Pattern Drafting & Grading - M Rohr

MISSES'

JUNIOR'S,

AND

WOMEN'S

Page 3

(Revised Edition)

STYLE 1

FRONT II

I

BACk

Side and waist darts for smoother fit over the bust. Using the dress bodice front,make a side dart in pattern as follows: I and II Slash along dotted I ine (A to B); then spread and make the waist dart 2' wide at waistline as shown in diagram II. Draw V-shaped I ines for each dart (2' away from pivoting point B) as shown by dotted I ines. III and IV Using the dress bodice back, shorten waist dart 1'.

FRONT

@) .

II

.

BACK

STYLE 2 III

The tucks at waistline g1ve the bodice a softer effect below the bust than with dart fitting •

IV

I and II Trace bodice front of Style 1; then replace the waist dart by making 2 tucks,2 ' high, and drawing the 4 lines I' apart, parallel to center front. III and IV Repeat process for making the 2 tucks in back;then add 1/2' toside seamatwaistline as shown bydotted I i nes.

STYLE 3

FRONT II

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FRONT

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BACK III

IV

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(Front) and III (Back) Lower the neck I i ne, raise the armho I e, and reduce the width at top of side seam as shown by dot ted I i nes. II (Front) and IV (Back) Reduce 1/4' at center front and back neckline to nothing at waist! ine. This wi II keep bodice from stand i ng away at lower part of neck. I

DRESS

II

B

Sleeveless dress bodice with scooped neckline. A sleeveless dress is usually closer fitting (about 2') around bust. The depth of the armhole is raised about 3/4'.

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I

II

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BACK

FOUNDATION - HIP LENGTH

I - FRONT Using the dr ess bodice front, make side and waist dartsasshown i n style I above, but when spreading for side dart, make wa1st dart 12' wide instead of 2'.

Draft the hip length sections as follows: A to B- 6-1/2 ' (waist to hipline). B to C- EQuals bust I ine D to E. SQuare at B. C to F - Connect. II - WAIST DART B toG- EQuals H to I ;then connect from J toG to K to complete the waist dart. Lower the hi pi ine 1/4" at center front to nothing at side seam. III - BACK Use the dress bodice back to draft the hip section as fol lov.s: L to M - 7 • ( wa i s t to h i p I i ne) . M toN- EQuals bustl ine 0 toP. SQuare atM. N to Q- Connect. IV - WA I'ST DART M to R - EQuals S to T at top of dart;then connect from U to R to V to camp I ete the waist dart.

IV

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JUNIOR'S

HISSES '

AND

WOMEN'S

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For

JUNIOR

SIZES

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