Quality Manual

XYZ Company

XYZ is committed to achieve customer satisfaction by manufacturing the highest quality of Garments products for export. XYZ is also committed to provide adequate resources and trained manpower for implementing the procedures of ISO 90012000 Quality Management System (QMS). The Top Management of XYZ is committed to continuous improvement of its QMS processes.

(MD. ………………..) Date: .................. Managing Director

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‡KvqvwjwU cwjwm QUALITY MANUAL INTRODUCTION With the increased demand of Bangladesh garments in the whole world market out side the country, number of garments factories is growing rapidly but Q.A. management system cannot be developed in the same speed due to the lack of Q.A. management system. It is the quality of our product and service along with the efficiency of the work force, which is the foremost objective of XYZ aims to produce products and service of the high standard, which meets all the specifications, including environmental concern and safety XYZ’s commitment to its valued customer always been :

• Maintaining the highest achievable quality possible. • The most competitive pricing in the world market. • Shortest lead-time with on time delivery. • The best environment for ethical standard in accordance with world compliance standards.

OBJECTIVE Objectives of this policies are : • To understand customer’s perspective of quality. • To provide better quality of products and service. • To provide good and safe working environment to the workers, which includes human value, respect, justice, cleanliness, discipline and equality between workers and others. • To implement quality control system with the aim to achieve zero defect level through

efficient

management,

research,

improvement.

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development

and

continuous

COST AND QUALITY QUALITY: Quality is defined as “Totality of characteristics of an entity (product, service etc.) that bears on its ability to satisfy stated and implied needs.” QUALITY CONTROL: Is an effective system for interchanging the quality maintenance and quality improvement efforts of various groups in an organization so as to enable production at the most economical levels which allow full satisfaction for the consumers. TOTAL QUALITY MANGEMENT (T.Q.M.): Is described as an all- inclusive fully integrated productivity technique. It helps to create new markets, expand existing markets and recapture lost markets by utilizing the optimum capability of man, machine, material, method and produces high and uniform quality of products with reduced costs. Total quality control starts from market i.e. from purchasing material and machine and ends in the market i.e. selling the finished products in the market including after-sale service. It includes market analysis, product development, production planning, statistical quality control, preventive maintenance, wastage control, inventory control, cost reduction and after sales service et. The ultimate goal of T.Q.M. is to increases the quality/cost ration and continuous improvement. It may be done by increasing the quality with same cost, decreasing the cost with same quality and increasing quality and decreasing coast at the same time. The above graph shown that there is an optimum quality of a product. Above this optimum, the increased the cost, there will be no increase of quality. But below the optimum, lower the quality lesser the cost. The basic quality problem is to set correct balance between the cost and quality i.e. to find out a suitable quality/cost ration for the product which will satisfy the consumer both for cost and quality.

MANAGEMETN RESPONSIBILITY Section : 1

PURPOSE The organization’s quality policy is documented and communicated to each person in the organization. The organizational structure, responsibilities and authorities have been described to ensure every key personnel know his job and the same could be cross checked by his higher management. To check the effectiveness of the quality system, it has been suggested to conduct a meeting after every fortnight with the responsible officers taking care of quality system in their assigned position.

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SCOPE This section covers the organizational structure and responsibilities of all personnel who supervises, perform and verify works at different stages for the improvement and maintenance of quality. ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE AND RESPONSIBILITIES The following positions held with in XYZ. plays a managerial role in the maintenance of product quality and the quality control system through chain of command. Quality management system illustrated in the flow diagram Annexure: 1.01 JOB DESCRIPTION OF RESPONSIBLES PERSONS FOR QUALITY IN SKYLINE GROUP 1.

MANAGING DIRECTOR: will ensure the absolute adherence to the quality control system by exercising his authority through his channel of command.

2.

G.M.Q.A CENTRAL: Number one for whole group. a) Preparing quality manuals for the group b) Taking approval from the MANAGING DIRECTOR for implementation of the system stated in the manual. c) Implementation of statistical quality control system in the factories here it is applicable. d) Training of QC personals for continuous improvement to achieve zero defect level. e) Training of QC personals on statistical quality control system and graphical method for achieving target quality level desired by the buyer. f) Collections of buyers quality guide lines from buyers website or manual and convey it to Manager QA central, Manager QA factory and Monitoring for proper implementation to achieve buyers quality level. g) Maintain liaison with buyers QA team for technical problems for which their help is needed. h) Monitoring the job of Manager QA central, Manager QA factory to evaluate their performance and report it to concern authority. i) To help authority to recruit right person for right job of QA department. j) To inform to concern directors and chairman of the group the over all quality position of the factories by MIS. k) Inform the concern director if any factory is unable to perform up to the desired level of quality by corrective action request or verbally. l) Study quality related books, journals, manuals and research for continuous improvement.

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3.

MANAGER QA CENTRAL: Number one for the whole group. a)

b) c) d)

e)

f)

g)

h)

i)

4.

Collection of spec sheet, shade band card, trims card, fabric test report and approval sample from the concern merchandiser and compare production sample with the Approval samples as well as technical sheet. Not to allow any deviation from the approval sample if there is no written confirmation form the buyer. Collection of fabric inspection report to judge whether fabric is acceptable for production on the ground of shade, defect and other factors. In line inspection to see whether the garments quality is as per buyers requirement or not. Incase of any deviation, take corrective and preventive action. Briefly describe the buyer requirement and quality control procedure to Manager QA factory for proper monitoring to produce garments as per requirement of buyer. Report to Manager Quality, all his findings and inspection report for taking corrective actions and monitoring. Collecting of buyer’s quality guideline documents, going through these and explain these to manager Q.A factory, and monitoring the same for correct implementation. Conduct pre-shipment inspection before buyer’s inspection to be confirmed about the lots defect level, whether it is as per buyers desired level or not. It not, sends the lot for recheck for correction (alter) and re-inspect the same lot after correction. Allotment of his QC team to all our mother and sub contract factories (if any). Monitoring the quality of production in all our factories and subcontract factories as well.

MANAGER Q. A : Number one for each factory. a)

b) c) d)

e) f) g)

Over All Administration of factories QA dep’t and monitoring the work of Sewing Q.C, Finishing QC, Line QC, QI Cutting and all inspectors as well as evaluation of their performance. Conduct training and make all his sub ordinates accountable to him for their performance to achieve the target of quality level. Reporting day-to-day quality status and trend to factory GM/PM. Collection of approval sample, shade band card, trim card, spec sheet and go through these to compare first of production with the approval sample before going for bulk production. In case of any change in the style or design by the buyer he will communicate the floor people for the confirmation of change. Send samples of fabric, garments, and accessories to the concern merchandiser for lab test, if it is required. Conduct day final inspection on the available quantity of ferments at the end of day in finishing as per US-MIL-STD-105E. If the lost is not accepted go for 5

h)

i) 5.

correction. Conduct pre shipment inspection after completion of the lot and take necessary corrective measures before buyer’s final inspection. Details study of test cutting, sample, wash and non wash and consult with Manager QA Central, GM/PM of the factory if there is any discrepancy to find out appropriate solution. Keep close co-ordination with Manager and GM QA, central for continuous improvement.

QC MIS & MONITORING: Number one for each factory (Controlled by GM QA, CENTRAL) a) Monitoring the job of MIS Asst./Inspector, and monthly MIS report to GMQA. b) Process capability study of every line by calculating C.V of lines defect percentage. c) Study of Technical sheet and approved sample of buyer. Compare first of production sample with approved sample, with respect of technical sheet approved trim card and shade. d) Monitoring in-process 7 pcs inspection, counter check table inspection. e) Checking of line wise Monthly operator’s performance and Monthly table defect analysis. f) Monthly defect analysis, C.V of defects line wise and factory wise g) Moving average line and factory wise to observe the trend of defect. h) Defect analysis after 100% process inspection in finishing. i) Monitoring accessories, fabric and cutting inspection.

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SUPERVISOR QC: Number one for each factory. a) Carry out instruction receive from manager QA factory. b) Monitor the job of line QC’s in process 7pcs inspection, table inspectors and maintain liaison with cutting quality inspectors. c) Go through buyer’s approval sample, shade band card, trim card, spec sheet and supervise making garments as per style and measurement. d) Implementations of design change approved by buyer and instructed by Manager QA Factory. e) Management, administration, training, motivation of his stuff for of continuous improvement. f) Conduct daily inline inspection and fit audit and report to the manager QA.

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TWO HOURS Q.I (FINISHING): Number one in each unit. a) Two hours inspection, visual and fit audit on the basis of US-MIL-STD105E on buyers desired AQL. If lot is not passed, correction of defects and re inspection on same method. b) Moni t or t he j ob of al l f i ni s hi ng i ns pec t ors and repo rt to Manag er Q A Factory,

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c)

d)

Keep close co-ordination with Sewing for rectifying defects in Finishing and make defect analysis in Finishing to take corrective and preventive action in sewing. Conduct training of all finishing QC Inspectors for continuous improvements.

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Sr. Q.I CUTTING: Number one in each Factory. a) He is responsible to Manager QA Factory. b) Monitor accessories inspection, fabric inspection, and cutting inspection. c) Submit all inspection report to Manager QA Factory.. d) Collection of trim card and shade band card from Manager QA to compare the lot during inspection. e) Conduct cut panel inspection and accessories inspection as per sampling inspection plan. f) Monitor spreading quality control and cutting quality control.

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SR. Q.I SEWING: Two/Three for each line (Depending on no. of machines in line) a) Carry out instructions of Manager QA Factory. b) Conduct process capability study of the Line by calculating C.V (Co0Efficient of variation) of hourly defect percentage. c) Monitor quality performance of operators for continuous improvement and incentives to operators for their performance. d) Supervise the cutting bundles numbering, size and serial for proper control in the sewing. e) Review the production sample according to approval sample and shade, f) C he c k m ac hi n e c l ea nl i n es s , n ee dl e c o nd i t i o n a nd s i z e , pr op e r t hr ea d count and shade. g) Conduct process inspection having idea from table inspection report and defect analysis, about the source of high ranking of defects. h) Observe the trend of defects from the moving average of defects in the table inspection and take special care in those particular processes in the line.

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ACCESSORIES INSPECTOR: Number one in each factory. a) Sampling of accessories as per US-MIL-STD-105E Inspection Level II AQL 2.5 or specified by buyer. b) Inspection of accessories as per approved trim card by the buyer c) d)

Normal

Segregation of non conforming accessories and keep it separately with non conforming tags. Preparing inspection report and submit it to Manager QA, factory.

11. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTOR : Number one in each factory. a) b) c)

Random selection of rolls as per US-MIL-STD-105E 6 D-1 05E to 10% of the lot. Shade grouping of all rolls, compare shades with approved shade. Side center side, side-to-side, end-to-end and running shade check of individual rolls. ` 7

d) e f)

Preparing shade grouping report and submit it to Manager QA. Fabric inspection by 4-point system and making fabric inspection report Segregation of non-conforming rolls with red tag and keep ii) a safe place.

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CUTTING QUALITY INSPECTOR: Number one for each unit. a) Spreading checking on 10 points b) Block and bundle check. c) Daily summary of cutting and spreading quality control report to manager A factory. a) Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker to mark all defects where applicable,

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TARLE QI, OUTPUT : Number two/three for each line (inside and out side) 100 Inspection of outside and inside of garments. a) Segregation of non-conforming garments and returns to line QC for taking corrective and preventive action. b) Re inspection of non-conforming garments after correction. b) Fill up the line wise hourly inspection format, c) Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker to mark all defects where applicable.

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FINISHING QI (individual process) a) b) c) d)

15.

FINISHING QI (Measurement ) a)

Measurements of 100% garments on specified points shown by QA Manager.

b)

Segregation of non-conforming goods and hand over to QC Finishing for necessary correction. Re-measurement of non-conforming goods after correction. Fill up the measurement report and submit it to QC Finishing. Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker to mark all defects where applicable.

C) d) d)

6.

100% inspection of individual process in side and out side. Segregate non-conforming garments in separate box and hand over to Finishing QC for correction. Re inspection of non-conforming garments after correction. Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker or mark all defects where applicable.

FINISHING INSPECTOR (Final) 100% inspections of garments get up (Overall appearance) a) Segregation of non-conforming goods to QC Finishing for correction. b Re- inspection of non conforming goods after correction. C Fill up the hourly inspection report d) Affix allotted QA numbered arrow sticker to mark all defects where applicable. 8

QUALITY SYSTEM Section 2

PURPOSE To document and maintain a quality system as a means to ensure that product ji all factories of SKYLINE GROUP conforms to specified requirement. SCOPE The quality system operated by XYZ Ltd. aims to ensure compliance to specified requirements and is defined and driven by Quality Manual, departmental procedures and work instructions, those are defined in this section. QUALITY SYSTEM PROCEDURES The Quality procedure of each factory will be reviewed by the concerned persons of Management of that factory. Describing the quality systems of all factories of XYZ, this manual includes a brief description of the functions and mode of operation of the factories management personnel with respect to quality. QUALITY PLANNING Documented quality planning is stated by this manual, accompanying procedure, work instructions and quality, all of which comprise theXYZ Quality System. Thus, quality planning is, documented and implemented by all Executives and Managers playing a role in the maintenance of product quality and the quality management system. To achieve the goal of zero defect level following steps has been taken". For massive awareness building regular discussion and meeting are conducted with the concern people. Regular training session is being conducted on Statistical Quality Control System Introduce it as a tool to achieve the goal. Introduce incentives for inspectors and operators for the best performing line. Introduce operators' quality performance chart to find out source and type of defect for taking preventive and corrective measures. Reorganize process/7pcs inspectors job allocation, work procedure to make them more accountable for effective control on process inspection with the help I operators quality performance chart.

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Weekly defect analysis of process inspection, table inspection and final inspection to find out the irregularities of inspection if any and. to take corrective measures. Monthly defect analysis and moving average, line and factory wise, to monitor improvement and trend of defect. For graphical representation of hourly defect percentage in control chart to set upper control limit at 1.0%, central line is 0.65% and lower control limit at 0.0% to brine down defect level towards zero by continuous improvement

Quality planning also includes the following Assignment of responsibility for conducting checks. Stages at which checks are to be carried out. Methods to be followed in conducting the checks. Frequency of the checks. Criteria for acceptance/rejections. Related documents to be checked. Documents to maintain as evidence of the checks. Corrective & preventive action to be taken subsequent to the check.

RECEVING INSPECTION Section 3 PURPOSE To establish and maintain documented procedures for receiving inspection in order to verify that the specified requirements for the product are met. SCOPE This section applies to the product being produced in the garment factories of XYZ ltd. RECEIVING INSPECTION ACCESSORIES Before receiving accessories all necessary tests and inspection is conducted lot wise by the accessories inspector of the factory under the guidance of QA Manager of Factory as per US-MIL-STD-105E at buyers desired AQL. If result found acceptable, then the lot is accepted otherwise lot is rejected and kept in marked area with a red tag for. the safety. So that non-conforming goods are not used in process. Accessories inspection report is illustrated in Annexure: 3.01 FABRIC INSPECTION Fabric roll is selected on the basis of random sampling, acceptance or rejection criteria are decided at prescribed label on 4-Point system. 10% of rolls -are inspected in 10

this stage by Fabric Inspector. Incase of rejection of lot on 10% of rolls, rest of the rolls of the lot is inspected thoroughly. Reject rolls are kept separately with red lags illustrated in Annexure : 3.04 Inspection records are kept in inspection format, illustrated in Annexure:3.02 Summary of the fabric inspection is recorded in the summary sheet, for management information, illustrated in Annexure: 3.03 Conforming goods are kept separately with Green Sticker and kept in stack named READY FOR C.UTTING, All rejected goods are treated as " NON CONFORMING GOODS" and marked with red sticker, illustrated in Annexure: 3.04 Checking of s-lade and shade grouping is illustrated in Annexure 3.05

FABRIC INSPECTION PROCEDURE - 4 POINT SYSTEM OBJECTIVE The aim of fabric inspection is to check the quality, quantity and packing by visual, measurement a color check confirming with the specification and general appearance of the approval sample given by buyer. INSPECTION PROCEDURE: • Receive approved color and quality swatches. • Check lot size and label against the submitted packing list. • Randomly draw 10% of the lot. • Delivery of less than 1000 yds – 100% inspection • Delivery of 1000 yds to 10000 yds to inspect at least* 1000 yds. • Shipment of more than 10000 yds inspects 10% of the lot. PENALTY POINT EVALUATION: Fabric to of graded will be examined from a distance of approximately three feet while runner-Up cover the perch of a fabric inspection machine. The inspector will run the fabric at a speed compatible with his ability to distinguish. POINT CALCULATION INDIVIDUAL ROLL Penalty points X 36X 100 Total yrds Inspected x Width of cloth in inch 11

= Points per 100 Sq. Yard AVERAGE POINTS PER SHIPMENT Total Points per 100 Sq. yd of all rolls Inspected Total number of rolls Inspected = Average points per 100 Sq. yard PENALTY POINTS IN FOUR POINT SYSTEM The position of the defect in the fabric in either length or width ROLLS SELECTION PROCEDURES • These rolls shall be selected for inspection on a totally random basis. • The knit dyeing unit is required to present the inspector with a shipment packing list

when eighty (80%) percent of the rolls are packed from which the rolls to be inspected will be chosen. • Once the inspector has selected the rolls for inspection, no adjustment may be made

to the number of rolls to be inspected or to the rolls selected for inspection. • At no time during the inspection may any yardage be removed from any roll other than

for recording and measuring shade tolerances. • All rolls inspected will be graded and assigned penalty points.

ACCEPTABLE PENALTY POINTS: If no specifies standard provided for knit fabric, the average point value per shipment not exceeds 40 points per 100 linear yards. Individual rolls exceeding 40 points shall be rejected. DEFECTS CONDITIONS •No more than 4 points will be penalized within one yd. •Severe defects are assigned max 4 points for each yd. •Any hole and any running defect will be penalized 4 points •Whole roll having running defect or continuous defects in more than 10 yds will be

considered reject.

SPLICE ALLOWANCE • It will not be allowed more than one splice. 12

• No part of a spliced roll can be shorter than 40 yds except specified by customer.

ROLL LENGTH • Roll found to deviate more than 2% from the roll ticket yds shall be rejected. • The entire shipment shall be rejected if the total measured yds in the sample t audi deviates 1 % or more from the ticket yds. HAND FEEL The hand feel will be checked between roll with a reference sample. If there is a noticeable difference, the roll will be classified as second quality. SHADE HATCHING Roll to roll with head to end, side to side, side center side will be checked during visual quality inspection for preliminary. Final checking will be taken in the light box against gray scale rating. Under light source D-65. COLOR SHADING 1) Side to Side 2) Side center Side 3) End to End 4) Lot to Lot 1) Against approval sample

RATING 4 – 5 or 5 (Accepted) 4 – 5 or 5 (Accepted) 4 – 5 or 5 (Accepted) 4 or 4 – 5 or 5 (Accepted) 4 or 4 – 5 or 5 (Accepted)

ACCEPTABLE POINT COUNT LEVEL Various types of textiles are divided into the following five groups. Individual rolls exceeding the specified point count level shall be graded as second quality. A shipment shall fail the inspection if the shipment penalty count points exceed the specified point count level REJECTION RATE: If total rejected inspection yardage is over 10% of total inspected yardage, then overall result is concluded as "Rejected"

RUNNING DEFECTS: •

Any defect found to repeat and/or run in a continuous manner will constitute a running defect. All running defects must be assigned four points to every yard in the roil when the running defect occurs. 13

•

Any roll having a running or repeating defect through more than three continuous yards shall be rejected regardless of point occurs.

FULL WIDTH DEFECTS: • No roll that contains more than four full width defects per one hundred linear yards

shall be accepted as first quality.

• Any roll found to contain defects, in any increment of one hundred yards, with and

average of more than one major defect per ten linear yards will be rejected.

• No roll shall be accepted that contains a major defect in the first or last three yards of

the rolls. A major defect is considered to be any three or four point defect

• No roll shall be accepted as first quality that exhibits a noticeable of loose or tightness

along either or both selvedges or ripples, puckers, folds or creases in the body of the fabric that would prevent the fabric form lying flat when being spread in a conventional manner.

FABRIC WIDTH: • Fabric width will be checked a minimum of three times during the inspection of a roll,

beginning, middle and end. The roll width will be checked more often if the fabric is close to the specified minimum width of if the fabric width is uneven. • Rolls `paving a measurement of less than the specified width will not be accepted. • For knit fabric, rolls having a measurement of 1" wider than the specified diameter will not be accepted. But for the stretched woven fabric, it can be accepted 2" wider than the specified purchased width. • For knit fabric, rolls having a measurement of 2" wider than the specified purchased width will be accepted. But for the Lycra knitted fabric, it can be accepted 3" wider than the specified width.

PROCESS INSPECTION Section 4 PURPOSE: To establish and maintain documented procedures for process inspection in order to., verify that the specified requirements for the product are met. SCOPE: This section applies to the product being produced in the factories of XYZ.

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PROCESS INSPECTION Process inspection is conducted on following sages. • • • • • •

Spreading Inspection Cutting Inspection. Sewing Inspection. Table Inspection. Two hour Inspections

SPREADING INSPECTION Following ten points must be taken care of by the cutting quality inspector at the time of spreading.

• • • • • • • • • •

Table marking Ends Leaning Tension Narrow goods Remnants Counts Ply height Marker Placing Fabric Flaws

Inspector should check following at the time of fabric spreading illustrated in

(Annexure: 4.01).

CUTTING INSPECTION Cutting inspection should be on the basis on random sampling on desired AQL. If the lot is passed on sampling inspection then it is send for sewing operation, if not passed the whole lot is re-inspected and rejected parts are replaced by good parts. In cutting inspection there are two types of check BLOCK CHECK & BUNDLE CHECK. Following points are inspected in block check such as Size, Parts, Pattern check, Mis cut, Ragged cutting, Notches, Matching plies. Following points are checked in the bundle check such as Size, Parts, Total quantity, Inspect quality, Defect quality. Cutting check is illustrated in (Annexure: 4.02). However it is recommended to check 100% cutting parts under the light box table.

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SEWING INSPECTION: a) b) c)

The SR. Line Q.I should audit completed finished bundles He must select 7 pcs at random from the bundle. If the inspector finds defective unit, he will take following steps on operators duality Performance Chart (Annexure: 4.03) i) He will mark red in the room against date of inspection with defect code and frequency as a symbol for warning and recheck. He will hand over remaining units of the bundle to supervisor for check and taking corrective action. i) He will inspect next three bundles as follow up audit of the same operator and mark yellow in three rooms if no defective units are found in next three bundles. ii) He will mark green in the room against date if no defective unit is found in the bundle. d) The inspector will make operators monthly analysis to compare it with tables monthly defect analysis to find out whether there is any lacking in the sewing inspection procedure. Illustrated in the (Annexure: 4.04) e) QC Supervisor Sewing will monitor 7 pcs inspection, whether it is being done properly or not.

TABLE INSPECTION Table inspection is conducted by two/three/four inspectors (depends on hourly output ) to inspect inside and out side of the garments. They will record hourly inspected garments, defect found, defect percentage; also calculate average defect percentage, quality index of the day and CV of defects. This will help to represent the defects graphically with the help of MIS Inspector and is illustrated in (Annexure: 4.05). Monthly table defect analysis report illustrated in (Annexure 4.06) is prepared and to compare it with operators monthly defect analysis. TWO HOURLY INSPECTIONS i) ii) iii)

iv) v) vi)

It is the responsibility of finishing unit TWO HOUR Q.I. It is conducted every after two hour. Both visual and fit audit is conducted on available garments received . pp two hours on US-MIL-STD-105E at desired AQL illustrated in Acceptance Sampling chapter. If lot is acceptable than passed for poly packing. If not return back for*correction, After correction it is re inspected in the same way.

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FINAL INSPECTION Section 5 PURPOSE: To establish and maintain documented procedures for final inspection in order to verify that the specified requirements for the product are met. SCOPE: This section applies to the product being produced in the XYZ Ltd. Factory facilities. ACTIVITIES: Final inspection is the inspection which is conducted before shipment or buyers inspection. It is conducted in two stages. i) ii)

Day Final. Lot Final.

DAY FINAL: Day final inspection is the responsibility of factory QA Manager. He conducts this inspection daily on available garments which has passed by TWO HOURLY inspection and is conducted on the basis of US-MIL-STD-105E on desired AQL Illustrated in Acceptance Sampling chapter. If it is passed, garments are ready for Central Q C Inspection or Buyers 0 C inspection. LOT FINAL: Lot final is conducted by Central Q A Manager when the lot is passed by Factory Q.A Manager before shipment or in case any buyer gives the authority to the factory to conduct final inspection before shipment. It is also conducted when buyers inspection is conducted before shipment. It is conducted as per US-MIL-STD-105E on desired AQL. If lot is passes, they are ready for shipment and placed before buyer's representative for final inspection before the shipment. Day final and lot final inspection procedures are illustrated in Garments Inspection Procedure Chapter,

GARMENTS INSPECTION PROCEDURE STEP-I Inspector should collect the following before going for the inspection. a.

Approved sample from the proper authority.

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b. C. d.

First of production (FOP) garments sample as per size and color from the concern person or authority. Approved color swatches, shade band card, trim card from the concern person or authority. Garments and Fabrics test report from the factory or agent.

STEP-II a.

Inspector should take the following items with him. • • •

Inspection report form Spec sheet. Calibrated flexible fiber measurement tape.

STEP-III a. b. C. d.

e. f. d. e.

f. g.

k. I. M. n.

Collect packing list from the factory and check carton against the packing list. Compare FOP sample with the approval sample and find out if there is any deviation. Check the shipping mark with the work sheet. Select the carton for inspection by square root of .the total carton and select carton number with the help of random number table illustrated in Sampling Technique chapter. Put signature on both the side of carton opening. Bring the carton in the inspection room which should be sufficiently lighted, tidy and clean. Unseal the carton and check assortment, poly packing, hang tag, labels, color tone etc. Select the garments for fit audit size and color wise with respect to prescribed. AQL of fit audit as per US-MIL-STD-105E illustrated in Acceptance Sample chapter. Conduct fit audit and identify total major and minor defects. The defects will be called major if it exceeds tolerance and touch another size in case of measurement. The defect will be called minor if it exceeds tolerance but does not touch another size in case of measurement. Major and minor defects criteria for Visual audit have been illustrated below. If the total points major and minor exceeds points as per prescribes AQL, lot will be rejected for fit audit. Select garments sample size for workmanship with the help of US-MIL-STD105E, illustrated in Acceptance Sampling chapter. I Inspect garments pcs by pcs. ii. Put arrow sticker on the defect position. 18

iii. IV.

Classify defects as major and minor and score accordingly. if the total points, each major=10 and minor=0.5 exceed the prescribed points as per desired AQL reject the lot. v. Complete data sheet of both visual and fit, take signature from the factory representative on the sheet. vi. Replace defective garments in the carton by good-garments. vii Collect some defective garments for reference hand over these to the Person concern for corrective and preventive action. Different type of fabric defects for WOVEN, KNIT and DYEING or FINISHING are explained as Annexure: 5.00

DE FECT CLASSIFICATION LIST (MAJOR) FABRIC DEFECTS: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

Holes (yarns cut), broken ends, continuous missing yarn. Soil, oil spot, contrast visible at arms length / A-zone, adversely affecting appearance. Misweaves, mispicks (woven). Slubs (Linen & Silk not included) distinguishable when viewed at arras length A-zone. Color bleeding (A-zone) color combination not as specified. Misprint, dye spot. Bow in knit'/ to 1/2inch. (A-zone). Coating defect less than % inch. round (All zones). Shaded parts (conspicuous mismatched). Hand feel different from approved fabric swatch. Permanent crease mark. Streaks.

COMPONENTS AND TRIMS: BUTTONS & BUTTON HOLES 1. 1. 2. 3. 4. 1.

Buttons sewing thread color not as specified. Missing button or button hole. Broken, damaged, defective or inverted buttons. Buttons do not conform to specification. Britton insecurely sewn. Improper button or button hole.

INTERFACING / LINING / PADS 1.

Fusible interfacing must be compatible to garment without bubble or pucker. 19

1. 2. 3.

. In a lined garment, the liner must not extend below hem of the shell. Interlining apparent from out side of garments. Missing one or both pads.

ZIPPERS 1. 2, 3. 4. 5. 6.

9. 10. 11.

Insecure bottom or top stops. Incorrect color or tape (shade) of zipper. Faulty slider on zipper. Any missing or damaged teeth. Does not function without special effort. Zipper size and length should be appropriate to garment end use or as specified not more than + 1/2inch. from spec. Any cut in the zipper tape. Tape stitched too loose or tight resulting in excessive bulge on tape or placket when closed. Any malfunction. Missing top or bottom stopper. Wavy zippers.

HOOK AND YES 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Omitted or sewn in wrong places. Hook and eyes misaligned when fastened causing bulge or twist at the point of closure. All metal parts (snap, hook and eyes, rivets etc) must be rust proof, washable and dry cleanable. Improper type. Defective,

BELT AND BELT LOOPS 1. 2. 3.

Belt Loop not fully secure. Incorrect number of belt loops on garments as specified. Missing belt loop.

POCKET A ND F LA P 1. 2. 3. 4.

Missing or miss located bar tack. Wrong placement, Insecure opening. Pocket zippers and stress points no' as specified / bar tacked.

NECK LABEL/CARE LABEL 1. Incorrect fiber content, country of origin, RN number etc. 2. Maintenance instructions do not meet all federal requirements. 3. Not caught completely or not sewn securely. 4. Missing/incorrect / illegible. 5. Incorrectly attached. 20

COMPRESSION ATTACHMENT OF HARDWARE 1. Clasp/snap, rivet which is defective, damaged incorrectly placed or attached. 2. Eyelet missing or misplaced. 3. Velcro placement closure not within 50% of total area mates. 4. Draw cord not free to move as designed. 5. Length of drawstring not as specified, 6. Ends of drawstrings not secured (missing stopper). EMBROIDERY (ZONE — A) APPEARANCE 1. 2. 3. 4. 1. 5. 2. 3.

Use of unauthorized embroidery, Embroidery threads color not as specified. Pattern/placement not as specified. Insecure beading sewing. Conspicuous incomplete embroidery. Incomplete logo. Dirty or unlearned embroidery. Untrimmed, hanging thread.

PRINTING DEFECTS: 1.

Wrong color, missing color.

2.

Miss registered obvious from 6 inch.

STITCHING 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16.

SPI in excess of more than 3 or less than 2 than the specified. Ends of stitching (back tacked at least'/. inch/2 or 3 stitches). Open seams more than 1/4 inch. On outside or'/2 inch on inside. Any raw edges more than Y4 inch on out side. Run off stitch (conspicuous) Needle holes. Seams closure uneven, off more than 1/8 inch. Seam twisted, puckered or pleated (conspicuous). Poor mending or repairing (conspicuous). Gathered/ bunched stitching. Skipped stitch (401), one skipped stitch in a row permitted; no more than 2 occurrences per seam (lock stitch - 301). Button hole (skipped stitch, cut not securely caught in fabric, incomplete stitch, uncut not aligned). Button not securely sewn, not cross stitched when specified. Bar tacks not as specified length, placement, width, stitch count or completely missing. Blind stitch (103,503) excessive pick through 3/32 inch or more, or tight tension causing distortion or puckering. Beaded stitching (loose top of bobbin thread). 21

17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26.

Button or button hole not aligned, causing noticeable bulge. Conspicuous variation in length of collar points. Conspicuous high/low pockets (A-Zone). F -ant legs uneven off more than 1/4 inch on any fabric. Part ^,f garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching (unauthorized stitches). Seams and stitching not as specified type. Tight/Loose tension. 24, Top stitching not uniform greater than -3/4 inch affecting appearance. Permanent needle hole (needle cut, burrs). Seam allowance (All zones) - join seam < 1 /2 inch. / double needle setting < inch. Zipper setting < 1/4 inch. FINISHING AND PACKAGING 1. Not pressed / folded / hang / assorted as specified. 2. Over pressing or under pressing/poor pressing defects including-shine, color change, scorching or any other conspicuous "Hard" pressing defect. 1. Labs, tickets, tags, logo, hanger size clip missing/incorrect, illegible or not specified. 2. Item not dry when packed. 1. Adhesive labels or adhesive residue visible from 3 inch. (?2 inch in any view). 2. Searn should be pressed open. 3. Burn or scorch mark. 4. Shine marks on the surface of the garment. 5. Sweaters pressed out of size. PACKAGING 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Merchandise folded or packed incorrectly, resulting in poor appearance. SKU information on box not same as item in the box. Incorrect poly bag, box dimension. Size sticker, price tag, hanger, box labeling UPC code etc incorrectly placed, missing or not as specified. Printed information incorrect or missing. 6. Poor or improper selling. 7. Not packed or assorted as specified. 8. Wrong carton marking (shipping mark).

BUCKLES AND SUSPENDER LOOP 1. Broken, rough or sharp edges. 2. Coating omitted or thickness or coating / plating less than specified. 3. Wrong color or metal type. 4. incorrect size or type. 1. 2. 3.

Oxidized or corroded. Misplaced, Not attached as specified. 22

DEFECT CLASSIFICATION LIST (MINOR) FABRIC: 1. Broken yarn (one yarn) – zone B/C. 2. Mispick (low contrast) – zone C. 3. Barre (low contrast) – zone B. 4. Needle hole (which holes do not run / enlarge). 5. G a r m e n t s not within specified shade range or shade band. 6. Printing defects: i) Incomplete coverage of color. ii) Design and pattern direction not as specified. 7. Mismatched stripe/ plaid: i) On side seam or seat seam when requested in construction specification Over Y4 inch. ii) 1i) On placket or pant fly – Over 1/16 inch. iii) On center front panels or placket – Over '/8 inch. iv) On pocket or flaps – Over 1/8 inch. v) Skewed, bowed or biased fabric, solid or stripe over'/2 inch. side to side. vi) Shaded parts / thread / or visible components. COMPONENTS AND TRIM: 1. Any component not of specified color, dimension, or appearance, 2. Hardware trim misaligned. 3. 3.

3.

Incorrect position of snaps in excess of 1/8 inch's-,an the specified. Untied cord. Velcro, placement (closure) not within 75% of total area mates.

INTERLINING AND PADS: 1. 2. 3.

Type of interlining or pad not as specified. Misplaced fused interlining or pad location. 0 Insecurely attached pad.

LABEL. 1 2.

Label must be positioned at specified location + Y4 inch and fully visible. Crooked label.

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THREADS: 1. Outside, Uncut thread over '/4 inch. 2. Inside Uncut thread over 1/2 inch seen hanging below a cuff or hem or visible as Presented. STITCHING: 1. 2. 1. 2.

Topstitching — Single or double needle not overlapped, stitch on stitch at start and finish. Poorly objectionably mended (C-zone). Gathering or bunched stitching (B & C zone). 1/13, Sewn in pleat over Y4inch. (C zone).

CONSTRUCTION: (FRONT, BACK AND ASSEMBLY DEFECTS) 1. 2. 3.

4.

Knitted only – Insecure shoulder tape. Fronts are uneven at the bottom in excess of 1/4 inch. Uncle- facing shows on the top side of the garment. Component to component or joining seams (rib cuff seam to sleeve seam, crotch to seat, waistband to side seam and underarm seams) -seam - alignment worse than % Inch.

5.

Darts uneven in length in excess of % inch.

6.

Darts poorly shaped with large bubbles at the end.

7.

Darts not properly located.

8.

Waistband irregular or not uniform in width in excess of 1/4 inch.

9.

Right versus left side seam / in seam difference not exceeds 1/4 - 1/2 inch.

10.

Neck rib and short sleeve cuff rib – width variance greater than + 3/,s inch.

11.

Long sleeve cuff rib, bottom rib and turtleneck rib – width variation greater than + X inch.

12.

Fly that gaps or doesn't lay flat, exposed zipper tape when fly is closed.

SLEEVE AND ARMHOLE DEFECTS 1. 2.

Sleeve head stay stitch showing on outside. Underarm seam not aligned with side seam in excess of X inch.

3.

Cuffs uneven in size and shape.

4.

Cuff facing to sleeve seam misaligned in excess of Y4 inch.

5. 6.

Sleeve to side seam misaligned in excess of Y4 inch. Right versus left sleeve lengths difference over 1/2 inch. COLLAR / COLLAR SETTING, LAPEL AND CUFF DEFECTS 1.

Excessive fullness, puckers or twisting of top collar. 24

2.

Collar points distinctively ill-shaped or not uniform.

CONSTRUCTION 1.

Corded, piped or other insert trim conspicuously uneven, loose or tight.

2.

Under collar showing outside of top collar, topstitch seams not balanced top to bottom

(rolled). 3.

Collar noticeably off center when attached to garment.

4.

Center back neck seam not covered by collar.

5.

Cuff facing uneven, twisted or poorly sewn.

POCKET DEFECTS

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

7.

Raw edge of pocket not square. Corresponding pockets horizontally uneven or misaligned in excess of 1/4 inch. Flap and pocket pattern mismatched. Weight and color of pocketing material not according to specification. Dog ears at pocket corners, more than '/8 inch. above top of pocket. Non-uniform shaped or biased pockets more than 1/4 inch, side to side or top to bottom, noticeable at arms length. Pocket width bigger than flap in excess o f 1/8 inc

BELT LOOP DEFECTS 1. 1.

1. 1. 2.

Belt locos incorrectly placed in excess of '14 inch. Color c- shade of loop not as specified. Thread color must be matching unless otherwise specified. Conspicuously crooked belt loop. Width of belt loop more than % inch. too wide too narrow.

HEM DEFECTS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Excessively puckered or twisted hem. Open hem greater than 1/4 inch. Hem sleeve uneven, twisted or poorly sewn. High/lpN bottom hem difference greater than Y4 inch. side to side, or back to front. Lining less than 1/2 inch. below top edge of the shell hem turn back.

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BUTTON/BUTTONHOLE DEFECTS 1. 2. 3. 4.

Improper button hole size. Ragged edges caused by cut if dull knife causing fabric pulls. Thread shade that does not match specified color. Incompatible density of stitching in relation to the fabric.

FINISHING 1.

Draw cord length not as specified.

2. 3.

Odours – Offensive odour (Chemical odour). Improper Sealing.

SAMPLING TECHNIQUE The purpose of sampling is to draw correct conclusion about the population from the' sample, now if the sampling is not proper, we may be misguided for taking action onthe basis of wrong sampling. Again a inspector can not check all the items produced in a factory in the whole day, it will cause more man power, more cost, more time and more labor. If proper, sampling technique is used to draw sample, it will not only reduce these fa cto rs, w i ll al so red u ce the mo n o ton o u sne ss o f th e in sp e cto r . On e o f th e m o s t important thing of sampling technique is the business of the inspector. Inspector can not take sample as per his wish, he must follow the random number table and probability each item to be drawn is equal. There are various types of sampling of which, sample random sampling, stratified random sampling, systematic sampling are commonly used. SIMPLE RANDOM SAMPLING :- Is a method of selection n units out of N, such that every one of the Cn samples has an equal chance of being chosen. It is the simplest type of probability sampling and is the basis of most of the other sampling methods. In practice a single random sample is drawn unit by unit. I he units of the population are numbered I to N.A series of random numbers between I and N are drawn with the help of random number table or computer which produces such table.

USE A RANDOM NUMBER TO SELECT A SAMPLE:- the RAND Corporation of USA has published a random number table in 1955 in the name " A million random digits with 100000 normal Deviates" To select a sample with this table, let us consider we have 750 items numbered from 1 to 750 on each item and we want to draw a sample of size 5. For these purpose we need to select three digits number 001 to 750. First it is necessary to determine the starting point of the table. The random number table contains 50 rows and 50 columns of digits. We are starting from 8 t h row 39 t h column from there the first number is 471, 098, 443, 335 1 015 it we arrange 26

them in order then 015, 098, 335, 443, 471. Again we want to select sample of seize 10 from a population 500, for this we have to select three digit number i.e. from 001 to 500. Let us start from row 30 arid column 11 then our first number will be 732 but it is not in our serial no so we will exclude it, by going down we will have 752, 640, we will also exclude these. Next 268, 454, 013, 201, 017, 194, 361, 452, 419, 312 excluding all the numbers which are out of serial. Arranging the numbers in order 013, 017, 194, 201, 268, 312, 361, 419, 452, 454 these are the sample numbers which we want to select randomly.

PRE-SHIPMENT SURVEY BY ACCEPTANCE SAMPLING ACCEPTANCE SAMPLING:- Is the art or science that deals with procedures in which decision to accept or reject lots or process are based on- the examination of samples. 100 percent inspection is generally not justified because of time and cost as well as for t h e s h o r t a g e o f t r a i n e d ma n p o w e r . G o o d sa m p l i n g i n sp e c t i o n , w h e r e t h e i t e m s inspected are examined carefully may even provide. Better assurance -of product quality than 100 percent inspection with carelessness. The purpose of acceptance sampling is to specify course of action not to control lot quality. Acceptance sampling plan merely accepts c, , rejects lots. Generally we like to ensure that lots of manufactured goods do not contain an excessively large portion of defective items. This is achieved mainly through the technique of sampling inspection. Acceptance sampling has indirect effect on improvement of quality through its encouragement by high rate of acceptance of good quality and through discouragement of bad quality by high rate of rejection. It also reduces the risk of rejection of good lots and accepting of . bad lots on the basis of sample. TERMINOLOGY OF ACCEPTANCE SAMPLING LOTS SIZE :- Is the number of units in the lot and is denoted by "N" SAMPLE SIZE :- The number of units in the sample and is denoted by "n" LOT INSPECTION :- A specific quantity of similar material, or a collection of similar units, offered for inspection and acceptance at one time. SAMPLING INSPECTION PLAN:- A specific plan which states (a) the sample size (b) The criteria for accepting, rejecting, or taking another sample, to be used in c inspe ting a lot. ACCEPTANCE NUMBER :- The large number of defectives (or defects) in the sample or samples under consideration that will permit the acceptance of the inspection lot is called acceptance number, and is denoted by "Ac". REJECTION NUMBER :- The smallest number of defectives (or defects) in the sample or samples under consideration that will require the rejection of inspection lot is called rejection number, and is denoted by "Re". PRODUCER'S RISK :- The probability of rejecting a lot under the sampling inspection plan when the fraction defective in the lot is actually with in specified limit is called producer's risk and is denoted by "Pp" 27

CONSUMER'S RISK :- the probability of accepting a lot with higher fraction defective than the specified limit under the sampling inspection plan is called consumer's risk. And is denoted by "Pc". SINGLE SAMAPLING INSPECTION PLAN:- Is the sampling inspection plan in which a decision to accept or to reject a lot is reached after the inspection of a single sample. PROCESS AVERAGE QUALITY:- Expected quality of products form a given process, usually estimated from first sample inspection results of past lots. ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL :- The maximum percent defective that, for purpose of sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process average is called acceptable quality level anti is denoted by AQL. PROBABILITY OF ACCEPTANCE :- Probability that a lot or will be accepted is called probability of acceptance and is denoted by "Pa" OPERATING CHARECTERSTIC CURVE OR O.C CURVE :- A curve showing the relation between the probability of acceptance, either lot quality or . process quality, which ever is applicable is called O.C CURVE. The stealer the OC CURVE, the greater is the protector to the consumer against accepting a bad lot. AVERAGE SAMPLE NUMBER:- The expected value of the sample size required for Coming to a decision, i.e, for acceptance or rejection of a lot, under the sampling inspection plan is called average sample number and is denoted by ASN. The curve obtained by plotting ASN against "P" is called ASN curve. Lower the ASN curve better is the sampling inspection plan. MAJOR DEFECT.- A major defect is a defect that is likely to result in failure, or to reduce materially the Liability of the unit of product for its intended purpose. MINOR DEFECT:- A minor defect is a defect that is not likely to reduce m a t e r i a l l y t h e u s a b i l i t y o f t h e u n i t o f p r o d u c t for its intended purpose, or a departure from established standards having little bearing on the effective use or operation of the unit. Minor defects may be classified into two categories, more important minor defects may be designated as Minor "A" and less important ones, Minor "B" C R ITOR IA FOR S H IFTIN G TO TIGH TE N E D INSPECTICN:- When normal inspection is on effect, tightened inspection to be instituted when 2 out of 5 consecutive lots or batches have been rejected on original inspection. C R I T O R I A F O R S H I F T I N G TO N O R M A L I N S P E C T I O N F R O M TIGHTENED INSPECTICN:- When tightened inspection is in effect, normal inspection shall be

instituted when 5 consecutive lots or batches have been considered acceptable on original inspection, criteria for shifter to reduced inspection:- When normal inspection is on effect, reduced inspection maybe institute when, (a)

The preceding 10 lots or batches have been on normal inspection and has been accepted on original inspection.

28

(b) (c)

(d)

The total number of defects in the samples from the preceding 10 lots or batches are equal to or less than the desired level. Production is at a steady rate. Reduced inspection is considered desirable by the responsible authority.

CRITERIA FOR SHIFTING TO NORMAL INSPECTION FROM REDUCED INSPECTION :- When reduced inspection is on effect, normal inspection must be reinstated whenever a lot or batch is rejected or production becomes in e-regular .or delayed or other conditions warrant that normal inspection shall be instituted.

AQL SYSTEM FOR ACCEPTANCE SAMPLING (US-MIL-STD 105E) The AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) concept was first devised in connection with the development of statistical acceptance sampling for the Ordinance department of the U.S. Army in 1942, modified as MIL-STD- 105A in 1950, MIL-STD-105B in 1958, MILSTD-105C in 1961, MIL-STD-105D in 1963. American, British, Canadian military agencies has accepted it as common standard of acceptance sampling, that is why it is also called ABC, standard. Later on this standard has accepted by most of American and European organizations. Latest development of these series is MIL-STD-105E in 10 may 1989.

HOW TO USE (US-MIL-STD-105E) For the use of 'US-MIL-STD-105E we have to choose level of AQL first, next step is to find out sample size code letter according to lot size from the sample size code letter table, then: with" the help of sample size code letter and AQL level, to find out acceptance number and rejection number form the normal or tighten, single or double sampling table of US-MILSTD-105E.

CONTROL OF NON CONFORMING PRODUCTS Section 6 9.1

PURPOSE:

To prevent the dispatch of nonconforming products to the customer. 9 .2 S C OP E : This section applies to the products which do not conform the require quality. 9.3

ACTIVITIES:

9.3.1 Non-conforming goods are identified during the checking of receiving section. Process inspection or final inspection.

• When a major nor conformance is discovered i.e. (one that requires a managerial"{., 29

executive decision regarding it's disposition) it is so identified and segregated," subject to the appropriate management decision, the defective goods are reworked, accepted on concession, re-graded or rejected. • W`here appropriate, the customer is consulted concerning any concession.

CONCLUSION Quality has always been a primary requirement and consider to be the life of a garment. There is no denying the fact that XYZ Ltd. had 4 Quality Control System in the production process since its birth but there might been following have been differences in those applications in her five factories. Compiling this quality manual is a humble effort to put almost all necessary details of Quality Control System to ensure that all our factories have a written Manual/ Guideline in black and white to follow. In the beginning we will not concentrate on the statistical Quality Control System. We will follow this after a while when we have enough and required manpower to exercise that. Any positive inclusion in this manual which will help the factories in improving quality is always welcome; but has to done with prior approval from the Managing Director, XYZ Ltd. We all need to educate and train our work force in line with this Quality Manual to try ands streamline our quality system. Our united and sincere effort only can help to improve in the sector of quality.

XYZ Ltd. QUALTIY MANUAL Prepared Date : Issued date :

Prepared by : Checked by : Approved by :

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