J. J. P i z z u
Fa
ic Sci n i n t h
’s
c
e d i t i o n
Key to Fabric Swatches A
C. C
I g i
J
s
FIberS
Swatch Number __
Fabric Description
Purpose o Swatch
Fiber Content __
(See abric #28)
Cotton
1
Denim (blue)
Cotton with stretch
2
Pattern woolen (black & beige)
3
Tropical worsted (black)
Wool (worsted)
Wool
4
Tissue aille (print)
Cultivated silk
Silk
5
Shantung (brown )
Duoppioni silk
Silk
6
Decorative noil (sea oam) Tussah
Silk
7 __
Linen (o
(See abric #78)
Polyester ( lament)
Flax __
8 __
Micro ber abric (rust) (See abric #29)
Polyester (micro lament) Polyester __ Polyester (textured)
9
Pattern check
Nylon
Nylon
10
Shirting twill (slate)
Lyocell
Lyocell
11
Lining (dk. taupe)
Rayon
Rayon
12
Satin (dusty mauve)
Acetate
Acetate
13
Lamé (gold)
Metallic
Metallic and nylon (mixture)
14
Brushed knit (green)
Acrylic
Acrylic
15
Tissue ta
Nylon
Nylon
16
Shirting (stripe)
XLA™ ole n
Warp: cotton
-white)
eta (navy)
Wool (woolen)
Flax
Warp: cotton Filling: cotton/spandex Wool
YA r n S
Swatch Number __ __ __ __ __
Fabric Description
Purpose o Swatch
(See abric #107)
Mono lament
(See abric #12)
Multi- lament yarn
(See abric #8)
Microdenier lament yarn
(See abric #83)
Spun yarn (single)
(See abric #2)
Spun yarn (plied)
Fiber Content __ __ __ __ __
17
Sportswear chambray (dk. blue) Carded yarn
Cotton
18
Broadcloth (pink)
Combed yarn
(See abric #2)
Woolen yarn
Warp: cotton Filling: cotton and spandex __
(See abric #3)
Worsted yarn
(See abric #31)
Novelty yarn (slub)
__ __ __
__ __
19
Bouclé abric (navy & white) Novelty yarn (bouclé)
20 __
Butcher linen look (rust) Novelty yarn (thick and thin) Rayon __ (See abric #39) Novelty yarn (chenille) __ (See abric #47) Novelty yarn (eyelash) __ (see abric # 90) Novelty yarns
__ __ 21 __
Puckered check
Covered stretch yarn
(See abric #16)
Corespun yarn
Warp: polyester Filling: polyester and rayon
Warp: cotton Filling: cotton and spandex __
Wo v e n FA b r I C S
Swatch Number __
Fabric Description
Purpose o Swatch
Fiber Content __
(See abric #22)
Plain weave (sheer), ( lament)
25 __
Lawn (white)
Plain weave ( ne)
(See abric #7)
Plain weave (coarse)
26
Moiré aille (pale peach) Plain weave (ribbed)
Warp: acetate Filling: rayon
27
Cord (white)
Cord e
Cotton/polyester (blend)
28 __
Chino (mushroom)
Twill weave (le t hand)
(See abric #1)
Twill weave (right hand)
29 __
Pointed twill
Broken twill weave
(See abric #12)
Satin weave ( lament)
30
Sateen shirting (peach)
Satin weave (spun)
Cotton
31
Antique satin (taupe)
Satin weave (novelty)
Warp: acetate Filling: rayon
32
Bird’s eye piqué (toast)
Piqué weave
Warp: cotton Filling: cotton and spandex
33
Striped lining (multicolored) Multiple e
34
Terrycloth (white)
Warp pile weave (uncut)
Cotton
35
Corduroy (navy)
Filling pile weave (cut)
Cotton
36
Velveteen (black w/ print) Filling pile weave (cut)
Cotton
37
Velvet (navy)
Pile: acetate
ect
Cotton __
Cotton __ Polyester __
ect in same abric Warp: acetate Filling: rayon
Warp pile weave (cut)
K n I t t e d FA b r I C S
Swatch Number
Fabric Description
Purpose o Swatch
Fiber Content
44
Jersey knit (white)
Jersey (coarse)
Acrylic
45
T-shirt knit (dk. green)
Jersey knit ( ne)
Cotton/polyester (blend)
46
Fancy jersey (white)
Tuck stitches and needle out Acrylic construction
47
Shaggy knit (maroon)
Laid-in yarn
Nylon and polyester (mixture)
48
Interlock knit (blue)
Interlock
Polyester
49
Rib knit (pink)
Rib knit (2X2)
Cotton
50
Interlock knit (stripe)
Ribbed
Cotton and polyester (mixture)
51
Printed lamé
Metallic print
Polyester
52
Knit terry (orange)
Loop-knit (uncut)
Pile: cotton Ground: polyester/cotton (blend)
53
Knit velour (pink)
Loop-knit (cut)
Pile: cotton Ground: polyester
54
Argyle jacquard
Double knit
White: cotton/polyester (blend) Grey: acrylic
55
High pile knit ( ake ur) (spotted)
High pile knit
Modacrylic
56
Thermal knit (beige)
Patterning with tuck stitches Cotton/polyester (blend)
57
Sheer tricot (black)
Tricot (sheer)
Nylon
58
Tricot jersey
Tricot
Polyester/rayon (blend)
o t h e r t Y Pe S o F t e x t I l e S
Swatch Number
Fabric Description
Purpose o Swatch
Fiber Content
Bonded material
Face: bamboo
63
Woven bamboo
64
Nonwoven interlining (black)
65
Fusible nonwoven interlining Fusible web nonwoven (black)
Polyester and rayon (polyester dots)
66
Felt
Wool and rayon
67
Needle punched elt (plaid) Needle punched nonwovenPolyester
68
Raschel lace (silver)
Raschel lace
Polyester and nylon (mixture)
69
Eyelet abric (white)
Embroidered abric
Polyester/cotton (blend) with nylon embroidery
Web nonwoven
Felt
d Ye d FA b r I C S
Polyester and rayon
P r I n t e d FA b r I C S
Swatch Number
Purpose o Swatch
Fabric Description
Fiber Content
74
Printed check (blue/white)Printed woven design
Cotton/polyester (blend)
75
Printed plaid
Fall-on e
(See abric # 36)
Overprint
Warp: polyester, Filling: polyester/cotton (blend) __
76
Ponte di roma (yellow)
Overprint, pigment
Polyester
77
French piqué (stripe)
All overprint
Polyester
78
Calico type (print)
Blotch print
Polyester
79
Brushed knit (white)*
__
ect
80
Fabric prepared or printing Polyester __ Heat trans er print paper*Heat trans er print paper
81
Printed knit*
Heat trans er print
Polyester
82 __
Burn-out print (white)
Burn-out design
(See abric #51)
Printed lamé
Nylon and rayon (mixture) __
(See abric #108)
Printed fock
(See abric #112)
Metallic print e
__ __
*Courtesy o Textile Trans-print Corporation
textIle FInISheS
__ ect
__
S Pe C I A l FA b r I C S
Swatch Number
Fabric Description
Purpose o Swatch
Fiber Content
90
Novelty suiting
Multiple yarn types
Silk
91
Unique knit
Open construction
Cotton
92
Glimmer organza (red)
Sparkle e
Nylon
93
Rip stop abric (olive)
Rip stop
Nylon
94
Allover fock (navy)
Flocking
Flock: nylon Back: cotton
95
Poplinette (red)
Supplex® nylon
Supplex® nylon
96
Puckered jersey (celery)
Crinkle e
Polyester/spandex
97
Quilted material (black)
Quilted material
98
Vinyl rainwear (red)
Waterproo vinyl coating Face: vinyl Back: rayon
99
Leather look (tan)
Vinyl
100
Polar Fleece® type (black) Double brushed abric
101
Luggage abric (olive)
High denier yarn or high Nylon per ormance
102
3-D design
Optical e
103
Marine abric (burgundy) Coated abric
ect
ect
Shell: nylon Lining: nylon Filler: polyester ber ll Scrim: nylon
Face: vinyl Back: polyester/rayon (blend)
ect
Polyester
Mohair/wool (blend) Nylon
J. J. P i z z u t o ’ s
Fa
ic Sci nc n i n t h
e d i t i o n
Swatch Kit A
n C. Coh n
Ing id Johnson
Cont nts
How to Us th F a b r i c S c i e n c e S w a t c h K i t Assignment 10 / Woven Fabrics: Assignments To Create Basic Weaves Mounting Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets Assignment 11 / Woven Fabrics: Using the Pick Glass and Pick Needle To Study a Fabric with an Uncut Pile Weave What’s in a Fa ic Nam Assignment 12 / Woven Fabrics: Assignm nts
Assignment 1 / Fibers:
To Determine “V” and “W” Shape Cut Pile Interlacings
Assignment 21 / Textiles or Interiors: To Examine Fabrics or Down- lled Cushions, Quilts, or Pillows Assignment 22 / Textiles or Interiors: To Examine Fabrics Suitable or Curtains and Draperies Assignment 23 / Textiles or Interiors: To Examine Fabrics Suitable or Interiors Assignment 24 / Analysis o Fabrics: To Produce Fabric Patterns
Assignment 27 / Analysis o Fabrics: To Analyze a Fabric Assignment 28 / Fabric Per ormance Testing: To Determine Tests to Per orm on Fabrics or a Speci c End Product Assignment 29 / Fabric Per ormance Testing: To Determine the Durability o the Fabrics Assignment 30 / Fabric Per ormance Testing: To Determine Fabric Wrinkle Resistance
Assignment 25 / Analysis o Fabrics: To Compare Covering Power
Assignment 31 / Fabric Per ormance Testing: To Determine Color astness Properties o Fabrics
Assignment 26 / Analysis o Fabrics: To Analyze the Color E ect o a Woven Fabric Design
Assignment 32 / Textile Laws: To Develop Appropriate Labels to Satis y Federal Laws
How to Us
T
th
Fa
ic Sci nc
Swatch Kit
length and width directions. (The long swatch direche Fabric Science Swatch Kit has been assembled to supplement the study o textiles. The swatches tion is the abric length.) and assignments will enhance your understandingThe o swatches have been organized in approxithe principles described in the textbook. This Swatch mately the order in which they will be studied: bers, Kit is designed to accompany the Fabric Science, Ninth yarns, weaves, knits, dyeing, printing, nishing, etc.
Mounting the Swatches on Fabric Using the Pick Glass an Sample Sheets Pick Nee le
Mat ia s: Set o swatches; Fabric Sample Sheets; douThe pick glass and pick needle have become universal ble-stick tape or masking tape (3/4-inch wide); scissors in their applications in the eld o textiles and clothThe Fabric Science swatches have been placed ing. in Designers, technicians, students, and teachers numerical order in the proper positions or mounting. have ound them to be important tools or a better Mount them on the Fabric Sample Sheets. and clearer examination o abrics. Yarn types, abric The abric number, name and color listed in weaves, the knit stitches, and cloth de ects can be more Key are in the same sequence as the swatches easily in the identi ed through the proper use o these items. packets. To make mounting your swatches simple Theand pick glass (enclosed in this Swatch Kit) and pick oolproo , ollow these instructions: needle are particularly use ul to determine the yarns per inch in woven abrics or the stitches per inch in 1. Do not remove the rubberbands rom the packets knit abrics. (Fabric construction is a measure o abuntil you actually begin mounting the swatches. ric quality.) A pick needle can be obtained rom: 2. The swatches are packaged in two separate packFashion Institut of T chno ogy ets. Packet One contains swatches 1–54; Packet College Bookstore Two, 55–114, and every 10 swatches are separat227 West 27th Street ed with tissue. New York, NY 10001 Pack t On : Fibers (1–16) Yarns (17–24) Woven Fabrics (25–43) Knitted Fabrics (44–54)
Pack t Two: Knitted Fabrics (55–62) Other Types o Fabrics (63–69) Dyed Fabrics (70–73) Printed Fabrics (74–82)
Telephone: 212.217.5690 Fax: 212.217.5691 e-mail:
[email protected]
Pick G ass The pick glass (examining glass) or linen tester is composed o a rame, magni ying lenses and a measured opening in the base opposite the lenses. When the pick glass is opened properly, the measuring lines
FA b r I C S C I e N C e S WAT C H K I T: F I b e r S / A s s i g n m n t 5
To Calculate Percentage of Fiber Content Set o swatches, pick glass, pick needle, scissors, acetone*, small glass container balance, worksheet
M
aterials :
A. Select rom the swatch set a abric with a ber content o acetate and another ber (e.g., acetate and rayon). b. Cut a one-inch strip orm the bottom o the swatch. C. Using gram balance, weigh the strip as accurately as possible (to the nearest milligram/mg accuracy). D. Place the strip in the glass container. Using the pick needle reduce the abric into ber orm. e. Pour acetone to cover the material completely. F.
Allow the specimen to stand at room temperature until the acetate yarns/bers have been dissolved. Periodically move the bers in the liquid with the pick needle.
G. Careully pour o the acetone and air-dry the specimen. H. Weigh the dry specimen and calculate the percent ber content. Round o each percent as it would appear on a label (e.g., 65% and not 64.9%). I. Compute the percent ber content using the ollowing ormulas and record the results:
(original weight – weight o remaining bers) x 100 % acetate = original weight
FA b r I C S C I e N C e S WAT C H K I T: YA r N S / A s s i g n m n t 6
To Evaluate Yarns M
aterials :
set o swatches, pick needle, pick glass, worksheet
Examine both the warp (W) and the lling (F) yarns o the abrics assigned by the instructor. Determine the ollowing: 1. Fiber type (staple, lament) 2. Yarn type (single, ply, cord, novelty) 3. Direction o twist (S or Z) 4. Level o twist—high (H), medium, (M) or low (L) 5. Appropriate yarn numbering system
Record the observations on the worksheet. Repeat the procedure or other abrics. A ter the observations have been checked, record the in ormation on the Fabric Sample Sheet or the studied.
Swatch Number
Fabric Name
Yarn (W or F)
Fiber Type
Yarn Type
Twist Direction (S or Z)
Twist Level (H-M-L)
Yarn Numbering System
FA b r I C S C I e N C e S WAT C H K I T: W O v e N FA b r I C S / A s s i g n m n t 9
To Analyze a Woven Fabric Structure M
aterials
: Set o
swatches, pick glass, pick needle, worksheet
Examine the abric assigned by the instructor and determine the ollowing:
1. Face and back sides or i the abric is reversible. Describe the ace side or write “reversible” i the abr appears to look the same on both sides.
2. Which rules apply or determining the warp direction? Write two rules o identiying the warp direction tha apply to the swatch examined. 3. Yarns per inch, or both warp and lling (cloth count).
A ter the results have been checked, record the in ormation on the Fabric Sample Sheet or each abr Note: This assignment can be done in stages, a ter each topic is discussed in class.
Swatch Number
Face Side Description
Warp Yarn Rules
Yarns Per Inch
FA b r I C S C I e N C e S WAT C H K I T: W O v e N FA b r I C S / A s s i g n m n t 1 0
To Create Basic Weaves M
aterials
: Colored paper (2 colors) or hand knitting yarns (2 colors) scissors, ruler, tape
Pa t I A. Select a plain weave abric orm the swatch set or the reerence. Use diagrams in the textbook as an additional guide. Using strips o paper or hand knitting yarns, create a plain weave.
b. Cut 12 strips o paper or lengths o hand knitting yarn o one color and 12 strips o lengths o another color (a total o 24). The strips or lengths should be about 4 inches (10.16 cm) long and about 1/8 inch (.3 wide. C. Tape the ends o paper strips or yarns o one color to the let side o the plain-weave box on the worksheet so that they are side-by-side. D. Weave the strips or yarns to create a plain weave. Pa t II Same procedure, but create a twill weave. Pa t III Same procedure, but create a satin weave. Pa t Iv Same procedure, but create another weave (e.g., basket or rib).
Tape 12 Ends
Tape 12 Ends
Tape 12 Ends
Tape 12 Ends
P ain W a
Twi
W a
FA b r I C S C I e N C e S WAT C H K I T: W O v e N FA b r I C S / A s s i g n m n t 1 3
To Repro uce a Fabric Weave on design Pa M
aterials :
Set o swatches, pick glass, pick needle, point paper (graph paper)
Using the point paper show the weaves o those abrics assigned by the instructor. Indicate two repeat and two repeats horizontally.
A ter the weaves have been checked, show one repeat o the weave on the Fabric Sample Sheet or th examined.
FA b r I C S C I e N C e S WAT C H K I T: P r I N Te D FA b r I C S / A s s i g n m n t 1 8
To Evaluate Printe M
aterials
: Set o
design
swatches, pick glass, pick needle, worksheet
For each printed abric in the swatch set determine the ollowing: 1. Name o the print: e.g., direct or blotch 2. Print type: wet print (dye) or dry print (pigment) 3. Number o rollers or screens required: one or each color applied 4. Possible printing machine used: roller, fat bed, rotary
Record the observations on the worksheet. A ter the observations have been checked, record the in or on the Fabric Sample Sheet or the abrics studies.
Swatch Number
Fabric Name
Print Type (Wet or Dry)
Print Name
No. o Rollers/ Screens
Possible Printing Machine
FA b r I C S C I e N C e S WAT C H K I T: Te x T I l e S F O r I N Te r I O r S / A s s i g n m n t 2 0
To Examine Finishes on Textiles for Interi M
aterials :
Set o swatches, worksheet
Each abric in the swatch set designated as a drapery and/or upholstery abric has been treated with e aesthetic or unctional nish.
Examine the swatches and list the nish as aesthetic or unctional, and suitable end use (drapery or up Identi y the properties contributed by the nish.
A ter the results have been checked, record the in ormation on the Fabric Sample Sheet or each abr
Swatch Number
Fabric Name
Finish Fabric Use (aesthetic/ (drapery/upholstery) unctional)
Properties Contributed by the Finish
FA b r I C S C I e N C e S WAT C H K I T: Te x T I l e S F O r I N Te r I O r S / A s s i g n m n t 2 3
To Examine Fabrics Suitable For Interiors M
aterials :
Set o swatches, worksheet
For each o the interiors’ abrics in the swatch set, identi y which are in the ollowing categories:
jacquard weave:
dobby weave:
solution dyed:
FA b r I C S C I e N C e S WAT C H K I T: A N A l Y S I S O F FA b r I C S / A s s i g n m n t 2 7
To Analyze a Fabric M
aterials :
Set o swatches, pick glass, pick needle, worksheet
Select a abric and complete the ollowing in ormation: A. Fabric name and number b. Fiber content C. Type o yarn (spun, lament, or novelty) D. Twist direction in yarn (S or Z) e. Number o laments in the yarns, i a lament yarn (use pick glass) F. Yarns per inch or stitches per inch in length and width direction (average o 5 measurements each) G. Type o weave, or i a knit abric, type o stitches in cloth H. Fabric weight (ounces per square yard) I. Method o dyeing (e.g., yarn dye) or type o print (e.g., blotch print) J. Type o nishes K. Any other inormation that can be learned about the abric (e.g., degree o cover) l. Write a paragraph or several sentences about a possible end use or this abric and why you eel that this abric would be satis actory or this end use (based upon your analysis).
FAbrIC SCIeNCe SWATCH KIT / Fa
ic Samp
Sh
Swatch Number
Swatch Number
Swatch Number
Fabric Name
Fabric Name
Fabric Name
Fiber Content
Fiber Content
Fiber Content
Yarn Type
Yarn Type
Yarn Type
Weave/Knit Type
Weave/Knit Type
Weave/Knit Type
Yarns/Stitches per Inch
Yarns/Stitches per Inch
Yarns/Stitches per Inch
Method o Coloration
Method o Coloration
Method o Coloration
Finish
Finish
Finish
End Use
End Use
End Use
t
FAbrIC SCIeNCe SWATCH KIT / Fa
Swatch
ic Samp
Sh
Swatch
t
Swatch
Swatch Number
Swatch Number
Swatch Number
Fabric Name
Fabric Name
Fabric Name
