Received: 4 June 2018
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Revised: 25 September 2018 | Accepted: 6 November 2018
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.12838
PARTING THOUGHT
Olive oil in pharmacologi pharmacological cal and cosmet cosmetic ic traditions 1 Ilaria Gorini PhD | Silvia Iorio PhD 1
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3 | Rosagemma Ciliberti ML | Marta Licata
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PhD | Giuseppe Armocida MD 1
Department of Biotechnology and Life Sciences, University of Insubria, Varese, Italy
Summary
Unit of History of Medicine and Bioethics, Department of Molecular Medicine, Sapienza University of Rome, Rome, Italy
Among the numerous natural substances used in medical remedies, oil certainly plays an important role and, over the centuries, there have been many functions and prop erties attributed to it. We present the processes that have seen it as protagonist in
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the pharmacological field and in the cosmetic field.
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Department of Science of Health, University of Genoa, Genova, Italy Correspondence
Silvia Iorio, Unit of History of Medicine and Bioethics, Department of Molecular Medicine, Sapienza University of Rome,
KE YWO RD S
cosmetics, olive oil, pharmacology
Rome, Italy. Email:
[email protected]
Olive oil finds ample space in medicine, from antiquity to mod ern times, historiography, and from the scientific work of Alberico Benedicenti,1 it has been highlighted how difficult it is to give an accurate interpretation interpretation of oil as a substance and its uses in the pharmaceutics.2 Vegetable oils have been used for a wide range of purposes since ancient times, especially as skin moisturizers.3 Because of their remarkable effectiveness, a low profile of side effects and acceptable costs, these oils were extremely popular as moisturizers. This article focuses on the different t ypes of vegetable oils and their various uses in the dermocosmetic field.
From this, Jacopo Panzani published his “critical reasoning about the internal use of olives for severe fevers, on the ordinary treatment of putrid and biliary affections, and on the indole of the most obvious acute illnesses that are observed in the city of Venice”5 to deny the supposed benefits of oil use in many diseases (Table 1). We know that there are many beliefs on the medical benefits of olive oil, but we must also acknowledge that certain proposals did not gain approval from doctors throughout the ages. Oil was also used as an immunizing agent against the bite of poisonous serpents. With this in mind, it is interesting to note a story of a great supporter of this
From the East Mediterranean to Southern Italy, from the North Provence to Garda Riviera, the cultivation of the olive tree offered a possibility for people to understand oil as a substance, not only, for alimentary use.4 Ancient people believed in the virtues of oil as a “high medicine.” From a curative function for wounds and burns, oil, with its emollient properties, proper ties, was used as a moisturizin moisturizingg and soothing lotion. Moreover, it was considered effective in treating numerous diseases. For example, it was particularly useful in the treatment of intestinal diseases. Classical medicine recommended the application “of oil and wine” on wounds, a Quercetin dietetic precept also recommended using “to the external” oil while suggesting honey “to the inside.” If there was no old oil available, which was considered more effective, it was necessary to boil new oil and then let it cool down so it could obtain the same effective properties. Olive oil was also recommended for fevers. Perhaps Archigene d’Apamea healed his master Agatino from a delirious fever with oil.
remedy, William Oliver, in Windsor 1734 and in the presence of phy sicians who were called to verify the quality of his work, was inten tionally bit by two vipers and survived. It was well known that oil, useful to the tasks of medicine, was given by God to man, also ut corpus eo niteat ac vires concipiat . Now we can reflect on how, since ancient times, it has been adopted by men for its many uses in cooking, medicine, and cosmetics. Ancient herbalist’s texts are full of dietary6 and hygienic prescriptions for maintaining health and oil seems to play a major role, especially in the preparation of ointments, in preserving or enhancing the es thetic harmony of the body. It is important to consider issues from the beginning of its use and to reflect upon the ideology of oil and its uses, more specifically the intersection between cultural factors, fac tors, the concept of magic and scientific dimension, from mythology to rational medical practice. It is well known that oil, in the composition of medical prescriptions, was considered to be a drug. In ancient Mediterranean countries,
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;1–5.
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TABLE 1
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History and uses of olive oil
Historical Histo rical Epoc Epoch h
Use of olive olive oil in in pharmaco pharmacologi logical cal and and cosmet cosmetic ic traditi traditions ons
Egyptia Egyp tian n
In Egyp Egyptia tian n cul cultur ture, e, oli olive ve oil was use used d for hai hairr care and to cou counte nterr wri wrinkl nklee
Greek
The use of oil, whic which h was recoun recounted ted in Homeri Homericc scrip scripts, ts, was deeply roote rooted d in Greek cultu culture. re. Diosc Dioscoride oride descr described ibed the oil therapeutic virtues in his work, an undisputed source of botany and medicine
Roman
The culture of olive oil use in massage was especially appreciated by the Romans who give great importance to it in general skin care. They called olive oil treatments “Beaut y baths”
Medieval Medie val
Even if the monasti Even monasticc orders gave new impu impulse lse in the consu consumption mption of olive oil, the medie medieval val medica medicall litera literature ture is not rich of oil annotations
Renaissanc Renai ssancee
The “Retu “Return rn to natur nature” e” of the Rena Renaissan issance ce stimu stimulated lated the natur naturalisti alisticc observat observations. ions. In Diosc Dioscoride oride’s ’s comme comment, nt, Pieran Pierandrea drea Matthioli described the use different types of oils. Leonardo Fioravanti wrote several pages explaining the virtue and the occult quality of the olive tree
17th‐18th century
Even the French scientist Nicolas Lèmery, author of the Pharmacopée universelle believed in the specific properties of olive oil. His work was used as a guide for subsequent authors for almost the whole of the 18th century
19th centu century ry
In the the 19th 19th century century,, medici medicine ne was was moving moving away from the traditi tradition on which which acknow acknowledge ledged d the medica medicall properties properties of oil oil but, but, on the contrary, the beneficial properties of olive oil used for cosmetics are still claimed. In the second half of the centur y, Paolo Mantegazza wrote about the olive oil properties. At the end of the 19th century, olive oil was used in cosmetics industry
20th century century
We read about the many many uses of this produ product ct in forms that give it valid valid justi justificati fication, on, even even in the the modern modern pharma pharmacologi cological cal world
Today
Recently, numerous epidemiologic studies show that the dietary consumption of extra virgin olive oil by Mediterranean populations correlates to positive effects on human health
the use of oil in cosmetics was common practice. In Egyptian culture, olive oil was used for hair care and to counter wrinkles; the Greeks applied oil to the bodies of athletes to highlight their esthetic perfection and to prepare them through thermal massage. The use of oil, which was recounted in Homeric scripts, was deeply rooted in Greek culture. Ampoules, alabaster containers, or blown glass containers became symbols of status. The culture of olive oil use in massage was especially appreciated by the Romans who give great importance to it in general skin care; they called olive oil treatments “Beauty baths.” Galen suggested the use of olive oil to lighten the face and hands, but also to stimulate hair growth and long‐lasting use to counter alopecia and dandruff. In the work of Dioscoride, an undisputed source of botany and
of using different types of oils and numerous artifices for use in many different ways. For oil obtained from unripe olives, the omphacino, it was written that: “acerbo, it’s great for healthy use […] and is healthy for the stomach […] Restraining the gums […] Each oil commonly warms […] preserves the body from the cold.” 7 Through certain preparations, oil seemed to help ease any pain. Hot by mouth, mitigated “Colic, side and kidney pains” and it was useful to “expel worms.” It was also possible to remedy cases of poisoning with a composition of substances including old oil.7 All the recipes show a widespread use of precious vegetable fat, and there are innumerable literary testimonies of the use of olive oil in cosmetic preparations. Particularly in the preparation of white oil, the oil obtained from wild olives, which “prevents sweat and hair
medicine, it is evident that he uses oil in essences for its therapeutic virtues, but for other naturalist physicians of that time it was not common practice to use oil. Olive oil continued to serve as a remedy for hemorrhages or scabies. Even if the monastic orders gave new impulse in the consumption of olive oil, the medieval medical literature is not rich of oil annotations. Only in Modern Age, texts does the medicinal qualities of oil plants became more and more vigorous. The “Return to nature” of the Renaissance stimulated the naturalistic observations. The botanists who were educated on the reading of classi cal texts began to observe and study again the remedies offered by the vegetable kingdom. In Dioscoride’s comment, Pierandrea Matthioli offered a guide with his monumental work. His work was
loss.”8 The oil calledSicionio , the oil obtained from non‐ripe olives, was prepared by boiling water and white oil slowly over a fire in a copper pot. A second boil in water completed the procedure for the production of the oil. In addition, the daily use of oil was consolidated to the whole of the body in the bathroom. The relationship between nutrition and medical knowledge was documented by a vast literature of recipes. The knowledge, passed by an authority, coordinated by a mysteri ous and far‐fetched tradition, and excluded from experimental testing, did not exclude the use of cosmetics, according to established models that were maintained in a doctor’s practice. One of the most prolific authors of “secrets” was the Bolognese knight Leonardo Fioravanti, who wrote several pages explaining the virtue and the
considered to be a classic point of reference and a source of useful medical news, which was printed in numerous editions and was generally adopted as a medical text almost until the emergence of modern pharmacotherapy. From him, we learnt the practice
occult quality of the olive tree. The oil, which was familiar to him, was used to make many compositions and ointments, in addition to medical indications, Fioravanti explained how the oil‐dried leavings preserved color in hair.9
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Recently, the cosmetic qualities of olive oil were rediscovered and its return to the beauty field in the 17th century in products specifically used for skin care became apparent. Prior to the great eighteenth‐century scientific systematization, several substances, distilled water of roses, and such like, were proposed to contain properties that kept oil dependant skin fresh. The advantages that oil brought to the inhabitants of affluent affl uent places with its production have been ingeniously symbolized since ancient times. In that period, olive oil was the best and most sought after of all oils, not just
therefore, it has an advantage over other resins when regarding products for exterior application “exotic resins that are expensive could be replaced by olive resin.”12 In early 19th‐century treatise, the tradition and/or recom mended use of oily joints, since antiquity, continued to be acceptable and not solely for athletes, to: soften the skin, diminish perspiration. Oily clutches, which were intended as protection against pathological events, were regularly practiced prac ticed by washing the body thoroughly with water and vinegar and then rubbing the body with a warm oil
for table use, lighting, or as part of many prescriptions. We want to remember Nicolas Lèmery, author of the Dictionnaire ou traité universel des droghe simples and of thePharmacopée universelle. His work was used as a guide for subsequent authors for almost the whole of the 18th century. Even the French scientist believed in the specific properties of olive oil and his message was so strong that some of his traditions are still practiced.10 In the 19th century, medicine was moving away from the tradition which acknowledged the medical properties of oil, but, on the contrary, the beneficial properties of olive oil used for cosmetics are still claimed today. Despite all of this, more specifically in the recognition and comparison comparison of art and beaut y and health, we must re member the expression regarding medicine of the early e arly nineteenth century, which stated “it is not beauty without health.”11 In 19th‐century 19th‐century medicine, the only cosmetics that were recommended were, along with frequent water lotions, “some oily joints.” The use of ointments was derived from the habitual practice prac tice of covering the body with olive oil after each bath, but the extender of the voice olio for the Dizionari Dizionario o Classico di Medicina Interna ed Esterna, in 1836, commented on these particular habits and considered them to be preferential over medicine.12 However, the discourse between the art of beauty and medical science authorities continued. The general properties that medicine recognized in oil, on the eve of the modern development of chemistry, were the fluidity in ordinary atmospheric temperature in temperate climates, greens, solubility in ether, and combustibility. Robust olive oil was administered as laxative or emetic and it was still used to treat poisoning. Combined with
sponge. Leaving the early decades of the 19th century, to move into the second half of the century, a number of other authors wrote about the property of oil. In particular, Paolo Mantegazza published the works with these titles: Igiene della pelle and Igiene della bellezza i n two volumes of his Enciclopedia igienica popolare. Mantegazza explained that the primary tool to preserve the qualities of our skin was certainly water, he also recommended enriching bath water with olive oil: about 60 g of oil. Warm bath water requires only minimal amounts of cocoa butter, laudate, and glycerin. The man ual recommended the use of olive oil for cleaning and softening the skin “to maintain or enhance the beauty of the body.” 13 He also recommended that women use oil to care and condition their hands during the night by using cosmetic gloves coated with an ointment of olive oil and rose‐pomace. For hair care, among the various reme dies, Mantegazza did not forget the s o‐called Olio di Celebes (1000 g of olive oil, 30 g of cinnamon, 45 g of citrine sandalwood and 4 g of orange essence). These were suggestions that had already been featured in Elementi di Igiene that he had published a few years before.14 A great cosmetic soap made with olive oil and soda. In those years, when experimenting was not accepted or performed per formed by both physicians and cosmetics, he still depended on remedies that had been inherited from tradition and manuals which provided advice to women wishing to improve their appearance. Among the many recommendations, it was suggested for use on “friabili” “ friabili” and “vitree” nails, “tartar cream,” in addition to tartar oil, white wax, powder, and lemon essence, which also included 20 g of olive oil. It was on
fats and resins, it became the basis of ointments and pharmaceutical oils which were used as emollients when applied to the skin, or, it could also be administered by mouth, for the treatment of an inflammation of the intestinal tube, in colic, diarrhea, disparity treatments etc Nineteenth‐century chemistry examined the specific weight of oil, “about a fifth higher than that of water” which led to other anal ysis to highlight its composition, to the extent that it was a ternary compound of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. Reddish brown resin gum was observed in olive trees, “in irregular tears, or in variously voluminous masses.”12 This resin was already known to Teofrasto and Dioscoride who had spoke of olive tears, resumed by Pliny, cited by Strabone and assimilated by Matthioli, all agreeing that it was
the eve of the establishment of a cosmetics industry, at the end of the 19th century, that it finally gained economic importance, offering a large number of esthetic, hygienic, and eutrophic products. It was an important moment as it generated ideas for production, formulating methods, quality control, packaging, and pharmaceuticals. He also promised to contribute to maintain the best functional and anatomical conditions in the areas where cosmetics were designed. When identifying raw materials of vegetable origin, olive oil was also subjected to basic research which, when applied in this perspective, outlined any active properties due to the mechanisms revealed by chemistry. In the preparation of a cosmetic product, the active ingredients for inducing functional effects were associated with emulsifiers, additives, or stabilizers. In dermatological medicine
a useful substance to be used as a medicine applied externally in the form of a plaster. It consisted of two substances, one of which was analogous to resinous materials and the other approximated to the tears. In ancient times, olive was used widely in pharmacies;
of the early 20th century, the applications of the vegetable grease as an excipient or a component of a cosmetic formula could not be ignored; its validity was confirmed by the active ingredient azelaic acid. We read about the many uses of this product in forms that give
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it valid justification, even in the modern pharmacological world. Oil is sometimes used as a mild laxative and as a protective emollient in inflammatory states of the enteric tube. Even the cosmetics sector has renewed its validation as it appears in the preparation of various products. In addition, vitamins and high concentrations concentrations of squalene, phytosterols, and tocopherols, as well as the presence of linoleic and linolenic acids, gives olive oil emollient and protective properties for the epidermis,15 and the antioxidant properties make it a precious beauty product. Olive oils acidity, a level which is compatible
including joint‐degenerative joint‐degenerative disease, neurodegenerative disease, and specific cancers. 29 In addition, similar contents of squalene in human sebum and olive oil makes it an excellent natural ingredient of biocosmetic prod ucts. Several current studies show the wide variety of uses of this compound in dermocosmetic field. We also know that extra virgin olive oil plays today an important role in dermatology as it has a unique concentrate of regenerating substances. The high amount of vitamin E produces antioxidant ef-
with that of the skin, makes it a very useful tool in beauty be auty products, even today an old remedy of minted oil is used to counteract aging, weakness, and depletion of skin and hair, to strengthen nails, to fight redness and irritation, and to soften and tone. There appears to be an eternal interest from doctors and nutritionists in olive oil and the many possible preparations for its internal or external use that still form chapters of herbal treatments.16 Recently,, numerous epidemiologic studies show that the dietary Recently consumption of extra virgin olive oil by Mediterranean populations correlates to positive effects on human health.17 The source of its beneficial influence health comes from the combination of biophenols and squalenes (oleocanthal, tyrosol, hydroxytyrosol, and oleuropein) contained in it.18,19 Olive oil differs from most of the other vegetable oils in the method of extraction, allowing it to be consumed in the crude form, hence conserving its vitamins and other natural, healthy, and high‐ value compounds. However, it is known that environmental factors, climatological climatologi cal conditions, tree variety, time, and methods of harvest influence the different organoleptic properties of different olive oils. Today, the specific pharmacological properties of olive oil are recommended especially in the prevention of several disorders such as bone aging, digestive and cardiovascular diseases, arteriosclerosis, diabetes, obesity, hypertension, rheumatoid arthritis, memory loss, and some types of cancers.21,22 The compounds of olive oil, in particular the phenolic substances exert positive effec ts on lipid oxidation, platelet and cellular function, inflammatory marker, antimicrobial, antioxidant,
fects and30 helps to fight free radicals, responsible for the aging of hair and skin. Vitamin E, combined with vitamin A, stimulates cell regeneration. Today, olive oil is recognized in dermatology as a useful remedy against wrinkles and is also applied in treatments to prevent stretch marks. Olive oil can usually be applied to any type of skin. Before pro ceeding, however, it is indicated consider possible hypersensitivity or the presence of disorders that advise against the application. Damby et al showed that, despite its beneficial effects in wound healing promotion and reduction in skin cancer development, top ical treatment with olive oil has a detrimental effect on stratum corneum integrity and skin barrier function and has the potential to promote the development of, and exacerbate existing, atopic dermatitis. Historically, the olive industry has been concentrated in and controlled by mediterranean countries. in recent decades, economic reasons have encouraged the expansion of olive cultivation also in new continents (including North and South America, Southeast Asia, South and North Africa, and the Middle east of Australia.) The use of genetic material, techniques innovative cultivations as well as environmental factors are encouraging this trend, particularly par ticularly in desert‐ 31 marginal environments.
antiviral properties, 24 as well as in preventing the development of chronic degenerative diseases an d reducing oxidative damage and inflammation. 25,26 An animal research has shown that oleuropein aglycone, the main phenol in the extra virgin olive oil, may prevent or delay the appearance of Alzheimer’s disease and reduce the severity of its symptoms. 27 Trapani et al28 demonstrated that an adequate amount of olive oil during pregnancy exposes the children to a lower risk of wheezing in the firs t period of their lives. The same s tudy shows that an appropriate consumption of olive oil at an early age childhood and adolescence has an im portant effect in the prevention of adulthood diseases and an key role on many inflammatory diseases, even in the early period of life. In addition, studies show that oleocanthal, a natural anti‐inflammatory compound contained in newly pressed extra virgin olive oil, has a potency and profile strikingly similar to that of ibuprofen with pharmacological qualities able to exhibit various modes of action in reducing inflammatory‐related disease,
ORCID
Silvia Iorio
https://orcid.org/0000‐0001‐9741‐7838
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How to cite this article: Gorini
I, Iorio S, Ciliberti R, Licata M, Armocida G. Olive oil in pharmacological and cosmetic 2019;0 0:1–5. 5. https://doi. traditions. J Cosmet Dermatol . 2019;00:1– org/10.1111/jocd.12838
