Poznan In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Poznań No. 43, March - June 2016

No. 43 - 5zł

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Contents

Feature

Further Afield 6

Gniezno

68

10

Leisure

14 16

Lake Malta

70 73

Shopping

74

Culture & Events 18

Directory

80

Restaurants

24

Hotels

82

Cafés

40

Maps & Index

Nightlife

43

Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days

Arrival & Transport City Basics Basic History

Sightseeing Essential Poznań Sightseeing Ostrów Tumski Citadel Park Jewish Poznań Wielkopolska Uprising

51 52 60 62 65 66

1956 Uprising

67

Street Index Listings Index Features Index City Map City Centre Map

IN PRINT ONLINE ON YOUR MOBILE

Ah, just about time to start lounging on the grass once again. Hope those stormy clouds aren’t here to stay!

facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

89 90 91 92 94

Photo by K Pictures

March - June 2016

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Foreword As Poznań sheds its winter layers and gears up for the spring and summer, new opportunities for outdoor merrymaking blossom. The beer gardens are starting to creep out, the Citadel Park (p. 62) is suddenly leafy and green, and the splendid Malta Lake (p. 73) offers almost unending opportunities for rest and recreation, from a water park to a mini railway.

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Company Office & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716

In this issue, we’ve put together a recommended itinerary for those who have time just for the bare necessities (24h) and those who want to enjoy the city a bit longer (3 days). On our list, we offer not only plenty of warmer-weather options, but also tips for making the most of a rainy weekend.

Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Editorial Writers/Editors: Janina Krzysiak, Garrett Van Reed; Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Anna Żbikowska; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover © Piotr Gołębniak | dollar photo club

To find out what special events are taking place during your visit (Jazz concerts? Half-price weekend? Crazy student festival resembling a mass escape from a mental asylum?), refer to the Culture and Events section on page 18. However you choose to spend your visit, we’d always love to hear your thoughts and anything you’d like to see us add. You can find us on Facebook (/poznaninyourpocket) or via old-fashioned e-mail: [email protected].

Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642 Gdansk/Malbork Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824

FEATURE

Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Turn to page 6 for a conveniently concise rundown of not-tobe-missed Poznań experiences to help you with planning – and making the most out of – your stay here. Depending on your needs, we’ve compiled a 24h and 3 day version. Photo by © BestPhotoStudio | dollar photo club

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Poznań In Your Pocket

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Traditional Polish Cuisine

RATUSZOVA RESTAURANT STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ [email protected] WWW.RATUSZOVA.PL +48 618 510 513

WINNER

Summer colors in Poznań - the Royal Castle and the Franciscan Church | Photo by BestPhotoStudio - dollar photo club

Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days At Poznań In Your Pocket, we’re well aware (thank you) that our guide’s greatest strength - thoroughness - is also its biggest weakness. So here we’ve condensed our guide down into one article of quick suggestions for those whose time here is limited.

Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days 24 HOURS IN POZNAŃ If you’ve only popped into Poznań for a day, perhaps as a quick side-trip from Warsaw (good choice), there will be two main things you’ll want to see: the main square and Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island). Both contain an impressive amount of history, and both can take several hours if done right. If you get here in the morning, start your day with breakfast at Porannik or Projekt Kuchnia (p.41), then meander through the old-town streets to the heart of the city: the Old Town Square (p.52). Faithfully rebuilt from WWII rubble, it’s simply packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and mementos from the city’s rich history. While you’re here, you might want to check out the Arsenał City Gallery, featuring free, ever-changing contemporary art exhibitions, and sample some St. Martin’s rogale at the Poznań Croissant Museum, especially if you’re with kids). Walk around to examine various statues including the Bamber Peasant Girl, John of Nepomuk, and the Pranger (okay, more of a corporal punishment site than a statue), maybe take a selfie with the technicolor row of Merchant’s houses - you’ll know them when you see them - and make sure to be around at noon to watch the mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above the Town Hall clock (p. 53) and butt heads while a trumpeter plays the traditional bugle hall, a Poznań trademark famous throughout Poland. A quick walk to the Royal Castle (p.54 - most likely still closed for renovation as you’re reading this guide) might be in order after that, or perhaps a dip into the beautiful Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus on ul. Gołębia 1 (p.53). Should you find yourself in need of a coffee break, Stragan Cafe (p.40) and Piece of Cake (p.41) are good options; or just head to ul. Żydowska, the semi-official cafe street, and see what you can find. For lunch, we recommend Manekin (p.29) or Ludwiku do Rondla (p.34). In the afternoon, it’s off to Ostrów Tumski (p.60) for a crash-course in Polish history. This little island is considered the likely location of the baptism of Prince Mieszko I, a place “where Poland began”. Your first stop should ideally be at the new and highly-recommended Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre (p.60), where you can go through a multimedia exhibition explaining the importance of the Cathedral Island and pick up an audioguide to enhance your sightseeing experience as you visit the Poznań Cathedral, the Church of the Virgin Mary, and the Genius Loci Archeological Park. Soaking up centuries of turmoil and intrigue might just make you hungry; for good eats close to Ostrów Tumski, just cross the red Jordan Bridge back to the small but ancient district of Śródka (adorned with a large, colorful mural) and head to Wspólny Stół (p.36). If you prefer something a bit more formal, make your way to Ratuszova (p.36) on the Old Town Square. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

Poland’s most famous goats about to butt heads Photo by Grzegorz Babicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań

For a few evening drinks, check out the hip party scene at Off Garbary (p.48), a culture collective located in a former warehouse courtyard and composed of clubs, bars, and galleries. If you prefer a calmer vibe, sip some wine at Da Vinci (p.40), sample microbrews at Brovaria (p.44), or try to catch a concert at the legendary Blue Note Jazz Club (p.44).

3 DAYS IN POZNAŃ If you’re hanging around for a bit longer, there’s plenty more to see. Given that it doesn’t rain, your next must-visit will be Citadel Park (p.62), a place brimming with history of the more recent kind: a Prussian fort was built here in the 1800s, set to became the last stronghold of the Nazis during the 1945 Battle of Poznań. Now featuring several military cemeteries, two museums housed in the remains of the fort, an array of headless cast-iron sculptures named The Unrecognized, and a splendid rose garden, it’s a place to both reflect and relax amid the greenery. Another outdoor destination is the ever-so-popular Lake Malta (p.73), one of the region’s best recreation zones. Year-round attractions include a water park, thermal springs, spa, zoo, and bowling, while in the winter it’s also possible to ski and ice-skate. If you’d rather take a day-trip with a historical flavor, an easy option is Gniezno (p.68) the first Polish capital, featuring an impressive cathedral and the Museum of the Origins of the Polish State, but little to make you feel the atmosphere of millenium-ago Poland - conveniently located a short train ride away (30-55 min, trains run every half hour or so).

Ostrów Tumski with natural mood lighting Photo by Grzegorz Babicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań

March - June 2016

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Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.muzeumniepodleglosci. poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free. Y­U­N ARSENAŁ CITY GALLERY Founded in late forties under the somewhat commiesounding name Central Exhibition Bureau, Arsenał is one of the oldest players on Poznań’s art gallery scene. Currently organised by the Poznań City Council, the institution hosts exhibitions by Polish and foreign artists, organises educational meetings, and publishes an online art magazine called Punkt (Point).QC‑2, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Malta Lake can get quite busy when regattas roll around Photo by Dariusz Krakowiak

For more of a challenge (and more of a reward), try to access Biskupin, home to an open-air archeological museum, where you can imagine you’re king of your early-Slavic camp. Driving is by far the easiest option to get there; if you don’t have a car, try to book a tour from Poznań by inquiring at the Tourist Information Office (Stary Rynek 59/60, C-2 on map).

MALTESE BATHS Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this year-round facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of 16 pools including a wave pool and children’s play pool) and 13 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex (Spa 1306) with underground thermal springs, offering therapeutic and beauty baths, massage, hydromassage, rehabilitation, Wellness treatments (Turkish Hammam, Rasoul mud bath) and more from the fully trained staff.QK‑4, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www.termymaltanskie.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Prices start at 9zł for sports pools and water spark, 20zł for spa. Y

If the weather just isn’t on your side, there are plenty of indoor options apart from the Malta Lake Baths: visit the Bamber Museum (p.58) to find out about one of Poznań’s historical minority groups, or the 1956 Uprising Museum to immerse yourself in commie times; have a mystery meal at the Dark Restaurant (p.38); put your wits to the test at an escape room (p.71); go see an opera at the Great Theatre; and definitely try to see if there’s a fair going on at another of the city’s trademarks - the Poznań Trade Fair grounds (p.56), even if it’s just an expo of pots and pans or fishing equipment.

8

In short - enjoy your stay, have fun exploring the historical capital of Wielkopolska!

www.termymaltanskie.com.pl

1956 UPRISING MUSEUM The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden down a side entrance this basement masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills.QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82,

POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM Considering how much of a Poznań trademark St. Martin’s croissants are, it’s surprising that a museum dedicated to them has only just recently popped up in the city. The Croissant Museum hosts daily shows at 11:10 (the “Croissant and Goat Show”), 12:30, 13:45 (in English, Sat-Sun during off-season, daily from July until September), and 15:00; they include a multimedia presentation, legends, a tour of the historic museum building, a chance to bake croissants using traditional tools, and - of course - a tasting.QD‑2, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl. Closed Mon. Admission 16-18/14-16zł.

Poznań In Your Pocket

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LET’S MEET IN

BROVARIA The only place like it in Poznań

A business lunch, a family dinner, a date or a beer with friends... Original dishes from European cuisine and unique beer brewed in our own brewery help create a unique atmosphere for every occasion

Stary Rynek 73-74, 61-772 Poznań, tel. +48 61 858 68 68, +48 61 858 68 78

Arrival & Transport

Photo by Jakub Gąsiorowski, courtesy of City of Poznań.

BY TRAIN MAIN TRAIN STATION Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a new transportation centre has arisen alongside the old train station building, which integrates rail, tram, and bus connections in one modern, state-of-the-art underground transit station. As a result, this is now the point of entry for most visitors to the city, including those arriving at the airport and taking the direct bus to the centre, which drops off here. In this day and age, ‘modern’ and ‘state-of-the-art’ not only connote sleek, fully handicap-accessible facilities, but the incorporation of a new shopping mall (with parking for 900 cars), plus dozens of other opportunities for consumerism and refreshment dotted around the station (welcome to the 21st century). Other now-standard amenities include lockers for large luggage (have some coins handy), currency exchange and bank machines. The city of Poznań operates a tourist information desk, but there’s also the PKP-operated Train Station Office (open 07:00 - 21:00), which can help you plan your trip, get tickets, and even get into town. Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but using the ticket machines (which have English options) is just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a 10 Poznań In Your Pocket

small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited, but effective English functionality; if you want a seat on a particular train, it is best to book ahead. Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the main square costs about 20-30zł. Construction work still being done close to the station means occasional re-routing of tram lines, but take tram number 5 (to ‘Wrocławska’) or number 8 (to ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’) from the ‘Most Dworcowy’ stop located on the bridge, and you will only have a short 6-7 minute walk to the main square; a 10-minute ticket will suffice.QE‑4, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00.

© Tomasz Francuzik; courtesy of City of Poznań

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Arrival & Transport BY BUS

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

MAIN BUS STATION At the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station was integrated into the city’s spiffy new transportation centre below Poznań City Centre - more info on which you can find under Main Train Station, including what amenities are available, and how to get into town.QE‑4, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.pks.poznan.pl. Ticket office open 06:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

Poznań is crisscrossed by 19 tram routes (of which one runs at night), and 58 bus lines (20 at night). During the day these run from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams and buses running approximately every ten minutes. Tickets are bought from automated machines found on most buses and trams, as well as at most transport stops, and the fact that you can pay by card means you don’t have to stress about having change. The galaxy of ticket options travellers are presented with is far too complex to review here; you can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheapest option is a not-very-cheap 3zł for only 10mins - which might only get you 3 or 4 stops. A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket. Another option if you are here for a few days is the Poznan City Card which gives you free unlimited use of the public transport system as part of the price. It’ll save an awful lot of headaches. Note that kids under five and adults over 70 ride for free. Finally, it is extremely important that you remember to validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. If you don’t have a valid ticket and find yourself nicked by a plain clothes inspector you’ll be fined 140zł on the spot as well as the cost of the ticket you didn’t purchase/validate; and if you don’t pay within seven days the fine jumps up to 280zł. Yes, Poz public transport is a bit of a racket.

BY PLANE POZNAŃ ŁAWICA AIRPORT

Poznań Ławica Airport lies 7km west of central Poznań and recently opened a new arrivals terminal, with the old terminal now utilised for departures. In the new Arrivals terminal you’ll find an exchange bureau (kantor), cash machine (bankomat), and food vendors, as well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional copies of Poznań’s best guidebook. As with all sensible airports in this day and age, there is absolutely no left luggage facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone booths located before passport control - chip cards to operate them are available from every newsagent. They’ll also be able to sell you SIM cards and pre-paid cards for your mobile phone. Getting to town is a cinch. Car rental is available, and taxis stand right outside the entrance - you’ll probably overpay to take one, however. With taxi rates to the centre rather ridiculously ranging from 20-50zł depending on the time of day, it’s hard for us to say how much you should pay, but you should always agree on a fare with the driver before committing. Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right outside the entrance, Line 59 heads to Rondo Kaponiera every half hour from 05:05 to 22:55; Express Line L (Airport - Main Train Station) sends two buses per hour from 05:15 - 22:15. At other times the airport is connected to the train station by night bus 242, which runs every hour or so between 23:30 and 4:00 (note the inexplicable gap at 02:00); journey time 21 mins to Rondo Kaponiera. Single 40-minute tickets (4.60/2.30zł) can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket machines; remember to validate your ticket immediately upon boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.airport-poznan.com.pl. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS Poznań’s tram and bus network is incredibly easy to use, but if you want to make it even easier, check out the poznan.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop, and even tell you which ticket to buy. If you don’t have the patience for public transport in the first place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in PL: iTaxi.pl. iTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to create a profile, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny business. Download it for free from their website. March - June 2016

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Arrival & Transport TOURIST CARD Enterprising tourists should consider the Poznań Tourist Card - a splendid piece of plastic that entitles the bearer to free or discounted admission to more than 70 places, plus optional free travel on the city’s public transport system for a small additional fee. The card comes a guide explaining how to use it, which places offer free admission (most museums) and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres and other attractions such as the zoos, Lech Visitors Centre and various leisure activities). The card can also be used in selected places outside of the city, such as Kórnik Castle, where it is valid for an additional day on top of the number of days it is valid in the city. Cards cost 35zł for 1-day (30zł without transport), 49zł for 2-days (35zł without transport), and 59zł for 3-days (45zł without transport), and can be purchased from every Tourist Information Centre as well as a few hotels. Every venue in our guide which accepts the Poznań Tourist Card has been marked with a Y symbol.

EDITOR’S NOTE We don’t like to boast, but we wholeheartedly believe that Poznań In Your Pocket is the best guide, bar none, to Poznań and the surrounding region on the market. Written in a witty, impartial and informative style, here and on our website - poznan.inyourpocket.com you’ll find almost limitless amounts of info on what to see and do while in town, plus all the history and cultural background you could possibly wish for. Best of all, the information we give here is meticulously updated every four months so that it is as current and accurate as we can possibly make it at press time. Even more importantly, and in contrast to our competition, the editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is completely subjective and independent of paid-for advertising or sponsored listings. Contrary to urban myth, IYP writers do not accept free meals, sexual favours, firstborn children or other bribes in return for favourable reviews, and we reserve the right to say whatever we damn well please about the venues listed in our guides, regardless of disagreement from advertisers, owners or the general public. The editor has also done everything possible to ensure the accuracy of this guide at the time of going to press, but assumes no responsibility for unforeseen changes, errors, American spellings, poor service, unexpected pregnancies, disappointing food or terrible hangovers. To contact the editor directly, write to [email protected]. 12 Poznań In Your Pocket

BY CAR Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived, driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your vehicle for public transport at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it. Public parking lots are marked on the maps in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces for guests; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines on the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins or special chip cards from the parking authority office (so forget that option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is a bad idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it.

The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly unavailable to rent.

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Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid foreign driver’s licence or international driving permit. Be aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one for that matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car. Avis, the global leader in car rentals, offers short and long rental cars, vans and chauffeur-driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans, even hybrids. Over 1,000 models are available - all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety. Also at Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel, G-4).Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 35, www. avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Telephone line manned 24hrs a day. EUROPCAR Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 57, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

TAXIS Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You should expect to pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed by 2zł per kilometre. Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at night and for travel outside of the city limits. Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you. EURO TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 811 11 11, www.euro-taxi.com.pl. M1 TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 822 22 22, www.taxi.poznan.pl. RADIO LUX TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl. ZTP POZNAŃQtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

March - June 2016

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City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

TERRITORY Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of February 19, 2016 based on €1 = 4.33zł

LONGEST RIVER The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the Odra at Szczecin. POPULATION (2015) Poland - 38,478,602 Warsaw - 1,735,442 Kraków - 761,873 ​Łódź - 706,004 ​Wrocław - 634,487 ​Poznań - 545,680 ​Gdańsk - 461,489 ​Katowice - 301,834 LOCAL TIME Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Poznań it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the operator. English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be found in the Directory section of our guide. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo. 14 Poznań In Your Pocket

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread 20 Marlboros 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

9.40 zł 1.69 zł 23.99 zł 2.99 zł 8.00 zł 2.39 zł 15.20 zł 4.18 zł 4.60 zł

€ 2.17 € 0.39 € 5.54 € 0.69 € 1.85 € 0.55 € 3.51 € 0.97 € 1.06

LAW & ORDER In general Poznań is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are by in large harmless and easily ignored. Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. In recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca costumes to complete fools who’ve thought it’s perfectly acceptable to drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Poznań’s premier drunk tank (ul. Podolańska 46), where you can expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrantsa chastening experience which will set you back 250zł for a 6-24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course). Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport, Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect poznan.inyourpocket.com

City Basics jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot.

MONEY Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional restaurant or bar will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM, though for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list of Kantors in Poznań, see Directory. Since EU ascension, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was ten years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically costs 15-25zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-15zł.

RELIGION According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Poznań’s many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

LANGUAGE SMARTS Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Poznań and may even win you friends and admirers. On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... I’m from England. Do you speak English? I don’t speak Polish. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where are the toilets? You are beautiful. I love you. Please take me home. Call me!

Mam na imię... Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku? Nie mówię po polsku. Nie rozumiem. Dwa piwa proszę. Na zdrowie! Gdzie są toalety? Jesteś piękna. Kocham cię. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

Lotnisko Dworzec PKP Dworzec PKS Jeden bilet do…

(Lot-nees-ko) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

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Basic History Little do most visitors to Poznań realise, but the large and historical capital of Wielkopolska is the likely birthplace of the Polish state - in a way. As it happens, Poznań’s Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) is a top candidate for the location of the 966 baptism of Prince Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (and also the guy on the 10zł note). Known as the Baptism of Poland, this bold move ushered Christianity into the previously-polytheistic Slavic populace and brought new importance to Mieszko’s state in the European scene. Other contenders for the birthplace title include nearby Gniezno, the first Polish capital (located 50km from Poznań), and the island of Ostrów Lednicki (located 35km from Poznań) both absolutely worth a visit if you’re interested in Polish history or archeological sites in general. All three were strongholds built by Mieszko I, who had a penchant for warfare, but it was Poznań that became the seat of Poland’s first missionary bishop, and it was here that the first Polish cathedral was erected in 968. Known as the St. Peter Basilica, it served as the final resting place for the early Polish kings, and its n-th iteration (now called the Archcathedral Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul, but commonly known as Poznań Cathedral) is still standing proudly on Ostrów Tumski.

HISTORICAL TIMELINE 966: Mieszko I potentially baptised here 968: Poland’s first bishop takes up residence in Ostrów Tumski, Poznań Cathedral built 1038: City burned down by Bretislaus I, Duke of Bohemia 1039: City rebuilt by Casimir the Restorer 1253: Magdeburg rights bestowed on the city, construction of fortifications and castle begins 1534: City scales built 1536: Major fire 1655: Swedish and Brandenburgian occupation of the city 1704: Battle of Poznań (Northern War) 1793: Annexed by Prussia, becomes ‘Posen’ 1806: Napoleon temporarily headquartered in the city 1807: Becomes part of the Duchy of Warsaw 1815: Becomes part of Prussia again 1921: Poznań Fair starts 1918: Wielkopolska Uprising begins 1945: Battle of Poznań 1952: Creation of Lake Malta 1956: Poznań June (workers’ protests) 1999: Becomes capital of the Wielkopolska Voivodeship 16 Poznań In Your Pocket

Workers demand bread during the 1956 Poznań protests.

As a result, Poznań was quickly elevated to the status of an important religious and political centre, and all seemed to be going well until the Czech nation attacked, forcing inhabitants to flee and burning the entire place to the ground in 1038. Thankfully, it was soon rebuilt by the appropriately-named King Casimir I the Restorer, but its days of political greatness were on hold - the capital had been moved from heavily-damaged Gniezno to faraway Kraków, leaving Poznań to develop as a trade and commerce hub instead. The tide turned in 1253, when Przemysł I, Duke of Greater Poland, granted Magdeburg rights to the settlement during Poland’s feudal fragmentation, which lasted from 1138 until 1320. As fortifications and the Poznań Castle sprung up, the focus shifted from now-passe Ostrów Tumski to the new district centred around the Main Square. Poznań remained the capital of Wielkopolska rulers until the 1296 regicide of Przemysł II, when it came into Władysław I the Elbow-High’s sphere of influence. With the fragmentation resolved and King Elbow-High on the Polish throne in Kraków, the city was once again pushed into political insignificance and stagnation. Development and progress had to wait for the reign of Władysław II Jagiełło in the second half of the 14th century and the beginning of the 15th, whose pro-trade policies brought the city up to the ranks of Toruń and Lwów. And yet, the true golden age was still to come. A time of comparative peace, a change of trade routes, and favourable law-making caused the city to thrive and flourish during the Polish Renaissance (1500-1630), drawing merchants and craftsmen from near and far, who expanded the city well beyond its original walls. Fires, floods, and plagues that erupted with a certain regularity kept things from being completely rosy, but these things were to be expected in even the most prosperous cities of the time. All of this idyll came to a crashing halt in 1655, with what’s known in Poland as the “Swedish Flood” - a rather savage invasion of the now-benign northern poznan.inyourpocket.com

Basic History neighbours. The danger was compounded by their newlyfound allies, the Brandenburgians. First the Swedes, then the Brandenburgians acted as the city’s occupying force between August 1655 and August 1657, but they were ousted by a common uprising, which blockaded the city. The trouble was far from over, however - undisciplined szlachta (Polish nobility) and Polish military plundered Poznań, a support army sent for John II Casimir Vasa marched through shortly after, adding to the devastation, and - just for good measure - a bubonic plague breakout reduced the remaining population to a pitiful level. At this point in history, more houses in Poznań were standing empty than occupied, a drastic and macabre change from the recent golden age. Sadly, the 18th century proved no better - a succession of armed conflicts including the Northern War, the War of the Polish Succession, the Seven Years’ War, and the Bar Confederation all took a heavy toll, and it wasn’t until 1775 that foreign forces left the city. Things seemed to be looking up as Boni Ordinis (Good Order) Committees, organised by King Poniatowski, started the difficult process of restoring functionality to devastated Polish cities, but major trouble was ahead for the sovereign Polish state, as three forces - Russians, Prussians, and AustroHungarians - partitioned the country for good in 1795. It wouldn’t be until the end of WWI that Poland would regain independence; meanwhile Poznań had to cope with its new reality under Prussian occupation. Doing so didn’t come easy, but Prussia’s war with Napoleon’s France provided a glimmer of hope. The successful 1806 Wielkopolska Uprising, aided by Napoleon himself, led to the creation of the Duchy of Warsaw, a short-lived state which fell to the Prussians again in 1815. A second uprising by inhabitants of the Poznań Province, in 1818-1819, secured the region’s safe return to the newly independent Polish state. During WWII, the region was to be annexed by Germany again, and much of the Polish and Jewish populace to be shipped to concentration and forced labour camps. Towards the end of the war the city was the site of a key battle between advancing Soviet forces and retreating Nazis: the 1945 Battle of Poznań. It took a full month to oust the Germans, and the havoc wreaked on the city was immense; up to 90% of the historic Old Town was now in shambles and had to be reconstructed in the post-war years. From 1952, the start-year of the socialist Polish People’s Republic, Poznań saw many workers’ protests stemming from dissatisfaction with the commie regime; they reached their peak in 1956, during the tragic Poznań June, a month of general strikes and street demonstrations brutally crushed by security forces, during which 57 people lost their lives. In the 1960s, intensive commie-style housing development started taking place, and the Warta River was re-routed to lessen the danger of flooding. Currently, Poznań is an industry, trade, and tourism hub, regularly hosting trade fairs and international events at its Poznań International Fair site. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

THE PIASTS More than any other major city in the country, Poznań’s history is tied to the Piast dynasty and the very birth of Poland. Poland’s first ruling family were the Piasts, and though the family line goes back to the 8th century we’ll start with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’s the fella on the 10zł note). Born in 935AD his life generally revolved around the battlefield, but when he wasn’t leading his troops into conflict from the Baltic Coast to the plains of Silesia, he spent most of his time here in Wielkopolska, specifically his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrów Lednicki. Baptised in 966 he founded Poznań Cathedral two years later, a move seen by many as the beginning of the nation’s Christianisation. Meanwhile, Adalbert - the first Bishop of Prague - arrived in Gniezno in search of a quieter life. Soon, however, he was persuaded out of exile to convert the barbarous Prussian tribes to Christianity, but his head almost immediately ended up on a spike. Back in Poz, Mieszko had been succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on the 20zł note) in 992, who decided he would personally make the perilous journey to recover Adalbert’s corpse. Bolesław’s act so impressed the Pope that he sent Otto III - the head of the Holy Roman Empire - to Gniezno in 1000 to view Adalbert’s remains and meet with Bolesław. It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was established in Gniezno, and 25 years later Bolesław had himself crowned King. Commonly known as ‘Bolesław the Great’ or ‘Bolesław Chrobry’ the nation’s first regent is credited with unifying the regions of Poland, as well as strengthening Poland’s international standing through his smart diplomacy. Although his son and heir, Mieszko II, died in suspicious circumstances nine years into his reign, the Piasts remained in power and continued to rule Poland for centuries, despite frequently finding themselves in conflict with the landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened to disintegrate, and upon the 1320 coronation of Władysław I concerted efforts were again made to unite Poland’s various provinces. The work of Władysław was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would later be known as ‘Kazimierz the Great’ - he doubled the size of Poland, stabilised the economy, commissioned the construction of a numerous castles and forts, and eventually got himself on the 50zł note. What he failed to do, however, was have a son (despite the efforts of four wives), and his death in 1370 marked the end of the Piast dynasty. Although the royal court was moved to Kraków in the 11th century the Wielkopolska region is synonymous with the Piasts and their time at Poland’s helm. Today, a special tourist route called ‘The Piast Route’ connects the most important sites integral to Poland’s early beginnings; for a comprehensive list visit the website of the Piast Route Tourist Organisation: www.turystyka.powiat-gniezno.pl. March - June 2016

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Culture & Events

Malta Festival | Photo by Maciej Zakrzewski

CINEMAS

BALLET

CHARLIE MONROE KINO MALTA QC‑3, ul. Rybaki 6a, tel. (+48) 605 47 44 99, www. kinomalta.pl. Box office open from 15 minutes before the first showtime until the last performance. Tickets 7-16zł.

12.03 SATURDAY VALSES DE VIENNE There are a couple things that make Vienna Vienna: Sachertorte, Schönbrunn Palace, and, of course, the waltz. Let yourself be carried back to Austria of the Romantic era by the Budapest Strauss Orchestra & Ballet, a forty-person ensemble set to perform The Blue Danube, Radetzky March, Tarantella, and other masterpieces by father and son Strauss.QA‑1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9. Performance starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-160zł. Available at www. ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

MULTIKINO MALTA QK‑5, Galeria Malta, ul. Abpa A. Baraniaka 8, tel. (+48) 61 628 17 24, www.multikino.pl. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 1636zł. MUZA QB‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 30, tel. (+48) 61 852 34 03, www. kinomuza.pl. Box office open from 14:00, Sat from 11:00, Sun from 12:00 until the last performance. Tickets 8-20zł. PAŁACOWE QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (Castle Cultural Centre), tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 21:00. Tickets 14-17zł, Tue 11zł. RIALTO QE‑3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 61 847 53 99, www.kinorialto.poznan.pl. Box office open from 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets 10-18zł, 3D screenings 15-20zł. 18 Poznań In Your Pocket

CONCERTS 04.04 MONDAY MATT DUSK The stubbly-chinned Canadian jazz musician Matt Dusk has one platinum and two gold albums to brag about: they are My Funny Valentine: The Chet Baker Songbook, Two Shots, and Good News, and the man also has had three number one radio hits. He recently collaborated with Polish singer Margaret on the album Just the Two of Us, which came out last November.QE‑4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 90190zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). poznan.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 10.04 SUNDAY QUEEN SYMPHONICALLY We loooove symphonic versions of supreme powerhouse rock and metal hits, so we’re excited for this performance of Queen’s timeless classics re-imagined by Alla Vienna Orchestra and Vivid Singers. If you’re not completely into that, worry not: part two will be pure rock. Actor and singer Mariusz Ostrowski will emulate the legendary Freddy Mercury.QA‑1, University Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego 1. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 99-119zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). 16.04 SATURDAY ERA JAZZU: CHICO FREEMAN, FORTUNA / DYS, DAWID KOSTKA PROJECT Three (actually four) in one - this April evening will feature American saxophonist and trumpeter Chico Freeman of the Freeman jazz family, the Maciej Fortuna and Krzysztof Dys trumpet/piano duo, and the Era Jazzu 2016 Prize laureate Dawid Kostka. Let’s see how well these artists will mesh. QA‑2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100-120zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

@PoznanIYP 18.04 MONDAY ERA JAZZU: CHINA MOSES Jazz storyteller China Moses, owner of quite an unusual name and a splendid voice, completed two music projects dedicated to the great dames of blues and soul with pianist Raphaël Lemmonier, resulting in the albums This One’s For Dinah (2009) and Crazy Blues (2012). The American artist lives in Paris and was the French voice of Disney’s Princess Tiana from The Princess and the Frog.QA‑1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 80140zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). 24.04 SUNDAY U2 SYMPHONICALLY: M.PIEKARCZYK, K.KOWALSKA, R.BRZOZOWSKI, K.DEREŃ, M.ZIÓŁKO Symphonic versions of anything and everything are all the rage currently - what started out with heavy metal moved on to rock, pop, video game music, and more. So why not give familiar U2 hits (like “One”, “With or Without You”, “Pride”, “Sunday Bloody Sunday”) a symphonic make-over? Polish artists taking part in this music project include Marek Piekarczyk, Kasia Kowalska, and Rafał Brzozowski.QE‑4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70-290zł. Available at www. ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

FESTIVALS 21.04 THURSDAY - 23.04 SATURDAY ENEA SPRING BREAK A grand total of fifty artists will be coming together to make this year’s Spring Break truly great. Two of the guests you might recognize are Brodka and Dawid Podsiadło; as for the rest, just let yourself be surprised.Qwww.springbreak.pl. Festival pass 89-100zł. Available at www. eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). 24.05 TUESDAY - 25.05 WEDNESDAY ENTER MUSIC FESTIVAL



Photo: Jakub Wittchen

Enter the Enter Music Festival in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district! Perfect early-summer relaxation awaits at the Strzeszyńskie Lake with a yet-unknown line-up of musicians; previous years’ performers included Gaba Kulka, Olo Walicki, Możdżer Danielsson Fresco Trio, Andrzej Bauer, Atom String Quartet, and Cellonet.Qul. Koszalińska 15 (Jeżyce), www.enterfestival.pl. Full schedule and ticket prices undecided at the moment. 16.06 THURSDAY - 19.06 SUNDAY ETHNO PORT FESTIVAL



Photo: Maciej Kaczyński/ CK Zamek

We’re always excited when Ethno Port rolls around, and you should be, too - the festival means not just music from around the world (and we mean a legitimately diverse selection), but also visual arts, literature, theatre, dance, and cinema. Last year Ethno Port hosted artists from Senegal, Mali, Portugal, South Africa, Mauritania, Greece, and Peru, among others, and we can’t wait to see what’s in store this year.QA‑2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, www.ethnoport.pl. Full schedule and ticket prices undacided at the moment. Check our website for updates. March - June 2016

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Culture & Events 29.06 WEDNESDAY BOBBY MCFERRIN Don’t worry, be happy - Bobby McFerrin is bringing all his 10-time Grammy-winning greatness to the Poznań International Fair ground for a hot late-June concert.QE‑4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120-260zł. Available at www. ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

EXHIBITIONS 06.12 SUNDAY - 22.05 SUNDAY FRAGILE LIKE DRAGONFLIES… “Fragile” isn’t a word you often hear associated with the military, but, hey, there’s a first time for everything. The inexplicably poetic title describes an exhibition of over 500 models of military jets in 1:72 scale gifted to the Wielkopolska Military Museum by the Rogacki family. QD‑2, Wielkopolska Military Museum, Stary Rynek 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. 23.02 TUESDAY - 17.05 TUESDAY ILLEGIBILITY. CONTEXTS OF WRITING Various contemporary artists explore the topic of (hand) writing and illegibility by inventing their own alphabets and anti-alphabets, playing around with letters and shapes, and obscuring phrases that might carry meaning.QG‑4, Art Stations Foundation, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 61 22, www.artstationsfoundation5050. com. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission free. 11.03 FRIDAY - 28.03 MONDAY DAILY LIFE - SŁAWOMIR KUSZCZAK Painter and professor at the University of Arts in Poznań, Sławomir Kuszczak creates colorful, dynamic works filled with tension. Thus exhibition will showcase some of his most recent paintings.QC‑2, Arsenał City Gallery, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. 11.03 FRIDAY - 27.03 SUNDAY NEW IMAGE / NEW VIEWPOINT This art exhibition will present works by finalists of the University of Arts in Poznań Art Award competition. See the next Sasnals and Bałkas before they become famous. QC‑2, Arsenał City Gallery, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

FESTIVALS 17.06 FRIDAY - 28.06 TUESDAY MALTA FESTIVAL The biggest summer highlight on the city’s cultural calendar, Malta has been something of a Poznań institution since its original conception back in 1991 as the International Theatre 20 Poznań In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events Festival. In the past the festival has seen performances by Nine Inch Nails, Goran Bregovic, Jan Kaczmarek, Elvis Costello, Sinead O’Connor, and the Buena Vista Social Club. Strangely, however, the musical focus is something of a recent trend. When it started, the festival focused on theatre alone, and was promoted as the Polish version of the Edinburgh Festival - full of fringe acts performing abstract plays. Fortunately, and in spite of the growing pull towards the mainstream, alternative theatre still plays a huge part in the Malta Festival. On top of that, there’ll be plenty of film screenings, workshops, and exhibitions at venues across town.Qwww.malta-festival.pl. Tickets 0-15zł.

FOR THE KIDS 22.03 TUESDAY - 23.03 WEDNESDAY THE SNOW QUEEN There was Frozen, now there’s this ballet-acrobatics-opera show by Anna Niedźwiedź - re-imagined versions of Andersen’s fairy tale have really become quite the thing. The Great Theatre performers will be breathing new life into the classic children’s story, emphasizing its universal message.QA‑1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. Performances start at 18:00. Tickets 12-110zł. Box office open 13:00 - 19:00; Sun 16:00 - 18:00 on performance days only.

MISC. EVENTS 01.04 FRIDAY - 11.04 MONDAY RESTAURANT WEEK Calling all foodies: for a week this April, you’ll have the chance to sample special three-course meals from top Poznań restaurants for the price of 39 PLN each - close to a bargain, given the usual prices.Qwww.restaurantweek.pl. (39zł). 06.04 WEDNESDAY CHIPPENDALES That’s right, twelve shirtless hunks stripping for a mostlyfemale audience; the Chippendales show has become a legend since its start in 1979, spawning numerous spin-offs and legitimising male stripping as classy fun for women of all ages (the same thing 50 Shades of Grey recently did for erotica novels).QE‑4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 119-159zł. Available at www.eventim. pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). BOARD GAME THURSDAYS As 90s kids have grown into their twenties, board games have become the trendy thing to do during adult gettogethers - just as well. Alternativa Club is now hosting weekly boardgaming sessions, offering a huge selection of popular and lesser-known games. So go rediscover your childhood faves, or let the enthusiastic volunteers choose something for you.QA‑2, Alternativa Club (CK Zamek), ul. Św. Marcin 80/82. Event starts at 18:00. Admission free. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

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Culture & Events OPERA 19.03 SATURDAY - 20.03 SUNDAY CAVALLERIA RUSTICANA / PAGLIACCI Ah, the classic Cav/Pag double-bill: two short operas involving picturesque Italy and bloody murders. Cavalleria Rusticana was composed by Pietro Mascagni for an operatic competition; Pagliacci was Ruggero Leoncavallo’s response, composed in similar spirit. On the Great Theatre stage both will be performed in the original Italian with Polish supertitles. QA‑1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. Tickets 6-90zł. Box office open 13:00 - 19:00; Sun 16:00 - 18:00 on performance days only. 28.04.2016

DIDO AND AENEAS conductor

within the Opera Theatre Laboratory Project

18.06.2016

BORIS GODUNOV conductor

director

AUDIENCE SERVICE group booking & information: 8:00-16.00, +48 61 65 90 280 / 61 65 228

SOLOIST OF THE METROPOLITAN OPERA

30.03 WEDNESDAY - 31.03 THURSDAY MADAME BUTTERFLY An opera in three acts by Giacomo Puccini, based on John Luther Long’s short story of the same title. Poorly received upon the 1904 premiere at La Scala in Milan, it was reworked by Puccini to become the huge hit it continues to be to this day.QA‑1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. Performances start at 19:00. Tickets 12-110zł. Box office open 13:00 - 19:00; Sun 16:00 - 18:00 on performance days only.

PHILHARMONIC 27.04 WEDNESDAY LA SCALA CHAMBER ORCHESTRA Cameristi della Scala are a chamber orchestra formed by members of Teatro alla Scala, whose repertoire includes lots of lesser-known or mostly-forgotten pieces from 19th century Italy.QA‑1, University Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 159-199zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). 28.04 THURSDAY ADAM SZTABA ORCHESTRA Adam Sztaba is a musical Renaissance man - he’s a composer, music arranger, producer, conductor, pianist, and TV personality. In 2005 he started his own pop orchestra, which has collaborated with stars including Michael Bolton, Lemar, Helena Vondráčková, and Karel Gott.QE‑4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 79-199zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).

SPECIAL EVENTS 30.04 SATURDAY - 01.05 SUNDAY HALF-PRICE POZNAŃ Poznań is already cheap for guests from the West, but hey, half price is twice as nice. For one weekend, enjoy over one hundred hotels, restaurants, museums, and various attractions for 50% off. Last year, they included the Croissant/Rogal Museum (forget not that this is the city of 22 Poznań In Your Pocket

poznan.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events delicious St. Martin’s croissants), the Pyrland Ropes Course, and free Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu lessons. Check the website for the full list.Qwww.poznanzapolceny.pl. 09.06 THURSDAY - 12.06 SUNDAY JUWENALIA Juwenalia are an annual holiday for college students - an ageold tradition, but celebrated with undying enthusiasm year after year. Since they take place shortly before final exams, they offer the young and restless a last chance to let loose and party like there’s no tomorrow before hitting the books. There will be parades, open-air concerts (this year’s line-up still to be determined), performances and binge-drinking; if hordes of cacophonous and flashily dressed college students aren’t really your thing, you might want to get out of the city for a few days.QŁęgi Dębińskie, ul. Jordana (Wilda), www.juwenalia. poznan.pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time.

AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL 13-18 kwietnia 2016 Poznań James Blood Ulmer Deborah J. Carter D. Kostka Project Get The Blessing Anthony Strong Chico Freeman Fortuna / Dys China Moses

SPORT 17.04 SUNDAY POZNAŃ HALF MARATHON If you’re a runner who doesn’t take vacations, and you happen to be in Poznań in April, running the Poznań Half Marathon could be a fun thing to do (not to mention a good way to see the city from a different perspective). Best of all, during this time of year you won’t have to worry about excessive temperatures.Qwww.halfmarathon. poznan.pl. Event starts at 09:00. Registration fee 90zł.

THEATRE 09.05 MONDAY NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE - THE AUDIENCE Screenwriter Peter Morgan and actress Helen Mirren are back, expanding on their acclaimed 2006 film The Queen to turn it into an equally successful stage production. The play is directed by Oscar nominee Stephen Daldry (known from Billy Elliot and The Hours), and will be shown in the original English version with Polish subtitles.QG‑4, Multikino, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 427, www.multikino.pl. Spectacle starts at 19:00. Tickets 35/30zł. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. www.jazz.pl

TRADE FAIRS 31.03 THURSDAY - 03.04 SUNDAY MOTOR SHOW FAIR Poznań is the city of industrial fairs, and the Motor Show might be one of the most interesting ones hosted by the city. See some of the best and newest cars, campers, and motorcycles. According to organisers, this is the biggest car show in this part of Europe - presumably Central-Eastern. We don’t know if that’s true, but the fair is definitely worth checking out if you’re into automobiles.QE‑4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14, www.motorshow.pl. Events start at 10:00. Tickets 15zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

S P O N S O R S T R AT E G I C Z N Y

PAT R O N AT

W S P Ó Ł P R AC A I M E D I A

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Restaurants

For delicious fresh seafood in a casual atmosphere, visit Restauracja Momo (p.30).

Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce, but its restaurant scene has only recently started taking off, with a scattering of world-class restaurants and an increasing number of good ethnic options. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print guide carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s most noteworthy restaurants, however there are many more listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com) where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited. All our reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours are verified as we send this guide off to the printer, but keep in mind that they’re subject to change. Where the venue is not on our map we have included the district where it is located in brackets. Below is a selection of recommendations depending on what you may be looking for. SPLURGE Any ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a slew of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (International), where you’ll find very modern versions of Polish cooking in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting. For upmarket close to the market square, try Delicja (International), or for something out of the centre the daringly modern SPOT. (International). 24 Poznań In Your Pocket

COUPLES Restauracja MUGA (International), and its attached Casa De Vinos wine bar (p.47), is the perfect place to impress your date, while Figaro (Italian) is so over-the-top you half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something completely different, think of all the naughty things you can do under the table in the pitch black of Dark Restaurant (see p.38). POLISH The market square’s Ratuszova is the best Polish food you’ll find in Poznań, in one of the most elegant interiors you’ve ever eaten in. In contrast, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem and Wiejskie Jadło do traditional interpretations of Polish food in rustic environs, while the hip Yeżyce Kuchnia gives Polish cuisine a modern makeover. QUICK EATS For a speedy but tasty meal that will leave you with more time to sightsee, try the dizzying selection of crepes at Manekin, a highly-customized burger at Wagon Mięsa, a quiche or two at Francuski Łącznik, or any of the vegetarian listings on p.38. SPECIAL DIET In addition to our Vegetarian listings on p.38, don’t miss hip locales like Pracownia (Fusion) and SPOT. (International) for gluten-free and vegan dishes. If it’s Polish food you’re after, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem will adapt any of their dishes exactly to your dietary needs and desires. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

S Take away

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

AMERICAN SOMEPLACE ELSE Some baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping that Someplace Else is the full monty - here’s a place that gets both food and drink completely right, with a largely American/Tex-Mex menu hitting points for the best burger for miles - sometimes that’s just what you need. The diner design is straight out of road-trip USA, and a great spot for ties-off, after-office chow and beers. With 9 TVs, this is also one of your best bets for catching that match - be it European or American. QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else. pl. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Sun 17:00 - 23:30. (15-80zł). T­Y­U­G­S­W NEW WAGON MIĘSA No doubt about it, gourmet burgers have taken Poland (and a fair share of Europe) by storm. Wagon Mięsa (Train Car of Meat) is one of the better places you can go for your burger needs, serving both elaborate quadruplemeat-layer creations the size of your arm and the biggest selection of veggie burgers we’ve seen (seven at last count) in an urban, metro-themed interior, complete with graffiti. QD‑1, ul. Szewska 20, tel. (+48) 512 35 73 40. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (15-20zł). 6­U­N­ G­S

FRENCH BISTRO LA COCOTTE Only a stones throw from Stary Rynek, what was once a location known for late night ex-pat drinking sessions (under the auspices of ‘The Vikings’ and ‘Murna’) has managed to re-establish itself as a rather excellent French bistro specialising in fresh ‘fruits de mer’ and duck confit. The small, but cosy interior makes it plenty inviting, but the outdoor summer garden is the real reason to visit in warmer months. Why battle for seats when you can enjoy fresh mussels and a carafe of fine French wine in a relaxed atmosphere before entering the bright lights of the square? Well recommended.QC‑2, ul. Murna 3a (corner of ul. Kozia), tel. (+48) 600 44 17 69. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (2546zł). T­G­S­W facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

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Restaurants ul. Podgórna 6 Poznań 61-829 tel. +48 61 850 14 20 /PoznanDrukarnia

FRANCUSKI ŁĄCZNIK There might be cafes for coffee, pizzerias for pizza, and pierogarnias for pierogi, but what about a quicheria for quiches (and tarts)? That is the business model Francuski Łącznik (The French Connection) went for, and it seems to be working. If you like a good crust-based treat and can enjoy Louis-whichever style of furniture, this might just be heaven.QD‑1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. (+48) 509 50 97 27. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (10-20zł). T­6­G­S

FUSION DRUKARNIA SKŁAD WINA & CHLEBA POZNAŃ Despite being within spitting distance of the Rynek, Podgórna isn’t the most fashionable street in Poznań, so we were pleasantly surprised to discover this trendy eatery and cafe. Fresh sourdough bread is baked before your eyes in the minimal-chic interior, and the menu comprises not only a range of sandwiches, soups, and appetisers to complement the bakery, but also a full card of rich and colourful fusion creations to complement the upmarket tastes of the wine list. Everything from the kitchen looks like it could be featured in a food art magazine (in fact they sometimes offer workshops on food photography), and overall Drukarnia is evidence of just how far the city’s culinary scene has come on in the past few years. New artwork (available for sale) appears on the walls every month or so.QC‑2, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. (+48) 61 850 14 20, poznan-drukarnia.pl/pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (15-79zł). T­6­G­ S­W

WINNER

Traditional Polish Cuisine

FUSION RESTAURANT Top class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiece restaurant. Chic and sexy: this is designer dining the way it’s meant to be with inventive dishes like Thai-style noodles appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the proletariat scurrying to work. Also of interest is their intimate Wine Tower, which can be booked in advance for up to 4 people to enjoy a menu created with the chef and over 60 types of wine.QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.fusion-poznan.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:30, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 17:00. (29-130zł). T­Y­U­G­ S­W

GREEK Sous - Vide beef sirloin steak in cracked pepper sauce

RATUSZOVA RESTAURANT STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ [email protected] WWW.RATUSZOVA.PL +48 618 510 513

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MYKONOS GRECKA TAWERNA Relive your Mediterranean summer at this Greek owned joint. Blue and white interiors come adorned with pics of Greek beach scenes and scale models of fishing vessels while the menu is a romp through classics like souvlaki and lamb ribs.QB‑2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. (+48) 61 853 34 36, www.tawerna-mykonos.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28-56zł). T­G­S­W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants INDIAN SHIVAZ Regular readers of our Poznań guide will know that the city has had some issues with ethnic food over the years, none so much as Indian. Not here though. If it’s Indian you want then this is the recommended place in this city, though because of the paucity of the competition that’s not the plaudit it might sound. Lunches from 11:30-15:30 Mon-Fri include a 19zł vegetarian option and an 24zł meat option. QA‑2, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16/3a (entrance from ul. 27 Grudnia), tel. (+48) 61 855 75 57, www. restauracjaindyjskashivaz.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (24-34zł). V­G ­S ­W

INTERNATIONAL 3 KOLORY Overlooking Lake Malta, 3 Kolory is a bright, modern and welcoming restaurant which is definitely worthy of a visit despite its location on the far side of the lake. The menu caters to all tastes (salads, fish, steaks, pizzas) and the dishes are so beautifully presented (steaks served on cedar planks!) that it’s almost a shame to have to eat them. But don’t let that stop you. The food is cooked via the sous vide technique (low temps) and on grill stones to create unique flavours. The karkówka steak would be our personal recommendation, but to be fair every dish being brought out of the kitchen looked tempting and a return visit is certainly on the cards. 3 Kolory recently opened another location at Obornicka 55a (Suchy Las), where they serve lunch meals.QK‑4, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 501 40 28 27, www.3-kolory.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. (20-69zł). T­6­V­G­ S­W AVOCADO RESTAURANT & WINE Misleadingly, the amount of avocado-based offered by this higher-end restaurant is exactly zero; but you might find some avocado on breakfast toast, an avocado smoothie, or perhaps a starter, depending on the seasonal menu. But perhaps there’s no use in wishing for more, as the remaining avocado-less dishes are delicious, too. Off the tourist path and hidden in a Jeżyce courtyard, this bright, modernly decorated spot is well worth seeking out if you get hungry while exploring the neighbourhood.QE‑3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 29, tel. (+48) 61 307 14 45, www. avocado-poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (19-40zł). T­G­S­W BLOW UP HALL 5050 Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50% business. Complementing the award winning hotel and bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end of the Poznań market - as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine is facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

Join us for Sunday Brunches Immaculate buffet with Mediterranean and Polish specialties. Dishes prepared by our chefs based on your individual preferences. Every Sunday from 1 PM until 5 PM. 130 PLN per person. Discounts for children. Fusion Restaurant (Sheraton Poznan Hotel) ul. Bukowska 3/9, Poznan phone 61 655 2000 [email protected] www.fusion-poznan.pl facebook.com/restauracja.fusion.poznan

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Restaurants superb and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe. QG‑4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www. blowuphall5050.com. Open 14:00 - 22:00. (20-130zł). T­U­G­W BROVARIA Go formal and pick the right hand room for a smoothly subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-file and head either to the brewing hall outback, the bar to the side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria have something for everyone, with the premium prices reserved for a tender fillet steak served with a separate bowl of swirly mashed potato. Or consider tucking into the beer feast essentially a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of seafood and meat. Not for nothing have Brovaria been crowned king of the expatriate scene.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www. brovaria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2364zł). T­G­S­W CONCORDIA TASTE A long-standing editorial favourite, thanks to their willingness to buck trends and try something different. The design is what you would call post-industrial and the clientele sharp-dressed and out to impress. The food comes beautifully presented by efficient staff and the menu features some truly mouth-watering options. There’s now a live cooking station and Family Sundays with a supervised play area and kids’ workshops, so check out what’s on beforehand.QE‑3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 44 19, www.concordiataste.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 - 20:00. (18-69zł). T­UG ­ ­ S­W DĄBROWSKIEGO 42 Climb up the steps and enter what is one of the city’s more innovative and fresh-looking restaurants. The light and airy wood-filled rooms make it a great place to drool over the menu (while we weren’t able to sample everything this time, the pork tenderloin with chanterelle mushroom sauce has certainly given us an excuse to return) and a great little kids area allows you to enjoy your meal in peace. QE‑3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 42 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 797 99 79 95, www.dabrowskiego.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (1862zł). T­6­G­S­W DELICJA Poznań fine dining doesn’t get better than this. Winner of countless accolades, Delicja serves a combo of Mediterranean and Polish recipes including superb lamb. This definitely falls at the upper end of the food chain, and the interior comes filled with silver candleholders, immaculate linen, and live classical music - check online for the concert schedule.QB‑2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. (+48) 61 852 11 28, www.delicja.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (4885zł). 6­E­G­W 28 Poznań In Your Pocket

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Restaurants FLAVORIA Tucked away deep inside the IBB Andersia Hotel, Flavoria isn’t the type of place you just stumble across by accident. But those willing to sniff it out will find a smart, modern restaurant with a good mixture of international cuisine ranging from standard breakfast buffets (06:30 - 11:00 daily) to more sophisticated evening dishes like rabbit stewed in cream. With daylight streaming through the large windows by day and dim candlelight during dinner, Flavoria is one of the city’s more formal restaurants, ideal for business lunches and other such upmarket eating occasions.QG‑4, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 80 81, www. andersiahotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:00, 13:00 - 23:00. (30-95zł). T­Y­G­W LAVENDA GASTRO & CAFE There are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the back streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed tough; Lavenda slots right in there with the very best of them, though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great array of hot drinks, wines, and light food make this the perfect place to share a lunchtime coffee or to meet for an intimate first date. Breakfast is served daily between 08:00 and 12:00 and lunchtime goes from 12:30 until 16:00.QD‑2, ul. Wodna 3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95, www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. (14-34zł). T­6­G­S­W

Mickiewicza 9, Poznań Phone: +48 728 442 165

LE TARG An excellent place to indulge in some fine food whilst taking in the sights and sounds of Stary Browar. A modern and classy interior is matched with a spot-on menu which uses fresh, organic ingredients. As well as serving up breakfasts, salmon fillets, pizzas, and pastas, the bread is cooked on-site and their home-made jams will leave you licking your lips and wanting more. In the warmer months you can enjoy your lunch in the garden terrace.QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 44, www.le-targ.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (19-59zł). T­U­G­S­W MANEKIN Some places just seem to get it spot-on and Manekin is one of them. Set over three levels, this is crepe/pancake heaven and offers all the usual options plus more maverick choices like chicken curry, or camembert, raspberries and almonds. With almost 100 different fillings to choose from you won’t be going home disappointed, providing you can find yourself a table as, despite being huge, this place is usually packed to the rafters with happy punters who know a good deal when they see one. The quirky and homely interior (with zany lamps, murals, and - of course - mannequins) also makes eating here feel more like a proper restaurant experience than an eat-and-run.QC‑3, ul. Kwiatowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 222 00 01, www.manekin. pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (4-17zł). T­U­G­S­W facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

PASSION FOR FOOD Wodna 3/4, 61-781 Poznań Phone +48 61 852 49 95 www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl

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Restaurants EASTER IN POLAND

Palm Sunday (March 20) marks the official beginning of Poland’s Easter festivities – perhaps the country’s most sacred holiday. Leading up to the season you will see decorative handmade palms for sale all over Poznań’s market square. These traditional decorations are made from a variety of dried flowers and plants, and taken to church on Palm Sunday to be blessed before decorating Polish homes until the end of the season. As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter (Wielkanoc) celebrations seriously; throughout the period, the visiting foreigner can expect bars and restaurants to be either empty or closed beginning on Good Friday (March 25). On Easter Saturday (March 26) Poles, typically children, bring brightly decorated baskets of food to church to have these blessed as well. These baskets traditionally contain a piece of sausage, bread, egg, poppy-seed cake, some salt, horseradish and a ram made out of dough - each of which has a symbolic meaning, of course. In addition ‘pisanki’ are included - painted boiled eggs which have been prepared in the lead-up to Easter by the whole family. Rezurekcja (Resurrection), a traditional mass with procession, is held Saturday night or Easter morning depending on parish tradition. On Easter Sunday (March 27), families gather together to celebrate with Easter breakfast from their Easter baskets, accompanied by żurek (Polish rye soup) and other traditional foods. Each person places a small piece of the blessed food on their plate before exchanging wishes with other members of the family. The symbolic dough ram is placed on the table to symbolise the resurrection of Christ. Things thankfully take on a more lighthearted air on Easter Monday (March 28). Known as ‘Śmingus Dyngus,’ the day is dominated by public water fights and everyone is given carte blanche to drench anyone they see with water. As a foreigner, you are not exempt from this practice, so move fast if you see someone armed with a water pistol or bucket and a grin. Although it’s never pleasant to have a jug of water thrown over your head, this is an improvement from the past when young people were beaten with sticks from Palm Sunday trees. Apparently either will bring you luck. 30 Poznań In Your Pocket

POD PRĘGIERZEM Some of the best buildings on Poznań’s Old Market Square are the old Merchant Houses and that’s exactly where you’ll find Pod Pręgierzem. For years this was Post Office Cafe, but a recent transformation has seen it aim towards those looking to grab a quick bite rather than a cup of coffee. The menu boasts plenty of breakfast options (from ‘continental’ to ‘full English’) and traditional Poznań meals like ham hock stuffed with mushrooms. Soft music, cheery staff, and walls decked out in photos paying homage to some of the city’s finest buildings make this a fine choice. There’s even a kid’s play area downstairs which kept us entertained while we were waiting for our soup.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel. (+48) 61 855 00 06, www.podpregierzem.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (16-39zł). T­6­S­W PROJEKT KUCHNIA Poznań’s culinary scene has come on leaps and bounds over the last couple of years and nowhere is it more evident than here. Located in the heart of the city’s bustling Stary Browar shopping centre, Projekt Kuchnia provides a sleek, sexy environment in which to enjoy some of the finest food around town. Oh, and did we mention that much of it is organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, or dairy-free? Though the menu doesn’t discriminate against carnivores by any stretch, those on a special diet will find their Shangri-La here, and their foodie friends will be glad they tagged along. The top quality extends from the breakfast menu to the wine list, and if you’re browsing around the Old Brewery, you can stop your search for the best place to eat - this is it.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99. Open 09:00 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (2970zł). T­U­G­S­W RESTAURACJA MOMO Taking over from the well-loved Muchos Patatos, Momo has a lot to live up to, but plays it off deftly. Pasta dishes, steaks, and salads are all on offer, but it’s the fresh seafood that really stands out with delightful and imaginative dishes created daily. The chef changes the first page of the menu each morning, and the friendly staff is more than willing to top up your wine glass. With plenty of rooms to choose from, we prefer the room to the right with the menu plastered on the wall, but for something a bit more relaxing head to the back where you can park yourself down in one of the colourful couches and let off some steam - a perfect stress-free zone.QD‑1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41 51 36. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (30-70zł). T­6­G­S­W RESTAURACJA MUGA Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just step through the glass door), MUGA has managed to serve up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great service and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals anything else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit interior makes for a warm and inviting stay. Though veering towards the higher-end of the scale, stop in for lunch (served Mon-Fri poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants 13:00 - 15:30) to get a starter, entree and coffee or water for 45zł. A perfect spot for courting couples, business deals and those looking to impress, first-daters should head to the far corner where intimacy is almost encouraged. QC‑3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www. restauracjamuga.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (55-90zł). T­G­W SPOT. Fashion, design and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late 19th century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services, including a fashion boutique, hairdresser, spa and photo studio, it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent restaurant, which should be your main motivation for visiting. Sporting a smart post-industrial swagger with monochrome colours, exposed bricks and retro kitsch decor, the atmosphere is inspired and the menu offers sophisticated European cuisine accented by exotic Asian flavours, including vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. With Belgian lagers, a large selection of wines and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best.QG‑5, ul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40, www.spot. poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (28-61zł). T­Y­U­G­S­W

We specialise in international cuisine without any boundaries - original imaginative dishes created daily. Above all we fell in love with fish and seafood. Seafood platter, pot of mussels, tuna steak and lobster are our specialities.

NEW STEAK&GRILL This Hotel Moderno restaurant is so spacious that they actually have a row of full-sized palm trees smack dab in the middle - enough to make you feel like you’re on some exotic getaway. Their specialty is steaks from Argentine beef grilled to perfection on a lava rock barbecue.QE‑5, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel. (+48) 61 664 66 02, www.hotelmoderno.pl. Open 12:30 - 24:00. (31-249zł). T­U­G­W NEW ŚWIŃSKIE USZY Named for their house specialty, pig ears, this locale revels in strange food combinations, painstakingly pairing them with matching cocktails. A club operates in the basement, staying open until 2 in the morning; the music of choice is house, nu-disco, and funk.QB‑3, ul. Piekary 12a, tel. (+48) 606 13 96 10. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (1429zł). T­G­W VINE BRIDGE The previous “smallest restaurant in Poland” has expanded due to popular demand, but they still serve intriguing dishes like flax seed pancakes and “meat in clay,” which are meant to echo the cuisine of centuries ago in Ostrówek, where the restaurant is located. You’ll also notice it’s one of your only eating options in the area around Ostrów Tumski. The brainchild of the Dark Restaurant folks, it’s unlikely you will leave unsatisfied, and the dishes themselves will be worthy of photographs.QI‑3, ul. Ostrówek 6, tel. (+48) 61 875 09 34, www.vinebridge.pl. Open 12:30 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (20-45zł). T­6­G­S­W facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

Address: Szewska 2, 61-760 Poznań Reservation: +48 501 415 136 MOMO love at first bite March - June 2016

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Restaurants WERANDA LUNCH & WINE Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the confluence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary Browar shopping centre, with an open two-story skylit space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining exists then Weranda has perfected it, with a dish of the day (27zl from 12:00-16:00) that can be anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the chef’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine, easily making shopping an afterthought.QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www.werandafamily.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (30-42zł). T­U­G­S­W

ITALIAN

Welcome in a real Italian restaurant

BAR A BOO Looking for Poznań’s best pizzeria? Look no further. To be honest, labelling this place a pizzeria is a bit of a cop out as the menu also offers up breakfasts, macaroni dishes, and salads, and the smart, elegant interior rivals some of the city’s better restaurants. A good mixture of wines to order by the glass or bottle and plenty of beers and spirits mean that if you’re coming here to line your stomach, the inevitable ul. Taczaka pub crawl may kick off later than you planned.QA-2, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 883 43 15, www.baraboo.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (10-30zł). T­U­G­ S­W FIGARO Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city. Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired out for those extra special occasions.QC‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafigaro. eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (28-80zł). T­G ­S ­W

Mollini Ristorante ul. Św. Marcin 34 61-806 Poznań Reservation: +48 61 85 25 333 www.mollini.pl 32 Poznań In Your Pocket

LUGANA Poznań has more than its fair share of Italian restaurants, but few command more confidence and sophistication than Lugana. Suitably located inside the modern City Park complex, Lugana features a smart, simple interior and lovely seasonal terrace, beset with wine glasses waiting to be filled with their signature Lugana vintage. Activate your taste buds with original dishes that not only delight the senses, but impress the eye with their outstanding presentation - octopus carpaccio, clam soup, ravioli with poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants beef and chestnuts, beef tartar with truffles, tiramisu, panna cotta... We were impressed, and so will be anyone you’re wise enough to make a reservation for here.Qul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 307 05 02, www. lugana.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (2174zł). T­U­G­S­W MILANO RISTORANTE An interior of polished woods, potted palms and crisp linen is the backdrop for one of the best meals in Poznań. The waiters are immaculate, the cooking creative. The prices can be steep, but you’re rewarded with excellent lamb, and seafood choices.QE‑1, Al. Wielkopolska 42, tel. (+48) 61 852 87 45, www.milano.poznan.pl. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 19:00. (18-130zł). T­G­S MOLLINI This charming Italian venture sets itself apart by letting the food speak for itself with simple dishes that will knock you out. We aren’t kidding about the simple - your pasta can be as basic as spaghetti noodles with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, and parmesan, and in your snobbier moments you might think it sounds like something you could easily do at home. You can’t. Even the straightforward grilled veggies seem elevated somehow. An Italian restaurant delightfully free of cliché, but full of flavour; stop by during lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00) for some savings on your bill. QB‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 33, www. mollini.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2050zł). T­G­S­W

RistoRante FigaRo ul. ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań tel. +48 61 856 01 89 www.restauracjafigaro.eu [email protected]

PIANO BAR RESTAURANT & CAFE Attached to the side of the Stary Browar shopping mall, Piano Bar rates as one of the top options in Poz. The background aesthetics are fantastic, with cream shades paired with moody lighting and striking art exhibitions. Although you’ll find all the expected Italian pasta and Mediterranean dishes, it’s the fish that tends to steal the show here, which is something of a boon in landlocked Poznań.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan. pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-140zł). T­Y­6­U­E­G­S­W

JAPANESE GOKO RESTAURACJA JAPOŃSKA Goko should shorten their name to Go: it’s good, and that’s all you need know. Since relocating to ul. Pasaż Apollo, Goko has become the one-and-only destination for traditional Japanese meals, serving fresh fish and sushi in stylish surroundings, supplemented by a fantastic garden. Can’t decide what to order? Discounts apply to various dishes and drinks depending on when you visit - ask the staff for recommendations, then sit back and enjoy Poznań from a slightly different view than you’d get from the main market square.QB‑3, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 61 639 06 39, www.goko.com.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-60zł). T­6­V­G­S­W facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

ul. wojskowa 4,

poznań (next to city park)

open: mon-sat 12-23, sun 12-22 phone +48 519 376 182, [email protected] www.kyokai.pl March - June 2016

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Restaurants

Korean-Japanese cuisine Circular sushi bar

y Happ

hour

12:00 - 17:00

All week!

sushi Buffet Eat all you want 60zł per person

KURO BY PANAMO The tendency in Poland is for a new cuisine to be launched and then a procession of new restaurants to open all serving pretty much the same ‘fashionable’ cuisine. Here Kuro have taken the cuisine of a few years ago - Sushi - and mixed it with the cuisine of the last year - Thai. The results to be fair are very, very good and the ul. Wodna location means you won’t have to go far to find it. Find both hot and cold Japanese dishes and some very tasty Thai in a handsome room with remarkably friendly people working there.QD‑2, ul. Wodna 8/9, tel. (+48) 61 887 04 30, www.kurosushi.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (25-50zł). T­G­S­W KYOKAI SUSHI BAR The City Park development just to the west of the centre (past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of Poznań’s best Japanese efforts. Laid out over two floors, sushi sets revolve around a circular bar, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in a series of converted red brick buildings, the surroundings look chic and sexy, as do the clientele. Definitely one to check out, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.Qul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-60zł). T­U­V­G­S­W

/polandinyourpocket ZINDO SUSHI KOREAN - JAPANESE RESTAURANT An expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations, Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be struggling to attract attention from the folks in Poznań. A lunchtime sushi buffet was the busiest we saw the place, and provides more of a bang-for-your-buck experience than the pricier dinner option. The Korean menu is a standout, and adventurous eaters can indulge in octopus, fried squid or raw fish with vegetables to test their mettle. More traditional options like kimchi are reliably well done. QD‑1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78, www. zindo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (30-70zł). T­V­G­S­W

JEWISH

FREE DELIVERY WITHIN 5 KM FOR ORDERS OVER 100 ZŁ

ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.pl reservation (61) 853-01-78 34 Poznań In Your Pocket

LUDWIKU DO RONDLA Poznań’s classic Jewish restaurant Cymes has morphed into Ludwiku do Rondla (Ludwik to the Pan, a way of saying “make my dinner!”), which means the menu is now a mix of traditional Polish cuisine as well as the consistent Jewish dishes (like herring in marinade and a Jewish caviar) that were the hallmark of Cymes. Note that you will have to stifle a giggle while paging through the English translations of the Jewish dishes as the poultry stomachs brewed in curry have been randomly translated as “goose cunt.” Yes, we snapped a picture too.QD‑2, ul. Woźna 2/3, tel. (+48) 61 851 66 38. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (14-32zł). T­G­S poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants POLISH BAZAR 1838 Set in the historic building that once housed (and will again someday, according to rumours) the Hotel Bazar, the name of this smart restaurant honours both the building and the year it was built. Looking far pricier from the outside than it actually is, the food scores well in the price to quality ratio, and is served by a friendly English-speaking staff. Along with imaginative interpretations of typical Polish dishes you’ll find pastas, salads and a variety of original dishes. Definitely a place to impress without buckling the credit card, though you may have to protect the plastic from the exclusive shops nearby.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 222 68 64, www.bazar1838.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (28-89zł). T­U­G­S­W CHŁOPSKIE JADŁO Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have no doubt eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national chain which offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new Poznań location nails the formula, and trademark touristapproved standards like various types of pierogi, hearty cutlets, and sour rye soup in bread are as good here as you’ll find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly modern, while retaining some folksy motifs, and a playground for kids makes this a good option for families. As is the case with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving extremely filled with a smile on your face and a willingness to come back.QA‑1, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 72 510 05 25, www. chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (10-60zł). T­U­G­S­W NEW LABIJA Burgers and bowling, anyone? This centrally-located alleyside restaurant serves up all the Americanized comfort food favorites you might be craving, like pizza, pasta, BBQ steaks, ribs, onion rings, mozzarella sticks, and crispy French fries, all in a modern and streamlined interior.QB/C‑2, ul. Święty Marcin 24 (Galeria MM), tel. (+48) 61 222 50 51, www.mkbowling.pl/menu-poznan/2282-menu. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15-25zł). T­U­G­W MŁYŃSKIE KOŁO Filled with dusty bottles and timber touches, the Mill Wheel is a signature Polish restaurant with a menu that takes its ingredients seriously; the fish are caught first thing in the morning, while the duck apparently comes from the adjacent lake. Tell them in advance and they’ll spit-roast a pig for you. Recommended.Qul. Browarna 37 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (30-70zł). T­6­U­G­S­W OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEM Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-year-old wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans, piles of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned out of facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

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Restaurants TYPICAL POLISH CUISINE - SLOW FOOD

A kitchen like at mama‘s with recipes like at Granny‘s

Poznań, ul Garbary 54 tel.: 061 851 99 70 [email protected] www.oberza.com.pl saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic atmosphere, and while the menu focuses on traditional Polish fare with mouth-watering renditions of classics such as żurek soup, ribs, duck, and pierogi, the philosophy of the kitchen is hardly the throwback that the interior suggests; all dishes can be prepared vegan, gluten-free, or to any other dietary needs if specified when ordering. Score a sweet deal with soup and an entree for only 15zł Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00. QD‑2, ul. Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851 99 70, www. oberza.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (22-69zł). T­6­U­G­S­W NEW OSKOMA Let Top Chef Poland finalist Adam Adamczak cook up a delicious meal for you (roe tartar with brioche? Saddle of lamb with oxtail stuffed cabbage?) in the understated interior of this Jeżyce eatery dedicated to the finest of fine dining.QE‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 44 21 65. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (30-80zł). T­G­W PRZY BAMBERCE A long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the complex of buildings at the centre of the town square. Step in and you’ll find stained glass panels, floral touches, and a strong European menu that includes several local dishes. The pierogi are excellent.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 99 17, www.bamberka.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (32-68zł). T­G­S­W 36 Poznań In Your Pocket

RACJA MIĘSA Bare brick walls, chalked-up menus and a general strippeddown approach seems to be all the rage for new eateries in Poznań these days - and that’s certainly the path Racja Mięsa have chosen to go down. But why change a winning formula? It’s basic, it’s minimal but the food’s decent enough (think local soups and steaks) and the staff are happy to talk you through the menu, which changes on a regular basis. The on-wall diagrams depicting the different parts of pigs and cows should be enough to get any avid meat eater excited. Yep, we like it.QD‑1, ul. Szewska 20, tel. (+48) 515 69 20 20. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (12-55zł). 6­U­G­S­W RATUSZOVA One of the longest established places in town and with good reason. Located right on the main square, Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method not found in many other Poznań restaurants. If the beautiful and unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics such as roast duck with apple, veal cheeks, czernina (duck blood) soup, pierogi and other Polish standards. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (19-89zł). T­6­G­S­W WARTO NAD WARTĄ Warto nad Wartą seems to have it bang on - a classy joint located plonk in the centre, but just far away enough to escape the hustle and bustle of the main market square. To simply label this as a Polish restaurant would be an injustice given its range of international dishes, and our main picks would be the duck and steak. The fine selection of desserts (and great selection of wines) coupled with a smart interior make this a fine starting point before hitting some of the city’s more upmarket bars. QC‑1, Al. K. Marcinkowskiego 27a, tel. (+48) 600 83 68 46, www.wartonadwarta.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (15-80zł). T­6­U­G­S­W WIEJSKIE JADŁO After hearing that Wiejskie Jadło had undergone a recent refurb and drafted up a new menu, we were tempted back to sample the results. We weren’t disappointed. It’s what you expect from a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff and big decent portions of hearty grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to go - they’re located just off the market square.QD‑2, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (17-53zł). T­6­U­G­S­W WSPÓLNY STÓŁ Dine with perfect strangers at the Common Table’s common table (or, for more antisocial parties, at one of the smaller ones). Serving classy takes on Polish cuisine, this welcoming, elegantly decorated lunch-and-dinner spot has a certain nice community feel.QI‑3, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 614 15 27 18. Open 13:00 - 21:00. (29-42zł). T­6­U­G­S­W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants YEŻYCE KUCHNIA Yeżyce Kuchnia offers the perfect opportunity to feel like “part of the scene” and mingle with Poznan’s young, local in-crowd. The cool common room/caff-style decor is enough to keep people returning, but combine that with an ever-changing top-draw menu and you’ll soon see why this place is one of the most talked about venues in town. Food-wise, it’s traditional Polish fare served up with a bit of imagination, but the desserts and cakes make a visit to Yeżyce Kuchnia worth it alone.Qul. Szamarzewskiego 17 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 663 05 06. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (15-40zł). T­6­G­ S­W

Traditional Polish Cuisine

SPANISH CZERWONA PAPRYKA A great place to kick-start your evening, there’s a distinct pre-party feel to Czerwona Papryka - from the huge black bull welcoming you out front to the lively buzz of chattering patrons and Spanish music found inside. The menu allows you the chance to relive those magical Mediterranean moments with a choice selection of tapas and other dishes to get you in the mood for the night ahead. As you’d imagine, there’s a decent selection of Spanish wine to work through as well, and the bubbly staff are only too willing to keep your glass full.QD‑2, Stary Rynek 49, tel. (+48) 61 855 04 13, www.czerwonapapryka.com.pl. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (20-75zł). 6­G­S­W

THAI PAD THAI One of the great things about Poznań is the fact that everything is within walking distance (or at most only a couple tram stops away). Pad Thai is one of those that requires a tram ticket (get off at ‘Poznań Plaza’), but this luxurious restaurant inside the Thai Spa centre makes the 3zł ticket seem meaningless. To break fast between beauty treatments chose from their enticing curries, fish dishes and sushi. A beautiful, relaxing interior and friendly staff make this place a winner.Qul. Drużbickiego 11 (Piątkowo), tel. (+48) 61 840 76 66, www.padthairestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (30-60zł). U­V­G­S­W THAI FAST WOK A little gem of a place if you fancy quick, simple and tasty Thai favourites at lunch special prices, Fast Wok was recently enlarged to accommodate more traffic. Found through an archway leading from ul. Ratajczaka, Fast Wok, while having a Pole in the open kitchen, does seem to have got the basics of this ethnic dish right, something which isn’t a given in Poland. Nasi Goreng, red and green curry and chicken in black bean sauce are a few of the dishes on the concise menu.QB‑2, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 508 52 89 89, www.fastwok.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (18-28zł). V­G­S facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

Traditional beef roulade served with black lentils and beetroot puree

Where King Jan II Kazimierz Waza resided in 1657-1658 you may savour authentic traditional Polish cuisine and dishes of an international flavour expertly prepared by our highly experienced Chef. Four different areas are available for our Guests: Restaurant, Cafe, Bar & Summer Garden

Traditional polish ginger cake with vanilla ice - creams

WINNER

RATUSZOVA RESTAURANT STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ WWW.RATUSZOVA.PL +48 618 510 513

March - June 2016

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Restaurants

Duck with dumplings and red cabbage

WHY THAI FOOD & WINE Why Thai, why not? This fresh, cool and comfortable modern restaurant refuses to bow down to the standard ‘silk road’ school of Asian interior design. An absolute insistence on using fresh ingredients, unpolluted by MSG or other flavour enhancing poisons, guarantees the dishes have a light and natural taste. The well-conceived menu is neither overly long nor cryptically complicated. We rate the beef strips with tamarind sauce, but for something a little different give the house speciality of duck and pineapple red curry a go. If you’re particularly nosy and need to know what the Thai cooks are up to try to be seated in the smaller area of the restaurant with its glass-fronted view into the kitchen.QD‑1, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. (+48) 61 818 29 11, www.whythai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (18-40zł). T­6­U­V­S­W

UKRAINIAN

Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from the Franciszkańska street) tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl

DARK RESTAURANT “Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance your other senses, which makes for a more exciting dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with your hands, because utensils are completely useless without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight in making you guess what you ate.QD‑2, ul. Garbary 48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl. Open 16:00 - 21:30, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. (80-120zł). 6­G­W 38 Poznań In Your Pocket

FAJNA UKRAJNA We wholeheartedly agree with this restaurant’s name: Ukraine is cool. But - perhaps due to the similarities to typical Polish cuisine - Ukrainian restaurants are disappointingly rare around these parts. Luckily, there’s a new player on the Poznań gastro scene, and they offer delicious, highquality traditional grub in hip, neo-folksy surroundings, which never once slide into kitsch, despite costumed wait staff. Ukrainian, Polish, Russian, Belarusian (and presumably English) are all spoken here.QG‑4, ul. Kwiatowa 2, tel. (+48) 570 42 97 71, www.fajnaukrajna.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-53zł). T­G­S­W

VEGETARIAN GREEN WAY A chain of budget vegetarian restaurants that are a Polish success story. Often packed with students who know a good deal when they see one, find a well prepared and generous range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, including excellent pancakes and juices. Also at ul. Gwarna 1 (A-2) and ul. Zeylanda 3 (E-3).QB‑1, ul. 23 Lutego 11, tel. (+48) 61 852 52 41, www.greenway.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (8-19zł). T­6­G­ S JE SUS On a street better known for boozy student chaos and greasy fast food, Je Sus flips the script(ure) on ul. Taczaka by offering healthy, strictly vegan eats. Make what you will of the subtle, ironic iconography related to Poland’s favourite bearded messiah, and the slightly slapdash interior of paint-splattered stepladders, wiry plants and mismatching furniture, this is hipster heaven and vegan nirvana. The menu changes constantly to stay fresh and seasonal, and features non-dairy plant-powered takes on pizza, breakfast omelettes, spring rolls, and more - most of it prepared by Ewelina, the owner, and all of it divine. Like the menu, there are no strictly kept opening hours, so god speed and good luck. Closed on Mondays!QB‑3, ul. Taczaka 22, tel. (+48) 608 52 80 33. (10-20zł). T­6­G­S­W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants KWADRAT VEGAN BISTRO & CAFE Poznań might be a bit short on vegetarian and vegan options, but this little place will do in a pinch. Whereas the interior is perhaps somewhat too literally green for our liking, the food is reasonably priced and reasonably tasty, with spices that are right on (no small feat around these parts). The menu offers a selection of soups, Thai and Indian dishes, meatless Polish classics, and other imaginative vegan creations, as well as craft beer.QD‑2, ul. Woźna 18, tel. (+48) 609 31 47 17. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (12-24zł). T­6­G­W NEW MISA LISA Small, bright, and completely vegan, Misa Lisa (The Fox’s Bowl) serves elaborate daily specials full of vegetables, fruits, and nuts. You can count on two dishes each each day - not a lot, but hardly a shock for vegetarians dining in most places - plus desserts, tea, and coffee.QG‑5, ul. Górna Wilda 71, tel. (+48) 731 13 35 08. Open 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. (18-22zł). 6­G­S PRACOWNIA There was a time back when non-carnivore tourists had to make do with either cheese-filled pierogi, boiled cabbage, or potatoes. But the times, they are certainly a-changing. This little restaurant sets the standards high and the garden, with its perfect mix of candles and plants, makes for the perfect romantic setting. In a country not known for its love of spicy cuisine, the ‘hot Thai red curry’ goes down very well, and the samosa starters are a great way to get you prepared for your main dish. Big thumbs up all round. QD‑2, ul. Woźna 17, tel. (+48) 61 639 35 95. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (16-32zł). T­6­G­S­W NEW TRAMWAJARZ The People’s Republic of Poland meets 2016 hipsterdom in the city’s most unlikely vegan spot. Located in the pre-war Tram Driver’s House, commissioned by the Poznań Tramway Company in the 1920s and turned into a cultural centre in recent years, this lunch/dinner/hang-out place offers healthy, filling meals and twists on unfussy commie-era grub (such as home-made bread with vegan lard, which is much more delicious than it sounds). Choose between the adapted reception/cloakroom, rocking decor virtually untouched since days when a delivery of toilet paper was considered major news, and a more modern corner adorned with colorful art.QE‑3, ul. Słowackiego 19/21, tel. (+48) 793 63 48 36. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 14:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (8-22zł). T­6­G­S­W

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March - June 2016

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Cafés

Start your day at Petit Paris Boulangerie in Stary Browar.

NEW ANGIELKA CAFE AND LUNCH Sweet and proper like an older British lady’s home, Angielka is the type of place where you’d sip your five o’clock tea out of porcelain, pinky extended. Eats can be found here as well - crepes, pastas, salads, and desserts - and the decor was lovingly put together by a vintage furniture enthusiast, with the focal point on an old-fashioned stove called an Englishwoman (Angielka) in the local dialect.QD‑1, ul. Żydowska 33, tel. (+48) 601 47 73 82, www.angielka.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. T­6­U­G­ S­W NEW CAFE STRAGAN Obnoxious in principle, perfectly warm and inviting in actuality: Stragan adheres to some stringent self-imposed rules, including a non-negotiable noamericano policy (they also refuse to make scrambled eggs). Instead, they’re committed to serving top-notch alternatively-brewed coffee, using all the new-fangled (or just currently trendy) methods like drip-brewing, aeropress, Chemex, and siphon; boxes of equipment are displayed on the back wall and available for sale, as are coffee beans. The dedication shows: their coffee was among the best we’ve tasted, so give it a go if you’re a caffeine enthusiast. Light breakfast is served as well. QB‑2, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31. Open 08:00 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. T­6­U­ G­S­W 40 Poznań In Your Pocket

COCORICO Couples wallow under starlight in a backyard that’s potted with plants and almost grotto-like in magic (they’ve even won an award for the space, which is closed in winter). There’s no doubt about it, it’s a garden of memories. If the sun falls out of the sky seek shelter inside where a topsy-turvy interior comes sprinkled with chintz. Recently expanded to include a restaurant in an adjacent room. QD‑2, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 29, www. cocorico.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. T­6­U­X­S­W NEW DA VINCI CAFFE Filled to the brim with date-night couples and gossiping girlfriends during the evenings, this is one of the most popular spots to have a glass of wine or a cup of fancy tea by candlelight. The heavily da-Vinci-inspired decor (sketches of elaborate contraptions, parchment-style walls) is clever, but slides into tacky here and there.QB‑2, Pl. Wolności 10, tel. (+48) 502 48 44 74. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 6­G­S­W NEW KULKA CAFE On the more expensive side and rather far from the center (but close to the train station), this colorful and tasteful industrial chic restaurant-cafe appears to be a popular place for dates and business meet-ups. The menu changes regularly and while the portion sizes are modest, the food is prepared with plenty of skill and gusto.QE/F‑4, ul. Towarowa 41/210, tel. (+48) 61 226 28 02, www.kulkacafe.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (16-34zł). T­G­S­W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Cafés PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A prime location on the ground floor of Poznan’s bustling Stary Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/boulangerie is never short of customers looking to take a break from their latest spending spree. The interior is smart but informal, and the friendly staff busy themselves serving up everything from fresh coffees and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries and fresh French bread. For those looking for something a little more substantial there’s an excellent breakfast selection, daily soups, and a range of lunches to line your stomach before sampling one of their wines. Bon appétit!QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. U­G­S­W NEW PIECE OF CAKE While the name might invoke a pink-frosting-and-lace aesthetic, Piece of Cake will definitely not give you diabetes. No doubt the coziest place on ul. Żydowska, this cafe has an amazing retrohomey vibe that will make you feel like digging out an old photo album and maybe putting on a vinyl. With menus laboriously types out on a vintage typewriter (which is sometimes in use as you’re sipping your coffee) and a smattering of art supplies and old books, the comfy interior might entice you to stay a bit longer for a small veggie-burger or grilled-sandwich lunch (the tomato jam is the bomb, by the way).QD-1, ul. Żydowska 29. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. POD LAMPIONAMI Gorgeous lantern-filled tea house that really knows its herbal infusions well. If you’re just not a tea person (but enjoy red Chinese lanterns), coffee is available too, and so is a yummy selection of cakes and light meals. Perfect for relaxing on a blustery day.QD‑2, ul. Woźna 19/20, tel. (+48) 61 221 28 77, www.podlampionami.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. G­S­W NEW POD NOSEM This small and cute cafe fits in just right with the rest of ul. Żydowska, known for its coffee and cake establishments. An ever-changing menu of breakfast, lunch, and dinner options is a great reason to stay longer, and vegan options are available. During warm weather you can lounge outside on a deck chair, John Lemon in hand.QD‑1, ul. Żydowska 35a, tel. (+48) 609 44 77 98, www.podnosem.eu. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. T­6­G­S­W PTASIE RADIO Named after “The Bird Radio”, a famous children’s poem by Julian Tuwim, this rustic cafe really commits to the theme with subtle murals, vintage bird cages, and bird-shaped figurines. The large selection of unique, seasonal hot and cold drinks (lemonades, hot chocolates, smoothies, coffees, and the like) might be the primary draw, but it’s not all - Ptasie Radio also offers breakfasts, lunches, and delicious chocolate cake.QA‑2, ul. Kościuszki 74, tel. (+48) 61 853 64 51, www.ptasieradio. pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. T­6­S­W facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

BREAKFAST BROVARIA An open buffet costing 38zł in one of Poznan’s top locations, right on the square.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 7374 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www. brovaria.pl. Breakfast served 07:00 - 10:00. (38zł). T­G­S­W FUSION RESTAURANT The Sheraton Sunday Brunch is one of the best reasons to get out of bed. Adults pay 130zl (half price kids between 6-12, free for anyone younger), which covers a lavish buffet spread and a free flow of booze. Popular with high rolling Poles and expats, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better use for Sunday afternoon.QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.fusion-poznan.pl. Brunch served Sun 13:00 - 17:00. T­U­G­S­W PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A perfect breakfast option, where the most important meal of the day is served all day. Choose from French classics like croque madame, crepes, croissant sandwiches, tartines and more - all made from authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh bread that is baked on-site.QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (10-20zł). U­G­S­W NEW PORANNIK Getting a decent breakfast on the town has just gotten easier with the opening of this cheerful and healthconscious place. Serving a large selection of options including oatmeal, granola, grilled sandwiches, and eggs, Porannik is one of our favorite spots to start the day. They stay open for lunch, so feel free to drop in during the afternoon, as well.QB‑1, ul. 23 lutego 9, tel. (+48) 531 05 14 11, www.porannik.com.pl/. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (615zł). T­6­G­S­W PROJEKT KUCHNIA Combine this with Petit Paris and apparently Stary Browar is the place in Poznań to start the day. Breakfast options here are plentiful, healthy and eco-minded in terms of the ingredients - eggs come from free range chickens, rice, almond and soy milk are available, as is fresh-squeezed orange juice. Choose from omelettes, scrambled eggs, yoghurt with granola, porridge, toast with goat cheese and ricotta, and more, including some vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free options.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99. Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. (15-20zł). T­U­G­S­W March - June 2016

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Cafés

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2014-04-09 12:52:07

TACZAKA 20 The owners of the popular Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice bar have opened an equally cool (if not cooler) café upstairs, drawing the same artsy crowd during daylight hours when they’re in need of coffee and sandwiches. The interior features one wall covered in stray pieces of wood (more intriguing than it sounds, we promise), the menu is a simple array of salads, pastas, and snacks like hummus, while the true standout is their minimal beer selection, featuring some local microbrews. A low-key winner.QB‑3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 509 82 54 45. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 6­G­S­W UN POT You’d think utilizing all the stereotypically hip-n-cool paraphernalia of modern-day hipster locales - like wooden pallets, whitewashed brick, and mason jars (hence the name) - would turn this place into one big fat (cool) cliche, but the rustic decor is absolutely fresh, cozy, and pretty darn unique. With gentle mood music and an all-around calming ambience, this is the perfect place to eat a light breakfast, chat over coffee, or try out one of the “1001” flavors of beer, like cotton candy, cucumber, or pistachio.QC‑2, ul. Sieroca 5/6, tel. (+48) 601 56 72 27. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. G­S­W ZEMSTA ANARCHIST BOOKSHOP & CLUB Get to know the Anarchists - a group that is perhaps more bookish, organised, and vegan than you imagined. As far from a shady, rambunctious squat as you can get, at first glance this place might look like an ordinary (vegan) lunch bar, cafe, and bookstore well-stocked with high-quality journalism and travel writing, but walk up to the counter and you will find pamphlets attempting to convince casual picker-uppers that in their heart of hearts they’re anarchists too. Strike up a conversation with one of the patrons or pop in for an anarchist event to better appreciate what an unlikely outlet this movement has found here.QA‑2, ul. Fredry 5/3a, tel. (+48) 61 823 25 63, www.zemsta.org. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. (10-16zł). 6­N­G­S­W

Polish cRaFT & ReGional BReweRies draught beers and bottles ul. Żydowska 27, Poznań /chmielnik 42 Poznań In Your Pocket

ZIELONA WERANDA Not the easiest place to find despite being only a stone’s throw from the square, which makes its discovery (head into what looks like a shop to find it tucked away at the back) even more of a pleasant surprise. Clearly a labour of love as reflected by beautiful paper decorations set against the mismatch of wooden furnishings, exposed brick, and copious shrubbery. Spread over a number of small rooms, Zielona Weranda is one of our favourite lunch spots with a tasty, well-prepared range of soups, salads, sandwiches and snacks. The tea, coffee, and cake options are so encyclopaedic, the harder aspect of spending time here is deciding what to have.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 32 90, www.werandafamily.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 23:00. 6­U­G­S poznan.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Relaxing evening at Chmielnik (p. 45)

Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego (B‑1) and ul. Taczaka (B‑3) both of which draw students in droves. If you don’t see it listed here, visit our website - poznan.inyourpocket. com - for reviews of almost every place in town, and the opportunity to leave your comments about all of them. Below are a few suggestions depending on what you might be looking for:

LADS If you need to catch the match, Poz has some rather classy sports bars in Cooliozum and the Sheraton’s Someplace Else. Ministerstwo Browaru emphasises plenty of obscure beers (including their own) for connoisseurs, while Brovaria has excellent lagers brewed right on-site. Keep the night going in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa, a cheap late-night eatery on the Rynek that will help you offset your hangover with piles of white sausage and pickled herring; it’s also a great place to meet the locals.

SPLURGE The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Blow Up 50 50, which is conveniently situated close to one of the most exclusive danceterias in town - SQ. Look the part if you want to be accepted into either. If you don’t want snooty, you can easily run up your tab sipping choice monastic ales at Kriek Belgium Pub & Cafe, while Piano Bar mixes luxury drinks and atmosphere for a swanky well-rounded experience.

COUPLES Another vote for Blow Up 50 50, the best destination for seductive cocktails. If it’s entertainment you’re after check out Blue Note Jazz Club, which attracts great international performers to serenade your better half. Basilium does an excellent job of combining cocktails with cosy spaces as well, or make it a fine bottle of red in Casa De Vinos (see Wine Bars, p.48).

SQUARE With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be overwhelming, but without doubt the most popular place is Brovaria, which regularly sees people queuing for tables in order to enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course it’s impossible not to mention Pacha here - the legendary Ibiza club which has brought its international cred and celebrity crowds to Poz; good luck getting in. For the plebs, it’s the ever-popular Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa, of course. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

ALTERNATIVE Brave the dark basement of Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice - an experimental hangout that the locals love for the alternative music and atmosphere, or check out the plywood and graffiti art stylings of Mrowisko. Ambitious hipsters should certainly seek out the artsy cultural collective known as OFF Garbary (p.48). Craft beer is all the rage in PL these days, and Poz has hopheads well-served with Basilium, Chmielnik and Kriek. March - June 2016

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Nightlife SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

N Credit cards not accepted

6 Animal friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking room available

W Wi-fi connection

BARS & PUBS BASILIUM A smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek, and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened beer bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laidback atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself in one of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an empty wooden barrel is the vast selection of beer on offer. Whilst there are a few on draught, it’s the rows and rows of bottles on the shelves that will have you gawping and unsure quite where to start. With over 150 brews, this is one of the best craft beer bars in Poz. In addition to this, there’s a nice selection of snacks.QD‑2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. 6­U­G­W

TACZAKA STREET The popular concept of the ‘pub crawl’ hasn’t quite taken off locally in PL. Generally speaking, Poles prefer to find themselves a decent bar, park their butt for the night and let the alcohol do the rest. Not a bad idea, but don’t let yourself fall too far into that trap when visiting Poznań - this city has made a name for itself when it comes to nightlife, and is simply too full of fine boozers to limit yourself to just a few. As an alternative to the almost boundless drinking opportunities on the main square, more adventurous visitors may want to check out Ulica Taczaka (A/B-3), where you can approach local alcohol culture in much the same manner as you might sightseeing - namely by attempting to absorb as much of it as you can as efficiently as possible in the short time that you’re here. Located just five minutes from the market square, Taczaka is known as the ‘high street’ of Poznań’s down-at-heel ‘student ghetto,’ and is densely packed with divey proto-Polish cellar pubs, the likes of which it’s hardly worth the energy to differentiate between here all feature the same trusty formula for good times: cheap beer, familiar music, unbashful boozed-up students, and foreign boys practicing pigeon Polish on the local birds. It’s certainly not for everyone, but if that sounds like your society, start at Taczaka’s top end (off ul. Ratajczaka, B-3) and get down on all fours for a crawl down one of Poznań’s most prodigious nightlife expressways. 44 Poznań In Your Pocket

BLOW UP HALL 5050 Woah, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s the Blow Up. The bar is the final word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with your head, as do the cocktails, truly the work of a scientific hand. As for the bar itself, that’s a multi-angled, zinc plated masterpiece that has no rival, and features a Davidoff Lounge where you can buy cigars. It’s not often we attach the words unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit. QG‑4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 91, www. blowuphall5050.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 01:00. U­X­W BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it. Don’t let that discourage you, however, this is a legendary venue that has hosted some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazz. Do check their website for what’s cooking first - this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip-hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle, and if there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open. QA‑1, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, www. bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 1 hour before event; check website. E­G BROVARIA Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s certainly become established as the main expat haunt since the demise of Dom Vikingow. Yet while it feels an ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the best: enjoy it.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00 01:00. G­W BROWAR PUB Set inside the old malt house (Słodownia) of the former Brewery Huggerów which has now become the vast Stary Browar mall, Browar Pub attracts a monied and grown-up crowd you’re unlikely to see filling clubs around Poznań’s main square. The arched brick ceilings add architectural interest, though all eyes are typically focused on the dance floor. Theme nights are popular here on weeknights, with weekends devoted to hits from 70s through to the present day, which might explain the classier crowd. Our only complaint is that Browar’s location deep inside the mall can make it tough to spot from outside, but follow the dolled up crowd up the outside stairs on Półwiejska as it’s worth the effort.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.slodownia. com. Open 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Y­E­G poznan.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife CHMIELNIK One of the best bars on ul. Żydowska, Chmielnik sports a smart wood and stone interior, on-site brewing tanks and spot-on selection of microbrews to pull in a trendy 20-something crowd. The seasonal garden out back is a summer staple, and it has recently expanded, along with the entire locale (which now has a new kitchen on the premises). Hands down, this is one of our favourite places for lazy get-togethers that go late into the night.QD‑1, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open 14:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. 6­G­W COOLIOZUM There’s a lot to say about Cooliozum, and we might as well begin with the best bit - yip, these guys have Sky Sports, a move which puts them a league above every wannabe sports bar in town. Other bonuses include around 120 beers, as well as a few poker tables which seem to have a steady flow of custom. What’s more, this isn’t the dark, divey sports bar you may be used too, rather a large modern space involving ice white sofas and a blue-lit bar. We were a little sceptical at the beginning but this place is unquestionably Poznań’s best sports bar. Head through the archway at no. 45 and find it down some stairs on your left. QB‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 45, tel. (+48) 601 68 66 92, www. cooliozum.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00. W

Stylish and spacious pub with a casual atmosphere. A perfect place to watch your favorite sport events, have fun or simply enjoy your friends’ company. The best Tex-Mex menu in Poznan. Delicious burgers & steaks Original drinks and cocktails. Sports events on large screen and LCD TVs. 2 Glasses are Better than 1 offer (every weekend)

Where’s the party? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket DUBLINER The most venerable of the city’s three Irish pubs, the Dubliner is on an upswing of late with daily live music acts at 21:30 and a Mon-Fri 13:00-18:00 (plus all-day Sunday) special that knocks 50% off the food prices. Tucked on the ground floor of the city’s landmark Imperial Castle, this timber-cut pub feels like a secret clubhouse complemented with stained glass windows. The prices for Guinness or one of the many Irish whiskeys keep the students away - not a bad thing in our book. Squeeze onto one of the wooden benches and face the stage for a guaranteed good time.QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance from Al. Niepodległości), tel. (+48) 61 851 01 69, www.dubliner. com.pl. Open 13:00 - 03:00. E­W FALSTART Formerly known as BSA Sports Pub, this bar is something of a Poznań institution amongst sports fans and hardcore boozers alike. It’s a no-frills affair with framed shirts, old tennis rackets and a shedload of TVs blasting out every sport from boxing to NBA to footy from around the globe. Above the bar is a list of the 100-some different shots on offer - including ‘King Kong’, ‘Highway to Hell’ and the stickily-named ‘Cumshot’ - to bring on the afterglow. A welcome change from the soulless glam and glitz sports bars that seem to be all the rage these days.QC‑3, ul. Długa 11, tel. (+48) 503 77 73 03. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. N­G­W facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

SOMEPLACE ELSE (Sheraton Poznan Hotel) ul. Bukowska 3/9, Poznan phone 61 655 2000 [email protected] www.someplace-else.pl facebook.com/someplace.else.poznan

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Nightlife POLISH VODKA

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below. WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice. KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ 46 Poznań In Your Pocket

KAWIARNIA NOCNA KISIELICE Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice (formerly just Kisielice) has somehow always managed to divide opinion and its refurb will continue to do just that. Gone are the knackered old sofas, replaced instead by smart new chairs, a predominantly dark decor and an extremely low bar which might take the regulars a little while to get used to. The K-Hole has always been one of the city’s more experimental bars when it comes to music policy (think hardcore punk to electronica to African tribal chanting) and if our recent trip is anything to go by, little here has changed. Definitely original and worth a look.QB‑3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 799 17 44 14, www.kisielice.com. Open 20:00 - 04:00, Thu 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. B­X­W KRIEK BELGIAN PUB & CAFE If ever we were pushed to name a favourite bar in Poznań, this place would be a first impulse. Setting it apart is a collection of 170 Belgian beers, admirably promoted by Sławek, a gregarious giant whose principal aim is to spread the good gospel of lager. Even better, they now also serve food, including the only pulled pork sandwich in Poz. Permanently cast in shadow, Kriek is a sure-fire winner, and a hefty bill is as expected as the heavy head that follows. Highly recommended.QD‑2, ul. Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 508 26 75 70. Open 13:00 - 02:00, Fri 13:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. U­G­W MINISTERSTWO BROWARU One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers, find AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches and great beer. If you’re up before it’s afternoon, you’ll find the equally awesome Minister Cafe upstairs.QB‑2, ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 16:00 - 02:00. G­W NEW MIŚ GASTRO BAR Popular with the late-night crowd and located right on the main square, Miś (Teddy Bear) is a good place to get increasingly more drunk with your mates and maybe go through a couple meaty snacks. Outside seating is available during the warmer months.QD‑2, Stary Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 792 20 06 66. Open 13:00 - 05:00. G MROWISKO Known in local circles as ‘Mr. Whisky’ (due to its slightly confusing sign), this place has ‘hipster’ written all over it, from its graffiti-laden design to its shopping trolley full of second-hand books and board games. And that’s before you even sample some of the off-beat beers on offer. Cheap, cheerful and drawing a lively mix of students and foreigners, this place has quickly made its mark on the Poznań scene.QD‑1, ul. Szewska 20A, tel. (+48) 690 22 59 42, www.mrowiskopoznan.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. G­W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife PIANO BAR The perfect spot to take clients. A clean cream interior punctuated by some well chosen local art. The mobile drinks cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emergency surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are decked out suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. U­E­G­W PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA The newspapered interior and nostalgic communistera concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of locations all over the country (including a second in Poz at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap grub like pickled herring and cold pork in jelly to soak up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of characters who are happy to spill out their life story for the price of a 4zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome alternative to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and snobby bars. Karaoke nights take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays 20:00-02:00.QC‑1, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791 85 95 55. Open 09:00 - 05:00, Fri 09:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. U­N­G­W SHISHA BEIRUT It’s got mood lighting, throw pillows, air-con, Maroon 5 droning from the hi-fi speakers, and over sixty shisha pipes, with available flavours ranging from blue guava to icy apple to bubble gum; not sure what else you’d need in a locale of this type. Relaxing and with an expected Near Eastern touch, this is a good place to simply kick back with your mates.QC‑2, ul. Wrocławska 2, tel. (+48) 504 26 56 86, www.shishabeirut.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Shisha for one table costs 30zł. G­W SOMEPLACE ELSE SPE is a natural born winner - few places are better geared to meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease, chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9 TVs. American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled with rock pics, as well as more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness.QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 17:00 00:30, Sun 17:00 - 23:30. Y­U­G­W WHISKY BAR 88 Steal yourself away to the darkened surroundings of Whisky Bar in City Park where you will find the ideal conditions to sit back and enjoy one of well over 500 different types of the sainted liquid. Whether you’re looking for whiskey, whisky or whatever it is in Japanese you will not be disappointed facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

KONTENERART One of Poznań’s most original spots, the seasonal KontenerART occupies a stretch of grass along the Warta River that makes finding the unusual venue feel like a drink-worthy achievement. Head down Ewangelicka (H-3) toward the Warta River and you may hear the clamouring of KontenerART before you see it. It’s worth the trouble after all, where else can you drink in a stack of shipping containers surrounded by an artificial beach and “art” installations that stretch the definition of the word? One container operates as a stage, one as a bar, and the rest are filled with art projects that are more confusing than creative. Deck chairs and wooden pallets are the seating of choice at this hipster oasis, where no one is without a Grolsch and a pair of skinny jeans. Climb the stairs for a second-story seat that offers a view of the river and the ideal perch for people-watching. A welcome and unique summer alternative to pubs and clubs in the Old Town.QI‑4, ul. Ewangelicka (on the Warta between Chrobrego and Focha bridges), www.kontenerart.pl. Open April 29th to August 31st, 10:00 - 24:00. During the off-season they open only for special events; check their facebook for more information. 6­E­G­B­W March - June 2016

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Nightlife OFF GARBARY

with the elegantly backlit display cases holding some wonderful choices including some 25-year old single malts. Comfortable chairs and a modern take on an ‘open-fire’ complete the picture.QE‑4, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26a (City Park Hotel & Residence), tel. (+48) 888 32 18 88, www. whiskybar88.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00. U­I­E­X­W

WINE BARS

Is that Twoja Stara?

Located around the courtyard of a former furniture warehouse, OFF Garbary is a culture collective boasting 1600m of space that has been divvied amongst Poznań’s creatives and devoted to art, culture and cuisine. On hand are shops, galleries, cafes, food trucks, bars and even a hairdresser, and the area is host to frequent workshops, concerts and other events (find specifics at their FB page: /garbaryoff ). While during the day there’s almost a family vibe, after dark this is one of the most happening places in town - a huge beer garden with legendary weekend DJ parties. Opening hours vary, but most places are open from 12:00, with the bars opening later and staying open all night. To find it look for the umbrellas overhead. LAS During its short tenure since opening, LAS has established itself as Poz’s best live music venue by far, with gigs ranging from Colombian free jazz to German electronica to French hardcore. With a spit and sawdust warehouse feel, the bar staff will happily ply you with Czech beer as you get down and dirty with the locals. Perhaps the best thing to come out of Poznań since a pint of Lech Pils, check their FB page to see what’s on.QD‑1, ul. Małe Garbary 7a, tel. (+48) 535 79 22 22. Open during concerts only and Fri, Sat 20:00 05:00. N­G TWOJA STARA Featuring a huge garden and outdoor bar, inside this OFF Garbary dive bar it’s all knackered sofas, chandeliers, and a wall of VHS videos. While a more relaxed vibe prevails during the week, come the weekend the music gets pumped up and the dance floor fills out with plenty of student totty and sexy locals ready to shake off the hang-ups of the working week. One minute it’s a quiet pint at the bar discussing the first Doors album, the next you’re up, unbuckled and barefooted, forgetting where you’ve left your wallet. Poznań doesn’t get more real and dirty than this.QD‑1, ul. Małe Garbary 7a, tel. (+48) 786 17 50 66. Open 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. X­W 48 Poznań In Your Pocket

CASA DE VINOS Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display before offering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your final choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect little place to sample some of the finest wines from around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle or three to take back home. QC‑3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www. casadevinos.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. G­W

CLUBS CUBA LIBRE Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The Mondaynight dance challenges, Fiesta Latino Fridays, and Disco Latino Saturdays all prove seriously popular.QC‑2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 21:00 05:00, Mon, Tue 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. E­X­W

CZARNA OWCA A local institution. Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar, downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally draw reputable DJ’s and a crowd hell-bent on tipping lots of booze down their gobholes.QC‑2, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel. (+48) 690 06 50 19. Open 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Sun. B­X­W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife CZEKOLADA Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a disservice, this is the final word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you’d be a fool to turn up looking like anything less than a celebrity.QC‑2, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 665 55 08 91, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open Thu - Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. X­W

youtube.com/inyourpocket PACHA Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe - validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław and Berlin? Time will tell...QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 519 30 02 60, www.pachapoznan.com. Open ThuSat only 22:00 - 05:00. X­W SQ Dance with the fittest and the hippest in SQ, by far the most envied dance space in town. Silly haircuts and expensive wardrobes abound here, and they’re here for the music not the design - DJs arrive from all across Poland to play here, sometimes even further. The interior isn’t all that, but the nights are legend, and you’ll find no better place to puff the chest out and behave like a big time Bertie.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663 78 65 47, www.sqklub.pl. Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. E­X

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT DEEP GO GO Head through the door, make your way down the steps and prepare to feast your eyes on some of the city’s top talent. Unlike some clubs of its ilk, Deep Go Go caters for both stag and hen parties, with a number of setprice options on offer depending on both budget and number of guests. The modern interiors look as good as the ladies, and as we’ve learned first-hand, anyone searching for an evening of spicy adult entertainment will not leave the club disappointed; check their faceboook for more details and enjoy.QC‑2, ul. Wrocławska 5 (entrance from ul. Kozia), tel. (+48) 531 39 36 36. Open 20:00 - 05:00. X­W facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

POZNAŃ Wrocławska 5 street entrance from the street Kozia

Contact:

Phone: +48 785 559 428 +48 531 393 636 E-mail: [email protected] www.deep-gogo.pl /NightClubDEEP

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The Old Town Hall

Poznań Sightseeing Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and historical monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of architectural styles and historical monuments, waiting to be explored…

Essential Poznań With a deep and typically complex history, Poznań is rife with historical monuments and has much to offer those who enjoy outstanding architecture and diverse cultural attractions. While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to chance. Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its main square, the glorious Stary Rynek (p.52). Taking centre stage is the Old Town Hall (p.53), once renowned as the most beautiful building north of the Alps. Today it is home to the Historical Museum of Poznań (p.56) as well as a pair of mechanical goats who emerge at noon to the delight of the sightseers gathered below. Of course there’s more to the Rynek than just the Town Hall, and visitors with plenty of time will enjoy investigating the other museums that line the perimeter of the square, including impressive Archeological Museum (p.56), the brutal Wielkopolska Military Museum (p.59), and the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (p.66) - chronicling the 1918 Uprising which culminated in Poznań switching from German to Polish hands. Poznań also boasts two castles. First up is the Royal Castle (p.54), located just west of the Rynek, which was the seat of the first Polish kings; neglected for decades, the castle is currently being returned to its pride of place and will be open to the public sometime in 2016. Further west is the Imperial Castle (p.55), built as the residence of Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Today the chambers and cellars of this fearsome complex house numerous restaurants and bars, as well as the 1956 Uprising Museum (p.67). To avoid churches in Poznań would take a serious case of river blindness. The gem of the Old Town is the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.53), which boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, as well as a flamboyant pink facade. The most important place of worship in Poznań, however, is the Poznań Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski (p.61) with its twin towers

Morning sun on the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus Photo by Zbigniew Ratajczak; courtesy of City of Poznań

and surrounding chapels. This site is connected not only with the founding of the city of Poznań, but with the very birth of the Polish nation - a story which is now told in all its glory at the outstanding Porta Posnania (p.60). This modern complex in Sródka is now the mandatory starting point for exploring Ostrów Tumski - Poznań’s glorious ‘Cathedral Island.’ Once you’ve finished strolling the Old Town, make sure you have the better part of a day to enjoy the medieval ambience and relative tranquillity of Ostrów Tumski. Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green spaces. Lake Malta (p.73), just east of the centre is one of the most unique urban leisure areas in the country, and offers loads of family activities for all seasons, including skiing, rollercoasters, and the New Zoo. Meanwhile, just north of the Old Town, Citadel Park’s 89 hectares of public greenery are stuffed with interesting monuments, and even two museums focussed on the city’s military history (p.62).

Photo by Tomasz Szuster. Courtesy of City of Poznań

facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

If you’re in the area for longer, you might also consider the comfortable day trip out to Gniezno (p.68) - Poland’s first capital. No matter how long your stay, you’ll find plenty in Poznań to keep your interest. Use our Sightseeing section to explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and exciting cities. March - June 2016

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Sightseeing THE OLD TOWN SQUARE

GUIDED TOURS If an authoritative print guide and expansive web portal simply aren’t enough, and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Poznań and we list the best of them here.

© gekaskr / Dollar Photo Club

Packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and mementos from the city’s rich history, the marvellous Old Town Square was faithfully reconstructed after the immense damage of WWII. Its most impressive structure has to be the deliciously elaborate Town Hall at its centre. Near its southeast corner, you’ll find the Pranger, a 16th-century punishment device to which unlucky criminals would be chained and whipped or mutilated according to the executioner’s fancy. To the left of the Town Hall is perhaps the most recognisable Poznań sight: the technicolor row of Budnicy Houses (domki budnicze), named in honour of a class of merchants known as Budnicy, whose headquarters used to operate at no. 117. Moving clockwise, we come across two sad concrete carbuncles haunted by the ghost of the beautiful Cloth Hall that stood in their place before World War II. The one closer to the merchant houses is now the Wielkopolska Military Museum, while the one on the left houses Arsenał, a contemporary art gallery originally known as the Central Exhibition Bureau. A bit further along, you’ll see the 18th-century police guardhouse, currently housing the 1818-1819 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum. A few steps away is the cute, freestanding Municipal Scales building, which almost looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel. Originally constructed in 1534, it once housed hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market. Behind it you’ll find a small statue of a traditionallydressed Bamber peasant girl carrying jugs used in wine-making (to find out more about the Bambers, a group of farmers from Bavaria who came to Poznań around 300 years ago, visit the Poznań Bamber Museum on ul. Mostowa 7/9). Other sculptures include four mythological fountains guarding the sqaure’s four corners: they depict Proserpina, Mars, Neptune, and Apollo. Between the last two there’s one more monument worth admiring - the 1724 figure of John of Nepomuk, a Bohemian martyr saint who was supposed to protect the city from repeated, disastrous floods (the 1960s re-routing of the Warta River ultimately did a far better job of that, however). 52 Poznań In Your Pocket

CITY GUIDE POZNAŃ Excellent local guides offering tours in English, German, Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to attractions throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast Route). During Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was chosen to show delegates of the European Commission around the city solid credentials indeed. Their sister company, City Event Poznań, organises segway and beer tours as well.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityguide-poznan.com.pl. KULTOUR.PL City guides offering tours of Poznań and the surrounding area. Languages spoken include German, English, Russian, Ukrainian, Spanish. Please call in advance to book a tour. Qtel. (+48) 601 87 16 61, www.kultour.pl. VISITPOZNAŃ VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and alternativethemed walking tours for groups and individuals. Regular Old Town tours (20zł) in English leave from Góra Przemysła (C-2, near the Royal Castle) Thu-Sat at 15:00 (Thu-Sun from May 1st); other languages and tours by prior arrangement, with prices below.Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan. info. For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs, 340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.

TOURIST INFORMATION CITY INFORMATION CENTRE QB‑2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. CITY INFORMATION CENTRE QE‑4, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 61 633 10 16, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport, Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 21 40, www.cim. poznan.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Maps and guides in Polish, English, and German. Assistance in those languages plus French, Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 56, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. From May open 10:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing CHURCHES Poland’s first bishopric was established in Poznań way back in 968AD, meaning the city is home to the oldest Christian places of worship in this extremely devout country. Poznań Cathedral was Poland’s first, and you can read more about it and other churches in that district in our Ostrów Tumski section on page 60; here we list churches in the city centre only - all of which are still active to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try not to visit during services. FRANCISCAN CHURCH Built from 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to church just off the market square. Hidden behind the bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of baroque over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood, stucco and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented stalls, which literally jump out at you in their bright flamboyance. It’s a spectacle worth seeing, but visitors also flock to this church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.QC‑2, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:45. No visiting during mass please. LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became in October 2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 on Saturdays at 12:15. QC/D‑2, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara. archpoznan.pl. Open 06:00 - 19:30. No visiting during mass please. ST. ADALBERT’S CHURCH This small, uniquely-shaped Gothic building was constructed in the early 15th century and is notable for its adjacent wooden belfry and Art Nouveau murals. The high altar features a Late Gothic relief of the assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the other altars are manneristic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923 it has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska, the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words of the Polish national anthem, and the urn containing General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski’s heart. The church also contains the sarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the famous doctor and social activist.QG‑2, ul. Wzgórze Św. Wojciecha 1, tel. (+48) 793 84 28 60, www. swietywojciech.archpoznan.pl. Open before mass and by prior arrangement. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

THE OLD TOWN HALL First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s glorious Town Hall (Ratusz) really flowered in mid-1500s when Italian architect Giovanni Quadro of Lugano added the Renaissance loggia, attic, and classical tower, earning the structure acclaim as ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps.’ Unfortunately a JvM catalogue of historic disasters - including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that today little of the original structure actually remains, though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status as the city’s showpiece. Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Museum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures from mythology. Directly outside the Town Hall is the original whipping post, dating from 1535, with a recently repaired figure of Poz’s executioner standing on top. Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony. The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th century, and the goats have been ramming heads 1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the governor of the Poznań province was invited for the unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats escaped and traipsed up to the top of City Hall, where the governor saw them butting heads and decreed they be added to the clock. The rest, as they say, is history much like the cook, who was likely tied to the whipping post and given a bloody good thrashing.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00 (11:00 - 17:00 starting from June 16th), Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/15zł, Sat free. March - June 2016

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Sightseeing THE ROYAL CASTLE

MONUMENTS Poznań is liberally sprinkled with monuments, both essential and obscure - not least of all on the market square, which features over a half dozen fountains and sculptures. Here we list Poznań’s most interesting monuments around the rest of the city centre. HYGIEIA The Greek goddess Hygieia can be seen sitting serenely upon this water well on Plac Wolności. The story begins in 1841 when Edward Raczyński constructed the city waterworks, choosing to place a well, decorated with intricate reliefs, between Marcinkowskiego and Lutego streets. In 1908 the well was moved down to ul. Podgórna, but not before Albert Wolf further embellished it with the goddess of good health, cleanliness and hygiene. The well found its current place in 1971.QC‑2, Pl. Wolności.

Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and you’ll find yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal Castle, which is currently being rebuilt by the city to reflect its former glory. Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital. Work on the royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that. In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied Arts Museum (currently closed for renovation). Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal births, weddings and treaty signings seems to have been undervalued, but that’s in the past now. In 2002 a committee for rebuilding the Castle was founded and work began in December 2010 on the total restoration of Poznań’s Royal Castle. To date, most of the exterior work has been completed, including the castle tower, while the interiors should finally open to the public in 2016.QC‑1/2, Góra Przemysła. 54 Poznań In Your Pocket

MONUMENT OF THE 15TH POZNAŃ LANCERS REGIMENT

This feisty fellow mounted on horseback commemorates the 15th Poznań Lancers Regiment, which fought against the Bolsheviks in 1920 and with the Poznań Army in 1939. The original was created by Mieczysław Lubelski and Adam Ballenstaedt and unveiled in 1927, but it was destroyed by the Nazis during World War II. The version that exists today was installed in 1982 and created by Józef Murlewski and Benedykt Kasznia and is the site of military ceremonies and the annual Poznań Lancers Day event (April 21-24 in 2016). QC‑2, ul. Ludgardy. MONUMENT OF THE POLISH UNDERGROUND STATE & HOME ARMY The work of Gdańsk artist Mariusz Kulpa, this large installation dedicated to the wartime Polish Underground State and Home Army was unveiled in September 2007 and consists of numerous tablets commemorating both poznan.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing individuals and organisations, as well as six stone eagles seemingly suspended in mid-air, which represent Poland’s (seemingly paradoxical) flight and fight for independence. It’s truly a stunning work, and even more so in the evening when illuminated by the dim flicker of candles placed in tribute.QA‑1, Between ul. Wieniawskiego and Al. Niepodległości (Wieniawski Park). MONUMENT TO THE VICTIMS OF KATYŃ & SIBERIA A walk around the castle grounds is a must, especially the rose garden out back. It’s here one finds the Katyń monument, a 6.5 metre bronze effort permanently festooned with flowers and candles. Unveiled on September 17, 1999 - the 60th anniversary of the Soviet invasion - this hefty memorial commemorates the 22,000 Polish officers massacred by Beria’s NKVD in 1940.QA‑1, Near the corner of ul. Fredry and Al. Niepodległości (The Imperial Castle Garden). STARY MARYCH The bronze statue of a man with a bicycle that you may find yourself colliding with is that of Stary Marych (Old Marych), one of Poznań’s most beloved citizens. A fictional character who came to symbolise the typical Poznanian, the grumpy but decent Stary Marych was the creation of Juliusz Kubel, and featured heavily on Polish radio, all the time speaking in his particular and highly amusing Poznań dialect. Sculpted by Robert Sobociński, the photogenic codger has stood since 2001.QC‑3, Corner of ul. Półwiejska and ul. Strzelecka. WOODROW WILSON Former US president Woodrow Wilson can be found fittingly in the park of his name (Park Wilsona). Though it may seem an unexpected honour, put simply, few outsiders did more than Wilson to ensure Poland’s existence and independence after WWI. The Poles were so grateful that upon his sudden passing a competition to sculpt his likeness was undertaken and won by John Gutzon de la Mothe Borglum, who at the same time was famously profaning the Black Hills of South Dakota with the profiles of four other former American presidents (now known as Mount Rushmore National Monument). Erected in the presence of Wilson’s widow in 1931, the original monument was soon toppled by the Nazis, and after the war the communist authorities were quick to rename the park after Marcin Kasprzak. The fall of communism reversed the renaming and an original design proposal by Polish sculptress Zofia Trzcińska-Kamińska was uncovered and executed by Jerzy Petruk, whose work has stood in the park since 1994.QBetween ul. Głogowska, ul. Matejki and ul. Berwińskiego. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

THE IMPERIAL CASTLE More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s fearsome ‘Zamek’ in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neoRomanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with the northern part of the complex consisting of service rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again. Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height. Used by the University in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962, hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts, film screenings and other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising Museum, and throughout the large complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes and bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided tours of the castle in English are available for 150zł but must be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52 88.QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Free admission without tour.

© GKor / Dollar Photo Club

March - June 2016

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Sightseeing POZNAŃ TRADE FAIRS

While many foreign visitors to Central Europe may be unfamiliar with Poznań, businesspeople involved in foreign trade are likely to be more than aware of the city. That’s because Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital with the title justified by the country’s largest fair grounds, where the biggest and best fairs in Poland take place each year. Though Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back to the thirteenth century, the true predecessor of today’s fair was the 1911 East German Industrial Exhibition, which showcased Germany’s achievements in annexed Polish territories. Six years later the Union of Merchant Associations, comprising merchants from Greater Poland and Eastern Pomerania, decided to develop a specialised cyclical expo based on the successful model of the Leipzig Trade Fair. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921, when the first Poznań Fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political and economic changes that periodically moved through Poland and Europe: from playing a key role in re-integrating economic activities in the newly independent second Polish Republic, to the near-demise of the fair complex during WWII air raids (which destroyed the iconic Upper Silesian Tower), and to a new start in the post-war communist state. Though the 1950s were a time of uncertainty and tension, with the fair closed down for a few years due to the Cold War atmosphere, the ‘60s proved to be a period of robust growth, so much so that organisers started running out of exposition space. From 1973 on, the event was broken up into smaller chunks, as more specialised fairs branched off from the main expo. Currently, the Poznań International Fair constitutes over 60% of the Polish exhibition industry, hosting some 10,000 exhibitors a year - approximately a quarter of them foreign - in the complex’s sixteen halls, which add up to 150,000 square meters of space. The total number of annual visitors attending the sixty or so trade fair events - everything from welding to horticulture, logistics to beach fashion - usually reaches half a million. 56 Poznań In Your Pocket

MUSEUMS ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Housed in the beautiful 16th-century Górka Palace, Poznań’s Archaelogy Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes you through the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature dioramas depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron Age. The other permanent exhibit, ‘Death and Life in Ancient Egypt,’ features 120 rare pieces, from a granite obelisk of Rameses II to the mummified remains of a woman named Hat. QD‑2, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł. Sat free. Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio guides avaliable in English. Y­U HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF POZNAŃ The show-stealing Town Hall proves a fitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars - originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering the city’s urban and economic development during that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on the first floor hold the most valuable documents and artefacts, and the opulent vaulted ceilings - depicting griffins, lions and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone. Exhibits include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from 1688 - resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wish to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the second floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was under Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits of prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depicts the history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the Town Hall.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00 (11:00 - 17:00 from June 16th), Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. Y­N LITERARY MUSEUM OF HENRYK SIENKIEWICZ Winner of the Nobel Prize in 1905, and once one of the world’s most popular authors, Sienkiewicz is best known internationally as the author of Quo Vadis, a birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50 languages. This museum dedicated to his legacy is located in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can see outside), and the collection is the life work of Ignacy Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after helping to free Sienkiewicz’s only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the author’s Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts, correspondences and a collection poznan.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing of his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899. The opulent rooms are crowded with chandeliers, portraits and period furniture, his writing desk, and pictures of our hero posing with his series of wives. Though recently fully renovated and featuring more of the requisite multimedia trappings of modern museums, this special interest exhibit remains a domain that should probably be reserved for literary scholars and Sienkiewicz’s extended family. If that’s you, you’ll be delighted to discover that an audioguide is now available in English and German. QD‑2, Stary Rynek 84, tel. (+48) 61 852 89 71, www. bracz.edu.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. N MODELS OF POZNAŃ

A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s development. Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. And it doesn’t end there. Now they’ve added similar models depicting Poznań in the 10th century, as well as a detailed model of the main square.QC‑2, ul. Ludgardy 1, tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta. poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00 (until 19:15 from June 1st). Admission 15zł. Y­N PHARMACY MUSEUM One of the smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly the trickiest to find - go through the courtyard, ring the doorbell then climb to the second floor. The series of rooms here are filled with rusty pots, scales, vials and cast iron mortars from the 17-19th centuries. While once you’d find yourself wandering around in ignorance, the museum now offers small guides in English, German and French. One room has been designed to mimic a 19th century pharmacy - complete with a box for morphine - while another includes over 1,200 rare medical books, a stuffed alligator and an inmate’s uniform recovered from Mathausen.QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. (+48) 61 851 66 15. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

WWII POZNAŃ After being annexed by Nazi Germany in 1939, Poznań was incorporated into the Third Reich and underwent aggressive Germanisation, with over 100,000 civilians expelled from the city and replaced with Volksdeutch settlers from the Baltic States and other regions. Of those ‘exiled’ many actually died in mass executions conducted in 1940 in the area surrounding Lake Rusałka (just off the map near E-1). It was also in Poznań in 1943 that Himmler declared Nazi intentions to exterminate Jewish life, and today little survives of Poznań’s Jewish heritage (p.65), with the early 19th century graveyard on ul. Głogowska (E‑4) destroyed by the Nazis, before being incorporated into the Poznań International Trade Fair complex (p.56) by communist authorities after the war. Under occupation, Poznań’s Imperial Castle (p.55) was remodelled as a residence for Nazi Governor Arthur Greiser by infamous Reich architect Albert Speer. Gestapo HQ was located in Dom Żołnierza (ul. Niezłomnych 1), which became an interrogation centre with thousands of Poles tortured in the basement. It was stormed by the Red Army in February 1945 and fiercely defended by the SS, who ultimately opted for mass suicide over capture. Completely battered by this siege, the only original remnant of the building is its tower, spared the brunt of Soviet aggression so it could be used as a reference point by artillery units. Prisoners processed through Dom Żołnierza usually ended up in the (still functioning) prison on ul. Młynska (B‑1), or the notorious Fort VII west of the Old Town. The first Nazi concentration camp established on Polish soil, this 19th century fort today serves as the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (p.59), and its sombre subterranean chambers are filled with relics recovered from the site – photographs, cutlery, wallets and rosaries. Outside, the ‘Death Wall’ commemorates the thousands shot by firing squad. The Soviet siege of Poznań resulted in 90% total destruction of the city’s Old Town, and a few images of the city in ruins can be viewed in the Historical Museum of Poznań inside the Town Hall (p.56). Another area defended to the last man was the fortress in Citadel Park just north of the Old Town, which today houses two military museums - the Poznań Army Museum and the Museum of Armaments (p.63). In addition to several war monuments, Citadel Park also hosts a British military cemetery (p.63), which is the resting place of Allied airmen shot down over Poland during WWII and also several of those captured during “The Great Escape” - the famous POW escape story popularised by the Hollywood movie with Steve McQueen. March - June 2016

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Sightseeing LECH VISITOR CENTRE

The Poznań Brewery - one of the largest in PL, and producers of Lech, Tyskie, Żubr, and Redds - lies on the outskirts of the city and is a must for beer aficionados. There is no minimum number of people required for a tour, so you can happily book by yourself, but they do ask that you make an appointment the day before, or at very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite this, our unannounced arrival presented no significant problems, other than having to wait half an hour in the bar (our preferred habitat) while a guide was rustled up. The two-hour tour, available in English and German, is both informative and thorough, and guided by employees of the brewery chosen for their experience and interest in the brewing process. The brewery itself, dating from 1980, is fairly impressive and thoroughly modern. The first hour of the tour consists of a waltz through the production process, fermentation and mashing, as well as the usual guff about water purity and the like. The most striking thing about the production plant is the lack of humans and the sheer amount of sparkling steel and technology. For your second hour you’ll be whisked off to the ‘multimedia centre’ for a film on the history of the company, as well as a galaxy of other attractions telling the story of Lech. We recommend that you take notes because you will be quizzed on the film when it finishes, we kid you not. Later, have your photo taken inside a huge can of Lech, which you can then instantly email to all of your friends, or get involved in the bottling process which is guaranteed to bring out the child engineer in everyone. The tour finishes with a well-earned beer, which you can choose from their portfolio of brands, and you of course exit through the gift shop. To get to the brewery take tram 16 from ‘Most Teatralny’ (F-3) to ‘Szwajcarska’ and you can’t miss the brewery opposite the M1 shopping centre, as it has three huge towers draped in bright green Lech flags. Alternatively a taxi ride from the centre will set you back about 25zł. Qul. Szwajcarska 11 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 667 74 60, www.zwiedzaniebrowaru.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Tours start every 2 hours from 10:00 onwards with the last tour at 18:00. You should book a day in advance. Admission 12/6zł. Y 58 Poznań In Your Pocket

NATIONAL MUSEUM An excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting Impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition, a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered and is back on display. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic.QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00 (11:00 - 17:00 starting from June 16th), Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/18zł, Sat free. Y­N

POZNAŃ BAMBER MUSEUM Learn more than you ever wanted to about the Bamber people inside an interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays include a 17th century bonnet, looms, paintings, clothing and timber furniture - everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum. QD‑2, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. (+48) 605 62 16 11, www. bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission free. U POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM Considering how much of a Poznań trademark St. Martin’s croissants are, it’s surprising that a museum dedicated to them has only just recently popped up in the city. The Croissant Museum hosts daily shows at 11:10 (the “Croissant and Goat Show”), 12:30, 13:45 (in English, Sat-Sun during off-season, daily from July until September), and 15:00; they include a multimedia presentation, legends, a tour of the historic museum building, a chance to bake croissants using traditional tools, and - of course - a tasting.QD‑2, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl. Closed Mon. Admission 16-18/14-16zł. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Read more reviews online: poznan.inyourpocket.com WIELKOPOLSKA MARTYRS MUSEUM One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. At least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of which 4,500 were murdered, though other estimates have the death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk, along which visitors will see the ‘death wall’ - where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark underground tunnels used as makeshift gas chambers. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips, and arrest warrants. The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved, including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries, and identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task, however. It’s found in the western suburbs, so your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20-22zł for the journey.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00 (until 17:00 from April 1st), Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 2/1zł. Tue free. N WIELKOPOLSKA MILITARY MUSEUM Situated inside a brutal communist-era pavilion, the Military Museum documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds the collection includes the armour of winged hussars, sabres, muskets and cannons, as well as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The collection was decimated during WWII, with the only surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901 painting, The Battle of the Pyramids.QD‑2, Stary Rynek 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From June 16 open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. Y­N

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INEA STADIUM Originally built in 1980, when Poznań was chosen to host the EURO2012 football championship, the city’s stadium was redeveloped rather than completely reconstructed, and capacity raised from 27,000 to 43,090, at an investment of €160 million. Today the home of popular local side Lech Poznań, INEA Stadium is one of the top stadiums in Europe, featuring covered seating throughout, plus all the service points you would expect at a modern sports complex, including the rather splendid ‘12 Sports Bar & Restaurant.’ Host to large-scale events throughout the year, the stadium has also become a bit of a tourist attraction with 45min-1hr guided tours available in Polish, English, German and French, during which you’ll get a chance to experience the changing rooms that Lech Poznań call home, the Presidential boxes, press room, conference room, the Hall of Fame, and, of course, the pitch itself; check their website for exact tour times and prices. Getting there is easy - just catch tram no. 13 from ‘Wrocławska’, getting off at ‘INEA Stadion’.Qul. Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 886 30 31, www.ineastadion.pl. Tours start at 10:30, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00 Mon-Fri, and 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:00 on the weekends; more times might be added dur‑ ing the summer. Admission 15zł, students 10zł, kids ages 6-13 5zł, kids under 5 free. March - June 2016

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Ostrów Tumski

Crossing Jordan Bridge into Ostrów Tumski | Photo by Zbigniew Szmidt, Courtesy of TRAKT Center for Cultural Tourism

Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded, and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrow Tumski becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after the first bishopric was established in 968. The first iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand-year history it has been home to kings and bishops alike. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan Bridge (I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!). A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also serves as an important crash course on early Polish history and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself. 60 Poznań In Your Pocket

PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge between the main exhibition building and the Cathedral Lock - a restored section of the former Prussian river fortifications. The main building is actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating history of the area from medieval times to the modern day, emphasising its importance to Polish national identity along the way, via an excellent audioguide and interactive multimedia displays designed for the entire family. The touring route concludes by leading visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for exploring the district. The audioguides are an extra charge, but are intended to be used to explore not just the Centre, but the entire district. Available in English, German, French, Spanish, Czech, and Russian, there are three specially designed audiotour routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one for families - that make the experience worthwhile for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is a souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace that offers unique views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding area. Highly recommended.QI‑3, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission for the permanent exhibition 15/9zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30zł. Group tickets (10+ people) 8zł per person. Audio guide 5/3zł, family 10zł. U poznan.inyourpocket.com

Ostrów Tumski POZNAŃ CATHEDRAL The most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznan Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from. Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the first cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it was razed, rebuilt and remodelled numerous times over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism. During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the style visitors see today. The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, surrounded by twelve different chapels, including the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry; the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland, destroying pagan idols.

CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style, with a three-nave hall, star vaulting and polychromatic decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to 1518, which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately the church is closed for renovation until 2016, so it is presently impossible to get inside.QI‑3, ul. Panny Marii, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese. The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art and relics, including the sword of Saint Peter, numerous statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops.QI‑2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 12zł. Y­N

The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, which originated at the famed Nuremburg workshop of Herman and Peter Vischer. The slabs were originally on the Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display.

GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia displays and documentary films, and brave the glass walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls and embankments. The audioguide (included in the price) comes in both Polish and English and helps explain how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QI‑3, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.muzarp.poznan.pl/ rezerwat. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 11:00 - 18:00 (until 19:00 starting from April 1st), Sat 09:00 - 17:00 (until 19:00 starting from April 1st), Sun 10:00 - 15:00; closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 10zł. Sun free. Y

Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware that the lights in the crypt are motion-activated, so if you stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.QI‑3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00 (until 19:00 starting from April 1st). No visiting during mass please. Crypt entrance 3.50/2.50zł, rest of the Cathedral free.

Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island

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Citadel Park

The ‘Rose Garden’ | Photo by Andrzej Otrębski / Wikipedia / CC BY-SA 3.0

Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89 hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic overlook has a long history that involves multiple name changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of monuments, museums and historical tales. The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in a strategic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design responsibilities were given over to the exasperatinglynamed General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade. The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with 1.3-1.8 metre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery decks and even a moat, making it the central element of the city’s defences. Despite the efforts that went into the construction, and seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria and France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern warfare and played no role until it was captured by insurgents during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it 62 Poznań In Your Pocket

was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into the history books as the final Nazi stronghold during the Battle of Poznań in 1945, finally captured by the Soviets on February 23, 1945. After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely dismantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local housing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian movements, how the fort was breached, and even the charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962, and a Russian cemetery and Red Army memorial soon found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992 after the regime finally fell, today visitors will find this former military stronghold is home to art installations, monuments, several museums, cemeteries and large outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and do in the city’s largest park. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Citadel Park WHAT TO SEE BRITISH MILITARY CEMETERY

Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here that you’ll find the graves of several of the men involved in what is now known as “The Great Escape” (it wasn’t just a movie folks!). In addition to the 174 servicemen from the First World War (all of whom died in various parts of Poland as prisoners of war) there are also 283 World War II servicemen buried in the cemetery. Many of those graves are airmen who died in bombing operations over what is now the Polish city of Szczecin, but there are also several graves of soldiers involved in the mass escape from Stalag Luft 3 in Żagań, a feat depicted in the popular Hollywood film, The Great Escape. Following their daring escape, most of the fugitives were captured by the Nazis, executed and their ashes were buried in the local cemetery at Sagan/Żagań, before being later moved to the military cemetery in Poznań where they can be found today. To locate them enter the cemetery at al. Armii Poznań (G-2); turn right and you’ll see a large white cross and the graves of most of the murdered. The man considered to be the mastermind of the escape is Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, renamed “Bartlett” in the film and portrayed by Richard Attenborough. Keep the name change in mind when looking for Bushell’s grave, and be sure to sign the visitor’s book that can be found inside a small door on the large white cross monument. QG‑2, Citadel Park. Open from dawn till dusk.

GETTING THERE If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer a quicker route can grab a bus at the ‘Fredry’ stop (near Pl. Ratajskiego, B‑2) and take it four stops to the ‘Armii Poznan’ stop outside the park. Another option is tram #3 from ‘Małe Garbary’ near the Rynek (D‑1); seven stops later you jump off at ‘Armii Poznań’ and you’re there. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

HEADLESS FIGURES Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is officially titled “Unrecognised” (“Nierozpoznani”). 112 in all, each measuring 2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work of local arts grad and international art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is keeping mum on its meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar installation in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s headless fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QH‑1, Park Cytadela.

Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. D. Krakowiak

MONUMENT TO THE HEROES OF THE POZNAN CITADEL One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the Soviet Obelisk located prominently at the top of the grand staircase as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznan (G-2). The giant Socialist Realism column is dedicated to the Russian soldiers killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large red star affixed to the top which disappeared in the dead of night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Official complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored by police, and for years the public was left to speculate what became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star was filled with jewels proved to be one popular urban myth). In recent years, however, a local journalist looking into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it: local firemen had removed the star using their rescue ladders. They fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on display at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QG‑1, Park Cytadela. MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World War II) prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various weaponry and ammunition as well as photos of battles from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buffs however is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole host of war machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket launcher, bombers and a MIG15.QG‑1, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www. muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Fri free; ticket also valid for the nearby Poznań Army Museum. N March - June 2016

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Citadel Park 1945 BATTLE OF POZNAŃ Sadly, Poznań’s city centre shared the same fate as many Polish cities in the tragic events of WWII. Nearly 90% destroyed, the city had to be painstakingly reconstructed in the postwar years. While bombings were responsible for much of the structural damage, the real nail to the coffin came in the shape of the 1945 Battle of Poznań, a month-long confrontation between the advancing Soviet army and the retreating Nazis. The city had just been declared by Hitler to be a Festung - a stronghold where garrisons mounted last-ditch stands in the hopes of holding out behind advancing Soviet lines and disrupting supply transports and lines of communication. 40,000 German troops, including fortress garrison soldiers, regular field soldiers, Volkssturm, SS, and Police soldiers, barricaded themselves in 19th-century fortifications built during Prussian rule, including the Fort Winiary citadel. On January 24th, 100,000 Soviet forces led by General Chuikov moved in and encircled the city, beginning to attack and reduce the fortifications. Systematically pushed into a smaller and smaller perimeter, by February 12th the Germans only held the citadel. Six days later the final assault began. Faced with a deep ditch and high rampart, the Soviet troops had no better option than to use ladders to cross (in a bizarrely Medieval twist), but once they did, fire opened from the citadel’s redoubts. It took the Soviets three days to neutralise the redoubts and build an impromptu bridge, which allowed tanks and heavy machinery to cross into the main grounds on February 22nd. At that point, luck had most definitely ran out for Nazi General Gonell and his army; Gonell committed suicide by shooting himself in the head, and the remaining 12,000 German soldiers were turned over to the victors by General Mattern. Today the Poznań Citadel Park is a historic site featuring military cemeteries, memorials, and two museums: the Museum of Armaments and the Poznań Army Museum.

The Old Town Hall had seen better days

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POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM Recently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the city’s military history, with particular focus on the Second World War and the inter-war period. A large number of items from these times are on display, including various newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos and uniforms. But other eras are covered too, with some artefacts - such as old bullets and army storage devices - dating back as far as 1897. Note that the ticket also includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments, also located in Citadel Park.QH‑2, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan. pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Fri free; ticket also valid for the nearby Museum of Armaments. Y­N ROSE GARDEN Certainly one of the nicest and most popular parts of Citadel Park, particularly in fine weather, is the ‘rosarium.’ Consisting of six landscaped terraces planted with different roses, trees and shrubs descending to a small lake at its centre, this is perhaps Poz’s most romantic corner, as evidenced by all the couples getting very cosy on the numerous benches scattered about. Go for a stroll, stop to smell the roses, and maybe sneak in a snog on the side.QG‑1, Park Cytadela. THE BELL OF PEACE AND FRIENDSHIP AMONG NATIONS Erected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a largely turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the remembering when it’s rung on holidays and anniversaries such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans capitulated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850 kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QH‑1, Park Cytadela. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Poznań The history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the first days of the city, though like so many other towns in Central and Eastern Europe this rich heritage was all but extinguished with the horrors that followed Hitler’s rise to power. Although first recorded mention of a Jewish presence is dated to 1364, it is commonly accepted that the first Jewish settlers arrived in the 13th century when Prince Bolesław the Pious issued a decree granting Jews his protection. As Poznań grew so did the Jewish population, and by the start of the 15th century it’s estimated that one in four buildings on ulica Sukiennicza - the de facto centre of the Jewish community - were occupied by Jews, a fact not lost on city planners who promptly rechristened it ‘ulica Żydowska,’ or ‘Jewish Street’ (D‑1). An influx of German burghers and suspicious arsons marked a 15th century decline for Poznań’s Jews, though Poznań’s Jewish population stood around 3,000 in the early 17th century when racial tensions reached a nadir with the infamous 1736 trial of Rabbi Yossef, who was accused of ritual slaughter and publicly burnt at the stake. When the city fell under Prussian jurisdiction in the 19th century, however, Jews slowly found themselves accepted into the fold. Following the Great Fire of 1803 they were allowed to live freely throughout the rest of the city and as such ties between Jews and Germans strengthened. In fact, so solid were these relations that the Jewish community rallied around the Germans during the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising, a fact not forgotten by the local Poles. When Poznań was absorbed into the Polish nation in 1919 the Jews found themselves once more on the hard end of local feelings, and a significant number migrated west to Germany, where they expected greater tolerance. With WWII looming, Poznań’s Jewish population stood around 1,500 - a number that would vanish soon after the city was annexed into the Third Reich in 1939. The city was named capital of the Wartegau province, and a plan was hatched to rid the city of its Jews within three months. Deportations began on December 11th of the same year, with Jews packed into cattle trucks bound for the ghettos of Warsaw or Lublin, and on April 15, 1940, the fascist rag Ostdeutscher Beobachter gleefully reported the removal of the Star of David from the last synagogue left standing. Those who remained in the Poznań region were sent to a labour camp next to the city stadium where their duties primarily consisted of building roads and other backbreaking work. The camp operated until August 1943, when the decision was taken to liquidate both camp and inmates. Indeed, Poznań was something of a model Nazi city, and on October 4, 1943, Heinrich Himmler gave a sordid speech to his Nazi cronies about the extermination of the Jewish people. A small number of Jews survived in hiding, and after the war several hundred actually returned to re-settle in the city. However no effort was made by the government to re-establish Jewish culture, and the subsequent anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist government saw the number of Jews dwindle to well under a hundred. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

The Old Synagogue/’Swimagogue’ at ul. Wroniecka 11a

The Nazis were meticulous in their destruction of Jewish heritage and traces of it are few and far between today. Rather miraculously, however, Poznań’s Old Synagogue (D‑1, ul. Wroniecka 11a) survived the war by being converted into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht officers. The ‘swimagogue’ (as it was cheekily known) was returned to the Jewish community in 2002, however disrepair forced its closure and plans for its restoration have stalled. The early 19th century Jewish cemetery on ul. Głogowska was destroyed and its tombstones used to pave roads during WWII, after which the area was incorporated into the Trade Fair grounds. In recent times, however, steps have been taken to commemorate its existence with a memorial plaque on ul. Głogowska 26a (E‑4), and in 2008 a ceremony took place to commemorate Rabbi Akiva Eger - commonly accepted as Poznań’s greatest Rabbi. Previously a parking lot, his grave site has been turned into a grassy square named in his honour. A memorial to the victims of Poznań’s Nazi labour camp stands by the Multikino cinema (G‑5, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51), and prayer services take place each Friday at ul. Stawna 10 (D‑1). Other efforts to reintroduce Jewish culture to the city include the annual Tzadik Poznań Festival (www.tzadikpoznanfestival.pl) each September - a feast of music aimed at celebrating the past, building bridges and opening dialogue between local communities.

THE JEWISH COMMUNITY Founded in 1999, Poznań’s Jewish community organises commemorative events and exhibitions around the city. Contact them by email via poznan@ jewish.org.pl for more information, or to participate in Friday prayer services.QD‑1, ul. Stawna 10, www. poznan.jewish.org.pl. March - June 2016

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Wielkopolska Uprising Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak, the Polish forces scored swift successes against a German army shattered from four years of world war, liberating neighbouring Kórnik and Mogilno, but counter attacks suggested a stiffening German resolve. Fighting continued and by January the situation was out of hand. To save the region from total anarchy, the government in waiting (christened NRL) took charge of all civil and military issues, conscripting all Polish men born between 1897 and 1899 into military service. Taking their oaths of allegiance in what is today Plac Wolności (B‑2), the Polish troops continued to march into increasingly fierce battles with their German counterparts.

Since 1795 - when it was carved between Imperial Russia, Prussia and Habsburg Austria - Poland had been off the map and effectively ceased to be a country. Poznań enjoyed brief freedom when Napoleon’s conquering troops liberated much of Poland during their march east in 1806, however Napoleon’s military disaster on the plains of Russia resulted in the 1815 Congress of Vienna, which saw Poznań delivered back into Prussian hands where it would remain for over a century. With Europe reeling after World War I, Germany in collapse, and Russia plunged into revolutionary chaos, Polish patriotic fervour once more simmered to the surface. The overwhelmingly Polish people of Poznań could sense independence was near, but there remained one crucial sticking point: German stubbornness to relinquish the Wielkopolska region. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an independent Poland had failed to set any boundaries, and though Warsaw was back in the hands of a Polish government, Poznań was still answerable to Berlin. Ever since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918, Poznań’s Poles had been plotting an uprising. Positions in local government and industry were forcibly seized by Poles and the countdown was on for outright war. Following weeks of tension the fuse was finally lit on December 27th. Historical accounts of how the Uprising started vary; some sources claim it was the shooting of Franciszek Ratajczak and Antoni Andrzejewski on the steps of the police headquarters that started the initial fighting, though most point to a stirring speech given by the pianist and patriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski on the balcony of what was then the Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, C‑2). While addressing the Polish crowd assembled below a German counterdemonstration passed by - within moments shots had been fired and the Uprising had begun. Historians disagree on which side started the hostilities, but either way there was no turning back the clock. Within hours Polish forces had captured the Poznań train station and post office, while other towns in the region joined them in rebellion. 66 Poznań In Your Pocket

Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in no small part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 saw the beginning of international peace talks, and within two days the French delegation had persuaded the Germans to sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, this time including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fighting continued for the next few days, but to all intents and purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, were liberated. WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MONUMENT Sitting in the northwest end of Drweckich Park, the Wielkopolska Uprising Monument was designed by Alfred Wiśniewski and unveiled on September 19, 1965. The monument itself is a granite-covered 17 metre tall tower decorated with reliefs that depict the Wielkopolska struggle, including the student strike in Września, famed Radomil, pl.wikipedia.org Polish revolutionary Marcin Kasprzak and the death of the first upriser Franciszek Ratajczak. Standing proudly next to the monument are statues of two uprisers: one is an officer with a sabre, the other a private holding a gun.QF‑4, Corner of ul. Królowej Jadwigi and ul. Wierzbięcice. WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising (though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. The exhibition includes a 1908 Maxim heavy machine gun sitting behind a row of sandbags, a copy of the uniform worn by the Uprising’s commander-in-chief, as well as original state decorations awarded to him. Other points of interest include a replica banner flown on the night of the Uprising’s outbreak, photos of troop formations and a series of postcards issued to commemorate the event.QC‑2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.muzeumniepodleglosci. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł. Sat free. Y­N poznan.inyourpocket.com

1956 Uprising The Poznań Riots, or the ‘1956 Uprising’ (because PL loves its Uprisings), was the first recognised strike and street demonstration in Communist Poland. Although brutally suppressed, this show of the people’s strength remains an intense source of pride for the local community, and though it would be another 33 years until the people of Poland would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlin, the uprising led to a significant liberalisation of Soviet policy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980 Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth of the Solidarity movement. The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certain degree of optimism among Poles, promising an end to the social and political terror associated with the Soviet Union’s hegemony of Central and Eastern Europe. Hopes were short-lived, however, as Nikita Khruschev’s address to the 20th Convention of the USSR’s Communist Party in 1956 spoke of strengthening socialism’s grip on the East, and of the dangers of individualism. Simmering with discontent the Polish media helped stir local discord and on June 28th strikes broke out in Poznań’s factories - first in the Stalin brick factory (later the ‘Hipolita Cegielskiego Factory’), before spreading to the city’s other major industrial plants. An estimated 100,000 workers descended on the Municipal National Council (now the Zamek building), chanting slogans like ‘Bread and Freedom’ and ‘Out with Bolshevism,’ while demanding lower prices, higher wages and a reduction in work quotas. Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn when it was revealed that the team negotiating on behalf of the strikers in Warsaw had been arrested and detained by the authorities. Infuriated, the demonstrators stormed Poznań prison, liberating 257 inmates, destroying records and seizing armaments. Armed with assorted small arms and petrol bombs, the insurgents marched back to the city centre to continue their protests. With a volatile atmosphere threatening to run out of control, the communist authorities reacted by deploying 10,300 soldiers, 400 tanks and 30 armoured personnel carriers to Poznań. Fierce street battles followed, but with the city cut off from the outside world, order was quickly restored by June 30th. The clashes officially left 76 civilians and eight soldiers dead, with over 600 strikers injured (though unofficial estimates were vastly higher). Victims included a thirteen year old boy shot through the heart while waving a Polish flag, and the news of the riots helped spark an equally heroic anti-communist uprising in Budapest. Although Poland was to suffer another three decades of Communist control, the riots had a huge influence in the shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish Communist Party was left reeling from the chaos, and several Stalinist hardliners found themselves dismissed in a bid to appease the people, as limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of press censorship followed. A museum commemorating the events of 1956 in the Zamek (ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, A‑2) is worth visiting to really understand the momentous events of the ‘Poznan June.’ facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

1956 UPRISING MONUMENT However impressive the nearby Adam Mickiewicz is, he finds himself outshone by the soaring 1956 Uprising Monument. Made of steel, the two crosses (21 and 19 metres for the number crunchers) were unveiled on June 28th, 1981, the 25th anniversary of the first rebellion against Soviet control. A tablet commemorates a visit by Pope John Paul II in 1997, while close by is an excellent multi-lingual electronic information point filled with facts about the rising.QA‑2, Pl. Mickiewicza. 1956 UPRISING MUSEUM The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden down a side entrance this basement masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills. QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free. Y­U­N March - June 2016

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Gniezno

Gniezno Old Town and Cathedral | Photo by Radoslaw Maciejewski - Fotolia.com

While the people of Poznań are eager to claim their city as Poland’s first capital, anyone with a passing knowledge of Polish history will recognise this as a fib. That title belongs to Gniezno, a picturesque town lying just 50km east of Poz. In all of Poland nowhere is more synonymous with the foundation of the Polish state than Gniezno. Although the capital was eventually shifted to Kraków and then Warsaw, Gniezno remained an important centre of worship and is still regarded today as Poland’s ecclesiastical capital. For the visitor it is an intriguing town full of spires and cobbles - a superb medicine to the frantic flap of urban Poland.

GETTING TO GNIEZNO Nothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from Poznań. Trains run frequently throughout the day and you’ve got two types to choose from: the TLK is direct with prices starting at 15.30zł for the 26-minute journey, while the REGIO costs 13.50zł and lurches to a stop at every hamlet along the way, extending the travel time to about 45 minutes. Travellers using the TLK train should note that Gniezno is the first stop on the route; don’t expect any announcements alerting you to your arrival. The train station is a simple affair featuring an ATM, newsagent, and cafe, and it’s a 10min walk to the Rynek, with the Cathedral lying just beyond - simply follow ul. Dworcowa until you reach ul. Mieszka I, and then follow the latter to its conclusion. Alternatively 10zł should be enough to get you dropped off in the market square (Rynek) by a cab. 68 Poznań In Your Pocket

GNIEZNO ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM If your eyes are still hankering for the sight of more treasure after a trip to the Cathedral, head here to view a lavish collection of ecclesiastical riches: golden goblets, embroidered vestments, state gifts received by cardinals, oil paintings, coffin portraits and even a chalice purporting to have once belonged to St. Adalbert are all presented here. An absolute feast for the eyes that is sure to present moral dilemmas for kleptomaniacs.Qul. Kolegiaty 2, tel. (+48) 61 426 37 78, www.muzeumag.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. From May open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 6/4zł, from April 10/6zł. N MUSEUM OF THE ORIGINS OF THE POLISH STATE Housed in a functional concrete carbuncle, this modern museum features numerous audio-visual presentations designed to appeal to the constant school trips that file through the doors, as well copies of archaeological relics dating back to the founding of the Polish state - that means lots of pots, vases, bowls, and daggers. Permanent and temporary exhibits over three floors focus on the history and culture of the Middle Ages, and the telling of the beginnings of the Polish state in Gniezno and Wielkopolska is aided by a 3D movie, which runs in several languages. Qul. Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 426 46 41, www. mppp.pl. Open 09:00-17:00 (until 18:00 starting in April). Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 30zł, group ticket over 10 people 9/6zł per person, Sun free. U poznan.inyourpocket.com

Gniezno GNIEZNO CATHEDRAL Gniezno’s Cathedral is regarded as the spiritual home of Poland’s former monarchy - it’s here Poland’s first five kings were crowned. To truly enjoy it requires two visits; a guided tour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, while a follow up solo tour allows you to really take stock of the riches and relics before you. Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the principal highlight of the Cathedral is the ‘Gniezno doors,’ a pair of winged bronze doors from the 12th century where you naturally begin your tour. Featuring 18 panels, each masterfully engraved with scenes from the life of St. Adalbert, start from Adalbert’s birth on the bottom left panel, and then follow his story upwards and around. Of note are an exorcism illustrated on the sixth panel, and his murder on the fourteenth. Yep, that’s his head on a stick in the next. Regarded as one of the most important pieces of Romanesque art in Poland, ironically no one has a clue who created them, unlike the portal that frames the door - look closely and you’ll notice the signature scribble of the craftsmen on the left side. Worthy of further investigation in its own right, the portal dates from 1400 and features an engraving of Jesus sitting on a rainbow (rainbows were believed to mark the entrance to heaven) with two swords in his mouth - symbolic of the power he wields in both heaven and earth. Next up is a trip to the crypt - the highlights of which include Poland’s oldest gravestone, the coffins of the country’s past primates, and the pattern of the tiled floor (which you might recognise from the 10zł note) - before onto the Cathedral proper. Originally built between 1324 and 1370 the Cathedral has been patched up and embellished over the course of time, and nowadays it is the Baroque flourishes that steal the show. It’s impossible to put a figure on the number of must-see details, and it’s at this stage where having a guide becomes invaluable. The 13 arcades around the presbytery are symbolic of Jesus and the 12 apostles, and there’s a heavy emphasis on allegorical symbolism. At the rear of the Cathedral you can spot one of only two works by Wit Stwosz found outside Kraków. In total the Cathedral is surrounded by 13 side chapels holding a number of points of interest, including a miracle working crucifix found in the Chapel of Jesus. The cross has accompanied the Polish army into battle since the 17th century when it was first seen to bleed. The elaborate gold confession, situated at the top end of the Cathedral, is stunning, and said to be modelled on the Confession of St. Peter’s in Rome. Beneath it is the silver sarcophagus of St. Adalbert, designed by Gdańsk master craftsman Peter van Rennen. Considered the most important relic in the country the silver coffin is balanced on six eagles, and carried on the figures of a priest, peasant, townsperson and knight. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

Unfortunately visitors are denied the opportunity to view the library. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book (dating from 880AD), a papal edict that features the first recorded use of the Polish language, and numerous letters penned by Poland’s former regents. Though frustrating, this locked door policy is fully understandable. The Cathedral has had misfortune served up in spades. Its significance to the Polish state has not been lost on invaders and as a result it’s been burned, looted, battered and destroyed on numerous occasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into a stable, while the ‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no apparent reason. The Nazis, meanwhile, replaced St. Adalbert’s portrait with that of Hitler and planned to use the building as a concert venue for high-ranking fascists. Legend goes, however, that on opening night a bishop drifted unannounced across the hall and disappeared into the crypt below. Shots were fired at the unannounced gatecrasher, but none hit their mark, spooking the Nazis enough to scrap their plans and not set foot inside again. Unfortunately this didn’t stop them from employing Volksdeutsch workers and systematically stripping the building of its valuables, melting the gold and shipping off countless treasures to shady vaults. Only the confession and the organ escaped them - the latter only to be blown to smithereens by the Soviets in 1945. The bell tower shared the same fate, which explains why you’ll see the original bell lying outside the main entrance. Rebuilt (with no bell) the bell tower is open in the summer season, and its 231 steps lead to panoramic views across town.Qul. Łaskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 424 13 89, www.archikatedra. com. Open 09:00-11:45, 13:00-16:00 (until 17:00 starting from May); closed Sun. Admission requires 4 tickets to see the Cathedral’s 4 highlights: Bell Tower 3/2zł (open from May 1st), Cathedral 1.50/1zł, Underground 2.50/2zł, Doors 2.50/2zł. To get the most out of your visit we recommend you hire a guide; again each section is separate: Cathedral 30zł, Underground 10zł, Doors 10zł (group price).

Photo by Marcin Chady, flickr.com, CC BY 2.0

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Leisure

Kicking back amid greenery | Photo by K Pictures

Whether you’re looking to take a break from the bustle of the Rynek or just want an excuse to stretch your legs, Poznań offers a multitude of parks, green spaces and recreational activities to consider. First and foremost are the 89-hectare Citadel Park (see p.62) - full of leafy promenades, historical monuments and museums, and Lake Malta (p.73) - one of the most unique urban recreation areas on the continent. As such, we’ve devoted a separate section of our Leisure pages especially for all of the attractions and activities around Lake Malta’s shores, including fantastic family attractions like the New Zoo and the Termy Maltańskie water park. Whatever you’re looking for, use the listings below to stay active in every season.

ADRENALINE SPORTS GEARUP! Big news for all amateur aviation enthusiasts: Poland’s first full flight simulator for the general public is here! This fully functional 737NG airliner simulator has been painstakingly modelled on the real thing, with not a single button out of place, and it can be all in your hands for 10, 30, 60, or 90 minutes. And if you’re looking for something to really jazz up a boring business meeting, an important birthday, or your n-th wedding anniversary, this might just be your no. 1 bet!QG‑4, ul. Kwiatowa 2, tel. (+48) 518 39 54 84, www. gearup.aero. Open 13:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:30 - 21:00, Sun 12:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. MAGNUM SHOOTING RANGE Shooting club covering 50m2 with 15 shooting ranges whose arsenal includes authentic Glocks and AK-47s. An 70 Poznań In Your Pocket

instructor is on hand to give free advice on how to handle the various weapons.Qul. Witosa 45 (entrance from ul. Dojazd 6), tel. (+48) 602 51 04 68, www.strzelnicamagnum.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Gun rental 20zł/person. Ammunition costs extra and varies by firearm. PAINTBALL FORT DĘBIEC Add authenticity to the paintball experience by taking aim at your mates in Fort IXA - a 19th century military fort in Dębiński Forest.Qul. 28 czerwca 1956 352 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 511 20 58 55, www.poznan-paintball.pl. Open by prior agreement. Prices are available via their website and depend on the type of route and play selected.

BOWLING & BILLIARDS MK BOWLING At first glance, MK Bowling looks like a cross between an American diner and a night club - mainly down to the red booths, large bar and larger choice of drinks - including the very American option of ordering beer by the pitcher. It’s on the lanes (seven in total) where you’ll find the real fun, however, and there are plenty of daily promotions, including student discounts Mon-Thu until 17:00 (before which bowling is only 40zł/hour). If you can beat our top score of 268 then the next pitcher is on us.QB/C‑2, ul. Święty Marcin 24 (Galeria MM), tel. (+48) 61 222 50 51, www.mkbowling.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. Prices vary depending on day of the week and hour of day: 12-18zł per person per game, or rent 1hr of lane time for everyone for 69-99zł. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Leisure INDOOR ATTRACTIONS BLUBRY6D If you ever thought of dropping some acid with your young children, here’s the legal way to do it. Put on a pair of 3D glasses and immerse yourself in a hallucinatory, brighneon labyrinth of spastic trees, deranged mushrooms, and dizzying miscellany while listening to a narration about two Poznań legends. Do try to stay focused, as the staff will quiz you at the end of each room - the punishment for failing, presumably, is to leave you forever wandering the LSD maze from hell. The whole experience lasts around 30 minutes, but you’re almost guaranteed to lose all sense of space and time.QC‑1, ul. Wroniecka 6, tel. (+48) 61 307 04 46, blubry6d.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 17/15zł. U LET ME OUT Think you can escape from an alien spaceship or Indiana Jones-eque temple in 45 minutes using only your wits? Escape games have gotten rather popular of late as a more intellectual alternative to - say - bowling or billiards, so grab a few friends, take deep breath, and put your collective problem-solving skills to the test as the timer ticks down to your demise. Let Me Out has been created in an admirably-adapted apartment close to the Castle (entrance is opposite to Bar Dragon), so while not 100% profesh, it really is good fun.QC‑1, ul. Zamkowa 4/3, tel. (+48) 886 33 09 60, www.letmeout.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. 99zł per group of 2-4 people for a 45-minute session. THE OLD ZOO Poland’s oldest zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of the city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting their stuff, pythons slithering, and caimans splashing around. It’s worth the admission price, and enjoyable to visit without the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.QE‑3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo. poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00 (until 19:00 from April 1st). Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House. Y­U

SPA & BEAUTY HARMONIA SPA You’ll find pretty much all you could ever need for some serious ‘R&R’ (that’s rest and relaxation) in this 500m2 beauty salon and wellness club on the 2nd floor of the Andersia Hotel. Includes a swimming pool with hydro-massage, jacuzzi, Finnish and steam sauna, gym, aerobics room, solarium, bar, and more.QG‑4, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 83 00, www.spaharmonia.pl. Wellness section open 06:30 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 08:00 22:30 (sauna, solarium, gym, jacuzzi). Spa open daily 10:00 - 22:30 (body treatments). Y facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

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Leisure MALTESE BATHS See ‘Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days’ feature, p.8.QK‑4, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www. termymaltanskie.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Prices start at 9zł for sports pools and water spark, 20zł for spa. Y REGATTA WELLNESS & SPA Found inside the brand new Regatta Hotel complex, the Wellness & Spa centre offers something for everyone and reinforces the old adage that “size is not important.” Yep, it’s small and cosy, but the pool and jacuzzi look as inviting as you could wish for and the separate beauty parlour, massage and gym rooms are ultra-modern and relaxing. Hotel clients get access to the gym, jacuzzi, sauna and pool for free but the competitive prices make this the perfect little retreat for an afternoon of indulgence and luxury.Qul. Chojnicka 49 (Regatta Hotel, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 81, www.regattahotel.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

youtube.com/inyourpocket THAI-LAND MASSAGE Experience everything from a traditional Thai foot massage to a full body massage at Thai-Land, which features monthly promotions and passes that give customers a welcome discount.QC‑3, ul. Długa 14, tel. (+48) 510 40 45 04, www.thai-land.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. THAI SMILE MASSAGE Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fine massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English speaking staff ) only five minutes from the market square, Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget about the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to choose from (massage room and the oil room) and a cup of tea afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give this place the thumbs up.QB‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel. (+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 22:00.

Two Poznan legends told in an unusual way Wroniecka 6 (100m from Main Square) Phone: +48 61 307 04 46 Mobile phone: +48 737 796 440 www.blubry6d.pl blubry6d

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THAI SPA After a strenuous day of shopping and sightseeing, what better way to relax those weary muscles and kick back than a nice massage? With soft music and wonderful staff who know just what you want without even asking, Thai Spa caters for all needs and is the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of the busy centre. It’s easy enough to get to (just hop on the number 15 or 16 tram to ‘Lechicka/ Poznań Plaza’), but make sure you check the timetable back as you might end up staying longer than you planned.Qul. Drużbickiego 11 (Piątkowo), tel. (+48) 61 840 76 66, www.thaispa.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Lake Malta



Photo courtesy of POSiR

Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an icerink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a worldclass regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta.

WHAT TO SEE & DO ADRENALINE ALPINE COASTER A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops (even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors around the track at 40km per hour.QK‑4, ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55​, www.maltaski.pl. Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a 1-person cart 7zł; 3rides 15zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart 12zł; 3 rides 25zł. Y MALTA FESTIVAL If there’s one highlight on the local cultural calendar it has to be the Malta Festival, staged each summer since 1991. Including alternative theatre, concerts, film screenings, workshops, exhibitions, and more, it all takes place this year from June 17th - 28th. See page 20 for more.Qwww. malta-festival.pl. MALTANKA MINI RAILWAY Pleasing the paying public since 1956, this is one of the last 600mm narrow gauge railways in PL, faithfully pulled by ‘Borsuk’ (Badger) - a steam engine with two whistles. Operating from April 16th to the end of September, it’s a unique attraction for rail buffs, and also a great way to view Malta. Better still, this is one of the most practical ways to get to the ‘New Zoo’ - catch it from the Maltanka stop near Rondo Śródka (J-3) and ride it to the end, namely the Zwierzyniec stop at the zoo. Trains run on the hour Mon-Fri 10:00 - 18:45; weekends on the half hour 10:00 18:00; tickets 6/4zł.Qtel. (+48) 61 839 66 90, www.mpk. poznan.pl/turystyka/maltanka. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

PYRLAND PARK Located on the east end of Lake Malta, this adventure park features 4 ropes courses (3 for adults, one for kids over 3 years old) and two Tyrolkas - sweet 65m zip lines. If you need a rest afterwards, there are two designated picnic areas with bonfire and BBQ options.Qul. Abpa A. Baraniaka/ Chartowo, tel. (+48) 660 04 89 01, www.pyrlandpark.pl. Open every day 10:00 - 18:30, though bear in mind that this is a weather-dependent attraction. Rope courses 20-35zł each, or 30-60zł for both; kids 15zł; familly ticket (2 adults plus 1 kid) 70-80zł. Tyrolka 15zł (10zł with ropes course receipt). Y THE NEW ZOO The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over 2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60 percent pine and mixed forests with a man-made stream and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang is a year-round mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump off at whatever creature cage takes their fancy. Located beyond the far east end of Lake Malta (not actually on the lake), during the summer you can get there by taking the Maltanka mini-railway to the last stop ‘Zwierzyniec’. If coming from the centre of Poz, take tram 8 from ‘Plac Wielkopolski’ to ‘Krańcowa’. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre costs about 30zł.Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan. pl. Open 09:00-16:00 (until 18:00 from April 1st). Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 15/8zł, family ticket 35zł; weekend admission 20/10zł, family ticket 50zł. Y­U

GETTING TO LAKE MALTA Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre, and Rondo Śródka (J-3), at the lake’s northwest corner, is the best place to access it. Below are the public transport options from three main points in the centre. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore will cost about 30-35zł. From the train station (E-4): Take tram 6 from the ‘Most Dworcowy’ stop directly to ‘Rondo Śródka.’ The journey takes about 20 minutes. From ul. Podgórna (C-3): There is no directly tram connecting Podgórna with Rondo Śródka. You should take trams 5 or 16 from the ‘Wrocławska’ stop and get off at the ‘Kórnicka’ stop. Then take tram 6 to the ‘Rondo Śródka’ stop. From ul. Małe Garbary (D-1): Take tram 17 from the ‘Małe Garbary’ stop and get off at ‘Rondo Śródka.’ March - June 2016

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Shopping

The chic interior of Projekt Iwona Rychlewicz (p. 76)

TAX FREE SHOPPING Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase value with VAT per Tax Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.globalblue.com.

The Global Blue Card

Your Passport to Great Savings, The World Over (more information at gb’s website) 1. You are a non-EU traveler 2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN 3. You export the purchased goods outside of the EU

YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE SHOPPING SERVICE

www.globalblue.com 74 Poznań In Your Pocket

Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And Armani. Even Versace. You can wander through the vast, award-winning Stary Browar mall or the new Poznań City Centre spending złoty until you’ve solved the European debt crisis, but if you’re bringing gifts back to show your loved ones what a trip to Poznań is like, a Burberry bag made in London won’t cut it. That’s why throughout this section we’ve made an effort to list establishments selling gifts that actually say, “I went to Poland.”

ALCOHOL You may have noticed that here in PL, it’s a bit of a drinking culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the country’s success at football. Indeed, nothing says ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland. As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if it’s not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka) and Żołądkowa Gorzka (herbal stomach liqueur). Alcohol shops are more ubiquitous than churches and cabbage in this country, so you should have no trouble stocking up at any time of night. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Shopping BASILIUM A shop for serious beer lovers, Basilium stocks around 150 different types of the stuff, giving you a good chance to take home a few quality local flavours with a bit more character than the mass-produced brews found stocked in supermarkets and local chain stores. The friendly staff are more than happy to go through the choices with anyone looking for advice before making their purchase.QD‑2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.

MARKETS

AMBER & JEWELLERY Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. GALERIA YES YES jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland, but this location on ul. Paderewskiego sets itself apart by being an exclusive gallery, curated by YES founder Magda Kwiatkiewicz herself, showcasing the highest achievements in artistic jewellery by Polish designers. As such, it has played a significant role in the shape and direction of the Polish jewellery market for over a decade, and in addition to their lovely commercial display cases, the exhibits held here are always worth a peek.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeriayes.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. ŚWIAT BURSZTYNU Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 20 years of experience to their name.QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88, www. desta-amber.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. W. KRUK Poland’s oldest and most revered chain of jewellery stores caters to men and women with tastes that range from classic amber pendants and Tag Heuer watches to modern designs of their own making. Also at ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar, G-4) and ul. Maltańska 1 (Galeria Malta, J-4).QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 2, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 61, www.wkruk. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

ART & ANTIQUES The historic centre is filled to bursting with dusty little stores selling antiques (look for signs saying ‘Antyki’ or ‘Antykwariat’). A quick exploration of the side streets will reveal everything from WWII memorabilia to 19th century coins and navigational charts. Do remember when purchasing that permission will be required if you’re planning on taking anything pre-1945 out of the country for the most part such a certificate will be provided by the shop, though do check beforehand. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get cheap local produce and some of the only places in the centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise your “Proszę” and point skills at any of the unique shopping environments listed below, and remember that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills will both be met with disdain. TARGOWISKO JEŻYCKIE One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located markets is just west of the Old Town on historic Rynek Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one of the city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by the faded glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the 400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing and other random goods you might be wiser not to take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QE‑3, Rynek Jeżycki, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. TARGOWISKO WIELKOPOLSKIE With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets, this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts, and other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans, socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet scrubbers, and whatever else you can imagine.QC‑1, Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. March - June 2016

75

Shopping ANTYKWARIAT Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war postcards and other special keepsakes.QD‑2, ul. Klasztorna 1, tel. (+48) 61 851 75 13. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT Solid collection of antiques collected by Piotr Sobisiak. On offer is furniture, porcelain, silver cutlery, pitchers, jewellery and other pre-war treasures.QB‑2, ul. Kantaka 10, tel. (+48) 61 851 88 10, www.gem-art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT NAUKOWY A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints, and telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering along the well-stocked shelves.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www.antykwariat.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM EMPIK This large store is a one stop shop for foreign press and magazines (prices are gougey though), guidebooks, there’s a somewhat decent English-language book selection, CDs, DVD, video games and more. Find them in almost any Polish shopping mall. Also in Galeria Malta (J-4).QC‑3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 667 12 00, www.empik.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. VINYLGATE RECORDSTORE Worth seeking out, this is Poznań’s best music store - full of thousands of new and used vinyl records and CDs covering all genres, but also with an emphasis on more contemporary DJfavoured sounds like techno, house, electronica, drum’n’bass, breakbeat, etc. Inside you’ll also find plenty of DJ and home stereo equipment, accessories for taking care of records, music merch and other gear that make the crew behind Vinylgate the leading ambassadors for the city’s vinyl revival.QB‑2, ul. Garncarska 3, tel. (+48) 501 72 77 97, www.vinylgate.eu. Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES FORFORM Irresistably hip, ForForm specializes in the best of European and Polish design (furniture, prints, and assorted home goods) from the second half of the 20th century.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 883 42 43, www.forform. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. KARTELL FLAGSTORE Combining creativity and functionality since 1949, this Milanese design company known for colorful plastic creations has spawned flagstores all over Europe, including our charming little city.QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 21, tel. (+48) 61 816 27 14, www.kartellshop.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 76 Poznań In Your Pocket

Moliera 2 ,

, Bazar Poznanski

POZNANSKI, AL. MARCINKOWSKIEGO 10 MOLIERABAZAR 2 BAZAR POZNAŃSKI +48 61 855 19 54 WWW.MOLIERA2.COM Located in the gorgeously renovated Bazar Hotel (right next to Burberry), this luxury fashion boutique features women’s clothing, shoes and accessories from top designer brands like Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Jimmy Choo, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, and Victoria Beckham. Shop online to find even more swag and savings.QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, tel. (+48) 61 855 19 54, www. Moliera2.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

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18/06/15 00:02

NEW PROJEKT IWONA RYCHLEWICZ Discover high-quality fashion by assorted Polish designers in this small, industrial-style boutique. True to slow living principles, none of the furnishings in the shop came from retail chains (be it the checkout counter, radiator, or lamps), and many items are for sale - just ask.QE‑2, ul. R. Strzałkowskiego 11/2a, tel. (+48) 512 08 02 60. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD & SWEETS SŁODKIE CZARY MARY A charming and colourful sweets shop where young ladies roll out the delicious goodies that cover the shelves, while children and their parents watch in wonder. Choose from a range of reasonably-priced lollipops and hard candies that come in dozens of flavours from rhubarb to whiskey-cola. A unique experience for kids, candy-making demonstrations take place regularly throughout the day.QH‑3, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 511 59 29 19, www.slodkieczarymarypoznan. pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace, and woodwork all look lovely on someone else’s mantle. Folk art is an easily recognisable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the country’s favorite hero Pope John Paul II. CEPELIA A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and handicrafts.QD‑2, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 58 14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

@PoznanIYP poznan.inyourpocket.com

Moliera 2 ,

, Bazar Poznanski

BAZAR POZNANSKI, AL. MARCINKOWSKIEGO 10 +48 61 855 19 54 WWW.MOLIERA2.COM

Shopping SHOPPING MALLS GET THE APP CERAMIKA BOLESŁAWIECKA If you aren’t familiar with Poland’s beloved brand of folk pottery, make sure you fix that before leaving town. Crammed full of colourful tableware with simple, handpainted and highly-recognisable folk motifs, this shop is sure to help you make someone on your list happy.QB‑2, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 61 853 47 98, www. ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. SALON POSNANIA A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and the like all associated with the head-banging goats for instance. You’ll also find the most popular selection of books and albums relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska and Poland in foreign languages as well as locally produced art. A smaller selection of the above is also available at Stary Rynek 59/60 (C-2) and at the airport.QB‑2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07 54, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Y

POZNAN CITY CENTER Shopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’ than this modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s impressive new train station; as such, it couldn’t possibly be better connected to public transport or easier to get to and from. Featuring over 200 retail spaces, including Saturn, H&M, TK Maxx, Empik, and Toys R Us, Poznań City Centre also offers plenty of cafes, restaurants and fast food eateries, as well as a multilevel parking garage. Opened as recently as October 2013, if nothing else this mega-complex is worth checking out just to appreciate how much Poznań has developed and progressed over the last several years. QE‑4, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 61 627 01 90, www.poznancitycenter.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

FACTORY OUTLET This outlet centre, one of just a few establishments of this type in Europe, is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Puma, Calzedonia, Desigual, Gino Rossi, Mango, and more. To get here, take tram 9, 10, or 27 from “Most Teatralny” (E-4) to “Dębiec” and change to bus 610, getting off at “Luboń / Factory Outlet”.Qul. Dębiecka 1, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 652 30 30, www.factory.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. GALERIA MALTA The largest retail and entertainment centre in western Poland with over 162,000 square metres of shopping and leisure opportunities. Opened in March 2009, Malta features a Multikino as well as a Marks & Spencer, H&M, TK Maxx, Benneton, Tatuum, Pull & Bear, and Empik. Dining opportunities include Salad&Co and Costa Coffee. Trams 5, 16, and 17 all stop nearby (at either “Kórnicka” or “Baraniaka”). QJ‑4, ul. Maltańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 658 10 22, www. galeriamalta.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. GALERIA MM A shopping mall right in city center for all your shopping needs, be it clothes, a tall caramel frappuccino, make-up, or the sudden urge to go bowling. The location just can’t be beat - a five minute walk away from the Main Square, the Galeria MM is named after the two streets that intersect at its address, ul. Święty Marcin and Aleje Marcinkowskiego. Behind the eye-popping love-it-or-hate-it facade you’ll find around fifty popular stores.QB‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 24, tel. (+48) 61 855 22 94, www.galeriamm.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. STARY BROWAR Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 32, tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, www.starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Full contents online: poznan.inyourpocket.com 78 Poznań In Your Pocket

poznan.inyourpocket.com

Directory Our services directory lists everything possible that we think could be of use and which doesn’t fit nicely elsewhere. Use the listings here when things go wrong and you need to find a doctor or embassy, or when you’ve become so smitten with Poz that you’ve decided to relocate here permanently. Whether a traveller or expat, we hope you’ll find these listings helpful.

24HR PHARMACIES APTEKA CENTRALNA DOZ QC‑1, ul. 23 lutego 18, tel. (+48) 61 852 26 25.

24HR SHOPS LOTOSQJ‑3, ul. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 519 07 56 26. MAŁGOSIA QB‑1, ul. Karola Libelta 6.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES In Poznań, unfortunately, unless you are Russian or American, your nearest embassy is likely in the capital, Warsaw, some 310km away. CZECH REPUBLICQul. Koszykowa 18, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525 18 50, www.mzv.cz/warsaw. DENMARKQul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk. GREAT BRITAINQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk. IRELANDQul. Mysia 5, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.embassyofireland.pl. NETHERLANDSQul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl. RUSSIAQE‑3, ul. Bukowska 53a, tel. (+48) 61 841 77 40, www.poznan.mid.ru/web/konsulat-generalny-rosjiw-poznaniu. SLOVAKIAQul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525 81 10, www.mzv.sk/varsava. TURKEYQul. Malczewskiego 32, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 854 61 10, www.warsaw.emb.mfa.gov.tr. USAQC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 851 85 16, poland.usembassy.gov.

EMERGENCY ROOMS Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Poznań, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve vetted them for you and assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off or take a commission. KANTOR CORNER QE‑4, ul. Głogowska 79, tel. (+48) 61 866 01 19, www.kantorcorner.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. KANTOR GOLD QC‑3, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2 (Kupiec Poznański), tel. (+48) 61 850 89 51, www.kantor-gold.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. KANTOR PRZEMEKS QG‑4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 64 66, www.kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. KANTOR PRZEMEKS QF‑4, Poznań City Center (Main Train Station), ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 667 31 31 31, www. kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00. 80 Poznań In Your Pocket

HCP - CENTRUM MEDYCZNEQul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 194 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 22 74 181, www.centrummedyczne-hcp.pl. SZPITAL MIEJSKI IM. JÓZEFA STRUSIA Qul. Szwajcarska 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 873 93 46, www.szpital-szwajcarska.poznan.pl.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS BERLITZQF‑3, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14A, tel. (+48) 61 222 20 22, www.berlitz.pl. EMPIKQB‑1, ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19 (2nd floor), tel. (+48) 61 851 00 62, www.empikschool.com.

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKAQE‑4, ul. Głogowska 17, tel. (+48) 61 869 72 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs. POCZTA POLSKAQD‑2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. (+48) 61 886 55 19, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. POCZTA POLSKAQA‑2, ul. Kościuszki 77, tel. (+48) 61 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Directory PRIVATE CLINICS KLINIKA GRUNWALDZKAQE‑4, ul. Grunwaldzka 324, tel. (+48) 61 867 99 01, www.klinikagrunwaldzka.pl. LUXMEDQE‑3, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl.

REAL ESTATE GLOBAL INVESTQA‑2, ul. Fredry 1 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 602 21 55 09, www.globalinvest.com.pl. MAMDOMQwww.mamdom.com.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES 5N CHURCH Polish services translated to English at 10:00 every Sunday. QOs. Bolesława Chrobrego 117 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 514 919 664, www.k5n.pl.

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MUSLIM CULTURE & RECREATION CENTRE Services take place Fridays at 13:30.Qul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 864 10 48.

@PoznanIYP POZNAŃ INTERNATIONAL CHURCH Poznan International Church is a non-denominational Christian church that meets every Sunday morning at 10:30 on the 1st floor of the Sheraton Hotel. Includes the Word of God Sunday school for children (and wonderful childcare for smaller children) as well as coffee and tea after the service. QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48) 791 99 04 94, [email protected], www.international. pl. English-speaking service at 10:30 every Sunday.

RELOCATION COMPANIES GOSSELIN MOBILITY WARSAW Qul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737 72 00, www.corstjens.com. UNIVERSAL EXPRESS WORLDWIDE MOVERS Qul. Jasielska 8C, tel. (+48) 61 665 01 61, www.uer.pl.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERS BIURO TŁUMACZEŃ DELTA Qul. Starowiejska 1a/5 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 828 80 81, www.btd.pl. BUSINESS SERVICE Qul. Szeherezady 47 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 44 47, www.btbs.com.pl. facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Great guides written by locally-based travel writers to help you get the most out of your visit.

March - June 2016

81

Hotels

Hotel Moderno, p.83

Visitors to Poznań will be pleasantly surprised to find that the city is home to some of the most impressive hotel properties in the country. While Poznań’s role as Poland’s epicentre for conferences and fairs has clearly benefited those who like plush accommodations and modern conveniences to come standard, on the flip side those major conferences can cause prices to shoot up when space is in demand (rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs). Fortunately most hotels compensate by offering impressive weekend discounts to encourage travellers to stick around and explore the city. With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these days due to these special offers, online booking discounts and other price variations, we no longer find it particularly instructive to list room prices in our guide, as we once did. Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities. The venues listed here also serve as distribution points for our print guide, which can be picked up for free at the reception desks of the addresses listed. On our website you’ll also find full reviews, plus photos and reader comments, on all of the hostels and hotels listed in our print guide, plus dozens of other accommodation options in the region; unfortunately, space constraints no longer allow us to print these reviews. Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities. The venues listed here also serve as distribution points for our print guide, which can be picked up for free at the reception desks of the addresses listed. Sleep well. 82 Poznań In Your Pocket

CREAM OF THE CROP BLOW UP HALL 5050 QG‑4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 80, www. blowuphall5050.com. 22 rooms (22 singles, 18 doubles). P­H­U­K­D hhhhh CITY PARK HOTEL & RESIDENCE QE‑4, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26a, tel. (+48) 61 221 84 00, www.cityparkhotel.pl. 88  rooms (88  apartments). P­H­6­F­K­D­C hhhhh IBB ANDERSIA HOTEL QG‑4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, www. andersiahotel.pl. 171 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles, 27  apartments). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­C­w hhhh NH POZNAŃ QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www. nh-hotels.com. 93  rooms (93  singles, 93  doubles). P­H­6­U­F­K­D­X­w hhhh SHERATON POZNAN HOTEL QE‑3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. 180  rooms (167  singles, 167 doubles, 13 apartments). P­TH ­ ­6­U­F­L­K­ D­C­w hhhhh poznan.inyourpocket.com

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning H Conference facilities T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking on site

K Restaurant

w Wellness

D Sauna

X Smoking rooms available

6 Animal friendly

C Swimming pool

UPMARKET BROVARIA QC‑2, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www. brovaria.pl. 21  rooms (3  singles, 17  doubles, 1  studio). P­H­K hhh DON PRESTIGE QC‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61 859 05 90, www. donprestige.com. 73  rooms (52  singles, 47  doubles, 20 suites). P­H­6­F­L HOTEL KOLEGIACKI QD‑2, Pl. Kolegiacki 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05, www. hotelkolegiacki.pl. 24  rooms (24  singles, 21  doubles). P­H­U­F­K hhhh HOTEL MODERNO QE‑5, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel. (+48) 61 664 66 66, www. hotelmoderno.pl. 88  rooms (84  doubles, 3  suites, 1 apartment). P­H­K hhhh HOTEL REGATTA Qul. Chojnicka 49 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 10, www.regattahotel.pl. 23 rooms (22 singles, 22 doubles, 22 triples, 1 apartment). H­U­F­K­D­C­w hhhh

Traditional Thai Massage Open 7 days a week

HOTEL SOLEI GOLF Qul. Wałecka 2 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 847 58 38, www.hotel-solei.pl. 23  rooms (6  singles, 16  doubles, 1 apartment). H­6­K hhhh HP PARK QK‑4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874 11 00, www. hotelepark.pl. 97 rooms (95 singles, 95 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). P­Y­H­6­U­K hhh MAT’S Qul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 78 31, www.hotelmats.pl. 35 rooms (3 singles, 21 doubles, 9 suites, 2 apartments). H­6­U­KD ­ hhh

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Hotels MERCURE POZNAŃ CENTRUM QE‑3, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www. mercure-poznan-centrum.com. 228 rooms (227 singles, 187  doubles, 1  apartment). P­YH ­ ­6­U­F­L­ K­D hhhh

DISCO POLO!

NOVOTEL POZNAŃ CENTRUM QG‑4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www. accorhotels.com. 480 rooms (160 singles, 310 doubles, 10 apartments). P­Y­H­6­U­F­L­K hhhh

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No, it’s not an equestrian sport involving bell-bottomed jockeys (good guess, though), Disco Polo is a rather peculiar and uniquely Polish sub-genre of dance music. In fact you may have already been exposed to it without even realising it. It could have been blaring from a suped-up Fiat Duze rolling by, pulsing from a radio in a Żabka convenience store or been the soundtrack to that local wedding you attended a few months back. This cult genre first emerged in the early 90’s as folk musicians and wedding bands finally were able to upgrade their antiquated audio gear and buy some shiny new keyboards with built in drum machines (and 70’s disco presets). By mixing a little Italo Disco (read: Eurotrash Techno) into their Casiotone folk-anthems, a music revolution was born. Disco Polo quickly conquered every wedding hall, village disco and nightclub throughout the land. By 1995 there were Disco Polo programmes on every major radio and television station and even former Polish President Aleksander Kwasniewski used a Disco Polo song during his presidential campaign that year. Times were good and Disco Polo labels like Blue Star and ‘bands’ such as Bayer Full, Boys and Shazza were pumping out the hits and rolling in the zlotties. But alas, the good times couldn’t last forever. Disco Polo was scoffed at from the very beginning by the likes of intellectuals, music critics and professional musicians who viewed it as hokey and primitive (which it was/is). The tide began to turn for the genre as a whole when a few scandals involving disco polo artists and local mafia bosses started to make headlines in ‘96 and ‘97. These scandals coincided with a huge drop in cassette and CD sales. By the late 90’s the wedding party was officially over and the long national hangover had begun. Public opinion and the mainstream media quickly turned and openly derided and lampooned the jovial genre. Nowadays, the Disco Polo genre is about as respected as Country & Western or Smooth Jazz. Nonetheless, Disco Polo artists continue to break album sales records and tour regularly despite being the butt of almost every musical joke. The truth is, while it’s been officially cool to make fun of Disco Polo for the better part of a decade, it’s every red-blooded Pole’s guilty pleasure. 84 Poznań In Your Pocket

NOVOTEL POZNAŃ MALTA QK‑3, ul. Termalna 5, tel. (+48) 61 654 31 00, www. accorhotels.com. 149 rooms (149 singles, 149 doubles). Y­H­6­U­F­L­K hhh PLATINUM PALACE RESIDENCE Qul. Reymonta 19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego) (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 882 39 40, www. platinumpalace.pl. 14  rooms (14  singles, 13  doubles). P­H­6­K hhhh PURO HOTEL POZNAŃ QD‑1, ul. Stawna 12, tel. (+48) 61 333 10 00, www. purohotel.pl. 136  rooms (134  singles, 134  doubles, 2 suites). P­H­6U ­ ­F­K hhhh ROYAL QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00, www. hotel-royal.com.pl. 39  rooms (11  singles, 26  doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). H­L hhh VIVALDI QG‑1, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. (+48) 61 858 81 00, www. vivaldi.pl. 48 rooms (38 singles, 9 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­K­D­w hhhh

MID-RANGE CAMPANILE QE‑2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845 66 00, www.campanile.com. 80 rooms (76 singles, 76 doubles, 4 apartments). P­H­6­U­K hh GARDEN BOUTIQUE RESIDENCE QD‑1, ul. Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 222 29 99‫‏‬, www.gardenhotel.pl. 17  rooms (2  singles, 12  doubles, 2 triples, 1 apartment). P­L­K HOTEL 222 QE‑4, ul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. (+48) 61 899 32 63, www.hotel-222.pl. 51  rooms (51  singles, 51  doubles). P­H­K hh HOTEL FORZA Qul. Dworska 1 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 36 66, www.hotelforza.pl. 24  rooms (24  singles, 24  doubles). P­H­L­K hhh poznan.inyourpocket.com

Hotels

HOTEL KOREL Qul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 209 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 222 84 00, www.hotelkorel.pl. 41 rooms (34 singles, 13 doubles, 4 suites, 3 apartments). P­H­K hhh

MŁYŃSKIE KOŁO (THE MILLWHEEL) Qul. Browarna 37 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. 14  rooms (12  singles, 12 doubles, 2 apartments). 6­K

HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFA Qul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl. 24  rooms (6  singles, 17 doubles, 1 apartment). P­HK ­ hhh

QUALITY SYSTEM - HOTEL POZNAŃ Qul. Lechicka 101 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 07 00, www.quality-hotels.pl. 107  rooms (42  singles, 58  doubles, 7  apartments). P­H­6­U­K­D­C hhh

HOTEL POZNAŃSKI Qul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www. hotelpoznanski.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 100 doubles, 7 suites). H­U­K hhh

REZYDENCJA SOLEI B&BQD‑1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotel-solei.pl. 10  rooms (6 singles, 2 doubles, 2 apartments). P­6

IBIS QH‑4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. (+48) 61 858 44 00, www.accorhotels.com. 146  rooms (146  singles, 146 doubles). P­T­H­6­U­K hh

RZYMSKI QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. 87 rooms (28 singles, 53 doubles, 1 suite, 5 apartments). H­6­U­L­K hhh

IKAR QG‑2, ul. Kościuszki 118, tel. (+48) 61 658 71 05, www. hotelewam.pl. 145  rooms (57  singles, 80  doubles, 8 suites). P­H­6U ­ ­L­K hhh

STARE MIASTO QC‑3, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) 61 659 00 43, www. hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23  rooms (3  singles, 18  doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). P­H hhh

LECH QA‑2, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 51, www. hotel-lech.poznan.pl. 77 rooms (77 singles, 43 doubles, 4 triples). H hh

TOPAZ QF‑5, ul. Przemysłowa 34a, tel. (+48) 61 833 76 00, www.hotel-topaz.pl. 48  rooms (9  singles, 36  doubles, 2 triples, 1 suite). H­6­U­K hhh

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Hotels BUDGET GOLDQul. Bukowska 127a (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 842 07 74, www.goldhotel.pl. 12 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6 hh HOTEL RAMKAQul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance from ul. Wejherowska 10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94 99, www.hotelramka.pl. 26  rooms (24  singles, 24  doubles, 2 suites). P­6­K hhh

OUT OF TOWN GREEN HOTEL Qul. Jeziorna 1a, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61 810 80 75, www.greenhotel.pl. 44  rooms (40  singles, 36  doubles, 4 apartments). P­H­6­U­L­K­D hhh

APARTMENTS APARTAMENTY VELVET QE‑4, ul. Śniadeckich 7, tel. (+48) 606 88 88 00, www. evelvet.pl. 9 rooms (9 apartments). CAPITAL APARTMENTS QC‑3, ul. Piekary 16, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 00, www. capitalapart.pl. 29 rooms (29 apartments). 6

POZNAŃ IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent content we have on Poznań. Below is a sampling of articles that didn’t make this issue’s cut, with links to where you’ll find them online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket! THE ENIGMA CODE Have you seen The Imitation Game? What the film didn’t tell you (what a shocker) is that the cracking of the first Enigma codes was achieved right here in Poznań by Polish math majors, whose work formed the foundation of everything that would later take place at Bletchley Park. Get the whole story here: iyp.me/enigmapoznan POZNAŃ’S FORTS Poznań was once a heavily fortified city, as evidenced by the 18 early-19th century forts that surround the centre. While today most are completely abandoned, some are open to the public in various forms, and make an interesting form of alternative sightseeing. To that end we detail each of the 18 and tell you how to find them: iyp.me/poznanforts 86 Poznań In Your Pocket

CLASSICO APARTMENTS QE‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 41 48 27, www. classico-apartamenty.com. 25  rooms (25  apartments). 6 PLATINUM PALACE APARTMENTS QB‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66, www.apartamenty.platinumpalace.pl. 27  rooms (27 apartments). 6 POMARAŃCZARNIAQC‑3, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48) 515 377 320, www.apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl. 41 rooms (41 apartments). 6

HOSTELS EXPLORER HOSTEL QD‑3, ul. Wszystkich Świętych 6, tel. (+48) 600 96 55 55, www.explorerhostel.pl. 22  rooms (22  singles, 12 doubles, 6 triples, 3 quads). L­K FUSION HOSTELQF‑3, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48) 61 852 12 30, www.fusionhostel.pl. 17 rooms (3 doubles, 1 triple, 71 dorm beds). Y­U LA GUITARRA QC‑2, ul. Marcinkowskiego 20, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 74, www.lagitarra.com/poznan. 16  rooms (2  singles, 5 doubles, 6 quads, 60 dorm beds). 6 MELODY HOSTEL QC‑2, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel. (+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melody-hostel.pl. 16  rooms (2  singles, 10  doubles, 1  quad, 16  dorm beds, 1  sixperson room). POCO LOCO HOSTEL QB‑3, ul. Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 796 23 05 55, www. hostel.poco-loco.pl. 9 rooms (2 doubles, 46 dorm beds). 6 ROSEMARY’S HOSTEL QC‑2, ul. Wrocławska 13, tel. (+48) 61 855 27 61. 9 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad). SLEEP IN HOSTEL & APARTMENTS QC‑2, Stary Rynek 77, tel. (+48) 61 639 40 04, www. sleepinhostel.pl. 27  rooms (20  singles, 20  doubles, 7 apartments). 6 SODA HOSTEL & APARTMENTS QE‑3, ul. gen. Jana Henryka Dąbrowskiego 27a, tel. (+48) 793 27 27 20, www.sodahostel.com. 14  rooms (8 singles, 5 doubles, 3 quads, 36 dorm beds). Y VERY BERRY HOSTEL QC‑2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11/17, tel. (+48) 61 855 17 63, www.very-berry.pl. 24 rooms (6 singles, 10 doubles, 5 triples, 4 quads, 40 dorm beds). 6 poznan.inyourpocket.com

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Street Register 23 Lutego B/C‑1 27 Grudnia B‑2 3 Maja B‑1/2 Al. Armii Poznań G‑1/2 Al. Cytadelowiczów G‑1 Al. Marcinkowskiego C‑1/2 Al. Niepodległości A‑1/3 Al. Republik H‑1 Al. Wielkopolska E‑1/F‑2 Barzyńskiego E/F‑2 Bastionowa G‑1 Berdychowo I‑4 Bnińska K‑2/3 Bolesława Krzywoustego H/I‑5 Brandstaettera H‑1 Bukowska E‑3/4 Bydgoska J‑2/3 Cegielskiego H‑4 Chopina F‑2/3 Chwiałkowskiego F/G‑5 Cicha F/G‑2 Czartoria H/I‑3 Długa C/D‑3 Dominikańska D‑1 Dożynkowa G‑1 Droga Dębińska H‑5 Drzewna F‑4/5 Drzymały E/F‑1 Dworcowa E/F‑4 Działowa G‑2 Działyńskich B‑1 Dziekańska I‑2/3 Ewangelicka H‑3/H/I‑4 Filipińska I/J‑3 Franciszkańska C‑2 Fredry A‑1/2 Gajowa E‑3 Garbary D‑1/2 Garncarska A‑2 gen. Dąbrowskiego E‑3 gen. Maczka F‑1 Głogowska E‑4/5 Główna J‑1/2/K‑1 Gołębia C/D‑2 Góra Przemysła C‑1/2 Górna Wilda F/G‑5 Graniczna E‑5 Grobla D‑2 Grochowe Łąki G‑2/3 Grudzieniec E/F‑2 Grunwaldzka E‑3/4 Gwarna A‑2 Inflancka K‑5

Jana Pawła II I‑4/5/J‑3/4 Jaskółcza C‑2 Jeżycka E‑2 Kaliska J‑4 Kanałowa E‑5 Kantaka B‑2 kard. Wyszyńskiego I‑3 Katowicka J‑4/5 Kazimierza Wielkiego H‑4 Klasztorna D‑2 Kochanowskiego E‑2/3 Kopernika G‑4 Koronkarska J‑2 Kościuszki A/B‑1/2/3 Kozia C/D‑2 Kórnicka I‑4/5/I/J‑5 Krakowska G‑4 Kramarska C/D‑1 Krasińskiego E/F‑3 Kraszewskiego E‑3 Królowej Jadwigi G‑4/5 Krysiewicza C‑3 ks. Posadzego I‑3 ks. Wujka F‑5 Księcia Józefa G‑2 Ku Cytadeli H‑2 Kurpiowska F‑2 Kurza Noga C‑2 Kwiatowa G‑4 Libelta A/B‑1 Lubrańskiego I‑2/3 Ludgardy C‑2 Łady E‑2 Łaskarza J‑3 Łazienna H‑3/4 Łąkowa G‑4 Łucznicza I‑5 Majakowskiego J/K‑4 Małachowskiego J‑2 Małe Garbary D‑1 Małeckiego E‑5 Małopolska E‑1 Mansfelda E‑2/3 Mariacka K‑1 Masztalarska C‑1 Mazowiecka E‑1 Mączna E‑2 Mickiewicza E‑3 Mielżyńskiego B‑1 Młyńska B‑1 Mokra D‑1 Mostowa D‑2 Murna C‑2 Muśnickiego D‑3

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Mylna E‑2 Na Podgórniku G/H‑2 Na Szańcach H/I‑1 Nad Bogdanką E‑2 Nad Wierzbakiem E‑1 Niedziałkowskiego F/G‑5 Noskowskiego F‑2/3 Nowowiejskiego B‑1/2 Ogrodowa C‑3 Ostrów Tumski I‑3 Ostrówek I‑3 Owsiana F/G‑1 Paderewskiego C‑2 Panny Marii I‑2/3 Pasaż Apollo G‑4 Piaskowa H‑3 Piastowska H‑5 Piekary B‑3 Pl. Andersa G‑4 Pl. Wolności B/C‑2 Podgórna C/D‑2/3 Podolska E‑1 Podwale J‑2/3 Powstańców Wielkopolskich A‑3 Poznańska E‑2 Północna H‑2 Półwiejska C‑3 Prużańska K‑5 Przemysłowa F‑5 Przepadek G‑2 Przystań I‑4 Pszenna G‑1 Pułaskiego F‑2 Ratajczaka B‑2/3 Ratuszowa C‑2 Roosevelta E/F‑3 Rybaki C‑3 Rynkowa C‑1/2 Serafitek I‑4/5 Sienkiewicza E‑3 Sieroca C‑2 Składowa A‑3 Skośna F‑3 Sochaczewska F‑1 Sokoła E‑1 Solna G‑3 Sowia J‑5 Spadzista G‑5 Stary Rynek C/D‑2 Stawna D‑1 Strusia E‑5 Strzałkowskiego E‑2/3 Strzałowa C‑3

Strzelecka C‑3 Szelągowska I‑1 Szewska D‑1 Szkolna C‑2 Szymańskiego C‑3 Śląska E‑1 Ślusarska D‑2 Śródka I/J‑3 św. Czesława F/G‑5 św. Jacka I‑3 św. Marcin A/B‑2/3 św. Marii Magdaleny D‑3 św. Michała J/K‑3 św. Wawrzyńca E‑2 św. Wojciech G‑3 Święcickiego E‑4 Świętojańska J‑3 Świętosławska D‑2 Święty Marcin F/G‑3 Taczaka A/B‑3 Taylora A‑2/3 Topolowa H/I‑3 Warszawska J‑3 Wąska E‑2 Wenecjańska H‑3 Weteranów I‑5 Wielka D‑2 Wieniawskiego A‑1 Wierzbięcice F‑5 Wierzbowa H‑4 Wieżowa I‑3 Winogrady G‑1 Wodna D‑2 Wojska Polskiego E‑1 Wolnica C‑1 Wołyńska E‑1 Woźna D‑2 Wrocławska C‑2 Wroniecka D‑1 Wszystkich Świętych D‑3 Wysoka B/C‑3 Za Bramką D‑3 Za Cytadelą G/H‑1 Zachodnia E‑4/5 Zagórze I‑3 Zamkowa C‑1 Zdrojowa K‑3 Zeylanda E‑3 Zielona D‑3 Żniwna G‑1 Żydowska D‑1

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Index 3 Kolory 27 1956 Uprising Monument 67 1956 Uprising Museum 8, 67 Adrenaline Alpine Coaster 73 Angielka Cafe and Lunch 40 Antykwariat 76 Antykwariat Naukowy 76 Apartamenty Velvet 86 Archdiocese Museum 61 Archeological Museum 56 Avocado Restaurant & Wine 27 Bar a Boo 32 Basilium 44, 75 Bazar 1838 35 Bistro La Cocotte 25 Blow Up Hall 5050 27, 44, 82 Blubry6D 71 Blue Note Jazz Club 44 British Military Cemetery 63 Brovaria 28, 41, 44, 83 Browar Pub 44 Cafe Stragan 40 Campanile 84 Capital Apartments 86 Casa de Vinos 48 Cepelia 76 Ceramika Bolesławiecka 78 Chłopskie Jadło 35 CHMIELNIK 45 Church of the Virgin Mary 61 City Guide Poznań 52 City Information Centre 52 City Park Hotel & Residence 82 Classico Apartments 86 Cocorico 40 Concordia Taste 28 Cooliozum 45

Cuba Libre 48 Czarna Owca 48 Czekolada 49 Czerwona Papryka 37 Dąbrowskiego 42 28 Dark Restaurant 38 Da Vinci Caffe 40 Deep Go Go 49 Delicja 28 Don Prestige 83 Drukarnia Skład Wina & Chleba Poznań 26 Dubliner 45 Empik 76 Explorer Hostel 86 FACTORY Outlet 78 Fajna Ukrajna 38 Falstart 45 Figaro 32 Flavoria 29 ForForm 76 Franciscan Church 53 Francuski Łącznik 26 Fusion Hostel 86 Fusion Restaurant 26, 41 Galeria Malta 78 Galeria MM 78 Galeria YES 75 Garden Boutique Residence 84 GearUP! 70 Genius Loci Archeological Park 61 Gniezno Archdiocese Museum 68 Gniezno Cathedral 69 GOKO Restauracja Japońska 33 Gold 86

Green Hotel 86 Green Way 38 Harmonia SPA 71 Headless Figures 63 Historical Museum of Poznań 56 Hotel 222 84 Hotel ForZa 84 Hotel Kolegiacki 83 Hotel Korel 85 Hotel Księcia Józefa 85 Hotel Moderno 83 Hotel Poznański 85 Hotel Ramka 86 Hotel Regatta 83 Hotel Solei Golf 83 HP Park 83 Hygieia 54 IBB Andersia Hotel 82 Ibis 85 Ikar 85 INEA Stadium 59 JE SUS 38 Kartell Flagstore 76 Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice 46 Kontenerart 47 Kriek Belgian Pub & Cafe 46 Kulka Cafe 40 KulTour.pl 52 KURO by Panamo 34 KWADRAT Vegan Bistro & Cafe 39 Kyokai Sushi Bar 34 Labija 35 La Guitarra 86 LAS 48 Lavenda Gastro & Cafe 29

Lech 85 Lech Visitor Centre 58 Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus 53 Le Targ 29 Let Me Out 71 Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz 56 Ludwiku do Rondla 34 Lugana 32 Magnum Shooting Range 70 Malta Festival 73 Maltanka Mini Railway 73 Maltese Baths 8, 72 Manekin 29 Mat's 83 Melody Hostel 86 Mercure Poznań Centrum 84 Milano Ristorante 33 Ministerstwo Browaru 46 Misa Lisa 39 MIŚ Gastro Bar 46 MK Bowling 70 Młyńskie Koło 35, 85 Models of Poznań 57 Moliera 2 Bazar Poznański 76 Mollini 33 Monument of the 15th Poznań Lancers Regiment 54 Monument of the Polish Underground State & Home Army 54 Monument to the Heroes of the Poznan Citadel 63 Monument to the Victims of Katyń & Siberia 55 Mrowisko 46 Museum of Armaments 63 Museum of the Origins of the Polish State 68 Mykonos Grecka Tawerna 26 National Museum 58 NH Poznań 82 Novotel Poznań Centrum 84 Novotel Poznań Malta 84 Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 35 Off Garbary 48 Oskoma 36 Pacha 49 Pad Thai 37 Paintball Fort Dębiec 70 PETIT PARIS Boulangerie 41 Pharmacy Museum 57 Piano Bar 47 Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe 33 Piece of Cake 41 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 47 Platinum Palace Apartments

Townhouses soaking up the sun on a fine day Photo by © Mariusz Prusaczyk | dollar photo club

90 Poznań In Your Pocket

poznan.inyourpocket.com

Index 86 Platinum Palace Residence 84 Poco Loco Hostel 86 Pod Lampionami 41 Pod Nosem 41 Pod Pręgierzem 30 Pomarańczarnia 86 Porannik 41 Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island 60 Poznań Army Museum 64 Poznań Bamber Museum 58 Poznań Cathedral 61 Poznan City Center 78 Poznań Croissant Museum 8, 58 Pracownia 39 Projekt Iwona Rychlewicz 76 Projekt Kuchnia 30, 41 Przy Bamberce 36 Ptasie Radio 41 PURO Hotel Poznań 84 Pyrland Park 73 Quality System - Hotel Poznań 85 Racja Mięsa 36 Ratuszova 36 Regatta Wellness & Spa 72 Restauracja Momo 30 Restauracja MUGA 30 Rezydencja Solei B&B 85 Rose Garden 64 Rosemary's Hostel 86 Royal 84 Rzymski 85 Salon Posnania 78 Sheraton Poznan Hotel 82 Shisha Beirut 47 Shivaz 27 Sleep In Hostel & Apartments 86 Słodkie Czary Mary 76 Soda Hostel & Apartments 86 SomePlace Else 25, 47 SPOT. 31 SQ 49 St. Adalbert's Church 53 Stare Miasto 85 Stary Browar 78 Stary Marych 55 Steak&Grill 31

Świat Bursztynu 75 Świńskie Uszy 31 Taczaka 20 42 Targowisko Jeżyckie 75 Targowisko Wielkopolskie 75 Thai Fast Wok 37 Thai-Land Massage 72 Thai Smile Massage 72 Thai SPA 72 The Bell of Peace and Friendship Among Nations 64 The Imperial Castle 55 The New Zoo 73 The Old Town Hall 53 The Old Zoo 71 The Royal Castle 54 Topaz 85 Tourist Information Centre 52 Tramwajarz 39 Twoja Stara 48 Un Pot 42 Very Berry Hostel 86 Vine Bridge 31 Vinylgate Recordstore 76 VisitPoznań 52 Vivaldi 84 Wagon Mięsa 25 Warto nad Wartą 36 Weranda Lunch & Wine 32 Whisky Bar 88 47 Why Thai Food & Wine 38 Wiejskie Jadło 36 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum 59 Wielkopolska Military Museum 59 Wielkopolska Uprising Monument 66 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum 66 W. Kruk 75 Woodrow Wilson 55 Wspólny Stół 36 Yeżyce Kuchnia 37 Zemsta Anarchist Bookshop & Club 42 Zielona Weranda 42 Zindo Sushi Korean - Japanese Restaurant 34

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New 3D street mural just beyond Ostrów Tumski in Środka (ul. Śródka 3, I-3).

FEATURES INDEX 1945 Battle of Poznań 64 Breakfast 41 Currency exchange 80 Dark Restaurant 38 Disco POLO! 84 Easter in Poland 30 Editor's Note 12 Facts & Figures 14 INEA Stadium 59 Kontenerart 47 Language Smarts 15 Lech Visitors Centre 58 Market Values 14 Markets 75 Off Garbary 48 Polish Vodka 46 Poznań in 24 Hours / 3 Days 6 Poznań IYP online 86 Poznań Tourist Card 12 Poznań Trade Fairs 56 Taczaka Street 44 The Imperial Castle 55 The old Town Hall 53 The Old Town Square 52 The Piasts 17 The Royal Castle 54 Useful Transport Apps 11 World War II Poznan 57 March - June 2016

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Rose Garden

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Citadel Park i

Museum of Armaments

Garrison Cemetery

Lake Rusałka

Soviet Soldiers Cemetery British Military Cemetery Poznań Army Museum

Cam pan ile

Soda Poznań Puro Hotel Garden Boutique Hotel

Old Zoo Mat‘s Poz Ławnań Airpoica rt

Kolegiacki

Fusion Gaja

Melody

Sheraton Poznań

La Guitarra NH Poznań

Explorer Poco Loco

POZNAŃ INTERNATIONAL FAIR STA

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City Park Hotel & Residence Poznań City Centre

ATY I

Stary Browar Blow Up Hall IBB Andersia Park Drwęskich

H Tw otel ard ow sk i

Fancy House

ŁAW AM

Włoski

Moderno

Rosemary’s

0m

175 m

350 m

525 m

Porta Posnania Jorda Bridgen

L a k e

Mal tank aM ini Ra ilway

M

Maltese Baths

a l t a

HP Park

A2 HIGHWAY

0m

80 m

160 m

Philharmonic

Imperial Castle-Zamek Cultural Centre

Great Theatre

240 m

NH Poznań

Fusion

Cinnamon

Poco Loco

Polish Theatre

La Guitarra

Pharmacy

National Museum

Don Prestige

Stare Miasto

Frolic Goats

Cameleon Rosemary's

Melody

Sleep in Hostel Brovaria

Royal Castle

Kolegiacki

Garden Boutique Hotel

Puro Hotel

Explorer