Ren

Large Crochet Moose Free Pattern

Meet Art and Muddy, They are about 13 inches tall. I used Red Heart Comfort yarn with a 5mm hook. Art is the beige moose I made for my father (Art) on Father's Day this year. Muddy is my brown moose that I tested my pattern with. I absolutely adore them both and I hope you do too. (see my Dad with his moose here) And please feel free to name your moose anything you want! Art's overalls are also a free pattern here on my blog, pick up that pattern here. Use the same yarn weight and hook size that you make your moose with. The overalls were originally intended for a bunny with a big bushy tail. After you put the overalls on your moose feel free to sew up most of the gap and just leave enough room for the moose tail. Scroll down this page for the moose pattern. There is a print friendly

buttonat the bottom of this pattern and also the option to leave a donation. Thank you so much and enjoy!

   

 

 

 

 

 

Supplies: Red Heart Comfort yarn.  Brown moose ~ Mocha 3191 with antlers in Cream 3240 Beige Moose ~  Tan 3167 with antlers in Mocha 3191 5.0 mm or 4.5 mm hook *use a smaller hook if you  see gaps in your stitches blunt end yarn needle for sewing scissors 100% polyester stuffing you can use buttons, a french knot or paint eyes on. I used 10mm and 15mm safety eyes that I glued in place. 8 pipe cleaners or some wire for the antlers

Abbreviations: st = stitch sc = single crochet dc =  double crochet * used for thumbs only ch1 = chain one sl st = slip stitch  2tog = crochet 2 stitches together  f/o = finish off

Click on photos to enlarge them

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How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row. *The head and body are worked in one piece. If you plan to install safety eyes they are placed in between the 11th and 12th row with 6 or 7 visible stitches between them.  Add in a marker at the end of row 2 and move that marker at the end of every row. There are assembly instructions at the bottom of this page.  Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body:  1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) 2) 2sc in each (12)  3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18) 4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24) 5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30) 6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36) 7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42) 8) 1sc in next 13st then 2sc in next st (45) 9-16) 1sc in each st for 8 rows 17) 1sc in next 13st then 2tog (42) 18) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)

19) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30) 20) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24) 21) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18) 22) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15) 23) 2sc in each st (30) *stuff and shape head 24-28) 1sc in each st for 5 rows  29) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36) 30) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42) 31-35) 1sc in each st for 5 rows 36) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36) 37) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30) 38) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24) 39) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18) *stuff and shape body. Be sure to fill any stuffing gaps in the neck 40) 1sc then 2tog (12) *stuff over the next 2 rows as needed 41) 1sc then 2tog (8)  f/o leaving a tail for closing up the gap. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches and pull tight to close. Knot off and hide yarn tails in the body. Arms:  1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) 2) 2sc in each st (12)  3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15) 4) 1sc in each st for 1 row 5) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12) 6) 1sc in each st for 1 row 7) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10) 8-16) 1sc in each st for 9 rows    f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.  If you'd like to add thumbs as I did then insert yarn in between the 5th and 6th row, ch1 then add in 4dc. f/o and shape the thumb with the finishing yarn tail. knot off and hide yarn tails inside hand. Stuff hand firmly and stuff arm lightly.

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Legs: 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) 2) 2sc in each (12)  3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18) 4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24) 5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30) 6-7) 1sc in each st for 2 rows 8) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24) 9) (1sc then 2tog x 6) 1sc in next 6st (18) 10) 1sc in each st for 1 row

11) (1sc then 2tog x 4) 1sc in next 6st (14) *stuff and shape foot 12-22) 1sc in each st for 11 rows *stuff and shape foot after 2 or 3 rows *stuff leg at the end of row 22. After you complete row 22, sc until you get to the side of the leg. Fold flat, ch1 turn and sc through both sides of the leg to close up the top ofthe leg. ch1 turn and sc across again then  f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

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Snout: for the nostrils I added in 2 french knots in between rows 5 and 6, spacing canvary. You can do this before or after you stuff the snout and sew the snout in place. I prefer after so I don't have to worry so much about centering the snout when sewing it on the head  1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) 2) 2sc in each (12)  3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18) 4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24) 5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30) 6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36) 7) 1sc in next 11st then 2sc in next st (39) 8-11) 1sc in each st for 4 rows 12) 1sc in next 11st then 2tog (36) 13) 1sc in each st for 1 row 14) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30) 15) 1sc in each st for 1 row 16) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24) 17) 1sc in each st for 1 row 18) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20) sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff and shape, partially sew to head and stuff more as needed.   Mouth: 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) 2) 2sc in each (12)  3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18) 4) 1sc in next 8st then 2sc in next st (20) sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Tongue: 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) 2) 2sc in each (12) work starting yarn tail into this row 3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)

f/o and weave in yarn tail place wrong sides of the mouth and the tongue together, sew the end of the tongue to the mouth as pictured. You can sew the mouth to the snout before or after you sew the snout to the head. I prefer after but  you do what will work best for you. Sew the back end of mouth overand around the 13th to the 16th row of the snout and leave the front of the mouth open. I sewed the mouth off to one side a bit and not right in the center, that way you can see the mouth more. click on the photos to enlarge them

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Ears: 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) 2) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (8)  3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10) 4) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (12) 5) 1sc in each st for 1 row 6) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15) 7-8) 1sc in each st for 2 rows ch1, bring the corners of row 8 together and sc through both sides at the same time, going across to seal up the open edge. Then ch1, turn and sc across again. f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

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Tail: 1) ch6. Begin with a long enough starting tail you can sew into the body 2) sl st the 2nd ch from the hook, 1hdc in next 3 ch's, sl st last ch. f/o with a long

enough tail you can sew into the body. Antlers: 1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) 2) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (8)  3) 1sc in each st for 1 row 4) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10) 5) 2sc in each st (20) 6) 1sc then 2sc in next st (30) 7-10) 1sc in each st for 4 rows 11) 1sc in next 13st the 2tog (28) 12) 1sc in next 5st the 2tog (24) 13) 1sc in each st for 1 row 14) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20) 15) 1sc in each st for 1 row 16) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (16)  17) 1sc in each st for 1 row 18) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12) 19) 1sc in each st for 1 row 20) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)  21-23) 1sc in each st for 3 rows  sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.  Antler Points: For the points, flatten the antler then pull yarn through the side of the antler. ch1, put in 4hdc and f/o leaving a bit of a tail for shaping. On each side of the antler: The 1st point, pull the yarn through in between the 7th and 8th row The 2nd point  in between the 12th and 13th row The 3rd point  in between the 17th and 18th row click on photos to enlarge them

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Each point will have 2 yarn tails. Hide the starting yarn tail inside the antler. Use the finishing yarn tail to shape the point. Squeeze the point so that the edges touch then put in 2 holding whip stitches, f/o and hide the yarn tail inside the antler. Hiding the yarn tails just means pull them inside with your yarn needle and cut off the end.

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For the antler to stand up off the head you need to add in either a wire or some pipe cleaners. Wire would probably make this a bit easier but I had none on hand when I

made the moose so instead I used 4 pipe cleaners per antler. This seems to work very well for me. Lay 2 pipe cleaners side by side and bend them in the middle just enough so that you can push them through the opening. Push them in just a little then using the back end of a pencil or stick push them all the way in so that the bend reaches the other end of the antler. Using the stick push the pipe cleaners to each side so that they outline the inside of the antler just like they are in the first picture below but on the inside. When you're done cut off any excess that is sticking out. Add in a couple holding stitches to keep the sides of the pipe cleaners in place. 

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Take 2 more pipe cleaners and again bend them in the middle just enough so that they fit through the opening, push them about half way inside leaving the ends sticking out. Cut the ends even with about 2 inches sticking out, twist each pair of ends. These will be pushed into the head when you're ready to sew the antlers in place. Again, add in a couple holding stitches to keep the pipe cleaners in place.

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The Flower: This is just a silly flower I threw together last minute. I was not planning on including it in the pattern but someone has requested it so here we go.  Start with yellow1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) 2) 1sc then 2sc in next st, switch to white on very last sc (9)  continuing on with the petals: *sc next st then ch4, 1hdc in each ch starting with the 2nd ch from hook*. Repeat steps between the * and the  * for each petal all the way around, sl st last st. You should have 8 petals. weave in all yarn tails. Take 2 pipe cleaners, bend them in half and push them through the middle of the flower, making sure to go through 2 different stitch holes for each end. Twist 2 ends together and shape the other 2 ends into leaves.

   MOOSE ASSEMBLY: Take your time when sewing. Take breaks when you need them. Use pins to hold the parts in place and play around with the placements to be sure you are happy with how the parts look before sewing them in permanently. 1) sew on the snout. The top should be on or touching row 13 and the bottom on or touching row 19 . You can also sew the mouth piece on now if you haven't already. See instructions for sewing in the mouth and tongue section above. 2) sew the arms on the 24th row or the 2nd row below the head. 3) sew on the legs. Place the flaps of the legs close to the front of the body, overlap the 2 inner edges of the flaps.   4) sew the tail on in between the 34th and 35th row. 5) sew antlers on the 4th and 5th row. The pipe cleaners need to be wiggled into place. This part takes a bit of time but they will go in. Wire would go in much easier. Sew all around the edge of the antler and pull your stitches tight. 6) sew  the ears on the 6th and 7th row.   click on photos to enlarge them

Copyright 2015 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved