Recipes from River Cottage Ever Day by Hugh-Fearnley Whittingstall

For Marie, for for every day

Text copyright © 2009 by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Photography copyright © 2009 by Simon Wheeler Additional photography copyright © 2009 by Marie Derôme (pages 25, 330–31, 354) Illustrations copyright © 2009 by Mariko Jesse All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.tenspeed.com Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon a re registered trademarks of Random House, Inc. Originally published in slightly different form in Great Britain by Bloomsbury Publishing Pl c, London, in 2009

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh. River Cottage every every day / Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstal l ; photography by Simon Wheeler. p. cm. Includes index. Summary: “A “A collection of more than 180 appealing everyda y recipes from the bestselling author of the River Cottage series”—Provided by publisher.  1. Cooking (Natural foods) 2. Cooking, English. 3. River Cottage (Televisi on program program)) I. Titl Title. e. TX741.F426 2011   641.5’636—dc22   2010046949 ISBN 978-1-60774-098-8 Printed in China Project editor: Janet Illsley Copy editor: Jane Middleton Cover design: Chloe Rawlins Interior design: Lawrence Morton Photography: Simon Wheeler Illustrations: Mariko Jesse (www.marikojesse.com) The text of this book is set in Avant Garde Gothic and Serifa 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First U. S. Edition

MAKING BREAKFAST

Baked breakfast cheesecake I know the idea of cheesecake for breakfast sounds odd, but this simple recipe is a great way to start the day day,, especially if you ser ve it with some fresh berries o r a fruit compote. It is incredibly easy to throw together since there’s no cr ust, and you can get it on the table in little more than half an hour. Besides making a luxurious weekend breakfast or brunch, it is also a delicious desse rt. Until recently, recently, I thickened the cheese mixture with a little semo lina or flour, but I tried usin g oatmeal inst ead and the result was so success ful that I now usually do it this way. way. If using salted goat cheese, don’t add salt to the recipe.

Serves 10

Preheat the oven o ven to 325ºF 325ºF..

21 ounces ricotta cheese or cream cheese, or soft, very mild goat cheese (preferably unsalted)

Generously butter a 9-inch springform cake pan.

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

Beat the cheese with a wooden spoon until smooth, then add the melted butter, oatmeal, semolina, or flour, salt, sugar, eggs, and orange zest and juice, and mix well (feel free to whiz the ingredients in a food processor). Fold in the raisins, if using.

3 tablespoons quick oats, fine semolina, or whole-wheat pastry flour

Spoon the mixture into the prepared p an and bake for about 25 minutes, until just set, with a slight wobble in the center.

A good pinch of sea salt /  cup superfine sugar

1 2

2 eggs, lightly beaten Finely grated zest of 2 small oranges, plus 1 tablespoon juice 3 tablespoons raisins (optional) To serve:

Fresh fruit or fruit compote (see pages 339–44) Yogurt or sour cream (optional)

44

Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature with some fresh fruit or fruit compote, and, if you like , yogurt or sour cream.

THRIFTY MEAT

Slow-roast Slow-r oast shoulder of lamb with merguez spices Lamb shoulder is an underrated cut . Treated to a very long, slow roast with pungent spices , it offers melt ingly soft, flavorful meat that you can pull o ff the bone easily – as well as a pool of rich juices. This recipe works best with larger, more mature ma ture la mbs mbs.. You can a lso rub the spice paste on t he inside of a boned lamb shoulder, then roll and tie it. Give it an initial 30 minutes at a high temperature (as below), then roast a t 325°F for 2 1/ 2 hours.

Serves 6 to 10, depending on the size of the roast  For the spice paste :

1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1

/2 cinnamon stick, broken up 1 teaspoon black peppercorns A pinch of cayenne pepper or chile powder 2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Leaves from 2 large rosemary sprigs, finely chopped 2 teaspoons sea salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 shoulder of mature lamb, on the bone

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Preheat the oven o ven to 425°F 425°F.. If you have time, toast the cumin, coria nder, fennel seeds, cinnamon, and peppercorns in a dry frying pan over medium heat for a minute or so, until fragrant (this boosts the flavor but isn’t essential). Crush to a coarse powder using a mortar and pestle, then combine with the cayenne or chile powder, paprika, garlic, rosemary, salt, and olive oil. Lightly score the skin of the meat with a sharp knife, making shallow slashes about 1/8 inch deep and 3/4 inch apart. Rub half the spice paste all over the lamb shoulder, underneath as well as on top, and especially into the cuts. Put into a large roasting pan and place in the oven. Roast for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and rub the remaining spice paste over the meat using the back of a wo oden spoon. Pour a glass of water into the pan (not over the meat), cov er with foil, and return to the ov en. Reduce the heat to 250°F and cook for 6 hours, or until the meat is very tender and falling off the bone. You can add another glass of water halfway through, to keep the pan juices from scorching. Transfer the lamb to a warm serving plate. Skim the excess fat off the  juicess in the pan.  juice p an. Tear the meat me at into thick t hick shreds sh reds and serve with w ith the  juicess spooned  juice spoon ed over. Simple Simp le accompani acc ompaniments ments are ar e all you yo u need: need : boiled boile d new potatoes (in summer) or some roasted squash (in winter) and a dish of shredded cabbage, greens, or kale would be ideal.

V E G E TA TA B L E S G A L O R E

Six roasted vegetables Roasted vegetables – root vegetables and winter squashes in particular – are rarely less le ss than delicious. delic ious. The roasting process proce ss intensifies intensi fies flavor, flavor, bring bringss out sweetness, sweetnes s, and adds a rich, ric h, carameliz ed exterior. exter ior. It’s forgiving to the cook (you can be relaxed about timings, and serve your vegetables hot, warm, or cold) and ver satile too. The following recipes reci pes make fantastic accompaniments but can also be the main focus of a meal, with just a little something else on the side. Leftover roasted roots can be tossed into salads or puréed in soups, or just nibbled cold as an e xtra something in your lunch box. So you can see why this is a method I return to time and again.

Roast squash with w ith chile, chile, garlic, and rosemary Butter nut squash is delicio us roasted in this way, way, but do try some alter native squashes and pumpkins pump kins if you get the chance. Sugar pie pumpkins are outstandin g, as are acorn squash. This makes an excellen e xcellentt side dish di sh for sausages , chops, roast chicken, or robust fish. Since it i t is creamy and an d starchy, starchy, I tend to serve s erve roast squash instead in stead of, rather than as well as, any kind of spuds . On the other hand, han d, dished up with wit h steamed rice r ice and some sautéed greens or a green salad, this makes a lovely vegetarian main course.

Serves 4

Preheat the oven to 375°F 375°F..

1 large butternut squash, about 2 pounds, or the equivalent weight of acorn or other squash or pumpkin

Slice the squash into quarters and seed it, scooping out the seeds

6 to 8 fat garlic cloves, skin on, lightly squashed

them, but you can peel it off if you prefer. Cut the squash into wedges or chunks and put them in a small roasting pan. Add the garlic and rosemary, the chopped chile, and lots of salt and pepper.

A few sprigs of rosemary

Drizzle with 2 to 3 tablespoons of oil and toss together. Roast in

1 fairly hot red chile, seeded and finely chopped

the oven for 40 to 55 minutes, stirring halfway through, until the

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Meanwhile, if using nuts, toast them in a dry frying pan over

4 to 5 tablespoons canola or olive oil

over the roasted squash. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and

1

/3 cup pine nuts or walnuts (optional) Juice of 1/2 lemon

312

with a spoon. I leave the skin on most squashes when I’m roasting

squash is completely soft and starting to caramelize. medium heat for a few minutes, until golden brown, then scatter another good drizzle of oil, then serve.