Rick McKinney 1 P

~

~~ t

~

-4

~

"'\ .{

--. ~

--

~

'\

~~~

]2 RICK'S SHOOTING FORM

~

It's funny to think tl1at I am finally finished with something that I have wanted to do for such a long time. In the mid 1960's it was extremely difficult to find help in shooting. One of the promises I made to myself is to offer help at any time I could so other people wou1d not feel the frustration I felt when looking for knowledge. Today, you will see a lot of help available and sometimes it may be too much. Archery is a sport that creates individuality. It is a form of expression that not many people in the world can truly enjoy unless they get a chance to experience the true essence of releasing the bow string. The feeling of a well executed shot and watching the arrow hit it's mark is a wonder of joy. I have been truly blessed to be so competitive for over 30 years. I have often wondered, "why me?".

-

.

I I I

II

I I I f

..

II

I I .1 I I II

..118111

. I 11

!

. I 11 =-111 -

I ~

Ci C ~CC

C

I

.

I

I

~ !I:;

~ JQ;

,jC

INTRoDtfcrjbN

C

.

c

"

U¡ Cc

'

c,

¡

I spent many years studying the sport of archery. Most of my focus at the University was on the biomechanics, the physical, and the mental aspects of the human being. I tried to apply all of what I learned towards archery .The thousands of competitions have been an education of learning how best to deal with the pressures of winning and losing. However, I find like most others, that the more I learn the more I realize I know very little. I have tried to put what little knowledge I know to paper. I hope that it is of use to you and hope you understand that not everything I say will be applicable to you. Some of it will be confusing. Some will be agreeable and some will be argumentative. If it provokes thought, then I feel I have accomplished my goal. One of the greatest coaches I have ever known was a man who always made you think about it. He always asked you a question and you had to figure out what he was trying to say. Alfred K. Henderson had a very profound impact on my philosophy of archery and I considered him the finest example of what a coach should be. There are a lot of people I would like to thank who have helped me understand this sport of archery. Please know one thing. I do not have any brilliant ideas. It is other peoples ideas and hopefully I have been able to communicate these ideas to you. This book is a collection of all great minds who have made archery a life hobby. The first person I would like to thank is my father. He taught me to keep to the simple path in archery. Simple equipment, simple basic form and simple thought process keep the archer on the straight and narrow path to victory. My mother gave me the support, courage and belief in myself. Her philosophy of I'always give it your best and believe in yourself" was very critical to my success. Sheri Rhodes gave me the strength and the final piece to the puzzle of how to win. She is the closest person to achieve the coaching philosophy of Alfred K. Henderson. Her calmness during critical periods gave me the understanding and formula to win two world titles back to back. Don Rabska is without a doubt one of my dearest friends who has so much knowledge that it just never ceasesto amaze me. How he can even shoot is incredible with all of that knowledge interfering! I know of no one who understands the complete breakdown of the archery equipment we need to use as he does. He not only knows it, he can communicate it to many different levels of the sport. There are many others that I would like to thank, but are too numerous and if I started I would miss someone. They could be technicians, coaches sport scientists, psychologists, peers, etc. The information in this book can be considered an accumulation of bits and pieces of their mind. I thank them all for giving the knowledge so it can be passed on. There is one more person I would like to thank , Yoshimori Komatsu. He has been a very loyal and faithful friend ever since I met him. He truly is dedicated to the growth of the sport of archery. Thank you, Yoshi for all of your help and

I J r

INTRODUCTION

17

Contents Introduction Fundamental

Nine

16

Shooting Form

12

1.

21

THE BASICS -Form A. Stance B. Bow hand C. Bow arm D. Bow shoulder E. Back musc1es F. String fingers G. The draw H. Anchor I. String alignment J. Aiming 1. One eye or two K. Proper draw length L. The c1icker 1. Push-pull 2. Start-stop vs continuous M. Release & Follow through

THE SECRET OF ACCURATE SHOOTING A. Finger positioning B. Back tension C. Clicker D. Line E. Concentration F. Breathing G. Relaxation H. Comfort Zone 1. Confidence 2. Learn from losing 3. Feel

53

3

GOAL SETTING A. Goal B. Slump C. Physcial conditioning 1. Weight training 2. Leg strength 3. Cardio a. Jogging b. bicycle

81

~

c. d.

D. E. F.

CONTENTS

motion

2.

I

18

3

Steps

power stepper swimming

e. power walking f. trampoline Mental approach Mental control Warming up

4,

THE

5

TO M Y DEAR RNALS

6.

THE MENTAL GAME A. Emotions E. Motivation C. Goal setting

7.

MENTALL SKILLS A. Self-talk E. Concentration/focus C. Relaxation D. Imagery E. Others 1. Reaffirmation 2. Subliminal techniques 3. Eiofeedback

8.

EQUIPMENT A. Bow & components 1. Risers 2. Limbs 3. Grip 4. Stabilization 5. Compensators 6. Sights a. Sightpins 7. Bow strings 8. Arrow rests 9. Plungers B. Tuning 1. Preliminary Equipment Setup a. Arrow Centering b. Horizontal Plunger Alignment c. Arrow Rest Positioning d. Arrow Rest Clearance c. Nock Alignment to Fletching e. Clearance f. Nocking Point/String Tension g. Clicker Angle & Tension h. Static Tiller Adjustment i. Brace Height 2. Bare Shaft Tuning a. Determining Spine b. Nocking Point Adjustment

NEW

OLYMPIC

3.

C.

105

ROUND

c. Plunger Paper Tuning

111

Spring

Tension

Adjustment

4. Short Distance Fine Tuning 5. Micro Tuning All about Rick McKinney

Accomplishments

CONTENTS

]9

STANCE Sguare

or oQen? There are two major type ot stances used today. The first, which is most commonly used, is called the square (Classic) stance. This is where the archer will stand with their feet shoulder width apart and be perpendicular to the target. Normally, if one were to draw a line from the target to the archer, the toes would be parallel to this line. The second major stance is called an open stance. This stance has gained in popularity more with the men than women. If one were to say that the square stance is 90 degrees of the target, then the open stance is 45 degrees. What is the difference and why? First of all, I recommend that a person should always learn.the square stance in the beginning. This is because it has a lot more strengths than weaknesses. When a person stands square to the target, their body is lined up properly and they get full use of the shoulders in positioning. The alignment is more correct when using this stance. This makes the shot easier to control and to get through the c1icker. It also is easier to get ready to shoot. One can tell fairly well when they are square to the target in comparison to the open stance. This stance can vary somewhat with the open style without knowing it, unless foot markers are used. Being off a little bit on the stance will cause the archer to line up on the target improperly and waste valuable time in shooting the shot. Also, they could cause unnecessary torque while shooting because they have to twist the upper body to get in line with the target. The open stance takes a little time to adjust to compared to the square stance, but most archers seem to be able to use their back easier with it. This is probably due to twisting just below the chest. The feel of using back tension is more pronounced and executing the shot seemsto be stronger when using this stance. There is a tendency to get more high and low shots with the open stance than with the square stance. This is due to swaying a little while at full draw. The archer will sway forward and backward of the target. The square stance will give the archer more right and left shots due to the swaying back and forth of the shooting line. In windy conditions the open stance tends to be stronger due to the torque that is created making it more difficult for the archer to sway in the wind. Knees in a relaxed state Remember that both of these stances are very successful and I can only give pros and cons of each. Which is better, having the weight at the front of the toes of the feet or at the heels? I recommend trying to get a good balance and do not use too much of either. If the archer uses more of one or the other they will cause undue stress and strain on their stance causing them to spend more time trying to keep their aim on target than concentrating on executing a good shot. One thing that must be realized is how important the stance is. It is the foundation of the shot. If

22

THE BASICS -FORM

Square Stance Stand shoulder width apart, and perpendicular Shoulder

to the target.

alignment

is easier to

acquire when using this stance.

Open Stance Twist just below the chest. You may be able to use your back easier.

McKinney's I use this stance

Open Stance when

I want

to

use m y back more or when there is a strong

wind.

THEBASICS-FORM 23

~

an archer sways just a little bit, this will cause their aim to move off of the center of the target. Once they move off of the target, subconsciously they will stop their push-pull action. Concentration is distracted, thus making it very difficult to execute a good shot. If the aim is right on, the archer will stay relaxed, they will continue their motion, while coming through the clicker with ease and they will have confidence in executing the shot properly, giving them good odds on a good score.

The United States Archery Team had a lot of Force Platform tests performed on the top archers and the conc1usions were insignificant on the best stance to obtain. The difference between a top archer and an average archer was the consistency of that stance and less sway. The final statement made by the scientists was that being in good physica1 condition will give you the best and most consistent Q stance. And consistency is more impor: .. I tant than anything else. THEREWAS NO II. :\ STANCE BETTERTHAN ANOTHER! ! : '\ I. Knees shou1dbe relaxed, not locked. I: \, Locking the knees causes strain and fa: : \ tigue. I usually rock my legs back and II' : , .., forth when I am trying to relax on the ,..-.\ shooting line (but not at full draw!). This ~ , , ...,; helps me keep my knees in a relaxed state. -..;,: I

y

The Korean archery team has discovered that if they train the quadriceps and hamstrings evenly they get better results in stability. It is very important that both legs have equal strength. The balance of left and right legs and front and rear musc1es are critical in high performance. They do a lot of weight training (leg curls and extensions and squats) for this consistency as well as jogging. The jogging consists of about 3-4 km per day for four days. Then cross country for 30-60 minutes 3-5 km inc1uding uphill and downhill in rough terrain once per week.

t: '!.? !!I ~(~:" ."- / '. ,;--.: .. I:~

~

//

/

y ~ When at full draw and aiming at a target. close your eyes and swing your body right and left at the waist. With eyes still closed. come to a stop in a cornfortable position. Then open your eyes and see where the sight pin is. If it is to the right. open the stance more (for right handed archers). Ifthe pin is to the left. close the stance some.

24

THE BASI

FORM

g~

~

How to find out the groger stance So, what is the best stance for you? I recommend you start with the square stance and then experiment to see which variations are more comfortable and consistent. Try each different position for some time before changing to something else. Once good basic skills are established, then experiment on which stance will be more beneficia1. One way to try to find out the proper stance is when at full draw and aiming at a target, close your eyes and swing your body right and left at the waist. With eyes still closed, come to a stop in a comfortable position. Then open your eyes and see where the sight pin is. If it is to the right, open the stance more (for right handed archers). If the pin is to the left, close the stance some. Do this a couple of times and you will see how much easier it is to set up the shot and aim when you have the right stance. You will get better results with the stance that fits you. You should not think that if it is good for one archer it will be good for you. Just find one that keeps feeling consistent and work on that consistency with leg strengthening programs.

Kiffi Jung-Rae

Vic Wunderle

Han Seung-Hun

26 THEBASICS-FORM

,

Jay Barrs

BOW

HAND

PLACEMENT

Low, medium

or high? The bow hand is a crucial part of shooting. It is the last place the arrow has to clear before it is safe from human mistakes. The archer can shoot with a high wrist or low wrist and do either quite successfully. I find that the relaxed low wrist is becoming the trend for the champion archers. Now when I say low wrist, it does not mean that the archer must use a low grip. A medium grip can be used as well. The wrist must be very relaxed though. When using the high wrist there is less surface area on the grip and therefore less chance of torquing the bow. Also, it is a more natural way of shooting. It takes a lot more strength in order to shoot this style consistently. Under pressure an archer tends to want to tighten their wrist causing high and low arrows. Also, when they tighten the wrist the hand tightens as well. This may cause the archer to torque the bow sideways resulting in more complications. The low wrist, with a low or medium grip, has been used by most current champions, male and female. One of the reasons for this is because once they learn to relax the wrist they are able to keep their whole hand relaxed during the shot. This gives them an edge when under pressure. One of the best methods to learn how to keep the bow hand relaxed was presented by Mr. Park, Kyung-Rae, considered to be one of the best Korean coaches. He would get in front of the archer (below the level of the arrow) and have the archer shoot an arrow without a sling (wrist, bow or finger). Mr. Park would catch the bow when the archer shot the arrow. The archer and coach performs this function over several shots. Once the archer becomes comfortable with the "relaxed " bow hand, Mr. Park would put the sling on the archer. Mr. Park would still stay in the same position as if catching the bow so the archer would keep the confidence developed during the previous shots. The archer shoots a few more arrows and realizes that the bow is safe from falling. The archer has learned how to keep the bow hand relaxed during the shot.

Low grip of Rick McKinney

High grip ofNatalia Vale eva

THEBASICS-FORM

27

Pressure

Point

of

ToQ

Archers

Ed Eliason n,,", ~

The 45° angled

grig

Keeping the grip consistent is important as well. How do you get into the grip consistently? One way is to mark the bow hand with an ink pen or something similar. Then watch where the hand goes each time and mark the bow in the right location and then see if the grip is consistent. lt is really important for the archer to get a good deep grip. This means high up into the throat. This way when it is raining or the palms are sweaty, the grip placement will stay the same as if the hands are cold or clammy. The right and left placement is just as critical. The easiest way is to angle the bow fingers or knuckles at about 45 degrees from the bow (the Koreans advocate the 45° angle). The small finger will be the farthest from the bow. If the fingers or knuckles are higher than 45 degrees, then you may be getting the grip out too far to be consistent and you may not be getting in line with the bow and the drawing elbow. If the grip is too far out, the pressure on the wrist will be too great to be consistent. You need to keep thinking of the bone structure as being very important in shooting. If you are in the proper line the shot will be executed so much better. If you are out of line staying consistent will be very hard and it takes a lot more energy to execute the shot. Biomechanically, the shoulder rotates with the bow hand. When the hand is 45° the shoulder sets properly in order to stay stable. When the bow hand is less than 45° the shoulder is out of place and causes the archer to need more musculature effort. This makes it extremely hard to keep consistent. An archer will come through the clicker too soon at times, but most of the time they will have a difficult time getti1)g through the clicker . One of the biggest challenges an archer faces is trying to keep simple techniques just that; simple. The bow hand affects the bow arm which affects the bow shoulder, which affects the draw, which affects the c1icker, which affects the shot, which affects the confidence level, which affects the score. Keeping this in mind, the archer needs to learn to focus on the simple things in order to get the form working properly. Another way to get the grip in the right position is to make a 'Y' with the thumb and forefinger. Try sliding the bow hand into the grip with the 'Y' in the center of the grip. This should be fairly correct. Then the rest will be up to you. The 45° Angled Grip

THEBASICS-FORM 29

BOW

ARM

Think of relaxing

the forearms

The bow arm should be very relaxed with the thought of reaching into the target during the shot. The main reason for this is because many times the archer will anticipate the shot and try to force the relaxation. That is not what needs to be done. The shot should be effortless, not forced. Reaching to the target with the bow shoulder should always get the arm and hand to reach as well, thus giving the arrow the chance to clear the bow before the bow arm drops or the bow is torqued. My father always reinforced my training on the bow arm. If the arm doesn't move during the shot, the arrow is given more of an opportunity to hit gold than anything else. Most people believe that the release is the most critica1, but with the recurve bow the bow arm is. You have probably seen many different releases by the same archer yet still they shot well. The bow arm was as solid as a rock before, during and after the shot. All champions have had a tremendous bow arm. It is wise to perfect the bow arm. An easy way to keep it relaxed before, during and after the shot is to think of relaxing the forearms. This has been very successful with many different archers. When the forearms are relaxed the most critical part of the arms are out of the way and back muscles will be used more.

30 THEBASICS-FORM

BOW

SHOULDER Not too low or not too high! The bow shoulder needs to be positioned in such a way that it is not too low or too high. Most archers tend to use more muscle than bone structure for setting the bow shoulder. Unfortunately, most of these archers will have the tendency to let the bow shoulder slowly rise as they are trying to get through the clicker. As the shoulder rises, the archer must pull more to get the clicker to go off. This obviously makes it very difficult to stay consistent and thus making the score rather inconsistent as well. Most of the time, if the score is consistent, it is consistently low. If the archer sets their grip properly (45°) and reaches toward the target with the hand and arm, the shoulder will set properly (if the clicker is set right!). Most archers have the tendency to set their clicker too short. This allows the archer to have a moveable bow shou1der. The archer can do lots of neat little tricks with the shoulder to make it look like they are extended at full draw. But the biggest givea-way is the rise of the shoulder . In many top archers you can see a little dip on top of the bow shoulder while they are at full draw. This shows the full extension of the shoulder and the right positioning of it as well.

The bow shoulder is too low(L) and too high(R), and proper(A).

THEBASICS-FORM

31

HA CK MUSCLES Use the ForMaster The back muscles are probably the most important part of the archers form, but the least understood. Most archers use the arm and shoulder muscles. The main reason is because they are much easier to use and it feels more comfortable using them. Very seldom does a person use back muscles in everyday life, but the arms and shoulders are always used. In order to use back muscles one must learn to relax the forearms. This relaxes the hands as well. There will be some tension in the forearms because if they are relaxed completely one would not be able to hold the string. One of the easiest methods I have ever experienced in learning and teaching back muscle usage is with the ForMaster developed by Richard Carella of Range-OMatic. This device has revolutionized early education of proper back tension. Most archers learn back tension by trial and error or they used a mechanical release to feel how the back is being used. This is all right, but it does take time and it is not a sure method of getting to the goal of using the back properly. When using the back, the arms are relaxed as much as possible. The biggest area of difficulty is once the clicker clicks the archer will tend to relax everything. This results in a mild collapse of the shot. The bow arm will go to the right (for right handed archers) and the draw hand will go forward. Neither of these reactions are desired in a shot. When using the ForMaster the archer will realize what is happening after the first shot with it. The way it is designed it will keep tension in the arms, shoulders and back or make one recognize that they must keep tension in the back after the clicker clicks. Most archers finish their shot after the clicker clicks. This is the most critical moment of the shot and most stop just short of completing it. With the ForMaster one will recognize this problem and make efforts to correct it while using the device. They will probably learn to use the ForMaster within a few shots, but the retention span will be very short. This is common since their shooting style has already been developed and it takes time to develop a new one, especially since a concentrated effort has not been on this particular area. Most archers will be concentrating on the target and not on themselves. Once the clicker goes off they tend to leave the shooting line immediately and try to beat the arrow to the target, forgetting all about form and execution.

without

32 THEBASICS-FORM

an arrow.

Learn

back

muscle usage It takes time to learn to use the back properly. If the archer takes the time, they willlearn to execute a shot better than ever before. Start by using the ForMaster without an arrow. This will give the archer an idea of what is happening and the focus will be on the inner self or how it feels. Shoot several times without an arrow then shoot an arrow without the ForMaster. Notice that the first arrow will feel so quick and smooth that it will be as though the shooting of an arrow has been redefined! C1ose,but not just yet. After a few shots with an arrow the archer will notice that they have gone back to their old form. This is normal and why it is so important to train with the training device more than once. When the archer has trained with this device for a few weeks they will notice that things may not be so perfect. That is because they are in a stage of de-learning what has been learned before the back was discovered. Learning the new part of the back will surprise most archers who thought that back tension only existed in other rare species of archers that call themselves champions! Once the archer has come to this point I recommend they get c1ose to the target (about 5 to 10 meters) and shoot an arrow with the ForMaster (aiming at a target). This will get them to realize just how terrible the ego is. We want to see where that arrow hits before we even let go. They will feellike they are using the ForMaster for the first time. Most people will collapse during the shot because they are focusing on the target. Shooting with an arrow and the ForMaster will get them to learn how to focus on the back while aiming and executing the shot. Another method of learning to use back tension is by using a mechanical release. This helps the archer to learn to keep finger pressure constant while shooting. We will discuss this in more detaillater on. The simplest method of learning back tension is to learn by relaxing the forearms, the biceps and triceps. The more relaxed these musc1es are, the more the archer learns to use the back musc1es. It is more like "if one musc1eis not used(arm musc1e), then another wlll take it's place (back musc1e)". When all antagonistic musc1es are relaxed, the back musc1eswill take over. Once an archer learns back tension, they will have to strive to continue to keep it. It is probably the most elusive part of archery that I can think of when you talk about form.

Back muscle movement of Don Rabska

THE BASICS

-FORM

33

STRING Deeg

Deep hook

Tip

FINGER hook

and tig hook How should you place the fingers on the string? Again there are two philosophies out there and both have proven that they are successful. The first is one I prefer and feel that most archers would rather use. This is getting a deep grip on the string, usually past the first joint of each of the three drawing fingers. Some archers even go back to the second joint in the fingers. The most important part is to be able to get a good grip on the string and then relax the fingers during the pre-draw. The archer should be able to relax the fingers enough to feel that they hook on the string. In the beginning, this method will feel rather inconsistent. However, like anything else, in time the archer will get very consistent with this action. The Korean method is similar. They say do not let the fingers move. I am saying the same thing AFTER predraw. Once the archer is at full draw it is bad to have the fingers moving. This creates a lot of inconsistency, not only with finger tension and position, but with ~~ getting through the c1icker as well. There is a small amount of tension when doing this, but it is far less than shooting on the finger tips, which is the other ~ method. Some archers feel as though shooting on the tips of the fingers helps them get off the string better. I cannot say that it does or does not, but I can say I believe that a deeper grip on the string will help the archer relax the fingers better causing them to relax the arms thus helping them get into the back better . While using the tips of the fingers, the archer will notice more stress in the forearms. This will cause more usage of the arms than of the back. Also, the string will have to go around the fingers more when shooting on the tips of the fingers because of the tension

hook

Set the string past the first joint of each of the three drawing fingers.

34 THEBASICS-FORM

As I draw, the hook goes to the proper position because of the poundage of the bow.

created. It is difficult to relax them at the proper moment. When using the deep grip the archer starts out relaxed through out the upper body and they should be able to stay relaxed during the shot. If the fingers are relaxed the string will push the fingers out of the way and there will be less horizonta1 string movement. " --,,1

The string will push the finger out of the way if the fingers are relaxed.

,1' ,/ ~/

\ I~

>-

~ ;;--/' II II

"

The string will have to go around the finger with the tip hook because of the tension created.

Finger

...J--

1"

~:;y

Qrotection Finger protection is very important. If the fingers start to blister or calluses start to crack, pain will be experienced that could cause the archer to f1inch during the shot or quit shooting. Let's discuss these two problems. First of all some people do not get calluses. Many will, but there are those who shoot thousands of arrows and still do not get calluses. Most of us are not blessed with this. Calluses are just a thickening of the skin. It could be considered dead skin because there is no feeling in this area. Now if the archer keeps shooting while the callus builds up larger and larger they could develop blisters under the callus. This makes it very painful to shoot. Cracks can develop in the callus as well, causing it to split open and create pain. I have found that once I get a split or a crack in a callus I have to sand the crack or split out of it completely or it will keep coming back. What do I mean about sanding it down? Take a pumice stone or an emery board or simple sand paper and rub the callus. Get the callus down to a reasonable manner. Do not take all of it off if you can help it. The callus serves an important p~rt of shooting. The new skin just under the callus is very sensitive and can cause pain and even blistering if too much is taken off. So just take the callus down to a smooth level. It is better if water is used while sanding. This keeps from scratching the skin too much. It keeps the callus very smooth. If you have not attempted this before, give it a try. I think you will find that it does wonders for your shooting. Blistering under the callus is common when it gets too big. I can only compare it to having a small rock or pebble in your shoe. The more you walk on it the bigger the blister. The callus is the rock or pebble and the blister is the soft sensitive skin just under the rock or pebble. If the callus is kept sanded down, the problem will be eliminated. Getting blisters early in shooting is because calluses or toughness has not been built up enough for protection. When an archer has taken time off from shooting they will lose the calluses. Generally, this happens when they are ready

THEBASICS-FORM 35

to get back in training and they go after it with a flourish. After SOor 100 arrows the fingers get really sore. In a couple of days they may get a blister. Most will anyway! I recommend that a person start back slowly. Shoot just a few arrows at first (especially the first week) and then increase the amount of shots gradually. In about two weeks they should be able to shoot a large number of arrows. Another way to cut the time it takes to build up calluses is to use special finger tape. There are all types out there now that sticks only to the tape itself. One is called Elastoplast and another is Medi-rip. Medi-rip is thicker, but lasts a lot longer and protects the finger better . Another thing to be careful about is a nerve that is in the middle finger. This nerve runs along the bottom part of the finger and if it is put continuously on the string, the nerve could get five times as large as normal. This will become very sensitive and will either cause a person to quit shooting a1l together or need to get an operation. The operation is needed to scrape the nerve down to a reasonable size. Basically, the nerve keeps rolling over the string as the string is drawn back and this causes it to enlarge over a period of time. Usually it takes years to develop, but if the archer starts to grip the string correctly in the beginning, they may not run into this problem. All that is needed is to start with the finger pressure above the center of the fingers and let the string roll down into place. Most people start the opposite way. This creates continuous stress on the nerve and it will grow because of it. When it becomes larger and larger the nerve also becomes more sensitive causing it to be painful when shooting. Prevention is the best cure.

DRAWJNG Focus on the bow

hand

and the release

finger

When an archer starts to draw the bow back the focus should be on two items; concentrating on the bow hand and the release fingers. If both are relaxed the archer will be able to commit to the shot without hesitation and end up with lots of gold. 1 start the draw by getting into my grip and grabbing the string. The bow is about 450 between the ground and the target. 1 feel the grip first to make sure it feels right. Then as I am raising my bow I am feeling my fingers on the string, trying to maintain a relaxed feeling. I raise the bow above the target. Not a lot, just enough so that when I have completed my draw, my sight pin is very c1oseto the gold. This makes it very easy to get on target to aim quickly and continue my motion.

36 THEBASICS-FORM

I try using gravity to help me while I am getting set up. If I am just above the target and keep relaxing with my continuous motion, the sight pin will gradually drop down to the center of the gold. If I start at the center and draw my bow back I usually end up below what I want to hit, so now I have to raise my bow while I am at full draw. This is fighting against gravity. I consider it a waste of energy and it sometimes can cause the front bow shoulder to rise which will get me out of line and cause inconsistency. I do not try to have the bow up too high either. If it is very high I will have to get it down as quickly as possible and this may cause me to move the sight too much and end up below the gold and then I wi1l still have to raise my arm again. It is best to stay as close to the center as you can. KyudoArcheryof Japan(The late Mr. While drawing the string back it is better to have the Hideharu Onuma) drawing elbow to be rather high. This is very similar to Zen or Kyudo archery of Japan. This helps the archer get their shoulder joint out of socket to begin with. When an archer begins with a low drawing elbow the shoulder joint is still close to the shoulder socket. This could cause some pain latter on in an archery career. Each time the archer draws the bow back the joint wants to get out of the socket near full draw. With the stress of the bow poundage, this could be causing injury to the shoulder. If the archer starts with the joint out of the socket, they have the advantage to shoot for a very long time with a lesser chance of injury to the shoulder .

-.

Raise the bow just above the target. And, the sight pin will gradually drop down to the center of the gold as you draw.

-+

If you start to draw the bow at the center of the gold, the sight pin will drop down below the center.

THEBASICS-FORM

37

Direct

line to draw Drawing should be very constant and smooth. Go from point A (beginning of the draw) to point B (the anchor) in as a direct line as possible. Many people think of their drawing elbow as they draw. This helps with consistency. Mr. Park says to draw and feel the scapula's movement during this effort. The scapula should be moving towards the spine. This is an excellent suggestion. Thus, while the archer is drawing with a consistent and smooth draw focusing on the scapula, a good uniform motion occurs creating good back tension at the same time. Some people believe they can start with too high of an elbow. Remember the very important rule and that is we are all individuals. Experiment in various areas and try to find one that does not hurt and feels very comfortable. Once you have developed a nice smooth and fluid draw with the string fingers and bow hand relaxed and in the correct position a solid anchor must be used.

I: II

It

;1

38 THEBASICS-FORM ii

ANCHOR Let the head

float The anchor is a difficult thing to find when using the head as the stable point of the draw. I believe that the anchor has very little to do with the head, but more with the draw and holding position that makes the archer feel comfortable and consistent. Yes, the head is needed to hit the anchor the same, but an archer should learn to keep the head relaxed and let it float ever so lightly so they can get through the clicker. I know this is rather controversial, but I feel too many people are trying to keep their head still and then they have a difficult time to get through the clicker because they cannot draw any farther back because their head is in the

way. Let's break it down and try to figure out what is happening. As an archer starts the draw they extend the bow arm and bring the string back to the chin. Some of us reach for the string with our head and others set the head in place and do not move it. They have a solid anchor and now they are ready to pull through the clicker. But, it takes forever. One of the reasons is that once they set the head and come to the anchor the head is not going to move very easily. It is extremely strong andwill not move unless the neck muscles are relaxed. This makes it very difficult to get through the clicker because the archer only has just a little bit of skin between the string and the bone of the jaw. The archer has maybe 1/8th of an inch and yet they cannot get through the clicker, so what do they do? They start to tighten those neck muscles! That makes sure the head does not move at all! The front shoulder starts to rise because they are getting more and more tired and now they have even more arrow to get through the clicker. That is why it is very important to stay relaxed, especially in the neck. Try something a little different. Move the head back and away from your normal alignment. Now draw the bow back and extend the bow arm naturally, while getting a good solid feel while at full draw. You shou1d feel your back locked in (the scapula). Also, the drawing elbow is in the proper place in line with the arrow or dose to it. You are locked into place. Now, move the chin over and locate a anchor base. Once a good anchor has been established it will not be necessary to do this, but it is good in the beginning to keep the head out of the way so that you

Compare the head positions;at the anchor(L) and just before the release(R).

THEBASICS-FORM 39

~an feel the proper alignment with the shoulders and back. Eventually you will be able to set the head in the proper place and draw to the chin without moving the head. Now, when I say move the head slightly while coming through the clicker, I do not mean for it to go right and left causing the string alignment to change. I mean for it to move back, in line with the arrow. This will help tremendously while coming through the c1icker. It will be surprising the first time you do it, because you will finally be working with the c1icker and not against it. Those neck musc1es will not be so sore after a day of shooting either. Also remember that the arrow is only moving less than 1/8th of an inch while coming through the c1icker (meaning the head is not moving much anyway). Center

or side? Should you anchor to the side of your face or down the center of it? I have seen both usedvery successfully. John Williams and Hardy Ward used the string down the center of the chin method and were very good at it. Darrell Pace and I have used the side anchor for years and have been just as successful. It depends on physical structure. As long as one can get in line with the arrow, that is the goal. Let us begin with the center anchor. This anchor is taught in the beginning stages due to it's simplicity. It is easy for a coach to notice when the archer changes their anchor. Most archers can find the center anchor easier than the side anchor. The center anchor is very popular with the Asian popu1ation, while the side anchor is more popular with the European and American archers. A lot of this is due to the facial structure that differs between the two races. The jaw bone is angled differently, thus causing each group to direct themselves to the one anchor that works effectively for their body structure. When using the side anchor, the archer wants to make sure they do not get too far back. Many archers draw the string too far back along the side of their chin causing the string to hit the side of their chin every time they let go. The string oscillates horizontally when it is let go. The first movement is toward the chin, so naturally it will get hit if the string is too far back. The advantages of using the center anchor are simplicity and accuracy. The disadvantages are that it is difficult to extend the neck to get positioned in the

Denise Parker's side anchor

40 THEBASICS-FORM

John Williams's center anchor

right place, many archers tend to see a double image, and it is very hard to get a good line. The advantages of using the side anchor are that it is easy to aim, easy to get good line and easy to execute the shot. The only disadvantage is that it is more difficult to master the accuracy. As I said earlier, both of these anchors have proven to be very good. The archer just needs to make sure that which ever anchor is chosen they work to make it consistent. Most archers use a tab with an anchor device already on it. This device has helped a lot of archers achieve higher scores. It has helped them get to an anchor, either along the side of the chin or in the front. Some archers have a natura1 chin for archery and do not need such a device. I believe that most archers use too large of an anchor device. I have noticed a lot of sore chins due to the large anchor devices used today. Generally, an archer needs just a small area that will touch where they want to anchor. I recommend the anchor tab device be ground, filed or sanded down to make it fit the chin better. It will be more comfortable and it could eliminate the f1inching that comes with hitting the side of the chin after a while. I do not use an anchor tab. I have used a Wilson tab for over 20 years and it has become a very important part of my equipment. Since the tab has an extra piece of leather on it, I could say that it is a very small anchor type tab. I have been blessed with a natural chin for shooting archery .The jaw is rather square and does not slope up sharply on the side. Most archers who need an anchor type tab have a jaw line that rises sharply from the front to the back of the anchor, or they have a rounded front chin. I put the string in the front of my chin but as far to the side without it going behind the chin. Those with a round chin will have a harder time doing this. Since my jaw is square I am still anchoring in the front part of my chin. If I go back slightly behind the front part of the jaw, I will hit it.

THEBASICS-FORM

41

.

I

How to get a good and tight anchor Now, it is important to get in good and tight with the anchor. I firmly put the string on the chin and lay the top of my index finger up against the jaw line. I use the second joint of the index finger to the base of the finger as my anchor. 1 touch the nose ever so lightly. Why? Since the nose is nothing but cartilage it is difficult to get in tight and keep it consistent from day to day. The sensitivity level varies each time an archer shoots. If an archer just touches the nose they will be more consistent with that anchor and could possibly eliminate a lot of high and low arrows. But, it is important to get in firmly along the jaw or chin area. Since there is bone there, the archer should be able to constantly get into their anchor the same even if their sensitivity level varies. Once I anchor, my head just relaxes on top of my draw hand and I keep my motion coming back through the clicker. Since I am not moving my head sideways, I am able to keep my string alignment constant and it is very easy to get through the clicker. A1so, when I let go of the string it is a relaxed effort, not an explosive one. And finally, make sure you stretch both sides of the neck before shooting. When an archer shoots, they repeatedly turn the neck one direction. If they do not stretch both sides of the neck, they will be continuously stretching one side of the neck and not do anything to the opposite side. One side will continue to shorten while the other side will continue to lengthen. This creates an imbalance and a possibility of headaches due to the stress put on the muscles. It is easy to eliminate the problem if the archer continues to stretch both sides of the neck before they shoot. Now that we have developed a good solid anchor we are ready to check our string alignment.

II

I' Firmly put the string on the chin and lay the top of the index finger up against the jaw line.

t

~

42 THEBASICS-FORM

STRING Where

A BC D E

ALIGNMENT to Rut the string blur? What is the purpose for string alignment? What you have is an arrow needing to be aligned at both ends. If we just a1ign the front end the back end could be aimed different1y causing us to miss right, left, high or low. The anchor takes care of the high and low problems. We must use the string and place it somewhere near the bow so we can eliminate the rights and lefts. Basically as an archer comes to anchor, just before they aim they will see out of their secondary vision the blur of the string. Put that string blur somewhere that will stay consistent. It could be in the bow window, on the sight pin, sight block, or anything else that does not move. The archer may want to move the sight pin in order to make corrections right or left. If the sight pin is part of the string alignment, be aware that the alignment will change when the sight is changed. If an archer moves their sight pin to the left, that will change the string a1ignment more to the left as well. Even though the pin is moved to the left in order to shoot to the right, the farther right they move the string alignment the more right they will shoot as well. This will cause them to over compensate. So, if they use the sight pin as the string alignment, they should be careful! Aligning the string should be a natural position to where it is comfortable and consistent. Just because a top archer uses one place does not mean it is the best place for everyone. A good way to find out the best place is to close your eyes before coming to full draw. When you sett1e in to your anchor, open your eyes and see where the string position is. Do this several times and you will find that there is a natural position that is fairly consistent. The more natural it is the less problems you have with it as well as taking less time to check it and reposition it if necessary. Once you have the string a1ignment worked out you need to know how to aim.

A is Japanese archers' string alignment. B is on the sightpino C is the string alignment of Korean archers, D is of Chinese Taipei's archers and E is of Americans.

THEBASICS-FORM 43

AIMING Can we use the Ristol shooting

method?

Aiming has always been a great subject for discussion in the United States. Some coaches say it is best to focus on what is moving (i.e., your sight pin) while the others say that a person shou1d focus on what they want to hit. Some say the focus should be back and forth between the sight pin and the target. That probably is for just a few. Many coaches feel that the pistol shooting method should work for archers. That being the method of focusing on what is moving (the sight pin). The problem is that they do not completely explain why it is so important to focus on the movement. If you have ever shot a pistol you will agree with these people when it comes to shooting a pistol. But we are not shooting a pistol. When using a pistol both ends of the barrel must be lined up. They usually have a "V" notch at one end of the barrel (closest to the eye) and then a post at the other end. When aiming, line up the post inside the "V". A1so,the top of the post should be even with the top of the "V". When a11of this is accomplished, then aim at the target, but keep focused on the sighting device. Obviously, there are a couple of extra factors to consider when shooting a pistol and therefore much more important to focu.s on the sight. We have just one sight pin to focus on and it does not indicate much about alignment up, down, right or left while shooting a bow. So the advantage is the archer's if they just focus on the target. Generally the string alignment will be seen out of the periphery using either method. If focusing on the target while shooting the bow, the archer will generally notice that they will automatically center the ring or pin with little effort. This is because the subconscious will center anything that is looked at. So, in essence, it is not necessary to aim consciously. Just look at what you want to hit. Sometimes when the sight pin just sits on the center of the target the archer freezes and cannot come through the clicker. This is because they want to aim so fine that if they start to come through the clicker, the pin will move as well. This will make the archer want to stop again and get the pin on the center. Many people start and stop a lot. A continuous flow is needed for a good shot, so it is best to let the pin float around a little, while coming through the clicker .

Don

44

THE BASICS-

FORM

Rabska

shoots

with

one eye.

Besides, we are seeing what was a split-second ago. The subconscious has already made the adjustment and the pin is back in the center by the time we have consciously made a decision to re-adjust the pin. This creates an over compensation and now we are on the opposite side of where we were aiming before. Compensation will occur again and the pin will be going back and forth and then we will freeze up or react to a badly aimed shot. Just let the subconscious take control of the aim. A1l it takes is a little beginning effort to get the pin close to the center and the subconscious will gladly take over and really show how to do it. If you ask a lot of top champions, they will say that generally they do not have to aim very hard because it comes naturally. Some can only say that they do not recall how they aimed. It just "happened". That shows how the subconscious can really help if you let it. One or two e~es? When aiming, should you use one or both eyes? This varies according to comfort level. The most important part is to make sure the dominate eye is used. If the right eye is dominant the archer should be shooting right handed and vice versa. Most research verifies this to be very accurate. If the left eye is dominant then the archer should be shooting left handed. Just consider it safe to make sure which ever dominant eye the archer has, they should aim with it. If using one eye open and one eye closed, be aware that it can cause peaking or looking for the arrow before it hits the target. This can cause movement in the bow hand before the arrow leaves in anticipation of where it might hit. This is mainly due to not being able to focus as clearly as with two eyes. When using two eyes the archer can focus directly at the target and then when the shot is executed, the archer can still focus on the target and see the arrow hit the center without trying to peak. Watching the Koreans, you will notice their eyes stay open (most of them) and they never lose the focus on the target (or what they want to hit). Some people have a hard time trying to use both eyes because they may see double vision or see multiple targets. This of course is no good and they may have to use just one eye. There are eye exercises that an archer can do to strengthen their aim. Most archers' eyes fatigue during a long day of shooting, but many are not aware of it. Many eye specialists can educate the archer on which type of exercise is needed to help increase the archer's aim. Just remember that if you aim with one eye closed, keep the one eye closed until the arrow hits the target. Focus on the target without changing that focus, before, during and after the execution and it should be a good shot. Try both ways and play with them to see which is most comfortable. Again, the natural way will be best. It will be more consistent if it is comfortable and natural.

THEBASICS-FORM 45

~

PROPER

DRA W LENGTH

Standard

to decide

the QroQer draw

length

What is the proper draw length? Is it where it is most comfortable? Is it the farthest draw one can make? Is it at the length the archer can quickly push and/or pull through the clicker if they need to? There have been many discussions about the right draw length. I personally look at the top archers and notice that most are consistent in their draw. It is one with the proper form that is a naturallook. Unfortunately we cannot say that it is where the archer is most comfortable. If so, then the archer will need to read Dave Keaggy's book on "Power Archery". It recommends the archer raise the front bow shoulder up high. After all, that is where it is going to end up right? Wrong! Only if the archer is not in good shape. The front bow shoulder should be level with the drawing shoulder. The best way to know how the front shoulder should be is to raise your arms trying to rela:x the shoulders at the same time. Look in the mirror. Notice that the shoulder does not rise unless a concerted effort is made. It will rise if the shoulder is kept tense. Remember to relax them. Notice that they are level, keeping in mind the front shoulder will be in the proper position once the draw is started if the effort is to keep reaching for the target while keeping the shoulder relaxed. The back shoulder should be about the same, but I will get into that in much more detail in a chapter a little later on. Essentially the archer should be looking for a rela:xed shoulder, but one that is extended properly. Also, lf the head is in the proper position, the archer will be able to anchor well and the feel of the proper draw length is much easier than one that is over drawn or under drawn. Practice extending the front arm and the shoulder willlock into place very easily. Also, do not let the clicker determine the draw. This will be discussed later as well. Sometimes people set their draw length at a place that theycan come through the clicker real fast if they need to. This is very difficult to master because it takes extra muscle to be able hold the position. Since they are not using much of the skeletal system, it all depends on the muscles. It usually is very difficult to get through the clicker in the first place because of the extra muscle effort that needs to be used. Also, if the archer is over extended, it will be very difficult getting through the clicker because they are so stretched out that there is no place to go naturally, so they over extend to get through the dicker. It may be by raising the bow hand or lowering the drawing elbow or moving the anchor on the chin. All of these are detrimental and will cause a lot of inaccuracies. Just remember to keep a relaxed and natural state.

46

THE BASICS -FORM

THE

CLI

CKER

Push-oull

through the clicker Which is the best way? Should an archer push or pull? I believe both must be used. But archers will do one of them without knowing it. I have watched many archers who say that they only pul1 or they only push but, if watched closely they do both. The difference is that they do one automatical1y and do not even know it. The one they claim to do is the one that they are weakest at and they focus on that particular one because when they do it right the arrow goes into the middle. Since the one side does it automatical1y and they focus on the other side, then it flows in harmony with the automatic side they final1y are doing it right and the arrow goes in the center. Now they feel as though they have discovered the secret, "you only need to 'pul1' or 'push' through the clicker". They should restate that they only need to focus on one or the other . I have watched Denise Parker shoot many times. She and her coach say that she must focus on pul1, nothing else. If you see any film of Denise, she does both. The push comes so automatic she doesn't have to focus on it, making it seem to her that she only pulls. Also her bow arm is her best trait of the two. Her release sometimes is not above the normal. But when it works wel1, her score is world class. The opposite example is myself. For years I have only focused on my bow arm. I know that if I just keep that bow arm going straight to the target, the arrow will go in the middle. Very seldom have I ever focused on my pul1 or my release. Many people question my release, but no one can question the results. I have said many times that the release is not important. That is because I have better line than most and rea1ly do not have to worry about it. It just comes natura1. I read an article about Denise some time ago. This encouraged me to try to just focus on my pul1 and release. I could not believe how poorly I shot. I could not get my rhythm or execut~on of the shot right. Now, I know that Denise is one fine archer, but could she be wrong? I asked a lot of archers and found that the results were mixed. Then when I watched what their best attribute was versus their focus I found a pattern. They all seemed to focus on their weak points and turned them into their strong points. Also, I was told that my release was the best there is in archery. This shocked me until it was explained why and how. Both push and pul1are needed, but you need to find out which one functions automatica1ly and which one needs a lot of work.

focus on the bow arm

Oenise Parker focuses on pull.

THEBASICS-FORM

47

Stog-start

or continuous motion through the clicker There are basically two options to get the clicker to go off. The first is the easiest to learn but the most difficult to be consistent. Stopping and starting is one that the largest majority of the archers use. This method is very simple to use, but as I said before, very difficult to master. Unfortunately this is the method taught all too often. What happens is that when the archer is taught the nine steps to the ten ring they are taught each step as individual moves. A lot of start and stop methods. Basically when the archer draws the bow back the muscles are activated automatically the amount required to do the skill. When the archer stops, the muscles start to fatigue and more muscles are called upon to maintain the amount of energy equal to the amount of bow poundage that is held. Eventua1ly the archer has recruited too many muscles to get the arrow off. This causes the archer to let go of the arrow with little control. Much like an explosion. Stopping and starting requires a lot of energy to get the shot off and most of the time the outcome is less than successful. A1so,when the archer is aiming they will stop the draw when the pin leaves the gold. This becomes a never ending battle because each time they start to draw the arrow through the clicker the pin will move and then they stop again to get it back on. Fina1ly the archer is so tired they don't mind moving a little bit and they explode off the shot. Sometimes they hit what they aim at and sometimes they do not. We call it gambling. The continuous method is the most successful skill an archer can acquire. What happens is that when they start the draw or motion, they continue to keep drawing until the clicker clicks and then let go. This does not mean that the archer has to keep moving at the same speed. Actually it looks like once they start to focus on the target they stop, but the archer is still moving at a much slower pace. When one keepsmoving they have activated only the muscles necessary to get the bow back and since they are still moving they are not working any harder and thus not fatiguing very fast. Once the clicker clicks, generally the archer has not activated much more muscle and since they are using a very limited amount of muscle they are able to control the shot and the execution comes off so much cleaner .

48 THEBASICS-FORM

There are some very important elements to remember in order to do this correctly. First, the bow shoulder needs to be kept down. If it starts to rise then a11 the pulling that is done only equals the rise of the shoulder. This means that the arrow is not moving at a11.Also, the head needs to stay relaxed and let it float back with the draw. If these two things are done right, getting through the c1icker will be very easy. If the motion is continuous, it will be surprising how accurate the archer becomes. Do not worry about the aiming so much. That becomes automatic. The Koreans practice the continuous method. One of their strongest attributes is that they combine many steps into one, thus helping the archer recognize the importance of one continuous motion. Some archers believe in the "bent" elbow (bow arm) method. If they leave a little extra room they can "push" off any time if necessary. This is not good for recurve archery. As a matter of fact, I have never met a World or Olympic Champion who does it this way. Some look like they do it, but it is the physical make-up of the archer's body that makes it look as though they have a bent elbow. Darrell Pace and Luann Ryon, both Olympic Gold Medalists, are perfect examples of archers who have locked elbows, but look as though they have room to push!

The head needs to stay relaxed and let it float back with the draw.

Do not bend the elbow.

.but he has with the

THEBASICS-FORM

49