Podgorica In Your Pocket

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Tour Podgorica’s top statues

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Montenegro’s prime coastal resort

N°2 - €2 www.inyourpocket.com

Contents

3

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Contents Arriving in Podgorica

5

Basics

6

Happy landings

Electricity, Driving, Money etc.

9 History From Slavic immigration to independence

Language

10

Culture & Events

11

Where to stay

12

Getting to grips with the lingo Just the ticket

Presidential suites to bunk beds

Dining & Nightlife

Statue at the Modern Art Gallery

Where to eat Traditional food and all the rest

16

Cafés Where to find the best espresso

22

Nightlife The best bars and clubs

23

Sightseeing

Essential things to see and do

Sco

26

29 Kotor Montenegro’s magnificent fortified town

Budva

32

Getting around

36

Mail & Phones

40

Shopping

41

Capital of the coast When legs just aren’t enough Keeping in touch

The best bargains

44 Directory All the other things you need to know

Maps & Index

Country map City map City centre map Index Street register

46 47 48 50 50

Dazzling ceiling frescoes in the new Cathedral JvM

November 2010 - April 2011

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

4

arriving in podgoriCa

Foreword When we launched Podgorica In Your Pocket last spring, little did we know how enthusiastically people would react to the Montenegrin capital’s first English language city guide. The guides were gratefully used by both locals and travellers, the Podgorica In Your Pocket website counter is steadily heading for 60,000 page views this year, and nearly 4,000 copies of the free PDF version have been downloaded from www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com. The enthusiastic reception and the increased support of local businesses has allowed us to expand the content for this second edition. Podgorica In Your Pocket now has many more reviews and a brand new section about the beautiful coastal town of Budva. Our research elves have been digging up fascinating facts about Podgorica’s many statues and monuments, and you’ll find the results on page 26. We’ll keep adding to this in future editions, as what Podgorica lacks in looks, it makes up for in the statue department. After you sample the city, let us know at podgorica@ inyourpocket.com what your favourite places are, as from spring we’ll start counting votes in In Your Pocket’s ‘Best of Podgorica’ poll; see page 8 for more. Finally, if you’re a mobile person like most locals, keep an eye out for the Podgorica In Your Pocket iPhone app, which will be released this autumn and offers all reviews in this guide and more as a simple download – and linked to live or offline GPS mapping. Whatever you do this winter, enjoy Podgorica. In Your Pocket is once again breaking new ground.

Europe In Your Pocket

Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides around, we have recently gone Swiss with a move into Switzerland. The first issue of Zurich In Your Pocket The ‘After Rain’ cover photo wasis now out, providing visitors to the Swiss commercial taken by young Podgorica pho-capital with all the usual essential information an In tographer Miroslav Jovović, andYour Pocket guide provides. We also recently took shows the Morača river as seenthe wraps off Prizren In Your Pocket, a guide to the from the Vezirov Most bridge,second largest city in Kosovo, produced in cooperation just north of the city centre. The with Cultural Heritage Without Borders. You can photo has been enhanced using download a free PDF copy of all our guides at our pseudo-HDR technique, creating website, inyourpocket.com. To keep up with all In a high dynamic range image from Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket one raw file. For more details, conon Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow tact Miroslav at miroslav.jovovic@ us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). hotmail.com.

Cover story

Editorial Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Podgorica In Editorial management Your Pocket 2010/2011. Maps copyright Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES cartographer. All rights reserved. No part Contributor Marina Roganović of this publication may be reproduced in Podgorica In Your Pocket Research Dragan Lakočević any form, except brief extracts for © Albania Experience Sh.P.K Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė the purpose of review, without written Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, pall. 11/1, kati 6, Rentapocket.com Photos permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Tirana, Albania Maps Intersistem, Belgrade Pocket is used under license from UAB Tel +355 4 225 17 84, Cover photo Miroslav Jovović In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius, Fax +355 4 227 19 60 Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). The Podgorica In Your Pocket team [email protected] would like to thank the tourism offices www.inyourpocket.com Editor’s note of Podgorica, Budva and Kotor for their Montenegro office: The editorial content of In Your Pocket kind help. PgIYP, c/o Marko Mirović, Goričani bb, guides is independent from paid-for 81304 Golubovci, Montenegro Sales & Circulation advertising. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have Manager Marko Mirović made every effort to ensure the accuracy ISSN 1800-7929 marko.mirović@inyourpocket.com of the information at the time of going to Printing Evropa92, Kochani, tel. +382 69 55 67 95 press and assume no responsibility for Macedonia Publishers Gazmend Haxhia, Jeroen changes and errors. Published 10,000 copies, twice a yearvan Marle, Sco

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

5

Street smarts

Podgorica and Montenegro in general remain expensive destinations to fly to. If you’re counting pennies, do what smart people do and fly into Dubrovnik just over the border in Croatia. Buses filter in from everywhere, Below and theis a list of Montenegrin street and place names. guide we’ve left the word ulica (street) out of train journey from Belgrade through the mountainsIn is this a addresses, as is common practice locally. delightful introduction to the country. You’ll often see bb written in addresses, this means bez broja, ‘no number’, and it’s probably an obvious buildin along the street. Podgorica’s small but modern airport (aerodrom) is 8km Highway southwest of the city along the road to Bar. ThereAutoput is no Boulevard public transport to town, but Montenegro AirlinesBulevar runs a Most a Bridge bus service to Trg Republike, the main square, departing Road short while after each of their flight arrivals. TicketsPut cost €3 Trg Square and can be bought on the bus. Taking a taxi from outside Street the terminal to the city centre will cost around €20,Ulica but just €5-10 if you call one of the local companies. If you’re arriving at Tivat airport, a taxi to Podgorica will take about 80 minutes and costs €40-50, depending on your bargaining skills. You can also wait along the road for buses going south (to your right) to Budva and on to Podgorica, though you may need to wait a while.

By plane

By train

Train travellers from Belgrade or Bar disembark at Podgorica’s train station, on the eastern edge of the city. The station building only holds ticket offices and a restaurant, so for ATMs, kiosks and other services walk across the street to the bus station. To get to the city centre, hail a taxi for about €2 or hop on bus N°6 which trundles to the Crna Gora hotel. Alternatively, it’s a 15-minute walk along Oktobarske Revolucije, then right down Bratstva-Jedinstva. Buses N°7 and 4 run to the Novi Grad district.

By bus

Located right in front of the train station, Podgorica’s bus station is a marvellous arrival point. Equipped with ATMs, a minimarket, a superb little buffet restaurant, a post office and a garderoba for leaving luggage (open 05:00-22:00, €2 per item), it has all you need to get ready forPodgorica’s your as- train station sault on the city. See Arriving by train for directions to the city centre.

Tourist information

JvM

Districts

Although small, Podgorica has several distinct districts. Nova Varoš (New Town) is the modern city centre, a The national tourism infor- regular grid of streets set between the Morača and mation number, tel. 1300, Ribnica rivers. This area has the densest concentrais a handy one to save on tion of shops, restaurants and nightlife options, and your mobile. They can answervarious streets and squares have been pedestrianised questions on all aspects of or otherwise upgraded in recent years. Stara Varoš travel and tourism for all of (Old Town), south of the two rivers’ confluence, is the Montenegro, 24 hours per city’s original old town area – although little remains day. Normal telephone costs of the bustle of yesteryear. Ottoman-era landmarks here include the Clock Tower surrounded by a small apply. bazaar, the fortress and two small mosques. A kiloTourism Board of Podgorica (TOP) E-2, Slobode metre west of the city centre, the Novi Grad (New 47, tel. +382 20 66 75 35, fax +382 20 66 75 City) district, informally and better known as Pre 36, [email protected], www.podgorica.travel. Right Morače (Across the Morača), is Podgorica’s brand new business district. Originally a residential suburb next to the Carine restaurant, the city’s friendly tourist with information office does its best to inform you about alluniform highrise apartment buildings, in the last decade three sights in town and the plethora of interesting trips it’s seen massive investment and now has various new developments including offices, hotels, in the surroundings. They have informative brochures restaurants and shops. Finally, the leafy and a good city map and can help book you a cityupmarket tour Pod Goricom (Below the hill) district, curled around or daytrip. Q June-Oct: open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 Gorica hill east of the city centre, is home to many - 13:00, closed Sun. Nov-May: open 08:00 - 16:00, embassies. closed Sat, Sun.

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

4

arriving in podgoriCa

Foreword When we launched Podgorica In Your Pocket last spring, little did we know how enthusiastically people would react to the Montenegrin capital’s first English language city guide. The guides were gratefully used by both locals and travellers, the Podgorica In Your Pocket website counter is steadily heading for 60,000 page views this year, and nearly 4,000 copies of the free PDF version have been downloaded from www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com. The enthusiastic reception and the increased support of local businesses has allowed us to expand the content for this second edition. Podgorica In Your Pocket now has many more reviews and a brand new section about the beautiful coastal town of Budva. Our research elves have been digging up fascinating facts about Podgorica’s many statues and monuments, and you’ll find the results on page 26. We’ll keep adding to this in future editions, as what Podgorica lacks in looks, it makes up for in the statue department. After you sample the city, let us know at podgorica@ inyourpocket.com what your favourite places are, as from spring we’ll start counting votes in In Your Pocket’s ‘Best of Podgorica’ poll; see page 8 for more. Finally, if you’re a mobile person like most locals, keep an eye out for the Podgorica In Your Pocket iPhone app, which will be released this autumn and offers all reviews in this guide and more as a simple download – and linked to live or offline GPS mapping. Whatever you do this winter, enjoy Podgorica. In Your Pocket is once again breaking new ground.

Europe In Your Pocket

Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides around, we have recently gone Swiss with a move into Switzerland. The first issue of Zurich In Your Pocket The ‘After Rain’ cover photo wasis now out, providing visitors to the Swiss commercial taken by young Podgorica pho-capital with all the usual essential information an In tographer Miroslav Jovović, andYour Pocket guide provides. We also recently took shows the Morača river as seenthe wraps off Prizren In Your Pocket, a guide to the from the Vezirov Most bridge,second largest city in Kosovo, produced in cooperation just north of the city centre. The with Cultural Heritage Without Borders. You can photo has been enhanced using download a free PDF copy of all our guides at our pseudo-HDR technique, creating website, inyourpocket.com. To keep up with all In a high dynamic range image from Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket one raw file. For more details, conon Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow tact Miroslav at miroslav.jovovic@ us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). hotmail.com.

Cover story

Editorial Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Podgorica In Editorial management Your Pocket 2010/2011. Maps copyright Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES cartographer. All rights reserved. No part Contributor Marina Roganović of this publication may be reproduced in Podgorica In Your Pocket Research Dragan Lakočević any form, except brief extracts for © Albania Experience Sh.P.K Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė the purpose of review, without written Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, pall. 11/1, kati 6, Rentapocket.com Photos permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Tirana, Albania Maps Intersistem, Belgrade Pocket is used under license from UAB Tel +355 4 225 17 84, Cover photo Miroslav Jovović In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius, Fax +355 4 227 19 60 Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). The Podgorica In Your Pocket team [email protected] would like to thank the tourism offices www.inyourpocket.com Editor’s note of Podgorica, Budva and Kotor for their Montenegro office: The editorial content of In Your Pocket kind help. PgIYP, c/o Marko Mirović, Goričani bb, guides is independent from paid-for 81304 Golubovci, Montenegro Sales & Circulation advertising. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have Manager Marko Mirović made every effort to ensure the accuracy ISSN 1800-7929 marko.mirović@inyourpocket.com of the information at the time of going to Printing Evropa92, Kochani, tel. +382 69 55 67 95 press and assume no responsibility for Macedonia Publishers Gazmend Haxhia, Jeroen changes and errors. Published 10,000 copies, twice a yearvan Marle, Sco

Podgorica In Your Pocket

6

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

BasiCs Headlights must be switched on at all times. Unleaded petrol and diesel are relatively cheap at €1,10 and €1 per litre respectively. Parking your car in Podgorica is perfectly safe (if you can find a spot). There are several guarded car parks, the best ones are close to the city centre along Stanka Dragojevica (€0.20-0.50 per hour).

Eco-tax

The zelena pijaca market

Communism

JvM

In a marvellous scheme to milk foreigners, all vehicles entering Montenegro are subject to a so-called ecotax. Passenger vehicles are charged €10 at the border, and receive a sticker valid for one year. Motorbikes are exempt. Funds raised are used for reforestation, protecting the environment and related things like building sports grounds and lining people’s pockets. For more information see www.ecotax-montenegro.gov.me. Insist on getting a receipt to make sure the funds actually reach the state.

Electricity

The communist era was a dark age for many countries Montenegrin domestic electricity is 220V AC, 50 Hertz, in Europe, but many older people in Montenegro supplied fondly through standard European two-pin sockets. tell stories of how good it was when called each other comrade (druže) and lived in the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, a country with something to say on the world stage. But apart from some statues and buildings, the visible Public displays of homosexuality are not tolerated and gay communist legacy is disappearing fast. Even Titovisitors had his should be careful to avoid hostile reactions. Even in boulevard renamed after a saint. big-city Podgorica there’s little tolerance, and there are as yet no gay bars or clubs.

Gay & Lesbian

Disabled travellers

Basic data

Public transport is not equipped for disabled travellers yet, but most pedestrian crossings in town now have sloped kerbs, and the main crossings in the centre have sound Population signalling systems for the blind. Many restaurants and cafés 626,188 Podgorica 142,500 (2007) are unfortunately still inaccessible for wheelchairMontenegro users. Hotels with facilities for the disabled are marked with the Ethnic composition wheelchair symbol in this guide. Montenegrins 43% Serbs 32% Bosniaks 8% Albanians 3% other 14%

Driving

Territory Getting around the country by car is fast and efficient, 13,812 square kilometres though driving can be manic; beware for dare-devils overtaking in bends. Montenegro’s roads are generally Borders well-kept and easy to navigate, though a good map is 293km Albania 172km Bosnia 255km Adriatic handy if you’re headed to remote destinations. The 14km Kosovo 60km Serbia 143km Croatia maximum speed in Montenegro is 50km/hr in towns Longest river and villages, 80km/hr on other roads unless indicated Tara (Drina) 144km (110km in Montenegro) otherwise. There are no highways in Montenegro.

Climate

Largest lake Skadar 370-530 square kilometres (shared with Albania. Size depends on water level) Highest point Bobotov Kuk (Durmitor) 2,523m Longest beach: Velika Plaža, Ulcinj 13km UNESCO World Heritage sites Durmitor National Park, Kotor old town, Kotor Bay, Tara Canyon Local time GMT+1 Daylight saving time between the last Sundays of March and October.

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

5

Street smarts

Podgorica and Montenegro in general remain expensive destinations to fly to. If you’re counting pennies, do what smart people do and fly into Dubrovnik just over the border in Croatia. Buses filter in from everywhere, Below and theis a list of Montenegrin street and place names. guide we’ve left the word ulica (street) out of train journey from Belgrade through the mountainsIn is this a addresses, as is common practice locally. delightful introduction to the country. You’ll often see bb written in addresses, this means bez broja, ‘no number’, and it’s probably an obvious buildin along the street. Podgorica’s small but modern airport (aerodrom) is 8km Highway southwest of the city along the road to Bar. ThereAutoput is no Boulevard public transport to town, but Montenegro AirlinesBulevar runs a Most a Bridge bus service to Trg Republike, the main square, departing Road short while after each of their flight arrivals. TicketsPut cost €3 Trg Square and can be bought on the bus. Taking a taxi from outside Street the terminal to the city centre will cost around €20,Ulica but just €5-10 if you call one of the local companies. If you’re arriving at Tivat airport, a taxi to Podgorica will take about 80 minutes and costs €40-50, depending on your bargaining skills. You can also wait along the road for buses going south (to your right) to Budva and on to Podgorica, though you may need to wait a while.

By plane

By train

Train travellers from Belgrade or Bar disembark at Podgorica’s train station, on the eastern edge of the city. The station building only holds ticket offices and a restaurant, so for ATMs, kiosks and other services walk across the street to the bus station. To get to the city centre, hail a taxi for about €2 or hop on bus N°6 which trundles to the Crna Gora hotel. Alternatively, it’s a 15-minute walk along Oktobarske Revolucije, then right down Bratstva-Jedinstva. Buses N°7 and 4 run to the Novi Grad district.

By bus

Located right in front of the train station, Podgorica’s bus station is a marvellous arrival point. Equipped with ATMs, a minimarket, a superb little buffet restaurant, a post office and a garderoba for leaving luggage (open 05:00-22:00, €2 per item), it has all you need to get ready forPodgorica’s your as- train station sault on the city. See Arriving by train for directions to the city centre.

Tourist information

JvM

Districts

Although small, Podgorica has several distinct districts. Nova Varoš (New Town) is the modern city centre, a The national tourism infor- regular grid of streets set between the Morača and mation number, tel. 1300, Ribnica rivers. This area has the densest concentrais a handy one to save on tion of shops, restaurants and nightlife options, and your mobile. They can answervarious streets and squares have been pedestrianised questions on all aspects of or otherwise upgraded in recent years. Stara Varoš travel and tourism for all of (Old Town), south of the two rivers’ confluence, is the Montenegro, 24 hours per city’s original old town area – although little remains day. Normal telephone costs of the bustle of yesteryear. Ottoman-era landmarks here include the Clock Tower surrounded by a small apply. bazaar, the fortress and two small mosques. A kiloTourism Board of Podgorica (TOP) E-2, Slobode metre west of the city centre, the Novi Grad (New 47, tel. +382 20 66 75 35, fax +382 20 66 75 City) district, informally and better known as Pre 36, [email protected], www.podgorica.travel. Right Morače (Across the Morača), is Podgorica’s brand new business district. Originally a residential suburb next to the Carine restaurant, the city’s friendly tourist with information office does its best to inform you about alluniform highrise apartment buildings, in the last decade three sights in town and the plethora of interesting trips it’s seen massive investment and now has various new developments including offices, hotels, in the surroundings. They have informative brochures restaurants and shops. Finally, the leafy and a good city map and can help book you a cityupmarket tour Pod Goricom (Below the hill) district, curled around or daytrip. Q June-Oct: open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 Gorica hill east of the city centre, is home to many - 13:00, closed Sun. Nov-May: open 08:00 - 16:00, embassies. closed Sat, Sun.

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

6

BasiCs Headlights must be switched on at all times. Unleaded petrol and diesel are relatively cheap at €1,10 and €1 per litre respectively. Parking your car in Podgorica is perfectly safe (if you can find a spot). There are several guarded car parks, the best ones are close to the city centre along Stanka Dragojevica (€0.20-0.50 per hour).

Eco-tax

The zelena pijaca market

Communism

JvM

In a marvellous scheme to milk foreigners, all vehicles entering Montenegro are subject to a so-called ecotax. Passenger vehicles are charged €10 at the border, and receive a sticker valid for one year. Motorbikes are exempt. Funds raised are used for reforestation, protecting the environment and related things like building sports grounds and lining people’s pockets. For more information see www.ecotax-montenegro.gov.me. Insist on getting a receipt to make sure the funds actually reach the state.

Electricity

The communist era was a dark age for many countries Montenegrin domestic electricity is 220V AC, 50 Hertz, in Europe, but many older people in Montenegro supplied fondly through standard European two-pin sockets. tell stories of how good it was when called each other comrade (druže) and lived in the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, a country with something to say on the world stage. But apart from some statues and buildings, the visible Public displays of homosexuality are not tolerated and gay communist legacy is disappearing fast. Even Titovisitors had his should be careful to avoid hostile reactions. Even in boulevard renamed after a saint. big-city Podgorica there’s little tolerance, and there are as yet no gay bars or clubs.

Gay & Lesbian

Disabled travellers

Basic data

Public transport is not equipped for disabled travellers yet, but most pedestrian crossings in town now have sloped kerbs, and the main crossings in the centre have sound Population signalling systems for the blind. Many restaurants and cafés 626,188 Podgorica 142,500 (2007) are unfortunately still inaccessible for wheelchairMontenegro users. Hotels with facilities for the disabled are marked with the Ethnic composition wheelchair symbol in this guide. Montenegrins 43% Serbs 32% Bosniaks 8% Albanians 3% other 14%

Driving

Territory Getting around the country by car is fast and efficient, 13,812 square kilometres though driving can be manic; beware for dare-devils overtaking in bends. Montenegro’s roads are generally Borders well-kept and easy to navigate, though a good map is 293km Albania 172km Bosnia 255km Adriatic handy if you’re headed to remote destinations. The 14km Kosovo 60km Serbia 143km Croatia maximum speed in Montenegro is 50km/hr in towns Longest river and villages, 80km/hr on other roads unless indicated Tara (Drina) 144km (110km in Montenegro) otherwise. There are no highways in Montenegro. Largest lake Skadar 370-530 square kilometres (shared with Albania. Size depends on water level)

Climate

Highest point Bobotov Kuk (Durmitor) 2,523m Longest beach: Velika Plaža, Ulcinj 13km UNESCO World Heritage sites Durmitor National Park, Kotor old town, Kotor Bay, Tara Canyon Local time GMT+1 Daylight saving time between the last Sundays of March and October.

Podgorica In Your Pocket

8

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

History

BasiCs Purchasing power How far does your euro, pound or dollar go? Taxi from airport to city centre €10 Cinema ticket €3.50 Espresso €0.70-1.10 Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €1.5-2.5 Mineral water (1.5 litre) €0.50 Mars bar €0.45 Public transport ticket €0.30

Exchange rates £1 = €1.13, US$1 = €0.72 (Oct 22, 2010)

Money

Safety

9

by Yugoslav partizans in 1944, during which Podgorica was heavily damaged, Montenegro became a republic within the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. Podgorica became Titograd in honour of President Josip Tito and the city was rebuilt.

Podgorica is a peaceful place and visitors should take no more precautions than for other European cities. With a prevalent and youthful café culture, coffee poisoning and falling in love with a local are currently the biggest threats to foreigners.

The end of Yugoslavia Yugoslavia’s collapse in 1992 meant that Montenegro was left alone with Serbia in the new Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. An unmonitored referendum at the time showed great support among Montenegrins for this, though turnout was low due to boycotts. The Montenegrin police and military joined Serbian troops in the Bosnian and Croatian wars of 1991-1995 and were involved in various campaigns against towns in Croatia (including the bombing of Dubrovnik) and Bosnia. Prime Minister Milo Đukanović started to cut ties with Serbia in 1996, replacing the dinar with the German Mark (and later the euro) to loosen economic ties with Belgrade and becoming much more independent. During NATO’s 1 Kosovo campaign, Montenegro was also targeted though damage was limited.

Smoking

Visitors to restaurants and bars will see plenty of no-smoking signs and a number of non-smoking areas, but unfortunately the locals’ rebellious spirit and tobacco addictions mean that these are widely ignored. We’ve indicated which places have (nominal) no-smoking areas in this guide.

Toilets

There are few public toilets in Podgorica. One can be found in the park by the Crna Gora hotel. In case of emergency, most bars and restaurants will let you use theirs if you ask nicely.

Visas

Montenegro’s official currency is the euro (€), which is divided into 100 cents. Euro bills come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500 euros. Coins come in denominations For stays of up to 90 days, visas are not required for citizens of €2, €1, €0.50, €0.20, €0.10, €0.05 and €0.01. Montenegro of the EU, Western and many other countries. All others need unilaterally decided to switch from the Yugoslav dinar a visa, to the although those with valid Schengen (EU) visas or US German mark in 1999 for fear of economic destabilisation visas may by stay visa-free for up to seven days. Serbia. It adopted the euro when the currency was introduced in 2002. Although Montenegro doesn’t have a monetary agreement with the European Central Bank and does not have issuing rights, the EU recognises the stabilising influence Tap water of the can safely be consumed in Podgorica. Bottled water currency, and does not object to Montenegro using it.isEuros widely areavailable, and you can support the local economy by best obtained from ATMs where EU account holders buying should be good Montenegrin brands like include Aqua Bianca, charged the same transaction fees as in their homeAqua country. Monta and Suza. Alternatively, change at a bank (ID required).

To independence While tensions with Serbia remained, Montenegro continued on the path towards separation. The Federal Republic of Yugoslavia was replaced by the union of Serbia and Montenegro in 2003, but soon enough the peaceful and fair EU-monitored referendum in 2006 showed a 55% majority in favour of complete independence from Serbia. Montenegro subsequently became independent on June 3, 2006. Tensions remain as Montenegrin and Serbian identity are closely interwoven. Since independence Montenegro has seen great economic growth, particularly in the tourism and construction sectors St. George’s church JvM as a liberal land ownership policy allowed foreigners to buy land with few restrictions. Especially Russian investors took advantage of the opportunity, and Budva and other Prostitution and drug use are illegal in Montenegro. Plain- Ancient history coastal resorts see many Russian tourists in summer. The Foreigners spending the night in Montenegro officially clothes need police will have no second thoughts about arresting The oldest known inhabitants of what is now Montenegro economy to be registered. Most hotels will take care of this and forcharging you. foreigners. were the Illyrian tribes who were subdued by the Romans took a hit during the world financial crisis and tourism in 9AD and then marginalised by the mass immigration of numbers dropped, though long-term prospects Annoyingly, visitors staying at hostels, guesthouses and with are good. locals may need to register themselves with the police to Slavs in the fifth and sixth centuries. The principality of still Duklja avoid possible trouble when leaving the country – we’ve had that the Slavic newcomers founded became independent from the Byzantine Empire in 1042 and soon became a reports of fines and other hassles. Buy a registration card kingdom, expanding to incorporate surrounding areas. In the (Prijava boravišta stranaca) at any office supply shop for It’s time for the readers of Podgorica In Your Pocket to make their voices heard. In 2011 we will hold the grand ‘Best of €0.50, and perhaps also check with the Tourist Information early medieval era the region was ruled alternatively by local Podgorica’ readers’ poll. In order to draft the shortlist of Office if the bureaucratic fossils of the Montenegrin state families and the medieval Serbian state until the Ottomans candidates we need your feedback. What is your favourite occupied the region in 1499. really still need to know your whereabouts. place in Podgorica for local or Italian food, for a snack, for drinks, or to stay the night? Write to us at podgorica@ The Ottoman era inyourpocket.com to let us know. Montenegro remained relatively autonomous within the The categories are... The major religion in Montenegro is Orthodox Christianity. Ottoman empire, with local noble families allowed to rule Best Montenegrin restaurant Other important religious communities are Islam, especially the area with little interference. Despite this, the occupation Best Italian restaurant in the Albanian-inhabited area around Ulcinj, and Catholicism. was never accepted and several uprisings occurred until the Bestgrew international restaurant Ottomans were finally defeated in the late 17th century. After independence, the Montenegrin Orthodox Church Best fast food restaurant Under Prince-Bishops Petar I and II Petrović-Njegoš, to encompass about 30 per cent of all Orthodox believers, Montenegro unified and became a theocracy though it is not recognised by the Orthodox ChurchBest yet. burek shop Best pizza restaurant Best café/bar 20th century Best club Nicholas I greatly expanded and modernised the principality Best cultural institution in the 20th century, winning recognition of independence Best Podgorica sight from the Ottoman Empire in 1878. The constitution is signed January 1-3 New Year’s Day Best daytrip destination in 1905, the country becomes a kingdom in 1910, and January 7 Orthodox Christmas Best Montenegro beach Cetinje quickly becomes more important as Montenegro’s April 22 (2011) Good Friday Best shopping centre capital, with a succession of embassies established there. April 24-26 (2011) Easter Best business hotel Montenegro started the Balkan Wars of 1912 and 1913 May 1 Labour Day Best leisure hotel to definitely expel the Ottomans from the region, and joined May 21 Independence Day Best hotel outside Podgorica Serbia in the First World War. In 1918, the country was added Best conference venue July 13 Statehood Day to Serbia and remained so until the country was invaded and declared independent by the Nazis in 1941. After liberation The Bomb memorial JvM

Water

Registration

Vice

The Best of Podgorica

Religion

National holidays

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

8

History

BasiCs Purchasing power

Safety

How far does your euro, pound or dollar go? Taxi from airport to city centre €10 Cinema ticket €3.50 Espresso €0.70-1.10 Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €1.5-2.5 Mineral water (1.5 litre) €0.50 Mars bar €0.45 Public transport ticket €0.30

Exchange rates £1 = €1.13, US$1 = €0.72 (Oct 22, 2010)

Money

9

by Yugoslav partizans in 1944, during which Podgorica was heavily damaged, Montenegro became a republic within the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. Podgorica became Titograd in honour of President Josip Tito and the city was rebuilt.

Podgorica is a peaceful place and visitors should take no more precautions than for other European cities. With a prevalent and youthful café culture, coffee poisoning and falling in love with a local are currently the biggest threats to foreigners.

The end of Yugoslavia Yugoslavia’s collapse in 1992 meant that Montenegro was left alone with Serbia in the new Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. An unmonitored referendum at the time showed great support among Montenegrins for this, though turnout was low due to boycotts. The Montenegrin police and military joined Serbian troops in the Bosnian and Croatian wars of 1991-1995 and were involved in various campaigns against towns in Croatia (including the bombing of Dubrovnik) and Bosnia. Prime Minister Milo Đukanović started to cut ties with Serbia in 1996, replacing the dinar with the German Mark (and later the euro) to loosen economic ties with Belgrade and becoming much more independent. During NATO’s 1 Kosovo campaign, Montenegro was also targeted though damage was limited.

Smoking

Visitors to restaurants and bars will see plenty of no-smoking signs and a number of non-smoking areas, but unfortunately the locals’ rebellious spirit and tobacco addictions mean that these are widely ignored. We’ve indicated which places have (nominal) no-smoking areas in this guide.

Toilets

There are few public toilets in Podgorica. One can be found in the park by the Crna Gora hotel. In case of emergency, most bars and restaurants will let you use theirs if you ask nicely.

Visas

Montenegro’s official currency is the euro (€), which is divided into 100 cents. Euro bills come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500 euros. Coins come in denominations For stays of up to 90 days, visas are not required for citizens of €2, €1, €0.50, €0.20, €0.10, €0.05 and €0.01. Montenegro of the EU, Western and many other countries. All others need unilaterally decided to switch from the Yugoslav dinar a visa, to the although those with valid Schengen (EU) visas or US German mark in 1999 for fear of economic destabilisation visas may by stay visa-free for up to seven days. Serbia. It adopted the euro when the currency was introduced in 2002. Although Montenegro doesn’t have a monetary agreement with the European Central Bank and does not have issuing rights, the EU recognises the stabilising influence Tap water of the can safely be consumed in Podgorica. Bottled water currency, and does not object to Montenegro using it.isEuros widely areavailable, and you can support the local economy by best obtained from ATMs where EU account holders buying should be good Montenegrin brands like include Aqua Bianca, charged the same transaction fees as in their homeAqua country. Monta and Suza. Alternatively, change at a bank (ID required).

To independence While tensions with Serbia remained, Montenegro continued on the path towards separation. The Federal Republic of Yugoslavia was replaced by the union of Serbia and Montenegro in 2003, but soon enough the peaceful and fair EU-monitored referendum in 2006 showed a 55% majority in favour of complete independence from Serbia. Montenegro subsequently became independent on June 3, 2006. Tensions remain as Montenegrin and Serbian identity are closely interwoven. Since independence Montenegro has seen great economic growth, particularly in the tourism and construction sectors St. George’s church JvM as a liberal land ownership policy allowed foreigners to buy land with few restrictions. Especially Russian investors took advantage of the opportunity, and Budva and other Prostitution and drug use are illegal in Montenegro. Plain- Ancient history coastal resorts see many Russian tourists in summer. The Foreigners spending the night in Montenegro officially clothes need police will have no second thoughts about arresting The oldest known inhabitants of what is now Montenegro economy to be registered. Most hotels will take care of this and forcharging you. foreigners. were the Illyrian tribes who were subdued by the Romans took a hit during the world financial crisis and tourism in 9AD and then marginalised by the mass immigration of numbers dropped, though long-term prospects Annoyingly, visitors staying at hostels, guesthouses and with are good. locals may need to register themselves with the police to Slavs in the fifth and sixth centuries. The principality of still Duklja avoid possible trouble when leaving the country – we’ve had that the Slavic newcomers founded became independent from the Byzantine Empire in 1042 and soon became a reports of fines and other hassles. Buy a registration card kingdom, expanding to incorporate surrounding areas. In the (Prijava boravišta stranaca) at any office supply shop for It’s time for the readers of Podgorica In Your Pocket to make their voices heard. In 2011 we will hold the grand ‘Best of €0.50, and perhaps also check with the Tourist Information early medieval era the region was ruled alternatively by local Podgorica’ readers’ poll. In order to draft the shortlist of Office if the bureaucratic fossils of the Montenegrin state families and the medieval Serbian state until the Ottomans candidates we need your feedback. What is your favourite occupied the region in 1499. really still need to know your whereabouts. place in Podgorica for local or Italian food, for a snack, for drinks, or to stay the night? Write to us at podgorica@ The Ottoman era inyourpocket.com to let us know. Montenegro remained relatively autonomous within the The categories are... The major religion in Montenegro is Orthodox Christianity. Ottoman empire, with local noble families allowed to rule Best Montenegrin restaurant Other important religious communities are Islam, especially the area with little interference. Despite this, the occupation Best Italian restaurant in the Albanian-inhabited area around Ulcinj, and Catholicism. was never accepted and several uprisings occurred until the Bestgrew international restaurant Ottomans were finally defeated in the late 17th century. After independence, the Montenegrin Orthodox Church Best fast food restaurant Under Prince-Bishops Petar I and II Petrović-Njegoš, to encompass about 30 per cent of all Orthodox believers, Montenegro unified and became a theocracy though it is not recognised by the Orthodox ChurchBest yet. burek shop Best pizza restaurant Best café/bar 20th century Best club Nicholas I greatly expanded and modernised the principality Best cultural institution in the 20th century, winning recognition of independence Best Podgorica sight from the Ottoman Empire in 1878. The constitution is signed January 1-3 New Year’s Day Best daytrip destination in 1905, the country becomes a kingdom in 1910, and January 7 Orthodox Christmas Best Montenegro beach Cetinje quickly becomes more important as Montenegro’s April 22 (2011) Good Friday Best shopping centre capital, with a succession of embassies established there. April 24-26 (2011) Easter Best business hotel Montenegro started the Balkan Wars of 1912 and 1913 May 1 Labour Day Best leisure hotel to definitely expel the Ottomans from the region, and joined May 21 Independence Day Best hotel outside Podgorica Serbia in the First World War. In 1918, the country was added Best conference venue July 13 Statehood Day to Serbia and remained so until the country was invaded and declared independent by the Nazis in 1941. After liberation The Bomb memorial JvM

Water

Registration

Vice

The Best of Podgorica

Religion

National holidays

Podgorica In Your Pocket

10

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

CuLture & events

Language Practicalities The locals have recently decided to officially name the My name Moje ime je… language they speak Montenegrin. This is a dialect of is... I’m from... Ja sam iz… Serbian that has been promoted as the national language ...UK . ..Velika Britanija since independence in 2006, though many locals still declare ...USA ...Amerika they simply speak Serbian. Whatever you want to call it, I don’t understand Ne razumijem it’s a south Slavic language closely linked to others in the don’thas speak... Ne govorim... region, but with small variations and an alphabetI that Crnogorski/Srpski ... Montenegrin/Serbian two extra letters. name? Kako se ti zoveš?/Kako ti je ime? As in Serbia, both the Latin and Cyrillic can beWhat’s used your to A ticket, Kartu, molim write Montenegrin, though nearly all texts, street names please much does this cost? Koliko ovo košta? and newspapers are in Latin script. While we’reHow on the A ticket, Kartu, molim topic of language, note that people from Montenegro areplease How much does this cost? Koliko ovo košta? not Montenegroes as you sometimes see written, but When? Kada? Montenegrins. Now Sada / Odmah Pronunciation Where? Gdje? Here Ovdje Čč like ch in church There Tamo Ćć similar to č, but softer Who? Ko? DŽ dž like g in George Why? Zašto? Đ/DJ đ/dj like j in jaw What? Šta? Jj like y in yes I have... Ja sam iz... Šš like sh in show I am... Ja sam… Uu like oo in roof Žž like x in luxurious Signs Niceties & Necessities Open Otvoreno Closed Zatvoreno Entrance Ulaz Exit Izlaz Yes Da No Ne Guraj Pull Vuci Hello Zdravo Goodbye Do viđenja Push No smoking Zabranjeno pušenje Good Dobro Please Molim Thank you Hvala Here you are Izvolite Good morning Dobro jutro Good day Dobar dan Numbers 0 - nula 4 - četiri Good evening Dobar veče Good night Laku noć 8 - osam 50 - pedeset 1 - jedan 5 - pet Cheers! Živjeli! All the best! Sve najbolje! 9 - devet 100 - sto 2 - dva Excuse me Oprostite Sorry Izvinite 6 - šest 10 - deset 1000 - hiljadu 3 - tri How are you? Kako si? 20 dvadeset 7 - sedam

11

British Council K-1, Ulcinjska 8, tel. +382 20 61 84

10, fax +382 20 61 84 11, [email protected], www.britishcouncil.me. Promoting English language, arts and the UK. Has a library with reading and viewing materials. Q Open 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

French Cultural Centre (Centre Culturel Français)

D-3, Gojka Radonjića 32, tel. +382 20 62 13 39/+382 78 10 15 79, [email protected], www.ambafranceme.org. Organises French language courses and many cultural events such as French film nights, literary workshops and concerts. Q Open 09:15 - 18:15, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

KIC Budo Tomović (Dom Omladine Budo Tomović)

E-1, Vaka Ðurovica 12, tel. +382 20 66 42 35/+382 20 22 55 87, fax + 382 20 66 42 33, info@kicpodgorica. com, www.kicpodgorica.com. Podgorica’s main youth culture centre, with a neat rooftop terrace for films and concerts. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Libraries

National Library (Narodna Biblioteka Radosav Ljumović) D-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 66 42 17, [email protected], www.nbp.me. Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Q Open 07:00 - 20:00,

Theatres

City Theatre (Gradsko Pozorište) D-2, Bokeška

2, tel. +382 20 66 50 85/+382 20 66 50 87, info@ pgpozoriste.me, www.pgpozoriste.me. Regular plays as well as performances aimed at children.

National Theatre (Crnogorsko Narodno Pozorište)

D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 18, tel./fax +382 20 66 40 82, tel. +382 20 66 40 75, [email protected], www.cnp.me. A Podgorica has a modest but good set of venues forvery culturactive theatre with local and regional plays performed on al events, and a handful of annual festivals, the main ones most nights. Q Box office open Mon-Sat 09:00-13:00, also in July and in December. Like many countries in this daily part from of 17:00 to the start of the performance. Europe, events are planned and announced haphazardly keep an eye on posters and local papers and ask around to find out what’s on during your visit. Underground culture: Karver

JvM

Podgorica Marathon

“The Race Even Marathoners Fear” -The Wall Street Journal, 2010

The 17th edition of the Podgorica Marathon (Podgorički maraton) is held on 31 October 2010. Starting on Trg Republike, the participants run 42 kilometres, across +382 20 41 44 24, www.stermontenegro.com. Montene-the Millennium Bridge and south past the airport, and back the to town via Tuzi. The 21km half marathon starts in gro’s only modern cinema, its Afrikaans name revealing Danilovgrad, northwest of town. The record times to beat franchise’s South African origins, has six screens showing are 2:11:41 for men and 2:31:18 for women. Spectators local films and subtitled Hollywood hits. Monday is student are welcome along the route and on Trg Republike, where night. Q Open 10:00 - 01:00. Tickets €3.50. PA there’s food and entertainment. For more information see www.maraton.co.me.

Cinemas

Ster Cinema G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel.

Concert halls

Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382

20 60 26 25, fax +382 20 60 26 26, [email protected], www.karver.org. A small concert hall and performance space above the Karver bookshop. Entrance is to the left of On 19 December, the Podgorička noć celebrates the libthe main building. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. eration of the city after the Second World War. The Crna Gora Hotel is the scene of a banquet with live music.

The Night Of Podgorica

Cultural centres

American Corner E-1, Vaka Ðurovica 12 (KIC Budo

Tomović), tel. +382 20 66 70 65, amcorner@t-com. me, www.kicpodgorica.com. The US information centre, where you can browse magazines and newspapers. Q Open Fine arts, literature and theatre are celebrated during the 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Banja Cultural Centre E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin DEUS December Art Scene festival, held in December. Expect exhibitions and concerts at KIC Budo Tomović, various brijeg bb, [email protected]. The former Turkish bath, public wedged under a bridge, now houses a bookshop, café, andbuildings and outside on the city squares. internet café. Q Open 18:00 - 20:00.

July 2011 www.theSFmarathon.com

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

December Art Scene festival

November 2010 - April 2011

CuLture & events

Language

10

Practicalities The locals have recently decided to officially name the My name Moje ime je… language they speak Montenegrin. This is a dialect of is... I’m from... Ja sam iz… Serbian that has been promoted as the national language ...UK . ..Velika Britanija since independence in 2006, though many locals still declare ...USA ...Amerika they simply speak Serbian. Whatever you want to call it, I don’t understand Ne razumijem it’s a south Slavic language closely linked to others in the don’thas speak... Ne govorim... region, but with small variations and an alphabetI that Crnogorski/Srpski ... Montenegrin/Serbian two extra letters. name? Kako se ti zoveš?/Kako ti je ime? As in Serbia, both the Latin and Cyrillic can beWhat’s used your to A ticket, Kartu, molim write Montenegrin, though nearly all texts, street names please much does this cost? Koliko ovo košta? and newspapers are in Latin script. While we’reHow on the A ticket, Kartu, molim topic of language, note that people from Montenegro areplease How much does this cost? Koliko ovo košta? not Montenegroes as you sometimes see written, but When? Kada? Montenegrins. Now Sada / Odmah Pronunciation Where? Gdje? Here Ovdje Čč like ch in church There Tamo Ćć similar to č, but softer Who? Ko? DŽ dž like g in George Why? Zašto? Đ/DJ đ/dj like j in jaw What? Šta? Jj like y in yes I have... Ja sam iz... Šš like sh in show I am... Ja sam… Uu like oo in roof Žž like x in luxurious Signs Niceties & Necessities Open Otvoreno Closed Zatvoreno Entrance Ulaz Exit Izlaz Yes Da No Ne Guraj Pull Vuci Hello Zdravo Goodbye Do viđenja Push No smoking Zabranjeno pušenje Good Dobro Please Molim Thank you Hvala Here you are Izvolite Good morning Dobro jutro Good day Dobar dan Numbers 0 - nula 4 - četiri Good evening Dobar veče Good night Laku noć 8 - osam 50 - pedeset 1 - jedan 5 - pet Cheers! Živjeli! All the best! Sve najbolje! 9 - devet 100 - sto 2 - dva Excuse me Oprostite Sorry Izvinite 6 - šest 10 - deset 1000 - hiljadu 3 - tri How are you? Kako si? 20 dvadeset 7 - sedam

11

British Council K-1, Ulcinjska 8, tel. +382 20 61 84

10, fax +382 20 61 84 11, [email protected], www.britishcouncil.me. Promoting English language, arts and the UK. Has a library with reading and viewing materials. Q Open 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

French Cultural Centre (Centre Culturel Français)

D-3, Gojka Radonjića 32, tel. +382 20 62 13 39/+382 78 10 15 79, [email protected], www.ambafranceme.org. Organises French language courses and many cultural events such as French film nights, literary workshops and concerts. Q Open 09:15 - 18:15, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

KIC Budo Tomović (Dom Omladine Budo Tomović)

E-1, Vaka Ðurovica 12, tel. +382 20 66 42 35/+382 20 22 55 87, fax + 382 20 66 42 33, info@kicpodgorica. com, www.kicpodgorica.com. Podgorica’s main youth culture centre, with a neat rooftop terrace for films and concerts. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Libraries

National Library (Narodna Biblioteka Radosav Ljumović) D-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 66 42 17, [email protected], www.nbp.me. Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Q Open 07:00 - 20:00,

Theatres

City Theatre (Gradsko Pozorište) D-2, Bokeška

2, tel. +382 20 66 50 85/+382 20 66 50 87, info@ pgpozoriste.me, www.pgpozoriste.me. Regular plays as well as performances aimed at children.

National Theatre (Crnogorsko Narodno Pozorište)

D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 18, tel./fax +382 20 66 40 82, tel. +382 20 66 40 75, [email protected], www.cnp.me. A Podgorica has a modest but good set of venues forvery culturactive theatre with local and regional plays performed on al events, and a handful of annual festivals, the main ones most nights. Q Box office open Mon-Sat 09:00-13:00, also in July and in December. Like many countries in this daily part from of 17:00 to the start of the performance. Europe, events are planned and announced haphazardly keep an eye on posters and local papers and ask around to find out what’s on during your visit. Underground culture: Karver

JvM

Podgorica Marathon

“The Race Even Marathoners Fear” -The Wall Street Journal, 2010

The 17th edition of the Podgorica Marathon (Podgorički maraton) is held on 31 October 2010. Starting on Trg Republike, the participants run 42 kilometres, across +382 20 41 44 24, www.stermontenegro.com. Montene-the Millennium Bridge and south past the airport, and back the to town via Tuzi. The 21km half marathon starts in gro’s only modern cinema, its Afrikaans name revealing Danilovgrad, northwest of town. The record times to beat franchise’s South African origins, has six screens showing are 2:11:41 for men and 2:31:18 for women. Spectators local films and subtitled Hollywood hits. Monday is student are welcome along the route and on Trg Republike, where night. Q Open 10:00 - 01:00. Tickets €3.50. PA there’s food and entertainment. For more information see www.maraton.co.me.

Cinemas

Ster Cinema G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel.

Concert halls

Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382

20 60 26 25, fax +382 20 60 26 26, [email protected], www.karver.org. A small concert hall and performance space above the Karver bookshop. Entrance is to the left of On 19 December, the Podgorička noć celebrates the libthe main building. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. eration of the city after the Second World War. The Crna Gora Hotel is the scene of a banquet with live music.

The Night Of Podgorica

Cultural centres

American Corner E-1, Vaka Ðurovica 12 (KIC Budo

Tomović), tel. +382 20 66 70 65, amcorner@t-com. me, www.kicpodgorica.com. The US information centre, where you can browse magazines and newspapers. Q Open Fine arts, literature and theatre are celebrated during the 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Banja Cultural Centre E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin DEUS December Art Scene festival, held in December. Expect exhibitions and concerts at KIC Budo Tomović, various brijeg bb, [email protected]. The former Turkish bath, public wedged under a bridge, now houses a bookshop, café, andbuildings and outside on the city squares. internet café. Q Open 18:00 - 20:00.

July 2011 www.theSFmarathon.com

Podgorica In Your Pocket

12

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

December Art Scene festival

November 2010 - April 2011

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

wHere to stay

wHere to stay Upmarket

Despite rapid developments along the Montenegrin coast, Podgorica’s accommodation scene is still lacking truly Ambasador D-1, Vaka Đurovića 5, tel. +382 20 27 22 33, cheap and truly charming places to stay, though several faxrange +382 20 27 22 44, [email protected], www. new hotels have recently raised the bar. The limited of accommodation ranges from merely adequate to ambasador.me. A great location by the river, the fully renoluxurious. vated rooms all come with lovely wooden floors, stainless steel Our hotel reviews are categorised by the number ceilings of stars in the bathrooms, cable television and a three-piece awarded by the local tourism authorities - though suite this may in the apartments. Knowing full well that the attraction not always correspond with the foreign star ratinglies system, with the location, the owners haven’t exactly splashed or your own sense of what’s good or not. out on facilities, making it a little expensive considering what you get, but the in-house riverside restaurant makes up for its deficiencies. Charming. Q 9 rooms (3 doubles €95, 6 apartments €150). PHAULKW hhhh

Coming soon: the Podgorica In Hotel Premier A-1/2, Bul. Mihaila Lalića 1, Your Pocket iPhone app Apart tel. +382 20 40 99 00, fax +382 20 40 99 99, office@

aparthotelpremier.com. For those who want more privacy and space than a regular hotel can offer, yet including breakfast and room service, the three types of luxury apartments at the Apart Hotel in the Novi Grad district are a solution. Spread over six floors, each is fitted out with a sitting area, P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted closeted kitchenette, hydromassage shower and cable internet. Q 48 apartments (18 studio €180, 12 junior €210, 18 O Casino H Conference facilities executive €250). PHALW hhhh T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled Bambis Franca Rozmana 10a, tel./fax +382 20 61 F Fitness centre L Guarded parking 10 06, tel. +382 67 61 10 06, hotel-bambis@hotmail. com, www.bambis-hotel.com. A good choice for business R Internet G Non-smoking rooms visitors or those en route to or from Belgrade, the spotless K Restaurant W Wi-Fi rooms at Bambis were decorated using eco-friendly paint and have extra wide and long beds and triple glazing to D Sauna C Swimming pool ensure a good night’s sleep. The large conference room 6 Animal friendly downstairs seats 300 people. Complimentary laptops are available for workaholics and addicted surfers. Along the road to Belgrade, near the Eko petrol station. Q 13 rooms (singles €65-75, doubles €75-90, 10 apartments €65-170). PHALKW hhhh

Symbol key

13

Crna Gora D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2, tel.

+382 20 44 34 43, fax +382 20 63 42 94, recepcija@ hotelcg.com, www.hotelcg.com. Set to be renovated by the Hilton group, the Crna Gora was built the year Stalin breathed his last and was last renovated just after Gorbachev began steering Socialism into a brick wall. It still represents the pinnacle of communist luxury. For now expect a choice of unrenovated amusements and one or two rooms that appear to have been decorated by a committee of low-budget television makeover gurus, all of them with balconies. Avoid using the overpriced wifi. Q 135 rooms (singles €60-96, doubles €92-117, apartment €143-291). POHAFLKW hhhh

Eminent D-2, Njegoševa 25, tel. +382 20 66 46 46, fax

+382 20 66 42 70, [email protected], www.eminent. co.me. The best little city centre hotel can be found right beside the cafés on Njegoševa, and for that reason it’s best to avoid the two front rooms on summer evenings. The business apartments have funky Art Deco style wooden furniture. Nice touches include fresh fruit in the rooms. Q 13 rooms (singles €80, doubles €130, triples €160, apartments €90140). PHAKW hhhh

Keto K-1, Skopska 1, tel. +382 20 61 12 21, fax +382

20 61 12 24, [email protected], www.hotelketo. com. Just east of the centre, Keto is a small and modern business hotel with top-notch services that prides itself on its collection of striking Montenegrin paintings, hung throughout the building. In summer, there’s a pleasant terrace to relax on. Q 9 rooms (3 singles €49, 3 doubles €79, 3 apartments €99-139). PHALGKW hhhh

Kosta’s K-2, Bul. Pete Proleterske, tel. +382 20 65 67

Philia G-2, Cetinjski put bb, tel. +382 20 24 29 02/+382 20 61 00 00, hotelkostasprodaja@hotmail. 12/+382 20 60 19 70, [email protected], www. com, www.hotelkostas.com. Located in the dreary eastPodgorica’s best-looking hotel can be ern suburbs, or as the brochure puts it ‘between a seaphiliahotel.com. and Best Western Premier A-2, Bul. Svetog Petra Cetfound snowing mountian half and hour from’, the glam Kosta ’s is on the western fringes of the city, near the Delta C injskog 145, tel. +382 20 40 65 00/+382 20 40 65 10, a self-declared VIP apartment hotel. Beyond the reception mall. Its neo-Baroque façade hides a very stylish lounge are fax +382 20 40 65 99, [email protected], area that looks like an antique shop, the apartments and aon small selection of modern rooms and suites, the latt offer are decent and spacious and come in a gay variety with large of opening windows offering rural views. The me www.bestwestern-ce.com/montenegro. Just in case you needed more proof that Podgorica is now a city of some im- colours, and with in-room kitchens and PCs for browsing. ing rooms Q and fast wifi make it well-equipped for busine portance, here it is in the shape of Best Western. Their hotel in 14 apartment rooms (singles €69-89, doubles €99-129). travellers. Q 15 rooms (4 singles €51, 8 doubles €72, 3 the heart of the capital’s Novi Grad business district offers, as PHALKDW hhhh apartments €100-130). PHALKW hhhh you’d expect, top class facilities including immaculate rooms Podgorica C-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 1, tel. +382 with all the trimmings, an intimate bar with large terrace, top 20 40 25 00/+382 20 40 25 01, fax +382 20 40 25 notch business and conference facilities and highly polished 01, [email protected], www.hotelstaff. Q 48 rooms (singles €135-175, doubles €195-205, podgorica.co.me. Built in 1967 and resembling the lair apartments €250-280). PHALGKW hhhh of a Bond film villain, this is one of the best hotels in tow Bojatours D-3, Kralja Nikole 10, tel. +382 20 62 Perched on the riverbank opposite the centre, using rounde 12 23/+382 20 62 12 40, fax +382 20 62 11 53, river stones to decorate the concrete structure, the reno vated rooms have large balconies with river views and ar [email protected]. A friendly hotel-cum-travel-agent between the train station and the city centre, with classic-style well-appointed with modern conveniences. The restauran interiors with the obligatory clashing colours. The smallish is known for its fish dishes and has a lovely terrace. Q rooms all have PCs for internet browsing, but lack central rooms (3 singles €125-135, 33 doubles €140-180, 8 apartheating in winter. Choose a room facing the back to avoid ments €190-200). PHAUFLGKW hhhh traffic noise. Q 18 rooms (13 singles €80, 4 doubles €115, 1 apartment €100). PAFDW hhhh

Mid-range

City D-4, Crnogorskih Serdara 5, tel. +382 20 44 15

00, fax +382 20 44 15 01, recepcija@cityhotelmn. com, www.cityhotelmn.com. South of the centre, at the foot of a dainty hill, the City is a large renovated Yugo-era hotel that now offers competent staff and decent-sized cream-coloured rooms. There’s a business centre, café and a large sheltered terrace at the back of the building. Q 79 rooms (singles €90, doubles €116, 9 apartments €160). PHAUFLGKW hhhh

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Ambiente G-2, Cetinjski put 34, tel./fax +382 20 23 55

Public drinking fountain

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

JvM

30, [email protected]. Right next to the Delta shopping mall and a short drive to the Novi Grad district, Ambiente f tures simple rooms with wooden floorboards and reasonab bathrooms (showers only) in two buildings surrounded by lush garden. The restaurant serves good local cuisine, and kiwi plant on the terrace provides fresh fruit in summer. rooms (singles €45, doubles €60, triples €75, 2 apartment €50-80). PHARLKW hhh

November 2010 - April 2011

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wHere to stay

wHere to stay Upmarket

Despite rapid developments along the Montenegrin coast, Podgorica’s accommodation scene is still lacking truly Ambasador D-1, Vaka Đurovića 5, tel. +382 20 27 22 33, cheap and truly charming places to stay, though several faxrange +382 20 27 22 44, [email protected], www. new hotels have recently raised the bar. The limited of accommodation ranges from merely adequate to ambasador.me. A great location by the river, the fully renoluxurious. vated rooms all come with lovely wooden floors, stainless steel Our hotel reviews are categorised by the number ceilings of stars in the bathrooms, cable television and a three-piece awarded by the local tourism authorities - though suite this may in the apartments. Knowing full well that the attraction not always correspond with the foreign star ratinglies system, with the location, the owners haven’t exactly splashed or your own sense of what’s good or not. out on facilities, making it a little expensive considering what you get, but the in-house riverside restaurant makes up for its deficiencies. Charming. Q 9 rooms (3 doubles €95, 6 apartments €150). PHAULKW hhhh

Coming soon: the Podgorica In Hotel Premier A-1/2, Bul. Mihaila Lalića 1, Your Pocket iPhone app Apart tel. +382 20 40 99 00, fax +382 20 40 99 99, office@

aparthotelpremier.com. For those who want more privacy and space than a regular hotel can offer, yet including breakfast and room service, the three types of luxury apartments at the Apart Hotel in the Novi Grad district are a solution. Spread over six floors, each is fitted out with a sitting area, P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted closeted kitchenette, hydromassage shower and cable internet. Q 48 apartments (18 studio €180, 12 junior €210, 18 O Casino H Conference facilities executive €250). PHALW hhhh T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled Bambis Franca Rozmana 10a, tel./fax +382 20 61 F Fitness centre L Guarded parking 10 06, tel. +382 67 61 10 06, hotel-bambis@hotmail. com, www.bambis-hotel.com. A good choice for business R Internet G Non-smoking rooms visitors or those en route to or from Belgrade, the spotless K Restaurant W Wi-Fi rooms at Bambis were decorated using eco-friendly paint and have extra wide and long beds and triple glazing to D Sauna C Swimming pool ensure a good night’s sleep. The large conference room 6 Animal friendly downstairs seats 300 people. Complimentary laptops are available for workaholics and addicted surfers. Along the road to Belgrade, near the Eko petrol station. Q 13 rooms (singles €65-75, doubles €75-90, 10 apartments €65-170). PHALKW hhhh

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13

Crna Gora D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2, tel.

+382 20 44 34 43, fax +382 20 63 42 94, recepcija@ hotelcg.com, www.hotelcg.com. Set to be renovated by the Hilton group, the Crna Gora was built the year Stalin breathed his last and was last renovated just after Gorbachev began steering Socialism into a brick wall. It still represents the pinnacle of communist luxury. For now expect a choice of unrenovated amusements and one or two rooms that appear to have been decorated by a committee of low-budget television makeover gurus, all of them with balconies. Avoid using the overpriced wifi. Q 135 rooms (singles €60-96, doubles €92-117, apartment €143-291). POHAFLKW hhhh

Eminent D-2, Njegoševa 25, tel. +382 20 66 46 46, fax

+382 20 66 42 70, [email protected], www.eminent. co.me. The best little city centre hotel can be found right beside the cafés on Njegoševa, and for that reason it’s best to avoid the two front rooms on summer evenings. The business apartments have funky Art Deco style wooden furniture. Nice touches include fresh fruit in the rooms. Q 13 rooms (singles €80, doubles €130, triples €160, apartments €90140). PHAKW hhhh

Keto K-1, Skopska 1, tel. +382 20 61 12 21, fax +382

20 61 12 24, [email protected], www.hotelketo. com. Just east of the centre, Keto is a small and modern business hotel with top-notch services that prides itself on its collection of striking Montenegrin paintings, hung throughout the building. In summer, there’s a pleasant terrace to relax on. Q 9 rooms (3 singles €49, 3 doubles €79, 3 apartments €99-139). PHALGKW hhhh

Kosta’s K-2, Bul. Pete Proleterske, tel. +382 20 65 67

Philia G-2, Cetinjski put bb, tel. +382 20 24 29 02/+382 20 61 00 00, hotelkostasprodaja@hotmail. 12/+382 20 60 19 70, [email protected], www. com, www.hotelkostas.com. Located in the dreary eastPodgorica’s best-looking hotel can be ern suburbs, or as the brochure puts it ‘between a seaphiliahotel.com. and Best Western Premier A-2, Bul. Svetog Petra Cetfound snowing mountian half and hour from’, the glam Kosta ’s is on the western fringes of the city, near the Delta C injskog 145, tel. +382 20 40 65 00/+382 20 40 65 10, a self-declared VIP apartment hotel. Beyond the reception mall. Its neo-Baroque façade hides a very stylish lounge are fax +382 20 40 65 99, [email protected], area that looks like an antique shop, the apartments and aon small selection of modern rooms and suites, the latt offer are decent and spacious and come in a gay variety with large of opening windows offering rural views. The me www.bestwestern-ce.com/montenegro. Just in case you needed more proof that Podgorica is now a city of some im- colours, and with in-room kitchens and PCs for browsing. ing rooms Q and fast wifi make it well-equipped for busine portance, here it is in the shape of Best Western. Their hotel in 14 apartment rooms (singles €69-89, doubles €99-129). travellers. Q 15 rooms (4 singles €51, 8 doubles €72, 3 the heart of the capital’s Novi Grad business district offers, as PHALKDW hhhh apartments €100-130). PHALKW hhhh you’d expect, top class facilities including immaculate rooms Podgorica C-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 1, tel. +382 with all the trimmings, an intimate bar with large terrace, top 20 40 25 00/+382 20 40 25 01, fax +382 20 40 25 notch business and conference facilities and highly polished 01, [email protected], www.hotelstaff. Q 48 rooms (singles €135-175, doubles €195-205, podgorica.co.me. Built in 1967 and resembling the lair apartments €250-280). PHALGKW hhhh of a Bond film villain, this is one of the best hotels in tow Bojatours D-3, Kralja Nikole 10, tel. +382 20 62 Perched on the riverbank opposite the centre, using rounde 12 23/+382 20 62 12 40, fax +382 20 62 11 53, river stones to decorate the concrete structure, the reno vated rooms have large balconies with river views and ar [email protected]. A friendly hotel-cum-travel-agent between the train station and the city centre, with classic-style well-appointed with modern conveniences. The restauran interiors with the obligatory clashing colours. The smallish is known for its fish dishes and has a lovely terrace. Q rooms all have PCs for internet browsing, but lack central rooms (3 singles €125-135, 33 doubles €140-180, 8 apartheating in winter. Choose a room facing the back to avoid ments €190-200). PHAUFLGKW hhhh traffic noise. Q 18 rooms (13 singles €80, 4 doubles €115, 1 apartment €100). PAFDW hhhh

Mid-range

City D-4, Crnogorskih Serdara 5, tel. +382 20 44 15

00, fax +382 20 44 15 01, recepcija@cityhotelmn. com, www.cityhotelmn.com. South of the centre, at the foot of a dainty hill, the City is a large renovated Yugo-era hotel that now offers competent staff and decent-sized cream-coloured rooms. There’s a business centre, café and a large sheltered terrace at the back of the building. Q 79 rooms (singles €90, doubles €116, 9 apartments €160). PHAUFLGKW hhhh

Podgorica In Your Pocket

14

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

wHere to stay internet and minibars. Among the other good things in store are a mediocre restaurant, small fitness room and the possibility to hire laptops, DVD players and camcorders. The mind boggles. Q 20 rooms (2 singles €56, 11 doubles €67-110, 7 apartments €89-120). PHAGKDW hhh

Laguna G-3, Vojislavljevića 72, tel. +382 20 64 17

77/+382 67 52 97 77, [email protected], www. laguna_restauranthotel.montenegro.com. Several wellappointed rooms located beside an interior decoration showroom on the outskirts of town. Laguna also has a smart, rustic restaurant that’s popular with locals from the surrounding area. Q 7 rooms (singles €35-45, doubles €50-60, apartments €60-75). PALEKW hhh

Lovćen Zetskih vladara bb, Petrovački put, tel./fax +382

20 62 52 19, tel. +382 20 64 21 32, bracasofranac@t-com. me, www.hotellovcen.co.me. Along the main road to Bar past the airport, this travellers’ hotel has good clean rooms with classic brown furnishings and a guarded car and truck parking area. Q 24rooms(8singles€40-60,13doubles€60-95,3triples €90-130). PHAULKW hhh

Piramida Nikole Tesle 126, Zagorič, tel. +382 20 61

16 08/+382 69 43 39 33, [email protected], www.piramida.me. This wonderful little hotel, located just north of town, was operating as a bed and breakfast at time of research but is set to change when the new restaurant is opened in late 2010. Rooms are lovely, with lively colours and plenty of comfort. There’s a family room, as well as a room with a bathroom across the hall (the cheaper rate in the price list). Both floors have living room style foyers. Q 10 rooms (doubles €20-63, singles €15-42). PHLGKCW hhh

Rene Pljevaljska 10, tel. +382 20 66 05 99/+382 67 80 Evropa F-4, Orahovačka 16, tel./fax +382 20 62 34 80 10, [email protected]. Way out along the Belgrade

road and suffering from the traffic noise, the decent rooms at 44, [email protected], www.hotelevropa.co.me. A hotel next to a bus and train station that prides itself on Rene its budget are no cheaper nor better than those in the city centre. price simply shouldn’t be this good, but once againAthe good taxi here from the centre costs about €2.50. Q 5 rooms (1 people of Podgorica have torn up the rule book andsingle given €25, us 4 doubles €45-55). PALKW hhh something altogether unexpected. Sure the rooms are small, agreed they’re not exactly bursting with trouserŠarović presses, Nikole Tesle 62, tel./fax +382 20 61 22 17, but hey, it’s clean, quiet, and best of all it stands [email protected]. head and Far off in a northern residential shoulders above many others when it comes to service. suburbs (a €2 taxi ride from the centre), you’d think you’d get Recommended. Q 22 rooms (singles €55, doubles €90, some peace and quiet here. Not when we visited. The restaurant and garden terrace are popular for weddings involving mutriples €120). PHARLKDW hhh sic blasted loud enough to dislodge fillings. The large rooms Holiday K-1, Prve Proleterske Brigade 11, tel. +382 20 61 are otherwise fine, and have a kitchen with sink and oven. 14 11, fax +382 20 61 16 99, recepcija@hotelholidaypg. The cheaper rooms share clean communal bathrooms. Q 7 com, www.hotelholidaypg.com. A clean and cheerful out-ofrooms (singles € 21, doubles €31). PHLK hhh town hotel featuring a range of singles and doubles with basic pine furniture, colourful bedspreads, minibars, the occasional balcony, basic showers, and one rather fancy room with an enorKubura mous bed. It’s short on bells and whistles, but if you don’t needG-2, Rusa Radulovića 79, tel. +382 69 06 65 them and aren’t bothered about the trawl in and out77/+382 of the city 69 06 65 78. Good-value rooms with cable TV then this place is a rather nice option. PALW hhh and free wifi in a suburb just to the west of the city. Rooms share clean facilities, while the apartments are en suite and Ideal K-2, Žrtava Fašizma bb, tel. +382 20 62 70 67, also have kitchenettes. Q 10 rooms (singles €15, doubles fax +382 20 62 79 99, [email protected], www. €20, triples €30, quads €40, apartments €30). PW hotelideal.me. Selling itself as a business hotel, Ideal is a functional place with adequate, basic rooms, un0ideally located out of town. Q 30 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50, Podgorica Hostel E-1, Branjevina Boljevica, Golubovci, triples €60). PHALKW hhh tel. +382 67 37 29 36/+382 69 51 27 47, podgorKerber E-2, Novaka Miloševa 6, tel. +382 20 40 54 00, [email protected], www.stevesplacehostel.com. fax +382 20 40 54 06, [email protected], www. Podgorica’s only hostel is in the process of moving, and at time of research only offered budget beds in the Jankovic hotelkerber.co.me. A marvellous location just a few seconds from the central square and hidden away inside family a small home near the airport (with free pickup). Contact the shopping centre, facilities include plain and simpleaffable rooms owner all Steve for more details on the hostel’s new coming with crisp white bedding, cable television, location. DSL cable Q (€15 per bed). PLK

Guesthouses

Hostels

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Ambiente G-2, Cetinjski put 34, tel./fax +382 20 23 55

Public drinking fountain

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

JvM

30, [email protected]. Right next to the Delta shopping mall and a short drive to the Novi Grad district, Ambiente f tures simple rooms with wooden floorboards and reasonab bathrooms (showers only) in two buildings surrounded by lush garden. The restaurant serves good local cuisine, and kiwi plant on the terrace provides fresh fruit in summer. rooms (singles €45, doubles €60, triples €75, 2 apartment €50-80). PHARLKW hhh

November 2010 - April 2011

14

wHere to stay internet and minibars. Among the other good things in store are a mediocre restaurant, small fitness room and the possibility to hire laptops, DVD players and camcorders. The mind boggles. Q 20 rooms (2 singles €56, 11 doubles €67-110, 7 apartments €89-120). PHAGKDW hhh

Laguna G-3, Vojislavljevića 72, tel. +382 20 64 17

77/+382 67 52 97 77, [email protected], www. laguna_restauranthotel.montenegro.com. Several wellappointed rooms located beside an interior decoration showroom on the outskirts of town. Laguna also has a smart, rustic restaurant that’s popular with locals from the surrounding area. Q 7 rooms (singles €35-45, doubles €50-60, apartments €60-75). PALEKW hhh

Lovćen Zetskih vladara bb, Petrovački put, tel./fax +382

20 62 52 19, tel. +382 20 64 21 32, bracasofranac@t-com. me, www.hotellovcen.co.me. Along the main road to Bar past the airport, this travellers’ hotel has good clean rooms with classic brown furnishings and a guarded car and truck parking area. Q 24rooms(8singles€40-60,13doubles€60-95,3triples €90-130). PHAULKW hhh

Piramida Nikole Tesle 126, Zagorič, tel. +382 20 61

16 08/+382 69 43 39 33, [email protected], www.piramida.me. This wonderful little hotel, located just north of town, was operating as a bed and breakfast at time of research but is set to change when the new restaurant is opened in late 2010. Rooms are lovely, with lively colours and plenty of comfort. There’s a family room, as well as a room with a bathroom across the hall (the cheaper rate in the price list). Both floors have living room style foyers. Q 10 rooms (doubles €20-63, singles €15-42). PHLGKCW hhh

Rene Pljevaljska 10, tel. +382 20 66 05 99/+382 67 80 Evropa F-4, Orahovačka 16, tel./fax +382 20 62 34 80 10, [email protected]. Way out along the Belgrade

road and suffering from the traffic noise, the decent rooms at 44, [email protected], www.hotelevropa.co.me. A hotel next to a bus and train station that prides itself on Rene its budget are no cheaper nor better than those in the city centre. price simply shouldn’t be this good, but once againAthe good taxi here from the centre costs about €2.50. Q 5 rooms (1 people of Podgorica have torn up the rule book andsingle given €25, us 4 doubles €45-55). PALKW hhh something altogether unexpected. Sure the rooms are small, agreed they’re not exactly bursting with trouserŠarović presses, Nikole Tesle 62, tel./fax +382 20 61 22 17, but hey, it’s clean, quiet, and best of all it stands [email protected]. head and Far off in a northern residential shoulders above many others when it comes to service. suburbs (a €2 taxi ride from the centre), you’d think you’d get Recommended. Q 22 rooms (singles €55, doubles €90, some peace and quiet here. Not when we visited. The restaurant and garden terrace are popular for weddings involving mutriples €120). PHARLKDW hhh sic blasted loud enough to dislodge fillings. The large rooms Holiday K-1, Prve Proleterske Brigade 11, tel. +382 20 61 are otherwise fine, and have a kitchen with sink and oven. 14 11, fax +382 20 61 16 99, recepcija@hotelholidaypg. The cheaper rooms share clean communal bathrooms. Q 7 com, www.hotelholidaypg.com. A clean and cheerful out-ofrooms (singles € 21, doubles €31). PHLK hhh town hotel featuring a range of singles and doubles with basic pine furniture, colourful bedspreads, minibars, the occasional balcony, basic showers, and one rather fancy room with an enorKubura mous bed. It’s short on bells and whistles, but if you don’t needG-2, Rusa Radulovića 79, tel. +382 69 06 65 them and aren’t bothered about the trawl in and out77/+382 of the city 69 06 65 78. Good-value rooms with cable TV then this place is a rather nice option. PALW hhh and free wifi in a suburb just to the west of the city. Rooms share clean facilities, while the apartments are en suite and Ideal K-2, Žrtava Fašizma bb, tel. +382 20 62 70 67, also have kitchenettes. Q 10 rooms (singles €15, doubles fax +382 20 62 79 99, [email protected], www. €20, triples €30, quads €40, apartments €30). PW hotelideal.me. Selling itself as a business hotel, Ideal is a functional place with adequate, basic rooms, un0ideally located out of town. Q 30 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50, Podgorica Hostel E-1, Branjevina Boljevica, Golubovci, triples €60). PHALKW hhh tel. +382 67 37 29 36/+382 69 51 27 47, podgorKerber E-2, Novaka Miloševa 6, tel. +382 20 40 54 00, [email protected], www.stevesplacehostel.com. fax +382 20 40 54 06, [email protected], www. Podgorica’s only hostel is in the process of moving, and at time of research only offered budget beds in the Jankovic hotelkerber.co.me. A marvellous location just a few seconds from the central square and hidden away inside family a small home near the airport (with free pickup). Contact the shopping centre, facilities include plain and simpleaffable rooms owner all Steve for more details on the hostel’s new coming with crisp white bedding, cable television, location. DSL cable Q (€15 per bed). PLK

Guesthouses

Hostels

Podgorica In Your Pocket

16

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

restaurants Mimi of E-2, Trg Republike 31, tel. +382 20 66 52 88. While it’s no gourmet destination, Podgorica has plenty decent places to eat - and above all it’s often very A affordfrequently hectic affair involving much dashing about by able. The prices in brackets refer to the average cost darkofyoung a ladies in aprons, the deal here is a good one. main course. Part patisserie, part burger joint and part shop, drop by for takeaway treats such as sticky buns and savoury Turkish pastries, sit outside with a snack and watch the world drift by, or take advantage of their superb range of ultra-cold soft drinks. Q Open 07:00 - 01:00. PB P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Školijera (Voda u Kršu) D-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića E Live music S Take away 151, tel. +382 69 54 43 75. An immensely popular L Guarded parking U Facilities for the disabled hole-in-the-wall pancake place, dishing out cheap sweet and savoury pancakes. Q Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 W Wi-Fi B Outside seating - 01:00. V Home delivery Voda u Kršu D-1, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 149, tel. +382 20 66 42 09. Hamburgers, pljeskavica, kebabs and french fries sold till late. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 Shanghai (Hong Kong) D-2, Stanka Dragojevića02:00. Closed Sun. 14, tel. +382 69 12 01 20/+382 69 02 24 38, www. kineskirestoran.me. Chinese chef Mr. Li runs the kitchen of Podgorica’s first Asian eatery, serving a wide range of popular Art Café B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 131, tel. +382 Kineski dishes, toned down in intensity for Balkan tastes. The narrow, double-level restaurant has lavish Chinese 20decora22 44 33, artcaff[email protected]. Apart from tions and plinkity-ploink music to synchronise youran chopstick ancient-looking mosaic of a running chap there’s not much art to look at in the Art Café, though the gallery-like skills to. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-12). PAVBW design of the place and especially the glass-walled terrace pod outside may suggest that you, dear coffee-sippers, are the artworks to be admired. Enjoy the glances cast your way Colombia D/E-1, Bul. Ivana Crnojevica 143, tel. +382 together with imaginative dishes like Ceasars pizza, tuna 67 69 07 28/+382 67 61 14 03. Locals come here topancake or penne with chopped beefsteak. Q Open 08:00 order el sandwich, stuffed pancakes eaten like a wrap, 24:00. PABW and named after any of a dozen Latin American countries. Crna Gora Restaurant D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra CetAlso at Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 71. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. injskog 2 (Crna Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 44 34 66, Closed Sun. P www.hotelcg.com. In keeping with the hotel’s ostentatious leanings, Crna Gora’s in-house restaurant is both vast and posh. True it isn’t as grand as it once was, but the National Tourism Association of Montenegro deem it good enough to slap a recommendation sticker on the door for its authentic national cuisine. Among the dishes on offer find wild boar, hare and roe deer. Q Open 06:00 - 24:00. PAEB

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Chinese

International

Fast food

Fish Lupo di Mare D-2, Trg Republike 22, tel. +382 67

90 92 999. Run by a real fisherman, Podgorica’s newest seafood restaurant has a bright two-floor interior with a seafaring theme, and is named after Jack London’s shipwreck story Sea-Wolf. All fish and seafood is caught fresh and although there’s a menu, it’s probably best to point out your preferred fish from the display, or let the cook do what he does best with the catch of the day excellent results guaranteed. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB

Maša B-2, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 31, tel. +382

20 22 44 60, [email protected]. Featuring both a great outdoor terrace and a classy upstairs restaurant, Maša’s reputation for fresh seafood is a worthy one indeed. The vast English menu also includes truffles, veal and lobster, all served in majestic surroundings by friendly and attentive gentlemen. Highly recommended for the full blow out or as a decent venue for informal business meetings over a good cup of coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAEGBW

Podgorica In Your Pocket

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16

restaurants Mimi of E-2, Trg Republike 31, tel. +382 20 66 52 88. While it’s no gourmet destination, Podgorica has plenty decent places to eat - and above all it’s often very A affordfrequently hectic affair involving much dashing about by able. The prices in brackets refer to the average cost darkofyoung a ladies in aprons, the deal here is a good one. main course. Part patisserie, part burger joint and part shop, drop by for takeaway treats such as sticky buns and savoury Turkish pastries, sit outside with a snack and watch the world drift by, or take advantage of their superb range of ultra-cold soft drinks. Q Open 07:00 - 01:00. PB P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Školijera (Voda u Kršu) D-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića E Live music S Take away 151, tel. +382 69 54 43 75. An immensely popular L Guarded parking U Facilities for the disabled hole-in-the-wall pancake place, dishing out cheap sweet and savoury pancakes. Q Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 W Wi-Fi B Outside seating - 01:00. V Home delivery Voda u Kršu D-1, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 149, tel. +382 20 66 42 09. Hamburgers, pljeskavica, kebabs and french fries sold till late. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 Shanghai (Hong Kong) D-2, Stanka Dragojevića02:00. Closed Sun. 14, tel. +382 69 12 01 20/+382 69 02 24 38, www. kineskirestoran.me. Chinese chef Mr. Li runs the kitchen of Podgorica’s first Asian eatery, serving a wide range of popular Art Café B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 131, tel. +382 Kineski dishes, toned down in intensity for Balkan tastes. The narrow, double-level restaurant has lavish Chinese 20decora22 44 33, artcaff[email protected]. Apart from tions and plinkity-ploink music to synchronise youran chopstick ancient-looking mosaic of a running chap there’s not much art to look at in the Art Café, though the gallery-like skills to. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-12). PAVBW design of the place and especially the glass-walled terrace pod outside may suggest that you, dear coffee-sippers, are the artworks to be admired. Enjoy the glances cast your way Colombia D/E-1, Bul. Ivana Crnojevica 143, tel. +382 together with imaginative dishes like Ceasars pizza, tuna 67 69 07 28/+382 67 61 14 03. Locals come here topancake or penne with chopped beefsteak. Q Open 08:00 order el sandwich, stuffed pancakes eaten like a wrap, 24:00. PABW and named after any of a dozen Latin American countries. Crna Gora Restaurant D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra CetAlso at Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 71. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. injskog 2 (Crna Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 44 34 66, Closed Sun. P www.hotelcg.com. In keeping with the hotel’s ostentatious leanings, Crna Gora’s in-house restaurant is both vast and posh. True it isn’t as grand as it once was, but the National Tourism Association of Montenegro deem it good enough to slap a recommendation sticker on the door for its authentic national cuisine. Among the dishes on offer find wild boar, hare and roe deer. Q Open 06:00 - 24:00. PAEB

Symbol key

Chinese

International

Fast food

Fish Lupo di Mare D-2, Trg Republike 22, tel. +382 67

90 92 999. Run by a real fisherman, Podgorica’s newest seafood restaurant has a bright two-floor interior with a seafaring theme, and is named after Jack London’s shipwreck story Sea-Wolf. All fish and seafood is caught fresh and although there’s a menu, it’s probably best to point out your preferred fish from the display, or let the cook do what he does best with the catch of the day excellent results guaranteed. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB

Maša B-2, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 31, tel. +382

20 22 44 60, [email protected]. Featuring both a great outdoor terrace and a classy upstairs restaurant, Maša’s reputation for fresh seafood is a worthy one indeed. The vast English menu also includes truffles, veal and lobster, all served in majestic surroundings by friendly and attentive gentlemen. Highly recommended for the full blow out or as a decent venue for informal business meetings over a good cup of coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAEGBW

Podgorica In Your Pocket

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restaurants

restaurants to the other side of the space and you’re lounging. Here, the classy décor is enhanced with subtle chandelier lighting and less subtle thumping music, and there’s a cigar corner for smokers. Next to the Best Western hotel. Q Open 08:00 24:00. PAB

Maršal B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 56, tel. +382 20

24 61 94/+382 69 38 58 90, restoranmarsal@t-com. me. A modestly-sized restaurant along the main boulevard in Novi Grad, with plenty of teak wood, a semi-circle of floral stained glass on the ceiling, small lamps on the tables and a backlit bookcase for browsing. You can try cooking your own food on a hot rock here, washing down the results with some excellent wines. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PABW

Opera A-2, Rimski trg 59 (Poslovni Centar Kruševac),

tel. +382 20 20 51 10/+382 68 40 78 44, info@ restoranopera.com, www.restoranopera.com. Dimmed lighting and padded seating along the walls below city photos determine the atmosphere of this classy restaurant and club. Lunch or dine on Italian/French cuisine and try the cakes - or for a proper night at Opera, come on Friday and Saturday nights when it becomes a lively cocktail bar. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00:02:00. PAB

Stari Sat C-1, 13 Jula bb, tel. +382 20 23 71 33. A

modest restaurant on the ground floor of a residential block, serving hamburgers, spaghetti, pancakes and other snacks to ravished students. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PB

Italian

Carine Centar E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 40 24 00,

[email protected], www.carine.co.me. A huge and massively popular conglomeration of restaurant, café, bar, bakery Dali A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 87, tel. +382 69 23 and more. The modern restaurant section, inside at the back, 45 67/+382 69 01 90 20, [email protected], looks great with its wooden floors and white tables but does suffer a lot from the noise from the other sections and from www.dali.co.me. Ask a local for a good restaurant and it’s likely they’ll send you here, in the Novi Grad area. Dali’s the waiters menu scurrying everywhere. Still, the fresh fish dishes, features very well-made local and international fish, the pizza local and meats and the Italian food on offer is very decent pasta dishes served by friendly staff. The interior could have and reasonably priced. Also in the Novi Grad area. Q Open been a tad much more Salvadoresque, but thankfully 07:00 the - 24:00. (€7-15). PABKW mad Montenegrin drivers tackling the roundabout outside Carine Restoran B-2, Moskovska 2-9, tel. +382 20 provide enough surrealism. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 24 15 33, [email protected], www.carine.co.me. The 09:00 - 01:00. PALGW second edition of the city’s largest and most popular dining Dialogue E-2, Trg Republike 32, tel. +382 69 03 22 spot has a similar menu and the same kind of crowd, and can be found in a long space in the Novi Grad part of town. The 00. A delightful restaurant and café on the main square with excellent service, live guitar music every Sunday, Monday venue is and so long, in fact, that they need signposting to avoid Tuesday, and screens showing waves lapping a tropical customers beach getting lost between the pizzeria, café, national instead of the ubiquitous Fashion TV. From noon, restaurant Dialogue and the 30-metre long terrace. Q Open 08:00 serves a decent selection of food including sandwiches, 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PABW pasta, fresh fish and Russian sasljik skewers. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. (€6-15). PAEBW

Duet E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 66 58

19

Forma E-4, Mitra Bakića bb, tel. +382 20 62 36 91. The Mona Lisa E-2, Balšića 4, tel. +382 20 23 05 48.

best place to wait for a bus or train is just across the Lasquare Gioconda’s faint smile overlooks this intimate café an inside this modern café and pizzeria, or on its great restaurant, terrace. with comfy seats and a stained glass window Apart from these pies, Forma also serves good sandwiches featuring leaves and eyes. It’s a good place for a glass o and pancakes. Also in the city centre at Njegoševawine 14 (tel. or other drinks, and there’s Italian fare available too +382 69 10 02 00). Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PAB decent prices. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00.

Il Giardino A-2, Rimski trg 28, tel. +382 69 31 33 13, Sempre (Ristorante Italiano Sempre) D-2, Stanka

[email protected]. Arguably the best resDragojevića 14, tel. +382 69 55 16 61. Small and unastaurant in the city’s rapidly expanding new business suming, district, the owner here has gone to great efforts to con Il Giardino offers everything from minestrone soup centrate to pastaon the food rather than the décor. This is alleged and risotto, all cooked by a local chef who earned his thewings only restaurant in Podgorica that makes its own pasta in Italy. It has a lovely setting overlooking a pedestrianised including some fine ravioli and gnocchi. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. square and is rustically themed with lots of coloured plates. Closed Sun. PAG Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-20). PAGBW

Leonardo B-1, Svetozara Markovića bb, tel. +382 20

Soul food

24 29 02/+382 69 30 33 03, www.leonardo-restoran.Duhovni Centar (Spiritual Centre) D-2, Njegoševa

com. Hidden in a humdrum residential area on the west 27, tel. +382 20 66 55 19. Food for the soul is served at delightful church-run café, an island of peace amidst bank, this delightful two-storey café and restaurantthis is well hedonistic bars along Njegoševa. The wooden tables worth looking up for its excellent Italian food and itsthe relaxed and benches in the simple interior are overlooked by beauterrace. The mercifully limited menu lists various specialities. tifulwith photos of Orthodox monasteries. Set up as a meeting Try the parmesan cheese starter followed by the gnocchi as well as a café where Orthodox believers can eat mushroom and courgette, or a fresh fish dish. Walk place towards Moskovska to find it in the middle of the block. Q Openfood 08:00adhering to the prescribed diet (no meat, eggs or dairy products on Wednesday, Friday and certain other days), - 24:00. (€5-15). PABW the friendly staff is just as pleased to serve cheese pies, Long Road F-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 59, tel. +382 sausages, hamburgers, cakes and pancakes to foreign 20 63 48 99/+382 67 22 99 33. Just as rustic as the travellers. Specialities of the house are the wholesome wheat-with-cream dessert, and the freshly made fruit nearby Laterna, the red brick interior at Long Road smells of the wood-fired pizza oven and meat sizzling on the grill. juice.The Best of all, it’s very cheap. Recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. PG shaded terrace is unfortunately right beside a busy long road. Q Open07:00- 24:00. PABW

Bakeries

65/+382 20 66 58 66. A decent place to eat below the Dion G-3, Voislavljevića bb. A small selection of sticky buns and stadium, Duet has walls hung with modern art including a soft drinks with the opportunity of digesting on the or at one of the tables outside. Q Open 24hrs. P picture of Commander Che, and serves the full rangehoof, of local and Italian food, with some quirky choices such as gruzijska Inpek E-2, Trg Republike 29. A small selection of hacapuri (Georgian cheese pie). Q Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat sweet and savoury pastries with outside seating over10;00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€3-7). PABW looking the main square. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. B Gossip A-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 153, tel. +382 63 23 45 67, [email protected], www.gossip. co.me. Half restaurant, half lounge bar, this sleek undertak-Krisma E-2, Balšića 5, tel. +382 20 65 87 10. A very bakery and café in the city centre; pop in for a croising is Podgorica’s prime jetset destination for now. good Guests or linger for a light lunch. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. can enjoy imaginative Mediterranean food, with sant several turkey dishes, and things like pork chops with honey. Move

Podgorica In Your Pocket

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November 2010 - April 2011

18

restaurants

restaurants to the other side of the space and you’re lounging. Here, the classy décor is enhanced with subtle chandelier lighting and less subtle thumping music, and there’s a cigar corner for smokers. Next to the Best Western hotel. Q Open 08:00 24:00. PAB

Maršal B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 56, tel. +382 20

24 61 94/+382 69 38 58 90, restoranmarsal@t-com. me. A modestly-sized restaurant along the main boulevard in Novi Grad, with plenty of teak wood, a semi-circle of floral stained glass on the ceiling, small lamps on the tables and a backlit bookcase for browsing. You can try cooking your own food on a hot rock here, washing down the results with some excellent wines. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PABW

Opera A-2, Rimski trg 59 (Poslovni Centar Kruševac),

tel. +382 20 20 51 10/+382 68 40 78 44, info@ restoranopera.com, www.restoranopera.com. Dimmed lighting and padded seating along the walls below city photos determine the atmosphere of this classy restaurant and club. Lunch or dine on Italian/French cuisine and try the cakes - or for a proper night at Opera, come on Friday and Saturday nights when it becomes a lively cocktail bar. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00:02:00. PAB

Stari Sat C-1, 13 Jula bb, tel. +382 20 23 71 33. A

modest restaurant on the ground floor of a residential block, serving hamburgers, spaghetti, pancakes and other snacks to ravished students. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PB

Italian

Carine Centar E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 40 24 00,

[email protected], www.carine.co.me. A huge and massively popular conglomeration of restaurant, café, bar, bakery Dali A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 87, tel. +382 69 23 and more. The modern restaurant section, inside at the back, 45 67/+382 69 01 90 20, [email protected], looks great with its wooden floors and white tables but does suffer a lot from the noise from the other sections and from www.dali.co.me. Ask a local for a good restaurant and it’s likely they’ll send you here, in the Novi Grad area. Dali’s the waiters menu scurrying everywhere. Still, the fresh fish dishes, features very well-made local and international fish, the pizza local and meats and the Italian food on offer is very decent pasta dishes served by friendly staff. The interior could have and reasonably priced. Also in the Novi Grad area. Q Open been a tad much more Salvadoresque, but thankfully 07:00 the - 24:00. (€7-15). PABKW mad Montenegrin drivers tackling the roundabout outside Carine Restoran B-2, Moskovska 2-9, tel. +382 20 provide enough surrealism. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 24 15 33, [email protected], www.carine.co.me. The 09:00 - 01:00. PALGW second edition of the city’s largest and most popular dining Dialogue E-2, Trg Republike 32, tel. +382 69 03 22 spot has a similar menu and the same kind of crowd, and can be found in a long space in the Novi Grad part of town. The 00. A delightful restaurant and café on the main square with excellent service, live guitar music every Sunday, Monday venue is and so long, in fact, that they need signposting to avoid Tuesday, and screens showing waves lapping a tropical customers beach getting lost between the pizzeria, café, national instead of the ubiquitous Fashion TV. From noon, restaurant Dialogue and the 30-metre long terrace. Q Open 08:00 serves a decent selection of food including sandwiches, 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PABW pasta, fresh fish and Russian sasljik skewers. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. (€6-15). PAEBW

Duet E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 66 58

19

Forma E-4, Mitra Bakića bb, tel. +382 20 62 36 91. The Mona Lisa E-2, Balšića 4, tel. +382 20 23 05 48.

best place to wait for a bus or train is just across the Lasquare Gioconda’s faint smile overlooks this intimate café an inside this modern café and pizzeria, or on its great restaurant, terrace. with comfy seats and a stained glass window Apart from these pies, Forma also serves good sandwiches featuring leaves and eyes. It’s a good place for a glass o and pancakes. Also in the city centre at Njegoševawine 14 (tel. or other drinks, and there’s Italian fare available too +382 69 10 02 00). Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PAB decent prices. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00.

Il Giardino A-2, Rimski trg 28, tel. +382 69 31 33 13, Sempre (Ristorante Italiano Sempre) D-2, Stanka

[email protected]. Arguably the best resDragojevića 14, tel. +382 69 55 16 61. Small and unastaurant in the city’s rapidly expanding new business suming, district, the owner here has gone to great efforts to con Il Giardino offers everything from minestrone soup centrate to pastaon the food rather than the décor. This is alleged and risotto, all cooked by a local chef who earned his thewings only restaurant in Podgorica that makes its own pasta in Italy. It has a lovely setting overlooking a pedestrianised including some fine ravioli and gnocchi. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. square and is rustically themed with lots of coloured plates. Closed Sun. PAG Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-20). PAGBW

Leonardo B-1, Svetozara Markovića bb, tel. +382 20

Soul food

24 29 02/+382 69 30 33 03, www.leonardo-restoran.Duhovni Centar (Spiritual Centre) D-2, Njegoševa

com. Hidden in a humdrum residential area on the west 27, tel. +382 20 66 55 19. Food for the soul is served at delightful church-run café, an island of peace amidst bank, this delightful two-storey café and restaurantthis is well hedonistic bars along Njegoševa. The wooden tables worth looking up for its excellent Italian food and itsthe relaxed and benches in the simple interior are overlooked by beauterrace. The mercifully limited menu lists various specialities. tifulwith photos of Orthodox monasteries. Set up as a meeting Try the parmesan cheese starter followed by the gnocchi as well as a café where Orthodox believers can eat mushroom and courgette, or a fresh fish dish. Walk place towards Moskovska to find it in the middle of the block. Q Openfood 08:00adhering to the prescribed diet (no meat, eggs or dairy products on Wednesday, Friday and certain other days), - 24:00. (€5-15). PABW the friendly staff is just as pleased to serve cheese pies, Long Road F-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 59, tel. +382 sausages, hamburgers, cakes and pancakes to foreign 20 63 48 99/+382 67 22 99 33. Just as rustic as the travellers. Specialities of the house are the wholesome wheat-with-cream dessert, and the freshly made fruit nearby Laterna, the red brick interior at Long Road smells of the wood-fired pizza oven and meat sizzling on the grill. juice.The Best of all, it’s very cheap. Recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. PG shaded terrace is unfortunately right beside a busy long road. Q Open07:00- 24:00. PABW

Bakeries

65/+382 20 66 58 66. A decent place to eat below the Dion G-3, Voislavljevića bb. A small selection of sticky buns and stadium, Duet has walls hung with modern art including a soft drinks with the opportunity of digesting on the or at one of the tables outside. Q Open 24hrs. P picture of Commander Che, and serves the full rangehoof, of local and Italian food, with some quirky choices such as gruzijska Inpek E-2, Trg Republike 29. A small selection of hacapuri (Georgian cheese pie). Q Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat sweet and savoury pastries with outside seating over10;00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€3-7). PABW looking the main square. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. B Gossip A-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 153, tel. +382 63 23 45 67, [email protected], www.gossip. co.me. Half restaurant, half lounge bar, this sleek undertak-Krisma E-2, Balšića 5, tel. +382 20 65 87 10. A very bakery and café in the city centre; pop in for a croising is Podgorica’s prime jetset destination for now. good Guests or linger for a light lunch. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. can enjoy imaginative Mediterranean food, with sant several turkey dishes, and things like pork chops with honey. Move

Podgorica In Your Pocket

20

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November 2010 - April 2011

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restaurants

restaurants Sonata D-2, Njegoševa 58, tel. +382 69 12 03 33. One

21

Montenegrin

of our favourites. Sonata is right in the centre of town with a menu of amazing Italian and international food. TheThe interior local is food is widely known as ‘National cuisine’ - even beautifully designed, the staff know what they’re though doing, and it’s rather similar to that of surrounding countries. if you happen to be sitting out on their terrace theyMontenegrins will even love grilled fish and meat, vegetables and simple, fresh salads. allow your dog to have its own chair. Q PVS

Venom C-1, Svetozara Markovića 52a, tel. +382 67 80 Anovi Golubovci bb, tel. +382 20 60 32 60/+382 69

03 02 50, fax + 382 20 60 30 21, www.restoran-anovi. 87 08. Naming your restaurant after something that will kill you may not seem smart, but the locals munching away com.atAthe delightfully designed restaurant along the road to pizzas and pasta dishes here certainly don’t seem Bar, to mind. with a rustic interior, a huge fireplace, intimate corners, The large and light two-level space attracts plenty of private students function rooms and two terraces with an outside grill. Expect perfectly grilled fish dishes, Montenegrin fafrom the nearby campus. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PB vourites and great desserts. Anovi is on the main crossroad of Golubovci village, 10 kilometres out of town beyond the airport, but well worth the €6 taxi ride. Reservations recomBlues Bar E-2, Novaka Miloševa 44, tel. +382 67 20 24 mended on weekend nights. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. (€4-9). 44. The former Café Mexicana has reincarnated as a Blues PHEBW bar with a touch of Mexico. The bar section at the front has Dvor D-3, Kralja Nikole 36, tel. +382 20 62 22 65, events posters and local paintings on the walls - but foreign travellers desperate for something spicy should head to the [email protected]. The only real traditional-style restaurant in Podgorica is located in the 18th century rear dining room for very decent attempts at Mexican faita, Cubranovici house in the old town. There’s lots of grilled kvasadilja, burito, encilada and gvakamolja sos. Q Open meat and fish, excellent local salads, and live music to 08:00 - 24:00. PBW listen to. Find it set back from the street, behind the Bojatours hotel building. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PAEB

Mexican

Burek

Kužina (Кужина) D/E-3, Trg Božane Vučinić 2, tel. The international dish of the Balkans, eaten from Mon+382 67 45 00 00/+382 69 11 22 33, restorankuzina@ tenegro all the way to Turkey and beyond, burek is a gmail.com, www.restorankuzina.com. Set on a modern delicious pie made with flaky pastry, and stuffed with square, the rustic interior of Kužina is something of a surprise, fillings like cheese, meat, potato, zeljanica (vegetables), albeit a pleasant one. Characterised by stone walls, heavy spinach or mushrooms. wooden furniture, photos of old soldiers and books, the traditional restaurant excels in local meals such as Durmitor-style Sarajka K-2, Bul. Pete Proleterske, Zgrada lamb and polenta. In winter the cosy basement room is the Čelebic, tel. +382 69 83 08 31. Just what you need to be. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PAVEB after an evening in the pub - fabulous cheap and place greasy burek. Down it all with yoghurt like the locals La do, Buena and Vida B-4, 8 marta 13, Čepurci, tel. have a fresh cherry strudel pie for dessert. The friendly +382 69 55 01 70. Traditional food, with daily performgirls working here don’t speak a word of foreign but are ances of sevdalinkas, romantic songs from the times that all smiles. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. P Podgorica was ruled by the Ottomans. Q Open 24hrs. Zabjelo E-1, 19 Decembra (City Stadium). The ‘Bob PAULEG Marley Burek Shop’ is a shrine to Saint Bob, Bhudda Laterna E-2, Marka Miljanova 41, tel. +382 20 23 23 and all things rasta. The burek is excellent and a good 31/+382 69 40 26 55. A delightful barn-interior restaurant deal for €2 with a drink. Zabjelo is the last shop on the lavishly decorated with wooden beams, lamps and other west side of the stadium. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed such rusticalities. The pizzas are good, but have a look at Sun. B the rest of the menu too. Meat loaf, plum-stuffed kebab, steaks, seafood, home made pasta and sandwiches are all possible and delicious. Our only gripe is the location of the terrace next to a busy road. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PAEGB Nijagara Cijevna bb, Kuće Rakića, tel. +382 20 87 01

Skadarlija E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 68 88

Pizza

75 55. A lovely traditional restaurant that looks very nice D-2, Njegoševa 42, tel. +382 20 66 52 29/+382 inside despite the dodgy setting in the stadium.Leone Skadarlija has pleasantly pompous waitstaff, and the full of 91. Canary-yellow seats and artsy B&W photos of 69 set 35 88 grilled meat, fish and beef steak meals. For a localthe specialcity make up Leone’s spacious interior, while pizza is th name of the business. Choose from a range of pies to eat in ity, order the Podgorički popeci, meat with cheese and ham. Q Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (€5-8). or take away. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PA PAB Sidro A-1, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 27, tel. +382 20 23 Stara Kuća Iva Andrića 5, Zagorič, tel. +382 69 03 02 45 15. Sixteen reasonably priced pizzas and a number of other dishes including mediocre hamburgers, omelettes an 04, www.starakuca.me. The location of ‘the Old House’, in a quiet residential neighbourhood, makes for ahot soothing sandwiches inside a pretty gingerbread house comple evening of dining, and provides visitors with an opportunity with gingham curtains and a small cast of exotic waitresses. you can’t stand the décor, find four small tables parked on t to see how the locals live. This exclusive restaurant serves only national Montenegrin dishes, so fresh that the fish on outside. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PB pavement your plate was happily swimming laps in one of the pools just minutes earlier. Guests are welcomed by live local music daily except Sundays. Stara Kuća can be found just north of Gorica hill. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. PALEB

06/+382 69 02 23 99. Beside a cascading weir in the Cijevna river and quirkily named after another waterfall, it may not live up to the name, but the restaurant with its breezy terrace and shaded tables on the lawn is lovely for a relaxed lunch of national food and drinks. Find it 5km southeast of Express Restoran F-4, Trg golootočkih Podgorica. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. PALBW Žrtava (bus station), tel. +382 69 62 07 84. Clearly never having received the information that Pod Volat D-4, Trg Vojvode Bećir Bega Osmanagića 1, bus station food should be appalling and overpriced, tel. +382 69 61 86 33. Goulash and grilled meat are served the people who run this delightful discovery churn beneath photos of old Podgorica at the busy Pod Volat, the out a wide range of fabulous, ready-to-eat food only eatery on the city’s old town square, by the clocktower. from huge slabs of meat to goulash to delicious Popular with older locals as well as with students for cheap boozing before a night out, it’s certainly authentic. In summer fresh salads. Express Restoran is pure class. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. P there’s a large terrace behind the building. Q Open 06:00 The Podgorica Museum 24:00. PAB

Buffet express

Delicious burek

Podgorica In Your Pocket

JvM

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JvM

November 2010 - April 2011

20

restaurants

restaurants Sonata D-2, Njegoševa 58, tel. +382 69 12 03 33. One

21

Montenegrin

of our favourites. Sonata is right in the centre of town with a menu of amazing Italian and international food. TheThe interior local is food is widely known as ‘National cuisine’ - even beautifully designed, the staff know what they’re though doing, and it’s rather similar to that of surrounding countries. if you happen to be sitting out on their terrace theyMontenegrins will even love grilled fish and meat, vegetables and simple, fresh salads. allow your dog to have its own chair. Q PVS

Venom C-1, Svetozara Markovića 52a, tel. +382 67 80 Anovi Golubovci bb, tel. +382 20 60 32 60/+382 69

03 02 50, fax + 382 20 60 30 21, www.restoran-anovi. 87 08. Naming your restaurant after something that will kill you may not seem smart, but the locals munching away com.atAthe delightfully designed restaurant along the road to pizzas and pasta dishes here certainly don’t seem Bar, to mind. with a rustic interior, a huge fireplace, intimate corners, The large and light two-level space attracts plenty of private students function rooms and two terraces with an outside grill. Expect perfectly grilled fish dishes, Montenegrin fafrom the nearby campus. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PB vourites and great desserts. Anovi is on the main crossroad of Golubovci village, 10 kilometres out of town beyond the airport, but well worth the €6 taxi ride. Reservations recomBlues Bar E-2, Novaka Miloševa 44, tel. +382 67 20 24 mended on weekend nights. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. (€4-9). 44. The former Café Mexicana has reincarnated as a Blues PHEBW bar with a touch of Mexico. The bar section at the front has Dvor D-3, Kralja Nikole 36, tel. +382 20 62 22 65, events posters and local paintings on the walls - but foreign travellers desperate for something spicy should head to the [email protected]. The only real traditional-style restaurant in Podgorica is located in the 18th century rear dining room for very decent attempts at Mexican faita, Cubranovici house in the old town. There’s lots of grilled kvasadilja, burito, encilada and gvakamolja sos. Q Open meat and fish, excellent local salads, and live music to 08:00 - 24:00. PBW listen to. Find it set back from the street, behind the Bojatours hotel building. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PAEB

Mexican

Burek

Kužina (Кужина) D/E-3, Trg Božane Vučinić 2, tel. The international dish of the Balkans, eaten from Mon+382 67 45 00 00/+382 69 11 22 33, restorankuzina@ tenegro all the way to Turkey and beyond, burek is a gmail.com, www.restorankuzina.com. Set on a modern delicious pie made with flaky pastry, and stuffed with square, the rustic interior of Kužina is something of a surprise, fillings like cheese, meat, potato, zeljanica (vegetables), albeit a pleasant one. Characterised by stone walls, heavy spinach or mushrooms. wooden furniture, photos of old soldiers and books, the traditional restaurant excels in local meals such as Durmitor-style Sarajka K-2, Bul. Pete Proleterske, Zgrada lamb and polenta. In winter the cosy basement room is the Čelebic, tel. +382 69 83 08 31. Just what you need to be. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PAVEB after an evening in the pub - fabulous cheap and place greasy burek. Down it all with yoghurt like the locals La do, Buena and Vida B-4, 8 marta 13, Čepurci, tel. have a fresh cherry strudel pie for dessert. The friendly +382 69 55 01 70. Traditional food, with daily performgirls working here don’t speak a word of foreign but are ances of sevdalinkas, romantic songs from the times that all smiles. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. P Podgorica was ruled by the Ottomans. Q Open 24hrs. Zabjelo E-1, 19 Decembra (City Stadium). The ‘Bob PAULEG Marley Burek Shop’ is a shrine to Saint Bob, Bhudda Laterna E-2, Marka Miljanova 41, tel. +382 20 23 23 and all things rasta. The burek is excellent and a good 31/+382 69 40 26 55. A delightful barn-interior restaurant deal for €2 with a drink. Zabjelo is the last shop on the lavishly decorated with wooden beams, lamps and other west side of the stadium. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed such rusticalities. The pizzas are good, but have a look at Sun. B the rest of the menu too. Meat loaf, plum-stuffed kebab, steaks, seafood, home made pasta and sandwiches are all possible and delicious. Our only gripe is the location of the terrace next to a busy road. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PAEGB Nijagara Cijevna bb, Kuće Rakića, tel. +382 20 87 01

Skadarlija E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 68 88

Pizza

75 55. A lovely traditional restaurant that looks very nice D-2, Njegoševa 42, tel. +382 20 66 52 29/+382 inside despite the dodgy setting in the stadium.Leone Skadarlija has pleasantly pompous waitstaff, and the full of 91. Canary-yellow seats and artsy B&W photos of 69 set 35 88 grilled meat, fish and beef steak meals. For a localthe specialcity make up Leone’s spacious interior, while pizza is th name of the business. Choose from a range of pies to eat in ity, order the Podgorički popeci, meat with cheese and ham. Q Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (€5-8). or take away. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PA PAB Sidro A-1, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 27, tel. +382 20 23 Stara Kuća Iva Andrića 5, Zagorič, tel. +382 69 03 02 45 15. Sixteen reasonably priced pizzas and a number of other dishes including mediocre hamburgers, omelettes an 04, www.starakuca.me. The location of ‘the Old House’, in a quiet residential neighbourhood, makes for ahot soothing sandwiches inside a pretty gingerbread house comple evening of dining, and provides visitors with an opportunity with gingham curtains and a small cast of exotic waitresses. you can’t stand the décor, find four small tables parked on t to see how the locals live. This exclusive restaurant serves only national Montenegrin dishes, so fresh that the fish on outside. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PB pavement your plate was happily swimming laps in one of the pools just minutes earlier. Guests are welcomed by live local music daily except Sundays. Stara Kuća can be found just north of Gorica hill. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. PALEB

06/+382 69 02 23 99. Beside a cascading weir in the Cijevna river and quirkily named after another waterfall, it may not live up to the name, but the restaurant with its breezy terrace and shaded tables on the lawn is lovely for a relaxed lunch of national food and drinks. Find it 5km southeast of Express Restoran F-4, Trg golootočkih Podgorica. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. PALBW Žrtava (bus station), tel. +382 69 62 07 84. Clearly never having received the information that Pod Volat D-4, Trg Vojvode Bećir Bega Osmanagića 1, bus station food should be appalling and overpriced, tel. +382 69 61 86 33. Goulash and grilled meat are served the people who run this delightful discovery churn beneath photos of old Podgorica at the busy Pod Volat, the out a wide range of fabulous, ready-to-eat food only eatery on the city’s old town square, by the clocktower. from huge slabs of meat to goulash to delicious Popular with older locals as well as with students for cheap boozing before a night out, it’s certainly authentic. In summer fresh salads. Express Restoran is pure class. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. P there’s a large terrace behind the building. Q Open 06:00 The Podgorica Museum 24:00. PAB

Buffet express

Delicious burek

Podgorica In Your Pocket

22

JvM

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

nigHtLiFe

CaFés Fab Live Cijevna bb, tel. +382 69 37 41 11, info@

JvM

23

Sports bars

Sod school and work, most Podgoricans spend all their lives sitting in one of the many cafés and bars. Open for first coffee early in the morning until the last beer or cocktail late at night, And1 A-2, Moskovska bb, tel. +382 20 23 44 these places are where life happens. Expect drinks and 22/+382 69 88 45 55, [email protected]. second-hand smoke, but no food or snacks. Podgorica’s best sports café, owned by a pro basketball In Montenegro, they can make alcohol out of any fruit player, is a pavilion set at the edge of the new part of and recommended local drinks include lozova rakija and šljivovica. Youngsters may need to prove they are over 18 town, in a sliver of park shaded by fragrant pines. The large and bright interior has plenty of screens for watch before being served alcohol. ing a wide variety of sports, while eating an even wider variety of snacks, sandwiches, salads and main courses. Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25, www.karver.org. Taking up three QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (€8-15). PABW renovated floors of Podgorica’s former Turkish bathhouse, Alan Ford D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 10, tel. +382 69 38 this distinctly different café by the river under the bridge 89 87/+382 20 66 47 77, www.alanfordcaffe.com. ABilijar Club E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. + 382 20 66 55 80. Set in the outer wall of the football stadium, sells a range of soft drinks, beer and coffee and is most modest bar along Podgorica’s main nightlife strip is dedicated bar has five pool tables where you can knock balls remarkable for stocking a large range of (albeit rather out to a 1970s Italian cartoon about a set of blunderingthis secret at €4.80 an hour, as well as plenty of screens to of date) English language newspapers and magazines. agents that became immensely popular in Yugoslavia.away A shelf watch sports matches around the world. It’s set amidst a of comics is available for browsing, there’s Guinness, Kilkenny Q Open 08:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. PEGW clutch of sports bars populated 24/7 by muscled, dodgyand Pilsner to drink and a good variety of people to chat to. Maxim B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 98, tel. +382 Q Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PEBW looking characters. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PAB 20 22 83 34/+382 67 84 84 89. A pleasant café on the ground floor of a modern building along the Novi Grad’s main Boćara E-1, 19 Decembra 21, tel. +382 67 56 02 70. drag. A sunny terrace allows you to warm your bones on A fabulous little place at the entrance to the Gorica Šuma Park. The small space is hung with old photos of completely sunny autumn days. Q Open 07:30 - 01:00. PAB More nightlife reviews online: unknown local tennis players and some rock stars. The place Nero E-3, Vuka Karadžica bb, tel. +382 68 60 08 02. livens up in summer with a pleasant terrace under thewww.podgorica.inyourpocket.com pine The link between the Roman emperor and the large photos trees, live soul and blues music on Tuesdays and DJs playing of Prague’s main square in the hallway leading up to Nero is on Fridays and Saturdays. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PEB Inter City D-2, Njegoševa 27, tel. +382 67 66 56 69. vague, but the bar is well worth a visit for the jazz concerts that take place every Friday and Saturday from 21:00. At Buda Bar D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 26, tel. +382 67 34 A cool designer bar attracts students and other loafers wit other times, it’s a decent place for a quiet drink amidst 49 44. A very popular and friendly choice facing the park, its central terrace, soft seats and high stools at the bar a classic wooden interior with bookshelves and photos. the Buda Bar has an oversized statue of the deity, Amidst Indianall the sharp Scandinavian lines, just to remind yo decorations, a covered terrace and sandwiches for where nouryou are again, a portrait of an Orthodox saint han Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PBW ishment. It gets hard to find a spot to sit at lunchtime and on the wall. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. PB Prague E-1, 19 Decembra 1 (City Stadium), tel. +382 especially after dark, when DJs liven up the place. Q Open Nice Vice E-2, Slobode 82, tel. +382 20 23 03 20 66 47 17/+382 67 24 07 77, [email protected]. 08:00 - 03:00. PAEB Coffee is the most popular daytime drink, every single Another bar that has the Golden City as its theme - do we 94/+382 67 20 32 22. The vice here is certainly nice Camelot E-2, Slobode bb, tel. +382 67 23 42 66. Look, enough to make the venue one of the best bars in Podgorica deal in this city is made over an espresso or cappuccino. sense some jealousy for its good looks here? You can wash Try the Turkish coffee, but indicate how sweet youaway wantall it thoughts of intercity animosity with the snacks, my liege, Camelot! Naming your bar after an English The myth L-shaped and pub’s interior has leather seats, books and beforehand and wait with sipping till the gunk haspancakes sunk. and pizza served at this spacious L-shaped café decorating it banquet hall style with armoured suits, bottles, medieval and although the daytime atmosphere is calm weapons and even a guillotine seems like asking for enough trouble. for a quiet coffee, on weekend nights the live mu on the sunny side of the stadium. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. Bummba E-2, Novaka Miloševa 46, tel. +382 67 PABW But the locals love this silly place, and it’s crammed the 23:30 turns it into a great dance venue. Q Open sic to from rafters with non-violent knights and princesses every night. 56 35 51. Clearly owned by an artist, this café is differ07:00 - 03:00. PAEB Rembrandt D-2, Njegoševa 9, tel. +382 69 67 82 ent from the catalogue ‘designer’ places elsewhere in Q Open 08:00 - 03:00. PAEB OGP (ОГП) E-2, Balšića 57, tel. +382 68 56 82 84. town. Comfy chairs and sofas are strewn around,22, there’s [email protected]. Reproductions of works by Greenwich D-2, Njegoševa 27, tel. +382 67 34 49 Named after the General Construction Company that re a sunken area beside some Fawlty Towers steps, theand Dutch master grace the walls of this modern/classic the walls are hung with mirrors, paintings and restaurant assorted and café, with a small basement room. The 45. One of the more sophisticated bars along the street,built much of Podgorica in the 1950s, this rocking bar h artworks. Drinks include coffee specialities and menu 100% lists a variety of snacks and meals, including cake, Greenwich is nicely decorated with artsy music-themed scaffolding tables and exposed concrete, and two huge natural fruit cocktails, and snacks and light meals salads, are pasta and fish. On warm days, join the locals on the photos on the walls, oversized instruments screwed murals with photos of equally exposed models, wearin available from the kitchen. Visit on Wednesdays for along the newly pedestrianised street for a coffee. to the ceiling and a piano in the corner. Thenothing terrace place but hardhats. Glorious. DJs perform daily exce positively rocks during the regular live acts, which Sundays. rangeCome early for the live R&B, funk and rock mus live local sevdalinka music. Q Open 07:30 - 23:00. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PAB PAE from Jazz and Blues to Latino. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. on Wednesday and Thursday as it’s frequently full. Q Open Titograd D-2, Njegoševa 41. A Commie-retro bar that 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. PAE PAB Costa Coffee G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), pokes subtle fun at the time when Podgorica was called tel. +382 68 84 01 01, [email protected]. Tito City. The bar ’s logo is adorned with Zastava cars Confusing the locals, this is the first self-serviceand café bulldozers, in while old TG car license plates with red Montenegro where you need to queue up at thestars counter decorate the walls. Interestingly, the bar is the only to select your coffee and point out the deliciousplace mafin,in town with a good selection of 1950s city photos brownie or pannini sandwich of your desire. Also on at display. the And on top of all that they serve drinks too, airport. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. PALXW comrade. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PAEBW Crna Gora Café D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog Trendy E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 40 24 00, 2 (Crna Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 44 34 66, www. hotelcg.com. Overpriced drinks and cakes in Communist [email protected], www.carine.co.me. Part of the Carine opulence inside a massive banquet-style hall, Crna complex, Gora’s the café section facing Trg Republike square has monster indoor café is best left alone. Its fabulousdecorations terrace looking like ribbons of pasta and the exact on the other hand, complete with lots of wicker chairs sameand food a and drinks menu as on the mothership. Due to prime view of one of Podgorica’s more sparklingly the amusing busy corridor linking to Carine it lacks the intimacy and crossroads, is really rather good indeed. Q Open 06:00 calm- of the other cafés along the square. Q Open 07:00 24:00. PAEB 24:00. PABW fablive.com, www.fablive.me. This café has a petrol station attached to it, rather than the other way round. Along the road to the coast, Fab Live has deep leather seats, a bar with huge whiskey bottles, a semi-enclosed terrace with garden views, screens for sports and a menu with decent sandwiches, toast, pizza and pancakes. At the UPM petrol station, 100 metres past the airport turnoff. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. PA

Bars

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

22

nigHtLiFe

CaFés Fab Live Cijevna bb, tel. +382 69 37 41 11, info@

23

Sports bars

Sod school and work, most Podgoricans spend all their lives sitting in one of the many cafés and bars. Open for first coffee early in the morning until the last beer or cocktail late at night, And1 A-2, Moskovska bb, tel. +382 20 23 44 these places are where life happens. Expect drinks and 22/+382 69 88 45 55, [email protected]. second-hand smoke, but no food or snacks. Podgorica’s best sports café, owned by a pro basketball In Montenegro, they can make alcohol out of any fruit player, is a pavilion set at the edge of the new part of and recommended local drinks include lozova rakija and šljivovica. Youngsters may need to prove they are over 18 town, in a sliver of park shaded by fragrant pines. The large and bright interior has plenty of screens for watch before being served alcohol. ing a wide variety of sports, while eating an even wider variety of snacks, sandwiches, salads and main courses. Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25, www.karver.org. Taking up three QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (€8-15). PABW renovated floors of Podgorica’s former Turkish bathhouse, Alan Ford D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 10, tel. +382 69 38 this distinctly different café by the river under the bridge 89 87/+382 20 66 47 77, www.alanfordcaffe.com. ABilijar Club E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. + 382 20 66 55 80. Set in the outer wall of the football stadium, sells a range of soft drinks, beer and coffee and is most modest bar along Podgorica’s main nightlife strip is dedicated bar has five pool tables where you can knock balls remarkable for stocking a large range of (albeit rather out to a 1970s Italian cartoon about a set of blunderingthis secret at €4.80 an hour, as well as plenty of screens to of date) English language newspapers and magazines. agents that became immensely popular in Yugoslavia.away A shelf watch sports matches around the world. It’s set amidst a of comics is available for browsing, there’s Guinness, Kilkenny Q Open 08:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. PEGW clutch of sports bars populated 24/7 by muscled, dodgyand Pilsner to drink and a good variety of people to chat to. Maxim B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 98, tel. +382 Q Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PEBW looking characters. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PAB 20 22 83 34/+382 67 84 84 89. A pleasant café on the ground floor of a modern building along the Novi Grad’s main Boćara E-1, 19 Decembra 21, tel. +382 67 56 02 70. drag. A sunny terrace allows you to warm your bones on A fabulous little place at the entrance to the Gorica Šuma Park. The small space is hung with old photos of completely sunny autumn days. Q Open 07:30 - 01:00. PAB More nightlife reviews online: unknown local tennis players and some rock stars. The place Nero E-3, Vuka Karadžica bb, tel. +382 68 60 08 02. livens up in summer with a pleasant terrace under thewww.podgorica.inyourpocket.com pine The link between the Roman emperor and the large photos trees, live soul and blues music on Tuesdays and DJs playing of Prague’s main square in the hallway leading up to Nero is on Fridays and Saturdays. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PEB Inter City D-2, Njegoševa 27, tel. +382 67 66 56 69. vague, but the bar is well worth a visit for the jazz concerts that take place every Friday and Saturday from 21:00. At Buda Bar D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 26, tel. +382 67 34 A cool designer bar attracts students and other loafers wit other times, it’s a decent place for a quiet drink amidst 49 44. A very popular and friendly choice facing the park, its central terrace, soft seats and high stools at the bar a classic wooden interior with bookshelves and photos. the Buda Bar has an oversized statue of the deity, Amidst Indianall the sharp Scandinavian lines, just to remind yo decorations, a covered terrace and sandwiches for where nouryou are again, a portrait of an Orthodox saint han Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PBW ishment. It gets hard to find a spot to sit at lunchtime and on the wall. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. PB Prague E-1, 19 Decembra 1 (City Stadium), tel. +382 especially after dark, when DJs liven up the place. Q Open Nice Vice E-2, Slobode 82, tel. +382 20 23 03 20 66 47 17/+382 67 24 07 77, [email protected]. 08:00 - 03:00. PAEB Coffee is the most popular daytime drink, every single Another bar that has the Golden City as its theme - do we 94/+382 67 20 32 22. The vice here is certainly nice Camelot E-2, Slobode bb, tel. +382 67 23 42 66. Look, enough to make the venue one of the best bars in Podgorica deal in this city is made over an espresso or cappuccino. sense some jealousy for its good looks here? You can wash Try the Turkish coffee, but indicate how sweet youaway wantall it thoughts of intercity animosity with the snacks, my liege, Camelot! Naming your bar after an English The myth L-shaped and pub’s interior has leather seats, books and beforehand and wait with sipping till the gunk haspancakes sunk. and pizza served at this spacious L-shaped café decorating it banquet hall style with armoured suits, bottles, medieval and although the daytime atmosphere is calm weapons and even a guillotine seems like asking for enough trouble. for a quiet coffee, on weekend nights the live mu on the sunny side of the stadium. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. Bummba E-2, Novaka Miloševa 46, tel. +382 67 PABW But the locals love this silly place, and it’s crammed the 23:30 turns it into a great dance venue. Q Open sic to from rafters with non-violent knights and princesses every night. 56 35 51. Clearly owned by an artist, this café is differ07:00 - 03:00. PAEB Rembrandt D-2, Njegoševa 9, tel. +382 69 67 82 ent from the catalogue ‘designer’ places elsewhere in Q Open 08:00 - 03:00. PAEB OGP (ОГП) E-2, Balšića 57, tel. +382 68 56 82 84. town. Comfy chairs and sofas are strewn around,22, there’s [email protected]. Reproductions of works by Greenwich D-2, Njegoševa 27, tel. +382 67 34 49 Named after the General Construction Company that re a sunken area beside some Fawlty Towers steps, theand Dutch master grace the walls of this modern/classic the walls are hung with mirrors, paintings and restaurant assorted and café, with a small basement room. The 45. One of the more sophisticated bars along the street,built much of Podgorica in the 1950s, this rocking bar h artworks. Drinks include coffee specialities and menu 100% lists a variety of snacks and meals, including cake, Greenwich is nicely decorated with artsy music-themed scaffolding tables and exposed concrete, and two huge natural fruit cocktails, and snacks and light meals salads, are pasta and fish. On warm days, join the locals on the photos on the walls, oversized instruments screwed murals with photos of equally exposed models, wearin available from the kitchen. Visit on Wednesdays for along the newly pedestrianised street for a coffee. to the ceiling and a piano in the corner. Thenothing terrace place but hardhats. Glorious. DJs perform daily exce positively rocks during the regular live acts, which Sundays. rangeCome early for the live R&B, funk and rock mus live local sevdalinka music. Q Open 07:30 - 23:00. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PAB PAE from Jazz and Blues to Latino. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. on Wednesday and Thursday as it’s frequently full. Q Open Titograd D-2, Njegoševa 41. A Commie-retro bar that 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. PAE PAB Costa Coffee G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), pokes subtle fun at the time when Podgorica was called tel. +382 68 84 01 01, [email protected]. Tito City. The bar ’s logo is adorned with Zastava cars Confusing the locals, this is the first self-serviceand café bulldozers, in while old TG car license plates with red Montenegro where you need to queue up at thestars counter decorate the walls. Interestingly, the bar is the only to select your coffee and point out the deliciousplace mafin,in town with a good selection of 1950s city photos brownie or pannini sandwich of your desire. Also on at display. the And on top of all that they serve drinks too, airport. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. PALXW comrade. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PAEBW Crna Gora Café D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog Trendy E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 40 24 00, 2 (Crna Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 44 34 66, www. hotelcg.com. Overpriced drinks and cakes in Communist [email protected], www.carine.co.me. Part of the Carine opulence inside a massive banquet-style hall, Crna complex, Gora’s the café section facing Trg Republike square has monster indoor café is best left alone. Its fabulousdecorations terrace looking like ribbons of pasta and the exact on the other hand, complete with lots of wicker chairs sameand food a and drinks menu as on the mothership. Due to prime view of one of Podgorica’s more sparklingly the amusing busy corridor linking to Carine it lacks the intimacy and crossroads, is really rather good indeed. Q Open 06:00 calm- of the other cafés along the square. Q Open 07:00 24:00. PAEB 24:00. PABW fablive.com, www.fablive.me. This café has a petrol station attached to it, rather than the other way round. Along the road to the coast, Fab Live has deep leather seats, a bar with huge whiskey bottles, a semi-enclosed terrace with garden views, screens for sports and a menu with decent sandwiches, toast, pizza and pancakes. At the UPM petrol station, 100 metres past the airport turnoff. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. PA

Bars

Podgorica In Your Pocket

24

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

nigHtLiFe

nigHtLiFe Pubs

Four Leprechauns E-2, Hercegovačka 71, tel. +382

Wine bars

25

the crowd won’t make your day, the cheerful bar staff certai will. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00-03:00. PE

Bocun D/E-2, Trg Republike 27, tel. +382 67 918

Shass D-3, Slobode 2, tel. +382 69 70 47 04. A big and 81 88. ‘The decanter’ is a popular wine bar on the modern club, popular for the Balkan music stars who ofte main square with about 80 wines in stock from across perform live. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00. PE the Balkan region and the world. Good for a quick sip in between shopping or business, many of the wines Theare Market E-2, Trg Republike bb, tel. +382 67 83 38 88, available by the glass, accompanied by snacks. Wewww.the-market.me. were Show the world’s disgraced bankers served a delicious red 2007 Zenta, from near Podgorica. and stockmarket brokers how it’s done by hedging orders f your drinks at The Market. Beer prices fluctuate according QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PAB demand, with current prices displayed on screens. Plus, as y Vinoteka B-1, Vasa Raičkovića bb, tel. +382 68 00 Highland D-2, Hercegovačka 3, tel. +382 67 38 30 spend more, your whole seating booth is raised incremental 07 77, [email protected]. More thanmaking it easy to spot the big shots. Mainstream and techn 53. Podgorica’s Scottish pub is set at the end of the main 200 wines are available from the cellar of this pleasant pedestrian street, just at the point where the pretty boys music lovers are catered to until midnight, after which the p proand girls turn around for another run. Inside, the tartan-clad traditional restaurant, served with snacks such as goes mental with famous Montenegrin and Serbian tunes bla sciutto, cheese and figs, or with one of the manying grilled from the speakers. Make sure to book by Wednesday if y interior has a Latin slogan saying ‘In vain does a man meat, fish or vegetarian dishes. Outside there’s a shaded possess property if he makes no use of it’. The bar has want to sit on Friday. Q Open 22:00 - 03:00. PAE terrace beneath the pine trees, indoors high tables and impressive collection of 60 whiskeys (10-40 years old), chairs are good for informal wine-tasting sessions. Next D-2, Bokeška 24, tel. +382 69 88 48 84. When Velvet some 20 varieties of cognac as well as 15 beers, several on tap. For something special, ask the bartender for a whiskey it comes to quality clubs in Podgorica, size clearly does n door to Leonardo. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAB matter. This most sleek of local clubs is a real looker, wit cocktail. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00. PAEB a gleaming white interior and a central bar island. But i Irish Pub Saint Patrick E-2, Slobode 73, tel. +382 Porto D-1, Stanka Dragojevića 34, tel. +382 67 33 08 the guests that are the real lookers - dress to impress here 69 78 08 88/+382 67 40 32 63, [email protected], 88. The classic Podgorica club featuring cramped and sweaty Q OpenThu-Sat 19:00-03:00. P conditions for vertical drinking amidst rampant, ear-bursting www.prviirskipab.me. Proudly established in 1997, the country’s first Irish Pub is Irish in name only when they local DJs. If this isn’t torture enough, squeeze your way up run out of Guinness and Kilkenny. The locals don’t really the rickety stairs and see if you can find any air to breathe in Crnahot Gora Casino E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2 (Crna care, and are happy to drink Danish lager instead, filling the small attic space over the bar. Often devastatingly the small place up on rowdy weekend nights regardless. and loud. Q Open 21:00 - 03:00. PE Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 63 48 23. Make your way up the carpeted staircase past the No guns sign and find a small, Q Open 08:00 - 01:00. PAEBW Riter E-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 23, tel. +382 68 03 10 classy room with astonishing chandeliers, small bar, an ample opportunities to lose your shirt over a few games o 55, [email protected]. Down an alley and down some stairs, this small, medieval-themed knight clubblack has booth jack, roulette and poker. Free entrance for hotel gues Admission to Podgorica’s modest clubs is usually free. A seating with upholstered green seats and shields on Q theOpen wall. 24hrs. If Pub 111 E-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 99, tel. +382 68 30 08 charge of €5-10 may apply on nights when bands or bigname DJs play. 88. One of the funkiest interiors in town, a high two-storey whitestone saloon lined with booths, is host to a crowd of young revelCulto E-2, Hercegovačka 50, tel. +382 69 02 27 lers on weekend nights. Q Open 08:00 - 03:00.PABW 18/+382 68 54 55 45. A small one-room basement The Nag’s Head D-2, Bokeška 12, tel. +382 69 67 16 club run by and for young people, with a macho, gangsta 68/+382 68 23 38 13. The UK television series Only Fools paradise atmosphere. Parties here are full-on and quickly and Horses was immensely popular in Yugoslavia. This bar infectious. Q Open 21:00 - 03:00. PAEW was named in honour of Del and Rodney’s local pub, and the Garden D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 26a, tel. informal dark wooden interior is filled with picturesGreen of the two +382 68 55 50 20, [email protected]. “We anti-heroes. Q Open 07:30 - 01:00. PAEB play whatever people want us to play,” says the owner of Tropicana D-2, Bokeška 16, tel. +382 69 50 46 38. Simply Green Garden, and that means they mainly play loud, fast furnished and with some fine modern art on the walls,turbo Tropicana folk, all night long. The energy in the club gets really pulls a decent crowd of arty types and business professionals infectious, be- especially on a Saturday night, when the place fore and after performances at the Montenegrin National Theatre is packed - and you can party till you drop. Q Open 22:00 across the street. Extras include a music policy that -refuses 03:00.to PE play anything other than 1970s soft rock and a small screen for Insomnia D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 26, tel. +382 69 showing big sporting events. Q Open 08:00 - 04:00. PBW 63 21 00. Another typical Podgorica night club - small and often packed to its 150-person capacity. Techno music runs until 23:00, after that the tune changes to home-made pop, folk and whatever else the crowd wants to hear. DJs from the area are regular guests, welL’Ombelico E-2, Hercegovačka 85, tel. +382 67 20 comed by ecstatic hand waving. Q Open 22:00 - 03:00. 17 90, [email protected], www.lombelico. PE me. One of the larger venues in town, ‘The Bellybutton’ has the local fluff swarming across its two floors, withClub 19 Decembra 5 (City Stadium), tel. +382 Mint dining (pasta dishes and sandwiches) upstairs,68and 65 65 65/+382 20 66 48 48. By day a nice restaubands and DJs playing house, techno, pop, rock and jazz rant, by night a wild party place with a lot of room to dance in the underground area from Wednesday to Sunday. If and have fun. This club can comfortably fit 600 people, the music disappoints, there are always the photos of makes it one of the largest night clubs in Podgorica. which breasts and other female body parts to look at. QMint Open plays mostly top hits, though they regularly have live 09:00 - 03:00. Admission free. PAEBW shows with Balkan stars and DJs that really get the locals in a frenzy. Q Open Thu-Sat 22:00-05:00. PE 67 54 52 95/+382 69 49 82 97. The only pub in the city and perhaps the whole country to proudly serve Guinness on tap (at Western prices), this Irish Pub also has plenty of whiskeys available in bottles as well as all the prerequisite scruffy Irish paraphernalia clinging to the walls. Expats can also often be found clinging to the bar, and it’s a good place to hear foreign accents. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. PAE

Casinos

Clubs

Live music

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

24

nigHtLiFe

nigHtLiFe Pubs

Four Leprechauns E-2, Hercegovačka 71, tel. +382

Wine bars

25

the crowd won’t make your day, the cheerful bar staff certai will. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00-03:00. PE

Bocun D/E-2, Trg Republike 27, tel. +382 67 918

Shass D-3, Slobode 2, tel. +382 69 70 47 04. A big and 81 88. ‘The decanter’ is a popular wine bar on the modern club, popular for the Balkan music stars who ofte main square with about 80 wines in stock from across perform live. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00. PE the Balkan region and the world. Good for a quick sip in between shopping or business, many of the wines Theare Market E-2, Trg Republike bb, tel. +382 67 83 38 88, available by the glass, accompanied by snacks. Wewww.the-market.me. were Show the world’s disgraced bankers served a delicious red 2007 Zenta, from near Podgorica. and stockmarket brokers how it’s done by hedging orders f your drinks at The Market. Beer prices fluctuate according QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PAB demand, with current prices displayed on screens. Plus, as y Vinoteka B-1, Vasa Raičkovića bb, tel. +382 68 00 Highland D-2, Hercegovačka 3, tel. +382 67 38 30 spend more, your whole seating booth is raised incremental 07 77, [email protected]. More thanmaking it easy to spot the big shots. Mainstream and techn 53. Podgorica’s Scottish pub is set at the end of the main 200 wines are available from the cellar of this pleasant pedestrian street, just at the point where the pretty boys music lovers are catered to until midnight, after which the p proand girls turn around for another run. Inside, the tartan-clad traditional restaurant, served with snacks such as goes mental with famous Montenegrin and Serbian tunes bla sciutto, cheese and figs, or with one of the manying grilled from the speakers. Make sure to book by Wednesday if y interior has a Latin slogan saying ‘In vain does a man meat, fish or vegetarian dishes. Outside there’s a shaded possess property if he makes no use of it’. The bar has want to sit on Friday. Q Open 22:00 - 03:00. PAE terrace beneath the pine trees, indoors high tables and impressive collection of 60 whiskeys (10-40 years old), chairs are good for informal wine-tasting sessions. Next D-2, Bokeška 24, tel. +382 69 88 48 84. When Velvet some 20 varieties of cognac as well as 15 beers, several on tap. For something special, ask the bartender for a whiskey it comes to quality clubs in Podgorica, size clearly does n door to Leonardo. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAB matter. This most sleek of local clubs is a real looker, wit cocktail. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00. PAEB a gleaming white interior and a central bar island. But i Irish Pub Saint Patrick E-2, Slobode 73, tel. +382 Porto D-1, Stanka Dragojevića 34, tel. +382 67 33 08 the guests that are the real lookers - dress to impress here 69 78 08 88/+382 67 40 32 63, [email protected], 88. The classic Podgorica club featuring cramped and sweaty Q OpenThu-Sat 19:00-03:00. P conditions for vertical drinking amidst rampant, ear-bursting www.prviirskipab.me. Proudly established in 1997, the country’s first Irish Pub is Irish in name only when they local DJs. If this isn’t torture enough, squeeze your way up run out of Guinness and Kilkenny. The locals don’t really the rickety stairs and see if you can find any air to breathe in Crnahot Gora Casino E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2 (Crna care, and are happy to drink Danish lager instead, filling the small attic space over the bar. Often devastatingly the small place up on rowdy weekend nights regardless. and loud. Q Open 21:00 - 03:00. PE Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 63 48 23. Make your way up the carpeted staircase past the No guns sign and find a small, Q Open 08:00 - 01:00. PAEBW Riter E-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 23, tel. +382 68 03 10 classy room with astonishing chandeliers, small bar, an ample opportunities to lose your shirt over a few games o 55, [email protected]. Down an alley and down some stairs, this small, medieval-themed knight clubblack has booth jack, roulette and poker. Free entrance for hotel gues Admission to Podgorica’s modest clubs is usually free. A seating with upholstered green seats and shields on Q theOpen wall. 24hrs. If Pub 111 E-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 99, tel. +382 68 30 08 charge of €5-10 may apply on nights when bands or bigname DJs play. 88. One of the funkiest interiors in town, a high two-storey whitestone saloon lined with booths, is host to a crowd of young revelCulto E-2, Hercegovačka 50, tel. +382 69 02 27 lers on weekend nights. Q Open 08:00 - 03:00.PABW 18/+382 68 54 55 45. A small one-room basement The Nag’s Head D-2, Bokeška 12, tel. +382 69 67 16 club run by and for young people, with a macho, gangsta 68/+382 68 23 38 13. The UK television series Only Fools paradise atmosphere. Parties here are full-on and quickly and Horses was immensely popular in Yugoslavia. This bar infectious. Q Open 21:00 - 03:00. PAEW was named in honour of Del and Rodney’s local pub, and the Garden D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 26a, tel. informal dark wooden interior is filled with picturesGreen of the two +382 68 55 50 20, [email protected]. “We anti-heroes. Q Open 07:30 - 01:00. PAEB play whatever people want us to play,” says the owner of Tropicana D-2, Bokeška 16, tel. +382 69 50 46 38. Simply Green Garden, and that means they mainly play loud, fast furnished and with some fine modern art on the walls,turbo Tropicana folk, all night long. The energy in the club gets really pulls a decent crowd of arty types and business professionals infectious, be- especially on a Saturday night, when the place fore and after performances at the Montenegrin National Theatre is packed - and you can party till you drop. Q Open 22:00 across the street. Extras include a music policy that -refuses 03:00.to PE play anything other than 1970s soft rock and a small screen for Insomnia D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 26, tel. +382 69 showing big sporting events. Q Open 08:00 - 04:00. PBW 63 21 00. Another typical Podgorica night club - small and often packed to its 150-person capacity. Techno music runs until 23:00, after that the tune changes to home-made pop, folk and whatever else the crowd wants to hear. DJs from the area are regular guests, welL’Ombelico E-2, Hercegovačka 85, tel. +382 67 20 comed by ecstatic hand waving. Q Open 22:00 - 03:00. 17 90, [email protected], www.lombelico. PE me. One of the larger venues in town, ‘The Bellybutton’ has the local fluff swarming across its two floors, withClub 19 Decembra 5 (City Stadium), tel. +382 Mint dining (pasta dishes and sandwiches) upstairs,68and 65 65 65/+382 20 66 48 48. By day a nice restaubands and DJs playing house, techno, pop, rock and jazz rant, by night a wild party place with a lot of room to dance in the underground area from Wednesday to Sunday. If and have fun. This club can comfortably fit 600 people, the music disappoints, there are always the photos of makes it one of the largest night clubs in Podgorica. which breasts and other female body parts to look at. QMint Open plays mostly top hits, though they regularly have live 09:00 - 03:00. Admission free. PAEBW shows with Balkan stars and DJs that really get the locals in a frenzy. Q Open Thu-Sat 22:00-05:00. PE 67 54 52 95/+382 69 49 82 97. The only pub in the city and perhaps the whole country to proudly serve Guinness on tap (at Western prices), this Irish Pub also has plenty of whiskeys available in bottles as well as all the prerequisite scruffy Irish paraphernalia clinging to the walls. Expats can also often be found clinging to the bar, and it’s a good place to hear foreign accents. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. PAE

Casinos

Clubs

Live music

Podgorica In Your Pocket

26

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

wHat wHatto tosee see

wHat to see Bridges

27

Cetinje & Mount Lovćen

People will tell you that Podgorica is Europe’s most Founded boringin the 1st century AD, the city was built on a plateau capital. That it has no museums, churches or sights near of the confluence of the Zeta and Moraca rivers and had note. They are all wrong. The wonderfully situated a Banja forum, temples, basilica, thermal pools and a necropolis. Millennium Bridge (Most Milenijum) C/D-1, Bul. bathhouse and the wacky concrete Catholic church Becoming are the provincial capital around 300AD and housing Ivana Crnojevića. Ironically finished five years after the worth the trip alone. some 40,000 people, it lost power after the 4th century new millennium, this 140 metre-long cable-stayed bridge has invasions and was eventually ravaged by a lethal combina- become Podgorica’s landmark structure (for lack of better). tion of Goths, Slavs and earthquakes. A low wall, medieval The eye-catching bridge has a 57-metre high pylon which defence towers, a partially uncovered road and some other holds 36 elegantly splayed cables. The landscaped area has Doclea (Duklja) Rogami bb, 4km north of Podgorica, scattered remnants are visible today. It’s possible to walk benches and is lit up very nicely at night. to Doclea by following the east bank of the river north from tel. +382 20 24 26 05. The city of Doclea, also know as Duklja or Diokletija, is Montenegro’s foremost ancient the City site. Stadium and crossing the railway bridge.

Antiquities

Churches

Cathedral of the Resurrection (Saborni Hram Hristovog Vaskrsenja) A/B-1, Bul. Džordža

Monuments & Memorials Bird of Peace (Ptica Mira) D-1, Serdara Jola Piletića.

The extraordinary Bird of Peace statue outside the Palada shopping centre is made from old guns, as are the seats around the statue. Unveiled in 2005, this is the result of the “Weapons in Art” initiative by the government in collaboration with UNDP . The sculpture is made of 500 weapons that were voluntarily handed in by the local population after the 1990s Balkan wars during the successful “Respect life give back weapons” campaign. Artists from Montenegro, Serbia, Macedonia and Bosnia Herzegovina collaborated on the artworks.

Karađorđe Petrović Monument E-3, Karađorđev

Park. The 3.5 metre high bronze monument for Karađorđe Petrović (1768-1817), depicts the famed general and politician with a sword. He’s best known as a national leader of the First Serbian uprising against the Ottomans in 1804. The statue was made by sculptor Sreten Stojanović in the 1960s and stands in the Karađorđev Park named after him, beside the Crna Gora hotel.

King Nikola Petrović Monument D-3, Bul. Sv. Petra The Karađorđe statue

JvM Cetinjskog. King Nikola (1841-1921) was the last king of St PetarfourCetinjski Monument (Spomenik Svetom Montenegro, a general, politician and poet. His impressive Cetinjskom) A-2, . Petar I Petrović Njegoš (1747metre high statue, made by Risto Radmilović andPetru situated in the park opposite Parliament, was unveiled in 20051830), and shows later known as Saint Petar Cetinjski was the bishop Nikola seated on a horse on a red granite pedestal. and founder of modern Montenegrin state. His three tonne, 6.8-metre-high statue in the Novi Grad district was sculpted Partizan Memorial (Spomenik Partizanu borcu) by Nenad Šoškić and unveiled in 2006, and shows the saint in his modest bishop’s gown. E-1, Gorica Hill Park. Podgorica’s most impressive memorial is this gleaming white mausoleum flanked by fierce-looking Bomb (Bomba) E-2, Miljana Vukova. The “Memorial Partizan fighters on Gorica Hill. Built by architect The Vojislav Đokić and sculptor Dragan Đurovic after a suggestion to in the 1953 Innocent by Victims of the Bombing of Podgorica in World the Republican Alliance of Fighters, the grave and War monument I and II”, known locally simply as ‘The Bomb’, was placed to national heroes was finished in 1957, when the in the mortal open courtyard of this building in 1994, and commemoremains of the Partizans were laid to rest in the crypt. rates Above the 4,100 citizens killed during the 70 Allied bombing the crypt stands a grey marble slab with Partizanu raids Borcu between in 1943 and 1945, as well as the local casualties golden letters, with the incription “They loved freedom of the First moreWorld War. Architect Basil Knežević designed the than life” above it. The columns on either side monument, have text consisting of a triangular steel support holding up reading “In the war of national liberation from a 1941-1945, large black bomb, with a bronze plaque. 6,780 fighters from Montenegro fell”, and “7,479 sons and Vladimir Vysotsky Monument (Spomenik Vladimiru daughters of Montenegrin people were killed by fascist occupiers and domestic traitors”, followed by theVisockom) names of C-1, Jovana Tomaševića. A wacky statue on the the national heroes. western side of the Moskovski pedestrian bridge commemorates this Russian poet, signer and actor. From the 1960s until Petar II Petrović Njegoš Monument (Spomenik his mysterious death in 1980, he wrote over 700 songs, many Petru II Petroviću Njegošu) D-2, Stanka Dragojevića. of which were translated into the Slavic languages of the other The grand-looking figure sculpted in a seated position Eastern with European a countries. The hidden political satire in the pensive look and a book in his hand is Petar II Petrović lyricsNjegoš, made his songs all the more appealing. He toured through the bishop, ruler, writer and philosopher. LocatedYugoslavia in the park and various other countries. His statue in Podgorica that bears his name, it was made by Sreten Stojanović shows him in barefoot and barechested, clutching his guitar, and 1954 and depicts the national hero in traditional Montenegrin surrounded by a mirror frame and a skull, reminding of his last ceremonial costume. part in Hamlet, a few days before his death.

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20 22 50 30, [email protected], www.sabornihram.org. The massive new Orthodox cathedral has been under construction in the view from Mount Lovćen Sco Novi Grad area for a few years now. The exterior The is now finished, revealing an intriguing mix of rough stone High at up in the mountains, 30 kilometres west of Podbottom of the building and polished stone with elaborate gorica, Cetinje (www.cetinje.me) was Montenegro’s carvings further up. Inside, the crypt and dome paintings capital city from the 15th century until 1946. It’s an are finished and can already be viewed. important cultural, religious and historical centre for Montenegrins and even though it never had more than a Church of the Holy Heart of Jesus (Crkva Presfew thousand inhabitants throughout its chequered past, vetog Srca Isusovog) K-2, Zagrebačka 3, tel. +382 Cetinje is still regarded as the country’s true capital by 20 60 72 30/+382 20 62 82 10, www.donbosko.si/ many. In the 19th century the town boomed and many podgorica. In a suburb east of the centre, Podgorica’simpressive embassy buildings were erected along with Catholic church is an amazing work of modern architecture. palaces. Some national institutes such as the president’s Replacing the city centre church that was destroyed inand the national library are still located here, it’s palace the war, the bold and brutal concrete building wasvery built in a backwater, with the real decisions being much 1969 to look like a ship. The facade was never finished, made downhill in Podgorica. Nowadays, Cetinje has a so it looks a bit like a disused factory. From the dark intecalm spa resort feeling to it, with fresh mountain air and rior, an ingenious 25-metre high tower sticks up, filtering people strolling aimlessly all over the place, eating pizza light to illuminate the main altar. There’s a 40-metre andhigh ice cream or buying tourist tat from the stands on freestanding bell tower too, as well as smashing concrete the main square. spiral staircases. Cetinje lives in the past, and there’s a multitude of museums to visit grouped around the main square. All are open St. George’s Church (Crkva Svetog Đorđa) E-1, 19 09:00-17:00 except on Mondays and admission costs Decembra. Podgorica’s oldest and prettiest church is placed€3-5. The National museum (Državni Muzej) inside King between fragrant trees at the foot of Gorica hill. Inside the palace can only be visited on guided tours, but Nicholas’ simple structure, the dark 16th century nave is adorned with the effort as it has beautiful period rooms from it’s worth 19th century icons and frescoes. The front room has1867, a small filled with paintings and ferocious-looking swords shop where religious trinkets, magnetic icons and candles The are Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej), set sold. For some spookytime, walk into the overgrown in derelict the former Serbian embassy, is a good place to learn cemetery directly behind the church - the sadly vandalised about Montenegro’s colourful traditional clothing and the crypts allow you to peek inside graves. development of national art. The large History Museum (Istorijski Muzej) is a rambling complex of rooms with exhibits including Turkish flags and old weapons, while the Art Museum (Umjetnički Muzej) has a good collection of icons and modern art. Finally, the Cetinje Monastery Museum (Manastirska Riznica) has valuable items from the treasury on show. Cetinje is the gateway to the Lovćen National Park (Nacionalni Park Lovćen, admission €1 in summer, mausoleum €2), the 62 square kilometres of stunning mountain scenery area that forms the backdrop of the Bay of Kotor. It’s a short drive from town to the park entrance, and as you wind your way uphill you pass weird rock formations, forests and meadows. There’s good hiking here, though most visitors continue to make the steep ascent to the mountain’s Jezerskom Vrhu (Lake Peak, 1,660m), 21km from Cetinje. This barren mountaintop not only offers fantastic views of much of Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor, it also is where Pe II Petrović Njegoš’ Mausoleum (Njegošev Mauzolej) stands and where Montenegrins come to pay respect to the great statesman and poet. The 1974 building and the viewpoint are reached up a long flight of stairs tunnelled into the mountainside. Cathedral of the Ressurection JvM

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

26

wHat wHatto tosee see

wHat to see Bridges

27

Cetinje & Mount Lovćen

People will tell you that Podgorica is Europe’s most Founded boringin the 1st century AD, the city was built on a plateau capital. That it has no museums, churches or sights near of the confluence of the Zeta and Moraca rivers and had note. They are all wrong. The wonderfully situated a Banja forum, temples, basilica, thermal pools and a necropolis. Millennium Bridge (Most Milenijum) C/D-1, Bul. bathhouse and the wacky concrete Catholic church Becoming are the provincial capital around 300AD and housing Ivana Crnojevića. Ironically finished five years after the worth the trip alone. some 40,000 people, it lost power after the 4th century new millennium, this 140 metre-long cable-stayed bridge has invasions and was eventually ravaged by a lethal combina- become Podgorica’s landmark structure (for lack of better). tion of Goths, Slavs and earthquakes. A low wall, medieval The eye-catching bridge has a 57-metre high pylon which defence towers, a partially uncovered road and some other holds 36 elegantly splayed cables. The landscaped area has Doclea (Duklja) Rogami bb, 4km north of Podgorica, scattered remnants are visible today. It’s possible to walk benches and is lit up very nicely at night. to Doclea by following the east bank of the river north from tel. +382 20 24 26 05. The city of Doclea, also know as Duklja or Diokletija, is Montenegro’s foremost ancient the City site. Stadium and crossing the railway bridge.

Antiquities

Churches

Cathedral of the Resurrection (Saborni Hram Hristovog Vaskrsenja) A/B-1, Bul. Džordža

Monuments & Memorials Bird of Peace (Ptica Mira) D-1, Serdara Jola Piletića.

The extraordinary Bird of Peace statue outside the Palada shopping centre is made from old guns, as are the seats around the statue. Unveiled in 2005, this is the result of the “Weapons in Art” initiative by the government in collaboration with UNDP . The sculpture is made of 500 weapons that were voluntarily handed in by the local population after the 1990s Balkan wars during the successful “Respect life give back weapons” campaign. Artists from Montenegro, Serbia, Macedonia and Bosnia Herzegovina collaborated on the artworks.

Karađorđe Petrović Monument E-3, Karađorđev

Park. The 3.5 metre high bronze monument for Karađorđe Petrović (1768-1817), depicts the famed general and politician with a sword. He’s best known as a national leader of the First Serbian uprising against the Ottomans in 1804. The statue was made by sculptor Sreten Stojanović in the 1960s and stands in the Karađorđev Park named after him, beside the Crna Gora hotel.

King Nikola Petrović Monument D-3, Bul. Sv. Petra The Karađorđe statue

JvM Cetinjskog. King Nikola (1841-1921) was the last king of St PetarfourCetinjski Monument (Spomenik Svetom Montenegro, a general, politician and poet. His impressive Cetinjskom) A-2, . Petar I Petrović Njegoš (1747metre high statue, made by Risto Radmilović andPetru situated in the park opposite Parliament, was unveiled in 20051830), and shows later known as Saint Petar Cetinjski was the bishop Nikola seated on a horse on a red granite pedestal. and founder of modern Montenegrin state. His three tonne, 6.8-metre-high statue in the Novi Grad district was sculpted Partizan Memorial (Spomenik Partizanu borcu) by Nenad Šoškić and unveiled in 2006, and shows the saint in his modest bishop’s gown. E-1, Gorica Hill Park. Podgorica’s most impressive memorial is this gleaming white mausoleum flanked by fierce-looking Bomb (Bomba) E-2, Miljana Vukova. The “Memorial Partizan fighters on Gorica Hill. Built by architect The Vojislav Đokić and sculptor Dragan Đurovic after a suggestion to in the 1953 Innocent by Victims of the Bombing of Podgorica in World the Republican Alliance of Fighters, the grave and War monument I and II”, known locally simply as ‘The Bomb’, was placed to national heroes was finished in 1957, when the in the mortal open courtyard of this building in 1994, and commemoremains of the Partizans were laid to rest in the crypt. rates Above the 4,100 citizens killed during the 70 Allied bombing the crypt stands a grey marble slab with Partizanu raids Borcu between in 1943 and 1945, as well as the local casualties golden letters, with the incription “They loved freedom of the First moreWorld War. Architect Basil Knežević designed the than life” above it. The columns on either side monument, have text consisting of a triangular steel support holding up reading “In the war of national liberation from a 1941-1945, large black bomb, with a bronze plaque. 6,780 fighters from Montenegro fell”, and “7,479 sons and Vladimir Vysotsky Monument (Spomenik Vladimiru daughters of Montenegrin people were killed by fascist occupiers and domestic traitors”, followed by theVisockom) names of C-1, Jovana Tomaševića. A wacky statue on the the national heroes. western side of the Moskovski pedestrian bridge commemorates this Russian poet, signer and actor. From the 1960s until Petar II Petrović Njegoš Monument (Spomenik his mysterious death in 1980, he wrote over 700 songs, many Petru II Petroviću Njegošu) D-2, Stanka Dragojevića. of which were translated into the Slavic languages of the other The grand-looking figure sculpted in a seated position Eastern with European a countries. The hidden political satire in the pensive look and a book in his hand is Petar II Petrović lyricsNjegoš, made his songs all the more appealing. He toured through the bishop, ruler, writer and philosopher. LocatedYugoslavia in the park and various other countries. His statue in Podgorica that bears his name, it was made by Sreten Stojanović shows him in barefoot and barechested, clutching his guitar, and 1954 and depicts the national hero in traditional Montenegrin surrounded by a mirror frame and a skull, reminding of his last ceremonial costume. part in Hamlet, a few days before his death.

Podgorica In Your Pocket

28

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20 22 50 30, [email protected], www.sabornihram.org. The massive new Orthodox cathedral has been under construction in the view from Mount Lovćen Sco Novi Grad area for a few years now. The exterior The is now finished, revealing an intriguing mix of rough stone High at up in the mountains, 30 kilometres west of Podbottom of the building and polished stone with elaborate gorica, Cetinje (www.cetinje.me) was Montenegro’s carvings further up. Inside, the crypt and dome paintings capital city from the 15th century until 1946. It’s an are finished and can already be viewed. important cultural, religious and historical centre for Montenegrins and even though it never had more than a Church of the Holy Heart of Jesus (Crkva Presfew thousand inhabitants throughout its chequered past, vetog Srca Isusovog) K-2, Zagrebačka 3, tel. +382 Cetinje is still regarded as the country’s true capital by 20 60 72 30/+382 20 62 82 10, www.donbosko.si/ many. In the 19th century the town boomed and many podgorica. In a suburb east of the centre, Podgorica’simpressive embassy buildings were erected along with Catholic church is an amazing work of modern architecture. palaces. Some national institutes such as the president’s Replacing the city centre church that was destroyed inand the national library are still located here, it’s palace the war, the bold and brutal concrete building wasvery built in a backwater, with the real decisions being much 1969 to look like a ship. The facade was never finished, made downhill in Podgorica. Nowadays, Cetinje has a so it looks a bit like a disused factory. From the dark intecalm spa resort feeling to it, with fresh mountain air and rior, an ingenious 25-metre high tower sticks up, filtering people strolling aimlessly all over the place, eating pizza light to illuminate the main altar. There’s a 40-metre andhigh ice cream or buying tourist tat from the stands on freestanding bell tower too, as well as smashing concrete the main square. spiral staircases. Cetinje lives in the past, and there’s a multitude of museums to visit grouped around the main square. All are open St. George’s Church (Crkva Svetog Đorđa) E-1, 19 09:00-17:00 except on Mondays and admission costs Decembra. Podgorica’s oldest and prettiest church is placed€3-5. The National museum (Državni Muzej) inside King between fragrant trees at the foot of Gorica hill. Inside the palace can only be visited on guided tours, but Nicholas’ simple structure, the dark 16th century nave is adorned with the effort as it has beautiful period rooms from it’s worth 19th century icons and frescoes. The front room has1867, a small filled with paintings and ferocious-looking swords shop where religious trinkets, magnetic icons and candles The are Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej), set sold. For some spookytime, walk into the overgrown in derelict the former Serbian embassy, is a good place to learn cemetery directly behind the church - the sadly vandalised about Montenegro’s colourful traditional clothing and the crypts allow you to peek inside graves. development of national art. The large History Museum (Istorijski Muzej) is a rambling complex of rooms with exhibits including Turkish flags and old weapons, while the Art Museum (Umjetnički Muzej) has a good collection of icons and modern art. Finally, the Cetinje Monastery Museum (Manastirska Riznica) has valuable items from the treasury on show. Cetinje is the gateway to the Lovćen National Park (Nacionalni Park Lovćen, admission €1 in summer, mausoleum €2), the 62 square kilometres of stunning mountain scenery area that forms the backdrop of the Bay of Kotor. It’s a short drive from town to the park entrance, and as you wind your way uphill you pass weird rock formations, forests and meadows. There’s good hiking here, though most visitors continue to make the steep ascent to the mountain’s Jezerskom Vrhu (Lake Peak, 1,660m), 21km from Cetinje. This barren mountaintop not only offers fantastic views of much of Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor, it also is where Pe II Petrović Njegoš’ Mausoleum (Njegošev Mauzolej) stands and where Montenegrins come to pay respect to the great statesman and poet. The 1974 building and the viewpoint are reached up a long flight of stairs tunnelled into the mountainside. Cathedral of the Ressurection JvM

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

kotor

wHat to see Museums & Galleries

November 2010 - April 2011

29

Clock Tower (Sahat Kula) D-3, Trg Vojvode Bećira

Kotor, known as Cattaro in medieval times, has the most dramatic setting of any town along the MediterOsmanagića. Every Ottoman-ruled town had a clock tower to Modern Art Gallery (Centar Savremene Umjetnosindicate the Muslim prayer times, and Podgorica’s 18th century ranean Sea. In the far corner of the impressive Kotor ti) B-3, Ljubljanska, tel. +382 20 24 35 13. Podgorica’s tower is one of the few remaining structures from the time. The bay, surrounded by 1,400 metre high mountains, its most elegant building, the pretty white Petrović Palace tall stone that tower hasn’t actually got a clock, but that doesn’t medieval stone churches and houses huddle together formerly belonged to King Nikola, is home to the modern seem toart bother anyone. The tower isn’t open for visitors. within a small triangle of mighty fortress walls, squeezed between the waterfront and the mountains raising sheer collection of the city museum. The museum features a lot of African and Asian paintings and sculptures, butOld alsotown has (Stara varoš) D-3, . A warren of quiet residential up behind. It’s been a UNESCO World Heritage site since rooms with Montenegrin 20th century art with works streets by Risto between the Morača river and Kralja Nikole is all that 1979, and you’d be mad not to visit. With a population of Stijović, Milo Milunović, Filo Filipović and others. If remains they’reofnot Podgorica’s old town. Wandering around here, you’ll 14,000 it is situated just 80km from Podgorica, 10km on display, ask to be shown the collection of gifts made come across to the small Osmanagići and Glavatovići mosques, from Tivat airport and 90km from Dubrovnik, and is wellTito by presidents and dictators including Gaddafi and some Sadam old residential houses and the Clock Tower. connected by bus. Hussein. Find the palace up the stairs in the lush park behind View of the Bay of Kotor Sco the US embassy. Q Open 07:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sat Ribnica Bridge (Most na Ribnici) D-2, Stara Varoš. A 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. cute 15th century Ottoman arched bridge spans the Ribnica river near the confluence with the Morača. Best reached via Kotor has many small hotels and apartments bothRendez in and Vous L-1, Trg od Mlijeka, Stari grad, tel./fax Natural History Museum (Prirodnjački Muzej) +382 32 32 39 31, tel. +382 69 04 33 77, rendezvouskothe steps going down near the Blaža Jovanovića bridge. outside the old town. Beware that in summer the noise D-3, Trg Vojvode Bećir Bega Osmanagića 16, tel. +382 from the bars in much of the old town are such that you [email protected], www.rendezvouskotor.com. Located Ribnica Fortress (Tvrđava na Ribnici) D-3, Stara 20 63 31 84/+382 20 62 35 44, [email protected], won’t get much sleep until daybreak - and that’s when on one the of the smaller squares in the old town, this hotel h sweepers come and clang the bins about. Choose small, your basic rooms and a large restaurant that’s popular wi www.pmcg.co.me. A biologer’s dream, this museum housevaroš. s Erected at the confluence of the Ribnica and Morača the locals. Ask for a top-floor room for good views of tow all knowledge there is about algae, plants and animals rivers by in the Turks when they invaded in 1474, Ribnica For- room very carefully. Montenegro. The small exhibition room often hosts tresstemwas once a massive castle. Nowadays, all that remains Q 14rooms(2singles€25,6doubles€50,2triples€60, Cattaro L-1, Stari grad 433, tel. +382 32 31 10 00, fax are some rubbish-strewn fields and the crumbling tower walls apartments €60). PAKW hh porary shows on things like pelicans. Q Open 09:00-17:00. +382 32 31 10 80, [email protected], www.catClosed Sat, Sun. on the cliff overlooking the two rivers. Splendido Glavati bb, Prčanj, tel. +382 32 30 17 00, tarohotel.com. One of Kotor’s best hotels, built inside the Podgorica Museum (Muzeji i Galerije Podgorice) Turkish Bathhouse (Tursko Kupatilo) E-3, Obala fax +382 32 33 62 22, [email protected], www. reconstructed Napoleontic theatre and a wing of the duke’s palace, with all rooms overlooking the main square. The décor is E-3, Marka Miljanova 4, tel. +382 20 24 25 43. The Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25. The old splendido-hotel.com. Just out of town, a short taxi ride frames. city’s main museum has a good collection of archaeological, Turkish bath complex, Podgorica’s largest remaining historical classy, with flatscreen TVs embedded in dark woodenalong the very scary road to the Kamenari ferry crossing, t religious icons, books and other historical objects. Especially building, can be found hidden in the Ribnica river gorge east ofApartments are large and sleep three people. The hotel splendidly also located 18th century building has great views ov the elegant Copper age, Illirian and Roman items from the centre. nearby It was unfortunately decapitated by city planners has a casino upstairs. Q 18 rooms (singles €69, doubles €99,Kotor and the bay, a pool and private beach. It’s named afte ancient Doclea are worth looking up. A special section who apparently is insisted on building a bridge following the grid apartment €180). POARFBKW hhhh the first ship to sail around the world from Kotor (which actu dedicated to Božidar Vučković, a very productive structure 16th cen- of the city, even if it meant ruining this building. came back). The rooms in the main building are small, b tury printer. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Roofless, it is now stuck underneath the Novi Most bridge, Forza Lux L-1, Stari grad, Trg od Drva, tel. +382 32 30 those in the newer annex are fine. Open from April 2010. Closed Mon. and has been transformed into a rather wonderful cultural 40 68/+382 32 33 35 00, [email protected]. 43 A rooms (singles € 61-65, doubles €88-93, 3 apartments centre. Nothing remains of the original interior. beautiful boutique hotel housed in an stone palace€111). in the PHALBKCW old hhhh town. The rooms exude luxury with their fine materials and Vardar pastel colours, and the huge two-person apartment comes L-1, Stari grad 476, tel. +382 32 32 50 84, fax +382 32 Wars and time have left little to remind you of the Otwith fitness machines and a Jacuzzi. Breakfast is served in a32 50 74, [email protected], www.hoteltoman’s five-century domination of Podgorica andWalk the or drive through Podgorica and you can’t help but notice medieval dining room. Q 6 rooms (5 doubles €130, 1 apartvardar.com. Right on Kotor’s main square and equipped with surrounding region. The beautiful arched Vezirov how Mostgreen the city is. There are small parks and flower beds one of the most popular terraces, the Vardar i snamed after ment €180). PARFBKDCW hhhh bridge spanning the Morača was blown up by the between retreat- suburban buildings, a tradition started during the river in Macedonia and has comfortable rooms that provid Marija L-1, Stari grad 449, tel. +382 32 32 50 62/+382 great views of the bustle in the streets around. For busines ing Germans in 1944. post-war rebuilding of the city. From 1951 to 1954 a largescale campaign to plant trees in the suburbs was carried out, types there’s wifi and a conference room, for bons vivant 32 32 50 63, [email protected]. A lovely hotel with mainly cypress and Aleppo pines planted which could in a narrow alley veering off from the main square. Marija there’s a wellness centre and a cigar lounge. Q 23 rooms thrive in Podgorica’s poor, stony soil and long dry summers. has smiling staff, decent rooms with lots of oak, (singles en suite €95, 18 doubles €125, 5 apartments €165-198). bathrooms with showers, and shuttered windows overlookPHAFLEKDW hhhh Gorica Forest Park (Park šuma Gorica) E/F-1. Not a park ing alleys and squares. Rooms can vary considerably for the L-1, Stari grad 385, tel./fax +382 32 32 but a good place to stroll and sniff up the pine-scented air neverthe- same price. In summer, the noise from the streetsVilla can Duomo be less, this forested hill overlooks the city centre and can be reached quite unbearable. Q 17 rooms (singles €65, doubles €90,31 11, tel. +382 32 32 30 30, [email protected], by the road leading past the City Stadium. The Partizan monument triples €103, quad €130). PABKW hhh www.villaduomo.com. A beautiful three-storey Renaisis reached after a few minutes, and from there various paths loop sance home transformed into a boutique hotel. The room Meridian L-1, Stari grad 436, tel. +382 32 32 34 48, and apartments inside retain their old stone walls, but no up the hillside, offering views over town between the trees. fax +382 32 32 35 81, [email protected], www.meridihave gleaming marble floors and modern bathrooms. Ivana Milutinovića Park D-3, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog. 13 apartments (singles €110, doubles €170, quads €240). andmc.me. Good-value apartment rentals. Rooms in the old Split in two parts south of the city centre along Bulevar Svetog town vary from €10-20 per night, cheaper digs arePALBW available hhhh Petra Cetinjskog, the small 1.26ha Milutinovića park was de- further afield. Spend €45-50 and you’ll get your own studio signed in 1953. It’s always busy with pedestrians and traffic apartment sleeping up to 3 people. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, flowing between the centre and the Stara Varoš and station Sat 09:00 - 14:00; 15:00-21:00. Closed Sun. districts, and is home to the statue of King Nikola. Meals are quite cheap in Kotor, with upmarket restauran charging €5-10 for a main dish. Karađorđev Park E-3. The greenest corner of the city cenAstoria L-1, Stari Grad 322, tel. +382 32 30 27 tre grid, beside the Crna Gora hotel, was laid out in 1927 and Tourist Information Office L-1, Stari grad 20/+382 69 77 55 22, [email protected], reconstructed after wartime damage in 1954. The most varied of the city’s parks, it has a wide variety of flowering plants, pine 328, tel. +382 32 32 59 50/+382 32 32 28 86, www.astoriamontenegro.com. Kotor’s most upmarket trees and conifers. [email protected], www.tokotor.com. Kotor’s tour- restaurant, inside the Astoria hotel, may be the most remar able in Montenegro. The fairy tale interior has a large tr ist information office is in a kiosk just outside the main Njegošev Park D-2. One of the first landscaped green areas in rent the centre holding up the ceiling and mysterious Gree city gate. Staff hand out free maps. Visitors can in Podgorica, this park between the city centre and the river was an audio guide (€1/hr) that has a commentariedtexts walklining the walls. The food is sublime - Montenegrin a opened in 1925. The Second World War thoroughly ploughed it international cuisine, seafood, excellent desserts, you nam through the old town. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. The Ottoman-era Clock Tower JvM up, but it was reinstated in original form in 1951. it. Q Open 07:00 - 01:00. PAW

Accommodation

Ottoman Podgorica

Parks

Restaurants & Cafés

Tourist information

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

28

kotor

wHat to see

29

Clock Tower (Sahat Kula) D-3, Trg Vojvode Bećira

Museums & Galleries

Kotor, known as Cattaro in medieval times, has the most dramatic setting of any town along the MediterOsmanagića. Every Ottoman-ruled town had a clock tower to Modern Art Gallery (Centar Savremene Umjetnosindicate the Muslim prayer times, and Podgorica’s 18th century ranean Sea. In the far corner of the impressive Kotor ti) B-3, Ljubljanska, tel. +382 20 24 35 13. Podgorica’s tower is one of the few remaining structures from the time. The bay, surrounded by 1,400 metre high mountains, its most elegant building, the pretty white Petrović Palace tall stone that tower hasn’t actually got a clock, but that doesn’t medieval stone churches and houses huddle together formerly belonged to King Nikola, is home to the modern seem toart bother anyone. The tower isn’t open for visitors. within a small triangle of mighty fortress walls, squeezed between the waterfront and the mountains raising sheer collection of the city museum. The museum features a lot of African and Asian paintings and sculptures, butOld alsotown has (Stara varoš) D-3, . A warren of quiet residential up behind. It’s been a UNESCO World Heritage site since rooms with Montenegrin 20th century art with works streets by Risto between the Morača river and Kralja Nikole is all that 1979, and you’d be mad not to visit. With a population of Stijović, Milo Milunović, Filo Filipović and others. If remains they’reofnot Podgorica’s old town. Wandering around here, you’ll 14,000 it is situated just 80km from Podgorica, 10km on display, ask to be shown the collection of gifts made come across to the small Osmanagići and Glavatovići mosques, from Tivat airport and 90km from Dubrovnik, and is wellTito by presidents and dictators including Gaddafi and some Sadam old residential houses and the Clock Tower. connected by bus. Hussein. Find the palace up the stairs in the lush park behind View of the Bay of Kotor Sco the US embassy. Q Open 07:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sat Ribnica Bridge (Most na Ribnici) D-2, Stara Varoš. A 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. cute 15th century Ottoman arched bridge spans the Ribnica river near the confluence with the Morača. Best reached via Kotor has many small hotels and apartments bothRendez in and Vous L-1, Trg od Mlijeka, Stari grad, tel./fax Natural History Museum (Prirodnjački Muzej) +382 32 32 39 31, tel. +382 69 04 33 77, rendezvouskothe steps going down near the Blaža Jovanovića bridge. outside the old town. Beware that in summer the noise D-3, Trg Vojvode Bećir Bega Osmanagića 16, tel. +382 from the bars in much of the old town are such that you [email protected], www.rendezvouskotor.com. Located Ribnica Fortress (Tvrđava na Ribnici) D-3, Stara 20 63 31 84/+382 20 62 35 44, [email protected], won’t get much sleep until daybreak - and that’s when on one the of the smaller squares in the old town, this hotel h sweepers come and clang the bins about. Choose small, your basic rooms and a large restaurant that’s popular wi www.pmcg.co.me. A biologer’s dream, this museum housevaroš. s Erected at the confluence of the Ribnica and Morača the locals. Ask for a top-floor room for good views of tow all knowledge there is about algae, plants and animals rivers by in the Turks when they invaded in 1474, Ribnica For- room very carefully. Montenegro. The small exhibition room often hosts tresstemwas once a massive castle. Nowadays, all that remains Q 14rooms(2singles€25,6doubles€50,2triples€60, Cattaro L-1, Stari grad 433, tel. +382 32 31 10 00, fax are some rubbish-strewn fields and the crumbling tower walls apartments €60). PAKW hh porary shows on things like pelicans. Q Open 09:00-17:00. +382 32 31 10 80, [email protected], www.catClosed Sat, Sun. on the cliff overlooking the two rivers. Splendido Glavati bb, Prčanj, tel. +382 32 30 17 00, tarohotel.com. One of Kotor’s best hotels, built inside the Podgorica Museum (Muzeji i Galerije Podgorice) Turkish Bathhouse (Tursko Kupatilo) E-3, Obala fax +382 32 33 62 22, [email protected], www. reconstructed Napoleontic theatre and a wing of the duke’s palace, with all rooms overlooking the main square. The décor is E-3, Marka Miljanova 4, tel. +382 20 24 25 43. The Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25. The old splendido-hotel.com. Just out of town, a short taxi ride frames. city’s main museum has a good collection of archaeological, Turkish bath complex, Podgorica’s largest remaining historical classy, with flatscreen TVs embedded in dark woodenalong the very scary road to the Kamenari ferry crossing, t religious icons, books and other historical objects. Especially building, can be found hidden in the Ribnica river gorge east ofApartments are large and sleep three people. The hotel splendidly also located 18th century building has great views ov the elegant Copper age, Illirian and Roman items from the centre. nearby It was unfortunately decapitated by city planners has a casino upstairs. Q 18 rooms (singles €69, doubles €99,Kotor and the bay, a pool and private beach. It’s named afte ancient Doclea are worth looking up. A special section who apparently is insisted on building a bridge following the grid apartment €180). POARFBKW hhhh the first ship to sail around the world from Kotor (which actu dedicated to Božidar Vučković, a very productive structure 16th cen- of the city, even if it meant ruining this building. came back). The rooms in the main building are small, b tury printer. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Roofless, it is now stuck underneath the Novi Most bridge, Forza Lux L-1, Stari grad, Trg od Drva, tel. +382 32 30 those in the newer annex are fine. Open from April 2010. Closed Mon. and has been transformed into a rather wonderful cultural 40 68/+382 32 33 35 00, [email protected]. 43 A rooms (singles € 61-65, doubles €88-93, 3 apartments centre. Nothing remains of the original interior. beautiful boutique hotel housed in an stone palace€111). in the PHALBKCW old hhhh town. The rooms exude luxury with their fine materials and Vardar pastel colours, and the huge two-person apartment comes L-1, Stari grad 476, tel. +382 32 32 50 84, fax +382 32 Wars and time have left little to remind you of the Otwith fitness machines and a Jacuzzi. Breakfast is served in a32 50 74, [email protected], www.hoteltoman’s five-century domination of Podgorica andWalk the or drive through Podgorica and you can’t help but notice medieval dining room. Q 6 rooms (5 doubles €130, 1 apartvardar.com. Right on Kotor’s main square and equipped with surrounding region. The beautiful arched Vezirov how Mostgreen the city is. There are small parks and flower beds one of the most popular terraces, the Vardar i snamed after ment €180). PARFBKDCW hhhh bridge spanning the Morača was blown up by the between retreat- suburban buildings, a tradition started during the river in Macedonia and has comfortable rooms that provid Marija L-1, Stari grad 449, tel. +382 32 32 50 62/+382 great views of the bustle in the streets around. For busines ing Germans in 1944. post-war rebuilding of the city. From 1951 to 1954 a largescale campaign to plant trees in the suburbs was carried out, types there’s wifi and a conference room, for bons vivant 32 32 50 63, [email protected]. A lovely hotel with mainly cypress and Aleppo pines planted which could in a narrow alley veering off from the main square. Marija there’s a wellness centre and a cigar lounge. Q 23 rooms thrive in Podgorica’s poor, stony soil and long dry summers. has smiling staff, decent rooms with lots of oak, (singles en suite €95, 18 doubles €125, 5 apartments €165-198). bathrooms with showers, and shuttered windows overlookPHAFLEKDW hhhh Gorica Forest Park (Park šuma Gorica) E/F-1. Not a park ing alleys and squares. Rooms can vary considerably for the L-1, Stari grad 385, tel./fax +382 32 32 but a good place to stroll and sniff up the pine-scented air neverthe- same price. In summer, the noise from the streetsVilla can Duomo be less, this forested hill overlooks the city centre and can be reached quite unbearable. Q 17 rooms (singles €65, doubles €90,31 11, tel. +382 32 32 30 30, [email protected], by the road leading past the City Stadium. The Partizan monument triples €103, quad €130). PABKW hhh www.villaduomo.com. A beautiful three-storey Renaisis reached after a few minutes, and from there various paths loop sance home transformed into a boutique hotel. The room Meridian L-1, Stari grad 436, tel. +382 32 32 34 48, and apartments inside retain their old stone walls, but no up the hillside, offering views over town between the trees. fax +382 32 32 35 81, [email protected], www.meridihave gleaming marble floors and modern bathrooms. Ivana Milutinovića Park D-3, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog. 13 apartments (singles €110, doubles €170, quads €240). andmc.me. Good-value apartment rentals. Rooms in the old Split in two parts south of the city centre along Bulevar Svetog town vary from €10-20 per night, cheaper digs arePALBW available hhhh Petra Cetinjskog, the small 1.26ha Milutinovića park was de- further afield. Spend €45-50 and you’ll get your own studio signed in 1953. It’s always busy with pedestrians and traffic apartment sleeping up to 3 people. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, flowing between the centre and the Stara Varoš and station Sat 09:00 - 14:00; 15:00-21:00. Closed Sun. districts, and is home to the statue of King Nikola. Meals are quite cheap in Kotor, with upmarket restauran charging €5-10 for a main dish. Karađorđev Park E-3. The greenest corner of the city cenAstoria L-1, Stari Grad 322, tel. +382 32 30 27 tre grid, beside the Crna Gora hotel, was laid out in 1927 and Tourist Information Office L-1, Stari grad 20/+382 69 77 55 22, [email protected], reconstructed after wartime damage in 1954. The most varied of the city’s parks, it has a wide variety of flowering plants, pine 328, tel. +382 32 32 59 50/+382 32 32 28 86, www.astoriamontenegro.com. Kotor’s most upmarket trees and conifers. [email protected], www.tokotor.com. Kotor’s tour- restaurant, inside the Astoria hotel, may be the most remar able in Montenegro. The fairy tale interior has a large tr ist information office is in a kiosk just outside the main Njegošev Park D-2. One of the first landscaped green areas in rent the centre holding up the ceiling and mysterious Gree city gate. Staff hand out free maps. Visitors can in Podgorica, this park between the city centre and the river was an audio guide (€1/hr) that has a commentariedtexts walklining the walls. The food is sublime - Montenegrin a opened in 1925. The Second World War thoroughly ploughed it international cuisine, seafood, excellent desserts, you nam through the old town. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. The Ottoman-era Clock Tower JvM up, but it was reinstated in original form in 1951. it. Q Open 07:00 - 01:00. PAW

Accommodation

Ottoman Podgorica

Parks

Restaurants & Cafés

Tourist information

Podgorica In Your Pocket

30

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November 2010 - April 2011

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

kotor

kotor

31

Cesare L-1, Stari Grad 327, tel. +382 32 32 59 13,

[email protected]. With a light Roman Empire theme - think Julius’ head in the logo and Latin mottos above the bar - Cesare is currently Kotor’s most popular bar. At weekend nights the dance floor fills with well-dressed people partying to live music. Come earlier to enjoy the food - the menu lists Italian and Montenegrin dishes. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PAEBW

Maximus L-1, Stari Grad 232, Trg od oružja, tel. +382

67 21 67 67, www.discomaximus.com. Montenegro’s biggest club is inside Kotor’s city wall and has several Romanthemed dance floors, each with their own music; house, pop and local music. The main amphitheatre room is jam-packed with 2000 revellers on party nights. The club regularly hosts foreign DJs and concerts by regional stars. Q Open 22:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Sun. Admission €5-6. PAE

Sights

Kotor has a small, atmospheric old town jam-packed with lovely low-key sights and tiny alleys with scraggy cats in the bins. Kotor’s magical location comes at a price, and earthquakes have devastated the city more than once - the last violent one was in 1979. Each time Kotor has been rebuilt, and it’s not easy to say what’s original and what’s not which in itself is a compliment to the restoration crews.

Clock Tower L-1, Stari grad, Trg od oružja. Construction on

the main square’s hulking clock tower was started in 1602 and combined Baroque and Gothic architecture. But, this being the Balkans, it still was not finished when the 1667 earthquake struck, Bastion L-1, Stari grad 517, 29 Novembra, tel. +382 32 causing the tower to tilt. After the 1979 quake, history was finally set straight and it was rebuilt (and completed) in upright position. 32 21 16. Away from the more touristy parts of the old town, Bastion is a fine restaurant serving fresh fish dishes and other Karampana Fountain (Karampana Fontana) L-1, Montenegrin specialities beside the city’s northern gate. It has a pleasantly shady terrace on the quiet square in front of An elegant Baroque contraption with a forged Stari grad. St. Mary’s Church (Crkva Svete Marije) L-1, Stari grad, iron fence, this fountain was for centuries the main source of Maritime Museum (Pomorski Muzej) L-1, Stari the restaurant. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAB drinking water in the city centre. grad, Trg Grgurina, tel. +382 32 30 47 20. One glance Trg at Sv. Marije od Rijeke. A small 14th century church on the La Pasteria L-1, Stari grad, Trg Svetog Tripuna, tel. the mountains around town and you’ll see the importance foundations of of a much older church. The interior reveals some 1 seafaring history for Kotor. The rambling Grgurina century palace has frescoes and an exquisite 14th century wooden crucif +382 32 32 22 69. Right opposite the cathedral and with great views from the terrace, this Italian restaurant serves models of pot-bellied local trader’s ships, maps, period rooms St. Nicholas’ Church (Crkva Svetog Nikole) L-1, recreating a merchant’s office and a warship interior, Dutch breakfast till 14:00, and has lepinja bread sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, meat and fish dishes and pancakes on the and English nautical instruments and guidebooks Stari and halls grad, Trg Sv. Nikola. The gloomy Orthodox St. NichoThe 4,5 kilometres of ramparts and walls surrounding the menu. At night the candlelit tables form the best dining full of old weapons. There’s also a display on the 1918 las’ mutiny Church has shafts of sunlight piercing through the dev city spot and creeping up Sv. Ivana hill are Kotor’s landmark here on the Austrian navy’s warship St. Georg. Look atmosphere, for the with believers lighting up sputtering candles feature. A fortress has crowned the hill since Illyrian and in town - reservations recommended. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00. display of painted bottles, used by seamen to send desperate front of the soot-stained icon screen. Byzantine times, but the massive defence system you see PAB messages to their beloved ones back home. A Kotor secret is now was first planned in the 13th century, and was added Stari Mlini Ljuta bb, Dobrota, tel. +382 32 33 35 to by the by the Venetians and Austrians. It remained in use, Triphon’s Cathedral (Katedrala Svetog Tripuna) revealed here, as one of the rooms has a surprisingSt. view of a 55, www.starimlini.com. Seven kilometres north of theon and off, until the end of the Second World War. The walls L-1, Stari grad, Trg od Katedrala. The most impressive church lush rooftop garden. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00-23:00, Sun old town, the Old Mill (built in 1776) sits prettily beside thehigh and 16m thick in some places. 18:00 - 23:00. Admission €4, includes audioguide. in town is the 12th century St. Triphon’s Cathedral, overloo are 20m gurgling Ljuta river which springs from an impressive a pretty square and framed by the massive mountains behin Thegorge. lower town is surrounded by a partly restored wall with Risan Mosaics (Risanski Mozaik) Risan. In the far cornConsecrated er It’s well worth the trip, as the food is at least as good as the in 1166, it’s undergone enough restoration projec Venetian-era and older towers, and bastions named Gurdic, setting, with wonderful, fresh local fish and meat Korner, dishes,Valijer, Citadela (now a café), Bembo (a theatre) and of the bay, 16km north of Kotor, Risan was the location toof make an Il-even a British property buyer dizzy. The façade a towers were rebuilt in Baroque style after the 1667 earthqua lyrian settlement ( Rhizon ) well before the Romans arrived in the Riva. Three gates give access to the old town, the main Sea bread and wine. Perhaps the best dining in the bay. Q Open TheIllyrian impressive Romanesque interior has beautiful origin 12:00 - 24:00. PALB 3rd century BC (calling it Rhizinium). According to legend, Gate from 1555 (then accessing directly to the quay), the architectural Queen Teuta moved her court here briefly during the Roman inva- features and a few surviving 14th century fresc northern gate from 1540 with a bridge across the Skurda sion. Excavations here have revealed beautiful 2nd-3rd century river, and the 17th-19th century southern gate with a bridge Q Open07:00-19:00.Admission€1. BC Roman floor mosaics with the deity of dreams, Hypnos, in the across the Gurdic river. If anything, nightlife in Kotor is loud. Damn loud. After dark, centre. The site and tourist facilities have recently been renoAbove Kotor, the city walls zigzag to the ruined hilltop Sv. every quaint little alley in town reverberates to the Ivana not-sofortress, 260m above sea level. Two steep staircases vated. Q Open April-November 08:00-20:00. Admission €1. sophisticated thumping of local techno anthems. Squares (one near Sv. Marija, the other close to the cathedral) make Kamelija Shopping Centar Trg Mata Petrovića, get packed with well-dressed people drinking beer their and way up the hill, past the Lady of Salvation church (Crkva St. Luke’s Church (Crkva Svetog Luke) L-1, Stari cocktails. It’s quite something. grad. Opposite St. Nicholas’ Church, this pretty, small church Gospe od Spasa), halfway up. tel. +382 32 33 53 80, [email protected], www. was built in 1195 by Mauro Kacafrangi and his wife Bona. ‘for The fortress can be visited, though it’s best to avoid the hotkamelija.me. Just north of the Stari Grad, the elegant Casino Cattaro L-1, Stari grad 232, Trg od oružja, tel. test hours of the day. Bring plenty of water and mind your step the salvation of their souls’. They must have done something new three-storey Kamelija mall has a supermarket (open right, because it’s the only building in town that survived the +382 32 31 10 00, www.cattarohotel.com. Roulette,- the fortress is in a pretty bad shape despite renovations. 07:00-24:00), pharmacy (open 07:00-23:00, Sun 09:00Black Jack, poker and more games inside the Cattaro Hotel. 1979 earthquake undamaged. Inside there are two altars, for The fantastic views from the top over the bay and the gorge 23:00), restaurants, a bank and fashion, food, books, and Catholic and Orthodox believers, and the floor is paved with shops. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Dress up and bring ID to prove you’re over 18. Qdirectly Open behind the fortress are worth the struggle up. jewellery gravestones as people were buried here until the 1930s. 21:00 - 05:00. PA

St Triphon’s Cathedral in Kotor

JvM

Fortifications

Bars & Clubs

Podgorica In Your Pocket

Shopping

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

30

kotor

kotor

31

Cesare L-1, Stari Grad 327, tel. +382 32 32 59 13,

[email protected]. With a light Roman Empire theme - think Julius’ head in the logo and Latin mottos above the bar - Cesare is currently Kotor’s most popular bar. At weekend nights the dance floor fills with well-dressed people partying to live music. Come earlier to enjoy the food - the menu lists Italian and Montenegrin dishes. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PAEBW

Maximus L-1, Stari Grad 232, Trg od oružja, tel. +382

67 21 67 67, www.discomaximus.com. Montenegro’s biggest club is inside Kotor’s city wall and has several Romanthemed dance floors, each with their own music; house, pop and local music. The main amphitheatre room is jam-packed with 2000 revellers on party nights. The club regularly hosts foreign DJs and concerts by regional stars. Q Open 22:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Sun. Admission €5-6. PAE

Sights

Kotor has a small, atmospheric old town jam-packed with lovely low-key sights and tiny alleys with scraggy cats in the bins. Kotor’s magical location comes at a price, and earthquakes have devastated the city more than once - the last violent one was in 1979. Each time Kotor has been rebuilt, and it’s not easy to say what’s original and what’s not which in itself is a compliment to the restoration crews.

Clock Tower L-1, Stari grad, Trg od oružja. Construction on

the main square’s hulking clock tower was started in 1602 and combined Baroque and Gothic architecture. But, this being the Balkans, it still was not finished when the 1667 earthquake struck, Bastion L-1, Stari grad 517, 29 Novembra, tel. +382 32 causing the tower to tilt. After the 1979 quake, history was finally set straight and it was rebuilt (and completed) in upright position. 32 21 16. Away from the more touristy parts of the old town, Bastion is a fine restaurant serving fresh fish dishes and other Karampana Fountain (Karampana Fontana) L-1, Montenegrin specialities beside the city’s northern gate. It has a pleasantly shady terrace on the quiet square in front of An elegant Baroque contraption with a forged Stari grad. St. Mary’s Church (Crkva Svete Marije) L-1, Stari grad, iron fence, this fountain was for centuries the main source of Maritime Museum (Pomorski Muzej) L-1, Stari the restaurant. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAB drinking water in the city centre. grad, Trg Grgurina, tel. +382 32 30 47 20. One glance Trg at Sv. Marije od Rijeke. A small 14th century church on the La Pasteria L-1, Stari grad, Trg Svetog Tripuna, tel. the mountains around town and you’ll see the importance foundations of of a much older church. The interior reveals some 1 seafaring history for Kotor. The rambling Grgurina century palace has frescoes and an exquisite 14th century wooden crucif +382 32 32 22 69. Right opposite the cathedral and with great views from the terrace, this Italian restaurant serves models of pot-bellied local trader’s ships, maps, period rooms St. Nicholas’ Church (Crkva Svetog Nikole) L-1, recreating a merchant’s office and a warship interior, Dutch breakfast till 14:00, and has lepinja bread sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, meat and fish dishes and pancakes on the and English nautical instruments and guidebooks Stari and halls grad, Trg Sv. Nikola. The gloomy Orthodox St. NichoThe 4,5 kilometres of ramparts and walls surrounding the menu. At night the candlelit tables form the best dining full of old weapons. There’s also a display on the 1918 las’ mutiny Church has shafts of sunlight piercing through the dev city spot and creeping up Sv. Ivana hill are Kotor’s landmark here on the Austrian navy’s warship St. Georg. Look atmosphere, for the with believers lighting up sputtering candles feature. A fortress has crowned the hill since Illyrian and in town - reservations recommended. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00. display of painted bottles, used by seamen to send desperate front of the soot-stained icon screen. Byzantine times, but the massive defence system you see PAB messages to their beloved ones back home. A Kotor secret is now was first planned in the 13th century, and was added Stari Mlini Ljuta bb, Dobrota, tel. +382 32 33 35 to by the by the Venetians and Austrians. It remained in use, Triphon’s Cathedral (Katedrala Svetog Tripuna) revealed here, as one of the rooms has a surprisingSt. view of a 55, www.starimlini.com. Seven kilometres north of theon and off, until the end of the Second World War. The walls L-1, Stari grad, Trg od Katedrala. The most impressive church lush rooftop garden. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00-23:00, Sun old town, the Old Mill (built in 1776) sits prettily beside thehigh and 16m thick in some places. 18:00 - 23:00. Admission €4, includes audioguide. in town is the 12th century St. Triphon’s Cathedral, overloo are 20m gurgling Ljuta river which springs from an impressive a pretty square and framed by the massive mountains behin Thegorge. lower town is surrounded by a partly restored wall with Risan Mosaics (Risanski Mozaik) Risan. In the far cornConsecrated er It’s well worth the trip, as the food is at least as good as the in 1166, it’s undergone enough restoration projec Venetian-era and older towers, and bastions named Gurdic, setting, with wonderful, fresh local fish and meat Korner, dishes,Valijer, Citadela (now a café), Bembo (a theatre) and of the bay, 16km north of Kotor, Risan was the location toof make an Il-even a British property buyer dizzy. The façade a towers were rebuilt in Baroque style after the 1667 earthqua lyrian settlement ( Rhizon ) well before the Romans arrived in the Riva. Three gates give access to the old town, the main Sea bread and wine. Perhaps the best dining in the bay. Q Open TheIllyrian impressive Romanesque interior has beautiful origin 12:00 - 24:00. PALB 3rd century BC (calling it Rhizinium). According to legend, Gate from 1555 (then accessing directly to the quay), the architectural Queen Teuta moved her court here briefly during the Roman inva- features and a few surviving 14th century fresc northern gate from 1540 with a bridge across the Skurda sion. Excavations here have revealed beautiful 2nd-3rd century river, and the 17th-19th century southern gate with a bridge Q Open07:00-19:00.Admission€1. BC Roman floor mosaics with the deity of dreams, Hypnos, in the across the Gurdic river. If anything, nightlife in Kotor is loud. Damn loud. After dark, centre. The site and tourist facilities have recently been renoAbove Kotor, the city walls zigzag to the ruined hilltop Sv. every quaint little alley in town reverberates to the Ivana not-sofortress, 260m above sea level. Two steep staircases vated. Q Open April-November 08:00-20:00. Admission €1. sophisticated thumping of local techno anthems. Squares (one near Sv. Marija, the other close to the cathedral) make Kamelija Shopping Centar Trg Mata Petrovića, get packed with well-dressed people drinking beer their and way up the hill, past the Lady of Salvation church (Crkva St. Luke’s Church (Crkva Svetog Luke) L-1, Stari cocktails. It’s quite something. grad. Opposite St. Nicholas’ Church, this pretty, small church Gospe od Spasa), halfway up. tel. +382 32 33 53 80, [email protected], www. was built in 1195 by Mauro Kacafrangi and his wife Bona. ‘for The fortress can be visited, though it’s best to avoid the hotkamelija.me. Just north of the Stari Grad, the elegant Casino Cattaro L-1, Stari grad 232, Trg od oružja, tel. test hours of the day. Bring plenty of water and mind your step the salvation of their souls’. They must have done something new three-storey Kamelija mall has a supermarket (open right, because it’s the only building in town that survived the +382 32 31 10 00, www.cattarohotel.com. Roulette,- the fortress is in a pretty bad shape despite renovations. 07:00-24:00), pharmacy (open 07:00-23:00, Sun 09:00Black Jack, poker and more games inside the Cattaro Hotel. 1979 earthquake undamaged. Inside there are two altars, for The fantastic views from the top over the bay and the gorge 23:00), restaurants, a bank and fashion, food, books, and Catholic and Orthodox believers, and the floor is paved with shops. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Dress up and bring ID to prove you’re over 18. Qdirectly Open behind the fortress are worth the struggle up. jewellery gravestones as people were buried here until the 1930s. 21:00 - 05:00. PA

St Triphon’s Cathedral in Kotor

JvM

Fortifications

Bars & Clubs

Shopping

Podgorica In Your Pocket

32

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November 2010 - April 2011

Budva

Budva Where to stay

Montenegro’s tourism capital sits along a glorious bay, the compact old town beside a broad sweep of beach. backed by mountains. In the 15th century the town became Budva the has thousands of beds, creaking under the weight last outpost of the Venetian republic, and it remained of Russian so and other tourists in summer, but mainly used for 400 years, gaining its impressive fortress. In summer, by conference guests in winter. The hotels listed here are it’s swamped with tourists from across Europe, but open in all year. winter things are great for walks on a deserted beach, and food at restaurants where the owners will have plenty of time for you. Now is the time to enjoy the tiny and picture2, tel. +382 33 44 10 00, fax +382 perfect Stari Grad (Old Town), perched on a rock Avala juttingMediteranska in 44 15 26, [email protected], www. the bay. Importantly, the cafés that remain open in33 winter make hot chocolate that’s to die for. avalaresort.com. Modern clashes with traditional where this huge hotel and spa resort meets Budva’s old town. Right on the beach beside the city walls, its large and elegant rooms look out on the Adriatic Sea or the mountains. Spacious and sophisticated, yet simple and peaceful. Q 297 rooms (singles €110, doubles €160, suites €250, 67 villas €160). Budva is about 70 kilometres southwest of Podgorica, an easy 70-minute drive. The easiest drive is pastPHAUFLGKDCW the airport and Virpazar via the Sozina toll tunnel (€2.50). The Maestral Pržno, Sveti Stefan, tel. +382 33 41 01 09, scenic hairpin-lovers option is across the mountains via fax +382 33 41 01 90, [email protected], www. Cetinje, or the old high road from Virpazar to Petrovac. maestral.info. Across the bay beside the old fishing village Tivat airport is 18km northwest of town. The nearest train station is in Bar, 37km to the south. Budva is anof Pržno, the luxury Maestral hotel offers fantastic views across to Budva. The recently renovated four-star wonder important place, and there are regular buses from towns has stunning interiors as well as a brand new wing for even across the country; the bus station is in the centre of more on exclusive guests. Expect spacious suites, lush gardens, town, a kilometre north of Stari Grad (the old town) Popa Jola Zeca. a good beach out front and great views. Q 196 rooms (20 singles €79-100, 176 doubles €53-74, family rooms €288-500, 19 suites €124-3,300, Royal Sky Suite €5,000). POTHAUFLGKDCW

Upmarket

Budva Essentials

Queen of Montenegro Narodnog fronta bb, Bečići,

tel. +382 33 66 26 62, fax +382 33 66 26 33, hotel@ queenofmontenegro.com, www.queenofmontenegro. com. With a beautiful restaurant terrace and infinity pool overlooking the beach, well-designed interiors and efficient rooms and suites, the large Queen of Montenegro hotel is luxurious yet quite simple. For those who like to play there is an abundance of activities you can participate in, including gambling. Q 227 rooms (singles €70-77, 201 doubles €100110, 21 family rooms €55 per person, 5 apartments €75 per person). POTHAUFLGKDCW

Splendid (Splendid Conference & Spa Resort)

Bečići, tel. +382 33 77 37 77/+382 33 77 47 74, fax +382 33 77 37 57, [email protected], www.montenegrostars.com. The brightest star of the Montenegro Stars chain completely dominates Becici Beach. It’s the most luxurious hotel in the country and has everything you may need, including special business, wedding and spa packages. With indoor and outdoor pools, a spa (www.splendidspa-montenegro.com), a conference centre, spacious halls, tastefully decorated rooms and several bars and restaurants (including a Japanese one), there’s no doubt that the Splendid is indeed splendid. Q 322 rooms (singles €160-213, doubles €214-284, suites €350-500, Penthouse Suite €4,000, Presidential Suite €7,000). POTHAUFLKDCW

Mid-range

Blue Star Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 42 31 00/+382

Stari grad

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

33 77 37 77, fax +382 33 42 31 12, [email protected], www.montenegrostars.com. The Blue Star is one of the smaller hotels the Montenegro Stars chain, but profiled as a business hotel and located just 500 metres from Budva’s Old Town it’s well-placed for both business and leisure trips. With comfortable rooms, friendly service and a lovely restaurant, it’s a quiet option compared to the larger hotels in town. Q 24 rooms (singles €64-109, 22 doubles Tourist Organisation of Budva €98-168, 2 apartments €79-94). PHA6UGKW

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

32

Budva

Budva Where to stay

Montenegro’s tourism capital sits along a glorious bay, the compact old town beside a broad sweep of beach. backed by mountains. In the 15th century the town became Budva the has thousands of beds, creaking under the weight last outpost of the Venetian republic, and it remained of Russian so and other tourists in summer, but mainly used for 400 years, gaining its impressive fortress. In summer, by conference guests in winter. The hotels listed here are it’s swamped with tourists from across Europe, but open in all year. winter things are great for walks on a deserted beach, and food at restaurants where the owners will have plenty of time for you. Now is the time to enjoy the tiny and picture2, tel. +382 33 44 10 00, fax +382 perfect Stari Grad (Old Town), perched on a rock Avala juttingMediteranska in 44 15 26, [email protected], www. the bay. Importantly, the cafés that remain open in33 winter make hot chocolate that’s to die for. avalaresort.com. Modern clashes with traditional where this huge hotel and spa resort meets Budva’s old town. Right on the beach beside the city walls, its large and elegant rooms look out on the Adriatic Sea or the mountains. Spacious and sophisticated, yet simple and peaceful. Q 297 rooms (singles €110, doubles €160, suites €250, 67 villas €160). Budva is about 70 kilometres southwest of Podgorica, an easy 70-minute drive. The easiest drive is pastPHAUFLGKDCW the airport and Virpazar via the Sozina toll tunnel (€2.50). The Maestral Pržno, Sveti Stefan, tel. +382 33 41 01 09, scenic hairpin-lovers option is across the mountains via fax +382 33 41 01 90, [email protected], www. Cetinje, or the old high road from Virpazar to Petrovac. maestral.info. Across the bay beside the old fishing village Tivat airport is 18km northwest of town. The nearest train station is in Bar, 37km to the south. Budva is anof Pržno, the luxury Maestral hotel offers fantastic views across to Budva. The recently renovated four-star wonder important place, and there are regular buses from towns has stunning interiors as well as a brand new wing for even across the country; the bus station is in the centre of more on exclusive guests. Expect spacious suites, lush gardens, town, a kilometre north of Stari Grad (the old town) Popa Jola Zeca. a good beach out front and great views. Q 196 rooms (20 singles €79-100, 176 doubles €53-74, family rooms €288-500, 19 suites €124-3,300, Royal Sky Suite €5,000). POTHAUFLGKDCW

Upmarket

Budva Essentials

Queen of Montenegro Narodnog fronta bb, Bečići,

tel. +382 33 66 26 62, fax +382 33 66 26 33, hotel@ queenofmontenegro.com, www.queenofmontenegro. com. With a beautiful restaurant terrace and infinity pool overlooking the beach, well-designed interiors and efficient rooms and suites, the large Queen of Montenegro hotel is luxurious yet quite simple. For those who like to play there is an abundance of activities you can participate in, including gambling. Q 227 rooms (singles €70-77, 201 doubles €100110, 21 family rooms €55 per person, 5 apartments €75 per person). POTHAUFLGKDCW

Splendid (Splendid Conference & Spa Resort)

Bečići, tel. +382 33 77 37 77/+382 33 77 47 74, fax +382 33 77 37 57, [email protected], www.montenegrostars.com. The brightest star of the Montenegro Stars chain completely dominates Becici Beach. It’s the most luxurious hotel in the country and has everything you may need, including special business, wedding and spa packages. With indoor and outdoor pools, a spa (www.splendidspa-montenegro.com), a conference centre, spacious halls, tastefully decorated rooms and several bars and restaurants (including a Japanese one), there’s no doubt that the Splendid is indeed splendid. Q 322 rooms (singles €160-213, doubles €214-284, suites €350-500, Penthouse Suite €4,000, Presidential Suite €7,000). POTHAUFLKDCW

Mid-range

Blue Star Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 42 31 00/+382

Stari grad

33 77 37 77, fax +382 33 42 31 12, [email protected], www.montenegrostars.com. The Blue Star is one of the smaller hotels the Montenegro Stars chain, but profiled as a business hotel and located just 500 metres from Budva’s Old Town it’s well-placed for both business and leisure trips. With comfortable rooms, friendly service and a lovely restaurant, it’s a quiet option compared to the larger hotels in town. Q 24 rooms (singles €64-109, 22 doubles Tourist Organisation of Budva €98-168, 2 apartments €79-94). PHA6UGKW

Podgorica In Your Pocket

34

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Budva

Budva

35

Hong Kong Vuka Karadžića 1, Stari grad, tel. +382 33

45 27 25, [email protected], www.lirbd.com. Amazingly, this Chinese restaurant started operating in Budva with staff from Hong Kong back in 1991, and it still happily serves food that is as authentic as it gets in the Balkans. With a terrace beneath the vines and overlooked by the city walls, it’s a good place for hungry tourists to try the stir-fries, noodles and more. Q Open12:00- 24:00. ABS

Tri Ribara Bečićka 37, Rafailovići, tel. +382 33 47 10

50, [email protected], www.triribara.com. The owners’ families personally catch the fish served in this famed local seafood restaurant. For over 30 years the rustic “Three Fishermen”, in a basic space decorated with seafaring memorabilia, has been a much loved destination for people across the country. The family also runs the La Mirage café by the beach. A little out of the way in the fishing village of Rafailovići, at the far end of Bečići beach, but well worth the trip. Q Open June-September 12:00-24:00, October-May The bay of Budva, with Sveti Nikola island Tourist Organisat 12:00-23:00. GB of Budva Zeleni Gaj Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 69 25 95 15. Budva Fortress (Citadela) Stari grad. The massive forSet by the beach along the promenade, this restaurant offers a wide variety of Montenegrin and international dishes. tress on Try the southern tip of the Stari Grad peninsula combin some of the affordable local seafood dishes while aenjoying museum and part of the city walls. With great views ove the town, the beaches and the bay, the experience is impre the great view from the terrace. Q Open June-September sive. Among other things, the fortress museum contains a 08:00-02:00, October-May 09:00-23:00. PGBS collection of antique books. Q Admission €2. Budva and its fortress seen from the bay

Max Prestige Žrtava fašizma bb, tel. +382 33 45 83

Tourist Organisation of Budva

Tourist information

30, fax +382 33 45 83 50, [email protected], www.hotelmaxprestige.com. A great-value choice for discerning foreigners, the Max Prestige is a small, refined Tourist Organisation hotel set 700 metres from the beach in an area that’s of Budva (Turistička lively even in winter. Rooms are large, and suites come organizacija opštine with kitchenettes. There’s a pool, jacuzzi and sauna to Budva) Mediteranska 4, spare the trip to sea, and children will love the playground. tel. +382 33 40 28 14/+382 33 40 28 15, tob@tQ 19 rooms (singles €78, 11 doubles €52, 8 suitescom.me, €65). www.budva.travel. Budva’s friendly tourism PTALKDCW office can help with accommodation and travel tips. Also at Trg sunca bb (tel. +382 33 45 34 16) and Njegoševa Šajo Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 46 02 43, fax +381 28 (tel. +382 33 45 27 50), both open Mon-Sat 09:0033 46 02 46, [email protected], www.sajohotel. com. A modern hotel located along the main road, close to20:00. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

the beach. The colourful rooms, suites and apartments are supplemented by the pool, fitness centre and rooftop terrace. you need Q 26 rooms (12 doubles €96, 6 suites €53 per person, 8 to keep some space for. The patisserie where they make these desserts themselves is located close to the apartments €58 per person). PHFLGKDCW café. Q Open June-September 08:30-02:00, October-May 08:00-01:00. AGBSW

Where to eat

Europe In winter, Budva’s restaurant scene slows down, but vari- Vuka Karadžića 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 10 One of the larger restaurants in the old town, with a huge ous quality places remain open. All nightlife shuts31. down and migrates to Podgorica. terrace. The cosy interior is a good setting for sampling the Montenegrin, Russian and other cuisines, as well as a good Astoria Njegoševa 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 11 fresh sea food. The managers are particularly proud of the one parking space they have managed to obtain amidst these 10, www.astoriamontenegro.com. Desserts, desserts, desserts! Forget about starters or mains, this restaurant cramped streets. Q Open June-September 07:00-24:00, has fantastic desserts, and makes them fresh as you order. October-May 08:00-23:00. PAB There’s even genuine cheesecake here, which is otherwise Hemingway Slovenska Obala 11, tel. +382 33 45 24 impossible to find in Montenegro. For heartier fare try the 00. Right on the promenade, just metres from the seafront international cuisine and the sushi. Q Open June-September and close to the old town, this café and restaurant is a great 07:00-03:00, October-May 07:00-01:00. PABW place to take a break and enjoy the view. The atmosphere is Café Mozart Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 17 12, upbeat thanks to the smiling staff, and all sorts of food including salads, sea food, and Montenegrin specialities can be [email protected]. A beautiful small café and restaurant with friendly staff, set in the historical centre. The lovely found on the menu. Q Open June-September 08:00-01:00, interior is topped only by the extraordinary desserts that October-May 08:00-23:00. PAB Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

What to see Sveti Nikola Island The rugged island in the middle of the Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) Stari bay can be visited by boat from Budva, and is a great wa

to get away from civilisation. The small beach, the rocky h grad. Learn more about the city’s history and see the beautiful archaeological finds, dating back thousands and of years, the general tranquillity of the island make it a good sp that were made after the devastating 1979 earthquake. for contemplation. Talk to the fishermen by Stari Grad, or prepared to swim quite a distance. Q Admission €.

Get In Your Pocket before you go

The full In Your Pocket range is available to purchase online at:

www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

TIRANA

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRAGUE

WARSAW

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

TALLINN

BERLIN

August - September 2006

August - September 2006

2006 - 2007

August - September 2006

April - May 2006

Going to the

Karlštejn’s renovated jewel chapel Explore the Polish Wilanów Versailles

Tirana’s first malls

Shopping fever

Painting the city pink

Facade art

Visiting the Bohemian Let’s rock Paradise

Floating Spree river tours boat

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BELFAST

BUC HAREST April - May 2006

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

RIGA

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

COLOGNE

April - May 2006

August - September 2006

Cool sights at the EU‘s eastern Tourin border g Narva

100 museums in one night Museum night

Poland‘s top spa town: Out of town Nałęczów

June - July 2006

IYP gets a new

The inside scoop on the new looklook inside

the

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

HAMBURG

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

KRAKÓW

June - July 2006

August - September 2006

Win or lose, this is where Football to party events Wine and dine on the Rhine River tours

We‘ve never looked better: Pocket A In NYour ew Look gets a makeover

Blogg g best Our guide toin the politically incorrect Buchar est comment online

The Greatand Cycling, skydiving country pursuits Outdoors Seafood, whiskey and St. George’s Market Gastro Tourism

Everything you need to know about IIHF Fever World Hockey Championship in Riga

Take a day trip to the seaside townsLatvia of Explore Jūrmala and Liepāja

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Down in the docks

Harbour tours

Win or lose, this is where to party Football events

Explore the Pearl of the Renaissance Tarnów Getting active in Kraków

Leisure

November 2010 - April 2011

34

Budva

Budva

35

Hong Kong Vuka Karadžića 1, Stari grad, tel. +382 33

45 27 25, [email protected], www.lirbd.com. Amazingly, this Chinese restaurant started operating in Budva with staff from Hong Kong back in 1991, and it still happily serves food that is as authentic as it gets in the Balkans. With a terrace beneath the vines and overlooked by the city walls, it’s a good place for hungry tourists to try the stir-fries, noodles and more. Q Open12:00- 24:00. ABS

Tri Ribara Bečićka 37, Rafailovići, tel. +382 33 47 10

50, [email protected], www.triribara.com. The owners’ families personally catch the fish served in this famed local seafood restaurant. For over 30 years the rustic “Three Fishermen”, in a basic space decorated with seafaring memorabilia, has been a much loved destination for people across the country. The family also runs the La Mirage café by the beach. A little out of the way in the fishing village of Rafailovići, at the far end of Bečići beach, but well worth the trip. Q Open June-September 12:00-24:00, October-May The bay of Budva, with Sveti Nikola island Tourist Organisat 12:00-23:00. GB of Budva Zeleni Gaj Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 69 25 95 15. Budva Fortress (Citadela) Stari grad. The massive forSet by the beach along the promenade, this restaurant offers a wide variety of Montenegrin and international dishes. tress on Try the southern tip of the Stari Grad peninsula combin some of the affordable local seafood dishes while aenjoying museum and part of the city walls. With great views ove the town, the beaches and the bay, the experience is impre the great view from the terrace. Q Open June-September sive. Among other things, the fortress museum contains a 08:00-02:00, October-May 09:00-23:00. PGBS collection of antique books. Q Admission €2. Budva and its fortress seen from the bay

What to see Sveti Nikola Island The rugged island in the middle of the Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) Stari bay can be visited by boat from Budva, and is a great wa

Tourist Organisation of Budva

Max Prestige Žrtava fašizma bb, tel. +382 33 45 83

to get away from civilisation. The small beach, the rocky h grad. Learn more about the city’s history and see the beautiful archaeological finds, dating back thousands and of years, the general tranquillity of the island make it a good sp that were made after the devastating 1979 earthquake. for contemplation. Talk to the fishermen by Stari Grad, or prepared to swim quite a distance. Q Admission €.

Tourist information

30, fax +382 33 45 83 50, [email protected], www.hotelmaxprestige.com. A great-value choice for discerning foreigners, the Max Prestige is a small, refined Tourist Organisation hotel set 700 metres from the beach in an area that’s of Budva (Turistička lively even in winter. Rooms are large, and suites come organizacija opštine with kitchenettes. There’s a pool, jacuzzi and sauna to Budva) Mediteranska 4, spare the trip to sea, and children will love the playground. tel. +382 33 40 28 14/+382 33 40 28 15, tob@tQ 19 rooms (singles €78, 11 doubles €52, 8 suitescom.me, €65). www.budva.travel. Budva’s friendly tourism PTALKDCW office can help with accommodation and travel tips. Also at Trg sunca bb (tel. +382 33 45 34 16) and Njegoševa Šajo Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 46 02 43, fax +381 28 (tel. +382 33 45 27 50), both open Mon-Sat 09:0033 46 02 46, [email protected], www.sajohotel. com. A modern hotel located along the main road, close to20:00. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Get In Your Pocket before you go

The full In Your Pocket range is available to purchase online at:

the beach. The colourful rooms, suites and apartments are supplemented by the pool, fitness centre and rooftop terrace. you need Q 26 rooms (12 doubles €96, 6 suites €53 per person, 8 to keep some space for. The patisserie where they make these desserts themselves is located close to the apartments €58 per person). PHFLGKDCW café. Q Open June-September 08:30-02:00, October-May 08:00-01:00. AGBSW

www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

TIRANA

Where to eat

Europe In winter, Budva’s restaurant scene slows down, but vari- Vuka Karadžića 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 10 One of the larger restaurants in the old town, with a huge ous quality places remain open. All nightlife shuts31. down and migrates to Podgorica. terrace. The cosy interior is a good setting for sampling the Montenegrin, Russian and other cuisines, as well as a good Astoria Njegoševa 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 11 fresh sea food. The managers are particularly proud of the one parking space they have managed to obtain amidst these 10, www.astoriamontenegro.com. Desserts, desserts, desserts! Forget about starters or mains, this restaurant cramped streets. Q Open June-September 07:00-24:00, has fantastic desserts, and makes them fresh as you order. October-May 08:00-23:00. PAB There’s even genuine cheesecake here, which is otherwise Hemingway Slovenska Obala 11, tel. +382 33 45 24 impossible to find in Montenegro. For heartier fare try the 00. Right on the promenade, just metres from the seafront international cuisine and the sushi. Q Open June-September and close to the old town, this café and restaurant is a great 07:00-03:00, October-May 07:00-01:00. PABW place to take a break and enjoy the view. The atmosphere is Café Mozart Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 17 12, upbeat thanks to the smiling staff, and all sorts of food including salads, sea food, and Montenegrin specialities can be [email protected]. A beautiful small café and restaurant with friendly staff, set in the historical centre. The lovely found on the menu. Q Open June-September 08:00-01:00, interior is topped only by the extraordinary desserts that October-May 08:00-23:00. PAB Podgorica In Your Pocket

36

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Buses to Albania & Croatia

Public transport

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

TALLINN

BERLIN

August - September 2006

August - September 2006

August - September 2006

April - May 2006

Going to the

Karlštejn’s renovated jewel chapel Explore the Polish Wilanów Versailles

Tirana’s first malls

Shopping fever

Painting the city pink

Facade art

Visiting the Bohemian Let’s rock Paradise

Floating Spree river tours boat

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BELFAST

BUC HAREST April - May 2006

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

RIGA

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

IYP gets a new

The inside scoop on the new looklook inside

the

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

COLOGNE

April - May 2006

August - September 2006

Cool sights at the EU‘s eastern Tourin border g Narva

100 museums in one night Museum night

Poland‘s top spa town: Out of town Nałęczów

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

HAMBURG

June - July 2006

KRAKÓW

June - July 2006

August - September 2006

Win or lose, this is where Football to party events Wine and dine on the Rhine River tours

We‘ve never looked better: Pocket A In NYour ew Look gets a makeover

Blogg g best Our guide toin the politically incorrect Buchar est comment online

The Greatand Cycling, skydiving country pursuits Outdoors Seafood, whiskey and St. George’s Market Gastro Tourism

Down in the docks

Everything you need to know about IIHF Fever World Hockey Championship in Riga

Getting active in Kraków

Leisure

November 2010 - April 2011

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

B lk ns in Y u p

Explore the Pearl of the Renaissance Tarnów

Harbour tours

Win or lose, this is where to party Football events

Take a day trip to the seaside townsLatvia of Explore Jūrmala and Liepāja

getting around Podgorica and Montenegro in general remain expensive destinations to fly to. If you’re counting pennies, do what smart people do and fly into Dubrovnik just over the border in Croatia. Buses filter in from everywhere, Taking and thea bus to Serbia or Bosnia is easy, but travelling or Albania is slightly more complicated. To train journey from Belgrade through the mountainsto is Croatia a get from Podgorica to Dubrovnik at the southernmost delightful introduction to the tip of Croatia there’s a direct bus departing at 06:00 on country. Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, arriving at 10:45. The return service leaves Dubrovnik at 15:00. Alternatively, take any bus to Kotor or Herceg Novi and change for Ulcinj-Budva-Dubrovnik bus, which departs from The centre of Podgorica is relatively small, making the walking a good option for most journeys with the occasionalBudva afford-at around 07:15 on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday and at 13:30 daily. Buses can drop you able taxi ride for longer trips. Brave visitors could also try off at Dubrovnik airport along the way. Buses from running the gauntlet of the city’s public transport system, Dubrovnik to Montenegro depart at 10:30, 15:00, a fleet of dilapidated albeit good value buses. Bus N°6 15:30 daily plus 20:30 on Monday, Wednesday and runs from the bus and train stations to Hotel Crna Gora, passing Dubrovnik airport 20-30 minutes the main bus hub in the city centre. Buses N°4, 5, 8Saturday, and 9 run from there to the city hospital, while buses N°7later. and 4The Dubrovnik timetable can be found at www. libertasdubrovnik.com/voznired.pdf. A ticket costs run west to the Novi Grad business area. Buses N°1, 7, 8 €10 plus €1 for bags. Before heading north, be sure to and 9 run to the market. Buses depart from their terminus read every 30 minutes or so, starting at the top and bottom ofand download the free Dubrovnik In Your Pocket city guide, and other Croatian guides, at www.croatia. the hour. Buy a ticket on board for €0.30. inyourpocket.com. Travellers to Albania have it less easy. There are no direct buses or trains between Podgorica and the AlTrain station F-4, Trg Golootočkih žrtava 7, tel. +382 banian city of Shkodra, 60 potholed kilometres to the 20 44 12 11/+382 20 44 12 10, [email protected]. A taxi can drop you off at the border for €15-20, and earlier on the day individuals on the other side will me, www.zcg-prevoz.me. Q Open 24hrs. Ticket office open be able to drive you to Shkodra where there are ample from 06:00-22:00. onward connections. Alternatively and cheaper, take a bus to Ulcinj and hop on the bus to Shkodra from there, departing from the messy main market square Bus station F-4, Trg golootočkih žrtava, tel. +382 at 06:30 and 13:00 and taking three hours (bookings 20 62 04 30/+382 20 62 12 87, intoursad@t-com. tel. +382 69 330482, +382 30 41 11 05). You’ll find travel information about Shkodra and Tirana at www. me, www.intours.me. Q Open 24hrs. Ticket office open albania.inyourpocket.com. 05:00-24:00.

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRAGUE

WARSAW

2006 - 2007

getting around

37

ket

Covering 38 cities in ten Balkan countries, In Your Pocket offers unparalleled travel information and foreign travellers. Whether you’re planning a busines trip, or if you’re looking to advertise to travellers with money to spend, In You is the city guide series for you. www.inyourpocket.com

Trains

Long-distance buses

Car rental

Hotels Restaurants Shops Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

LJUBLJANA

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRIZREN

October - November 2010

SARAJEVO Autumn 2009

2010 - 2011

Contact A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20

23 51 41/+382 67 45 04 50, www.contact-rentacar. Car rental is affordable in Montenegro. Count on paying from €40-45 per day for a small car. com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Delta Car D-3, Gojka Radonjića 31, tel. +382 67 64 08 00/+382 67 25 98 00 (Podgorica and Tivat airports), [email protected], www.rentacar-delta.com. Evropa F-4, Orahovačka 16 (Evropa hotel), tel. +382 20 From Podgorica To Podgorica 62 34 44/+382 20 62 11 84, www.hotelevropa.co.me. Close to the bus and train stations. Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. BAR 05:36 06:46 05:04 06:14 BAR 06:59 07:53 06:00 06:53 BAR 07:48 08:58 07:26 08:36 BAR Podgorica’s taxi companies are in general refreshingly 09:43 10:53 11:40 12:50 reliable at switching on their meters. There’s no flagfall BAR 13:15 14:25 12:20 13:12 charge, and all companies charge about €0.40-0.50/km BAR 15:10 16:20 14:40 15:50 with a waiting rate of €0.10/minute. Ordering a taxi by BAR 16:40 17:50 16:50 18:00 telephone or SMS costs nothing extra, and all companies BAR 19:03 20:10 18:25 19:35 should have someone available who can speak English. A taxi to the airport should cost €5. Ordered in advance, a BAR 20:44 21:54 18:55 19:55 ride to Cetinje is €13, Budva €25, Kotor €35, Dubrovnik BAR 21:59 22:57 21:05 21:58 (HR) €90, Shkodra (AL) €35, Belgrade (RS) €200. 07:00 15:57 BELGRADE 10:10 18:52 13:20 21:43 BELGRADE 13:10 21:55 City Tel. +382 197 11, www.citytaxi.com. De Lux Tel. +382 197 06/+382 69 01 97 06 (sms), 22:10 06:26 BELGRADE 22:10 06:49 www.deluxtaxi.com. NIŠ 07:05 19:13 06:45 18:52 Elite Tel. +382 197 08. 20:00 06:53 NOVI SAD 21:08 07:41 President Tel. +382 197 22. 20:00 09:01 SUBOTICA 18:36 07:41 Red Line Tel. +382 197 14/+382 68 01 97 14

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Explore Prizren Everything you need to know for visiting Kosovo’s cultural capital

A church with 3 names Prizren’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site

Daytrips around town Gjakova, Sharri National Park, skiing in Brezovica and more

Olympic City

Train schedule

The host of the ‘84 Winter Games has reopened for business

MESS Festival

Sarajevo’s 49th International Theatre Festival

Ljubljana’s newest restaurant Nebotičnik opens atop the ‘Skyscraper’

“In Your Pocket: A ch eeky, w ellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Slovenia has of quietly become one Month Design of the world’s design capitals

N°14 - € 2.90 N°5 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com

We Slovenian take a look at Wine the country’s Guide three unique wine regions

www.inyourpocket.com

N°1 - €2 prizren.inyourpocket.com

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Enjoy your

of Sarajevo In Your Pocket

N°1 www.inyourpocket.com

Taxis

Schedule correct at time of publishing. Check all details (sms), [email protected], www.redtaxi.me. Royal Tel. +382 197 02. before departure as times may change.

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Albania Tirana, Shkodra, Korça Bosnia & Herzegovina Sarajevo, Banja Luka Croatia Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Karlovac, Opatija, Osijek, Rijeka, Split, Zadar Greece Athen saloniki Kosovo Pristina, Prizren Macedonia Skopje Montenegro Podgorica Romania Bucharest, Braşov Serbia Belgrade, Nis, Novi Sad Slovenia Ljubljana, Bovec, Brežice, Bled, Celje, Koper, Kranj, Kranjska Gora, Piran, Planica, Postojna, Portorož, www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

36

getting around Buses to Albania & Croatia

Podgorica and Montenegro in general remain expensive destinations to fly to. If you’re counting pennies, do what smart people do and fly into Dubrovnik just over the border in Croatia. Buses filter in from everywhere, Taking and thea bus to Serbia or Bosnia is easy, but travelling or Albania is slightly more complicated. To train journey from Belgrade through the mountainsto is Croatia a get from Podgorica to Dubrovnik at the southernmost delightful introduction to the tip of Croatia there’s a direct bus departing at 06:00 on country. Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, arriving at 10:45. The return service leaves Dubrovnik at 15:00. Alternatively, take any bus to Kotor or Herceg Novi and change for Ulcinj-Budva-Dubrovnik bus, which departs from The centre of Podgorica is relatively small, making the walking a good option for most journeys with the occasionalBudva afford-at around 07:15 on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday and at 13:30 daily. Buses can drop you able taxi ride for longer trips. Brave visitors could also try off at Dubrovnik airport along the way. Buses from running the gauntlet of the city’s public transport system, Dubrovnik to Montenegro depart at 10:30, 15:00, a fleet of dilapidated albeit good value buses. Bus N°6 15:30 daily plus 20:30 on Monday, Wednesday and runs from the bus and train stations to Hotel Crna Gora, passing Dubrovnik airport 20-30 minutes the main bus hub in the city centre. Buses N°4, 5, 8Saturday, and 9 run from there to the city hospital, while buses N°7later. and 4The Dubrovnik timetable can be found at www. libertasdubrovnik.com/voznired.pdf. A ticket costs run west to the Novi Grad business area. Buses N°1, 7, 8 €10 plus €1 for bags. Before heading north, be sure to and 9 run to the market. Buses depart from their terminus read every 30 minutes or so, starting at the top and bottom ofand download the free Dubrovnik In Your Pocket city guide, and other Croatian guides, at www.croatia. the hour. Buy a ticket on board for €0.30. inyourpocket.com. Travellers to Albania have it less easy. There are no direct buses or trains between Podgorica and the AlTrain station F-4, Trg Golootočkih žrtava 7, tel. +382 banian city of Shkodra, 60 potholed kilometres to the 20 44 12 11/+382 20 44 12 10, [email protected]. A taxi can drop you off at the border for €15-20, and earlier on the day individuals on the other side will me, www.zcg-prevoz.me. Q Open 24hrs. Ticket office open be able to drive you to Shkodra where there are ample from 06:00-22:00. onward connections. Alternatively and cheaper, take a bus to Ulcinj and hop on the bus to Shkodra from there, departing from the messy main market square Bus station F-4, Trg golootočkih žrtava, tel. +382 at 06:30 and 13:00 and taking three hours (bookings 20 62 04 30/+382 20 62 12 87, intoursad@t-com. tel. +382 69 330482, +382 30 41 11 05). You’ll find travel information about Shkodra and Tirana at www. me, www.intours.me. Q Open 24hrs. Ticket office open albania.inyourpocket.com. 05:00-24:00.

Public transport

B lk ns in Y u p

getting around

37

ket

Covering 38 cities in ten Balkan countries, In Your Pocket offers unparalleled travel information and foreign travellers. Whether you’re planning a busines trip, or if you’re looking to advertise to travellers with money to spend, In You is the city guide series for you. www.inyourpocket.com

Trains

Long-distance buses

Car rental

Hotels Restaurants Shops Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

LJUBLJANA October - November 2010

Autumn 2009

2010 - 2011

Contact A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20

23 51 41/+382 67 45 04 50, www.contact-rentacar. Car rental is affordable in Montenegro. Count on paying from €40-45 per day for a small car. com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Delta Car D-3, Gojka Radonjića 31, tel. +382 67 64 08 00/+382 67 25 98 00 (Podgorica and Tivat airports), [email protected], www.rentacar-delta.com. Evropa F-4, Orahovačka 16 (Evropa hotel), tel. +382 20 From Podgorica To Podgorica 62 34 44/+382 20 62 11 84, www.hotelevropa.co.me. Close to the bus and train stations. Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. BAR 05:36 06:46 05:04 06:14 BAR 06:59 07:53 06:00 06:53 BAR 07:48 08:58 07:26 08:36 BAR Podgorica’s taxi companies are in general refreshingly 09:43 10:53 11:40 12:50 reliable at switching on their meters. There’s no flagfall BAR 13:15 14:25 12:20 13:12 charge, and all companies charge about €0.40-0.50/km BAR 15:10 16:20 14:40 15:50 with a waiting rate of €0.10/minute. Ordering a taxi by BAR 16:40 17:50 16:50 18:00 telephone or SMS costs nothing extra, and all companies BAR 19:03 20:10 18:25 19:35 should have someone available who can speak English. A taxi to the airport should cost €5. Ordered in advance, a BAR 20:44 21:54 18:55 19:55 ride to Cetinje is €13, Budva €25, Kotor €35, Dubrovnik BAR 21:59 22:57 21:05 21:58 (HR) €90, Shkodra (AL) €35, Belgrade (RS) €200. 07:00 15:57 BELGRADE 10:10 18:52 13:20 21:43 BELGRADE 13:10 21:55 City Tel. +382 197 11, www.citytaxi.com. De Lux Tel. +382 197 06/+382 69 01 97 06 (sms), 22:10 06:26 BELGRADE 22:10 06:49 www.deluxtaxi.com. NIŠ 07:05 19:13 06:45 18:52 Elite Tel. +382 197 08. 20:00 06:53 NOVI SAD 21:08 07:41 President Tel. +382 197 22. 20:00 09:01 SUBOTICA 18:36 07:41 Red Line Tel. +382 197 14/+382 68 01 97 14

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

SARAJEVO

PRIZREN Explore Prizren Everything you need to know for visiting Kosovo’s cultural capital

A church with 3 names Prizren’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site

Daytrips around town Gjakova, Sharri National Park, skiing in Brezovica and more

Olympic City

Train schedule

The host of the ‘84 Winter Games has reopened for business

MESS Festival

Sarajevo’s 49th International Theatre Festival

Ljubljana’s newest restaurant Nebotičnik opens atop the ‘Skyscraper’

“In Your Pocket: A ch eeky, w ellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Slovenia has of quietly become one Month Design of the world’s design capitals

N°14 - € 2.90 N°5 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com

We Slovenian take a look at Wine the country’s Guide three unique wine regions COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Enjoy your

N°1 - €2 prizren.inyourpocket.com

www.inyourpocket.com

of Sarajevo In Your Pocket

N°1 www.inyourpocket.com

Taxis

Schedule correct at time of publishing. Check all details (sms), [email protected], www.redtaxi.me. Royal Tel. +382 197 02. before departure as times may change.

Podgorica In Your Pocket

38

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Albania Tirana, Shkodra, Korça Bosnia & Herzegovina Sarajevo, Banja Luka Croatia Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Karlovac, Opatija, Osijek, Rijeka, Split, Zadar Greece Athen saloniki Kosovo Pristina, Prizren Macedonia Skopje Montenegro Podgorica Romania Bucharest, Braşov Serbia Belgrade, Nis, Novi Sad Slovenia Ljubljana, Bovec, Brežice, Bled, Celje, Koper, Kranj, Kranjska Gora, Piran, Planica, Postojna, Portorož, November 2010 - April 2011

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

getting around

getting around Bus schedule

Bus schedule continued

Flight schedule

Days 1234567 1–––567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Days 1234567

From Podgorica Dep. Arr. 06:30 07:30 09:30 10:30 19:00 20:00 08:00 08:45 09:15 10:00 17:30 18:15 14:50 16:05 11:35 13:45

Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1–3–5 –– 1234567

15:50 15:15 15:50 10:00 09:40 09:10 10:20 17:50 19:00 09:40 10:00

16:50 16:30 16:50 12:00 15:00 14:30 13:00 18:35 19:45 10:50 11:10

––––5–7 1 – 3 4– – – ––––5–7 ––3–5–7 1–––––– –2–4–6– –2–4–6– 1234 5 –7 –––––6– –2––5–7 –––4 –––

17:40 18:00 08:05 15:00 08:05 16:00 10:30 11:00 12:30

18:25 18:45 09:35 16:30 09:35 17:10 12:30 13:00 15:15

1234567 1234567 1–3––6– 12–45–7 1–3––6– 1–3–5 –– ––3––67 1–––5–– –––4 ––7

1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 –2–4–6– 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

City Departure Arrival ARANĐELOVAC 21:35 07:30 BANJA LUKA 20:30 04:00 17:30 BELGRADE 07:30 BELGRADE 08:30 18:30 BELGRADE 09:45 19:45 BELGRADE 11:00 21:00 BELGRADE 19:00 05:00 BELGRADE 20:00 06:00 BELGRADE 20:45 06:45 BELGRADE 22:30 08:30 BELGRADE 23:00 09:00 05:55 BIJELJINA 20:25 BUDVA* ČAČAK-UŽICE- 07:30 14:30 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 19:00 02:00 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 20:00 03:00 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 20:45 03:45 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 21:35 04:35 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 22:30 05:30 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 00:40 07:40 ZLATIBOR DOBOJ 21:20 04:30 DUBROVNIK 06:00 10:30 KOTOR* KRAGUJEVAC 08:30 17:50 KRAGUJEVAC 09:45 19:05 KRAGUJEVAC 11:00 20:20 KRAGUJEVAC 21:35 06:55 KRAGUJEVAC 22:27 07:45 KRAGUJEVAC 23:00 08:20 16:00 KRALJEVO 08:30 17:15 KRALJEVO 09:45 17:30 KRALJEVO 10:00 18:30 KRALJEVO 11:00 00:00 KRALJEVO 16:30 03:45 KRALJEVO 20:15 06:00 KRALJEVO 22:27 06:30 KRALJEVO 23:00 19:00 KRUŠEVAC 10:00 01:30 KRUŠEVAC 16:30 05:30 LESKOVAC 16:30 MOSTAR 20:30 00:00 NEVESINJE 08:30 12:30 NEVESINJE 10:50 14:50 NEVESINJE 16:45 20:45 NIKŠIĆ* NIŠ 10:00 19:30 NIŠ 16:30 02:00 NIŠ 20:15 05:45 NOVI PAZAR 08:30 15:30 NOVI PAZAR 09:45 16:45 NOVI PAZAR 10:00 17:00 NOVI PAZAR 11:00 18:00 NOVI PAZAR 16:30 23:30 NOVI PAZAR 20:15 03:15 NOVI PAZAR 22:27 05:30 NOVI PAZAR 23:00 06:00 08:45 NOVI SAD 20:45 09:30 NOVI SAD 22:30 10:00 NOVI SAD 23:00 13:30 PEĆ/PEJA 07:45 02:45 PEĆ/PEJA 21:00 03:15 PEĆ/PEJA 21:30 03:45 PEĆ/PEJA 22:00 08:15 PRIJEDOR 21:20

Podgorica In Your Pocket

City Departure Arrival PRISTINA/ 21:00 05:00 PRISHTINA PRIZREN 07:45 1234567 15:45 PRIZREN 21:30 1234567 05:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SARAJEVO 07:40 13:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SARAJEVO 09:30 15:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SARAJEVO 13:35 19:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SARAJEVO 23:40 05:40 06:00 SKOPJE** 20:00 SPLIT 15:00 01:00 – – – –5 – – 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SUBOTICA 20:45 09:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SUBOTICA 22:30 11:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 TREBINJE 13:20 10:50 1234567 19:15 TREBINJE 16:45 1234567 23:00 TREBINJE 20:30 ULCINJ 1234567 07:34 09:30 ULCINJ 1234567 09:50 11:50 ULCINJ 1234567 12:49 14:50 ULCINJ 1234567 15:05 17:05 ULCINJ 1234567 15:15 17:15 ULCINJ 1234567 16:05 18:05 ULCINJ 1234567 19:50 21:50 ZADAR 1234567 15:00 02:30 ZAGREB 15:00 06:00 – – – –5 – – *Buses to BUDVA and KOTOR depart daily every 1520min between 05:55 and 24:00. The ride to Budva takes about 1.5 hours, to Kotor 2.5 hours. Buses to NIKŠIĆ depart daily every 20-40min between 05:45 and 23:40, taking 1 hour. ** Departs on even days. Schedule correct at time of publishing. Check all details before departure as times may change.

Ideal Bulevar Ivana Crnojevića 49, tel. +382 68 00 10 01, [email protected], www.idealcar.me.

Kompas E-3, Trg Božane Vučinić bb, tel. +382 20 60

26 80/+382 20 63 42 49, fax +382 20 62 01 27, [email protected], www.kompas-car.com. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Meridian A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 85, tel. +382 20 23 49 44/+382 69 31 66 66, www.meridian-rentacar. com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Renault Podgorica airport, tel. +382 69 01 23 25/+382 20 65 30 67, www.renaultrentmne.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Rokšped K-3, Josipa Broza Tita 30, tel. +382 20 44 55 55/+382 69 32 72 71, fax +382 20 44 55 32, www. roksped.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

City BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BUDAPEST FRANKFURT FRANKFURT LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA LONDON MOSCOW MOSCOW PARIS PRIŠTINA PRIŠTINA ROME ROME ROME ROME SKOPJE NIŠ VIENNA VIENNA VIENNA ZAGREB ZURICH ZURCH ISTANBUL

Airline JU JU JU YM YM YM MA YM YM YM JP JP YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM OS OS OU YM YM TK

39

To Podgorica Dep. Arr. 08:00 09:50 17:25 18:25 21:05 22:05 09:25 10:10 19:30 20:15 18:00 18:45 13:00 14:15 14:40 16:30 14:50 16:40 17:30 18:30 13:30 14:45 17:30 18:30 13:00 16:45 15:10 16:30 15:40 17:00 14:00 16:25 08:15 09:00

Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1–3–5 –– 12345–7 –––––6– ––––5–7 1 – 3 4– – – ––––5–7 ––3–5–7 ––3–5–7 1–––––– –2–4–6– 1234567

14:00 14:30 15:00 15:10 08:15 08:00 10:50 12:45 10:50 14:10 13:30 14:00 11:30

––––5–– –––4 ––– –2––––– ––––––7 1234567 1234567 1–3––6– 12–45–7 1–3––6– 1–3––6– ––––––7 1–3–5 6– –2–4 ––7

15:10 15:40 16:10 16:20 09:00 08:45 12:05 14:20 12:05 15:20 15:20 15:50 10:45

Airline codes: Adria Airways JP, Austrian Airlines OS, Croatia Airlines OU, Jat Airways JU, Malev MA, Montenegro Airlines Siberia Airlines S7, Turkish Airlines TK. Schedule correct at time of publication, and valid until spring 20 details before departure as times may change.

Tivat Airport (Aerodrom Tivat) Tivat, tel. +382 32 Montenegro Airlines E-2, Slobode 23, tel. +382 20 66

67 09 60, fax +382 32 67 09 50, dispatch@aptivat. 44 33/+382 20 44 51 05 (airport), office.podgorica@ com, www.montenegroairports.com. Montenegro’s mgx.me, www.montenegroairlines.com. Flights to Belother airport, coded TIV, is four kilometres southgrade, of Tivat Frankfurt, Ljubljana, Paris, Pristina, Rome, Vienna an on the Adriatic coast, close to Kotor, and about 90km rich.from Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Turkish Airlines Golubovci bb (airport), tel. +382 20 Podgorica. It mainly receives Belgrade flights and charter 65 31 07, fax +382 20 65 31 08, [email protected], airlines, but is a candidate for budget flights. www.turkishairlines.com. Flights to Istanbul. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.

Airlines

Adria Airways B-2, Ivana Vujoševića 46, tel. +382 20

Travel agencies

20 12 01/+382 67 24 11 54, fax +382 20 24 11 54, Airtours B-2, Moskovska 21a (poslovni centar Vektra), [email protected], www.adria-airways.com. Q Open tel. +382 20 23 47 87/+382 20 23 47 89, fax +382 20 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tempo Rent-a-Bike E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 57, tel. Austrian Airlines D-3, Kralja Nikole 12, tel. +382 20 62 23 47 89, [email protected], www.airtours.ru. Q Open +382 20 62 36 32, [email protected], www.tempo. 39 04/+382 20 60 61 70 (airport), agencijasofranac@t08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Atlas Tours C-2, Bul. Svetog Petra Cetinjskog 15, tel. +382 co.me. Bicycles for rent for €5-10 per day. Near the Mall of com.me, www.austrian.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 20 20 31 11, fax +382 20 20 31 10, [email protected], 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Montenegro. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Croatia Airlines B-2, Ivana Vujoševića 46 (Oki Air), tel. www.atlasmne.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16-00. Closed Sun. Gorbis A-2, Bul. Revolucije, Poslovni Centar Kruševac, tel. +382 20 20 12 01/+382 67 24 11 54, fax +382 20 24 11 54, [email protected], www.croatiaairlines.com. +382 20 20 52 15, fax +382 20 20 52 35, www.gorbis. Podgorica Airport (Aerodrom Podgorica) Golubovci, Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jat Airways E-2, Njegoševa 25 (Hotel Eminent), tel. Grand E-2, Hercegovačka 94, tel. +382 20 23 22 tel. +382 20 44 42 44/+382 20 44 42 33, fax +382 20 44 42 21, [email protected], www.montenegroairports. +382 20 66 47 40/+382 20 66 47 50, fax +382 20 66 63/+382 20 21 02 15, fax +382 20 21 02 16, grand@ com. Podgorica’s gleaming modern airport is 8km from the 53 30, [email protected], www.jat.com. Q Open grand.me, www.grand.me. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat city centre, and still carries the TGD code from its Titograd 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. glory days. To get to the airport, hop on the Montenegro Air- Malev E-2, Marka Miljanova 32 (Club Travel), tel. +382 Montenegro Mountain Adventures B-1, Jovana 20 62 52 42, fax +382 20 60 16 16, clubtravel@t-com. Tomaševića 35, tel. +382 69 31 56 01, info@montenegrolines bus (tickets €3) that departs 90 minutes before each of their flights from in front of the Dialogue Café on Trg Republike. me, www.malev.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30adventures.com, www.montenegro-adventure.com. QOpen A taxi will cost about €5-10 if you order it in advance. - 14:00. Closed Sun. 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Bicycles

Airports

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

38

Bus schedule

Bus schedule continued

Flight schedule

Days 1234567 1–––567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Days 1234567

From Podgorica Dep. Arr. 06:30 07:30 09:30 10:30 19:00 20:00 08:00 08:45 09:15 10:00 17:30 18:15 14:50 16:05 11:35 13:45

Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1–3–5 –– 1234567

15:50 15:15 15:50 10:00 09:40 09:10 10:20 17:50 19:00 09:40 10:00

16:50 16:30 16:50 12:00 15:00 14:30 13:00 18:35 19:45 10:50 11:10

––––5–7 1 – 3 4– – – ––––5–7 ––3–5–7 1–––––– –2–4–6– –2–4–6– 1234 5 –7 –––––6– –2––5–7 –––4 –––

17:40 18:00 08:05 15:00 08:05 16:00 10:30 11:00 12:30

18:25 18:45 09:35 16:30 09:35 17:10 12:30 13:00 15:15

1234567 1234567 1–3––6– 12–45–7 1–3––6– 1–3–5 –– ––3––67 1–––5–– –––4 ––7

1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 –2–4–6– 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

City Departure Arrival ARANĐELOVAC 21:35 07:30 BANJA LUKA 20:30 04:00 17:30 BELGRADE 07:30 BELGRADE 08:30 18:30 BELGRADE 09:45 19:45 BELGRADE 11:00 21:00 BELGRADE 19:00 05:00 BELGRADE 20:00 06:00 BELGRADE 20:45 06:45 BELGRADE 22:30 08:30 BELGRADE 23:00 09:00 05:55 BIJELJINA 20:25 BUDVA* ČAČAK-UŽICE- 07:30 14:30 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 19:00 02:00 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 20:00 03:00 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 20:45 03:45 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 21:35 04:35 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 22:30 05:30 ZLATIBOR ČAČAK-UŽICE- 00:40 07:40 ZLATIBOR DOBOJ 21:20 04:30 DUBROVNIK 06:00 10:30 KOTOR* KRAGUJEVAC 08:30 17:50 KRAGUJEVAC 09:45 19:05 KRAGUJEVAC 11:00 20:20 KRAGUJEVAC 21:35 06:55 KRAGUJEVAC 22:27 07:45 KRAGUJEVAC 23:00 08:20 16:00 KRALJEVO 08:30 17:15 KRALJEVO 09:45 17:30 KRALJEVO 10:00 18:30 KRALJEVO 11:00 00:00 KRALJEVO 16:30 03:45 KRALJEVO 20:15 06:00 KRALJEVO 22:27 06:30 KRALJEVO 23:00 19:00 KRUŠEVAC 10:00 01:30 KRUŠEVAC 16:30 05:30 LESKOVAC 16:30 MOSTAR 20:30 00:00 NEVESINJE 08:30 12:30 NEVESINJE 10:50 14:50 NEVESINJE 16:45 20:45 NIKŠIĆ* NIŠ 10:00 19:30 NIŠ 16:30 02:00 NIŠ 20:15 05:45 NOVI PAZAR 08:30 15:30 NOVI PAZAR 09:45 16:45 NOVI PAZAR 10:00 17:00 NOVI PAZAR 11:00 18:00 NOVI PAZAR 16:30 23:30 NOVI PAZAR 20:15 03:15 NOVI PAZAR 22:27 05:30 NOVI PAZAR 23:00 06:00 08:45 NOVI SAD 20:45 09:30 NOVI SAD 22:30 10:00 NOVI SAD 23:00 13:30 PEĆ/PEJA 07:45 02:45 PEĆ/PEJA 21:00 03:15 PEĆ/PEJA 21:30 03:45 PEĆ/PEJA 22:00 08:15 PRIJEDOR 21:20

Podgorica In Your Pocket

40

getting around

getting around City Departure Arrival PRISTINA/ 21:00 05:00 PRISHTINA PRIZREN 07:45 1234567 15:45 PRIZREN 21:30 1234567 05:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SARAJEVO 07:40 13:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SARAJEVO 09:30 15:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SARAJEVO 13:35 19:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SARAJEVO 23:40 05:40 06:00 SKOPJE** 20:00 SPLIT 15:00 01:00 – – – –5 – – 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SUBOTICA 20:45 09:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 SUBOTICA 22:30 11:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 TREBINJE 13:20 10:50 1234567 19:15 TREBINJE 16:45 1234567 23:00 TREBINJE 20:30 ULCINJ 1234567 07:34 09:30 ULCINJ 1234567 09:50 11:50 ULCINJ 1234567 12:49 14:50 ULCINJ 1234567 15:05 17:05 ULCINJ 1234567 15:15 17:15 ULCINJ 1234567 16:05 18:05 ULCINJ 1234567 19:50 21:50 ZADAR 1234567 15:00 02:30 ZAGREB 15:00 06:00 – – – –5 – – *Buses to BUDVA and KOTOR depart daily every 1520min between 05:55 and 24:00. The ride to Budva takes about 1.5 hours, to Kotor 2.5 hours. Buses to NIKŠIĆ depart daily every 20-40min between 05:45 and 23:40, taking 1 hour. ** Departs on even days. Schedule correct at time of publishing. Check all details before departure as times may change.

Ideal Bulevar Ivana Crnojevića 49, tel. +382 68 00 10 01, [email protected], www.idealcar.me.

Kompas E-3, Trg Božane Vučinić bb, tel. +382 20 60

26 80/+382 20 63 42 49, fax +382 20 62 01 27, [email protected], www.kompas-car.com. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Meridian A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 85, tel. +382 20 23 49 44/+382 69 31 66 66, www.meridian-rentacar. com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Renault Podgorica airport, tel. +382 69 01 23 25/+382 20 65 30 67, www.renaultrentmne.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Rokšped K-3, Josipa Broza Tita 30, tel. +382 20 44 55 55/+382 69 32 72 71, fax +382 20 44 55 32, www. roksped.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

City BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BUDAPEST FRANKFURT FRANKFURT LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA LONDON MOSCOW MOSCOW PARIS PRIŠTINA PRIŠTINA ROME ROME ROME ROME SKOPJE NIŠ VIENNA VIENNA VIENNA ZAGREB ZURICH ZURCH ISTANBUL

Airline JU JU JU YM YM YM MA YM YM YM JP JP YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM YM OS OS OU YM YM TK

Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1–3–5 –– 12345–7 –––––6– ––––5–7 1 – 3 4– – – ––––5–7 ––3–5–7 ––3–5–7 1–––––– –2–4–6– 1234567

14:00 14:30 15:00 15:10 08:15 08:00 10:50 12:45 10:50 14:10 13:30 14:00 11:30

––––5–– –––4 ––– –2––––– ––––––7 1234567 1234567 1–3––6– 12–45–7 1–3––6– 1–3––6– ––––––7 1–3–5 6– –2–4 ––7

15:10 15:40 16:10 16:20 09:00 08:45 12:05 14:20 12:05 15:20 15:20 15:50 10:45

Tivat Airport (Aerodrom Tivat) Tivat, tel. +382 32 Montenegro Airlines E-2, Slobode 23, tel. +382 20 66

67 09 60, fax +382 32 67 09 50, dispatch@aptivat. 44 33/+382 20 44 51 05 (airport), office.podgorica@ com, www.montenegroairports.com. Montenegro’s mgx.me, www.montenegroairlines.com. Flights to Belother airport, coded TIV, is four kilometres southgrade, of Tivat Frankfurt, Ljubljana, Paris, Pristina, Rome, Vienna an on the Adriatic coast, close to Kotor, and about 90km rich.from Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Turkish Airlines Golubovci bb (airport), tel. +382 20 Podgorica. It mainly receives Belgrade flights and charter 65 31 07, fax +382 20 65 31 08, [email protected], airlines, but is a candidate for budget flights. www.turkishairlines.com. Flights to Istanbul. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.

Airlines

Adria Airways B-2, Ivana Vujoševića 46, tel. +382 20

Travel agencies

20 12 01/+382 67 24 11 54, fax +382 20 24 11 54, Airtours B-2, Moskovska 21a (poslovni centar Vektra), [email protected], www.adria-airways.com. Q Open tel. +382 20 23 47 87/+382 20 23 47 89, fax +382 20 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tempo Rent-a-Bike E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 57, tel. Austrian Airlines D-3, Kralja Nikole 12, tel. +382 20 62 23 47 89, [email protected], www.airtours.ru. Q Open +382 20 62 36 32, [email protected], www.tempo. 39 04/+382 20 60 61 70 (airport), agencijasofranac@t08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Atlas Tours C-2, Bul. Svetog Petra Cetinjskog 15, tel. +382 co.me. Bicycles for rent for €5-10 per day. Near the Mall of com.me, www.austrian.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 20 20 31 11, fax +382 20 20 31 10, [email protected], 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Montenegro. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Croatia Airlines B-2, Ivana Vujoševića 46 (Oki Air), tel. www.atlasmne.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16-00. Closed Sun. Gorbis A-2, Bul. Revolucije, Poslovni Centar Kruševac, tel. +382 20 20 12 01/+382 67 24 11 54, fax +382 20 24 11 54, [email protected], www.croatiaairlines.com. +382 20 20 52 15, fax +382 20 20 52 35, www.gorbis. Podgorica Airport (Aerodrom Podgorica) Golubovci, Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jat Airways E-2, Njegoševa 25 (Hotel Eminent), tel. Grand E-2, Hercegovačka 94, tel. +382 20 23 22 tel. +382 20 44 42 44/+382 20 44 42 33, fax +382 20 44 42 21, [email protected], www.montenegroairports. +382 20 66 47 40/+382 20 66 47 50, fax +382 20 66 63/+382 20 21 02 15, fax +382 20 21 02 16, grand@ com. Podgorica’s gleaming modern airport is 8km from the 53 30, [email protected], www.jat.com. Q Open grand.me, www.grand.me. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat city centre, and still carries the TGD code from its Titograd 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. glory days. To get to the airport, hop on the Montenegro Air- Malev E-2, Marka Miljanova 32 (Club Travel), tel. +382 Montenegro Mountain Adventures B-1, Jovana 20 62 52 42, fax +382 20 60 16 16, clubtravel@t-com. Tomaševića 35, tel. +382 69 31 56 01, info@montenegrolines bus (tickets €3) that departs 90 minutes before each of their flights from in front of the Dialogue Café on Trg Republike. me, www.malev.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30adventures.com, www.montenegro-adventure.com. QOpen A taxi will cost about €5-10 if you order it in advance. - 14:00. Closed Sun. 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Bicycles

Airports

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

sHopping m:tel E-2, Vuka Karadžića 8, tel. +382 68 98 68, www.

mtel-cg.com. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Telenor A-1, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 83, tel. +382 20 23 50 00, [email protected], www.telenor.me. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. T-Mobile E-2, Slobode 80, tel. +382 67 15 00, call. [email protected], www.t-mobile.me. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Internet cafés

Internet cafés in Podgorica are not as widespread as in the coastal resorts, but once you’ve located one you’ll only pay around €1 per hour. Note that in 2009 Montenegro’s country domain changed from .cg.yu to .me, offering the global porn industry wonderful new URL opportunities.

Foto Riva D-2, Njegoševa 38, tel. +382 20 66 55 99, JvM

To Podgorica Dep. Arr. 08:00 09:50 17:25 18:25 21:05 22:05 09:25 10:10 19:30 20:15 18:00 18:45 13:00 14:15 14:40 16:30 14:50 16:40 17:30 18:30 13:30 14:45 17:30 18:30 13:00 16:45 15:10 16:30 15:40 17:00 14:00 16:25 08:15 09:00

Airline codes: Adria Airways JP, Austrian Airlines OS, Croatia Airlines OU, Jat Airways JU, Malev MA, Montenegro Airlines Siberia Airlines S7, Turkish Airlines TK. Schedule correct at time of publication, and valid until spring 20 details before departure as times may change.

MaiL & pHones

Graffiti on a jewellery shop wall

39

fax +382 20 66 46 82, [email protected]. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382

Shopping in Podgorica can be a delightfully old-world experience, as it is full of small shops and boutiques that require plenty of strolling around. The arrival of the large Delta City mall on Podgorica’s outskirts has certainly effected the city centre shops, but the city centre struck back with newly lit and pedestrianised streets, so it’s uncertain what its lasting effect will be. Many upmarket fashion boutiques can be found along Bulevard Džordža Vašingtona in the Novi Grad district.

Art

Al Gallery D-2, Karađorđeva 6, tel. +382 20 66 46 08,

[email protected]. Montenegrin paintings and sculptures from the 20th and 21st centuries. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Miki D-2, Njegoševa 60, tel. +382 20 66 41 07/+382 67 32 11 11. Modern, traditional and magic realism paintings. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Books & Magazines

20 60 26 25, fax +382 20 60 26 26, [email protected], How to get in touch with the loved ones you left behind or www.karver.org. Paid access above the café of the same came to meet. name, inside the old Turkish bath complex. There’s free wifi too. Q Open 09:00 - 23:30. WWW Club D-2, Bokeška 4, tel. +382 69 45 20 69. A lively bar with several PCs for surfing. Q Open 08:00 Stamps are for sale at post offices and at the kiosks 02:00. near the main post office. Sending a postcard or a 20g letter from Podgorica costs €0.25 within Montenegro, and €0.50 to any destination abroad. Travellers will find many cafés, restaurants and hotels in Main Post Office (Pošta Crne Gore) D-3, Slobode 1, Podgorica offering free wireless internet, for which you only tel. +382 20 66 54 34/+382 19 801, [email protected], need WLAN on your laptop, and possibly an access code from the waiter or reception. 3G (HSDPA) internet is now www.postacg.me. There are secondary post offices with more limited opening hours at ul. Orahovačka bb, Moskovska available in 20% of Montenegro, including all of Podgorica, 32, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 121 and ul. Bratstva i with Jedinstva the rest of the country adequately covered by UMTS, EDGE and GPRS. Wireless USB modems are sold by all bb. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. three mobile phone operators. Recharge vouchers cost €20 for 2GB of data. Residents can contact T-Com and M:tel for WIMAX and ADSL home packages. Dial-up servCity Express Sergeja Jesenjina 7, tel. +382 20 64 11 ices are still offered by T-Com for remote areas. 66, fax +382 20 63 35 19, backoff[email protected], www.cityexpress.me. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. DHL E-2, Marka Miljanova 52, tel./fax +382 20 63 39 22, www.dhl.co.yu. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Making calls FedEx G-3, Vojislavljevića 66, tel. +382 20 64 34 26, To phone abroad from Montenegro, dial the international fax +382 20 64 34 25, www.fedex.com/me. Q Open access number (00), the country code, the area code and 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. the subscriber’s number. Montenomaks J-3, Mitra Bakića 74, tel. +382 20 60 12 For calls within Montenegro, dial the city code and 35/+382 69 04 01 97, fax +382 20 62 22 83, podgor-the subscriber’s number. Podgorica numbers have six [email protected], www.montenomaks.com.digits. Mobile phone numbers all start with 063, 067, Q Open08:00- 18:00, Sat 08:00- 16:00. ClosedSun.068 or 069. TNT Cijevna bb, tel. +382 20 60 64 50, tnt.timkop@tTo call to Montenegro from abroad, dial the internacom.me, www.timkop.me. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat tional access number (usually 00), the country code 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. (382), the city or mobile phone number (dropping the UPS Cijevna 10, tel. +382 20 60 64 30, fax + 382 20 60 initial 0; Podgorica is 20) followed by the subscriber’s number. 64 31, www.ups.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Bega Press E-2, Novaka Miloševa 10. Local books

Montenegro telephone codes Bar 030 Kotor 032 Montenegrins are as mobile phone mad as anyone in the Berane 051 Nikšić 040 Balkans, and the network coverage in cites, main roads and Polje 050 Pljevlja 052 Bijelo along the coast in Montenegro is good. Anyone can buy a local 033 Budva Podgorica 020 prepaid SIM card for about €5 to avoid paying high roaming Cetinje 041 Rožaje 051 charges when calling or being called, and you can use Herceg them Novi 031 Ulcinj 030 abroad too. They’re for sale at mobile phone shops, post ofKolašin 020 fices and kiosks, and no ID or registration is required.

Mobile phones

Primus E-2, Novaka Miloševa 16, tel. +382 20 21 50

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Post

Laptop login

Express mail

Telephones

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

41

and stationery supplies. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00.

Gradska Knjižara E-2, Trg Republike 40, tel. +382

20 21 03 75, [email protected]. The main city centre bookshop only has a small selection of tourism-related books in English. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25, fax +382 20 60 26 26, [email protected], www.karver.org. The funkiest bookshop in town, worth a visit for the atmosphere. Located inside Podgorica’s old Turkish bath house, find a rather meagre selection of Englishlanguage books under the dome in the middle. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Mamut G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 20 29 00 04, www.ips.rs. The only reasonable bookshop in town, with a tiny English section. Ordering foreign books via Belgrade takes up to six weeks, enough time to write a novel yourself. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Sv. Jovan Vladimir D-2, Njegoševa 27, tel. +382 20 66 40 03. In the midst of all the cafés and bars belting out loud music, this small Orthodox Christian shop sells religious books, icons, cards and crosses. Lest you forget where we all end up. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Computers

Jabbuka D-2, Bokeška 6, tel./fax +382 20 66 56 63,

www.jabbuka.com. Sales and repair of all Apple items.

Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Tagor C-2, Svetozara Markovića 18, tel. +382 20 23

84 31, www.tagor.co.me. Quite possibly the best place in the city to come and have your laptop fixed, or for any other computer-related issues. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Electronics

05. Toasters to televisions, hi-fi to hairdriers. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Fashion & Shoes

Bata E-2, Slobode 15, tel. +382 20 66 76 00, fax +382

20 66 76 01, [email protected]. Affordable shoe fashion. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

November 2010 - April 2011

40

sHopping

MaiL & pHones m:tel E-2, Vuka Karadžića 8, tel. +382 68 98 68, www.

mtel-cg.com. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Telenor A-1, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 83, tel. +382 20 23 50 00, [email protected], www.telenor.me. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. T-Mobile E-2, Slobode 80, tel. +382 67 15 00, call. [email protected], www.t-mobile.me. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Internet cafés

Internet cafés in Podgorica are not as widespread as in the coastal resorts, but once you’ve located one you’ll only pay around €1 per hour. Note that in 2009 Montenegro’s country domain changed from .cg.yu to .me, offering the global porn industry wonderful new URL opportunities.

Foto Riva D-2, Njegoševa 38, tel. +382 20 66 55 99, Graffiti on a jewellery shop wall

JvM

fax +382 20 66 46 82, [email protected]. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382

Art

Al Gallery D-2, Karađorđeva 6, tel. +382 20 66 46 08,

[email protected]. Montenegrin paintings and sculptures from the 20th and 21st centuries. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Miki D-2, Njegoševa 60, tel. +382 20 66 41 07/+382 67 32 11 11. Modern, traditional and magic realism paintings. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Books & Magazines

Bega Press E-2, Novaka Miloševa 10. Local books

Montenegro telephone codes Bar 030 Kotor 032 Montenegrins are as mobile phone mad as anyone in the Berane 051 Nikšić 040 Balkans, and the network coverage in cites, main roads and Polje 050 Pljevlja 052 Bijelo along the coast in Montenegro is good. Anyone can buy a local 033 Budva Podgorica 020 prepaid SIM card for about €5 to avoid paying high roaming Cetinje 041 Rožaje 051 charges when calling or being called, and you can use Herceg them Novi 031 Ulcinj 030 abroad too. They’re for sale at mobile phone shops, post ofKolašin 020 fices and kiosks, and no ID or registration is required.

Mobile phones

Primus E-2, Novaka Miloševa 16, tel. +382 20 21 50

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Laptop login

Express mail

Telephones

42

Shopping in Podgorica can be a delightfully old-world experience, as it is full of small shops and boutiques that require plenty of strolling around. The arrival of the large Delta City mall on Podgorica’s outskirts has certainly effected the city centre shops, but the city centre struck back with newly lit and pedestrianised streets, so it’s uncertain what its lasting effect will be. Many upmarket fashion boutiques can be found along Bulevard Džordža Vašingtona in the Novi Grad district.

20 60 26 25, fax +382 20 60 26 26, [email protected], How to get in touch with the loved ones you left behind or www.karver.org. Paid access above the café of the same came to meet. name, inside the old Turkish bath complex. There’s free wifi too. Q Open 09:00 - 23:30. WWW Club D-2, Bokeška 4, tel. +382 69 45 20 69. A lively bar with several PCs for surfing. Q Open 08:00 Stamps are for sale at post offices and at the kiosks 02:00. near the main post office. Sending a postcard or a 20g letter from Podgorica costs €0.25 within Montenegro, and €0.50 to any destination abroad. Travellers will find many cafés, restaurants and hotels in Main Post Office (Pošta Crne Gore) D-3, Slobode 1, Podgorica offering free wireless internet, for which you only tel. +382 20 66 54 34/+382 19 801, [email protected], need WLAN on your laptop, and possibly an access code from the waiter or reception. 3G (HSDPA) internet is now www.postacg.me. There are secondary post offices with more limited opening hours at ul. Orahovačka bb, Moskovska available in 20% of Montenegro, including all of Podgorica, 32, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 121 and ul. Bratstva i with Jedinstva the rest of the country adequately covered by UMTS, EDGE and GPRS. Wireless USB modems are sold by all bb. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. three mobile phone operators. Recharge vouchers cost €20 for 2GB of data. Residents can contact T-Com and M:tel for WIMAX and ADSL home packages. Dial-up servCity Express Sergeja Jesenjina 7, tel. +382 20 64 11 ices are still offered by T-Com for remote areas. 66, fax +382 20 63 35 19, backoff[email protected], www.cityexpress.me. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. DHL E-2, Marka Miljanova 52, tel./fax +382 20 63 39 22, www.dhl.co.yu. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Making calls FedEx G-3, Vojislavljevića 66, tel. +382 20 64 34 26, To phone abroad from Montenegro, dial the international fax +382 20 64 34 25, www.fedex.com/me. Q Open access number (00), the country code, the area code and 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. the subscriber’s number. Montenomaks J-3, Mitra Bakića 74, tel. +382 20 60 12 For calls within Montenegro, dial the city code and 35/+382 69 04 01 97, fax +382 20 62 22 83, podgor-the subscriber’s number. Podgorica numbers have six [email protected], www.montenomaks.com.digits. Mobile phone numbers all start with 063, 067, Q Open08:00- 18:00, Sat 08:00- 16:00. ClosedSun.068 or 069. TNT Cijevna bb, tel. +382 20 60 64 50, tnt.timkop@tTo call to Montenegro from abroad, dial the internacom.me, www.timkop.me. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat tional access number (usually 00), the country code 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. (382), the city or mobile phone number (dropping the UPS Cijevna 10, tel. +382 20 60 64 30, fax + 382 20 60 initial 0; Podgorica is 20) followed by the subscriber’s number. 64 31, www.ups.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Post

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

and stationery supplies. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00.

Gradska Knjižara E-2, Trg Republike 40, tel. +382

20 21 03 75, [email protected]. The main city centre bookshop only has a small selection of tourism-related books in English. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25, fax +382 20 60 26 26, [email protected], www.karver.org. The funkiest bookshop in town, worth a visit for the atmosphere. Located inside Podgorica’s old Turkish bath house, find a rather meagre selection of Englishlanguage books under the dome in the middle. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Mamut G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 20 29 00 04, www.ips.rs. The only reasonable bookshop in town, with a tiny English section. Ordering foreign books via Belgrade takes up to six weeks, enough time to write a novel yourself. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Sv. Jovan Vladimir D-2, Njegoševa 27, tel. +382 20 66 40 03. In the midst of all the cafés and bars belting out loud music, this small Orthodox Christian shop sells religious books, icons, cards and crosses. Lest you forget where we all end up. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Computers

Jabbuka D-2, Bokeška 6, tel./fax +382 20 66 56 63,

www.jabbuka.com. Sales and repair of all Apple items.

Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Tagor C-2, Svetozara Markovića 18, tel. +382 20 23

84 31, www.tagor.co.me. Quite possibly the best place in the city to come and have your laptop fixed, or for any other computer-related issues. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Electronics

05. Toasters to televisions, hi-fi to hairdriers. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Fashion & Shoes

Bata E-2, Slobode 15, tel. +382 20 66 76 00, fax +382

20 66 76 01, [email protected]. Affordable shoe fashion. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

November 2010 - April 2011

sHopping

sHopping Benneton E-2, Novaka Miloševa 14, tel. +382 20 23 15

Iana G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 69 30 44, [email protected]. A small shop selling genuine gear. 09 28. Affordable Italian clothes for kids. Q Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Smashing coloured suitcases too. Q Open 08:30 - 21:30. Lacoste A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 Closed Sun. Beretta E-2, Balšića 37, tel. +382 20 21 50 30, 20 23 49 03, [email protected], www.samms.co.me. [email protected]. Outdoor gear inside the Ražnatović Selling the stylish French brand with the croc. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A mall. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Diesel A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20 23 Manual D-2, Njegoševa 31, tel. +382 20 66 55 78. 46 35, www.diesel.com. Diesel denim and other clothing. Handbags, wallets, hats and belts. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A DVD Sport Open Trade E-2, Slobode 72, tel. +382Marina Rinaldi A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. 20 66 42 54, [email protected]. Puma sport fashion. +382 69 07 37 59, www.marinarinaldi.com. Upmarket Q Open 08:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A ladies’ fashion. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Ermenegildo Zegna A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb,Navigare E-2, Hercegovačka 46, tel. +382 20 66 56 tel. +382 20 22 83 36, www.samms.co.me. Stylish Italian 40, [email protected]. Look like a sailor with bright men’s clothes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Italian Yachting brand clothes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Esprit (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City Closed Sun. Nikola’S E-2, Marka Miljanova 17, tel. +382 20 23 07 mall), tel. +382 67 26 33 97, esprit.deltacitypg@ sportina.rt, www.sportina.si. Upmarket fashion for young 41. Leisure and business clothing. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A people. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Haos E-2, Čelebić A/l4, tel. +382 69 33 19 01. Alterna- Orsay (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City tive, trendy fashion. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. mall), tel. +382 67 26 33 96, www.orsay.de. Affordable ladies’ fashion. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 20:00. A Oviesse G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 69 30 31 13. Italian fashion for men and women. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Pal Zileri D-2, Njegoševa 16, tel. +382 20 66 45 34. Upmarket clothes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Paul & Shark A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20 23 49 01, www.samms.co.me. Yachting-themed clothing. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A PS Fashion D-2, Hercegovačka 52, tel. +382 68 11 17 63. The Serbian Mango; trendy young women’s clothes. Q Open 08:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Replay E-2, Slobode 25, tel. +382 20 66 42 44, [email protected]. Jeans and other hip clothes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Six G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 20 26 33 95, www.sportina.si. Trendy ladies’ fashion. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A S. Oliver B-2, Moskovska 33, tel. +382 20 22 83 28, [email protected], www.soliver-montenegro. me. Stylish menswear. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Tally Weijl (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 20 26 33 98, www.tally-weijl. com. Interesting ladies’ fashion. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Terranova E-2, Trg Republike 4. Trendy clothes for young men and women. Inside the Podgoricanka building. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. XYZ (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 67 26 33 94, [email protected], www.sportina.si. Trendy, multibrand high fashion. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A

Food & Drink

Roda Market E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 66 48

10. Perhaps a tad overhyped, Carine has a small but handy supermarket in the basement of its popular food emporium. Also on Skopska. Q Open 06:30 - 22:00.

For the home

Habitat A-3, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 11, tel. +382 20

22 80 09/+382 69 06 63 50, [email protected].

Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

41

43

Gifts & Souvenirs

Tabacco Shop E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2, tel. +382

69 39 90 15. The tobacco and souvenir shop inside the Crna Gora hotel sells Montenegro T-shirts (€15), postcards, CDs and photo books. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A

Jewellery & Watches

S&L Monte E-2, Slobode 31, tel. +382 20 66 54 00, [email protected]. Sun. A

Q Open

09:00 - 22:00. Closed

Mobile phones

GSM Planet D-2, Vučedolska 9, tel. +382 20 66 52

In our stores in Podgorica, Budva, Kotor and Bar you can nd a large selection of products for your child - from the rst months to 14 years (clothing, footwear, toys, accessories, cosmetics World-renowned brands: Chicco, Peg-Perego, Original Marines, Brevi, Lego... guarantee high quality!

96/+382 69 88 81 55, [email protected]. Q Open KIDS LAND -PODGORICAKIDS LAND -KOTOR 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Jevrić Business CenterTržni centar KAMELIJA

Musical instruments

Gloria E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 66 44 14,

Hercegovačka br. 49 Tel: 069/388-294; Tel: 069/318-851; [email protected] [email protected]

[email protected]. Music shop with a wide range KIDS LAND -BUDVA KIDS LAND -BAR of instruments, amps and expert advice. In the stadium. Ul. 22 novembar bb Ul. Maršala Tita br. C15 Q Open09:00- 21:00. Tel: 069/326-948; Tel: 069/303-661;

Photography

[email protected]@t-com.me

Foto Boni D-3, Slobode 5, tel. +382 20 66 75

05/+382 20 66 74 04, [email protected], www. fotoboni.net. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Foto Nikić Digital E-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 107, tel. +382 20 66 41 04, [email protected], www.fotoniMall of Montenegro E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85, kic.com. Photo and business card printing, DVD burning, films, camera repair. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. tel. +382 20 62 53 14, www.mallofmontenegro.com. Opened in early 2010, this is the largest mall in the count with the large Mercator supermarket and the lively adjoin fresh produce market (zelena pijaca) as anchors, as well as Alexandar Business Centar D-2, Hercegovačkaa pharmacy, bank, fashion and sports shops, a bowling alle 12, tel. +382 68 80 04 10, bcalexandar@t-com. fitness centre and virtual shooting range. Near the train a me, www.bc-alexandar.com. Shopping gallery with bus stations, and reached on buses N°1, 7, 8, 9. Q Open Cotton men’s fashion, Diva women’s fashion and 09:00-22:00, Eusupermarket 07:00-22:00. Podgoričanka E-2, Trg Republike 4, tel. +382 20 23 phoria jewellery shops. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed 08 64. Furniture in the basement, footwear, perfume, ladies Sun. A Centar Milenium E-2, Hercegovačka 31, tel. +382 clothes and souvenirs on the ground floor and even mor wonderful surprises at the top of the escalator. It’ll be intere 20 66 52 16. A small shopping gallery, home to fashion, ing to telephone and children’s clothes shops. Q Open 09:00 - see how long this wonderful communist-era shoppin treat can hold out against the creeping claws of internation 21:00. Closed Sun. A Delta City G-2, Cetinjski put bb, tel. +382 800 200 30 capitalism. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A RM Centar D-2, Hercegovačka 10, tel. +382 69 01 35 01 00/+382 68 87 86 31, [email protected], www. deltacity.me. Montenegro’s first proper Šoping-Mol lives up18. Shopping gallery with MNT watches and a Stylos stationary to expectations, with a Super Maxi supermarket (open from and suitcases shop. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A 08:00), a good range of shoe and clothing shops (Mango, Zara, Aldo, Nike, Bershka, Pull and Bear, XYZ), Neptun electronics, Mamut books, the Ster cinema complex, a Costa Coffee Havana Cigar Shop E-2, Slobode 28. Cuban Cohiba outlet and a sports café. Buses N°2 and 5 pass by. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. cigars, smoking accessories, rum and other liquor. Q Open Jevrić Centar E-2, Hercegovačka 49, tel. +382 67 21 09:00 - 21:00. 48 88. A gallery with more upmarket boutiques. Q Open 09.00 - 22.00.

Shopping centres

Speciality shops

Toys Download free PDFs of all69 49. Q Open 08:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Enci Menci G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 In Your Pocket guides at 69 39 57 14. Toys, clothes, children’s gear. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. www.inyourpocket.com. Kids’ Land E-2, Hercegovačka 49, tel. +382 69 31 88 51. Baby Trend 1 E-2, Trg Republike bb, tel. +382 69 32

Everything for children. Q Open 09:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun.

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

42

sHopping

sHopping Benneton E-2, Novaka Miloševa 14, tel. +382 20 23 15

Iana G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 69 30 44, [email protected]. A small shop selling genuine gear. 09 28. Affordable Italian clothes for kids. Q Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Smashing coloured suitcases too. Q Open 08:30 - 21:30. Lacoste A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 Closed Sun. Beretta E-2, Balšića 37, tel. +382 20 21 50 30, 20 23 49 03, [email protected], www.samms.co.me. [email protected]. Outdoor gear inside the Ražnatović Selling the stylish French brand with the croc. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A mall. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Diesel A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20 23 Manual D-2, Njegoševa 31, tel. +382 20 66 55 78. 46 35, www.diesel.com. Diesel denim and other clothing. Handbags, wallets, hats and belts. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A DVD Sport Open Trade E-2, Slobode 72, tel. +382Marina Rinaldi A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. 20 66 42 54, [email protected]. Puma sport fashion. +382 69 07 37 59, www.marinarinaldi.com. Upmarket Q Open 08:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A ladies’ fashion. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Ermenegildo Zegna A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb,Navigare E-2, Hercegovačka 46, tel. +382 20 66 56 tel. +382 20 22 83 36, www.samms.co.me. Stylish Italian 40, [email protected]. Look like a sailor with bright men’s clothes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Italian Yachting brand clothes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Esprit (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City Closed Sun. Nikola’S E-2, Marka Miljanova 17, tel. +382 20 23 07 mall), tel. +382 67 26 33 97, esprit.deltacitypg@ sportina.rt, www.sportina.si. Upmarket fashion for young 41. Leisure and business clothing. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A people. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Haos E-2, Čelebić A/l4, tel. +382 69 33 19 01. Alterna- Orsay (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City tive, trendy fashion. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. mall), tel. +382 67 26 33 96, www.orsay.de. Affordable ladies’ fashion. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 20:00. A Oviesse G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 69 30 31 13. Italian fashion for men and women. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Pal Zileri D-2, Njegoševa 16, tel. +382 20 66 45 34. Upmarket clothes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Paul & Shark A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20 23 49 01, www.samms.co.me. Yachting-themed clothing. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A PS Fashion D-2, Hercegovačka 52, tel. +382 68 11 17 63. The Serbian Mango; trendy young women’s clothes. Q Open 08:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Replay E-2, Slobode 25, tel. +382 20 66 42 44, [email protected]. Jeans and other hip clothes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Six G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 20 26 33 95, www.sportina.si. Trendy ladies’ fashion. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A S. Oliver B-2, Moskovska 33, tel. +382 20 22 83 28, [email protected], www.soliver-montenegro. me. Stylish menswear. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Tally Weijl (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 20 26 33 98, www.tally-weijl. com. Interesting ladies’ fashion. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Terranova E-2, Trg Republike 4. Trendy clothes for young men and women. Inside the Podgoricanka building. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. XYZ (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 67 26 33 94, [email protected], www.sportina.si. Trendy, multibrand high fashion. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A

Food & Drink

Roda Market E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 66 48

10. Perhaps a tad overhyped, Carine has a small but handy supermarket in the basement of its popular food emporium. Also on Skopska. Q Open 06:30 - 22:00.

For the home

Habitat A-3, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 11, tel. +382 20

22 80 09/+382 69 06 63 50, [email protected].

Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Podgorica In Your Pocket

44

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Gifts & Souvenirs

Tabacco Shop E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2, tel. +382

69 39 90 15. The tobacco and souvenir shop inside the Crna Gora hotel sells Montenegro T-shirts (€15), postcards, CDs and photo books. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A

Jewellery & Watches

S&L Monte E-2, Slobode 31, tel. +382 20 66 54 00, [email protected]. Sun. A

Q Open

In our stores in Podgorica, Budva, Kotor and Bar you can nd a large selection of products for your child - from the rst months to 14 years (clothing, footwear, toys, accessories, cosmetics World-renowned brands: Chicco, Peg-Perego, Original Marines, Brevi, Lego... guarantee high quality!

09:00 - 22:00. Closed

Mobile phones

GSM Planet D-2, Vučedolska 9, tel. +382 20 66 52

96/+382 69 88 81 55, [email protected]. Q Open KIDS LAND -PODGORICAKIDS LAND -KOTOR 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Jevrić Business CenterTržni centar KAMELIJA Hercegovačka br. 49 Tel: 069/388-294; Tel: 069/318-851; [email protected] [email protected]

Musical instruments

Gloria E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 66 44 14,

[email protected]. Music shop with a wide range KIDS LAND -BUDVA KIDS LAND -BAR of instruments, amps and expert advice. In the stadium. Ul. 22 novembar bb Ul. Maršala Tita br. C15 Q Open09:00- 21:00. Tel: 069/326-948; Tel: 069/303-661; [email protected]@t-com.me

Photography

Foto Boni D-3, Slobode 5, tel. +382 20 66 75

05/+382 20 66 74 04, [email protected], www. fotoboni.net. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Foto Nikić Digital E-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 107, tel. +382 20 66 41 04, [email protected], www.fotoniMall of Montenegro E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85, kic.com. Photo and business card printing, DVD burning, films, camera repair. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. tel. +382 20 62 53 14, www.mallofmontenegro.com. Opened in early 2010, this is the largest mall in the count with the large Mercator supermarket and the lively adjoin fresh produce market (zelena pijaca) as anchors, as well as Alexandar Business Centar D-2, Hercegovačkaa pharmacy, bank, fashion and sports shops, a bowling alle 12, tel. +382 68 80 04 10, bcalexandar@t-com. fitness centre and virtual shooting range. Near the train a me, www.bc-alexandar.com. Shopping gallery with bus stations, and reached on buses N°1, 7, 8, 9. Q Open Cotton men’s fashion, Diva women’s fashion and 09:00-22:00, Eusupermarket 07:00-22:00. Podgoričanka E-2, Trg Republike 4, tel. +382 20 23 phoria jewellery shops. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed 08 64. Furniture in the basement, footwear, perfume, ladies Sun. A Centar Milenium E-2, Hercegovačka 31, tel. +382 clothes and souvenirs on the ground floor and even mor wonderful surprises at the top of the escalator. It’ll be intere 20 66 52 16. A small shopping gallery, home to fashion, ing to telephone and children’s clothes shops. Q Open 09:00 - see how long this wonderful communist-era shoppin treat can hold out against the creeping claws of internation 21:00. Closed Sun. A Delta City G-2, Cetinjski put bb, tel. +382 800 200 30 capitalism. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A RM Centar D-2, Hercegovačka 10, tel. +382 69 01 35 01 00/+382 68 87 86 31, [email protected], www. deltacity.me. Montenegro’s first proper Šoping-Mol lives up18. Shopping gallery with MNT watches and a Stylos stationary to expectations, with a Super Maxi supermarket (open from and suitcases shop. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A 08:00), a good range of shoe and clothing shops (Mango, Zara, Aldo, Nike, Bershka, Pull and Bear, XYZ), Neptun electronics, Mamut books, the Ster cinema complex, a Costa Coffee Havana Cigar Shop E-2, Slobode 28. Cuban Cohiba outlet and a sports café. Buses N°2 and 5 pass by. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. cigars, smoking accessories, rum and other liquor. Q Open Jevrić Centar E-2, Hercegovačka 49, tel. +382 67 21 09:00 - 21:00. 48 88. A gallery with more upmarket boutiques. Q Open 09.00 - 22.00.

Shopping centres

Speciality shops

Toys Download free PDFs of all69 49. Q Open 08:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Enci Menci G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 In Your Pocket guides at 69 39 57 14. Toys, clothes, children’s gear. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. www.inyourpocket.com. Kids’ Land E-2, Hercegovačka 49, tel. +382 69 31 88 51. Baby Trend 1 E-2, Trg Republike bb, tel. +382 69 32

Everything for children. Q Open 09:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun.

November 2010 - April 2011

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

direCtory

direCtory Accountants & Auditors

Austria D-4, Kralja Nikole 104, tel. +382 20 60 15

80, fax +382 20 62 43 44, [email protected]. @tic+ A-2, Rimski trg (Poslovni centar Kruševac), tel./ Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bosnia & Herzegovina K-1, Atinska 58, tel. +382 20 fax +382 20 23 40 73, [email protected]. Q Open 08:00 61 80 15, fax +382 20 61 80 16, amb.podgorica@mvp. - 21:00. Closed Sun. gov.ba. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bulgaria K-1, Vukice Mitrovića 10, tel. +382 20 65 50 09, fax +382 20 65 50 08, [email protected]. Incognito E-2, Hercegovačka 31, tel. +382 20 66 77 Q Open 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. China J-3, Radosava Burića 4a, tel. +382 20 60 92 25, [email protected], www.incognito.co.me. 75, fax +382 20 60 92 96, [email protected]. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Mapa E-1, 19 Decembra 3 (City Stadium), tel. +382 20 Q Open08:30- 15:00. Croatia G-1, Vladimira Ćetkovića 2, tel. +382 20 26 97 66 42 82, fax +382 20 66 42 85, [email protected], www. mapa.co.me. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 60, fax +382 20 26 98 10, croemb.podgorica@mvpei. Montimprex C-4, Crnogorskih serdara bb, tel. +382 20 hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. France K-1, Atinska 35, tel. +382 20 65 53 48, fax 60 14 20, [email protected], www.montimprex. +382 20 65 56 43, [email protected], co.me. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Strawberry Montenegro J-1, Malo brdo N3/4-9, tel.www.ambafrance-me.org. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed +382 69 31 08 48, [email protected], www. Sat, Sun. Germany D-2, Hercegovačka 10, tel./fax +382 20 66 strawberry-mne.com. 72 85, [email protected], www.podgorica. diplo.de. Q Open 08.00 - 16.00, Fri 08.00 - 14.00. Closed Sat, Sun. Atlasmont Banka B-2, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 40 Greece K-1, Atinska 4, tel. +382 20 65 55 44, fax +382 79 16, fax +382 20 40 79 76, www.atlasmontbanka.com. 20 65 55 43, [email protected]. Q Open 08:30 - 15:30. Q Open08:00-16:00,Sat08:00-13:00.ClosedSun.Closed Sat, Sun. Hipotekarna Banka K-3, Josipa Broza Tita 67, tel.Hungary D-4, Kralja Nikole 104, tel. +382 20 60 29 +382 20 44 43 01, [email protected], www.hb.co. 10, fax +382 20 62 52 43, [email protected], www. me. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. mfa.gov.hu/emb/podgorica. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30. NLB Montenegrobanka D-1, Stanka Dragojevića 46,Closed Sat, Sun. Italy A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 83, tel. +382 20 23 tel. +382 20 40 20 00, fax 382 20 40 22 12, info@ montenegro-banka.com, www.nlb.me. Q Open 08:0046 - 61, fax +382 20 23 46 63, segreteria.podgorica@ 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. esteri.it, www.conspodgorica.esteri.it/ambasciaPodgorička Banka E-2, Novaka Miloševa 8a, tel. +382 ta_podgorica. Q Open 09.00 - 17.00, Fri 09.00 - 14.00. 20 40 51 00, fax +382 20 40 51 07, info.pgbanka@ Closed Sat, Sun. socgen.com, www.pgbanka.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.Macedonia E-2, Hercegovačka 49/3, tel. +382 20 66 74 15, fax +382 20 66 72 05, [email protected]. Closed Sat, Sun. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Poland K-3, Kozaračka 79, tel. +382 20 60 83 20, fax +382 20 65 85 81, [email protected]. Gala Wellness Club B-2, Moskovska 65, tel. +382 20 22 pl, www.podgorica.polemb.net. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. 84 13, www.wellnessclub.com. Q Open 13:00 - 21:00. P Closed Sat, Sun. Salon Orijente E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 Romania K-1, Vukice Mitrović 40, tel. +382 20 61 80 40, fax +382 20 65 50 81, ambs.romania.mne@t66 58 50, [email protected]. Holistic healing therapy with a wide range of massage techniques such Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, Wed 14:30 - 16:00. com.me. as Swedish, Ayurvedic, forearm, elbow, four hand,Closed foot and Sat, Sun. Russia Veliše Mugoše 1, tel. +382 20 27 24 60, fax sports. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PA +382 20 27 23 17, [email protected]. Q Open 08:00 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun. Serbia D-2, Hercegovačka 18, tel. +382 20 66 73 05, Chamber of Economy of Montenegro Novaka fax +382 20 66 43 01, [email protected]. Miloševa 29-II, tel. +382 20 23 05 45, fax +382 20 Q 22Open 09:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Slovenia K-1, Atinska 41, tel. +382 20 61 81 50, 04 93, [email protected], www.pkcg.org. fax +382 20 65 56 71, [email protected], www.podgorica.embassy.si. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Suljević E-2, Slobode 63/3, tel. +382 69 01 42 58. Turkey J-3, Radosava Burića bb, tel. +382 20 44 57 00, Q Open11:00- 18:00, Sat 11:00- 14:00. ClosedSun. fax +382 20 44 57 77, [email protected]. Q Open 10:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ukraine C-1, Serdara Jola Piletića 15, tel. +382 20 22 75 21, fax +382 20 22 71 81, [email protected], Many consulates have been converted into embassies www.mfa.gov.ua/montenegro. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00. since Montenegro’s independence, though not all Closed offer Sat, Sun. United Arab Emirates A-2, Bul Svetog Petra Cetinjskog consular services, referring to the larger embassies in tel. Serbia. A full list of embassies in Belgrade can be 147, found at +382 20 41 14 01, fax +382 20 41 14 02. www.belgrade.inyourpocket.com. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. United Kingdom K-1, Ulcinjska 8, Gorica C, tel. +382 Albania K-3, Stanka Dragojevića 14, tel. +382 20 66 20 61 80 10, fax +382 20 61 80 20, [email protected]. 73 80, fax +382 20 66 73 81, embassy.podgorica@mfa. uk, www.ukinmontenegro.fco.gov.uk. Q Open 08:30 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. gov.al. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ad agencies

Banks

Beauty & Wellness

Business connections Dentists

Foreign representations

Podgorica In Your Pocket

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

43

45

USA B/C-3, Ljubljanska bb, tel. +382 20 41 05 00,

fax +382 20 24 13 58, [email protected], http://podgorica.usembassy.gov. Visits by appointment only.

Hairdressers

Zoran (Kuća Mode i Ljepote) D-2, Njegoševa 29,

tel. +382 20 66 56 46, www.frizerzoran.co.me. Unisex hairdresser. Five other outlets in Podgorica. Q Open 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun.

Hospitals & Clinics

Codra Medica J-3, Radosava Burića bb, tel. +382

20 64 83 34/+382 20 64 83 35, fax +382 20 64 89 69, [email protected]. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Klinički Centar Crne Gore A-3, Ljubljanska bb, tel. +382 20 41 24 12, fax +382 20 22 52 84.

International organisations

European Union Delegation E-3, Vuka Karadžića 12,

tel. +382 20 44 46 00, fax +382 20 44 46 66, [email protected], www.delmne.ec.europa.eu. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. OSCE C-2, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 1a, tel. +382 20 40 64 01, fax +382 20 40 64 31, [email protected], www. osce.org/montenegro. Q Open 08:30 - 17:00.

Sports City Cyber E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 (Mall of

Lawyers

Montenegro), tel. +382 69 75 72 42. A virtual shooting range with guns and virtual targets. 10 shots for €1. Ćupić C-2, Svetozara Markovića 19, tel. +382 20 24 83 77, City Stadium (Gradski stadion) E-1, Vaka [email protected]. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Djurovića 2/14b, tel. +382 20 66 42 94. The city-Prelević E-2, Bul Svetog Petra Cetinjskog bb, tel. +382 20 23 23 48, fax +382 20 23 23 58, [email protected], www. centre football stadium is used by the local Budućnost prelevic.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. football club and Montenegro’s national team. Q Tickets up to €8. Ekaterina Gym E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 (Mall of Montenegro), tel. +382 69 21 41 87. QOpen Town Hall (Opština) D-2, Njegoševa 13, tel. +382 20 66 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Montenegro Squash Centar K-3, Put Radomira 50 77, fax +382 20 66 50 42, [email protected], www. podgorica.me. Podgorica’s mayor is Dr. Miomir Mugoša. Ivanovića bb, tel. +382 20 65 83 40, [email protected], www.montenegrosquash.com. A modern squash centre with 2 courts as well as aerobic, pilates and yoga sessions. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Planet Bowling E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 Monokl E-2, Vijenac Kosovskih Junaka 1, tel. +382 20 (Mall of Montenegro), tel. +382 20 62 47 98. A21 92 09/+382 20 21 92 10, [email protected]. Podgorica, Blok V Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. new bowling centre with 12 bowling lanes, 12 pool tables, a café/restaurant and video games. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Bowling €3.50-4 per game. Pool tables €7/hr. Sportski Centar Morača C-3, Ivana Milutinovića Vita E-2, Vuka Karadžića 4, tel. +382 20 23 10 07/+382 bb, tel. +382 20 24 43 26/+382 20 20 18 00, 20 23 09 96. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. [email protected]. The pride of the nation. The indoor arena with 4,200 seats is the largest in the country, and there’s also two large outdoor swimming CENTURY 21 Capital Real Estate Bulevar Džordža pools and a gym. Tennis Club NEC C-3, Ivana Milutinovića bb (SC Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20 40 98 22, fax +382 20 40 Morača), tel. +382 20 2 4 44 44, tknec@t-com. 98 08, off[email protected], www.c21cre.me. Responsible me. for the new Atlas Century development in Novi Grad. Q XL Sport Studio F-4, Mitra Bakića bb, tel. +382 20 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 62 45 60, [email protected], www.xlsportstu-KIPS Real Estate Neznanih Junaka 143, tel. +382 20 44 23 00, fax +382 20 44 23 02, [email protected], www. dio.me. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. kips.co.me. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

QOpen09:00- 22:00, Sun09:00- 20:00.

Municipality Opticians

Pharmacies Real estate

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

November 2010 - April 2011

44

direCtory

direCtory Accountants & Auditors

Austria D-4, Kralja Nikole 104, tel. +382 20 60 15

80, fax +382 20 62 43 44, [email protected]. @tic+ A-2, Rimski trg (Poslovni centar Kruševac), tel./ Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bosnia & Herzegovina K-1, Atinska 58, tel. +382 20 fax +382 20 23 40 73, [email protected]. Q Open 08:00 61 80 15, fax +382 20 61 80 16, amb.podgorica@mvp. - 21:00. Closed Sun. gov.ba. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bulgaria K-1, Vukice Mitrovića 10, tel. +382 20 65 50 09, fax +382 20 65 50 08, [email protected]. Incognito E-2, Hercegovačka 31, tel. +382 20 66 77 Q Open 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. China J-3, Radosava Burića 4a, tel. +382 20 60 92 25, [email protected], www.incognito.co.me. 75, fax +382 20 60 92 96, [email protected]. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Mapa E-1, 19 Decembra 3 (City Stadium), tel. +382 20 Q Open08:30- 15:00. Croatia G-1, Vladimira Ćetkovića 2, tel. +382 20 26 97 66 42 82, fax +382 20 66 42 85, [email protected], www. mapa.co.me. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 60, fax +382 20 26 98 10, croemb.podgorica@mvpei. Montimprex C-4, Crnogorskih serdara bb, tel. +382 20 hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. France K-1, Atinska 35, tel. +382 20 65 53 48, fax 60 14 20, [email protected], www.montimprex. +382 20 65 56 43, [email protected], co.me. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Strawberry Montenegro J-1, Malo brdo N3/4-9, tel.www.ambafrance-me.org. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed +382 69 31 08 48, [email protected], www. Sat, Sun. Germany D-2, Hercegovačka 10, tel./fax +382 20 66 strawberry-mne.com. 72 85, [email protected], www.podgorica. diplo.de. Q Open 08.00 - 16.00, Fri 08.00 - 14.00. Closed Sat, Sun. Atlasmont Banka B-2, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 40 Greece K-1, Atinska 4, tel. +382 20 65 55 44, fax +382 79 16, fax +382 20 40 79 76, www.atlasmontbanka.com. 20 65 55 43, [email protected]. Q Open 08:30 - 15:30. Q Open08:00-16:00,Sat08:00-13:00.ClosedSun.Closed Sat, Sun. Hipotekarna Banka K-3, Josipa Broza Tita 67, tel.Hungary D-4, Kralja Nikole 104, tel. +382 20 60 29 +382 20 44 43 01, [email protected], www.hb.co. 10, fax +382 20 62 52 43, [email protected], www. me. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. mfa.gov.hu/emb/podgorica. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30. NLB Montenegrobanka D-1, Stanka Dragojevića 46,Closed Sat, Sun. Italy A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 83, tel. +382 20 23 tel. +382 20 40 20 00, fax 382 20 40 22 12, info@ montenegro-banka.com, www.nlb.me. Q Open 08:0046 - 61, fax +382 20 23 46 63, segreteria.podgorica@ 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. esteri.it, www.conspodgorica.esteri.it/ambasciaPodgorička Banka E-2, Novaka Miloševa 8a, tel. +382 ta_podgorica. Q Open 09.00 - 17.00, Fri 09.00 - 14.00. 20 40 51 00, fax +382 20 40 51 07, info.pgbanka@ Closed Sat, Sun. socgen.com, www.pgbanka.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.Macedonia E-2, Hercegovačka 49/3, tel. +382 20 66 74 15, fax +382 20 66 72 05, [email protected]. Closed Sat, Sun. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Poland K-3, Kozaračka 79, tel. +382 20 60 83 20, fax +382 20 65 85 81, [email protected]. Gala Wellness Club B-2, Moskovska 65, tel. +382 20 22 pl, www.podgorica.polemb.net. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. 84 13, www.wellnessclub.com. Q Open 13:00 - 21:00. P Closed Sat, Sun. Salon Orijente E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 Romania K-1, Vukice Mitrović 40, tel. +382 20 61 80 40, fax +382 20 65 50 81, ambs.romania.mne@t66 58 50, [email protected]. Holistic healing therapy with a wide range of massage techniques such Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, Wed 14:30 - 16:00. com.me. as Swedish, Ayurvedic, forearm, elbow, four hand,Closed foot and Sat, Sun. Russia Veliše Mugoše 1, tel. +382 20 27 24 60, fax sports. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PA +382 20 27 23 17, [email protected]. Q Open 08:00 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun. Serbia D-2, Hercegovačka 18, tel. +382 20 66 73 05, Chamber of Economy of Montenegro Novaka fax +382 20 66 43 01, [email protected]. Miloševa 29-II, tel. +382 20 23 05 45, fax +382 20 Q 22Open 09:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Slovenia K-1, Atinska 41, tel. +382 20 61 81 50, 04 93, [email protected], www.pkcg.org. fax +382 20 65 56 71, [email protected], www.podgorica.embassy.si. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Suljević E-2, Slobode 63/3, tel. +382 69 01 42 58. Turkey J-3, Radosava Burića bb, tel. +382 20 44 57 00, Q Open11:00- 18:00, Sat 11:00- 14:00. ClosedSun. fax +382 20 44 57 77, [email protected]. Q Open 10:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ukraine C-1, Serdara Jola Piletića 15, tel. +382 20 22 75 21, fax +382 20 22 71 81, [email protected], Many consulates have been converted into embassies www.mfa.gov.ua/montenegro. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00. since Montenegro’s independence, though not all Closed offer Sat, Sun. United Arab Emirates A-2, Bul Svetog Petra Cetinjskog consular services, referring to the larger embassies in tel. Serbia. A full list of embassies in Belgrade can be 147, found at +382 20 41 14 01, fax +382 20 41 14 02. www.belgrade.inyourpocket.com. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. United Kingdom K-1, Ulcinjska 8, Gorica C, tel. +382 Albania K-3, Stanka Dragojevića 14, tel. +382 20 66 20 61 80 10, fax +382 20 61 80 20, [email protected]. 73 80, fax +382 20 66 73 81, embassy.podgorica@mfa. uk, www.ukinmontenegro.fco.gov.uk. Q Open 08:30 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. gov.al. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ad agencies

Banks

USA B/C-3, Ljubljanska bb, tel. +382 20 41 05 00,

fax +382 20 24 13 58, [email protected], http://podgorica.usembassy.gov. Visits by appointment only.

Hairdressers

Zoran (Kuća Mode i Ljepote) D-2, Njegoševa 29,

tel. +382 20 66 56 46, www.frizerzoran.co.me. Unisex hairdresser. Five other outlets in Podgorica. Q Open 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun.

Hospitals & Clinics

Codra Medica J-3, Radosava Burića bb, tel. +382

20 64 83 34/+382 20 64 83 35, fax +382 20 64 89 69, [email protected]. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Klinički Centar Crne Gore A-3, Ljubljanska bb, tel. +382 20 41 24 12, fax +382 20 22 52 84.

International organisations

European Union Delegation E-3, Vuka Karadžića 12,

tel. +382 20 44 46 00, fax +382 20 44 46 66, [email protected], www.delmne.ec.europa.eu. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. OSCE C-2, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 1a, tel. +382 20 40 64 01, fax +382 20 40 64 31, [email protected], www. osce.org/montenegro. Q Open 08:30 - 17:00.

Sports City Cyber E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 (Mall of

Municipality

Business connections

Opticians

Dentists

Pharmacies

Foreign representations

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Lawyers

Montenegro), tel. +382 69 75 72 42. A virtual shooting range with guns and virtual targets. 10 shots for €1. Ćupić C-2, Svetozara Markovića 19, tel. +382 20 24 83 77, City Stadium (Gradski stadion) E-1, Vaka [email protected]. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Djurovića 2/14b, tel. +382 20 66 42 94. The city-Prelević E-2, Bul Svetog Petra Cetinjskog bb, tel. +382 20 23 23 48, fax +382 20 23 23 58, [email protected], www. centre football stadium is used by the local Budućnost prelevic.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. football club and Montenegro’s national team. Q Tickets up to €8. Ekaterina Gym E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 (Mall of Montenegro), tel. +382 69 21 41 87. QOpen Town Hall (Opština) D-2, Njegoševa 13, tel. +382 20 66 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Montenegro Squash Centar K-3, Put Radomira 50 77, fax +382 20 66 50 42, [email protected], www. podgorica.me. Podgorica’s mayor is Dr. Miomir Mugoša. Ivanovića bb, tel. +382 20 65 83 40, [email protected], www.montenegrosquash.com. A modern squash centre with 2 courts as well as aerobic, pilates and yoga sessions. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Planet Bowling E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 Monokl E-2, Vijenac Kosovskih Junaka 1, tel. +382 20 (Mall of Montenegro), tel. +382 20 62 47 98. A21 92 09/+382 20 21 92 10, [email protected]. Podgorica, Blok V Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. new bowling centre with 12 bowling lanes, 12 pool tables, a café/restaurant and video games. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Bowling €3.50-4 per game. Pool tables €7/hr. Sportski Centar Morača C-3, Ivana Milutinovića Vita E-2, Vuka Karadžića 4, tel. +382 20 23 10 07/+382 bb, tel. +382 20 24 43 26/+382 20 20 18 00, 20 23 09 96. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. [email protected]. The pride of the nation. The indoor arena with 4,200 seats is the largest in the country, and there’s also two large outdoor swimming CENTURY 21 Capital Real Estate Bulevar Džordža pools and a gym. Tennis Club NEC C-3, Ivana Milutinovića bb (SC Vašingtona bb, tel. +382 20 40 98 22, fax +382 20 40 Morača), tel. +382 20 2 4 44 44, tknec@t-com. 98 08, off[email protected], www.c21cre.me. Responsible me. for the new Atlas Century development in Novi Grad. Q XL Sport Studio F-4, Mitra Bakića bb, tel. +382 20 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 62 45 60, [email protected], www.xlsportstu-KIPS Real Estate Neznanih Junaka 143, tel. +382 20 44 23 00, fax +382 20 44 23 02, [email protected], www. dio.me. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. kips.co.me. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

QOpen09:00- 22:00, Sun09:00- 20:00.

Beauty & Wellness

Podgorica In Your Pocket

45

Real estate

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

Read the In Your Pocket guides to Podgorica, Budva, Kotor, Cetinj and Lake Skadar online free at www.montenegro.inyourpocket.com.

November 2010 - April 2011

Read the In Your Pocket guides to Podgorica, Budva, Kotor, Cetinj and Lake Skadar online free at www.montenegro.inyourpocket.com.

50

index Adria Airways 39 Jat Airways 39 Ćupić 45 Airtours 39 Jevrić Centar 43 Dali 18 Alan Ford 23 Kamelija Shopping Delta Car 36 Alexandar Business Centar 31 Delta City 43 Centar 43 Karađorđe Petrović De Lux 36 Ambasador 12 Monument 26 DHL 40 And1 23 Karađorđev Park 28 Dialogue 18 Apart Hotel Premier 12 Karampana Fountain 30 Diesel 42 Art Café 16 Karver 11, 22, 40, 41 Dion 18 Astoria 29 Kerber 14 Doclea 26 Atlas Tours 39 Keto 13 Duet 18 Austrian Airlines 39 KIC Budo Tomović 11 Duhovni Centar 19 Albania 44 43 DVD Sport Open Trade 42Kids' Land Atlasmont Banka 44 King Nikola Petrović Dvor 20 Austria 44 Monument 26 Elite 36 Baby Trend 1 43 Klinički Centar Crne Gore Eminent 13 Bambis 12 Kompas 38 Enci Menci 43 Banja Cultural Centre11 Kosta's 13 Ermenegildo Zegna 42 Bastion 30 Krisma 18 Esprit 42 Benneton 42 Kubura 14 Europe 34 Beretta 42 Kužina 20 European Union Best Western Premier12 La Buena Vida 20 Delegation 45 Bilijar Club 23 Lacoste 42 Evropa 14, 36 Bird of Peace 26 Laguna 14 Express Restoran 21 Blues Bar 20 La Pasteria 30 Fab Live 22 Boćara 23 Laterna 20 FedEx 40 Bocun 25 Leonardo 19 Forma 19 Bojatours 12 Leone 21 Forza Lux 29 Bosnia & Herzegovina 44 L'Ombelico 24 Foto Boni 43 British Council 11 Long Road 19 Foto Nikić Digital 43 Buda Bar 23 Lovćen 14 Foto Riva 40 Budva Fortress 35 Lupo di Mare 16 France 44 Bulgaria 44 Maestral 32 French Cultural Centre 11 Café Mozart 34 Main Post Office 40 Gorbis 39 Camelot 23 Malev 39 Gorica Forest Park 28 Carine Centar 18 Mall of Montenegro 43 Gossip 18 Carine Restoran 18 Mamut 41 Gradska Knjižara 41 Casino Cattaro 30 Manual 42 Grand 39 Cathedral of the Marija 29 Green Garden 24 Resurrection 27 Marina Rinaldi 42 Germany 44 Cattaro 29 Maritime Museum 31 Greece 44 Centar Milenium 43 Maršal 18 GSM Planet 43 Cesare 30 Maša 16 Habitat 42 Chamber of Economy of Maxim 22 Haos 42 Montenegro 44 Maximus 30 Havana Cigar Shop 43 China 44 Max Prestige 34 Hemingway 34 Church of the Holy Heart ofHighland Meridian 29, 38 24 Jesus 27 Miki 41 Hipotekarna Banka 44 City 12, 36 Millennium Bridge 27 Holiday 14 Clock Tower 28, 30 Mimi 16 Hong Kong 35 Codra Medica 45 Mint Club 24 Hungary 44 Colombia 16 Mona Lisa 19 Iana 42 Costa Coffee 22 Montenegro Airlines 39 Ideal 14, 38 Crna Gora Bar 23 Montenegro Mountain Il Giardino 19 Crna Gora Café 22 Adventures 39 Incognito 44 Crna Gora Casino 25 Montenomaks 40 Inpek 18 Crna Gora Restaurant16 m:tel 40 Inter City 23 Croatia 44 Macedonia 44 Irish Pub Saint Patrick 24 Croatia Airlines 39 Mapa 44 Italy 44 Culto 24 Mex Centar Pharmacy 45 Ivana Milutinovića Park 28

Monokl 45 Six 42 Montimprex 44 Skadarlija 21 National Library 11 Školijera 16 National Theatre 11 S&L Monte 43 Natural History Museum 28 S. Oliver 42 Navigare 42 Salon Orijente 44 Nero 22 Serbia 44 Nice Vice 23 Slovenia 44 Nijagara 20 Sonata 20 Nikola'S 42 Splendid 32 Njegošev Park 28 Splendido 29 NLB Montenegrobanka 44 Stara Kuća 21 OGP 23 Stari Mlini 30 Old town 28 Stari Sat 18 Opera 18 St. George's Church 27 45 Orsay 42 St. Mary's Church 31 OSCE 45 St. Nicholas' Church 31 Oviesse 42 St Petar Cetinjski Pal Zileri 42 Monument 26 Partizan Memorial 26 St. Triphon's Cathedral 31 Paul & Shark 42 Sveti Nikola Island 35 Petar II Petrović Njegoš Sv. Jovan Vladimir 41 Monument 26 Tagor 41 Philia 13 Tally Weijl 42 Piramida 14 Telenor 40 Podgorica 13 Terranova 42 Podgorica Museum 28 The Bomb 26 Podgoričanka 43 The Market 25 Podgorička Banka 44 The Nag's Head 24 Pod Volat 20 Titograd 22 Poland 44 Tivat Airport 39 Porto 25 T-Mobile 40 Prague 22 TNT 40 President 36 Tourism Board of PS Fashion 42 Podgorica 5 Pub 111 24 Tourist Information Queen of Montenegro32 Office 29 Red Line 36 Tourist Organisation of Rembrandt 22 Budva 34 Renault 38 Trendy 22 Rendez Vous 29 Tri Ribara 35 Rene 14 Turkish Airlines 39 Replay 42 Turkish Bathhouse 28 Ribnica Bridge 28 Ukraine 44 Ribnica Fortress 28 United Kingdom 44 Risan Mosaics 31 UPS 40 Riter 25 USA 45 RM Centar 43 Vardar 29 Roda Market 42 Velvet 25 Rokšped 38 Venom 20 Romania 44 Villa Duomo 29 Royal 36 Vinoteka 25 Russia 44 Vladimir Vysotsky Šajo 34 Monument 26 Sarajka 20 Voda u Kršu 16 Šarović 14 WWW Club 40 Sempre 19 XYZ 42 Shanghai 16 Zabjelo 20 Shass 25 Zeleni Gaj 35 Sidro 21 Zoran 45

Street index for the Podgorica city maps on pp.47-49 13 jula B/D-1 Četvrte Proleterske F-2 19 decembar E-1 Crnogorskih serdara C/D-4 4 jula J-3 Dalmatinska H-1 8 marta A/C-4 Đečevića E/F-3, F-4 Atinska K-1 Dječja ulica B-3 Balšića E-2/3 Džan E-4 Beogradska E/F-1, F-2 Goce Delčeva K-2 Beogradska K-1 Gojka Radonjića D-3 Bjelopoljska G-1 Hercegovačka D/E-2 Bokeška D/E-2 Hotska F-3/4 Boška Buhe G-1 Ikeše Đurovića D-3 Bracana Bracanovića J-3 Ivana Milutinovića C-2/3 Branka Deletića G-2 Ivana Vujoševića B-2/3 Bratstva i Jedinstva E-3/4, D-4 Josipa Broza-Tita K-3 Bulevar Džordža Vašingtona A-1/4 Jovana Tomaševića C-1/2, D-1 Bulevar Ivana Crnojevića D-1, E-1/2,Karađorđeva F-2 D-2 Bulevar Mihaila Lalića G-1 Kralja Nikole D-3 Bulevar revolucije A-2, B-2/3 Kraljevačka K-3 Bulevar Save Kovačevića J-3 Kučka F-3 Bulevar Svetog Petra Cetinjskog Ljubljanska A-3 A-1, B/C-2, D-2/3, E-3 Ljubljanska B-3 Buta Lekića E/F-3 Ljubović C/D-4 Cara Lazara K-3 Luke Boljevića D-4 Cetinjski puta G-2 Marka Miljanova E-2/3

Podgorica In Your Pocket

Meše Selimovića G-1/2 Miljana Vukova E-2 Mirka Banjevića K-3 Mirka Vešovića E-3/4 Mitra Bakića E-4 Mojkovačka K-2 Moskovska A-2/3, B-1, B-1 Mušikića F-3 Nemanjića D-3 Nikca od Rovina H-1 Njegoševa D-2 Novaka Miloševa E-2 Obala Ribnice E-2/3 Oktobarske revolucije D/E-4 Omera Avdovića F-3/4 Omladinskih brigada F-2/3 Petra Prlje C/D-4 Prolaz Jovana Cvijića A-1 Prve Proleterske K-1 Radoja Jovanovića C-3/4 Radosava Burića J-3 Rista Stijovića F-1/-2 Šarkića F-3 Sava Lubarde C-4, D-3/4

Serdara Jola Piletića C-1 Serdara Jola Piletića J-1 Skopska K-1 Slobode E-2, D-3 Spasa Nikolića D-3 Špira Mugoše C/D-3 Stanka Dragojevića D-1/2 Steva Kraljevića E-4 Studentska G-2 Svetozara Markovića C-1/2, B-2 Trg Božane Vučinić D/E-3 Trg Golootočkih žrtava F-4 Trg Republike E-2 Trg vojvode Bećir-bega Osmanagića D-3 Vaka Đurovića D/E-1 Vasa Raičkovića B/C-1 Velimira Terzića A-1 Vlada Martinovića F-3/4 Vojisavljevića G-3 Vojvode Ilije Plamenca H-3 Vučedolska C/D-2 Vuka Karadžića E-2/3 Vukosava Grujića K-3 Žrtava fašizma K-2

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

50

index Adria Airways 39 Jat Airways 39 Ćupić 45 Airtours 39 Jevrić Centar 43 Dali 18 Alan Ford 23 Kamelija Shopping Delta Car 36 Alexandar Business Centar 31 Delta City 43 Centar 43 Karađorđe Petrović De Lux 36 Ambasador 12 Monument 26 DHL 40 And1 23 Karađorđev Park 28 Dialogue 18 Apart Hotel Premier 12 Karampana Fountain 30 Diesel 42 Art Café 16 Karver 11, 22, 40, 41 Dion 18 Astoria 29 Kerber 14 Doclea 26 Atlas Tours 39 Keto 13 Duet 18 Austrian Airlines 39 KIC Budo Tomović 11 Duhovni Centar 19 Albania 44 43 DVD Sport Open Trade 42Kids' Land Atlasmont Banka 44 King Nikola Petrović Dvor 20 Austria 44 Monument 26 Elite 36 Baby Trend 1 43 Klinički Centar Crne Gore Eminent 13 Bambis 12 Kompas 38 Enci Menci 43 Banja Cultural Centre11 Kosta's 13 Ermenegildo Zegna 42 Bastion 30 Krisma 18 Esprit 42 Benneton 42 Kubura 14 Europe 34 Beretta 42 Kužina 20 European Union Best Western Premier12 La Buena Vida 20 Delegation 45 Bilijar Club 23 Lacoste 42 Evropa 14, 36 Bird of Peace 26 Laguna 14 Express Restoran 21 Blues Bar 20 La Pasteria 30 Fab Live 22 Boćara 23 Laterna 20 FedEx 40 Bocun 25 Leonardo 19 Forma 19 Bojatours 12 Leone 21 Forza Lux 29 Bosnia & Herzegovina 44 L'Ombelico 24 Foto Boni 43 British Council 11 Long Road 19 Foto Nikić Digital 43 Buda Bar 23 Lovćen 14 Foto Riva 40 Budva Fortress 35 Lupo di Mare 16 France 44 Bulgaria 44 Maestral 32 French Cultural Centre 11 Café Mozart 34 Main Post Office 40 Gorbis 39 Camelot 23 Malev 39 Gorica Forest Park 28 Carine Centar 18 Mall of Montenegro 43 Gossip 18 Carine Restoran 18 Mamut 41 Gradska Knjižara 41 Casino Cattaro 30 Manual 42 Grand 39 Cathedral of the Marija 29 Green Garden 24 Resurrection 27 Marina Rinaldi 42 Germany 44 Cattaro 29 Maritime Museum 31 Greece 44 Centar Milenium 43 Maršal 18 GSM Planet 43 Cesare 30 Maša 16 Habitat 42 Chamber of Economy of Maxim 22 Haos 42 Montenegro 44 Maximus 30 Havana Cigar Shop 43 China 44 Max Prestige 34 Hemingway 34 Church of the Holy Heart ofHighland Meridian 29, 38 24 Jesus 27 Miki 41 Hipotekarna Banka 44 City 12, 36 Millennium Bridge 27 Holiday 14 Clock Tower 28, 30 Mimi 16 Hong Kong 35 Codra Medica 45 Mint Club 24 Hungary 44 Colombia 16 Mona Lisa 19 Iana 42 Costa Coffee 22 Montenegro Airlines 39 Ideal 14, 38 Crna Gora Bar 23 Montenegro Mountain Il Giardino 19 Crna Gora Café 22 Adventures 39 Incognito 44 Crna Gora Casino 25 Montenomaks 40 Inpek 18 Crna Gora Restaurant16 m:tel 40 Inter City 23 Croatia 44 Macedonia 44 Irish Pub Saint Patrick 24 Croatia Airlines 39 Mapa 44 Italy 44 Culto 24 Mex Centar Pharmacy 45 Ivana Milutinovića Park 28

Monokl 45 Six 42 Montimprex 44 Skadarlija 21 National Library 11 Školijera 16 National Theatre 11 S&L Monte 43 Natural History Museum 28 S. Oliver 42 Navigare 42 Salon Orijente 44 Nero 22 Serbia 44 Nice Vice 23 Slovenia 44 Nijagara 20 Sonata 20 Nikola'S 42 Splendid 32 Njegošev Park 28 Splendido 29 NLB Montenegrobanka 44 Stara Kuća 21 OGP 23 Stari Mlini 30 Old town 28 Stari Sat 18 Opera 18 St. George's Church 27 45 Orsay 42 St. Mary's Church 31 OSCE 45 St. Nicholas' Church 31 Oviesse 42 St Petar Cetinjski Pal Zileri 42 Monument 26 Partizan Memorial 26 St. Triphon's Cathedral 31 Paul & Shark 42 Sveti Nikola Island 35 Petar II Petrović Njegoš Sv. Jovan Vladimir 41 Monument 26 Tagor 41 Philia 13 Tally Weijl 42 Piramida 14 Telenor 40 Podgorica 13 Terranova 42 Podgorica Museum 28 The Bomb 26 Podgoričanka 43 The Market 25 Podgorička Banka 44 The Nag's Head 24 Pod Volat 20 Titograd 22 Poland 44 Tivat Airport 39 Porto 25 T-Mobile 40 Prague 22 TNT 40 President 36 Tourism Board of PS Fashion 42 Podgorica 5 Pub 111 24 Tourist Information Queen of Montenegro32 Office 29 Red Line 36 Tourist Organisation of Rembrandt 22 Budva 34 Renault 38 Trendy 22 Rendez Vous 29 Tri Ribara 35 Rene 14 Turkish Airlines 39 Replay 42 Turkish Bathhouse 28 Ribnica Bridge 28 Ukraine 44 Ribnica Fortress 28 United Kingdom 44 Risan Mosaics 31 UPS 40 Riter 25 USA 45 RM Centar 43 Vardar 29 Roda Market 42 Velvet 25 Rokšped 38 Venom 20 Romania 44 Villa Duomo 29 Royal 36 Vinoteka 25 Russia 44 Vladimir Vysotsky Šajo 34 Monument 26 Sarajka 20 Voda u Kršu 16 Šarović 14 WWW Club 40 Sempre 19 XYZ 42 Shanghai 16 Zabjelo 20 Shass 25 Zeleni Gaj 35 Sidro 21 Zoran 45

Street index for the Podgorica city maps on pp.47-49 13 jula B/D-1 Četvrte Proleterske F-2 19 decembar E-1 Crnogorskih serdara C/D-4 4 jula J-3 Dalmatinska H-1 8 marta A/C-4 Đečevića E/F-3, F-4 Atinska K-1 Dječja ulica B-3 Balšića E-2/3 Džan E-4 Beogradska E/F-1, F-2 Goce Delčeva K-2 Beogradska K-1 Gojka Radonjića D-3 Bjelopoljska G-1 Hercegovačka D/E-2 Bokeška D/E-2 Hotska F-3/4 Boška Buhe G-1 Ikeše Đurovića D-3 Bracana Bracanovića J-3 Ivana Milutinovića C-2/3 Branka Deletića G-2 Ivana Vujoševića B-2/3 Bratstva i Jedinstva E-3/4, D-4 Josipa Broza-Tita K-3 Bulevar Džordža Vašingtona A-1/4 Jovana Tomaševića C-1/2, D-1 Bulevar Ivana Crnojevića D-1, E-1/2,Karađorđeva F-2 D-2 Bulevar Mihaila Lalića G-1 Kralja Nikole D-3 Bulevar revolucije A-2, B-2/3 Kraljevačka K-3 Bulevar Save Kovačevića J-3 Kučka F-3 Bulevar Svetog Petra Cetinjskog Ljubljanska A-3 A-1, B/C-2, D-2/3, E-3 Ljubljanska B-3 Buta Lekića E/F-3 Ljubović C/D-4 Cara Lazara K-3 Luke Boljevića D-4 Cetinjski puta G-2 Marka Miljanova E-2/3

Podgorica In Your Pocket

Meše Selimovića G-1/2 Miljana Vukova E-2 Mirka Banjevića K-3 Mirka Vešovića E-3/4 Mitra Bakića E-4 Mojkovačka K-2 Moskovska A-2/3, B-1, B-1 Mušikića F-3 Nemanjića D-3 Nikca od Rovina H-1 Njegoševa D-2 Novaka Miloševa E-2 Obala Ribnice E-2/3 Oktobarske revolucije D/E-4 Omera Avdovića F-3/4 Omladinskih brigada F-2/3 Petra Prlje C/D-4 Prolaz Jovana Cvijića A-1 Prve Proleterske K-1 Radoja Jovanovića C-3/4 Radosava Burića J-3 Rista Stijovića F-1/-2 Šarkića F-3 Sava Lubarde C-4, D-3/4

Serdara Jola Piletića C-1 Serdara Jola Piletića J-1 Skopska K-1 Slobode E-2, D-3 Spasa Nikolića D-3 Špira Mugoše C/D-3 Stanka Dragojevića D-1/2 Steva Kraljevića E-4 Studentska G-2 Svetozara Markovića C-1/2, B-2 Trg Božane Vučinić D/E-3 Trg Golootočkih žrtava F-4 Trg Republike E-2 Trg vojvode Bećir-bega Osmanagića D-3 Vaka Đurovića D/E-1 Vasa Raičkovića B/C-1 Velimira Terzića A-1 Vlada Martinovića F-3/4 Vojisavljevića G-3 Vojvode Ilije Plamenca H-3 Vučedolska C/D-2 Vuka Karadžića E-2/3 Vukosava Grujića K-3 Žrtava fašizma K-2

www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com

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