wooden surface is stained in the Rastafarian colours of red, yellow and green. It will eventually be open also on weekdays and offer a menu, but right now it’s primarily a fun cocktail bar and club on Friday and Saturday nights offering Lāčplēsis on draught and plenty of rum drinks. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

Coyote Fly I-1, Palasta 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 77 94,

www.coyotefly.lv. The interior of black and white designer ads and red neon is a bit lacking, but the food is tasty, albeit expensive, and the lunch special is good value for money. The glass box for smokers looks like a science experiment gone awry when full and the dizzying disco lights above the urinals might just inspire an unwanted result, but locals come here in droves to watch girls dance on the bar and don’t mind waiting outside. Unfortunately, the bouncers at the door usually only allow Latvians to enter so you might want to give it a pass. QOpen Thu 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. AW REMODELLED

Depo (Depot) I-2, Vaļņu 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 01 14,

www.klubsdepo.lv. Underground music lovers, hip youth and, yes, even bald, over the hill travel writers, this is the stop where you get off. Indie groups and DJ’s from abroad, garage bands and an alternative crowd all co-exist happily in this club, one of the few in Riga to sponsor rock, hardcore, heavy metal, punk, reggae and experimental music genres. Watch the bands perform in the basement or just have a beer on the ground floor. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Admission: concerts 3 - 5Ls. AEX

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NEW

L.A. (Lounge Alexantria) I-3, Audēju 11. Los Angeles

is about as far away from Riga as you can get but that hasn’t stopped the owners of L.A. from opening this café/lounge with a City of Angels theme. Multi-coloured cave-like walls, a rock garden under glass and otherwise too dark interior don’t exactly scream California, but the Robert De Niro sandwich (mozzarella and grilled peppers, aubergines and zucchini on a toasted roll) was tasty, especially at 2.50Ls. At night L.A. becomes a club that leans more toward hip-hop, R’n’B and urban music with plenty of cocktails, weekend karaoke and a cellar dance hall. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. A

PUSH G-3, Tērbatas 2 (entrance from Merķeļa), tel.

(+371) 20 22 33 22, www.push.lv. Two Swedes and two locals have put their years of club experience together to open this huge venue only a block away from the Freedom Monument in the Vērmanes Park. Popular house music and international DJs entertain a crowd of Riga’s 25+ beautiful people while go-go girls dance above the bottles of the central bar. Nearly 22km of fiber optic cable in the chandelier and elsewhere set the mood with changing lights and drinks are ‘tax-free’ before midnight, meaning 21% cheaper. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Admission: 5Ls. A NEW

Sapņi un kokteiļi C-4/5, Blaumaņa 32, tel. (+371) 22

[email protected], www.moonsafari.lv. One might think that the queue outside indicates a steep admission fee or strict face control, but neither is true. The bouncers are just checking the IDs of the pretty young girls dressed in mini-skirts and thigh-high boots. Inside you’ll discover a cavernous club with even more young ladies in tempting outfits and pleasantly cheap drinks like Lāčplēsis beer. The music includes pop and local Top 40 and karaoke and VIP rooms are also available. QOpen 17:00 - 07:00.

08 72 98, www.suk.lv. When you enter the foyer and leave your coat with the gentlemen in a suit, you might think that this popular club is a bit old school but once you reach the main hall you’ll no doubt be happy to realise that the atmosphere is actually laid back and casual. A huge L-shaped bar manned by men and women in bright overalls will no doubt grab your attention as will the swings that surround it, not to mention the fake garden ‘growing’ from the ceiling. Upstairs you’ll find a hookah and cigar bar. The drinks aren’t exactly cheap, but no one seems to mind. QOpen Wed, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

Nabaklab H-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 12, www.nabak-

The Club I-2, Kungu 8, tel. (+371) 26 77 17 71, www.

NEW

Moon Safari I-2, Krāmu 2, tel. (+371) 29 44 20 65,

lab.lv. Take a hip music club and add art exhibits and a vintage clothing shop and you have a recipe for Riga’s best alternative hotspot. You can watch a live band in one hall, dance to DJs in another, relax with a beer in a retro Soviet apartment room or have a smoke and a drink at a picnic table in its huge courtyard. Definitely not the place for techno or pop music fans. Did we mention that its own Nabaklab brew costs only 0.90Ls? QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Admission: Fri, Sat 2Ls. EX

Piens (Milk) A-5, Aristida Briāna 9, www.klubspiens. lv. Located in a renovated 19th-century brewery on the edge of the city centre, this self-proclaimed sofa bar is hard to find and that’s the way the owners like it. Those in the know know that this is one of Riga’s hottest clubs and many don’t mind queuing up at the weekend to sit on one of many couches that are each completely different in style from your grandma’s sofa to one you’d see in your doctor’s waiting room. With two large terraces and a funky, eclectic interior, hip and laid-back Milk is hard to beat. Sadly, on busy nights they often bar entrance to non-Latvians. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.

Plenty more boozers at riga.inyourpocket.com Riga In Your Pocket

theclub.lv. The name may not be too original, but there’s plenty to see and do and The Club. A good mix of foreigners, students and beautiful local women congregate here and gyrate and drink to popular club music on two floors. Hit the dance floor to meet and greet and or take a seat on a comfortable couch upstairs and watch the mayhem unfold below. To avoid paying an admission fee, download a flier from its website. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Admission: men 3 - 5Ls. A

Gay Riga Golden Bar & Club C-5, Ģertrūdes 33/35, tel.

(+371) 25 50 50 50, www.mygoldenclub.com. Golden doesn’t promote itself much as a gay club from the outside, but the flamboyant bartenders do a pretty good job of convincing you just in case you didn’t get the hint coming in. After navigating corridors and staircases for a time, you’ll find a stylish interior, as one might expect, where patrons can sit at the bar in the atrium or relax in the smoker’s lounge. Thankfully, it doesn’t have that sleezy vibe that some gay clubs tend to exude. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. A

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Nightlife

Cocktails

Cuba Café H-1, Jauniela 15, tel. (+371) 67 22 43 62,

The stylish brown interior of leather couches and chairs spread out over three rooms is warm and inviting, the expensive cocktails, including the ones made with Latvia’s national drink, are among the best the city has to offer. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. A

www.cubacafe.lv. The global fascination with Fidel and Guevera is still alive and well in Riga in this dimly-lit café whose walls are adorned with black and white photos of the tropical nation and its immortal leader. Although a few assorted starters are on offer, Cuba Café is more of a cocktail bar serving pricey island drinks in an intimate setting. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. AX

Cream Café F-3, Dzirnavu 55, tel. (+371) 67 28 40 74,

Mad House H-2, Kaļķu 11, tel. (+371) 67 22 05 54. Mad

B-Bārs I-1, Doma laukums 2, tel. (+371) 67 22 88 42.

www.creamcafe.lv. Not unlike the cafés you find in Western European cities, Cream Café serves breakfast food like omelettes in the morning, local and European cuisine for lunch and dinner, cocktails and music in the evenings. Take a seat at one of the stylish couches facing the long bar or duck down into the cellar for a bit more privacy. DJs spin dance tunes for clubbers at the weekend. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun.

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House offers a scatter-brained interior of old movie posters, niches that look like retro living rooms and kitchens and even a portrait of old Lenin. Mixed drinks are delicious but will cost you dearly so you might want to stick with a local draught beer like Tērvetes. A full breakfast, lunch and dinner menu is available as well as a dance floor and a chill out room hidden in the depths of the cellar. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Fri 09:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 03:00. A

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Nightlife Skyline Bar F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson BLU Hotel Latvi-

ja - 26th floor), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 82, www. radissonblu. com/latvijahotel-riga. A visit to the Skyline Bar has become a mandatory stop Riga’s tourists and this fact is reflected in its largely foreign clientele. The views are spectacular and the retro interior of shag carpeting, comfy couches and an abundance of pillows is warm and inviting. Getting one of the seats by the windows is a chore, but it’s worth the effort. The wait staff can be a little lethargic, but perhaps it’s due to the altitude. Tapas and sandwiches available. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. AEX

Star Lounge B-4, Dzirnavu 33 (Albert Hotel - 11th floor),

tel. (+371) 67 14 27 49. The name is certainly in keeping with the Einstein theme of the hotel, but perhaps it’s also due to the fact that everyone’s much closer to heavenly bodies on the 11th floor. In any event, you’re guaranteed fantastic views from several stylish couches and a wide selection of cocktails for typically high prices given the establishment’s elevated position. An outdoor terrace is also available for fearless drinkers in the summer months. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. A

Live music Bites Blues Club B-4, Dzirnavu 34a, tel. (+371) 67 33

31 25, www.bluesclub.lv. The dark interior is basic without any trendy trappings, the way a real blues club should be. If you’re unfortunate enough to miss the live acts on weekend nights, sometimes from as far away as Memphis, classic performances are often broadcast on the big screen during the day. Even if the blues is just another colour to you, it’s worth a visit for the delicious international cuisine and the Užavas beer on draught. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Admission: Fri, Sat 5 - 15Ls. AE

Četri Balti Krekli I-3, Vecpilsētas 12, tel. (+371) 67 21

38 85, www.krekli.lv. Ultra-Latvians raised on folk songs and beer find their way to this restaurant/club when they want to hear nothing but familiar rock and quality live performances. Bring a well-versed native to point out famous writers and artists, who often find inspiration under the brick ceiling. White shirts aren’t required, but no matter how much you smile at the bouncer, you won’t get in wearing trainers. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission: 1 - 5Ls. AEX

Kabata (Pocket) I-2, Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 67 22 33

34, www.kabata.lv. Descend the spiral dungeon stairs and enter this Pocket filled with teenage bodies gyrating to three-year-old top 40 radio hits. Though it’s worth catching local musicians some nights, the scene of questionably legal youngsters on their third beer might warrant a pass. On the other hand, if it’s young local ladies you’re after in the small hours of the morning, then look no further. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 1 - 3Ls. AEX

Pubs Kiwi Bar I-2, Skārņu 7 - 3, tel. (+371) 67 21 19 17, www.

kiwibar.lv. Over the years Riga has had its share of English and Irish pubs, but this is the first kiwi pub to open its doors in the Latvian capital. Friendly staff from Riga and New Zealand pour a good selection of foreign and domestic beers behind a huge rectangular bar while patrons admire the light wood interior and watch sports on a bunch of flat screen TVs. You can order a variety of pub food from burgers and breakfasts to sandwiches and ribs or even Indian cuisine from neighbouring Indian Raja. The Kiwi Bar is also open nearly all day and night. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. (3 - 7Ls). A

Riga In Your Pocket

Nightlife tours Riga Out There Tel. (+371) 29 38 94 50/(+371)

67 48 24 43, www.out-there.eu. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights English-speaking guides will take you and your friends to Riga’s best bars and clubs. The 20Ls tours include at least five destinations and a free drink or free admission depending on the venue. Groups of 6 - 20 people are welcome on the tour that is meant for people who want to experience the ‘real’ Riga, not the drunken wanderings of a stag party. They also offer sightseeing tours as well as shooting, paintball and bobsleigh excursions.

Riga Weekend Tel. (+371) 26 57 61 66, www. rigaweekend.com. If you’re looking for a custom tailored nightlife tour of Riga for only 15Ls, this company will set you up with a charming female guide that will take you on a pub crawl of the city’s best bars that includes free admission to a striptease club and a nightclub. They also arrange a wide variety of activities in Latvia such as paintball, bobsleigh runs, go-carting, shooting with real guns, airport transfers and much more. WARNING

Līvu krodziņš H-2, Kaļķu 22. The city’s most infamous

rip-off joint has yet again changed its name, this time to Līvu krodziņš. When this place was known as Groks, it was the most notorious perpetrator of tourist scams in Latvia. After Riga In Your Pocket and its readers brought this to the attention of the local media, it soon shut its doors. To our horror and dismay it was re-opened as Lord Pub, but police raids, bad press and your comments once again made them change their name to Royal Pub. Don’t even look at this place!

Restorācija B/C-5, Tērbatas 54, tel. (+371) 26 44

42 78. Run by a member of a local motorcycle club and a popular Latvian actress, this small pub and restaurant draws a diverse crowd of bearded, tattooed men in leathers, thirsty politicians, neighbourhood bohemians and the occasional granny out for a slice of coffee and cake. Although the menu offers all kinds of interesting dishes like honey marinated venison with cranberry sauce and Latvian favourites like blood sausage, it’s also just a good place to have a delicious local beer for a very reasonable price. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 6Ls). A

Runcis (Tomcat) I-2, Jāņa sēta 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 41

98. The kind of place where you wish everybody knew your name. It’s totally Latvian in its beer, food, and frequenters, who are usually playing chess, playing cards and exchanging anecdotes. If the thought of seeing another tourist makes you queasy, head here to hide and enjoy some of Old Riga’s cheapest beer. In short, it’s a place that most women find boring and most men intriguing. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. A NEW

Stacijas robeža C-4, Blaumaņa 14. With oil paintings

of locomotives, red and gold banners with hammers and sickles, railway signs and even children’s wallpaper with bunnies riding trains, this cosy cellar pub is a depot of Soviet era railroad culture. Order Baltic style food from omelettes to ‘Lenin’s meat dumplings’ that come with a shot of vodka and a gherkin or just enjoy Latvian brews or cocktails. A big screen is also available for concerts, hockey games and the like. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (2 - 4Ls). W

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Nightlife Sports bars Alberts Pub H-2, Šķūņu 19, tel. (+371) 22 33 20 41,

www.albertspub.lv. Bishop Albert founded Riga in 1201, so it’s perhaps appropriate that this sports pub located across the square from the cathedral he built bears his name. You can watch sports on three large flat screens, sample over a dozen different beers for under 2Ls and order burgers, fish and chips, an English breakfast or other pub food for affordable prices. In fact, nothing on the menu costs more than 5Ls. Naturally, Alberts shows all of the usual sporting events including local hockey, English, Spanish, German and even Scandinavian football and pretty much anything else you could possibly want to watch. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. AW

Paddy Whelan’s Irish Pub & Sports Bar I-2, Grēcinieku

4, tel. (+371) 67 21 01 50, www.pub.lv. Although it’s considered a traditional Irish pub it’s also a sports bar dedicated to the finer things in life - namely football and formula one. On the ground floor you can expect a dozen or so flat screen TVs showing different matches, while upstairs you’ll find a cosier atmosphere with loads of memorabilia on the walls including a portrait of Pierluigi Collina. In addition to the usual Irish and international pub food, Paddy’s also offers a menu of authentic Indian cuisine cooked in a real tandoor. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:00. AEXS

Wine bars D’vine F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson BLU Hotel Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 77 22 17, www.radissonblu. com/latvijahotel-riga. Banish all images of typical wine bars where scruffy men sit and smoke at wooden tables stained with the ghosts of drinks past. Sleek, modern D’vine is located on the second floor of the new glass and cutting-edge metal arrow jutting out of the Radisson BLU Hotel Latvija. Snack on Mediterranean tapas and salads while you sip a wide variety of wine and spirits by the glass, half-bottle or bottle. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A NEW

La Dolce Vita C-4, Tērbatas 23/25, tel. (+371) 67

28 18 31, www.ladolcevita.lv. From the outside it’s hard to tell whether this place is a bar or an exclusive shop - the kind where men in black suits constantly give you the eye. Inside the feeling is similar, like you’re afraid to talk or break something, but the staff are friendly and can recommend Italian whites, reds and rosés with a side salad or maybe a prosciutto plate. The bare white walls are occasionally punctuated with a colourful modern painting. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A

British owned and managed Friendly, service-minded staff

Your home away from home! 17 kinds of local and imported beers and ciders on draught Live sports on Sky Sports on a large screen and numerous flat screen TVs Karaoke every Fri, Sat at 22:00. Jukebox, darts and table football Extensive, affordable menu including home-style Indian food made by Indian chefs. Late nite munchies until 02:00

NEW

Tinto C-4, Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 28 90 85.

Although this stylish wine bar and café with merlot coloured couches offers great views of passers-by on busy Elizabetes iela as well as the twisted bronze statues of the Riga cinema next door, it’s tucked away off of the street so you could pass by and never know it’s there. An early breakfast, delicious tapas like baba ghanoush and fried sardines, Spanish ham, cheese and olive platters and refined meat and seafood main courses are just a few reasons to dine here. A good selection of wine by the bottle or glass as well as top-shelf spirits like Maker’s Mark bourbon are also tempting. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 8Ls). A

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Grecinieku iela 4, Old Riga, Latvia. Tel: +371 67210150 Open daily 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:00

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What to see Essential Riga

Churches

Art Nouveau architecture B-3, Alberta 2, 2a, 4, 6,

Orthodox Cathedral (Pareizticīgo katedrāle) G-3,

Latvian Ethnographic Museum (Latvijas etnogrāfiskais brīvdabas muzejs) Brīvības gatve

St. Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Church (Sv. Aleksandra Ņevska pareizticīgo baznīca) C-4,

8, 13; Elizabetes 10a & 10b; Strēlnieku 4a. Visit the biggest gallery of Art Nouveau architecture by Russian architect Mikhail Eisenstein, father of the illustrious filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein who was born in Riga. Most of the buildings have now been renovated and of particular interest is the house at Strēlnieku 4a. Built in 1905 it has since undergone a complete facelift and is now home to the Stockholm School of Economics in Riga. Don’t miss the Riga Art Nouveau Museum at the end of Alberta iela, a must see.

440, tel. (+371) 67 99 45 15, www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv. 100 hectares of life as it used to be. Farmsteads, windmills, fishing villages, churches and other historic structures have been moved here and preserved for posterity. Watch craftsmen perform various tasks or try some Latvian cuisine and drink in the tavern. Take bus N°1 from the corner of Merķeļa and Tērbatas to the Brīvdabas muzejs stop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: 2Ls. RC

Riga Cathedral (Doma baznīca) H-1, Doma laukums,

tel. (+371) 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv. The largest place of worship in the Baltics, measuring 187 x 43m, with walls two metres thick, Riga Cathedral also has one of the biggest organs in Europe (6,768 pipes!). It was such a marvel in its day that Franz Liszt composed a piece of music in its honour. The drop from Cathedral Square (Doma laukums) to the church’s base shows how the level of the city has risen in the 800 years since its foundations were laid on the site of a Livonian fishing village. Unfortunately, the massive structure is in desperate need of repairs, hence the steel beams and other supports you’ll see around columns and just below the ceiling. The price of the ticket also includes access to its Romanesque cloister. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: 2Ls. RC

St. Peter’s Church (Pēterbaznīca) I-2, Skārņu

19, tel. (+371) 67 22 94 26, www.peterbaznica.lv. First mentioned in ancient chronicles in 1209, St. Peter’s was a Catholic church until 1523, when it turned Lutheran. Its wooden tower, the highest in Europe at that time, was destroyed several times. It first collapsed in 1666 and was rebuilt a year later. To see how long it would last, the builders hurled a glass from the top: the more pieces the vessel broke into, the greater the tower’s longevity. Alas, a pile of straw cushioned the glass’ fall and the spire burnt down one year later. Artillery fire destroyed the structure again in 1941. In 1973 it was finally rebuilt and the glass ritual was repeated, this time with smashing results. Take the lift to the observation platform for spectacular views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: tower 3Ls.

Brīvības 23, tel. (+371) 67 21 12 16. Built between 1876 and 1884, this yellow-brick church capped with five gilded cupolas was turned into a planetarium during the occupation but was finally returned to its congregation in 1990. The Soviets destroyed many of the church’s ornate works of art including wall and ceiling frescoes by the famous Russian painter Vereshchagin. Much of the cathedral has now been restored to its former glory. (08:00 and 17:00, Sat 07:00, 09:30, 17:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 17:00 - Church Slavonic)

Brīvības 56, tel. (+371) 67 28 32 01. Construction of this Classicist wooden building began in 1820 and was completed five years later. In 1862 its eclectic-style belfry was added. Yellow and round with a large green dome, it’s hard to miss it on the corner of Brīvības and Blaumaņa. Inside you’ll find three porticoes, beautiful icons and, unusually, a central altar in the middle of the room.

St. James Cathedral (Jēkaba katedrāle) H-1, Jēkaba

9, tel. (+371) 67 32 64 19, www.catholic.lv/katedrale. This church beside the parliament was first mentioned in ancient chronicles in 1225. In 1522, it became the first church in Latvia to hold a Lutheran service, but during a brief Polish occupation 60 years later it was returned to its Catholic flock, who have held it ever since. (08:00, Sun 09:00, 18:00 - Latvian) QOpen 07:00 - 19:00.

St. John’s (Jāņa baznīca) I-2, Skārņu 24, tel. (+371)

67 22 40 28. First mentioned in 1297 when it served as the chapel of a Dominican abbey, the monastery and church were closed during the Reformation in 1523. The building was used for a time as the city’s armoury, until it was taken over by a Lutheran congregation in 1582. During the building’s construction two monks were bricked into the southern wall and lived out their lives there, fed through the window grate. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Wed 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: donations.

St. Saviour’s (Anglikāņu baznīca) H-1, Anglikāņu 2a,

tel. (+371) 67 22 22 59, www.anglicanriga.lv. This little church commissioned by British traders living in Riga was built in 1857 on a shipload of English soil specially imported from the UK. Consecrated in 1859, the church was only full when British warships visited Latvia. Transformed into a student disco during Soviet times, it is once again a place of worship which is attended by Riga’s English-speaking expat population. Its pastor and his dedicated flock are also renowned for their charitable works. (Sun 11:00 - English)

The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia (Latvijas okupācijas muzejs) I-2, Strēlnieku laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 21 27 15, www.occupationmuseum.lv. Once a museum honouring the Latvian Red Riflemen, the building now houses a fascinating museum dedicated to the Nazi and Soviet occupations of Latvia. The various exhibits display the atrocities committed against the people of Latvia and the systematic destruction of their nation’s sovereignty. Visitors can walk into a reconstructed gulag barracks and catch a glimpse of the intolerable living conditions in Siberian labour camps. Exhibits are available in English, German, Latvian and Russian, but you can also choose to use an audio guide with headphones in English or German or just ask for a live guide. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: donations.

Riga In Your Pocket

Riga canal bridge

M.Zaprauskis

riga.inyourpocket.com

What to see

Museums Fire-Fighting Museum (Latvijas ugunsdzēsības muzejs) B-4, Hanzas 5, tel. (+371) 67 33 13 34. Set up in 1978 on the premises of a former fire station built in 1912, this museum displays the history of fire fighting in Latvia from the second half of the 19th century until the present. View fire fighting equipment, uniforms, flags, photographs and documents. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 0.20Ls. RC

History Museum of Latvia (Latvijas vēstures muzejs) H-1, Pils laukums 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 13 57, www.lnvm.lv. Visitors can view the evolution of Latvia and its people from the Stone Age to the present here. The exhibits display a variety of themes including Bronze Age artefacts, ancient currency, folk costumes and traditional farming tools. Of particular interest are the black and white still photos of farmers demonstrating their specialised tasks. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 0.50 - 1Ls. RC

Latvian National Museum of Ar t (Latvijas Nacionālais mākslas muzejs) F-3, Valdemāra 10a, tel. (+371) 67 32 44 61, www.lnmm.lv. Enter this time capsule and marvel at the red-carpeted marble stairs and gilt walls and ceiling, which display murals of Latvian landscapes. View classic paintings, drawings, watercolours and sculptures by the Latvian masters Rozentāls, Annuss, Valters, Padegs, Liberts and many more. Works by the famous philosopher, artist and explorer Nicholas Roerich and many other BalticRussians and Germans are also available. Postcards and reproductions of famous Latvian paintings are available for sale in the lobby. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Fri 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 1 - 3Ls. RC

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Latvian Photography Museum (Latvijas fotogrāfijas muzejs) I-2, Mārstaļu 8, tel. (+371) 67

22 27 13, www.fotomuzejs.lv. This small museum covers the development of photography in Latvia from 1839 - 1941. View antique equipment from the previous two centuries and the world’s largest exhibit dedicated to the famous Latvian produced Minox ‘spy camera.’ The first floor displays black and white stills of Latvians at work, war and play and key historic events. The top floor contains periodic local photo exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1.50 - 2.50Ls.

Latvian Railway Museum (Latvijas dzelzceļa muzejs) E-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. (+371) 67 23 28 49, www.railwaymuseum.lv. Retrace the tracks of rail history in Latvia in this museum run by Latvian Railways (Latvijas dzelzceļš). Inside the brick hangar you’ll find old photographs, antiquated machines and a few specimens of old wagons. Outside you can look at restored Soviet diesel and electric locomotives built in Ukraine and Russia as well as a German locomotive built in 1942 that no doubt became a spoil of war. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1Ls.

Latvian Sports Museum (Latvijas Sporta muzejs) I-2, Alksnāja 9, tel. (+371) 67 22 51 27, www.sportamuzejs.lv. This small museum housed in an historic medieval building traces the evolution of Latvian sport from the late 19th-century when cycling, swimming and wrestling were all the rage to the present day when hockey and other winter activities seem to dominate. Look at black and white photos, old medals, posters from the 1930s and some truly interesting memorabilia like world champion Uljana Semjonova’s enormous (men’s US 21/EU 58) basketball shoes! An excellent colour photo exhibit is available upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 0.50Ls.

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What to see Mentzendorff’s House (Mencendorfa nams) I-2, Grēcinieku 18, tel. (+371) 67 21 29 51, www.mencendorfanams.com. For fans of antiquity this fascinating historical house that once belonged to a wealthy Riga merchant is a must. Restored furniture, 18th century frescoes and a true medieval atmosphere are all here for your perusal. Not only can you see how the medieval rich lived in their fine apartments, but also how the servants toiled in the massive kitchen area. Guided tours in English and German available. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1 - 2Ls.

Museum of Decorative Art & Design (Dekoratīvās mākslas un dizaina muzejs) I-2, Skārņu 10/20, tel.

(+371) 67 22 22 35, www.lnmm.lv. Latvian textiles, ceramics as well as glass, wood and metal work are all housed in this gallery/museum. Formerly St. George’s church, it’s the oldest surviving religious stone building in Riga (13th century). You can also purchase local textiles, jewellery and other souvenirs here at its shop. Exhibitions usually cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2 - 3Ls. RC

Museum of Doll Art (Leļļu Mākslas muzejs) I-3,

Teātra 3, tel. (+371) 29 25 72 85, www.dollart.lv. This unique museum is scheduled to move to its new location on Teātra iela in Old Riga at teh beginning of October. View a variety of antique and modern dolls and stuffed animals from porcelain, plastic and rag dolls to classic Teddy bears. The oldest exhibition dates back to 1802 and the museum also explains the art of doll making over the past centuries. Educational seminars are also on offer. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: adults 2.50Ls, children 1Ls.

Activities, excursions & Tours Riga Bike Tours J-2, Kalēju

78, tel. (+371) 26 40 57 84, www.rigabiketours.lv. For €17 you can take a guided bike tour of Riga that includes the old town’s best sights, the city centre’s parks and art nouveau treasures as well as lesser-known areas like the port and the Moscow District. Daily tours begin at their office in Old Riga at 11:00 and 15:00. Q A Riga City Tour I-1, Rātslaukums, tel. (+371) 26 65 54 05, www.citytour.lv. Buy a ticket good for 48hrs for 10Ls and hop on and off the red double-decker Riga City Tour buses wherever and whenever you like. An audio guide in nine languages including English is also available. Tours begin at Rātslaukums. RC Riga Out There Tel. (+371) 29 38 94 50/(+371) 67 48 24 43, [email protected], www.out-there. eu. Offer daytrips to Sigulda, Jūrmala, Rundāle Palace and the Ethnographic Museum in Riga as well as nightlife tours of the Latvian capital. Also organise extreme sports excursions, airport transfers, accommodation and much more. Q A Segway Tours H-2, Torņa 4 (Jēkaba Kazarmas IIC), tel. (+371) 27 87 64 71, www.segway.lv. Avoid traffic or the exhaustion of walking! Join the modern age and take a tour of the city not on foot or by bus, but on a segway. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. A RC

Riga In Your Pocket

Latvian National Museum of Art

M.Zaprauskis

Museum of Pharmacy (Farmācijas muzejs) I-2,

Vāgnera 13, tel. (+371) 67 21 30 08, www.mvm.lv. The making of medicine used to be an art, judging from the exhibit in this historic home in Old Riga. Displays of porcelain containers, tools and century-old remedies trace the history of pharmacology in Latvia, and the authentic drugstore brings visitors back to the 1920s. It’s worth calling ahead to book a tour, because only then will the more obscure and even ominous aspects of prescribing and creating medicine be explained. Many of the antique packages and flasks contain their original contents, which in some cases are still potent. Just because the warning labels aren’t in a language you understand doesn’t mean you should try the drugs. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1Ls. RC

Museum of Riga’s History and Navigation (Rīgas vēstures un kuģniecības muzejs) H/I-1, Palasta 4, tel. (+371) 67 35 66 76, www.rigamuz.lv. Enter this unique museum and walk up the stairs to the first floor to discover temporary exhibitions from Latvia and abroad, as well as art and memorabilia from the days of the first Latvian Republic. The second floor displays Bronze Age artefacts and medieval curiosities, such as the sword used by Riga’s executioner in the 16th century and the mummified hand of an unlucky criminal. You can also take a peek at Riga Cathedral’s courtyard, which is also open to the public, from upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Admission: 3Ls. RC

Museum of Romans Suta and Aleksandra Beļcova (Romana Sutas un Aleksandras Beļcovas muzejs)

C-4, Elizabetes 57a - 26, www.vmm.lv. Head into the courtyard and take the stairs to the fifth floor to find this small, yet fascinating museum dedicated to a husband and wife that produced a wide variety of interesting art in the 1920s and 1930s. Romans Suta painted common scenes such as pub life, but is perhaps best known for his contribution to the world of design having created film sets, fashion and porcelain flatware. His wife Aleksandra was an accomplished painter who specialised in portraits. You can see period furniture, paintings, sketches and memorabilia in this restored apartment where they once lived. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1.50Ls.

Museum of War (Kara muzejs) H-2, Smilšu 20, tel.

(+371) 67 22 81 47, www.karamuzejs.lv. Latvia is one of the most war-ravaged countries in Europe. Crusader, Swedish, Polish, German and Russian armies have all left their mark. This museum of photos and memorabilia documents the struggles of the 20th century, from WWI and the war for independence up to and including the Nazi and Soviet occupations of WWII. One exhibition chronicles the development of the Latvian army from WWI until 1940. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: free.

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What to see Natural History Museum of Latvia (Latvijas Dabas muzejs) D-4, Barona 4, tel. (+371) 67 35 60 24, www. dabasmuzejs.gov.lv. One of Riga’s oldest museums has been renovated and modernised in recent years with interactive exhibits, informative touch screens and learning games for the kids. The second floor is dedicated to palaeontology and geology with mock-ups of ancient ecosystems and fossils under glass, while the third floor specialises in zoology with an unparalled taxidermy collection that includes everything from eagles to lions and even a giraffe. The fourth and fifth floors present exhibits relating to human evolution, marine biology, botany and entomology. An impressive hanging skeleton of a killer whale offsets gruesome exhibits of human skulls and foetuses. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1.20Ls. RC

Paul Stradin Museum of the History of Medicine (P. Stradiņa medicīnas vēstures muzejs) B-3, Antonijas 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 26 65, www.mvm.lv. Named in honour of the Latvian physician Pauls Stradiņš, this fascinating museum traces the medical practice throughout the ages. View straight jackets, old medical equipment, a recreated 19th-century pharmacy and plaques warning of smallpox. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1.50Ls. RC

Riga Art Nouveau Museum (Rīgas Jūgendstila muzejs) B-3, Alberta 12, tel. (+371) 67 18 14 65, www. jugendstils.riga.lv. This museum is housed in an apartment where one of Latvia’s best art nouveau architects once lived - Konstantīns Pēkšēns. The prolific artist and engineer who was responsible for the creation of no less than 250 buildings in Riga also designed this impressive edifice. The historic house was also home to the illustrious painter Janis Rozentāls and the writer Rūdolfs Blaumanis to whom another museum is dedicated on the top floor. View period furniture and artwork from one of the Latvian capital’s most creative eras. A must see. Don’t miss the grand staircase! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2.50Ls. RC

Riga Film Museum (Rīgas Kinomuzejs) I-2, Peitavas 10/12 (entrance from Alksnāju/Mazā Peitavas), tel. (+371) 67 35 88 73, www.nfc.lv. Although difficult to find, if you’re a film buff it’s might be worth the effort to visit this small museum hidden away in an Old Riga courtyard. Its main collection of memorabilia, photos and other movie history is available at an even less accessible location, but periodic exhibitions on interesting film topics are open to the public here year-round. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission: 0.50 - 2Ls (Wednesdays free).

Art nouveau on Alberta iela

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Boat cruises Canal boats For 3 - 5Ls you can

climb aboard a unique 100-yearold wooden launch (or a replica) and take a one-hour tour of the city from an unusual perspective - the Riga Canal. Although most people get on at Bastion Hill you can also wait for the electric launch every half hour below the Stockmann shopping centre and across the street from the Central Market and by Big Christopher on the Daugava River. The trip takes an hour before it returns to your original embarkation point, but you can get off at any of the other stops along the way between 09:00 - 23:00. Weather permitting, the boats usually operate until the end of October and sometimes into November. KMK Tel. 26 66 86 61, www.kmk.lv. Three boats are now available on the canal – the Darling, built in 1907, and its replicas the Maria and the Rebeka. Q

Riga Motor Museum (Rīgas motormuzejs)

Eizenšteina 6, tel. (+371) 67 09 71 70. If you’re an automobile aficionado or a fan of Soviet concrete architecture, then it’s definitely worth the trip to high rise suburbia. An eclectic collection of cars, from vintage Rolls Royces, BMWs and Mercedes’ to Soviet mechanical wonders can all be seen here, but don’t miss the wax figures of Stalin in his armoured ZIS 115 and Brezhnev at the wheel of his crashed Rolls Royce. Take bus N°21 from Brīvības to the Pansionāts stop in Mežciems. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: 1.50Ls.

Rīga Porcelain Museum (Rīgas porcelāna muzejs)

I-2, Kalēju 9/11 (Konventa Sēta), tel. (+371) 67 50 37 69, www.porcelanamuzejs.lv. The Konventa Sēta houses the only porcelain collection of its kind in the Baltics. The exhibit traces the rich history of porcelain manufacturing in Riga, chiefly started in 1841. An enormous red and gold vase dominates the exhibit, and is a standout not only because of its size, but because it was specially made for Riga on her 700th birthday in 1901. One room is filled with works from the Soviet era, when images of leaders were immortalised on vases. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 1Ls.

Sun Museum (Saules muzejs) I-2, Kungu 1, tel.

(+371) 67 22 55 87/(+371) 29 69 04 16, www.saulesmuzejs.lv. Iveta Gražule, the museum’s owner and curator, began collecting images of the sun with the purchase of a silver necklace ornament in Portugal in 1999. Over the years her collection grew so large that she finally decided to open a museum to house it. View 342 porcelain, metal, iron, wood, papier-mâché, coconut and glass wall decorations of the sun from 43 countries and six continents at Europe’s only sun museum. You can also paint your own plaster sun in the cellar workshop, which is included in the price of admission. Not surprisingly, the collection keeps growing as visitors send their own sun mirrors, clocks, plates and ceremonial masks from around the globe. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission: adults 2Ls, children free. TJ

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What to see Places of interest

Independence Day

Cat House (Kaķu māja) H-2, Meistaru 10/12. The Cat

On November 18, 1918, a group of Latvian intelligentsia declared their nation’s independence from the disintegrating Russian Empire. Dominated by foreign powers since the arrival of Teutonic knights at the end of the 12th century, Latvians finally had their own state. Unfortunately, rogue German military units and the new Bolshevik government in Russia didn’t take the declaration seriously and fighting continued until, with the help of the Polish and Estonian armies, all of Latvia’s enemies were expelled from the country in 1920. Independence Day is celebrated with various events and concerts in Riga, a military parade on 11.novembra krastmala and a speech by the Latvian president.

Parks & Cemeteries Bastion Hill (Bastejkalns) G-2, Separating Old Riga from the new centre. This hill was created from 1857 to 1859 to replace the old defensive sand bulwark. Within its precincts are memorial stones to five people killed by Soviet bullets during the January 1991 disturbances. Among the dead were camera operators documenting the stormy events. Despite the popular coverage of the Gulf War at the time, their footage was shown all over the globe, much to the chagrin of the Soviets.

Brothers’ Cemetery (Brāļu kapi) Aizsaules 1b. The

Cemetery of Heroes is the last resting place for the Latvian soldiers who died defending Latvia from 1915 - 1920. Built by Kārlis Zāle in the constructivist style of the 1920s with white tufa, you can’t miss the impressive statue of ‘Mother Latvia,’ who dominates an army of little graves. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Brāļu kapi stop.

Great Cemetery (Lielie kapi) A-6, between Senču,

Miera, Klusā and Klijānu. The Great Cemetery must have truly lived up to its name when it was a popular resting place for Riga’s elite in the 18th and 19th centuries. Unfortunately, many of the headstones were removed or destroyed during the Soviet period, but a large restored crypt built in 1777, German and Latvian family plots and the graves of Krišjānis Barons and Krišjānis Valdemārs have survived and are all worth a visit. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Mēness stop.

House is named for two black felines perched on the points of its towers. Not only did the beasts curse their first sculptor, he fatally fell while putting them up, but their purpose was to cause trouble. Roughly 100 years ago, the Latvian owner of the building was excluded from the powerful Big Guild across the road by its ethnocentric German occupants. He ordered the cats to be turned around, backside up, as an insult to his enemies. They were turned around after a lengthy court battle and he was eventually admitted to the Guild.

Central Market (Centrāltirgus) J-3, Centrāltirgus

iela, www.centraltirgus.lv. When construction was completed in 1930, Riga’s Central Market was one of the largest and most modern marketplaces on the European continent. Seventy years later, four of the five pavilions, which were used as zeppelin hangars during WWI, still serve their original function as meat, fish, produce and dairy markets. The bustling atmosphere also hasn’t changed much, although most of the hawkers are more reluctant to haggle than in the past. The markets spill out beyond the confines of the hangars and operate throughout the day, some longer than others. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Mon, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

Freedom Monument (Brīvības piemineklis) H-3,

Where Brīvības and Raiņa meet. ‘Milda,’ as she is affectionately known, was unveiled in 1935 and is a national shrine for Latvians. Designed by Kārlis Zāle, the friezes around the base of the sculpture depict Latvians singing, working and fighting for their freedom, while the three stars in the maiden’s hands represent the three historical regions of the country: Kurzeme, Vidzeme and Latgale. Locals are always placing flowers at the base of the monument, an act for which people were deported to Siberia in Soviet times. The honour guard changes every hour on the hour from 09:00 - 18:00.

Great & Small Guild Halls (Lielā & Mazā Ģilde) H-2,

Amatu 6 and Amatu 5. During the centuries of German economic domination, the guilds were Riga’s power brokers. The former, dating from 1384, was the home of the merchants, while the latter held the city’s artisans. These slightly different audiences are reflected in the respective usage of the buildings today: while the Great Guild is home to the Latvian Symphony Orchestra, its smaller cousin hosts conferences and the occasional disco.

House of Blackheads (Melngalvju nams) I-2,

Rātslaukums 7, tel. (+371) 67 04 43 00, nami.riga.lv/ mn. One of the architectural treasures of Riga, it was rebuilt in honour of the city’s 800th anniversary in 2001. Dating from 1344, it was destroyed in 1941. The Soviets completely pulled down the ruins in 1948, because it was considered to represent ‘decadent’ German architecture. A striking Gothic building with a Dutch Renaissance facade, it was used to house travelling, single members of the merchants’ guild. Many of its fantastic riches accompanied Baltic-Germans who repatriated to Germany in the late 1930s. The building is now open to the public. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2Ls.

Laima Clock (Laimas pulkstenis) H-2, Where Brīvības

Ribbit!

Riga In Your Pocket

M.Zaprauskis

and Aspazijas meet. Satiekamies pie Laimas pulksteņa - let’s meet at the Laima clock! The yellow-brown clock in front of the Freedom Monument has been a meeting place since it was erected by social democrats in 1924 so people wouldn’t be late for work. For decades it has advertised Laima chocolate, and many a sweet romance has started here. The famous clock was completely renovated some years ago.

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What to see Monument to the Repressed (Represēto piemineklis) Torņakalns train station. During the Soviet

occupation of Latvia, tens of thousands of men, women and children were ripped from their homes and sent to Siberia as slave labour. The most infamous dates for deportation are June 13 - 14, 1941 and March 25, 1949, when roughly 15,000 and 42,000 people, respectively, were abducted in the middle of the night. They were crammed into cattle cars for the long trip to destinations unknown. Few ever returned. A monument has been erected in memory of these people at the station from which many began their horrible journey. Take tram N°10 from Grēcinieku to the Torņakalna stacija stop. The monument is directly behind the station.

Old City Walls & Swedish Gate (Vecpilsētas mūris & Zviedru vārti) H-2, At the corner of Torņa and Aldaru.

This is the oldest remaining portion of the Old Town fortifications, the rest having been progressively knocked down because artillery made them obsolete. This fragment was built between the 13th and 16th centuries and restored during Soviet times, hence its rather ‘new’ appearance. It used to run between the Bishops’ Castle and the Castle of the Brothers of the Sword. At the end of Aldaru, is the Swedish Gate (Zviedru vārti), built in 1698 to celebrate the Scandinavians’ occupation of the city, and the only such structure left in Old Riga. The apartment above belonged to the city executioner or bende, who would put a red rose on the window ledge on the morning before a head rolled.

Powder Tower (Pulvertornis) H-2, Smilšu 20. Dating

back to the beginning of the 14th century, only the rock foundations remained after it was destroyed by invading Swedish troops in 1621. It was rebuilt in 1650 with 2.5m thick walls to protect its valuable contents inside and was obviously successful, as nine Russian cannonballs that hardly made a dent were later embedded in its walls by cheeky masons. At the end of the 19th century a German student fraternity bought the building, but today it’s part of the War Museum.

Riga Castle (Rīgas pils) H-1, Pils laukums 3. Built in 1330 as a base for the Livonian Order, the castle was destroyed several times during battles with the local townspeople. After the Order’s destruction, the various occupiers of the city housed their governors inside. Latvia’s first postCold War president Guntis Ulmanis made it his official office to continue the tradition begun by Latvia’s interwar presidents in the 1920s and 1930s. It also houses two museums.

Riga National Zoo (Rīgas zooloģiskais dārzs) Meža

prosp. 1, tel. (+371) 67 51 84 09, www.rigazoo.lv. Take a look at a wide variety of animals from around the globe including tortoises from the Galapagos, Japanese macaques, Bactrian camels, African zebras, lions, tigers, and giraffes, Asian red pandas and European bears, wolves and seals. The zoo also has a top-notch tropical house filled with rare birds, snakes, frogs and insects. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Mežaparks stop. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Admission: adults 4Ls, children 3Ls, free for children under four.

Salaspils 22km south-east of Riga. The memorial site of

a concentration camp where the Nazis murdered thousands of Jews and other ethnic groups, including Latvians, is outside of Riga city limits, but worth the trip. On the walls of a concrete structure, which now serves as the gateway to the camp, the words ‘The earth moans beyond this gate’ are inscribed. Half a dozen monumental statues symbolising hope and defiance are located here. A metronome eerily ticks in memory of the victims and the foundations of the barracks are still visible. Take a south-eastern train bound for Ogre, Lielvārde or Aizkraukle seven stops to the Dārziņi station.

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Old Riga window

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Three Brothers (Trīs brāļi) H-1, Mazā Pils 17, 19, 21, tel. (+371) 67 22 07 79, www.archmuseum.lv. The Three Brothers are the oldest stone residential buildings in the city and represent different stages in the architectural development of Riga, from medieval to Baroque. The oldest of the three is N°17 and dates back to the 15th century. The other two were built in the 17th and 18th centuries, respectively. The Riga Museum of Architecture is located in building N°19. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: free. Town Hall Square (Rātslaukums) I-2, Rātslaukums. The statue of St. Roland, Rīga’s patron saint, was erected in the centre of Town Hall Square in 1897, but was later moved to St. Peter’s after it was damaged in WWII. A replica now occupies its pedestal. Most of the medieval square was destroyed during the last war, but has now been rebuilt with mixed results. The reconstructed town hall on the northern side of the square is graced with a baroque tower and a postmodern roof and is now once again open for business.

Warehouse District (Spīķeru kvartāls) D/E-4, Be-

tween Maskavas, Turgēņeva and Krasta streets, www. spikeri.lv. Located just behind the Central Market these beautiful brick buildings were originally erected in the second half of the 19th century as part of a concerted effort to keep warehouses out of the city centre. After the massive market was created in the 1930s some of the buildings were reconstructed, but many still retain their original functional brick architectural style. The area between Maskavas and Krasta streets has been designated an area of urban revitalisation and restaurants, bars and galleries have opened here.

Riga Shines Every year around Latvia’s independence day festivities in November, Riga puts on an amazing light festival for a few nights which is seen by tens of thousands of people. Dozens of buildings throughout the city are illuminated with photographs, games, films and other artistic creations and the old town is usually flooded with people. The atmosphere is definitely festive and it’s a great night out for families, groups of friends or individuals who’d like a glimpse of something truly unique. This year’s celebration will begin on November 18 and will be visible every night until November 21. For more information about light installations and specific routes around the city visit www.staroriga. lv. Photo courtesy of the Riga City Council

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Lāčplēsis Day November 11, also known as Lāčplēsis Day, marks a turning point in Latvian history when the newly formed national army, with the help of civilian volunteers, won a decisive victory in 1919 over enemy troops driving them from Riga. Traditionally, the event, which honours the nation’s freedom fighters, is commemorated by lighting candles in apartment windows throughout the city and at the H-1, Riga Castle wall on 11.novembra krastmala.

Jewish Riga Great Choral Synagogue (Die Greise Hor Shul) D-

5, At the corner of Gogoļa and Dzirnavu, www.jews.lv. Although the colossal synagogue no longer exists, it’s worth the 10 minute walk from the train station to see what remains of this one-time place of worship and to meditate on one of the most beastly crimes committed during the Nazi occupation of Latvia. On July 4, 1941, hundreds of Jewish refugees from Lithuania and local Latvian Jews were herded into the basement of the synagogue which was then intentionally burned to the ground. Only ruins, a metal menorah and a memorial stone remain. A memorial to Žanis Lipke and other Latvians who saved hundreds of Jews is located next to it.

Jews in Latvia C-4, Skolas 6, tel. (+371) 67 28 34

84, www.jews.lv. Located on the third floor, this small, yet informative museum documents, in Latvian and English, the history of Jewish life in Latvia beginning with the 18th century. Visitors can discover the important role Jews played in Latvian society and the contributions they made to intellectual life, the arts and even sports. The exhibits are also a moving testimony to the suffering Latvian Jews experienced at the hands of the Nazis and Soviets. The last section of the museum entitled ‘The Jewish People Survived’ illustrates the triumphant rebirth of Judaism in Latvia after independence. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Admission: donations. NEW

Riga Ghetto Museum (Rīgas geto muzejs) E-4,

Maskavas 14a (entrance from Krasta). Although more of an outdoor monument with exhibits than a museum, this courtyard between Maskavas and Krasta streets is still worth a visit, especially if you’re interested in Jewish history. Its main feature is an ominously long wall covered with the names of victims of the Holocaust in Latvia. You can also look at Nazi propaganda, horrifying photos of tortured bodies, stills of ghetto life and grainy black and whites of old synagogues across the country, most of which no longer exist. A proper indoor museum is also in the works, but might not open for some time. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: donations.

Soviet Riga Latvian Riflemen Monument (Strēlnieku piemineklis) J-1, Strēlnieku laukums. In the centre of Old Riga stands a controversial statue in honour of the Latvian Red Riflemen, some of whom became Lenin’s personal bodyguards. Some view the monument as a symbol of the old communist system and would love to tear it down. Others believe it is a necessary tribute to Latvians who fought in the early years of WWI. Politics aside, it’s quite an impressive statue.

Pokrov Cemetery (Pokrova kapi) A-5/6, Mēness

3, www.pokrovskoe.lv. Although this old cemetery is seldom visited by anyone apart from the occasional animal enthusiast out to walk his dog, it’s a fascinating place to stroll about for an hour or so. Most of the headstones are from the 19th century and tell tales of tsarist bureaucrats who will be dearly missed, but a small section is also dedicated to fallen communist soldiers crowned by a large gold-coloured monument depicting a soldier carrying a Soviet flag. One bizarre stone also immortalises roughly a dozen orphans who were supposedly drained of their blood by the Nazis. The orthodox church and chapel are also worth a quick peek.

Riga Aviation Museum (Rīgas aviācijas muzejs) Airport (to the right of the terminal), tel. (+371) 26 86 27 07, aviamuseum.org. If you’re a fan of Tom Clancy novels or the Cold War in general, then this little known museum located to the right of the airport terminal is a must see when in Riga. Walk among Soviet helicopters and planes of varying age and size from MiG fighter jets to the enormous Mi-6 passenger helicopter which set world records for speed and hauling capacity. Its rotor has an unbelievable diameter of 36m! Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun by appointment only. Admission: 2Ls for locals, 5Ls for tourists.

Soviet Victory Monument (Uzvaras piemineklis) E-2, Over the Akmens Bridge in Pārdaugava. The Soviet war memorial which commemorates the supposed communist ‘liberation’ of Riga is the place to meet die hard reds on Soviet anniversary days. Built in 1985 to lionise the Red Army and to dishearten and annoy the Latvian populace, the monument consists of a tall concrete obelisk adorned with five golden stars symbolising the five years of WWII. On either side are bronze statues of Mother Russia and soldiers advancing with their weapons raised. Dozens of hectares of parkland surround this shrine to former Soviet glory. Take tram N°5 from 11. Novembra krastmala to the second stop over the Akmens Bridge.

Synagogue (Peitav Shul) I-2, Peitavas 6/8, tel.

(+371) 67 21 45 07, www.jews.lv. Built in 1905, this is the only surviving Jewish prayer house and the main meeting place for the 12,000-strong community. Although it was used as a warehouse during the Nazi occupation, its sacred scrolls and other treasures were hidden and escaped destruction. It is said that the building was not burned to the ground as others had been due to its close proximity to other houses in Old Riga. It’s been closed for renovations, but is due to open sometime this autumn.

Riga In Your Pocket

Riga Ghetto Museum

M.Zaprauskis

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Art nouveau in riga Art nouveau architecture is one of Riga’s claims to fame, and rightly so. Not to be confused, as it often is, with 1930s art deco that is so famously illustrated in the Chrysler and Empire State buildings of New York, the ‘new art’ or ‘new style’ often referred to as Jugendstil is a slightly older form of expression that gained popularity at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. Confused? A general rule of thumb is that if something looks sleek, angular and shiny it’s probably art deco, but if you’re faced with elaborate, flamboyant naked maidens, floral motifs and funky gargoyles, it’s most likely art nouveau. Over a third of all buildings in Riga are examples of this unique school of design which begs the question: why are there so many in the Latvian capital? The answer is actually quite simple. When art nouveau was at the height of its popularity, Riga just happened to be at the zenith of an unprecedented financial boom. This incredible wealth also coincided with an earlier lifting of a ban against erecting masonry buildings outside the city walls. In medieval times, all of the wooden buildings outside the ramparts would be razed to prevent an invading army from using them for shelter. By the mid19th century it finally dawned on the Russian authorities that ‘modern’ warfare had rendered the city’s ancient walls and fortifications obsolete. The result was an incredible era of construction that lasted much longer than the city’s recent boom that ended in disaster both aesthetically and financially speaking. One of the city’s most prolific art nouveau architects was Mikhail Eisenstein (1867 - 1921), father of the legendary Russian filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein who gave the world such cinematic treasures as Battleship Potemkin and Ivan the Terrible. He is best known for his collection of buildings on Alberta iela that is famous for its unusual sculptures, coloured bricks and tiles, geometric ornaments and uniquely shaped windows. Ethnic Latvians would also leave their mark on Riga and Konstantīns Pēkšēns (1859 - 1928) designed no less than 250 buildings including the iconic edifice at Alberta 12, which the architect once called home and that now houses the Riga Art Nouveau Museum. A founder of the Riga Architects Union and a Riga councilman, he embraced all of the styles of the times and moved on from the eclecticism so popular in mid to late-1800s Riga to art nouveau and later its offshoot, national romanticism. The latter was an attempt by Latvian architects to incorporate elements of ethnic mythology and folklore into their designs. But art nouveau wasn’t only relegated to the façades of the city’s buildings. The flowery style became a part of everyday life and was present in well-to-do homes in furniture, flatware and fashion and was commercially used in graphic design, most famously in advertisement posters. For a fascinating look at an art nouveau apartment where even the bathroom and kitchen are adorned with Jugendstil elements visit the Riga Art Nouveau Museum where the staff give tours dressed in period costume (see below).

Essential art nouveau Alberta iela (B-3) Nearly every building on this street is an art nouveau masterpiece and roughly half of them were designed by Mikhail Eisenstein including the buildings at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 13. The most stunning example is arguably the latter that boasts a massive woman’s face, a screaming woman, a satyr and large busts of crowned representations of lady liberty. The building at No.11 is a classic example of Latvian national romanticism designed by Eižens Laube in 1908, another prolific local architect of the age. You’ll also find a sphinx or two guarding entrances and windows shaped like old keyholes. The philosopher Sir Isaiah Berlin lived at No.2.

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Blaumaņa 28 (C-4) Punctuating the narrow space where Blaumaņa and Pērses streets meet at Barona, this classic art nouveau building designed by Karl Johann Felsko in 1903 looks like something only Bram Stoker or Mary Shelley could conceive. It’s covered in dragons, wolves and a variety of hideous gargoyles with gaping mouths – art nouveau’s dalliance in the macabre. Elizabetes 10a & 10b (F-2) Two of Eisenstein’s most iconic buildings can be found next to one another at the corner of Elizabetes and Antonijas streets. The blue façade on the left with the incredibly long faces at the top is one of the most photographed buildings in the city and the one on the right is no less impressive with it’s oddly shaped windows and smiling sun face under the balcony. The building across the street at No.33 is also his creation. Jauniela 25/29 (I-1) This massive yellow edifice that replaced several Old Riga buildings in 1903, stood nearly abandoned after independence until it was recently re-opened as one of the city’s premier design hotels – Neiburgs. It’s a blend of art nouveau and eclecticism and is famous for the enormous woman’s head hovering above the entrance. It was designed by a Riga architect with the decidedly German name of Wilhelm Ludwig Bockslaff. Kalēju 23 (I-2) One of Riga’s most beautiful buildings was the brainchild of Pauls Mandelštams, who is also considered to be the city’s first Jewish architect. You can’t miss its grand entranceway embellished with daisies and a hanging lamp made to look like a flower, not to mention the golden son above. Smilšu 2 (H-1) Built in 1902, this red brick building that looks like it has been overgrown by a forest of trees and flowers as well as mythical creatures is an early example of Konstantīns Pēkšēns conversion to the ideals of art nouveau. The naked figures of an Atlas-like man and woman growing out of tree trunks prop up the centre of the façade which is adorned with a stele of a peacock – a popular symbol of art nouveau. For more art nouveau treasures and our art nouveau video tour of Alberta iela visit www.inyourpocket.com/latvia/ArtNouveau-in-Riga_71844f.

More art nouveau Riga Art Nouveau Museum (Rīgas Jūgendstila muzejs) B-3, Alberta 12, tel. (+371) 67 18 14 65, www. jugendstils.riga.lv. This museum is housed in an apartment where one of Latvia’s best art nouveau architects once lived - Konstantīns Pēkšēns. View period furniture and artwork from one of the Latvian capital’s most creative eras. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2.50Ls. Art Nouveau Riga B-3, Strēlnieku 9, tel. (+371) 67 33 30 30, www.artnouveauriga.lv. The only shop in Riga to exclusively sell art nouveau merchandise. Buy small plaster faces from Riga’s most famous facades, silk scarves with art nouveau designs, mugs, greeting cards, books and linens. Naturally, it’s located at the end of Alberta iela opposite the Art Nouveau Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A

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Getting around Looking for cheap flights in Europe? Need to know how much a tram or trolleybus costs? Want to know what time a bus leaves for Liepāja or when to catch an overnight train to St. Petersburg? Read on.

Airline offices Aeroflot F-3, Skolas 9, tel. (+371) 67 24 02 26, www. aeroflot.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AeroSvit Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 75 02, aerosvit@

neonet.lv, www.aerosvit.com. Flights to Kyiv, Ukraine. airBaltic Airpor t, tel. (+371) 90 00 11 00 (toll call)/(+371) 67 00 60 06 (from abroad), www.airbaltic. lv. The Latvian national airline flies to dozens of destinations throughout Europe, the Middle East and Central Asia. QOpen 05:00 - 23:00. Also on C-4, Tērbatas 14. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Belavia Airport, tel. (+371) 67 32 03 14, www.belavia. by. Direct flights to Minsk. City Airline Tel. (+46) 31 60 03 85, www.cityairline. com. Flights to Gothenburg, Sweden. ČSA Czech Airlines Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 76 36, www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 06:45 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Finnair Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 70 10, www.finnair. com. LOT (Polish Airlines) Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 71 13, www.lot.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 15:30. Lufthansa Airport, tel. (+371) 67 50 77 11, www.lufthansa.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Norwegian Tel. (+371) 90 00 62 00, www.norwegian. no. Norway’s low cost airline offers cheap direct flights to Oslo and Trondheim. Ryanair www.ryanair.com. Europe’s leading budget airline now offers cheap direct flights between Riga and Bremen, Bristol, Brussels, Dublin, Dusseldorf (Weese), East Midlands (UK), Frankfur t (Hahn), Glasgow (Prestwick), Liverpool, London (Stansted), Milan, Oslo, Stockholm (Skavsta) and Tampere, Finland. SmartLynx Airport, tel. (+371) 67 20 73 92, www. smartlynxweb.com. A subsidiary of Icelandair Group that offers charter flights.

Tarom www.tarom.ro. The Romanian national airline offers

direct flights to Bucharest. Turkish Airlines H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 22, tel. (+371) 67 35 94 44, www.turkishairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at the airport, tel.(+371) 67 35 94 44. Open Wed, Fri, Sun 10:30 - 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sat. Uzbekistan Airways B-3, Elizabetes 11, tel. (+371) 67 32 45 63, www.uzairways.com. Direct flights to New York (JFK) and Tashkent. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Wizz Air www.wizzair.com. Flights to and from London (Luton), Oslo (Torp) and Turku, Finland.

Airport Airport (Lidosta) Tel. (+371) 1187 (toll call)/(+371)

29 31 11 87 (toll call from abroad), www.riga-airport. com. Riga international airport, known throughout the world as RIX, lies some 13km southwest of the city. The Airport Express shuttle stops at three different hotels (Hotel Riga, Nordic Bellevue and Monika) in the city centre and two hotels on the left bank of the river (Islande Hotel and ABC Hotel) every 30 minutes between 05:30 - 00:45. The trip costs 3Ls. Bus N°22 leaving from 13. janvāra will take you there for 0.70Ls (departure times - www.rigassatiksme.lv). The airport has undergone major improvements over the years and the latest upgrade includes a new terminal for low cost airlines. A TGIFriday’s is available at the far right of the airport and a LIDO Latvian restaurant is open on the top floor of the main terminal for those who want a last sip of a local beer or who just can’t stand airplane food. Latvian souvenirs from music CDs to local alcohol are available at a shop located on the other side of the security checkpoint. For more information visit its comprehensive website.

Car rental AddCar Rental Airport, tel. (+371) 26 58 96 74, riga@

addcarrental.com, www.addcarrental.com. An inexpensive alternative to the large brand name car rental agencies. Short and long term rental of new cars for travel in all three Baltic nations. Q A Auto Tel. (+371) 29 58 04 48, www. carsrent.lv. Only €40 - 50/day and an English-speaking driver can also be hired if you don’t feel like sitting at the wheel. It Days Dep Arr Ship Dep Arr Days also offers 24-hour reservation, unlimited From Riga Stockholm To Riga mileage and free delivery to any Riga ad17:30 09:30 Romantika* 17:00 11:00 dress. Q Open 24hrs. 17:30 09:30 Festival** 17:00 11:00 EgiCarRent Tel. (+371) 29 53 10 44, From Liepāja Travemunde+ To Liepāja fax (+371) 63 02 63 39, egicarrent@ 4,7 04:00 07:30 Kaunas 18:00 22:30 2 egi.lv, www.egi.lv. This car hire company Kaunas 20:00 23:30 5 specialises in Volvos including Volvo S80s From Ventspils Travemunde+ To Ventspils starting at as low as €27 per day. Free 2,5 04:00 07:30 Urd 18:00 22:30 3,6 delivery to any destination in Riga. Q From Riga Travemunde To Riga Open 24hrs. A 3,7 06:00 09:00 Baltic Amber 21:00 02:00 1,5 Europcar H-2, Torņa 4 - IIIC - 102, tel. From Ventspils Nynashamn To Ventspils (+371) 67 22 26 37, www.europcar. (Stockholm)+ lv. Q Also at the airport, tel. (+371) 67 2 00:01 10:00 Ask 10:00 22:05 1 20 78 25. A RC 3 09:00 19:00 Ask 19:00 07:05 2 Vintage Car D-5, E.Birznieka-Upīša 4 20:00 08:00 Ask 22:00 10:00 3 20, tel. (+371) 29 52 06 26, info@ 6 18:00 06:05 Ask 22:00 10:00 5 vintagecar.lv, www.vintagecar.lv. If 7 23:00 09:00 Ask 08:00 20:00 7 you’re looking for a unique experience and + Visit www.scandlines.lv for information about other destinations around the maybe also a glimpse into Latvia’s past, Baltic Sea. * Departs Riga on even days and Stockholm on odd days in October; why not rent a classic Soviet car? It won’t departs Riga on odd days and Stockholm on even days in November. ** Departs have an mp3 player, or power steering Riga on odd days and Stockholm on even days in October; departs Riga on even for that matter, but it will have plenty of days and Stockholm on odd days in November. Schedule subject to change. character.

Ferry schedule

Riga In Your Pocket

riga.inyourpocket.com

Getting around Ferries Ave Line Zivju 1 (Vecmīlgrāvis Terminal), tel. (+371) 29 44 49 99, www.aveline.lv. Ferries from Riga’s Vecmīlgrāvis terminal to Lubeck (Travemunde), Germany. Riga Passenger Terminal B-3, Eksporta 3a, tel. (+371) 67 32 62 00, www.portofriga.lv. If you’re travelling to Riga with Tallink from Stockholm then you’ll arrive here. Scandlines Ventspils, Dārzu 6, tel. (+371) 63 62 07 83, fax (+371) 63 62 06 90, www.scandlines.lv. Regular passenger and cargo ferries from Ventspils and Liepāja to Travemünde, Germany and from Ventspils to Nynäshamn, Sweden (60km from Stockholm). Tallink B-2, Eksporta 3a, tel. (+371) 67 09 97 00, www. tallink.lv. Tallink provides regular ferry service between Riga and Stockholm with two modern ships. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Also at D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Train station - Tunnel A). Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

Long-distance buses Bus Station (Autoosta) J-3, Prāgas 1, tel. (+371) 90 00 00 09, www.autoosta.lv. The bus station is open from 05:00 - 24:00. For information try the info centre (08:00 - 21:00) next to the main entrance. Riga is linked to major European cities in the East and West. The bus is quicker and cheaper than the train but they often fill up quickly, especially during the summer. Ticket counters 1 - 9 sell tickets to all local destinations. For buses to Kyiv, Moscow and Western Europe visit the international ticket office or starptautiskā kase next to the waiting room or contact the following: Ecolines J-3, Prāgas 1 (Bus station), tel. (+371) 67 21 45 12, www.ecolines.net. Buses to a number of destinations throughout Europe. QOpen 07:00 - 21:30. Also on C-5, Čaka 45, tel. (+371) 67 27 44 44. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Eurolines Lux Express J-3, Prāgas 1 (Bus station), tel. (+371) 67 78 13 50, www.luxexpress.eu. Try its luxury express buses to Tallinn and Vilnius that include free wi-fi, coffee and tea, toilet and a lounge in the back of the bus. Also operate routes to other cities in the Baltics, Poland and Russia. QOpen 06:40 - 22:00. A Nordeka Dzirciema 121, tel. (+371) 67 46 46 20, www.nordeka.lv. Operate both foreign and domestic bus routes. Tickets can be bought at the bus station any day of the week 08:00 - 23:00 (international). QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Parking You can park your car safely in one of many guarded parking lots or autostāvvietas. Prices vary. EuroPark G-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 8 (Jēkaba Arkāde), tel. (+371) 67 32 45 08, www.europark.lv. Offers parking lots of varying capacities throughout the city starting at 1.50Ls/hour or 4.50Ls/day. See website for more locations and prices. Q Also at F-3, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson BLU Hotel Latvija - entrance from Baznīcas); D-4, Stacijas laukums 4 (Origo); C-5, Lāčplēša 32; C-4, Pērses 2A. Open 24hrs.

Flight schedule You can fly direct from Riga to dozens of major cities including Dublin, London, Frankfurt, Moscow and even New York, not to mention more exotic locales such as Amman, Baku, Beirut, Dubai, Dushanbe and Tashkent. Best of all, Riga Airport has become a popular destination for a variety of European low cost airlines so you can buy tickets without losing your shirt. For a complete schedule and a complete list of airlines that service Riga visit www.riga-airport.com.

Public transport Riga has nine tram lines, 20 trolleybus routes and 54 bus routes that operate from as early as 05:00 to as late as 01:00, depending on the route. Buy a ticket from the driver for 0.70Ls or purchase a cheaper e-talons ticket for 0.50Ls beforehand at designated Riga Transport (Rīgas Satiksme) ticket offices, at public transport ticket machines or at Narvesen and Plus Punkts newsstands, post offices and Rimi supermarkets. If you’re planning on using public transport frequently then it’s more economical to buy a ticket for more than one trip or for a period of time. Passengers can choose from a wide variety of different ticket options which include tickets for one (0.50Ls), five (2.50Ls), 10 (4.75Ls) and 20 (9Ls) rides or tickets good for one (1.90Ls), three (5.70Ls) or five (9.50Ls) days of travel. The tickets are valid for trams, trolleybuses and city buses. If you buy an e-talons ticket you have to press it up against the electronic ticket readers on the bus or tram as soon as you board the vehicle. The green light will flash and the display will show you how many more rides are left on the card (e.g. Atlikums: 7). You can also take a mikroautbuss or mikriņš, passenger vans that list their destinations and route numbers on their windscreens. They are a scourge to urban transit as they’ll basically stop anywhere along their routes to pick up or drop off passengers causing delays and traffic jams. Pay the driver the fare, which varies depending on the route. Read more about routes and exact departure times in English on the Riga Transport Authority’s website www. rigassatiksme.lv. RC

Petrol stations Dinaz B-3, Hanzas 16b, tel. (+371) 67 33 34 84. 24-hour petrol station, shop and toilets. Q Open 24hrs. Also at A-4, Skanstes 7, tel. (+371) 67 37 35 58. A Statoil G-1, Eksporta 1c, tel. (+371) 67 32 50 66, www. statoil.lv. Petrol stations with shops and toilets. Q Open 24hrs. Also at A-5, K.Valdemāra 104, tel. (+371) 67 36 08 13; A-6, Brīvības 176a, tel. (+371) 67 31 69 48; D-5, Kurbada 8, tel. (+371) 67 24 42 63. A

riga.inyourpocket.com

A walk past St. Peter’s façade

M.Zaprauskis

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Getting around Long distance train schedule

International bus schedule

From Dep 07:12 13:00 16:14 17:25 18:30 10:30 16:50 16:20 18:50 06:32 13:54 18:15

From Dep 10:40 18:30 22:10 10:40 19:00 16:00 08:30 12:30 18:30 12:30 19:15 10:40 08:40 18:45 21:30 07:00 10:00 12:30 14:30 16:00 17:00 18:30 21:00 08:00 12:00 19:00 08:40 18:45 19:00 07:00 08:30 12:30 18:00 10:40

Riga Arr City 10:59 Daugavpils 16:40 (6,7) Daugavpils (6,7) 19:05 Daugavpils 21:07 Daugavpils 21:35 (5,7) Liepāja (1,6) 14:39 Ludza 21:07 Ludza 09:41 Moscow 09:00 St.Petersburg 09:48 Valga (Valka) 17:11 Valga (Valka) 21:23 Valga (Valka)

To Dep 06:15 13:08 07:17 17:53 06:00 04:12 16:26 18:59 20:55 05:10 11:42 17:29

Riga Arr 09:12 16:52 10:58 21:58 09:10 08:30 20:40 10:05 09:00 08:28 15:03 20:39

Trains to Sigulda, Cēsis, Valmiera, Jūrmala and Jelgava depart the central station frequently. Trains run daily except where noted otherwise (numbers in parentheses indicate days of departure; ex indicates days when there are no departures). For more times and destinations visit www.ldz.lv. Schedule subject to change.

Taxis All licensed cabs have special yellow licence plates. Insist on the meter being turned on. For shorter journeys try not to pay more than 3Ls. To avoid being swindled order a taxi by phone or use the cabs at the Radisson BLU Hotel Latvija or the Albert Hotel.

Baltic Taxi Tel. (+371) 20 00 85 00, www.baltictaxi.

lv. Run by the national airline airBaltic, this company charges a flat fee of 9Ls from the airport to anywhere in Riga and vice versa. Q A Lady Taxi Tel. (+371) 27 80 09 00, www.lady-taxi.lv. All cabs are driven exclusively by female drivers. Rīgas Taksometru Parks Tel. (+371) 80 00 13 13 (from fixed lines)/(+371) 8383 (from mobiles), www. rtp.lv. Q A Smile Taxi Tel. (+371) 22 57 76 77, www.smiletaxi.lv.

Tours & Travel Area Tours Tel. (+371) 29 58 04 48. A jolly Latvian man

will take you on English-language tours anywhere in the country with a car or van. Available day or night. Recommended. Impro C-4, Merķeļa 13 - 122, tel. (+371) 67 22 13 12, www.improtravels.lv. Offer guided tours of Riga and excursions around the Latvian countryside. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A

Riga To Riga Arr City Dep Arr 06:45 (ex7) Berlin** (ex2) 22:00 18:55 23:50 (5) Budapest** (3) 01:55 11:15 07:05 Kaliningrad* 21:00 06:00 16:15 (ex7) Kaunas** (ex3) 15:05 18:55 23:30 Kaunas* 04:50 09:20 10:00 (ex3) Kyiv** (ex3) 19:00 13:00 13:00 Klaipeda* 07:00 11:55 17:00 Klaipeda* 14:00 18:30 12:35 (5) Krakow** (3,7) 14:15 11:15 08:10 (2,5) Lviv* via Vilnius (7) 18:10 17:00 10:40 Moscow** 20:30 09:30 08:50 (2,5) Prague** (1,5) 09:00 11:15 21:10 St. Petersburg* 09:00 20:05 06:10 St. Petersburg* 11:55 21:25 11:00 St. Petersburg** 20:10 08:30 11:25 Tallinn* 00:30 05:10 14:25 Tallinn* (ex6,7) 05:45 10:00 16:55 Tallinn* 07:00 11:15 18:55 Tallinn* 08:30 12:50 20:25 Tallinn* 10:00 14:15 21:25 (ex6,7) Tallinn* 12:45 17:00 22:55 Tallinn* 15:45 20:05 01:15 Tallinn* 18:30 22:55 12:15 Tallinn** 06:30 10:30 16:15 Tallinn** 14:00 18:10 23:15 Tallinn** 19:00 23:15 12:35 Tartu* 06:45 10:45 22:40 Tartu* 17:45 21:25 22:55 Tartu** 06:30 10:30 10:55 Vilnius* 06:30 10:50 12:40 Vilnius* 12:30 17:00 17:00 Vilnius* 14:15 18:15 22:15 Vilnius* 18:30 22:25 14:40 (ex1) Vilnius** 11:25 18:55 (ex1,3) 10:40 22:55 (ex7) Warsaw** (ex3) 06:15 18:55 19:00 07:00 Warsaw* 19:30 09:20 Buses run daily except where noted otherwise (numbers in parentheses indicate days of departure; ex indicates days when there are no departures). * Indicates Lux Express, Simple Express or Eurolines ** Ecolines For more destinations visit either www.luxexpress.eu or www.ecolines.lv. Schedule subject to change.

Trains Central Station (Centrālā Stacija) D-4, Stacijas lau-

kums, tel. (+371) 1181. Tickets for immediate departures have to be bought in the main ticket hall on the right side of the main entrance, counters N°1 to 13. Tickets for international trains are sold at counters N°1 to 6. For overnight trips to Minsk or St. Petersburg choose the more luxurious coupe, four-bunk compartments or, on the train to Moscow, the first class SV, two-bunk compartments, with video and on-board service. Do not confuse perons (the platform) and ceļš (the track). They are numbered separately in Latvia and can be quite confusing. Pietur means stops and nepietur means doesn’t stop, so if you see a train schedule with a list of towns and cities in the margin, it is best to check whether the train stops there or not. QOpen 05:00 - 24:00.

Latvian Railways (Latvijas Dzelzceļš) D-4, Gogoļa Hanging out by the Daugava

Riga In Your Pocket

M.Zaprauskis

3, tel. (+371) 1181/(+371) 67 23 11 81 (from abroad), www.ldz.lv.

riga.inyourpocket.com

Mail & Phones Like most Europeans, Latvians are absolutely mad for new technological gadgets and most locals wouldn’t be caught dead with last year’s mobile phone. Wireless internet is also sweeping the nation and even the post office has been modernised, excluding, of course, some of its elder staff that still insist on barking orders at patrons.

Express mail Cargobus D-4, Gogoļa 13 (entrance from Puškina), tel.

Post Central Post Office H-3, Brīvības bulv. 32, tel. (+371) 67 50 28 15/(+371) 67 00 80 01, www.pasts.lv. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Post Office F-3, Elizabetes 41/43, tel. (+371) 67 33 16 09. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Public telephones

(+371) 67 22 55 66, www.cargobus.eu. A reliable, quick way to send parcels of any size in the Baltic region. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A DHL Mārupe, Plieņciema 35, tel. (+371) 67 71 55 00, www.dhl.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A big company, but sadly it can’t guarantee delivery dates. TNT Latvia Mārupe, Plieņciema 11, tel. (+371) 67 66 80 00, www.tnt.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Public telephones are all over town. Telephone cards worth 2, 5 and 10Ls can be bought at any post office or newsstand. Cards and digital telephone booths are also available throughout the countryside. It’s also possible to call to a phone booth and pay with your credit card. The number of each booth and dialling instructions are listed inside. Each phonebooth is a wi-fi hotspot so look inside for directions on how to get wireless internet within a 100m of the phone.

Internet cafés

Telephone

Elik H-2, Kaļķu 11, tel. (+371) 67 22 70 79, www.elik-

The explosive demand for phone numbers has prompted the government to move from a seven-digit to an eightdigit system. A 2 now precedes all mobile phone numbers and a 6 has been added to all fixed numbers. Lattelecom directory inquiry: tel. (+371) 1188.

kafe.lv. Almost 100 computers with internet for 0.85Ls/hour in the old town and above the McDonald’s near the station. Q Also at D-4, Merķeļa 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 17 82. Open 24hrs.

Mobile phones

Wireless internet

Bite C-4, Brīvības 62, tel. (+371) 80 00 16 01, www.

Paid & Free wi-fi If you’d like to check your e-mail or just

bite.lv. Pre-paid GSM phone cards. LMT I-2, Tirgoņu 13, tel. (+371) 80 00 00 76/(+371) 67 77 37 00, www.lmt.lv. Good service, but pricey. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tele2 G-3, Merķeļa 21, tel. (+371) 29 56 06 00, www. tele2.lv. Cheap, but the network coverage could be much better! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

riga.inyourpocket.com

surf the net while sipping a cappuccino or beer then all you have to do is find a café with the Lattelecom Wi-Fi symbol and purchase a card behind the bar. If however you’re on a tight budget you’ll be happy to know that many hotels offer free wireless internet access in their rooms, restaurants and bars. Just look for the W symbol in this guide to find venues with free wireless access.

October - November 2010

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Shopping Alcohol & Tobacco

Books

Latvijas Balzams I-2, Audēju 8, tel. (+371) 67 22 88

Globuss I-3, Vaļņu 26, tel. (+371) 67 22 69 57, www.

14, www.lb.lv. Over 50 different Latvian alcoholic beverages including the famous Rīga Black Balsam. Also sells Balzams tshirts. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also on H-2, Šķūņu 16; H-2, Vaļņu 21; ; and many other locations. A Tabakas Nams (Tobacco House) H-2, Vaļņu 8, tel. (+371) 67 22 58 97, www.tng.lv. Alcohol and plenty of cigars. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Also at B-4, Dzirnavu 31; C-4, Brīvības 37. A

Antiques Antikvariāts C-5, Avotu 31, tel. (+371) 29 71 55 50.

Art books, ancient vinyl records, ceramics, money and plenty of WWII memorabilia including uniforms, medals and even helmets. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Antikvariāts Avots C-5, Avotu 8, tel. (+371) 29 48 15 68. Small shop offering a bit of everything including paintings, porcelain, books, old records, Soviet medals, a great selection of antique postcards and even vintage handbags. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Antikvariāts Desaret I-1, Palasta 9 (entrance from Jauniela), tel. (+371) 67 22 51 88. This small shop offers a bit of everything including Soviet medals, paintings, old postcards, books, jewellery and lots of porcelain. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Antiqua I-3, Vaļņu 25, tel. (+371) 67 22 59 30. Lithographs, maps, paintings, sculpture, books, furniture and fine arts. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija C-4, Dzirnavu 53, tel. (+371) 67 28 29 78. Soviet memorabilia, books, coins and assorted nick-nacks. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Konvents I-2, Kaļķu 9/11 (Koventa Sēta), tel. (+371) 67 08 75 42. Antique furniture, books, icons and porcelain. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A Raritāte C-5, Čaka 45, tel. (+371) 67 27 51 57. Icons, Riga porcelain, paintings, coins, stamps, silverware and furniture. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Volmar I-1, Krāmu 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 42 78. Paintings, religious icons, porcelain, memorabilia and much more. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A

Markets Central Market J-3, Centrāl-

tirgus 1, tel. (+371) 67 22 99 85, www.centraltirgus.lv. This giant bazaar with its five huge aircraft hangars is a truly fascinating place to visit. Buy meat, fish and produce inside or CDs, appliances and clothing outside of the hangars for suspiciously low prices. Opening hours differ slightly for each pavilion. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Flower Market G-3, Tērbatas 2a. The biggest selection of flowers from near and far. Q Open 24hrs. Latgales Market D-5, Sadovņikova 9a, tel. (+371) 67 22 39 55. If you’ve had something stolen on your visit to Riga, you can probably buy it back here for a fraction of what it originally cost you. You’ll also find anything from power drills to army uniforms, not to mention suspiciously cheap music and software. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Riga In Your Pocket

gramatnicaglobuss.lv. A large selection of of classic English-language literature as well as a some contemporary novels. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A Jāņa Rozes C-5, Blaumaņa 31, tel. (+371) 67 24 04 13, www.jr.lv. A decent selection of contemporary and classic literature in English upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Jāņa Sēta C-4, Elizabetes 83/85, tel. (+371) 67 24 08 94, www.mapshop.lv. Latvia’s largest selection of maps and travel books, not to mention a wide variety of In Your Pocket guides. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A RC Jumava C-4, Dzirnavu 73, tel. (+371) 67 28 25 96, www.jumava.lv. Some English-language novels and travel guides as well as a good selection of antique books. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Robert’s Books B-4, Antonijas 12 (entrance from Dzirnavu), robertsbooksriga.com. Owned and operated by a Riga expat, this shop sells second-hand English language books. You can find anything from guidebooks and romance novels to award-winning contemporary literature for 1, 3 or 5Ls. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Valters un Rapa H-3, Aspazijas 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 74 82, www.valtersunrapa.lv. This book shop on three floors is probably the biggest in the Baltics. Mostly Latvian and Russian books, as well as local maps and guides like this one and some literature in English and German. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A

Fashion Pērle B-5, Tērbatas 65. This funky vintage clothing shop

and bar is co-owned by a former MTV VJ who can occasionally be seen here with her glitterati acquaintances. If you like the musty smell of old clothes and shoes, then stick around for a drink. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Retro Spectro H-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 12, tel. (+371) 20 05 30 98. Located on the premises of the hip, alternative club Nabaklab, this retro shop sells vintage clothing and music by local underground bands. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

Games & Toys Lāčuks C-5, Čaka 72, tel. (+371) 67 31 18 48, www.

lacuks.lv. Barbie dolls, remote control cars, stuffed animals, a wide selection of puzzles, children’s in-line skates and much more on three floors. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Also on I-2, Grēcinieku 3, tel. (+371) 67 22 84 95. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. A Lelle C-4, Barona 23, tel. (+371) 67 28 32 18. An excellent selection of learning toys, games and dolls. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A

Gifts & Souvenirs Amber Line H-2, Torņa 4 (Jēkaba kazarmas), tel. (+371)

67 32 50 58, www.amberline.lv. Designer amber jewellery for all budgets set in silver, gold, platinum, steel and even titanium. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Also at H-2, Šķūņu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 00 79; D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo), tel. (+371) 67 07 39 31; H/1-2, Tirgoņu 17, tel. (+371) 67 21 52 86; Audēju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 67 10 44 57; and four other shops on H-2, Torņa 4 (Jēkaba kazarmas). A

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Shopping What to buy in Latvia Amber The petrified sap isn’t as plentiful as it is in Lithuania or Kaliningrad, but it still washes up on Latvian beaches. It’s sold in all souvenir shops and there are dozens of amber stalls behind St. Peter’s Church, on Vaļņu iela behind Hotel Riga and on Līvu laukums. Antiques You can find antique shops in and around Old Riga. If you’re looking for good deals on old unpolished, unframed materials, try the shops on C-5, Avotu iela between Ģertrudes and Matīsa streets. Art Nouveau souvenirs Nothing screams Riga like a screaming gargoyle. Buy Art Nouveau silk scarves, postcards, ceramic dishes, books and plaster busts based on beautiful heads seen on the city’s best early 20th-century facades at Art Nouveau Riga, B-3 Strēlnieku 9. Designer handbags Una Vita produces fashionable handbags made from llama, cow and goat leather and wild fox, beaver and mink furs that are legally harvested here in Latvia by local hunters. Visit Una Vita (D-5, Lāčplēša 87E, www.unavita.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun) or its website for more information. Eco-Medications Although by no means a typical purchase, the people at Silvanols Ltd., a local pharmaceutical company, produce a wide range of 100% natural food supplements, medications and vitamins, some of which are based on local folk remedies. Buy these Latvian-made products at any pharmacy in Riga or visit www.silvanols. lv for more information. Honey The Latvians revere their honey (medus) like the French do their wine and even claim that it has healing properties so taste some for free at The Honey Room (I-2, Pēterbaznīcas 17. Open 10:00 - 19:00). Lingerie Latvia’s beautiful and sexy women are legendary, so perhaps it’s not surprising that the nation also has a major lingerie producer. Visit Lauma Lingerie (I-2, Kaļķu 2, tel. (+371) 67 22 10 53, www. lauma.lv) in Old Riga. Local food The following can be found in any supermarket: Latvian rye (rupjmaize) and sourdough (saldskābmaize) breads are delicious and easily transported. Latvian smoked cheese, carraway seed cheese and the Talsu ritulis marinated in herbs are all classic cheeses worth taking home. Sprats (šprotes) in oil, similar to sardines, are the perfect snack to go with the Latvian vodka you bought. Music Music is absolutely essential to Latvian life. Upe (I-2, Vāgnera 5. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun) has the best selection of Latvian folk, rock and classical CDs in Riga as well as wooden toys and instruments. Riga Black Balzams Originally intended as a cure-all elixir, Balzams has been made in Riga since the late 18th century and is still used today to alleviate hangovers and stomach-aches and as the main ingredient in many local cocktails. Consisting of over 24 herbal ingredients, it looks like used motor oil and is sold in charming ceramic jugs. Try it in coffee or currant juice. Soviet memorabilia Cheap nick-knacks, coins, medals and busts of Lenin? Buy all the red remnants you crave in most antique shops around town. Sweets The Laima factory in Riga has been producing delicious chocolates since 1870. They can be found in any supermarket or at Laima shops around town.

Riga In Your Pocket

Art Nouveau Riga B-3, Strēlnieku 9, tel. (+371) 67 33

30 30, www.artnouveauriga.lv. The only shop in Riga to exclusively sell Art Nouveau merchandise. Buy small plaster faces from Riga’s most famous facades, silk scarves with Art Nouveau designs, mugs, greeting cards, books and linens. Naturally, it’s located at the end of Alberta iela opposite the Art Nouveau Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A RC Līvs I-2, Kalēju 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 90 10. Excellent selection of rings and necklaces modelled after ancient Latvian jewellery. Also have a wide variety of woven items. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Mājas Deko I-2, Jāņa 5, tel. (+371) 67 61 75 99, www.majasdeko.lv. This designer’s workshop specialises in creating unique textiles and other interior design elements for your home and they can add any pattern or picture to lampshades, pillows or paper. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Senā Klēts I-1/2, Rātslaukums 1 (entrance from Mazā Jauniela - Rātes pasāža), tel. (+371) 67 24 23 98, www.senaklets.lv. The only shop in Latvia to specialise in authentic Latvian folk costumes also sells a wide variety of traditional souvenirs such as Baltic jewellery, ceramics, wool blankets, linen tablecloths and much more. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Tornis I-2, Grēcinieku 11-2 (entrance from Pēterbaznīcas), tel. (+371) 67 22 02 70, www.balturotas.lv. What do Hillary Clinton and Queen Margareth II of Denmark have in common? They have both bought jewellery here. Ancient Baltic designs as well as modern pieces can all be found at the ‘Tower.’QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A

Jewellery Frey Wille H-2, Vaļņu 10, tel. (+371) 67 21 30 17,

www.frey-wille.com. This international chain of designer jewellers with shops in Los Angeles, London and many other world capitals has finally opened a shop in Riga. Buy modern, colourful gold and enamel jewellery inspired by art from ancient civilisations and more contemporary masterpieces by such names as Monet, Klimt and Mucha. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A

Music Randoms I-2, Kaļķu 4, tel. (+371) 67 22 52 12, www. randoms.lv. Pop, Latvian, Russian, world, folk, heavy metal and alternative rock music, not to mention souvenirs including pricey t-shirts lampooning local politicians. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A Upe H-2, Vāgnera 5, tel. (+371) 67 22 61 19, www. upett.lv. This shop sells folk music from around the globe including Latvian CDs as well as traditional instruments and souvenirs. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Shopping centres Berga Bazārs C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 / Marijas 13, tel.

(+371) 67 50 23 10, www.bergabazars.lv. Riga’s swankiest shopping courtyard offers high-end shops, restaurants, cafés, a fitness club and a bi-monthly food and antique bazaar every second and fourth Saturday of the month. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A Galerija Centrs I-3, Audēju 16, tel. (+371) 67 01 80 18, www.galerijacentrs.lv. Already a shopping centre in the 1920s and 1930s, it was renovated in the 1990s and most recently in 2006. It now occupies nearly an entire block of Old Riga and houses cafés, a supermarket, and dozens of trendy shops. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Rimi, Narvesen open 08:00 - 22:00. A

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Shopping

COMING SOON

Supermarkets

This Norwegian shopping centre on several floors is scheduled to open at the end of October with dozens of shops never before seen in Latvia as well as a food court, restaurants and a rooftop terrace right in the centre of Riga. Q A Latvija Shopping Arcade C-4, Elizabetes 55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija). A variety of shops that sell anything from souvenirs and home wares to gourmet delicacies and fast food hot dogs. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Origo D-4, Stacijas laukums 2, tel. (+371) 67 07 30 30, www.origo.lv. Straddling the central train station, this vast shopping centre on three floors offers countless shops with everything under the sun. Includes a supermarket (open 07:00 -24:00) and a few restaurants. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Gastronome C-4, Brīvības 31, tel. (+371) 67 22 80 53,

Galleria Riga C-4, Dzirnavu 65, www.galleriariga.com.

Speciality shops desa&co D-4, Maskavas 4 (Spīķeri), tel. (+371) 67 21 61 86. This shop and bistro specialises in meat products like venison sausages, fillets and even pâté made from farm-raised deer. You can also eat some of the food on the premises. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. AS Hanumans C-5, Barona 56, tel. (+371) 67 27 41 42. Head down to the cellar of the Hare Krishna house to buy chutney, curry paste, exotic spices and even refrigerated ghee as well as incense, silk scarves and Indian trinkets. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. A Monte Kristo C-4, Ģertrūdes 27, tel. (+371) 67 31 63 61. Offers a huge selection of coffee beans, coffee blends and tea. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Also on B-4, Elizabetes 10, tel. (+371) 67 28 32 71. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Muhamors - Marcipāns B/C-4, Baznīcas 14 (entrance from Lāčplēša), tel. (+371) 29 14 67 10. Part café, part art gallery and part souvenir shop, you can buy all kinds of funky things here like ceramic lamps that look like mushrooms, palm oil candles, buckwheat pillows and fashion accessories. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Otrā Elpa (Second Wind) C-4, Marijas 13 (Berga Bazārs), tel. (+371) 67 28 71 72. This shop sells second hand clothes, electronics, toys, board games, LPs, DVDs, books (some even in English) and lots of other stuff. Proceeds go to local charities. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A

The Honey Room (Daugmales Jāņa bišu medus)

I-2, Pēterbaznīcas 17, tel. (+371) 26 99 94 42, www. daugmalesmedus.lv. This charming Old Riga shop offers beeswax candles and nearly a dozen different varieties of honey including buckwheat, heather and linden blossom honeys that can be bought by the small jar or the bucket. You can also taste them on the premises while admiring the rare 17th-century ceiling fresco above. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A

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www.mc2.lv. The first boutique market and deli in Latvia. Buy exotic tea, gourmet coffee, a fresh baguette, loads of spices, a t-bone steak and a kilo of prawns or just have a seat with a glass of wine and a cheese platter. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also on Krasta 68a (mc2 shopping centre), tel. (+371) 67 00 68 68. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A Rimi D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo), tel. (+371) 67 07 30 90, www.rimi.lv. This large chain of Western supermarkets sells nearly everything a supermarket should, but the hypermarkets on the outskirts of town are still your best bet for service and selection. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Also on I-3, Audēju 16, tel. (+371) 67 01 80 23. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A Stockmann I-3, 13. janvāra 8, www.stockmann.lv. The deli counter is fantastic and the meat section actually offers real cuts of beef including steaks. It also stocks products you won’t find anywhere else in Riga like Chips Ahoy cookies, Campbell’s soup, Stovetop stuffing and Betty Crocker cake and brownie mix. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A

Sweets Emihls Gustavs Chocolate C-4, Marijas 13/VI (Berga bazārs), tel. (+371) 67 28 39 59, www.sokolade.lv. Friendly staff are keen to offer useful suggestions on sinfully rich chocolates to eat on the premises or to take away. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Also on H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 83 33. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00; and at most shopping centres. A Laima B-5, Miera 22 (factory outlet), tel. (+371) 67 37 05 54, www.laima.lv. Latvia’s largest chocolate maker has outlets all over the city, but you can all buy its products at local supermarkets. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo). Open 10:00 - 22:00. A

Wine shops Arka C-4, Tērbatas 10/12, tel. (+371) 67 28 48 26. Fine

wines and cognac from around the globe. Decent selection of Australian, Italian and South African wines. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Eirovīns H-2, Smilšu 14, tel. (+371) 67 22 44 41, www. eirovins.lv. Good selection of wine from around the globe. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at F-3, Dzirnavu 51, tel. (+371) 67 22 89 83. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. A Ervins & Filles C-4, Dzirnavu 84 (Berga Bazārs), tel. (+371) 67 28 70 45. Specialises in French boutique wines. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A

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Sports & leisure Bowling Bowlero Lielirbes 27, tel. (+371) 67 80 46 00, www.

bowlero.lv. This ultramodern entertainment centre offers 24 bowling lanes (6 - 10Ls depending on time), pool tables, a bar, a children’s room and an upmarket restaurant. QOpen Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. TA RC Islande C-2, Ķīpsalas 20, tel. (+371) 67 60 80 16, www. islandehotel.lv. Six lanes in the cellar of the Hotel Islande for 5.90 - 9.90Ls/hour. A bar and two pool tables are also available. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00. A Toss Ķengaraga 6, tel. (+371) 67 13 59 00, www.toss. lv. 24 lanes (4.80 - 9Ls/hour) as well as pool tables, darts, a restaurant and a bar. Take tram N°7 or 9 to the Ķengaraga iela stop. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Zelta boulinga centrs E-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. (+371) 67 61 07 07, www.zelta.lv. 22 lanes for 5.99 - 10.49Ls/hour, four squash courts, one tennis court, 11 pool tables, indoor mini-football, arcade games and a bar/restaurant. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 13:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Curling Kērlinga halle (Curling Hall) Biķernieku 121h, tel. (+371) 29 53 53 79/(+371) 67 56 56 51, www. kerlingahalle.lv. Riga’s only curling hall! Take trolleybus N°18 from Čaka to the Eizenšteina iela stop. Closed from May - September.

Entertainment centres Brazīlija Jūrkalnes 100, tel. (+371) 25 40 00 00, www.

brazil.lv. This indoor beach sports centre offers beach volleyball, football and tennis courts for 15 - 25Ls/hour as well as a café/bar and a children’s area. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. A Go Planet G. Astras 2b, tel. (+371) 67 14 63 46, www. goplanet.lv. Explore 15,000m2 of indoor attractions including go-carts, a laser tag labyrinth, a Formula 1 simulator, a 4D cinema, virtual reality gear, pool tables, children’s games and more. Three bars, a kids’ cafe and a restaurant are also at your disposal. Take trolleybus N°17 or N°23 from the Central train station to the ‘Mēbeļu nams’ stop and walk up one block. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. A

Fitness clubs & Gyms A-Step B-4, Stabu 14, tel. (+371) 67 28 95 67, www.

a-plus-s.lv. Aerobics, PACE, sauna, weight room, etc. for reasonable prices. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. A City Fitness C-4, Marijas ielā 13/8 (Berga Bazārs), tel. (+371) 67 28 85 85, www.cityfitness.lv. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Also at D-2, Kuģu 24 (Radisson Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 0611 24. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A Joker klubs A-3, Katrīnas 12, tel. (+371) 67 09 98 00, www.jokerklubs.lv. Although the gym is available from the early morning hours, the pool is usually only open from 10:00 and even later at the weekend. See website for exact times. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AC

Olympic Spor ts Centre (Olimpiskais spor ta centrs) A-4, Grostonas 6b, tel. (+371) 67 38 77 10,

www.ocriga.lv. A modern, state-of-the-art sports centre for swimming, football, basketball, tennis, aerobics, gymnastics and many other disciplines. A café is also available. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 22:00.

Riga In Your Pocket

Hockey: Dynamo Riga The Kontinental (sic) Hockey League, the successor to the Russian Super Hockey League, may not be as prestigious as the NHL in North America, but like most things Russian, its sheer scope is enormous. Spread out over a dozen time zones, the league also includes three teams from beyond the borders of the Russian Federation. Dynamo Riga (Latvia), Dynamo Minsk (Belarus) and Barys Astana (Kazakhstan) will compete with 21 Russian teams in the 2010-2011 season. Many of the teams have adopted or kept their Soviet-era names, hence all of the dynamos, locomotives and metallurgists. Most Dynamo Riga home games take place at Arena Riga, A-4, Skanstes 21, www.arenariga.com. Tickets can be bought at the arena or at Biļešu serviss (www.bilesuserviss.lv) outlets throughout the city. Unfortunately, the October exhibition game against the Phoenix Coyotes was sold out in 13 minutes, but you could try to buy tickets from scalpers at the arena. For more information about Riga’s team visit www.dinamoriga.eu. Upcoming fixtures at Arena Riga include: October Date Time 6 19:30 9 17:00 11 19:30 13 19:30 25 19:30 27 19:30 November 28 17:00 30 19:30

Game Dynamo Rīga v. Phoenix Coyotes (NHL) Dynamo Rīga v. Torpedo Nizhny Novgorod Dynamo Rīga v. Lokomotiv Yaroslavl Dynamo Rīga v. Atlant Moscow Oblast Dynamo Rīga v. Dynamo Moscow Dynamo Rīga v. Vityaz Chekhov Dynamo Rīga v. Sibir Novosibirsk Dynamo Rīga v. Amur Khabarovsk

Paintball Jugland Paintball Park Salaspils novads, tel. (+371)

27 82 10 00, www.jugland.lv. If you’re in the mood to vent some frustration, the Latvian Paintball Club has devised a way to inflict some pain on your friends. All you need to do is to reserve a time online, by phone or in person at their office on Valdemāra and take a trip out to the Jugland Paintball Park outside of Salaspils. Q Riga office: B-4, Valdemāra 40, tel. (+371) 67 29 14 00, www.paintball.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

Saunas Baltā pirts B-6, Tallinas 71, tel. (+371) 67 27 17 33,

www.baltapirts.lv. Opened in 1908, the White Sauna is owned and operated by an American-Latvian who happens to be a direct descendant of its founder. Both traditional Latvian and modern saunas are available as well as a swimming pool, baths, a cafe and English-speaking staff. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Cashier open until one hour before closing. Masonu pirts C-5, Čaka 71, tel. (+371) 67 31 48 26. Rented out to larger groups this place offers a variety of saunas, small pools, a hot tub and a small banquet hall for parties. Q Open 24hrs.

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Sports & Leisure Segway rental Super Segway H-2, Torņa 4 (Jēkaba Kazarmas II-C), tel. (+371) 27 87 64 71, www.segway.lv. Join the modern age and take a tour of the city not on foot or by bus, but on a segway. Sign up for an organised tour or rent a segway for 20Ls/hour. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. A RC

Shooting galleries Photo ID is required, so don’t forget to bring your passport. Regro S C-1, Daugavgrīvas 31, tel. (+371) 67 60 17 05, www.regros.lv. Shooting with real guns in an underground Soviet fallout shelter. Choose from a wide variety of pistols and even automatic weapons from old Lugers to Uzis. Remember you’re charged for ammunition so a few seconds with an AK-47 could cost you dearly. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Sundays by appointment only. Riga Out There Tel. (+371) 29 38 94 50/(+371) 67 48 24 43, www.out-there.eu. Don’t want to learn Russian just to fire a weapon? Not keen on communicating with Ivan when he’s got a Kalashnikov in his hands? The people at Riga Out There will organise a shooting session and do the talking for you. Q A

Skydiving Aerodium Sigulda, A2 Riga - Sigulda highway, tel. (+371) 28 38 44 00, www.aerodium.lv. If you’ve ever wanted to skydive, but decided that the risk was too great or the height too daunting, then the people at Aerodium have designed the perfect adrenalin ride for you. The only vertical wind tunnel in Eastern Europe is only a short ride from the Latvian capital just outside of Sigulda. Professional instructors will teach you all you need to know in only 20 minutes and then you’ll be ready to feel what it’s like to jump out of a plane but without the usual worry of a defective parachute and a life-ending bounce on the ground. A helmet, goggles, flight suit and other accessories are provided. Geronimo! Q Price: starting at 15Ls/2 minutes. You must book a flight time prior to your arrival.

Swimming pools Akvalande E-3, Mūkusalas 45/47, tel. (+371) 67 62

97 00, www.akvalande.lv. Three swimming pools including a 100m long circular pool, waterslides, a children’s pool as well as a bar. Adults 5Ls, children 2 - 3Ls. QOpen 10:00 - 21:30. A City Fitness D-2, Kuģu 24 (Radisson Daugava Hotel), tel. (+371) 67 06 11 24, www.cityfitness.lv. A 25m swimming pool, sauna and gym are all at your disposal just across the river. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A Ķīpsala Sports Centre C-2, Ķīpsalas 5, tel. (+371) 67 61 69 89, www.baseins.lv. Large swimming pool for 5.65 - 7.20Ls/90 minutes. QOpen 07:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Līvu akvaparks Lielupe (Jūrmala), Viestura 24, tel. (+371) 67 75 56 36, www.akvaparks.lv. Latvia’s largest indoor aqua park charges roughly 11Ls/adult for two hours of fun, but children under six can go for free. A wave pool, children’s pool and water slides are at your disposal as well as a poolside bar, saunas and hot tubs. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. TALDC

Olympic Sports Centre (Olimpiskais sporta centrs) A-4, Grostonas 6b, tel. (+371) 67 38 77 10, www. ocriga.lv. An Olympic-sized swimming pool is at your disposal every day.QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 22:00.

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Autumn is the perfect time for a little curling M.Zaprauskis

Tennis Enri Kalnciema 207, tel. (+371) 67 20 75 50, www.enri.

lv. Indoor and outdoor courts for 9 - 15Ls/hour. Take airport bus N°22 to the Rūdas stop. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Also at Stirnu 34a, tel. (+371) 67 80 22 08. A Zelta boulinga centrs E-2, Uzvaras bulv. 2/4, tel. (+371) 67 61 87 78, www.zelta.lv. One indoor court for 8 - 18Ls/hour depending on the time of day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. A

Yoga Daya Yoga C-5, Stabu 51/2, tel. (+371) 26 55 50 60,

www.joga.lv. This yoga studio offers something for everyone: yoga for beginners, for professionals, for pregnant women and for children, a wide variety of massage options, meditation classes and even Indian dance lessons. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Football in Riga Latvia’s greatest football achievement occurred in the 2004 European Championship in Portugal when the Latvian side had to settle for a 0-0 draw with Germany. Many spectators believe that Latvia should have been awarded a penalty kick after one of its forwards was imprisoned in a headlock and dragged to the ground by a German defender just shy of Deutschland’s goalmouth. Since then, major ‘victories’ haven’t been forthcoming, with perhaps the exception of local side FC Ventspils’ advancement to the group stage of the UEFA Europa League in 2009. In fact, Latvia’s moment of glory in Portugal was essentially repeated, by Latvian standards anyway, when Ventspils drew 1-1 with Hertha Berlin on the German side’s home pitch last season. More recently, Latvian striker Artjoms Rudņevs denied Juventus a win against the Polish club Lech in a Europa League match by scoring a hat-trick against the Italian football giant. Here in Riga you can watch a Euro 2012 qualifier as Latvia take on Georgia at the Skonto Stadium (B-4, Melngaiļa 1a, www.skontofc.lv) in October. Tickets can be bought at the stadium. In case you were wondering, Latvia lost to Croatia 3-0, but defeated Malta 2-0 in its previous qualifiers. Photo by Roberts Lismanis October Date Time Game 12 20:00 Latvia v. Georgia

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health & lifestyle Currency exchange

Mēness aptieka B-5, Brīvības 74, tel. (+371) 67 27

Most currency exchange booths (valūtas maiņa), with a few exceptions, offer decent rates, but many banks and exchanges charge a ridiculous fee for any notes that are torn, dirty or marked. Marika D/C-4, Brīvības 30, tel. (+371) 67 28 08 75. One of the few 24-hour currency exchange companies in Riga. Rates are slightly worse after midnight. Q Also on C-4, Dzirnavu 96, tel. (+371) 67 24 34 55. Open 24hrs. Tavex H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 22, tel. (+371) 67 20 55 33, www.tavex.lv. Located across the street from the Opera, it offers friendly staff and good rates. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A

Spas

Dentists Adenta A-4, Skanstes 13, tel. (+371) 67 33 93

00/(+371) 29 12 08 54, www.adenta.lv. Professional English-speaking staff. Also available at the weekend in emergencies. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Diplomatic Service Medical Centre C-4, Elizabetes 57, tel. (+371) 67 22 99 42, www.dsmc.lv. English-speaking dentists. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Elladent B-3, Vīlandes 18, tel. (+371) 67 33 30 04, www.elladent.lv. All kinds of dentistry including cosmetic dentistry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Sandent B-4, Hanzas 6, tel. (+371) 67 33 44 26, www. sandent.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Saturday and Sunday by appointment only. A

Home entertainment DVD Baltija C-5, Bruņinieku 45, tel. (+371) 67 31 60 96. English-speaking staff and a great selection of films. Become a member or leave a 10Ls deposit for each film. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00.

Massage Life Veda Institute of Authentic Ayurveda C-5,

Barona 56, tel. (+371) 67 29 89 51/(+371) 28 81 11 44, www.lifeveda.lv. The only authentic Ajurveda institute in the Baltic region offers traditional Indian massages and treatments performed by certified Ajurvedic doctors and therapists from India. Although these ancient holistic medicinal treatments command astronomical prices in Western Europe, the same procedures are available here for a fraction of the cost. It also provides its services at major hotels.

Medical ARS F-3, Skolas 5, tel. (+371) 67 20 10 07, www.ars-

med.lv. English-speaking doctors. Listed opening hours are for the trauma centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. For a 24-hour medical consultaion call its hotline at tel. (+371) 67 20 10 03. Diplomatic Service Medical Centre C-4, Elizabetes 57, tel. (+371) 67 22 99 42, www.dsmc.lv. Englishspeaking doctors and dentists. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Pharmacies Ģimenes aptieka B-6, Tallinas 57b, tel. (+371) 67 31 42 11, www.gimenesaptieka.lv. Q Open 24hrs. Also at Audēju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 67 01 80 59. Open 08:00 - 22:00; C-4, Brīvības 38, tel. (+371) 67 28 97 61. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A

Riga In Your Pocket

16 19, www.menessaptieka.lv. The one on Aspazijas is an American-style pharmacy where you can pick up over-thecounter medications from the shelves without consulting a pharmacist. Q Also at I-3, Aspazijas 20 (entrance from Audēju), tel. (+371) 67 22 38 26. Open 24hrs. A

ESPA Riga F-3, Baznīcas 4a (Radisson BLU Hotel Lat-

vija), tel. (+371) 67 71 52 22, www.espariga.com. ESPA Riga is the largest five-star spa in the Baltic and Scandinavian region with a futuristic interior and atmosphere that put one in mind of utopian societies found in science fiction films and novels. Hidden behind the beautiful facade of an historic art nouveau building, you’ll find six modern floors of swimming pools, saunas, treatment rooms, gyms and relaxation areas - all of which include cutting-edge design and technology. Luxurious changing facilities are also at your disposal as well as a café serving healthy dishes and a shop selling ESPA products. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30. AFKDC

Translations Roberts Līsmanis Tel. (+371) 29 50 61 92. Specialising in Latvian-English and legal translation. Highly recommended by local expats. Member of the New York State Bar Association.

Riga for kids Eating out Finding child-friendly restaurants and cafés in Riga can sometimes be a bit of a chore, but a few have realised that providing a play area for children can actually add to their bottom line. Vairāk Saules (C-4, Dzirnavu 60, tel. (+371) 67 28 28 78) offers a kids’ menu and all the legos a child could ever want and T.G.I.Friday’s (I-2, Kaļķu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 90 70) offers colouring books and a kids’ menu. Educational trips The Open-Air Ethnographic Museum (Brīvības gatve 440, tel. (+371) 67 99 45 15) is a great place for kids. Not only can children learn about Latvian customs and rural living, but they can also see people in period costume performing various tasks like shaping iron at the blacksmith’s. The Riga National Zoo (see What to see) is always a good option for kids and after a tour of the Sun Museum (I-2, Kungu 1, www. saulesmuzejs.lv) kids and parents can go down to the cellar workshop and paint plaster suns, which is included in the price of admission. Just for fun Līvu Akvaparks (Jūrmala, Lielupe, Viestura 24, www.akvaparks.lv) offers a wave pool, a children’s pool, six water slides and a tubing river guaranteed to keep the kids happy all day long. The giant Lido Recreation Centre (Krasta 76, www.lido.lv) also has plenty to offer including a huge skating rink and lots of children’s attractions. Finally, the Riga Circus (C-4, Merķeļa 4, www. cirks.lv) is the only permanent circus in the Baltics and it offers a show that includes clowns, jugglers, magicians, illusionists, acrobats and animal acts. See website for show times. For bowling, entertainment centres, swimming pools and other activities for the whole family see Sports & Leisure.

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officials Foreign representations For a complete list of foreign embassies and consulates in Riga including opening hours visit www.mfa.gov.lv/en/ministry/mission. Canada B-4, Baznīcas 20/22, tel. (+371) 67 81 39 45, [email protected], www.latvia.gc.ca. China (People’s Republic of) E-3, Ganību dambis 5, tel. (+371) 67 35 70 23, lv.chineseembassy.org/eng. Denmark H-1, Pils 11, tel. (+371) 67 22 62 10, www. ambriga.um.dk. Estonia C-4, Skolas 13, tel. (+371) 67 81 20 20, www. estemb.lv. Finland B-3, Kalpaka bulv. 1, tel. (+371) 67 07 88 00, www.finland.lv. Germany H-3, Raiņa bulv. 13, tel. (+371) 67 08 51 00, www.riga.diplo.de. Ireland B-3, Alberta 13, tel. (+371) 67 03 93 70, www. embassyofireland.lv. Japan F-3, Valdemāra 21, tel. (+371) 67 81 20 01, www. lv.emb-japan.go.jp. Lithuania B-3, Rūpniecības 24, tel. (+371) 67 32 15 19, lv.mfa.lt. Netherlands G-1, Torņa 4 - Ia, tel. (+371) 67 32 61 47, www.netherlandsembassy.lv. Norway H-2, Zirgu 14, tel. (+371) 67 81 41 00, www. norvegija.lv. Poland B-3, Mednieku 6b, tel. (+371) 67 03 15 00, www.ryga.polemb.net. Russia F-2, Antonijas 2, tel. (+371) 67 33 21 51, www. latvia.mid.ru. Sweden F-2, Pumpura 8, tel. (+371) 67 68 66 00, www. swedenabroad.com/riga. United Kingdom F-2, Alunāna 5, tel. (+371) 67 77 47 00, ukinlatvia.fco.gov.uk/en. United States of America G-2, Raiņa bulv. 7, tel. (+371) 67 03 62 00, riga.usembassy.gov.

Government & Municipality Citizenship & Migration Affairs Office (Pilsonības un migrācijas lietu pārvalde) Čiekurkalna 1. līnija 1,

k-3, tel. (+371) 67 21 96 64, www.pmlp.lv. Residency permits. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Government (Ministru Kabinets) G-3, Brīvības 36, tel. (+371) 67 08 28 00, www.mk.gov.lv. President (Valdis Zatlers) H-1, Pils laukums 3, tel. (+371) 67 09 21 06, www.president.lv. Riga City Council (Rīgas dome) I-2, Rātslaukums 1, tel.(+371) 67 02 61 01, www.rcc.lv. Saeima (Parliament) H-1, Jēkaba 11, tel. (+371) 67 08 73 21, www.saeima.lv.

Organisations & NGOs American Chamber of Commerce H-2, Torņa 4, 2A

- 301, tel. (+371) 67 21 22 04, www.amcham.lv. European Movement - Latvia B-3, Vīlandes 3-11, tel. (+371) 67 32 65 48, www.eiropaskustiba.lv. Goethe-Institut Riga H-1, Torņa 1 (entrance from Klostera), tel. (+371) 67 50 81 94, www.goethe.de/riga. Latvian Investment and Development Agency C-4, Pērses 2, tel. (+371) 67 03 94 99, www.liaa.gov.lv. Soros Foundation B-3, Alberta 13, tel. (+371) 67 03 92 41, www.sfl.lv. Swedish Chamber of Commerce B-3, Strēlnieku 4a, tel. (+371) 67 28 56 67, www.scc.lv. The Latvian Institute C-4, Elizabetes 57, tel. (+371) 67 50 36 63, www.li.lv.

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Dirty politics Local politicians have been gearing up for the October 2 parliamentary elections and by the time you read this Latvians will have cast their ballots. Not since the 1990s has an election caused such a stir and the next government could well determine the course of the country for many years to come. Reputed oligarchs who have been thieving for years are desperately trying to keep their seats at the table, while pro-Kremlin forces have promised to steer the nation in Moscow’s direction should they take power. At the time of writing the current government represented by Vienotība (Unity) was expected to gain slightly less seats in parliament than frontrunners SC. After the parties of the oligarchs nearly bankrupted the nation, Valdis Dombrovskis took the reigns of government as PM and made scores of unpopular, yet necessary decisions that his predecessors were too cowardly, clueless or corrupt to implement. Naturally, these same irresponsible politicians are now blaming the whole crisis on Mr. Dombrovskis. Although each party has its own agenda, many locals know the parties for the following things: Par labu Latviju (PLL) This coalition of parties largely responsible for Latvia’s financial woes united because they realised that their past performance precluded them from passing the 5% barrier needed to gain seats in parliament on their own. Its two leaders are reputed oligarchs who have been implicated in illegal activities. PCTVL Even the pro-Russian SC think these guys are extreme. They refuse to admit that Latvia was ever occupied by the Soviet Union and want to make Russian an official language. Saskaņas centrs (SC) This coalition of left-leaning, proRussian parties is expected to do well this year sparking terror in the hearts of most Latvians who fear a return to the ‘bad old days’ under the Kremlin’s wing. Although they claim to represent the interests of the poor, many of its top politicians are filthy rich. Vienotība This coalition of progressive parties led by Prime Minister Dombrovskis passed an austerity budget limiting public services and cutting costs wherever possible to comply with the IMF’s rigid loan requirements. Its most controversial figure, the eccentric finance minister Einars Repše, has mystified people both locally and abroad with his custom tailored, pin-striped leather suit which he wears nearly every day. He is not running for office and will leave politics after the election. VL!-TB/LNNK This right wing coalition might just squeak into parliament. They have a tendency to despise anything Russian and often back lost causes such as getting back Abrene, a small piece of land that was annexed by the Russian SSR during WWII. Zaļo un zemnieku savienība (ZZS) The so-called greens and farmers are anything but and they’re candidate for prime minister is a reputed oligarch awaiting trial for money laundering and bribery among other charges. The party’s last prime minister later resigned as parliament speaker in 2007 after he reported that his briefcase containing US$10,000 was stolen in the parliament building. Obviously people wanted to know why he was strolling around government’s holiest of holies with that much cash.

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walking tour

Old Riga walking tour One could easily stroll about Old Riga’s meandering streets Walk down Tirgoņu and proceed to Kaļķu. Make another and ancient alleyways for days, but for most travellers time right there and walk to I-2, the House of Blackheads, the is at a premium and a long journey is a luxury few can afnew town hall, I-1, the Latvian Riflemen Monument and I-2, ford. With this in mind, we’ve prepared a condensed walking the Occupation Museum of Latvia, which is a must see. tour which includes many of Old Riga’s best sights. Next walk down Grēcinieku in the opposite direction of the Begin at H-3, the Freedom Monument on River Daugava to I-2, the Mentzendorff the edge of Old Riga and the famous Laima House. After a short tour of the house Clock. Walk up to the top of G-2, Bastion continue down Grēcinieku and make a Hill for views and then walk across ZA Meileft on Skārņu. You can take a look at I-2, erovica (Basteja) until you reach H-2, the St. John’s Church on the right or walk to red brick Powder Tower and the Museum the entrance of St. Peter’s on the left and of War next door. take the lift up to the top of for excellent Next walk down Torņa. The Jacob’s Barviews. On Skārņu you’ll find dozens of racks on the right side of the street is souvenir vendors. home to many trendy shops and cafés Walk into I-2, John’s Courtyard (Jāņa sēta) and remnants of H-2, the Old City Walls are and emerge on Kalēju. Go left until you visible on the left side. Walk left through reach H-2, Livs’ Square (Līvu laukums) the H-2, Swedish Gate and immediately which is home to H-2, the Great and Small make a right on Trokšņu, one of Riga’s narrowest streets. Go left then straight Guildhalls, the Russian Drama Theatre between H-1, St. James Church and the (currently undergoing renovations) and Saeima (parliament). the Cat House. Make a left on Klostera to find H-1, the This concludes your walking tour. You MZ can relax at one of the many restaurants Three Brothers ahead. Take a peak inside Leaves on Trokšņu iela to see how medieval Europeans once lived. Go right on and bars here for a well-deserved Latvian brew or a hot Mazā Pils to Pils laukums where you’ll find H-1, Riga Castle drink. It’s also a good place to buy local souvenirs like which also houses the History Museum of Latvia. amber jewellery and paintings. If you’d like to see a video Next walk up Pils to Cathedral Square (Doma laukums). of this tour visit: www.inyourpocket.com/latvia/riga//feaTake a tour of H-1, Riga Cathedral and its hidden Romanture/71284-Old_Riga_walking_tour.html. esque cloister.

Riga In Your Pocket

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Riga City Tour

Index 1221 30 1739 33 4 Rooms 30 ABC 20 Agency Lilija Plus 23 Agency STES Latvia 23 Akhtamar 24 Albert Hotel 18 Alberts Pub 49 Alus Ordenis 36 Alus Sēta 36 Amber Night 45 Amelie 40 Amica Café 28 Apsara 40 Aragats 24 Arbat 38 Armenia 24 Art Café Sienna 24 Art Hotel Laine 20 B&B Krisjanis & Gertrude 22 B-Bārs 47 Babylon 45 Bergs Restaurant 28, 40 Bestsellers 30 Bites Blues Club 48 Bon Vivant 26, 48 Botanica Café 30 Boulangerie Bonjour 28, 29 Brown Sugar 28 C.U.T. 31 Cadets de Gascogne 26, 29 Café Balanss 27 Café Lehaim 34 Celsijs 42 Central Hostel 23 Četri Balti Krekli 48 Čili Pica 29, 38 City Hotel Bruņinieks 20 Club Essential 45 Coco Loco 45 Coffee Inn 27 Columbine 40 Coyote Fly 45

Cream Café 31, 47 Cuba Café 47 Cyprus Kebab House 35 dADa 26 Dagira 35 Depo 45 Dņipro 40 Dodo Hotel 22 Domino Pizza 29 Double Coffee 26 Dstyle 43 Dzirnavas 36 Esplanāde 31 Ezītis miglā 42 Fabrikas restorāns 40 Fazenda 31 Fazer Café & Restaurant 31 Flat 24 Food Box 35 Gallery Park Hotel 18 Gan Bei 26, 29 Garāža 42 Gastronome 38 Gauja 42 Golden 46 Grand Palace Hotel 18 Gutenbergs 32 Habibi 37 Hanza Hotel 18 Harry Morgan 28, 32 Hesburger 29 HHC 42 Homestay 22 Hotel Bergs 18 Hotel de Rome 18 Hotel Edvards 21 Hotel Gutenbergs 19 Hotel Irina 21 Hotel Jūrnieks 22 Hotel Multilux 22 Hotel Neiburgs 18 Hotel Rīga 19 Hotel Spāre 21 Indian Raja 30 Indian Tikka House 30

Islande Hotel 19 Istaba 24 Jakob Lenz 22 Jasa Cafe 27 Jockey Club 44 Just 32 Kabata 48 Kabuki 34 Kanēļa konditoreja 27 Kebabs Fix 35 Kiwi Bar 37, 48 Klondaika 40 Knaipe 30 Kolonna Hotel Brigita 21 Kolonna Hotel Riga 21 Kontakts 32 Konventa Sēta 19 Krievu Sēta 38 Krogs Aptieka 43 L.A. 46 La Belle Époque 43 Labi 44 La Boheme 41 La Dolce Vita 49 Lauvas Nams 37 Le Crabe 38 Le Paon Bleu 29 LIDO 29, 37 LIDO atpūtas centrs 36 Lidojošā Varde 32 LIDO Spice 36 Lielais Ķīnas Mūris 28 Liene 22 Livonija 23, 34 Līvu krodziņš 48 Lobby Bar 43 Mad House 47 Māja 26 Mārtiņa beķereja 26 McDonald's 29 Melnais Kaķis 37 Menora 34 Merlin 32 Meta-Kafe 26 Metropole 19

Mimino 39 Monika Centrum Hotel 20 Monterosso 33 Moon Safari 46 Mūķene 24 Murales 33 Nabaklab 46 Old City Boutique Hotel 20 Old Shanghai 28 Olive 32 Osīriss 26, 28 Otto Schwarz 41 Paddy Whelan's Irish Pub & Sports Bar 33, 49 Pastarellia 36 Pelmeņi XL 28 Pieci Vilki 43 Pie Kristapa Kunga 36 Piens 46 Piramīda 41 Pirosmani 30 Pizza Lulū 29, 37, 38 Planet Sushi 34 PUSH 46 Radisson BLU Daugava 20 Radisson BLU Elizabete Hotel 20 Radisson BLU Hotel Latvija 20 Radisson BLU Ridzene Hotel 18 Raibais Balodis 28, 32 Rāma 41 Restaurant Elements 28, 32 Restorācija 48 Reykjavik 33 Riga Black Magic 27 Riga Hostel 23 Riga House Hostel 23 Riga Out There 48 Riga Weekend 48 Rock 'n' Riga 43

Roks cepurē 44 Rozengrāls 36 Runcis 48 Salmu Sēta 36 Salt 'n' Pepper 33 Samurajs 34 Sapņi un kokteiļi 46 Šašliki Mangaļos 39 Šefpavārs Vilhelms 28 Shot Café 44 Skanste 23 Skyline Bar 48 Slāvu Restorāns 38 Smilšu pulkstenis 40 Sonali Pub 37 Soraksans 35 Spot 27 Star Lounge 48 Steak House Dome 39 Sushi Point 29 Svada 41 Sveiks, Šveik! 28 T.G.I.Friday's 24 Taka 44 Tallink Hotel Riga 20 Tequila Boom 40 The Club 46 The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers 23 TIA 22 Tikai karotes 39 Tinto 28, 49 Tokyo City 34 Traktieris 38 Trattoria del Popolo 34 TurKebab 35 Un Momento 34 Uzbekistāna 28 Vairāk Saules 29, 38 Varzob 28 Vērmanītis 36 Vincents 41 Wok Café 26 Ze Donats 29 Zen 40 Zilā govs 39

Ķēniņu Klostera Konventa Sēta Krāmu Kronvalda bv. Kungu Laima clock Laipu Līvu laukums Mārstaļu Mazā Miesnieku Mazā Monētu Mazā Muzeja Mazā Pils Mazā Smilšu Mazā Trokšņu Meistaru Merķeļa Miesnieku

Minsterejas J-2 Mucenieku H-2 Muitas G-1 Mūku H-1 Palasta I-1 Pasta J-2 Peitavas I-2 Peldu I-2 Pēterbaznīcas I-2 Pils H-1 Pils laukums H-1 Prāgas J-3 Pumpura F-2 Radio I-3 Raiņa bulv. G-2/H-3 Rātslaukums I-1/2 Reimersa G-2 Rīdzenes I-3 Rozena H-1

Skārņu I-2 Šķūņu H-2 Smilšu H-1/2 Strēlnieku laukums I-1 Teātra I-2/3 Tirgoņu H/I-2 Torņa G-1/H-2 Trokšņu H-2 Ūdensvada I-2 Vāgnera H/I-2 Valdemāra G-1/F-2/3 Vaļņu H-2/I-3 Vecpilsētas I-3 Vingrotāju F-2 Z.A. Meierovica (Basteja bulvāris) G/H-2 Zirgu H-2 Riga Info Centre I-2 Bus Station J-3

Old Riga street register 11. novembra krastmala I-1/J-2 13. janvāra I/J-3 Aklā H-1 Akmens tilts J-1 Alberta laukums I-3 Aldaru H-2 Alksnāja I-2 Alunāna F-2 Amatu H-2 Anglikāņu H-1 Arsenāla H-1 Aspazijas bulv. H/I-3 Atgriežu H-1 Audēju I-2/3 Barona H-3 Basteja bv. (Z.A. Meierovica) G/H-2 Bīskapa gāte I-1

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Brīvības G/H-3 Citadeles F/G-1 Doma laukums H-1 Elizabetes F-3 Freedom Mon. H-3 Gleznotāju H/I-2 Grēcinieku 1/2 Herdera lauk. H-1 Inženieru H-3 Jāņa I-2 Jāņa sēta I-2 Jaunavu H/I-2 Jauniela H/I-1 Jēkaba G/H-1 Jēkaba lauk. G-1 Jeruzalemes F-3 Kalēju I-2/3 Kaļķu H/I-2 Kalpaka bv. G-2/3

H-2 H-1 I-2 I-1/2 F/G-1 I-2 H-2 H-2 H-2 I/J-2 H-1 H/I-2 H-1 H-1 H-2 H-1 H-2 G/H-3 H-1

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