Para Cord Bracelet Jig

UNIQUE PARACORD BRACELET/NECKLACE TYING JIG-REVISITED

I decided to redesign the bracelet tying jig because no matter what I tried, after I painted it, when I would try to reposition the slide, it was always stuck and I would have to prize it up with a screwdriver to move it. IF YOU DECIDE TO BUILD ONE OF THESE, DON'T PAINT IT (YOU COULD PROBABLY STAIN IT). The main difference in this design is the ruler and ruler guide, I was going to put a ruler on last time but the design wouldn't allow it. To make this jig easy for everyone to build, I decided to design it so that it would require only a few cuts (five cuts are required, if you use the same size boards as shown). With the new design, you no longer have to measure where to place the bottom slider because a ruler is built-in, and with the ruler guide, accurate measurement measurement is as easy as 1-2-3. Here is the list of materials (all can be purchased from Lowes or other lumber company): • • • • • • • • • • • •

(1) 3/8 x 6 x 24 Select S elect Pine Craft Board | Item #: 50237 ($3.09) (1) 3/8 x 4 x 24 Select S elect Pine Craft Board | Item #: 50234 ($2.18) (2) 3/8 x 2 x 24 Select S elect Pine Craft Board | Item #: 50226 ($2.56) (1) The Hillman Group Brass Plated Safety Cup Hook 7/8" | Item #: 330639 330639 ($1.18) (1) Elmer's 4 Oz. Carpenter's Wood Glue | Item #: 41148 ($1.98) (1) IDEAL 3/8" Cable Clamp 15 pack pack | Item Item #: 48294 48294 ($1.58) (2) Fender Washers ($0.20) (1) 1/4-20 x 1 Bolt ($0.15) (1) 1/4 Wing Nut (?) (6) ¾” screws to temporarily secure the boards in place while cutting the rails Invisible Tape (glue could be used) Printable Ruler  o Download my Download  my ruler (right-click the image and select "Save Image As..." o Download a variety of different rulers to print here

Materials Note: This project can be completed with different materials using different types of wood and board thicknesses, but to use different board sizes you must refer to the bottom of the Plans image. BUILDING THE BRACELET TYING JIG PREPARING THE PAPER RULER First, decide which ruler you want to use and go ahead and print it out. Then, cut the dotted lines only. Now, using either paper glue or invisible tape, join each of the lengths of the ruler together. Notice on three of the ruler cutouts that the first two inches don’t have a number, this is by design, starting with the ruler cut-out that starts with “8”, slide the first two inches underneath the first cut-out. You should be able to s ee through the paper enough to

tell where the long vertical mark is underneath, slide it even with the top “7” line. Continue to do this with the other two cut-outs and you will end up with a twenty-five inch paper ruler. CUTTING THE VERTICAL SLOT Starts by using your router to rout a slot down the middle of the four inch wide board, the exact dimensions are on the plans image. If you don't have a router you can use a drill with a bit the size of the slot to be cut and a circular saw. Drill two holes, one on each end of the slot, then mark two lines the length of the slot that will be the thickness of the slot. Now make two passes with the circular saw by cutting both lines you just marked. Once cut, the slot should fall out  since you drilled the two outside corners already, depending on the thickness of the slot, you may need to make another pass with the circular saw to remove all material in the slot. This step sounds much harder than it actually is but I wanted to make the instructions clear. CUTTING AND PLACING THE RAILS Gather all four boards and place them together, then center the 3/8x6x24 underneath the other three boards as shown in the image below, the rail boards (3/8x2x24) will be sticking over the edge slightly (refer to the image below). Now grab some screws and temporarily secure all boards in place (you can use the Wood Glue to secure the rails in place but don't use any glue on the center board). Once secured, use the circular saw to rip the edges of the rail boards even with the 3/8x6x24 board (two cuts are required, cut at the dotted line of the image below).

FINISHING CUTS Now remove the screws that are holding the center board in place. Use the plans image for directions on cutting the 3/8x4x24 board, there will be three cuts. Measure your bottom board (3/8x6x24) to find out the exact width of  the board because it won’t be exactly six inches (mine was 5-3/8” wide). Once you measure the board you will know how wide to cut the ruler guide.

 ASSEMBLY  Now that all of the boards are cut, you should have six boards (four if the rails are secured to bottom board). Glue the backside of the top board (the two inch piece), and then place it on the bottom board. Place the slider board (the four inch piece) on the bottom board. Glue the top of the slider board and place the ruler guide board (the one inch piece) on top of the slider board (this board should be even on both sides with the bottom board). •

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Measure to find the center of the slider board and then drill a hole wide enough for your bolt to pass through. Place the paper ruler on the left side of the rails; make sure the start of the ruler is even with the bottom edge of the top board (the two inch piece). Then secure the ruler in place using invisible tape, I made s ure to cover the entire paper surface of the ruler so that it won’t hang on the ruler guide and it will be easier to clean should it get d irty. Measure the width of the top board (the two inch piece). Mark three spots (try to center the marks) for your buckles and hook (I placed the hook in the middle spot on mine). Remember your measurements you made on the top board and transfer the m arks to the ruler guide on the slider board and then screw down the cable clamps and hook. Since there is limited space for attachments, you should pick the buckle sizes that you use most often.

THE FINISHED JIG

USING THE JIG The jig can be used to tie all sorts of ties where you need tension on the strands to tie it.

If you are tying a bracelet or other design that uses buckles, follow these directions: 1. Attach the male end of the buckle to the female end mounted to the jig and vice versa for the other end. 2. Now set the jig to the size of bracelet or other design d esign you will be tying, i.e. 7½ inches. 3. From here all you have to do is continue as you would normally tie the knot design using buckles. If you are tying a bracelet or other design that doesn’t use buckles, see the images below.  Solomon Bar Bracelet  Bracelet 

Over-and-Under Weave