OCM MILLS AMRITSAR INTERNSHIP REPORT

INTRODUCTION Oriental carpet manufacturers abbreviated as OCM, situated at Chheharta, Amritsar is a world world class mill with growing international presence. OCM has become a synonym for quality suiting. It is the first worsted mill in India to get the prestigious ISO-9001 certifications. It was established in Amritsar in 1924 by a British company for manufacturing of hand knotted carpets for the supply to its subsidiary subsidiary company, the East India carpet ltd. OCM carpets carpets have enjoyed the highest highest goodwill for their fine quality and vibrant designs both in the home and foreign market and that is from where it got its name OCM. All departments of OCM, ranging from designing to finishing, work congenial for producing right kind of fabric which has the right feel, fall and drape and maintains maintains its ironed look throughout throughout the day. OCM has the facility to execute all stages of spinning, weaving, processing, dyeing and finishing except changing raw wool into workable for spinning, so they buy tops of fibers.

Fig.1.1-View of OCM textile mill

THE COMPANY Since its inception in 1924 as a manufacturer of hand-knotted carpets, OCM has come a long way to  become one of the largest worsted suiting producer, the first one to implement a customized textile ERP solution. solution. A completely completely vertically integrated integrated plant, plant, OCM has in-house in-house production production facilities to convert tops to finished fabrics through dyeing, spinning, weaving and finishing using state-of-theart machinery. All the materials and processes pass through stringent checks at every stage and help in delivering outstanding quality. At present the company’s capacity includes 34064 Spindles and 182 high speed shuttle-less Looms thereby giving spinning capacity of 12000 kg yarn and weaving capacity of 25000 Mtrs of fabric   per per day. day. The The spin spinni ning ng prep prepar arato atory ry is from from NSC, NSC, Fran France ce,, Spin Spindl dles es from from Zins Zinser, er, Germ German any, y, Autoconers from Schlhafhorst, Germany, TFO’s from Leewha, Korea and looms from Lindaeur  Dornier, Dornier, Germany, Germany, Sulzer, Sulzer, Switzerland Switzerland and Picanol, Picanol, Belgium. Belgium. Apart from this, color continuity continuity is 1

tested tested on color color matchi matching ng system system from from Gretag Gretag Macbreat Macbreath, h, UK and fabric gets gets final final finish finish on Decatiser from Biella Shrunk, Rotary Press of Mario Crosta, Italy, Continuous Decatising from Speret Speretto to Rimar, Rimar, Italy, Italy, Superfi Superfinis nish h from from M-Tec, M-Tec, German Germany y and Sheari Shearing ng machin machinee from from Xetma Xetma Vollenweider, Switzerland. The company has its age not only in the home market but is also exporting to several countries like Canada, USA, Middle East and other its wool blended fabrics and innovative wool.

THE PROMOTERS Early 2007, it has been acquired by a New York, US based, global private equity fund management company, WL Ross & Co. LLC, headed by Wilbur L Ross Jr. Other notable business initiatives of  WL Ross & Co. LLC include: •

International Steel Group

•

Kansai Sawayaka Bank ( Japan )

•

International Textile Group

•

International Automotive Components Group

•

International Coal Group

International Textile Group ( ITG ) is a portfolio company of the WL Ross Group, formed in March 2004 through the merger of : •

Cone Denim – one of the world’s largest denim manufacturer.

•

Burlington Industries – one of the world’s largest worsted wool manufacturers

CORE ORGANISATION VALUES & HRD POLICY OCM recognizes recognizes that its people are the primary source of its competitivenes competitiveness. s. A strong strong belief that "to succeed requires the highest standards of corporate behavior towards our employees, consumers and the societies ". OCM's corporate philosophy is embedded in its commitment to all stakeholders - consum consumers ers,, employ employees ees,, shareh sharehold olders ers,, financ financier iers, s, the enviro environme nment nt and the society society that that the organization operates in. It is committed to provide equal employment opportunities for attracting the best available talent and ensuring a cosmopolit cosmopolitan an workforce. workforce. It pursues pursues management practices designed to enrich the quality of life of its employees, develop their potential and maximize their   productivity.

NEW DEVELOPMENTS Recent developments in OCM is the opening of retail outlets one of which is functioning smoothly in Amritsar and there are plans of the management to open more retail outlets in other cities to increase its customer base. They have also bought new machineries in many departments this year, especially in finishing department.

LAYOUT OF THE OCM MILL 2 2

2

3 2

1 2

2

1 2

61

7 8 1 16 2 5 10 19 1

2

2

52 3 4 2

tested tested on color color matchi matching ng system system from from Gretag Gretag Macbreat Macbreath, h, UK and fabric gets gets final final finish finish on Decatiser from Biella Shrunk, Rotary Press of Mario Crosta, Italy, Continuous Decatising from Speret Speretto to Rimar, Rimar, Italy, Italy, Superfi Superfinis nish h from from M-Tec, M-Tec, German Germany y and Sheari Shearing ng machin machinee from from Xetma Xetma Vollenweider, Switzerland. The company has its age not only in the home market but is also exporting to several countries like Canada, USA, Middle East and other its wool blended fabrics and innovative wool.

THE PROMOTERS Early 2007, it has been acquired by a New York, US based, global private equity fund management company, WL Ross & Co. LLC, headed by Wilbur L Ross Jr. Other notable business initiatives of  WL Ross & Co. LLC include: •

International Steel Group

•

Kansai Sawayaka Bank ( Japan )

•

International Textile Group

•

International Automotive Components Group

•

International Coal Group

International Textile Group ( ITG ) is a portfolio company of the WL Ross Group, formed in March 2004 through the merger of : •

Cone Denim – one of the world’s largest denim manufacturer.

•

Burlington Industries – one of the world’s largest worsted wool manufacturers

CORE ORGANISATION VALUES & HRD POLICY OCM recognizes recognizes that its people are the primary source of its competitivenes competitiveness. s. A strong strong belief that "to succeed requires the highest standards of corporate behavior towards our employees, consumers and the societies ". OCM's corporate philosophy is embedded in its commitment to all stakeholders - consum consumers ers,, employ employees ees,, shareh sharehold olders ers,, financ financier iers, s, the enviro environme nment nt and the society society that that the organization operates in. It is committed to provide equal employment opportunities for attracting the best available talent and ensuring a cosmopolit cosmopolitan an workforce. workforce. It pursues pursues management practices designed to enrich the quality of life of its employees, develop their potential and maximize their   productivity.

NEW DEVELOPMENTS Recent developments in OCM is the opening of retail outlets one of which is functioning smoothly in Amritsar and there are plans of the management to open more retail outlets in other cities to increase its customer base. They have also bought new machineries in many departments this year, especially in finishing department.

LAYOUT OF THE OCM MILL 2 2

2

3 2

1 2

2

1 2

61

7 8 1 16 2 5 10 19 1

2

2

52 3 4 2

3

3

1

Main gate

1

OCM conference room

2

Colony for workers

1

Warehouse

3

OCM club

1

Canteen

4

Playground

1

Car parking

5

Double storey flats

2

PPC and design dept.

6

Emporium

2

OCM(1924)

7

Cycle stand

2

Quality assurance

Water supply tower

2

Weaving dept.

Flats

2

Post spinning dept.

Store/godown

2

Dye house

8 9 1 1 1 1

1

1

Scooter/car parking

Guest house

Temple

Ambulance room

Personnel dept.

2 2

3

EP Godown

Inspection dept.

Finishing dept.

 New spinning f New spinning department

2

2

3

Substation

Compressors

4

DEPARTMENTS

Production Department This department of the company is further subdivided into: Designing Department

Production Planning and Control

Spinning Section

Dye House

Weaving Section

Finishing Section

Quality control departments

Inspection

5

Raw materials used in OCM The main raw material used in OCM are polyester and wool( superfine micron wool) imported from Australia. For polyester, trilobal polyester fibres are mostly used because it is more brighter and lustrous and provides more shine due to its trilobal structure. Other than trilobal polyester, terellene is also used. Raw material other than wool and polyester, like silk,viscose, cotton and linen were rarely used(if required by the buyer). Wool used in OCM is generally of: •

18.5 microns

•

19.5 microns

•

20 microns

•

21.5 microns

•

22.5 microns

•

28.5 microns

The blends of yarns are •

Polyester/wool: 70/30,60/40, 85/15, 55/45, 65/35

•

Silk/wool

•

Polyester/viscose

•

Polyester/wool/viscose

•

Polyester/wool/cotton

•

Polyester/wool/linen

The main sources from where the wool is bought: •

Digjam Jamnagar 

•

Oswal

•

Grasim

•

Jaishree

Polyester is brought from: •

Digjam Jamnagar 

•

Jogindher worsted Ludhiana

DESIGNING 6

Organization Chart Manager (Mr. Atul Kumar)

Assistant Manager (Mr. Anand Bhardwaj)

Technical Officer

Supervisor 

(Mr. Pritpal Singh)

(Mr. Vijay Kumar) Designer

(Mr. Manish Mishra)

(Mr. Harpreet Singh)

(Mr. Harpreet Singh)

Technical Assistant (Mr. Amit Sharma) Designing plays a major role in the whole process of fabric making. This department first receives

feedback from the market and after analyzing of various factors, the designs are developed and then further processed. The designs are developed keeping in mind the two seasons, i.e. Spring/Summer  & Autumn/Winter. They produce about 300 designs per season. New designs are developed according to the market trends along with improving some of the designs of the old designs.

Fig.1.2- new design samples being developed

Flow chart of work of design department

Basic Design/Pattern Requirement 7

Yarn Indent

Basic Design/Pattern Development

Blanket Development

Design/Pattern Selection

Master Cards

Feeler Manufacturing

Production Plan

Master Card Delivery

Feedback 

BASIC DESIGN/PATTERN REQUIREMENT The process of making new designs requires main four resources-market survey, last year sales record, fashion forecasting magazines and fashion shows. The design department also developes designs according to their conceptualization. Ideas of new developments are received from Market/Sales Department for Domestic Market and from International Division for export market. Fabric samples received from buyer are another source of development of design. Requirement of  design patterns(quality wise) is received from sales department before commencement of every range i.e summer/winter. For export collection requirement of design patterns is made in culsuntation with ID before commencement of every collection. For export market any development to be done for the customer is received from International Division. In case of new cutting received from Market/Sales/ID, the same is sent to QC labs for analysis. After getting the test report, yarns are indented if required, through PPC.

YARN INDENT  New shades are selected by HOD( designing) according to the prevailing trends both for top dyeing and for cone dyeing in standard qualities. In case of new qualities, count blends and twist per inch are also decided. New shades are given name and allocated in shade code register. 8

Shade codes:

Shade family

Depth

Nature of shade

1.Golden

Light

Solid

2.Brown

Medium

Mixture

3.Red 4.Purple

Dark

Printed Milange

5.Blue 6.Green 7.Yellow 8.Grey 9.Black  10.White

BASIC DESIGN/PATTERN DEVELOPMENT Procedure for basic design development includes Blend composition, type of raw material, twist, count and shade as the main inputs. For basic design development, already tested and well identified yarn lots are taken from yarn stores. The loom sett (ends/inch x picks/inch x reed width in inches on loom) is decided as per the requirement of the end product. For feel, handle is sent to finishing and finishing department decides the process sequence. To establish a basic design, feeler sample is made and approval is taken from Sales or International Division for developing design patterns.

BLANKET PATTERN Various design patterns are produced by making blanket sample in different qualities for export and domestic market. Designing staff person fill up the blanket sample development card. Design number and piece number are allocated in a register. Weaving department(designing section) weaves the development sample as per instructions on development card number. After greasy inspection by greasy perch, the blanket sample is sent to finishing department through mending department. After finished inspection by greasy perch, blanket sample is received in designing department. The same is inspected by HOD (designing) and then marked and cut suitably for  9

aapproval of design patterns. In case of customer qualities, samples are sent to customer for  selection.

Fig 1.3-Master card

MASTER CARD: Master cards of approved basic/design patterns are made in following sequence-. First of all design number is given according to quality in quality code register. Designing person makes the master card of each approved design in master card book and puts his signature. Loom sett of each and every master card is signed by HOD or his authorized deputy. While making master  card, draft and peg plan are made according to design on a graph card. These draft and pegplan cards are distributed to weaving. According to the blend of the fabric, the records are put in the blend code register. Master cards are fed in computer and made available on line in net work after checking.

FEELER MANUFACTURING The purpose of making feeler samples is that customers and manufacturers can have the proper feel and fall of the fabric and buyer can book their order by checking these feelers. Feelers are made by PPC after sampling order is released to PPC Before these feelers are shown in the meeting these are sent to the quality lab for testing. Feeler length is decided as per the requirement of Sample Section. After finishing, feelers are checked for feel and finish of the design/ design pattern. Any addition/deletion and future development is recorded and action is taken accordingly. In case of  feeler which is rejected due to some nonconformity, such as specifications or defectives, it is kept separate by giving new design number and sold separately to avoid mix up with new feelers.

PRODUCTION PLAN The Production plan is received from sales for regular ranges according to market requirements and the whole process is made according to this production plan. To consume left over yarns some new designs are made for which master cards and the production plans are delivered to PPC and their  information is sent to sales department. 10

Shades are sent to D/H for development. After developments these shades are checked either by the designing department, or are approved by the party. These are then send to the QC lab for testing. If  these shade pads are approved then they are sent to dye house for final production.

MASTER CARD DELIVERY: The master card made is checked by firstly the technical officer and then by HOD (Design). After  this the master card is sent to Q.C Lab, from where it goes on to the PPC (Production Planning & Control). If any problem occurs at subsequent stage of production (due to nature of design), the matter is discussed with the Sales management and higher authorities if required.

FEEDBACK: Feedback for further development is received from the different sources like best seller designs of   previous range, fashion periodicals, journals, market surveys by sales people (designing). Software verification

All the software/ hardware used in the Designing Department are maintained by IT Department. Software is verified by taking print out of standard master cards after every 6 months. All records are kept systematically so that they are legible, readily identifiable and readable. For preparing these feeler samples, the department has separate facility. There were 19 power looms with 12 heald shafts capacity. Out of these machines, there were 4 machines with shuttle boxes with capacity of 4 boxes for making checks. There are 23 workers in one shift in design department..

PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL This department plans the production and issues the various plans to different departments and also controls the whole production process. The main purpose of this department is to control the time of  the material handling by all the departments at the time of production. This department issues orders to each department and each department works according to its instruction. It also estimates the amount of raw material required in production and gives instruction to purchase department so that they could buy the raw material accordingly. It controls the activities by implementing the rules as  per ISO 9001. Estimation of raw material

11

Design-wise manufacturing plan

Yarn Spinning Order 

Monitoring Yarn stock/indents

Issuing warp/weft piece tickets to weaving

Monitoring fabric production

Reports for sales plan v/s production

ESTIMATION OF RAW MATERIAL The tentative planning for winter and summer seasons is made on the basis of average weight per  meter and basic blend composition for each quality, EPI and PPI for the fabric and the count of the yarn being made for the fabric.

DESIGN WISE MANUFACTURING PLAN The actual production programme for Civil and Government Institutions is received from Sales Department and the Export order from Export Section. Production plan is divided into months according to monthly capacity and given targets.

YARN SPINNING ORDER  The master cards are provided by designing through Q.C.lab and the sensitivity index number is given through fabric sample alongwith the master card. The master card from Q.C. lab help in issuing indents to Spinning, Recombing & Dye House. The process completion dates are put on the indents, which helps the PPC to monitor the process. The weaving target for next month is printed in the last week of the month, keeping in mind the exact yarn indent position. Separate yarn spinning orders are prepared for the individual yarn count; blend and computer prints are taken. Indents for yarn dyeing are given to the dye house. Development of new yarn and shades are also routed through the PPC department. Unused yarns left from the previous indents are also taken for the fresh yarn spinning order and these records are also kept with PPC department.

MONITORING YARN STOCK/INDENTS The yarn received in Excise Paid Yarn Store (E.P.Y.S) from worsted spinning is weighed, recorded and stored. The yarns are issued for the use after proper testing by Q.C. lab and shades approved by designing dept. The yarn stock and the position of indents is monitored carefully so that the target dates can be achieved and no process go out of control. Daily status of production is checked at various stages for this purpose. 12

ISSUE OF WARP/WEFT PIECE TICKETS TO WEAVIN The warp and weft piece tickets(prepared from master cards) are issued to weaving which contains the full plan to weave the fabric. The color, pattern and designs are contained in the piece tickets and the operator of loom understands the details(warp number, export order information, party name, total order, warehouse and delivery date)and manufactures the fabric accordingly.

MONITORING FABRIC PRODUCTION Any confusion related to design/shades in the inspection section, the matter is solved by P.P.C. The fabric production stage is monitored so that the target dates are achieved to the maintaining of  quality and better production. Report of warp loading is registered by weaving department on daily basis. Daily off loom position, inspected by greasy perch, is registered. Report of finished good from inspection to warehouse is  prepared. Reports are prepared to see the variation in production in weaving department and nece ssary actions are taken, if it exists.

NEW SPINNING Organization chart

General manager( Mr. S.P.S Sengar)

Quality

Production Manager

Maintenance

Store

Incharge D.G.M (Mr.C Saxena)

(Mr.Vikas Shukla)

Sr. Manager  (Mr.M.P Singh)

13

Preperatory

Ringframe

( Mr.V Shukla)

Auto Coner  

( Mr. Yashwinder)

(Mr.Bharat bhushan)

Mr.Jaswant Tech officer

Mr. Surendra pal

(Mr. Avinash)

Mr. Sawinder

Mr. Parashwan

Tech officer  (Mr. Pawan Aneja)

Mr. Panchanan

Mr.Bua Singh

PROCESS SEQUENCE RAW WOOL IN TOP FORM

GILLING

BLENDING(4 passages)

COMBING

AUTO LEVELLING

DRAW FRAME( 2 Passages)

SPEED FRAME RING FRAME 14

AUTO CONER 

STEAMING

WEAVING

POST SPINNING

In new spinning department, the slivers in top form are converted to single yarn by drawing and twisting and then winding them into bobbins. From loose fibres comprising between 10-20 mm, the new spinning involves a number of processes intended to •

Remove foreign substances from fibre

•

Disentangle the fibres

•

Making the fibres parallel

•

Give them a twist.

The machines used in this department (in order of processing of material) are S. no

Machine Type

Manufacture

No. of machines

1

GILLING M/C

NSC

9

1

BLENDING M/C

NSC

12

2

COMBER

NSC

19

3

AUTO LEVELLING

NSC

6

4

DRAW FRAME

NSC

12

5

SPEED FRAME

NSC

5

6.

RING FRAME

ZINSER

44

7

AUTO CONER

8

STEAMING

9 STAFI

2

MACHINE DESCRIPTION GILLING MACHINE

15

Gilling machines is used for blending, drafting, and oiling to make the tops uniform in weight and length. The machine processes the tops while making the fibers straight and parallel which increases the uniformity in sliver. From the back of the machine, the tops are fed. After passing through the feed rollers, tops move through the gilling field which consists of top and bottom fallers moving in same direction as that of  top. Fallers are like combs consisting of pins whose density can vary according to the materials  being processed and the stage at which it is being processed. The machine head consists of 72 right and 72 left fallers which are installed alternately( 1 top and 1 bottom). Faller ends are placed in two chains which drive the fallers and are themselves driven through gearing arrangement. Only 22 fallers are in operation at any instant. The density of pins in the fallers may vary from 3 pins per cm to 9 pins/cm. Low density pins are round in section while high density pins are flat. After the material passes through the fallers, it passes through the delivery rollers whose speed governs the actual draft given to the material. The draft ratio can vary from 4-12(set by draft gearbox with stepped cones). There is a nozzle to spray antistatic oil on to the output fibers top. It should be kept in mind that percentage oil content in wool fibers should be 0.8 to 1% and 0.5 % for   polywool. Humidity level should be 65-70% and temperature should be 27-30 degrees.

Fig.1.4- Gilling machine( GC-14)

GC-14 Gilling Machine Head Specifications Fallers filled with roller chains Number of fallers Pinned width-normal head Pinned width-wide head

9.5 mm 2 x 72 220 mm 270 mm 16

Pin projection Working fallers per field Pinned length Maximum input speed Diameter of drafting cylinder Diameter of top drafting cylinder Pin density

14 mm 22 200 mm 80 mm 30mm (small) and 62.5 mm(bigger) 80mm 3-9 pins per cm

BLENDING In blending process, two or more tops of same or different fibers are uniformly mixed resulting in composition of uniform top. There are variety of reasons of blending like •

To produce an end product with characteristics unattainable from one component.

•

To produce special effects.

•

To ensure continuity of supply and avoid batch to batch variations.

• •

To improve processibilty and spinning performance. To exploit advertising/consumer appeal.

Fallers in machine separate fibers from each other and open the tops and mix the fibers properly to achieve a uniform composition. There is set of four blending machines which through basic gilling machine principles increase uniformity of required blend. The output of these four machines has a uniform linear weight of fibers in the top. All these blender vary in pin density in fallers to separate fibers as we go from one machine to another(4 passages). The blenders while blending also apply draft on to the fibers tops to control the weight per unit length. 1st passage and 2 nd passage – 3 pins per cm 3rd passage – 4 pins per cm 4th passage – 5 pins per cm

COMBING After blending, fibers in sliver form are send for combing. In combing process, fibers are made more parallel, short fibres are removed, front hooks and tail hooks are removed, impurities like dust and vegetable matter are removed.  Numbers of slivers (maximum 24) are fed in to the machine from the back side through feeding rollers. A fibre tuft is torn out of the feed sliver by a gripper system. The heads of the fibres are cleaned by a rotating comb and the fibre tuft is then gripped by a pair of detaching rollers. At this stage the rectilinear comb lowers itself and combs the back ends of the fibres. The tufts are then overlapped and taken up in form of sliver. A crimping device imparts consistency to the sliver,  before its laying into a can. The short fibers and impurities are removed and are collected at the  bottom with the help of a doffer. The speed of the machine is measured in nips/min and amount of feed is determined by the nip distance( also called feed length). These are set differently for different material(type of fibre, its 17

diameter, its length). There is a shovel plate which feeds predetermined amount of fibers through the nipper jaws. Nipper jaw clamp the fibers and nipper brush pushes fibers into circular comb which removes short fibres and impurities. The top comb enters the fibre mass behind the nipper   jaws. When top comb is at bottom of the stroke, nipper jaws release the mass. The drawing off  rollers move to pick the combed fringe and pull fibres through top comb. The vegetable matter and short fibres are held behind the top comb and are removed by the segment on the next cycle. When the drawing off roller grasps the fringe, the front carriage moves forward while the rollers rotate, drawing the fibers onto the apron. Air suction is used to control the trailing fibres so they are not caught on the segment.The top comb is compressed of a strip of very fine pins. Pinning density varies, like for fine wool is combed on 30 pins per cm and coarser wool being combed at 25 pins  per cm. Finer the wool, greater the pinning density. Pinning density is also increased if wool contains lot of vegetable matter. Selection of the pinning for top comb and the segment is highly dependent on micron and contamination level of the input wool.

Specifications of Combing Machine Running speed Feeding Feed comb pinned length Top comb pinned length Circular comb pinned length Drawing off cylinder Doffer diameter Drawing off apron

175-210 nips/min Cans(doubling 16-24) 410 mm 470 mm 440 mm 25/28 138 mm 640 mm x 530 mm

After the combing or post combing, waviness of combed tops is removed and tops are made into  balls to reduce the number of cans required. The tops are continuously attenuated in weight/length during passage through post combing section. In post combing, two machines are used1. Gill box- to draft the tops and remove the waviness 2. Gill box with auto leveler and auto balling component. The first machine working is same as that of gilling machine working. Working of second machine i.e. auto leveler is explained below.

AUTO LEVELLER  The function of auto leveler drawframe is to make the sliver weight/length uniform. An auto leveler  gill box has an exception that it contains a sensor to measure the thickness (difference) of the sliver  and single drafting zone mounted in front of the head. Any variation in the thickness of the sliver is changed to electrical signal, which increases or decreases the speed of front drafting zone.

18

Fig.1.5- Diagram showing parts of Auto leveler machine

At the machine input, fed web is sensed by a mechanical device with rollers. The displacements of  the measuring roller are converted to analogical tension by an electronic sensor. These variations are processed by digital calculator which ensures the function of memory and of operator machine interface. At the precise movement, when variations are in drafting zone, the calculator corrects the I/P speed by moving the variator belt by means of an electrical stepping motor. The regulation range is +15% to -25%. If the material goes beyond this range, the machine stops. The machine is equipped with a mechanism by which the output tops are made into balls which are stored in case of delayed subsequent processing.

SPEED FRAME Its function is to attenuate the sliver into a rove and to produce a suitable package to be fed into a ring frame. They are called rovers in OCM as their name is derived from FM-7 rovers. In addition to reduction of weight/length of the tops, a small twist is provided in this machine. The sliver from the feed passes through the sliver guides, optical detection system and goes into a double apron drafting system. The drafted material then goes between two rubber aprons which moves axially causing the fibres to roll over each other, they twist first into one direction and then into the opposite direction as they move forward, the row is then wound on the roving bobbin. The twist is based on false twist  principle. Weight of the package from this machine is set according to the order and in such a way that roving machine is used properly.

Specifications of Speed Frame or Roving Machine Number of drafting elements Ends per drafting elements Doubling per end Maximum input

12,16,20 2 1 or 2 15 19

Maximum and minimum delivery weight Draft range Tube’s length(for rove) in mm Tube diameter in mm Bobbin diameter in mm Back to front cylinder distance in mm Feed cylinder diameter in mm Draft cylinder diameter in mm Pressure cylinder diameter in mm Maximum delivery speed(m/min)

1.5 and 0.25 9 to 26 243 70 300 330 40 25 and 50 70 200

RING FRAME Ring frame converts the roving into a yarn and simultaneously twist it while it is wound on a ring  bobbin to provide the strength to the yarn to make it stable. In OCM, there are 44 ring frame machines and they all are of Zinser, company of France. There is 3 by 3 system for twisting yarn. The drafting zone is divided into three parts – Back rollers, Middle rollers, and Front rollers.

Fig.1.6- Zinser 451 ring frame

Between the front and back rollers, there is a condenser which brings the fibres together, so that after drafting they should not move away from each other. Middle rollers are covered with aprons which are driven from these rollers. Aprons facilitate the drafting by making the fibres stay together. Actual drafting takes place between middle and front rollers. There is break draft between middle and back rollers which removes any twist in the rove so that further processes happen accurately. The top rollers are covered with synthetic rubber. The draft of the machine can be adjusted from 8 to 80, but is generally kept between 14 to 28. The rove is then passed through the twisting zone where twisting is done to hold the fibres together. Twist is provided with help of a ring and traveller. In Zinser machines, flanged rings a re used which are lubricated. There is balloon control ring which controls size of the ring. The spinning ring and the ring traveler are mounted on the ring rail which continuously moves up and down so that the  bobbin gets wounded in proper way so that the removal of yarn becomes easier in cheese winding  process. The ring, a metal O is positioned horizontally above the spindle has a C shaped metal strip, which is the traveler. The traveler is free to rotate around the ring. Directly above the top of the spindle is the 20

yarn guide. Yarn passes through the front rollers of the drafting system and through the yarn guide, under the traveler and on to the package mounted on the spindle. When the spindle rotates, the length of the yarn between it and the traveler drags the traveler around the ring, one turn of twist being inserted for each revolution of traveler. Twisting and winding onto the package occur simultaneously, because the traveler revolutions are less than that of the spindle( friction between the traveler and ring retards the traveler speed), allowing the yarn to be wound onto the package surface. Specifications of zinser 451 machine

Application area

Staple fibres up to 200 mm

Count range

167-8 tex (Nm 6-120, Neworsted yarn 5.3-106)

Twist range

100–3500 T/m

Draft range

8–80 fold

Spindle gauge

75; 82.5 mm

Tube length

220–260 mm

Ring diameter

42–58 mm

Number of spindles

240–1200 (guage = 75) 180–1116 (guage = 82.5)

7. AUTO CONER – Its function is to remove the yarn faults with the help of an optical sensor and

splice and to produce bigger package from small ring bobbins. There are many defects which are produced after spinning like1. Neps- They have yarn diameter that is seven times more than the normal yarn. 2. Thick places•

Short- They have diameter which is 3 times more than normal yarn but of length 3 cms

•

Long- They have diameter which is 1.25 times more than normal yarn but of length 3.5 cms or above.

1. Thin places- They have diameter which is -20% that of normal yarn but of length 3 cms or  above. To remove these defects, we use Auto coner machines. Auto Coner is a highly automated m/c as in this m/c the empty ring bobbin are automatically replaced, splicer automatically joins the broken ends. More over an optical sensor equipped with cutters detect the thick and thin places, slubs, neps etc and splice the broken ends together. All the grooved drums are individually driven and the length of yarn on package is fixed so that the m/c automatically stops after the required length of  yarn.

21

Fig.1.7- Graph showing percentage defectives in spinning every month

Process parameters in New Spinning Top making Material

Poly/wool Pure wool

Yarn count(Nm)

1st passage

Upto 50 Above 50 10-25 32-80

8-10 8-10 8 8

Doubling

2nd passage Nominal draft 7.0-8.4 7.2-8.6 7.0-9.8 7.0-9.8

Wrapping (Gm/Mtr) 22.0 20.0 24.0 22.0

Doubling

8 8 7 7

Nominal draft 8.0 8.0 7.0 7.0

Wrapping (Gm/Mtr) 22.0 20.0 24.0 22.0

Combing Poly/wool and pure wool Quality

24 Nm to 52  Nm P/W 60 Nm P/W(85/15) 48 Nm to 60  Nm P/W 61 Nm to 80  Nm P/W 90 Nm to 100 Nm P/W 78Nm AW 17.5 MIC 60 Nm to 70  Nm AW 20-18.5 MIC 25 Nm to 60  Nm AW 28 MIC

No. of ends to feed 24

Feeding (gm/mtr) 348

Nip distance (mm) 36

Feed length (mm) 6.7-15T

Top comb (PPCM) 28

Speed (nips/min) 190

24

276

36

6.8-17T

30

190

24

324

36

6.7-15T

28

190

24

300

36

6.7-15T

28

190

24

324

36

6.7-15T

28

190

24

300

36

6.7-15T

30

190

24

324

36

6.7-15T

28

190

24

444

36

6.7-15T

28

190

Spinning parameters for pure wool yarns 22

Count (Nm)

Count range

Fibre specification

Tpm

2/10 1/12 1/18 2/25 2/25 2/32 2/38 2/44 2/60 2/70

9.9-10.1 11.7-11.9 17.9-18.1 25.0-25.2 25.0-25.2 31.9-32.1 38.0-38.3 43.5-43.8 59.6-59.8 69.6-69.8

28.5 µ 28.5 µ 22.5 µ 18.5 µ 28.0/28.5 µ 20.5/20.8 µ 22.5 µ 22.5/24.5 µ 20.0 µ 18.5/19 µ

356 356 435 475 475 455 519 630 705 779

Twist wheel

White

44T 44T 36T 33T 33T 65T 57T 47T 42T 38T

Dyed/mix shade

Speed

Ring tr.

Speed

Ring tr.

9000 8500 8500 9500 8400 7500 7000

21 21 22 24 25.5 27 27

5500 7500 8000 8200 8900 8000 7400 6700

18 18 19 23.5 24 25 27 27

Spinning parameters for poly/wool blend yarns Count (Nm)

Count range

Nominal blend

Fibre specification

Tpm

1/18 1/24

17.8-18.0 23.8-24.0

49/51 55/45

3.0D/21,22.5 µ 3.0D/22.5 µ

423 510

1/30 1/58 2/24 2/32 2/40 2/48 2/60 2/78

29.5-30.0 57.6-57.8 24.4-24.5 32.4-32.6 40.4-40.7 48.4-48.7 61.0-61.2 78.8-79.2

55/45 55/45 70/30 70/30 65/35 55/45 85/15 40/60

3.0D/22.5 µ 2.5D/18.5 µ 3.0D/22,24.5 µ 3.0D/22.5 µ 3.0D/22,24.5 µ 3.0,2.5D/22.5 µ 2.5D/22.5 µ 2.5D/18.5 µ

779 822 435 485 630 630 897 822

Twist wheel

White

Dyed/mix shade

Speed

Ring tr.

Speed

Ring tr.

37T 38T

8900

19

7500 8700

18 19

58T 36T 36T 61T 47T 47T 33T 36T

-

-

8900 9500 10500 10200 11000 8800

19 21 23 24 24 27

10000 9200 8700 9200 10000 9800 10000 8500

23 25 19 21 23 24 23 27

Process parameters: Drawing and Speed frame Doubling - D Nominal Draft - ND Wrapping(gm/mtr) - W Material Poly/wool

Yarn count

3rd passage

4th passage

5th passage

6th passage

Roving

18-34

D 8

ND 8.0

W 22.0

D 8

ND 8.0

W 22.0

D 4

ND 7.7

W 11.5

D 4

ND 7.1

W 6.5

N 11.34

W 0.57

35-42

7

7.0

22.0

8

8.0

22.0

4

7.7

11.5

4

7.6

6.0

10.92

0.55

43-48

7

7.3

21.0

8

8.2

20.5

4

7.8

10.5

4

7.6

5.5

11.55

0.48

49-53

7

7.0

20.0

8

8.0

20.0

4

8.0

10.0

4

8.0

5.0

11.55

0.43 23

54-63

7

7.0

20.0

8

8.0

20.0

4

7.6

10.5

3

7.5

4.2

11.55

0.36

60

7

7.4

19.0

10.5

3

7.9

3.8

11.55

0.33

7.0

20.0

19.0 20.0 20.0

7.6

7

8.0 8.0 8.0

4

64-72

8 8 8

3

6.7

9.0

3

7.7

3.5

11.55

0.30

78-80

7

7.0

20.0

8

8.0

20.0

3

7.1

8.5

3

7.7

3.3

11.55

0.29

90

7

7.0

20.0

8

8.0

20.0

3

7.5

8.0

3

8.0

3.0

12.48

0.24

100

7

7.0

20.0

8

8.0

20.0

3

7.5

8.0

9

7.2

30.0

8

8.0

30.0

4

6.9

17.5

5.3 3.0 12.5

0.24

10

6.0 7.1 5.6

12.48

Pure wool

4 4 4

9.0

1.39

and

12

9

7.2

30.0

8

8.0

30.0

4

7.5

16.0

4

5.8

11.0

9.0

1.22

Wool/Visc

18-21

9

7.2

30.0

8

8.0

30.0

4

7.5

16.0

4

7.5

8.6

10.92

0.78

22-25

8

8.0

24.0

8

8.0

24.0

4

8.0

11.8

4

6.3

7.5

10.92

0.68

26-28

7

8.0

24.0

8

8.0

24.0

4

8.0

11.8

4

7.4

6.5

10.92

0.60

29-38

7

7.3

21.0

8

8.0

21.0

4

7.8

10.8

4

7.9

5.5

11.34

0.49

39-44

7

7.3

21.0

8

8.0

21.0

4

7.3

11.5

3

7.5

4.6

11.34

0.40

48

7

7.3

21.0

8

8.0

21.0

4

7.3

11.5

3

8.0

4.3

11.76

0.37

49-60

7

7.3

21.0

8

8.0

21.0

4

8.0

10.5

3

7.9

4.0

11.76

0.34

61-64

7

7.3

21.0

8

8.0

21.0

3

7.4

8.5

3

7.5

3.4

11.76

0.29

70-72

7

7.3

21.0

8

8.0

21.0

3

7.4

8.5

3

7.5

3.4

12.48

0.27

78-80

7

7.4

20.8

8

8.0

20.8

3

7.6

8.2

3

7.8

3.3

12.48

0.26

One extra passage for poly/wool blend of count 60Nm in 4 th passage and for pure wool of count 100  Nm in 6 th package

POST SPINNING Organization chart General manager( Mr N.K.khanna)

Manager(R.K.S.Malli)

Chandan Singh Sehgal (Dou.yarn staff incharge)

Kunal Panday (Shift incharge)

R.K.Khanna (Asst.manager)

V.K. (Tech.off)

24

Jugal kishor  (Tech.off)

Shashi Sharma (tech.off)

The main purpose of post spinning department is to convert the single yarns in to 2 or 3 ply yarns  by applying twist to that yarn. For that, the first stage is that of assembly winding in which two or  more packages are wounded on a single package without imparting any twist on them. Then the package is sent to TFO where two or more yarns are getting converted into single yarn by applying twist to them. The twist is imparted with the help of rotation of spindle on which yarn is getting unwind and the drum speed with which the package is rotated. The motion is transferred through a pulley, pulley belt and through gears. After TFO, yarn is send to autoclave for heat set to set the twist in the yarn. In this, yarn is subjected to vacuum, steam, and air for setting the twist in it. Then this yarn is set for conditioning and then the yarn is sent for winding according to customers requirements.

PROCESS SEQUENCE Single Yarn from New Spinning

Assembly Winding ( 6 M/C) Two single yarns parallel wound on cheeses (Untwisted Yarn )

Two For One Twister ( TFO ) ( 53 M/C) Yarn is twisted and wound on required package. Two twists for one rotation of spindle.

Steaming ( Auto Clave) ( 2 M/C) Yarn is steamed under temp and pressure to set the twist and avoid snarling

Conditioning ( 8 Hrs ) 25

Course Count 2/24, 2/32 P/W

Winding ( 4 M/C)

Double Yarn Store

OCM Yarn C/ Spinning Yarn

Issued to Weaving To Packing Section

DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESSES ASSEMBLY WINDING This preparatory stage for production of ply yarn consists of winding together 2-3 single yarns on suitable package. It produces ply yarn, which are free from defects from due to balance tensioning of single yarns. Its main function is to make packages of required weight. Two processes are carried simultaneously ie. clearing the yarn and providing a larger feed package. There are two sectionsright and left, both sections containing 60 spindles. Each package is wounded with two or three ends according to the requirement of the ply of the yarn. In assembly winding, no twist is provided to the yarn. Also, there is a proper sequence of threading for proper winding. There is a sensor which senses the breakage of the yarn and lifts the package from the rotating drum. To hold and lift the package from rotating drum, there is spring liver mechanism. The m/c has group drum winder (drum diameter of 90 mm and drum r.p.m of 300). The speed of  m/c is 300 m/min and weight of package formed is 1080 gm. There were 6 assembly winding machines in OCM. The yarn path is as follows Two package ( single yarn ) 26

Tensioner (disk type)

Stop motion (electronic)

Guide wheel

Thread guide

Drum winder 

Package (parallel wound)

TWO FOR ONE TWISTER(TFO) The yarn from the double package gets twisted like the roving in the speed frame. Then it comes out from the central hole of the disk, moves below to come out of the outer hole to form a balloon and gets twisted in a similar mode to that of ring spinning. Therefore for each rotation of the disk the output yarn gets twisted. This type of twister not only gives higher production but also produce superior quality of ply yarns with fewer knots due to larger package. For p/w t.p.m given is from 590-890 depending upon count, and spindle speed 8000-10000 also according to the count. For woolen, t.p.m given is from fr om 360-760, and spindle speed is 6000-7000 depending upon count. The twist is imparted with the help of rotation of spindle on which the yarn is getting unwinded and the drum speed with which the package is rotated. The motion is transferred through a pulley, belt and gears. There are four gears,by changing these gears we can change the amount of twist. There were 56 TFO machines in OCM. To find the amount of twist: T.P.M= Spindle speed / delivery per minute

The yarn path is Package (Assembly Winding)

Hollow Spindle With Capsule Tensioner 

Twister  27

Thread Guide

Roller Guide With Stop Motion

Tensioner 

Traverse Guide

Package (Cheese)

Fig.1.8- Two for one twisting

Fig 1.9- Graph showing production of plied yarn from TFO every month

STEAMING (AUTO CLAVE) To set the twist and remove snarling, steaming is done to the yarn through auto calve. The package are packed into perforated basket and entered into an auto clave. In autoclave, the yarns are subjected to vacuum, then to steam and then twist is set as fibres get relaxed. The cycle is started according according to whether it has to be given a single cycle or repeat cycle. The choice of cycle depends depends upon the amount of twist in the material. The high twist material requires to repeat cycle and the material containing synthetic fibre can be set with a single steaming cycle only.

28

Some features of Autoclave machine are: •

540 kg of yarn can be steamed at a time.

•

Steam moves inside out.

•

Temperature around 90 degree Celsius.

Fig1.10- Autoclave for steaming

Conditioning After steaming, conditioning is done for about 4 hrs. For wool, around 24 hrs is spent on conditioning.

Rewinding It is done for removal of knots to avoid pin holes in the fabric which are form during finishing, rewinding on paper cones or material that are not to be used in the mill. S .No

Machine

Manufacturer

No. of M/C

Drums

Speed

1.

Assembly winding

P.S Metler

6

720

300m/ min

2.

T.F.O

Leewha

53

7632

22-25m/min

3.

Autoclave (steaming)

Stafi

2

-

-

4.

Rewinding

P.S Metler

4

480

450 m/min

Total capacity of post spinning department is 9 tonnes per day but they were able to get the output of 6 tons.

DYE HOUSE 29

Organizational structure D.G.M ( Mr. S.K Pandey )

Sr. manager ( Mr. Kamaljit Bhardwaj )

Asst Manager ( Mr. Rajeev Walsen )

Sr. manager ( Mr. Choudhary)

Asst manager ( Mr.Chetan Kumar)

Tech Officer ( Mr. Pankaj Kumar)

Tech Superviser

Tech officer ( Mr. Shukla)

Yarn dyeing & lab incharge

( Mr. Ashok Kumar)

(Mr. Balpreet Singh)

The dye house unit is a major operational unit in the company. The product is given its proper and required shade in the dyeing house. The raw wool received as raw material is of white or natural colour and dye house dyes the wool into the required shade according to the market demand and the customer’s order. The product is dyed in dye house keeping in mind its composition and the quality. In OCM 3 types of dyeing are done 1. Top Dyeing( Fiber form) 2. Yarn Dyeing( After yarn has been made) 3. Fabric Dyeing( After fabric has been made) In OCM, dyeing is more concentrated on top dyeing. Approximately 85% of dyeing is top dyeing, 10% is yarn dyeing and 5% is fabric dyeing.

Process sequence for top dyeing 30

Tops Loading in machine

Rinsing

Addition of chemical through stock tank 

Run for ten minutes

Addition of Dyes

Shade checking

Addition

Rejected

Passed

Draining

Soaping

Application of antistatic agent and neutralizer 

Light shade

Unloading

Hydro Extractor

Dark shade

Back washing

R.F Drier

Top making Defelting and top making

Dispatch

List of machines Machines HTHP HTHP

M/C Capacity 250 kg 200 kg

No. Of M/C 4 3

Manufacturer Dalal Engg., India Dalal Engg., India

Liquor Capacity 2500 2000

31

HTHP HTHP HTHP HTHP HTHP HTHP Machines Beam dyeing Autoclave Jigger dyeing Hydro extractor Cheese Hydro

120 kg 100 kg 50 kg 25 kg 12 kg 6 kg M/C Capacity 100 kg 100 kg 130 kg 250 kg 200 kg

extractor  Backwasher R.F dryer 850 KW Vigouean printing 600 kg

1 3 2 2 1 1 No. Of M/C 2 2 2 1

Dalal Engg., India Dalal Engg., India Dalal Engg., India Dalal Engg., India Dalal Engg., India Dalal Engg., India Manufacturer Hindustan Engg. Staffi Calico India Mt. Textile Engg. Dettin Berta, Italy

1 2 1

Taylor wood UK   Stray field UK   Prince smith UK  

1000 1000 750 250 170 100 Speed

1500 rpm 1500 rpm

m/c

Dye method for different types of fibres 1. 100% Polyester Yarn/Tops/Fabric Ammonium Sulphate( Buffer Soln)

=2g/L

Satamol Ws ( Dispersing Agent)

=0.5g/L

D.F.T (Leveling Agent)

=0.5g/L

Cif (Wetting Agent)

=0.1g/L

Acetic Acid ( Buffer Soln)

=1g/L

Ph

= 5.0

Temperature

= 135 Deg

Time

= 40 Min

Process for dyeing 100% Polyester Polyester  50 degree celcius Chemicals addition(10 min)

Dyes addition(10 min mixing) 3 deg/min(gradient) 95 deg celcius 32

1 deg/min 135 deg celcius(dyeing temperature)

10 min(light shade) 20 min(medium shade) 30 min(dark shade) After treatments Soaping( unfix dye clearance)

Neutralize

Antistate(lubrication(SAPKO-1556))

Chemicals added 1.Ammonium sulphate 2.Acetic acid 3.Levelling agent- Lixatron DFT 4.Wetting agent- Lixatron CIR 

2. 100% Wool Yarn/Tops/Fabric Sodium acetate( Buffer Soln)

= 1.58g/L

Lixatson set( leveling Agent)

=0.75g/L

Cir (Wetting Agent)

=0.2g/L

Acetic Acid ( Buffer Soln)

=1g/L

Ph

= 4.5

Temperature

= 98 Deg

Time

= 40 Min

Process for dyeing 100% Wool WOOL

40 degree celcius 33

Chemicals addition(10 min)

Dyes addition(10 min mixing) 1 deg/min(gradient) 70 deg celcius(hold for 10 minutes) 1 deg/min 98 deg celcius(dyeing temperature)

10 min(light shade) 20 min(medium shade) 30 min(dark shade) After treatments Soaping( unfix dye clearance)

Neutralize

Antistate(lubrication(SAPKO-1556))

Dyes used for different materials For wool

ISOLAN BLACK 2S SRGL ISOLAN BROWN 2S-BL ISOLAN YELLOW 2S-2GLN ISOLAN DK BLUES2--GL ISOLAN RED 2S-BK  LANASYN YELLOW 2R  LANASYN GREY G LANASYN BROWN GOI LANASYN BLUE 5G LANASYN BLUE 2R  LANASYN BLACK B LANACRON RED G IRGALON BLACK AMR  TERASIL BLACK MAW

For polyester

DIANIK BROWN 6 DIANIK NAVY S24 CORALENE YELLOW C4GH CORALENE PINK REL

Different chemicals and their functions

34

Chemicals Ammonium sulphate Setamol W S/ Lixaton W S Metaxil D F T/ Livaton D Ft Cibaflow C I R Acetic acid Sodium Hydro Sulphate Caustic Soda Sivatol Sapco 1556 W B Sodium Acetate Irglan HTV Unipol FBSE

Function For buffer   Dispersing Agent Levelling Agent For Polyester   Dearrating agent For Ph Reduction Clearing Chemicals Alkali Detergent Antistatic agent For Ph in case of wool Wool protecting agent Leveling agent

There was a testing lab in which samples were tested and also different shades were made by doing experiments(as required by design department). Liquor ratio used in dyeing was 1:10,but in testing lab, it was 1:20.

Process for dyeing Poly/Wool blends The process for polywool blends is same of that of wool but there are some extra chemicals added to the solution. They are1.Carrier- it helps to reduce the temperature of exhaustion from 135 deg celcius to 115 deg celcius. 2.Wool protector- wool generally gets damaged at 98 deg celcius, but by wool protector the wool

is not damaged till 120 deg celcius.

3. T/W Blended Fabric/Yarn Sodium acetate( Buffer Soln)

= 1.5g/L

Setamol ws ( Dispersing Agent)

=0.5g/L

DFT ( leveling Agent)

=0.5g/L

Lixaton set ( leveling Agent)

=0.1g/L

Cir (Wetting Agent)

=0.2g/L

TCI ( carrier agent)

=1.0g/L

Acetic Acid ( Buffer Soln)

=1g/L

Ph

= 4.5

Temperature

= 120 Deg

Time

= 30 Min

Process for dyeing T/W Blended Fabric/Yarn

35

Process starts at 50 deg. The heat to the material is then ascended by 1 deg/ minute till 85 degrees. This is then holded at the same temperature for 10 minutes. The heat is further increased by 1 deg/ min till 120 degrees. The material is further kept at the same temperature for 30 minutes. Further the material is cooled by 5 deg/ min.

HTHP Machines This machine is used both for fiber and yarn dyeing. It consists of stock tank, dye addition and main dye vessel, which is a cylinder with domed ends, upper being lid, securely locked by sliding ring. The lid is raised by pneumatically operated cylinder at the back of machine. The pump is fitted immediately below the main vessel. There are two pumps,one is turbo pump, and other is injector    pump. Turbo pump is used to transfer water, chemicals, and dyes from stock tank to main dye vessel and is responsible for in to out and out in motion of liquor during dyeing. Injector pump is used to transfer the liquor from dye addition to main dye vessel. The stock tank is provided with a stirrer. Water in let and drain valve are provided in the stock tank and main dye vessel.

Processes while dyeing in HTHP machine Loading Water in take Rise in temperature Addition of chemicals Holding Addition of colors Colors transfer to main vat Rise in temperature Holding Sample checking Rise in temperature Cooling Drain 36

Washing Rinsing Addition of antistatic agent Unloading

Fig.1.11- Dalal HTHP dyeing machine

Hydro extractor After the dyeing process is completed, the material contains some amount of water. To remove this water from the material, we use hydro extractor. The principle of centrifugal force to push the water  out of the material through a perforated cylinder is applied on this machine. The perforated cylinder  is continuously rotated with the help of motor and belt. The centrifugal force acting outwards force the water out through a perforated surface while this water is being carried out by the outlets in the external cylinders in which the perforated cylinders rotate. There are two hydro extractors for tops and one for cones of yarns. While using these machines, following things should be kept in mind: •

Wool tops and polyester tops should be loaded separately.

•

Different shade tops are loaded separately

After drying the material from the hydro extractor the material is still left with 20% to 30% moisture in it.

37

Fig.1.12- Hydro extractor

Specifications of hydro extractor used for drying tops

Capacity Wool tops that can be loaded Polyester tops that can be loaded Duration Speed Basket diameter Basket height Motor

250 kgs 10 20 30 min 700 rpm 60 inch 20 inch 15 hp

In every two months, following list is checked for hydro extractor • • • • •

V belts for proper tension and condition. Clutch of machine Limit switches. Any abnormal sound and vibration of machine. Lubrication of moving parts.

Radio Frequency Dryer (R.F DRYER) It is used to remove the left over moisture (after hydro extractor) from the material being dyed. Generally, the non metabolic substances undergo a rise in temperature when subjected to high frequency electromagnetic circuits. Each time the polarity of the field is changed, the polarity of the molecules is changed. This constant molecular movement causes friction, which in turn leads to rise in temperature. During the R.F heating process, the product passes through an electrode system and therefore  becomes powerful RF voltage of a frequency of 27.12 MHz. The molecules of ionic substance such as water readily realign themselves with very high frequency e.m.f and becomes heated very rapidly. This process on the other hand does not affect non-ionic substance. There are two fans  provided for removal of the moist air. Components of RF dryer •

RF dryer consists of belt which is used to carry the material at the adjusted speed, like 6 m/hr for wool, 7m/hr for yarn, and 12m/hr for polyester.

•

RF field produced by lower & upper electrodes, which are connect to tank directly. 38

•

Suction system for sucking the water vapors, which evaporate from the material being dried.

•

Coolers which are used for cooling the water, which is circulated round the triode valve to keep it cool and get heated in turn.

Fig.1.13- RF dryer

Specifications of RF dryer

R F Power  Frequency Conversion Efficiency Unit Cooling Electrical Supply Electrical Power  Modular Conveyor 

15 Kw 27.12 MHz 70% - 75% Forced Air Cooled 410V 3ph 50Hz 26 kW Max 800 mm wide

Back Washing Machine The back washing machine is used to remove the excessive dye from the surface of the fibres ( in case of dark shades only) and also to provide anti stat oil to the fibre to privilege their processing in the spinning department. It consists of three chambers1st chamber contains soaping solution to remove excessive dye. 2nd chamber contains acetic acid to keep the pH in the range of 4-5. 3rd chamber contains the tops are squeezed with the help of the squeezing rollers. The pressure of  the roller varies accordingly to the number of tops in the sheet. After passing through the third chamber, the sheets of fibre is led through the dyeing chamber  where the fibres are being dried and thus made ready for further processing.

39

Fig.1.14- Back washing

Chemicals used and their functions

Silvatol Sapco 1556 Cresmar RFA Acetic acid Eripsan OS

Soap Oil for wool Oil for polyester   To remove superfluous Soap

Polyester tops Bath number 1. 2. 3.

Chemical Eriopon O.S and soda ash Acetic acid Crimsor

Quantity kg/hr 2.0 and 0.5 1.0 1.5

Temperature(deg) 70 30 50

Chemical Silvatol and soda ash Acetic acid Sapco 1556

Quantity kg/hr 2.0 and 0.5 0.5 2.0

Temperature(deg) 50 30 50

For wool tops Bath number 1. 2. 3.

Vigoureaux printing machine This machine gives a hinting effect to the tops being processed after they have been passed through the back washing or also for gray fibers. Two engraved rollers having inclined engraved lines on their surfaces produce the effect. The printing paste is provided to these rollers through intermediate rollers covered with felt, which gets ink from a rubber-coated roller immersed in the printing paste. In this machine 6 to 8 tops are fed from the back end of the machine and they are passed through drafting rollers having draft set accordingly. After this printing takes place the tops sheet are collected in the drums and send for steaming. Through this machine various effects are generated on the fibers that in turn give very nice appearances on the fabric. Capacity of this machine is 600 kgs per shift. Preparation of the paste-

There are 2 stock tank in which the printing paste is prepared. It consists of stirrer, water is fed to the stock tank and then the dyes and auxillaries are also fed into it and stirred for 1 hr with help of  stirrer. The temperature is kept at 60 degree. Chemicals used for making paste

40

1. Urea 2. Lyogen V 3. Calsoline Oil 4. Defoamer  5. Acetic acid 6. Citric acid 7. Dye The machine consists of  •

Two engraved rollers having engraved lines on them opposite to each other.

•

Two furnishing roller which gives colour to the engraved rollers.

•

Bowl in which printing paste is provided.

•

Gilling elements which makes the top uniform.

•

Draft rollers, Conveyor chain and Guide rollers

Steamer Steamer is used to fix dye after printing on wool. 12 kg of wool can be fed at a time. Cages are first loaded into chamber and then the door is closed and locked automatically. Then the air from inside the chamber is removed with the help of pump. Then steam is supplied to the chamber. After 1 hour  the pressure is released and cages are removed. Dark shades are processed for 2 hours. Temperature inside the chamber is kept around 100 degree. After steaming the slivers are sent to back washing for washing. Total time for this process is 95 mins. Division of time is as follows : Operation

Time taken

Vacuum creation

5 min

Rise in temperature

10 min

Steaming

60 min

Steam release

5 min

Cooling

15 min

Defeltor section The fibers during dyeing get entangled. Therefore to parallelize and make a new compact top, so that there is no much problem in further processing, tops are sent to defeltor section which has 5 defeltor machines. Maximum 12 slivers can be fed to a machine but the actual numbers which is used to feed is from 6 to 8. In these machines, fibres are separated from each other and slivers are converted to tops. The draft is set from 6 to 8 according to the requirement and the linear weight required in final top’s sliver. Capacity of machine is 600 kg per shift.

Fabric dyeing 41

Fabric dyeing department is near the finishing department so that the fabric after dyeing can be easily taken from dyeing to the finishing department. The explanation of the fabric dyeing machines is as follows.

Jet dyeing machine It is a high temperature and high pressure machine and is mainly used for dyeing polyester portion  present in the blended fabrics. Process sequence

Loading of fabric Washing at room temperature for 10 min Temperature is raised to 60 degrees Run for 5 mins color addition Temperature is raised to 130 degree Hold for 30 minutes Cool to 60 degree Drain Washing for 5 minutes Unloading In this machine, liquor moves and carries cloth with it i.e. both fabric and liquor move. The machine consists of a dye vessel which can be pressurized. A jet is provided in the main dye vessel, which helps in movement of fabric. A material roll is provided which lifts the fabric from the bottom of  dye vessel and feeds to the jet. There are two pumps, one is turbo pump and other is injector pump. One filter is provided which removes the fibers from the dye liquor. Liquor is heated by the heat exchanger. Addition tank is provided in which dyes and chemicals are present in dissolved state. Injector pump is used to transfer liquor from addition tank to dye vessel while turbo pump supplies liquor to the jet. The material to liquor ratio is 1:9, jet pressure is kept 1.2 kg/cm square. Capacity of  machine is 250 kg.

Chemicals used Chemicals Sodium acetate Acetic acid Uniperol FBSE

Quantity 1.5 g/l Ph 4.5 0.5 to 0.75%

Temperature 40 40 40

42

Nirosol Scm Defoamer Merapan HTW Cibaflow CIR

0.75-1% 0.3 g/l 3-4% 4.0 g/l

40 40 40 40

Beam dyeing machine Beam dyeing is used for dyeing polywool and all wool fabrics. In this machine, fabric remains stationary while liquor flow through the fabric. The pressure vessel has a circular cross section. At the center back of machine is the dye liquor inlet, feeding directly into the barrel of perforated beam and at back of the shell, just below the center is dye liquor outlet to the pump. Two rails running the full length of the vessel are mounted at the side about quarter of the way above the bottom; these rails support the weight of the rolls and accompanying cradle during dyeing operation. The doors surround at the front of machine is fitted with rubber seal and ring locking device securely locks the door. Beam is made of stainless steel and is fixed at both ends on the batching machine. First a grey cotton cloth is wrapped on the beam then material to be dyed is wetted and then wrapped on the machine. After this another layer of grey cotton is given which acts as support for the batch. After the batch is ready the beam is loaded in the machine. The basic equipment for beam winding consists of mechanisms to rotate the beam and good delivery system, which will allow the fabric to  be wounded on the beam without forming the creases .

Process sequence Loading of beam

Washing at room temperature for 10 min

Addition of chemicals(acetic acid and lyogen DFT)

Addition of dye at 50 degree

Heat the dye bath up to 70 degree

Hold for 15 minutes for light shades

43

For dark shades-35 to 40 mins

Drain the color at 130 degree celcius

Washing

Drain washing liquor 

Unloading the beam

44

Color Matching Procedures DefinitionsComponent- The name used for a dye top. Each component has an established standard for color. Finished blend- The name used for the blended blended top. A finished blend has an established established standard

for color. Lot- The name used for a manufacturing order. Component dyeing•

For each component, a standard dye formula is maintained.

•

For every component dye lot, samples of sliver are taken after backwashing and pinning. These samples are taken throughout the lot and are kept until all of the lot is consumed.

•

For each wool component lot, pads are made and color readings are compared to the stored standard and assessed to determine if they are good enough to use.

•

For each polyester component lot, sliver is used for color readings that are compared to the stored standard and assessed to determine if they are good enough to use.

•

A dye formula is modified if it is determined that the shade has drifted.

Top blending•

Planning Planning system issues production production order with a ssuggested ssuggested make up specifying specifying by mix, component, and lot. Initial working pads are made from this.

•

The working lot pad is read and plotted versus the stored standard.

•

Using both the spectrophotometric data and visual assessment, a decision is made whether to approve the working lot pad or to change the make up in order to move the color into an acceptable shade.

•

After shade approval, instructions are sent to planning to specify by mix, component and lot which items to use in the Finished Blend lot.

•

Planning issues the blend instructions to Blend Prep.

•

Blend Prep creels the blender as specified specified and informs the color control control technician technician that the lot is ready for review.

•

The color control control techni technician cian verifies verifies that that the lot is creeled creeled proper properly ly and releases releases it for   production. Samples are collected and new pads are made and checked for shade before the lot is released for production.

•

For larger lots, a sample is collected every eight hours and a pad is made and checked for  shade. This is a precaution to ensure that the shade has not drifted while the lot is running.

Finishing: 45

Top to finish lot purity •

When establishing the initial finished fabric standard, it should should maintain a pure dyed top lot through through yarn, weave, and finishing finishing so that top standard standard and finished finished fabric standard are of  the same base.

•

After standard established, its ok to mix dye lots in other processes.

Finish process when establishing standard •

Establish routing on finished fabric standard.

•

Take Take swat swatch ches es at crit critica icall proc proces esss poin points ts(( exam exampl plee- afte afterr scou scourin ring, g, befo before re chem chemica icall treatments).

•

Maintain good process control.

•

Review machine status for a midpoint control.(for example- KD blankets should not be new or old which will affect shade- it should be average life.

Establish standard •

Shade area to maintain master shade swatch, extra yardage from same piece and swatch for  customer.

•

Print spectrophotometer absolute values as per permanent reference.

Shade control during production •

Include a fabric routing step to check shade before any critical or irreversible processes. Develo Develop p run card card for these these areas areas if necess necessary ary(( exampl examplee check check shade shade before before chemic chemical al repellent treatments, if repellant is non removable then must use a run card and develop a "  before treatment " standard).

•

If order requires customer customer approval for each piece, the pieces must bee placed in a " hold" status to avoid shipping until approved.

Fig.1.15- Graph showing percentage defectives in dyeing every month

Fig.1.16- Graph showing production of dyed yarn every month

46

Weaving Organization chart of weaving General manager( Mr J.P.S Rana)

Manager(Mr.R.P Singh)

Chandan Singh Sehgal (Technical off.)

Pramod Shrama

V.K Ram

(Shift incharge)

(Asst.manager)

V.K  (Tech.off)

Weaving section is responsible for the conversion of yarns to the fabric. Weaving consists of three sections : Preparatory section Loom shed Greasy perch inspection

In ocm, the weaving department consists of 171 machines which are in working condition. S.no 1 . 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.

Machine name

Warping no.1

Speed in rpm 500

Numberof  Production machines 1 3 warps of 600 m per shift

Warping no.2 Warping no.3 Warping no.4 Warping no.5 Knotting machine Dornier loom(rigid rapier) Dornier loom(rapier)

250 500 500 360 400 280

1 1 1 1 2 60

240

42

Dornier loom( rapier) Winding machine Sulzer projectile loom Picanol(flexible rapier) loom Htvs dornier (rigid rapier)

180 300 250 360

8 2 16 32

360

4

2 warps of 500 m per shift 3 warps of 600 m per shift 3 warps of 600 m per shift 3 warps of 600 m per shift 16000ends knotted/shift/machine 2560 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi60 1535 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi60 220 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi-60 270 kgs of bits/ shift at 50% efficiency 610 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi-60 1755 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi60 220 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi-60

47

Process sequence Warping

Beaming

Weaving

Greasy Perch Inspection

Warping The weaving process starts with warping. In this section, the warp ends are being wrapped around the beam which are then put on to the machine. A warping plan is provided to the weaving department with a master card in which all the instructions regarding the weaving process are given. The wrapper makes seating according to this   plan on the warping machine and by doing the required calculations. While doing setting he considers the parameter of the reed width, warp length and according to that sectional width is decided.

Creeling It is a process of mounting a large number of wound packages onto a unit known as a creel. In OCM truck creels are used. In this type of creel the yarn packages are placed on spindles of truck in a  preparation area. A number of trucks are required per creel. At the time of a run, the yarn of each end is broken between the package and the guide and the trucks are wheeled out from the center of the creel to be replaced by the preloaded trucks. It is then necessary to tie the yarn from each new package to its corresponding end in the creel. Each thread is then drawn forward to the front of the creel in a strictly controlled order, which ensures that there is no crossing of the threads. At the front of each horizontal row of packages, on one side of the creel there is a row of guides where each thread passes under a trip wire. If a thread breaks during the course of processing, this wire falls to make an electrical contact and stop the machine before the broken thread becomes lost under subsequent ends of the yarn on the  beam. A light at the end of the relevant guide bar is illuminated in order to direct the operative to the source of the broken thread.

Sectional Warping As wool does not requires any sizing because of its high strength and the need for producing complicated patterns has resulted in the formation of sectional warping in place of high speed  beaming. 48

This is a two stage process. In the first stage yarn end from the creel is taken to the mill via a condensing rollers where they coverage into a single sheet, leasing rods for locating the broken ends, adjustable reed to set the width of a warp sheet to the exact distance between the flanges of  the beam. The sheet of the yarn is placed on a horizontal beam in sections. Each section contains a fraction of  the number of ends required in the final sheet. If a pattern is involved the order of the ends in each section is arranged to a similar so that in any circumstance that the amount of re-creeling between section is minimal. The length of yarn wound  per section is sufficient for one weaver’s beam only. Each section is inclined to the vertical with first section resting on incline at the end of the mill. This ensures that the threads do not fall off the top outside edge of the section to become buried under the ends of the next section build-up. When all the section have been wound on the drum the second stage of the process can take place. This involves the sheet being pulled of the drum and on to a beam during which time the mill transverse in the opposite direction and the same rate as that moved in the first stage. It is the transfer of warp sheet from drum to weaver beam. It requires about half an hour, while beaming two pressure rollers, which are spring loaded remains in contact with the beam to form compact beam.

Fig.1.17- Diagram of warping mechanism

There are four warping machines in the ocm mill: •

Benninger warping machine- There are two of its kind. These machines are made in

Germany and has maximum rpm of 800 and maximum creel capacity of 400 ends. •

Salafost warping machine- This machine is from Switzerland and has creel capacity of 

348 ends. •

Robatex warping machine- This machine is from Ahmedabad and has creel capacity of 

504 ends. The beam speed is kept between 100 to 150 rpm.

DRAWING-IN

49

In weaving the process of threading warp ends through the eyes of the healds and the dents of the reed. The warp yarn required passing through the heald eyes in order to form the shed, it is not  possible that the loom may stopped to draw the ends. To save the time for production, the operation of drawing-in carried out separately. This operation includes the passing of ends through drop wire, heald eyes and dents of reed. TYEING-IN

In case of bulk production and the new quality having the same denting and drafting as previous one to save the time for production the operation of tying-in is done. If every end is tied to its corresponding end on the old beam, the drawing-in process can be omitted. The tying operation is done with the portable tying machine. For every warping machine there is a separate calculation device for doing setting in the machine. •

Total number of ends = reed count x reed width x ends per inch

•

Feed ratio = according to gears( set according to length of roll required)

•

After feeding these values, the computer will give the cone height.

•

After feeding the yarn length, computer will give number of rounds that we need for that length.

•

•

To find the total number of section that will be on the beam  Number of section = total number of ends / creel.

•

Section width = reed width / number of section.

•

To check the section width, there is a V reed.

After warping is over, beams are taken for drafting. According to the plan, ends are passed through different heald shafts and then the denting is done accordingly. Fig.1.18- Graph showing production in warping department every month

Fig.1.19- Graph showing percentage defectives in warping every month

WEAVING After denting, the beams with warp ends are taken for weaving where by movement of heald shafts, the fabric is formed by interlacement of yarns according to the lifting plan cut on the dobby cards. The main working principle of these machines is that their each process of shedding, picking, beatup set according to the degree of rotation to the main shaft. If not done then there is much more chances of damages of loom and fabric. In the loom, the weaver’s beam is placed at the back. Yarn ends from this beam are passed simultaneously through drop wires through the heald eye of the heald frame, dents of the reed to the fall of the cloth. The number of heald frames depends upon the weave and the passage of each warp threads through the heald eye depends up on the drafting plan. These heald frames move up and 50

down to form a shed through which a weft yarn is passed across. Weft insertion is done through different mechanisms like rapier, projectile, shuttle etc. the required length of the yarn is wounded onto a weft accumulator. The inserted weft yarn is cut from the entry side and push to the fell of the cloth by the reed. Then the tucking device in the next shade tucks in both sides. All the weft yarns are inserted through the same side of the m/c. The temples at the fell hold the woven cloth to prevent any weft wise contraction. The woven cloth is held tight by the tensioner rollers and is wound on to the cloth roll. The denting plans and the reed density dictates the e.p.i and the length of the cloth wound after each insertion cycle dictates the  p.p.i.

Fig.1.20- Loom warp passage

Loom warp passage

1. Warp beam 2. Warp sheet 3. Back rest roll 4. Feeler roll 5. Warp stop motion 6. Heald frames 7. Reed 8. front rest 9. Press roll (sand roll) 10. Guide rod 11. Take up roll

51

Fig.1.21- Weaving

Calculations •

Weight of warp = Ends per inch x reed width x length/count x 1000.

•

Weight of weft = Picks per inch x reed width/ count x 1000.

•

Weight per metre square = weight of fabric / length x width

•

Denting plan = number of ends per inch / dents per inch

Fig.1.22Fabric being weaved(selve dge yarn roll on right side)

Type of loom Dornier(Rigid Rapier) Sulzier(Projectile) Picanol(Flexible Rapier) Dornier HVT( Rigid Rapier)

Number of machines 110 16 32 4

Speed (rpm) 240,280,320 200 to 300 400 to 425 400 to 425

These machines have jacquard of 56,40 hooks which are 32 in number and all machines have dobby attached to them. These dobby have 20 to 28 shafts. All above mentioned machines have six different wefts carrying capacity. There are different needles for their weft, which come down according to the needle plan cut on the dobby cards. Length of beams of different looms is as follows: Looms Picanol

Beam length 2700 mm

52

Sulzier Dornier

2600 mm 2900 mm and 2700 mm

Weaving mechanismThere are three main motion of weaving. These are primary, secondary and auxiliary motion. Primary motion

Every looms requires three primary motion to produce a woven fabric. These motions are Shedding, Picking and beating. •

Shedding- Shedding is the name given to the motion, which moves heald frame up and

down in order to separate the warp sheet into two layers and form the shed in which weft yarn is passed. •

Picking- Picking is the second primary motion in which weft yarn is passed through the

shed. This is known as picking. •

Beating-up - Beating up is where the reed, mounted in a reciprocating sley, pushes the weft

into the fell of the cloth to form fabric. This requires considerable force, hence the term  beating-up. The crankshaft of the loom is responsible for the beat-up action which must take  place after each weft insertion and so it will make one revolution per pick inserted. Secondary motions

There are two secondary motions in weaving namely let-off and take-up. •

Let-off - The let-off motions ensure that the warp ends are controlled at the optimum tension

for the fabric that that is being woven. •

Take-up - The cloth take-up motions withdraw cloth from the fell and then collect it at the

front of the loom. Auxiliary motions

Auxiliary motions are warp stop motion, warp protector, weft stop motions and weft replenishment. •

Warp stop motion - Warp stop motions halt the loom when a drop wire falls as a result of 

end breakage. •

Warp protector motion - Warp protector motions stop the loom before beat-up in the event

of projectile falling to complete its traverse from one side of the loom to the other side. •

Weft stop motion - Weft stop motion halts the loom in the event of a break in the weft yarn.

•

Weft replenishment- Weft replenishment ensures a continuous supply of weft yarn to the

loom whenever a supply package becomes exhausted.

Rapier Loom 53

In the rapier loom there are two rapiers to insert the weft yarns. One rapier feed the filling yarns half  way through the shade of the warp yarn to the arm of the other side, which reaches in and takes it across the rest of the way. In OCM, there are both rigid and flexible rapier machines. There are 110 Dornier machines which are all rigid rapier machines. The width of these machines is 210 cms and speed is 240 to 280 picks per minute. There are 32 Picanol machines, which have speed of 400 picks per minute. These machines have width of 220 cms. they use flexible rapier in them. They are all electromagnetically controlled. Working of Picanol is similar to that of Dornier but efficiency of Picanol is better. There are four machines of Dornier HVT, which have width of 210 cms. These are also rigid rapier  kind but these are electronically controlled. HVT and Picanol machines have automatic accumulator  attached to them for providing weft ends at proper tension. In this machines no cut cards are used  but all designs are fed through control panel screen and all other settings are done electronically.

Fig.1.23- Rapier loom

Projectile Loom In the projectile loom weft yarn are carried by the projectile through one side to the other side. The  path of the projectile is governed by a continuously moving chain conveyor. The picking and projectile receiving units are separated from the moving sley. The sley (projectile track) carries the reed and gripper guides. The gripper projectile, made of fine steel, 90 mm long 14 mm wide and 6 mm thickness (3.5 in x 0.55 in x 0.14 in) weighs 40g (1.33 oz). It carries the weft thread into the warp shed. The weft is drawn directly from a large, stationary cross wound package. There is no weft winding. The gripper projectile is picked across the warp shed at very high speed, the picking energy being derived from the energy stored in a metal torsion bar which is twisted at  predetermined amount and released to give the projectile a high rate of acceleration.

Picking always takes place from one side, but several projectiles are employed and all of them return to the picking side by a conveyor chain located underneath the warp shed. During every flight 54

through the shed the projectile runs in a rake like steel guides, so that the warp threads are touched neither by the projectile nor weft thread. Every pick is cut off at the picking side near the selvedge after weft insertion, leaving a length about 15 mm from the edge. Similar length of weft also projects from the selvedge on the receiving side. The reed is not reciprocated as in shuttle loom, but rocked about its axis by a pair of cams. The sley which carries the reed and projectile guides, is moved forward and backward through a saddle carrying two follower bowls which bear against the surface of two matched cams. Whenever the reed width is reduced for weaving a small width cloth from the standard reed width, the projectile receiving unit is moved inward on the telescopic shaft, to the new selvedge position, and so the  projectile travel distance is reduced. There are 16 machines of Suzlier company which work on projectiles. These machines have width of 220 cms and speed of 300 picks per minute. There are 11 projectiles in a machine. WEAVING CALCULATIONS Total No. of ends = EPI X reed space (in inches) Weight of warp = EPI X reed space X cloth length (1+crimp% ) in yards

840 X Ne X 2.2 Weight of weft = PPI X cloth length in yards X reed space (1+crimp% )

840 X Ne X 2.2 Loom efficiency =

Actual production X 100 Calculated production

Again loom efficiency =

Actual running time

X 100

Actual running time + Stopped time PRODUCTION CALCULATIONProduction per shift (In meters) =

RPM X 60 X 8 X efficiency PPI X 39.37

Production per shift (In yards) = RPM X 60 X 8 X efficiency

PPI X 36

Greasy Perch Inspection After weaving each cloth goes for greasy perch inspection. This department various defects are inspected, occurring due to fault machines or improper work practices. Defect report is continuously delivered to the weaving department Technologist so that immediate action could be taken so as to 55

correct the defects occurring in the grey cloth. Greasy stain removal is done during inspection, by spraying a solvent (e.g. carbon tetra chloride on stain spots). After greasy perch inspection the fabric is forwarded to mending, where they are seen for these defects. The defects in fabric after weaving: Wrong draft

•

Stain

•

Missing pick 

•

Missing end

•

Temple cuts

•

Float

•

Floating ends

•

Thin places

•

Damage

•

Start up mark 

•

Reed marks

•

Broken pick 

•

MENDING Mending section corrects any kind of defects in the fabric. No specialized machines are used for this  job work. There are menders and workers in the mending section who remove the defects. Mending capacity is 12000 meters per day, but if defects are large in number, then the output reduces even up to 5000 meters.

Fig.1.24-

Mender in operation

The fabric from greasy perch is checked on the perches and the defects are removed. On the perch table and mending table defects like missing pick, missing end, bunches and knots are corrected. Float, damage, temple cut and wrong draft cannot be mended. The tools used for mending are•

Forceps- It is used to pick out and hold threads for mending.

•

Erasers- It is used to straighten out pulled or tight threads in the fabric.

56

Needles- It is used to repair defects such as missing end, missing pick where filling id done

•

according to the design of the fabric.

Fig.1.25- Operator

mending with a

needle

When the fabric is brought to the mending department it has to be mended and checked for defects within 4 hours and then has to be sent to the finishing department. Fabric is brought to the department for the weaving department after every shift. In the mending tables there are two tube lights overhead the worker and two tube lights underneath the mending table. After mending, perching is done to see whether all the defects in the fabric have been properly checked and mended by the mending department. The perches have two tube lights underneath the glass panel and two tube lights overhead the worker.  Number of menders in OCM are : 65  Number of women workers :30  Number of inspectors: 6  Number of mending tables : 75  Number of perch tables : 9

57

FINISHING Organizational chart G.M Finishing ( Mr. Ashok Handa)

Sr. Manager ( Mr. P.J Bhardwaj)

Shift A

General Shift

Asst Manager( Mr. Mohan Lal)

Shift B

Asst manager(Mr.Sukhbir singh)

Tech Officer ( Mr. Nirmal Singh)

Tech Officer ( Mr. Ashwini Kumar)

Asst. Manager ( Mr. Sanjay Joshi)

Asst. Manager (Mr. Vishal Kapali)

Supervisor ( Mr. Suresh Kumar) Finishing is an important process which is essential for the final appearance and the handle of the fabric. The choice and sequence of the finishing process depends up on the type of the material. Main purpose of finishing department is to provide luster to the fabric and give permanent shrinkage to the fabric so that the customers don’t complain about shrinkage of fabric after washing.

In OCM, the finishing department was divided into two sections- Wet finishing and Dry finishing.

58

The machines used in this department (in order of the material processing) areS. No 1 2 3

Machine Singeing Vulco Crab Scouring/ milling

Manufacturer Oshtoff, Italy MAT Zonco,

No. Of M/C 1 1 7

MAT Hemmer  France & lodge huddersfield 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Jigger Stenter

Scour mat France & lodge huddersfield Harish textli engg.

2 1

Cropping & shearing Decasting Kier decasting Rotary press Paper press Super finish Conti blow

Hirano kiazoka Company ltd Rollen wieder Dalal Biella shrunk process, Italy Corino, Mario crosta Arthur heaton & Co. Ltd. Hemmer Speroptio Rimar, Italy

1 2 1 2 1 2 1 1

Process sequence in finishing department Greasy woven Mending Lot preparation 59

Polywool (PD)

Polywool (PD)

Scouring

All-Wool

Singing

Hydro-Extraction Drying

Pre setting

Scouring

Scouring

Hydro-Extraction

Hydro-Extraction

Heat Setting

Drying

Drying

Checking & offered to D/H

Heat Setting

S.F.M

Dyeing S.F.M Dry Checking S.F.M Singeing Scouring Hydro Dry Cropping Open Blow Paper Press

Cropping

Rotary

Blow

Rotary K.D

K.D

Paper Press

K.D

K.D S.F

C.B S.F

C.B

S.F S.F

C.B

C.B

WET FINISHING SECTION CRABBING Crabbing is the setting process of wool. It helps in bringing dimensional stability to the fabric and eliminates distortions like crocking and uneven shrinkage. To set the cloth and the yarn twist permanently, wool fabric is passed over several cylinders that rotate in hot water and is then immersed quickly in cold water. 60

The cloth is held firmly and tightly to avoid wrinkling Repetition of the treatment with increased pressure results in setting of the cloth and the finish Effective crabbing depends on •

Tension(it should be uniform)

•

Duration of treatment

•

Composition of crabbing liquor(no alkali should be added)

•

Temperature( it must be constant)

•

Ph of the crabbing liquor.(should be maintained at 7)

VULCO CRAB MACHINE

Vulco-Crab is a wet fixing machine - crabbing – suitable for pure wool and wool-blended fabrics (clear finished or raised). The patented working principle is based on the idea of  “direct pressure” exercised by 7 pressure rollers individually pushed by two hydraulic cylinders against a heated drum around which the fabric passes together with a special impermeable silicone technical belt. With this solution the fabric undergoes through a high pressing effect with a sequence of strong crushing (over 50 Kg/cm2), such an action is developed with the fabric heated over 100°C in an environment saturated with steam. In fact part of the water contained in the fabric is transformed into steam when it comes in contact with the heated surface of the central effect drum, while the impermeability of the technical belt keeps the generated steam in contact with the fabric. These are the ideal conditions to guarantee a good fixing phenomenon - setting, where the chemical ties of the wool fibres are stabilized giving a “ flat memory” effect to the fabric. Immediately after, a quick cooling of the fabric on the discharge  part of the plant through the immersion in cold water, or as an alternative, through forced air  circulation around a perforated drum, optimizes the process. The stabilization of the fabric obtained in this way is useful to prevent defects (creases or marks) during the following operations of dyeing, washing or milling.

Heat, Humidity and Mechanical Pressure

These 3 components skilfully combined are the “secret” for a good setting action. Heat: The central drum and the belt are heated up to 180°C, by consequence the fabric reaches a

temperature well above 100°C. Humidity: The contact in between the wet fabric and the central drum hot surface creates a self-

generated steam which is kept in contact with the fabric thanks to the impermeable endless belt. Mechanical Pressure: 7 pressing rollers pushed by hydraulic pistons, placed around the central

heated drum, exert a strong flattening action on the fabric. The maximum effective pressure on the fabric is above 50 Kg/cm2, in fact the load of 6.000 Kg is distributed on a limited linear area 0,5 wide and 200 cm long. 61

Fig.1.26- Vulco crab machine

Working speed Maximun fabric width Belt width Steam supply pipe Steam consumption Compressed air supply Compressed air consumption Water consumption Diameter of Main cylinder Pressure cylinders Installed power Absorbed power

35 m/min 1.900 mm 2 .100 mm 3 bar   2 0 Kg/h 7- 8 bar   60 nl/min 2 0 ± 60 l/h 900 mm 2 15 mm 3 5 Kw 2 5 Kw

SINGEING In Singeing, the protruding fibres(loose hairs) are removed from the surface of the cloth, there by giving it a smooth, even and clean look, also reducing the pilling in the fabric. The cloth to be singed is passed over brushing roller so that the protruding fibres are away from the surface of the cloth. During brushing some of the loose fibres get removed. The fabric is passed over two burners. These two burner are supplied with LPG gas. The fabric path is arranged in such a way that both the surface are singed in a single pass. An exhaust chamber is provided over each  burner slot and is connected to an exhaust fan.. the products of combustion are led into exhaust and taken away from the machine. All wool fibres are not singed because when the protein fibres burns hard, black residue is produced, which is difficult to remove. There were 2 operators to operate the machine per shift. The polywool fabrics are given two rounds.

Machine- Oshtoff singeing machine, Italy. Set temperature- 110 deg Celsius Speed- 90 meters per min.

62

Burners- LPG gas.

Fig.1.27- Oshtoff singeing machine

SCOURING Scouring is a process in which we remove the natural impurities, dirt, greasy spots (from loom ) etc. These impurities interfere with subsequent finishing process, therefore scouring is must. There are some impurities which are not removed by scouring process. Therefore a special scouring process is carried out in which the material is first padded with special scouring chemicals on jigger and batch is left over night. After this process, normal scouring is carried out on the dolly rotary machine. Composition of scouring liquor is governed by nature of oil which has to be removed. Scouring chemicals are generally acetic acid and soda ash.

Hemmer machine This machine is used for both scouring and milling of the fabric. Both length milling and width milling can be done in this machine. It consists of two pairs of top rollers and bottom rollers. Fabric is passed between these rollers in rope form. Plates are provided which can be controlled  pneumatically. Water inlet and drain valve are also open closed pneumatically. Machine capacity is 200 kg.

MAT machine It is also used for both scouring and milling(length and width milling). It is also a rope scouring machine and consists of two pair of rollers and four metallic plates this machine contains four drain valves and four in let valves. A pump is provided in the machine, which brings the chemicals from the stock tank to the main vessel. Capacity of machine - 350 kg. Press of plates during milling - 2 bars Speed of the fabric - 150-200 m/min( maximum speed is 400 m/min).

Scour Mat 63

It is a rope scouring method used for terry wool fabric. It consists of pair of rollers between which ropes of fabric is passed. Maximum eight ropes can be loaded on this machine but six ropes are normally loaded. Two ropes at the end are not loaded to avoid the damage. To avoid the entanglement of the ropes, they are passed through rings placed just before the rollers. There is one water inlet valve and two drain valves, one for collecting plate, which heats the water which is to  be squeezed from fabric. This water then overflows from the plate and falls in it to the main vessel. The water is again picked by the fabric and again squeezed between the rollers. Capacity of Scour  Mat machine is 200 kg.

Fig.1.28- Scour Mat scouring machine

Dolly machine This machine is used for scouring and width setting of the fabric. The dolly machine is constructed with two heavy squeeze rollers and guide rollers. The bottom heavy roller is driven by chain pulley drive given from outside. The top roller rests on this roller  with fabric between them in rope from and is frictionally driven. A metallic plate is situated under  the heavy rollers to catch the expressed liquor. It is only when scouring is approaching completion that the liquor is discharged to facilitate quicker and more though rinsing.The pieces of cloth are made into endless chains in such away that they pass through the squeeze rollers, over guide rollers and under the though. When the machine is set under motion the pieces will rotate endless. The top roller is soft rubber coated and bottom roller is made of hard ebonite. In the metallic plate, a steam pipe is provided which is perforated to heat the water. Four jets of water at the back side of  the machine spray water with force on to the fabric. There can be possibility of processing four  ropes together. Capacity of dolly machine is 150 kg. Following points are to be checked for scouring machines•

Condition of upper and lower rollers.

•

Guage in between the rollers.

•

Water leakage and steam leakage from valves.

•

Condition of drain valves.

•

Air pressure where required. 64

•

Auto stop devices.

•

Cleanliness of machines.

MILLING It is done to shrink the material to maximum possible extent so that it does not shrink during its end use. The lot is loaded into the machine and its ends are stitched together to form an endless rope. Four such ropes are loaded in the machine. The machine consist of a fan, which blows air onto the fabric so that it opens before entering the compressing zone with closely placed steel bars followed  by squeeze rollers .the fabric then slides over the tray in plaited form before being drawn away by the winch rear and thrown into the milling liquor. During the milling cycle the milling liquor is also continuously sprayed over the material before entering the compressing zone. The liquor is with drawn from the addition tank, which is continuously replenished, by withdrawing the milling liquor  from the bottom of the machine. This process is based on the principle that the wool gets shrinked when it is rubbed in wet conditions and at certain temperature.

Process sequence Loading of fabric

Washing with detergents

Drain

Addition of milling chemicals

Drain

Washing

Addition of acid

Addition of softeners

Drain and Unloading

65

After milling, the material is sent in drying section. First process is hydro extraction. The material is loaded in the machine and rotated at high speed, and water gets extracted from the material. There are 3 such machines in OCM.

DRYING AND HEAT SETTING The drying and heat setting both is done by a stenter. The essential part of the machine, the end less chain, called pin plates run forward each side of the stenter frame. These chains are so held that the selvedge can be impaled on both sides. The pins are about 10mm long and mounted in two rows along the base plate, about 24 pins in approximately 7 cm. The fabric lies stretched in open width across the stenter frame and between the two chains of  the pin plates. Over feed is necessary to minimize lengthwise shrinkage in subsequent washing and dry cleaning. The fabric descents behind the fabric operator platform and passes underneath to a driven roller just above the floor level. It then rises upward in front of the operator and is contacted by the first scroll roller, then by a smooth idling roller followed by the main feed roller, rubber coated to insure good control. The fabric is then on to the same level as the pins and moves forward to join them. As the chains move forward carrying the fabric, it is arranged that they gradually diverge to required width and the fabric is thus stretched out to the width. Once the fabric has been brought to the required width, the two chains of the pin plates run parallel and take the fabric through a long, lightly constructed, heat insulated chamber where the drying takes place due to the hot air being circulated there in, as the fabric emerges completely dry and set in length and width. It reaches a  point when it leaves the pin plates and is folded into laps in trolley. Meanwhile, the pin plates attached to the endless chains return to the entry end of the stentering machine and there again pick  up the incoming fabric to bring it forward.  Near the end of the machine the fabric is lifted of the pins by the driven take off roller and passes round a pair of draw rollers, which deliver to an overhead plaiting mechanism. A large wire mesh screen is fitted in the side to remove fly or lint entering the system. Heat setting is done to avoid formation of creases and shrinkage. It provides dimensional stability to the fabric.

DRY FINISHING SECTION CROPPING AND SHEARING Objectives of shearing are•

To clear out the random length fibres and produce a uniform and level pile.

•

To reduce the height of the wild fibres and prevent pilling.

•

To produce a certain handle.

•

To improve the colors and appearance of the fibre. 66

In a shearing machine there is a spirally wound shearing blade, which revolves in contact with a ledger blade. The fabric passes over a cloth rest in front of ledger blade and the raised fibres flop against the ledger blade and are cut by the rotary blade. Suction units are incorporated for cleaning the working units .an automatic seam unit allows the steam to pass through. There are six searing units divided in three sets, each seats working on both faces of the fabric simultaneously. Static charge, which may build up in previous shearing units. This part of the machine is very important  because it prevents the formation of cropping mark, which results from the tendency of fabric rising up and sticking to the spiral blade. For cropping, there is a very important factor which is the distance between the fabric surface and the blade which is set according to the requirements. In this machine, the speed of the fabric movement is 20-25 meters and speed of the spiral blades is 1200 rpm.

DECATISING This process is used for improving the soft handle of the fabric. The fabric is wound together with an interleaving fabric on a perforated metal roller so as to form a reasonably thick roll, between each layer of the fabric of some thickness made of synthetic material. The machine consists of two rollers. A wrapper of terry viscose is wrapped around one roller. The fabric with wrapper is fed to other roller. Fabric can be fed from both sides of machine. When the fabric is fed from one side of the machine, the fabric is unloaded from the other side of the machine. Steam is blown from inside to outwards through the fabric which undergoes moderate pressure due to tight winding. The steam time is generally 4 minutes to produce smooth and flattening of the surface. The steam absorbed is expelled by lowering compressed air through the fabric in same way as it was blown through it. This air produces some cooling in the fabric. Specifications

Wrapper length Steaming time Cooling time Pressure Steam pressure Loading time

450 meters 4 minutes 3 minutes 5 kg/cm square 2kg/cm square One and half hour  

Kier Decatising This machine is used to give smoothness, luster and soft surface to the fabric. Also, it provides  bulkiness to the fabric and also controls fabric shrinkage both lengthwise and widthwise. It is also called final finish as after this, finished fabric will not shrink after washing, generally in case of wool fabric, as during spinning and weaving, the fibers get stressed( due to sulphide bonds 67

in wool structure). In kier decatising, the sulphide bonds get relaxed and get rearranged. By this machine, the width reduces by 1% and the length extends by 1.5%. The machine consists of three perforated metal rollers covered with wrapper. Fabric is wound on the roller with the fabric layer in between successive wrapper layers. This roller is send inside the kier for processing. There are two other rollers outside the machine, one of which is loaded while other is simultaneously unloaded. The process is similar to open decatising. The main difference is that steaming is done in a closed vessel and the process is more controlled than the open decatising. The wrapper length in this case is 600 meters and fabric length is 450 meters. The machine is electronically controlled and different programs are set in its memory according to the fabric composition. There are different methods of applying steam to the fabric. KD in-out : In this case the steam is passed out from the perforated cylinder and passed through the

fabric. The drain valves remain closed while steam is being applied. KD out-in : In this case the steam is applied from out side of the fabric roll to inside the drain

valve, and the drain valves are remained closed.

ROTARY PRESSING The material after cropping which is not decatised is taken for rotary pressing. The process in this machine is similar to simple ironing. But it is a continuous process i.e. fabric is fed from one side and is pressed in the machine with the help of iron roller and pressed fabric received from other side of the machine. The machine consists of roller and metallic plate having same curvature as that of  the roller. The material entered is taken over vertical moving roller, which is hydraulically controlled to properly aligned fabric at the centre of the machine. The material is passed over two  brushes to remove dust and loose fibres. The material is then taken to the main pressing zones. it consists of a big rotating steel cylinder roller heated internally by steam. Under this roller is a heated steel plate which can be moved up or down to press the fabric against the roller. It should be noted that the fabric should be damped with steam before hot pressing. Rotary process gives fabric a crisp handle and increase in luster. Specifications

Temperature of the roller Temperature of the base plate Speed of the fabric Pressure for polywool blend Pressure for polyviscose blend

120 degree 118 degree 15-20 minutes 15 tons 6 tons

In every two months, following list is checked for rotary press machines•

Lubrication of all moving parts.

•

Safety guard at the feeding end for correct position.

•

Water supply to the hydraulic pump for proper cooling.

•

Oil level of main gear box and hydraulic pump. 68

•

All the drives in the machine.

•

The brushing unit.

•

The take off rollers.

•

Air, oil and steam leakage from joints.

•

Stoning of calendring cylinder.

•

Descaling of cooling unit of hydraulic pump.

PAPER PRESSING After open decatising, the material is taken for paper pressing. This machine gives smoothness and shine to the fabric. The machine consists of compressed paperboards placed on a platform. The fabric is compressed between 2 paper boards. Surface of the board is very smooth. After every 40  paper boards there is paper board provided with copper wires which can be internally heated. After  loading the material in the machine it is transferred to the base of the hydraulic pressure unit and is heated for some time before pressure is applied. Then pressure is applied on the stock of the fabric   place between the paperboards for four hours and the material is unloaded. Pressing results in  parallelization and flattening of fibers. Hence surface of fibers becomes smooth and it reflects more light.

Fig.1.29- Workers folding fabric between paperboards

69

Fig.1.30- Paper pressing(fabric between the paperboards and copper wires for internal heat)

Specifications

Capacity Heating temperature Heating time Pressure Pressure time Loading time Reverting time

1200 meters 50 to 55 degree 2 hours 2 tons 4 hours 2 and half hours 2 hours

In every two months, following list is checked for paper press machines•

Brake of bed lifting motor.

•

Lubrication of moving parts

•

Oil leakage from the joints.

•

Limit switches of safety devices.

•

All the guides (made of fibre sheet).

•

Hydraulic pump, high pressure valve, low pressure valve, pressure release valve.

SUPER FINISH MACHINE This machine consists of a large diameter rotating cylinder. It is heated internally by steam. An endless thick belt(silicon rubber blanket) is arranged which presses lightly against the greater part of  cylinder to ensure that there is no friction or slip between the two. The suitably damped fabric is fed  between the blanket and cylinder an is so laid around the cylinder until it arrives at a point where the blanket leaves the cylinder and under the influence of this pressure and the moisture from the steam, the fabric has its surface completely smooth to acquire soft handle. Temperature of the roller  is kept at 140 degree. This machine gives smooth handle and lustrous look to the fabric. Every month, following list is checked for super finish machines70

•

Controls of the rotating cylinder 

•

The conveyor belt.

•

Guide rollers.

•

Endless belt control feeler and switches.

•

Hydraulic system and oil level.

•

Correct belt tension of rotor.

•

Pressure control devices and pressure reducing valves.

•

Position of the rotor in relation to the fabric sides and tension of its belts.

•

Roller effect for shine and cleanliness.

•

Distance between the fabric to the rotor unit( must be between 8 to 10 mm)

•

Flanges and rotary joints.

•

Lubrication of all moving parts.

CONTI BLOW This machine is similar to decatising machine but it is a continuous process. The function is to  produce compactness in the fabric. It consists of a perforated roller, which is covered with a silicon  blanket, a metallic plate is fitted below a roller and the continuous belt is also present which moves  between the rollers and plate. The fabric is fed between the roller and the plate. The fabric is then fed between the roller and the belt. Pressure is also applied in the process which leads to reduction in width. Specifications

Main steam pressure Speed of the fabric Air pressure Applied steam pressure

7 kg/ cm square 20 m/min 2 bar   4.7 kg/cm square

In every two months, following list is checked for Conti blow machines•

Air and steam leakage from joints.

•

Correct position of all the safety guards and limit switches of auto stop.

•

Setting of the bowing roller.

•

Steam strainers and steam trap.

•

Gap between steming jet and decatising cylinder.

•

Entire pneumatic steam valves.

•

Lubrication of moving parts.

71

Maintenance check points on finishing section machines Parts to be inspected Control panel

Check points 1.Check all connections. 2.O/L relay settings. 3.Contactors contacts. 4.Metering equipments.

Electric motors

1.Check bearings. 2.Carbon brushes. 3.Commutators. 4.Slip rings. 5.Dust filters.

Voltage stablizer

1.Servo system 2.Oil level. 3.Metering equipments.

Heators

1.Heating equipment.

Inspection notes 1.Must be tight. 2.Set as per motor ratings. 3.Check for pitting/ damage, clean or  Replace. 4.Check for zero errors. 1.Replace if noisy/ damaged 2.Replace if worn out or not of   proper size. 3.Must be smooth. Polish if pitted. 4.Must be smooth. Polish if pitted. 5.Clean properly. 1.Check its operation. 2.Must be maintained up to the mark. 3.Check for zero errors.

1.Check contuinity and repair or  replace if defective.

Per month consumption of different resources in the Departments (Average) Departments

Steam

Water

Electricity

Finishing (should be)

3.8 kg/mtr

68 lt/mtr

.47 kWh/mtr  

Funishing (actual)

4.6 kg/mtr

77 lt/mtr

.69 kWh/mtr  

Dye house (should be)

7.5 kgs/kg

100 lt/kg

.6kWh/mtr  

Dye house (actual)

8.3 kgs/kg

135 lt/kg

.92 kWh/mtr  

Weaving( should be)

-

-

.55kWh/mtr  

Weaving (actual)

-

-

.67kWh/mtr  

Spinning (should be)

-

-

3.4kWh/mtr  

Spinning (actual)

-

-

3.3kWh/mtr  

Post spinning (should be)

-

-

2.20 kWh/mtr  

Post spinning (actual)

-

-

2.14 kWh/mtr  

72

INSPECTION Organizational Structure Sr. Manager ( Mr. G.S Mehra)

Civil

Export

Manager ( Mr. Rajindra Sharma)

Manager(Ravi Sharma) Clerk ( Mr. Shashi Kumar)

Tech officer ( Mr. Surjeet Singh )

Tech officer ( Mr. Satya Pal)

In the inspection department, the fabric from the finishing department is brought in horse trolleys. Then the fabric is taken to the perches. Firstly it is taken to back side perching, where the fabric is  placed on a machine with its back facing the operator or inspector looking for defects in the fabric. As in general inspection machines, light is put on the fabric from the other side to find the defects easily. The fabric is inspected for the presence of faults manually and the faults are flagged according to the faults. 4 types of defects are basically looked upon, they are- clipping, damage, barre and stain.Six machines are used for the process. In this process two types of flags are usedWhite flag – for presence of minor faults (pin holes, marks) Yellow flag – for presence of major faults(start up mark, missing pick, damage etc,) White flags are used for the minor faults which are not adding major to the fabric. The yellow faults are those faults which cannot be removed from the fabric and has to be further cut from the fabric. These inspected fabrics are the further checked on the table where the faults are rechecked if the faults are under the white or yellow flag category. The fabric rolls are further processed (cut) according to the buyers demand. if the fabric length is 15 m and there are 10 white flags then the amount paid by the buyers will be of 14.90 m only. This means the buyer is given compensation for  this defect as 1% of total meters. Further the acceptable limit for the white flag is one in every 5m (max). No of machines

6 73

No of pieces/ (m/c) /shift

26

Length of fabric ( avg)

110m

Total amount of fabric inspected

6 x 26 x 110 m = 17160 m/shift

INSPECTION MACHINE

Fig.1.31- Operator inspecting the fabric and issuing flags to defects

Fig.1.32- Fabric inspection machine

VARIOUS DEFECTS IN FABRIC 74

SR. NO.

SPINNING

PREPARATORY

WEAVING

PROCESSING

1.

Thick places

Slack end

Missing end

Corrugation

2.

Thin places

Sizing stain

Starting mark

Water mark  

3. 4. 5.

Naps Slub Moiré effect

Double end Pulling mark Big knots

Broken end Broken pick Short pick

Crease mark   Stop mark   Crease mark  

6.

Cone change

Reed mark

Single mark  

7.

Coarse yarn

Temple mark

Skew impression

For the export market OCM uses the four point system Size of defect 3 inches or less Over 3 inches but less than 6 inches Over 6 inches but less than 9 inches Over 9 inches

Penalty points 1 2 3 4

The four point system is issued by the American Society for Testing and Materials(ASTM). Faults are scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4 according to their size and significance. In the inspection the total points are awarded to the fabric. The general tolerance limit for the presence of  the defect is 25 points per 100m roll of the fabric. Again this tolerance limit depends upon buyer  some has strict limits some are liberal in their tolerance level. Generally the yellow flag faults are not removed for the export market products because they come under the tolerance limit.

No of machines No of pieces/ (m/c) /shift

6 31

Length of fabric (avg)

110m

Total amount of fabric inspected

6 x 31 x 110 m = 20460 m/shift

After inspection, the fabric is brought to the measuring and table cutting section. Here the fabric length as required by the buyer is measured and cut according to the instructions by the PPC. If the defect gets in the way before the required length has been completed, then an assessment committee in which all HOD’s of different departments come together and decide what to do with the defect and action is taken. If there is need of cutting of fabric due to some defect, then it is noted with the reason and the type of defect due to which fabric is cut short of the length and the report is sent to the respective department so that they can improve that. Also the supervisor  checks the shade of the fabric with the original sample. 75

CHECKING OF DIMENSIONS 1. MEASUREMENT OF WIDTH-

Width shall be measured at three different places of the fabric and recorded. While measuring width, care should be taken: •

To remove the wrinkles/ crease gently from the fabric surface.

•

To keep the measuring tape straight across the fabric horizontally from selvedge to selvedge.

•

•

To measure the width as far as possible near the centre avoiding the ends.  Not to stretch the fabric while measuring

1. MEASUREMENT OF LENGTH-

Fabric to be measured for length and actual length recorded. Length is measured by any of the following methods: •

By passing through meter counter fitted roller.

•

By manually clipping the fabrics in the fold measuring frame.

•

By counting the number of meter fold in case of folded fabrics. Care to be taken to ensure that the folds are of one meter length by measuring a few folds.

3. CHECKING OF CONSTRUCTIONAL PARTICULARSa) Ends per inch

Ends per inch shall be counted at two places along the width of the fabric and recorded. b) Picks per inch

Picks per inch shall be counted at three places along the length of the fabric and recorded. Care to  be taken while placing the pick glass to see that the edges of the template should coincide with the yarn. Ends/Picks per inch may be counted for one inch. Also the picks should not be counted at defective places like weft bars and cracks. c) Weight per square meter

Pieces are to be weighed and recorded for GSM.

Calculation of GSM •

Weigh the individual piece under Inspection and note-down.

•

Work out the sq.mtrs. of the piece by multiplying the length of the piece in mtrs. and width of the piece in mtrs.

After measuring and cutting , they place a sticker on to the fabric which contains information about that fabric, like piece number, shade, weight, length, party to which it is to be delivered. After this, 76

rolls are made for export fabric and Thaans for the domestic fabric. Thaans are made on a machine in which the fabric is folded into half widthwise and folded with proper tension. Then the fabric is weighed and then some of the details of fabric and party is transferred from a white paper to the fabric by help of ironing.

Fig.1.33- Details of the fabric from ironing on sticker over the fabric.

After this labeling is done and barcode is assigned to each roll and Than. On that barcode also, there are details of fabric and party. Then packing of than is done in which Cellophane paper is used to  pack the fabric inside the Alfathin film. The Cellophane paper is heat absorbent and ironing is done on Cellophane kept just above the Alfathin film and not directly on Alfathin film as the film sticks with the iron. Ironing on Cellophane doesn’t affect it and the film beneath Cellophane is properly  packed. The Cellophane can be used many times for packing the fabrics in the Alfathin film. The  packed fabrics are then send to the warehouse.

Fig.1.34- Operator ironing on cellophane paper kept above Alfathin film

77

Process sequence Receive material from Finishing Dept.

Back side perching

Face side perching

Measuring table(quality shade check)

Cutting

Weighing

Plaiting

Packing

Final checking

Send to warehouse

WAREHOUSE The material from Inspection Department is received in Warehouse and a record is kept. It is the warehouse from where is material is sent ahead to its market customer as the challan recipt is issues for the invoice department as well as for the transportation department , so as to have an estimate figure of cost to be obtained from the buyer. The warehousing department follows the listed below steps of procedure: •

Scanning of the packed fabric lot

•

Computer scan of the vouchers & verification of details of the vouchers (using bar code readers).

•

Dealer-wise stock maintenance against requirement.

•

Bill development and issuing of challans ( for invoice, transportation, sales.)

•

Rechecking of bill with the sales challan copy.

•

Dispatch to dealer using different modes of transportation. 78

The work process in the warehouse department goes smoothly in 2 work shifts. And 3 shifts very seldom in 3 months span. The vouchers received are checked for any mistake for: •

DESIGN

•

GRADATION

•

METRES etc. by piece ticket

There is different warehouse for storing export and domestic fabric in OCM. The capacity of  warehouse for domestic market is 10 lakh meters and for export, it is 2.5 lakh meters.There were 15 staff members in warehouse and invoice and total 60 workers in the warehouse.

Fig.1.35- Warehouse containg all fabric Thaans on racks

79

QUALITY & ASSURANCE The Quality Assurance department performs all the possible quality checks on all material involved in production and ensures best possible quality according to set norms. Quality Control laboratory acts as the main controller of quality of the product.

The raw material i.e. wool and the finished product i.e. fabric both are tested for quality assurance in Q.C Lab. The quantity of raw material i.e. wool to be purchased is checked by various tests in the Q.C Lab and the raw material is purchased only on the approval of the Q.C lab. The product during its production stage is also tested in the laboratory e.g. the color fastness is checked as required by Dye House. The samples are also tested for various characteristics during development etc. Thus the Q.C Lab checks and controls the quality of the product at various stages during its   production. The Q.C Lab is equipped with various machines and technical staff for testing and quality control which helps in achieving the company’s aim of good quality. Each department has online testing lab in which material is tested time to time for different things. The work of quality control lab starts when the raw material has been taken in. it starts testing from the fiber to the formation of the fabric and gives the instruction according to the change required in the handling of the material. At first, when the fibres come to the lab, the main tests are related to its length, its diameter ( micron for wool), different defects in the fibres like dead fibre, pin points, colored fibres. Based on these defects , their evaluation is done for their further processing. After testing of fibres, they are send for either dyeing or for spinning(at the time of processing). In case of spinning, the fibres are checked for their mass per unit length. In dyeing department, tests are performed for Ph control and for shade matching. After dyeing, fibers are being tested for their color fastness to perspiration, to washing, to light etc and they are compared with the grey scale and the points are allocated to them from 1 to 5. The fabric which are tested, in which the result values lie between 3 to 5 are considered good and other  are rejected and accordingly color fasteners are used in the dyeing process. The results of these color fastness tests are based on three things, the change in shade of fabric, change in color of  liquid, and the change in color of the adjacent fabric. After dyeing, the material goes for spinning. In this department the fibers are converted to yarn. In this processing these products are tested for the strength and for weight per unit length and twist, coefficient of variation etc. Before the yarn is made, the product at respective stages in the spinning department is tested for the weight per linear metre. This is checked to reduce the variation in the final product. Also the oil content is checked at various stages. 80

Some of the important tests which are carried out in the Q.C Lab are briefed below:

BLEND (Composition): Chemical tests are used to find out the blend of the fabric. One ingredient is dissolved in the chemicals and the residual is dried and weighed, which in turn gives the percentage of ingredients. Thus the blend or composition is found by chemical testing. •

For WOOL: Chemical used is 5% Sodium Hydroxide.

•

For VISCOSE: Chemical used is 75% Sulphuric Acid.

•

For SILK: Chemical used are Sodium Hydroxide & Hydrogen Chloride.

•

For VEGETABLE FIBRES: Chemical used are 75% Sulphuric Acid & 25% Water.

•

For POLYESTER: Chemicals used are Nitro Benzene, Phenol & Nitric Acid.

The blend tolerance is 2%.

Fabric width For civil, overall width is 150 cm which includes selvedge. For domestic, width is 150 cm which excludes selvedge.

PILLING: Pilling is the process of growth of small balls called pills on the surface of the fabric due to wear & tear or abrasion. Name of the Machine –  Atlas Random Tumble

Martindale testing machine ICI pilling testing machine The fabric is tested for resistance to pilling in the Q.C Lab and graded as I.II or III according to the results. (Grade I is best and Grade III is poor). Two methods are used for pilling in the lab. These are: •

Abrasion testing

•

ICI Pill Box testing

Abrasion Testing: This test gives the result in very short span of time as compared to the other method. In this method small pieces of fabric is fitted in the machine and tested for pilling.

ICI Pill Box Testing: In this method, the fabric is rolled upon small cylinders made of rubber and are allowed to rotate randomly in a special wooden box, this method takes about 11 hours to give good and accurate results. The box has a cork sheet covering inside so that the tested samples rub against it for 11 hours and every possible pill of the fabric gets exposed. A rate of 5 is considered to be the best for   pilling of a fabric.

Micron tester This machine is used to check the diameter or the fineness of the fibers. 81

The fineness of the fibre(wool) is measured in microns. 1µ= 10-6 m For wool, the fiber is said to be fine if it is below 18 µ or 80s. this fiber is very soft and expensive. The fibre is said to be of medium thickness if it is between 22µ to 22.5µ or 64 s. The fibre is said to be coarser if it is more than 27µ or 58 s.

Tensile strength The tensile strength or the breaking strength is tested by three different methods. •

Raveled strip method- In this method, a strip is cut(6 x 20 cm). Then yarns from the sides are

taken out to reduce it to 5 cm width. This raveling helps to get better results of the strength than directly cutting 5 cm strip. The ends of the strip are held by jaws moving away from each other. The reading in the machine when the strip gets torn is its tensile strength or breaking strength. •

Cut strip method- Difference in raveled strip and this method is that no raveling is done in

this method. A strip (5 x 20 cm) is cut. The strength of the fibres is less than that in raveled strip method. •

Grab method- The strip size is 4 x 3. In this the strength of only 1 inch is calculated. Thus

only one inch is grabbed. Rest of the yarns are supporting yarns. For all these three methods, the strength is calculated both warp wise and weft wise.

Seam slippage For this test, the strips are stitched and then weight is put. The weight at which seam opens is read. For civil, the allowed seam slippage is 6 mm. 8 kg of load is put on the fabric. For export, , the allowed seam slippage is 6.4 mm. 25 lbs of load is put on the fabric.

Laundrometer The color fastness of the fabric is noted in this test and the sample is tested for the extent it loses color in the test. The fabric is kept in the laundrometer for a period of 35 minutes.

Shrinkage The shrinkage property is tested in this test. To check the shrinkage, shrinkage tester machine is used. The fabrics of different blends are tested by different methods e.g. All Wool is tested for  shrinkage by soaking it in cold water only (a wetting agent is also used so as to improve the wet ability of the wool) for 2 hours.The detergent used is Lisapol D. While the Terry Wool fabric is kept in boiling water for continuously 12 hours and then dried flat at room temperature. Fabric is cut to 30cm x 30 cm. In this piece marks are made and distance between marks are 25 cm. After soaking the fabric, it is taken out and the distance between marks made on the fabric is measured. The difference in distance is calculated in form of percentage.

Projection Microscope

82

A projection microscope is used to identify the nature of the fibres. Slides are prepared of either  fibres or the sliver. This helps in:•

Identification of fibres.

•

Measurement of fibres.

•

Judge the qualities of the fibres.

Twist Tester A Twist Tester is used to measure the twists per decimeter or twist per inch of a yarn. It also determines the nature of the twist, whether it’s an ‘S’ twist i.e. a clockwise twist of the yarn or a ‘Z’ twist i.e. an anti-clockwise twist of the yarn.

Crease Recovery Tester: Small pieces of warp and weft are cut from the fabric. They are kept under weight for 5 minutes. Then they are hung from a point in the crease recovery tester at 90 degrees. After 5 minutes the scale is rotated at certain angle, if the crease straightens up at 140 degrees, then its good else if it straightens up at an angle less than 140 degrees then there are less chances of crease recovery in that fabric.

Crockmeter To check the color fastness to rubbing. Color fastness tester- to check the color fastness to •

Washing

•

Perspiration

•

Color bleeding

•

Stains

Other testing apparatus are•

Ph tester 

•

Oil content tester 

•

Drape tester 

•

Fiber length tester 

83

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT The OCM is especially active in initiatives taken in the framework of research and in the development of innovative products, in particular, by promoting technical textiles or new application fields for textile-based materials. R&D (Research and Development) Fabrication •

Sampling Oder Receiving from Merchandiser 

•

Selection of Yarn

•

Knitting parameters setting

•

Finishing parameters (Samples + Production)

•

Samples inspection according to four point system

•

Testing of samples

•

Checking parameters at every stage (Weaving, Dying & Finishing)

Process Flow of Research & Development

SAMPLE

DECISION OF

DYEING

FINISHING

WEAVING

TESTING & QUALITY

YARN DEMAND

YARN

DISPATCHING

IN-HOUSE TESTS:

•

PLEAT SHARPNESS & STABILITY:

Pleat means creases in the right place Pleat sharpness depends on Blend, Sett and Ironing Polyester rich blends pleat sharply in dry heat and have a high pleat stability while, Wool  pleats better in moist heat.

WRINKLE RESISTANCE:

Wrinkling means crease in the wrong place 84

Wrinkling depends on the blend & the finish Wrinkle resistance in OCM Suitings is measured in every lot & design. PILLING:

Pilling depends on fabric sett & finish. Loose sett and surface nap of fabrics cause pilling. OCM Suitings are well sett, singed & cropped. Each OCM Design is tested for pilling in R & D laboratory before marketing. •

SEAM SLIPPAGE :

Slippery yarns and loose structure are primarily responsible for seam slippage. High yarn friction and fabric firmness prevents seam slippage. BAGGING:

Repeated flexing-particularly at the elbows or knees leads to bagging. Bagging depends on firmness of single yarn. DIMENSIONAL STABILITY:

Depends on fabric sett & finish. Crabbing, Heat setting & Decatising are critically governed to achieve dimensional stability.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT BATCHING OIL:

Mahwa Oil lubricant was replaced by self-emulsified castor oil based batching oil. Net saving was approx Rs. 4 lakh per annum since 1974. Other benefits were better fibre-cohesion & absence of freezing of oil in winter  •

RING FRAME using Opto -Electronic sensor / stop motion:

Trial fabrics made from such yarns in 1981 were evaluated even before Siro-Spun technology was introduced. Other IN-HOUSE Developments: •

Mosquito repellent finish

•

Enzyme finish

•

Fragrance finish

•

Anti-pill finish

•

Moisture control finish

•

Mechanical stretch fabric

•

Fancy yarn developed in conventional ring frame

•

SiroSpun yarn

•

Lycra yarn made in conventional TFO

WATERPROOFING:

OCM excels in waterproofing of woollen materials. A technology perfected by only OCM. FLAME PROOFING:

85

OCM excels in flame proofing of woollen upholstery. Tweeds and children wear using the latest  perfected Fluouro – Zirconium based technology. SIRO SPUN YARN:

With the “SIRO SPUN” process, a special spin-twisted yarn can be produced directly on the ringspinning machine. In this process, two roving are led in parallel through the drafting system, separated by two specially developed condensers, and drafted separately. The twist is introduced as for a normal single yarn by means of ring and traveller. The roving strands, which are drafted parallel, are combined after passing the front rollers at the exit from the drafting system, with some twist being produced in the individual strands right up to the nip point. Once past the front roller of the drafting system, the two strands are combined producing a twofoldlike yarn. The yarn has uni-directional twist like a singles yarn but the fibers are bound sufficiently for the yarn to survive weaving/Knitting. The process Technology of SIRO spun yarn imparts better surface abrasion resistance and pilling resistance in comparison to Normal & compact yarn.

Fig.1.36- comparisons among normal, compact and Siro spun yarn

Benefits of SiroSpun Yarn:

SiroSpun reduces wool spinning costs by avoiding one stage. The main advantage of the SiroSpun  process is a reduction in spinning costs for pure fine wool weaving yarn. On average, SiroSpun technology lowers the processing costs of spinning by 56 percent. Weaving yarns are normally twofold – that is, made up of two yarns together. Ordinarily the strands must be first spun and then ‘two-folded’. SiroSpun reduces cost by combining spinning and two folding allowing a two-fold –  like yarn produces in one step from wool top.

86

Fig.1.37- The SiroSpun Process and SiroSpun yarn

SAFETY In OCM, various safety measures and precautions are followed to ensure a safe environment inside the industry. There are charts and boards for proper use of each machines and also about the instructions for using that machines are written in hindi and in local language so that workers can 87

easily read them and follow them. There are fire extinguishers and emergency exits in each department.

OCM SAFETY CONCERNS •

Safety of workforce.

•

Safety of machinery.

•

Safety of buildings.

•

Safety of electrical installation.

•

Safety of raw material

•

Safety of finished goods.

•

Safety of hoists and lift.

•

Safety of furnace oil, diesel, LPG and chemicals.

•

Safety of pressure plants.

SAFETY MEASURES 1. Environmental health- The department takes special measures to ensure the environmental health of the workforce as a whole. 2. Safety meetings are held- Both the management as well as the worker representatives are  present in the meeting. The meetings are held once a month. 3. Internal audit safety report- The data is collected from all the departments. It covers the following areas•

First aid- These are provided in every department.

•

Ergonomics and posture- It is also taken care off that the employees do not suffer from

any survical or any other medical problems like stress, strain, headache, etc. •

Fire safety and drill electrical safety principles of accident prevention- It occurs due

to carelessness, negligence, shortcuts in procedures, lack of supervision and overconfidence. OCM received 2nd prize in Punjab State Safety Award in 2008.

Precautions•

First-aid boxes- these are checked twice a week.

•

Eyetest - eye tests are done on a regular basis for all the employees.

•

Spray- pesticide spray is sprinkled at regular intervals.

Security•

Visitors- visitors are duly checked and given temporary passes by the personnel department for entry in the company premises.

88

•

Fire points- Various fire points have been created in the company for fire safety during an emergency.

Problems raised by the workers•

Drain passing near the workers colony must be covered.

•

Water cooler should be provided at specific places.

•

Additional first aid boxes should be provided.

•

Provision of normal as well as liquid soaps should be made in all the washrooms.

•

Proper cleaning should be done by the sundry staff twice a day.

•

AC plants should be switched off when not in use.

•

Flooring should be repaired where necessary.

89

SALES & MARKETING The textile industry in India is Season based. The summer season begins in November and ends in May and, winter starts in June and ends in October. The sales department is responsible for making sales in domestic market. The distribution network of OCM has got about 16 agents spread all over  the country which in turn is well connected further to distributors,, wholesalers and retailers. The sales team of OCM, by remaining in touch with the agents books orders from the valuable customer and sends the order to staff at the office. The orders after being booked are dispatched within 45 days. The domestic market is more profitable than the export market. The costing of any material depends on the micron of the yarn used for its construction. Sometimes the price range is also decided depending upon the price range of the competitors. There is no excise duty charged on the products meant for the Defence Personals. OCM supplies about 10 lakhs of product to the Defence Personals.

Privileges in Export: The export house enjoys some special facilities provided by the govt. Some of these privileges are: •

Duty free import of raw material

•

 No Excise

•

 No Sales Tax

•

Special Import Licenses.

The latest trends about the market and the various moves of the competitors are carefully studied and new designs and new markets are tapped very carefully by the sales team. The sales department with its well qualified and professional team of members is well equipped. OCM also have many exclusive retail shops all over the country. OCM does cater to the need of brands like: •

Madura Garments

•

Shopper’s Stop

•

Mayfair 

•

Crocodile

•

Benetton India Pvt. Ltd.

•

Indus League Clothing

•

Silver Crest Clothing Pvt. Ltd.

•

Trent Ltd.

•

Embassy Apparels

OCM does supply to various Government Departments & Forces also, the names of a few are listed

 below: •

HRTC 90

•

Delhi Metro Corporation

•

Department of Police, Delhi

•

Department of Police, Punjab

•

Ordinance Clothing Factories

•

Indian Navy

•

Indian Army

•

Indian Airforce

•

Indian Oil Corporation

•

Lok Sabha Secretariat

•

BHEL

•

Department of Police, Uttar Pradesh and Bihar 

•

Rashtrapati Bhawan

•

 National Fertilizers Ltd.

OCM does provide its supplies to various airlines and hotels too, namely : •

Kingfisher Airlines

•

Spicejet Airlines

•

Jet Airways

•

Air Deccan

•

Airport Authority of India

•

Hotel Radisson

•

Centaur Hotels Ltd

OCM has proved its metal in overseas as well, as courtesy to it has numerous Export Customers as

well, namely: •

Levis

•

ODLR 

•

Superior 

•

Kizan

•

J C Penny

•

Original Penguin

•

Haggar Clothing Company

S.W.O.T ANALYSIS STRENGTH S •

Biggest strength of OCM woolen mills is its latest technology and imported machinery.

•

High spinning capacity plant in worsted spinning system. 91

•

In north India the brand is perceived to be a premium and reliable brand because of its  presence in market for over eight decades.

•

There is no other big industry of woolen fabric in north India.

•

The industry has a good reputation in international market as well.

WEAKNESSES •

The main weakness of OCM is a conventional distribution channel. The company relies mainly on agents for sales promotion who might neglect their work to earn better margins.

•

Though the company is selling its product all over India, but it is situated in Amritsar, which is far from the west and south India.

•

The company spends less money on advertisement and brand promotion as compared to other brands.

•

The brand positioning is wrong, it is still perceived to be an older brand.

OPPORTUNITIES •

The company can set up its ready-made unit to increase the utilization of its finished  product.

•

There is increase in demand of the suiting product in the market due to increase in business class people.

•

Due to increased demand of product, there is also demand for quality of product for which OCM is known in the market.

•

The other opportunity for OCM is the rural customer because they are not as much targeted  by the big players.

THREATS •

The biggest threat is of the growing popularity of the cotton fabric and thus cotton  producing units in India and abroad.

•

Raymond suiting has been major competitor of OCM.

•

The converters i.e. units established exclusively to convert fabric into ready-made garments  pose the biggest threat to OCM, since they usually buy cheaper material of not so known  brands.

92

SUGGESTIONS •

Recruitment of more female staffs

•

Operators should effectively use personal safety equipments like masks, ear plugs, etc., wherever required.

•

Measures must be taken to reduce the absenteeism to minimum.

•

The transportation of material from one department to other should be taken care of in a  better manner & done swiftly.

93

CONCLUSION From our two weeks of industrial training here in OCM, Amritsar, we have learnt many things which hopefully mightn’t be imparted anywhere in books or colleges, i.e., with excellence and  perseverance combined with team efforts and morals only, a company can imagine to succeed. And it gives us immense pleasure to share that OCM is indeed a successful textile company, setting examples for others to follow and being a guiding light for internees as well as new fishes in the market to survive(by imbibing in blood their success key). After this training we have came to know that how fabric is made and what kind of defects are there in the fabrics and how they come into existence and what are the quality standards for fabrics. The strong culture of the OCM does definitely contribute to great extent to the production capacity of the company. The capacity planning process of the industry is remarkable and does compel one to pay heed to, if at all one desires to be dream big and be successful. OCM, India undoubtedly made the two week industrial training program worth and does enlightened us to extremes.

94