Rapunzel Crochet

Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs  

Rapunzel Crochet Pattern

 This pattern was designed by Chiara Chiara Cremon aka  aka  @chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

A message for you Hell llo o dea earr fello llow cro croche cheters ters!! My name ame is Chia iarra (pro pronounc ounced ed “K “Kia iara ra””, as I’m Itali talia an) and I’m not  only th the e girl in the pict icture down th the ere but, most importa rtantly, th the e person behind the Instagram account @chiacrafts! In th the e very begi begin nning ing cro rocche hett was, for me, noth nothin ing g more th tha an a Sunda nday hobb obby, us use eful ful to kee eep p my mind ind bus usy y an and d far away fr fro om di disa sast ster er fa fan nta tasi sies es.. Whe When I first ope opene ned d my Ins nsta tag gra ram m account nt,, I’d have never imagined achieving such success, but it quickly grew and many people expressed inte interres estt in re rep pro rod duc ucin ing g my cre creati tio ons :D, :D, which ich bro broug ugh ht me to start tart typi typin ng dow down and sha sharin ring my patterns!  These free patterns are a token of my appreciation for your support, a present for you. Overall  they are written with accuracy and style very close to my paying patterns: this is, IMO, one more re reas ason on to re resp spec ectt them them!! Plea Please se,, pay pay at atte tent ntio ion n to the the in inst stru ruct ctio ions ns re repo port rted ed in the the li liccen ense se,, an and d try try to comply with my wishes indicated there:)

 Just let me thank you once again for your love and support. You’re all a source of great  motivation for me!

Cheers, Chiara 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Licence Hello, and thank you for being about to try out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and personal effort :)

Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind ;) DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also prohibited.  The fact this pattern pattern has been been provided provided to you for for free DOESN’T DOESN’T MEAN it’s copyright copyright free or or that  you can do whatever you want with it. On the contrary, the fact it’s a present should motivate you  to respect it even more! more! This document document can only only be found found in my Ravelry Ravelry shop (link in the header). If you found it in any other location you’re reading an unauthorized copy: please download another one from the official location. DO NOT reuse my pictures. DO NOT NOT use it as a base to create your original charact cte ers. Remem member ber th tha at my wish ish is for th this is free pat patter ern n to be used sed to re rep pro rod duc uce e this this cha characte cter onl nly: y: if you do it for prac acti ticce, pl ple ease kee eep p it of off  f  social media :) You’re allowed, however, to use it as a support to crochet other of my princesses' patterns (in case you’d you’d need more complete tips or the new shape of the head).  This pattern is intended for personal use only. only. Please give me cre credits when posti tin ng online by always adding “Pa Patt tter ern n by @chia @chiacr craf afts ts”” and #chiacraftspatterns (both both)). If you don’t post post onli line ne,, I woul uld d very muc uch h lik like to rec ecei eiv ve a pi pict ctur ure e of  your work anyway :D Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and hel elp p me carry on  this activity. Thank you for listening listening :) For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questio tions via private message on Ravelry, ry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwi rwise. I always answer :)

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

stacking concentric layers. There aren’t parts rts worked in joined rounds in this t his pattern.

Read Me

When worki When orking ng in row rows, in inst stea ead, d, at the the en end d of ea each ch row you shou should ld tu turn rn your wor ork k and pro roccee eed d in th the e opposite direction: the first st of a row should,  therefore,, be worked in the last stitch of the  therefore

 Pay attention to the the details!

ionugs a r2oD w,sha thpues. Whe pro cew edoirnkgingziin g-rzoaw gs, ayn cprreeavtin ti Wh en od u sh shou ould ld al alw ways mak make a  turning chain at the end of  each row of sc to help you better turn your work.  This turning chain might not be always always explicitly reported in the pattern, but it’s visible in the diagrams.  The only case case where you should NOT make a  turning chain is when you make a decrease at the beginning of a row (you skip the first stitch sti tch and start working in the second). When Wh en work workin ing g in row rows, afte afterr a ch chai ain, n, alw alway ays s star start  t  secon ond d loop oop fr from om hook ook, if not specifie fr fro om th the e sec ified otherwise.

 Take  Take a go good od look at at all the pictures pictures and don’t don’t be afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they’re so small it’s quite fast :) It's a good practice to read the whole document  before starting. Knowing what to expect will help you pay attention!

 Tips and Tutorials Tutorials You find quick video tutorials on how to work in rounds, rows and how to execute all the basic outube ube cha chann nnel el.. I advise you to stitches in my Yout have a look in case you should be unsure about  how to work. Anywa yway, all the stitches are quite stand tanda ard rd,, so you migh ight as well jus ustt type type th the e na nam me of the stitch on google, and follow the first    tutorial popping popping out. You also find some useful tips related to my patterns in my In Inst stag agra ram m gu guid ides es.. I strongly recommend taking a look if this is the first time you’re following one of my patterns! This materi teria al is const sta antl tly y evol volving: ing: I keep imp improvin ving in ex expl plai aini ning ng myse myself lf an and d I ke keep ep en enri rich chin ing g it it.. That That's 's why I'm not linking any post to specific parts of    the document. document.

Also, both when working ing in rows and working ing in rounds, work the stitches always through the entir entire e st stit itch ch,, not in the back loops or front loops only,, unless specified otherwise. only

For left-handed people If you you’re ’re le left ft-ha -hande nded, d, every everythi thing ng is mi mirr rror or-l -lik ike e for for you!! you Right-handed people should work in the round clockwise, keeping the crochet hook between  them and the work. Le Left ft-h -han ande ded d peop people le shou should ld work wo rk in the the roun round d coun counte terc rclo lock ckwi wise se keep keepin ing g th the e work between them and the crochet hook. Right-handed should work in rows proceeding from right to left, left left-h -han ande ded d shou should ld wo work rk fr from om left eft to rig igh ht . The Therefor efore e, you ca can n easil sily foll llo ow th this is pattern keeping in mind to always swap in inst stru rucctio tions spe specul ula arly: for exa xam mple le,, if I say say th that  at   the stitch marker should be placed on the left side of the doll, that makes it the right side for you, and so on.

Rounds and Rows Rounds,, Par arts ts of this this pa patt tter ern n ha have ve been been worke orked d in Rounds Rows.. others in Rows When working in rounds, the first stitch of a round must be worked upon the first sti tittch of the previous one, thus proceeding in spiral and creating a 3D hollow shape. This technique is rounds. known as continuous rounds. Another way of working in rounds is the  joined rounds one: in this case, you start each round with a chain, work the first st in the stitch right   belo low w th the e cha hain in,, and you end each round und wit ith h a sl in th the e first st. You don’t proceed in a spiral, but by

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 Tip: measure your gauge

Stitch marker usage

Measure the dimensions of your stitches or compare them with those of the rest of the project   to understand understand if you’re proceeding proceeding well. For example: the stitches of the wig are smaller  than those of of the head, despite the indications indications said to work it with the same tension? It will most  likely not fit :) If you’re planning on making more characters of   the same series, series, and you want to make them all alike, don’t forget to keep another doll close so you can compare the sts dimensions and adjust  your gauge.  Tiny variations in the the thickness of the yarn, your your mood, but also other factors such as lighting,  together with your your natural improvement improvement as a crafter, can play a role in impacting your gauge.  That’s perfectly perfectly normal! Just take your your time to adjust it if needed.

I place the stitch marker on the LAST st of the round.. I.E.: in my patterns, it marks the end of the round round.

 Don’t work inside out! If you’re working correctly and you’re right  handed, you should work clockwise keeping the crochet hook between you and the work (counterclockwise if you're left-handed). If you’re right handed and you’re working counterclockwise keeping the work between you and your crochet  hook, then you’re working inside out. You’ll have a hard time following this pattern if you do so, I’d suggest you correct it.

 YU vs YO stitches Some parts in this pattern are worked YU (Yarn Under) i.e. using the “X” stitch. Others are worked YO (yarn over), over), i.e. using the “V” stitch. You find more info about the two in the dedicated post in my IG profile.  The choice of of stitch type is mainly mainly aesthetical aesthetical and doesn’t impact the result more than how a change in gauge would. Feel free to follow it all using only 1 kind of stitch, if that makes you more comfortable.

Gauge I used to work the body of my dolls extremely  tight. Since it’s it’s not easy easy to work as as tight as I do and I want to make my patterns as reproducible as possible, for this series I tried loosening up my  tension a bit. bit. Using the “x” stitch helped helped a lot! lot! The fact the stitch is “fuller” allows me to work a bit  more relaxed while still avoiding annoying holes in the fabric.  The pattern is still to be worked worked tight, but don’t  don’t  go crazy or finger-breaking ;)

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Abbreviations * These are standard US standard abbreviations + something I’ve made up to ease the reading. ★ R = Round (continuous or joined) ★ Row = row ★ MR = Magic Ring ★ st  st = = stitch ★ sk = skip ★ sc = single crochet  ★ inc = sc inc increa ease se (in invi visi sib ble sc in inccre rea ase, se, i.e i.e. 1st sc in FL, 2nd through the entire st   when working in rounds, [2 sc] through  the entire st when when working working in rows) rows) ★ dec = sc decrease (invisible sc decrease when working in rounds, sc2tog when working in rows) ★ dc = double crochet  ★ hdc = half double crochet  ★ ch = chain ★ sl = slip stitch ★  tr = treble crochet  ★ BLO = back loop only (corr rre espon spond ds to th the e ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

inner loop when working in rounds) FLO = fr fron ontt loop only (cor orre resp spon ond ds to th the e outer loop when working in rounds) [ ] = means that the stitches are to be done in the same loop or stitch CY-P -PO O = cut the yarn and pull it out from  the stitch IJ = Invisible Join FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ) stsc = standing sc  tch = turning chain rc = rising chain

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy result: maximum 1 size bigger!

Materials

Dimensions

★ 2.0 mm hook ★  Tapestry  Tapestry needle ★ 8mm black safety eyes ★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other)

Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most  importantly,, working tight!!!), the finished importantly amigurumi will be about 13x5 cm.

★ Yarn all in the same size of the following

colors: ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Peach (skin) Mustard (hair) Pink (dress) Antique pink (dress) Violet (dress) White (dress) Grey (pan)  Tiny scraps of black black to work work the eye embroidery

 Note on the eyes eyes  The right safety safety eye size depends depends on the doll’s doll’s dimensions! Don’t purchase 8 mm eyes if you’re not sure the dimensions of your doll will be similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box with many different sizes, and use the one which better suits your doll. Approximately, safety eyes should be 2.5 stitches wide.

 Note on the yarn yarn I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a yarn made to be worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in 1 size, so you can’t go wrong). As usual when working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size smaller than indicated to better work the body  tight, thus avoiding holes holes in the ccrochet rochet from which the stuffing would be visible or fall  through. You should get a good result with wit h this pattern as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, brand/size, work  the body tight with athe hook 1 size sma smaller ller than . indicated, and scale other hooks accordingly. accordingly

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18) R17: 18 sc (18) R18: 18 sc BLO (18) It’s important  for you to work R18 BLO, the skirt  will be worked in the FLs left! R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16) Booty finished :) R20: 16 sc (16) R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14) R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12) R23: 2 sc, 1 sc changing to peach, 1 sc, dec, 4 sc dec (10) (the color change should fall on the back) Wait before stuffing the body. R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)

Legs Hook: 2.0 Work tight  Work YU Start with peach yarn R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) R2-R13: 6 sc (6) Make 2 legs.  The legs don’t don’t need stuffing! stuffing! CY-PO after making the first leg. Leave a long tail in case some sewing should be needed. Don’t cut the yarn after making the second leg instead; you’ll keep on working from there to join  the legs. Make 2.

Body Hook: 2.0 Work tight  Work YU Work starting from the 2nd leg made. Change color to antique pink  Join the legs: R14: 3 sc in 2nd leg, ch2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16) (Start working in the 1st leg from the 1st st of  R13!)

Stop to work a row of white surfa rface slip stitc itches between R22 and R23, on top of the color change. Do these sl before stuffing up to that   point! Work using a 2.0 hook, but very loosely. Proceed this way all along the color change line, end with an IJ:

You can also add some embroideries:

R15: 16 sc (16) Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

R32: 1 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (40) Here’s an example of a possible adaptation. R32: 1 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc 4 sc, 1 inc (40) R33-R34: 40 sc (40) Your our work ork sh shou ould ld lo look ok as in the the fol ollo lowi wing ng pi pict ctur ure. e. Mark two spots at a distance of 7 stitches (1st   stit titch marker on th the e 1st, second on th the e 7th th)). Thi This dist distan ancce will will corr corres espo pond nd to the the dist distan ance ce be betw twee een n  the eyes,

 Then, stuff the body. body.  Then keep working in peach peach color: color: R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6) Now 2 rounds for the neck R26-R27: 6 sc (6) (6) Neck done, now we start the head R28: 6 inc (12) R29: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18) R30: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24) R31: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (36)  This is how your your work should should look so far: should be a flat disk.

In R32, we’re going to work some increases on  the front and and single crochet crochet on the back. Mark 20 sc on the back of the t he doll. On the back, you’re going to work 20 sc, from one stitch marker to the other. On the front, you’re going to work some

You’re going to work sc until right before the 1st  stitch marker, marker, then 1 dec, then 7 sc, then 1 dec,  then end the round with sc. In my case, case, the pattern ended up being: R35: 3 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc (38)

increases placed at a distance of 4 sc. You might  need to change the way you distribute these increases before and after the end of the round based on where you find yourself at the end of  R31.

R36-R41: 38 sc (38) R42: (17 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (36) Stop and place the safety eyes between R36 and R37 (count 6 rounds from the top, it will be easier) 7 sc apart:

 TIP: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the  TIP: eyes will tilt towards the outside. It’s a good trick

I did:

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 to straighten straighten them and indent them using using some skin color threads passing inside the head! I advise you to place them now, before adding the eyes. Cut two long threads and pass them as in the following picture, at 1 st distance from the hole where you’re going to place the eye (always on  the inner side!). side!).

Stuff below the indentation threads. t hreads. I first pull out the threads, and I stuff the lower part of the head, then I pull the threads back in (from the back of the doll),

 Then proceed proceed placing the eyes and making the eye embroidery (you can find a generic video  tutorial on how how to make make the embroidery embroidery in my Instagram profile).

 The thrtime threads eadsbeing, will be used to indent inden t the eyes.peach For the pull them out the t he back of   the doll. and I stuff the rest while closing up the t he head. T he he top of the head should be stuffed firmly: don’t neglect the last rounds.  The lower part of the head ends up being slightly lighter stuffed than the upper one, since it’s stu tufffed as jus ustt sho shown whe herreas, whil ile e cl clo osing sing th the e  top, I keep pushing stuffing in with my scissors unti un till the the su surf rfac ace e is well well stre stretc tche hed d (p (pro rope perr stuf stuffin fing g can increase the height of the forehead of your doll up to 1 cm!).

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Keep on working the head: R43: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30) R44: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24) Stuff while closing the head! It must be stuffed firmly, don’t neglect the last rounds. R45: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18) R46: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Skirt Hook: 2.0 Work loosely

R47: 6 dec (6) CY-PO leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a  tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the FLs of the last round, and pull. Make a knot and hide  the yarn inside inside the doll’s doll’s body. body.

Work YU Start with violet yarn, you’ll also need white and a bit of pink Start working in one of the FLs left at R17, on the back of the doll. Keep the body upside down and work clockwise

Last, pull ull th the e peach th thrreads to inde inden nt th the e eyes, fix  them with a knot behind the head and hide the  tails inside the head (there’s (there’s a video in my Instagram profile). Here’s the result so far!

R1: 1 stsc, 17 sc (18)

R2: (1 sc, inc) x 9 (27) R3-R6: 27 sc (27) R7: (8 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (30) R8-R11: 30FLO: sc (30) R12: Work 30 sc (30) R13: 30 sl (30)

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Using white yarn and 2.0 hook, make make a round parallel to R12, working in the BLs left. R12//:: stsc, (ch 3, sc in next BL) x 30 R12//

Arms Hook: 2.0 Work tight  Work YU Start with peach yarn, you’ll also need pink and antique pink R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5) R2-R3: 5 sc (5) Change to pink R4: 5 sc (5) R5: 5 sc BLO (5) R6-R9: 5 sc (5) Change to antique pink R10: 5 sc BLO (5) R11: 1 sc, 1 popst, 1 sl, CY-PO (5)  The popcorn stitch (popst) is made of 4 incomplete dc, then you YO and pass through 5 loops on your hook. Work it extremely loose and pop out the stitch once complete. You just created a poofy shoulder.  The arms don’t don’t need stuffing. stuffing. Make 2. Using white yarn, work in the FLs left: (ch 2, 1 sl) x 5

I’ve then added two simple lines in pink to make a decor on the dress:

 Then sew them or glue them to the body. body.

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Hair wig Hook: 2.0 Work loosely loos ely Work YO Work with mustard yarn Work in rows (don’t forget the tch!): Row1: chain 41 (40) Row2: 40 hdc (40)  The strand you’ve you’ve just made made should be be roughly as long as the doll. Adjust your gauge or make it  longer if needed!

 Then, turn around around the base and work 13 sc  towards  toward s the end of Row1.

From here, work: ch 41, working in this chain: 20 hdc, 20 sc

Row2-Row13: Work BLO: 40 hdc (40)  This piece should should be long enough to cover the back of the head from side to side (you’re gonna add one more single crochet row later on). If needed, add more rows, but pay attention to keep their number odd.

 Then work 40 sc on the side, till you find yourself close to the starting tail.

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Using a tapestry needle, pass through 13 small loops on the top (1 per row you worked).

Without cutting the yarn, work the following part  in rows (don’t forget the tch!): Row1: ch 21 (20) Row2: 20 sc (20) Row3: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (15) Row4: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (12) Row5: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (9) Row6: (1dec sc, (3), 1 dec) x 3make (6) a tch Row7: 3 don’t Row8: sk 1, 1 dec (1) CY-PO  This creates this half-cresce half-crescent nt shaped part: part:

Pass your needle all the way through, keeping a small loop at the beginning.

Work slip stitches until you find yourself at the beginning or Row1 of this piece.

 Then pass the tapestry tapestry needle inside this loop to close the wig and pull. Here’s the final result:

 This is how the wig wig looks like: like:

Glue it or sew it on top of the head.

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Congratulations, your Rapunzel is ready! Don’t forget to send me a picture and tag me /  give me credits / use my hashtag when posting online! All info is in the license! Look at the differences with my previous version… and remember it’s worth it to keep practicing!

Pan

Hook: 2.0 Work tight  Work YU Start with grey yarn R1: 6 sc in MR (6) R2: 6 inc (12) R3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) R4: 18 sc BLO (24) R5: ch 11, 10 sc from second loop from hook of   the ch you’ve just made, sl in next sc of R4, FO FO

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