Perfumerflavorist201409 Dl

Biotechnology-derived ingredients, mountain savory oil, flavor and fragrance materials, and more.

September 2014 vol. 39 no.9

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Naturals in F&F

plus 2014 WPC recap Global perfumery summit cis-Jasmone in flavors

Naturally, he enjoys the delicious flavor of safe ingredients. Consumers are increasingly asking for ingredients that not only taste good, but are safe. To successfully meet the growing demand, your formulations must contain the perfect combination of high-quality ingredients you can trust. Sigma-Aldrich has developed a broad selection of certified Natural flavors and fragrances with you and your customers in mind. Our Natural aroma raw materials have been quality tested and come with easily accessible third party validation. Visit our website to search for Natural flavor ingredients. It’s safe to say you’ll like it.

sigma-aldrich.com/flavors-fragrances

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VOL. 39 SEPTEMBER 2014 ON THIS MONTH’S COVER This month, P&F explores naturals in F&F, including biotechnology-derived natural ingredients (Page 32), mountain savory oil (Page 68), and flavor and fragrance materials from various sources (Pages 26 and 66).

Flavor

Ingredients

30

cis-Jasmone John Wright This ingredient excels in fruit flavors, adding a level of depth, realism and complexity that has few rivals.

26

Raw Material Bulletin Passion fruit aroma, cinnamyl acetate, Karmawood, dimethyl sulfide and more.

66

Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials Judith Michalski Methyl laurate, ethyl phenylacetate, 2-octanone, isophorone and more.

32

Biotechnology Enters Its Next Phase Recent ingredient launches signal increasing complexity of biotechnologically derived flavor and fragrance materials.

68

Progress in Essential Oils Brian M. Lawrence Mountain savory oil.

Fragrance 38

56

2014 World Perfumery Congress Addresses Rapid Changes Impacting Global Industry Victoria Frolova Focused on regulations, innovation, sustainability and new markets, the WPC provided inspiration for the industry’s creative minds. International Perfumer Meeting: Enhancing the Recognition of Perfumery Worldwide The first meeting of the international societies of perfumers, held at the 2014 World Perfumery Congress, addressed global cooperation to support perfumery.

58

2014 World Perfumery Congress Exhibition News & Notes Photos and company news from the exhibition floor.

80

The Last Word: Honoring Contributions to Perfumer Societies & Perfumery

online this month

Events Photos, coverage and calendar

Industry 6 8 25 77 79

Editor’s Note: Perfumery, Acquisitions & More Industry: News, Events and Analysis Events Worldwide Sources Ad Index

www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

News: P&F Newsletter Weekly digest of news, trends and analysis

People Photos, events and news

LinkedIn® Connect and network

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Vol. 39 • September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist

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Green Renessenz delivers L-Carvone from a proprietary process that can truly be described as green. A major benefit of the unique Renessenz process, compared with traditional methods, is the elimination of eight million liters of waste water for every one million kilograms of L-Carvone product made. In addition, our process blocks chlorides and compounds containing nitrogen from our L- Carvone product, making it free of solvents and toxic reagents. The green Renessenz L-Carvone process technology has delivered signifi ficcant market edge to our customers. Later processes of a similar nature can only copy the concept of our technolo ogy and patents. Contact: [email protected]

Only Renessenz offers ultra-pure L-Carvone with a 99.9% total concentration of L-Carvone and D-Dihydrocarvone from the most environmentally refined production process worldwide. www.renessenz.com

EDITORIAL Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor in Chief • 1-630-344-6069/[email protected] Brian M. Lawrence, Editor for Natural Products Nicole Urbanowicz, Associate Editor • 1-630-344-6053/[email protected] ADVERTISING SALES Paige Crist, Associate Publisher • 1-630-344-6060/[email protected] Kasia Smialkowski, Coordinator • 1-630-344-6025/[email protected] AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & MARKETING Laura Allured, Brand Specialist • 1-630-344-6041/[email protected] DESIGN DEPARTMENT Andrew Frederick, Design Manager Bryan Crowe, Production Manager Hon Bannapradist, Senior Graphic Designer CORPORATE Janet Ludwig, President Linda Getner, Controller Linda Schmitt, Director of Marketing Sandy Chapin, Group Show Director

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Vol. 39 • September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist

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Ø,QVSLUHGE\1DWXUHÙ www.mgessentialingredients.com

* Acetals * Schiff's Bases * Molecular Distilled Essential Oils * Terpenless Essential Oils * Various Gum Absolutes & Resinoids

MG Essential Ingredients aims to provide its customers highest quality products and service by producing special range of molecules which enables to create unique, stable and powerful fragrances.

Perfumery, Acquisitions & More

S

ummer is often the quiet period for the flavor and fragrance industry, but this past season proved the exception.

To begin, the 2014 World Perfumery Congress (WPC; coverage begins on Page 38), which hosted, among other things, the first global meeting of perfumer societies (Page 56) from France, England, Germany and the United States. I am very proud to have seen this cooperation come together and am excited to see what the organizations build in the coming months and years. We look forward to hosting the WPC (wpc.perfumerflavorist.com) again June 13–15, 2016, at the Fontainebleau Resort in Miami Beach, Florida, the U.S. gateway to Latin America. But first, of course, planning is already ramping up for Flavorcon (www.flavorcon.com), taking place November 15–17, 2015, at the Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa in Atlantic City, New Jersey. More updates are coming soon, so stay tuned. Meanwhile, following its initial listing on the Flavor & Fragrance Leaderboard,a Wild Flavors GmbH announced that it has been acquired by Archer Daniels Midland Co. (Read our exclusive interview with ADM Pictured at a cocktail reception following the first global meeting of perfumer societies at the 2014 World president Juan Luciano on Page 10). Perfumery Congress were, from left: Vincent Kuczinski (American Society of Perfumers [ASP]; Mane), The all-cash transaction, valued at Peter Whipps (president, British Society of Perfumers [BSP]), Maurice Roucel (Société Française des Parfumeurs [SFP]; Symrise), Kate Williams (BSP; Seven Scent), Raymond Chaillan (SFP), Sylvie Jourdet about e2.3 billion, signals a new phase (president of the SFP; Créassence), Chris Diienno (president of ASP; drom), Patrick Saint-Yves (SFP), in F&F acquisitions, and accompanies Anneliese Wilsch-Irrgang (Deutsche Gesellschaft der Parfümeure in der SEPAWA [DGP]; Henkel), John rumors of further activity. Look for Bailey (BSP), Jim Fassold (ASP; Robertet) and Jim Krivda (ASP; Mane). further reports as the story develops. Enjoy this issue and see you next month.

Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor in Chief [email protected] aJune

2014, Page 18; www.perfumerflavorist.com/magazine/pastissues/

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N AT W I S T

b eyond Nature

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Industry Site Visit: Renessenz Launches Sensory Applications Center The launch of Renessenz’s (Jacksonville, Florida) sensory applications center in Chicago is changing the relationship it has with clients. This new capability extends the company’s focus from the manufacture of aromatic ingredients, functional ingredients and cooling agents derived from natural, renewable sources, to the application of those ingredients in clients’ flavor, food, beverage, oral care and personal care systems. The move allows the company “to be an expert in our own ingredients and how they work in our customers’ finished products,” says Eric Beatty, president and general manager. Directly engaged with customers, the sensory applications team is able to answer questions and offer consultations on how ingredients are applied during the product development process, in addition to providing prototyping. At the same time, Renessenz is learning how customers develop products and how its ingredients are applied in a real-world environment, as well as identifying new applications for its coolants, including beverages. The company has spent the last year building out its sensory capabilities, says Theodore Butz, president and CEO of Pinova Holdings, Inc., the parent company of Renessenz and Pinova. (The company recently realigned its business unit structure toward three market-facing businesses. In addition to the sensory ingredients business, the company also features a fragrance ingredients business that manufactures terpene-based aroma chemicals for household goods, personal care and fine fragrances, and a performance specialties unit that markets resins to the adhesives, construction, tire and agriculture markets. The combined businesses have sales of more than $300 million, according to Pinova Holdings.) The organization of the company, in addition to the formation of the sensory applications team, signals a change in its go-to-market strategy, says Butz, expanding beyond its existing expertise in chemistry and processing.

Customer Innovation Needs In the current phase, the sensory applications group is exploring how its existing ingredients and technology can be used in products, but moving forward Butz anticipates the incorporation of niche technologies based on customer needs, as well as expansion of sensory activities to key global markets such as Asia. At

The launch of Renessenz’s (Jacksonville, Florida) sensory applications center in Chicago has changed its client relationships by expanding its focus on the manufacture of aromatic ingredients and cooling agents from natural, renewable sources, to the application of those ingredients in clients’ flavor, food, beverage, oral care and cosmetics systems.

the same time, he says there are additional functionalities for some of the company’s ingredients beyond cooling, such as flavor modification, which could create new avenues of application. Flavor, cosmetic and consumer product clients often have applications needs, a service not always provided by ingredient suppliers, says Beatty. Combining a technical understanding of the chemistry of materials and their application plugs a resource gap for customers, who are starved for ideas. Supported by sensory applications, customers are able to address issues directly with the supplier, customize solutions and be “a first mover” in their markets, according to Butz. Knowledge gained from further understanding of the functionality of products Renessenz produces is also helping the company to invigorate its innovation activities. This, according to sensory ingredients business director, Steve Pringle, is something which is vital to the medium- and long-term growth of the business. “The work in confectionery and beverage has allowed us to understand the requirements for future and current product demands,” says Pringle. “This has allowed Renessenz to engage in collaborative work with companies with enabling technologies which then allow us to meet the needs of an evolving market, as well as develop new materials in the sensory space.”

A Tour of the Lab

All applications systems behave differently. For instance, a coolant dosage for a gummy candy may vary significantly compared to a beverage, in part due to the total volume intake of one product versus the other.

During a recent visit to the sensory applications center, P&F met with David Sitko, Renessenz’s applications manager, who has experience in both the flavor and confectionery sectors, and Christine Jakes, applications technician. Sitko and Jakes provided a tour of the space, which includes a reception area, large conference room and office space, in addition the sensory applications lab.

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

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Industry

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Pictured in the reception and office area of the new sensory applications site are, from left: Christine Jakes, Renessenz; Jeb Gleason-Allured, Perfumer & Flavorist; and David Sitko, Renessenz.

The lab, which can work on projects at lab or pilot scale, can be used in the development of products such as gums, hard candy, mints and other confectionery, ice cream, oral care, and alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. Working on projects in the lab allows the company to gather insights into its clients’ processes, Sitko says, ensuring ingredients are used to maximum effect. This is particularly important for coolants because all applications systems behave differently. For instance, a coolant dosage for a gummy candy may vary significantly compared to a beverage, in part due to the total volume intake of one product versus the other. Real-world sensory applications work identifies and addresses these types of issues mid-process, says Sitko, allowing for fully optimized formulations. Working with clients’ bases in the lab allows the sensory applications team to assess how ingredients are used from a

Pictured in the lab, from left, are David Sitko, applications manager, Renessenz; Jeb Gleason-Allured, Perfumer & Flavorist; and Christine Jakes, applications technician, Renessenz. The lab, which can work on projects at lab or pilot scale, can be used in the development of products such as gums, hard candy, mints and other confectionery, ice cream, oral care, and alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages.

finished product sensory point of view, Sitko adds. This aids the team in understanding product facets such the solubility of coolants. According to Renessenz, this is just the beginning. Looking ahead, the sensory applications group will increase its knowledge of ingredient interactions, build its understanding of consumer needs in various global regions and expand its knowhow in areas including the effects of trigeminal molecules on perceptual experience. Partnering with customers, the group will also look at flavor, texture and other functional facets of products. The result, says Sitko, is that the company will become a partner with its customers, fostering closer collaboration, providing an information and formulation resource, and perhaps even co-development opportunities.

Decoding Food Odor Of the perhaps 10,000 known food volatiles, just three to, at most, 40 odorants are responsible for the “key signature” aroma of any given food.1 The total pool of these key odorants is just 230, according to the research recently published by former Flavorcon (www.flavorcon.com) speaker Peter Schieberle and his co-authors. “Advances in chemical trace analysis and post-genomic progress at the chemistry-biology interface revealed odor qualities of nature’s chemosensory entities to be defined by odorant-induced olfactory receptor activity patterns,” the authors note. The research, based on the meta-analysis of the available literature on odorants, could have potential application in the targeted formulation of flavors and fragrances, as well as the development of more accurate electronic noses. It may also show that the evolution of odorants and human odor receptors progressed in parallel. 1. A Dunkel, M Steinhaus, M Kotthoff, B Nowak, D Krautwurst, P Schieberle and T Hofmann, Nature’s Chemical Signatures in Human Olfaction: A Foodborne Perspective for Future Biotechnology. Angewandte Chemie International Edition, 53(28), 7124–7143 (2014) 9

First Person: ADM’s Juan Luciano on Wild Flavors Acquisition Boosting its flavor, beverage and innovation capabilities, Archer Daniels Midland (ADM) has acquired Wild Flavors GmbH in a transaction valued at $3.4 billion (e2.5 billion). The flavor company will be renamed Wild Flavors and Specialty Ingredients. The deal is expected to close by year’s end. Earlier media reports cited Ajinomoto and Symrise as potential buyers, though the option of an initial public offering was also reportedly under consideration. “I am very pleased by ADM’s acquisition of Wild Flavors and the future business we will build together,” said Hans-Peter Wild, chairman of Wild Flavors GmbH, at the time of the announcement. “Wild Flavors’ unique natural flavors strength and total systems approach will create a very strong and positive development platform within ADM for our customers as we continue to drive innovation in the food and beverage industry.” “Together, we will be uniquely positioned to offer a broad range of customers—from the largest CPG’s to fast-growing innovators—comprehensive systems-based solutions for food, beverage and personal care products,” said ADM chairman and CEO Patricia Woertz. “With our combined global networks, world-class research and innovation capabilities, Wild Flavors’ natural flavor systems, and ADM’s texture, nutrition and functional solutions, we will create an unmatched capability to respond to local consumer preferences and offer complete food solutions that taste great.”

A More Complete Supplier According to ADM president Juan Luciano, the Wild acquisition fits well into ADM’s existing health and nutrition specialties strategy, which includes platforms that address texture (texturizers), function (emulsifiers), nutrition (fiber and protein) and, now, flavor. The combined flavor and specialties business is worth about $2.5 billion, post transaction. According to ADM, the acquisition will produce estimated cost and revenue synergies of e100 million by the third year. “In order for us to continue our strategic growth plan with our key customers we needed to add flavor capabilities,” says Luciano. At the same time, he says, “We are mindful that flavor is not for newcomers. So even if we have the capabilities or the functionality to develop that [competency] on our own, it would have taken too long … plus we wanted the reputation of someone who had been doing this for [about] 80 years. With Wild, when this opportunity presented itself … we thought it was a perfect fit to complement our business.” Luciano says ADM will invest in the growth of Wild Flavors and Specialty Ingredients, while leveraging the strengths of both existing organizations. “Sometimes, for a company like Wild, in order to go into a market they have to establish themselves in that geography,” says Transaction value: $3.4 billion (e2.5 billion) Wild Flavors estimated 2014 net revenue: e1 billion ADM 2013 revenue: ~$90 billion ADM specialty (food and wellness) business combined sales: $2.5 billion (post transaction) 10

Industry

Boosting its flavor, beverage and innovation capabilities, Archer Daniels Midland (ADM) has acquired Wild Flavors GmbH in a transaction valued at $3.4 billion (e2.5 billion). The flavor company will be renamed Wild Flavors and Specialty Ingredients.

They [Wild] are stronger in beverage accounts, while we are probably stronger in some of the large food accounts. We can take their European business deeper into the food accounts and accelerate their penetration in North America. —Juan Luciano, president, ADM Luciano. “ADM is [situated] in many more countries—about twice as many. From that perspective, we offer [Wild] a platform to start from without having to build infrastructure.” Meanwhile, Wild delivers access to key market segments and geographies, in addition to the expertise of more than 400 scientists and applications development staff. In the last year the company acquired Alfrebro LLC, a manufacturer of natural extracts and aroma chemicals, and became a shareholder in the Brazilian corporation Amazon Flavors, a manufacturer of natural flavors, extracts, emulsions and compounds for Brazil’s beverage market. “They [Wild] are stronger in beverage accounts, while we are probably stronger in some of the large food accounts,” says Luciano. “We can take their European business deeper into the food accounts and accelerate their penetration in North America. Also, there are some markets that we are planning to target jointly, like food service, so combined we can significantly accelerate our revenue growth.” ADM’s grain business, food processing business and newly expanded specialty business provides it with what Luciano calls “full visibility” by connecting origination, processing, refining and distribution. Unlike its other units, Luciano says Wild Flavors and Specialty Ingredients “will be a business much more about innovation, specialties and customer intimacies.” As more food companies focus their expertise on their brands and channel management, suppliers like ADM increasingly provide those customers with origination, R&D, risk management, regulatory, innovation and even contract manufacturing services. “I think customers want somebody to bring the full system, the full solution,” says Luciano. “Now, with Wild … we can be a more complete supplier to our customers.”

Vol. 39 • September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist

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Not mint to be? Our flavor-neutral cooling NatCool-10 is for you… Naturally.

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WFFC Sensory Trend Excursion Offers a Taste of SoHo Next, Chobani SoHo (150 Prince St.) showed visitors that yogurt can be paired with a number of ingredients to create a sweet, and even savory, effect. At the SoHo concept store, which is currently the only storefront location in the country, the group tasted unique yogurt dish flavors such as cucumber & olive oil, which was served with pita chips and contained cucumber, extra virgin olive oil, fresh mint and sea salt. Hummus & za’atar was also served with pita chips and contained hummus, chickpeas, za’atar spice blend, extra virgin olive oil, lemon zest, sea salt and black pepper. Mango & avocado was served with blue corn tortilla chips and included mango, avocado, jalapeños, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, From left, back row: Christina Christie (Takasago), Doreen Smith (Yankee Candle), Lauren Ancona (IFF), fresh cilantro and lime juice. Zucchini pesto Amy Marks-McGee (Trendincite LLC), Catherine Armstrong (Comax Flavors), Nicole Urbanowicz (P&F Magazine), Florentina Cimpian (Charkit Chemical), Jeanine Pedersen (Takasago), Christa de Vinck (FFS), & tomato was served with pita chips and Nicole Isabella (Mane), Karen Adams (Sniffapalooza) and Darryl Do (Delbia Do); middle row, from left: contained zucchini pesto, roasted cherry Grace Khoury and Jeena James (both of Bell Flavors & Fragrances), Italina Schifino (IFF), Megan Nolan tomatoes, pine nuts, balsamic reduction, and Melissa Bliss (both of Allen Flavors), Kimberly Champon (L.A. Champon), Alpa Roman (FFS), Christina Parmesan crumbles, extra virgin olive oil, Smith (Virginia Dare), Molly Schwartz (Mane), Karen Dubin (Sniffapalooza), Marylou Rodriguez (Mane), Lisa Paloympis and Dyann Coratti (both Intarome), Courtney Jakubecy (L.A. Champon), Kelli Heinz (Bell) sea salt and black pepper. Red pepper harissa and Debbie O’Sullivan (Takasago). & feta contained red pepper harissa, feta cheese, fresh mint, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and black pepper and was served with pita chips. Finally, pishe Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) tachio & chocolate contained pistachios, dark chocolate flakes, got a taste of flavor and fragrance trends in New York’s sliced orange, fresh mint and clover honey. stylish SoHo neighborhood during the WFFC’s annual After a short walk, Xocolatti (172 Prince St.), a quaint store sensory fragrance and flavor trend excursion on June 3. which incorporates the owner’s penchant for jewelry box-type The trek began at Georgetown Cupcakes (111 Mercer displays (his father owned a jewelry store), featured gourmet Street), where visitors tried out a wide variety of cupcake chocolate flavors such as olive oil basil truffle, sake truffle, chamflavors, as well as a gluten-free option. pagne brute, coffee nutmeg, cranberry macadamia, gianduja, The SoHo outpost of the Washington, D.C.-based company, mango paprika, raspberry black pepper, rose almond, rose which changes its cupcake offerings frequently, featured flavors cardamom, PBJ, pineapple habanero, spiced mint and white such as chocolate salted caramel, gluten-free chocolate salted caramel, vanilla2 with buttercream frosting or cream cheese chocolate salted pistachio. Directly next door, cosmetic specialists at Bite Lip Lab frosting, cherry blossom, cherry cheesecake, chocolate coconut, (174 Prince St.) created custom-made lipsticks and lip moischocolate hazelnut, coffee cookies and crème, dulce de leche turizers for the group. The brand, which says its mission cheesecake, lava fudge, lemon blossom, marble brownie fudge is to create lipstick that is “high performance and healthy cheesecake, mint cookies & crème, peanut butter fudge, toasted enough to eat (food-grade) for women everywhere,” featured marshmallow and toffee crunch.

T

Chocolate salted caramel was among the savory and sweet cupcake flavor options at Georgetown Cupcakes. 12

Industry

Xocolatti’s precious, jewelry-type boxes of gourmet chocolates contained flavors like olive oil basil truffle, sake truffle and more.

Vol. 39 • September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist

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Amy Marks-McGee (Trendincite) and Jeanine Pedersen (Takasago) led the WFFC’s annual sensory fragrance and flavor trend excursion in New York’s SoHo on June 3. Chobani offered a table full of savory and sweet flavor combinations in its yogurt creations.

Molly Schwartz (Mane) ponders over her niche fragrance favorite at Osswald.

Lipstick truffles used to create custom lipstick at Bite Lip Lab are infused with flavor and scent options including cherry, mint, mango, superberry, vanilla and violet. All WFFC photos by Daniel D’Errico

custom-created tubes of lipstick in various flavor and fragrance themes for the WFFC group like “WFFC Berries Gone Wild,” “WFFC Mango Madness” and “WFFC Sweet & Natural.” The lab offers a choice of six flavors and scents: cherry, mint, mango, superberry (an açaí, blueberry and pomegranate mix), vanilla and violet. The lipstick “truffles” that the lab uses to create custom colors for the lipsticks contain ingredients like trans-resveratrol, beeswax, argan oil, shea butter and FDAapproved colorants. A quick lunch break at Mercer Kitchen (99 Prince Street), a restaurant conceptualized by renowned chef Jean-Goerges Vongerichten, featured a lively blend of flavors starting with the restaurant’s flavored soda offerings like black cherry-yuzu, lemon-lemongrass, ginger-lime and lemon thyme. The appetizers melded together bold flavor combinations such as chilled artichoke, mustard mayonnaise, chervil and lemon, as well as roasted baby beets with goat cheese. Main course options included steamed shrimp salad with avocado, mushrooms and tomato, champagne vinaigrette or a burger topped with pepper jack cheese, crunchy red onions, avocado and Russian dressing served with french fries. Sweet dessert options included warm Valrhona chocolate cake, cocoa bean brittle and vanilla bean ice cream or sour cream cheesecake, blood orange sorbet and kumquat marmalade.

The day ended at Osswald (311 West Broadway), an upscale parfumerie that originated in Zurich, Switzerland. The store exhibited an air of exclusivity with a sizable amount of fragrances priced from about $200 to more than $1,000 and a locked front door with a buzzer system to enter. The SoHo location specialized in more than 20 niche perfume brands, as well as home care and skin care. The store managers passed around fragrance blotters and told the stories behind scents like Cuir Venenum from Parfumerie Générale, which was inspired by a leather-clad model-muse. Roja Parfums, according to the store’s managers, are frequently requested, and the brand’s newest rollouts are often backordered at the store. The shop also featured niche fragrance brands such as Amouage, Arquiste, Boadicea, Biehl Parfumkunstwerke, Clive Christian, Etro, Huitième Art, LM Parfums, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, MDCI, Micallef, Parfums de Nicolaï, Phaedon, Profumum Roma, Stéphane Humbert Lucas—777, Ys Uzac and Xerjoff. J’aime Soho, created by Takasago Perfumer Patricia Choux, was the featured take-home perfume gift of the WFFC excursion this year, offering fruity, citrus and apple top notes that blend into a heart of French macaroons, orange blossom and jasmine. The base notes of vanilla, sugar, wood and musk offered a sweet finish to the scent. 13

Bringing Kitchen Chemistry Back to Prepared Foods Achieving authenticity in commercial prepared foods is a key challenge in food product development. In response, Givaudan recently launched its TasteSolutionsa Richness platform, which provides convenience foods with consumer-preferred, homecooked, authentic tastes for savory applications such as chicken and beef. (The platform is expanding to segments such as vegetables, dairy and cheese.) The richness profiles can be applied to quick-service restaurants, dehydrated products such as instant soups and dry mixes, and ambient wet products such as soups and sauces. The platform can also be used to transition complex culinary profiles into the snack category. Richness differs from umami in that umami is a taste sensation primarily derived from MSG, while richness is the result of the complex, synergistic chemical interplay created through fermentation or cooking processes, says Matthew Walter, Givaudan’s group leader, culinary application. This complexity is much better understood now, than in the past, leading to new innovations. The TasteSolutions platform has previously addressed health and wellness-related issues such as salt reduction and umami for clean-label product development, says Laith Wahbi, global product manager, savory taste, at Givaudan. TasteSolutions Richness, he adds, is the next evolution of that platform. “We’re looking beyond ingredients like salt and MSG to provide taste and really understand when we look at a dish that’s prepared at home or a restaurant how taste contributes to that authentic experience,” says Wahbi. “We found that it actually plays a fundamental role.” He explains that, “using taste as the key enabler,” the richness platform allows the company to formulate convenience foods for a commercial environment that have the layered and nuanced sensory impact of something produced over a period of time or via multiple steps in a home or restaurant. It also takes the formulators’ dependence away from commodities such as salt and MSG, the traditional tools of the food industry, which might have a negative health or label connotation or perception, says Walter. Such next-generation flavor and taste systems are thus, in Wahbi’s words, “healthy by design.” “We’re not able to braise or slow-cook or roast or ferment things in an industrial setting,” Walter says. “With TasteSolutions Richness we’re putting that time element back into convenience food, but still keeping it convenient and driving differentiation from the consumer eating experience.” Wahbi gives the example of a home-cooked soup, which develops flavor and richness through slow cooking, rather than using salt or MSG. In the instance of a homemade meat sauce, he adds, the chef would sauté onions in olive oil, then brown the meat, which would react with the onions, to which elements aTasteSolutions

is a trade name of Givaudan.

Read more about the role of research chefs in the flavor industry in “From Idea to Execution: A Recipe for Food Product Innovation” from the March 2014 issue of P&F; www.perfumerflavorist.com/magazine/. 14

Industry

“We’re not able to braise or slow-cook or roast or ferment things in an industrial setting,” says Matthew Walter, Givaudan’s group leader, culinary application. “We’re putting that time element back into convenience food, but still keeping it convenient and driving differentiation from the consumer eating experience.”

such as tomatoes and beef stock might be added, creating yet a different set of reactions—all of which occur over a prolonged period, often at varying temperatures. Recreating the chemistry of such a process, Wahbi says, is a significant scientific challenge, particularly since industrial settings often necessitate the simultaneous addition of ingredients at a single temperature, which are then cooked for the briefest possible period. As a result, Wahbi says, “It doesn’t give you all that food chemistry, all those natural reactions that are happening in the [traditional] kitchen.” In order to build back the desired flavor in industrial products, Givaudan’s chefs begin by recreating the target dish with the involvement of the company’s flavorists and scientists, who in turn assess what cooking processes are involved and what key flavors and tastes are produced as a result—from a chemistry level. The scientists and flavorists use those insights to rebuild the flavor and taste matrix developed by the chefs. The company’s internal chefs also collaborate with culinary innovators such as Alex Atala of São Paulo’s D.O.M. Restaurante and Jordi Roca of Spain’s El Celler de Can Roca via Givaudan’s ChefsCouncilb program to rapidly translate emerging trends and insights into the consumer goods space. This translation, says Walter, requires a strong cross-functional team in-house. “There’s a difference between an idea and an innovation,” he explains. “Innovation has to bring value, has to be tangible. That’s our role as chefs, flavorists and research colleagues. It’s about turning it into something of value.” bChefsCouncil

is a trade name of Givaudan.

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Photo Album: Payan Bertrand Celebrates 160th Anniversary

Payan Bertrand celebrated its 160th anniversary June 13–14 by taking its full staff and their families on a private cruise to St. Tropez aboard the Club Med 2. According to the company, the destination had been kept secret until arrival at the port of Nice. The company notes that the event provided, “the opportunity for a time of festive and convivial sharing in an enchanting setting, at the level of the family values promoted by the company.”

A view of the Payan Bertrand fragrance laboratory, Grasse, France, circa 1930.

A distillation underway in copper stills at Payan Bertrand in Grasse, circa 1979.

The Proal family, which includes current Payan Bertrand president Eric Proal (far left) and managing director Vincent Proal (second from right).

The Payan Bertrand staff, circa 1979.

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Fragrance Foundation Awards Unite Perfumers, Scents and Celebrities Industry notables and celebrities alike gathered together to celebrate The Fragrance Foundation Awards during a gala on June 16 at Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center in New York City. “The Fragrance Foundation Awards is the most important night for the beauty industry, and we are in awe of this year’s creative achievements and accomplishments,” said Elizabeth Musmanno, the foundation’s president. “We congratulate all the winners and finalists who continue to master the art of fragrance.” Carine Roitfeld, the editor in chief of CR Fashion Book, and model Coco Rocha served as co-chairs of the event. Sony Music recording artist Judith Hill, who was recently a muse for a fragrance created by IFF perfumer Celine Barel, performed her version of the song, “Hallelujah.” Leonard Lauder, chairman emeritus of The Estée Lauder Companies, presented the Hall of Fame Award to his friend and colleague, Michael Gould, the former chairman and CEO of Bloomingdale’s. “Thanks to Leonard and Evelyn (Lauder), I stand here in Perfumer Ralf Schwieger (Mane) received the Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year awe of all the good that they did,” said Gould. award for Aedes de Venustas, Iris Nazarena. “No one remembers the numbers; they only remember what you did for them,” added Gould, who said he would like to share his award with everyone in the industry.  Carlos Benaim, master perfumer at International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), was honored with the Perfumer of the Year Lifetime Achievement Award. Nicolas Mirzayantz, fragrances group president of IFF, presented the award to Benaim and spoke of the master perfumer’s remarkable fragrances and his honorable attributes: “I appreciate (Benaim’s) passion, talent and kindness.” “What really moves a consumer is when [one] feels the emotion behind the creation,” said Benaim. Benaim also gave a nod to the team at IFF and talked about the power of collaboration in helping him reach his goals in perfumery. “No one does it alone,” he said. Carlos Benaim (IFF) was honored with the Ann Gottlieb (Ann Gottlieb Associates). Award presenters and attendees included Perfumer of the Year Lifetime Achievement actress Gwendoline Christie from “Game of award. Thrones,” actress Angie Harmon from “Rizzoli & Isles,” model Behati Prinsloo, Golden Globe and SAG Awardwinner Michael C. Hall and Academy Award-winner Marisa Tomei, in addition to host and comedian Dana Carvey, who mingled with the guests and served as emcee of the event. He joked how hosting the Fragrance Foundation Awards once again this year makes him feel like he’s now part of the flavor and fragrance family. “Sooner or later, I will be asking for a loan or a ride to the airport,” Carvey said. The evening’s award winners were: Fragrance Hall of Fame: Clinique Happy (Clinique) Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year: Mane for Aedes de Venustas, Iris Nazarena. Perfumer: Ralf Schwieger. Fragrance of the Year, Women’s—Luxury: Prive Rose d’Arabie (Giorgio Armani) Fragrance of the Year, Men’s—Luxury: Tom Ford Rive Westley Morris (Mane), Nicole Urbanowicz (P&F Magazine) and Ralf Schwieger d’Ambre (Tom Ford Beauty) Fragrance of the Year, Women’s—Prestige: Estée Lauder (Mane). Modern Muse Eau de Parfum (Estée Lauder) 18

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From left: Tina Sabhnani and Pooja Sabhnani (both of PVM International), and Doreen Bucher (Symrise).

From left: Laura Slatkin (Nest), Elizabeth Musmanno (Fragrance Foundation) and Nicole Urbanowicz (P&F).

From left: Isabel Lopes (Avon), and Cosimo Policastro and Alison Chaneski (both of Givaudan).

Rhona Stokols (Symrise) and Jennifer Powderly (Robertet).

Polo Red won three Fragrance Foundation awards.

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s—Prestige: Polo Red (L’Oréal/ Ralph Lauren Fragrances) Fragrance of the Year, Women’s—Popular: Victoria by Victoria’s Secret (Victoria’s Secret) Fragrance of the Year, Men’s—Popular: Victoria’s Secret Very Sexy Platinum for Him (Victoria’s Secret) Celebrity Consumer Choice Award—Our Moment One Direction (Elizabeth Arden) Consumer Choice Award—Women’s: Victoria by Victoria’s Secret (Victoria’s Secret) Consumer Choice of the Year—Men’s: Polo Red (L’Oréal/ Ralph Lauren Fragrances)

Victoria by Victoria’s Secret won two Fragrance Foundation awards.

Interior Scent Collection of the Year: Passion Collection for the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (Nest Fragrances) Media Campaign of the Year (tie)—Women’s: Jean Paul Gaultier Classique (Beaute Prestige International) and N°5 (Chanel) Media Campaign of the Year—Men’s: Polo Red (L’Oréal/ Ralph Lauren Fragrances) Packaging of the Year—Women’s: Honey Marc Jacobs (Coty) Packaging of the Year—Men’s: Bottega Veneta Pour Homme (Coty) Read more about the perfumers honored at this year’s award ceremony in “Perfumers in Awards Spotlight” on Page 56 of the August 2014 issue of P&F; www.perfumerflavorist.com/magazine/pastissues/. 19

Rethinking “Fresh” From chewing gum to carpet cleaners to fast food offerings, consumers are inundated with concepts of “fresh.” Given how liberally the buzzword is dispensed in the consumer space, it’s no surprise that the term remains ill-defined, even opaque. Mane’s New York-based fragrance operations offered a sensory redefinition of “fresh” at its Mane Gallery, which focused on exploring the specific creative challenges that the perfume industry faces. The exhibit, “Fresh: Perspectives,” opened in April and examined what the idea of fresh means in the context of culture, history, consumer insights, olfaction and marketing in perfumery, and beyond. Some of the challenges displayed to provoke discussion included an exhibit of canned goods all with similar fragrance ad campaigns, ironically showing their lack of freshness. Another exhibit, modeled after a strength-testing carnival game, allowed industry visitors to smell blotters and guess how consumers perceived the strength of each fragrance’s freshness. The final display utilized Mane’s captives to offer a sensory idea of what new definitions of fresh could encompass—including one formula from perfumer Ralf Schwieger of Mane that evoked a gazpacho-like freshness thanks to tomato extract and savory, minty and veggie notes. Vincent Kuczinski’s fresh scent was iodized, sensual and ozonic, while Irina Burlakova formulated a take on fresh that was fuzzy, aromatic, sweet and distinctly candylike. To expand upon the concept of freshness, the company has mounted similar exhibits at its Sao Pãulo and Paris operations, both of which reflected upon local, unique perspectives on fresh, distinct from those presented in New York.

From left: Jim Krivda, Ralf Schwieger, Westley Morris, Gabriela Chelariu and Vincent Kuczinski. (all of Mane).

Mane Gallery explored the concept of “fresh” and its context in culture, perfumery, consumer insights and more.

Correction & Update

The Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) held its annual recognition awards dinner on June 18 at Nanina’s in the Park in Belleville, New Jersey. Celine Roche (Mane), the president of WFFC (left), presented the WFFC Annual Recognition awards to four recipients (from left): Kari Arienti (Symrise), Octavia Jordan (Mane), Karen Alexander (IFF) and Marie Wright (Wild Flavors).

In “(Re)Formulating the Future of Health and Wellness,” from the July 2014 issue of Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine, a paragraph on Page 30 contained some inaccurate information regarding sugar reduction. The updated paragraph is presented below, with the corrected text in bold italics. We regret the error. “Recently, Firmenich continued its taste innovation expansion in Asia, relocating Imad Farhat, vice president of breakthrough cost innovation for flavors, from Princeton, New Jersey, to Shanghai. There, he works closely with the technical and commercial teams across Asia Pacific to service the “strong” demand for healthy ingredients in Southeast Asia, particularly in Indonesia, Thailand, Philippines and Malaysia, using technologies such as taste modulation. The company’s TasteGEM* solutions enable food and beverage companies to formulate healthier, taste-preferred and cost-effective products with up to 30% less added sugar. The range includes the previously mentioned SweetGEM, which can be combined with natural sweeteners such as stevia for sugar reductions up to 50% or more.” *TasteGEM and SweetGEM are trade names of Firmenich.

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Sustainable Beauty, Ethical Sourcing and Economic Impacts of Essential Oils Highlights from the annual general meeting of the European Federation of Essential Oils. The European Federation of Essential Oils (EFEO) recently held its annual general meeting in Grasse, France. This report is based on notes from the organization and Laure Moutet, who attended the conference.

D

uring its annual general meeting in Grasse, France, EFEO elected Vilfredo Raymo (Simone Gatto) president, succeeding Jens-Achim Protzen (Paul Kaders GmbH), while Jorge Miralles (Indukern) was named vice president. The event included a gala dinner and a number of speakers who addressed key concerns for the essential oil industry.

Sustainable Beauty by 2020 By 2020, L’Oreal envisions that online information and product innovation will enable every consumer to make sustainable consumption choices, said Marie Helene Beausoleil, head of global fragrance portfolio and partnership at L’Oréal. Accomplishing this, she said, will require full involvement of all strategic suppliers in the L’Oréal sustainability program, which is expected to give more than 100,000 people from underprivileged communities access to work. At the same time, sustainability will be embedded in innovation, development and production. The scale of the undertaking is massive. L’Oréal is valued at more than 23 billion euros and operates 28 international brands across 130 countries with 77,500 employees. The company holds about 624 patents and achieves 30% of sales from skin care and another 20% each from makeup and hair care. Innovating for these segments will mean boosting product biodegradability and footprints, particularly in reductions of the “gray water” needed to get rid of effluents. They must also contain renewable raw materials and those derived from green chemistry. All ingredients must have strong traceability, while green chemistry materials will be assessed on waste and overall environmental and functional impact. Fragrances, in particular, also continue to fall under increased scrutiny, according to Beausoleil. They will be assessed by the sustainability policies of suppliers, social and environmental performance/footprint, and the traceability of the sourcing. Natural ingredients will continue to be important, said Beausoleil. Naturals are high-quality, benefit from the ancestral knowhow of producers and formulators, and are highly desirable for consumers. However, she said, these materials can have a significant environmental impact, and there can be a lack of traceability throughout the supply chain to the source. At the same time, the materials can be sensitizers for consumers and are subject to climatic conditions and attacks from pests. Meanwhile, the naturals market can be competitive, and producers will continue to compete with food producers for arable land. Despite this, Beausoleil noted that there are new synthetic paths to create ingredients, biotechnology offers new avenues 22

Ingredients

From left: Bas Schneiders (Weleda), Stephen Weller (IFRA), Jens-Achim Protzen (Paul Kaders GmbH), Marie Helene Beausoleil (L’Oreal), Hélène Perier (CITES) and Steve Smith (FD Copeland).

From left: Thierry Duclos (Quimdis) and Jean Mane (Mane).

From left: Incoming EFEO president Vilfredo Raymo (Simone Gatto) and Laure Moutet.

for ingredient production, byproducts can be used for secondary industrial uses, and natural ingredient knowhow continues to be of high value.

The Impact of Bergamot Production on Growing Communities About 90% of the global production of bergamot occurs in Reggio Calabria, Italy, said Stephen Weller, director of communications for the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). This production spans 1,200 hectares and employs 6,000 people. But how does this industry contribute to the resilience of the local economy and community? This was the question at the heart of a recent survey conducted by IFRA. The study sought to measure the local growing community’s “ability to withstand stresses and shocks at the household level,” according to Weller. The survey, examined the issue from cultural, technological, social, political and economic angles via household questionnaires presented to 326 of 350

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local farmers, and comprising 150 questions. Both bergamotand non-bergamot-growing villages were included to ensure accuracy of results. These results told a story of resilience. According to the study results, bergamot growers’ profit has grown 85% in recent years, with just a small increase in overall farming land, meaning the profit is in the crops themselves. Some of the improvement has come from stable prices, improved networks among producers and income diversification. As a result, more young people are staying in or returning to the region to take part in the local industry. The study, said Weller, provides a complete narrative of the impact of the essential oil industry on local economies, and can be a key resource when industry engages policymakers. He also notes that this study can be replicated in other countries.

The Value of the Ethical Trade in Natural Ingredients About 78% of Weleda’s ingredients are organic-certified, said Bas Schneiders, the company’s head of corporate sustainability. The company has been able to achieve this via a biodiversity management system, long-term partnerships with suppliers and implementation of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) standards and principles, which, according to Schneiders, offers an alternative to cumbersome and expensive certifications. The UEBT standard, which can be applied to the cosmetic, food and pharmaceutical sectors, emphasizes respect for biodiversity and partners. UEBT members include companies, non-governmental organizations and trade associations. In practice, said Schneiders, UEBT is supplier-focused and provides a verification system. When implemented, it has provided Weleda with long-term security in supplying, growing and planning, enables long-term investments, offers market and supply chain stability, and builds trust in supplier relationships. Next, Hélène Perier, scientific officer for the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), discussed the convention’s framework, which involves 180 countries and covers more than 35,000 plants and animals, including 900 species threatened with extinction. An additional 140 species are currently being considered for protection. The purpose of CITES is to protect endangered species, not stop trade, Perier stressed. Once a species is added, its status is reviewed on a regular basis and monitored by a scientific group within the European Union. The majority of CITES documents, totaling about 28000,000 annually, are issued by France, Italy, the United Kingdom and Germany. Because CITES uses a one country, one vote system, the European Union is strong compared to economic powers such as the United States and China. To illustrate CITES in practice, Perier explained that guaiac wood (Bulnesia sarmienti; CAS# 8016-23-7; FEMA# 2534) is currently under scrutiny. Sourced from countries such as Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil and Paraguay, the species accounts for about 250 tons of extract and 1,400 tons of wood, according to Perier’s figures. She declared this total unsustainable. As a result, CITES has worked to fund new trees with an investment of about e5 million. For future meeting information, visit www.perfumerflavorist. com/events/calendar/. 24

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Events More events are posted at www.perfumerflavorist.com/events. Filter events by topic and region; submit event announcements; access exclusive event coverage and photo albums. September 11—BSP 2014 One Day Symposium; Whittlebury, UK; www.bsp.org.uk September 14–17—New Horizons Workshop; Stone Mountain, GA; www.cspa.org September 15–18—WorldFood Moscow; Moscow, Russia; www.foodexhibitions.com/worldfood-moscow September 17–19—Intercharm Ukraine; Kiev, Ukraine; www.intercharm.kiev.ua/eng/ September 18—SFP Seminar: “Art & Parfums”; TBD, France; www.parfumeurs-createurs.org September 18—WFFC 32nd Annual Gala; Woodland Park, NJ; www.wffc.org September 21–25—IFEAT 2014; Rome, Italy; www.ifeat.org October 8–9—Society of Flavor Chemists Symposium; Jersey City, NJ; http://flavorchemists.com October 16—SFP Seminar: “La Parfumerie Fonctionnelle”; TBD, France; www.parfumeurs-createurs.org October 20–22—Cosme Tokyo 2014; Tokyo, Japan; www.cosmetokyo.jp October 23–26—NAFFS Annual Convention; Longboat Key, FL; www.naffs.org October 24–26—World Congress of Nutrition & Health 2014; Taiyuan, China; www.bitlifesciences.com/wcnh2014 November 5—WFFC Fall Seminar; Saddle Brook, NJ; www.wffc.org November 5—RIFM 48th Annual Meeting; River Vale, NJ; www.rifm.org November 12—BSP Fine Fragrance Demonstration Meeting; Manchester, UK; www.bsp.org/uk November 12—Chicago Section IFT Suppliers Night; Rosemont, IL; www.ift.org November 20—Pôle PASS Cluster International Conference; Grasse, France; www.pole-pass.fr November 20—SFP Seminar: “Les rapports entre l’Art et la Parfumerie;” TBD, France; www.parfumeurs-createurs.org

2015 November 15–17—Flavorcon 2015; Atlantic City, NJ; www.flavorcon.com December 1–3—Fi Europe & Ni; Paris, France; www.foodingredientsglobal.com/en/europe/home

2016 June 13–15—World Perfumery Congress 2016; Miami Beach, FL; wpc.perfumerflavorist.com

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Raw Material Bulletin Want to connect with a supplier? Contact the editor in chief at [email protected]. Frescolat SC1, from Symrise, can be used as a cooling agent in oral care, chewing gum and confectionery products. It enhances the effect of menthol and has a positive impact on the flavor profile when used in larger doses in combination with menthol. It also neutralizes the bitter tastes that can result from high menthol content. www.symrise.com

Firmenich offers Firascone, the closest cyclogeranate to the palette of rose ketones, which features subtle notes of saffron and can be used in a number of rosy and fruity creations. This ingredient is nonsensitizing on the skin. www.firmenich.com Natural Advantage features worldwide natural bacon dithiazine (FEMA# 4017, CAS# 74595-94-1), which is a kosher, vegetarian, non-GMO ingredient used in onion, savory roasted or grilled chicken, beef and bacon flavors. This ingredient has a fried and roasted taste reminiscent of chicken, beef or pork fat, with roasted potato skin notes. Suggested use levels are 0.5–2.5 ppm in consumer products. www.natural-advantage.net Mediterranean pine (FEMA# 2906, EINECS, CAS# 802399-2) from Ventos is obtained from the forests of Southeast Spain and is processed through steam distillation of pine (Pinus halepensis) splinters. Its odor, which is drier and greener than other pine essences, is reminiscent of the Mediterranean forest and has a pine nut smell. It is widely used in perfumery for fragrance compounds, and blends well with lemon, cypress, cedarwood and rosemary. www.ventos.com Negev Aroma, a joint venture between Agan Aroma & Fine Chemicals Ltd. and Firmenich, offers Aleol (FEMA# 2563, CAS# 928-96-1; synonym: leaf alcohol), which has a green, fruity and herbaceous odor. It is suitable for a wide variety of fragrance compositions. The supplier also offers Aleol acetate (FEMA# 3171, CAS# 3681-71-8; synonym: cis-3-hexenyl acetate), which has a fresh green, fruity odor. It provides green top notes and adds freshness to florals in fragrance compositions. Also suitable for flavor use, it can be used in a wide variety of fruity notes. www.agan-aroma.com Passion fruit aroma, from Artiste, is an aqueous condensate resulting from the concentration of juice of the purple passion fruit. This natural from the named fruit (FTNF) product is a clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid. Its aroma has the characteristic odor of passion fruit with juicy tropical notes. Suggested applications for this ingredient include beverages such as flavored waters, teas and distilled spirits. It is also widely used to add back the natural, true-to-the-fruit notes in flavor formulations. www.artiste.us.com

Bell Flavors & Fragrances Inc. (FEMA# 2190, CAS# 749270-8) features butyl butyryl lactate, natural, which is a clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid that is slightly soluble in water, and soluble in propylene glycol, alcohol and oils. It has a sweet-sour buttermilk-type odor with a mild-fruity undertone. Its taste profile is sweet-sour-fruity-buttermilk with a bready odor and creamy taste. Suggested uses for this non-GMO, kosher ingredient include imitation butter, butterscotch, fruit (tutti frutti, etc.), nut, vanilla and other flavors. The company also features dimethyl sulfide 95%, natural (FEMA# 2746, CAS#75-18-3), which is a clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid that is insoluble in water, yet soluble in alcohol and oils. It has an extremely diffusive, sharp, green, cabbagelike odor that is also reminiscent of wild radish. It is used in perfumery, mainly in the reconstruction of certain essential oils (geranium, peppermint, etc.). This non-GMO, kosher ingredient is occasionally used in flavor compositions for imitation coffee, chocolate, cocoa, molasses (caramel-treacle) and certain fruit types. www.bellff.com International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. offers Karmawood (CAS# 70788-30-6), which has a substantive woody, powdery amber, creamy sandalwood note that adds strength and tenacity to fragrances. It is suitable for most end-use applications. www.iff.com SAFC supplies cinnamyl acetate, natural, 95% (FEMA# 2293, CAS# 103-54-8), which has sweet, spicy, floral, cinnamon and honey taste characteristics with a tutti frutti nuance. Its odor characteristics are sweet, floral, cinnamon, spicy, estery and powdery, with a rosy nuance. Suggested flavor and fragrance applications include apple, balsam, cassia, fruit, peach, pineapple, vetiver and mimosa. www.sigmaaldrich.com/safc Symrise offers a new crystalline quality of Ambrocenide ((4aR,5R,7aS,9R)-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9a-hexamethyl-4H-4a,9methanoazuleno[5,6-d]-1,3-dioxole). Ambrocenide Cryst., recently shown at the 2014 World Perfumery Congress, is powerful, ambery, warm and woody. This aroma molecule imparts a unique vibrant sensation and powerful, distinct, intense aura in fragrance compositions. www.symrise.com

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

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cis-Jasmone This ingredient excels in fruit flavors, adding a level of depth, realism and complexity that has few rivals. John Wright; [email protected]

C

is-Jasmone (FEMA# 3196, CAS# 488-10-8) has a character that is exceptionally difficult to pin down and describe. As the name implies, it contains a strong floral element and makes a highly significant contribution to the profile of natural jasmine flowers. Nevertheless, from a flavor viewpoint, it would seem to be better classified primarily as an herbal note. It is noticeably waxy, but also has distinct elements of celery and mint. The odor of this chemical is so complex that it might seem to have a narrowly restricted range of uses; however, this is not the case. cis-Jasmone is surprisingly useful in a very wide range of flavors, despite its complexity. It excels in berry and other fruit flavors, adding a level of depth, realism and complexity that has few rivals. The dose rates given below are the levels of cis-jasmone to be used in flavors that are intended to be dosed at 0.05% in a ready-to-drink taster or beverage.

Berry Flavors

Blackcurrant: Many blackcurrant flavors are little more than buchu oilbased caricatures, and cis-jasmone would frankly be wasted in them. In the increasingly popular authentic style of flavors, it can play a very useful role at around 150 ppm. Raspberry: The best raspberry flavors have a mouthwatering richness to them, somewhat akin to fully ripened berries grown at home. This ingredient makes a major contribution toward achieving this character at levels around 100 ppm. Blueberry: The mouthwatering effect is almost as spectacular in blueberry, a flavor category that can often

lack depth. One hundred ppm is also an effective level in these flavors. Blackberry: Blackberry flavors are similar in many respects to raspberry flavors, with an added musky note, but much else unchanged. Not surprisingly, this ingredient works equally well at around 100 ppm. Gooseberry: This flavor category is firmly in the “minor league,” but it is found occasionally and is not especially easy to reproduce accurately. Lower levels of this ingredient are more appropriate, around 50 ppm in gooseberry flavors. Strawberry: Here the effect of cisjasmone is, of necessity, relatively subtle and so is a distinctly secondary ingredient. Nevertheless, 10 ppm of cis-jasmone can make a noticeable difference, especially in wild strawberry flavors, where it enhances the floral note. Cherry: Similarly, 10 ppm or less is all that is required in authentic-style cherry flavors to add a little welcome depth and complexity. This ingredient

would be wasted in simple tutti fruttistyle cherry flavors.

Tropical Fruit Flavors

Mango: In the category of tropical fruit flavors, mango is easily the most appropriate flavor profile for this raw material. The slightly waxy, herbal note fits very well into the mango skin note. Use levels can vary, depending on the amount of skin character required, but 200 ppm is a good place to start. Pineapple: Fifty ppm is a useful level for cis-jasmone in authentic-style pineapple flavors. At this level, it fleshes out the character, adding depth and counterbalancing what can often be an over-dominant fruity, ester note. Guava: A level of 50 ppm or rather less also works quite effectively in guava flavors, adding realism and depth and a very subtle floral character. Kiwi: cis-Jasmone adds depth and complexity to kiwi flavors, although it only plays a secondary role in the flavor

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

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category. A level of 30 ppm is a good starting point. Passion fruit: The effect in passion fruit flavors is quite subtle but, nevertheless, worthwhile, adding useful realism and complexity at around 10 ppm. Lychee: Lychee flavors are quite delicate and already have a notable floral aspect, so it is important not to add too much cis-jasmone. Five ppm is an effective starting level. Banana: Although banana flavors are generally far from delicate, a similar level of addition, around 5 ppm, also works well in this category.

Citrus Flavors

Lime: Lime flavors with the rather medicinal profile of distilled lime oil can benefit most from this ingredient. One hundred ppm is an ideal level. Flavors that exhibit the profile of the fresh fruit can also benefit; however, the level of addition is lower, around 30 ppm. Bergamot: cis-Jasmone is especially effective in bergamot-based flavors intended for use in Earl Grey tea because it is similarly helpful in both the bergamot and the tea profiles. Fifty ppm is an ideal level. Lemon: Lemon flavors benefit from the addition of this ingredient in a very similar way to fresh lime flavors. The ideal level of addition is similar, around 30 ppm.

Other Fruit Flavors

Apricot: cis-Jasmone is especially effective in apricot flavors, harmonizing well with the linalool character that often dominates this flavor category. It adds complexity and enhances the “furry” skin note at levels around 200 ppm. Peach: The effect in peach flavors is very similar to that in apricot flavors but, because the linalool note is normally less pronounced, the ideal level of addition is nearer to 100 ppm. Nectarine: One hundred ppm, or slightly lower levels, work equally well in nectarine flavors, enhancing the fleshy character and the “furry” notes. Apple: Only a trace of cis-jasmone is required in apple flavors, around 10 ppm, but this small addition is quite effective in adding complexity.

Floral Flavors

Jasmine: Unsurprisingly, cis-jasmone is an almost essential ingredient in jasmine flavors, adding realism and body. A level of 500 ppm is a good starting point. Chrysanthemum: This is an altogether less expected floral use of this ingredient, but similarly high levels, in the region of 500 ppm, work equally well in this difficult flavor category.

tea profiles. This ingredient pairs very well with linalool and linalool oxide, so the higher the levels of these ingredients in the tea, the higher the level of cisjasmone that can be accommodated. Peppermint: Many commercial peppermint flavors derive a noticeable degree of harshness from the presence of isomenthone and other key ingredients, together with the relative lack of “rounding” ingredients. This chemical can be very helpful at 50 ppm, adding body and smoothness in peppermint flavors. Spearmint: Similar levels also work well in spearmint flavors, adding complexity, body and authenticity. Honey: cis-Jasmone works best in honey flavors that have some level of floral note, and 30 ppm is a good starting point. Celery: Thirty ppm also adds significant realism to celery flavors, a profile that can often seem a little one-dimensional. To purchase a copy of this article or others, visit www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/magazine.

Other Flavors

Tea: Levels of use in tea flavors can vary dramatically, from up to 1,000 ppm in black tea flavors to 100 ppm in green

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Biotechnology Enters Its Next Phase Recent ingredient launches signal increasing complexity of biotechnologically derived natural flavor and fragrance materials.

“B

iotech flavors could replace some natural flavors, being manufactured within a controlled environment at a lower cost,” notes a recent UBIC Consulting (www.ubic-consulting.com) report. “They can also replace some nature-identical flavors and justify a natural label.” Indeed, flavor and fragrance industry investments in biotechnology-derived ingredients has ramped up in recent years, reflecting a recognition of potential advantages compared to some conventional counterparts, including: affordability, availability, efficiency of production and low environmental impact.

Natural Preference in Fragrance and Flavors

Consumers’ growing preference for natural products is nothing new, but it is increasing. “One-third of consumers say they ‘prefer personal care products made with natural or organic ingredients,’ including 25% of men and 38% of women,” notes a recent Kantar (http://us.kantar.com/) report. The report adds that the preference, depending on age range, is as high as 43% and 33% for women and men, respectively. Meanwhile, in the home care arena, a 2013 Mintel (www.mintel.com) report explains, “64% of consumers said they would buy more eco-friendly products if they were less expensive.” This attitude has been accompanied by a push by major retailers such as Walmart and Target into the natural household and personal care space. A Packaged Facts (www.packagedfacts.com) report that tracked the growth in the U.S. natural household surface cleaner and laundry product market concluded that retail sales rose from $303 million in 2007 to $640 million in 2011. The report adds, “Correspondingly, 41% of respondents to an online Packaged Facts consumer survey conducted in August 2012 indicated that they had purchased or used natural, organic, or eco-friendly household cleaning/laundry products within the previous 12 months, up from 38% in February 2009.” Simultaneously, consumer attitudes toward natural flavors continue in a similar direction. According to a 2013 DSM (www.dsm.com) survey of Nigerian, U.S., Chinese, Polish and Brazilian consumers, “more than half (55%) believe a ‘fresh or natural’ flavor is what makes food taste delicious, followed by ‘tastes as if it was made at home.’”

A new Evolva partnership will begin with the yeast fermentation production of agarwood fragrances; agarwood image via Creative Commons.

Firmenich has scaled up production of a woody patchoulilike fragrance molecule.

Interestingly, the report added, “This was felt most strongly by urban consumers living in China (72%), while their counterparts in Brazil said they first and foremost wanted food that ‘tastes as if it were made at home’ (67%).” The DSM report concluded, “These cravings for fresh, natural or homemade tastes is one of the more important challenges for food producers in the face of consumer behavior, as

Further Reading: Biotech Ingredients In Use Dec-9-en-2-one, produced via biotechnology and commercialized by Mane under the Antillone trade name, is profiled by flavorist John Wright, who discusses its use in tropical fruit, berry, citrus and other flavor profiles. Read more on Page 16 of the May 2014 issue of P&F; www.perfumerflavorist.com/magazine/pastissues/. Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

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Evolva is expected to launch a biotechnology-derived saffron product in 2016.

nearly two-thirds (64%) of urban consumers report they are using the same amount of or more processed food at home than they were three years ago.” Consequently, it is no surprise that a Markets and Markets (www.marketsandmarkets.com) report forecasts that the global natural flavors market will be worth $5 billion by 2017. (Research and Markets [www.researchandmarkets.com] predicts that the global flavor industry—natural and synthetic—will total $13 billion by 2018.) Reportsnreports.com places the growth of the natural flavor and color market at a compounded annual growth rate of 6.35% through 2018. Research and Markets explains, “[O]ne of the main drivers in this [food and beverage] market is the increase in the demand for food products that contain natural flavors and colorants. This demand has resulted from the growing health-conscious population seeking to consume food and beverage products that have natural labels on the pack, as they consider them to be safer and healthier.”

Nootkatone & Valencene

The UBIC Consulting report details several ingredients that are obvious targets for biotechnology production, including vanillin, furaneol, raspberry ketone and nootkatone. Many, if not all of these, have already been pursued commercially. For example, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. (Heerlen, the Netherlands) has formed an exclusive partnership with Isobionics B.V. (Geleen, the Netherlands) to distribute valencene and nootkatone to the flavor and fragrance market. The materials, intended to address price stability and supply reliability issues, will be produced via Isobionics’ fermentation technology. (Isobionics’ “valencene synthase” is detailed in WIPO patent application WO/2011/074954, which comprises “converting farnesyl diphosphate to valencene in the presence of a valencene synthase.”) “The current supply chain of many natural compounds is unstable and characterized by high volatility regarding availability, quality and pricing,” said Toine Janssen, CEO and founder of Isobionics. “With our proprietary fermentation technology, which is similar to brewing beer, we create the stability and reliability of supply that the market expects.” The DSM-Isobionics announcement follows the earlier large-scale valencene production initiated by Allylix (San Diego), which began producing “commercial quantities” of 33

the material in 2011. The ingredient was intended for application in beverages, confectionery and over-the-counter health care flavors. Allylix commercialized nootkatone in early 2010, based on the firm’s patented metabolic engineering platform, which enables low-cost production of high-value terpene products and terpene derivatives through yeast fermentation. The production of large-scale commercial quantities is made possible by 200,000-l fermentation tanks. In 2012, the company also released its Epivonea brand terpene, epi-b-vetivone, for fragrance applications. The material has a scent that is reportedly woody, vetiver, cassis and fruity, with a grapefruit effect. The ingredient can have 500-hour substantivity on the blotter and is applicable in cologne, hair care and personal care fragrances. At the time of the announcement, the company noted that annual revenue for similar terpene molecules used in fragrance applications is estimated between $20 million and $200 million. According to the Lexington Herald-Leader, Allylix has secured incentive financing for a reportedly $1.63-million laboratory expansion in Kentucky for its flavor and fragrance and other product activities. It has also secured a U.S. patent (8,642,815) for the use of premnaspirodiene as a starting material for the production of “5-epi-b-vetivone, 2-isopropyl-6,10-dimethyl-spiro[4,5]deca-2,6-dien-8-one and 2-isopropyl-6,10-dimethylspiro[4,5]deca-1,6-dien-8-one, which are useful for their fragrant qualities.” It has also secured a U.S. patent (8,753,842) for a “method for production of isoprenoid compounds.”

Patchouli & Beyond

Elsewhere in the biotech space, Firmenich has scaled up production of a woody patchoulilike fragrance molecule, Clearwoodb, from the fermentation of sugar cane, at a Brotas, Brazil, facility. The ingredient debuted at the 2014 World Perfumery Congress (see Page 60 for coverage). “This technology will enable Firmenich to make differentiated perfume creations with unique renewable ingredients,” said Boet Brinkgreve, group vice president, ingredients at Firmenich. “Our clients expect reliability of supply, cost innovation and olfactive differentiation, all of which we think the move to Brotas will help support.” Amyris and Firmenich are working on the production of additional molecules intended for the flavor and fragrance industries, according to the companies. They will share the “economic value derived from the sale of these ingredients,” according to an official press release. These terms are part of an expanded collaboration agreement for the development and commercialization of flavor and fragrance materials. Existing Amyris agreements with other industry players excepted, Firmenich has exclusive access to the Amyris technology platform for the flavor and fragrance market in exchange for “significant funding over the next six years.” “Innovation and sustainability are critical pillars of our business model,” said Firmenich CEO Patrick Firmenich. “We are very pleased with the progress of our ongoing collaboration with aEpivone

is a trade name of Allylix. is a trade name of Firmenich (read the story of Clearwood on Page 60 of this issue). bClearwood

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Ingredients

Valencene can be produced via biotechnology.

Nootkatone can also be produced via biotechnology.

Amyris, grounded in our vision to be the leaders in renewable ingredients for the flavor and fragrance market.” “We are excited to expand our productive collaboration with Firmenich,” said John Melo, Amyris’ president and CEO. “The rapid pace of our targeted ingredient development so far confirms our ability to deliver a host of disruptive, competitive ingredients to our partners and underscores the strategic value of collaborations for Amyris.” Rob Stone and James Medvedeff of Cowen & Co., quoted by BiofuelsDigest (www.biofuelsdigest.com), estimated that Amyris is currently working with five partners in the flavor and fragrance space, comprising the development of as many as 22 molecules.

Farnesene-derived Materials

Amyris is also focused on producing fragrance materials from farnesene. The company previously ramped up its production of artemisinin and the renewable hydrocarbon farnesene, the latter of which is produced under the company’s Biofene brand name. The company recently announced a partnership with Takasago (Tokyo) to commercialize novel fragrance products derived from farnesene, following successful feasibility testing that began in 2012. Scale-up is already underway. The ingredients will reach the market in 2015. “The use of Amyris’ renewable farnesene supports Takasago’s goal of utilizing innovative, cost-effective and sustainably sourced materials to make products that impact our customers’ daily lives,” noted Masayuki Mita, senior vice president of the fragrance and aroma chemical division at Takasago. “These new products will address customer demand resulting from the regulatory phase-out of certain existing fragrance ingredients, and will be some of the newest and most valuable fragrance ingredients on Takasago’s palette.” Zanna McFerson, chief business officer at Amyris, said, “Takasago’s strong scientific and manufacturing expertise is expanding the range of new fragrances made possible through our innovative technology. We look forward to the commercialization of these products and to the expansion of the portfolio of products enabled by our building block molecule. The new fragrance ingredients should help our partner extend the impact of their products on the diversity of fragrance formulations that perfumers can reach.” Amyris’ Brazilian farnesene plant, which is adjacent to a sugarcane mill, has surpassed a production run rate of 1 million liters over a 45-day period, with all six fermenters running. In addition to aromatic ingredients, the farnesene will be applied to renewable diesel and jet fuels and cosmetic ingredients. Another farnesene producer, Intrexon, is producing the building block chemical via bioconversion of natural methane. The company serves the cosmetics and specialty chemicals sector, as well as diesel fuels and lubricants.

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Materials Entering New Development Phase

Amyris has also met a technical milestone in the first phase of development for renewable flavor and fragrance ingredients for IFF (New York). “This arrangement supports our long-term strategy, which focuses on both innovation and portfolio maximization,” said Nicolas Mirzayantz, IFF’s group president, fragrances. “In our 125-year history, we have been market leaders in the area of innovation, and this recent work with Amyris reflects our continuing commitment to lead in this area. We believe that the creation of cost-effective molecules will have a positive impact on our fragrance ingredients business as well as the creative capabilities of our fragrance compounds business.” Under the terms of the multi-year agreement, IFF has exclusive rights to the renewable fragrance ingredients developed for applications in the flavors and fragrances sector, and Amyris will have exclusive rights in other sectors.

Agarwood

Evolva, in cooperation with BiotechCorp, has also entered into a collaboration with the Universiti Malaysia Pahang (UMP) to establish a Malaysian natural product center of excellence in the region’s flavor and fragrance cluster. The aim is to apply Evolva’s yeast fermentation production platform to indigenous natural products for flavor and fragrance, cosmetic, pharmaceutical and other sectors. The collaboration will begin with the yeast fermentation production of agarwood fragrances, which the partners hope will “complement the existing traditional production approaches” and “significantly widen” the use of agarwood scents worldwide. Because the Aquilaria and Gyrinops varieties are endangered, they fall under the Convention on International Trade in

Vanillin, Saffron & Stevia

Evolva Holding SA (Reinach, Switzerland) has announced that it is commercially launching its vanillin, following a successful pre-production phase. The company has collaborated on yeast-based fermentation routes in this area with IFF. Evolva’s stevia products, which will target reduced-calorie formulations, will likely launch in 2015 or 2016. The company began that collaboration, focused on fermentation-based steviol glycosides, with Cargill in 2013. This year, the project reached a technical milestone; as a result, Cargill made a $1-million milestone payment to Evolva. These payments could total as much as $7.5 million in the R&D period. “We are encouraged by this project’s trajectory,” said David Henstrom, Cargill’s global business director for health ingredients. “We look forward to offering cost-effective, great tasting, minor steviol glycosides in the market in the near future.” A saffron product offering will launch in 2016. The work, conducted at Evolva’s site in Chennai, India, is focused on optimizing the sensory and cost profile of the products. According to the company, “Evolva currently intends to commercialize saffron ingredients in its own right, though it will work with distributors, etc., in a similar manner to resveratrol.” Meanwhile, Evolva has discontinued a collaboration with IFF to produce an undisclosed flavor ingredient. That partnership began in 2012. Evolva’s work on the material may continue independently. 35

Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). Despite this, the global supply of agarwood verges on extinction. “If successful, this center’s global and multi-disciplinary efforts will produce both positive economic and environmental benefits for us all,” said Evolva CEO Neil Goldsmith. “Malaysia has abundant natural products with high potential to be developed into high purity, as well as active ingredients for the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and other high-end industries,” said BiotechCorp CEO Mohammed Nazlee Kamal. “This will create value for other industries with significant economic opportunities to benefit Malaysia’s bioeconomy agenda.”

Renewable Flavor, Fragrance & Cosmetic Ingredients Symrise (Holzminden, Germany) and P2 Science (New Haven, Connecticut) have entered a partnership to produce “a slate” of renewable ingredients. The partners will scale up the production of “products of immediate commercial interest” for commercialization over the next year. The ingredients will be produced by converting biomass into specialty chemicals via ozonolysis. Targeted materials include sustainable versions of existing ingredients and novel aromatic molecules. Novel materials will undergo performance, toxicology and economic feasibility screening. The ingredients that qualify for commercialization will offer Symrise differentiation and improved sustainability. P2 has also entered into a renewable F&F molecule development agreement with Bedoukian (Danbury, Connecticut). Materials of “commercial interest” will be identified and scaled up to commercial production levels over the coming year.

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Ingredients

This year, Amyris scaled up production of a fragrance molecule, produced from the fermentation of sugar cane, at its Brotas, Brazil, facility (pictured). Source: Amyris

“P2’s unique chemical process technology for the manufacture of chemicals from biomass is a good fit with Bedoukian’s synthesis and separations technology,” a P2 statement notes. “As part of the agreement, the companies will evaluate the potential for a joint manufacturing installation to serve the F&F market.” In addressing existing supply and sustainability challenges and offering potentially novel aromatic profiles, biotechnology investments will likely continue to increase in coming years. To purchase a copy of this article or others, visit www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/magazine.

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2014 World Perfumery Congress Addresses Rapid Changes Impacting Global Industry Focused on regulations, innovation, sustainability and new markets, the WPC provided inspiration for the industry’s creative minds. Victoria Frolova, Bois de Jasmin; special to P&F

Produced by Perfumer & Flavorist and presented by the American Society of Perfumers, the 2014 World Perfumery Congress, held June 10–12 in Deauville, France, expanded on the 2012 U.S.-based edition, hosting 1,100 participants, 80-plus exhibitors and sponsors, and industry-leading speakers and presenters. The largest numbers of attendees hailed from Western Europe, Asia-Pacific and North America, with strong and growing contingents from South America, the Middle East, Eastern Europe and Africa. In addition to numerous WPC networking events and private celebrations hosted by leading fragrance companies, the event included a historic meeting among global perfumer societies (see Page 56), ensuring the conference was a truly global event focused on the enhancement and recognition of perfumery. Meanwhile, the organizers have announced that the next WPC will take place June 13–15, 2016, at the Fontainebleau Resort in Miami Beach, Florida. Visit wpc.perfumerflavorist.com for details and to sign up for updates. —Editor in Chief

“T

he goal of an artist and perfumer is the same—to touch people’s emotions,” said photographer and artist Fabian Oefner in his keynote speech opening the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) in Deauville, France, on June 10, 2014. What is the role of perfume if not to add a touch of beauty and pleasure to the most ordinary day? The main themes of the WPC—regulations, innovation, sustainability and new markets—addressed the goal of capturing consumers’ imagination, but also focused on inspiring the creators themselves in all spheres of the perfume industry. There is no denying that perfumery is undergoing rapid changes, with the pace of regulation gaining momentum and the issues of transparency and renewability becoming more

The 2014 WPC, held in sunny Deauville, France, hosted 1,100 attendees from about 50 countries.

critical. Equally dramatic has been the transformation of the role of the perfumers, from solitary figures behind the scenes to multitasking actors speaking for their creations. New challenges were the leitmotif of the WPC, but so were new opportunities and inspirations.

Performance Innovations for the Consumer

According to Mintel, 23% of American women and 18% of American men are confused by the enormous range of fragrance product offerings. As Ruth Sutcliffe, senior marketing director and designer at Coty, said during the session on growth opportunities and innovation, “The industry is not responding to what the consumers want.”

More Photos Online For more 2014 WPC images, visit www.facebook.com/ perfumerflavorist/photos (no login required). (Continued on Page 42)

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

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The Magic Inside

Clearwood Created from white biotechnology, Clearwood® delivers all the rewards of modern ingredient design. Beaming with light, it offers the creamy warmth of amber and a dark woody character reminiscent of patchouli.

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(Continued from Page 38)

Opening Cocktail Reception, June 9

The WPC began with an opening cocktail reception, featuring art by keynote speaker and photographer Fabien Oefner.

From left: Michael Lankin and Kaori Matsumura (both Takasago).

From left: Marguerite Gilkes, Lucy Henry (Pyrazine Specialties) and Emma Marchant (Stort Chemicals).

From left: Prabhukiran Nagaraj Vemulkar (Padmini Aromatics Pvt.Ltd.), Robby Gunawan (Pt Indesso Aroma) and Lokesh Nagaraj Vemulkar (Padmini Aromatics Pvt.Ltd.).

From left: Haiqiang Wang (Xiamen Doingcom Chemical Co., Ltd.), Herve Fretay (Givaudan) and Patrice Blaizot (Parfum Cosmetic World).

From left: Jei Mckinney and Irenee Philippe (both Encapsys), and Paige Crist (Perfumer & Flavorist).

From left: Erol Meshulam, Misel Gülçiçek and Beril Mesulam (all MG Gülçiçek International Fragrances Co.), and Gladys Gabriel (IFF).

From left: Sandra Escobar (Fragransa), Marisol Cano (Mane Colombia) and Francisco Roldan (Fragransa). A view of the cocktail reception; at center: Kent Lombard (Takasago).

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Fragrance

Davasagar Shetty and Rasika Bhide (both SH Kelkar), and Stef Korver (PFW).

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Closing Gala, June 12 The 2014 WPC closed with an evening of dinner, cocktails, dancing, and catching up with new and old colleagues.

From left: Conxa Ferrer, Nuria Bello, Jorge Miralles and Laura Morillo (all Indukern).

From left: Francisco Fernandez (Takasago), Mukesh Patel (Musks & Fragrance) and Gabriel De Gea Díaz (Takasago).

From left: Lee Beuk (A.C.S. International) and Takuya Midorikawa (Takasago).

From left: Karen Manheimer (Kerry) and Hussein Fakhry (A. Fakhry).

From left: Dian Anggraini Kusumaningrum and Della Mia Kalumata (both Pt Haldin).

From left: Toshihiko Ogasawara (T. Hasegawa Co., Ltd.), Takayuki Onuma (Morimura Bros., Inc.) and Hiroharu Kobayashi (T. Hasegawa Co., Ltd.).

From left: Christian Eberhardt and Jean-Pierre De Mattos (both Mane).

From left: Stéphane Bengana, Christian Provenzano and Dominique Preyssas (all CPL Aromas).

From left: Patrick Rogier and Pakker Dulkarny (both Robertet). From left: Michael O’Laughlin and Olivia O’Laughlin (both O’Laughlin Corp.).

From left: Sergi Sanchez, Myriam Zamora, Jorge Guerrero, Bettina Perisson, Olaf Larsen, Jayram Joshi and Alexandre Cevallos (all Eurofragrance).

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Fragrance

From left: Michael Klamm, Christel Cuyvers, Marleen Frix, Alain Frix and Michael Jones (all Renessenz).

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In this light, how does the industry capture the consumer’s attention and how does it innovate in its different spheres? Experts appear to agree that, on the consumer side, there is stronger demand in multifunctional beauty products. The traditional eau de parfum, eau de toilette and ancillary ranges may no longer be enough. Consumer research shows that many are confused by the concentrations and would rather have an interesting, distinctive product that will help them create a new scented ritual. Fragrance brands have responded by crossing over into skincare, with Chloe’s Crème de la Rose skincare range and DKNY Be Delicious Skin being two recent examples. Technical innovation for long-lasting fragrances is in high demand, with consumers all over the world wishing that their perfume lasted longer. For example, Mintel finds that 22% of American women want more lasting power out of their perfumes. For consumer needs in new markets, innovative solutions are required, such as the development of affordable aromamaterials, better malodor coverage and new delivery systems. The discussion on innovation in perfumery touched upon the role of research and science. Since moods and emotions are linked with the sense of smell, knowing more about the way the brain and the olfactory receptors work may elucidate new avenues for technology. This is still a fairly unexplored frontier, and in the next 10 years, with further developments in synthetic biology and brain imagery, fragrance research and development will likewise evolve. Better understanding the functional aspects of fragrance materials and the way scents affect people’s moods and well-being will shape new directions for innovation. With regulations creating pressures in the industry, some producers are responding by offering new and modified products. For instance, Firmenich’s Firasconea is a response to the restrictions in the damascone family. Firascone doesn’t exhibit the skin-sensitizing properties of the damascone group, while its olfactory profile is close to b-damascone—fruity and roselike, with an herbal, spicy nuance. In naturals, Biolandes has continued with its low-atranol moss essence. Producers realize that there may not be much compromise on the regulations, and they are adapting proactively. “We need to focus on performance,” noted Michael Popplewell, vice president of corporate R&D at International Flavors & Fragrances, “since the world is creating increasingly high demands on clients, customers, perfumers and researchers.” The ever-present question for the industry is into which area of innovation does a company invest? The answers range from investment into developing new ingredients to novel ways of using existing materials. As regulations limit the perfumer’s palette, the focus on investing in new materials, especially highperforming molecules and ingredients that engage the senses, becomes stronger. Each company approaches this goal in different ways, and a walk through the WPC exhibit hall revealed varying examples, from Symrise’s Vetivalb to Firmenich’s Clearwoodc. On the other hand, Claus Noppeney of Bern University cautioned that the current focus is overly research-heavy, and thus too narrow. Non-technical innovation, such as aesthetic aFirascone

is a trade name of Firmenich is a trade name of Symrise cClearwood is a trade name of Firmenich bVetival

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Fragrance

During the closing gala, from left: Daniela Knoop and Kai Kortekaas (both Symrise), Andrea Wiese (BASF), and Dirk Braun and Petra Shulz (both Symrise).

“The goal of an artist and perfumer is the same—to touch people’s emotions,” said photographer and artist Fabian Oefner in his keynote speech.

Author Victoria Frolova (Bois de Jasmin, special to P&F) and Ralf Schwieger (Mane).

innovation and design-driven innovation, and studies of the role and value of scent in society and organizations can open new avenues and complement the programs on ingredients and technical delivery. Hand-in-hand with innovation comes education. In traditional media, perfume is often portrayed as an expendable luxury, and even a dangerous one. There is a consumer misconception that “chemicals are bad,” and with the continuing discussion on allergens, there will be a need for de-demonizing synthetics, which will require a strong public education campaign.

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“The industry is not responding to what the consumers want,” said Ruth Sutcliffe, senior marketing director and designer at Coty (center); at left is moderator Jeb Gleason-Allured (P&F) and at right is Anne-Sophie Dussert, R&D head of development, Clarins.

According to Emmanuelle Moeglin (at right; Mintel), 23% of American women and 18% of American men are confused by the enormous range of product offerings; Moeglin was joined by experts, including Tanja Deurloo (at left; Independent Scent Expert and Founder, Annindriya).

“We need to focus on performance,” noted Michael Popplewell (IFF-LMR), at right, “since the world is creating increasingly high demands on clients, customers, perfumers and researchers.” His comments came during a panel featuring Thierry Audibert (Givaudan), at left, and moderator Miguel Alemañy (P&G).

From left: Perfumers Emilie Coppermann (Symrise AG) and Anne Flipo (IFF-LMR) discussed creativity.

Some of the most vibrant markets for fragrance are the Middle East and Latin America, while in Japan there has been a growing interest in sophisticated scents for functional products. Discussing the markets of Asia were, from left: Jeff Falk (in profile; GCI Magazine), Kenji Maruyama (Takasago), Shigeru Sawamura (Kao Corp.) and Kedar Vaze (Kelkar Group).

Claus Noppeney (Bern University), at left, cautioned that the current fragrance focus is overly research-heavy, and thus too narrow; Noppeney spoke during a session that also featured (at right) Christophe Laudamiel (DreamAir Studio) and Jenny Tillotson (Central Saint Martins/Sensory Design & Technology Ltd.).

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From left: Felix Mayr-Harting (Givaudan), Paige Crist (P&F) and Gilles Andrier (Givaudan).

Discussing the role of packaging design in the sensory experience of brands were (from left) Anne Abriat (Coty), Francois Duquesne (Fragrance Republic LLC) and Sandy Gregory (MWV).

As Sutcliffe observed, “We are used to development involving just three players—R&D, marketing and perfumers. We need to add the fourth one, the customer.” These customers need authentic and engaging information on the fragrances they wear.

Navigating New Markets

To attract new markets, the perfume industry needs ways to capture consumers’ imaginations and reach fragrance counters in different countries. Some of the most vibrant markets for fragrance are the Middle East and Latin America, while in Japan there has been a growing interest in sophisticated scents for functional products. But entering these markets is accompanied by varying challenges that reflect the local economic, political and social frameworks. The Middle East—in which Saudi Arabia and United Arab Emirates form 50% of the regional fragrance market—has long intrigued fragrance and beauty brands. Saudi and Emirati consumers have a sophisticated understanding of fragrance and deep knowledge of perfume rituals. This reflects the cultural predilection toward scents and the traditional use of perfume. Saudi Arabia is projected to grow its beauty market even further in the coming years, and by 2018 the market in the Middle East is projected to be valued at $43 billion. Olfactively, there has been a shift from the heady, overpowering scents to lighter, fresher creations. This blend of East and 48

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Ahmet Baydar (IFF).

“When consumers know about risks, when they can access relevant information, they can judge for themselves how to manage risks, but today when it comes to perfume, they don’t have the relevant data,” said Julie Girling, MEP for the South West, United Kingdom, European Parliament.

West can be a source of much inspiration for the creators, both domestically and abroad. One of the most enduring trends of the past few years has been oud, or agarwood. This precious resin is beloved in the Middle East for its complex aroma of tobacco, leather and chestnut honey. Oud collections like those of Tom Ford or Maison Francis Kurkdjian aim as much to give an unusual scent experience to the consumers in the West as to entice perfume lovers in the Middle East.

What is the role of perfume if not to add a touch of beauty and pleasure to the most ordinary day? In Latin America, beauty rituals are likewise important, but capturing this consumer requires a completely different approach, both in terms of olfactive profile and distribution patterns. Rapid growth in the region, a vibrant market for beauty and fragrance products, and high demand for quality products coincide with the challenges posed by import authorization and high taxation. There has been a boom in the local brands, which have to stay competitive in terms of pricing, but also offer luxury alternatives. In contrast to the opulent blends preferred in the Middle East, Latin American consumers favor fresh florals, aromatic and fruity notes, and they are likely to respond to innovative formulas that leave a cooling effect on skin.

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The future is about how the industry balances its decisions, not only in terms of profit, but also with regards to its impact on people and the environment, said Saori Dubourg (BASF), center, during a panel that also featured, at left, Jonathan Warr (Takasago) and, at right, Mickael Blais (Givaudan).

In Latin America, beauty rituals are important, but capturing this consumer requires a completely unique approach, noted a panel featuring, from left, Danielle Bibas (Avon Cosméticos Ltda.) and Fanny Moreau (Mon Absolu).

“When you peel an orange you get more limonene and citral on your skin than you do from a fragrance,” pointed out Michael Carlos (Givaudan) during a session that also featured, from left: Thomas Tindemans (H+K Strategies), Charles Cronin (University of Southern California Law School), Claire Guillemin, Expert for Trade Secrets, IP and EU Advocacy) and Florina Telea (Policy Officer, Legal Adviser, European Commission).

The Middle East—in which Saudi Arabia and United Arab Emirates form 50% of the regional fragrance market—has long intrigued fragrance and beauty brands, noted a panel that featured, from left, Izaskun Bengoechea (Euromonitor International), Jayram Joshi (Eurofragrance), Kate Williams (Seven Scent) and Irina Barbalova (Euromonitor International).

Any market new to the fragrance brands presents its own challenges, but a focus on channel priorities, value proposition and local tailoring will always be essential.

Companies can create ethical sourcing programs that prioritize sustainable practices for growing materials and offer technical and financial assistance to farmers. The major issue for most sustainability initiatives is the price. There is no denying that many sustainable technologies and ingredients often cost more, and changing the economic motivation of the clients is not always easy. Balancing price concerns with the goal of sustainability is a constant dilemma for companies, especially in light of the economic pressures on many businesses today. In the emerging markets, the price point is an even more sensitive issue, with entirely different constraints shaping the decision-making. The consensus of experts at the WPC was that the industry needs leaders to speak out on sustainability issues and to educate its customers. Messaging about how companies are developing a new technical platform that will preserve the environment and biodiversity is important. Since climate change issues are currently front and center of the environmental debate, this can be tied into sustainability. For instance, as Bernard Toulemonde, general manager of IFF-LMR Naturals, noted, the Nagoya protocol (www.cbd.int/abs/text/) forces companies to deliver information on how they protect

The Impact of Sustainability

With environmental and health issues shaping the global governmental and business agenda, sustainability is a topic that no fragrance company can ignore. As Saori Dubourg, president of the Nutrition & Health division at BASF, said, the future is about how the industry balances its decisions, not only in terms of profit, but also with regards to its impact on people and the environment. Players, both large and small, can contribute, and while businesses may operate sustainably in different ways, the main conclusion of the WPC conferences on the topic was that it is as relevant and important as ever. Sustainability creates its own innovation needs, and different companies choose different avenues, with most favoring strong investments into R&D. A company may explore biotechnology to get higher yields of raw materials or invest in molecular biology and genetics. Many study the lifecycle of materials and develop tools to better select within the existing options. 50

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The final day of the conference featured talks from (left to right) Michael Carlos (Givaudan), Patricia de Nicolaï Michau (l’Osmothèque) and Sarah Bensadoun (Fleurs d’Exception du Pays de Grasse).

From left: Paul Laroue (tru fragrance) and Francois Duquesne (Fragrance Republic LLC) discussed new strategies for reaching consumers in a multichannel world.

Conference speakers provided exotic and classic scents for attendees.

On the show floor, from left, Veronique Rossow (Phytotrade Africa) and Michel Mane (Mane).

Sustainability creates its own innovation filling the perfumer’s palette with exquisite essences, but also local heritage and traditions and supporting farming needs, and different companies choose protecting communities. different avenues, with most favoring strong New Ingredient Development Challenges investments into R&D. biodiversity, and fragrance brands in turn can communicate this to their consumers. But focusing too narrowly upon sustainability indices and lifecycle analyses misses out on the crucial component of human capital, according to the WPC experts. This is especially relevant for natural raw materials that are often outscored by their synthetic counterparts on existing indices. The jobs that agriculture generates and the extra industries it supports (such as French honey production made possible by the lavender fields) make them an important source of income in the local and national economies. As the debate on renewability continues, it is important to consider that many natural perfumery materials have the hallmark features of sustainable agricultural products and fit well into environmental programs. Since most don’t require fertilizers or rich soil, they don’t compete with food crops and can be used in conjunction with sustainable agricultural practices. Growing natural raw materials sustainably means not only 52

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One of the most critical challenges to perfumery remains the ingredients. While the need for sustainable naturals is as acute as ever, the synthetic palette is shrinking. In contrast to previous decades, the pace of new molecule introduction has slowed, while the costs of testing materials have increased. Since ingredients can be a rich source of inspiration for perfumers, fewer new materials means fewer olfactory innovations and fewer ways to differentiate one’s style and signature. Regulatory discussions are still in progress and their final outcome will become apparent only later in 2014, but it is already clear that developing high-performing molecules forms the core of research investments. This development comes in conjunction with the fragrance industry’s current focus on technical delivery, sensory perception and market research.

Changing Role of the Perfumer

Another challenge—although under the right circumstances it can also be a source of creativity—is the changing role of a perfumer. Even in the last decade, perfumers have seen their responsibilities and visibility evolve to an unprecedented degree.

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From left: Nicolas Mirzayantz (IFF) and Anneliese Wilsch-Irrgang (Henkel).

The Nagoya protocol forces companies to deliver information on how they protect biodiversity, and fragrance brands in turn can communicate this to their consumers, said Bernard Toulemonde (IFF-LMR Naturals), at right, who spoke on a sustainable ingredients panel with, from left, Jason Kelly (Ginkgo Bioworks), Torsten Kulke (Symrise AG) and Boet Brinkgreve (Firmenich).

Patrick Firmenich (center; Firmenich) and Kedar Vaze (at right; SH Kelkar).

Traditionally, perfumers worked behind the scenes, in relative isolation, which helped them form their own unique style, but also limited their interaction with other industry actors. Today, creators need to be inventive and technically skilled in different areas of perfumery. The briefs are much more numerous—but the rejection rate is higher, too—and it is essential to know how to prioritize and work as part of a large team. But the positive aspect of the changing perfumery role is that, while the number of projects an individual perfumer handles has increased, so has the availability of new tools. At their fingertips, perfumers have market research, consumer studies, regulatory information and many other data to complement their own creativity. Investment in training future perfumers is as essential as ever, emphasizing the changing nature of the perfumer’s job, the palette of ingredients and client expectations.

Allergens and Consumer Perception: Regulatory Realities Since December 2011, when the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), an advisory body for the European Commission, made a proposal on the usage of fragrance ingredients, the topic of regulation has been one of acute concern. On February 13, 2014, the SCCS published its findings, which 54

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From left: Xavier Renard (IFF) and Ruth Sutcliffe (Coty).

recommend banning three allergens (hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde [HICC], atranol and chloroatranol) and increasing the list of allergens from 26 to 89. While the shape of the final EU directive has yet to be determined, the industry has already been under scrutiny. The fragrance industry has self-regulated since 1973, when it formed the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), but with growing demands for greater transparency and accountability, its methods have been put to the test. Strong pressure is felt from consumer groups and regulatory bodies to assess the effects of perfumery ingredients. As Julie Girling, Member of the European Parliament, explained during the session titled “Building Consumer Confidence through Effective Risk Management,” political representatives are asked to manage risks, and the challenges of this endeavor to the industry are becoming clear as the regulatory debate unfolds. One of the critical elements is the need for robust methodologies on which the different parties must agree. The difficulty of testing materials is that there are few precise tools, and an element of judgment is involved. As toxicologist David Basketter said, “Ask five scientists and you will receive five different answers.” Scientists disagree on methodology, and the industry and non-industry scientific bodies come to different conclusions.

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From left, perfumers Jordi Castells (Robertet) and Emilie Coppermann (Symrise AG) discussed creativity and the changing role of perfumers.

From left, perfumers Rafael Trujillo (P&G) and Jim Krivda (Mane) discussed the state of the art of perfumery.

On the other hand, even if there can be no absolute certainty, consumers need information and tools to make informed decisions. In Girling’s words, “When consumers know about risks, when they can access relevant information, they can judge for themselves how to manage risks, but today when it comes to perfume, they don’t have the relevant data.” In the end, it is the responsibility of the industry to provide such information in an accessible and understandable format. Another important element is the cooperation among different players in both developing a robust methodology for testing ingredients and in responding to the pressures from consumer and regulatory bodies. The EU proposal has been a major impetus, and in 2012, IFRA proposed a cooperative approach which engages the various stakeholders to address issues surrounding fragrance allergens in cosmetic products. The IDEA Project (International Dialogue for the Evaluation of Allergens) was born to develop a common framework to understand the materials and standard methodologies for testing. Of course, the question remains as to how far the regulations will go and at what point reasonable concerns become irrational. As Michael Carlos, president of the fragrance division at

Givaudan, pointed out, “When you peel an orange you get more limonene and citral on your skin than you do from a fragrance.” So, should oranges be labeled too? Above all, it is clear that the regulatory political environment can be an obstacle, and the industry needs to be proactive to address the issue before it becomes a problem. There is no doubt that today’s perfumery industry professionals face many pressures and constraints, but it is too early to say that the golden days have passed. Some challenges require much work and effort to overcome, as highlighted by the various WPC discussions, but others can be a source of creativity, inspiration and, ultimately, growth. For more information on this and future conferences, visit wpc.perfumerflavorist.com. Address correspondence to Victoria Frolova, Bois de Jasmin; [email protected]. To purchase a copy of this article or others, visit www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/magazine.

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International Perfumer Meeting: Enhancing the Recognition of Perfumery Worldwide The first meeting of the international societies of perfumers, held at the 2014 World Perfumery Congress, addressed global cooperation to support perfumery.

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reserving the profession, status and knowhow of the perfumer-creator was the focus of the first global perfumer society meeting, which was held on June 10 during the World Perfumery Congress. Featuring representatives of the Société Française des Parfumeurs (SFP), Deutsche Gesellschaft der Parfümeure in der SEPAWA (DGP), British Society of Perfumers (BSP) and American Society of Perfumers (ASP), the event presented a historic opportunity for global cooperation among perfumers. During the meeting, the participants discussed a global structure for cooperation, including standardized perfumer-creator qualification expectations and universal training and knowledge criteria, in addition to key services for these professionals in corporate, regulatory and legal settings. Standardization of perfumer competencies will guarantee quality, the groups say, but also sustain the image of perfumer-creators worldwide. The criteria and global structure have been drafted and are currently under consideration by the perfumery societies. In recent years perfumer-creators have faced an environment in which many self-proclaimed perfumers are operating with no training or official status, diluting the name “perfumercreator.” Protecting the art and profession of perfumery is, thus, of paramount interest to perfumer societies around the world. A collective effort will allow the various groups to promote a unified philosophy and identity and, overall, raise perfumercreators’ profiles. With the support of its membership, the SFP has already taken steps to form its Cercle program, which has led to the official recognition of five perfumers by the French minister of culture. During a presentation by SFP representatives on June 10, the participating perfumery society representatives reportedly responded enthusiastically, and proposals for next steps were considered. A follow-up meeting is expected to take place in France in the early autumn. “We wanted to share the joy of seeing this project [progress] ... which will formalize and promote the business of perfumer-creator ... and so create a framework and a recognized qualification,” said Sylvie Jourdet, president of the SFP, in an official statement (translated from the original French). During a cocktail reception celebrating the initial meeting and future cooperation, Chris Diienno, president of the ASP and perfumer at drom, highlighted the importance of alignment and collaboration internationally. In a follow-up phone call, Diienno noted that a focus on the art of perfumery and bringing it to the fore will prevent its commodification. “I think perfumers across the globe feel this way, that there’s some erosion of the perfumer’s contribution to the actual

From left: Vincent Kuczinski (ASP; Mane), Jim Krivda (ASP; Mane), Peter Whipps (BSP), Kate Williams (BSP; Seven Scent) and John Bailey (BSP).

Pictured at the ASP perfumer cocktail party on the WPC exhibition floor were, from left: Rafael Trujillo (P&G), Ashley Wilberding (Mane), and Jose Maria Velazquez, Philip Porter and Miguel Alemañy (all P&G).

From left: Wolfgang Krause (DGP; BASF), Anneliese Wilsch-Irrgang (DGP; Henkel) and Jim Fassold (ASP; Robertet).

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

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Foreground: Sylvie Jourdet (SFP; Créassence); background: Raymond Chaillan (SFP).

From left: Patrick Saint-Yves (SFP) and Maurice Roucel (SFP; Symrise).

From left: John Gamba (ASP; Givaudan) and Chris Diienno (ASP; drom).

industry,” he explained. “Perfumery is the total fragrance, not the sum of the individual ingredients.” Bringing the “genius” of perfumery into the spotlight and building consumer understanding of the perfumer’s role, while aligning society philosophies, will ensure the longevity and integrity of the art and industry of fragrance, Diienno explained. He added, “It’s about having our industry come back to an understanding and … exposing perfumery as the art it is, the science used for artistry.” For more information, visit www.perfumers.org or www.parfumeurs-createurs.org. To purchase a copy of this article or others, visit www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/magazine. 57

2014 World Perfumery Congress Exhibition News & Notes Photos and company news gathered from the exhibition floor.

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he 2014 World Perfumery Congress exhibition provided a showcase for dozens of international ingredient suppliers and service providers to do business, network and announce new initiatives. Here, P&F provides a selection of announcements. Agrumaria Corleone presented its organic and non-organic lemon, orange and mandarin essential oils, which were either cold-pressed or distilled. These included conca d’oro, a furocoumarin-free colorless lemon oil, and conca d’oro mandarin oil. Al-Can Exports presented its aluminum bottle packaging expertise for the essential oil, flavor and fragrance industries. All bottles were U.N.-certified (X category) for transportation and storage of dangerous goods, and Drug Master File (DMF) 111 compliant. Al-Can exports to more than 37 countries worldwide and features high-tech production equipment and customization capabilities such as spray painting, logo embossing and lacquering. Albert Vieille presented its Café Sublimé ingredient, a coffee extract produced in cooperation with a Salvadoran partner. The extract is based on arabica coffee, which comes from bushy shrubs growing at an altitude between 1,000 m and 1,500 m on the volcanic range south of El Salvador. Coffee cherries are brought to coffee-processing units with the beans dried in the sun and roasted. The resulting extract is obtained through additional processing and filtration to create an alcohol-soluble coffee ingredient that is rich and intense. BASF presented aroma ingredients based on its citral value chain, including geraniol, citronellol, linalool and l-menthol. The company’s citral is nature-identical to the main component of many essential oils like lemongrass, and is used for fresh-citrus and fruity notes in fragrances and flavors. Citronellol is used for a fresh, powerful and long-lasting rose fragrance, and is a valuable component for fresh-floral compounds. l-Menthol is

used for cool freshness in various products in oral care, body care, flavorings and pharmaceutical applications. The company recently announced the joint investment of about $500 million with Petronas Chemicals Group in an integrated aroma ingredients complex in Kuantan, Malaysia. The first new plants of the complex are expected to come on-stream in 2016 and will create about 120 new employment opportunities. Berjé introduced its Farm to Fragrance program, a traceability system for essential oils, which allows customers to track ingredients by batch number back to the distillery and the cultivation source. The system also allows for a more direct connection between perfumers and distillers by providing access to raw material data, farm practice and distillation techniques. The online interface provides a map of the growing region, the identities of farms involved in production, slideshows of distilleries and information on the raw material. The growing region information includes climatological data and botanical descriptions, while farm “biographies” include photos, location, hectare totals, growing practices, photos and more. Biolandes presented marshmallow absolute (F1450), which is obtained from the dried roots of the marshmallow plant and has a mineral and metallic top note, with overtones of leather, which harmonizes well with juniper berry. Licorice roasted 70%/MPG (F9863) is extracted from roasted licorice roots, offering the aroma of grilled peanut with a spicy edge evocative of cashew nuts. Armoise Inco 100 (F0367) is obtained from the herbaceous Artemisia herba-alba shrub by extraction followed by molecular distillation to reveal a different facet of this plant. Its mild, menthol-like green notes evolve toward a fig leaf inflection, creating a syrupy effect reminiscent of barley water, with subtle spice touches of cinnamon bark. Ambreine (F0049) production has been revitalized by the start-up of Biolandes’ new sustainable, eco-friendly gum labdanum extraction unit in Andalusia. This ingredient has unique facets of amber and leather, while the resin lends base notes an oilbanumlike quality with woody accents. Contexa showcased its expertise in the engineering and production of automatic compounding machines for flavors and fragrances. The company presented Colibri, a volumetric dosing system for liquids with any physical properties, and Niagara, a robot capable of dosing bulk liquids at a rate of up to 15 m3 per hour.

Connect with a Supplier For supplier information and contacts, write to Jeb Gleason-Allured; [email protected]. BASF exhibition. Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

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Robertet exhibition.

Firmenich exhibition.

DRT displayed ingredients produced via bio-based chemistry utilizing rosin and turpentine extracted from pine, including Sylvamber, which is powerful, woody, cedrous, ambery, warm and has strong tenacity. Intended for fine fragrance, personal care and air care, the ingredient can play a role in rounded and long-lasting perfumes. The company is planning to launch a biomass power station, which is expected to substitute fossil energy consumption, leading to a zero-CO2-emission site for its production. DRT is also constructing “a new platform” in the southeast United States for the “management of raw materials.” Diffusions Aromatiques highlighted its expertise in natural ingredients (including CO2 extracts), organic products and aroma chemical raw materials. Serving the flavor, fragrance and cosmetics industry, the company underscored its global sourcing network and contacts with quality producers. Du Bois, in conjunction with Asia Plantation Capital Distilleries, presented pure oud oil, which is produced from sustainable plantations. There has been increasing demand for the product, which has traditional and even spiritual connotations, while also offering olfactory value for haute perfumery. Oud oil has a near mythical status and fast-growing demand from the cosmetics industry. The oud oil on display is produced under “consistent quality and standards” and has softer tones and less of an animalic note compared to traditional types. Each 1 kg bottle is sealed at the source, and the age and planting date of the trees recorded to maximize traceability. Asia Plantation Capital plants at least 20 new trees for every oud tree harvested, boosting sustainability. Each oil comes with CITES certification, “guaranteeing the sustainability of the oil produced and ensuring it is legal.” This refined version of oud oil was produced as part of a “soil to oil” program that involves academics and industrial production-line experts. The company notes, “Every stage of the process from initial plantation stock and land selection, to the inoculation techniques and end processing systems have been subjected to rigorous scientific analyses and review.” In addition to its ingredients such as amyl and methyl cinnamic aldehyde, benzaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, and C6, C8 and C10 linear aldehydes, Emerald Kalama Chemical showcased its new launch, methyl benzoate. The ingredient reportedly has a “sweet, heady floral odor reminiscent of tropical flower varieties—with some balsamic or spicy undertones,” and is based on non-phthalate benzoate chemistry. The material is intended for use in personal care (including shampoos, shower products, face/neck care products, body care, liquid soaps, hair colorants and cosmetics, and mouthwash), fragrance, and food

and beverage applications, and for a base in fine fragrances such as those featuring tropical ylang-ylang flower notes. Encapsys presented its chemistry solutions for the fragrance industry. The company works with fragrance providers to offer performance solutions designed around its EnSensa microencapsulation technology. Along with Firascone (olfactively the closest non-sensitizing ingredient to the rose ketones) and Z11 (a dry and elegant precious wood), Firmenich launched its trademarked Clearwood ingredient at the 2014 WPC. The material is created via fermentation of sugarcane, producing a material that is patchoulol-rich, with woody and patchouli notes. The ingredient’s development is aligned with the company’s focus on environmental impact, says Julien Firmenich, particularly as no volatile solvent is required, while the feedstock is renewable and produced in a region benefitting from heavy rainfall. Meanwhile, the biotechnology process involves a simple, calibrated fermentation not unlike beer brewing. The result is an affordable price structure and an efficient production process. Firmenich adds that the launch of this ingredient is “just the beginning” for biotech ingredients. In the future, he says, this platform will allow further innovation on existing ingredients. In addition, new/novel chemicals will be produced for the perfumer’s palette. While Firmenich says the Clearwood launch is “an important and encouraging milestone” for the company’s biotechnology platform, he adds that the organization remains committed to “traditional” chemistry, which will continue to be a source of innovation, perhaps in conjunction with biotechnologically produced materials. Firmenich perfumer Wessel-Jan Kos describes Clearwood’s profile as, “Enlightening and offering a creamy warmth of

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Takasago exhibition.

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Givaudan exhibition.

Mane exhibition.

amber … with dark woody notes.” In formulations, Clearwood can deliver richness for modern chypres that eschew patchouli’s traditional “dirty” notes. Kos adds, “When used as a building block, Clearwood brings a soft creaminess reminiscent of natural sandalwood.” In addition to its ingredient offerings, Givaudan announced the launch of the Givaudan Foundation, an independent nonprofit organization focusing on three main areas: communities at source (support of local communities from which Givaudan sources natural ingredients), blindness and family nutrition. Matthias Währen, Givaudan’s CFO, will be president of the group’s board of trustees. The foundation has already launched several projects in Haiti, Laos, Madagascar and Comoros Islands. Global Essence presented its ranges of fragrance raw materials, including absolutes, English essential oils and native extracts. IFF-LMR presented contemporary takes on classic ingredients, including LMR Rose Ultimate Extract produced with an updated extraction process, netting a material that has notes of fruit, honey, tobacco and rose; LMR Rose Essential Low ME, which has a low methyl eugenol content; LMR Cinnamon Essential, which is spicy and floral, the result of a new extraction process; and LMR ylang absolute, described as a “radiant and warm solar floral, with tiare flower accents,” which features a salicylate/salty note to boost greenness in formulations. Indesso Aroma presented Florinol, a natural aroma chemical that gives more than 99% mosquito repellent efficacy over eight hours (applied in hand/body lotion, tested by an independent laboratory). Florinol is a non-allergenic substance with

floral, green and sweet notes. The ingredient addresses the need for leave-on skincare to address anthropod insect bites, which, according to World Health Organization statistics, kill one person every 30 seconds. There are various essential oils containing molecules that have such efficacy. Jiangsu presented its lily aldehyde, a colorless to pale yellow liquid with a sweet and fresh scent of lily. Jiangsu was founded in 2011 and manufactures synthetic fragrance and flavor ingredients for the cosmetics, personal care, soap, detergent and toiletry markets. The company recently received ISO 9001 and kosher certificates. Nactis, through its Synarome brand, launched new products inspired by Deauville. Taking a cue from the seaside town’s hallmarks—the sea, Norman countryside and horse races— these new creations boosted the imagination of the brand’s clients, functional perfumery and fine fragrance perfumers. The company’s anisaldehyde diethyl acetal had a delicate, mild floral-sweet odor that was hawthornlike, with almond and cherry nuances, on a sweet-soft balsamic and powdery background. Algenone white was a modern interpretation of algenone that was more transparent and musky than the original. Vetiverol BM was an earthy and natural, fine and elegant vetiver note. p-Cresyl caprylate had an intense animalic and fur note with green and hay aspects. Cuir HF is a harmonious, classic leather scent with a fresh citrus (bergamot) top note fused with a floral (orris and violet) spicy head, rounded off by precious woods and musky tones. Cuir de Russie was a strong and powerful classical leather material that began with aldehydes married to an orange blossom heart. O’Laughlin presented its latest additions to its expanding product line, including Cyclemal, which utilizes a new process to achieve improved performance at a lower cost, and floral anise forte, which gives a more cost-effective option compared to conventional offerings, and raspberry ketal, which is no longer cost-prohibitive. Organica Aromatics presented 14 new products, including Geosmin, Galbutenon, Iris OA, Strawberone, IBQ and Floral Dec. The company is a niche, research-driven, specialty aroma ingredients manufacturer based out of Bangalore, India, and is a subsidiary of Sabinsa Corp. USA. To highlight 100 years of history in the flavor and fragrance industry, PFW highlighted a number of products, including Emeraldine and a sneak preview of Product CF, a new, unique aroma chemical soon to enter the fragrance ingredients market. The company also presented isojasmone and cyclomyral, along

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with more recent introductions such as sagecete. PFW presented a tropical showcase off the show floor, which included a focus on Tropicate, which works in many product categories and across a multitude of fragrance directions. Payan Bertrand presented its HTC range of high-temperature dry distillations of concretes, gums and balsams. These traditional products were enhanced using technology to comply with regulations to reduce PAH and BTEX contents and offer a colorless and stable liquid form that is highly soluble. The company’s Terima Kasih Indonesia Specialties include a new colorless patchouli quality from Aceh’s mountains in Indonesia, a low-pressure java vetiverol fraction, which enhances powdery orris aspects and fresh sparkling accents, and benzoin Sumatra colorless, which results from a strict selection of benzoin white tears. In addition, Payan Bertrand presented its new natural blend range, including jasmine and neroli. Primechem presented its range of synthetic and natural lactones. Primechem’s most recent product launches include cis-jasmone, dihydrojasmone, lactone of cis-jasmone, methyl-2-nonenoate and rose oxide (by photo-oxidation). Provence Naturals highlighted sustainable essential oils, particularly lavender, lavandin and clary sage from France. The materials are produced in partnership with Comité Interprofessionnel des Huiles Essentielles Françaises and FranceAgriMer. Safisis, a subsidiary of the Lesaffre group, presented its Safrom (production of natural aromatic molecules by fermentation) and Saftoll (customized fermentation service) molecules, which are natural in accordance with EU(1334/2008) an US- (FDA 101.22(3)) guidelines. Safisis has built a new distillation workshop specializing in natural vanillin downstream processing, with the first production starting this summer. SensaPeel displayed its samplers for essential oils, aromatic chemicals and fragrance materials that utilize a medium that is malleable and publishable, and which allows potential customers to interact with manufacturers’ products. Sealed between two layers of film, the fragrance inside remains unharmed until the film is peeled back and the fragrance released, yielding a personal and faithful sample of the fragrance. Sud Graphic presented its expertise in manufacturing blotters, smelling strips and by-products for the cosmetic and perfume industry. Sud Graphic is one of the first companies to obtain both Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) and Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certificates.

PFW exhibition.

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Symrise exhibition.

Symrise displayed Ambrocenide Cryst, described as “a powerful ambery, warm woody aroma molecule that has the crystalline quality of Ambrocenide”; Mysore Acetate, which had floral, fruity, violet and woody notes, which can be used in compositions to boost fruit notes or deliver “body” to violetfloral compositions; the spicy Poivrol, with notes of pepper, laurel leaf and wood; and Vetival, which has notes of vetiver, wood, citrus and floralcy, which can be used for “radiant, grapefruity” top notes, as well as “soft ionic-floralcy” for vetiiver compositions. TFS launched its first commercial supply of plantation-grown sandalwood. Santalol oil is produced from the Santalum album trees grown naturally in plantations in Australia’s tropical north. TFS has grown, processed and distilled the oil, creating a new level of transparency in the global sandalwood market, according to the company, where ongoing Indian export bans and declining wild supplies have led to widespread adulteration and poaching. Santalum album is now nearing extinction in the wild. TFS manages the world’s largest area of S. album plantations and, in 2014, completed its first commercial harvests of about 15,000 trees. TFS recently announced two major agreements with a global pharmaceutical company, which include the licensing of dermatology products containing TFS plantation-grown Indian sandalwood oil. Takasago introduced optically active fragrance ingredients derived from renewable myrcene, including Levocitrile. The company’s Thesaron is manufactured using renewable bioethanol, and has a 100% biobased index, according to the company. This approach contrasts with conventional rose ketones, which are produced with petroleum feedstocks and can be sensitizing on skin. (Read more about the company’s activities with Amyris on Page 34.) Ventós presented labdanum coeur, which has a strong odor of Cistus landaniferus obtained using a short-path distiller. The company’s patchouli cristallisé is obtained by concentration of patchouli oil and subsequent refinement by molecular distillation. The material comprises 80% patchouli alcohols and “goes straight into the undertones of patchouli oil, avoiding the top earthy and herbaceous notes,” according to the company. Ventós cedarwood Atlas Supra maintains the essence of the original oil, but increases the balsamic and oriental top notes, “giving a powerful product with a luxurious tenacity.” Ventós also displayed Mediterranean pine obtained by steam distillation of Pinus halepensis splinters, giving an authentic pine odor. To purchase a copy of this article or others, visit www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/magazine.

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Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials Judith Michalski, Senior Flavorist, abelei flavors; [email protected]

Panelists • Judith Michalski • Cyndie Lipka, Senior Flavorist, Bell Flavors & Fragrances • Gerard Mosciano, Consulting Flavor Chemist • Robert Pan, Senior Consulting Flavorist • Deborah Barber, Senior Scientist, Kraft Foods • Carl Holmgren, Consulting Flavor Chemist • Tom Gibson, Cyndie Lipka, Senior Flavorist, Bell Flavors & Fragrances

Ω-6-Hexadecenlactone, natural (synonym: ambrettolide)

Source: Fleurchem Inc. FEMA# 2555, CAS# 7779-50-2, natural Odor: @ 1%. Musky, perfumy, powdery and berrylike. Taste: @ 0.2 ppm. Musky, perfumy, floral, berrylike and powdery. Taste: @ 0.5 ppm. Musky, perfumy, powdery, waxy and soapy. Possible applications: It is well known that a very little musk will go a long, long way. This particular material is no exception, and will enhance blackberries and blueberries, raspberry, cherry, pear and red licorice, and all blends thereof. Fleurchem Inc.; www.fleurchem.com

Methyl laurate, natural

Source: SAFC FEMA# 2715, CAS# 111-82-0, natural Natural occurrence: Apple, banana, blackberry, cheese, cognac, coconut, papaya, melon, mussel, rum, star fruit and turnip. Odor: @ 100%. Soapy, waxy, fatty and crayonlike. Taste: @ 1 ppm. Waxy, fatty and soapy with a dairy nuance. Taste: @ 2 ppm. Sweet, soapy, waxy and astringent. Possible applications: Used sparingly, methyl laurate will endow dairy flavors with body and fattiness, especially hard cheeses, butter, milk and cream. It can also be considered to amplify the fatty acid complex in fat replacer flavors. SAFC; www.sigmaaldrich.com/safc

Ethyl phenylacetate, natural

Source: SAFC FEMA# 2452, CAS# 101-97-3, natural Natural occurrence: Apple, beer, cocoa, guava, honey, olive, melon, papaya, pineapple, plum and grapefruit.

Odor: @ 1%. Sweet, floral, honeylike and cocoalike, with a slight animallic undertone. Taste: @ 2 ppm. Honeylike, sweet, floral and fruity. Taste: @ 4 ppm. Floral, honeylike and sweet, with a chocolate nuance. Possible applications: The sweet, floral, fruity notes of this ester will enhance the ripeness of yellow fruits like peach, apricot, mango, papaya, guava, apple and pear. Its honeylike profile will fit very nicely into brown flavors like honey, chocolate, brown sugar, molasses, maple and dried fruits, namely prune, raisin and fig. SAFC; www.sigmaaldrich.com/safc

2-Octanone, natural

Source: SAFC FEMA# 2802, CAS# 111-13-7, natural Natural occurrence: Apple, butter, cheddar cheese, rice, cocoa, mushroom, krill, milk and potato chips. Odor: @ 1%. Blue cheeselike, ketonic, waxy, earthy, musty, creamy and mushroomlike. Taste: @ 1 ppm. Solventlike, waxy, cheesy and musty, with a dairy nuance. Taste: @ 2 ppm. Blue cheeselike, ketonic, waxy, slightly moldy, creamy and mushroomlike. Possible applications: This product will especially enrich the profiles of cultured dairy products, including cultured butter, sour cream, buttermilk, cottage cheese, kefir and moldripened cheeses like Brie, St. André, blue and Gorgonzola. Other flavors where it will contribute to the earthy complex are mushroom, cantaloupe and cucumber. SAFC; www.sigmaaldrich.com/safc

a-Iso-methylionone

Source: Vigon FEMA# 2714, CAS# 127-51-5 Not yet found in nature. Odor: @ 1%. Sweet, raspberrylike, woody, floral and powdery. Taste: @ 0.5 ppm. Sweet, berrylike, fruity, floral and powdery. Taste: @ 1 ppm. Woody, berrylike, fruity and floral. Possible applications: This powerful ionone will complement the woody, floral complex of berry flavors like red and black raspberries, blackberry, cherry, blueberry and grape, as well as red licorice, Swedish fish and fruit punch. Vigon; www.vigon.com

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2,6,6-Trimethylcyclohex-2-ene-1,4-dione (synonym: ketoisophorone) Source: Vigon FEMA# 3421, CAS# 1125-21-9 Natural occurrence: Lemon balm, mate, saffron, shrimp, tea, tobacco. Odor: @ 100%. Sweet, tealike and slightly cooling, with a molasses note. Taste: @ 5 ppm. Tealike, slightly fruity and slightly brown. Taste: @ 10 ppm. Tealike, with a brown, dried fruitlike undertone. Possible applications: Black tea, raisin, fig and prune are good applications for this component. Its fruity notes will also enliven the profiles of raspberry, blackberry, fig, peach, apricot, mango, melon, tobacco and davana-replacer flavors. Vigon; www.vigon.com

Isophorone

Source: SAFC FEMA# 3553, CAS# 78-59-1 Natural occurrence: Papaya, patchouli oil, cabbage, cranberry, roasted hazelnut, labdanum, grapefruit, macadamia nut and mushroom. Odor: @ 1%. Sweet cooling, fruity, berrylike and slightly brown, with a hint of honey. Taste: @ 5 ppm. Slightly floral, honeylike and slightly brown. Taste: @ 10 ppm. Floral, berrylike, honeylike and dried fruitlike, with a cooling lift. Possible applications: The interesting combination of notes in this material can be well-used in diverse flavors like honey, mead, maple, tobacco, dried fruit, raspberry, blueberry, cherry, peach, mango, apricot, and herbal and black tea. SAFC; www.sigmaaldrich.com/safc

Taste: @ 50 ppm. Brown and rummy, with a hint of hazelnut. Possible applications: Brown flavors are the obvious choices for this material’s use, including coffee, caramel, bread crust, butterscotch, toffee, mocha, dulce de leche and vanilla. Other areas where it will add to the casky character are in brown liquor flavors like bourbon, rum and whiskey. Advanced Biotech; www.adv-bio.com

Methyl 2-furoate, natural

Source: SAFC FEMA# 2703, CAS# 611-13-2, natural Natural occurrence: Coffee, hazelnut, blackberry, Cognac, peanut, honey, passion fruit, guava, dried bonito, peanut and wine. Odor: @ 1%. Rubberlike, chemical, burnt, brown and sweet. Taste: @ 1 ppm. Sweet, brown and burnt. Taste: @ 2 ppm. Astringent, sweet, brown, burnt sugarlike and slightly bread crustlike. Possible applications: Used carefully, this material can enhance brown notes in caramel, burnt sugar, tobacco, rum, smoked meats, roasted nuts, and baked-type flavors like bread crust, cookies and toasted coconut. SAFC; www.sigmaaldrich.com/safc To purchase a copy of this article or others, visit www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/magazine.

2-Octanol, natural

Source: SAFC FEMA# 2801, CAS# 123-96-6, natural Natural occurrence: Geranium oil, mint, rue oil and lavender. Odor: @ 1%. Waxy, earthy, mushroomlike, cheesy and oily. Taste: @ 0.5 ppm. Creamy, waxy, cheesy, earthy and mushroomlike. Taste: @ 1 ppm. Mushroomlike, earthy, waxy, blue cheeselike and creamy. Possible applications: The creamy, waxy notes of octanol will add richness and depth to many dairy flavors, especially those that have been subjected to heat, like dulce de leche, condensed milk and melted butter. Mold-ripened and aged cheeses are also good applications, as are mushroom, coconut and animal fat-replacer flavors. SAFC; www.sigmaaldrich.com/safc

2-Methyltetrahydrofuran-3-one, natural (synonym: coffee furanone)

Source: Advanced Biotech FEMA# 3373, CAS# 3188-00-9, natural Natural occurrence: Coffee, cocoa, tobacco, pumpkin, beef, chicken and hazelnuts. Odor: @ 100%. Solventlike, brown and slightly pyrazinelike, with a whiskey endnote. Taste: @ 25 ppm. Nutty, brown, caramellic and alcoholic. 67

Progress in Essential Oils Brian M. Lawrence, Consultant

Mountain Savory Oil

Savory oil of commerce is known to be produced from both Satureja hortensis L. and Satureja montana L. This latter member of the Lamiaceae is a perennial taxon that can exist in numerous subspecies forms, although the one commonly used for oil production is S. montana L. subsp. montana, which can be found growing from Spain to southern Albania. An oil of S. montana obtained from plants grown experimentally in the Pisa area from cuttings collected from plants growing in Val di Vara (Italy) was the subject of analysis by Angelini et al. (2003). They found that the main components of this oil were: a-pinene (0.8%) camphene (0.2%) b-pinene (0.2%) myrcene (1.9%) a-terpinene (2.0%) p-cymene (9.7%) limonene (0.4%) 1,8-cineole (0.2%) g-terpinene (13.2%) linalool (0.3%) borneol (0.7%) terpinen-4-ol (0.1%) thymol (0.3%) carvacrol (56.8%) b-caryophyllene (3.6%) germacrene D (0.4%)

using 1.5–2.0 mL of methylene chloride in an ultrasonic bath for 30 min. After filtration, the extract was directly analyzed using GC/MS only. The variability of 11 selected components of 33–40 analyses of all populations, except for the one from Utelle, can be seen in T-1. The variability in the quantitative results is not unexpected, even though the plants harvested were all flowering, because the small sample taken from each plant was not sufficient to average out within plant variation that is known to occur within the Lamiaceae family. Finally, it was revealed that the population from Utelle was mixed between the carvacrol forms and the linalool forms so that data will not be reported. Satureja montana plants that were collected in Dalmatia (Croatia) were dried and subjected to hydrodistillation by Radonic and Milos (2003). Analysis of this oil revealed that it was thymolrich, the full composition of which was reported to be as follows: a-thujene (1.0%) a-pinene (1.0%) a-terpinene (3.5%) g-terpinene (5.9%) p-cymene (6.4%) allo-ocimene (0.6%)

Chizzola (2003) examined the compositions of the volatiles of four populations of S. montana from France. The populations were collected from Utelle (Alpes-Maritime at 830–850 m), Rougon (Alpes-de-Haute-Provence at 950 m), Mont Ventou (Vaucluse at 1080–1090 m) and Plateau de Gras (Ardéche at 210 m). The first three populations were found growing in the pre-Alps limestone region, while the fourth was growing west of the Rhone on a limestone plateau. The author obtained representative volatile concentrates by extracting 0.2–0.3 g of the leaves of single plants

1-octen-3-ol (0.7%) trans-sabinene hydrate (0.2%) linalool (0.6%) methyl thymol (5.1%) methyl carvacrol (5.8%) b-caryophyllene (2.3%) borneol (3.9%) a-humulene (0.3%) a-elemene (0.3%)† b-bisabolene (1.1%) geranyl acetate (2.1%) nerol (1.1%) geraniol (5.0%) thymol (45.2%) carvacrol (5.3%) †incorrect

identification based on GC elution order

Trace amounts (>0.1%) of b-pinene, terpinolene, a-copaene, b-bourbonene, b-cubebene, zingiberene, g-cadinene, d-cadinene, a-muurolene, neral, geranial and 3-phenylpropanol were also characterized in this oil. Skocibusic and Bezic (2004a) screened an oil of S. montana for its antimicrobial activity. The oil, which was produced by hydrodistillation from plants collected from the sub-Mediterranean region of Biokovo Mountain (Croatia), was analyzed by GC/MS only. The constituents characterized in this oil were as follows:

T-1. Percentage composition of the volatiles in three populations of Satureja montana Compound

Rougon

Mont Ventou

Plateau de Gras

myrcene a-terpinene p-cymene limonene g-terpinene linalool borneol thymoquinone methyl carvacrol carvacrol b-bisabolene

0.6–2.2 0.9–2.8 0.9–2.8 0.4–2.3 0.8–2.6 0.8–2.9 0–34.4 7.0–25.1 0–20.8 0.2–5.9 0–4.6 0.1–4.4 3.2–20.5 4.7–24.0 4.9–22.5 0.5–2.5 0.4–4.0 0.5–4.2 0.1–3.2 0.3–3.2 0.4–2.4 0.4–6.1 0.1–5.9 0.1–2.5 0–4.1 0–9.5 0–0.3 31.6–65.0 32.4–67.8 31.7–.62.0 0.4–3.8 0.3–4.0 0.5–3.8

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munich

paris

new york

guangzhou

hong kong

sydney

milan

são paulo

shanghai

moscow

jakarta

a-thujene (1.8%) a-pinene (1.0%) myrcene (0.8%) a-terpinene (1.5%) g-terpinene (8.1%) p-cymene (12.6%) 1-octen-3-ol (0.7%) linalool (0.5%) methyl thymol (2.3%) methyl carvacrol (11.0%) aromadendrene (