Operation Breakdown of a Jacket

COLOUR CODE FOR SEAM DIAGRAMS

OPERATION BREAKDOWN SECTION: (A) FRONT OPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME

A01

SEAM DIAGRAM

MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

SEW GORE TO FRONT

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A02

SEW TAPE TO ARMHOLE

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A03

SEW TAPETO SHOULER

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

301

SIDE POCKETS WITH FLAP: A04

RUN STITCH FLAP WITH FUSIBLE INTERLINING ON HALF OF THE FLAP

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

A05

TURN AND FORM FLAP

A06

MAKE SLIT

TURNING MACHINE OR MANUAL TURNING LASER SLIT MAKING MACHINE/ MANUAL SCISSORS

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

A07

SEW SIDE POCKET UPPER WELT WITH WELT

301

TURN AND FROM SIDE POCKET

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH/ AUTOMATIC WELTING MACHINE SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH/ AUTOMATIC WELTING MACHINE MANUAL TURNING

A08

SEW SIDE POCKET UNDER WELT

A09 A10

SEW SIDE POCKET BAG TO UNDER WELT

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A11

SEW SIDE POCKET BAG TO UPPER WELT

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A12

SEW SIDE POCKET BAG

DNLS/ 4-THREAD OVERLOCK

301X2 OR 514

OR

BREAST POCKET A13

FUSE FUSIBLE INTERLINING ON BREAST POCKET WELT AND FOLD WELT

FUSING MACHINE AND WELT FOLDING MACHINE/ MANUAL FOLDING

301

A14

SEW WELT AND POCKET BAG TO FRONT

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH OR AUTOMATIC WELTING MACHINE TURNING MACHINE AND SNLS DNLS OR 4THREAD OVERLOCK

301, 301

A15

CUT, TURN AND FORM BREAST POCKET

A16

SEW BREAST POCKET BAG

A17

BASTE INTERLINING TO FRONT

SINGLE NEEDLE BASTING MACHINE

301

A18

FUSE FUSIBLE TAPE ON GORGE AND FRONT EDGE

FUSING MACHINE

A19

FUSE FUSIBLE TAPE ON LAPEL LINE

FUSING MACHINE

A20

BLIND STITCH LAPEL TAPE

BLIND STITCHING MACHINE

A21

FORM FRONT

FORM FINISHER

A22

PAD LAPELS

AUTOMATIC LAPEL PADDING MACHINE

301

301X2 OR 514

103

SECTION: (B) FACING OPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME

SEAM DIAGRAM

MACHINE RECOMMENDED

B01

FUSE INTERLINING TO LAPEL

FUSING MACHINE

B02

SEW FRONT LINING TO LAPEL

SNLS

B03

MARK POCKET POSITIONS

WORKING TABLE

STITCH TYPE

301

BRAND LABEL: 1 B04

SEW BRAND LABLE TO SHELL FABRIC PIECE

SNLS

301

B05

SEW SHELL FABRIC PIECE TO RIGHT FRONT LINING

SNLS

301

INSIDE POCKET(RIGHT) B06

MAKE THE SIDE CUT

WORKING TABLE

B07

PLACE FACING ON BOTTOM OF POCKET MARK AND RUN STITCH

SNLS/ AUTOMATIC WELT MAKING MACHINE

301

B08

PLACE POCKET BAG ON TOP OF POCKET MARK AND RUNSTITCH

SNLS/ AUTOMATIC WELT MAKING MACHINE

301

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

B09

CUT AND TURN

B10

ATTACH FACING AND POCKET BAG

B11

SIDE STITCH POCKET BAG

TURNING MACHINE FOR WELT POCKET SNLS

301

DNLS OR 4THREAD OVERLOCK

301X2 OR 514

301

OR

B12

TOP STITCH ON BOTH THE SIDES

SNLS

B13

MAKE PLEAT OF THE CUT FABRIC

WORKING TABLE

B14

CLOSE THE CUT

SNLS

301

COIN POCKET(LEFT) B15

FOLD COIN POCKET

B16

ATTATCH WASH LABEL TO COIN POCKET

FOLDING MACHINE/ MANUAL FOLDING SNLS

FOLDER FOR ACCURATE FOLDING 301

B17

ATTACH BIAS STRIP TO EDGES

SNLS

301

B18

ATTACH COIN POCKET

SNLS

301

301

INSIDE POCKET(LEFT): repeat B6-B14 B19

TOP STITCH LAPEL

SNLS

B20

CREASE LABELS

LABEL CREASING MACHINE

SECTION: (C) BACK OPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME

SEAM DIAGRAM

MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

C01

FELL BACK CENTER AND SIDE

BLIND HEMMING MACHINE

C02

SEW CENTER BACK

SNLS

301

C03

SEW TAPE TO NECKLINE AND ARMHOLE

SNLS

301

BACK LINING C04

PLACE 2 BACK LINING PANELS RIGHT-TO-RIGHT

WORKING TABLE

C05

SEW COMPLETE STITCH

SNLS

301

C06

SEW PLEAT FROM INSIDE TILL 1” FROM TOP

SNLS

301

C07

SEW PLEAT FROM BOTTOM

SNLS

301

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

SECTION: (D) COLLAR OPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME

SEAM DIAGRAM

MACHINE RECOMMENDED

D01

MARK STITCH POSITIONS

WORKING TABLE

D02

MARK COLLAR BOTTOM ON UPPER COLLAR

WORKING TABLE

D03

FUSE LINING ON UPPER COLLAR

FUSING MACHINE

D04

ATTATCH BRAND LABEL

SNLS

D05

PLACE 2 COLLAR PIECES RIGHT-TORIGHT

WORKING TABLE

D06

RUNSTITCH COLLAR

SNLS

D07

CUT COLLAR POINTS

WORKING TABLE

D08

TURN AND FORM COLLAR

D09

FUSE FUSIBLE TAPE ON COLLAR BOTTOM AND FORM COLLAR

AUTOMATIC COLLAR TURNING MACHINE FUSING TABLE

D10

MARK GORGE LINE

WORKING TABLE

STITCH TYPE

301

301

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

Section E: Sleeve and Sleeve Lining OPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME

E01

E02

SEAM DIAGRAM

MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

SEW INSIDE OF SLEEVE

SNLS

301

FUSING MACHINE

E03

FUSE FUSIBLE INTRELINING ON SLEEVE MOUTH SEW OUTSIDE OF SLEEVE

SNLS

E04

TURN SLEEVE

WORKING TABLE

E05

SHIRR SLEEVE CUP

301

E06

SEW OUTSIDE THE SLEEVE LINING

SNLS WITH DIFFERENT FEEDS/NORMAL SNLS SNLS

E07

SEW INSIDE THE SLEEVE LINING

SNLS

301

E08

FOLD SLEEVE LINING SEAM

WORKING TABLE

E09

TURN SLEEEVE AND LINING SLEEVE INSIDE OUT

WORKING TABLE

301

301

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

E10

PLACE LINING OVER SLEEVE WITH ¼” EXTRA

WORKING TABLE

E11

STICH SLEEVE AND LINING

SNLS

E12

TURN IT INSIDE OUT

WORKING TABLE

E13

PRESS TO FORM PLEAT

IRONING TABLE

301

SECTION F: ASSEMBLY OPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME

F01

SEAM DIAGRAM

MACHINE RECOMMENDED

STITCH TYPE

SEW FRONT FACING TO FRONT

SNLS

301

F02

CUT CORNER OF LAPEL,TURN AND FORM FRONT EDGE

WORKING TABLE

F03

FOLD FRONT BOTTOM

TURNING MACHINE

F04

PRESS FROM THE EDGE

PRESSING TABLE

F05

BASTE SHOULDER PAD TO FRONT

SINGLE NEEDLE BASTING MACHINE

F06

MARK BUTTONHOLE POSITIONS

WORKING TABLE

F07

MAKE SLIT

SCISSORS

F08

PLACE BUTTONHOLE PIECE BETWEEN FRONT AND LAPEL

SNLS

301

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

F09

SEW AND TURN

SNLS

301

F10

SEW SHOULDER

SNLS

301

F11

OPEN SHOULDER SEAM

WORKING TABLE

F12

SEW SHOUDER OF LINING

SNLS/ZIGZAG LOCKSTICH

F13

FOLD SHOULDER OF LINING

WORKING TABLE

F14

MARK COLLAR POSITION OF GORGE

WORKING TABLE

F15

SEW COLLAR TO GORGE

F16

CUT GORGE

SNLS (COMPENSATING PRESSURE CAN BE USED) WORKING TABLE

F17

BLINDSTITCH UNDER COLLAR

BLINDSTICH MACHINE

301

301

F18

SEW SIDE

SNLS

301

F19

OPEN SIDE SEAM

PRESSING TABLE

F20

SEW LINING SIDESEAMS AND FRONT LINING

SNLS

301

F21

SEW SLEEVE

301

F22

MAKE WAD

SLEEVE ATTACHING MACHINE SNLS SNLS

F23

SEW WAD TO ARMHOLE

SLEEVE ATTACHING MACHINE SNLS

301

F24

SEW SHOULDER PAD AND ARMHOLE

SHOULDER PAD ATTACHING MACHINE /SNLS

301

F25

SEW ARMHOLE LINING

SNLS

F26

FASTEN ARMHOLE

SNLS

F27

OPEN ABOUT 1” OF STITCH FROM CENTER FRONT

WORKING TABLE

F28

OPEN ABOUT 2-3” OF LINING SIDE SEAM FROM ONE SIDE

WORKING TABLE

F29

TURN THE JACKET INSIDE OUT

WORKING TABLE

F30

PLACE THE LINING 1/4” AHEAD OF THE SHELL FABRIC

WORKING TABLE

F31

SEW PLEAT FROM CENTER FRONT

SNLS

301

F32

SEW THE BOTTOM, LEAVING ABOUT 3-4” BETWEEN CENTER AND SIDE SEAM TURN THE JACKET AND FROM THE OPENING IN SIDE SEAM, SEW THE REMAINING BOTTOM BLIND STITCH THE OPENING IN SIDE SEAM

SNLS

301

SNLS

301

BLIND STITCHING MACHINE

103

F33

F34

301

SECTION G: FINISHING OPERATION NUMBER

OPERATION NAME

SEAM DIAGRAM

MACHINE RECOMMENDED

G01

INSPECT

WORKING TABLE

G02

HAND BLINDSTITCH BACK LINING AND SLEEVE

WORKING TABLE

G03

TRIM THREAD

WORKING TABLE

G04

PRESS DIFFERENT PARTS

G05

FINISHING IRON

DIFFERENT IRONONG MACHINES AND FORM FINISHERS JACKET FORM FINISHER

G06

MARK BUTTON POSITIONS

WORKING TABLE

G07

ATTACH SHANK BUTTONS TO FRONT AND SLEEVES

MANUAL SHANK ATTACHING MACHINE

STITCH TYPE

WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED