Pigmenti kdkkfjPerlescenti

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects! Elena Nunno  Account Manager Cosmetic Cosmetic Merck KGAA

Perlescent Pigments: daily used….

Perlescent Pigments: daily used….

Cosmetic Colorants

Dyes (Colorants)

Color Pigments

Soluble in the application medium; transparent

Insoluble in the application medium; opaque

D&CRed#21 D&CRed#27 D&COrange#5

Color Pigments Al/Ba/Ca Lakes FD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake (CI 19140:1) D&C Red 27 Al Lake (CI 45410:2) D&C Orange 5 Al Lake (CI 45370:2) D&C Red 6 Ba Lake (CI 15858:2) D&C Red 7 Ca Lake (CI 15850:1)

Colorants

Color Pigments Insoluble in the application medium;

D&C Red 36 (CI 12085) D&C Orange #17 (CI 12075) D&C RED#30 (CI73360)

opaque

Inorganics Pigments Colored Iron Oxides Chromium Dioxide Ultramarines Manganese Violet Ferric Ferrocyanide Ferrocyanide

White Titanium Dioxide Zinc Oxide

Pearl pigments

Color Pigments: Interactions with Light optical effects Perlescent Pigments

Metallic Colors: silver E174 gold E175

Absorption Colors: titanium dioxide E171 iron oxide E172 carbon black E153 insoluble color lakes

pearl effect results from: reflection, refraction, interference, transmission

metallic gloss (mirror effect) caused by total reflection of light in a certain angle

light absorption and undirected reflection

Perlescent Pigments: Composition and Characteristics

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Composition

- transparent and inert color carrier  - metal oxides like titanium dioxide and/or iron oxides - e.g. plus organic/inorganic organic/inorganic colorants

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Particle size

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Thickness

- 5 - 200 µm diam diamete eter  r 

- approx. approx. 0.1 - 0.5 µm (crude (crude silicat silicate) e)

Characteristics of Pearl Pigments

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Layer-substrate pigments = even platelets 

Substrate: Mica (SiO2-Flakes, Ca-Al-Borosilicate-Flakes, Al2O3-Flakes, Synthetic Mica)

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Inorganic coating:

Titanium Dioxide Iron Oxides Chromium Oxide

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Organic coating:

Carmine Ferric Ferrocyanide

Metal oxide substrate

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (I)

Incident Light

Proteins CaCO3

Reflection path through CaCO3 and proteins layers of a natural pearl

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (II)

To obtain the pearl effect: - Semi Semi tra trans nspa pare rent nt mate materia riall - Smoo Smooth th and and pla plane ne surf surfac ace e - Refrac Refractive tive index index diffe differen rentt from from the medi medium um - Light!

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (III)

soap bubble

air: n = 1

air: n = 1 water „layer“, stabilized by tensides n = 1.3

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (IV)

Interference colors are based on refractive index and thickness of materials

Refractive index

Color shift

Oil film on water

Water: Oil:

1,33 > 1,33

Thickness deviation

Interference colors

Pearlescent Luster 

Incident light

Metal oxide layer 

Multiple reflection Pearl like effect

Substrate

Transmitted light

SEM Picture of Mica Based Pigments

potassium aluminium silicate/ mica (E555)

titanium dioxide (E171) and/or  iron oxide (E172)

Substrates

Natural

Synthetic

Mica

Synthetic Mica

Silica

 Alumina

Glass

Classic/wide use Hiding power 

Transparency

Color  Travel

Sparkle Performance

Transparency Gloss

Muscovite Mica

Pearl Luster Pigments Manufacturing Process

milling natural silicate, mica (E555)

classification particle size: 50µm (as coarse as possible)

Merck’s Brands

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Timiron ® 

Silverwhite & interference pigments

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Colorona ® 

Pearlescence plus absorption equals color  (Gold, Color Luster, Metallic Color, Two-Tone, Mica Black)

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Xirona ® 

Brilliant Color Travel pigments

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Ronastar  ® 

Pigments with high chroma, sophisticated effects and clean mass tone